





■r.?/ 






3ri5 in::^J.% .- 







T-'.-Vl-S'.'- -^h 




















GopyrightN". 



COPYRJGHT DEPOSm 



1 



ENCYCLOPEDIA 



PRACTICAL 



RECEIPTS km PROCESSES. 



CONTAINING 



OVER 6400 RECEIPTS, 



EMBRACING 



THOROUGH Ii\FORMATIOi\, m PLAm LA^^GUAGE, APPLICABLE TO ALMOST EVERY 
POSSIBLE INDUSTRIAL AND DOMESTIC REQUIREMENT. 



"4^.4.; - U. r-r 



BY 

WILLIAM B. DICK 



NEW YORK: 
DICK & FITZGERALD, PUBLISHERS 

1903. 



jLIBR^^Tof CONGRESS 

I Two CoDies Received 

vlUN 18 1904 

Cooyrfffht Entry 

^^*^. H—f q 00 

CLASS C^ Jfjeo. No. 



COPY B 



yt^ 



N OTE, 



To find any special receipt contained in this work, always refer to the IndBX at the 
end of the book, noting carefully the directions given on page 565. The index num- 
bers refer to the number affixed to each receipt 



The Tabi^e of Contents on pages 7 and 8 serves only as a guide to receipts classi- 
fied as far as practicable under specific headings, designated by page numbers. 



Copyright 1872 by 
DICK & FiTZGKRAIvD. 



• •'(JopyMght 190G by 
WII<I^,I,AM B, PICK. 



ffli 



PREFACE 



The original design of the compiler of this work was to prepare a collection of 
popular and domestic receipts, to contain only those whose practical utiUty had 
been estabhshed, either by actual trial or^by the guaranty of undoubted authori- 
ties, thus excluding the mass of untried, and, consequently, unreliable information 
to be found in Receipt Books, compiled with a view to quantity rather than 
quality. As the work progressed, it was found, in many cases, no easy matter to 
draw a line between the simple or practical and the artistic or scientific. To meet 
this difficulty, it was determined to enlarge its scope, increasing the usefulness of 
the former by the additional light of scientific research, and rendering the latter 
easy of application by reducing the formulae and technicalities of scientific writers 
to plain language, so as to be understood by the uninitiated. To carry out this 
idea intelligibly, the plan has been adopted of classifying the various subjects- 
treated of in the Encyclopedia, so that each should be presented in a compact 
form of completeness unattainable by any other method; omitting only, in order 
to save repetition, such information as could be found in connection with some- 
other subject in another part of the work, but easily reached by the introduction.' 
of reference numbers, or by the aid of the Index. 

The result of this change of scheme in the preparation of the Encyclopedia is 
twofold: first, an amount of information on popular and household matters 
rarely, it is believed, to be found in one volume ; secondly, a condensed digest of 
all the practical information, bearing on the various branches of the industrial' 
arts, that is contained in the best scientific works of modern times, many of which 
are costly and technical in style, and some of them rarely to be found in this 
country. 

This has necessarily involved an almost incredible amount of patient and per- 
sistent labor, rendered unavoidable in order to separate and extract the practical 
matter from theoretical propositions and speculative deductions, of great value to 
the expert, but entirely beyond the scope of a popular work ; this will be fully 
corroborated by the annexed hst of authorities, which have been quoted or con- 
sulted in the preparation of the Encyclopedia. In accomplishing this the compiler 
has been assisted by a gentleman whose knowledge of languages, and other at- 
tainments, have aided him materially in his undertaking. 

The various processes and formulae connected with the Practical Arts form, 
therefore, a distinguishing feature of the work, of the highest utility both in the 
laboratory and the workshop. They are further explained, where it has been 
deemed necessary, with neatly executed illustrations and diagrams, thus giving ther 



IV PREFACE. 

inexperienced a clear insight into many of those scientific operations usually sup- 
posed to he attainable only by persons trained and educated for the purpose. 

The Receipts containing information more especially applicable to domestic 
matters and the requirements of every-day life, deserve more than a passing 
notice, as no pains have been spared to make them comprehensive, thorough, 
and clearly understood; showing not only what must be done, but how to do 
it, in order to attain any desired result; giving the materials used, their proper 
proportions, and how to prepare, mix and apply them; introducing also, wher- 
ever advisable or necessary, reliable tests for the purity, strength, etc., of the 
substances brought into requisition. This principle of testing is a noticeable 
feature throughout the Encyclopedia. 

In the Medical department, each recipe or formula is adopted for its efficacy 
only, without reference to any particular School of Medicine. Some of them 
are published for the first time in this work, being obtained from the private 
memoranda of a distinguished physician, and other similar sources. 

With the exception of general, but thorough, directions for Curing, Preserving, 
Pickling and Canning, Culinary receipts have been avoided, as they may be found 
in any reliable Cookery Book ; the design of this work being to afford only such 
information as is not otherwise easily attainable. 

The Tables of Weights and Measures, and their comparative values, are by a 
competent mathematician, and founded on official or other well-established data. 
They include also a careful selection of general statistical information from authentic 
sources. 

The last 24 pages consist of Miscellaneous Receipts, which would not readily 
admit of classification ; including, also, a few additional receipts obtained too late 
to take their place in the part of the book to which they properly belong. These 
will always be found by consulting the Index, a course which will insure the find- 
ing of all the information connected with the subject desired. 

Condensation has been resorted to throughout the work, as far as possible, and 
repetition greatly avoided by the use of reference numbers, which are introduced 
wherever it has been found necessary to refer the reader for further information 
contained in some paragraph in another part of the book. 

A carefully prepared Index is appended, in as condensed a form as perspicuity 
will allow. A glance at the directions given at the commencement of the Index 
will materially aid in finding the article or paragraph sought for. 

In submitting to the public this contribution to the popular resources of general 
information and practical knowledge, the compiler begs to offer his apologies for 
any errors or omissions that may occur in it; reserving for future editions such 
corrections and additions as circumstances may suggest, or the march of improve- 
ment demand. By no means assuming the impossible attribute of perfection for 
this work, he believes that its contents will at least warrant his claiming for the 
Encyclopedia a marked superiority over other existing works of a similar nature. - 



AUTHORITIES QUOTED AND CONSULTED. 



American Chemist. 

Americau Dispensatory, 6th Edition. 

American Journal of Science and Arts. 

Annales de Chimie et de Physique. 

Beach's American Practice and Family Physician. 

Beasley's Druggists' General Receipt Book, 6th Edition. 

Booth's Encyclopedia of Chemistry. 

Boston Medical and Surgical Journal. 

British Pharmacopoeia for 1860. 

Bulletin du Musee de I'lndustrie Belgique. 

Bulletin Mensuel de la Societe Chimique de Paris. 

Bulletin of General Therapeutics . 

Chambers' Edinburgh Encyclopedia. 

Chemical Times. 

Christison's Dispensatory. 

Comtes Rendus des Seances de 1' Academic des Sciences. 

Cooley's Cyclopoedia of Practical Receipts, 5th Edition. 

Cooley's Practical Receipts for Perfumes and Cosmetics. 

Cosmos. 

Dingler's Polytechnisches Journal. 

Druggists' Circular and Chemical Gazette. 

Dublin Pharmacopoeia for 1850. 

Dussauce's Practical Guide for the Perfumer. 

Eclectic Medical and College Journal. 

Edinburgh Pharmacopoeia for 1841. 

Ellis's Medical Formulary, 12th Edition. 

Fresenius' Zeitschrift fiir Analytische Chemie. 

Guettier's Metallic Alloys. 

Hager's Manuale Phatmaceuticum. 

Hall's Journal of Health. 

Hamburgh Pharmacopseia. 

Jahresbuch der Physik. 

Journal de Pharmacie et de Chimie. 

Kurten on the Manufacture of Soaps. 

London Pharmaceutical Journal and Transactions. 

London Pharmacopoeia for 1851. 

L'TJnion Medicale. 

Mackenzie's 10,000 Receipts. 

Makin's Manual of Metallurgy. 

Mechanics' Magazine. 

Mohr and Redwood. 



n AUTHOniTIES QUOTED AND COXSILTAD. 

Moniteur Scientifique. 

Morfit's Chemical Manipulations. 

Muspratt's Chemistry as applied to the Arts and Manufactare& 

Napier's Manual of Electro- Metallurgy, 4th Edition. 

Neues Jahrbuch fiir Pharmacie 

Ott on Soaps and Candles. 

Paris Codex. 

Parrish's Practical Pharmacy, 3d Edition. 

Pereira's Materia Medica. 

Piesse's Art of Perfumery. 

Proceedings of the American Pharmaceutical Association. 

Prussian Pharmacopoeia. 

Eack's French Wine and Liquor Manufacturer, 4Lh Edition 

Redwood's Supplement to the Pharmacopoeia (British). 

Revue des Cours Scientifiques. 

Revue Hebdomadaire de Chimie. 

Revue Scientifique. 

Scientific American. 

Wright's 3,000 Receipts. 

United States Dispensatory, 13th Edition. 

United States Pharmacopoeia for 1863. 

Ure's Dictionary of Arts, Manufactures and Mines. 

Youman's Hand Book of Household Science. 

Vfirious Papers delivered before Scientific Socle 



CONTENTS. 



Page. 

Chemical Manipulations 9 and 355 

Preparations 17 

Specific Gravity 22 

Alcoholmetey 23 

Acetimetry 28 

acidimetry 29 

Alkalimetry 30 

The Thermometer 30 

The Art of Dyeing 31 

Family Dyeing Receipts 47 

To Remove Stains, Spots, &g 48 

The Art op Soap-Making 66 

Toilet Soaps 69 

Soap by the Cold Process 72 

Soft Soaps 73 

Home-made Tallow Candles .-... 77 

Tanning -... 78 

Imitation Liquors 80 

Champagne 83 

Home-Made Wines 84 

Cordials or Liqueurs ...— 89 

Bitters -.— .,- 93 

Cider 94 

Brewing ^— — 97 

Perfumery 107 

Cologne Water and Perfumed Spirits 111 
To Prepare Flavoring Extracts — 114 

Artificial Fruit Essences 115 

Extraits or Perfumed Extracts 115 

Aromatic or Perfumed "Waters, <fec..ll6 

Aromatic Yinegar 118 

Smelling Salts 119 

Perfumed Powders and Rouges 119 

Cosmetics 120 

Washes for Failing Hair 125 

Hair Dyes 126 

Depilatories 128 

Scented or Perfumed Oils 129 

Pomatums or Pomades 131 



Page. 

Tooth Powders and Dentifrices 135 

Tooth Pastes and Electuaries 136 

Tooth and Mouth Washes 137 

Fumigating Pastils, and Incense 138 

Syrups 140 

Syrups for Soda Water 142 

Alcohol 144 

Essential or Yolatile Oils 148 

Fixed Oils and Fats 152 

Petroleum and Kerosene 157 

Lubricators for Machinery 158 

Waterproofing 159 

Honey 161 

Bees'-wax 162 

Cheese 164 

Preservatives and Preserving 165 

Solutions for Anatomical Prepara- 
tions 170 

To Preserve Wood 171 

Freezing Mixtures 172 

Disinfectants 173 

Bleaching 175 

Yinegar 177 

Sauces, Catsups and Pickles 181 

Yeast 184 

Receipts for the Flower and Kitch- 
en Garden 185 

The Extermination op Yermin 191 

Prepared Paper 193 

Ivory, Alabaster, &g 198 

Pyrotechny 202 

Explosives 206 

Cements and Uniting Bodies 208 

Lutes 217 

Flour Paste 218 

Glue 219 

Sealing Wax 221 

Boiler Incrustations 222 

Glass 223 



VIIl 



CONTENTS. 



Page. 

Enamels 225 

Glazes 227 

Artificial Gems 228 

Foils 230 

Inks and Writing Fluids 231 



Pav"'* 

Bronzing '.i,/z 

Acids 35H 

Alkalies 373 

Alkaloids 375 

Gases 377 

Aniline Colors 237 j Mtscellaneous Chemicals 381 



Liquid Colors for Yarious Purposes. 244 

Pigments 248 

Drying Oils and Dryers 252 

Souse Painting 253 

Kalsomine and Whitewash 257 

Paper Hanging 258 

Soluble Glass 259 

To Dye Wood 260 

To Stain Wood 262 

Tarnish 263 

Oil Varnishes 964 

Spirit Varnishes 266 

Varnishing 272 

Polishing 273 

French Polishing 274 

To Enamel Wood-work 275 

Japanning 277 

India Japanning 278 

Lacquers 279 

Preservation of Leather 281 

Boot and Shoe Blacking 282 

Marbles and Sprinkles for Books... 283 

Photography 285 

Metals 292 

Alloys 308 

Fluxes 316 

Soldering and Welding 317 

Amalgams 320 

Gilding, Silvering, &c 322 

Electrotyping 334 

Electroplating 340 

Electrogilding 345 

Electroplating WITH various Metals. 349 



Tests or Reagents 407 

Test Papers 410 

Factitious Mineral Waters 411 

Medicinal Tinctures 414 

Fluid Extracts 418 

Medicinal Essences 42:i 

Medicated Syrups 425 

OXYMEL 431 

Elixirs 431 

Medicated Waters 436 

Medicinal Solutions 437 

Lotions 441 

Liniments 443 

Pills 446 

Ointments, Salves and Cerates 447 

Poultices 452 

Plasters 453 

Gargles 455 

Caustics 456 

Rubefacients 456 

Balsams. 456 

Tonics 458 

Anodynes 459 

Diaphoretics 459 

Diuretics 460 

Electuaries 460 

Fomentations 461 

Alteratives .461 

Emetics 461 

Patent and Proprietary Medicines. .462 

Medical Receipts 478 

Tables of Weights and Measures, <fec.513 
Miscellaneous Receipts 541 



DICK'S ENCYCLOPEDIA 



PRACTICAL RECEIPTS AND PROCESSES. 



Manipulations, under this 
heading will be found a brief descrip- 
tion of the various methods of chemical ma- 
nipulation, constantly employed in this work. 
This is deemed especially necessary, as many, 
if not all, of the processes described, depend 
greatly on carefal and skillful manipulation in 
the preparation as weU as in the combination 
of the necessary ingredients. (See No. 3830. j 

2. Annealing^. The process by which 
glass is rendered less frangible, and metals, 
which have become brittle, again rendered 
tough and malleable. Glass vessels, and other 
articles of glass, are annealed by being placed 
in an oven or apartment near the furnaces at 
which they are formed, caUed the "leer," 
where they are allowed to cool slowly, the 
process being prolonged according to their 
bulk. Steel, iron, arid other metals, are an- 
nealed by heating them and allowing them to 
cool slowly on the hearth of the furnace, or 
any other suitable place, unexposed to the 
cold. 

3. Bath. Incases where an equable h'^at 
has to be sustained at, or not to exceed, a 
certain fixed degree, it is evident that an open 
fire or flame would be too variable Rjr tlie 
purpose. To obviate this diflficulty, the vessel 
to be heated is immersed or imbeddedj to i^ 
convenient depth, in another vessel containing 
water, oil, saline solution, sand, metal, etc., 
as circumstances require, to which the heat is 
apphed and whose temperature can be regula- 
ted, if necessary, by the use of a thermometer. 
Steam is also applied to this purpose ; but, of 
course, requires special apparatus. The baths 
most commonly used are the water bath and 
the sand bath. 

4. Sand Bath. An iron or copper vessel 
should be employed fortius purpose. Sufficient 
sea or river sand, previously washed clean and 
dried, must be put in to cover the bottom 
completely. The vessel to be acted on is then 
introduced, and the intervening space around 
it filled up to the desired height with sand, 
and the whole placed over a furnace. The 
object of the sand is to cut off direct commu- 



nication with the fire and produce a gradual 
and equable heat. 

5. Water Bath, or Bain-Marie. This 
arrangement is used where the heat required 
is not over 212^ Fah., and consists of one 
vessel within another, secured so that they 
cannot come in contact at any point below 
the level of the water which has been intro - 
duced to fill up the space between them. A 
double glue-pot is a water bath. 

As the temperature of water cannot be 
increased, in an open vessel, above its boiling 
point, 212°, a vessel immersed in it can never 
be heated above that point ; and, by keeping 
the water boiling, this degree can be steadily 
sustained. "WTiere other degrees of heat are 
requisite, the following table, showing the 
boiling points of different substances and sat- 
urated solutions, wiU serve as a guide. A still 
higher degree of heat may be reached by using, 
with appropriate vessels, metals whose melting 
point is known. {See Index for Melting Point 
of Metals.) 

6. Table exhibiting in degrees of Fah- 
renheit the Boiling Heat of different 
hquids. 

Ether 96^^ 

do sp. grav. : .7365 at 48° 100 

Carburet of Sulphur 113 

Alcohol, sp. gr. .813 173^ 

'Swnc Acid, sp. gr. 1.42 247 

Water 212 

Ammonia 140 

Muriatic Acid, sp. gr. 1.094 232 

Kectified Petroleum 306 

Oil of Turpentine 316 

Sulphuric Acid, sp. gr. 1.848 600 

do do do 1.810 473 

do do do 1.780 435 

do do do 1.700 374 

do do do 1.650 350 

do do do 1.520 290 

do do do 1.408 260 

do do do 1.300 240 

Phosphorus 554 

Linseed Oil 640 

Whale Oil 630 

Mercury 662 



10 



MANIPULATIONS. 



7, Table showing the Boiling Heat of 
various Saturated Solutions. 

Saturated solution of 

Muriate of Lime 285^ 

Acetate of Soda 256 

Nitrate of Soda 246 

KocheUeSalt 240 

Nitre 238 

Muriate of Animoiiia 236 

Tartrate of Potash 234 

Sea Salt 224i 

Muriate of Soda 224 

Sulphate of Magnesia 222 

Borax 222 

Phosphate of Soda 222 

Carbonate of Soda 220 

Alum 220 

Chlorate of Potash 218 

Sulphate of Copper 216 

Acetate of Lead 215|- 

Glauber Salt 213i 

8. Concentration. The volatilization or 
evaporation of part of a liquid in order to 
increase the strength of the remainder. The 
operation can only be performed on solutions 
of substances of greater fixity than the men- 
strua or liquids in which they are dissolved. 
Many of the liquid acids, solutions of the 
alkalis, etc., are concentrated by distilling oflF 
their water. 

9. Crystallization. Crystals are sym- 
metrical forms assumed by certain bodies in 
solidifying from a liquid or gaseous state: 
and as the same substances, under similar 
circumstances, always assume the same 
crystalline shape, their crystals afford a means 
of distinguishing substances otherwise simOar 
in appearance ; as for instance oxalic acid and 
Epsom salts. Sulphur, anhydrous salts, lead, 
tin, and other fusible substances which are 
unalterable by heat are crystallized by fusion. 
They are to be melted at the lowest possible 
temperature, and allowed to cool very gradu- 
ally. As soon as a crust forms on the surface 
(which then becomes furrowed) it must be 
pierced with a rod, and the fluid portion 
decanted, and the crystals will be found coat- 
ing the interior of the vessel. YolatUe solids, 
such as iodine, camphor, etc., when heated so 
as to produce Sublimation (see No. 30), yield 
vapors which, in cooling, take the form of 
crystals. 

Soluble substances are crystallized by the 
evaporation of a saturated solution of the 
substance. The solution should be made and, 
if necessary, clarified and filtered at boiling 
point, in which state more of the substance is 
held in solution than wben cool; this excess 
is deposited in crystalline form as the solution 
cools or evaporates. The crystals thus ob- 
tained are strained from the remaining Hquid, 
or mother water, and dried. 

If strings be suspended in the hot solution, 
crystals will form upon them dming coohng 
or evaporation; in this manner rock-candy, 
blue vitriol (sulphate of copper), alum, etc., 
are crystallized. Crystallization is also some- 
times the result of chemical reaction ; silver, 
for instance, precipitated from its solutions by 
zinc, forms a crystalline deposit. 

10. Decantation. The operation of pour- 
ing off the clear portion of a liquid from its 
sediment. This is performed either by gently 
inclining the vessel, or by means of a syphon. 



When a liquid is set aside to settle for future 
decantation by the first method, it is best to 
use a bell shaped vessel, or one provided with 
a lip, for convenience in pouring ; as in decant- 
ing from a full vessel whose side is straight, 
the liquid is very apt to flow down the out- 
side of the vessel. This can, however, be 
obviated by holding a glass rod or stick, pre- 
viously wetted in the liquid, nearly upright, 
with one end resting in or suspended over the 
receptacle into which the liquid is to be 
decanted; the liquid is poured gently down 
the upper side of the stick, keeping the rim 
of the vessel in contact with it. The liquid 
wiU be more strongly attracted by the wet 
stick, than by the dry surface of the outside 
of the vessel. {See illustration.) 




If this method of decanting is inconvenient, 
or, from the nature of the vessel, impossible, 
a syphon must be used. This is a tube of 
glass or metal, bent at an angle of about 30°, 
with one leg or end longer than the other. A 
piece of india-rubber tubing makes an excel- 
lent and easily adjusted syphon for decanting 
liquids which will not affect that material. 
The syphon must be first filled and then the 
shorter leg inserted in the liquid, care being 
taken to keep its extremity always below the 
surface, and the liquid will flow continuously 
out of the longer leg as long as there is any 
left in the vessel. For decanting caustic 
liquids, acids, &c., syphons of different kinds 
are provided, constructed especially for the 
purpose. 

11. Deflagration. The sudden combus- 
tion of any substance, for the purpose of pro- 
ducing some change in its composition, by 
the joint action of heat and oxygen. The 
process is commonly performed by projecting 
into a red hot crucible, in small portions at a 
time, a mixture of about equal parts of nitre 
and of the body to be oxidized. 

12. Desiccation. The evaporation or 
drying off of the aqueous portion of solid 
bodies. Plants and chemical preparations 
are deprived of their humidity by exposure 
to the sun, a current of dry air, an atmosphere 
rendered artificially dry by sulphuric acid, or 
by the direct application of heat by means of 
a water-bath, a sand-bath, or a common fire. 
Planks and timber are now seasoned, on the 
large scale, in this way, by which a condition 
may be attained in 2 or 3 days, which, on the 
old system, took as many years to produce. 

13. Distillation. Distillation consists 
in vaporizing a liquid in one vessel, and con- 
ducting the vapor into another vessel, where 
it is condensed and collected. The process is 
used for separating a liquid from solid sub- 
stances with which it may be mixed ; for iin- 
pregnating a liquid with the volatile princi- 



MANIPULATIONS. 



11 



pies of plaDts, as in the preparation of Ban de 
Cologn^e and other aromatic spirits, and for 
separating a more volatile liquid from one less 
so, as alcohol from water. 

For example, as alcohol is transformed into 
vapor at the temperature of 176°, while water 
remains, at this temperature, in a liquid state, 
it is only necessary to heat the mixed liquids 
to 176°^ when the alcohol rises in vapor, and 
the water is left behind. The vessel in which 
the liquids are heated is closed by an air-tight 
cover, and from this cover a pipe is led and 
coiled through a cask of cold water ; as the 
alcoholic vapor enters this cold pipe it is 
condensed to the liquid form. This process of 
evaporating and condensing a liquid is called 
distillation ; the apparatus is called a still or 
retort, and the coiled pipe is the "worm of 
the still," or the condenser. 

On the small scale distillation is performed 
in the simplest way by means of the common 
glass retort (a,) and the receiver (&,) as in 
Fig. 1. The retort may be either simple, as 




Fig. 1. 

in Fig. 2, or tubulated as in Fig. 1, and some- 
times the receiver has a tubulure to allow the 
escape of gas or expanded air, as in Fig. 3. 
The great advantages of the glass retort are 
that it admits of constant observation of the 
materials within, that it is acted upon or in- 
jured by but few substances, and may be 
cleaned generally with facility. Its great 
disadvantage is its brittleness. 

The tubula- 
ted retort is 
more liable to 
crack than the 
plain one, on 
account of the 
necessarily Fig. 2. 

greater thick- 
ness of the glass in the neighborhood of the 
tubulature ; nevertheless it is very convenient 
on account of the fgicility which it offers for 
the introduction of the materials. 

When the common glass retort and receiver 
are used for the distillation of liquids, care 
should be taken not to apply the luting until 
the atmospheric air is expelled {see Lute), 
tmless the receiver has a tubulure for its 
escape. The operator should aim at keeping 
the body of the retort hot, and the neck and 
receiver cool. A hood of pasteboard will 
facilitate the former; and the latter will be 




accomplished by keeping the necK and re- 
ceiver wrapped in wet cloths, on which a 
stream of cold 
water is kept run- 
ning. This may 
be conveniently 
done by means of 
a syphon, made 
by dipping one 
end of a strip of 
cotton in a vessel 
of water, and al- 
lowing the other 
end to hang down 
upon the cloths, 
receiver and the 
Retorts are heated in a 
placed over the naked 




Fig. 3 

bound loosely around^ the 
neck of the retort, 
water or sand bath, 

fire, or they may be held by a circle of metal, 
in which case the retort may be heated by 
the argand gas flame, as in Fig. 1, or by live 
coals. Where it is to be subjected to a heat 
sufficient to soften the glass, the bulb may be 
previously coated with a mixture of clay and 
sand, and dried. (See Nos. 1695 and follow- 
ing.) 

Even on the small scale it is sometimes 
necessary to employ distillatory apparatus 
constructed of other materials besides glass. 

The still in general use {see page 1*2) may be 
considered as composed of three or four parts : 

I. The cucurbit or body of the still, A. 
This portion of the apparatus receives the 
dh-ect action of the fire, and contains the 
liquid to be distilled when the process is to 
be conducted by a naked fire. It is in the 
form of a truncated reversed cone. A, mounted 
on a rounded portion, a a, which rests on the 
furnace, X X, and terminated at the top by 
a collar of somewhat smaller diameter than 
the lower part. 

C is a hole by which the liquid is introduced 
into the body of the apparatus ; d d are the 
handles. 

II. The water-bath, B, a cylindrical vessel 
of tin or tinned copper, which is placed in the 
cucurbit. A, closing it Kghtly by means of 
the coUar, m, which rests on the collar, h b. 
This vessel is used only when the mixture to 
be distilled is not exposed to the direct heat 
of the fire ; in this case the cucurbit. A, fulfills 
the office of a water-bath, and the vessel, B, 
takes the place of the cucurbit. 

When, instead of distilling by the naked 
fire, the water-bath is employed, water only 
is put into the cucurbit, in which the vessel, 
B, is placed containing the liquid to be dis- 
tiUed. 

III. The head of the capital, G. This part 
may be placed either on the cucurbit, when 
distilling by naked fixe, or on the vessel, B, if 
used, care having been taken to make both 
openings of the same size ; it is very nearly^ 
the shape of the upper part of a retort, and is 
furnished with a large pipe by which the 
vapor is to be carried off" to the worm or 
cooler. 

n. A hole which, during the operation, is 
kept closed by a screw top, e, and its use is to 
introduce fresh liquid into the cucurbit with- 
out having to disconnect the apparatus. 

lY. The cooler or worm, D. This is a 
long tin pipe, bent in the form of a screw, and 
enclosed in a copper or wooden vessel fuU of 



12 



MANIP ULA TIONS, 




cold water. The up- 
per part of the pipe, 
which is often en- 
larged in a globular 
form, receives from 
the beak of the cap- 
ital the vapors 
arising from the cu- 
curbit; the lower 
f>ortion is open be- 
ow, so that the con- 
densed liquid flows 
into a vessel placed 
underneath. 

All the joints of 
the apparatus are to 
be luted with bands 
of paper soakedin 
paste; the joint of 
the cucurbit, when 
used as a water- 
bath, must not be 
tight, in order to al- 
low of the escape of 
the steam from the X 
boil ng water. (See 
Lute.) 

g g. Tin rests for 
supporting and fix- 
ing the worm in the 
vessel. 

h. A vertical pipe 
fixed to the side of 
the vessel, open at both ends and terminated 
at the top by a funnel. 

This pipe serves to renew the water in the 
cooler; cold water is poured in at the top 
which flows to the bottom of the vessel, and 
being of a lower specific gravity than the hot 
water, forces it out at the escape pipe, i. 

k. A tap, by which all the water in the 
woim tub can be discharged. 

/. A connecting pipe inserted between the 
beak of the capital and the coUar of the still 
is of precisely the same height as the collar, 
m, of the cucurbit, B, and is only used in 
distilling by the water-bath; when a naked 
fire is used this pipe is unnecessary, as the 
beak wiU reach down to the coUar of the still 
without it. 

In distilling perfumes and cordials, the 
object is to extract or separate the odorous 
and aromatic principle from the roots, flowers, 
seed, or spices used to impart the character- 
istic odor and taste to the liquor, and it is 
usual to macerate such ingredients in strong 
alcohol several days before distillation. Great 
care should be taken that the heat should, in 
all cases, he as gentle and uniform as possible. 
Remember that accidents may be efiectually 
prevented by distiUing spirits in a water-bath, 
which, if sufficiently large, will perform the 
operation with all the dispatch requisite for 
the most extensive business. 

14. Elutriation. In chemistry, the ope- 
ration of washing insoluble powders with 
water, to separate them from foreign matter, 
or the coarser portion. It is usually per- 
foraaed by grinding or triturating the mass 
with a little water, until reduced to a very 
fine powder, and this paste is suddenly dif- 
fused through a large quantity of water in a 
deep vessel, from which, after the subsidence 
of the grosser portion, the liquid is poured in- 



to another vessel, and allowed to deposit the 
fine powder it still holds in suspension. 
"When this has taken place, the clear super- 
natant liquor is decanted, and the sediment 
drained and dried. The coarse sediment de- 
posited in the first vessel is now submitted to 
a fresh grinding and difiusion through water, 
and the enthe operation is repeated, until 
the whole of the pulverizable portion is 
washed over. The proper length of time for 
the liquid to remain in the first vessel, depends 
solely on the density of the powder, and the 
degree of fineness required in the product; 
heavy powders subsiding alraost immediately, 
while light ones often take several minutes to 
deposit their coarser portion. Sometimes 
three or more vessels are employed, and the 
muddy liquor, after remaining a short time in 
the first, is pom-ed into the next one, and 
this, in a short time longer, into the third, 
and so on, until the last vessel is filled, by 
which means, powders of different degrees of 
fineness are obtained; that deposited in the 
last vessel being in the minutest state of 
division. 

15. Evaporation. The conversion of a 
fluid into vapor by means of heat, diminished 
atmospheric pressm-e, or exposure to a dry 
atmosphere. The process of evaporation is 
resorted to ; — 1. For the vapor as a source of 
heat or power, as in steam boilers, &c,; — 2. 
To separate volatile fluids from other bodies 
which are either fixed or less volatile ; — 3. To 
recover solid bodies from their solutions ; — 4. 
To concentrate or strengthen a solution by 
expeUing a portion of the liquid; — 5. To 
puiify liquids by expelling any volatile mat- 
ters which they may contain. As evapora- 
tion is, under ordinary circumstances, confined 
to the surface of the liquid, wide shallow 
vessels are the best for the pm-pose ; the pro- 



MANIPULATIONS. 



13 



cess is greatly facilitated by exposing the 
surface to a cuiTent of dry air, especially if 
the air he heated. On a small scale, shallow 
capsules of glass, wedgwood ware, porcelain or 
metal, are commonly employed, and are ex- 
posed to heat by placing them over a lamp, 
open fire, or in a water or sand-bath. {See 
No. 44.) 

16. Fermentation. Chemists distinguish 
fermentation into live kinds, viz : 

Thp saccharine fermentation, by which 
starch and gum are converted into sugar. 

The alcoholic or vinous fermentation, by 
whi^h sugar is converted into alcohol. 

The viscous or mucilaginous fermentation, 
which converts sugar into slime or mucilage, 
Instead of alcohol. 

The acetous fermentation, by which alcohol 
is converted into vinegar. 

The putrid fermentation, or ^putrefaction, 
which is exhibited in its most marked form in 
the putrefaction of animal substances. 

17. Filtration. The word filtration is 
absolutely synonymous with straining; but, 
in the language of the laboratory, the former 
is usually applied to the operation of render- 
ing liquids transparent, or nearly so, by 
passing them through fine media, as filtering 
paper, for instance; the latter to the mere 
separation of the grosser portion, by running 
them through coarse media, as flannel, horse- 
hair cloth, etc., through which they flow 
with considerable rapidity. Filtration is 
distinguished from clarification, by the former 
removing the solid matter, or cause of opacity 
or foulness, by mere mechanical means, 
whereas the latter consists in the clearing of 
a liquid by depuration, or the subsidence of 
the suspended substances or fseces, arising 
from their gravity being naturally greater 
than the fluid with which they are mixed, or 
being rendered so by heat or the addition of 
some foreign substance. {See Fining.) 

The apparatus, vessels, or media, employed 
for filtration, are called filters, and are com- 
monly distinguished from strainers by the 
superior fineness of their pores, as above 
noticed. 

Both strainers and filters act on the same 
principles as the common sieve on powders ; 
they all, in like manner, retain or hold back 
the coarser matter, but permit the liquid or 
smaller and more attenuated particles to pass 
through. The term medium has been applied 
to the substance through the pores of which 
the liquid percolates. 

The forms of filters, and the substances of 
which they are composed, are various, and 
depend upon the nature of the Kquids for 
which they are intended. On the small scale, 
funnels of tin, zinc, copper, wedgwood ware, 
earthenware, glass, or porcelain, are common- 
ly employed as the containing vessels. The 
filtering medium may be any substance of a 
suflBlciently spongy or porous nature to allow 
of the free percolation of the liquid, and 
whose pores are, at the same time, sufficiently 
fine to render it limpid or transparent. Un- 
sized paper, flannel, linen, muslin, cotton- wood, 
felt, sand, coarsely-powdered charcoal, porous 
stone or earthenware, and numerous other 
isubstances of a similar kind are employed 
for this purpose. 

Filters of unsized paper are well suited for 



all liquids that are not of a corrosive or viscid 
nature, and are universally employed for 
filtering small quantities of liquids in the 
laboratory. A piece of the paper is taken, of a 
size proportionate to the quantity of the sub- 
stance to be filtered, and is first doubled from 
corner to corner into a triangle {see Fig. 1, 
helow), which is again doubled into a smaller 
triangle, and the angular portion of the 
margin being rounded off with a pair oi 
scissors, constitutes a paper cone, which is 
placed on a funnel and nearly filled with the 
liquid. A piece of paper so cut, when laid 
flat upon a table, should be nearly cii'cular. 
Another method of forming a paper filter, pre- 
ferred by some persons, is to double the paper 
once, as above described, and then to fold it 

in a similar 
way to a fan, 
observing so 
to open it 
{see Fig. 2) 
and lay it on 
the funnel 
that a suffi- 
cient inter- 
val be left 
between the 
two to per- 
mit of the 
free percola- 




Fig. 1. 




tion of the liquid. {See Fig. 3.) 

To promote the same object, a funnel should 
be deeply ribbed inside, or small rods of wood or 

glass, or pie- 
ces of straw, 
or quills, 
should be 
placed be- 
tween it and 
the paper. 
The neck of 
a funnel 
should also 
be deeply rib- 
bed or fluted 
_. „ outside, to 

^^d' ^' permit of the 

free outward passage of the air when it is 
placed in a narrow-mouthed bottle or receiver. 
Unless this is the case, the flltration will pro- 
ceed but slowly, and the filtered liquid will be 
driven up the out- 
side of the neck of 
the funnel by the 
confined air, and 
will be continually 
hissing and flowing 
over the mouth of 
the vessel. The 
breadth of a funnel, 
to filter well, should 
be about three- 
fourths of its height, 
reckoning from the 
throat or neck. If 
deeper, the paper is 
liable to be contin- 
ually ruptured from 
the prersure of the 
fluid; and when 
shallotcer, filtration 
proceeds slowly, 
Fig. 3. and an unnecessa- 




14r 



MANIPULATIONS. 



rily large surface of the liquid is exposed to 
evaporation. To lessen this as much as pos- 
sible, the upper edge of the glass is frequently 
ground perfectly smooth, and a piece of smooth 
plate-glass is laid thereon. When paper fil- 
ters are of large dimensions, or for aqueous 
fluids that soften the texture of the paper, or 
for collecting heavy powders or metallic pre- 
cipitates, it is usual to support them on hnen or 
muslin to prevent then* breaking. This is best 
done by folding the cloth up vrith the paper 
and cutting the filter out of the two, in the 
same way as would be done with doubled 
paper, observing so to place it in the funnel 
that the paper and muslin may remain close 
together, especially towards the bottom. 

The filtration of small quantities of liquids, 
as in chemical experiments, may often be 
conveniently performed by merely placing the 
paper on the circular top of a recipient ; or 
on a ring of glass or earthenware laid on the 
top of any suitable vessel. A filter of this 
kind, that will hold one fluid ounce, will filter 
many ounces of some liquids in an hour. 

Good filtering paper should contain no sol- 
uble matter, and should not give more than 
one two hundred and fiftieth to one two hun- 
dred and tMrtieth of its weight of ashes. The 
soluble matter may be removed by washing 
it, first with very dilute muriatic acid, and 
secondly with distilled water. 

For filtering a larger quantity of a liquid 
than can be conveniently managed with a fun- 
nel, and also for substances that are either too 
Tiscid or too much loaded with feculence to 
allow them to pass freely through paper, 
conical bags made of flannel, felt, twilled cot- 
ton cloth or Canton flannel, linen, or muslin, 
and suspended to h'on hooks by rings or tapes, 
are commonly employed. {See Fig. 4.) The 




first two of the above substances are prefer- 
able for saccharine, mucilaginous, and acidu- 
lous liquids ; the third for oily ones ; and the 
remainder for tinctures, weak alkaline lyes, 
and similar solutions. These bags have the 
disadvantage of sucking up a considerable 



quantity of the fluid poured into them, and 
are therefore objectionable, except for large 
quantities, or when continued in actual use 
as filters for some time. On the large scale, 
a number of them are usually worked to- 
gether, and are generally enclosed in cases to 
prevent evaporation, and to exclude dipt fi-om 
the filtered liquor that trickles down their 
outsides. 

A very simple mode of filtering aqueous 
fluids, which are not injm-ed by exposure to 
the air, is to draw them off from one vessel 
to another, by means of a number of threads 
of loosely twisted cotton or worsted arranged 
in the form of a syphon. The little cotton 
rope at once performs the operations of de- 
cantation and filtration. This method is often 
convenient for sucking off the water from 
small quantities of precipitates. 

When pulverulent substances, as sand, 
coarsely -powdered charcoal, etc., are em- 
ployed as the media for filtration, vessels of 




Fig. 5. 

wood, or stoneware, are employed to contain 
them and the supernatant liquid. In these 
cases, the filtering medium is usually arranged 
as a shelf or diaphragm, and divides the vessel 
into two compartments ; the upper one being 
intended to contain the liquid, and the under 
one to receive the same when filtered. Such 
au apparatus is set in operation by merely 
filling the upper chamber, and may, at any 
time, be readily cleaned out by reversing it 
and passing clean water through it in an 
opposite direction. The following is a filter 
of this description, and very simple in its 
arrangement. {See Fig. b.) ^ is a common 
cask, B and C are false bottoms, fitting in per- 
fectly air tight, but perforated with one-fourth 
inch holes. C should be covered with canvas, 
and above that a sheet of cotton wadding ; 
above the wadding is a bed of pe7fectly clean 
sand, 3 inches deep. The sand should be cov- 
ered over with flannel, and above the flannel 
should be a bed of granulated animal charcoal 
(sifted and fanned from the dust), 4 inches 
in depth. After having done this, fit in the 
false bottom, B, and cover it with a piece of 
cotton cloth, i) is a bag made of Canton 
flannel to prevent the liquor being filtered 
from coming with too much force upon the 
false bottom. By substituting cotton wadding 
instead of the charcoal in the above filter, a 
fine filter for brandy and other liquors may 
be obtained. 



MA iS^ZP ULA TI0:N^S. 



15 



A filter -whioh. possesses the advantages of 
being easily and cheaply cleaned when dirty, 
and which very thoroughly purifies brandy 
or water with great rapidity, may be formed 
by placing a stratum of sponge between two 
perforated metdllic plates, united by a central 
screw, and arranged in such a manner as to 
permit of the sponge being co?wj?re55e^ to any 
required degree. Brandy or water, under 
j gentle pressure, flows with great rapidity 
'through the pores of compressed sponge. 

It is ofl;en of great advantage to render a 
filter self-acting, or to construct it in such a 
way that it may feed itself, so that it may 
continue full and at work without the con- 
stant attention of the operator. On the small 
scale, this may be readily efi'ected by an ar- 
rangement as represented in Fig. 6; and on 
the large scale by pla- 
cing the vessel con- 
taining the unfiJtered 
liquid on a higher level 
than the filter, and by 
having the end of the 
supply-pipe fitted with 
a ball cock, to keep the 
liquid in the filter con- 
stantly at the same 
heign t. ( See Ao. 3840. ) 

The rapidity of fil- 
tration depends upon 
the porosity of the fil- 
tering medium — the 
extent of filtering sur- 
face — the relative vis- 
^ciditij or Umpidness of 
the filtering liquid, 
and the porosity and 
fineness of the sub- ^*^- "• 

stances it holds in suspension. The most 
efficient filter is produced when the first two 
are so graduated to the latter, that the liquid 
filters rapidly and is rendered perfectly trans- 
parent. (See Xo. ^838.) (Cooley.) 

Junctures and dilute spirits are usually 
filtered through bibulous paper placed on a 
funnel, or through thin and fine cotton bags. 
In general, tinctures clarify themselves by the 
subsidence of the suspended matter, when al- 
lowed to repose for a few days. Hence it is 
the bottoms alone that require filtering ; the 
supernatant clear portion need only be run 
through a small hair sieve, a piece of tow or 
cotton placed in the throat of a funnel, or 
some other coarse medium, to remove any 
floating substances, as pieces of straw, &c. 
Spirits largely loaded with essential oil, as 
those of aniseed, (fee, run rapidly through 
paper or muslin, but usually require the addi- 
tion of a spoonful or two of magnesia before 
they will flow quite clear. Wlien possible, 
tinctm*es, spirits, and all similar volatile fluids, 
are better cleared by subsidence or clarifica- 
tion than by filtration, as, in the latter way, 
part ib ioot by evaporation. (See JS'os. 3834, <fec.) 

18. Gun-cotton as a Filter. Gun-cot- 
ton, carefully prepared, is scarcely acted on 
by the most energetic chemical agents at or- 
dinary teniperatures. It may therefore be 
used as a filter for solutions containing strong 
acids, alkahes, etc. 

19. Fusion. Aqueous fusion is the dis- 
solving of crystalline compounds in their own 
water of crystaUization, by the application of 




heat. Igneous fusion is a term applied to the 
liquefaction of bodies by heat alone. The 
containing vessels used for igneous fusion 
should be of a material capable of sustaining 
the requisite degree of heat without either 
melting or cracking. Crucibles made of very 
refractory clay are used for high temperatures, 
metallic or earthenware vessels for lower de- 
grees of heat. 

20. Granulation. The reduction of 
metals into grains, drops, or coarse powder. 
This is done by pouring them, in the melted 
state, into water. The same efi'ect is obtained 
by violently agitating the molten metal until 
cool, in a wooden box, well chalked inside. 
(See JVb. 25.) In many cases the metal is 
allowed to run through the holes of a kind of 
colander or sieve to produce minute division ; 
if the drops are allowed to fall from a sufficient 
height, they will become spherical; in this 
way lead shot is made. 

21. Liiquation. The process of sweating 
out, by heat, the more fusible metals of an 
alloy. 

22. Liquefaction. The conversion of a 
solid into the liquid state, either by heat — 
fusion, (see No. 19) ; absorption of water from 
the an- — deliquescence; or the action of a 
fluid body — solution. (See No. 29.) The 
liquefaction of gases and vapors is effected by 
pressure and cold. 

23. liixiviation. The process of disolv- 
ing out or extracting the saline matter of 
bodies, more especially of ashes, (fee, by 
means of ablution or digestion in water. The 
solution so obtained is called a lye or lixivium, 
and the salts resulting from the evaporation 
of such solutions, lixivial salts. 

24. Precipitation. This is the method 
for obtaining solid matter, by mixing two or 
more solutions of substances containing cer- 
tain elementary equivalents which have a 
strong mutual chemical affinity. That fluid 
which is added to another to produce precipi- 
tation is called the precipitant. If a solution 
is to be precipitated, it is best, unless other- 
wise directed, to first heat it by means of a 
sand bath. (See No. A.) A tall beU-shaped 
glass with a mouth is the best for precipitat- 
ing. The precipitant is to be added gradually, 
stirring the mixture continually with a glass 
rod, until precipitation ceases. The liquid 
should then be allowed to settle until clear. 
In order to ascertain whether there is any 
matter left in the liquid unprecipitated, let 
one drop of the precipitant fall into the mix- 
ture ; if any signs of precipitation ensue, more 
must be added; if the mixture remains un- 
changed and clear, the operation is complete. 
The liquid may then be carefuUy decanted 
and the precipitated matter, which is called a 
precipitate, filtered and dried. THien the pre- 
cipitate is the chief object of the process, it is 
usually necessary to wash it after filtration. 
This operation requires but little attention 
when the precipitate is insoluble in water; 
but when it is in some degree soluble in that 
liquid, great attention is required to prevent 
the loss which m>ght result from the use of 
too much water. Precipitates soluble in 
water, but insoluble in alcohol, are frequently, 
on a small scale, washed with spirit more or 
less concentrated. (See No. 14.) 

25. Pulverization. The reduction of 



16 



MANIPULATIONS. 



any substance to dnst or powder is generally 
performed by means of a pestle and mortar, or, 
on a larger scale, by stamping, grinding or 
milling. A few soft substances, as carbonate 
of magnesia, carbonate of lead, &c., may be 
pulverized by simply rubbing through a fine 
sieve ; while many hard and gritty, and some 
soft substances, such as chalk, antimony, <fec., 
are pulverized on a large scale by elutriation. 
{See No. 14.) Others will only yield to a 
rasp or file. "WTiichever method is adopted, 
the substance to be pulverized must be very 
dry, and may even require artificial drying 
or desiccation. {See No. 12.) On the other 
hand, a few substances, as rice, sago, nux 
vomica, &c., are often soaked in water, or 
steamed, before being pulverized. In some 
cases, some other substance or intermedium is 
introduced to aid in the operation; thus, 
sugar is used in pulverizing civet, musk, nut- 
meg, and vanilla; absorbing the moisture 
which could not otherwise be readily got rid 
of. The addition of a very small quantity of 
alcohol renders the powdering of camphor 
easy. Gold leaf is pulverized by mixing with 
sulphate of potassa, and then removing the 
potassa by washing with water. {See also 
No. 2517.) Fusible metals are reduced by 
melting and rubbing in a mortar until cold, 
or by agitating when melted in a box covered 
inside with chalk or whiting. Glass, quartz 
and silicated stones require to be heated red 
hot and then thrown into cold water, to make 
them sufficiently friable for pulverization. 
When powdering very dusty or costly articles 
in a mortar, it should be covered with a loose 
skin of leather, fastened firmly round the top 
of the mortar and the pestle, to prevent loss 
of the dust, and possible injury to the opera- 
tor's lungs. "When a substance is required to 
be reduced to an impalpable powder, a slab 
and muller are used ; this process is termed 
porpliyrization. 

26. Reduction. This term is applied to 
a process by which the oxygen is withdrawn 
from a metallic oxide, leaving the base in its 
original state. This is eff"ected by heating the 
oxide with carbon or hyorogen ; or by expos- 
ing it to the action of some other body which 
has a powerful affinity for oxygen. A por- 
tion of^the metallic oxide to be reduced, is 
mixed with finely powdered charcoal and ex- 
posed in a crucible to the heat of a furnace. 
The metallic residue, which remains after re- 
duction by this means, is usually mixed with 
coal dust. This is prevented by lining the 
crucible with charcoal dust made into a dough 
with clay and water, leaving a space in the 
middle to receive the metalhc oxide, not 
mixed with charcoal, as in the former instance ; 
the crucible must be covered, and then heated. 
The reduction in this way is slower, but the 
metal will be pure and free from coal dust. 

When hydrogen is employed for reduction, 
the metallic oxide is heated to redness in a 
glass or porcelain tube, and subjected to a 
current of hydrogen gas, which absorbs the 
oxygen, and leaves the metal pure. Other 
agents are sometimes used for reducing, as 
tallow, oil, resin, sugar, and starch ; but car- 
bon and hydrogen are the agents generally 
employed. 

27. Saturation. A liquid is said to be 
saturated with some other substance when it 



ceases to dissolve any more of it. An acid is 
saturated with an alkali when sufficient of the 
alkali has been added to completely neutralize 
the acid, and vice versa. 

28. Sifting. This is a means employed 
to obtain uniformity of fineness in a pulver- 
ized substance ; and is also of use in mixing 
diflferent substances powdered to the same 
degree of fineness. The sieves used for this 
purpose are furnished with cloths of various 
materials and different degrees of fineness; 
consisting of brass wire, horse hair, buckram, 
book muslin, gauze, or raw silk; this last 
constituting a bolting cloth for sifting im- 
palpable powders. These are stretched over 
a wooden cylinder in the same manner as the 
head of a drum. During the process of pul- 
verizing, the use of the sieve is necessg-ry from 
time to time to separate the finer powder from 
the ^oarser particles, which have to be re- 
turned after each sifting, to the mortar for 
further trituration. The powder is made to 
pass through the meshes of the sieve by 
gently agitating it between the hands; a 
rough jan-ing motion will force through some 
of the coarser particles, and destroy the uni- 
formity of the powder. A sieve should be 
fitted with a drum head, top and bottom, the 
upper one to confine the dust of the substance 
being sifted, and the lower one to catch the 
silted powder as it falls through the sieve. 
An arrangement of this kind is called a drum 
or box sieve. 

29. Solution. Under the head of solu- 
tions, are properly included only those liquids 
which consist of water or an aqueous men- 
struum, in which has been dissolved an ap- 
propriate quantity of any soluble suljstance to 
impart to the liquor its peculiar properties. 
When spirit is the dissolving medium, the 
Mquid receives the name of alcoholic solution, 
spirit, or tincture, while substances dissolved 
in water form aqueous solutions. In cases 
where a substance is dissolved in an acid or 
alkaline solution, whose acid or alkali is after- 
wards neutrahzed by means of an alkali (to 
counteract the acid), or an acid (to destroy 
alkali), the solution is then termed a neutral 
solution. A satm-ated solution is a solution 
made according to Iso. 27. 

Professor Toumans, in the " Hand Book of 
Household Science," says : " Sohds should 
be crushed or pulverized, to expose the largest 
surface to the action of the solvent liquid. 
Substances which in the lump would remain 
for days undissolved, when reduced to powder 
are liquefied in a short time. When a solid, 
as common salt or alum, is placed in a vessel 
of water to dissolve, it rests at the bottom. 
The water siuToimding it becomes saturated, 
and being heavier, remains also at the bot- 
tom, so that the solution proceeds very slowly. 
By sth-ring, the action is hastened, but this 
takes up much time. The best plan is to 
suspend the salt hi a colander, basket, or 
coarse bag, at the smface of the liquid. As 
the particles of water take up the particles of 
salt, they become heavier and sink; other 
particles take their places, dissolve more of 
the salt, and sink in turn, so that the action 
of a constant current of liquid is kept up on 
the suspended crystals, and always at that 
portion most capable of dissolving them." 

30. Sublimation. The process by which 



PBEFABATIONS. 



17 



Tolatile solid substances are reduced to the 
state of vapor by heat, and again condensed 
in solid form. It differs from ordinary distil- 
lation only in being confined to dry solid 
substances, and in the heat employed being, 
in general, much greater. Calomel, corrosive 
sublimate, and sal ammoniac, are thus pre- 
pared. 

31. Trituration. The reduction of a 
solid body to powder by rubbing. This is 
effected on a small scale by means of a pestle 
and mortar ; and on a large scale by grinding 
m a mill, or with a muller or a slab made of 
porphyry or other hard substance ; this latter 
is termed porplujrization. 

32. "Washing. This is resorted to in 
chemistry for two widely different purposes. 
When a substance contains both soluble and 
insoluble matter, the soluble portion can be 
separated from the insoluble by washing ; this 
is called Lixuiation. (See No. 23.J 

When it is desired to cleanse or remove im- 
purities from an insoluble powder, this is also 
effected by washing. {See Nos. 14 ayid 3841.) 



Preparations. The following 
methods of preparing decoctions, ex- 
tracts, tinctures, &c, are from the best practi- 
cal som-ces. Other directions for making 
extracts, essences, attars, &c., for the special 
purposes of Perfumery, <fec., will be foxuLcl 
under their respective headings. 

34. To Prepare Decoctions. Decoc- 
tions are solutions of the properties of vegeta- 
bles obtained by boiling, which is presurned 
to be a more effective method of extracting 
their properties than mere infusion. 

For making decoctions, the substances 
should be well bruised, or reduced to a venj 
coarse powder, or, if fr-esh and soft, they 
should be sliced small. In the former case, 
any very fine powder or adhering dust should 
be removed with a sieve, as its presence 
would tend to make the product thick and 
disagreeable, and also more troublesome to 
strain. The vessel in which the boiling is 
conducted should be furnished with an accu- 
rately fittLQg cover, the better to exclude the 
air, and the heat should be so regulated that 
the fluid may be kept " simmering," or only 
gently boiling, as violent boiliag is not only 
quite unnecessary, but absolutely iajurious. 
In every case the liquor should be strained 
while liot, but not boiling, and the best meth- 
od of doing this is to employ a fine hair sieve, 
or a coarse flannel bag. In general it is 
found, that as decoction's cool, a sediment is 
formed, in consequence of the boiling water 
dissolving a larger portion of vegetable mat- 
ter than it can retain in solution when cold. 
This deposit for the most part consists of the 
activo principles of the solution, and should 
be mingled with the clear liquid hj agitation, 
when the decoction is used. It will thus be 
seen that the common practice of leaving the 
filtration until the liqmd has become cold, and 
also of rejecting the sediment, is injudicious, 
and should be scrupulously avoided; as, how- 
ever much decoctions so prepared may please 
the eye, they are not only inferior in strength, 
but, in many cases, nearly inert. It may be 
further remarked, that long boiling is in no 



case necessary, and should be avoided, espe- 
cially in decoctions prepared fr'om aromatic 
vegetables, or those abounding ia extractiva 
The colleges, in such cases, direct the ingre- 
dients "to be boiled for a short time," or ''for 
10 minutes," or they limit the time of boiliag 
by stating the quantity that must be volatil- 
ized, as — "boil to s^jpint, and strain," the lat- 
ter method being generally employed fol 
those substances that do not suffer by length- 
ened boiling. 

Distilled water, or perfectly clean rain 
water, should alone be used for decoctions. 
Spring and river water, fr-om their containing 
lime, have less solvent powers. 

Decoctions of all vegetables not exerting a 
very poiverful action on the human system 
may be made by boiling 1 ounce of the vegeta- 
ble matter in 1 pint of water for 10 or 15 
minutes. The ordinary dose of such a decoc- 
tion is the same as that of a similar infusion. 
{SeeNo.2>7.) 

Whien the medicinal properties of vegetables 
are volatile, or are injured by a strong heat, 
infusion should be had recom-se to, in prefer- 
ence to boiling; but, when a solution of the 
fixed constituents is alore sought, decoction 
is preferable. In preparing compound decoc- 
tions, those ingredients should be boiled first 
which least readily impart their active princi- 
ples, and those which most readily impart 
them should be added afterwards. In many 
cases it will be proper simply to infuse the 
^ncre aromatic substances in the hot decoction 
Oj. .he other ingredients, by which means 
the:.- volatile principles will be preserved. 

35, To Prepare Tinctures. Tinctures 
are so. r. dons of vegetable and animal drugs, 
and sometimes of mineral substances, in spir- 
ituous liquids. The spirit most commonly 
employed is proof-spirit; sometimes rectified 
spiritis used, and occasionally ether. Ammonia 
is sometimes conj oined with the spirit, in which 
case the solution is termed an ammoniated 
tincture. Eectified spirit is alcohol, with 16 
per cent, of water, and its specific gravity is 
.838. Proof-spirit is composed of 5 parts of 
rectified spirit mixed with 3 parts of water, 
the resulting compound containing 47.5 per 
cent, of water, specific gravity .920. The 
choice between proof and rectified spirit de- 
pends on their respective solvent powers over 
the active principles of the drugs employed. 

Tinctures are usually prepared by reducing 
the solid ingredients to smaU fragments, 
coarse powder, or fine powder, macerating 
them for 7 days or upwards in proof or rec- 
tified spirit, straining the solution through 
linen or muslin, or paper, and finally express- 
ing the residuum strongly, to obtain what 
fluid is still retained in the mass. They are 
also prepared by the method of displacement. 
{See No. 41.) All tinctures should be pre- 
pared in close glass or stoneware veesels, and 
be shaken fr'equently during the process of 
maceration. Tinctures are better clarified by 
repose than by filtration, as in the latter case a 
considerable portion is retained by the fil- 
tering medium, and lost by evaporation. In 
ordinary cases, it wiU be sufficient to allow 
the tincture to settle for a few days, and then 
to pour off the clear supernatant portion 
through a fnnnel loosely choked with a piece 
of sponge or tow, to keep back any floating 



18 



PBEPABATIONS. 



fragments of straw or other light substances; 
after which the remaining foul portion of the 
liquid may be filtered through paper. "When 
it is absolutely necessary to filter a tincture, 
and the quantity is large, conical bags should 
be employed. The filtration should be con- 
ducted as rapidly as possible, for the double 
purpose of lessening the amount lost by evap- 
oration, and the action of the air on the fluid. 
Tinctures long ©xposed to the air frequently 
lose their transparency within a few days 
after their filtration, owing to the oxidation 
and precipitation of some portion of the mat- 
ter previously held in solution. Kesinous and 
oily tinctures, as those of myrrh, tolu, and 
lavender, may be usually restored to their 
Former brightness by the addition of a quan- 
tity of spirit, equal to that which they have 
^ost by evaporation; but many tinctm-es resist 
*his mcAe of treatment, and require refiltering. 
Ethezeal tinctures are best prepared by perco- 
lation, and should be both made and kept in 
stoppered bottles. 

Wlien both the substances are fluid, as in 
the case of certain balsams, the spirituous so- 
lution is made by merely mixing the two 
^together in suitable proportions. For instance 
— Tinctm-e or essence of Tolu consists of 3 
drachms balsam of Tolu and 1 quart of al- 
cohol. 

The tinctm-es of the drug-stores are usually 
very uncertain and inferior preparations. 'Eot 
only is their manufactm*e carelessly conduct- 
ed, without reference to the respective char- 
acters of their ingredients, but the ingredients 
themselves are often deficient in strength and 
quantity. 

TVe will now proceed to explain the various 
methods by which good tinctures are obtained. 

36. To obtain Tinctures by Infusion, 
Maceration, and Digestion. In order to 
extract the soluble principles of substances 
which cannot be advantageously distilled, in- 
fusion is often resorted to. This consists in 
submitting them for a greater or less period 
of time to the action of a liquid, with or with- 
out the aid of heat. 

This is known by the name of infusion, 
digestion, or maceration, terms all signifying 
the same process with difi'erent modifications 
in the way of conducting it. 

87. Infusion. When the principles to 
be extracted are soluble in water, and at the 
same time but slightly volatile, boiliag water 
is poured on the substance of which the infu- 
sion is required, the vessel is carefully covered, 
and the whole allowed to remain untouched 
for some miautes or even some hours, accord- 
ing to the greater or less penetrability of the 
substance, and the required strength of the 
infusion ; the result is an infusion, properly 
so called. 

If an infusion is required of dried leaves or 
flowers, they are first moistened with a little 
boning water, and a time allowed for them to 
swell and soften before adding the rest of the 
water. Infusions made by adding aU the 
water at once, as is still frequently practiced, 
are deficient both in flavor and perfume. The 
infusion of tea is an every-day illustration of 
this ; as aU who can make a good cup of tea 
know how necessary it is to first draio the 
tea with a smaU portion of water ; and yet, 
strange to say, this principle is utterly ne- 



glected in the case of coffee, where its applica- 
tion is just as eff'ective. {See French Coffee.) 

Infusions of aU vegetables that do not 
exert a very powerful action on the human 
frame, may be made by pouring 1 pint of 
boiling water on 1 ounce of the vegetable 
matter and allowing it to macerate for from 
i to 1 hour. Tlie ordinary dose of such in- 
fusions is 1 to 2 ounces three or four times a 
day. 

Infusions, like decoctions, are liable to un- 
dergo spontaneous decomposition by keeping, 
especially in warm weather, when a few hours 
are often sufficient for then* passage into a 
state of active fermentation; they should 
therefore be prepared for use daily, as beyond 
24 hours they cannot be depended on. 

Infusions should be made in vessels which 
cannot be attacked by any of the substances 
with which they are in contact, and closed 
sufficiently tight to prevent the loss of the 
most volatile principles. 

The tin cucurbit, with cover, is in these two 
respects best adapted for infusions in water. 

38. Concentrated Infusions. These 
are now very generally met with in trade, 
and are made of 8 times the pharmacopoeial 
strength. They are mostly prepared by em- 
ploying 8 times the usual quantity of ingre- 
dients, and only three-fom-ths of the proper 
quantity of water, and adding to the strained 
liq^uor, when cold, sufficient spirit of wine to 
bring the liquid up to the proper strength 
(about one-third of the weight of the strained 
infusion). A still better plan is to treat 8 
times the usual quantity of the ingredients 
with a mixture of rectified spirits 1 part and 
cold water 3 parts ; in the usual way for 
making tinctures, either by maceration for 7 
to 14 days, or by percolation. Concentrated 
infusions made in this way keep well, and de- 
posit scarcely any sediment. Many houses, 
that are remarkable for the brilliancy and 
beauty of these preparations, employ one- 
third sphit of wine and two-thu'ds water as 
the menstruum. It may, however, be taken 
as a general rule, that for vegetable substances 
that abound in woody fibre, and contain but 
little extractive matter soluble in water (as 
quassia for instance), one-sixth to one-fifth 
part of spirit is sufficient for their preserva- 
tion ; wMle for those abounding in mucilage 
or fecula, or that readily soften and become 
pulpy and glutinous in ivealc spirit (as rhu- 
barb), one-fifth to one-third is required. By 
macerating in the infusion as much bruised 
mustard seed as can be added without flavor- 
ing the liquor, along with a fittle bruised 
cloves, most vegetable infusions may be pre- 
served without either fermenting or becom- 
ing mouldy with very little spirit (one-ninth 
or one-tenth). 

39. Maceration. When an infusion is 
made vsdthout the aid of heat it is termed 
maceration. This takes a much longer time 
than an infusion, properly so called ; it rarely 
requires less than 7 days, sometimes several 
weeks. Those substances to which heat 
would be injurious, or which are easily solu- 
ble, are treated in this way. In many distil- 
lations this method is made use of to soften 
the substances before putting into the stUl ; 
and to facilitate the extraction of their odor- 
ous principle. 



PREFAB Alio XS. 



19 



Tinctures, when prepared \)j maceration, ' into the instmmeut, being very careful not to 
should be frequently shaken during the pro- have the powder too coarse or loosely pressed, 
cess, which should" be conducted in glass or it will permit the liquid to pass too quickly; 
vessels well stopped. I and on the other hand it should not be too 

40. Digestion is a prolonged infusion \ fine and compact, or it may offer an unneces- 
which is usually conducted at a medium tem- ' sary resistance. Should the liquor flow too 
perature between that required for an infusion, rapidly, return it to the instrument, and close 
properly so called, and that of a maceration, it beneath for a time, and thus permit the 



Its object is usually to impregnate alcohol 
with the principles of a substance which 
would be but slowly extracted without the 
aid of a certain amount of heat, such as that 
of the sun or of hot ashes. 

Mixing together two or more liquors and 
allowing them to stand for some days, is also 
called digestion. 

Maceration and digestion are usually per- 
formed in vessels of stoneware or glass, which 
are placed on the sand-bath, in cases where a 
regular and uniform heat is required. 

Whatever may be the form or nature of the 
vessels employed, care must be taken not to 



finer parts of the powder to subside, and cause 
a slower percolation. 

The method of percolation is now preferred 
by all who have made sufficient trial of it to 
apply it correctly. 

The first portion of liquid obtained by the 
method of displacement is always in a state 
of high concentration. In general it is a 
sunple solution of the soluble" ingredients of 
the crude drug in the fluid employed. But 
sometimes the solvent, if compound, is re- 
solved into its compound parts, and the fluid 
which passes through it at any given time is 
onlv one of these, holdins: in solution onlv the 



fill them full, also to cover those which are most soluble parts of the drag. 
to be placed on the sand-bath with a damp I Thus, if diluted alcohol be poured over 
piece of parchment tightly tied round the top, | powder of myrrh, in the cylinder of the per- 
with many pin holes pricked in it. If this I colator, the fluid which first drops into the 
latter precaution be neglected, the increased receiver is a solution of an oily consistence 
volume produced by the'heat and also the ex- i chiefly composed of resia and volatile oil dis- 
pansion of the an* may burst it. Moreover, | solved ia alcohol. In like manner when the 
the process is never so well conducted in a powder of gall-nuts is treated in the same 
vessel that is too full. j way by hydrated sulphmic ether, two layers 

41. To obtain Tinctures by Displace- of fluid are obtained, one of which is a highly 
ment or Percolation. The kmd of filtra- ; concentrated solution of tannin in the water 
tion commonly called the process of disjjkice- ! of the ether, and the other a weak solution of 
ment, for extracting the essence from roots, the same principle in pm-e ether. In all 
herbs, seeds, barks, &c., is effected in the ! cases, therefore, in which it is not otherwise 
following manner : It is first necessary that | directed, it is absolutely necessary to agitate 
the articles to be acted upon should be ground , the several portions of the liquid obtained by 
in a drug miU. to the condition of a coarse i percolation together, in order to insure a pro- 
powder ; then weigh each powder by itself, j duct of uniform strength, or activity. 
and mix them together in the proportions I To illustrate the operation of displacement, 
demanded bv the'recipe, and moisten the 



mass thoroughly with alcohol, allowing it to 
macerate for 12 hom's in a vessel well covered. 
ifext is required a hollow instrument of 
cylindrical form, having one end shaped liked 
a"^ funnel, so that it can be inserted in the neck 
of a glass bottle, and having inside, near the 
lower end, a partition pierced with numerous 
small holes, like the strainer of a French 
coffee-pot, which is a simple coffee percolator; 
in the absence of such a partition, soft cotton, 
or any insoluble substance, may be substituted, 
and being placed in the inside at the lower 
end of the instrument, will answer as well as 
the strainer. This instrument is called a 
percolator. Boullay's filter or percolator is 
usually employed. "Macerate the ingredients 
to be acted upon, for the time named — intro- 
duce them into the percolator, and slightly 
press them upon the partition. Any portion 
of the liquid used in the maceration, not ab- 
sorbed by the powder, should be poured upon 
the mass in the instrument, and allowed to 
percolate. Xow gradually pour into the per- 
colator sufficient of the alcohol, or other 
hquid to be filtered, to drive before it, or dis- 
place, the hqjiid contained in the mass; the 
portion introduced must in like manner be 
displaced by another portion ; and so on, till 
the required quantity of filtered liquor is ob- 
tained. This extract is called a tincture. In 
case the liquor which first passes through 
should be thick and turbid, again introduce it 



and describe an excellent 
percolator for making per- 
fume tinctures, we will sup- 
pose that benzoin is under 
treatment. The apparatus 
made wholly of glass, hav- 
ing been arranged as shown 
by the engraving, and a plug 
of raw cotton dropped loose- 

dlj at h, the benzoin in coarse 
powder is then poured into 
the tube portion. A, until it 

C reaches the line, c. Alco- 
hol (95 per cent.) is next 
added, until it rises to the 
line, d. As soon as the first 
portion sinks into the ben- 
zoin, a fi'esh addition must 
be made ; and thus the suc- 
jj "^gW^" ceeding relays go on dis- 
placing those which pre- 
ceded them without mingling 
with them. Each stratum 
becomes more and more 
charged with soluble matter 
as it descends; and when 
it reaches the bottom of the 

i mass, under the pressure of 

' the superincumbent liquor, 

it runs out saturated. TVTien, 

by successive additions of 

fresh alcohol, the benzoin 

under treatment has become exhausted, the 



B 



20 



PBEPABATIONS. 



liquid pasocS tiirongli the mass, and falls 
into the receiver, B, as tasteless and colorless 
as when first poured in. This indicates the 
completion of the process. 

As atmospheric pressm-e is an important 
element in the operation, it will not answer 
to shut it off by closing the top of the dis- 
placer, without making some compensating 
arrangement; and, therefore, a communica- 
tion between the upper and lower vessels is 
'established by means of a latent-tube arrange- 
ment, D. In this manner the apparatus is 
kept close, and the evaporation of alcohol 
prevented, while the pressm-e produced is dis- 
tributed throughout the apparatus, and ren- 
dered uniform. As the runnings are clear, 
filtration is rarely necessary. The quantity of 
alcohol thus consumed need not be more than 
sufficient to exhaust the material; and the 
resulting tincture must therefore be diluted to 
the proper strength. For perfumes, deodorized 
alcohol must always be used. 

The method of displacement has the advan- 
tage of expedition, economy, and yielding pro- 
ducts possessing uniformity of strength ; but it 
requires considerable experience to adapt it to 
all substances. The art rests in properly 
packing the ingredients in the cylinder, some 
substances requiring considerable pressure to 
be used, while others, when even lightly 
packed, scarcely permit the fluid to pass 
through them. An excellent plan applicable 
to all substances, but especially those of a 
glutinous or mucilaginous nature, is to mix 
the powder with an eclual bulk of well- washed 
sand, before rubbing it up with the menstruum. 
The coarseness of the powder must also be at- 
tended to. Substances that readily become 
soft and pappy when wetted by the menstruum, 
should not be used so fine as those tha4i are 
more woody and fibrous. The method of 
displacement answers well for the preparation 
of all tinctures that are not of a resinous 
nature, and for most infusions of woody and 
fibrous substances, as roots, woods, barks, 
leaves, seeds, insects, &c. It is especially 
adapted for the preparation of concentrated 
infusions and essences, as they may thus be 
obtained of any requii-ed strength, without 
loss, or requiring concentration by heat, 
which is so destructive to their virtues. 

When ordinary tinctures are made in large 
quantities, displacement is never likely to su- 
persede maceration, on account of any prac- 
tical advantages it may possess. If the pre- 
scribed directions be duly attended to, the pro- 
cess of maceration is unexceptionable. The 
process is more simple than the other; the 
mode of operating more uniform; it is, in fact, 
always the same ; it requires less of skiU and 
dexterity in conducting it; it requires less 
constant attention during its progress, which, 
in operating on large quantities, is a considera- 
tion ; and finally, the apparatus required is less 
complicated. When, however, only small 
quantities of tincture are to be made at a time, 
and kept in stock, the adoption of the process 
of displacement will often be found conve- 
nient and advantageous. It offers the means 
of making a tincture in two or three hours, 
which, by the other process, would require as 
many weeks. {See No. 4572.) 

42. Proportion of Ingredients used 
for making Tinctures. The following are 



the proportions usually employed for the most 
important perfume tinctures : 

Tincture. Troy. Alcohol. 

Vanilla Vanilla bean, rasped 1 lb 8 pts. 

Musk Grain musk 2 drachms.8 pts. 

Frangipani Powder a la f rangipani . 1 lb 6 pts. 

Rhodium Rhodium-wood, rasped.l lb 2 qts. 

Civet Civet, orris-root 3^ oz 2 qts. 

Tonquin Tonka bean 1 lb 8 pts. 

Orris Orris-root 7 pts 8 pts, 

Alkanet— red coL.Alkanet >^oz 1 qt. 

Turmeric— yellow. Turmeric Jl oz 1 qt. 

43. To Prepare Emulsions. These 
are milky liquids, formed by the mechanical 
admixture of oil, balsam, or resin, with water, 
by means of some other substance that 
possesses the property of combining with 
l3oth. There are numerous preparations of 
the kind in pharmacy and medicine, which, 
in the later pharmacopoeias, have received 
the name of "mixtures," There are also 
several emulsions employed as cosmetics, 
either alone, or as vehicles for other ingre- 
dients. The common name of emulsions is 
"milk,'' but the teiTa is often incorrectly 
extended to opaque white liquids of an en. 
tirely distinct character. 

The successful prej^aration of emulsions is 
a matter requiring some little skill and care. 
In some instances, as with the almond, the 
two substances necessary to produce a perfect 
emulsion are presented by nature, ready to 
our hand, in the same vegetable production ; 
nothing more is necessary than to reduce it with 
the pestle, and tritm-ate it with water, gradu- 
ally added. In other cases, and which are 
far the more numerous, we have to operate 
on oily or resinous ingredients in their com- 
mon form. These we are enabled to suspend 
in water, or mechanically combine with it, by 
the intervention of thick mucilage, almonds, 
or yolk of egg. It is found that 1 drachnj 
(60 grs.) of the first — made with equal parts 
of good gum-arahic and water (powdered 
gum is sometimes used instead of mucilage) — 
1 ounce of the second, (usually about 26 in 
number), and one of the last, will form 2 
drachms of oil or resinous matter into an 
emulsion with about 1 fluid ounce of 
water, gradually added ; and siich an emul- 
sion, if properly made, will then, in most in- 
stances, bear further dilution with water. 
(The yolk of an ordinary- sized hen's egg is re- 
ferred to. It should be remembered, that 
emulsions formed with yolk of Qg^g will not 
keep long, owing to the putrescible nature 
of the latter.) Of these, mucilage is the 
medium most commonly employed. Ac- 
cording to Montgomery, for conversion into 
permanent emulsions, " oils require about 
three-fourths their weight ; balsams and 
spermaceti, equal parts; resins, twice their 
weight; and musk and ambergris 5 times 
its weight." In some cases instead of the 
above substances, a Httle liquor of potassa 
is employed, when a saponaceous emulsion 
is formed, which differs considerably in its 
properties from an emulsion of the same 
ingredients produced by means of a bland 
medium. 

In making an emulsion, the gum, or other 
medium employed, should be first put into 
the mortar, and rendered thoroughly homo- 
geneous with the pestle. If almonds are 
used, they should be treated as noticed under 



PBEPAEATIONS. 



21 



" almond-paste " {see No. 1123), a few drops 
of water being added to prevent '^ oiling/' and 
to reduce them to a smooth, soft paste. The 
oil or resinous matter may then be gradually 
added and rubbed in, carefully observing not 
to add it more quickly than it can be subdued 
by the pestle ; and if, during this part of the 
manipulation, the mixture should begin to 
exhibit a "breaking'' or "curdling" appearance 
at the ed^es, a few drops of water must be 
immediately incorporated with it, before add- 
ing the remainder of the oil. If this be not 
done, the emulsive mixture in the mortar 
will, in general, suddenly lose its tenacious 
consistence, and the process will fail. After 
the who'le of the oil, balsam, or resinous 
matter is thoroughly incorporated, the water 
or other aqueous vehicle intended to form the 
bidk of the emulsion, should be added gradu- 
ally and with care, each portion being per- 
fectly blended with the liquid mass in the 
mortar, by patient trituration, before adding 
the next. If any alcohohc liquid is employed, 
it should be added at the very end of the pro- 
cess, and then only very gradually, as other- 
wise it will cause the separation of the in- 
gredients. 

It must be observed that soluble salts, 
spirit, acids, and astringents, are, as a rule, 
incompatible with the emulsive form. If 
saline matter must be introduced, it should 
only be added in a very minute quantity, and 
in the state of solution, to the ready-formed 
emulsion; and in this case emulsion of al- 
monds is the most suitable vehicle. {See No. 
1125.) Spirits and acids act by precipitating 
the mucilaginous matter, or yolk. Even the 
addition of a very little lemon juice, or of a 
portion of slightly acescent sjrrup, wiU often 
entu'ely destroy an emulsion. This inevitably 
occurs with emulsions made with liquor of 
potassa, or other alkaline medium, owing to 
the absolute incompatibility of acids and 
alkalies in the same liquid. 

It is found that volatile oils are more readily 
made into emulsions if mixed with an equal 
v>>lume of some simple fixed oil, as that of 
the almond or oHve, before proceeding to 
operate on them. 

All emulsions should be well shaken before 
use. ( Cooley. ) 

44. To Prepare Extracts. The pro- 
cess of obtaining an extract of a substance 
involves two distinct operations: Fhst, the 
production of a solution of the soluble por- 
tion of the substance operated on; and next, 
the redaction of this solution to a proper 
consistence by evaporation. The substance 
is first, where practicable, reduced to coarse 
powder by bruising, or sliced with a knife, so 
that every portion may be fully exposed to 
the action of the solvent. Refractory substan- 
ces are first softened by the solvent and then 
Bliced. Other substances whose nature does 
not require reducing, are used without prepa- 
ration. 

Dififerent fluids are used for solvents, as 
best adapted to the solubihty of the substance 
under treatment. Some bodies, such as fresh 
vegetables, yield their juice by expression 
alone. In the preparation of aqueous extracts, 
the ingredients are treated with rain or dis- 
tilled water, until all the soluble matter that 
is desired to obtain from them is dissolved. 



This is effected by either maceration, percola- 
tion, infusion, or decoction, as circumstances 
require: the solution thus obtained is poured 
off and the remaining soluble matter eithei 
pressed or washed out, and added to the solu- 
tion; it is next allowed time to settle, then 
decanted, and strained or filtered; and if this 
fails to render the Kquid clear, it is clarified 
by white of egg, and filtered; Canton flannel, 
first soaked in water, being generally em- 
ployed for this pm-pose. When water acid- 
ulated with acetic acid is employed, vegetable 
substances are usually macerated in it in the 
cold, or the dilute acid is sprinkled over the 
bruised plant, if fresh, and the juice expressed 
by strong pressure. 

When the principles to be extracted are in- 
soluble, or oiily slightly soluble, in water, 
alcohol is employed, either in the fomi of rec- 
tified spirit, proof spirit, or diluted. These 
produce alcoholic or spirituous extracts; and 
are generally obtained by eithev maceration ot 
digestion. 

Ether is well adapted for obtaining extracts 
from bodies whose principles consist of vola- 
tile oils or resin, on accoimt of its strong 
affinity for those substances. Such are 
termed ethereal extracts. In nearly all cases, 
filtration is necessary to insiu'e a pure extract. 

The means usually employed for evapora- 
ting an aqueous solution, are rapid boiling 
over a fire until the extract is thick enough 
to offer some risk of burning, and the evapo- 
ration finished ever a water bath or in shal- 
low vessels at a moderate heat, the further 
escape of vapor being promoted by contiuu- 
ous stu-ring with a wooden spoon or stick. It 
is not always advisable to heat a solution to 
the boiling point, but if boiling is resorted to, 
it cannot be done too rapidly, as the heat can- 
not rise above its boiling point, and rapid 
ebiiUition hastens evaporation. The fluid must 
never be stirred while ebullition is going on. 

Two fundamental rules are: — to conduct 
evaporation at as low a temperature as is 
consistent with other objects; and, — to ex- 
clude atmospheric air; or, at least, to expose 
the liquid to its action for as short a time as 
possible, as most solutions lose more or less 
of their active principles by heat and exposiu'e. 
Solutions which vrill not bear boiling without 
loss of strength are evaporated in a vacuum, 
either in a closed still, or under the receiver 
of an air pump, in which a vessel is placed 
containing strong sulphmic acid; this has a 
powerful affinity for water and absorbs its va- 
por as quickly as it comes in contact with it. 

A good plan for evaporation, though slow, 
is to place the liquid in a broad shallow vessel;, 
exposed in a stove or drying room to a tem- 
perature of about 100° Fahr., allowing free ac- 
cess for the ah. The extracts thus evaporated 
are said to be lighter in color and more trans- 
parent than by most other ways. 

The method for evaporating an alcoholic or 
an ethereal solution is substantially the same 
as that pursued with an aqueous solution; ex- 
cept that, as a matter of economy, the vapor 
may be led ofi" and condensed again. 

A good extract should be free from grit, and 
wholly soluble in 20 parts of the solvent usGv 
for making the extract, forming a nearly clear 
solution; it should be of a proper consistence 
and of uniform texture and color, smooth and 



33 



SPECIFIC GEAVITY. 



glossy in appearance; this latter can only be 
arrived at by assiduous and laborious stirring 
as the extract thickens; and may be promoted 
by adding 3 or 4 per cent, each of olive oil 
and gum arable, with 1 or 2 per cent, of spirit 
of wine. Extracts should be put iato pots as 
soon as made, securely tied down with blad- 
der, and kept in a dry place. Any tendency 
to become mouldy may be prevented by add- 
ing, the last thing before removing from 
the evaporating pan, a few drops of oil of 
cloves, or a still less quantity of creosote, dis- 
solved in a little alcohol; or by moistening 
with oil of cloves or creosote, the inside of the 
bladder used for covering the pots. 

45. To obtain Vegetable Juices by 
Expression. The juices of plants are ob- 
tained by bruising the fresh leaves in a mar- 
ble mortar, or in a mill, and expressing the 
juice which, after defecation for some hours 
in a cool situation, is either filtered through 
paper, or strained after coagulating its albu- 
ninous matter by heat. Some plants require 
the addition of % its quantity of water before 
pressing. The expression of the juice of lem- 
ons, oranges, quinces, &c., is facilitated by 
previously mixing the pulp with clean chop- 
ped straw. Mulberries, &c., after being 
crushed between the hands, are left 3 or 4 
days to undergo a slight fermentation, before 
pressing. A very powerful screw press is re- 
quired for this purpose. The preservation 
of the juices of the narcotic plants, and some 
other vegetables, has lately assumed consid- 
erable interest, from these preparations having 
been proposed as substitutes for the common 
tinctm-es. It appears that the juice of young 
plants just coming into flower, yields only f 
the amount of extract which may be obtained 
from the same quantity of juice expressed 
from the matm-ed plant, or when the flowers 
are fuUy blown; and the strength of the pro- 
duct is also inferior. The leaves alone should 
be preferably employed, and should be exclu- 
sively of the second year's growth, when the 
plants are biennials. 

Bruise the leaves in a marble mortar (on 
the large scale, in a mill), and submit them 
to the action of a powerful press; allow the 
juice to remain for 24 hours in a cold place, 
then decant the clear portion, add J part by 
measure of spirit (90 per cent. ), agitate, and 
in 24 hours again decant the clear, and filter 
it through paper. Keeps well under ordinary 
chcumstances. 

The method dhected by the Faris Codex is 
as follows: to the fresh leaves, bruised in a 
marble mortar, is added an equal weight of 
rectified spirit, and after maceration for 15 
days, the whole is pressed, and the resulting 
tinctm-e filtered. 

The commencing dose of the narcotic juices 
is about 5 drops. In the above manner are 
prepared the prese7'ved juices of aconite, bel- 
ladonna, colchicum (corms), hemlocJc, hen- 
bane, foxglove, lactuca virosa, taraxacum, &c. 

46. To Extract Essential Oil from 
"Wood, Barks, Roots, Herbs etc. Take 
balm, mint, sage, or any other herb, &c., put 
into a bottle, and pour upon it a spoonful of 
ether; keep in a cool place a few hours, and 
then fill the bottle with cold water; the es- 
sential oil will swim on the surface, and may 
be easily separated. 



Opecific Gravity is the density 

K^ of the matter of which any body is com- 
posed, compared with the density of another 
body, assumed as the standard, or 1.000. 
This standard is pure distilled water for 
liquids and solids, and atmospheric air for 
gaseous bodies and vapors. In the United 
States and England the specific gravity, unless 
when otherwise expressed, is always taken at 
60° F.; but in France at 32°, or the tempera- 
ture of melting ice. In most cases, however, 
it is sufficient merely to note the temperature, 
and to apply a correction, depending on the 
known density of water or air, at the different 
degrees of the thermometric scale. 

The above plan has been adopted, because 
the weight of an equal hidh of difierent sub- 
stances varies greatly. Thus, as gold is 19 
and silver 10 times heavier than water, those 
numbers, 19 and 10, are said to represent the 
specific gravity of gold and silver. The 
heaviest of all known substances is the very 
hard metal used for making points to the so- 
called diamond gold pens. It is caUed iri- 
dium ; its specific gravity is 23. if ext comes 
platinum, 21 ; gold, 19 ; mercury, 13.5 ; lead, 
11.3; silver, 10; copper, 8; non, 7; zinc, 6; 
different kinds of stones, from 4 to 1 ; alumi- 
num, 2.5. Flax and aU woody fibres have a 
specific gravity of 1.4, and are thus heavier 
than water, but wood wiU float or sink ac- 
cording to the number of its pores into which 
the water does not penetrate. So ebony and 
many kinds of hard wood sink, pine and all 
kinds of soft wood float. Cork is the lightest 
wood, its specific gravity being only 0.24, less 
than one-quarter that of water. Alcohol is 
about three-quarters the weight of water, and 
as the strength of liquor depends on the 
amount of alcohol it contains, this strength is 
simply found out by its specific gravity indi- 
cated by the more or less floating of a little in- 
strument called a hydrometer, the weaker 
hquid being little lighter than water has the 
strongest buoyant power; solutions of dif- 
ferent salts, sugar, etc., being heavier than 
water, have a stronger buoyant power; ves- 
sels therefore will draw less water in the sea 
than in fresh water, and it is more difficult to 
swim in the latter than in the sea. The 
hghtest of all liquids has a specific gravity of 
0.6 ; it is caUed chimogene, and is made frOm 
petroleum; it is exceedingly volatile and 
combustible; in fact, it is a liquefied gas. 
Carbonic acid gas or choke damp is about 500 
times lighter than water ; common air, 800 ; 
street gas about 2,000, and pure hydrogen, 
the hghtest of all substances, 12,000 times. 
The heaviest substance has thus 23x12,000 
or more than a quarter of a million times 
more weight than an equal bulk of the light- 
est ; and the substance of which comets con- 
sist, has by astronomers been proved to be 
even several thousand times lighter than 
hydrogen gas. 

48. To find the Specific Gravity of a 
Substance heavier or hghter than Wa- 
ter. In order to ascertain the specific gravity 
of a body heavier than water, the following 
method is adopted. First weigh it in air, then 
weigh it immersed in water. The difference 
between these two weights will be its loss of 
weight in water, or, in other words, the weight 
of the water displaced. Then divide the weight 



ALCOHOLMETBY. 



23 



in air by its lo.ss in water, and the result is 
the specific gravity. 
Thus, suppose a substance weighs, 
12 pounds in air, 
and 10 pounds in water. 

Its loss is 2 pounds in water. 

Divide 12 (weight in air) by 2 (loss in 
water), and the result is its specific gravity, 6. — 
That is, the substance is, tulh for 'bulk, 6 
times as heavy as water. 

If the substance will not sink in water, 
then weight must be added to make it just 
sink below the surface. This extra weight, 
added to the weight in air, show its loss in 
water. Thus, if a substance weighs 8 pounds 
in air, but requires 2 pounds to be added to 
submerge it in water, its loss of weight in 
water is 2 added to 8=10 pounds. 

Proceeding as before, we divide its weight 
in air, 8, by its loss in water, 10 and we have 
it specific gravity ^=.8. 

49. To find the Specific Gravity of a 
Liquid or a Gas. Weigh it in a specific 
gravity bottle, glass flask, or other vessel of 
known capacity ; and dividing that weight by 
the weight of the same bulk of water, the 
quotient is, as before, the specific gravity. 

60. To find the Specific Gravity of a 
Solid Body Soluble in Water. Take its 
specific gravity in regard to some liquid which 
does not dissolve it, and multiply^ by the 
specific gravity of the liquid. Thus, a piece 
of sugar, whose weight is 400 grains, is found 
to lose 217.5 grains if weighed when im- 
mersed in oil of turpentine ; this would make 
its specific gravity, as compared with oil of 
turpentine, -^07^=1.84. The specific gravity 
of the turpentiue is .87; then, 1. 84 X. 87 =1.6, 
the real specific gravity of the sugar. 

61. To find the Specific Gravity of a 
Body in Powder Insoluble in Water. 
Introduce it into a bottle whose capacity is 
known ; fill the bottle with pm-e water at 60°. 
It will hold as much less water as is equal to 
the bulk of the powder, and the weight of the 
powder in air divided by this difference will 
give the specific gravity. Thus, supposing 
the bottle to hold 1000 grains of water, 100 
grains of emery are introduced, and the bottle 
filled up with water. If no water were dis- 
placed the two should weigh 1100 grains; they 
really weigh 1070 ; the difierence, 30 grains, is 
the weight of water displaced; 100-^30=3.333, 
specific gravity of the emery. 

62. To Determine the Weight of a 
Body from its Specific Gravity. A cubic 
foot of water weighs 1000 ounces ; hence, to 
determine the weight of a given bulk of any 
body the specific gravity of which is known, 
multiply the cubic content in feet by 1000, 
and this by the specific gravity, andHhe pro- 
duct will be the weight in ounces avondupuis. 



A ICOholmetry. Thepercent- 
-/!"V-age of absolute alcohol ia any spi- 
rituous liquid may be given either by vol- 
ume or weight, but as liquors are sold by 
measm-e, not weight, it is generally preferred 
to know the percentage by volume. The 
per cent, of weight remains the same in all 
temperatures, but the per cent, by volume 



varies with the temperature or heat of the 
liquid. Many instruments have been intro- 
duced to determine the quantity of absolute 
alcohol contained in any spirituous liquors,. 
and these are known as hydrometers, or alco- 
liolmeters. Hydrometers made by different 
inventors have come into use in difierent 
countries; thus the hydj'ometer made by 
Tralles has been adopted by the governments 
of the United States and Prussia ; that madcr 
by Gray Lussac has been legally sanctioned iu 
France and Sweden ; while that invented by 
Sikes has been approved and made the excise 
standard in Grreat Britain. 

64. Tralles' Hydrometer. TraUes' hy- 
drometer is the instrument used by our 
government to ascertain the strength of im- 
ported liquors, and is made of glass. Tralles 
has adopted as the standard of comparison 
pm-e or absolute alcohol in volume at the 
temperature of 60° Fah., the strength of which 
he expresses by a scale divided iato 100 de- 
grees or parts, each of which represents tfs 
part of alcohol. "When floated in any spirituous 
liquor at a temperatm-e of 60° Fah., it im^ 
mediately iadicates the strength. "For in- 
stance, if in a brandy at that temperature it 
sinks to 65, it shows that 65 parts of the 
Uquor is absolute alcohol, and 35 parts water . 
should it sink to 90, it indicates that th^ 
liquor is 90 parts or per cent, strong, and so on. 

An increase of heat causes liquids to ex- 
pand io. volume, and a decrease produces con- 
traction; therefore spirits over the normal 
temperature of 60° Fah. appear stronger than 
they reaUy are, and below 60° they are really 
stronger than they appear to be. 

It is therefore evident that the degrees of 
percentage of this hydrometer are oifiy cor- 
rect when the spirit under trial has the nor- 
mal temperature of 60° Fah. When the 
temperature varies fi-om 60°, the percentagd^ 
can only be ascertained by a long and tedious 
calculation. To avoid this Mr. Tralles has 
constructed a simple table by which the real 
percentage of alcohol is found in liquids of 
different temperatures fi:om the results ex- 
hibited by the instrument. (See No. 55.) 
The horizontal fine at the top shows t-hc 
various temperatures given by the thermome- 
ter ; the column of figures under 60° shows 
the trtie percentage of strength at the normal 
or standard temperature of 60° ; the figures 
under the other degrees of temperature show 
the ohserved or apparent degrees of strength 
as indicated by the hydrometers. 

As an example of the simple manner by 
which this table may be used, we wiU suppose 
that the temperature of the spirits to be tested 
is at 75°, Fah., and that the hydrometer sinks 
to 53° on the scale ; this would be the observed 
or apparent degree or percentage of strength. 
iSTow to find the real percentage of strength 
at 60°, we turn to the table and find the up- 
right or vertical column of figures headed 
75°, we then run down the figures until we 
arrive at 53.0; having ascertained this, we 
then trace the horizontal line to the left or 
right to the outside column headed 60°, and 
at the point when the horizontal line running 
from 53.0 meets the column headed 60°, will 
be found the number 50. TVe thus ascertain 
that a spirit at 75° having an observed strength 
of 53 has only a real percentage of 50 at the 



ALCOROLMETEY. 



normal or established temperatui-e of GC^. 
Suppose that another sample of brandy, in- 
stead of being at 75° is at 50'^, and the instru- 
ment still sinks to 53. In the same way we 
select the column headed 50°, and run down 
the figures until we find 53.0, then by tracing 
the horizontal line until we arrive at the out- 
side column headed 60° (either the first or 
last column), we find the number 55, which is 



the true percentage of the brandy at 60° Fah. 

Again, if an alcoholic liquid at a tempera- 
ture of 30° be found to contain 23,5 per cent, 
by volume, by reference to the table 30 will 
be found to express its actual strength at 60"^ 
Pah. 

"We might multiply examples, but the above 
are sufficient to show the manner by which 
the table may be worked. 



55. Table to find the true percentage of Absolute Alcohol ty volume in a liquid 
at QO'^ from the observed ;percentage indicated &^/ a Glass Hydrometer at any other 
temperature. 



60° 



30° 


35° 


40° 


45° 


50° 


55° 


65° 


70° 


75° 


80° 


85° 


60° 


—0.2 


—0.4 


—0.4 


—0.5 


—0.4 


—0.2 


+0.2 


+0.6 


+1.0 


+1.4 


+1.9 





5 


-{-4.6 


+4.5 


+4.5 


+4.5 


+4.6 


+4.8 


5.3 


5.8 


6.2 


6.7 


7.3 


5 


10 


9.1 


9.0 


9.1 


9.2 


9.3 


9.7 


10.4 


11.0 


11.6 


12.3 


13.0 


10 


15 


13.0 


13.1 


13.3 


13.5 


13.9 


14.5 


15.6 


16.3 


17.1 


18.0 


19.0 


15 


20 


16.5 


16.9 


17.4 


17-8 


18.5 


19.2 


20.8 


21.8 


22.8 


23.8 


24.9 


20 


25 


19.9 


20.6 


21.4 


22.2 


23.0 


24.1 


25.9 


27.0 


28.2 


29.4 


30.5 


25 


30 


23.5 


24.5 


25.7 


26.6 


27.7 


28.8 


31.1 


32.2 


33.4 


34.5 


35.7 


30 


35 


28.0 


29.2 


30.4 


31.6 


32.7 


33.8 


36.2 


37.3 


38.4 


39.5 


40.6 


35 


40 


33.0 


34.2 


35.4 


36.7 


37.8 


39.0 


41.1 


42.2 


43.3 


44.3 


45.4 


40 


45 


38.4 


39.6 


40.7 


41.8 


42.9 


43.9 


46.1 


47.1 


48.2 


49.2 


50.3 


45 


50 


43.7 


44.7 


45.8 


46.9 


47.9 


49.0 


51.0 


52.0 


53.0 


54.0 


55.1 


50 


55 


49.0 


50.0 


51.0 


52.0 


53.0 


54.0 


54.9 


56.9 


57.9 


58.9 


59.9 


55 


60 


54.2 


55.2 


56.2 


57.1 


58.1 


59.0 


60.9 


61.9 


62.9 


63.8 


64.9 


60 


65 


59.4 


60.3 


61.2 


62.2 


63.1 


64.0 


65.9 


66.8 


67.7 


68.6 


69.6 


65 


70 


64.6 


65.5 


66.4 


67.3 


68.2 


69.1 


70.8 


71.7 


72.6 


73.5 


74.5 


70 


75 


69.8 


70.7 


71.5 


72.4 


73.3 


74.2 


75.8 


76.7 


77.6 


78.4 


79.3 


75 


80 


75.0 


75.8 


76.6 


77.5 


78.4 


79.2 


80.8 


81.7 


82.4 


83.2 


84.1 


80 


85 


80.3 


81.1 


81.8 


82-6 


83.5 


84.3 


85.7 


86.5 


87.3 


88.0 


88.8 


85 


90 


85.6 


86.4 


87.1 


87.9 


88.6 


89.3 


90.7 


91.4 


92.0 


92.7 


93.4 


90 



The following table gives the richness or 
the per cent, of alcohol by volume, in reference 
to the volume of the liquid at the temperature 



when tested ; it therefore requires that the 
liquor should be tested exactly at the same 
temperatm'e at which it was measured. 



66. Table to find the true percentage of Absolute Alcohol in a liquid of any 
temperature from the observed percentage indicated hy the Glass Hydrometer at the 
same temperature. 



True per ct. 






Observed per 


cent, indicated by the Glass Hydrometer. 






by Volume. 


30° 


35° 


40° 


45° 


50° 


55° 


65° 


70° 


75° 


80° 


85° 





—0.2 


—0.4 


—0.4 


—0.5 


—0.4 


—0.2 


+0.2 


+0.6 


+1.0 


+1.4 


+1.9 


5 


+4.6 


+4.5 


+4.5 


+4.5 


+4.6 


+4.8 


5.3 


5.8 


6.2 


6.7 


7.3 


10 


9.1 


9.0 


9.1 


9.2 


9.3 


9.7 


10.4 


11.0 


11.6 


12.3 


13.0 


15 


13.0 


13.1 


13.3 


13.6 


14.1 


14.5 


15.6 


16.3 


17.1 


18.0 


19.0 


20 


16.5 


16.9 


17.4 


17.9 


18.5 


19.2 


20.8 


21.8 


22.9 


23.9 


25.0 


25 


19.8 


20.5 


21.3 


22.2 


23.0 


24.1 


25.9 


27.1 


28.3 


29.5 


30.7 


30 


23.3 


24.3 


25.5 


26.5 


27.6 


28.8 


31.2 


32.3 


33.5 


34.6 


35.9 


35 


27.7 


28.9 


30.2 


31.4 


32.6 


33.8 


36.3 


37.5 


38.6 


39.7 


40.9 


40 


32.5 


33.8 


35.1 


36.5 


37.7 


38.9 


41.2 


42.4 


43.5 


44.6 


45.8 


45 


37.8 


39.1 


40.3 


41.5 


42.7 


43.8 


46.2 


47.3 


48.5 


49.6 


50.8 


50 


43.1 


44.2 


45.4 


46.6 


47.7 


48.9 


51.1 


52.2 


53.4 


54.5 


55.6 


55 


48.3 


49.4 


50.5 


51.6 


52.8 


53.9 


56.1 


57.2 


58.3 


59.4 


60.5 


60 


53.4 


54.5 


55.6 


56.7 


57.8 


58.9 


61.1 


62.2 


63.3 


64.4 


65.5 


65 


58.4 


59.5 


60.6 


61.7 


62.8 


63.9 


66.0 


67.1 


68.2 


69.3 


70.4 


70 


63.5 


64.6 


65.7 


66.8 


67.9 


69.0 


71.0 


72.1 


73.2 


74.3 


75.4 


75 


68.6 


69.7 


70.7 


71.8 


72-9 


74.0 


76.0 


77.1 


78.2 


79.2 


80.3 


80 


73.7 


74.8 


75.8 


76.9 


78.0 


79.0 


81.0 


82.1 


83.1 


84.1 


85.2 


85 


78.8 


79.8 


80.9 


81.9 


83.0 


84.0 


86.0 


87.0 


88.0 


89.0 


90.0 


90 


84.0 


85.1 


86.1 


87.1 


88.1 


89.1 


91.0 


91.9 


92.8 


93.7 


94.6 



ALCOHOLMETBY. 



25 



Thus, if the Hydrometer indicated 59.4 per 
cent, in a liquid at 80° Fah., the table in ^o. 
57 would give its true percentage (richness) 
;o 55 per cent.; that is, 100 volumes of the 
Uquid at 80° contains 55 volumes of alcohol. 
Tralles' Hydrometer gives the per cent, by 
volume only. If it be desired to know the 
per cent, by iceight, it may be ascertained 
from the percentage in volume of the liquid 
at 60° Fah. by table in IS"o. 57. 

57. Table of Comparison between the 
per cent, of Alcohol bij volume at 60° (Tralles') 
and per cent, by weight. 



Percent. 


Per Cent. 


Per Cent. 


per Cent. 


by 


by 


by 1 by 


by 


by 


by 


by 


Vol 


Weigbt. 


Vol 


Weight. 


Weight. 


Volume. 


Weight. 


Volume. 





0. 


55 


47.29 





0. 


55 


63.97 


5 


4.00 


60 


52.20 


5 


6.25 


eo 


68.97 


10 


8.05 


65 


57.25 


10 


12.42 


65 


73.79 


15 


12.15 


70 


62.51 


15 


18.52 


70 


78.40 


20 


16.28 


75 


67.93 


20 


24.57 


75 


82.80 


25 


20.46 


80 


73.59 


25 


30.55 


80 


86.97 


30 


24.69 


85 


79.50 


30 


36.45 


85 


90.88 


35 


28.99 


90 


85.75 


35 


42.25 


90 


94.46 


40 


33.39 


95 


92.46 


40 


47.92 


95 


97.61 


45 


37.90 


100 


100.00 


45 


53.43 


100 


100.00 


50 


42.52 






50 


58,79 







58. Gendar's Hydrometer. Annexed 
we give a comparative view of the scales of 
Tralles and Gendar, the former used by the 
revenue officers of the United States for im- 
ported liquors, and indicating the per cent. 
by volume of alcohol in spirituous liquors, 
and the latter used throughout the whole 
country for domestic liquors, determining the 
percent, above and belowj^roo/. 

This is inserted for the convenient compar- 
ison of the American standards. Tables of 
other areometers reduced td specific gravity 
will be found in I^Tos. 6155. (fee. 

The first column of the table exhibits the 
specific gravities at 60° Fah., for mixtures of 
pure alcohol and water ; — taking water at the 
temperature of its greatest density, about 
39.5° Fah., as 1.0000, and, therefore, having 
at 60° Fah. a specific gravity of 0.9991. Of 
the above mixtures, each 100 gallons or mea- 
sures contain the number of gallons or mea- 
sures of alcohol indicated ia the second col- 
umn (Tralles' hydrometer scale) if measm-ed 
at 60° Fah. 

In the Tralles' hydrometer scale there is no 
reference to proof of any denomination ; and 
in that of G-endar's there is but one proof, 
marked P. on the hydrometer; the others, 
such as 2d, 3d and 4th proofs, were, at all 
times, incorrect and deceptive. The JSTational 
Tax Law, of August 1st, 1862, says that " the 
term proof shall be construed, and is hereby 
leclared to mean that proof of a hquor which 
2on'esponds to 50 degrees of Tralles' hydrom- 
eter at the temperatm-e of 60 degrees Fah." 
Proof spirit is, therefore, by law, of the alco- 
holic strength of 50 per cent, by volume, hav- 
ing a specihc gravity of 0.9335, or a mixture 
of equal quantities of absolute alcohol at the 
specific gravity of 0.793, and distilled water 
at 60° Fah. In other words, proof spirit is 
one-half pure water and half absolute alco- 
hol. 

t" ascertain what strength any liquor above 
^cof by the Gendar hydrometer would be by 
jbo Tralles hydrometer, add 100 to the given 

Eroof if above proof, or deduct, if below proof, 
rem 100 on the (Jendar scale, and divide 



1%. 

0.7939 



8157 






95 



8332 



8631 



8765 



8892 



9013 



9126 



9335 



9646 



9751 



9857 



9919 



85 



80 



75 



70 



65 



60 - 



50 



45 



40 



25 



20 



10 



W9 



70 



by 2. Sayaliquorisat 
40 above P. on the 
Gendar scale,y ou then 
add 100, making 140, 
and divide by 2, which 
will show 70 on the 
Tralles' scale. If below 
P. deduct the proof 
fi-om 100 and divide 
the remainder by 2. 
Say a liquor is 35 be- 
low P., consequently 
you have a remainder 
of 65, and divide the 
65 by 2, which will 
show 32i on Tralles' 
scale. Having ascer- 
tained the degree of 
strength of any liquor 
by volume on Tralles' 
scale above 50 (which 
is proof), multiply the 
degrees by 2, and cut 
off the two right hand 
figures, and it wUl 
show the degrees 
above proof on Gen- 
dar's scale. Thus we 
will suppose the spirit 
to show 70 per cent, 
strength on Tralles' 
scale. TTe therefore 
multiply 70 by 2, 
which gives us 140; 
we now cut off the two 
right hand figures, 
thus, 1.40, and find 
that the liquor is 40 
above proof on Gen- 
dar's scale. 

Or suppose a liquor 
is below 50 on Tralles' 
scale (which is below 
proof) . To find what 
degree it is below on 
Gendar's scale, multi- 
ply the degrees on 
TraUes' scale by 2 and 
add a number suffi 
cient to make 100; thiv 
number required to be 
added will show the 
degree below proof 

59. Tralles' Table 
of Percentag-e of 
Alcohol. When the temperature of the 
spuit is 60° Fah., the first column of the 
table on page 26 gives at once the percent- 
age of alcohol by measure; ivhen the tem- 
perature is below 60° an addition must be 
made of 1 measure per cent, for every 5 
degrees of the thennometer ; and when above 
60° a like quantity must be dedijcted. This 
coiTcction will amount to the fraction y or 
the decimal 2 for every single degree, and is 
very easily made. If the specific gravity 
sought cannot bo found exactly in the table, 
the difference between it and the next greater 
specific gravity in the table must be taken, 
which will give the numerator of a fraction, 
having for its denominator the number found 
in the third column against the next greater 
number just employp'^i. This fraction, added 
to the percentage of alcohol in the first 



20 



10 



10 



20 



40 



90 



26 



ALCOROLMETBY. 



column of the table against the said specific 
gravity, will give the tme percentage sought. 
Thus, if the specific gravity of a spirituous 
liquor is .9605, what is its alcoholic content ? 
Here .9605 is not in the table, but the next 
greater number is .9609; the former must 
therefore be deducted from the latter, and the 



difference (4) put as the numerator of th« 
fraction, having for its denominator the num- 
ber (13) in the column of differences against 
.9609. The fraction -^ so found, added to 
the percentage against .9609 in the firsi 
column, gives 33t% as the true percentage of 
alcohol in the given sample 



Tralles' Table exliiUting the percentage, 


hy volume, of Alcohol, corresponding to 


any given 








specijic gravity. 






Alcohol in 
100 

Measures 


Specific 

Gravity at 

60° F. 


Difference 

of 

Specific 


Alcohol in 

100 
Measures 


Specific 
Gravity at 


Difference 

of 

Specific 


Alcohol in 

100 
Measures 


Specific 

Gravity at 

60° F. 


Difference 

of 

Specific 


of Spirit. 




Gravity. 


of Spirit. 


OU J? . 


Gravity. 


of Spirit. 


Gravity. 


Pure water 


.9991 


00 


34 


-9596 


13 


68 


-8941 


24 


1 


.9976 


15 


35 


-9583 


13 


69 


-8917 


24 


2 


.9961 


15 


36 


-9570 


13 


70 


-8892 


25 


3 


-9947 


14 


37 


-9556 


14 


71 


-8867 


25 


4 


-9933 


14 


38 


-9541 


15 


72 


-8842 


25 


5 


-9919 


14 


39 


-9526 


15 


73 


-8817 


25 


6 


-9906 


13 


40 


-9510 


16 


74 


-8791 


26 


7 


-9893 


13 


41 


-9494 


16 


75 


-8765 


26 


8 


-9881 


12 


42 


-9478 


16 


76 


-8739 


26 


9 


-9869 


12 


43 


-9461 


17 


77 


-8712 


27 


10 


-9857 


12 


44 


-9444 


17 


78 


-8685 


27 


11. 


-9845 


12 


45 


-9427 


17 


79 


-8658 


27 


12 


-9834 


11 


46 


-9409 


18 


80 


-8631 


27 


13 


-9823 


11 


47 


-9391 


18 


81 


-8603 


28 


14 


-9812 


11 


48 


-9373 


18 


82 


-8575 


28 


15 


-9802 


10 


49 


-9354 


19 


83 


-8547 


28 


16 


-9791 


11 


50 


-9335 


19 


84 


-8518 


29 


17 


-9781 


10 


51 


-9315 


20 


85 


-8488 


30 


18 


-9771 


10 


52 


-9295 


20 


86 


-8458 


30 


19 


-9761 


10 


53 


.9275 


20 


87 


-8428 


30 


20 


.9751 


10 


54 


-9254 


21 


88 


-8397 


31 


21 


.9741 


10 


55 


-9234 


20 


89 


-8365 


32 


22 


-9731 


10 


56 


-9213 


21 


90 


-8332 


33 


23 


-9720 


11 


57 


-9192 


21 


91 


-8299 


33 


24 


-9710 


10 


58 


-9170 


22 


92 


-8265 


34 


25 


-9700 


10 


59 


-9148 


22 


93 


-8230 


35 


26 


-9689 


11 


60 


-0126 


22 


94 


-8194 


36 


27 


-9679 


10 


61 


-9104 


22 


95 


-8157 


37 


28 


-9668 


11 


62 


-9082 


22 


96 


-8118 


39 


29 


-9657 


11 


63 


-9059 


23 


97 


-8077 


41 


30 


-9646 


11 


64 


-9036 


23 


98 


-8034 


43 


31 


-9634 


12 


65 


-9013 


23 


99 


-7988 


46 


32 


-9622 


12 


66 


-8989 


24 


Pure ) 
Alcohol ) 


-7939 


49 


33 


-9609 


13 


67 


-8965 


24 



60. Table for reducing tlie strength 
of Alcohol. The following Table given by 
Booth, shows the quantity of water that must 
be added to alcohol of a given strength, in order 
to produce an alcohol of inferior strength. 

The upper horizontal column contains the 



percentage of strength of the stronger alco- 
hol to be diluted; the vertical columns 
below, denote the volumes of water which 
must be added to 100 volumes of it, in order 
to produce a spirit of the strength indicated 
in the left hand column. 























strength in 


90 


85 


80 


75 


70 


65 


60 


55 


50 


per cent. 




















85 


6-56 


















80 


13-79 


6.83 
















75 


21-89 


14.48 


7-20 














70 


31-05 


23-14 


15-35 


7-64 












65 


41-53 


33. a3 


24-66 


16-37 


8.15 










60 


53.65 


44-48 


35.44 


26.47 


17.58 


8-56 








55 


67-87 


57.90 


48.07 


38.32 


28-63 


19-02 


9-47 






50 


84.71 


73-90 


63-04 


52-43 


41-73 


31-25 


20-47 


10-35 




45 


105.34 


93.30 


81.38 


69.54 


57-78 


46-09 


34-46 


22-90 


11-41 


40 


130-80 


117-34 


104-01 


90-76 


77-58 


64-48 


51-43 


38-46 


25-V>5 


35 


163.28 


148.01 


132-88 


117.82 


102-84 


87-93 


73.08 


58-31 


43-59 


30 


206-22 


188-57 


171-05 


153.61 


136-04 


118-94 


101-71 


84-54 


67-45 


25 


266.12 


245-15 


224-30 


203.53 


182.83 


162.21 


141-65 


121-16 


100-73 


20 


355-80 


329-84 


304-01 


278.26 


252-58 


226-98 


201-43 


175-96 


150-55 


15 


505-27 


471- 


436.85 


402-81 


368.83 


334.91 


301-07 


267-29 


233.64 


10 


804.54 


753.65 


702-89 


752.21 


601.60 


551.06 


500.59 


450.19 


399-85 i 



ALCOHOLMETET. 



27' 



Illustration. If we have alcoliol of 70 per 
cent, strength, and desire to reduce its 
strength to 40 per cent. — we look for 40 in 
the left-hand column, and the figures on a 
line with it in the column headed 70, we find 
to be 77.58. This shows that we must add 
77.58, or a trifle over 11^ gallons of water to 
100 gallons of oui* 70 per cent, alcohol, to pro- 
duce a spiiit of 40 per cent, strength. 

6 1 . Bauin6's Hydrometer for Liq uids 

^ Lighter than "Water. In Baume's hydrom- ! 
' eter for liquids lighter than water, the instru- 
ment is poised, so that the of the scale is at ! 
the bottom of the stem, when it is floating in a | 
solution of 1 ounce common salt in 9 ounces wa- 
ter, and the depth to which it sinks in distilled 
water shows the 10th degree; the space be- 
tween these fixed points being equally divided. 

62. Table showing the Specific Grav- 
ity con'esjmnding with the several degrees of 
Baume's Hydro7neter for liquids lighter than 
water. 



Degrees 


Specific 


Degrees 


Specific 


Baxune 


Gravity. 


Baume 


Gravity. 


60O 


-745 


34° 


.859 


59 


.749 


33 


.864 


58 


-753 


32 


.869 


57 


.757 


31 


.874 


56 


.760 


30 


-880 


55 


.764 


29 


-885 


54 


-768 


28 


-890 


53 


.773 


27 


-896 


52 


-777 


26 


-901 


51 


.781 


25 


.907 


50 


.785 


24 


.913 


49 


.789 


23 


-918 


48 


.794 


22 


.924 


47 


.798 


21 


-930 


46 


.802 


20 


-936 


45 


.807 


19 


-942 


44 


.811 


18 


-948 


43 


-816 


17 


-954 


42 


.820 


16 


-960 


41 


.825 


15 


-967 


40 


-830 


14 


-973 


39 


.834 


13 


-980 


38 


-839 


12 


.986 


37 


-844 


11 


-993 


36 


-849 


10 


1-000 


35 


.854 







materials. This variety of Baume's hydrom- 
eter is usually called a saccharometer, and 
whenplungedin pure water at58° Fahr., marks 
upon its scale; in a solution containing 15 
per cent, of common salt and 85 of water by 
weight, it marks 15°; so that each degree on 
the scale is meant to indicate a density cor- 
responding to the percentage of the salt. 

The temperatm-e at which Baume's hydrom 
eter was originally adjusted was 54^°"^ Fahr.; 
it is now commonlv adjusted to 58° or 60° 
Fahr.; hence arise the discrepancies observa- 
ble in the published tables of the ''correspond- 
ence between degrees of Baume's and real 
specific gravities." 

66. Table showing the Specific Grav- 
ity corresponding icith the several degrees of 
Baume's Hydrometer for liquids heavier than 
tvater. 



63. Bauni6's Hydrometer for Liquids 
Heavier than Water. In the hydrometer 
for liquids heavier than water, the position of 
the fixed points is reversed; for the is at 
the top of the stem, and denotes the level to 
which the hydrometer sinks in distilled water: 
the 10th degree is lower down, and shows the 
level to which it sinks in the saline solution, 
and the gi-aduation is continued downwards. 

64. Baum6's Areometer, or Sacchar- 
ometer for Liquids Heavier than Water. 
This instrument is generally ia use in this 
country and in France, when it is necessary 
to ascertain the strength or density of a li- \ 
quid heavier than water. In England, Twad- • 
del's hydrometer is mostly employed for the i 
purpose. Baume's instrument is principally j 
used by confectioners to test the density of j 
syrup; also by brewers and distillers to dis- 
cover the quantity of saccharine matter in ' 
wort; and by soap manufacturers and dyers I 
to prove the strength of their lyes and dyeing ! 



Degrees of 


Speciac ' 


Degrees of 1 


Specific 


Baume. 


Gravity. | 


Baume. 


Gravity. 





1000 


39 


1372 


1 


1007 


40 


1384 


2 


1014 


41 


1398 


3 


1022 


42 


1412 


4 


1029 


43 


1426 


5 


1036 


44 


1440 


6 


1044 


45 


1454 


7 


1052 


46 


1470 


8 


1060 


47 


1485 


9 


1067 


48 


1501 


10 


1075 


49 


1516 


11 


1083 


50 


1532 


12 


1091 


51 


1549 


13 


1100 


52 


1566 


14 


1108 


53 


1583 


15 


1116 


54 


1601 


16 


U25 


5o 


1618 


17 


1134 


56 


1637 


18 


1143 


57 


1656 


19 


1152 


58 


1676 


20 


1161 


59 


1695 


21 


1171 


60 


1715 


22 


1180 


61 


1736 


23 


1190 


62 


1758 


24 


1199 


63 


1779 


25 


1210 


64 


1801 


26 


1221 


65 


1823 


27 


1231 


66 


1847 


28 


1242 


67 


1872 


29 


1252 


68 


1897 


30 


1261 


69 


1921 


31 


1275 


70 


1946 


32 


1286 


71 


1974 


33 


1298 


72 


2002 


34 


1309 


73 


2031 


35 


1321 


74 


2059 


36 


1334 


75 


2087 


37 


1346 


76 


2116 


38 


1359 







66. To Convert Degrees Baum6 into 
Specific Gravity. I. For liquids heavier 
than water. — Subtract the degree of Baume 
from 145, and divide into 145; the quotient is 
the specific gravity. 

II. For liquids lighter than water. — Add tho 
degree of Baume to 130, and divide it into 
140; the quotient is the specific gravity. 

67. To Convert Specific Gravity into 
Degrees Baum6. I. For liquids heavier 
than water. — Divide the specific gravity into 



^8 



ACE TIME TEY. 



145, and subtract from 145; the remainder 
is the degree of Banme. 

II. For liquids lighter than water. — Divide 
the specific gravity into 140 and subtract 130 
from the quotient; the remainder wiD. be the 
degree of Baume. 

68. Twaddell's Hydrometer. This 
Hydrometer is much used in the bleaching 
and dyeing establishments in Scotland, and 
some parts of England. According to this 
scale is equal to 1000, or the specific gravity 
of distilled water, and every additional 5 de- 
grees of specific gravity adds 1 degree to 
TwaddeR's scale. So that, in order to find the 
specific gravity con-esponding to any degi-ee 
of TwaddeU's scale, multiply the degree by 
5 and add 1000; thus, if this hydrometer 
shows 30°, 30 multiplied by 5 gives 150, and 
1000 added makes 1150, the specific gravity. 
To find the degree of Twaddell corresponding 
to any specific gravity, deduct 1000 from the 
specific gravity, and divide the remainder by 
6; the quotient will be the corresponding de- 
gree of TwaddeU. 

Thus, if it be required to find the degree of 
Twaddell corresponding to 1150 specific grav- 
ity, deduct 1000 from 1150, and divide the 
remainder, 150, by 5, and the quotient, 30, gives 
the degrees of Twaddell required. In this 
way the corresponding degrees of Twaddell 
and Baume can easily be found. Thus, 31 
degrees of Baume are equivalent to a specific 
gravity of 1275; and this, according to the 
above rule, will give 55 degrees TwaddeU. 
By reversing this process, Twaddell can as 
readily be reduced to Baume. 



ACetimetry. The art of deter- 
Jl\^ mining the strength of acetic acid and 
vinegar. Several methods are employed for 
the purpose, based on — the quantity of acid 
required for satm-ation; — the specific grav- 
ity after the liquid has been neutralized with 
hydrate of lime; — and the simple specific 
gravity. In aU these methods, account should 
be taken of any nfineral acid which may have 
been added, as is common with vinegars, to 
impart artificial strength. 

70. To find the Comparative Weights 
of Dry and Glacial Acetic Acid. As 
both dry and glacial (or hijdrated) acetic acid 
are referred to in many places, in speaking 
of strengths, it may be convenient to know 
that 51 parts of dry acetic acid are equal to 
60 parts oi glacial. {See No. 81.) Hence the 
weight of glacial acid multiplied by .8512, 
gives the weight of dry acid; and the weight 
of dry acid, multiplied by 1.1748 gives a very 
close approximation to the weight of glacial 
acid. 

71. Precautions in Testing" Acids. It 
is essential to success, in testing acetic or 
other acids by saturation, to hit the exact 
point of neutralization. It will be found greatly 
to simplify matters to tint with litmus {see No. 
78) either the sample under examination, or 
the test liquid; but when Htmus is used, it is 
advisable to apply a gentle heat to the test 
tube when saturation appears nearly reached; 
the heat wiQ expel from the fiquor the free 
carbonic acid, which itself has the property 
of reddening litmui*- A glass or wooden rod 



should be used for stirring, and the test liquid 
added drop by di-op. 

72. To find the strength of Acetic 
Acid by its Saturating Power. Dissolve 
196i grains pm-e crystallized bicarbonate of 
potassa in a little water; add to the solution 
sufficient water to make up exactly 1000 min- 
ims, or the 100 divisions of an acidimeter, a 
graduated glass tube of 100 divisions, each* 
division representing 10 minims. {See illustra- 
tions, No. 82.) A solution is thus formed, 
which, when added by degrees to 100 minims 
of the acetic acid or vinegar under examina- 
tion, until the latter is exactly satm-ated, 
indicates the exact amount of acid present in 
the sample. Each minim of the alkaline solu- 
tion thus employed represents 1 per cent, of 
dry acetic acid. The test fiquid must be added 
a drop at a time to avoid the risk of loss by 
excessive effervescence. 

73. To jftnd the strength of strong 
Acetic Acid. If strong acetic acid be under 
inspection, it will be found convenient, pre- 
viously to testing it, to dilute it with from 2 
to 8 times its weight of distilled water, ac- 
cording to its degree of concentration. Dilute 
acid and vinegar require no further dilution. 

Instead of 196^ grains crystallized bicar- 
bonate of potassa, may be used either 135 
grains dry {see No. 12) carbonate of potassa, 
281 grains crystallized carbonate of soda, or 
104 grains dry carbonate of soda. {See No. 
80.) 

By using 98^ grains (half the quantity) of 
the bicarbonate of potassa, we obtain a 
still more delicate test liquid; as each minim 
used for saturating a sample of acid will rep- 
resent only i of 1 per cent, of dry acid. 

74. To find the strength of Acetic 
Acid by Saturation without an Acidi- 
meter. The foregoing method can also be 
applied to test by weight, instead of by an 
acidimeter; 1000 grains of the test fiquid are 
used in testing 100 grains of acid. Every 
gi-ain of the test liquid necessary to produce 
satm-ation indicates i\ grain of dry acid, and 
every ten grains are equal to 1 per cent. 
Schuster's alkafimeter is a convenient instru- 
ment for this process, {See No. 82.) 1000 
grains of the test fiquid are introduced into 
the alkalimeter, and the whole weighed; the 
weight of the bottle and solution, after using 
such portion of its contents as is requfied for 
testing, deducted from the previous weight of 
the whole, gives the exact quantity ia grains 
of the solution consumed; this, divided by 10, 
gives the percentage of acid in the sample 
tested. This method admits of great accuracy. 

75. Practical test of the strength of 
Acetic Acid. A less accurate, but more 
convenient method for practical purposes, is 
as follows: — To 100 or 1000 parts (or grains) 
of a sample imder inspection, add cautiously 
from a weighed quantity of powdered pure 
dry bicarbonate of potassa, sufficient to pro- 
duce exact neutrafization; carefully re-weigh 
the bicarbonate unconsumed. Double the 
loss in grains will indicate the percentage of 
acid in the liquid tested. 

76. Tire's Test of the strength of Acet- 
ic Acid. Ure's test gives very accurate re- 
sults, if the ammonia employed is of the 
proper specific gravity. To 100 grains of a 
sample, very sfightly reddened with neutral 



ACIDIMETBY. 



29 



(blue) tincture of litmus, add liquor of am- 
rDonia of specific gravity .992 from an acidime- 
tor {see Xo. 82) until perfect neutralization is 
effected, indicated by the original blue color 
of the litmus being restored. The number of 
acidimetric divisions of ammonia expended, 
multiplied by 51 (for dry) or by 60 (for glacial) 
and the product divided by 100, will give, re- 
spectively, the percentage of dry or glacial 
acid in the sample. Thus: — ^if a sample of 
vinegar takes 10 acidimetric divisions of am- 
monia to neutralize it, then 10 multiplied by 
51, and divided by 100, gives 5.10, equivalent 
to 5^ per cent, of dry acid: — or, 10 multi- 
plied by 60 and divided by 100, gives 6 per 
cent, of glacial or liydrated acid in the sample. 
77. Tire's Test, by Grains, of the 
strength, of Acetic Acid. The same 
strength of ammonia is to be used in the 
acidimeter as in the preceding test, and the 
number of grain- measures of ammonia em- 
ployed for a multiplier instead of acidimetric 
divisions. The only difference is, that the 
product in each case must be divided by 1000 
instead of 100, to give the percentage of acid. 



Acidimetry. 

jr\^ the quantity c 



The estimation of 
quantity of an acid contained in 
any given sample. 

The methods used are founded chiefly on 
the capacity of acids to satm-ate or neutralize 
alkaline bases ; and, in some of the liquid 
acids, on specific gravity. 

The accuracy of the tests, when satm-a- 
tion is resorted to, depends greatly on the 
exact point of neutralization, as already re- 
marked under the head of Acetimetry. The 
proper point is arrived at when the liquid, af- 
ter being slightly heated, ceases to redden 
litmus, or does not alter the color of tmTneric 
paper {see Test Papers) ; if it turns the lat- 
ter brown, too much test-liquid has been 
added, and the operation becomes useless. 
A good method is to tint either the acid sam- 
ple or the test-liquid with a few drops of lit- 
mus {see No. 71), when the reddish shade 
will gradually deepen to purple as the point of 
saturation is approached, and the blue color 
be restored as soon as that point is reached. 

79. To test the strength of an Acid 
by Saturation. Place in a test tube 100 
grains of the acid to be examined ; if the acid 
be liquid, dilute it — if solid, dissolve it — in 6 
or 8 times its weight of distilled water. Then 
^xactly neutralize ifc with an alkali added drop 
by drop. The known quantity of alkali con- 
sumed for this purpose represents an equiv- 
alent quantity of the actual acid contained in 
the test tube. The common practice is to 
dissolve 1 equivalent (see Xo. 80) of an alka- 
line test in water, and to make up the solu- 
tion to 1000 grains (100 acidimetric divisions). 
The equivalent value of the test-liquid is then 
100; hence, the quantity of the sample tested 
will bear the same proportion to the equiva- 
lent number (see Xo. 81) of the acid under ex- 
amination, that the acidimetric divisions of 
the test-fiquid consumed, bear to the percent- 
age of acid sought. For example : Suppose 
100 grains of a sample of sulphuric acid re- 
quire 60 acidimetric divisions (600 grains) of 
the test-liquid to neutralize them; what is 



the percentage of the acid ? The equivalent 
of dry sulphuric acid is iO (see No. 81); 
therefore by the rule of proportion, sines 
100 : 40 : : 60 : 24, the sample contains 24 per 
cent, of dry sulphmic acid. 

In this method the choice of the re-agent 
must depend on the operator. Some prefer 
the ammonia test (see Ne. 76), which is very 
convenient and easily applied ; others give a 
preference to bicarbonates or carbonates of po- 
tassa or soda. TThichever be adopted, it must 
be perfectly pm-e. A test solution, once care- 
fully prepared of the proper strength, may be 
kept unharmed for any length of time in a 
stoppered bottle, and will be always ready for 
application. 

80. Table of Equivalents of Alkalis. 

Geains. 
Pm-e ammonia 17 

Dry carbonate of soda 53 

Crystallized carbonate of soda.. .143 
Crystallized bicarbonate of soda. . 84 

Dry carbonate of potassa 69 

Crystallized carbonate of potassa. 87 
Crystallized bicarbonate of potassa 100 

Pm-e or caustic soda 31 

Pure or caustic potash 47 

Sesquicarbonate of soda 85 

JSTeutral carbonate of ammonia.. 43^ 

Sesquicarbonate of ammonia 59 

Bicarbonate of ammonia 79 

1000 grain measm'es of pure water of am- 
monia of specific gravity .992, contain 17 
grains or 1 equivalent of pure gaseous ammo- 
nia. 

It is understood that all crystals must be 
perfectly free from attached water, but not in 
the least effloresced. 

81. Table of Equivalents of Acids. 
This table is based on the foregoing table of 
alkalis; so that, for instance, 1 equivalent (17 
grains) of pm-e ammonia will exactly neutral- 
ize 1 equivalent (22 grains) dry carbonic acid^ 
&c. 

Gbatns. 

Anhydrous acetic acid 51 

Hydrated or crystallized acetic acid... 60 

Dry benzoic acid 113 

Crystallized benzoic acid 122 

Dry boracic acid 35 

CrystaUized boracic acid 62 

Dry carbonic acid 22 

Dry citric acid 58 

Crystallized citric acid 67 

Dry hydrochloric acid 36^ 

Liquid hydrochloric acid (sp.gr.1.16) . . 109 

Dry mafic acid 58 

Dry nitric acid 54 

Liquid nitric acid (sp. gr. 1.5) 67 

" (sp. gr.1.42) 90 

Dry oxalic acid 36 

CrystaUized oxafic acid 63 

Dry sulphuric acid 40 

Liquid sulphmic acid (sp. gr. 1.845.. . 49 

Dry tartaric acid 66 

Crystallized tartaric acid 75 

82. Acidimeter. An acidimeter is s 
glass tube, graduated with 100 divisions, 
each division representing 10 grains of dis- 
tilled water, termed grain measures. The 
acidimeter is used for testing acids and alka- 
fis, and is usually furnished with a lip for con- 
venience in pourmg by drops. Where great 
deficacy is required in pouring or dropping; 



30 



ALKALIMETB Y. — TRE TREBMOMETEB. 



various appliances are resorted to, by which, 
the outward flow can be instantly arrested, 
merely by placing the finger or thumb on an 
orifice arranged for the ingress of air. In the 
illustrations; c denotes the place of egress for 






V?^' 



Fig. 2. 



Fig. 3. 



the contained liquid ; 1), the orifice for the in- 
gress of air, to be stopped by the finger or 
thumb ; in Fig. 2, both orifices are in a hol- 
low movable stopper; in Pig. A, the air-hole 
only is in the stopper, a. 

Fig. 1 represents Gay Lussac's Poui-et. 

Fig. 2, ]:!^ormandy's modification of Schus- 
ter's Alkalimeter. 

Fig. 3,_BiL'ck's Alkalimeter. 

Fig. 4 is a simple acidimeter, with a stop- 
per fitted to it, having a groove to correspond 
with the lip, and a vent-hole drilled through 
it to admit the air. 

These modifications of the simple acidime- 
ter are employed to allow of the test-liquid be- 
ing added a suigle drop at a time, which is 
absolutely necessary dui-ing the first part of 
the process, to prevent undue effervescence, 
and consequent danger of loss of the liquid ; 
and in the latter part it is equally indispensa- 
ble in order to attain exact saturation. They 
dispense with the use of a separate pipette, 
being, ia fact, acidimeters and pipettes com- 
bined. 



Alkalimetry. 

Jl\^ estimating the sti 



The method of 
strength of alkalis. The 
processes used are the same as in acidimetry; 
only that the unknown quantity sought is an 
alkali, and the test applied is an acid. The 
test acid is 1 equivalent (40 grains, see No. 
81) of sulphuric acid sp. gr. 1.032 at 60° Fahr. 
iaserted in an acidimeter {see No. 82) and 
made up with distilled water to 100 acidimetric 
divisions. 

84. To find the strength of an Alkali. 
Place 100 grains of the alkali in a tube, and 
agitate it with about ^ ounce hot water. 
When settled, pour off the clear into a vessel 
for trial. Kepeat this process until nothing 
soluble remains in the test tube, shown by 
the last washing not affecting the color of 
turmeric paper. Care must be taken not to 
waste the smallest portion of the liquid, as it 
would render the results inaccurate. 



ISText, exactly neutralize the alkaline solution 
by adding sufficient of the test acid drop by 
drop. If the saturation is complete, it wiU 
neither turn litmus paper red, nor turmeric 
paper brown. (See No. 78.) The weight of 
alkali tested, bears the same relation to its 
equivalent weight (see No. 80), that the acidi- 
metric divisions of acid used, do to the percent- 
age of alkali sought. > 

Thus: — If we test 100 grains of potash and 
find it requires 35 acidimetric divisions of test. 
acid to saturate it, we refer to table No. 80, 
and find that the equivalent of pm-e potash 
is 47 grains. Then 100 : 47 : : 35 : 16.45. 

That is, the sample of potash under exam- 
ination contains nearly 16^ per cent, of piire 
potash. (See No. 587.) 



Tlie Tliermometer. in 
Fahrenheit's Thermometer, which is 
universally employed in this country and 
Great Britain, the freezing point of water is 
placed at 32°, and the boiling point at 212° 
and the number of intervening degrees is 180. 

The Centigrade thermometer, which has 
long been used in Sweden under the name 
of Celsius' thermometer, and is now employed 
on the continent of Europe generally, marks 
the freezing point at Zero or 0°, and the boil- 
ing point at 100°. 

In Eeaumur's thermometer, used in France 
before the revolution, the freezing point is 
Zero, and the boiling point 80°. 

Degrees below zero are distinguished by 
prefixing the minus sign, thus — ; so that 
— 17° Fahr. represent a temperature of 17° 
lower than zero, equivalent to 49 degrees 
below freezing point. 

86. To Convert degrees of Centi- 
grade into degrees of Fahrenheit. Mul- 
tiply the degrees of Centigrade by 9, and di- 
vide the result by 5: — then add 32. 

Thus: to find the degrees of Fahrenheit 
equivalent to 30 degrees of Centigrade. 

30 degrees Centigrade. 
Multiplied by 9 

Divided by 5)270 

54 
Add 32 

Answer, 86 degrees Fahrenheit. 

87. To reduce degrees of Fahrenheit 
to the corresponding degrees of Centi- 
grade. Eeverse the above process — Fnst 
deduct 32 from the degrees of Fahrenheit, 
then multiply the difference by 5, and lastly 
divide the result by 9. 

Thus, 86 degrees Fahrenheit. 
Deduct 32 

54 
Multiplied by 5 

Divided by 9)270 

Answer, 30 degrees Centigrade. 



THE ART OF DYEING. 



31 



88. To Reduce degrees of Reaumur 
to the corresponding degrees of Fahren- 
lieit. Multiply the degrees of Keaumur by 
9, divide the result by 4, end then add 32. 

Thus, 24° Reaumur. 
Multiplied by 9 

Divided by 4)216 

54 
Add 32 

Answer, 86° Fahrenheit. 

89. To reduce degrees of Fahrenheit 
to corresponding degrees of Reaumur. 

Reverse the above process. 

90. To reduce degrees of Reaumur 
to Centigrade. Add to the degrees of 
Reaumur their one-fourth part. 

Thus, 40° Reaumur. 
Add one-fourth, 10 

Answer 50° Centigrade. 

91. To reduce degrees of Centigrade 
to Reaumur. Deduct one-fifth part. 

Thus, 50° centigrade 
Deduct one-fiith 10 

Answer, 40° Reaumur. 

92. Table of corresponding degrees 
of Fahrenheit, Reaumur and the Centi- 
grade. 



1 Fahrenheit. 


Eeaumnr. 


Centigrade. 


Boiling. 


212 


80 


100 




203 


76 


95 




194 


72 


90 




185 


68 


85 




176 


64 


80 




167 


60 


75 




158 


56 


70 




149 


52 


65 




140 


48 


60 




131 


44 


55 




122 


40 


50 




113 


36 


45 




104 


32 


40 




95 


28 


35 




86 


24 


30 




77 


20 


25 




68 


16 


20 




59 


12 


15 




50 


8 


10 




41 


4 


5 


Freezing. 


32 










23 


— 4 


— 5 




14 


— 8 


— 10 




5 


— 12 


— 15 




— 4 


— 16 


— 20 




— 13 


— 20 


— 25 




— 2Q 


— 24 


— 30 




— 31 


— 28 


— 35 




— 40 


— 32 


— 40 


All intermediate de 


grees can 1 


)e obtained 


by the preceding rules 







The Art of Dyeing. The 
art of fijsing coloring matters umfoi*mly 
and pemianently in the fibres of wool, fsilk, 
lin,en, cotton, and other substances. Dyeiiig is 
a chemical process, and the mode of its per- 
formance depends upon the substance opera- 
ted on. Thus It is found that the process by 
which wool is dyed black, would only impart 
a rusty brown to linen. Wool unites with 
almost all coloring matters with great facility, 
silk in the next degree, cotton less easily than 
silk, and linen with even more difficulty. 
Preparatory to the operation of dyeing, each 
of these substances undergoes a species of 
preparation to free the fibres from adhering 
foreign matter, as dnt, grease, &c, which 
would prevent the absorption of the aqueous 
fluid to be afterwards applied, as well as im- 
pair the brilliancy of the dye. Wool is cleaned 
or scoured by means of a weak alkaline lye, 
soap and water, or putrid urine; the latter 
being very generally used for this purpose. 
Silk is cleaned from the natural varnish that 
covers it, by boiling with white soap and 
water. Cotton and linen are cleaned with 
alkaline lyes of more or less density. The 
substances so prepared are ready to undergo 
the various operations of dyeing. 

Among the various coloring materials em- 
ployed by dyers, some impart their tiuts to 
different substances by simple immersion in 
their infusions or decoctions, and have hence 
been called '' substantive colors;" but by far 
the greater number only impart a fugitive 
dye, unless the fibres of the stuff have been 
previously filled with some substance which 
has a strong affinity for the latter on the one 
hand, and the coloring material on the other. 
The substances applied with this intention are 
called "Mordants," and generally exercise 
the double property of "fixing" and "striking" 
the color. Thus, if cotton goods be dyed 
with a decoction of madder, it will only re- 
ceive a fugitive and dirty red tinge, but ff it 
be first run through a solution of acetate of 
alumina, dried at a high temperature, washed, 
and then run through a madder bath, it 
will come out a permanent and lively red. 
The principal mordants are the acetates of 
iron and alumina, sulphate of iron, alum, and 
some other chemical salts. A perfect know- 
ledge of the effect of mordants on different 
coloring substances is of paramount import- 
ance to the dyer. 

After having received the proper mordants, 
the goods are dried and rinsed, after which 
they are passed for a shorter or longer time 
through an inmsion, decoction, or solution of 
the dyeing materials, which constitute the 
" dye-hath"; they are again dried and rinsed. 
In many cases, the immersion in the dye-bath 
is repeated, either with the same materials or 
with others to vary or modify the color. 
After the substances have been properly 
dyed, they are subjected to a thorough rinsing 
or washing in soft water, until the latter runs 
off uncolored. j 

94. Dye "Woods, &c. Decoctions of 
the different woods are prepared for general 
use in the dye house as they are required. If 
the wood be in the chipped state, it must be 
boiled for an hour, in the proportion of 1 
pound of wood to 1 gallon of water; a second 



THE ART OF DYEING. 



boiling is generally given with new wa- 
ter, and the liquor obtained nsed instead of 
water with more new wood. This second li- 
quor is not good for dyeing alone, but when 
employed instead of water for new wood, f 
pound of new wood is sufficient. The second 
Hquor may, however, be used as an auxiliary 
in the dyeing of compound colors, such as 
browns, drabs and fawns. If the wood be 
ground the same quantity is taken — namely, 
1 pound for each gallon of the decoction re- 
quired, and is prepared as follows: — on a 
piece of coarse cloth stretched upon a frame, 
or laid into a basket, put the ground wood, 
and place it over a vessel, then pour boiling 
water over the wood until the liquor that runs 
through is nearly colorless. Barwood and 
Camwood are always used in the ground 
state, the wood being put into the boiler 
along with the goods; no decoctions of these 
woods are made. Decoctions of bark and 
weld are often formed by putting them into a 
coarse canvas bag, and then suspending it in 
boiling water. 

The coloring principle of archil is highly 
soluble in hot water, and is useful in combi- 
nation with other dyeing materials; but used 
alone, does not impart a permanent color. 

95. To prepare Annotto. Into 2 gal- 
lons of water put 1 pound of Annotto, 4 
ounces of pearlash, and 2 ounces of soft 
soap, and apply heat, stirring until the whole 
is dissolved. TVTien convenient it is best to 
boil the solution. 

96. To prepare Catech.u. To 7 or 8 gal- 
lons of water put 1 pound of catechu, and 
boil till it is all dissolved; then add 2 
ounces of sulphate of copper, stir, and it is 
ready for use. Mtrate of Copper may also 
be used, taking 1 wine-glassful of the solution 
made according to the next receipt. 

97. To make Nitrate of Copper So- 
lution. To 1 part by measm-e nitric acid, 
and 2 parts water, add metallic copper so 
long as the acid will dissolve it, then bottle 
the solution for use. 

98. To make Sulphate of Indigo. 
Into 5 pounds of the most concentrated sul- 
phuric acid, stir in by degrees 1 pound of the 
best indigo, finely ground; expose this mix- 
ture to a heat of about 160° Fahr. for 10 or 12 
hours, stirring it occasionally; a little rubbed 
upon a window-pane should assume a pm'ple- 
blue color. 

99. To make Indigo Extract. This is 
prepared by proceeding exactly as stated for 
sulphate of indigo and then diluted with 
about 4 gallons hot water, and the whole put 
upon a tliick woolen filter, over a large vessel, 
and hot water poured upon the filter, until it 
passes through nearly colorless; the blackish 
matter retained upon the filter is thrown 
away, and the filtered solution is transferred 
to a leaden vessel, and evaporated to about 3 
gallons, to which is added about 4 pounds 
chloride of sodium (table salt) and well stir- 
red; the whole is again put upon a wooden 
filter and allowed to drain. The extract re- 
mains as a thin pasty mass upon the filter, and 
is ready for use. 

100. To make Red Liquor. Into 1 
gallon hot water place 2 pounds alum; dis- 
solve, in a separate vessel, 2 pounds acetate 
of lead in 1 gallon water; in a third vessel 



dissolve ^ pound crystallized soda; mix all 
the solutions together and stir weU for some 
time, then allow to stand over night; decant 
the clear solution which is ready for use. 

101. To make Caustic Potash. To 
3 gallons water add 2 pounds either black or 
pearl ashes, and boil; when seething add 
newly-slaked lime, until a small quantity 
taken out does not efiervesce when an acid is 
added to it. To test this, take a tumbler half 
fiUed with cold water, put a table-spoonful of 
the boiling lye into the tumbler, and add a 
few drops sulphmic acid; if the acid were 
added to the hot lye, it would spurt up and 
endanger the operator. When the addition 
of acid causes no efi'ervescence, the boiling 
and adding of lime is stopped, and the whole 
allowed to settle; then remove the clear li- 
quid into a vessel having a cover, to prevent 
it from taking carbonic acid from the ah*. 
This serves as a stock for general use. The 
lime sediment remaiuhig may have some hot 
water added, which will give a strong lye, and 
may be used for first boils for yam or heavy 
cloth. 

102. To make Caustic Soda. For 
every gallon water add 1 pound soda ash, or 
2 pounds crystallized soda (washing soda); 
boil and proceed by adding slaked Mme, and 
testing as for potash ; boiling for some time 
is essential in order to ensure perfect caus- 
ticity. 

103. To make Lime-water. Take 
some well and newly-burned limestone, and 
pour water over it as long as the stone seems 
to absorb it, and allow it to stand; if not 
breaking down freely, sprinkle a htttle more 
water over it. A small quantity is best done 
in a vessel, such as an old cask, so that it can 
be covered with a board or bag. After being 
slaked, add about 1 pound of it to every 10 
gallons cold water, then stu* and allow to set- 
tle; the clear liquor is what is used for dyeing. 
This should be made up just previous to using, 
as lime-water standing attracts carbonic acid 
from the ah, which tends to weaken the solu- 
tion. 

104. To Make Bleaching Liquor. 
Take a quantity of bleaching powder (chloride 
of lime) and add to it as much water as wQl 
make it into a thin cream; take a flat piece 
of wood, and break all the smaU pieces by 
pressing them against the side of the vessel, 
then add 2 gaUons cold water for every pound 
of powder; stir weU, put a cover upon the 
vessel, and allow the whole to settle. This 
will form a sort of stock vat for bleaching opera- 
tions. 

105. To make a Sour. To every gal- 
lon of water add 1 gill of sulphuric acid, stir 
thoroughly; goods steeped in this should be 
covered with the liquor, as pieces exposed 
become dry, which deteriorates the fibre; if 
left under the hquor the cloth is not hurt by 
being long in the sour, but on being taken 
out, every care should be taken to wash out 
the liquor thoroughly, otherwise the goods 
will be made tender, 

106. To make Cochineal Liquor or 
Paste. Put 8 ounces ground cochineal into 
a flask and add to it 8 fluid ounces ammonia 
and 8 ounces water; let the whole simmer to- 
gether for a few hours, when the liquor is 
ready for use. 



THE ABT OF DYEING. 



33 



107. Acid Preparations of Tin. The 

acid preparations of tin used in dyeing are 
called spirits, with, a term prefixed to each 
denoting their particular application, as red 
spirits, barwood spirits, <fec. The tin em- 
ployed for making these preparations has to 
undergo a process coMqUl feathering , and is as 
follows: — the tin is melted in an iron pot, and 
then poured from some height into a vessel 
fjlled with cold water; this granulates or 
feathers, the tin. {See Xo. 3319.) 

108. Red Spirits are made by mixing 
together in a stoneware vessel, 3 parts hy 
measure hydrochloric acid, 1 part nitric acid, 
and 1 part water, and adding to this feathered 
tin in small quantities at a time, until about 
2 ounces tin to the pound of acid used are 
dissolved. In this operation the temperatm-e 
should not be allowed to rise. (See Xo. 4124.) 

109. Yellow Spirits are prepared in 
the same way, only substituting sulphmic 
acid for the nitric acid. This is used for the 
same purposes as red spirits, with the advan- 
tage of the economy of sulphuric over nitric 
acid. 

110. Barwood Spirit is prepared by 
using 5 measures hydrochloric acid, 1 nitric 
acid and 1 water, dissolving in this 1 ounce 
feathered tin for every pound of the whole 
mixture. 1| ounces tin may be used if the 
red dye is required to be very deep. 

111. Plumb Spirit is made by using 6 
to 7 measures hydrochloric acid to 1 nitric 
acid and 1 water, dissolving in it 1-^ ounces tin 
for each pound of the acid mixture. This 
spirit is named from a preparation made with 
it and a decoction of logwood. A strong so- 
lution of logwood is made and allowed to cool, 
then to each gallon of the solution there is 
added from 1 to 1^ pints of the spirit ; the 
whole is well stirred and set aside to settle. 
This preparation has a beautiful violet color, 
and silk and cotton are dyed of that shade by 
dipping them iuto this plumb liquor without 
any previous mordant. The depth of tint 
will depend on the strength of the solution. 

112. Plumb Spirit for "Woolen Dye- 
ing'. This is prepared by addirig tin to ni- 
tric acid in which a quantity of chloride of 
ammonium (sal ammoniac) has been dissolved. 
Observe, that all these spirit preparations are 
varied by diflferent operators, some preferring 
more or less of the two acids, and also of 
the tin ; but the proportions given form good 
Working spirits, and if care be taken in their 
preparation not to fire them, that is, not to 
allow the temperature to get so high as to 
convert the tin into a persalt, the operator 
will not fad in his processes as far as the 
quality of the spirit is concerned. 

113. Tin Spirits. The following are 
among the best recommended preparations of 
tin spirits, used for dyeing scarlet : 

1 pound nitric acid, 1 pound water; dissolve 
in this li ounces sal ammoniac, and then add, 
by degrees, 2 ounces pure tin, beaten into rib- 
bons. 

Or : dissolve 1 part sal ammoniac in 8 parts 
nitric acid at 30° Baume ; add, by degrees, 1 
part pure tin ; and dilute the solution with 
one-fourth its weight of water. 

Or: 4 parts hydrochloric acid at 17° Baume, 
1 part nitric acid at 30° Baum6; dissolve in 
this mixture 1 part pure tin. 



Or : 8 parts nitric acid, 1 part sal ammoniac 
or common salt, and 1 part grain tin. This is 
the common spuit used by dyers. 

114. Alum Plumb. Make a strong 
decoction of logwood, and then add to it 1 
pound alum for every pound of logwood 
used. 

115. To Test the Purity of Alum. 
The usual impurity which renders alum unfit 
for the uses of the dyer, is the ferro-sulphate 
of potassa, but if iron be present in any other 
shape it is equally injurious. Common alimi 
frequently contains ammonia, from urine or 
the crude sulphate of the gas works having 
been employed in its manufacture. This may 
be detected by adding a little quicklime or 
caustic potassa. Pure alum should form a 
colorless solution with water, and give a white 
precipitate with pm-e potassa soluble in an ex- 
cess of the latter. It should suffer no change 
on the addition of tincture of galls, prussiate 
of potash, or sulphureted hydrogen. 

116. Nitrate of Iron is used in the dye- 
house for various purposes. Its principal use 
is for dyeing Prussian Blue, and is obtained as 
foUows : Take 4 parts nitric acid and 1 part 
water in a glass or stoneware vessel ; place it 
in a warm bath, and add clean iron so long as 
the acid continues to dissolve it with effer- 
vescence ; take out any iron that remains un- 
dissolved, and, after settling for 1 hour, the 
clear solution is ready for use. The fumes 
given ofi" during the operation should be guard- 
ed against, being deleterious to health and in- 
jurious to any metal or vegetal with which 
they come in contact. This solution should 
be kept in the dark, as it loses some of its 
strength by exposure to light. 

117. Chloride of Iron is another salt 
used in the dye-house for dyeing silks and 
woolens a deep blue, and is prefeiTcd, for that 
purpose, to copperas. It is prepared for use 
thus : To 4 parts hydrochloric acid add 2 parts 
water, and apply a gentle heat ; then add iron 
in pieces, or filings, so long as it conttnuee to 
be dissolved ; then pour off" the clear liquid 
into a basin, and evaporate, when greenish 
colored crystals of chloride of iron will be ob- 
tained. This salt crystallizes with difficulty, 
deliquesces in the air, and should not be ex- 
posed. Instead of evaporating and crystal- 
hzing, the solution may be put in a bottle and 
reserved for use. 

118. To make Iron Liquor. Into a 
large cast-non boiler, or pot, a quantity of 
iron tm-nings, hoops or nails, are introduced, 
and acetic acid — the crude pyroligneous acid 
from the distillation of wood — is poured in 
upon them. The strength of the acid is gen- 
erally of 5° Baume, or specific gravity 1.035. 
A temperature of 150° Fahrenheit is main- 
tained till the solution of protoacetate of iron 
is obtained. During the solution of the iron 
much tarry matter separates, which is skim- 
med off, and the solution frequently agitated, 
to free it, as much as possible, from the tar. 
As soon as a strength is gained of a specific 
gravity of 1.09, at 60° Fahrenheit, the solution 
is allowed to cool, for a further quantity of 
impurities to separate. Wlien clean turnings 
are operated on, the process of solution ix 
completed in 5 to 7 days. 

119. To make up a Blue Vat. Take 1 
pound indigo, and grind in water until n* 



S4. 



THE AET OF DYEIXG. 



grittiness can be felt between tbe jSngers; 
put this into a deep yessel— casks are gener- 
ally nsed — with about 12 gallons water ; then 
add 2 pounds copperas, and 3 pounds newly- 
slaked lime, and stir for 15 minutes ; stir again 
after 2 hours, and repeat every 2 hours for 5 or 
6 times ; towards the end, the liquor should be 
of a greenish yellow color, with blackish 
veins through it, and a rich froth of indigo on 
the surface. After standing 8 hours to settle, 
the vat is fit to use. 

120. To make Blue Stone. Sulphate 
of copper is known in commerce as Blue 
stone, Roman vitriol, and Blue vitriol, and 
may be prepared by exposing pm-e copper in 
thin sheets to the joint action of dilute sul- 
phuric acid and air; or by treating freshly 
precipitated oxide of copper with diluted pure 
oil of vitriol ; or by boiling the metal Avith oil 
of vitriol, either in the concentrated state or 
diluted with an equal bulk of water. These 
are the simplest ways of obtaining this salt, 
which may be reduced to a crystalline form 
by evaporation. The crystals assume a well- 
defined rhomboidal form of a fine sapphire- 
blue color. 

121. To make Solutions for Dyeing. 
In making solutions of copperas, blue stone, 
chrome, &c., there is no fixed rule to be fol- 
lowed. A quantity of the crystals are put into 
a vessel, and boiling water poured upon 
them and stii'red until dissolved. Some 
salts requhe less water than others when sat- 
urated solutions are wanted ; but in the dj'e- 
house satm-ation is not essential, and therefore 
there is always used ample water to dissolve 
the salt. In all cases, however, the propor- 
tions are known, so that the operator, when 
adding a gallon, or any other quantity of 
liquor to the dye-bath, knows how much salt 
that portion contains. From i to 1 pound 
per gallon is a common quantity. 

122. To Prepare Cotton Yarn for 
Dyeing. Cotton yam, when spun, is put up 
in hmiks, a certain number of which com- 
bined constitute ahead ; the number of hanks 
ranging from 6 to 20, according as the 
fineness of the yam varies from very coarse 
to very fine. Sufficient of these heads are 
tied together, or handed with stout twine into 
a bundle, to make 10 pounds. 

After banding, the cotton is boiled in water 
for 2 or 3 hours until thoroughly wet. The 
bundles are then loosed, and each roll of yam 
is put on a wooden pin, about 3 feet long 
and 1^ inches thick, 4 or 6 pins making a 
bundle. The yam is now ready for dyeing" 
dark colors; but for light shades, it must be 
bleached previous to dyeing. The bleaching 
is performed thus : 

123. To Bleach Cotton Yarn. A ves- 
sel sufficiently large to allow of the yam be- 
ing worked in it freely without pressing, is to 
be two-thirds filled with boiling water ; add 1 
pint bleaching liquor (see Xo. 104) to every 
gallon of water in the vessel, and work the 
yam in this for half an hour. Into another 
vessel of similar size, two-thirds filled with 
cold water, add one wine-glassful sulphmic 
acid for every 2 gallons water ; stn well, and 
then put the yam from the bleaching solution 
into this, and work for 10 minutes ; then wash 
out until all the acid is removed. This will 
bleach the yam for dyeing any light shade. 



124. To Prepare Cotton Cloth for 

Dyeing. The cloth is taken out of the fold, 
and hanked up by the hand, taking the end 
through the hank and tying it loosely, tech- 
nically termed Mnching ; it is then steeped 
over night in old alkaline lye, which loosens 
and removes the oil, grease and dressing 
which it has obtained in weaving ; it is then 
thoroughly rinsed in cleam- water. TThere 
there is a dash- wheel, it should be used for 
this washing. In consequence of the Uquoi 
often fermenting with the paste in the cloth, 
this pTOcess has been technically teinned the 
rot steep. 

If the cloth is to be dyed a dark color, no 
fm-ther preparation is needed ; but if light, 
the cloth has to be bleached as follows : 

125. To Bleach Cotton Cloth. After 
undergoing the rot steep, boil for 3 hoiu's in 
caustic lye, of the strength of 1 gill of stock 
lye {see No. 101) to the gaUon of water ; 
wash out, and steep for 6 hom's in a solution 
of 1 pint of bleaching liquor {see No. 104) to 
the gallon of water; wash, and steep 1 hour 
in a strong sour of 1 wine-glassful sulphuric 
acid to 1 gallon water ; wash well from this 
before drying or dyeing. 

If the cloth be very heavy, it may be neces- 
sary to repeat in their proper order the boiling 
in lye, the steeping in bleaching liquor, and 
in the sour, finishing, as before, with thorough 
washing or drying. 

In bleaching cloth for dyeing, care has to 
be taken that it is all equally white, other- 
wise it will show in the color. 

The quantity of water used should be suffi- 
cient to cover the cloth easily without pressure. 

If the goods be old, and have previously 
been dyed, and if the shade required be a 
deep shade, and the color of the goods Hght, 
in that case nothing is generally required but 
steeping in alkaline lye to remove any grease 
or starch ; but if the color of the cloth is 
dark, the best method is to bleach as if they 
were grav goods. 

126. "^To Remove Oil Stains. When 
there are oil spots upon goods, and so fixed 
or dried in, that steeping in an alkaline lye 
will not remove them, rub a little soft soap 
upon the stain, and let it remain for an hour, 
then rub gently with the hand in a lather of 
soap, slightly warmed, and wash in water; 
for cotton, a little caustic lye will do equally 
weU, but the soap is preferable, and seldom 
fails. It is essential that all oil or grease be 
removed before dyeing. 

127. To Remove Iron Stains. Take 
a little hydrochloric acid in a basin or saucer, 
and make it slightly warm, then dip the iron 
stain into the acid for about 1 minute, which 
wiU dissolve the oxide of iron; the cloth 
must be weU washed from this, first in water, 
then in a little soda and water, so as to re- 
move all trace of acid. A little oxalic acid 
may be used instead of hydrochloric, but 
more time is required, and with old fixed 
spots is not so effective. The same precau- 
tions are necessary in washing out the acid, 
as oxahc acid dried in the cloth injm-es it. 

128. To Remove Mildew from Cot- 
ton. Proceed with the stains by rubbing in 
soap or steeping in a little soda, washing, and 
then steeping in bleaching liquor (see iVb. 104), 
or by putting a wine-glassful of the stock 



THE ABT OF DYEING 



'd5 



liquor {see Xo. 101) in 1 i)iiit of Tvater; after- 
wards wash, pass throuf^li a sour (5ee JN^o. 105), 
and wash, again. 

1 29. To Remove Indelible-Ink Marks. 
Steep in a little chlorine water or a weak solu- 
tion of bleaching liquor {see Xo. 104), for 
about half an hour, then wash in ammonia 
water, which will obliterate the stain; then 
wash in clear water. They may also be re- 
moved by spreading the cloth with the ink 
marks over a basin filled with hot water; 
then moisten the ink marks with tincture of 
iodine, and immediately after take a feather 
and moisten the parts"^ stained by the iodine 
with a solution of hyposulphate of soda, or 
caustic potassa or soda, until the color is re- 
moved ; then let the cloth dip in the hot wa- 
ter ; after a while wash well and drv. 

130. Indigo Blue Dye for Yarn. The 
\ats used for dyeing indigo blue are usually 
wine pipes or other large casks, sunk in the 
ground to a depth convenient for the operators 
to work at. Five of these constitute a set, 
and are worked together and kept of the same 
strength. The yarn being worked in quanti- 
ties of 100 pounds, 20 pounds are passed 
through each vat. 

Each vat is filled aljout three-fom-ths with 
cold water; there are then added 8 pounds of 
indigo, 16 pounds of sulphate of iron (cop- 
peras), and 24 pounds newly-slaked lime. The 
whole is well sthTed with a rake for half an 
hour, and this stirring is repeated every 1^ 
hours for the fii-st day. 

The time to stop the stirring is known by 
the solution becoming a rich oak yellow, 
having large blue veins running through it 
and a fine indigo froth on the surface. THien 
these signs are all favorable, the solution is 
allowed to stand for several hom-s till all the 
solid matter settles, when it is ready for use. 

The mode of dyeing consists in simply im- 
mersing the goods, and working them m the 
solution for 15 muiutes, taking out and 
wringing or pressing, and then exposing to 
the air ; repeating this operation untd the de- 
sired depth of color is obtained. The yam is 
then washed in cold water and dried. WTien 
the shade required is very deep, the yam 
may, previous to washing, be passed through 
a tub of water acidulated with vitriol tdl^'it 
tastes acid, and then washed ; this adds bril- 
liancy to the color. 

1 31 . Sky Blue Dye for Cotton Goods. 
To dye 10 pounds of cotton, first bleach the 
cotton {see Xo. 125); then, to a tub of cold 
water sufficient to work the goods easily, add 
i pint nitrate of iron, and work in this for 20 



Into a tub of cold water put 1 imperial pint of 
nitrate of iron and 2 gills hydrochloric acid, 
then add 3 ounces crystals of tin (or 1 pint 
chloride of tin); stir well and immediately 
work the goods in it for 30 minutes; wring 
out and put du-ectly into the prussiate tub, 
made up with water into which is put a solu- 
tion of 12 ounces ferrocyanide, and one wine- 
glassful of hydrochloric acid; work in this 
for 15 minutes, then wash out in clean water 
in which is dissolved 2 ounces of alum. If a 
deeper shade of blue is requned, wash theia. 
in clean water without the alum, pass them 
again through the two tubs ; and, lastly, wash 
them ia water with the alum. 

133. Royal Blue. This is dyed in the 
same manner as Xapoleon Blue, but the li- 
quors are stronger — using 2 pints non solution, 
2 gills hydrochloric acid, and 4 ounces tia 
crystals. The Prussiate tub is made up by 
dissolving in it 1 pound ferrocyanide of po- 
tassium, and adding 1 wine-glassful of sul- 
phuric acid, and 1 of hydrochloric acid. If 
not dark enough with putting through once, 
repeat. 

134. Blue. Copperas (sulphate of iron) 
is used as a mordant for dyeing blue by ferro- 
cyanide of potassium (prussiate of potas- 
sium). The copperas best suited for the blue vat 
should be of a dark rusty green color, and 
free from copper, 2dnc, or alumina. Thus, 10 
pounds cotton may be dyed a good rich blue 
by working it for 15 minutes in a solution of 
4 pounds copperas; wring out; and then work 
through a solution of 4 ounces of the ferro- 
cyanide; finally, wash in cold water containing 
1 ounce alum in solution. 

Copperas is also used as a dye by the oxi- 
dation of the iron vrithin the fibre. " Thus: 

135. Iron Buff or Nankeen. Take 2 
pounds copperas, and dissolve in warm water, 
then add the requisite quantity of water for 
working the goods; work in this for 20 min- 
utes; wring out, and put immediately into 
another vessel filled with lime-water, and 
work in this for 15 minutes; wring out and 
expose to the air for half an hour, when the 
goods wiU assume a buff color. If the color 
is not sufficiently deep, the operation may be 
repeated, working through the same copperas 
solution, but using fresh lime-water each time. 
The goods should'be finaUy washed through 
clean warm water and dried. 

136. Nankeen or Buff Dye for Cot- 
ton Goods. To a tub of hot water add 1 
pint nitrate of iron, and work in this for half 
an hour 10 pounds cotton previously bleached 
{see Xo. 125) ; wash out in water, and dry. 



minutes; wring out, and pass through a tub This process is simple and easy, and produces 
of clean water. Into another tub of cold a permanent dye. 

water add 4 oimces ferrocyanide of potassium ! 137. General Receipts for Dyeing 
in solution, and about a wine-glassful of sid- 1 Cotton. In the following receipts, the quan- 
phuric acid; work the goods in this for 15 , titles are given for 10 pounds cotton, whether 
minutes; wring out and wash through cold yam or cloth. For more or less cotton, the 
water, in which is dissolved 1 ounce of alum; i quantities can be increased or diminished in 
wring out and dry. For lighter or darker proportion; but when small articles are to be 



shades of blue, use less or more of the iron 
and ferrocyanide; or, should the color be too 
light after passing through the process de- 
scribed, add 1 ounce more ferrocyanide, repeat 
the operation through the same tubs, and the 
shade will be deepened nearly double. 

132. Napoleon Blue. For 10 pounds 
«otton goods, the cotton must be first bleached. 



dyed — such as ribbons, gloves, <fec. — a Httlo 
rnore of the materials may be used in propor- 
tion to advantage. Where washing is referred 
to, it is always in cold water, unless other- 
wise specified. 

138. Common Black. Steep the goods 
in a decoction of 3 pounds sumach while it is 
hot, and let them lie over night; wring out 



36 



THE ABT OF DYEING, 



and work them for 10 minutes through lime- 
water, then work for half an hour in a solu- 
tion of 2 pounds copperas. They may either 
be washed from this, or worked again through 
lime-water for 10 minutes; then work them 
for half an hour in a warm decoction of 3 
pounds logwood, adding ^ pint chamber lye; 
before entering the goods, lift and raise with 

2 ounces copperas in solution; work 10 min- 
utes, then wash and dry. 

139. Jet Black. The goods are dyed 
in the same manner as the last receipt; but 
along with the logwood is added 1 pound 
fustic. 

In both the above receipts if 3 pints iron 
liquor {see No. 118) be used instead of the 
copperas, or in part mixed mth the cop- 
peras, it makes a richer shade of black, but 
copperas is generally used; if mixed, use half 
the quantity of each. 

140. Blue Black. Dye the goods first 
a good shade of blue by the vat {see No. 130), 
and then proceed as for common black. If 
the blue be very deep, then half the quantity 
of the materials for dyeing black will suffice. 

141. Spirit YeUow. Work through a 
solution of protochloride of tin, of the specific 
gravity of 1° Baume, for 30 minutes ; wash 
out, and work for 15 minutes in a decoction of 

3 pounds bark kept at a boiling heat ; lift out 
the goods and add to the bark solution ^ pint 
single chloride of tin ; work the goods for 20 
minutes in this, and then wash welL in cold 
water. This gives a rich yellow. 

142. Spirit Brown. First dye the goods 
a spirit yellow, according to the last receipt ; 
after washing, work for ^ hour in a decoction 
of 2 pounds lima or peachwood and 1 pound 
logwood ; lift the goods out and add 3 ounces 
alum in solution, and work the goods in it 15 
minutes; wash and dry. By varying the pro 
portions of logwood and limawood, a variety 
of shades may be produced. 

143. Mordant Brown. Steep the goods 
for six hours in a decoction of sumach, next 
dye a spirit yellow, according to the receipt 
given above. Then work for half an hour 
through a decoction of 2 pounds limawood 
and 8 ounces logwood; lift the goods, and 
add 2 ounces alum in solution ; work for 15 
nunutes, wash and dry. This method is weU 
adapted for cotton goods, is better than the 
spirits, and more easily performed by the non- 
practical man. The spirit brown is best for 
yarn. 

144. Cinnamon Brown. Dye a dark 
spirit yeUow {see No. 141), and work for 30 
minutes in 35 pounds limawood and ^ pound 
logwood; lift the goods and add 2 ounces 
alum in solution ; wash and dry. 

145. XJvanterin Brown. Dye a spirit 
yellow {see No. 141), then work for 20 
minutes in a decoction of 1 pound limawood 
and 1 pound fustic ; lift, and add -J pint red 
liquor {see No. 100) ; work 10 minutes in this; 
Wash and dry. 

146. Fawn Brown. Take 1 part an- 
notto liquor {see No. 95), and 1 part boiling 
water ; stir well, and work the goods in it for 
10 minutes ; wring out and wash in two wa- 
ters ; then work for 20 minutes in a decoction 
of 2 pounds fustic and 1 pound sumach ; lift, 
and add 3 ounces copperas in solution ; stir 



work for 20 minutes in a decoction of 8 ounces 
limawood, 8 ounces fustic, and 4 ounces log- 
wood ; lift, and add 1 ounce alum ; work in 
this for 10 minutes ; wring out and dry. 

147. Catechu Brown. Work the goods 
at a boiling heat for 2 hours in 2 pounds of 
catechu prepared according to l^o. 96 ; wring 
out, and then work for half an hour in a hot 
solution of 6 ounces bichromate of potassa ; 
wash from this in hot water. If a little soap be 
added to the wash water, the color is improved. 
Deeper shades of brown may be dyed by 
repeating the operation. 

148. Catechu Chocolates. Dye brown 
according to the last receipt, then work for 15 
rninutes in a decoction of 1^ pounds logwood ; 
lift, and add 3 ounces alum in solution ; work 
10 minutes longer ; wash out and dry. Dif- 
ferent shades of brown and chocolate can be 
produced, by varying the proportion of log- 
wood, and the strength of the brown dye. 

149. Chocolate, or French Brown. 
Dye a spirit yeUow according to receipt IS'o. 
141 ; then work for half an horn* in a decoc- 
tion of 3 pounds logwood ; lift, and add i pint 
of red liquor {see No. 100), and work 10 min- 
utes longer ; wash and dry. A deeper shade 
may be obtained by adding 1 pound fustic to 
the logwood. 

150. Catechu Fawns. "VTork the goods 
15 minutes in hot water containing 2 pints 
catechu, prepared as in receipt No. 96 ; wring 
out, and work 15 minutes in hot water con- 
taining 1 ounce bichromate of potassa in solu- 
tion ; wash and dry. 

151. C atechu Fawns— Another Meth- 
od. Work in the catechu the same as in the 
last receipt ; wring out, and work for 15 min- 
utes in warm water containing 2 ounces 
acetate of lead in solution; wash in cold 
water and dry. 

1 52. Catechu Fawns — ^Another Meth- 
od. Work in warm water containing 4 pints 
catechu {see No. 96), lift, and add 2 ounces 
copperas in solution, and work for 15 minutes ; 
wash in water, and then in another tub of 
warm water in which sufficient soap has been 
dissolved to raise a lather, and then dry. 

153. Common Red. Make a decoction 
of 3 pounds sumach, and put the goods in at 
once ; let them steep over night ; wiing out 
and work for an hour in a mixtm-e of 1 gill 
red spuits {see No. 108), to every gallon 
water ; wring out and wash well ; then work 
for half an hour in a decoction of 3 pounds 
limawood and 1 pound fustic, using this de- 
coction as hot as the hand can bear it ; lift, 
and add 1 gill red spirits, then work for 15 
minutes more ; wash out and dry. 

154. Barwood Red. To a decoction of 
2 pounds sumach, add a wine-glassful of 
vitriol, and steep the goods in it for 6 hours ; 
wring out and work for an hour in red spirit 
{see No. 108), diluted to 2° Baume; wring 
out and wash, then pass through a tub of 
warm water ; put 10 pounds barwood into a 
boiler with water and bring i' near to the 
boil, then put in the goods and work among 
the wood grains for f hour; lift out, wash, 
wring and dry. Deeper shades may be dyed 
by using larger quantities of the materials in 
each operation. 

155. Scarlet. For 1 pound of goods, 



well, and work for 20 minutes longer ; then [ bod If ounces cream of tartar in water in a 



THE ART OF DYEING 



37 



block-tin vessel; add If ounces tin spirits, 
made according to the first receipt in Xo. 113; 
boil for 3 minutes, then boil the goods in it 
for 2 hours; drain and let the goods cool. 
Xext boil i ounce cream of tartar for a few 
minutes in some water; add to it 1 ounce 
powdered cochineal, boil for 5 minutes, adding 
gradually 1 ounce tin spirits, stirring well all 
the time; then put in the goods and dye im- 
mediately. 

156. "Common Crunson. Steep over 
night in a decoction of 3 pounds sumach; 
work in spirits • diluted 2^ Baume, wash and 
then work for 30 minutes in a decoction of 3 
pounds limawood and 1 pound logwood; lift, 
and add a giU of red spirits {see Xo. 108); 
work for 15 minutes; wash and dry, A beau- 
tiful red crimson is obtained by omitting the 
logwood; and a diversity of "tints dyed by 
varying the proportions of the limawood and 
logwood. 

157. Light Straw. To a tub of cold 
water add 4 ounces acetate of lead in solution, 
work the goods in this for 15 miuutes, and 
wring out; then work for 10 minutes in an- 
other tub of water containing 2 ounces bi- 
chromate of potassa; wring out, and work 
again in the lead solution for 10 minutes; 
wash and dry. 

158. lieghom. This tint is dyed in the 
same manner as the last, but adding -^ pint 
of annotto liquor {see Xo. 95) to the chrome 
solution. Different shades may be obtained 
by using more or less of these stuffs, without 
varying'the mode of working. 

159. Annotto Orange. Heat the an- 
notto solution {see Xo. 95) to about 140= 
Fahr.; work the goods in it for 20 miuutes; 
wring out thoroughly in order to economize 
the liquor, wash in a couple of waters and 
dry. If the goods are then passed through 
water with safficient acid to taste sour, a very 
red orange, almost scarlet, is obtained, but the 
tint fades quickly. 

160. Logwood Blue. Dye first a light 
blue with the vat {see Xo. 130), then soak the 
goods for several hours in a hot decoction of 
2 pounds sumach; then work for 15 minutes 
in water containing 1 pint red liquor {see 
Xo. 100) and 1 pint iron liquor {see Xo. 113); 
wash in two waters, hot; then work for 20 
minutes in a decoction of 2 pounds logwood; 
lift, and add -J- pint red liquor, and work again 
for 10 minutes; wash and dry. 

161. Fustic Green on Yam. Dye a 
blue with the vat {see Xo. 130), wash and 
wring, and then pass through red liquor {see 
Xo. 100) diluted to 4° Baume; wash through 
a tub of hot water, and then work for 20 min- 
utes in a decoction of 4 pounds fustic; Hft, 
and add 2 ounces alum in solution; work for 
15 minutes, wash and diy. 

163. Fustic Green on Cloth. Work 
the goods in red liquor {see Xo. 100) diluted 
to 4-^ Baume, and dry in a hot chamber; then 
wet in hot water and work for 20 minutes m 
a decoction of 3 pounds fustic; lift, and add 
^, ounces alum in solution; work again for 15 
minutes; wring out and work in chemic (a so- j 
lution of sulphate of indigo whose acid has 
been neutralized with carbonate of soda); 
wring out and drv. ! 

163. Dark Green on Cloth. After the i 
goods have been cleaned, work them for 10 [ 



minutes inred liquor {see Xo. 100) at 5° Baume; 
wring out, and pass through a tub of hot water; 
then work for half an hour in a decoction ot 
3 pounds bark; lift, and add i pint red liquor 
{see Xo. 100); work 10 minutes longer, then 
lift and drain; work next for 20 minutes in a 
tub of cold water containing 5 gallons chemic 
{see last receipt); wring out and dry. The 
depth of shade can be varied by increasing or 
diminishing the quantities of material in pro- 
portion. 

164. Green with Prussian Blue. 
Dye a good Prussian blue {see Xo. 131) accord- 
ing to the depth of green required; then work 
10 minutes in red liquor {see Xo. 100) at 4*^ 
Baume; wash in warm water, and work for 
half an hour in a decoction of 3 pounds fustic; 
lift, and add 2 ounces alum in solution; work 
again for 10 minutes, wash and dry. A finer 
tint can be obtained by using bark instead, of 
fustic, but it must not be worked too warm. 

165. Sage Green. Dye a Prussian blue 
{see Xo. 131), and work 10 minutes in a solu- 
tion of 2 pounds of alum; wring out, and 
work 15 minutes in a decoction of 1 pound 
fustic; lift, and add a pint of the alum solution 
ah'eady used; work 10 minutes; wash and dry. 

166. Olive or Bottle Green. Dye "a 
good shade of Prussian blue {see Xo. 131); 
then mordant 10 minutes in red liquor {see 
Xo. 100) at 5° Baume; wring out and wash 
in hot water; then work half an hour in a 
decoction of 3 pounds fustic and 1 pound 
sumach, then add i pint of iron liquor {see 
Xo. 118), and work 15 minutes ; wash in a tub 
containing 2 ounces alum, and dry. 

167. OHve or Bottle Green — Another 
Method. TTork the goods in red liquor {see 
Xo. 100) at 5*^ Baume, wash out in warm wa- 
ter; then work for half an hour in a decoction 
of 3 pounds bark and 1 pound sumach; lift, 
and add i pint iron liquor {see Xo. 118), and 
work 15 minutes; wring out and work 15 min- 
utes in the chemic {see Xo. 162); wring out 
and dry. 

168. Olive Green. Dye a Prussian blue 
{see Xo. 131); then work for 10 minutes in 
red liquor {see Xo. 100) at 4^ Baume; wash in 
hot water, and work in a decoction of 3 
pounds bark and 1 pound logwood; lift, and 
add ^ pint red liquor, and work 10 minutes; 
wash and dry. By varying the proportions o{ 
bark and logwood, different shades of green 
may be obtained. 

li the goods be yam, a light blue may be 
dyed by the vat {see Xo. 130) instead of the 
Prussian blue, and proceeded with as above. 

169. Lilac or Puce. TTork for an hour 
in red spirits {sec Xo. 108) at 1^"^ Baume; 
wring out and wash; then work half an hour 
in a decoction of 3 pounds logwood at about 
140^ Fahi-.; lift, and add 1 gill red spirits, and 
work 20 minutes; wash and dry. Half a pint 
red liquor {see Xo. 100) or 2 ounces alum, 
may be added to the logwood after lifting, in- 
stead of the red spirit. 

170. Lilac or Puce. TTork for 15 min- 
utes in red Hquor {see Xo. 100) at 5° Baume; 
wring out and wash in a tub of warm water; 
then work half an hour in a decoction of 2 
pounds logwood at 140° Fahr.; lift, and add 
\ pint red liquor, or 2 ounces alum ; work 10 
minutes, and wash in clean warm water; 
wring out and dry. 



THE ART OF DYEING. 



171. Light Pxirple or Adelaide. Steep 
the goods in a decoction of 2 pounds sumach ; 
wring out, and work half an hour in plumb 
spirit {see No. Ill) ; wring out, and wash in 
clean cold water until no taste of acid is left 
on the goods, and dry. 

When working with the plumb spirit, it is 
advisable to put a sufficiency of it into a 
separate vessel for working the goods, return- 
ing the liquor afterwards to the plumb tub. 

172. Light Purple. Steep in a decoc- 
tion of 2 pounds sumach ; wring out and work 
for 20 minutes in red spirits {see No. 108) at 
1^° Baume; wash well and then work in plumb 
spirit, and finish the same as the last receipt. 

173. Purple. Steep in a decoction of 2 
pounds sumach until cool ; work in red spirits 
{see No. 108) at 1^° Baum6 for an hour, and 
wash in cold water ; then work for half an 
hour in a decoction of 3 pounds logwood at 
140° Fahr.; lift, and add 1 gill red spirits, and 
work 10 minutes more ; wash in cold water 
and dry. 

If a browner tint is required, use a little 
more sumach; for a bluer tint, use less 
sumach and more logwood; and add, after 
lifting, i pint red liquor {see No. 100), or 2 
ounces alum, instead of red spirits. 

174. Lavender or Peach. Work for 
20 minutes in plumb spirit {see No. Ill) ; 
wring out, and wash in clean cold water till 
free from acid taste, and dry. 

175. Logwood, Lilac or Puce. Dye a 
good shade of Prussian blue {see No. 131); 
then work 15 minutes in a decoction of 1 
pound logwood at 140° Fahr.; lift, and add 4 
ounces alum ; work 10 minutes, then wash in 
cold water and dry. 

176. Logwood Lilac. Dye a sky blue 
{see No. 131) ; then work for 15 minutes in a 
tub of warm water containing 1 gallon alum 
plumb {see No. 114) ; wring out and dry. 

177. Common Drab. Work for 15 
minutes in a decoction of i a pound sumach ; 
lift, and add 1 ounce copperas in solution, 
and work 15 minutes more ; wash out in a 
tub of cold water, then work 15 minutes in a 
decoction of 4 ounces fustic, 2 ounces lima- 
wood, and 1 ounce logwood; lift, and add 1 
ounce alum in solution; work 10 minutes, 
then wring out and dry. 

A great variety of different tints can be 
produced by varying the proportion of the 
limawood, fustic, and logwood; and lighter 
or darker shades by diminishing or increasing 
the quantities of sumach and copperas. 

178. Olive Drab. Work for 15 minutes 
in i pound sumach; lift, and add 1 ounce 
copperas, and work 15 minutes more; wash 
in water, then work for 20 minutes in water 
with ^ pound fustic; lift, and add 1 ounce 
alum, and work for 10 minutes and dry. 

179. Drab. To a tub of hot water add 
1 pint annotto preparation {see No. 95), 
which gives a light salmon color ; then pro- 
ceed as for olive drab in last receipt. By 
varying the quantities a great variety of tints 
may be obtained. 

180. Stone Color. Work the goods 20 
minutes in a decoction of 1 pound sumach ; 
lift, and add 1 ounce copperas in solution ; 
work for 15 minutes, and wash in cold water ; 
then work 10 minutes in warm water con- 
tainiQg ^ pint alum plumb {see No. 114); 



wring out and dry. This gives a reddish 
tint, which may be avoided by using a solu- 
tion of i ounce of alum instead of the alum 
plumb. 

181. Catechu Stone Drab. Work the 
goods 15 minutes in hot water containing 2 
pints prepared catechu {see No. 96) ; lift, and 
add 2 ounces copperas in solution ; work for 
15 minutes, and wash in water, then work for 
10 minutes in a tub of warm water containing 
a decoction of 2 ounces logwood ; lift, and 
add i ounce alum; work 10 minutes more, 
wring out and dry. 

182. Catechu Drab. Work for 15 min- 
utes in hot water containing 1 pint prepared 
catechu {see No. 96) ; lift, and add 1 ounce 
copperas; work 10 minutes; wash out and 
dry. A variety of tints may be obtained by 
finishing in a weak decoction of one or other 
of the different dye-woods. 

183. Chrome Dyes for Cotton Goods. 
The following recipes will serve to illustrate 
the use and value of chrome (bichromate of 
potassa) as a dyeing agent. The quantities 
given are for dyeing 10 pounds weight of cot- 
ton, and may be increased or diminished in 
proportion, according to the quantity of goods 
to be dyed. 

184. Light Straw. To a tub of cold 
water add 4 ounces acetate of lead, previously 
dissolved; work the goods through this for 
15 minutes, and wring out ; into another tub 
of water add 2 ounces bichromate of potassa ; 
work the goods through this 10 minutes, 
wring out and pass again through the lead 
solution for 10 minutes ; wash and dry. 

185. Lemon Color. Into a tub of cold 
water put 1 pound acetate of lead, previously 
dissolved ; work the goods in this for 15 min- 
utes, and wring out ; into another tub of cold 
water put 6 ounces bichromate of potassa in 
solution; work the goods for 15 minutes 
through this, and wring out ; then work it 10 
minutes in the lead solution ; wring out, wash, 
and dry. 

186. Deep Yellow. To a tub of cold 
water add 1 pound acetate of lead, and 1 
pound nitrate of lead in solution ; work the 
goods in this for 30 minutes, and wring out ; 
then to a tub of warm water add 12 ounces 
bichromate of potassa, and work the goods in 
it for 15 minutes ; expose to the air for half 
an hour, then pass again through both solu- 
tions, working them the same time in each as 
before, and expose to the air for one hour ; 
then pass them through the lead solution; 
wring out, wash and dry. If the color is not 
deep enough they may be passed through the 
solutions again, observing the same rules. 

187. Deep Amber Yellow. Put into 
a tub of water 1 pound acetate of lead, and to 
this add gradually caustic potassa or soda, 
until the precipitate formed be re-dissolved, 
taking care not to add more alkali than is re- 
quired for this solution; work the goods in 
this for 30 minutes ; wring out, and work for 
15 minutes in another tub of water to which 
8 ounces bichromate of potassa has been 
added in solution ; wring out, wash and dry. 
2 or 3 ounces sulphate of zinc may be added 
to the chrome solution with good effect. If a 
deep red amber be requu-ed, add to the 
chrome solution ^ pint muriatic acid. 

188. Chrome Green. Dye a blue by 



THE ART OF DYEING. 



39 



the process described in ISTo, 131 ; then dye a 
yellow according to the last receipt. The 
depth of the blue and yellow will regulate the 
tint of green. 

The principal difficulty is when a particular 
depth or shade of green is wanted, to ascer- 
tain the exact shade of blue to be given, as 
blue cannot be added upon the yellow. This 
is a matter which can only be learned by 
practice. 

1 89. French Process for Dyeing Tur- 
key-Red. The following process for dyeing 
turkey-red, is the one in general use in 
France at present. 

The quantities of materials, <fec., given, are 
for dyeing 2200 pounds of cotton, which has 
already, it is assumed, been subjected to 
thorough washing and scorning in soap. 

Dissolve 20 to 22 pounds carbonate of 
potassa in about 330 gallons of water, and 
provide for future use 1300 to 1400 pounds of 
fat oil ; next divide the goods to be dyed iuto 
three equal portions. 

The first step in the process is oiling the 
goods ; mix together one-third part of the fat 
oil and of the solution of potassa, stirring by 
degrees into the oil sufficient solution to pro- 
duce an emulsion; this makes the ichite 
liquor. 

One-third of the goods are padded, that is, 
drawn through evenly backwards and for- 
wards, in this white liquor ; then take them 
out and lay together in a heap in a fresh cool 
place for 10 or 12 hours, and dry in an atmo- 
sphere heated to 140° Fahr. 

"While the first portion of the goods is dry- 
ing, prepare a second jportion of white liquor, 
and subject a second portion of the goods to 
the same operation as the first ; the remaining 
portion of the goods is in tm-n subjected to 
the same treatment, using the remainder of 
the fat oil for a third tub of white liquor ; by 
this means the process proceeds without inter- 
mission, each portion being under different 
stages of treatment simultaneously. 

This routine is repeated several times 
(generally seven or eight) on each poi-tion, 
each always in its own tub, according to the 
quantity of oil which it is deshed to fix on 
the goods. If the bath begins to fail, either 
a little tepid water is added, or a certain 
quantity of old ivMte liquor proceeding from 
the washings. 

The next stage is to remove superfluous 
oil; this is done by macerating the goods 
twice, successively, for 24 hom-s each time, 
in a solution of carbonate of potassa at 1° 
Baume. The liquid which is wrung or 
pressed out of them constitutes the old white 
liquor, which may be employed again for 
fiUing up m the oiling operation. The goods 
are then carefully rinsed. 

The third process is galling or mordanting. 
Bruise 22 pounds gall-nuts, and boil repeat- 
edly until thoroughly drawn ; add sufficient 
water to make up to 66 gallons ; dissolve in 
this 35 pounds alum with the assistance of 
heat. This is sufficient for working one- half, 
that is, 1100 pounds of the cotton, which 
must be padded in the liquid at a temperature 
of about 160° Fahr.; it is next suspended for 
2 days in a drying-room heated to 112° Fahr,, 
and then passed into a hot concentrated bath 
of chalk. Care must be taken to work the 



goods very equally in this bath, in order to 
avoid streaking. The goods are then washed, 
and present a fawn-colored appearance. 

The fourth step is the first dyeing. This is 
performed on 10 pieces at a time, the propor- 
tions of madder varying according to the 
breadth and length of the pieces, from 13, 15, 
17 to 20 pounds madder for each piece. As 
in the preceding process, the madder is 
divided iuto two equal portions, one portion 
being used for the first dyeing, and the other 
portion reserved for the second dyeing. The 
one portion is mixed with the requisite quan- 
tity of water, from 300 to 400 gallons ; the 10 
pieces are introduced into this bath at a tepiS. 
heat, and kept in it 3 hours, the temperatm-e 
being gradually increased, untO, at the end of 
2f hours, boiling point is reached ; and this 
heat is sustained for the remaining ^ hour. 
The goods must then be washed, thoroughly 
cleansed, rinsed and dried. 

The fifth stage is the second galling ; which 
is prepared in the same gaU liquid, and in the 
same manner as the first galling, finishing 
with the chalk bath, washing and drying. 

The sixth operation is the seco^cZ dyeing, an 
exact repetition of the first dyeing, using the 
remaining half of the madder reserved for this 
purpose. 

The seventh step, first clearing, is per- 
formed in a close boiler, two-thirds filled with 
water containing in solution 13 pounds soap, 
and 3^ pounds carbonate of potassa; the 
goods are boiled in this for 8 hom*s. 

The eighth process is a second clearing, con- 
ducted in the same manner as the first clear- 
ing, but dissolving in the water 14^ pounds 
soap, and 14 ounces chloride of tin instead of 
the j)otassa solution. 

For only very lively reds a third clearing, 
similar to the second, is required. The goods, 
after clearing, are exposed for some time in 
the air; then worked through a bran bath, 
which adds to the brightness of the color. 

The process here described is slightly modi- 
fied by some French dyers ; thus, experience 
proves that the oil is better fixed in the stuff 
when the drying is not performed too rapidly; 
and there are some who, when the season 
does not admit of exposm-e to the air, heap 
the pieces together, after oiling, in a drying- 
room heated to 95° Fahr., turning them over 
from time to time to prevent injury from 
overheating. Some use ox-blood in the pro- 
portion of 40 pounds blood to 100 pounds 
madder. 

190. Violet. Dye a turkey red {see No. 
189), and then pass through the blue vat. 
{See No. 130.) 

191. Preparation and Dyeing of 
"Woolens. To prepare new woolen goods 
for dyeing, the cloth or yam (if the latter, it 
is first banded with tvrine into spindles, see 
No. 122,) is steeped over night in soap lye, 
and then scoured through clean soap to re- 
move all oil or grease that may be upon the 
wool. Instead of soap, a scouring mixture 
may be prepared with 1 pound soft soap and 
1 pound common soda (or i pound soda-ash), 
in 10 gallons water. 

Goods to be re-dyed must first be steeped 
and scoured in soap and soda. If the re- 
maining color be unequal or dark, the goods 
must be worked for a short time in a sour, 



4.0 



TSE ABT OF DYEING. 



made by dissolving 2 ounces bisulphate of 
potassa in eacli gallon of water used. Woolen, 
goods are always dyed hot, as near boiling 
point as possible ; this necessitates the use of 
boilers, which should be of copper, or copper 
and tin, as iron will not answer the purpose. 
The dye-stuffs are generally put in the boiler, 
and the goods worked with it, but it is cleaner 
to make decoctions {see No. 94), and use the 
clear liquor. All washings are to be in cold 
water unless otherwise specified. The quan- 
tities given in the following receipts are for 
dyeing 10 pounds of woolen goods, either 
cloth or yarn, unless otherwise specified. 

192. Black. "Work io\ 20 minutes in a 
bath with 8 ounces camwood ; lift, and add 8 
ounces copperas ; work 20 minutes more, then 
withdraw the fire from the boiler, and sub- 
merge the goods in the liquor over night, 
then wash out. Work for an hour in another 
bath containing a decoction of 5 pounds log- 
wood and 1 pint chamber lye ; lift, and add 
4 ounces copperas ; work for 30 minutes long- 
er, wash and dry. 

193. Brown. "Work for an hour in a 
bath made up with 2 pounds fustic, 2 pounds 
madder, 1 pound peachwood, and 4 ounces of 
logwood; lift, and add 2 ounces copperas; 
work for 30 minutes, wash and dry. 

194. Brown Dye. The different shades 
of this dye vary from pale yellow and reddish 
brown up to very dark brown, almost black, 
every shade of which, however, may be pro- 
duced, as the taste of the workman may dic- 
tate, by mixtm*es of reds and yellows with 
Uues and blacks, or by simple dyes, which at 
^nce impart a brown, — as catechu, walnut 
?inds, or oxide of manganese. 

Boil the cloth in a mordant of alum and 
common salt dissolved in water, then dye it 
in a bath of logwood, to which a little green 
copperas has been added. The proportion of 
alum should be 2 ounces, and of salt 1 ounce, 
to every pound of cloth. 

Or boil the goods in a mordant of alum 
and sulphate of iron, then rinse them through 
a bath of madder. The tint depends on the 
relative proportions of the alum and copperas; 
the more of the latter, the darker will be the 
dye. The joint weight of the two should not 
exceed ^ of the weight of the wool. The best 
proportions are 2 parts of alum and 3 of cop- 
peras. 

For other receipts for dyeing black and 
brown see Index. 

195. Crimson. "Work in a bath for one 
hour with 1 pound cochineal paste, 6 ounces 
dry cochineal, 1 pound tartar, and 1 pint pro- 
tochloride (single chloride) of tin; wash out 
and dry. 

196. Scarlet. Work for an hour in a 
bath with 1 pound tartar, 2 ounces dry cochi- 
neal, 8 ounces sumach and 8 ounces fustic ; 
wash out and dry. 

197. Red. Work for 30 minutes in a 
bath made up with 1 ounce chrome and 1 
ounce alum ; wash in cold water ; then work 
/or 30 minutes in another bath with three 
pounds peachwood or limawood ; lift, and add 
1 ounce alum ; work for 20 minutes ; wash 
and dry. 

198. Claret Red. Work for an hour in 
& ounces camwood ; lift, and expose the good 
until well drained and cold ; meanwhile, add 



to the camwood bath 4 ounces copperas, 2 
ounces alum, and 8 ounces logwood; work 
the goods for 30 minutes, wash and dry. 

199. Scarlet. For every 100 pounds of 
fabric, boil, in a suitable kettle, 11 pounds 
ground Honduras cochineal, 5 pounds half-re- 
fined tartar or 3 pounds tartaric acid, 2 pounds 
oxalic acid, 1 pound tin crystals, 1^ pounds 
flavine, 10 pounds scarlet spirit {see beloiv). 
After it has boiled for about fifteen minutes, 
cool the dye to 180° Fah., enter the goods, 
handle then, quickly at first, and let them 
boil slowly for 1 hour, when they will be a 
good scarlet. Take them out, cool, and rinse 
in cold water. If it should happen that the 
wool or flannel shows some white hair, which 
is generally the case when new wool is used, 
then add 5 pounds of raw muriatic acid to the 
dye. This powerful agent wiU work wonders 
in scarlets, oranges, and pinks, as it tans tho 
wool, which is perhaps a little greasy, and pre- 
vents the tin crystals from fastening too 
quickly to it, and thereby evener colors are 
obtained. This latter fact is very valuable, 
and not generally known. 

Scarlet spirit is thus prepared: Take 16 
;^ounds muriatic acid 22° Baume, 1 pound 
feathered tin, 2 pounds water. The acid 
should be put in a stoneware pot, and the tin 
added, and allowed to dissolve ; the mixtm'e 
should be kept a few days before using. 

200. Lac Scarlet. Work for 30 minutes 
in a bath with 1 pound tartar, 8 ounces su- 
mach, and 2 pounds lac ; lift, and add about a 
giU of bichloride of tin ; work for 30 minutes, 
wash and dry. 

201. Pink. Work for an hour in a bath 
made up with 1 pound tartar, 8 ounces alum, 
1 pound cochineal paste, and 1 gill red spirits 
{see No. 108) ; wash in cold water and dry. 

202. Yellow. Work for 20 minutes in a 
bath of water containing 8 ounces tartar and 
8 ounces alum ; lift, and add 2 pounds bark, 
8 ounces sumach, 8 ounces fustic, and 1 pint 
red spirits {see No. 108) ; work in this for 40 
minutes, wash out and dry. 

203. Orange. Work for 40 minutes in 2 
pounds sumach, 3 ounces dry cochineal, 1 
pound fastic, 8 oiid.c^< tartar, and 1 pint red 
spirits {see No. 108) ; wash and dry. 

204. Sky Blue. Work for 30 minutes 
in a bath containing 8 ounces argol, 1 pound 
alum, and 1 gill indigo extract {see No. 99) ; 
wash out and dry. The shade of blue will de- 
pend on the quantity of indigo extract used. 

For other shades of blue see Index. 

205. Pigeon Blue. Work for 40 min- 
utes in 2 ounces chrome (bichromate of potash), 
4 ounces alum, and 1 ounce tartar ; wash out 
in cold water, and then work for 30 minutes 
in another bath made up with 3 pounds log- 
wood ; lift, and add 1 ounce vercfigiis ; work 
for 15 minutes, wash and dry. 

206. Apple Green. Work for 30 min- 
utes in a bath with one ounce chrome and 1 
ounce alum ; wash through cold water, then 
work for 30 minutes in another bath with 2 
pounds fustic and 8 ounces logwood; wash 
and dry. Different proportions of the mate- 
rials used will produce different shades, 

207. Green. Work for 15 minutes in 5 
pounds fustic, 2 ounces argol, and 5 ounces 
alum ; lift, and add i gill of indigo exti-act 
{see No. 99) ; work for 30 minutes and dry. 



THE ABT OF DYEING. 



4:1 



More or less indigo extract "will make the 
green bluer or yellower, as required. 

208. Fast Green. First dye a blue in 
the indigo vat {see 2so. 130) according to the i 
depth of the green required ; then work for ' 
an hour in a bath ^vith 4 pounds fustic and 2 
pounds alum ; dry out. 

209. Olive. Work for an horn- in a bath 
made up Avith 10 ounces fustic, 8 ounces log- 
wood, 4 ounces madder, and 2 ounces peach- 
wood ; lift, and add 4 ounces copperas in so- 
lution ; work for 30 minutes and dry. 

210. Wine Color. Work for an hour in 
a bath with 4 pounds cudbear, and dry. For 
a darker shade use more cudbear. If the tint 
be desired bluer, add, after 30 minutes work- 
ing, 1 gill ammonia; if a redder tint is 
wanted, add a wine-glassful of hydrochloric 
acid ; but if this last be used, the goods must 
be washed out before drying. 

211. Light Violet.^ Work for an horn- 
in a bath with 4 ounces cudbear, 4 ounces 
logwood, 2 ounces barwood or camwood, and 
2 ounces peachwood ; lift, and add 2 ounces 
alum in solution, work for 30 minutes and 
dry. 

212. Lilac or Puce. Work in a bath 
for one hour with 10 ounces logwood, 1 ounce 
camwood and 8 pounds cudbear ; lift, and add 
2 ounces copperas in solution ; work for half 
an hour and dry. 

213. Brown Drab. Work for 30 min- 
utes in a bath with 2 ounces ground madder, 
1 ounce peachwood, 2 ounces logwood, and 
6 ounces fustic ; lift, and add 3 ounces cop- 
peras in solution; mix well and work the 
goods for 30 minutes more ; then wash and 
dry. The shade can be adjusted to suit, 
varying the quantities and proportions of the 
dye-woods. 

214. Properties of Dye-woods. Peach- 
wood reddens, madder gives the drab tint, 
fustic supplies yellowness, and logwood in- 
duces a slate hue. 

215. Stone Drab. Work the goods for 
20 minutes in a bath containing 1 ounce 
peachwood or limawood, 2 ounces logwood 
and ^ ounce fustic ; lift, and add 1 ounce cop- 
peras in solution ; stir well and work in this 
for 30 miautes ; lift out and expose to the air 
for a short time ; wash and dry. Different 
shades are made by varjing the quantities of 
the dye-woods. {See last receipt.) 

216. Slate. Work for half an hour in a 
bath with 8 ounces logwood and 1 ounce fus- 
tic ; lift, and add 1 ounce alum and I ounce 
copperas in solution ; work for half an hour ; 
wash and dry. For a bluer tint, use less alum 
and more copperas ; for more purple, use less 
fustic and more alum, &c. 

217. Blue. Dyeing woolens blue is per- 
formed by dipping in the blue vat {see No. 
130), and then exposing to the air, repeating 
the operation till the desired depth of color is j 
obtained. 

218. Blue Purple. 100 pounds wool 
are first dipped a light blue in the vat, and ] 
well rinsed. Then take a stone pot, put in 3 > 
pounds tartar, 3 pounds feathered tin, 5 1 
pounds blue vitriol, and 20 pounds muriatic 
acid ; heat all in a sand bath until dissolved. I 

From this mordant take 10 pounds in a suit- j 
able kettle; add 5 pounds tartar to it, stir it ' 
weU, and enter the wool at 170^ Fahi*.; let it i 



boil for 1 hour; take it out, cool, and let it 
lay for 24 hours. Then boil out 20 pounds 
good logwood for f hour in fresh water ; cool 
off the kettle to 150° Fahr., enter the wool, 
and handle it well for an hour, then heat it 
up to 185° Fahr., but do not let it boil; let it 
go for 1 hour more, when it wiU be a dark 
purple. This color stands the sun remarkably 
well, perhaps owing to the fact that there is 
not any alum or sulphuric acid used, except 
that contained in the blue vitriol. 

219. Blue Purple, Fast Color. 100 
pounds of wool are tirst dipped in the blue 
vat to a Kght shade, then boiled in a solution 
of 15 pounds alum, and 3 pounds half-refined 
tartar, for 1^ hours; the wool taken out, 
cooled, and let stand 24 hours. Then boil in 
fresh water 8 pounds powdered cochineal for 
a few minutes ; cool the kettle to 170° Fahr.; 
handle the prepared wool in this for 1 hour, 
in which time let it boil for f hom-, when it is 
ready to cool, rinse, and dry. By coloring 
first with cochineal, as above, and finishing 
in the blue vat, the fast purple, or dahlia, so 
much admired in German broadcloths, wiU be 
produced. 

220. Royal Blue Dye for Woolen 
Goods. Woolens may be dyed different 
shades of blue with nitrate of iron, observing 
the general rule that woolens must be worked 
at a boiling heat. 

To dye 5 pounds of woolen goods — work 
for 20 minutes in a bath with 1 pound ferro- 
cyanide of potassium, and lift; then take ^ 
puit nitrate of u-on and add to it 1 ounce crys- 
tals of till (or 1 puit chloride of tin); stir 
well for a few minutes and then add this mix- 
ture to the bath, and work the goods in this 
for 30 minutes ; wash out and dry. For vari- 
ous shades of color, increase or diminish the 
quantities in proportion. 

221. Chrome Dyes for "Woolen Goods. 
The quantities given in the following receipts 
are for dyeing 5 pounds of woolen goods, un- 
less otherwise stated. It must be understood 
that the goods must be cleaned before dye- 
ing, and the dyeing must always be performed 
at a boiling heat. 

222. Black. Work for 1 hour in a bath 
with 8 oances bichromate of potassa, 6 
ounces alum, and 4 ounces fustic; Lift, and 
expose to the air for a short time ; wash well, 
and then work for 1 hour in another bath with 
4 pounds logwood, 4 ounces barwood, and 
4 ounces fustic ; hft, and add 4 ounces cop- 
peras in solution ; work half an horn- in this, 
and then wash and dry. In order to dye a 
blue black, the goods inust be first dyed blue 
by the vat (.see ^'o. 130) or otherwise, and then 
proceeded with as for black, only using less ma- 
terials. 

223. Brown. Work for half an hour in 
8 ounces of bichromate of potassa ; lift, and 
expose till cold; then work an hour in 2 
pounds fustic, 4 ounces madder, 3 ounces cud- 
bear, 4 ounces tartar, 2 ounces logwood ,• lift 
out and dry; or it may be washed before diy- 
ing 

224. Ricli Yellow Brown. Work for 
an hour in the following bath : 2 ounces bi- 
chromate of potassa, 2 ounces argol, 2 ounces 
alum ; wash from this bath ; then work about 
40 minutes in another bath made up with 2 
pounds fustic, 1 pound madder, b oudccj* 



4.2 



THE ART OF DYEING. 



peaehwood, and 4 ounces logwood ; wash out [ 
and dry. This gives a very beautiful brown ; | 
and a great variety of tints and shades may 
be made by varying the quantities of the last 
bath, the first bath remaining the same. 

225. Rich YeUow. Work for half an 
hour in a bath with 3 ounces bichromate of 
potassa and 2 ounces alum ; lift, and expose 
till well cooled and drained; then work for 
\ hour in another bath with 5 pounds fustic ; 
wash out and dry. 

226. Bottle Green. "Work for an hour 
in a bath with 2 ounces bichromate of po- 
tassa and 4 ounces alum ; lift out and expose 
to the ah till cold; then work for an hour in 
a second bath with 3 pounds fustic, 1^ pounds 
logwood ; wash out and dry. 

227. Invisible Green. Work for an 
hom- in a bath with 3 ounces bichromate of 
potassa, 4 ounces alum: lift, and expose to 
the air for some time ; then work for an horn- 
in a second bath with 2 pounds fustic^ 3^ 
pounds logwood; wash out and dry. By 
comparing these last two receipts it will be 
seen that the dijfferent shades are produced by 
varying the proportions of the same dye-stuffs, 
and will serve as a guide for other shades of 
dark green. 

228. Olive. Work for an hom* in a bath 
with 4 ounces chrome, 2 ounces alum; lift 
and expose to the air ; then work for an horn- 
in a bath with 3 pounds fustic, 1^ pounds 
camwood, 1 pound logwood ; lift out and dry. 

229. Purple. Work the goods half an 
hour in a bath with 1 ounce bichromate of 
potassa, 1 ounce alum ; lift out and wash in 
cold water ; and then work half an hour in a 
bath with 2 pounds logwood, 1 pound peach- 
wood ; lift, and add 1 ounce alum in solution ; 
work in this for 20 minutes ; wash and dry. 
If a lighter and redder shade be requhed, use 
less logwood and more peachwood. For a 
darker shade use more of each. 

230. Rich. Green Drab. Work the 
goods 30 minutes in a bath with 1 ounce 
bichromate of potassa, ^ ounce alum, ^ ounce 
tartar ; lift out and wash in cold water ; then 
work for half an hour in another bath with 
4 ounces logwood, 2 ounces fustic, 1 ounce 
barwood (or i ounce peachwood) ; wash and 
dry. The shades of this can be varied by 
using different proportions of the stuffs. 

231. Rich Drab. Work for 30 minutes 
in i ounce bichromate of potassa; lift, and 
add 1 ounce of logwood ; work in this for 30 
minutes; lift out, wash and dry. Different 
proportions will produce different shades of 
color. 

232. Chrome Blue. 100 pounds of 
wool are boiled for one hour in a solution of 
3 pounds bichromate of potash, 6 pounds 
alum, 1 pound half-refined tartar ; then it is 
taken out, cooled, and rinsed. Boil 6 pounds 
good logwood in a bag for half an hour hi 
fresh water, add 3 pounds cudbear, well 
moistened and dissolved. Cool the dye to 
180° Fahr. Enter the prepared wool, and 
handle it for f of an hour ; bring it to a boil 
in this time. This color ought to be always 
left a shade lighter when finished, as all 
chrome colors darken in drying. 

In the foregoing receipts, the quantity of 
water to be used is not material, but will be 
regulated according to the size of the vessel 



and the amount of goods to be dyed, but there 
should always be enough water" to cover the 
goods without the necessity of pressing them 
down. 

Eules for making decoctions, &q.. will be 
found in ]^o. 94. 

233. Preparing and Dyeing* Silk. 
!N"ew sUk is banded in the same manner as 
cotton {see No. 122), in quantities convenient 
for making up into skeins when finished. 
After banding, it is tied up carefully in fine 
canvas bags and boiled three or four "hours in 
strong soap-water to remove all the gum. 
Yellow silk must be first worked on sticks for 
an hour in a solution of soft soap at a temper- 
ature of about 200° Fahi-., and then boiled in 
bags. It is then washed from the soap and 
put on sticks for dyeing. 

SUk goods to be re-dyed must be steeped in 
a strong soap solution at nearly boiling point 
for a few hours, to remove all stains and 
grease ; they are then washed, and if the color 
on them is light and equal, and they are to be 
dyed dark, then no further preparation is re- 
quired ; but if the color is unequal, they must 
be soaked for 15 minutes in a sour {see No. 
105), and then washed out. 

The quantities given in the following re- 
ceipts are for five pounds of silk. If the 
goods are tightly spun, such as ribbons, dress 
silk, (fee, the quantities must be shghtly in- 
creased. 

There must be sufficient water used to 
cover the goods laying loosely. When goods 
are washed from the dye, it is always to be in 
cold water, unless otherwise stated. 

234. Black. Work for an horn- in a 
solution of 8 ounces copperas ; wash well out 
in cold water ; then work in a decoction of 4 
pounds logwood, adding to it i pint chamber 
lye ; lift, and add 2 ounces copperas in solli- 
tion ; work 15 minutes, wash and dry. 

This gives a good black, but not very deep. 

235. Deep Black. Work for an hour 
in a solution of 8 ounces copperas (sulphate 
of iron), and 2 fluid ounces nitrate of hon ; 
and, after washing out, work in the decoction 
of logwood and chamber lye, as in the last re- 
ceipt, finishing as there directed. 

236. Blue Black. If a blue hlacJi is re- 
quired, follow the same directions, bnt add a 
little white soap, instead of the chamber lye, 
to the logwood decoction, and add no copper- 
as after lifting. 

237. FuU Deep Black. Work for 1 
hour in a solution of 1 pound copperas and 2 
ounces nitrate of iron; wash out, and work 
for an hour in a decoction of 5 pounds log- 
wood and 1 pound fustic; Ifft, and add 2 
ounces copperas, and work 10 minutes ; wash 
and finish. If the color is not deep enough^ 
add a little more logwood before hfting. 

238. French Black. Work for an hour 
in a solution of 1 pound copperas and 4 
ounces alum ; wash out weU, then work for 
an hour in a decoction of 4 pounds logwood, 
with a little white soap added ; wash out and 
finish. 

239. Blue Black by Prussiate. Dye 
a deep Prussian blue according to receipt 
]^o. 131, and work, from the prussiate, for 
half an hour, in 8 ounces copperas ; wash weU 
out in cold water, and then work for half an 
hour in a decoction of 2 pounds logwood.' 



THE AET Ot DYEING 



4z3 



lift, and add a little of the copperas solution 
first used, then work for 10 minutes more ; 
wash and dry. 

240. Deep Hat Black. Work for 15 
minutes in a decoction of 2 pounds fustic and 
1 pound bark ; lift, and add 6 ounces acetate 
of copper and 6 ounces copperas in solution ; 
work for 15 minutes more ; then sink the silk 
below the surface and let it steep over night ; 
lift out and wash ; then, to a decoction of 5 
pounds logwood, add white soap sufficient to 
make a lather, and work the silk in it for an 
hour ; wash out and dry. 

241. Brown. Dye an annotto orange 
{see No. 159) ; then work for 20 minutes in a 
decoction of 3 pounds fustic, 8 ounces sumach 
and 8 ounces peachwood ; lift, and add 3 
ounces copperas in solution, and work for 15 
minutes ; wash out in two waters, adding ^ pint 
alum solution in the last water. If tlie par- 
ticular tint is not obtained, it may be given in 
the last alum- wash by adding as follows : 
for yellowness, a little fustic ; for redness, a 
little peachwood ; for depth or blueness, log- 
wood. A number of diflerent tints of brown 
may be obtained by varying the proportions 
of fustic, sumach and peachwood. A great 
many particular hues of brown may be dyed 
by this method ; for instance, by using only 
fustic and sumach in the second operation, a 
California brown is obtained, (fee. So that 
any intelligent person may regulate his colors 
and tints. 

242. Red Brown. Dye a deep annotto 
orange {see No. 159) ; then work for 15 min- 
utes in plumb liquor {see No. Ill) ; wash well 
and dry. Particular tints can be made by 
adding fustic, peachwood or logwood to the 
last washing, as described in the last receipt. 

243. lied Brown. Steep the silk for 
an hour in a solution of 8 ounces alum to 
each gallon water, then wash out in waiTa 
water ; next, work half an hour in a decoction 
of 1^ pounds fustic, Impounds peachwood, and 
8 ounces logwood ; lift, and add 1 pint of the 
alum solution; work 10 minutes, wash and 
dry. 

244. Chocolate Brown. Steep the silk 
for an hour in a solution of 1 pound alum to 
each gallon of water; wash once in warm 
water, and then work for half an hour in a 
decoction of 3 pounds peachwood and 1 
pound logwood; lift, and add 1 pint of the 
alum solution, work agaui for 15 minutes ; 
wash out and dry. 

For deeper shades use less peachwood and 
more logwood; for a still deeper tint, add 
about 4 ounces fustic. 

245. Bronze Brown. TTork for half 
an hour in a decoction of 8 ou,.ces fustic, to 
which 4 fluid ounces of archil liquor has been 
added; lift, and add 2 ounces solution of 
copperas ; work 15 minutes, wash and finish. 

246. Cochineal Crimson. To every 
gallon of water used, add about 2 fluid ounces 
bichloride (oxychloride) of tui, allow any sed- 
iment to settle, and warm the clear solution ; 
work the silk in this for an horn* or more. 
Boil 2 pounds cochineal by suspending it in a 
bag on the surface of some water; add this to 
a quantity of water sufficient for working the 
goods, and bring it to a blood heat. TTring i 
the silk from the tin solution and work it in \ 
the cochineal solution for ^ hour; then let it I 



steep for sevtral hours well under the hquor ; 
wash out well in cold water. If the shade ii? 
not blue enough, add to the water a little 
cochineal dissolved in ammonia; work in it for 
10 minutes, wiing out and dry, 

247. Common Red. TTork the good 
for 15 minutes in a decoction of 2 pounds 
peachwood and 1 pound fustic ; lift, and add 
4 fluid ounces red spirits {see No. 108) ; 
work for 15 minutes, wash in cold water and 
finish. 

Different shades are made by varying the 
proportions, and claret tints are obtained by 
adding a little logwood. These common dyes 
are apt to fade. 

248. Cochineal Pink. This is dyed in 
the same manner as cochineal crimson {see 
No. 246), using much less cochineal; about 
half a pound makes a good pink, and inter- 
mediate shades are produced by adjusting the 
jn'oportion of cochineal. 

249. Cochineal Scarlet. First dye a 
deep annotto orange {see No. 159) ; then dye 
a cochineal crimson according to Xo. 246. 

250. Mixture for Dyeing Common 
Reds. Make a strong decoction by boiling 1 
pound limawood or brazilwood to each gal- 
lon of water. Let the wood settle ; decant 
the liquor, and let it stand to cool for 24 hours; 
decant the clear liquor and add i pint plumb 
spirits {see No. Ill) to every gallon of liquor ; 
after standing a few hours it is ready for use. 

251. Common Crimson. Put some of 
the common red mixture {see No. 250) into a 
copper or stoneware vessel, and work the 
goods in it for ^ an hour; then wash out thor- 
oughlv, wring and dry. 

25^. Common Scarlet. Dye an annot- 
to orange {see No. 159), then dye a common 
crimson according to the last receipt. 

253. Ruby, Maroon, <fec. Take 1 
pound cudbear, and boil in a bag for 15 min- 
utes; and work the silk in this for i an hour. 

For a dluish tint, lift, and add 3 fluid ounces 
liquid ammonia ; work 10 minutes, wiing and 
dry. 

For a red tint, lift, and instead of the am- 
monia, add 2 fluid ounces red spirits {see No. 
108) ; work 10 minutes, wring and dry. 

For a hroicnish hue, make a decoction of 1 
pound cudbear and 4 ounces fustic ; work for 
I- an hour ; lift, and add 2 ounces red spir- 
its ; work for 10 minutes and finish. 

For a deep violet hue, proceed as in the last 
receipt, using 4 ounces logwood instead of the 
fustic. 

254. Sky Blue. To 1 pint sulphate of 
indigo add 2 or 3 gallons boiling water ; steep 
in this a piece of woolen cloth, such as an old 
blanket, for a day ; take it out and wash in 
cold water. 

If the sl-y Uiie is required to be lights warm 
some water in a vessel to about 98° Fahr., 
steep the woolen cloth in it for a few minutes, 
and wring out ; this will leave sufficient blue 
in the water to dye the silk ; add 1 ounce 
alum in solution, and work the silk in it for 20 
minutes ; wring out and dry. 

255. Dark Blue. If a deep 6??/^ be re- 
quired, blue the water as before with the 
woolen cloth, add 1 ounce pearlash; then 
add 1 ounce alum in solution, with a few 
drops of salphuric acid; then work the silk ia 
it as before. 



4.4. 



THE ABT OF DYEING. 



Half an ounce of indigo extract {see No. 
99) may be used for bluing the water, instead 
of using tlie woolen cloth for that purpose. 
The exact quantity of indigo extract depends 
on the shade of blue required. 

256. Sky Blue Dye for Silks. For 
5 pounds of silk goods, add to a suffi- 
cient quantity of water to work the goods -J 
pint of nitrate of iron ; work in this for 20 
minutes, then wash ont in cold water. Into 
another vessel of cold water add 3 ounces 
ferrocyanide of potassium in solution, and 1 
fluid ounce of strong sulphuric acid; work 
through this for 10 minutes, then wash in 
cold water with 1 onnce of alum dissolved in 
it, and finish. 

267. Royal Blue. Into a vessel of cold 
water add 2 pints nitrate of iron; then take 1 
pint water and i pint of hydrochloric acid, 
and add to it 3 ounces crystals of tin ; when 
dissolved, add this (or 1 pint chloride of tin) 
to the vessel containing the iron; stir well 
and work the goods in it immediately for half 
an hour. Into another tub dissolve 8 ounces 
of the ferrocyanide, and add to it 2 fluid ounces 
of sulphuric acid ; the goods are wrung out of 
the iron solution, and put directly into this 
second vessel, and worked for 15 minutes; 
then wash out in cold water with 2 ounces of 
ainm dissolved in it, and finish. If the shade 
is not sufficiently deep, before washing them 
in the alum water, they may be passed through 
the iron solution, and the ferrocyanide solution, 
working in each the same time as at first, only 
adding 2 ounces more ferrocyanide before 
passing the goods through the second time ; 
then finish as before stated. Deeper shades 
are obtained by using more iron and tin, or 
by repeating the dips. Some wash out the 
iron solution in water before going into the 
ferrocyanide, and also wash it again in clean 
water before putting back into the iron ; the 
shade will not be so deep, but there is less 
risk of an unequal color. 

258. Ricli Deep Blue Dye for Silk 
Goods. To dye 5 pounds of silk goods, add 
to the water required to work the silk, 2 pints 
chloride of iron and 1 pint double muriate or 
chloride of tin; work in this half an hour; 
lift, and work in a solution of 8 ounces ferro- 
cyanide of potassium; if the color be not 
deep enough, repeat the operation through 
both solutions; then wash out in water in 
which 2 ounces of alum have been dissolved. 

259. Deep Blue Dye for Woolen Goods. 
To dye 5 pounds woolen goods, add to the 
requisite quantity of water, 2 pints chloride 
of iron and 1 pint chloride of tin; work in this 
for half an hour ; lift, and work half an hour 
in a bath with 4 ounces of the ferrocyanide. 
If the color is required to be deeper, repeat 
this through the same stuff, adding 2 ounces 
more ferrocyanide ; then wash out in cold wa- 
ter, and dry. 

260. Lavender. Add 1 pint plumb li- 
quor {see No. Ill) to sufficient water to work 
the goods easily; stir well and work in this 
for 20 minutes, then wash in cold water and 
dry. A darker or lighter tint is obtained by 
using more or less plumb liquor. 

If a bhie tint is required, add to the solution 
before putting in the goods, 2 or 3 drops either 
of sulphate, or of extract of indigo. {See 
Nos. 98 a7id 99). 



261. Fine Lavender. Into a vessel of 
water as hot as tbe hand can bear, dissolve a 
little white soap — enough to raise a lather; 
then add 1 gill archil liquor, and work the 
goods for 15 minutes, wring out and dry. To 
obtain a redder tint, boil 1 ounce cudbear, 
and use instead of the archil liquor. A still 
redder tint is attainable by leaving out the 
soap altogether. 

262. Violet, Lilac, Wine Color, &c.' 
TVork the goods for 20 minutes in plumb li- 
quor {see No. Ill) in a copper pan or stone- 
ware vessel ; wash out repeatedly until the 
goods cease to taste of the liquor, then dry. 
To obtain a rich blue shade, add to the plumb 
liquor 1 fluid ounce either sulphate or extract 
of indigo. For a red shade, first dye a laven- 
der by "cudbear without soap. {See No. 261.) 

263. French and Pearl White. Dis- 
solve in hot water sufficient white soap to 
make a lather ; then add ^ fluid ounce archil 
liquor; work the goods for 10 minutes, and 
wash out. A little cudbear may be used in- 
stead of archil, less or more, according to the 
shade required. 

264. French and Pearl White. Put 
1 fluid ounce plumb liquor {see No. Ill) into 
a vessel of cold water ; work the goods in it 
for 10 minutes; wash out and dry. For these 
shades the goods must be perfectly white 
{see No. 233) previous to dyeing. 

265. Weld Yellow. Work the silk for 
an horn* in a solution of alum, about 1 ' pound 
to the gallon ; wring out and wash in warm 
water. Boil 2 pounds weld, strain the liquor, 
and work the silk in it for 30 minutes ; Uft, 
and add 1 pint of the alum in solution, to th« 
weld liquor ; work the silk 10 minutes longer, 
wring out and dry. 

This gives a rich lemon yellow; deeper 
shades are made by using more weld : straw 
and amber tints are obtained by the use of a 
little aimotto. 

266. Bark Yellow. The process is the 
same as for dyeing iceld yellow, using 2 
pounds bark instead of the weld. The bark 
should be boiled in a bag. 

267. Deep E-ich Yellow. Proceed as 
in the receipt for bark yelloio ; except that, 
after lifting, instead of a pint of the alum so- 
lution, 2 fluid ounces single chloride of tin 
are added to the bark liquor ; work 10 min- 
utes, wash in water, and finish in a solution of 
white soap. 

268. Gold and Straw. To wann water 
containing white soap, add 2 pints annotto li- 
quor {see No. 95), work in this 15 minutes ; 
wash out, then work for 20 minutes in a de- 
coction of 8 ounces bark; hft, and add 1 
fluid ounce red spirits {see No. 108) ; work 
10 minutes more, wash out and finish. Dif- 
ferent quantities of annotto and bark produce 
difierent shades, 

269. Nankeen, Buff, &c. Make a so- 
lution of soap in warm water, add to it 1 pint 
annotto liquor {see No. 95) ; work in this for 
20 minutes, wiing out and finish; a deeper 
shade is obtained by using more annotto. 

270. Salmon, Flesh, &c. Dye a nan- 
keen according to the previous receipt, and 
add 2 ounces alum in solution to the cold wa- 
ter used for finishing. 

271. Orange. TTork the silk for 15 min- 
utes in a strong warm solution of annotta 



THE Alt T OF DYEING. 



4:5 



(see No. 95) ; wash out in warm water and 
dry. 

272. Yellow Drab. Into a vessel of 
warm water put 1 pint annotto liquor {see 
No. 95) ; work for 15 minutes and wash ; then 
work for 15 minutes in a decoction of i pound 
sumach and 1 pound fustic ; lift^ and add 4 
ounces copperas and 1 ounce ahim in solution; 
work 10 minutes, wash in cold water and dr}'. 
A variety of drabs may be dyed in this way 
by varying the proportions^ of the sumach 
and fustic, and by introducing a little logwood 
or peachwood. 

273. Drab. "Work for 15 minutes in a 
decoction of 8 ounces sumach and 8 ounces 
fustic ; lift, and add 4 ounces copperas ; work 
for 20 minutes, and wash out in cold water ; 
then work 15 minutes in a vessel of warm 
water containing ^ pint archil liquor, and dry. 

274. Greenish Drab. For a greenish 
drab, add to the archil liquor a decoction of 4 
ounces fustic and -^ fluid ounce chemic. (See 
No. 162). 

For a purple tint, use 1 ounce alum in solu- 
tion, instead of the chemic. 

275. Slate or Stone Color. TVork the 
silk for 30 minutes in a decoction of 1 pound 
sumach, 4 ounces fustic, and 4 ounces logwood; 
lift, and add a solution of 4 ounces copperas ; 
work 30 minutes more, wash in cold water, 
and finish. 

For different tints, vary the proportion of 
sumach, &c. 

276. Common Green. Steep for an 
hour in a solution of 1 pound alum to the 
gallon of water ; wash iii wann water, then 
work for 30 minutes in a decoction of 6 
pounds fustic ; lift, and add 2 fluid ounces in- 
digo extract (see No. 99) ; work for 30 min- 
utes more, wash and finish. For blue-green 
use more indigo extract. Darker or lighter 
shades are dyed by using more or less in pro- 
portion of each ingredient. 

277. Green. T7ork for 40 minutes in a 
decoction of 4 pounds fustic ; lift, and add 1 
pound alum in solution, and 2 fluid ounces in- 
digo extract (see No. 99) ; work in this for 30 
minutes, wash out in cold water containing ^ 
pint alum solution, and finish. 

278. Pea Green., Steep for an hour in a 
solution of 8 ounces alum to the gallon of wa- 
ter, then wash out hi warm water ; boil 4 
pounds ebony wood chips for an hour; take 
the clear hquor and work the silk in it for 30 
minutes ; lift, and add ^ fluid ounce indigo 
extract (see No. 99) ; work for 10 minutes ; 
wash in cold water containing ^ pint alum so- 
lution, and dry. 

The indigo extract must be added with cau- 
tion, as too much wiU make the green too 
blue ; it is safer to add less, and then, if ne- 
cessary, lift, and add more. 

279. Bottle Green. A7ork for an hour 
in a solution of 2 pounds alum and 1 pound 
copperas; wash out in warm water, then 
work for 30 minutes in a decoction of 6 
pounds fustic ; lift, and add 2 fluid ounces in- 
digo extract (see No. 99)-, work for 20 mia- 
utes, wash out and fiidsh. 

280. Bottle Green. Proceed exactly as 
ioT common green (see No. 276) with the ad- 
dition of 1 pound logwood to the 6 pounds 
fustic. The addition of a httle more logwood 
makes a still deeper shade if required. 



281 . Olive, ^ork the silk for 30 minutes 
in a solution of 1 pound copperas and 4 ounces 
alum ; wash out in hot water, then work for 
30 minutes in a decoction of 2 pounds fustic 
and 4 ounces logwood; lift, and add 2 ounces 
alum in solution; work 10 minutes, wash and 
dry. 

A little chemic (see No. 162) added to the 
last wash water wiU induce a greener hue if 
required. 

282. Light Olive. Dye a light Pmssian 
blue (see No. 256) ; then work for 20 minutes 
iu a decoction of 2 pounds fustic and i pint 
archil liquor; lift, and add 1 ounce alum in 
solution; work 10 minutes and finish. 

283. To Dye Mixed Fabrics Two 
Colors. Mixed fabrics of cotton and wool, 
such as coburgs, damasks, &c., may be dyed 
aU of one color, or the cotton and wool in 
them each dyed a different color. This is 
seldom done except with new goods, or with 
very light colored goods which are desired to 
be dyed dark colors. As the process for dye- 
ing woolens will seldom impart the same color 
to cottons, the two are dyed separately, and 
the method is quite simple. For most colors 
it is necessary to dye the woolen portion first, 
and then the cotton ; but in a few cases the 
cotton must be the first to be acted on. 

284. Green and Pink. Fnst dye the 
woolen green by either of the methods given 
in is^os. 206, 207, &c. The cotton is then 
dyed pink, according to receipt oSTo. 248. 

285. Green and Crimson. Dye the 
woolen by working for an hour in 2 pounds 
tartar, 4 pounds alum, and 6 pounds fustic ; 
lift, and add I piut indigo extract (^ee^'o. 99); 
wash out, and lay overnight in 6 pounds su- 
mach ; then work for 30 minutes in red spuits 
(see No. 108) made to a strength of 1^° 
Baume; wash out, and work for an hour in 5 
pounds peachwood at blood heat; hft, and 
add a little alum; work in this, then wash 
out and finish. 

286. Blue and Orange. First dye the 
cotton by the blue vat (see No. 130), wash 
out, and "then dye the woolen by working an 
horn* in a bath made up of 2 pounds tart'ar, 8 
ounces cochineal, 2 pounds fustic, and 2 pints 
bichloride of tin ; wash and dry. 

In this way almost any two colors may be 
dyed upon woolen and cotton, although woven 
together, by proceeding according to the re- 
ceipt for the color requh-ed on each sort of 
fibre. The wool is always dyed first, except- 
ing ill the case where the cotton is dyed in 
the blue vat, when the cotton has to be 
treated first. The same principle is applica- 
ble to silk and woolen fabrics, although in 
many cases the silk becomes more imbued 
than the cotton by the woolen dyes. A mix- 
ture of silk and cotton can be dyed in the 
same manner, but it is much more difficult, 
and cannot be done with all kinds of colors, 
and the process is seldom resorted to. But 
the intelligent dyer will be able to combine a 
variety of tints by following the rules and re- 
ceipts given. 

287. To Dye Mixed Fabrics one Col- 
or. If the mixed fabrics are required to be 
dyed one imiform color, the double process 
has often to be adopted, especially for cotton 
and woolen fabrics, thus : 

288. Black on Cotton and "Woolen 



4.6 



THE ART OF DYEING 



Goods. First dye the woolen according to 
i^To. 192 ; then, after steeping the goods in su- 
mach, dye the cotton by receipt 'Eo. 139. 

289. Brown on Cotton and Woolen 
Goods by one Process. Work for 2 hours 
in catechu, as in jSTo. 147; then work at a boil- 
ing heat for an hour with 8 ounces bichromate 
of potassa and 2 ounces tartar ; next work for 
an hour in 2 pounds fustic and 8 ounces cud- 
bear ; wash and dry. For a deeper shade, or 
of a more chocolate hue, add 4 ounces log- 
wood to the cudbear. 

290. Black on Silk and Woolens by- 
one Process. "Work for an hour in a solu- 
tion of 8 ounces tartar and 8 ounces copperas; 
wash out, then work for 15 minutes in a de- 
coction of 4 pounds logwood ; lift, and add 
1 ounce chrome; work for 30 minutes and 
dry. 

291 . Black on Cotton, Silk and Wool, 
by one Process. Stpep for 6 hours in 2 
pounds sumach ; then work for an hour in a 
solution of 6 ounces tartar, 6 ounces sulphate 
of copper, and 6 ounces copperas ; wash out, 
and then work for half an hour in a decoction 
of 4 pounds logwood ; lift, and add 1 ounce 
copperas; work for 10 minutes, wash and 
dry. 

292. Deep Black. To obtain a very 
deep black, add 1 pound of bark to the log- 
wood, and proceed as in last receipt. 

293. Drabs on Cotton, Silk and Wool, 
by one Process. "Work for half an hour in 
8 ounces copperas and 4 ounces tartar; lift 
and drain ; then work for half an hour in 4 
ounces logwood and 1 ounce bichromate of 
potassa ; wash out and dry. By varying the 
quantity of logwood, and by introducing a 
little fustic or peachwood in combination with 
the logwood, a great variety of drabs, slates 
or fawns can be produced. 

These few receipts for mixed fabrics will 
show the care required in such operations, al- 
though, by practice, they become compara- 
tively simple. 

294. To Detect Animal or Vegetable 
Pibres. Treat the fabric with bichloride of 
tin heated to from 130° to 150° Fahr., when 
the cotton and Hnen become black, and the 
wool and silk remain unchanged. 

295. To Detect Mixed Fabrics of Cot- 
ton and Wool. Dip a piece of the cloth in 
bleaching liquor; after a little while the 
woolen turns yellow, and the cotton white, 
and may easUy be distinguished. 

296. To Detect Cotton in Linen. The 
piece to be tested should be boiled to remove 
all dressing, and then dried ; put a portion of 
the piece into common vitriol for about one 
minute ; take it out and wash it in water sev- 
eral times, and then into a weak solution of 
soda or potash, and all the gummy matter 
formed is removed by gentle rubbing. By 
this process the cotton is dissolved and the 
linen remains, or any portion of the cotton 
that is not dissolved becomes opaque white, 
while the linen is transparent. By comparing 
the portion thus tested, with a similar portion 
not tried, the quantity of cotton present can 
easily be estimated. 

297. To Detect Cotton in Linen. Take 
ei small piece of the cloth, boil in water and 
dry ; then take 3 parts, by weight, of sul- 
phuric acid; and 2 parts of crushed nitrate of 



potassa ; put the dry piece of cloth in this 
mixture for 6 or 7 minutes, and then wash it 
in water until there is no taste of acid ; dry it 
at a gentle heat ; next put it into a mixture of 
ether and alcohol, which will dissolve the cot- 
ton and not the linen. If the piece be 
weighed before and after putting it into the 
ether and alcohol, the quantity of cotton in 
the fabric can be accurately ascertained. 

298. To Distinguish Cotton and Wool. 
Take a small piece of the cloth and boil in 
caustic soda ; the wool will be dissolved, and 
the cotton remain. If the threads have been 
previously counted, their relative mixture can 
be found. 

299. To Detect Cotton with Silk or 
Wool. Put a piece of the cloth into chlorine 
water or bleaching liquor. The cotton is 
whitened, and the silk and wool turn yellow, 
and can easily be distinguished by the aid of 
a pocket lens. 

300. To Detect Cotton in Silk or Wool. 
Take a small piece and unravel the threads, 
and inflame them; the cotton burns away 
freely and leaves little or no black charcoal ; 
the wool and silk shrivel up, leave a black 
charcoal, and give a strong smell. 

Decidedly the best and safest method, and 
one apj)hcable in all cases, is a microscopic 
examination, by which not only the structure, 
but also the nature of the fibre can be de- 
monstrated. Cotton, wool and silk are easily 
distinguished by the microscope, as they dif- 
fer materially in appearance. Cotton forms 
flat, narrow ribbons, cm-led up in spirals like 
those of a corkscrew; wool fibre is stouter 
than all others, and may be recognized by its 
scaly surface, while silk is the thinnest fibre, 
has the smoothest surface, and possesses the 
least structure. These appearances are very 
characteristic, and any one who has observed 
them once will ever afterwards recognize 
them again at first sight. 

301. To Distinguish Silk and Wool in 
Fabrics. Silk can always be identified in 
a mixture with any other animal or vegetable 
fibre by means of concentrated hydrochloric 
acid, which dissolves it completely and im- 
mediately, without appreciably aff"ecting any 
woolen or woody fibre with which the silk 
may have been interwoven. Strong sul- 
phuric acid has also a powerful solvent effect 
upon silk, and is likewise much more destruc- 
tive in its action up on cotton than the other acid. 
Should it be desired to determine the nature 
of any fibres remaining after the solution of 
the silk, it is first necessary to wash and col- 
lect them, when they will usually be foimd 
destitute of color. To decide whether wool 
is present or absent, a solution of picric acid 
may be employed, which iustantly imparts a 
full yeUow tint to the wool, but does not in 
the least affect cotton, finen, or China grass ; 
so that it is only necessary to immerse the 
fabric in the dye, wring it out, and wash weU 
with water. Should any portion remain of a 
yellow color, the presence of wool is indicated. 
Other methods can be employed similar in 
principle, but the picric acid is believed to be 
best. Discrimination between the different 
kinds of fibre can best be prosecuted by means 
of the microscope, but their quantity is best 
found by dissolving away one fibre, as alread" 
directed, and weighing. 



FAMILY DYEING RECEIPTS. 



4-7 



Family Dyeing Receipts. 
The following receipts and directions are 
excellent for dyeing on a small scale, and es- 
pecially adapted for family nse. The ingredi- 
ents required can be obtained at any color 
store. 

303. Black for Worsted or "Woolen. 
Dissolve f. ounce bichromate of potash in 3 gal- 
lons Tvater. Boil the goods in this 40 minutes ; 
then wash in cold water. Then take 3 gal- 
lons water, add 9 ounces logwood, 3 ounces 
fustic, and one or two drops, D. 0. T., or 
Double Oil of Yitriol ; boil the goods 40 min- 
utes, and wash, out in cold water. This will 
dye from 1 to 2 pounds of cloth, or a lady's 
dress, if of a dark color, as brown, claret, kc. 

All colored dresses with' cotton warps should 
be previously steeped 1 horn' in sumach li- 
quor ; and then soaked for 30 minutes in 3 
gallons of clean water, with 1 cupful of ni- 
trate of iron {see No. 116) ; then it must be 
well washed, and dyed as first stated. 

304. Black for Silk. Dye the same as 
black for worsted; but previously steep the silk 
in the following liquor: scald 4 ounces logwood, 
and i ounce turmeric in 1 pint boiling water ; 
then add 7 pints cold water. Steep 30 or 40 
minutes ; take out, and add 1 ounce sulphate 
of iron (copperas), dissolved in hot water; 
steep the silk 30 minutes longer. 

305. Brown for Worsted or Wool. 
"W^ater, 3 gallons ; bichromate of potash, f 
ounce. Boil the goods in this 40 minutes ; 
wash out in cold water. Then take 3 gallons 
water, 6 ounces peachwood, and 2 ounces 
turmeric. Boil the goods in this 40 minutes ; 
wash out. 

306. Imperial Blue for Silk, Wool, 
and Worsted. Water, 1 gallon ; sulphuric 
acid, a wine-glassful ; imperial blue, 1 table- 
spoonful or more, according to the shade re- 
quired. Put in the silk, worsted, or wool. 
And boil 10 minutes ; wash in a weak solution 
of soap lather. 

307. Sky Blue for Worsted and Wool- 
en. 'V^ater, 1 gallon ; sulphuric acid, a wine- 
glassful ; giauber salts in crystals, 2 table- 
spoonfuls; liquid extract of indigo, 1 tea- 
spoonful. Boil the goods about 15 minutes ; 
rinse in cold water. 

308. Claret for Wool or Worsted. 
A Short Way of Dyeing the Same. 
"Water, 3 gallons; cudbear, 12 ounces; log- 
wood, 4 ounces; old fustic, 4 ounces; alum, i 
ounce. Boil the goods in it 1 hour. "Wash. 
This will dye from 1 to 2 pounds of material. 

309. Crimson for Worsted or Wool. 
"Water, 3 gallons; paste cochineal, 1 ounce; 
cream of tartar, 1 ounce ; nitrate of tin {see 
No. 113), a wine-glassful. Boil your goods in 
this 1 hour. Wash first in cold water, then 
in another vessel with 3 gallons warm water 
with a cupful of ammonia, the whole well 
mixed. Put in the goods and work well 15 
tainutes. For a bluer shade add more ammo- 
tiia. Then wash out. 

310. Fawn Drab for Silk. Hot wa- 
ter, 1 gallon; annotto liquor {see JVo. 95), 1 
wine-glassful ; 2 ounces each of sumach and 
fustic. Add copperas liquor according to the 
required shade. "Wash out. It is best t j use 
the copperas liquor in another vessel, diluted 
according to the shade desired-. 



311. Dark Drab for Silk maybe ob- 
tained by using a little archil and extract of 
indigo. 

312. Flesh Color for Dyeing Silk. 

Boiling water, 1 gallon ; put in 1 ounce white 
soap, and 1 ounce pearlash. Mix well, then 
add a cupful of annotto liquor. {See No. 95.) 
Put the silk thi'ough several times, and pro- 
portion the liquor till you obtain the required 
shade. 

313. Salmon Color for Silk may be ob-i 
tained by first passing through the above li- 
quor, and then through diluted muriate of 
tin. {SeeNo.Wi.) 

314. Magenta for Silk, Wool or Wors- 
ted. "Water, 1 gallon, heated up to 180 de- 
grees ; and magenta liquor, 1 tablespoonful ; 
stir it well up. This will dye a broad ribbon 
4 yards long, or a pair of small stockings. 
To dye a larger quantity of material, add 
more magenta liquor and water. The shade 
of color may be easily regulated by using 
more or less. Magenta Pink may be obtained 
by increased dilution. 

315. Mauve for Silk, Wool or Wors- 
ted. Water, 1 gallon ; add 1 table-spoonful 
sulphuric acid; then heat to boiling point. 
For a very light mauve, add 1 tea-spoonful im- 
perial violet liquor ; boil the same amount of 
material, as stated under Magenta, about 10 
minutes. Einse in cold water. If the color 
be too deep, use a little soap in rinsing, using 
warm water. 

316. Violet Color for Worsted may be 
produced by using a table-spoonful of violet 
liquor instead of a tea-spoonful. 

317. Pea Green for Silk. To 1 quart 
water, put ^ tea-spoonful picric acid, and rath- 
er more than ^ wine-glassful sulphuric acid, 
and a tea-spoonful paste extract of indigo ; 
boil about 5 minutes, then add water to cool 
it down to blood heat, or 100° Fahr. Put in 
the silk, and work it about 20 minutes. The 
shade may be varied by adding more or less ol 
the picric acid, or extract of indigo ; if more 
of either be added, boil separately in a little 
water, and add to the previous liquor. 

318. Pea Green for Worsted. Use the 
same materials as the aforesaid ; but boil aU 
the time in 1 gallon of water for about 20 or 
30 minutes. 

319. Dark Green for Worsted. This 
may be obtained by using a larger quantity 
of material, in the same wav as the last. 

320. Plum Color for"^ Worsted, Silk 
or Cotton. "Water, 1 gallon ; sulphuric acid, 
1 tea-spoonful; giauber salts, in crystals, 2 
table-spoonfuls; violet liquor, 1 table-spoonful; 
magenta liquor, ^ table- spoonful. Boil the 
article (silk, wool or worsted), about 10 min- 
utes. 

321. Remarks on Dyeing Cotton. 
Cotton should be dyed the above colors sepa- 
rately, and by first running them through 
weak gall liquor, and weak double muriate of 
tin. Then wash well, and work in the afore- 
said liquor, according to color and shade. 
The dveing liquor should be cold. 

322. Scarlet on Worsted or Wool. 
3 gallons water, 2 ounces dry cochineal, 1 
ounce cream of tartar, 1 wine-glassful nitrate 
of tin; boil the goods 1 hour. To give the 
goods a yellower hue, add a ?ittle young fus- 
tic to the above mixture. "Wash out as before. 



4r8 



TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 



323. Yellow for Dyeing Silk. Pro- 
ceed the same as in dyeing pea green, omit- 
ting the extract of indigo, and using oxalic 
tin instead of sulphuric acid. 

324. To Dye Feathers. First steep 
them a few hours in warm water. 

325. Blue may be dyed by extract of in- 
digo and boiling water. Simmer over the fire 
a few minutes. 

326. Green. Terdigris and verditer, 1 
ounce each ; and gum water. Dip the feath- 
ers. Or mix the indigo liquor with Persian 
berry liquor. 

327. Lilac. Use cudbear and hot water. 

328. Red. Brazil wood, a little yermil- 
ion aiid alum, and vinegar. Boil 30 minutes, 
and then dip the feathers. 

329. Yellow, by turmeric. 

330. Scarlet, by cochineal, cream of tar- 
tar, and muriate of tin. {See No. 113.) 

331. To Dye Dove or Slate Color. 
Boil a teacup of black tea in an iron pot, add- 
ing a tea-spoonful of copperas. The depth of 
color will depend on the quantity of water 
used. Dye the articles in this and then hang 
them up to drain, finally rinsing out in soap- 
suds. 

332. Aniline Red. This produces a 
color varying from the deepest crimson to a 
very brilliant and beautiful rose pink, accord- 
ing to the strength of the dye. All that is 
necessary is to enclose the aniline in a small 
muslin bag, and having a kettle (tin or brass) 
filled with moderately hot water, rub the sub- 
stance out. Then immerse the articles to be 
colored, and in a short time they are done. 
The dye is so readily absorbed that care i;^ re- 
quired to prevent spotting. 'No mordant is 
required, although it improves the color to 
wring the goods out of strong soapsuds before 
putting them in the dye. This is a permanent 
color for woolen or silk. 

333. Aniline Blue. To 100 pounds of 
fabric dissolve IJ pounds anihne blue in 3 
quarts hot alcohol; strain through a filter 
and add it to a bath of 130° Pah.; also 10 
pounds glauber salts, and 5 pounds acetic 
acid. Enter the goods and handle them well 
for 20 minutes ; next heat it slowly to 200° 
Pah.; then add 5 pounds sulphuric acid di- 
luted with water. Let the whole boil 20 min- 
utes longer, then rinse and dry. If the ani- 
line be added in two or three proportions dur- 
ing the process of coloring, it will facilitate 
the evenness of the color. Hard and close 
wove fabrics, such as braid, ought to be pre- 
pared in a boiling solution of 10 pounds sul- 
phuric acid and 2 pounds tartaric acid before 
coloring with the aniline, as this will make 
the fabric more susceptible to the color. 

334. To Dye Hats. A bath for dyeing 
12 dozen hats consists of 144 pounds logwood, 
12 pounds green sulphate of iron or copperas, 
7^ pounds verdigris. The copper is made of 
a semi-cylindrical shape, and should be sur- 
rounded with an iron jacket^ or case, into 
which steam may be admitted, so as to raise 
the temperature of the interior bath to 190° 
Pah., but no higher; otherwise the heat is 
apt to affect the stiffening varnish, called the 
gum, with which the body of the hat has 
been imbued. The logwood having been in- 
troduced and digested for some time, the cop- 
peras and verdigris are added in successive 



quantities, and in the above proportions, 
along with every successive two or three doz- 
en of hats suspended upon the dipping ma- 
chine. Each set of hats, after being exposed 
to the bath, with occasional airings, during 40 
minutes, is taken off the pegs, and laid out 
upon the ground to be more completely black- 
ened by the peroxydizement of the iron with 
the atmospheric oxygen. In 3 or 4 hours the 
dyeing is completed. When fully dyed, the 
hats are well washed in running water. 

335. Spirit Stiffening for Hats. 7 
pounds orange shellac ; 2 pounds gum sanda- 
rac ; 4 ounces gum mastic ; ^ pound amber 
resin ; 1 pint solution of copal ; 1 gallon spir- 
it of wine, or wood naphtha. 

The shellac, sandarac, mastic, and resin are 
dissolved in the spirit, and the solution of co- 
pal is added last. 

336. Alkali Stiffening for Hats. 7 
pounds common block shellac ; 1 pound am- 
ber resin ; 4 ounces gum thus ; 4 ounces gum 
mastic ; 6 ounces borax ; ^ pint solution of 
copal. 

The borax is first dissolved in about 1 gal- 
lon warm water. This alkaline liquor is put 
into a copper pan (heated by steam), together 
with the shellac, resin, thus, and mastic, and 
allowed to boil for some time, more warm wa- 
ter being added occasionally until it is of a 
proper consistence ; this may be known by 
pouring a little on a cold slab, somewhat in- 
clined, and if the liquor runs off at the lower 
end, it is sufficiently fiuid. If, on the con- 
trary, it sets before it reaches the bottom, it 
requires more water. "When the whole of the 
gums seem dissolved, -J pint of wood naphtha 
must be introduced, with the solution of co- 
pal ; then the liquor must be passed through 
a fine sieve, and it wiU be perfectly clear and 
ready for use. This stiffening is used hot. 
The hat bodies, before they are stiffened, 
should be steeped in a weak solution of soda 
in water, to destroy any acid that may have 
been left in them (as sulphuric acid is used in 
the making of the bodies.) If this is not at- 
tended to, should the hat body contain any 
acid when it is dipped into the stiffening, the 
alkali is meutralized, and the gums conse- 
quently precipitated. After the body has 
been steeped in the alkaline solution, it 
must be perfectly dried in the stove before 
the stiffening is applied ; when stiffened and 
stoved, it must be steeped all night in water 
to which a smaU quantity of the sulphuric 
acid has been added ; this sets the stiffening 
in the hat body, and finishes the process. 



TO Remove Stains, Spots, 
&c. The following receipts embrace 
directions for cleaning, and removing stains of 
every kind, from clothing, linen, etc., and ar- 
ticles pertaining to the household. Eeceipts 
for cleansing other articles will be found else- 
where under their appropriate headings. 

338. To Remove Resin Spots from 
Silk. Stains by wax, resin, turpentine, 
pitch, and substances of a resinous nature, 
may be removed by pure alcohol. It frequent- 
ly happens that when common turpentine is 
employed to remove grease, varnish or paint 
stains from silk, the turpentine itself leaves a 



TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 



4:9 



Btain almost as objectionable as the original 
one, which it was used to remove. These 
stains are due to the resin which is held in so- 
lution by the turpentine, and which remains 
in the silk after the yolatile or spirituous por- 
tion has evaporated. Alcohol applied to the 
stains with a clean sponge will remove the 
spots, because alcohol dissolves the resin. 
The silk stains should be moistened with the 
alcohol first, and allowed to remain soaked 
for a few minutes. Fresh alcohol is then ap- 
plied with the sponge, and with a slight rub- 
bing motion. It is then wiped as dry as pos- 
sible and afterward permitted to dry perfectly 
in the open air. 

339. To Remove Pitch, Varnish, or 
Oil-paiiit Stains. A\^hen pitch, varnish, or 
oil-paint stains have become dry, they should 
be softened with a little butter or lard, before 
using turpentine and soap. In these cases, a 
simple way is to soak the part in spirits of 
turpentine, and, when softened, to wash it ofi" 
with the same fluid. Burning-fluid combines 
the solvent powers of both alcohol and tur- 
pentine. Benzine is also good. Chloroform 
will also remove paint from a garment when 
almost everything else fails. The fats, resins, 
and unctuous oils, are dissolved by essential 
oils, as oil of turpentine. Common spirits of 
turpentine, however, requires to be purified by 
re-distillation, or it will leave a resinous stain 
upon the spot where it is used. (See last re- 
ceipt.) 

340. To Remove Paint Stains from 
Clothes. Chloroform is an excellent medium 
for the removal of stains of paint from clothes, 
etc. It is found that portions of dry white 
paint, which resisted the action of ether, ben- 
zole, and bisulphide of carbon, are at once 
dissolved by chloroform. If the paint is 
fresh, turpentine or alcohol will remove it. 
(See No. 338.) 

341. To Remove Wax Stains from 
Silk. Mix powdered French chalk with lav- 
ender water to the thickness of mustard. 
Put it on the stain, and rub it gently with the 
finger or palm of the hand. Put a sheet of 
clean blotting paper and brown paper over it, 
and smooth it with a warm iron. When dry 
the chalk must be removed, and the silk gent- 
ly dusted with a white handkerchief. If a 
faint mark stiU remains, a second application 
of French chalk and lavender water will gen- 
erally remove it. If the wax stain has fallen 
thickly on the silk, it should be removed first 
carefiilly with a penknife. 

342. To Remove Wax Spots from 
Cloth. Remove, by scraping with a knife, 
as much of the wax as you can without injury 
to the fabric ; drop benzine on the spot, then 
with a sponge rub it gently ; repeat it till the 
spot disappears. 

343. To Remove Spermaceti, or 
Stearine Stains. To remove spots of 
spermaceti, scrape ofi" as much as you can 
with a knife, then lay a thin, soft, white blot- 
ting paper upon the spots, and press it with a 
warm iron. By repeating this you will draw 
out the spermaceti. Afterwards rub the cloth 
where the spots have been, with some very 
soft brownish paper. 

344. To Remove Grease Spots. To 
do this without injury to the color of the fab- 
ric, is sometimes easy^ frequently most diffi- 



cult, and often impossible. Much may de- 
pend upon skillful and persevering manipula- 
tion ; and although various agents are often- 
times valuable, yet good soap, after all, is the 
chief reliance. Grease spots may generally 
be removed by the patient application of soap 
and soft water, but other means are also em- 
ployed. Ox-gall is an excellent and delicate 
cleansing agent. It is a liquid soda soap. It 
removes grease, and is said to fix and bright- 
en colors, though it has a greenish tinge, 
which is bad for the purity of white articles. 
Aqua ammonia is also good for removing 
grease spots from any fabric. Use the ammo- 
nia nearly pure, and then lay white blotting 
paper over the spot and iron it lightly. (See 
also No. 126.) 

345. To Remove Grease and Dirt 
from Cloth and Woolen Articles. Place 
a cotton or woolen cloth, or a piece of blot- 
ting paper, under the article to be cleansed, 
then rub upon the spots some pure benzine, 
and the grease or dirt will disappear as if by 
magic. 

Be sure to place a cloth under the garment 
to be operated upon, otherwise a circular stain 
will remain, which cannot be removed. The 
benzine drives the grease through the article 
to be cleaned, and is absorbed by the cloth 
placed under it. After the spot is removed, 
continue to rub with a dry cloth until the 
benzine is evaporated; this also is done to 
avoid a stain. 

346. Cautions about Benzine. From 
the facility with which it removes grease 
spots from fabrics, this substance has come to 
be regarded almost as a household indispensa- 
ble. But few persons, however, realize the 
explosive character of benzine or the dangers 
attending the careless handling of the liqidd. 
Being one of the most volatile and iaflamma- 
ble products resulting from the distillation of 
petroleum, it vaporizes with gi-eat rapidity, so 
that the contents of a 4 ounce vial, if over- 
turned, would render the air of a moderate 
sized room highly explosive. The greatest 
care should be exercised in handling this sub- 
stance, in proximity to fire, and it is import- 
ant to remember that the vapor escaping from 
an uncorked bottle will cause a flame to leap 
over a space of several feet. 

347. To Remove Grease from Cloth. 
Take 1 quart lime ; add thereto as much wa- 
ter as will dissolve the lime and leave about 1 
quart clear water after it has been well stirred 
and settled. Let it stand about two hours, 
and then pour ofi" the clear liquid into another 
vessel. ISTow add to it ^ an ounce of pearlash; 
stir it weU, and, when settled, bottle it for use. 
This liquor is to be diluted with water, to suit 
the strength or delicacy of the color of the 
cloth. It is applied with a piece of coarse 
sponge, rubbing out the grease, and applying 
clear water afterwards. 

This is one of the best receipts known for 
the extraction of grease ; but it is destructive 
to certain vegetable colors. 

348. To Remove Grease Spots from 
Cloth. Soft soap, and fuller's earth, of each 
^ pound ; beat well together in a mortar, and 
form into cakes. The spot, first moistened 
with water, is rubbed with a cake, and al- 
lowed to dry, whenit is well rubbed with a little 
warm water, and rinsed or rubbed off clean. 



50 



TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 



349. Scouring Balls. Dry fuller's earth, 
moistened with the juice of lemons ; add a 
small quantity of pearl ashes, and a little soft 
soap ; knead the whole well together into a 
thick elastic paste ; form it into small balls 
and dry them in the sun. When used, moist- 
en the spot on the clothes with water ; then 
rub it with the ball, and let the spot dry in 
the sun. When washed with pure water the 
spot will disappear. 

350. To Remove Grease from Cloth 
or Silk. Separate the yolk oi an egg from 
the white as perfectly as possible. Then 
stretch the fabric on a board, and with a soft 
clothes brush dip into the yolk, and rub the 
spot with it until the grease seems loosened. 
The yolk will not injm-e the most delicate 
colors, but the rubbing may, if too severe. 
Then rinse with warm rain water, rubbing the 
edges with a damp cloth, and clapping the 
whole between dry towels. If the stain is not 
quite gone, repeat the process. It will not do 
so well for fabrics mixed with cotton or linen. 

351. To Remove Grease from. Silk or 
Velvet. Rub the spots on the silk lightly 
and rapidly with a clean soft cotton rag 
dipped in chloroform, and the grease will im- 
mediately disappear without injuring the col- 
or of the silk. Repeat the operation if ne- 
cessary. Be careful to rub the article rapidly 
and lightly, then iinish with a clean dry cloth. 
If these precautions are not taken, a slight 
stain is apt to be the result. Yery highly 
rectified benzine, such as is prepared by the 
first-class druggists, will also immediately 
remove grease from the most delicate colored 
silks. 

352. To Remove Grease from Silk. 
Take French chalk finely scraped, and put it 
on the grease spot, holding it near the fire, or 
over a warm iron reversed, or on a water- 
plate in which is boiling water. This will 
cause the grease to melt, and the French 
chalk will absorb it, and it may then be 
brushed or rubbed off; or, put a little pow- 
dered French chalk on the spot, cover it with 
a piece of white blotting-paper, and over that 
apiece of brown wrapping paper, and apply a 
hot flat-iron. If any grease remains, proceed 
as before, until it is all extracted. The French 
chalk is a fine soluble powder of a dry absorb- 
ent quality, acting upon silks the same as 
fuller's earth does upon cloth. 

The above plans may be adopted when you 
desire to extract the grease immediately; but 
if time is not an object, proceed as follows : 

Sprinkle pulverized French chalk upon the 
spot and put the article in a dark place, and 
in a few days the grease wiU entirely disap- 
pear. We think this last method the best, as 
the heat from the iron wiU sometimes injure 
silk of a delicate tint. 

353. To Remove Grease Spots from 
Silk. Grease spots may be taken from 
silks in the following manner: Upon a 
wooden table lay a piece of woolen cloth or 
baize, upon which lay smoothly the part 
stained, with the right side downwards. 
Having spread a piece of brown paper on the 
top, apply a flat-iron just hot enough to 
scorch the paper. About five or eight sec- 
onds is usually sufficient. Repeat until the 
spot is extracted. Then rub briskly with a 
piece of writing paper. {See last receipt.) 



354. Erench Scouring Drops for Re- 
moving Grease. Camphene, 8 ounces ; pure 
alcohol, 1 ounce sulphuric ether, 1 ounce; 
essence of lemon, 1 drachm; or, spirits of wine, 
1 pint; white soap, 3 ounces; ox gall, 3 ounces; 
essence of lemon, ^ ounce. 

355. To Remove Grease from Velvet. 
Grease may be taken out of velvet by a little 
turpentine, poured over the spot; then rub 
briskly with a piece of clean dry flannel. 
Repeat the application, if necessary, and hang 
the article in the air, to remove the smell. 
{See No. ^^1.) 

356. Simple Method of Removing 
Grease Spots from Silk. Take a visiting 
or other card ; separate it, and rub the spot 
with the soft internal part, and it will dis- 
appear without taking the gloss off the silk. 
This is a simple and valuable receipt. Be 
careful and rub the silk on the i07'ong side, as 
the card sometimes wiU soil delicate colored 
silks, but if the above precaution is taken, the 
spot cannot be seen on the right side of the 
silk. 

357. To Remove Oil from Carpets. 
To take oil out of a carpet, as soon as it is 
spilled put on plenty of wheat flour or whi' 
ting, to absorb the oil and keep it from spread^ 
ing. If the oil is near a seam, rip it, so that 
the spot will not spread, and put whiting on 
the floor under the carpet. Next day sweep 
up all the flour above and under the cai-pet 
with a stiff brush, and put on plenty of fresh 
flour. To take out grease spots, rub them 
with white flannel dipped in raw spirits of 
tui-pentine. If they show after a while, rub 
again on both sides. If there are grease spots 
on the floor, remove them with potter's clay 
before the carpet is laid down. 

358. To take Grease Spots out of 
Carpets. Mix a little soap into a gallon of 
warm soft water, then add ^ ounce of borax ; 
wash the part well with a clean cloth, and 
the grease or dirty spot will soon disappear. 

359. To Remove Oil Stains from 
Leather and Paper. Oil stains may be re- 
moved fi'om leather, paper, (fee, by applying 
pipe-clay, powdered and mixed with water to 
the thickness of cream ; leave it on for four 
hours. This will not injure the best colors. 

360. Methods of Removing Various 
Stains. Fruit-stains, wine- stains, and those 
made by colored vegetable juices, are oftennear- 
ly indehble, and require various treatment. 
Thorough rubbing with soap and soft water ; 
repeated dipping in sour butter-milk, and 
drying in the sun ; rubbing on a thick mix- 
ture of starch and cold water, and exposing 
long to sun and air, are among the expedients 
resorted to. Sulphurous acid is often em- 
ployed to bleach out colors. It may be g^ener- 
ated at the moment of using, by burning a 
small piece of sulphur in the air, under the 
wide end of a small paper funnel, whose upper 
orifice is apphed near the cloth. Coffee and 
chocolate stains require careful soaping and 
washing with water at 120°, followed by 
sulphuration. If discoloration has been pro- 
duced by acids, water of ammonia should be 
applied ; if spots have been made by alkaline 
substances, moderately strong vinegar may 
be applied; if upon a delicate article, the 
vinegar should be decolorized Vsy filtering 
through powdered chgircoal. 



TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 



51 



361. The Eflfects of Acids and Alka- 
lies upon Diflferent Colors. The effect of 
acids upon blacks, purples, blues (except 
those produced by indigo or Prussian blue), 
and upon all those shades of colors which are 
produced by means of iron, archil, and as- 
tringent substances, is to turn them red. 
They render yellows more pale, except those 
produced by annotto, which they turn to an 
orange color. 

Alkalies turn scarlets, and all reds produced 
ky Brazil or logwood, to a violet color ; they 
turn green (upon woolen cloths) to yellow, 
and they give a reddish cast to the yellow 
produced by annotto. The effect of the 
perspiration is the same as that of the alkalies. 

Spots occasioned by acids are removed by 
alkalies, and vice versa. {See last receipt.) 

362. To Restore Colors that have 
"been Injured by the use of Re- Agents. 
The colors of cloths are often injured by the 
re-agents made use of in order to restore them 
effectively ; when such is the case we must 
not only understand the general principles of 
the art of dyeing, but the nature and composi- 
tion of the particular dye that was originally 
employed for dyeing the cloth whose color is 
to be restored, and thus enabled to modify the 
means accordingly. Thus, when, after using 
an alkali to remove an acid spot upon brown, 
violet, or blue cloth, (fee, there remains a 
yellow spot, the original color is again pro- 
duced by means of a solution of tin. A solu- 
tion of the sulphate of iron restores the color 
to those brown cloths which have been dyed 
with galls. Acids give to yellow cloths which 
have been rendered dull or brown by alkalies, 
their original brightness. "When black cloths 
dyed with logwood have any reddish spots 
occasioned by acids, alkalies turn such spots 
to a yellow color, and a little of the astringent 
principle makes them black again. A solu- 
tion of 1 part of indigo in 4 parts of sulphuric 
acid, properly diluted with water, may be 
successfully employed to restore a faded blue 
color upon wool or cotton. Eed or scarlet 
colors may be restored by means of cochineal, 
and a solution of muriate of tin, <fec. (See 
No. 113.) 

363. The Choice of Re-Agents for 
Restoring Color. The choice of re-agents 
is not a matter of indifference ; vegetable acid 
(Decolorized Vinegar, see Index), is gener- 
ally preferable to mineral acids. The sul- 
phurous acid (see No. 360), however, may be 
used for spots from fruit; it does not injure 
blue upon silk, or the colors produced by as- 
tringents ; nor does it affect yellow upon cot- 
ton. A volatile alkali ( Water of Ammonia) 
succeeds better than a tixed alkali in remov- 
ing spots produced by acids. They are usual- 
ly made use of in the foiTQ of vapor, and act 
quickly, seldom injuring the color of the cloth. 

364. To Reniove Fruit Stains. Spots 
caused by fmit are removed by sulphurous 
acid, or what is still better, by water acidu- 
lated with a little muriatic or oxalic acid, or 
salt of lemons; but care must be taken not to 
apply this liquid to colors that it will mjure. 
A lighted sulphur match held under the stain 
will produce sufficient sulphurous acid. 

365. To Reniove Fruit and other 
Stains from Linen. Fruit and other spots 
on hnen may be removed by applying to the 



part, previously washed clean, a weak solu- 
tion of chlorine, chloride of lime, spirits of 
salts (muriatic acid), oxalic acid, or salts of 
lemon, in warm water, and frequently by 
merely using a little lemon juice. The part 
should be again thoroughly rinsed in clear 
warm water (without soap), and dried. 

Many other stains may be taken out by 
dipping the linen in sour butter-milk, and 
drying it in a hot sun. Then wash it in cold 
water, and dry it, 2 or 3 times a day. 

366. To Remove Acid Stains from 
Linen, &c. These may be removed by the 
following methods : "Wet the part and lay on 
it some salt of wormwood (carbonate oj 
potassa); then rub it, without diluting it with 
more water. 

Or : Tie up in the stained part some pearl- 
ash; then scrape some soap into cold soft 
water to make a lather, and boil the linen till 
the stain disappears. 

367. To Remove Acid Stains from 
Garments. Chloroform will restore the 
color of garments, where the same has been 
destroyed by acids. 

When acid has accidentally or otherwise 
destroyed or changed the color of the fabric, 
ammonia should be applied to neutralize the 
acid. A subsequent application of chloroform 
restores the original color. 

Spots produced by hydrochloric or sulphuric 
acid can be removed by the application of 
concentrated ammonia, whUe spots from 
nitric acid can scarcely l3e obliterated. 

368. To Remove Alkali Stains from 
Garments. Spots produced by alkalies, 
such as soap-boiler's lye, soda, ammonia, etc., 
can generally be made to disappear complete- 
ly by the prompt application of dilute acetic 
acid and a good deal of water. (See No. 360.) 

369. To Remove Claret or Port Wine 
Stains. Apply a little table salt to the spot 
stained, and also moisten it with sherry. 
After washing, no trace of the stain will be 
left. The acid contained in claret decomposes 
the salt, and sets free chlorine (bleachmg 
gas), which removes the vegetable coloring 
matter of the wine. If the stain is from port, 
sheny should be added, as it also contains 
acid. 

370. To Remove Stains of Wine, 
Fruit, &c., after they have been long in 
the Linen. Eub the part on each side with 
yellow soap ; then lay on a mixture of starch 
in cold water very thick ; rub it well in, and 
expose the linen to the sun and air till the 
stain comes out. If not removed in 3 or 4 
days, rub that off and renew the process. 
"When dry it may be sprinkled with a little 
water. 

371. To Remove Stains of Iodine. 
Stains of iodine are removed by rectified 
spirit. 

372. To take out all Stains which are 
not Metallic. Mix 2 tea-spoonfuls of water 
with one of spirit of salt (muriatic acid); 
let the stain lie in it for one or two minutes ; 
then rinse the article in cold water. This 
will be found particularly useful in removing 
stains from white napkins. 

373. Prepared Ox-gall for taking out 
Spots. Boil together 1 pint of ox-galT and 
2 ounces powdered alum ; to which add 2 
ounces common salt; let the liquor settle; 



52 



TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 



add a few drops essence of lemony pour it off 
into a bottle, and cork tightly. 

374. Scouring Balls for General Pur- 
poses. In order to remove a stain, the cause 
or origin of which is doubtful, a composition 
is requisite which possesses various powers. 
The following is a good one for such pur- 
poses : Dissolve some white soap in alcohol, 
and mix with it the yolks of 4 or 5 eggs ; add 
gradually a little spirits of turpentine, and 
sufficient fuller's earth to make the mixture 
into balls. To remove a stain, wet the spot 
with soft water, rub it with a ball of the 
above composition, then rub the cloth and 
wash out. This will remove almost any 
stain, except ink and other solutions of iron. 

375. To Remove Iron Mould or Ink 
Stains. For iron mould or ink stains, lemon 
juice or salt of sorrel (oxalate of potash) may 
be used. If the stains are of long standing, it 
may be necessary to use oxalic acid, which is 
much more powerful. It may be applied in 
powder upon the spot, previously moistened 
with water well rulDbed on, and then washed 
off with pure water. It should be effectually 
washed out, for it is highly corrosive to textile 
fibres. {See also No. 127.) 

376. To Remove Iron Mould. The 
part stained should be remoistened with ink, 
and this removed by the use of muriatic acid 
diluted with 5 or 6 times its weight of water, 
when it wiU be found that the old and new 
stain wiU be removed simultaneously. This 
is a very effectual method. 

377. To Remove Stains of Iron Mould 
from Fabrics. The removal of these stains 
is a matter of some difficulty if they have re- 
mained on a fabric for some time. The usual 
substances employed for this purpose (oxalic 
acid or quadroxalate of potassa) require plac- 
ing, in concentrated solution, in contact with 
the material for a considerable time, thereby 
materially weakening and rotting the fibre. 
The following method is free from this objec- 
tion, and will remove stains of long standing 
almost immediately : Wet the mark with 
yellow sulphide of ammonium, by which it 
will be immediately blackened, and allow it a 
minute or so to penetrate ; then wash out the 
excess of sulphide, and treat the black spot 
with cold dilute muriatic acid, by which it is 
immediately removed. Finally, wash well 
with water. 

378. To Make Essential Salt of 
Ltemons, for removing iron moulds, ink 
spots, and stains from linen and cotton. Take 1 
ounce of oxalic acid in fine powder, mix with 
4 ounces of cream tartar, and put it up in 
small oval boxes. 

379. To Remove Ink, Iron Mould, 
&c., from Linen. Wet the fijiger in water, 
dip it in the powder (see last receipt), and rub 
it on the spot gently, keeping it rather moist, 
and the stain will disappear without injuring 
the fabric. After the stain disappears, wash 
the linen in pure water. The salt of lemon 
used as a beverage is simply tartaric acid, put 
up in long bottles. The above is poisonous ff 
swallowed. 

380. To Remove Iron Mould and Ink 
j&:om Delicate Linen Fabrics. These may 
be taken out by wetting the spots in milk, 
then covering them with common salt. It 
should be done before the garments have 



been washed. Another way to take out ink 
is to dip it in melted tallow. For fine, deli- 
cate articles, this is the best way. 

381. To take out Mildew Spots. Wet 
the spots with a solution of chloride of soda 
(Labarraque's solution), or of chloride of lime 
(bleaching fiuid), or with chlorine water, and 
they wiU disappear immediately. Fruit and 
wine stains of all kinds may be removed in 
this way. (See also No. 128.) Starched lineij 
which has contracted mildew spots will re- 
quire an application each day for 2 or 3 days ; 
rinsing out and bleaching in the sunshine af- 
ter each application. 

382. To Remove Mildew. Mildew is 
easily removed by rubbing or scraping a little 
common yellow soap on the article, and then 
a little salt and starch on that. Rub all well 
on the article, and put in the sunshine. Or, 
soap the linen previously wetted, and apply 
salt and lemon juice to both sides ; or apply 
finely powdered pipe clay, or fuller's earth, or 
finely powdered chalk. Expose it for several 
hours to the atmosphere. 

383. To Extract Mildew. Mix soft soap 
with powdered starch, half as much salt, and 
the juice of a lemon, and lay on with a brush. 
Let it lay on the grass day and night till the 
stain is gone. This is a good receipt. Or, 
take 2 ounces chloride of fime, pour on it a 
quart of boiling water, then add 3 quarts of 
cold water ; steep the linen 10 or 12 hours, 
when every spot will be extracted. 

Mix oxalic acid, citric acid, and milk, togeth- 
er; rub into the linen; repeat as it dries; 
wash, and bleach on the grass. 

384. To Remove Common Ink Stains. 
Ink stains may be readily removed from 
white articles by means of a little salt of 
lemons, diluted muriatic acid, oxalic acid, or 
tartaric acid, and hot water ; or by means of 
a little solution of chlorine or chloride of lime. 
When the stain is caused by ink manufactured 
with logwood, a red mark remains, which may 
be removed by the application of a little chlo- 
ride of lime. AU strong acids and alkalies 
tend to injm-e the fabric ; therefore, immedi- 
ately the stains are removed, the spots should 
be well rinsed, and repeatedly, in cold water. 

385. To Remove Stains made by 
Hair Dye, or Indelible Ink. The stain- 
ing principle of common indelible ink is ni- 
trate of silver. It may be removed by first 
soaking in a solution of common salt, which 
produces chloride of silver, and afterwards 
washing with ammonia, which dissolves the 
chloride. jSTitrate of silver, or hair dye stains 
can be removed by a solution of 10 grains of 
cyanide of potassium, and 5 grains of iodine 
to 1 ounce of water; or a solution of 8 parts 
of perchloride of mercury and muriate of 
ammonia in 125 parts of water. (See Nos. 
129 and 387.) 

386. To Remove Marking-Ink from 
Linen. Dip the garment in a solution of 1 
ounce cyanide of potassium in 4 ounces of 
water. After a few hours the stain will be 
obliterated. This is very effectual, but the 
mixture is highly poisonous, and should be 
carefully removed. 

387. To Remove Silver Stains from 
the Hands. Put ^ pound glaul)er salts, i 
pound of the chloride of lime, and 8 ounces of 
water, into a little wide-mouthed bottle, and 



TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 



53 



when required for use pour some of the 
thick sediment into a saucer, and rub it well 
over the hands with pumice stone or a nail- 
brush, and it will clean the fingers quite equal 
to cyanide, but without any danger. This 
will do to use over again until exhausted, and 
should be kept corked up. The disagreeable 
smell may be entirely avoided by the liberal 
use of lemon juice, which not only entirely 
removes the smell, but whitens the hands. 

388. To Remove Stains from the 
Hands. Ink stauis, dye stains, fruit stains, 
etc., can be immediately removed by dipping 
the fingers in warm water and then rubbing 
on the stain a small portion of oxalic acid 
powder and cream of tartar, mixed together 
in equal quantities, and kept in a box. When 
the stain disappears, wash the hands with fine 
soap. This mixture, being poisonous, must be 
kept out of the reach of children. A few 
drops of oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) will also 
remove most stains from the hands without 
injuring them. Care must, however, be taken 
not to drop it upon the clothes. It will re- 
move the color from woolen, and eat holes in 
cotton fabrics. The juice of ripe tomatoes 
will remove the stain of walnuts from the 
hands, without injury to the skin. 

389. To take Ink Stains out of Ma- 
hogany. Put a few drops of spirits of nitre 
(nitric acid) in a tea- spoonful of water, touch 
the spot with a feather dipped in the mixture, 
and on the ink disappearing, rub it over im- 
mediately with a rag wetted in cold water, or 
there will be a white mark, which will not 
be easily effaced. 

390. To take Ink Spots out of Ma- 
hogany. Apply spirits of salts (muriatic 
acid ) with a rag until the spots disappear, and 
immediately afterward wash with clear water. 

391 . To Remove Ink from Mahogany. 
To i pint of soft water put 1 ounce of oxalic 
acid, and ^ ounce of butter (terchloride) of 
antimony ; shake it well, and when dissolved 
it will be very useful in extracting stains from 
mahogany, as well as ink, if not of too long 
standing. 

392. To Extract Ink from Floors. 
Eemove ink from floors by scouring them 
with sand wet with water and the oil of vit 
riol, mixed. Then rinse them with strong 
saleratus water. 

393. To Remove Stains on Mahog- 
any Furniture. Stains and spots may be 
taken out of mahoganj^- furniture by the use 
of a little aquafortis, or oxalic acid and water, 
by rubbing the part with the liquid, by means 
of a cork,"^till the color is restored; observing 
afterwards to well wash the wood with water 
and to drv and polish as usual. 

394. To Extract Oil from Boards, 
Marble or other Stones. Make a strong 
lye of pearlashes and soft water, and add as 
much unslacked lime as it will take up ; stir 
it together, and then let it settle a few min- 
utes; bottle it and stop close; have ready 
some water to dilute it when used, and scour 
the part with it. If the liquor should lie long 
on the boards, it will draw the color out of 
them ; therefore do it with care and expedi- 
tion. "WTien used for marble, the surface may 
be improved by rubbing or polishing after- 
ward with fine putty-powder and olive oil. 
(JTor Puttij Powder, see Index.) 



395. To take Oil and Grease out of 
Boards. Make a paste with fuller's earth and 
hot water, cover the spots therewith, let it 
dry on, and the next day scour it off" with soft 
or yellow soap. 

396. To Clean Marble. To clean mar- 
ble, mix quicklime with strong lye, so as to 
form a mixture having the consistency of 
cream, and apply it immediately with a brush. 
If this composition be allowed to remain for a 
day or two, and be then washed off with soap 
and water, the marble will appear as though 
it were new. 

397. To Clean Marble. Take 2 parts V 
of common soda, 1 part of pumice-stone, and 

1 part of finely powdered chalk; sift it 
through a fine sieve, and mix it with water ; 
then rub it well all over the marble, and the 
stains will be removed ; then wash the mar- 
ble over with soap and water, and it will be 
as clean as it was at first. 

398. How to Clean Marble. The fol- 
lowing is an excellent way of cleaning marble : 

First, brush the dust off the piece to be 
cleaned, then apply with a brush a good coat 
of gum arable, aljout the consistency of thick 
office mucilage ; expose it to the sun or dry 
wind, or both. In a short time it will crack 
and peel off. If all the gum should not peel 
off, wash it with clean water and a clean 
cloth. If the first application does not have 
the desired effect, it should be applied again. 

399. To Clean Marble. Mix I pound 
soft soap with the same of pounded whiting, 
1 ounce soda, and a piece of stone-blue the 
size of a walnut ; boil these together for ^ of 
an hour ; whilst hot, rub it over the marble 
with a piece of flannel, and leave it on for 24 
hours ; then wash it off with clean water, 
and polish the marble with a piece of coarse 
flannel, or, what is better, a piece of an old 
hat. 

400. To take Stains out of White 
Marble. Take 1 ox-gall, 1 wine-glass soap 
lees, i wine-glassful turpentine; mix and 
make into a paste with pipe clay. Put 
on the paste over the stain and let it remain 
for several days. If the stain is not fully re- 
moved a second application will generally 
prove sufficient. 

401. To Remove Oil Stains in Mar- 
ble. Stains in marble caused by oil can be 
removed by applying common clay saturated 
with benzine. If the grease has remained 
long enough it will have become acidulated, 
and may injure the polish, but the stain will 
be removed. 

402. To Remove Iron Mould or Ink 
from Marble. Iron mould and ink spots 
maj^ be taken out in the following manner : 
Take ^ ounce butter of antimony and 1 ounce 

-oxalic acid, and dissolve them in 1 pint rain 
water; add flour, and bring the composition to 
a proper consistence. Then lay it evenly on 
the stained part with a brush, and after it has 
remained for a few days wash it off, and re- 
peat the process if the stain is not quite le- 
moved. 

403. To Remove Stains from Mar- 
ble. Mix an ox-gall with a quarter of a 
pound of soap-boiler's lye, and an eighth of a 
pound of oil of turpentine, and add enough 
pipe-clay earth to form a paste, which is then 
to be placed upon the marble for a time^ and 



54= 



TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 



afterwards scraped off; tlie application to be re- 
peated until the marble is perfectly clean. It 
is quite possible that a faint trace of the stains 
may be left ; but this will be almost inappre- 
ciable. Should the spots be produced by oil, 
these are to be first treated with petroleum, 
for the purpose of softening the hardened oil, 
and the above-mentioned application may be 
made subsequently. 

404. To Bemove Printing Ink from 
any Article. Printing ink can be readily 
taken from any article by means of ether or 
oil of turpentine. Pure benzine will also 
have a similar effect. 

405. To Remove the Varnish from 
Oil Painting-s, &c. Tarnish and dirt can be 
removed by washing over with a weak solution 
of carbonate of ammonia, wiping it off with 
a sponge wetted with water as soon as it has 
fulfilled its object; if allowed to remain too 
long it will injure the oil colors. Another 
way is to spread a thick coat of wet fuller's 
earth over the surface of the varnish, leaving it 
on long enough to soften it ; it may then be 
removed by washing. 

406. To Clean Pictures. Havingtaken 
the picture out of the frame, take a clean 
towel, and, making it quite wet, lay it on the 
face of the picture, sprinkling it from time to 
time with clean soft water ; let it remain wet for 
2 or 3 days ; take the cloth off" and renew it 
with a fresh one. After wiping the picture 
with a clean wet sponge, repeat the process 
till you find all the dirt is soaked out of it ; 
then wash with a soft sponge, and let it get 
quite dry ; rub it with some clear nut or lin- 
seed oil, and it will look as well as when 
freshly done. 

407. To Clean Oil Paintings. Put 
into 2 quarts of strong lye, i pound of Genoa 
soap, rasped very fine, with 1 pint spirits of 
wine ; let them simmer on the fire for half an 
hour, then strain them through a cloth. Ap- 
ply the preparation with a brush to the pic- 
ture, wipe it off with a sponge, and apply it 
a second time, which will remove all dirt. 
Then with a little nut-oil warmed, rub the 
picture and let it dry. This will make it look 
as bright as when it came out of the artist's 
hands. If the canvas is injured by damp, md- 
dew or foul air, the first thing to be done is to 
stretch and line it with new canvas. 

408. To Clean Japanned Waiters and 
XTrns. Rub on with a sponge a little white 
soap and some lukewarm water, and wash the 
waiter or urn quite clean, l^ever use hot wa- 
ter, as it win cause the japan to scale off. 
Having wiped it dry, sprinkle a Kttle flour 
over it ; let it rest a while, and then rub it 
with a soft dry cloth, and finish with a silk 
handkerchief. If there are white heat marks 
on the waiters, they will be difficult to re- 
move ; but you may try rubbing them with a 
flannel dipped in sweet oil, and afterwards in 
spirits of wine. "Waiters and other articles of 
papier maclie should be washed with a sponge 
and cold water, without soap, dredged with 
flour while damp, and after a while wiped off, 
and then polished with a silk handkerchief. 

409. Method of Cleaning Paper Hang- 
ings. Cut into 8 portions a loaf of bread 2 
days old ; it must neither be newer nor sta- 
ler. With one of these pieces, after having 
blown off all the dust from the paper to be i 



cleaned, by the means of a good pair of bel- 
lows, begin at the top of the room, holding the 
crust in the hand, and wiping lightly down- 
ward with the crumb, about half' a yard at 
each stroke, till the upper part of the paper is 
completely cleaned all round. Then go round 
again, with the like sweeping stroke down- 
wards, always commencing each successive 
course a little higher than the upper stroke 
had extended, till the bottom be finished. 
This operation, if carefully performed, will 
frequently make very old paper look almost 
equal to new. Great caution must be used 
not by any means to rub the paper hard, nor 
to attempt cleaning it the cross or horizontal 
way. The dirty part of the bread, too, must 
be continually cut away, and the pieces re- 
newed as soon as may become necessary. 

410. To take Grease Stains out of 
Wall Papers. Oil marks, and marks where 
people have rested their heads, can be taken 
from the paper on drawing-room walls by 
mixing pipe-clay with water to the consist- 
ency of cream, laying it on the spot, and let- 
ting it remain till the following day, when it 
maybe easily removed with a penknife or brush. 

411. To take G-rease from Paper, 
Gently warm the parts containing the grease,, 
and apply blotting-paper so as to extract as 
much as possible. Boil some clear essential 
oil of turpentine and apply it to the warm 
paper with a soft clean brush. A little recti- 
fied spirits of wine should be put over after- 
ward. 

412. To take out Stains of Ink from 
Books. Oxymuriatic acid removes, per> 
fectly, stains of ink ; and should the paper re- 
quire bleaching, the operation will answer 
both ends at the same time. linearly all the 
acids will remove spots of ink from paper ; 
but it is important to use such as do not at- 
tack its texture. Spirits of salt (muriatic 
acid) diluted in 5 or 6 times the quantity of 
water, may be applied with success upon the 
spot, and after a minute or two, washing it off 
with clean water. A solution of oxalic acid, 
citric acid, and tartaric acid, is attended with 
the least risk, and may be applied upon the 
paper and plates without fear of damage. 
These acids taking out writing ink, and not 
touching the printing, can be used for restor- 
ing books where the margins have been writ- 
ten upon, without attacking the text. 

413. To Remove Yellow Stains from 
the Margins of Engravings. The yellow 
stains on the margin of engravings may be 
removed by a solution of hydrochloride of 
soda. This liquid is commonly known under 
the name of Labarraque's solution. 

414. To Clean Silver or Gold Lace. 
Lay the lace smooth on a woolen carpet or 
piece of woolen cloth, and brush it free from 
dust, then burn rock alum and powder it fine, 
and afterwards sift it through a lawn sieve ; 
then rub it over the lace with a fine brush, 
and in so doing it wiU take off the tarnish and 
restore it to its brightness, if it be not too 
much worn on the threads. 

415. To Clean Papier Mach6. Papier 
mache articles should be washed with a sponge 
and cold water, without soap, dredged with 
flour while damp, and polished with a flannel. 

416. To Clean Hair Brushes and 
Combs. Wash the bristles for a few seconds 



TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 



55 



in a weak solution of hartshorn^ say a table- 
spoonful to a pint of cold soft water. Then 
rinse in clean cold water, and dry. Do not 
set them near the fire, nor in the sun, to dry, 
but, after shaking: them well, set them on the 
point of the handle in a shady place. By this 
process the brush will be thoroughly cleansed 
with very little trouble. Observe that the 
mahogany or satin-wood back of the brush 
must be kept out of the solution, as it is apt 
to discolor wood. Combs may be cleaned in 
the same manner. 

417. To Clean Looking Glasses. 
Take part of a newspaper, fold it small, dip it 
in a basin of clean cold water, and when it is 
thoroughly wet squeeze it out as a sponge, and 
then rub it hard over the face of the glass, 
taking care that it is not so wet as to rundown 
in streams. After the glass has been well 
Tabbed with the wet paper, let it rest a few 
minutes and then go over it with a fresh dry 
newspaper, tiJl it looks clear and bright, which 
it will do almost immediately. The inside of 
windows may be cleaned in this way, and they 
will look beautifully clear. 

418. To Clean Straw Matting. Wash 
it with weak salt and water and dry it weU, 
or boil a small bag of bran in 2 gallons of wa- 
ter, and wash the matting with the water, 
drying it well. 

419. To Clean Cane-Bottom Chairs. 
Turn up the chair bottom, and with hot wa- 
ter and a sponge wash the canework well, so 
that it may become completely soaked. 
Should it be very dirty you must add soap. 
Let it dry in the open air if possible, or in a 
place where there is a thorough draught, and 
it will become as tight and firm as when new, 
provided it has not been broken. 

420. To Clean Sheepskin Rugs or 
Mats. Make a very strong lather, by boil- 
ing soap in a little water; mix this with a suf- 
ficient quantity of water (rather more than 
lukewarm) to wash the mat or rug in, and 
rub boiled soap on those portions of it which 
require additional cleansing. When the mat 
has been well washed in this water, prepare 
another lather in the same way, in which a 
second washing must take place, followed by 
a third, which ought to be sufficient to cleanse 
it thoroughly. Einse it well in cold water 
until all the soap is removed, and then put it 
in water in which a little blue has been mixed, 
sufficient to keep the wool of a good white, 
and prevent its inclining to yellow. After this 
it should be thoroughly wrung, shaken, and 
hung out in the open air with the skin part 
towards the sun, but not while it is scorching, 
otherwise the skin will become hard. It 
must also be shaken often while drying, for if 
not, it will be quite stiff" and crackly. It 
should be frequently turned, being hung up 
fisit by one end and then by the other, until 
it has dried entirely. 

421. To Clean Knives and Forks. 
Procm-e a smooth board, free from knots, or 
one covered with leather. If the latter, melt 
a sufficient quantity of mutton- suet, and put 
it hot upon the leather with a piece of flannel; 
then take two pieces of soft Bath brick, and 
rub them one against the other over the leath- 
er till it is covered with the powder, which 
rub in until no grease comes through when a 
knife is passed over the leather, which may 



easily be known oy the knife keeping its pol- 
ish. If only a plain board, rub the Bath brick 
2 or 3 times over it ; if too much be put on 
at once it will make the blades of the knives 
look rough and scratched. Let the board be 
of a proper height, and set so that the person 
may be a little on the stoop while cleaning 
the knives. Take a knife in each hand, holding 
them back to back ; stand opposite the mid- 
dle of the board ; lay the knives flat upon it, 
and do not bear too hard upon them ; l3y this 
method it will be easier to clean two knives 
at a time than one, and they will be less liable 
to be broken, for good knives wiU snap when 
pressed on too heavily. Many will say that 
they cannot clean two knives at once, or that 
they can get through them faster one by one ; 
but if they will only try it a few times in the 
way recommended, they will find it not only 
much more expeditious, but easier. A little 
practice is all that is necessary. 

The best way to clean steel forks is to fill a 
small ban-el with fine gravel, brick dust, or 
sand, mixed with a little hay or moss; make 
it moderately damp, press it well down, and 
let it always be kept damp. By running the 
prongs of the steel forks a few times into this, 
all the stains on them will be removed. 
Then have a small stick, shaped like a knife; 
with leather round it, to polish between the 
prongs, having first carefnUy brushed the dust 
from them as soon as they are taken out of the 
tub. A knife-board is often spoiled in clean- 
ing forks upon it, and likewise the backs of 
the knives ; to prevent this, have a piece of 
old hat or leather put on the board where the 
forks and backs of the knives are cleaned. 

422. To Preserve Knives and Forks 
in Good Condition. Wipe the knives and 
forks as soon as possible after being used, as 
the longer they are left with grease and stains 
on them the harder they will be to clean ; 
particularly if they have been used for acids, 
salads, tarts, etc.; have then a jug of hot wa- 
ter ready to put them into as soon as done 
with, and wipe them as before directed. 

In order to keep knives and forks in good 
condition when they are not in use, rub the 
steel part with a flannel dipped in oil ; wipe 
the oil off after a few hours, as there is often 
water in it; or dust the blades and prongs 
with quicklime, finely powdered and kept in a 
muslin bag. 

423. To Clean Spice Mills. It is often 
desired to grind different si)ices, orange or 
lemon peel, in the same mill, without any one 
being affected by another spice. Grrind a tea- 
spoonful of rice through the miU and all impu- 
ritieswillberemoved. Acoffee millmaybe fit- 
ted to grind any spice in the same way, using 
rather more rice. The rice will of course be 
flavored by whatever may have been in the 
mill. It is useful to thicken soups, or gravies, 
or sauces, when the spice is no objection. 

424. To Keep Oil-Cloths Looking 
"WeU. Wash them once a month in skim 
milk and water, equal quantities of each. 
Rub them once in three months with boiled lin- 
seed oil. Put on very little, rub it well in 
with a rag, and polish with a piece of old silk. 
Oil-cloths will last years if kept in this way. 

425. To Clean Oil-Cloth. An oil-cloth 
should never be scrubbed with a brush, but, 
after being first swept, should be cleaned by 



56 



TO BEMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 



washing with a soft flannel and lukewarm or 
cold water. On no account use soap, or wa- 
ter that is hot, as either would have a had ef- 
fect on the paint. "When the oil-cloth is drj, 
ruh it well with a small portion of a mixture 
of hees' wax, softened with a minute quantity 
of turpentine, using for this purpose a soft 
furniture pohshing brush. Oil-cloth cared for 
in this way will last twice the time than with 
ordinary treatment. 

426."^ To Give to Boards a Beautiful 
Appearance. After washing them very 
nicely with soda and warm water and a brush, 
wash them with a very large sponge and clean 
water. Both times observe to leave no spot 
untouched ; and clean straight up and down, 
not crossing from board to board ; then dry 
with clean cloths, rubbed hard up and down 
in the same way. 

The floors should not be often wetted, but 
very thoroughly when done ; and once a week 
dry-rubbed with hot sand and a heavy brush, 
the right way of the boards. 

The sides of stairs or passages on which are 
carpets or floor-cloth, should be washed with 
sponge instead of linen or flannel, and the 
edges will not be soiled. Different sponges 
should be kept for the above two uses ; and 
those and the brushes should be weU washed 
when done with, and kept in dry places. 

427. To Scour Boards. Lime, 1 part ; 
sand, 3 parts ; soft soap, two parts. Lay a 
little on the boards with a scrubbing-brush, 
and rub thoroughly. Rinse with clean wa- 
ter and rub dry. This will keep the boards 
of a good color, and will also keep away 
vermin. 

428. To Clean Stone Stairs and HaUs. 
Boil 1 pound of pipe-clay with a quart water, 
and a quart small beer, and put in a bit of 
stone-blue. Wash with this mixture, and, 
when dry, rub the stone with flannel and a 
brush. 

429. To Clean Glass Globes. If the 
globes are much stained on the outside by 
smoke, soak them in tolerably hot water with 
a little washing soda dissolved in it ; then put 
a tea-spoonful of powdered ammonia into a 
pan of lukewarm water, and with a tolerably 
hard brush wash the globes till the smoke 
stain disappears ; rinse in clean cold water, 
and let them drain till dry ; they wiQ be quite 
as white and clear as new globes. 

430. To Clean Decanters. There is 
often much difficulty experienced in cleaning 
decanters, especially after port wine has stood 
in them for some time. The best way is to 
wash them out with a little pearl ash and 
warm water, adding a spoonful or two of fresh 
slaked lime if necessary. To facilitate the 
action of the fluid against the sides of the 
glass, a few small cinders may be used. 

Or, soak the decanters for some hours in 
warm soda and water ; if there is much cut- 
ting on the outside, a brush will be necessar}- 
to remove the dirt and stains from the crev- 
ices. Cut a potato into small dice, put a 
good handful of these into the decanter with 
some warm water, shake the decanter briskly 
until the stains disappear ; rinse in clean cold 
water, and let them drain until dry. Yinegar 
and sauce cruets can be cleaned in the same 
way. 

431. To Clean Glass Bottles. Chop 



up a large potato very fine and put it in the 
bottle with some warm water, and shake it 
rapidly until it is clean. Some use shot and 
soda, but potato is even more effectual. 

432. To Clean Medicine Phials. 
Cleanse bottles that have had medicines in 
them, by putting ashes in each, immersing 
them in cold water, and then heating the wa- 
ter gradually till it boils. After boiling an 
hour, let them remain in the water till it is 
cold. "Wash them in soap-suds, and rinse 
them till clean in clear water. 

433. To Wash Castor Bottles. Put 
them ^ full of rice and fill up with warm 
water; shake them well; this wiU cleanse 
them thoroughly. 

434. To Clean Greasy Earthenware. 
Stone pots and jars in which lard or fat has 
been kept, and yellow ware pie plates, may be 
cleaned by putting them in a kettle with 
ashes or sal soda, covering them with cold 
water, and allowing them to boil slowly an hour 
at least. When boiled enough, take them off 
the fire and leave them in the water until it 
cools. 

435. To Clean Paint. There is a very 
simple method to clean paint that has become 
dirty, and if our housewives should adopt it, 
it would save them a great deal of trouble. 
Provide a plate with some of the best whit- 
ing to be had, and have ready some clean warm 
water and a piece of flannel, which dip into 
the water and squeeze nearly dry ; then take 
as much whiting as will adhere to it, ap- 
ply it to the painted surface, when a little 
rubbing will instantly remove any dirt or 
grease. After which wash the part well with 
clean water, rubbing it dry with a soft cha- 
mois. Paint thus cleaned looks as well as 
when first laid on, without any injury to the 
most delicate colors. It is far better than 
using soap, and does not require more than 
half the time and labor. 

Another simple method is as follows: — pat 
a table-spoonful of aqua ammonia in a quart 
of moderately hot water, dip in a flannel 
cloth, and with this merely wipe over the 
wood- work ; no scrubbing will be necessary. 

436. To Clean Varnished Paint. Boil 
a pound of bran in 1 gallon of water an hour, 
and wash the paint with the bran water. 

437. To Clean Soiled Ribbons and 
Silks. A mixture of alcohol and highly 
rectified benzine is excellent for cleaning rib- 
bons and silks. It is applied with a clean 
sponge. Persons who apply these liquids and 
mixtures to cleaning silks, &c., must be care- 
ful to do so in an apartment where there is 
neither fire nor lamp burning, under the pen- 
alty of an explosion. (See No. 346.) 

438. To Remove Stains from Kid 
Gloves. Stains may be removed, even from 
the most delicately colored gloves, by sus- 
pendino- them for a day in an atmosphere of 
ammonia. Provide a tall glass cylinder, in the 
bottom of which place strong aqua ammonia. 
Be careful to remove from the sides of the jar 
any ammonia that may have been spattered 
upon them. Suspend the gloves to the stop- 
per in the jar. They must not come in con- 
tact with the liquid. 

439. To Clean Kid Gloves. Dr. Eei- 
mann gives the following directions, in the 
Scientific American, for cleaning kid gloves:—. 



TO REMOVE STAINS AX I) SPOTS. 



57 



A bottle 2 feet high, and 1 to 1^ feet wide, 
the stopper of which is also made of glass, is 
filled with 2 pounds of benzine. Then the 
gloves which are to be washed are put also 
into the bottle. On this account the neck of 
the bottle must be very wide, perhaps from ^ 
to f foot in diameter. Such bottles are easily 
obtained, being much used in pharmacy. As 
many gloves may be introduced into the bot- 
tle as the liquid will cover. The bottle is 
then closed, well shaken, and allowed to 
stand some minutes. The shaking is repeated, 
the bottle opened, and the gloves taken out 
with a pair of iron forceps. 

To prevent the possibility of there being 
any smeU, it is a good plan to open the bottle 
under a good chimney, which thus carries off 
all the vapor that escapes. 

The gloves, when brought by the forceps to 
the mouth of the bottle, are taken out, one 
after the other, by the hand, and wrung out, 
care being taken that the superfluous liquid 
runs back again into the bottle. It is highly 
advisable to perform this operation under a 
chimney, or the workman will soon suffer 
from the injurious influence of the volatile 
hydrocarbon. 

Under the chimney is placed a cord stretch- 
ed between two pins, and the gloves are 
hung upon this by means of small S-shaped 
hooks. After hanging a short time they will 
be dry. 

The benzine contained in the bottle dis- 
solves all the grease which adheres to the 
gloves, and the dirt which had been com- 
bined with the grease is consequently re- 
moved at the same time. The benzine re- 
maining in the bottle assumes a dirty gray 
color during the process of washing. 

"VHien the benzine has become too dirty, it is 
put into a distilling apparatus, and distilled 
over. In this way the benzine is restored to 
its original pmity and whiteness, so that it 
can be used again in further operations. (For 
directions hoiv to accomjMsh tliis, see next re- 
ceipt.) 

The gloves, when taken out of the bottle, 
are often not quite clean, in which case it is 
necessary to rub them -vxdth a rag, moistened 
with benzine, in all places where they are still 
dirty. 

Thus the last traces of dirt are removed, 
and the gloves become perfectly clean. In 
this state they may be hung on a cord under 
the chimney. " 

The gloves soon become diy, but a part of 
the benzine still remains behind, which is less 
volatile, and which, when the glove is in con- 
tact with the warm hand, causes a strong odor 
of benzine to be evolved. 

To remove this also, the gloves are placed 
on a common plate, which is put upon an iron 
pot containing boiling water. The first plate 
IS covered with a second, and the gloves be- 
tween the two plates are heated at the boiling 
temperature of water, until the last traces of 
the unvolatilized benzine have escaped. 

The gloves are now removed from the plate, 
and put upon a wooden glove- stretcher, or 
shape. In this way they are made to resume 
their original form, and are now ready for 
use. 

The whole operation must be so conducted 
that no smell of benzine is perceptible. The I 



smell of benzine is always a sign of careless- 
ness on the part of the workman, who can 
readily conduct all the benzine vapors up the 
chimney. (aScc ^Vo. 346.) 

440. To Re-Distill and Purify Ben- 
zine that has been used for Cleaning 
Kid Gloves. If the operation of distilling 
the benzine is disagreeable to the glove maker, 
he can have it purified at the apothecary's or 
chemist's. It is, however, an operation which 
he can readily perform himself 

The apparatus is neither complicated nor 
expensive. A small wooden pail, such as is 
used in every establishment, is furnished with 
two holes. The first of these is drilled near 
the upper margin of the pail, so that, when 
the pail is filled with water, the water runs 
out through the hole, until the surface of the 
water within the pail is on a level with the 
lowest portion of the hole, that is to say, just 
below the upper margin of the vessel. 

On the opposite side of the pail another 
hole is made, but this time near its bottom, so 
that water would run through this hole, until 
the sui-plus of the contained water was within 
a short distance of the bottom. 

A leaden tube, the thickness of which 
equals the diameter of the hole, is bent so as 
to form a distilling worm, the upper end of 
which is inserted into the upper opening, and 
the lower end into the lower hole. 

The tube is tightly inserted into both holes, 
so that no water can run through the space 
between the tube and the hole. 

The pail is then filled with cold water. 

The upper and lower ends of the leaden 
tube must project a little beyond the outer 
surface of the pail — ^perhaps two inches. 

The lower end is bent downward a little. 
The upper end is a little enlarged, so that the 
tube forms a sort of funnel above. 

In this is inserted a glass retort, conve- 
niently fixed in a holder. 

The space between the neck of the retort 
and the enlarged end of the leaden tube is 
conveniently filled with moistened cotton, 
so that no vapors can escape through it. 

It is a good plan to employ a glass retort 
with a tube, so that any fluid can be pom-ed 
into it when the apparatus is already fixed. 

Having placed the retort on a vapor bath, 
where it can be heated at 212° Fahr., the neck 
of the retort is connected with the worm, an 
above mentioned, and the pail filled up witl\ 
cold water. The retort is then filled with tht 
impure benzine or petroleum essence whicL 
has been used in washing gloves. 

After j)ouring in the benzine, the tube ol 
the retort is closed by a stopper, and then the 
apparatus is completed by a bottle placed un- 
der the lower end of the leaden tube, which 
projects beyond the outer surface of the pail, 
so that the liquid running down this flows 
directly into the bottle. 

The vapor bath is now heated, the retort 
soon becomes warm, and the volatile liquid 
begins to distill over, either quickly or slowly, 
according to the way iu which the heating 
process is conducted. 

The vapor of the hydrocarbon condenses 
in the worm, and a stream of liquid flows out 
of its mouth. In a short time there remain? 
behind in the retort only the grease which the 
benzine has extracted from the gloves. 



58 



TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 



441. To Refine Ox-gall for Fixing 
Chalk and Pencil Drawings, and Re- 
moving Grease. Allow fresh ox- gall to re- 
pose for 12 or 15 hoars, decant the clear, and 
evaporate to the consistence of a thick syrup, 
in a water-bath; then spread it thinly on a 
dish, and expose it before the fire, or to a cur- 
rent of dry air, until nearly dry. It will then 
keep for years m wide-mouthed bottles or pots, 
covered over with bladder. For «se, a little 
is dissolved in water. 

Or: — afresh gall, 1 pint; boil, skim, add pound- 
ed alum, 1 ounce ; boil again until the alum is 
dissolved, and when sufficiently cool, pour it 
into a bottle, and loosely cork it down ; in a 
similar manner boil and skim another pint of 
gaU, and add to it 1 ounce of common salt ; 
boil tin dissolved, and cool and bottle as 
above. In three months decant the clear 
from both bottles, and mix them in equal 
quantities; the clear portion must then be 
separated from the coagulum by subsidence or 
filtration. It is employed by artists to fix 
chalk and pencil drawings before tinting them, 
and to remove the greasiness from ivory, tra- 
cing paper, &c. It is also used to extract 
grease and oil from clothes : for the latter 
purpose it answers admirably. 

442. To Clean Cloth Clothes. Dis- 
solve 4 ounces washing soda in 1 quart boiKng 
water ; when dissolved, add to it 1 moderate 
sized fresh beefs gall ; lay the garment to be 
cleaned on a clean table or board, and with a 
sponge or brush (a brush is the best) wetted 
in the liquid, rub well the grease spots first, 
and afterwards the whole garment, frequently 
dipping the sponge or brush in the liquid; 
when sufficiently rubbed, rinse in cold water 
until the water is clear, then squeeze the wa- 
ter out thoroughly (but without twisting — if 
possible, use a patent wringer), shake well and 
hang in the air to dry. While drying, shake 
the garment occasionally and pull it into 
shape to prevent shrinking. "When still 
slightly damp, press it on the wrong side 
with a warm iron, and then finish au'ing. 
Clothes cleaned in this way, if the directions 
be strictly followed, look almost equal tp new. 
The use of the patent wringing machine is a 
great improvement in this operation, as it has- 
tens drying, and prevents shrinking. The 
editor has used this receipt in his family for 
the last 15 years with the most satisfactory 
results. For dark-colored cloth garments, it 
is a common practice to add some fuller's 
earth to the mixture of soap and gall. When 
nearly dry, the nap should be laid right, and 
the garment carefully pressed, after which, a 
brush, moistened with a drop or two of olive 
oil, should be passed over it several times ; 
this will give it a superior finish. 

443. To Clean Woolen Clothes. Mix 
\ ounce sulphuric ether and -^ ounce hartshorn 
(ammonia water) with 3 ounces water. Rub 
the article well with a sponge frequently 
wetted with the mixture, which will remove 
the dirt; then sponge with clean warm wa- 
ter; next lay a coarse towel, which has 
been saturated with hot water and wrung out, 
over the article, and press it with a hot 
iron ; while the steam is still rising from the 
cloth, brush it down with a clothes brush. 

444. To Clean Carpets. Carpets may 
be cleaned as follows : Take them up 



and shake and beat them, so as to render 
them perfectly free from dust. Have the 
floor thoroughly scom-ed and dry, and nail the 
carpet firmly down upon it. If still mueh 
soiled it may be cleaned in the following man- 
ner : Take a pailful of clean cold spiing wa- 
ter, and put into it about 3 gills of ox- gall. 
Take another pail vdth clean cold water only. 
IS^ow rub with a soft scrubbing brush some of 
the ox-gall water on the carpet, which vrill 
raise a lather. When a convenient sized por- 
tion is done, wash the lather off witb. a clean 
linen cloth dipped in the clean water. Let 
this water be changed frequently. When all 
the lather has disappeared, rub the part with 
a clean dry cloth. After all is done, open the 
window to allow the carpet to dry. A carpet 
treated in this way will be greatly refreshed 
in color, particularly the greens. Any particu- 
larly dirty spots should be rubbed by nearly 
pm-e gall first ; and every spot of grease must 
be removed from the carpet by the following 
process : Scrape and pound together, in equal 
proportion, magnesia in the lump and ful- 
ler's earth. Having mixed these substances 
well together, pour on them a sufficient quan- 
tity of boiling water to make them into a 
paste. Lay this paste, as hot as possible, upon 
the grease spots upon the carpet, and let it 
dry. IvText day, when the composition is 
quite dry, brush it off, and the grease spot 
will have disappeared. (See No. 357.) 

445. To Clean Hearth Rugs and 
Stair Carpets. Hearth rugs and stair car- 
pets may be treated in the same manner asi 
given in the last receipt, only that these may 
be spread and washed upon a table. 

446. How to Clean Carpets. Carpets, 
may be washed on tables or on the floor. In 
either case they must be taken up and well 
beaten and swept. Grease is taken out by 
rubbing hard soap on the spot, and scrubbing 
it out with a brush dipped in clean cold water. 
Each spot must be rubbed dry with a cloth as 
it is washed. Dissolve a bar of soap in 2 gal- 
lons of water, by cutting it into the water 
and heating to a boil. Lay the carpet on 
the floor and tack it down, or have a heavy 
board, 3 feet vdde by 12 feet long, laid on 
stout stands, or horses, and throw the carpet 
over that, keeping a clean board or sheet un- 
derneath to receive the carpet as it is cleansed. 
Provide brushes, and a quantity of coarse 
cotton cloths, flannels, and a large sponge. 
Take 2 pails filled with blood-warm water, 
put 2 quarts of the melted soap into one of 
them to scour the carpet with, and use the 
other for rinsing. Dip the brush in the 
soap-suds, and scour a square yard of the 
carpet at a time, using as little water as possi- 
ble, not to soak it through. When the 
soap has done its work, rub it weU out of the 
carpet with a flannel or coarse sponge, suck- 
ing up with these all the wet and dirt left by 
the brush, rinsing the article used in clean 
water repeatedly. Have ready a pall of clean 
cold water, with enough sulphuric acid or 
sharp vinegar in it to taste sour ; dip a clean 
sponge in this, squeeze and rub it well into 
the spot just cleansed. Afterward wipe dry 
with coarse cloths, rinsing and hanging them 
where they will be dry when the next yard is 
washed. Finish yard after yard in this way, 
rubbing each clean and dry as you go. Keep 



TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 



59 



a good fire in the room to dry the carpet 
thoroughly. If scoured on a frame, nail the 
carpet against the side of a house in the sun 
to dry. This is a tedious, but thorough pro- 
cess. Hearth rugs may be cleaned in the 
same way, beating and brushing them weU, 
and tacking on a largo board before washing. 
Scrab one-sixth of it at a time unless you are 
expeditious, and dry well with an old sheet. 
The secret of having carpets look weU is to 
wash and rinse them thoroughly, without 
soaking them through. Ingrain, tapestry, 
Brussels, and Turkish carpets are all cleaned 
in this way. Good authorities recommend a 
tea-cupful" of ox-gall to a pail of soap-suds, 
rinsing with clean water. {See No. 444.) 

447. To Sweep Carpets. Before ap- 
plying the broom, scatter over the carpet the 
refuse tea-leaves from the tea-pot. These 
should be set apart and saved in a pot kept 
for the purpose, squeezing the water out thor- 
oughly in the hand. First rub the leaves 
into the carpet with the broom, and then 
sweep as usual. This wiU prevent dust and 
brighten the colors. Indian meal is recom- 
mended for this purpose by many experienced 
housekeepers. 

448. To Clean Colored Silks, Moreens, 
Chintzes, and Printed Cottons. Colored 
or black silks, moreens, printed cottons, and 
chintzes, may be cleaned, without injmy to 
their colors, by potato liquor. Grate raw po- 
tatoes to a fine pulp ; add water in the pro- 
portion of 1 pint to 1 pound of potatoes ; pass 
the liquid through a coarse sieve into a vessel, 
and aUow it to remain till the fine white 
starch subsides to the bottom. Pour off the 
clear liquor, which is to be used for cleaning. 
Spread the article to be cleaned upon a table, 
which should be covered with a linen cloth ; 
dip a sponge in the liquor, and apply it until 
the dirt is removed. Then linse the article in 
clean cold water several times. 

449. To Clean Old Tapestry on the 
Wall. Old tapestry is cleaned on the wall, 
beginning at the top. Melt a bar of good 
common soap in a gallon of water, and put 1 
quart of it in a gallon of cold water. A 
clothes brush of fine broom straw or long 
bristles is best to dust with; a soft brush, 
piece of wash-leather, some flannels, and dry 
sheets are also needed. Brush all dust from 
the tapestry first, cleainng the corners weU. 
Dip a flannel in the suds, squeeze it slightly, 
rub the tapestry to a lather, and brush well 
with a soft brush. "Wring the flannel out of 
the soap, and rub the tapestry dry with it and 
wash-leather ; lastly wiping the whole as dry 
as possible with a sheet, as it must not be 
rinsed. Melt 4 ounces of tartaric acid in a 
pint of boiling water, and add to it 2 gallons 
of clean water. Squeeze a clean sponge in 
this acid, and rub it well into the place just 
cleaned and dried ; then finish with the dry 
sheet at once before going to the next 3-ard of 
surface. Renew the suds and rinsing water 
frequently, as weU as the towels, flannels, 
etc., for everything must be used clean. A 
good fire should be kept in the room when 
tepestry is cleaned. "Wlien dry, rub a lump 
of pipe-clay well into it, and brush it out 
with a good clothes brush. This takes the 
soap out and brightens the colors. "Worsted 
work may be cleaned in this way. 



450. To Clean Silk and Cotton, or 
Silk and Worsted Damask, Terry, or 
Brocatelle Curtains. SUk and cotton, or 
silk and worsted damask, teny, or brocateUe 
curtains, are cleaned over a board by scrub- 
bing with i a gallon camphene and a brush, 
fii-st dipping the curtain into the camphene, 
then cleaning on the wrong side, and lastly on 
the right. Dij) it again into the camphene 
just used, and rinse in the same amount of 
fresh camphene. Let it drain a minute, then 
wipe it off with a linen or cotton sheet till 
all the moisture possible is absorbed, and 
brush it with a dry brush of soft hair. Hang 
them in the air a few hours to take away the 
smell of camphene. 1 gallon is enough for 
each curtain width. ]Srext roll the curtains in 
half-dry sheets to damp them; take them 
out ; brush and rub them ; then iron, with a 
damp cloth laid over them, and they wiU look 
like new. 

451. To Clean Worsted Reps. "Wors- 
ted rep sofas, and worsted furniture of any 
kind, are freshened by dusting damp Indian 
meal over them, and rubbing off with a stifl 
brush. Dry bran is said to answer the same 
purpose, or very light, dry snow, not suffered 
to melt on the smface. A large sheet should 
be spread under each piece of furniture, as it 
is cleaned, to catch the falling litter. 

452. To Clean Table-Covers of Cot- 
ton and Worsted, Silk and Worsted, or 
Printed Cloth. Dissolve 1 bar of the best 
mottled soap in 4 gallons of scalding water, 
with 1 pound of pearlash in it. Have 3 tubs 
ready, and put in the first, 1 pail of cold wa- 
ter and 3 gallons of soap liquor ; in the second, 
1 pail of cold water and 2 gallons of soap li- 
quor ; and in the thii'd, 2 pails of cold water 
and 1 gallon of soap liquor. In another tub 
have 6 pails of cold water, with a table-spoon- 
ful of oil of vitriol in it. If the cover is cot- 
ton and worsted, wash and wring it through 
the three soap-waters ; rinse it five minutes in 
the vitriol tub, and wring out of cold, clear 
water ; fold it up smoothly to drain, and hang 
it to dry without wringing. 

For a silk and worsted cover use three soap- 
waters ; rub it well, and, instead of the vit- 
riol, put a pound of common salt in 2 pails of 
water, and work the cloth well in this. Rinse 
it in 2 cold waters after the salted one, and 
hang it to dry in a warm room. 

A printed cloth wash through three soap- 
hquors ; if one has a variety of table-cloths, 
of difterent mixtures, they may be put through 
the same suds in the order given in these di- 
rections, using different rinses for each. Give 
the printed cloth, after the last soap-liquor, 
two cold waters, with a table-spoonful of vit- 
riol in each ; after these, a cold, clear water. 
Fold and drain it, and dry quickly in a warm 
room, or the colors will run into one another. 
To press table-cloths, lay them under a damp 
sheet, and iron with a heavy iron. 

453. To Clean White^ Jean Boots. If 
you have not boot-trees, stuff the boot as fuU 
as possible with common cotton Avadding or 
old rags, to prevent any creases ; then mix 
some pipe-clay with water to rather a stiff 
paste, wash the jean boots with soap and wa- 
ter and a nail brush, using as little water as 
possible to get the dirt off. AVhen they look 
tolerably clean, rub the pipe-clay with a flan- 



CO 



TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 



nel well over them and hang them to dry. 
"WTien dry, beat out the superfluous clay with 
the hand and rub them till they look smooth. 
Flake white may also be used. 

454. To Clean White Kid Boots. If 
the kid boots are not very soiled they may be 
cleaned in the following manner : Put ^ ounce 
of hartshorn into a saucer, dip a bit of clean 
flannel in it and rub it on a piece of white 
eurd soap ; rub the boots with this, and as 
each piece of flannel becomes soiled, take a 
^resn piece ; the boots will look like new. 

455. To Clean White Satin Shoes. 
White satin shoes may be cleaned by rubbing 
them with stone blue and flannel, and after- 
wards cleaning them with bread. 

456. To Clean Black, and Other 
Silks, with old Kid Gloves. Cut up a 
black kid glove in small pieces and pour a 
pint of boiling water over it. Cover it and 
let it stand all night where the water will keep 
warm if possible. In the morning let it boil 
up, strain it, and add 1 dessert-spoonful of alco- 
hol. Keep it warm while sponging the silk 
on the right side and iron immediately on the 
wrong side. For light silks use white or 
light kid gloves. It will do without the al- 
cohol, but is better with it. 

457. To Clean Black Silks. Steep a 
few hours in cold water. Then put J a pint 
of the Black Reviver in ^ a gallon of water, 
and a cupful of ox-gall. Make hot, and sponge 
the silk. Dry and smooth with an iron. {See 
iiextreceijH). 

Eusty black silk may be cleaned in the 
same way. Some persons clean black silk by 
rubbing it with a flannel dipped in gin. 

458. Black Beviver, to Bestore the 
Color of Black Silk, Cloth or Leather. 
Take of blue galls, bruised, 4 ounces ; logwood, 
copperas, iron filings free from grease, and 
sumach leaves, each 1 ounce. Put all but 
the iron filings and copperas into 1 quart good 
vinegar, and set the vessel containing them 
in a warm water bath for twenty-four hours, 
then add the iron filings and copperas and 
shake occasionally for a week. It should be 
kept in a well-corked bottle. It may be ap- 
plied to faded spots with a soft sponge. It is 
good also to restore the black color of leather 
when it turns red, the leather being previously 
weU cleaned with soap and water. 

459. To Bestore Black Silk. To ox- 
gall, add boiling water sufficient to make it 
warm, and with a clean sponge rub the silk 
well on both sides ; squeeze it well out, and 
proceed again in like manner. Kinse it in 
spring water, and change the water till per- 
fectly clean; dry it in the ah*, then dip the 
sponge in glue-water, and rub it on the wrong 
side ; pin it out on a table, and dry before a fire. 

460. To Clean Silks, Satins, Colored 
Woolen Dresses, &c. 4 ounces of soft 
soap, 4 ounces of honey, the white of an egg, 
and a wine-glassful of gin; mix weU together, 
and scour the article (which must be unpicked, 
and laid in widths on a kitchen table) with a 
rather hard brush, thoroughly ; afterwards 
rinse it in cold water, leave to drain, and iron 
whilst quite damp, with a piece of thin muslin 
between it and the iron, or it will be marked 
on the ironed side. The silk, when laid on the 
table, must be kept quite smooth, so that 
every part may come under the brush. 



White silk requires a little blue in the water. 
This receipt is an excellent one. 

461. To Baise the Nap on Cloth. 

Soak in cold water for -J- an horn-, then put on 
a board, and rub the threadbare parts with a 
half-worn hatter's card, filled with flocks, or 
with a prickly thistle, imtil a nap is raised.. 
Hang up to dry, and with a hard brush lay 
the nap the right way. 

462. To Benovate Black Crape. Skim" 
milk and water, with a little bit of glue in it, 
made scalding hot, will restore old rusty black 
Itahan crape. If clapped and pulled dry, 
like fine muslia, it will look as good as new. 

463. To Baise the Pile on Velvet or 
Plush. Hold the wrong side of the velvet 
over the steam arising from bofling water, 
until the pile rises — or dampen lightly the 
wrong side of the velvet and hold it over a 
pretty hot hon, not hot enough to scorch, how- 
ever : or, make a clean brick hot, place upon 
it a wet cloth, and hold the velvet over it, 
and the steam will raise the plush. 

464. To Bestore Creased Bibbons. 
Creased ribbons may be restored by laying 
them evenly on a board, and with a very 
clean sponge damping them evenly all over. 
Then roll them smoothly and tightly on a 
ribbon block, of greater breadth than the rib- 
bon, and let them remain until dry. After- 
wards transfer to a clean dry block. Then 
wrap in hrown paper, and keep until wanted. 

465. To Wash China Crape Scarfs. 
If the fabric be good, these articles of dress 
can be washed as frequently as may be re- 
quired, and no diminution of their beauty will 
be discoverable, even when the various shades 
of green have been employed among other 
colors in the patterns. In cleaning them, 
make a strong lather of boiling water, suff"er it 
to cool; when cold, or nearly so, wash the 
scarf quickly and thoroughly, dip it imme- 
diately in cold hard water in which a little 
salt has been thrown (to preserve the colors) ; 
rinse, squeeze, and hang it out to dry in the 
open air ; pin it at its extreme edge to the 
line, so that it may not in any part be folded 
together. The more rapidly it dries the 
clearer it will be. 

466. To Wash a Black Lace Veil. 
Mix buUock's gall with sufficient hot water to 
make it as warm as you can bear your hand 
in, and pass the veil through it. It must be 
squeezed, not rubbed ; and it will be well to 
perfume the gaU with a little musk. Einse 
the veil through two cold waters, tinging the 
last with a little blue. After drying, put it 
into some stiff"enuig made by pouring boiling 
water on a very small piece of glue ; squeeze 
it out, stretch it, and clap it. Afterwards, pin 
it out on a linen cloth to dry, laying it very 
straight and even, and taking care to open 
and pin the edge very nicely. When dry, iron 
it on the wrong side, having laid a linen cloth 
over the ironing blanket. 

Any article of black lace may be washed in 
this manner. 

467. To Wash White Silk Stockings. 
Heat some rain or soft water, and while on 
the fire cut into it slices of good yellow soap, 
to make a lather ; put the stockings in while 
the lather is warm, but not scalding, and 
wash them in two such waters (a wine-glass- 
ful of gin in the first water is an improvo- 



TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 



61 



ment); rinse them well in lukewarm water, 
having ready a second rinsing water, in 
which is mixed a little blue (not the common 
kind, but such as is used for muslins and 
laces), or rose pmk, which can be procured at 
the chemist's, and is used in the same way as 
the blue, by tying it up in a piece of flannel 
and squeezing it into the water. After rins- 
ing, put the stockings between towels and let 
them get almost dry ; place them on a small 
sheet, lay them out quite flat, as they are 
when first purchased, tack them to the sheet 
with a needle and thread, turn the sheet over 
them, and have them mangled. If it is not 
convenient to have them mangled (run be- 
tween weighted rollers), the next best plan is 
to put four or six stockings one upon the other 
between a piece of muslin, lay them on a 
stone doorstep, and beat them with the roll- 
ing pin. They must not be mangled or beaten 
in towels, as the pattern of the towels would 
be impressed on them. If the stockings have 
lace fronts they will more particularly require 
the tacking mentioned above to make them 
look nice. No soda or washing powder of 
any kind must be put to them, and they 
must be done quickly, and not left lying 
about. 

468. To Clean Soiled Bed Ticks. Ap- 
ply starch by rubbing it in thick with a wet 
cloth, then put the tick in the sun. When 
dry, rub it with the hands. If necessary, re- 
peat the process, and the soiled part will be as 
clean as new. 

469. To Restore the Gloss Finish on 
Woolen Goods, removed hy "Washing. 
Brush the cloth over, the tvay of the cloth, 
with a brush wetted with very weak gum- 
water ; lay over it a sheet of paper or a piece 
of cloth, and put it under a weight or in a 
screw-press until dry. This will restore the 
original gloss to the dull spot often left after 
washing out a stain. 

470. To Remove Stains from Black 
Crape and Mourning Dresses. Boil a 
handful of fig-leaves in 2 quarts of water, un- 
til reduced to a pint. Squeeze the leaves, 
strain the liquor, and put it into a bottle for 
use. Bombazines, crape, cloth, <fec., should 
be rubbed with a sponge dipped in this liquor, 
and most stains will be instantly removed. 

471. To Clean a White Lace Veil. 
Boil the veil gently for 15 minutes in a solu- 
tion of white soap ; put it into a basin holding 
warm water and soap, and keep gently squeez- 
ing it (do not rub it) till it is clean, and then 
rinse it from the soap. Then take a vessel of 
cold water, into which put a drop or two of 
chemic (see No. 162) or liquid blue ; rinse the 
veil in it. Have ready some very clear 
gum arable water, or some thin rice-water. 
Pass the veil through it. Then stretch it out 
even, and pin it to dry on a Hnen cloth, mak- 
ing the edge as straight as possible; opening 
out all the scallops, and fastening each with 
pins. "When dry, lay a piece of thin muslin 
smoothly over it, and iron it on the wrong 
side. 

472. To Wash White Silk Lace or 
Blond. Take a black bottle covered with 
clean linen or musUn, and wind the blond 
round it (securing the ends with a needle and 
thread), not leaving the edge outward, l)ut 
covering it as you proceed. Set the bottle 



upright in a strong cold lather of white soap 
and very clear soft water, and place it in the 
sun, having gently with your hand rubbed the 
suds up and down on the lace. Keep it in the 
sun every day for a week, changing the lather 
daily, and always rubbing it slightly when you 
renew the suds. At the end of the week, 
take the blond off the bottle, and (without 
rinsing) pin it backward and forward on a 
large pillow covered with a clean tight case. 
Every scallop must have a separate pin; or 
more, if the scallops are not very small. The 
plain edge must be pinned down also, so as to 
make it straight and even. The pins should 
be of the smallest size. TVhen quite dry, take 
it off, but do not starch, iron, or press it. 
Lay it in long loose folds, and put it away in 
a xDasteboard box. 

Thread lace may be washed in the same 
manner, 

473. To Clean Thread Lace. Thread 
lace may be cleaned in the same manner as 
in last receipt. Or, when the thread lace 
has been tacked to the bottle, take some of the 
best sweet oil and saturate the lace thorough- 
ly. Have ready in a wash-kettle, a strong 
cold lather of clear water and white Castile 
soap. Fill the bottle with cold water, to pre- 
vent its bursting, cork it well and stand it up- 
right in the suds, with a string round the 
neck secured to the ears or handle of the ket- 
tle, to prevent its shifting about and breaking 
while over the fire. Let it boil in the suds for 
an hour or more, till the lace is clean and 
white all through. Drain off the suds and 
dry it on the bottle in the sun. When dry, 
remove the lace from the bottle and roll it 
round a white ribbon-block ; or lay it in long 
folds, place it within a sheet of smooth white 
paper, and press it in a large book for a few 
days. 

In washing laces, put 12 drops aqua ammo- 
nia in warm suds. 

474. To Prepare Silks for Washing. 
Most colors are really improved, by the foUow- 
ing method, especially red, purple, orange, 
blue, olive, puce, &c. The more delicate 
greens are not improved, neither are they in. 
jured. This is likewise the case with laven- 
der. If the silk is to be washed in a dress, 
the seams of the skirt do not require to be 
ripped apart, though it must be removed from 
the band at the waist, and the lining taken 
from the bottom. Trimmings, or furniture 
where there are deep folds, the bottom of 
which is very difficult to reach, should be un- 
done so as to remain flat. 

475. To Wash Silks. The article 
should be laid upon a clean smooth table, A 
flannel should be well soaped, being made 
just wet with lukewarm water, and the surface 
of the silk rubbed one way, being careful that 
this rubbing is quite even, "When the dirt 
has disappeared, the soap must be washed off 
with a sponge, and plenty of cold water, of 
which the sponge must be made to imbibe as 
much as possible when the washing is done. 
As soon as one side is finished, the other must 
be washed precisely in the same manner. 
Let it be understood that not more of either 
surface must be done at a time than can be 
spread perfectly flat upon the table, and the 
hand can conveniently reach; likewise the 
soap must be quite sponged off one portion, 



62 



TO EEMOFE STAINS AND SPOTS. 



before the soaped flannel is applied to another 
portion. The treatment of silks, after they 
have been thus washed, will be described 
hereafter. {See next receipt.) 

Satin ribbons, both white and colored, and 
even satin dresses, may be cleansed with 
good effect by this process, which is likewise 
very effective in renovating all kinds of silk 
ribbons and trimmings. 

476. To Stiffen Silk for Trimmings. 
Sponge the surface of the silk with a weak 
solution of gum arable, or with equal parts 
of ale and water, and iron, while damp, on 
the wrong side. This is excellent when old 
silk is to be used for trimming, and it is ne- 
cessary to keej) it stiff. 

477. To Wash Silk Pocket Hand- 
kerchiefs. Silk pocket handkerchiefs re- 
quire to be washed by themselves, and those 
containing snuff should be put to soak in 
separate lukewarm water. Two or three hom-s 
after, they should be rinsed out and put to 
soak with the others in cold water for an 
hour or two. They should then be washed 
out in lukewarm water, being soaped as they 
are washed. If all the stains are not out of 
them, they must be washed through a second 
water of the same description. When fin- 
ished, they should be linsed in cold soft wa- 
ter, in which a handful of common salt has 
been dissolved. They may be rinsed all to- 
gether, being thrown, as fast as they are 
washed, into a dry tub, whence, when aU are 
done, they are transferred to the rinsing tub. 

478. To Wash Point Lace. By fol- 
lowing the directions laid down in this receipt, 
ladies may wash and finish their own point 
lace as thoroughly as any French laundress. 
Mix a tea-spoonful powdered borax in a basin 
of strong white CastUe soap-suds. Baste the 
lace to be washed, very carefully, with fine 
cotton, upon two thicknesses of flannel. 
Soak the lace, thus arranged, in the soap-suds 
mixture for 24 hours, or longer if very dirty, 
changing the suds two or three times. Then 
let it lie for 2 or 3 hours in clean water to 
rinse, changing the water once. Squeeze it 
out (do not wriug it), and, when partially dry, 
place the flannel with the lace on it, lace 
downwards, on two thicknesses of dry flannel 
laid on a table, and smooth it with a hot iron. 
Dm-ing the whole process, the lace must re- 
maki basted on the flannel ; and when it is 
pressed, must lie sandwiched between the 
dry and damp flannel, and pressed upon the 
latter. "When the lace is perfectly dry, rip it 
off. 

479. Twelvetree's Washing- Fluid for 
White Linen and Cotton Articles. Set 
aside the flannels and colored things, as they 
must not be washed in this way, then select 
from the clothes to be washed, all the coarse 
and dirtiest pieces from the fine; then put 
them in separate tubs of soft water to soak 
overnight (the night previous to washing.) 
Then prepare in a separate vessel, the liquid 
for a large washing, namely, i pound of good 
brown soap, cut in small pieces; |- pound soda, 
and 3 ounces fresh, unslacked lime, mixed in 
1 gallon of boihng soft water. Stir well up, so 
as to mix the ingredients, and let it stand un- 
til morning. Then strain off the liquid, being 
•areful to leave all sediment behind. Having 
ready about 10 gallons of boiling soft water in 



the boOer, pour in the prepared liquid (keep« 
ing out all settlings that may yet be remain- 
ing) then throw in your clothes and boil them 
twenty minutes or half an hour. Previous 
to which, put an earthen plate at the bottom 
of the boiler, to prevent the clothes from 
bm-ning. After boiling the appointed time, 
take them out; scald them, blue them, and 
rinse them in clean soft water, warm or cold, 
and the clothes will be as clean and white as 
snow. By this method, the finest linens, 
laces, cambrics, etc., can be readily and easi- 
ly cleansed with very little trouble. 

Should there be only a small washing, and 
less than 10 gallons of water required to boil 
them in, less of the liquid of lime, soap, and 
soda, can be used in proportion. "When there 
is any difficulty in procuiing fresh lime, a 
quantity of the liquor may be made at once 
from the lime, which will keep for years, 
corked in bottles, and ready for use. 

480. Bingham's Patent Wash Mix- 
ture. Take 5 pounds of bar soap, shave fine, 
add 1 quart of lye, i ounce pearlash, dis- 
solved over a slow fire. When dissolved, put 
into a vessel prepared for it to stand in ; then 
add ^ pint turpentine, 1 gill hartshorn ; stir 
well, and it is ready for use. 

481. To Make Washing Fluid. To 1 
gallon of common soft soap, (such as is made 
by the usual method of boiling the lye of 
wood ashes and fat together), take 4 ounces 
sal-soda, ^ gallon rain or soft water, and i gill 
spirits of turpentine ; place them all in a pot 
over the fire, and allow the mixture to boll a 
few minutes ; it is then ready for use, and can 
be kept in any earthen or stoneware vessel. 

482. Washing Made Easy. The wash- 
erwomen of Holland and Belgium, so prover- 
bially clean, and who get their hnen so beauti- 
fully white, used refined borax as washing 
powder instead of soda, in the proportion of 
\ a pound of borax powder to 10 gallons of 
water. They save soap nearly one half. All 
the large washing establishments adopt the 
same mode. For laces, cambrics, etc., an 
extra quantity of powder is used; and for 
crinolines (requhing to be made stiff) a 
stronger solution is necessary. Borax, being 
a neutral salt, does not in the slightest degree 
injure the texture of the linen. Its effect is 
to soften the hardest water, and therefore it 
should be kept on the toilet table. 

483. White Lye for Washing. This 
is made by pouring a pailful of boiling water 
over 4 or 5 quarts of ashes. Let it stand a 
while to infuse ; then pour in cold water to 
settle it, when you can pour it off clear. 
This is very good to boil dirty clothes in. 
When made nice, is equal to soda, and does 
not, unless made extremely strong, injure, the 
clothes. 

484. To Wash Linen in Salt Water. 
Drop into sea water a solution of soda or 
potash. It will become milky, in consequence 
of the decomposition of the earthy salts, and 
the precipitation of the earths. This addition 
renders it soft, and capable of washing. Its 
milkiness will have no injurious effect. 

485. To Wash an Alpaca, Mousse- 
Hne-de-Laine, or Lama Dress that has 
Bright or Dehcate Colors. Boil 1 pound 
best rice in 1 gallon water for three hours. 
When boiled, pour off what will be sufficient 



TO REMOVE STAINS AXD SPOTS. 



63 



to starch the dress ; wash the dress well in 
the remainder, rice and all, using the rice for 
soap; rinse it in clean cold water, wring it 
well, then starch it with the rice water that 
was kept for that purpose, and hang it before 
the fire to dry. W"hen dry enough, iron with 
a cool iron, as it is liable to scorch. If some 
parts of the dress get too dry, they must be 
damped with a wet cloth whilst ironing. ISTo 
soap must be used. The best way is to boil 
the rice on the previous day, and merely warm 
it up the next morning, for then you have the 
day before you to complete the whole, as the 
dress must on no account lie damp, even for an 
hour, or the colors will be sure to run. This 
receipt will be found equally well suited to 
delicate painted muslins and piques as to 
lama and alpaca dresses. 

486. To Wash Colored Muslins. In 
washing colored muslins and linens, there are 
s 'J vera! very essential points to be observed, 
whereby the colors are preserved from injury. 
In the first place, they should not be soaped 
or soaked over night, as the more delicate 
of the hues would be deteriorated by such 
process. TVhen ready for washing, they 
should, if not too dirty, be put into cold wa- 
ter and washed up very speedily ; if very 
dirty, the water may be lukewarm and no 
more. But above aU, be careful not to use 
the smallest particle of soda. The best soap 
for washing articles made of this material is 
the common yellow. It is much better than 
the mottled, because it is less harsh, and re- 
moves the dirt in a shorter period. A small 
piece of alum should be boiled in the water in 
' which the lather is made. The soap should 
not be allowed to remain any time on the 
liuen ; the latter should be soaped and washed 
as rax)idly as possible, and not lie in the water 
any length of time. One article should there- 
fore be washed at a time, and immediately 
rinsed through two cold waters, the others 
remaining in a dry state by the side of the 
tub until they are taken to be washed each in 
its turn. The liquid in which the articles are 
to be rinsed in succession immediately as 
they are washed, should consist of 3 or 4 gal- 
lons of cold soft water, with a handful of table 
salt dissolved in it. Should alum not be added 
to the lather, then a tea-spoonful of vinegar 
should be stirred into the water for each rins- 
ing; this will help to fix and brighten the 
colors. The moment an article is taken from 
the rinsing tub, it should be wrung very gent- 
ly, being twisted as little as can be helped. 
After rinsing, they should be hung out imme- 
diately to dry. 

-" 487. To'Preserve the Colors of Meri- 
no, Mousselines -de - Laine, Gingham, 
Chintz, and Printed Lawns. Before 
washing almost any colored fabrics, it is 
recommended to soak them for some time in 
water to every gallon of which is added a 
spoonful of ox-gall. A tea-cup of lye in a 
pail of water is said to improve the color of 
black goods, when it is necessary to wash 
them. A strong clean tea of common hay 
wiU preserve the color of French linens. 
Yinegar in the rinsing water, for pink or 
green, will brighten those colors, and soda 
answers the same end for both purple and 
blue. 

The colors of the above fabrics may be pre- 



served by using a strong milk-wann lather oi 
white soap, and j)utting the dress into it, in- 
stead of ruWng it on the material, and stirring 
into a first and second tub of water a large 
table-spoonful of ox-gall. {See No. AQd.) 

488. Hints for Washing Colored 
Clothes. iSTo colored articles should ever be 
boiled or scalded. Neither should they be al- 
lowed to freeze, or tbe colors will be irrepara- 
bly injm-ed. They should be ironed immedi- 
atel}^ they are dry enough, and not be allowed 
to lie damp over night, nor be sprinkled. 
They should not be smoothed with a /ioHron. 
Pink and green colors, though they may 
withstand the washing, will frequently chauge 
as soon as o^liot iron is jDut over them. 

489. To Prepare Ox-gall for Wash- 
ing Colored Articles. Empty the gall in 
a bottle, put in it a handful of salt, and keep 
it closely corked. A tea-cupful to 5 gallons 

of water will prevent colored articles from / 
fading. . y 

490. The French Method of Wash- 
ing Colored Muslins, Piques, &c. Pre- 
pare some rather warm (not hot) lather, made 
with soft water and the best white soap ; 
wash the dresses one at a time, but do not 
soak them. As soon as the first lather looks 
soiled, squeeze the dress from it, and at once 
wash it again in a fresh lather. TVTien thor- 
oughly clean, rinse in pm'e cold water, lastly 
in water slightly blued ; squeeze (not wring) 
the water completely from the dress, and hang 
it in a shaded place to dry ; if wet weather, 
dry it by the fire. The best prints wiU fade 
if hung in the sunshine. 

491. To Render the Colors of Cotton 
Fabrics Permanent. Dissolve 3 gills of 
salt in 4 quarts of water; put the calico in 
while hot, and leave it till cold, and in this 
way the colors are rendered permanent, and 
will not fiide by subsequent washing. 

492. To Wash Chintz, so as to Pre- 
serve its Gloss and Color. Take 2 pounds 
of rice aud boil it in 2 gallons of water, till 
soft ; when done, pour the whole into a tub ; 
let it stand and cool till about the usual 
warmth for colored linens ; put the chintz in, 
and use the rice instead of soap ; wash it in 
this till the dirt appears to be out ; then boil 
the same quantity as above, but strain the 
rice from the water, and mix it in warm water. 
Wash it in this till quite clean; afterwards 
rinse it in the water the rice was boiled in ; 
this will answer the end of starch, and no 
dew will afi'ect it, as it will be stiff while it is 
worn. If a dress, it must be taken to pieces, 
and when dried, hang it as smooth as possible ; 
when dry, rub it with a smooth stone, but use 
no iron. 

493. To Wash Flannels or other 
Woolen Articles. Have the suds ready 
prepared by boiling up some good white soap 
in soft water, but do not use the suds when 
boiling ; let them be as hot as the hand will 
bear when the articles are put in. The flan- 
nels should not be rubbed with soap, nor 
should the material itself be rubbed, as in 
washing linen, <fcc., rubbing knots the fibres 
of the wool together ; hence the thickening of 
the fabric and consequent shrinking in its 
dimensions. Sluice the articles up and down 
in plenty of suds, which afterwards squeeae 
(not wring) out. The patent clothes-wringers 



64: 



TO REMOVE STAIXS AND SPOTS. 



are a great improvement upoii hand labor, as, 
withont injury to the fabric, they squeeze out 
the water so thoroughly that the article dries 
in considerably less time than it would do 
even after the most thorough hand wringing. 
After rinsing, squeeze out the water, and dry 
in the open air, if the weather is such as to 
admit of the articles drying quickly ; if not, 
dry m a warm room, but avoid too close 
proximity to a fire. Let any dust or mud be 
beaten out or brushed off prior to washing. 

All flannels should be soaked before they 
are made up, first in cold and then in hot wa- 
ter, in order to shrink them. 

494. To Shrink Flannel. Flannel 
should be soaked in cold hard water before 
making, and hung up to drain and dry without 
any squeezing or handling in the water. 
After this it will not shrink in washing. Fill a 
tub with spring water, place the flannel in it, 
and take out as soon as it sinks to the bottom. 
It does not lose the appearance of new flannel 
when dry. 

495. To Wash Red Flannel. To wash 
red or scarlet flannel when soiled, mix a hand- 
ful of flour in a quart of cold water, and boil 
ten miuutes. Add this to some warm suds, 
and wash the flannel gentl}^; linsino- rather 
than rubbing it {see No. 493), rinse it in three 
or four warm waters, and the brightest scarlet 
wOl never lose its color. Soft soap or olive 
soap should be used for woolen goods in prefer- 
ence to bar soap. 

496. Scotch Method of Washing 
Woolen Shawls. Scrape 1 pound soap, 
boil it down in suificient water. TThen cool- 
ing, beat it with the hand ; it will be a sort of 
jelly. Add 3 table-spoonfuls spirit of turpen- 
tine, and 1 of spirit of hartshorn, ^ash the 
articles well in it, then rinse in cold water until 
all the soap is taken off, then in salt and wa- 
ter. Fold between two sheets, taking care 
not to allow two folds of the article washed 
to lie together. Iron with a very cool iron. 
Shawls done in this way look like new. Only 
use the salt where there are delicate colors 
that may run. 

497. To Make Starch for Linen, Cot- 
ton, &c. To 1 ounce of the best starch add 
just enough soft cold water to make it (by 
rubbing and stirring) into a thick paste, care- 
fully breaking all the lumps and particles. 
THieu rubbed perfectly smooth, add nearly or 
quite a pint of boiling water (with bluing to 
suit the taste), and boil for at least half an 
liour, taking care to stir it well all the time, 
to prevent its burning. When not stirring, 
keep it covered, so as to protect it from dust, 
etc. Also keep it covered when removed 
from the fire, to prevent a scum from rising 
upon it. To give the linen a fine, smooth, 
glossy appearance, and prevent the iron from 
sticking, add a little spermaceti (a piece as 
large as a nutmeg) to the starch, when boil- 
ing, and ^ a tea-spoonful of the finest table- 
salt. If you have no spermaceti, take a piece 
of the purest, whitest hog's lard, or tallow 
(mutton is the best), about as large as a nut- 
meg, or twice this quantity of the best refined 
loaf sugar, and boil with the starch. In iron- 
ing linen collars, shirt bosoms, etc., their ap- 
pearance will be much improved by rubbing 
them, before ironing, with a clean white towel, 
dampened in soft water. The bosom of a 



shirt should be the last part ironed, as thia 
will prevent its being soiled. All staxcL 
should be strained before using. 

498. Gum Arabic Starch for Making 
Shirt-Bosoms Glossy. Procure 2 ounces 
of fine white gum arable, and pound it to 
powder. jSText put it into a pitcher, and pour 
on it a pint or more of boiling water, accord- 
ing to the degree of strength you desire, and 
then, having covered it, let it set all night. 
In the morning, pour it carefully from the 
dregs into a clean bottle, cork it, and keep it 
for use. A table-spoonful of gum water stir- 
red into a pint of starch that has been made 
in the usual manner, will give a beautiful gloss 
to shirt-bosoms, and to lawns (either white or 
printed) a look of newness to which nothing 
else can restore them after washing. It is 
also good (much diluted) for thin white mus- 
lin and bobbinet. 

499. To Make Starch for Colored Ar- 
ticles. For starching muslins, ginghams, 
and calicoes, dissolve and add to every pint 
of starch, a piece of alum the size of a sheU- 
bark. By so doing, the colors wiU keep 
bright for a long time, which is very desirable 
when dresses must be often washed, and the 
cost is but a trifle. 

500. To Starch Muslins and Piqu6s. 
In getting up muslins and piques, the failure 
is not generally in the washing, but in the 
starching. A good-sized panful of starch 
should be used, in which 3 or 4 inches of 
spermaceti candle has been melted whilst hot. 
The articles should be thoroughly squeezed 
from the starch, and folded whilst wet, be- 
tween folds of old sheeting or table linen. 
They should then be passed through a wring- 
ing machine. All lumps of starch are thus 
removed. 

Piques should be ironed as lightly as possi- 
ble, and the iron ought never to come into 
contact with the outside smface of the pique. 
An old cambric handkerchief is the best 
thing to use under the iron where absolutely 
necessary to iron on the right side. 

501. To Clear-starch Lace, Cambric 
and Book Muslin. Starch for laces should 
be thicker and used hotter than for linens. 
After the laces have been well washed and 
dried, dip them into the thick hot starch in 
such a way as to have every part properly 
starched. Then wring all the starch out of 
them, spread them out smooth on a piece of 
linen, roll them up together, and let them re- 
main for about half an hour, when they wiU 
be dry enough to iron. Laces should never 
be clapped between the hands, as it injures 
them. Cambrics do not require so thick 
starch as net or lace. Some people prefer cold 
or raw starch for book-muslin, as some of this 
kmi of muslin has a thick, clammy appear- 
ance if starched in boiled starch. Fine laces 
are sometimes wound round a glass bottle ' o 
dry, which prevents them from shrinking. 

502. To Fold Clothes after Drying 
on the Line. Fold the fine articles and roll 
them in a towel, and then fold the rest, turning 
them all the right side outward. Lay the col- 
ored articles separate from the rest. They 
should not remain damp long, as the colors 
might be injured, and starched fabrics are apt 
to mildew. Sheets and table linen should be 
shaken and folded. 



TO REMOVE STAINS AND SPOTS. 



65 



503. To Iron Clothes. In ironiug a 
shirt, first do the back, then the sleeves, then 
the collar and bosom, and then the front. 
Iron calicoes generally on the right side, as they 
thus keep clean for a longer time. In ironing 
a frock, first do the waist, then the sleeves, 
then the skirt. Keep the skirt rolled while 
ironing the other parts, and set a chair to hold 
the sleeves while ii'oning the skirt, unless a 
skirt-board be used. Silk should be ironed on 
the wrong side, when quite damp, with an iron 
which is not very hot, as light colors are apt to 
change and fade. In ironing velvet, turn up the 
face of the iron, and after dampening the wrong 
side of the velvet, draw it over the face of 
the iron, holding it straight; always iron lace 
and needlework on the wrong side, and put 
them away as soon as they are dry. 

504. To Restore Scorched Linen. 
It is almost needless to premise that if the 
tissue of linen is so much burnt that no 
strength is left, it is useless to apply the fol- 
lowing composition; for nothing could pre- 
vent a hole fi"om being formed, although the 
composition by no means tends to injure the 
fabric. But if the scorching is not quite 
through, and the threads not actually con- 
sumed, then the application of this composi- 
tion, followed by two or three good washings, 
will restore the linen to its original color ; the 
marks of the scorching wiU be so totally ef- 
faced as to be imperceptible, and the place 
will seem as white and perfect as any other 
part of the linen. Mix well together 2 ounces 
fuller's earth reduced to a powder ; 1 ounce 
hen's dung ; ^ ounce of cake, soap, scraped ; 
and the juice of 2 large onions, obtained by 
the onions being cut up, beaten in a mortar, 
and pressed. Boil this mass in ^ pint strong 
vinegar, stii-ring it from time to time, until it 
forms a thick liquid compound. Spread this 
composition thickly over the entire surface of 
the scorched part, and let it remain on 24 hours. 
If the scorching was light, this will prove 
suflBcient, with the assistance of two subse- 
quent washings, to take out the stain. If, 
however, the scorching was strong, a second 
coating of the composition should be put on 
after removing the first ; and this should also 
remain on for 24 hours. If, after the linen 
hah been washed twice or thrice, the stain has 
not wholly dissappeared, the composition may 
be used again, in proportion to the intensity 
of the discoloration remaining, when a com- 
plete cure will seldom fail to be efi"ected. It 
has scarcely ever happened that a third appli- 
cation was found necessary. The remainder 
of the composition should be kept for use in 
a gallipot tied over with bladder. 

505. To Remove the Stain of Per- 
spiration. For removing the stain of per- 
spiration a strong solution of soda is first to 
be appfied, with a subsequent rinsing with 
water. 

506. To Bleach Yellow Linen. Linen 
that has acquired a yellow or bad color by 
careless washing, may be restored to its 
former whiteness by working it well in water 
containing a clear solution of chloride of lime, 
rinsing it well in clean water, both before and 
after using the bleaching liquor. Xever at- 
tempt to bleach unwashed linen, and avoid 
using the liquor too strong, as in that case 
the linen will be rendered rotten. 



! 507. To Bleach Yellow FlanneL 

Flannel which has become yellow with uso 
may be whitened by putting it for some time 
in a solution of hard soap, to which strong 
ammonia has been added. The proportions 
are 1^ pounds hard curd soap, 50 pounds of 
salt water and f pound strong ammonia. The 
same object may be attained in a shorter 
time by placing the garments for a quarter of 
an hour in a weak solution of bisulphite of 
soda to which a little hydrochloric acid has 
been added. 

508. How to Whiten Flannel and 
"Woolen Hose. Wet the flannel yarn or 
hose (whatever you wish to whiten) in 
weak suds ; wring out. Then hang on sticks 
or cords across a barrel with 2 table-spoonfuls 
of pulverized brimstone or sulphur burning 
under it ; cover the barrel tightly. If they 
are not white enough, repeat the process ; 
hang in the open air a day, then wash and 
rinse in bluing water. Be careful not to 
have the sulphur blaze and scorch the gar- 
ments. 

509. To Bleach Brown Sheeting. 
Having soaked the cloth 12 hours in strong 
soap-suds, take i pound chloride of Hme for 
every 12 yards of sheeting, and dissolve it in 
enough boiling water to cover the cloth when 
dipped into it. As soon as the lime is dis- 
solved, strain the solution through a flannel 
or other coarse cloth, then put the brown 
sheeting in the strained lime-water, stirring 
constantly, and after it has remained thus in 
this liquor for about half an hour, take out 
the cloth and rinse it well in pure water, so as 
to be sure to remove all the lime-water ; and 
then boil it up in strong soap-suds, and hang 
out to dry, and the work of weeks will have 
been accomplished in a day or two. 

510. Bleaching by Oil of Turpentine. 
A German authority recommends the use of 
oil of turpentine in bleaching white goods. 
Dissolve 1 part oil of tui-pentine in 3 parts 
strong alcohol, place a table-spoonful of the 
mixture in the water used for the last rinsing. 
The clothes are to be immersed in this, well 
wrung out, and placed in the open air to dry. 
The bleaching action of the oil consists in its 
changing oxygen into ozone when exposed to 
the light, and in this process the turpentine 
disappears, leaving no trace behind. 

511. To Clean Straw Bonnets. First 
brush them with soap and water ; then with 
a solution of oxalic acid. 

512. To Clean Door-Plates. To clean 
silver door-plates, use a weak solution of am- 
monia in water, applied with a wet rag. This 
wash is equally useful for silver plate and 
jewelry. 

513. To Clean Plated-Ware. Make a 
paste with whiting and alcohol, apply it to 
the plated articles, and after it is dry, rub it 
ofi" with a brush (if rough), or a soft rag, if 
smooth. 

514. To Remove Rust Spots from 
Marble. Kust spots can be made to disap- 
pear by treatment with a weak solution com- 
posed of 1 part nitric acid and 25 of water, 
and afterward rinsing with water and ammonia. 

515. To Remove Ink Spots from 
Marble. Ink spots may be removed by first 
washing with pure water, and then with a 
weak solution of oxalic acid. Subsequent 



66 



THE ART OF SOAP-MAKING. 



polishing, however, will be necessary, as the 
lustre of the stone may become dimmed. 
This can be best secm-ed by very finely 
powdered soft white marble, applied with a 
Hnen cloth first dipped in water and then 
into the powder. If the place be subsequent- 
ly rubbed with a dry cloth the lustre will be 
restored. 

516. To Remove Copper Spots from 
Marble. Copper spots may be removed by 
diluted sulphuric acid and ammonia, and sub- 
sequently with water and ammonia. 

517. To Remove Match Stains from 
Marble. Spots from sulphur and phosphorus, 
caused by lucifer-matches, can be extracted 
fi*om marble by sulphide of carbon. 



The Art of Soap-Making. 
Soap is a chemical combination of a 
fatty substance with caustic lye, the base of 
which is either potash or soda; the former 
producing soft, and the latter, hard soaps. 

519. To Make Soap-makers' Lye. 
To 1 part of quicklime, slacked by sprinkling 
on it sufficient water to crumble it, add a 
solution of 3 parts soda in 5 parts water. For 
soft-soap lye, an equal quantity of potash is 
substituted for the soda. Stir the mixture 
and allow it to settle ; the clear liquid is then 
poured ofi", and constitutes the first hje, and is 
of a strength of 25° to 30° Baume ; the second, 
third and fourth lye is each obtained by add- 
ing successively 5 parts water, stirring tho- 
roughly, allowing it to settle, and pouring ofi" 
•the clear liquid ; producing respectively a lye 
of from 12° to 18°, 8° to 10°, and 2° to 5° 
Baume. 

520. To Make Soap. Having thus 
prepared the lye, the first, second and third 
lyes being sufficient for general pm-poses, 
take 20 pounds of pure grease, and melt it 
slowly in an iron vessel ; keep it at a moderate 
heat, and stir in, a little at a time, 10 pounds 
third lye ; after stirring for about an hour, let 
the mixture get up to a boiling heat, and then 
stir in, by degrees, 10 pounds second lye ; this 
will complete the first stage of the process, 
which is termed saponification. The next 
step, called cutting up the pan, is to add, by 
degrees, a mixture of soda and lye with from 
2 to 3 pounds comxnon salt; this separates 
the excess of water from the curd, leaving a 
soapy paste; boil and stir for some time, 
then let it settle, and draw ofi" the water. 
The third operation, clear boiling, has now to 
be performed ; stn into the paste, by degrees, 
5 pounds first hje ; and, when perfectly mixed 
and smooth, boil the whole for two hours; 
should the soap, during the intervals, become 
too liquid, which may happen when too weak 
a lye has been used, some salt, or a weak lye 
containing salt, must be added. The boiling 
is terminated when large, regular, dry scales 
appear on the surface ; when this is the case 
let it settle, and draw off the fluid which re- 
mains. Put the soap into frames lined with 
cotton cloth which has been well powdered 
with a mixture of lime and starch, and as soon 
as the soap has become firm, lay it out to 
dry. 

521. Hard and Soft Soap. Soaps are 



thus of two kinds, hard and soft, this condi- 
tion being infiuenced both by the fat and 
alkali employed. The firmer and harder the 
fat, the solider will be the resulting soap. 
With the same alkali, therefore, tallow will 
make a harder soap than palm or olive oil, 
and stearic acid than oleic acid. But the 
consistence of soaps depends far more upon 
the alkali employed. Potash is very deliques- 
cent, that is, has a strong attraction for water, 
so that when exposed it will absorb it from 
the ah- and run down into a fluid or semi-fluid 
state. The potash retains this water in the 
condition of soap, so that potash soaps are 
always liquid and soft. The hard soaps, 
therefore, all contain soda, those with tallow 
or stearic acid being the hardest. Potash 
soaps will not dry, but retain their soft, jelly- 
like condition, while some kinds of soda soap 
become so hard by drying that at last they 
can be pulverized. The admixture of a very 
small quantity of sulphate of soda hardens 
soap and also checks waste from too rapid 
solubility in hot water. When soda and 
potash alkalies are used in combination, a pro- 
portion of from 10 to 20 per cent, of the lattiju. 
is employed, according to the degree of hard- 
ness the soap is desired to possess. 

522. Common Yellow Soap. Com- 
mon yellow hard soap consists of soda, with 
oil or fat and resin. Eesin is a feeble acid, 
capable of combining with alkali, but neu- 
tralizing it less completely than oil, so that 
the compound or soap formed is too power- 
fully alkaline. But when resin is worked 
with an equal or larger proportion of oil, it 
makes an excellent soap for many purposes. 

523. Beef Tallow. This fat, on account 
of its abundant supply, is the most used by 
soap and candle makers. It is not as white 
as many other animal fats, and the best quali- 
ty, the Ii^orth American, contains about 70 per 
cent, of stearine. It does not melt below 111° 
Fahr., but may afterwards be cooled down to 
102° without solidifying, and when cold, is 
firm, and even brittle. 

524. Mutton Suet. This is generally 
firm, white, and very rich in stearine ; this 
latter quality gives it a tendency to produce a 
soap of too hard and brittle a nature for 
general use, which is obviated by mixing about 
one-fifth or one-sixth part of lard, or some 
other more oleaginous fat ; thus modified it 
is specially adapted for stock for toilet soaps. 

525. Lard. The best quality of lard 
melts at 81° Fahr., and contains about 60 
per cent, of oily fat, known as lard oil, and 
about 30 per cent, solid stearine. It makes a 
pure, white soap, and is frequently combined 
with tallow or other saponaceous fat. 

526. Bone Fat, obtained by boiling 
fresh bones, split open lengthways, is very 
well adapted for making soaps, but generally 
undergoes a process of purification before be- 
ing thus employed. {See No. 534.) 

527. Cocoanut Oil possesses two promi- 
nent qualities which specially recommend it 
as an Ingredient in soap-making. It imparts 
a great degree of firmness to the soap, prob- 
ably owing to the solid form of the fatty acids 
found in it. It will also unite permanently 
with soda lyes in any proportion; and, in 
combination with other fat substances, im- 
parts whiteness and emolUent properties to 



THE ART OF SOAP-MAKING. 



67 



them ; it also froths as veil in cold as in hot 
water, which is not the case with tallow 
soaps worked with soda. 

528. Palm. Oil. This substance is used 
in the manufacture of soap. Its genuine 
quality is easily tested by its solubility in 
acetic ether, the imitations sometimes sold 
under the same name being insoluble in 
it. It is used in its natm-al state, but it^. dis- 
tinctive qualities and white color are greatly 
increased by bleaching. {See No. 537.) 

529. To Clarify'Fat Used in Making 
Fine or Toilet Soaps. Heat the fat in a 
clean hon or copper kettle, applying just heat 
enough to melt it thoroughly ; then filter it 
through fine linen or muslin. 

53d. To Deodorize Fat for Making 
Perfumed Soap. Boil for 10 rainutes 100 
pounds of the fat with about 35 pounds water 
containing 6 ounces common salt and 3 ounces 
powdered alum ; strain the water ofi", and let 
the fat rest for some hours before using. 

531. To Prevent Fatty Substances 
from Turning Rancid. Boil for about 10 
minutes with the salt and alum solution, as 
in last receipt ; strain the water off, and then 
gently simmer the clarified fat with 4 ounces 
benzoin and 1 gallon rose water; skim ofi" 
and let it cool. Fat thus treated will keep 
for years. 

532. To Grain or Granulate Tallow. 
Melt the tallow and stu* it with twice its 
quantity of water at a blood heat until it is 
cold ; strain the fat from the water, and dry 
by exposing it to a current of dry air. Tallow 
in this gi'anulated form combines more readily 
with Ive for soap-making purposes. {See No. 
535.) " 

533. To Purify Tallow and Other 
Fats. Tallow and other fats are commonly 
purified by melting them along with water, 
passing the mixed fluids through a sieve, and 
letting the whole cool slowly, when a cake of 
cleansed fat is obtained. Another plan is to 
keep the tallow melted for some time, along 
with about 2 per cent, of oil of vitriol largely 
diluted with water, employing constant agita- 
tion, and allowing the whole to cool slowly ; 
then to re-melt the cake with a large quantity 
of hot water, and to wash it well. Another 
method is to blow steam for sometime through 
the melted fat. By either this or the prece- 
ding process a white hard tallow may be ob- 
tained. Some persons add a httle nitre to 
the melted fat, and afterwards a little dilute 
nitric or sulphuric acid, or a solution of bisul- 
phate of potash. Others boil the fat along 
with water and a little dilute nitric or chro- 
mic acid, and afterwards wash it well with 
water. 

534. To Purify Bone Fat. Melt the 
fat with a small quantity of saltpetre (nitrate 
of potassa); then add sufiicient sulphuric 
acid to decompose the saltpetre. The mass, 
after the scum is removed, becomes a fight yel- 
low color, and is completely deprived of all 
ofiensive smell and animal impurities. 

535. To Keep Tallow from Turning 
Hancid. Cut 50 pounds tallow into slices, 
and boil it in about 2^ gallons water containing i 
2 ounces alum and 4 ounces salt ; strain the i 
fat from the liquid, and wash it in clean wa- 
ter ; put into a clean barrel twice as much ; 
water at a blood heat as there is grease, and | 



dissolve in the water about 1 part of clean 
soap to 10 parts of the grease ; nest warm the 
grease to a blood heat and pour it into the bar- 
rel of water, stirring it together until cold; 
let it rest until the fat has risen to the sur- 
face, when the water must be drawn away 
through a hole in the bottom of the ban-el, 
hitherto tightly corked. The fat in a granu- 
lated state must be thoroughly dried by ex- 
posure to a cun-ent of dry air ; and, when per- 
fectly dry, packed in barrels or other vessels. 
The graining of the fat at the same time 
greatly facilitates its combination with lye for 
the purposes of soap-making. 

536. To Preserve Grease. Boil all the 
scraps, rinds, and bones, in a weak lye, and 
the purer grease in clear water. Let the mix- 
ture cool, take ofi" the cake of grease, and 
strain it. It is well to do this occasionally, 
as you save it ; for when kept a long time im- 
pure grease becomes offensive. You must be 
careful to dry off' all the water before laying 
it away in the grease tub, if you wish it to 
keep sweet. The best plan to collect dripping 
is to put it while warm into water nearly 
cold. Any impmities it may contain will 
sink to the bottom. 

537. To Bleach Palm Oil. Dissolve ^ 
pound powdered red chromate of potassa in 
about a quart hot water. 100 pounds pahn 
ofi are heated in a wooden tank, by steam, to 
a temperatm-e of 120° Fahr. The steam is 
then turned off and a portion of the chrome 
solution is stirred in, foHowed by a propor- 
tional quantity of 1 poundstrong nauriatic acid. 
After the whole of the solution and of the 
acid has been thoroughly mixed with the 
palm oil, stir in ^ pound sulphuric acid. The 
oil becomes black, then dark gi-een, and finaUy 
fight gi'een, with a thick froth on the surface. 
If, when the mixture has settled, the oil is not 
sufficiently bleached, the operation has to be 
repeated, using less proportion of chrome 
and acids. TThen the bleaching is complete, 
the oil is allowed to stand for an hour to clear; 
it is then run into a wooden tank with some 
water, and heated again, to wash out any salts 
that may remain in it, and after a time drawn 
off ready for use. Palm oil is usually com- 
bined with from 3 to 5 times its weight of tal- 
low to make soap, and is serviceable in resin 
soap to brighten its color and disguise the 
resin. 

538. Filled Soap. Hard soaps are usu- 
aUy made according to the process before de- 
scribed {see No. 520), the excess of water being 
separated from the paste by the use of salt: this 
class of soap is termed grained soap. But there 
are some kinds — cocoanut ofi and soda soap, 
for instance — that are so hard in their nature 
that the operation of salting, or graining, is 
needless, the water remaining incoi-porated in 
the paste; soaps of this class are caUed /??«(? 
soaps. 

539. To Make Tallow Soap. The 
French Method. Melt in a boiler, by a 
moderate heat, 500 pounds taUow ; stir in, by 
degrees, 35 to 40 gaUons caustic soda lye of 
10° to 12° Baume, and let it boil gently for 
several hours ; then add, graduaUy, 18 to 20 
gallons caustic soda lye of 15° to 18° Baume, 
and mix until the whole becomes a homogene- 
ous mass of a grayish color ; keep the mix- 
ture boiling gently for some hours, adding to 



68 



THE ABT OF SOAP-MAKING. 



it every hour 3 to 4 gallons caustic soda lye of 
20° Baume. This will occupy 10 or 12 hours. 
The salting process then follows, and is con- 
ducted as described in JSTo. 520. After the 
separation or grainiag is finished the paste is 
allowed to stand for a few houi'S, and the lye 
is drawn off through a faucet inserted for the 
purpose in the side of the boiler, near the bot- 
tom. The mass is again boiled for some 
►hours, adding every hour 2^ gallons soda lye 
of 25° Baume, until the hard scales rise to 
the surface. {See No. 520.) The fire should 
then be extinguished, and after an hour the 
under-lye is to be drawn off. Then boil again 
for 1| to 2 hours with about 25 gallons soda 
lye of 4° Baume, Stirling from time to time. 
The fire should then be removed, and the pan 
covered up ; the soap will rise to the top of 
the lye, and may be poured into the frames, 
care being taken that no lye gets mixed with 
the soap. This should yield about 850 pounds 
of soap. 

540. Tallow Resin Soap. About 15 
per cent, of resin can be mixed with tallow 
without injm-ing the color and firmness of the 
soap. A larger proportion deteriorates the 
quahty and produces an inferior soap. Some 
soap-makers melt the resin and tallow togeth- 
er before saponifying; but it is better to 
make a soap of each in separate boilers, and 
then mix and boil them together thoroughly 
for half an hour, and strain through a sieve 
before filUng the frames. 

541. To Make Resin Soap. Boil 12 
gallons caustic soda lye of 30° Baume in a 
kettle, and add 100 pounds well pulverized 
resin, 10 or 15 pounds at a time, stming con- 
stantly and thoroughly, the heat being kept 
up to or nearly at boiling pohit. Saponifica- 
tion will be effected in about 2 hours. The 
lightest resin is the best for soap. 

542. Cocoanut Oil Soap. Put 100 
pounds cocoanut oil and 100 pounds caustic 
soda lye of 27° Baume into a soap kettle ; 
boil and mix thoroughly fori or 2 hours, until 
the paste gradually "^thickens ; then diminish 
the heat, but continue stirring till the cooling 
paste assumes a white, half-solid mass ; then 
transfer quickly to the frames. A mixture of 
equal parts of cocoanut oil and tallow will 
make a very fine JUled soap. {See No. 538.) 
Cocoanut oil mixed with almost any fats, 
if they are not in too large proportions, 
will produce filled soaps. 

543. Palm Oil Soap. Palm oil is sel- 
dom used alone as a saponaceous fat, but is 
employed in conjunction with other fats, and 
with resin ; this latter being usually saponi- 
fied separately and mixed afterwards. {See 
No. b40.) The dhections for making tallow 
soap apply equally well to palm oil. The fol- 
lowing are among the best mixtures and pro- 
portions of palm oil for soaps : 

30 pounds palm oil, 20 poimds tallow, and 
2 pounds resin. 

30 pounds palm oil, 50 pounds taUow, and 
20 pounds resin. 

90 pounds palm oil and 10 pounds cocoanut 
oil. 

15 pounds palm oil, 55 poimds lard, 5 
pounds cocoanut oil, and 5 pounds clarified 
resin. 

544. To Make Soap from Grained 
Tallow. Mix 6 pounds caustic soda and 2 



pounds caustic potash with 17 to 20 gallona 
hot water ; put a portion of this lye into a 
clean barrel; stir in by degrees 25 pounds 
grained taUow ; add the rest of the lye and 
stir it briskly for at least an hour ; then let it 
rest, and before it is cold pour it into a firame 
or box, and fijdsh according to IS'o. 520. 

545. Dawson's Patent Composite 
Soap. Strong potash lye, 75 pounds; tal- 
tow, 75 pounds; cocoanut oil, 25 pounds. 
Boil until the compound is saponified in the 
usual manner. 

To make 30 pounds of the new composi- 
tion, take 2 gallons boiling soft water in a ket- 
tle, add i pound sal soda, 2 ounces borax, 2 
table-spoonfuls spmts of turpentine, and 1 
tea-spoonful linseed oil. Stir this mixture un- 
til the borax and soda are dissolved ; then add 
15 pounds of the above soap made from lye, 
tallow, and cocoanut oil; and continue the 
boiling with stining for 15 minutes, until the 
whole is incorporated and dissolved. IsTow 
add 2 ounces spirits of hartshorn, and stir. 
It may be scented with any essential oil, or 
odor, and colored, if desired; then run off 
and molded into cakes fit for toilet use. It is 
a good soap for chapped hands, and is free 
from any disagreeable odor. 

546. Chemical Soap. Powdered ful- 
ler's earth, 1 ounce ; just moisten with spirits 
of turpentine ; add salt of tartar, 1 ounce ; 
best potash, 1 ounce ; work the whole into a 
paste with a little scap. It is excellent for 
removing grease spots. 

547. To Make Hard White Tallow 
Soap. Dissolve 2 pounds sal soda in 1 gal- 
lon boiling soft water ; mix into it 2 pounds 
fresh slacked lime, stining occasionally for a 
few hours ; then let it settle, pour off the 
clear liquid, and boil 2 pounds tallow in it un- 
til all the tallow is dissolved. Cool it in a flat 
box, and cut it into bars or cakes. It can be 
scented by stming in the desired perfume 
when cool. 

548. To Make Home-made Caustic 
Soda. Dissolve 6 pounds common washing 
soda in 4 gallons warm water ; slack 6 pounds 
clean fresh quicklime in a tub, using only as 
much water as is needed to crumble it perfect- 
ly ; add the slacked lime to the solution of 
soda ; stir the two together, adding 4 gallons 
boiling water; stir thoroughly and let it settle; 
then pour off the clear lye for use. 

549. To Make Domestic Soap. Put 
the caustic soda lye, prepared in the manner 
and quantity given in the last receipt, into a 
clean iron kettle, and add, during continual 
stuTing, 12 pounds clarified grease, dusting in, 
a little at a time, 4 oimces finely powdered 
borax ; let it boil gently for 10 or 15 minutes, 
until it thickens and becomes ropy ; then have 
in readiness a tight box, lined with a piece of 
muslin large enough to hang well over the 
sides, to allow of the contents being after- 
ward conveniently lifted out ; pour the mix- 
ture from the kettle into the box, and let it 
stand for a few days to harden ; when suffi- 
ciently firm, turn it out onto a table, and cut 
it into bars with a thin wire. Soap thus made, 
and left to harden in a dry room, will be fit 
for use in a month. 

550. To Make Home-made Caustic 
Lye from Ashes. Provide a box whose 
sides terminate in a point, and having an ori- 



TOILET SOAPS. 



69 



fice at the lower end {see illustration); this 
should be mounted high enough to allow 
of a vessel being placed underneath it, to re- 
ceive the liquid that runs out of the bottom. 
The box is then well lined with straw {see 
No. 607), upon which fresh wood ashes are 
placed, addmg to the ashes about one twen- 




tieth the quantity of fresh slacked lime {see 
No. 519); then pour hot water upon it, and 
the lye will filter through into the vessel be- 
low. For the purposes of soap-making, this 
lye must be concentrated by boiling until a 
sound potato will not sink below the surface. 

551. To Make Home-made Soap. 
Fill an iron kettle two-thirds full of the con- 
centrated lye prepared according to the last 
receipt ; add to it melted fat, a ladleful at a 
time, stirring constantly until the mass be- 
comes creamy ; next add small quantities of 
salt at a time, stirring without intermission 
until a perfect ring can be made on the surface 
with a stick ; then let the fire go out and the 
soap will rise to the surface and harden as it 
«©ols ; the lye can be drawn from under it by 
tilting the kettle, or the soap may be lifted off 
and laid out to dry until hard enough to cut it 
into bars. {See No. 549.) 

552. Ox-gall Soap. Gall soap, for the 
washing of fine silken cloths and ribbons, is 
prepared in the following manner: In a 
vessel of copper 1 pound cocoanut oil is heated 
to 60^ Fahr., and ^ pound caustic soda is 
added, with constant stirring. In another 
vessel i pound white Yenetian turpentine is 
heated, and when quite hot, stirred into the 
copper kettle. This kettle is then covered 
and left for 4 hom's, being gently heated, after 
which the fire is increased until the contents 
are perfectly clear ; then 1 pound ox-gall is 
added. After this, sufficient perfectly dry 
Castile soap is stirred into the mixture to 
cause the whole to yield but little under the 
pressure of the finger ; for which pm-pose, 
from 1 to 2 pounds of soap are required for 
the above quantity. After cooling, the soap is 
cut into pieces. It is excellent, and will not 
injure the finest colors. 



Toilet Soaps. To this class be- 
long the finer kinds of scented soaps, 
which have emollient properties. They are 
rarely made direct by the perfumer, the body 
or basis being a well-selected white soap, subse- 
quently cleaned and purified. For the choic- 
est grades, the body should be made of a mix- j 
ture of olive and sweet-almond oil, as the fat ' 
stock. Lard and beef tallow make the next ! 
best stock ; and for palm soap a small quanti- [ 



ty of bleached palm oil is to be added to them. 
Cocoa oil and pale yellow resin saponaceous 
matters also enter into the composition of cer- 
tain toilet soaps. These body soaps may be 
obtained as wanted from any well-conducted 
soap factory. To be adapted to the purposes 
of perfumery they must be perfectly neutral, 
firm, free from unpleasant odor and all tenden- 
cy to crust in cold, or siveat in damp weather. 
They should, moreover, give a rich lather 
without wasting too rapidly in the water. 
Soaps, generally, in their original condition, 
are usually deficient in many of those points ; 
and must, for the purposes of perfumery, un- 
dergo a refining process, which is as follows : 

554. To Refine Soap for Making 
Toilet Soap. The soap, as purchased in 
bars or blocks, being piled upon the shelf of 
the rasping machine, is next placed in the 
hopper, and as the wheel revolves, knives 
come against the soap and cut it into meal, 
which falls into the reception box beneath. 
It is now in a state fit to be melted readily, 
for which purpose it is transferred to a steam 
bath, and mixed with rose and orange-flower 
waters, each half a gallon, to every hundred 
pounds of soap. The steam being let on, and 
the containing kettle covered, its contents be- 
come gradually fluid, and in this state must 
be stirred with a crutch — which is a long stick 
having the form of an inverted T — until the 
paste becomes uniformly consistent and 
smooth throughout. It is then allowed to 
cool, again melted, but without fragrant wa- 
ter, and crutched as before. When the con- 
tents of the vessel comprise several kinds of 
soap, great care must be observed not to put 
in all at once, but to add and melt each suc- 
cessively, and to crutch constantly, so as to 
effect an intimate mixtm-e. When the paste 
begins to cool, coloring matter as may be de- 
sired is then added, and subsequently the per- 
fume, which is reserved to the last, to avoid 
any unnecessary loss by evaporation from the 
hot paste. 

555. To Perfume, Cut and Stamp 
Toilet Soap. When extracts or bouquets 
are used, they must be added to the com- 
X)ound in meal, and incorporated with the 
mass by kneading it with the hands; for the ap- 
plication of heat would impair the delicacy of 
the odor, as well as occasion loss by its evap- 
oration. In large establishments this is done 
by passing the meal repeatedly between mar- 
ble rollers. 

The soap is now ready to be put into the 
cooling frames, which is a rectangular well, 
made of a series of wooden frames, resting 
successively one upon the other. In a day or 
two it is sufficiently hard to be cut into tab- 
lets of the size of the sections of each frame ; 
they are set up edgewise, and left for several 
days to dry, and are then barred by means of 
a wire. The sections or lifts of the frames 
regulate the width of the bars, and the gauges 
adjust their breadth — these latter being made 
so as to cut bars or squares of four, six, eight 
or any required number to the pound of soap. 
The bars are fm'ther subdivided into tablets, 
and subjected to pressm-e for the purpose of 
iniparting solidity, and ornamenting the exte- 
rior with some appropriate device, or impress- 
ing upon it the maker's name ; the shape of 
the tablet being determined by the form of the 



70 



TOILET SOAFS. 



mould or die-box in whicli it is pressed. The 
press is of ordinary construction, -with spiral 
springs to throw out the soap tablet from the 
die-box as soon as it is pressed. In some fac- 
tories the pressure is more effectually accom- 
plished by means of a steam hammer, which is 
made to give three blows, directly vertical, to 
each tablet of soap. Savonettes or soap-baUs 
are shaped by rotating blocks of soap upon a 
soap scoop made of brass, with sharp edges. 

556. To Marble Soap. The mottled or 
marble appearance is usually given to soap, 
on the large scale, by watering the nearly fin- 
ished soap with a strong lye of crude soda 
(preferably one rich in sulphurets), by means of 
a watering-pot furnished with a rose-spout. In 
Castile soap it is given with a solution of sul- 
phate of iron, used in the same way. On the 
small scale, with toilet soaps, the mottle is 
either given in the way noticed under "Mottled 
Soap Balls " {see No. 576), or, in a like manner, 
by combining some of the soap, colored at 
the time of scenting it, with the remaining 
imcolored portion. 

557. Almond Soap. This is a very 
white soap, which, when genuine, is made by 
the cold process {see Nos. 582 and 583), and 
from pure oil of sweet almonds. The kind, 
however, generally met with, is made as fol- 
lows : TVhite curd soap, 100 pounds ; cocoa- 
nut oil, 15 pounds ; purified as before directed 
{see No. 554), and perfumed with a mixture of 
attar of bitter almonds, 1^ pounds ; and attars 
of cloves and carawav, each 8 ounces. 

558. White "Windsor Soap. The gen- 
uine old white W^indsor is made from a body 
of which a mixture of lard and olive oil is the 
fat stock ; and attars of caraway, lavender, 
and rosemary, constitute the perfume. 

The modem "VTindsor soap is made from 
fine white curd soap, 115 pounds ; cocoanut- 
oil soap, 20 pounds ; perfumed with a mixture 
of attar of caraway, l-^- pounds; attars of 
thyme and rosemary, each 8 ounces ; and at- 
tars of cassia and cloves, each 4 ounces. 

559. Brown Windsor Soap. Curd 
soap, 100 pounds ; cocoanut oil soap, and pale 
yellow resin soap, each 25 pounds ; color with 
caramel {see No. 694), 8 ounces ; and perfume 
with a mixture of attars of caraway, cloves, 
thyme, cassia, petit-grain, and lavender, each 
8 ounces. Morfit's oleic soap, of first grade, 
is peculiarly adapted as a body for brown 
Wiudsor soap, as it gives a rich lather, and is 
very smooth and highly emollient. More- 
over, it contains its normal moisture for a 
great length of time. 

560. Honey Soap. AVliite cm-d soap, 40 
pounds ; melted and crutched with white 
honey, 10 pounds; storax, 2 poimds; and 
powdered benzoin, 1 pound. 

561. Imitation Honey Soap. An im- 
itation honey soap is made by melting togeth- 
er pale yellow soap, 100 pounds ; soft soap, 14 
pounds ; and perfumiug with attar of citron- 
ella, H pounds. 

562. Frangipani Soap. Cm-d soap, 
colored brown with caramel, 7 pounds ; per- 
fumed with a mixture of attars of neroU and 
vitivert, each 4 ounces ; attar of rose, 2 
drachms; attar of santal, 1^ ounces; and 
civet, 2 drachms. The latter is to be pre- 
viously triturated with the attars. 

563. Rose Soap. This is made from a 



mixture of olive oil soap, 60 pounds; and 
cm-d soap, 40 pounds ; colored with 1 pound 
of finely bolted vermilion. The perfume con- 
sisting of attar of rose, 6 ounces; attars of 
santal and geranium, each 1 ounce ; and tinc- 
ture of musk, 8 ounces ; must be added to the 
cold soap in meal, and incorporated by knead- 
ing. The oil soap may be replaced by curd 
soap, but the quality of the rose soap will not 
then be so fine. 

564. Savon au Bouquet. "WTiite soap, 
60 pounds; perfumed iu the cold with 8 
ounces of extract bouquet ; or in warm paste 
with a mixture of attar of bergamot, 8 ounces; 
attars of cloves and sassafras, each ^ ounce ; 
attar of thyme, 1 ounce ; attar of neroli, 1 
ounce. The soap body must be previously 
colored brown with 1 pound of caramel. The 
soap scented with the attars is inferior to that 
perfumed with extract bouquet. The per- 
fume, and with it the title of the soap, can be 
varied according to the caprice of fashion. 

565. Poncine Soap. Curd soap, 5Q 
pounds ; cocoanut oil soap, the same quanti- 
ty, melted to paste and crutched with 10 or 
20 pounds of finely bolted pumice-stone pow- 
der. The perfume is a mixture of attars of 
thyme, cassia, caraway, and lavender, each 1 
pound. 

566. Spermaceti Soap. The genuine 
spermaceti soap is superior to aU others in 
emoUient properties ; but it is rarely made 
from pure stock, owing to the difficulty in 
saponifying it. As generally vended it con- 
sists of white cm-d soap, 14 pounds ; perfumed 
with a mixture of attar of bergamot, 2^ 
ounces, and attar of lemon, 8 ounces. 

567. Palm Soap. Curd soap, made of 
a mixture of ^ lard, i bleached palm oil, and 
the remainder olive oil or spermaceti, consti- 
tutes the body of palm soap. Its natural 
odor is that of the violet, which is some- 
times stimulated by the addition of a little 
attar of portugal, with a less portion of attar 
of cloves. 

568. rioating Soap. All the hard 
soaps increase bulk by mechanical batting of 
the paste ; the loss of density thus produced 
gives them the property of floating in water. 
The batting is best accomplished by means of 
a churn-twirl, rotating on a pivot in the bot- 
tom of the melting pan, and put iu motion by 
a handle. 

Expose 5 pounds olive-oil or almond soap,, 
and 1;^ pints soft water in a bright copper pan,, 
to a steam or water heat, and assiduously beat 
and agitate the mixture until it has more than 
double its volume ; then pom* it into a cold 
frame, cool it quickly, and, when hard, cut it 
into bars or cakes. It may be colored and 
scented at will. Floats on water, and lathers 
fi-eely, but will not bear soaking or much wet, 
as it rapidly softens. 

569. Transparent Soap. This amber- 
looking soap is made by dissolving hard 
white soap, previously reduced to meal and 
thoroughly dried, in alcohol. A steam-bath, 
fitted with a still-head, makes a good con- 
taining vessel. The alcohol and soap are 
taken in about equal proportions ; and, as the 
solution proceeds, any spirit which may distill 
over must be allowed to condense in a woitu, 
and collected in a receiver. The heat should 
not exceed 212°. After solution, the whole 



TOILET SOAPS, 



71 



must be allowed time for settling; after 
which, the clear fluid is to be drawn off from 
the sediment into wooden frames ; or globular 
moulds of britannia metal, if it is desired to 
cast it in ball form. Previous to settling it 
may be colored as desii'ed — red, with tincture 
of alkanet ; yellow, with tincture of turmeric ; 
orange, with a mixture of the two tinctures ; 
green, with tinctm'e of chlorophyle; blue, 
with tincture of indigo carmine. Transparent 
soap is rather translucent when first made, 
and does not clear until perfectly dry. The 
perfumes are the same as for the other soaps. 

570. Glycerine Soap. Any mild toilet 
soap (as the basis of bouquet, rose, or Wind- 
sor soap) with which about ^ to ^ of its 
weight of Price's glycerine has been intimate- 
ly incorporated whilst in the melted state. It 
is generally tinged of a red or rose color, 
T>dth a little tincture of archil or of dragon's 
blood; or orange yellow, with a little an- 
natta. It is variously scented; but oil of 
bergamot, or rose-geranium (ginger-grass), 
supported with a little oil of cassia, or cassia 
supported with essential oil of almonds, ap- 
pear to be its favorite perfumes. 

571. Musk Soap. Best tallow soap, 30 
pounds ; palm oil soap, 20 pounds ; powdered 
cloves, pale roses and gilMowers, of each 4^ 
ounces ; essence of bergamot and essence of 
musk, of each 3^ ounces; Spanish brown, 4 
ounces. 

572. Orange Flower Soap. Best tal- 
low soap, 30 pounds ; palm oil soap, 20 
pounds ; essence of portugal and essence of 
ambergris, each 7^ ounces; yellowish green 
coloring, made of ochre and indigo, 8^ ounces ; 
vermilion, 1^ ounces. 

573. Cinnamon Soap. This is usually 
a mixture of tallow and oil soaps, like that of 
'^savon au bouquet,'' colored with about i 
pound yellow ochre, and scented with 1 ounce 
oil of cinnamon (supported with a little oil of 
bergamot and sassafras), to each 7 pounds. 
The following is the form of a celebrated maker 
of this soap, and is very fijie : 

6 pounds finest white cm"d soap ; 3-^ pounds 
finest palm oil soap ; 1 pound olive oil soap ; 
1\ ounce oU of cinnamon ; ^ ounce oil of 
bergamot ; ^ ounce oU of sassafras ; 1 drachm 
English oil of lavender ; and about i pound 
levigated yellow ochre. 

Oil of cassia is commonly substituted for 
the oil of cinnamoa; and always so in 
second and inferior qualities. 

574. Glycerine Soap Balls. To any 
recently made toilet soap, sliced, and melted 
by a gentle heat, without water (if possible), 
add Price's glycerine, in the proportion of 1 
ounce to the pound ; thoroughly incorporate 
them by vigorous stining, which should be 
continued until the mass has cooled consider- 
ably, when it should be at once made into 
balls. 

575. Sand Soap Balls. These are pre- 
pared by adding to the melted soap about half 
its weight of fine siUceous sand. Sifted sand ■■ 
is usually employed. Some persons prefer ; 
the shelly sea-sand (sifted from the shells and 
well washed) for the purpose. For the finer 
qualities, finely-powdered pumice-stone is now : 
usually employed. Used to prevent rough- ; 
ness and thickening of the skin in cold weath- i 
er ; also to clean the hands when dirty. The ' 



best yellow soap, with or without the addition 
of i its weight of white soft soap and a little 
sweet oil, is the best for these balls. 

576. Mottled Soap Balls. Cut the soap 
(recently prepared, and not too dry) into dice, 
or small square pieces, roUthemin colored pow- 
der {see below% and then mould them into 
balls by powerful pressure, observing to mix 
the colors as little as possible. 

The colors usually employed, and which 
should be in very fine powder, are : Blue — 
indigo, powder-blue, or smalts, G-reen — pow- 
der-blue and bright yellow- ochre. Orange — 
yellow deepened with a little red. Heel — ■ 
red bole, sesquioxide of iron, or jeweler's 
rouge. Yellow — bright yellow-ochre, or Dutch 
pink. 

By varying the shade of color, which is 
done by diluting it with a little farina or chalk, 
and by using soap-dice separately coated with 
two or more colors, '•'mottled savonettes " of 
any color, or mixture of colors, may be pro- 
duced at will. 

577. Mercurial Soap. Take of corro- 
sive sublimate (crushed small), 1 drachm; 
rectified spirit (to dissolve, say) 1 fluid 
ounce; white Castile soap (in powder), 4 
ounces; beat them to a uniform mass in a 
wedgwood-ware mortar, adding a few drops 
of attar of roses, or of a mixture of the oils 
of cassia and bitter almonds. Xothing me- 
tallic must touch it. This is the '' sapo hy- 
drargyri bichloridi" of medical writers. The 
above has been recommended in various skin 
diseases, including itch ; also as " Savon An- 
tisyphilitique," under which name it is often 
sold. 

578. Sulphur Soap ; Sulphuretted 
Soap. Take i pound white curd or Castile 
soap (recent); 1 ounce best flowers of sulphur 
(levigated) ; 1 fluid ounce rectified spirit 
(strongly colored with alkanet) ; and sufficient 
attar of roses to strongly scent the mass. 
Beat the whole together, to a smooth paste, 
in a marble or 'wedgwood ware mortar. 
This is Sir H. Marsh's formula. Kecom- 
mended in itch, and various other skin dis- 
eases. It is particularly serviceable as a com- 
mon toilet soap, to persons troubled with 
slight cutaneous eruptions. Its daily use 
tends to render the skin fair and smooth. 
The spirit and coloring may be omitted at 
will; and, as a toilet soap, only half the 
above quantity of sulphur is amply sufficient. 

579. Caution in using Medicated 
Soaps. Before using mercm'ial or sulphur 
soap, finger-rings, ear-iings, and bracelets of 
gold, &c., should be removed, and not re- 
placed until some short time after the hands 
have become quite dry ; as otherwise they 
wiU be tarnished, and even blackened and 
corroded. The same apphes to aU other cos- 
metics containing the same mineral ingre- 
dients. 

580. Whale-oil Soap to Destroy In- 
sects. Render common lye caustic, by boil- 
ing it at fuU strength on quicklime ; then 
take the lye and boil it with as much whale- 
oil foot as it will saponify (change to soap), 
pour off into moulds, and, when cold, it is 
tolerably hard. TVTiale-oil i--t is the sedi- 
ment produced in refining whale oil. 

581. Carbolic Acid Soap. Take freshly 
prepared cocoanut-oU soap, 150 parts, and fuse-- 



72 



SOAP BY THE COLD PROCESS. 



then add a solution of alcohol, 10 parts ; car- 
bolic acid, 6 parts ; caustic potassa, 2 parts ; 
oil of lemon, 1 part ; and mix with stirring. 
To be poured into moulds. 



Soap "by tlie Cold Process. 
Although the commoner kinds of soap 
are usually made by boiling, they can be 
made by the cold process if desired ; and the 
fatty substances employed are substantially 
the same in both methods. The cold or little- 
pan process is, however, almost exclusively 
adopted in the manufacture of fancy or toilet 
soaps, and for these purposes the fat requires j 
to be purified and deodorized, especially where j 
any delicate scent is to be used in perfuming | 
it. {See Nos. 533 and 530.) The lye em- 
ployed for saponification without boiling must 
be much stronger than that used in the boil- 
ing process, and should be entirely clear and 
colorless; a strength of about 36° Baume is 
usually necessary. 

583. To Make Soap by the Cold Pro- 
cess. Incorporate by degrees 50 pounds 
concentrated caustic lye of 36° Baume, into 
100 pounds fat at a temperature not higher 
than 104° Fahr. {see Xo. 523); continue to stir 
thoroughly with a broad wooden paddle, until 
a complete ring can be drawn on its surface 
with the paddle. In making scented soap, 
the perfuming ingredients must now be stirred 
in. The paste is then run into frames lined 
with linen^ flaps of which should be left above 
the edges of each frame, wide enough to ad- 
mit of their being laid over the surface of the 
paste, with which the frame must be entirely 
fiUed. The paste being thus completely con- 
fined by the linen, the frames are closed with 
a wooden cover and left for 12 hours. Dur- 
ing this interval the temperature of the paste 
in the frames rises spontaneously to a much 
higher degree, producing complete saponifica- 
tion. The soap is afterwards taken out of the 
frames, cut, and dried. The hardness of the 
soap will depend on the description of fats 
and lyes used. {See No. 521.) 

58^. Method of Testing Caustic 
Alkali. The strength and practical value of 
commercial caustic soda or potash can only 
be ascertained by analysis. The methods 
given below are simple, and will determine, 
with sufficient accuracy, the percentage of 
water, caustic alkali, and carbonated alkali 
contained in a given sample ; and hence the 
quantity of impurity, if any. 

585.' To Find the Percentage of Wa- 
ter in a Caustic Soda or Potash. Weigh 
carefully 100 grains of the alkali into a cap- 
sule (a flat evaporating dish of suitable size, 
a watch glass is a small capsule), and dry 
them by heating over a flame ; a cold glass 
held over the contents of the capsule will 
show the slightest evaporation of water. 
When no more moisture can be detected, al- 
low them to cool ; then weigh the residue in 
the capsule, and the dififereuce of the weights 
before and after drying will be the number of 
grains of water contained in 100 grains of the 
alkali ; that is, the percentage of water. 

586. To Estimate the Percentage of 
Caustic Alkali in a Caustic Soda or 
Potash. Powder 100 grains of the alkali to 



be tested; put it into a flask containing an 
ounce of 95° alcohol, and shake thoroughly ; 
the alcohol dissolves the caustic alkah per* 
fectly, but will not take up any other in- 
gredients. After standing for a few hours to 
settle, decant the clear liquid, and evaporate 
on a porcelain capsule until thoroughly dry ; 
the weight of the dry residue will be the num- 
ber of grains, i. e., the percentage, of caustic 
alkali in 100 grains of the soda or potash. 

587. To Find the Percentage of Cars 
bonated Alkali in a Caustic Soda or Pot- 
ash. Dissolve 100 grains of the sample in 4 
ounces water in a flask ; next weigh out 10b 
grains finely powdered crystals of oxalic acid . 
add small portions of this acid at a time t^ 
the alkali in the flask, stirring thoroughly 
with a glass rod, and apply heat ; continue to 
add the acid until the hot mixture tinges lit- 
mus paper slightly red ; the saturation is then 
complete, and the acid has neutralized or com- 
bined with all the alkali, both carbonate and 
caustic. "Weigh the oxalic acid which re- 
mains ; and, by deducting from 100, we know 
how much we have used. 1n"ow every 7.87 
grains oxalic acid that have been used, have 
neutralized 5 grains soda or 7 grains potash, 
according as the sample consists of caustic 
soda or caustic potash; hence we find the 
total number of grains of aJJcali in the 100 
grains under test. By the previous method 
we can find the percentage of caustic alkali in 
100 grains of the sample; deducting the 
grains of this latter from the weight of the 
whole alkali eliminated by the oxalic acid, the 
balance or remainder will be the percentage 
of carbonated alkali. 

By these three steps we get the percentage 
of water, the percentage of caustic alkali, and 
the percentage of carbonated alkali ; these 
added together and deducted from 100 give 
the percentage of foreign matter or impurity 
in the matter tested. {See Alkalimetry.) 

588. To Make Soap-makers' Concen- 
trated Caustic Lye. Boil 85 gallons water 
in a kettle capable of holding 150 gallons; 
stir in, a little at a time, 100 pounds powdered 
soda (or potash, if for potash lye), until it 
is all dissolved; then mix in gi-adually, by 
stirring, 48 pounds freshly slacked lime of a 
creamy consistency ; the boiling must not be 
allowed to slacken dming the whole process, 
until complete causticity is obtained, which 
may be ascertained by taking a little in a test 
glass, and, ichen cool, adding to it a few drops 
of nitric acid; if this causes effervescence, the 
causticity is imperfect and the boiling must be 
continued until a test with nitric acid causes 
no effervescence. When this is the case, the 
contents of the kettle should be allowed to 
cool and settle for about 12 hours. The clear 
liquor can then be drawn off into a vat lined 
with lead — a syphon may be used for this pur- 
pose with advantage. The lye can be made 
to any desired strength by evaporation. 

589. To Make Concentrated Caustic 
Soda Lye— Kurten's Method. The lye fit 
for toilet soap must be either made from the 
purest Grerman soda at 95 degrees of strength, 
or (which is better for the pui-pose) from 
crystallized soda. English soda of 80 to 83 
degrees, such as is generally found in com- 
merce, is not to be used, as it produces a bad 
article. 



SOFT SOAPS. 



73 



When the lye for finer soap is to be made, 
100 pounds lime are added to 100 pounds 
German soda at 95 per cent,, whereas 45 
pounds lime to 100 pounds crystallized soda is 
the general proportion. 

The soda is dissolved in the boiler with 
water, or with a weak lye remaining from a 
former operation at 20 degrees of strength, 
and afterwards added to the lime slacked to a 
state like broth. This mixture must boil 2 
hours and be left to deposit. 

The next day, the lye, which probably may 
be at 12 degrees (Baume) must be taken out, 
and the boiler filled afresh. The lye drawn 
from the Ume and at 8 degrees, is poured in 
with it to evaporate. By this method a lye is 
produced at a medium of 9 or 10 degrees, but 
it must be evaporated till, according to 
areometer, it shows 34 degrees. After the 
cooling it will weigh 36 pounds. This evap- 
oration of the lye is to increase its causticity, 
and to cause all the dirt contained in it to 
precipitate to the bottom, which can be done 
in a day if it is sufficiently strong. 

The »• clear lye is then drawn ofi" from the 
dirty deposit, and put either into vitriol bottles 
or into an iron vessel well covered. If vitriol 
bottles are used, they must be filled with 
water in which some lime has been dissolved, 
to take away any acid remaining in the bottle, 
which would, if this precaution" be not taken, 
absorb much of the causticity of the lye ; and 
this must be done several days before using 
the bottles. The dirt and deposit from the 
salt remaining at the bottom after the boiling, 
can be added to the lime in the weak lyes. 

"We have not made the experiment of using 
the lye stronger than 11 degrees before evap- 
oration, as we have learned from France that 
it must not be stronger than 11 degrees. Yet, 
after mature experience, it appears to us 
now that a lye can be obtained quite as good 
by adding more soda and lime to the lye, and 
thus increasing the strength to 18 or 20 de- 
grees, by which the evaporation is spared. 
In this case more vessels are wanted, which 
must not be of wood, but of iron, because the 
wood will color the lye, which must be 
especially avoided for fine soap, for the only 
means of obtaining a perfect soap, free from 
defect, is to use none except the finest and 
whitest lye, and oil or grease of the greatest 
purity, 

590. To Test Lye. In testing the 
strength of lyes with a hydrometer, an exact 
result could be obtained if the caustic alkali 
employed by soap-makers and dyers were 
absolutely pure; but as this is seldom, if 
ever, the case, the impurities which exist in 
the lyes under examination, influence the 
specific weight of the lye, and due allowance 
must be made for this ; thus, an indication by 
the hydrometer of 20 per cent, does not prove 
that the lye contains 20 per cent, of pure 
caustic alkali, but includes the foreign matter. 
Still, this method of testing will give com- 
imrative strengths exactly. 

591. White Soap. Lard, 40 pounds; 
and caustic soda \jq, of 35° Baume, 20 
pounds. Melt the fat by a heat not exceeding 
150° Fahr.; add, during constant stimng, 10 
pounds of the lye. After one hour's stirring, 
the heat being continued all the time at a 
moderate degree, the remaining 10 pounds of 



lye are to be added. When the paste has be- 
come smooth and uniform throughout, it is 
transferred to a cooling frame, perfumed, and 
left in a room of moderate temperature for a 
few days to set and ripen. It is then ready 
to be cut into tablets and pressed. 

592. Almond Soap. Grenuine almond 
soap is made from oil of sweet almonds, 50 
pounds, and soda lye of 36° Baume, 25 
pounds, the latter being gradually added to 
the former at a temperature between 125° to 
150°, and the whole stu'red constantly until 
the mixture is a smooth paste. It is then 
transferred to a cooling frame, perfumed with 
attar of bitter almonds, and then left for 
several days to set and npen. 

593. Ordinary Cocoanut Oil Soap. 
100 pounds cocoanut oil — or 90 pounds cocoa- 
nut oil and 10 pounds of either taUoworpalm 
oil — saponified by the cold process with 225 
pounds caustic soda lye of 21° Baume, and 75 
pounds of salt water of 12° Baume, will com- 
bine to form 400 pounds of cocoanut oil soap. 

594. Cocoanut Oil Soap. 100 pounds 
cocoanut oil and 56 pounds caustic soda lye of 
36° Baume, treated according to the cold 
process, will produce 153 pounds cocoanut oil 



595. Paris Toilet Tablet Soap. 87 

pounds of this soap can be made by the cold 
process by using the following ingredients : 20 
pounds tallow, 30 pounds cocoanut oil, 8 pounds 
lard, 31 pounds caustic soda lye of 36° Baume, 
and 5 pounds caustic potash lye of the same 
strength. 

596. Paris Toilet Round Soap. 25 
pounds cocoanut oil, 75 pounds lard, 50 to 52 
pounds caustic soda lye of 36° Baume, will 
produce 150 pounds of the soap. 

597. Shaving Soap. Either 66 pounds 
tallow and 34 pounds cocoanut oil — or 33 
pounds of tallow, the same quantity of palm 
oil, and 34 pounds cocoanut oil — treated by 
the cold process with 120 pounds caustic soda 
lye of 27° Baume, will make 214 pounds of 
shaving soap. An addition of 12 pounds of 
salt water of 12° Baume to the palm oil mix- 
ture, will add 12 pounds to the yield of soap. 

598. Washing" Soap. A mixture of 
either 60 pounds tallow — or 30 pounds each of 
tallow and palm oil — with 40 pounds of cocoa- 
nut oil, treated by the cold process with 125 
pounds caustic soda lye of 27° Baume, and 
25 pounds salt water of 12° Baume, will turn 
out 244 pounds washing soap. 

599. Cheap Washing Soap. 60 pounds 
cocoanut oil with 40 pounds of either tallow 
or palm oil, treated cold with 135 pounds 
caustic soda lye of 27° Baume, and 50 pounds 
salt water of 15° Baume, will produce 278 
pounds washing soap. 



Soft Soaps. These difi^er from the 
hard soaps in having potash in place 
of soda as their alkaline base. They are all 
more or less pasty or gelatinous; and they 
may be made either by the boihng or cold 
process. Of the soft soaps used in perfumery, 
that known as fig soap is the only one that is 
boiled. 

601. Fig Soap. The fat stock is chiefly 
oil — generallv olive oil — with the addition of 



74. 



SOFT SOAPS. 



a little tallow to give it the granular appear- 
ance called fig. 

603. Shaving Cream. This is made by 
melting 20 pounds of lard in a steam bath at 
a temperature of 212°, and then letting 5 
pounds of caustic potassa lye of 36° Baume 
run in vej-y slowly^ during constant stirring with 
a wooden paddle; when the paste becomes 
thick, 5 pounds more of lye are added in the 
same manner. After several hours' stirring 
the paste becomes firm, and is finished. It is 
then transferred to a mortar and tritm-ated 
until the soap becomes perfectly even through- 
out, and assumes a pearly appearance. Attar 
of almonds is the perfume for almond cream ; 
and attar of rose for rose cream. They are 
dissolved in a little alcohol, and added during 
the trituration. The rose cream is colored at 
the same time with tincture of alkanet. 

603. Rypophagon Soap. This is a 
mixture of equal parts of pale yellow resin 
soap and fig soft soap, perfumed with attars 
of anise and citronella. 

604. Essence of Soap or Shaving 
Cream. Take i pound white soft soap {see 
No. 606), 2 fluid drachms liquor of potassa ; 
1 pint rectified spirit, and perfume at will; 
put them into a strong bottle of glass or tin, 
cork it close, set it in warm water for a short 
time, and occasionally agitate it briskly until 
solution be complete. After repose, pour off 
the clean portion from the dregs (if any) into 
clean bottles for use, and at once closely cork 
them. If the solution be not sufficiently 
transparent, a little rectified spirit should be 
added to it before decantation. A little spirit 
(fully proof) may be added if it be desired to 
render it thinner. If much essential oil be 
used to perfume it, the transparency of the 
product will be lessened. 

605. Soft Olive Oil Soap; Medicinal 
or Toilet Soft Soap is soap made of olive oil 
and potash. It is yellowish- white, inodorous, 
and of the consistence of thick honey. It is 
the soft soap (sapo mollis) of the British 
Pharmacopoeia. 

606. White Soft Soap is soap made of 
lard and potash. Only used in cosmetics and 
as a toilet soap. 

607. Fine Shaving Cream. Take of 
clarified lard, 7 pounds (avoirdupois) ; potash 
lye (26 per cent, of caustic potash), Sf pounds ; 
rectified spirits, 3 ounces ; oil of bitter al- 
monds, 2 drachms. Melt the lard in a porce- 
lain vessel, by a salt-water bath ; then run in 
the lye, very slowly, agitating the whole 
time ; when about half" the lye is in, the mix- 
ture begins to curdle ; it wiU, however, be- 
come so firm that it cannot be stirred. It 
will assume a pearly appearance by triturating 
in a mortar, and slowly adding the alcohol, 
holding the oil of almonds in solution. This 
furnishes a splendid shaving cream. 

608. To Make Good Common Soft 
Soap. For a barrel of soap take 12 pounds 
of potash to 14 pounds of grease. Dissolve 
the potash over night in 2 pailfuls of hot soft 
water, in the morning pour it hot over the 
grease, which must have been previously 
rendered down and put in the barrel, put 
more water on the potash that remains undis- 
solved; when hot, add as before, and so on 
until all the potash is dissolved ; fill up the 
barrel more slowly with cold water, finishing 



it the next day ; stir it very frequently during 
the day and for several successive days. Al- 
low it to rest for three months in the cellar. 

609. Shaker Method of Making Soft 
Soap. Place a shallow iron kettle, to hold 
from 4 to 6 barrels, just out of the wash-room, 
under cover of a shed. Extend ^ or f inch 
pipe for steam to the middle of the bottom, 
bending it to form of smface, and terminating 
with open end. Take another pipe to dis' 
charge cold water over the top of the kettle 
Use the best quality of first sorts of potash, 
in the proportion of 6 pounds of potash to 7 
pounds of grease, for a barrel of 40 gallons. 
Break up the potash into small lumps, and 
dissolve it in say 2 pails of hot water to 24 
pounds. It dissolves rather slowly when the 
potash is good. When dissolved, put the so- 
lution into the kettle, add the grease quite 
warm, and stir the mixtm-e together. Allow 
it to stand over night, if convenient. In the 
morning, apply a moderate jet of steam until 
the mixture appears ropy, or rather soapy. 
Shut off the steam and open the cold water 
valve, stirring the mixture as the water runs, 
until the kettle is full, or the required quantity 
obtained for the materials used.* 

610. To Make Good Lye. Hickory 
ashes are the best for making common wash- 
ing soft soap (when it is not desirable to use 
the potash lye), but those from sound beech, 
maple, or almost any kind of hard wood, ex- 
cept oak, will answer well. A common 
barrel, set upon an inclined platform, makes 
a very good leach, but one made of boards set 
in a trough in Y shape is to be preferred, for 
the strength of the ashes is better obtained, 
and it may be taken to pieces when not in 
use, and laid up. First, in the bottom of the 
leach put a few sticks ; over them spread a 
piece of carpet or woolen cloth, which is 
much better than straw ; put on a few inches 
of ashes, and from 4 to 8 quarts Hme ; fill 
with ashes, moistened, and tamp down well — 
tamp the firmest in the centre. It is difficult 
to obtain the full strength of ashes in a barrel 
without removing them after a day's leaching, 
and mixing them up and replacing. The top 
should be first thrown off^ and new ashes 
added to make up the proper quantity. Use 
boiling water for second leaching. This lye 
should be sufficiently strong to float a potato. 

611. To Make Soft Soap. Take 
about 4 gallons the above lye, and boil up 
thoroughly with 12 pounds of clear grease, 
then add the lye as it is obtained, keeping a 
slow fire, and stirring often, until you have 
a barrel of soap. After boiling the grease 
and 4 gallons of lye together, it may be put 
in a barrel and the rest of the lye added there, 
which will form good soap if frequently 
stirred, but the heating process is the best 
when weather and time will permit the work 
to be done. 

612. To Make Soft Soap. Break up 8 
pounds potash into small lumps, and put it 
into an iron pot with about 3 gallons boiling 
water; melt in another iron pot 8 pounds 
clarified fat ; put 3 or 4 gallons hot water into 
a clean barrel, and add to it a ladleful each of 
the lye and the fat ; stir thoroughly, and add 
the lye and the fat, a single ladleful of each 
at a time, until the whole is thoroughly 
mixed ; then stir in a ladleful of hot water at 



SOFT SOAFS. 



75 



a time until the barrel is full, and stir till the 
mixture becomes a creamy mass ; put it away 
for 3 months in a moderately cool place and 
it will be ready for use. 

613. To Make Turpentine Soap. 
Cut up 3 pounds brown soap and melt it in 7 
quarts water, then put it in a stone pot and 
add 9 table -spoonfuls spirits of turpentine and 
6 of alcohol. 

,\ 614. To Use Turpentine Soap. Make 
very hot suds "with some of the soap {see last 
receipt), and let the clothes remain in it half 
an hour. Then wash them out and rinse as 
other clothes are done. It is particularly nice 
for blankets and quilts, as it removes the dirt 
and requires very little rubbing. 

615. To Make Soft Soap Hard. Put 
into a kettle 4 pailfuls of soft soap, and stir in 
it, by degrees, about 1 quart of common salt. 
Boil until all the water is separated from the 
curd, remove the fire from the kettle, and 
draw off the water with a syphon (a yard or 
so of India rubber hose will answer). Then 
pour the soap into a wooden form iu which 
muslin has been placed. (See No. 549.) For 
this purpose, a wooden box, sufficiently large 
and tight, may be employed. AVTien the soap 
is firm, turn it out to dry, cut into bars with a 
brass wire and let it harden. A little 
powdered resin will assist the soap to harden, 
and give it a yellow color. If the soft soap is 
very thin, more salt must be used. 

616. Labor-saving Soap. Take 2 
pounds sal soda, 2 pounds yellow bar soap, 
and 10 quarts water. Cut the soap in thia 
slices, and boil together 2 hours; strain, and 
it will be fit for use. Put the clothes in soak 
the night before you wash, and to every pail 
of water in which you boil them, add a pound 
of soap. They will need no nibbing ; merely 
rinse them out, and they will be perfectly 
clean and white. 

617. To Estimate the duality of 
Soap. The quality of soap may be properly 
estimated from the amount of fatty acids 
which any given specimen contains. The 
following simple analysis may be performed 
by any one, and may be relied upon as giving 
good results. The soap to be examined 
should be dissolved in water. If distilled 
water cannot be readily obtaiued, raia water 
will answer well enough. "When a perfect 
solution is obtained, add hydrochloric acid. 
After a little while the fatty acids will be 
found to be separated from the other con- 
stituents of the soap. These should be col- 
lected, and their relative weight for any given 
quantity estimated. The relative weight thus 
found will be a sufficiently just indication of 
the quality. 

618. To Test Soap. The readiest way 
to fiud whether soap will injure the delicate 
skin of women or children is to test it with 
the tongue. Good soap, ia which the caustic 
alkali is neutralized by thorough combination 
with the fat, wiU not have a sharp taste. 
The soap used in medicine, and the transpar- 
ent soaps, are neutral and good. Many toilet 
soaps, and especially the imitation marbled 
castile soap, so abundant in the trade, contaiu 
too much free alkah. They have not been 
thoroughly boiled, and are very sharp. It is 
not advisable to use such soaps upon delicate 
skins, as they induce redness of appearance, 



and give the skin a tendency to roughen or 
chap, especially when exposed to the wind. 

619. To Pulverize Hard Soap. Hard 
bar soap should be scraped or planed into fine 
shavings, dried in the sun, or by heat, 
thoroughly, and then pounded or crushed. 
After this, it should be placed in a bowl or 
kettle, and a small cannon ball should be used 
to pulverize it ; when thoroughly pulverized 
it may be sifted through a very fine sieve. 

620. To Analyze Soap. Take a small 
portion of the soap, place it in a suitable 
vessel (a beaker glass), add ether to it, and 
next acetic acid in a somewhat smaller quan- 
tity. The liquid will separate, after a while, 
into two distinct layers, the upper of which 
contains in solution the fatty acids, while the 
lower layer contains the alkalies and salts, 
and such substances as might happen to be 
insoluble in the two fluids just named. By 
means of a pipette, the fluids are separated 
from each other. The ethereal solution is 
poured into a previously weighed beaker glass, 
and the ether evaporated upon a water bath, 
and next again weighed with the fatty acids 
it contains. The aqueous acetic acid is 
evaporated to dryness, and the quantity of 
alkali determined according to well-known 
methods. (See Xo. 586). 

621. Analysis of Soda and Potassa 
Lyes. The following tables will show at a 
glance all the practical information necessary 
for analyzing or testing the strength of lyes, 
either simple or caustic, as well as affording 
thorough guidance in mixing or adjusting the 
strength of lye for any speciiic purpose. 

622. Lorm^'s Tables. The following 
tables are used to transform stronger lyes into 
weaker of a definite degree of strength, and 
are by Mr. Eugene Lorme. 

The first column at the left of each table 
shows the quantity and the degree of the lye 
to be diluted. 

The second indicates the quantity of water 
to be added to the lye. 

The thu'd gives the amount of the lye ob- 
tained by the admixture of both liquids. 

The fourth exhibits the degrees of Baume's 
areometer of the lye. 

623. Table showing the different 
Areometric Degrees resulting from a 
mixture of 10 gallons of soda lye, of 36 
degrees Baum6, with quantities of water 
varying from 10 to 90 gallons. 





Number of 

gallons 

of obtained 

Lye. 


Degrees of 

Baume of 

the mixture. 


10 i 10 


20 


23° 


10 


20 


30 


17 


10 


30 


40 


14 


10 


40 


50 


12 


10 


50 


60 


10 


10 


60 


70 


9 


10 


70 


80 


8 


10 


80 


90 


7i 


10 1 90 


100 


6f 


10 gallons of lye, r 


)f 36 degre 


es Baum6, 


weigh 112i lbs. 







76 



SOFT SOAPS. 



624. Table showing the different Areo- 
metric Degrees resvlting from a mix- 
ture of 10 pounds o^ soda lye, of 36 de- 
grees Baum6, with quantities of water 
varying from 10 to 90 pounds. 



Number of 


Number of 


Number of 


Degrees of 


pounds 


pounds of 


pounds 


of Lye of 36 


Water to be 


of Lye 




degrees. 


employed. 


obtained. 




10 


10 


20 


21° 


10 


20 


30 


14i 


10 


30 


40 


m 


10 


40 


50 


10 


10 


50 


60 


9 


10 


60 


70 


8 


10 


70 


80 


6i 


10 


80 


90 


5i 


10 


90 


100 


5 nearly 


8-8 gaUc 


ns of lye, 


of 30 degr( 


3es Baume, 


weigh 100 ] 


rounds. 







625 . Table showing the different Areo- 
metric Degrees resulting from a mix- 
ture of 10 gallons of soda lye, of 30 de- 
grees Baume, with quantities of water 
varying from 10 to 90 gallons. 



Number of 
gallons 

of Lye of 30 
degrees. 


Number of 
gallons of 
Water to be 
employed. 


Number of 

gallons 

of Lye 

obtained. 


Degrees of 

Baume of 

tbe mixture. 


10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 
10 


10 

20 
30 
40 
50 
60 
70 
80 
90 


20 
30 
40 
50 
60 
70 
80 
90 
100 


19° 

nearly 14 
11 

9 

8 
7 
6 
5 
4i 


10 gallons of soda lye, of 30 degrees, weigh 
104 pounds ; 75 gallons of this lye and 25 gal- 
lons of water give 100 gaUons of lye of 25 
degrees Banme. There are 23:^ pounds ot 
caustic soda wanted for making 10 gallons of 
lye of 30 degrees Baume. 



626. Table showing the different Areo- 
metric Degrees resulting from a mix- 
ture of 10 pounds of soda lye, of 30 de- 
grees Baume, with quantities of water 
varying from 10 to 90 pounds. 



Number of 


Number of 


Number of 


Degrees of 


pounds 


pounds of 


pounds 


of Lye of 30 


Water to be 


of Lye 




degrees. 


employed. 


obtained. 




10 


10 


20 


170 


10 


20 


30 


12 


10 


30 


40 


9i 


10 


40 


50 


7i 


10 


50 


60 


6i 


10 


60 


70 


5i 


10 


70 


80 


5or5i 


10 


80 


90 


4i 


10 


90 


100 


4 


9-6 gallo 


ns of lye, 


of 30 degre 


es Baume, 


weigh 100 ] 


)ounds. 







627. Gerlach's Table, showing the 
percentage of Carbonate of Soda con- 
tained in its Solutions. 



Per cent. 



1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 

10 

11 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 

23 

24 

25 

26 



Specific 
Weight. 



1-00914 
1-01829 
1-02743 
1-03658 
1-04572 
1-05513 



.06454 

.07396 

.08337 

.09278 

.10258 

.11238 

.12219 

.13199 

.14179 

.15200 

.16222 

.17243 

.18265 

1.19286 

1-20344 

1-21402 

1-22459 

1-23517 

1-24575 

1-25681 



Per cent. 



27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
41 
42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 
49 
50 
51 
52 



Specific 
Weight. 



1-26787 
1.27893 
1-28999 
1-30105 
1-31261 
1-32417 
1-33573 
1-34729 
1-35885 
1-37082 
1-38279 
1-39476 
1-40673 
1-41870 
1-43104 
1-44338 
1-45573 
1-46807 
1-48041 
1-49314 
1-50588 
1-51861 
1-53135 
1-54408 
1-55728 
1.57048 



628. Schiffs Table, showing the 
percentage of Crystallized and Anhy- 
drous Soda in Solutions of Carbonate of 
Soda. 





Per cent, of 


Per cent, of 


Specific Weight. 


Crystallized 


Anhydrous 




Soda. 


Soda. 


1-0038 


1 


0-370 


1-0076 


2 


0-741 


1-0114 


3 


1.112 


1-0153 


4 


1-482 


1-0192 


5 


1-853 


1-0231 


6 


2-223 


1-0270 


7 


2-594 


1-0309 


8 


2.965 


1-0348 


9 


3-335 


1-0.388 


10 


3-706 


1-0428 


11 


4.076 


1-0468 


12 


4.447 


1-0508 


13 


4-817 


1-0548 


14 


5-188 


1-0588 


15 


5.558 


1-0628 


16 


5-929 


1-0668 


17 


6-299 


1-0708 


18 


6.670 


1-0748 


19 


7-041 


1-0789 


20 


7.412 


1-0830 


21 


7-782 


1-0871 


22 


8.153 


1.0912 


23 


8-523 


1-0953 


24 


8.894 


1-0994 


25 


9.264 


1-1035 


26 


9-635 


1-1076 


27 


10.005 


1-1117 


28 


10.376 


1-1158 


29 


10.746 


1.1200 


30 


11.118 


1.1242 


31 


11.488 


1.1284 


32 


11-859 


1-1326 


33 


12-230 


1.1368 


34 


12-600 



TO MAKE HOME-MADE TALLOW CANDLES. 



77 



SchiflPs Table (Continued). 





Per cent, of 


Per cent, of 


Specific Weight. 


Crystallized 


Anhydrous 




Soda. 


Soda. 


1-1410 


35 


12.971 


1.1452 


36 


13.341 


1.1494 


37 


13.712 


1-1536 


38 


14.082 


1-1578 


39 


14.453 


1-1620 


40 


14-824 


1.1662 


41 


15-195 


1.1704 


42 


15.566 


1.1746 


43 


15-936 


1.1788 


44 ■ 


16-307 


1.1830 


45 


16-677 


1.1873 


46 


17-048 


1.1916 


47 


17-418 


1-1959 


48 


17.789 


1.2002 


49 


18-159 


1-2045 


50 


18-530 



629. Table showing the percentage 
of Anhydrous Potassa in Caustic Po- 
tassa Lye. 



Specific 
Gravity. 



Potassa in 
100. 



1-3300 
1-3131 
1-2966 
1-2805 
1-2648 
1-2493 
1-2342 
1-2263 
1-2122 
1-1979 
1-1838 
1-1702 
1.1568 



28-290 
27-158 
26-027 
24-895 
23.764 
22-632 
21-500 
20-935 
19-803 
18-671 
17-540 
16-408 
15.277 



Specific 
Gravity. 



1-1437 
1-1308 
1-1182 
1-1059 
1-0938 
1-0819 
1.0703 
1-0589 
1-0478 
1-0369 
1-0260 
1-0153 
1-0050 



Potassa in 
100. 



14-145 
13-013 

11.882 

10-75 
9-619 
8-487 
7-355 
6-224 
5-002 
3-961 
2-829 
1-697 
0-5658 



630. Table showing the percentage 
of Caustic Soda in Soda Lye. 



Specific 
Gravity. 


Per cent. 


Specific 
Gravity. 


Per cent. 


1-4285 


30-220 


1-2392 


15.110 


1-4193 


29-616 


1-228 


14.506 


1-4101 


29-011 


1-2178 


13.901 


1-4011 


28-407 


1-2058 


13-297 


1-3923 


27-802 


1-1948 


12-692 


1-3836 


27-200 


1-1841 


12-088 


1-3751 


26-594 


1.1734 


11-484 


1-3668 


25-989 


1.1630 


10-879 


1-3586 


25-385 


1.1528 


10-275 


1-3505 


24-780 


1-1428 


9-670 


1-3426 


24-176 


1-1330 


9.066 


1-3349 


23-572 


1.1233 


8.462 


1-3273 


22-967 


1-1137 


7.857 


1-3198 


22-363 


1-1042 


7.253 


1-3143 


21-884 


1-0948 


6.648 


1-3125 


21-894 


1-0855 


6-694 


1-3053 


21-154 


1-0764 


5-540 


1-2982 


20-550 


1.0675 


4-835 


1-2912 


19-945 


1-0587 


4.231 


1-2843 


19-341 


1-0500 


3.626 


1-2775 


18-730 


1-0414 


3.022 


1 -2708 


18-132 


1-0330 


2.418 


1-2642 


17-528 


1-0246 


1.813 


1 -2578 


16-923 


1.0163 


1.209 


1-2515 


16-319 


1-0081 


-604 


1.2453 


15-814 


1-0040 


-302 



TO Make Home-made Tal- 
low Candles. Tallow candies 
are made in two different forms ; the mould 
candle is the easiest to make, but involves the 
expense of a mould made expressly for the 
purpose ; the dip candle requires more trouble, 
but no apparatus to make it ; the first cost, 
however, of a candle mould is fully compen- 
sated for by the superiority of the candles 
made bv it over those made bv dipping. 

632." To Make Candle" Wicks. The 
wicks are composed of cotton yarn (what is 
known as jSTo. 16 is a good size for the pur- 
pose) ; for candles of 8 to the pound, about 40 
threads, and for 6 to the pound, about 50 
threads of yam should be very loosely twisted 
together. The light from a tallow candle 
can be improved in. clearness and brilliancy by 
using small wicks which have been dipped in 
spirit of turpentine and thoroughlv dried. 

633. To Make Mould Candles. The 
wicks are secured in the centre of each mould 
by passing over thin sticks, one of which is 
laid over the top of the mould (corresponding 
to the bottom of the candles), and the other 
against the bottom points of the moulds. The 
end of the twisted wick is fastened to the 
stick on the top of the mould, and is drawn 
by a piece of hooked wire, through each 
mould in succession, leaving a loop outside 
the bottom points of the mould ; the loops 
are secured there by the bottom stick passing 
through them; the wicks are to be drawn 
tight and the last end tied to the upper stick. 
The melted tallow is then poured into the 
moulds and allowed to stand about 6 hours in 
a cool place, after which the bottom stick 
must be taken out of the loops, and the can- 
dles withdrawn from the moulds. The tallow 
should not be heated much more than is ne- 
cessary to melt it. 

634. To Make Dip Candles. Dip can 
dies are made by looping a number of sepa- 
rate wicks over a rod, and dipping them into 
very liquid taUow, until the required thick- 
ness is attained, allowing the tallow which 
adheres after each dipping to set or harden be- 
fore dipping again. Before the second dip, it 
is well to lay the wicks on a flat surface, and 
straighten them, and a suitable contrivance 
adopted for holding the rod while drying be- 
tween the dips. 

635. Tallow for Making Candles. A 
good tallow for candles consists of about -J- beef 
and f mutton suet. If required for summer use 
it will be improved by hardening according to 
receipts 'So. 639 or 640 ; it can, if needed, be 
so hardened as to have almost the appearance 
of stearine. {See No. 638.) 

636. To Make Lard Candles. To every 
8 pounds of lard add 1 ounce of nitric acid. 
Having carefuUy weighed the lard, place it 
over a slow fire, or at least merely melt it ; 
then add the acid, and mould the same as tal- 
low ; this makes a clear, beautiful candle. A 
small proportion of beeswax will make them 
harder. 

637. To Harden Tallow Candles. 
The following mixtures for hardening tallow^ 
candles are patented in England. The can- 
dles are successively and rapidly dipped, first 
in Mixture I., which consists of stearic acid, 
50 parts ; taUow, 44 parts ; camphor, 3 parts ; 



78 



TANNING. 



white resin, 2 parts ; and gum damar, 1 part. 
"When cool and hard they are dipped into Mix- 
ture II., which consists of stearic acid, 70 
parts; taUow, 24 parts; camphor, 3 parts; 
white wax, 2 parts ; gum damar, 1 part ; and 
finally into Mixture III., which is composed 
of stearic acid, 90 parts; tallow, 5 parts; 
camphor, 3 parts ; white wax, 2 parts. 

638. To Harden Tallow by Capaccio- 
ni's Process. Melt 1000 parts tallow, and 
gradually stir into it 7 parts sugar of lead 
previously dissolved in water, being careful to 
keep the mass constantly agitated during the 
process. In a few minutes diminish the heat, 
and add 15 parts incense (powdered) with 1 
part turpentine, keeping the mass constantly 
stirred as before. Then allow the mixture to 
remain warm until the insoluble parts of the 
incense settle to the bottom, usually several 
hours. By this process the sugar of lead so 
hardens the tallow that it yields a material 
very similar to stearine (stearic acid), while 
the incense improves its odor. It is said that 
tallow treated in this way, when made into 
candles, will not gutter or run. 

639. To Harden and Whiten Tallow 
for Summer Use. Grently boil the taUow 
with the addition of a little beeswax, 1 or 2 
hours a day for 2 days, in a suitable kettle, 
adding weak lye and skimming often ; cut it 
out of the pot when cold, and scrape off the 
underneath soft portion, adding fresh but 
weak lye before the second boiling. The 
third day simmer, and skim it, in water con- 
taining 1 pound of alum and 1 pound saltpe- 
tre for each 30 pounds of tallow. "WTien cold 
it can be taken off the water for use. Tallow 
thus treated will make good hard white can- 
dles for summer purposes. 

640. To Harden Tallow for Making 
Candles. Use 1 pound of alum for each 5 
pounds of tallow. Dissolve the alum in wa- 
ter, then put in the tallow and stir until both 
are melted together, then run in moulds. 
Candles made in this way will be as hard and 
white as wax. 

641. To Harden Tallow with Resin. 
To 1 pound tallow take J pound common res- 
in ; melt them together, and mould the can- 
dles the usual way. This will give a candle 
of superior lighting power, and as hard as a 
wax candle; a vast improvement upon the 
common taUow candle, in all respects except 
color. 



Tanning, when the skin of an an- 
imal, carefully deprived of hair, fat, 
and other impurities, is immersed in a dilute 
solution of tannic acid, the animal matter grad- 
ually combines with the acid as it penetrates 
inwards, forming a perfectly insoluble com- 
pound, which resists putrefaction completely ; 
this is tanned leather. In practice, lime wa- 
ter is used for cleansing and preparing the 
skin; water acidulated with oil of vitriol (sul- 
phuric acid) for raising or opening the pores ; 
and an infusion of oak bark or some other 
astringent matter for the source of the tannic 
acid. The process is necessarily a slow 
one, as dilute solutions only can be safely 
used. Skins intended for curriers, to be 
dressed for "uppers," commonly require 



about 3 weeks ; thick hides, suitable for sole- 
leather, take from 12 to 18 months. Yarious 
modifications have been introduced into the 
process, for the purpose of reducing the time 
required for tanning, but so far with only mod- 
erate success, as the leather so produced is 
spongy and inferior in quality. 

643. Morocco Leather is prepared from 
goat or sheep skins; which, after the action of 
lime water and a dung bath, are slightly 
tanned in a bath of sumach, and subsequently 
grained and dressed. 

644. Russia Leather is generally 
tanned with a decoction of willow bark, after 
which it is dyed, and curried with the empy- 
reumatic oil of the birch tree. It is this oil 
which imparts to Eussia leather its peculiar 
odor, and power of resisting mould and damp. 

645. To Tan any kind of Fur Skins. 
This will be found an excellent plan for tan- 
ning any kind of skin with the fur on. After 
having cut off the useless parts, and softened 
the skin by soaking, remove the fatty matter 
from the inside and soak it in warm water for 
an hour. N"ext, mix equal parts of borax, 
saltpetre, and glauber salts (sulphate of soda), 
in the proportion of about ^ ounce of each for 
each skin, with sufficient water to make a 
thin paste ; spread this with a brush over the 
inside of the skin, applying more on the thick- 
er parts than on the thinner : double the skin 
together, flesh side inwards, and place it in a 
cool place. After standing 24 hours, wash the 
skin clean, and apply, in the same manner as 
before, a mixture of 1 ounce sal soda, ^ ounce 
borax, and 2 ounces hard white soap, melted 
slowly together without being allowed to boil; 
fold together again and put away in a warm 
place for 24 hours. After this, dissolve 4 
ounces alum, 8 ounces salt, and 2 ounces sal- 
eratus, in sufficient hot rain water to saturate 
the skin ; when cool enough not to scald the 
hands, soak the skin in it for 12 hours ; then 
wring out and hang it up to dry. "When dry 
repeat this soaking and drying 2 or 3 times, till 
the skin is sufficiently soft. Lastly, smooth 
the inside with fine sand paper and pumice 
stone. 

646. To Tan Sheep^s Pelts with the 
Wool On. "Wash the pelts in warm water, 
and remove all fleshy matter from the inner 
surface ; then clean the wool with soft soap, 
and wash clean. When the pelt is perfectly 
free from all fatty and oily matter, apply the 
following mixture to the flesh side, viz.: For 
each pelt take common salt and ground alum, 
J pound each, and ^ ounce borax; dissolve 
the whole in 1 quart hot water, and when 
sufficiently cool to bear the hand, add rye 
meal to make it like thick paste, and spread 
the mixture on the flesh side of the pelt. 
Fold the pelt lengthwise, and let it remain 
2 weeks in an airy and shady place ; then re- 
move the paste from the surface, wash, and 
dry. "When nearly dry, scrape the flesh side 
with a crescent-shaped knife. The softness of 
the pelt depends much on the amount of 
working it receives. 

647. To Prepare Sheep Skins for 
Mats. Make a strong lather with hot water, 
and let it stand till cold ; wash the fresh skin 
in it, carefully squeezing out all the dirt Irom 
the wool ; wash it in cold water till all the 
soap is taken out. Dissolve a pound each 



TAXXIXG 



79 



salt and alum in 2 gallons hot water, and put 
the skin into a tub sufficient to cover it ; let 
it soak for 12 hours, and hang it over a pole 
to drain. When well drained, stretch it care- 
fully on a board to dry, and stretch several 
times while drying. Before it is quite dry, 
sprinkle on the flesh side 1 ounce each of 
finely pulverized alum and saltpetre, rubbing 
it in well. Try if the wool be firm on the 
skin ; if not, let it remain a day or two, then 
rub again with alum ; fold the flesh sides to- 
gether and hang in the shade for 2 or 3 days, 
turning them over each day till quite dry. 
Scrape the flesh side with a blunt knife, and 
rub it with pumice or rotten stone. Tery 
beautiful mittens can be made of lamb skins 
prepared in this way. 

648. To Tan Muskrat Skins with 
the Fur On. First wash the hide in warm 
water, and remove all fatty and fleshy matter. 
Then soak it in a liquor prepared as follows : 
To 10 gallons cold soft water add 8 quarts 
wheat bran, ^ pint old soap, 1 ounce borax ; 
by adding 2 ounces sulphuric acid the soaking 
may be done in one-half the time. If the hides 
have not been salted, add 1 pint salt. Green 
hides should not be soaked more than 8 or 10 
hours. Dry ones should soak till very soft. 
For tan liquor, to 10 gallons warm soft water 
add -J bushel bran ; stir well and let stand in 
a warm room till it femients. Then add 
slowly 2^ pounds sulphuric acid ; stir all the 
whUe. Muskrat hides should remain in about 
4 hours ; then take out and rub with a flesh- 
ing knife — (an old chopping knife with the 
edge taken off will do.) Then work it over a 
beam until entirely dry. 

649. To Cure Rabbit Skins. Lay 
the skin on a smooth board, the fur side un- 
dermost, and fasten it down with tinned 
tacks. Wash it over first with a solution of 
salt ; then dissolve 2^ ounces alum in 1 pint 
of warm water, and with a sponge dipped in 
this solution, moisten the surface all over ; re- 
peat this every now and then for three days ; 
when the skin is quite dry, take out the tacks, 
and rolling it loosely the long way, the hair 
inside, draw it quickly backwards and for- 
wards through a large smooth ring, until it is 
quite soft, then roll it in the contrary way of 
the skin, and repeat the operation. Skins 
prepared thus are useful for many domestic 
purposes. 

650. To Clean Furs. Furs may be 
cleaned as follows : — Strip the fur articles of 
theu* stuffing and binding, and lay them as 
much as possible in a flat position. They must 
then be subjected to a very brisk brushing, 
with a stiff clothes brush; after this, any 
moth-eaten parts must be cut out, and be 
neatly replaced by new bits of fur to match. 

651. To Clean Dark Furs. Sable, 
chinchilla, squiri'el, fitch, &c., should be 
treated as follows : Warm a quantity of 
new bran in a pan, taking care that it does 
not bum, to prevent which it must be actively 
stirred. When well warmed, nib it thorough- 
ly into the fm* with the hand. Repeat this 
two or three times ; then shake the fur, and 
give it another sharp brushing until free from 
dust. 

652. To Clean Light Furs. White 
furs, ermine, &c., may be cleaned as foUows : 
Lay the fur on a table, and rub it well with 



bran made moist with warm water ; rub until 
quite dry, and afterwards with dry bran. 
The wet bran should be put on with flannel, 
and the dry with a piece of book-muslin. 
The light furs, in addition to the above, 
should be well rubbed with magnesia, or a 
piece of book-muslin, after the bran process. 
Or dry flour may be used instead of wet bran. 
Ermine takes longer than Miuevar to clean. 
They should be rubbed against the way of 
the fur. 

653. To Improve Furs by Stretch- 
ing. Furs are usually much improved by 
stretching, which may be managed as follows: 
To 1 pint of soft water add 3 ounces salt ; dis- 
solve ; with this solution sponge the inside of 
the skin (taking care not to wet the fur) un- 
til it becomes thoroughly saturated ; then lay 
it carefully on a board with the fur side down- 
wards, in its natural disposition ; then stretch 
as much as it will bear, and to the required 
shape, and fasten with small tacks. The dry- 
ing may be quickened by placing the skin a 
little distance from the fire or stove. 

654. To Preserve Furs and Woolen 
Clothing from Moth. Moths deposit their 
eggs in the early spring. This, therefore, is 
the time to put away furs and woolens for 
the summer. It is not the moth, but the 
maggot of the moth that does the mischief 
with furs and woolens. To effectually pre- 
serve them from the ravages of these insects, 
thoroughly beat the furs with a thin rattan, 
and air them for several hours, then carefully 
comb them with a clean comb, wrap them up 
in newspapers, perfectly tight, and put them 
away in a thoroughly tight chest lined with 
tin, or cedar wood. Take them out and ex- 
amine them in the sun at least once a month, 
thoroughly beating them. This, indeed, is 
the secret of the fur-dealers in preserving 
their stock. Camphor, which is so much used 
to preserve furs, impairs thek beauty by turn- 
ing them light. The printing ink on the 
newspapers is just as effectual as camphor, 
being very distasteful to the moth. The 
above method may also be adopted to pre- 
serve feathers, and all kinds of woolen cloth- 
ing, omitting, of course, the combing; cam- 
phor may be sprinkled among the woolens. 

655. To Clean Ostrich Feathers. 
Cut some white curd soap in small pieces, 
pour boiling water on them, and add a little 
pearlash. When the soap is quite dissolved, 
and the mixture cool enough for the hand to 
bear, plunge the feathers into it, draw the 
feathers through the hand till the dirt appears 
squeezed out of them, pass them through a 
clean lather with some blue in it, then rinse 
in cold water with blue to give them a good 
color. Beat them against the hand to shake 
off the water, and dry by shaking them near 
a fire. When perfectly dry, curl each fibre 
separately with a blunt knife or ivory paper- 
folder. 

656. To Clean Grebe. Carefully take 
out the lining, and wash it in the same way 
as directed for the ostrich feathers. They 
must not be shaken until quite dry, and any 
rent in the skin must be repaired before mak- 
ing up again. 

657. To Clean Swansdown. White 
swansdown may be washed in soap and 
water ; after washiag, shake it out, and when 



80 



IMITATION LIQUORS. 



the down is somewhat raised, shake it before 
a clear fire to dry. 

658. To Ciirl Feathers. Heat them 
slightly before the fire, then stroke them with 
the back of a knife, and they will cnrl. 

659. To Cleanse Feathers from An- 
imal Oil. Mix well with 1 gallon clear water, 
1 pound quicklime ; and, when the lime is pre- 
cipitated in fine powder, pour off the clear 
lime-water for use. Put the feathers to be 
cleaned in a tub, and add to them a sufficient 
quantity of the clear lime-water to cover them 
about 3 inches. The feathers, when thor- 
oughly moistened, will sink down, and should 
remain in the lime-water for 3 or 4 days ; after 
which, the foul liquor should be separated. 

660. To Deodorize Skunk Skins, 
or articles of clothing scented, hold them 
over a fire of red cedar boughs, and sprinkle 
with chloride of lime ; or, wrap them in green 
hemlock boughs, when they are to be had, 
and in 24 hours they will be deodorized. 

661. To Stiffen Bristles. These are 
usually stiffened by immersing for a short 
time in cold alum water. 

662. To Dye Bristles. Bristles are 
dyed by steeping them for a short time in 
any of the common dyes used for cotton or 
wool. 



Imitation Liquors. The n- 
quors generally met with for sale and 
consumption are, it is well known, rarely 
genuine ; and even if genuine, are often adul- 
terated with water and various deleterious 
compounds. The imitations of liquor inno- 
cently imbibed by the unsuspecting as whole- 
some stimulants, contain, too freqently, combi- 
nations that are most hurtful, if not actually 
poisonous. Eeceipts are here given for ma- 
king imitation liquors, which are at least 
as wholesome as genuine spirits, and contain 
no ingredient that can hurt the system more 
than alcohol itself does. They are the re- 
ceipts furnished by a practical French chemist, 
who has made this business a specialty for 
some thirty years. 

664. Prune Flavoring for Liquors. 
Mash 25 pounds prunes, infuse for 15 days 
with 6 gallons proof spirit, stirring it every 
day ; press and filter. 

665. Raisin Flavoring for Liquors. 
Subject 25 pounds mashed raisins to the same 
process as the prunes in the last receipt. 

666. St. John's Bread Flavoring for 
Liquors. Cut 50 pounds St. John's bread 
into small pieces. Infuse for 15 days with 12 
gallons proof spirits, stirring every day; 
filter. 

667. Orange Peel Flavoring for Li- 
quors. Steep 1 pound orange peel in 1 gal- 
lon 95 per cent, alcohol for 15 days ; filter. 

668. Vanilla Flavoring for Liquors. 
Siice 1 drachm vanilla in small pieces ; infuse 
for 20 days in 1 pint 95 per cent, alcohol; 
filter. 

669. Orris Root Flavoring for Li- 
quors. Infuse 2 ounces powdered orris root 
for 20 davs in 1 quart 95 per cent, alcohol, and 
filter. 

670. Sassafras Flavoring for Liquors. 
Granulate i pound sassafras bark, and infuse 



it in ^ gallon 95 per cent, alcohol for 20 days j 
filter. 

671. Hickory Nut Flavoring for Li- 
quors. Crush 1 bushel hickory nuts, aud in- 
fuse for 1 month in 12 gallons 95 per cent, 
alcohol ; strain and filter. 

672. Flavoring Compound for Bran- 
dy. Mash 25 pounds raisins, 12 pounds 
prunes, 6 pounds figs, and 1 pineapple sliced ; 
infuse for 15 days in 20 gallons proof spirits, 
stirring every day, and then filter. 

673. Coffee Flavoring for Liquors. 
Infuse 1 pound ground roasted coffee in 1 gal- 
lon 95 per cent, alcohol. This is used in com- 
bination with other flavors for brandy. 

674. Peach Flavoring for Whiskey. 
Steep for 1 month, 10 gallons dried peaches, 
10 gallons oak saw-dust, and 5 pounds black 
tea in 40 gaUons proof spirits ; strain and 
filter. 

675. How to Prepare Essence of 
Cognac. Take 1 ounce oil cognac — the green 
oil is the best ; put it in ^ gallon 95 per cent, 
spirits. Cork it up tight, shake it frequently 
for about 3 days ; then add 2 ounces strong 
ammonia. Let it stand 3 days longer ; then 
place in a stone jar that wiYl contain about 3 
gallons, 1 pound fine black tea, 2 pounds 
prunes, having first mashed the prunes and 
tjroken the kernels. Pour on them 1 gallon 
spirits 20 above proof. Cover it close, and let 
it stand 8 days. Filter the liquor, and mix 
with that containing the oil and ammonia. 
Bottle it for use. This makes the best flavor- 
ing known for manufacturing brandies, or for' 

adding to such cordials, syrups, <fec., as re- 
quire a fine brandy flavor. {Monzert.) 

676. To Imitate Brandy with Es- 
sence of Cognac. Take 1 pint essence of 
cognac {see No. 67.5), 15 gallons pure spirits 
(very fine) 20 per cent, above proof, ^ pint 
plain white syrup. Color with caramel. 

677. Simple Test for Alcohol in Oil 
of Cognac. Take a half ounce phial or test 
tube, and fill it exactly half full of oil of cog- 
nac; then fill up the remaining space with 
water, and shake it well. The alcohol, if 
there be any present, having a much greater 
affinity for water than for the oil, will leave 
the oil and combine with the water ; denot- 
ing, by the decrease in the bulk of the oil. or 
the increase in that of the water, the quantity 
of alcohol present. Other tests for essential 
oils will be found under its heading. {See 
Index. ) 

678. Highly Flavored Domestic 
Brandy. To 40 gallons French proof spmts, 
add 2 quarts raisin flavoring {see No. 665), 2 
quarts prune flavoring (see No. 664), 2 quarts 
St. John's bread flavoring (see No. 666), 1 
gallon best sherry wine, 2 drachms oil of 
cognac and 20 drops oil of bitter almonds, 
both dissolved in a little 95 per cent, alcohol ; 
1 gallon Jamaica rum (or |- ounce Jamaica 
rum essence), and 2 pints wine vinegar. Ten 
gallons of this mixture, mixed with 30 gallons 
French spirits, make an excellent domestic 
brandy, and 1 pound of glycerine gives it age. 

679. Imitation Cognac Brandy. To 
36 gallons French proof spirits, add 4 gallons 
Pellevoisin or Marette cognac, i gallon best 
sherry or Madeira wine, and 20 drops oil of 
cognac, dissolved in a little 95 per cent, alco- 
hol. Then pour 2 quarts boiling water over 3 



IMITATl ON LIQUORS. 



81 



ounces black tea ; when cold, filter through 
flannel, and add a little maraschino ; mix this 
with the other ingredients, and color the whole 
to suit, with caramel. {See No. 694.) 

Another excellent formula is as follows : 
Dissolve 20 drops oil of cognac and 15 drops 
oil of bitter almonds in a little 95 per cent. 
aiCohol; add it to 40 gallons 60 per cent. 
French spirit, with 2 pints tincture of raisin, 
2 pints tincture of prunes, 3 pints best Jamai- 
ca rum, 3 pints best sheny wine, and ^ ounce 
acetic ether. Color with caramel. 

680. Imitation Brandy. Take 40 gal- 
lona French spirit ; add to it 1 pint tincture of 
raisins {see No. 665), 1 quart prune flavoring 
{see No. 664), ^ gallon best sherry or Madeira 
wine, and 1 pint wine vinegar. Then add 1 
drachm oil of cognac, 12 drops oil of bitter 
almonds, i to -i- drachm tannin powder, each 
dissolved separately in 95 per cent, alcohol. 
Color to suit with caramel. {See No. 694.) 

681. Imitation French. Brandy. To 
40 gallons French proof spirit, add 1 quart 
tincture of orris root {see No. 669), 1 pint 
vanilla flavoring {see No. 668), ^ gallon best 
sherry or Madeira wine, and 1 pint wine vin- 
egar. Dissolve separately, 1 drachm oil of 
cognac and 12 drops oil of bitter almonds, 
each in a little 95 per cent, alcohol, and add 
them to the mixture, coloring the whole to 
suit with caramel. {See No. 694.) 

682. Imitation Pale Brandy. Infuse 
1 drachm star-anise (breaking the star only) 
for 8 hours in ^ pint 95 per cent, alcohol, and 
filter; add this to 40 gallons proof spirits; 
then add | gallon best Jamaica rum, and 1 
pint of the best raspberry syrup. Dissolve 1 
drachm oil of cognac, and 12 drops oil of bit- 
ter almonds, separately, in a little 95 per cent, 
alcohol, and mix them with the whole. 

683. Imitation Bourbon Whiskey. 
Mix together 40 gallons proof spirits, ^ gallon 
peach flavoring {see No. 674), -^ gallon hicko- 
ry nut flavoring {see No. 671), -J gallon highly 
flavored brandy {see No, 678), 1 pint wine 
vinegar, and 1 pint white glycerine. Add to 
these 12 drops oil of cognac dissolved in 95 
per cent, alcohol, and color with caramel. 
iSeeNo. 694.) 

Or : 36 gallons proof spirits, 4 gallons high- 
ly flavored proof rye whiskey, 1 gallon do- 
mestic brandy {see No. 680), together with the 
same proportions of vinegar, glycerine, and 
oil of cognac, as before. 

684. Imitation Bourbon Whiskey. 
To 36 gallons proof spirits, add 4 gallons 
highly flavored proof Bourbon, 1 gallon New 
England rum, | gallon sweet Catawba wine 
(or 1 quart sherry wine), and 1 pound white 
glycerine. Color to suit with caramel. {See 
No. 694.) 

685. Imitation Bourbon Whiskey. 
36 gallons proof spirit, 4 gallons highly fla- 
vored proof Bourbon, 1 gallon malt whiskey, 
1 pint wine vinegar, 1 pint syrup, and 12 
drops oil of cognac dissolved in 95 per cent, 
alcohol. Color with caramel. {See No. 69i.) 

686. Imitation Bourbon Whiskey. 
To 40 gallons proof spirit, add 1 gallon hick- 
ory flavor {see No. 671), 1 gallon domestic 
brandy {see No. 680), 1 pint wine vinegar, 
and 1 pound white glycerine, with 12 drops 
oil of cognac dissolved in 95 per cent, alcohol, 
and caramel {see No. 694) sufficient to color. 



687. Imitation Copper - Distilled 
Bourbon Whiskey. Dissolve 1 di-achm 
sulphate of copper in i pint water, filter, and 
add it to 40 gallons proof spirit, with 1 gal- 
lon peach flavor {see No. 674), 1 gallon 
brandy flavor {see No. 672), 1 pint wine vine- 
gar, 1 pound white glycerine, and 12 drops 
oil of cognac dissolved in 95 per cent, alcohol. 
Color with caramel. {See No. 694.) 

688. Imitation Rye Whiskey. To 40 
gallons proof spirit, add 2 gallons peach fla- 
voring {See No. 674), 1 pint white vinegar, 
and 12 drops oil of cognac in 95 per cent, 
alcohol. Color with caramel. {See No. 694.) 

689. Imitation Sweet Rye Whiskey, 
30 gallons proof spirit, 10 gallons proof ryo 
whiskey, and 1 gallon raisin flavor {see No, 
665), colored with sufficient caramel. {SeS' 
No. 694). 

690. Imitation Irish Whiskey. 36 
gallons French spirits 20 above proof, 4 gal- 
lons Scotch (Ramsay) whiskey, 3 pints best! 
sherry wine, 2 pints syrup, and 10 drops sas- 
safras flavor. {See No. 670.) 

691. Imitation Scotch Whiskey. 36 
gallons French spirits 20 above proof, 4 gal- 
lons Scotch whiskey, and 1 quart syrup. 

692. To Impart a Smoky flavor to 
Whiskey. The simplest way to impart this 
peculiar flavor to whiskey is by preparing the 
barrel. Insert securely a large sheet-iron 
funnel into the bung-hole of a dry 40-gallon 
barrel ; provide a small open furnace, contain- 
ing a charcoal fire ; put 1 pound of birch bark 
on thiB fire, and support the barrel, with its 
funnel downwards, over the furnace, so that 
the funnel, which should be considerably wider- 
than the furnace, will receive the smoke from 
the bark. When the bark ceases smoking,, 
remove the funnel and bung the barrel up- 
tight. After it has stood 24 hours, put the 
spirit in the barrel, and keep it there for 36 
hom-s, frequently rolling the barrel, in order 
that the spirits may be thoroughly impreg- 
nated with the smoke and smoky deposit on 
the inside of the barrel. The spirits will then 
be found to have acquired the desired flavor. 
Creosote, diluted with alcohol, is sometimes 
used to impart the smoky flavor to spirits. 

693. To Give the Appearance of Age 
to Brandy Barrels, Dissolve in 3 gallons 
water, 3 pounds sulphuric acid and 1 poaind 
sulphate of iron. Wash the barrels with it 
on the outside. 

694. To Make Caramel. Dissolve 7 
pounds crushed sugar in 1 pint water ; boil it 
in a 5-gallon copper kettle, stirring occasion- 
ally until it gets brown ; then reduce the fire 
and let the sugar bum until the smoke makes 
the eyes water. When a few drops, let fall 
into a tumbler of cold water, sink to the bottom 
and harden sufficiently to crack, it is done. 
Then pour on it, by degrees, about 2 quarts 
warm water, stirring all the time. When well 
mixed, filter it hot through a coarse flannel 
filter. Some use lime-water to dissolve the 
burnt sugar. Care must be taken not to over- 
burn it, as a greater quantity is thereby ren- 
dered insoluble. The heat should not exceed 
430°, nor be under 400° Fahr. The process for 
nice experiments is best conducted in a bath 
of melted tin, to which a little bismuth hai 
been added, to reduce its melting point ta 
about 435° ; a little powdered resin or char- 



IMITATION LIQUORS. 



coal, or a little oil, being put upon the surface 
of the metal, to prevent oxidation. 

695. To Plaster Brandy Pipes. First 
notch over the bottom of the casks with a 
hatchet or adze ; then, for the bottom of a i 
pipe mix i gallon plaster with 1 gallon water, 
and pour it on ; while the plaster is setting, 
tap the cask gently with a mallet, in order 
that the plaster may penetrate into every 
crevice. When the plaster is fully set, wash 
it over with a wet sponge. If you wish to 
color the plaster, add a little Yenice red. 

696. Wax Putty for Leaky Casks, 
Bungs, &c. Melt 8 pounds yellow wax and 
12 pounds solid turpentine over a slow fire; 
add 4 pounds tallow ; and, when thoroughly 
mixed, remove the whole to a distance from 
the fire and stir in 2 pounds spirits of turpen- 
tine, and let it cool. 

697. Imitation Schiedam Gin. Dis- 
solve 3i drachms oil of juniper in sufficient 
95 per cent, alcohol to make a clear liquid ; 
=add it to 40 gallons French spirits 10 above 
proof, with 8 ounces orange peel flavoring 
{see No. 667), 1 quart syrup, and 30 drops oil 
.of sweet fennel. 

698. Imitation Old Tom London Gin. 
Dissolve in 1 quart 95 per cent, alcohol, 1 
drachm oil of coriander, 1 drachm oil of cedar, 
i drachm oil of bitter almonds, ^ drachm oil 
of angelica, and ^ drachm oil of sweet fennel ; 
add it to 40 gallons French spirit 10 above 
proof, with 1 pint orange-flower water, 1 quart 
syrup, and 1 drachm oil of juniper dissolved in 
sufficient 95 per cent, alcohol to be clear. 

699. Imitation Santa Cruz Rum. 35 
gallons iSTew England rum, 5 gallons Santa 
Cruz rum, and 1 drachm vanilla flavoring. 
(See No. 668.) 

700. Imitation Batavia Arrack. 35 
gallons French spirit (rice spirit is preferable), 
5 gallons Batavia arrack, | ounce balsam of 
tolu, and ^ ounce tincture of flowers of ben- 
zoin. 

701. Imitation Batavia Arrack. To 
12 gallons pale rum add 2 ounces flowers of 
benzoin, 1-^ ounces balsam of tolu, 1 sliced 
pineapple. Digest with occasional agitation 
for a month; then add i pint raw milk. 
Agitate well for 15 minutes, and rack in a 

.week. A fine imitation. 

702. Imitation Jamaica Rum. 20 
gallons spirit 10 above proof, 20 gallons JSTew 
England rum 10 above proof, i pound Ja- 
maica rum essence, 1 gallon St. John's bread 
flavoring (see No. 686), and 1 pound white 
glycerine. Color to suit with caramel. (See 
2^0. 694.) Or: — 40 gallons spirit 10 above 
proof, 1 pound Jamaica rum essence, 10 drops 
oil of cloves, 1 gallon St. John's bread flavor- 
ing (sec No. 666), and 1 pound white glycerine. 
If desired, there may be added 1 ounce gum 
kino and i drachm oil of caraway, each dis- 
j^olved in 2 ounces 95 per cent, alcohol. 

703. To Make Spirit Finings. Pul- 
verize 1 pound ordinary crystals of alum, 
divide into 12 equal portions, and put up in 
blue papers marked ISTo 1. 'Next take 6 ounces 
carbonate (the ordinary sesquicarbonate) of 
6oda, divide it into 12 parts and put them up 
in white papers marked No. 2. In place of 
the 6 ounces carbonate of soda, 4 ounces dry 
salt of tartar may be substituted, but the 
wlute papers containing this latter substance 



must be kept in a dry, well corked bottle or 
jar. 

704. To Clarify Gin or Cordials. To 

clarify from 30 to 36 gallons gin, dissolve the 
contents of one of the blue papers, as prepared 
in No 703, in about a pint of hot water, and 
stir it into the liquor thoroughly. Then dis- 
solve the contents of one of the white papers 
in about -^' pint hot water, and stir well into 
the liquor ; bung the cask close, and let the 
whole remain till the next dav. t 

705. To Blanch Gin or other White 
Liquor, By using double the quantity of 
finings, that Is, 2 of each of the powders, as 
laid down in the foregoing receipt, the liquor 
will be blanched as well as clarified. It is 
well to recollect, however, that the more fin- 
ings are employed, the greater the risk of in- 
juring the liquor, which may have a tendency 
to become flat when '^on draught." 

706. Finings for Gin. To 100 gallons 
gin, take 4 ounces roche alum, and put it into 
1 pint of pure water ; boil it until it is dis- 
solved, then gradually add 4 ounces salts of 
tartar ; when nearly cold put it into the gin, 
and stir it well with a staff" for 10 minutes. 
The liquor must not be covered until it is 
fine; when this is accomplished, cover it up 
tight to prevent it from losing its strength. 

707. To Remove the Blackness from 
Gin. Some gin has a particular blackness ; 
to remove which, take 1 ounce pulverized 
chalk and 2 or 3 ounces isinglass, dissolved ; 
put this into the gin and it will become trans- 
parent. The above is enough for 50 gallons. 
The blackness which gin sometimes contracts 
by coming in contact with iron, may also be 
carried down by putting a solution of 2 ounces 
isinglass and 1 quart skimmed milk into the 
spirit. "When the color is very black, which 
wiU happen by merely an iron nail having 
fallen into the liquor, there is no remedy but 
to have the liquor distilled over again. 

708. To Clarify Stained Gin. When 
gin has once become much stained, the only 
remedy is to re-distill it; when it is only 
slightly stained the addition of a few pounds 
acetic acid to a pipe or butt, 1 or 2 spoonfuls 
to a gallon, or a few drops to a decanterful, 
will usually decolor it. 

709. Brandy Filter. "WTien necessary 
to filter an imitation brandy, an excellent 
utensil may be used for that purpose which 
has already been described. (See No. 17, fg. 
5. ) It will, however, be necessary to substi- 
tute cotton wadding in place of the charcoal. 

710. To Make Rum Punch. Dissolve 
in 1 pint 95 per cent, alcohol, 3 drachms oil of 
lemon, and ^ drachm oil of cloves ; infuse 3 
ounces ground allspice for 10 days in 1 quart 
95 per cent, alcohol, and filter it. Mix these 
with 18 gallons spirit 30 above proof, 2 gal- 
lons Jamaica rum, and 1 pound Jamaica rum 
essence (or 20 gallons ISTew England rum 30 
over proof and i pound Jamaica rum essence). 
Next add 2^ pounds tartaric acid dissolved in 
2^ gallons water, and 18 gallons syrup made 
of 108 pounds white sugar. Color with cara- 
mel. (See No. 694.) 

711. To Make "Wine Punch. Dis- 
solve 2i drachms oil of lemons and ^ drachm 
oil of cloves in 95 per cent, alcohol ; make an 
infusion of 3 ounces ground allspice, as in last 
receipt; add these to 10 gallons proof spirit^ 



CHAMPA GXE. 



83 



10 gallons Marsala or Cataloma wine, 10 gal- 
lons syrup made of 35 pounds white sugar, 
and i pound tartaric acid. If not red enough, 
add a little cherry juice. Filter. 

712. To Make Wine Piincli. To 10 
gallons proof spirit^ add 10 gallons Marsala 
or Catalonia wine. Take 10 gallons syrup 
made of 35 pounds sugar ; peel the rind, thinly, 
of 120 lemons ; bring the syrup to a boil, and 
simmer the lemon rinds in it for ^ hour or 
more, then strain it through a fine flannel. 
Mix all the above with the juice of the lemons. 
Instead of boiling the lemon peel in the syrup, 
it may be infused for 5 or 6 days in 95 per 
cent, alcohol. The color can be deepened 
with cherry juice. Brandy, rum, whiskey and 
arrack punch may be made as above, substi- 
tuting the liquor for the wine and spirits. 



r^ hampagne. The process of ma- 
V-yidng American and imitation French 
champagne is one requuing great care, espe- 
cially in producing a not only clear, but 
bright wine. Full directions are given below 
for making the necessary syrup, mixing the 
ingredients, fining, filtering and gassing ; in- 
cluding a number of receipts for different 
kinds of champagne. A careful attention to 
the instructions laid down will produce wines 
which win compare favorably with the best 
genuine importations. 

714. To Make a Filter for Filtering 
Wines. A filter for wines is usually made 
■ of fslt, shaped like a cone or sugar loaf; those 
without any seam are the best. A lining of 
paper pulp is prepared in the following man- 
gier : Tear from 2 to 4 sheets filtering paper 
into small pieces and put it into a pail ; pour 
over it a little boiling water, sufficient, by 
thorough beating, to form a fine smooth 
paste; then add sufficient water to fill the 
filter. Pour this quickly into the filter, and, 
5 minutes after the water has drained through, 
fill up with the wine to be filtered, taking 
care to keep the filter always fuU. 

715. To Make Syrup for Champagne 
"Wine. To 25 pounds white sugar, add 2 
gallons water and the whites of 4 eggs ; stir 
until the sugar is dissolved. Let the whole 
simmer to the candy degree ; then strain it 
throusrh a bag made of fine flannel. 

716. To Prepare Isinglass for Fin- 
ing Wines. Cut up some isinglass (it must 
be of the very best quality), and put it in a jar, 
with just enough wine or water to cover it ; 
add daily as much of the wine or water as has 
been absorbed by the isinglass. In 6 or 8 
days it should be completely dissolved, form- 
ing a thick fluid mass. Squeeze it through a 
linen cloth and put it into a bottle, adding 4 
or 5 per cent, of 95 per cent, alcohol to make 
it keep. For 40 gallons wine to be fined, 
)take 1 wine-glassful of dissolved isinglass, add 
,a little wine and a pinch of salt, and beat to a 
froth with a whisk, adding by degrees suffi- 
cient wine to make the mixture up to ^ gal- 
lon. When foaming, pour it slowly into'the 
wine, stirring till all the fining is incorporated 
with the wine. Isinglass thus prepared and 
used wiU precipitate completely ; and, after a 
few days, the wine will be bright. Too much j 
care cannot be taken ra the preparation of | 



fining, as even the finest isinglass contains 
fibrous matter which dissolves with difficulty ; 
this is very apt to remain suspended in the 
wine, and is not visible until developed, after 
bottling, by the gas with which the wine is 
afterwards charged. 

717. To Prepare Champagne Wine 
for Charging. Put the wine used to make 
the champagne into a cask, add the brandy 
spirit, the aroma or flavoring, and the syrup, 
and stir for 10 minutes. Every day for 4 days 
draw off 15 or 20 gallons of the mixture and 
pour it in again; let it rest 4 days more, then 
add the fining, stir for 10 minutes, and bung 
up the cask. In 3 or 4 days, if bright, draw 
off slowly, so as not to disturb the lees. 
Filter (see No. 714), and it is ready for the 
fountain of the gassing apparatus. 

718. To Charge Champagne with 
Gas. Matthews' apparatus is the one usually 
adopted in the United States for generating 
the gas and charging champagne wine. The 
fountains, tubes, and valves are silver-lined, 
and the machiues are adapted for pint and 
quart bottles. The following is a proper 
charge for a ISTo. 2 apparatus with 2 fountains : 
Charge the generator with 9 gallons water, 6 
gallons ground marble, and 3 gallons sulphuric 
acid ; put 2 gallons water in the gas washer, 
and 20 gallons wine in each of the foimtains. 
For a warm climate, a pressure of 70 pounds 
to the square inch is sufficient. "WTien the 
wine is made in winter for immediate sale, 
the pressure may be increased to 80 pounds. 
Grenuine champagne has an average pressure 
of 50 pounds. 

719. Catawba Champagne. Take 40 
gallons Catawba wine; -^ gallon old cognac 
brandy; and 4 gallons syrup made of 30 
pounds sugar and 2 gallons water according 
to ]Sro. 715 ; — or, 38 gallons Catawba wine ; 2 
gallons Angelica wine, and 4 gallons syrup as 
above. A very little tincture vanilla added 
to either of these makes a fine bouquet. 

720. CaUfornia Champagne. 40 gal- 
lons California wine ; 1 quart raspberry syrup 
{see JSo. 1372); 4 gallons syrup made of 25 
pounds sugar and 2 gallons water (see No. 
715); and 4 gallons water. Or: 20 gallons 
California wine ; 20 gallons Sauteme or white 
Bordeaux vnne ; i gallon old cognac brandy ; 
with 4 gallons syrup as before. Add to these 
10 per cent, of water. 

731. Scuppernong Champagne. 40 
gallons Scuppernong wine ; ^ gallon old cog- 
nac brandy ; and 3 gallons syrup made of 20 
pounds sugar (see No. 715) and 2 gallons 
water. 

722. Imitation French Champagne. 
40 gallons white Bordeaux wine; 1 gallon 
muscat wine; i gallon old cognac brandy; 
and 4 gallons syrup made of 25 pounds sugar 
and 2 gallons water. (See No. 715). In this 
receipt a little tincture of vanilla, or a small 
bottle of bouquet venatique, may be used in- 
stead of the muscat wine. They may be 
omitted altogether if aroma is not desired. 

723. Cheap Champagne. 13 gallons 
California wine ; 13 gallons white Bordeaux 
wine ; 13 gallons water ; 1 gallon 95 per cent. 
French spirit ; 1 quart raspberry syrup (see 
No. 1372) ; and 4 gallons syrup made of 25 
pounds sugar and 2 gallons water. (See No. 
715.) Or: 30 gallons Catawba wine ; 20 gal' 



84. 



HOME-MADE WINES. 



Ions water ; 2 gallons Angelica wine ; 2 gallons 
95 per cent. French spirit, and 4 gallons 
synip as before. 

724. Cheap Champagne. 20 gallons 
white Bordeaux wine ; 20 gallons German or 
Hungarian wine ; 20 gallons water ; 2 gallons 
95 per cent. French spirit; and 6 gallons 
syrup made of 35 pounds sugar and 3 gallons 
water. {See No. 715.) 

725. The Use of Glycerine in Wine. 
Grlycerine differs from sugar in not fermenting 
or taking any active part in the process of 
fermentation. It can, therefore, be made use 
of atter fermentation, to impart any required 
degree of sweetness to wine, without the risk 
of further fermentation, as is the case with 
sugar when used for this pm-pose ; it is said 
that it can be added with perfect safety to 
even a young or new wine, as soon as it has 
become clear. It is absolutely necessary that 
the glycerine should be chemically pure ; care 
is consequently to be taken in purchasing it, 
as there are few articles in the market which 
are liable to contain so many impurities. {See 
No. 1151.) The proportion of glycerine 
should be from 1 to 3 gallons for 100 gallons 
of wine, according to the quality of the latter. 
If the wine is perfectly clear before adding 
the glycerine it will be ready for bottling at 
once. It is best to mix the glycerine first 
with an equal quantity of the wine, and then 
add, the mixture to the remainder of the 
wine. 

726. Electricity as an Agent for im- 
proving "Whiskey and "Wines. From ex- 
periments made on a large scale, it has been 
found that electricity in any form, either as a 
regular current or a succession of discharges, 
renders wine or whiskey mellow and matm'e. 
It is supposed that the bitartrate of potassa is 
decomposed, setting free potash and tartaric 
acid: the former tending to neutralize the 
acids of the wine ; and the tartaric acid, react- 
ing upon the fatty matters present, favors the 
formation of the ethers which constitute the 
bouquet of the wine. It is probable, also, 
that a small quantity of the water is decom- 
posed, setting free oxygen, which forms, with 
some of the constituents of the wine, new 
compounds peculiar to old wines. {See No. 
6295.) 



Home-Made "Wines. The 
various processes in domestic wine- 
making resemble those employed for foreign 
wine, and depend upon the same principles. 
The fruit should be preferably gathered in fine 
weather, and not till it has arrived at a proper 
state of maturity, as evinced by its flavor 
when tasted ; for if it be employed while un- 
ripe, the wine will be harsh, disagreeable, 
and unwholesome, and a larger quantity of 
^ sugar and spirit will be required to render it 
' palatable. The common practice of employ- 
ing unripe gooseberries for the manufacture of 
wine arises from a total ignorance of the 
scientific principles of wine-making. On the 
other hand, if fruit be employed too ripe, the 
wine is apt to be inferior, and deficient in the 
flavor of the fruit. The fruit being gathered, 
it next undergoes the operation of picking, 
for the purpose of removing the stalks and 



unripe or damaged portion. It is next placed 
in a tub, and well bruised. Raisins are 
commonly permitted to soak about 24 hours 
previously to bruising them, or they may be 
advantageously bruised or minced in the dry 
state. The. bruised fruit is then put into a 
vat or vessel with a guard or strainer placed 
over the tap-hole, to keep back the husks and 
seeds of the fruit when the must or juice is 
drawn off. The water is now added, and the 
whole macerated for 30 or 40 hours, more or 
less ; during which time it is frequently stirred 
up with a suitable wooden stirrer. The liquid 
portion is next drawn off, and the residua- 
ry pulp is placed in hair bags and undergoes 
the operation of pressing, to expel the fluid 
it contains. The sugar, tartar, &c. (in very fine 
powder, or in solution), are now added to the 
mixed liquor, and the whole is . well stirred. 
The temperature being suitable (generally 
from 75° to 85° Fahr.), the vinous fermenta- 
tion soon commences, when the liquor is fre- 
quently skimmed (if necessary) and well 
stirred up, and, after 3 or 4 days of this treat- 
ment, it is run into casks, which should be 
quite filled, and left open at the bung-hole. 
In about a week the flavoring ingredients, in 
the state of coarse powder, are commonly 
added, and well stin-ed in, and in about 
another week, depending upon the state of 
the fermentation and the attenuation of the 
must, the brandy or spirit is added, and the 
cask filled up, and bunged down close. In 4 
or 5 weeks more the cask is again filled up, 
and, after some weeks — the longer the better — 
it is " pegged " or " spiled,'^ to ascertain if it 
be fine or transparent ; if so, it undergoes the 
operation of racking ; but if, on the contrary, 
it still continues muddy, it must previously 
pass through the process of fining. Its future 
treatment is similar to that of foreign wine. 
The must of many of the strong-flavored 
fruits, as black currants, for instance, is im- 
proved by being boiled before being made into 
wine ; but the flavor and bouquet of the more 
delicate fruits are diminished, if not destroyed, 
by boiling. 

728. General Receipt for the Prep- 
aration of Home-Made "Wine from Ripe 
Saccharine Fruits. I. Eipe fruit, 4 pounds; 
clear soft water, 1 gallon ; sugar, 3 pounds ; 
cream of tartar, dissolved in boiling water, 1 J 
ounces ; brandy, 2 to 3 per cent. Flavoring 
as required. ' Makes a good family wine. 
II. As the last, using 1 pound more each of 
fruit and sugar. A superior wine. 

III. As the first, adding 2 pounds each fruit 
and sugar. Yery strong. Is good without 
brandy, but better with it. 1^ pounds of 
raisins may be substituted for each pound of 
sugar above. In the above way may be made 
the following wines: — gooseberry wine, cur- 
rant wine (red, white or black) ; mixed fruit 
wine (cun-ants and goosebemes; or black, 
red, and white currants, ripe black-heart cher- 
ries, and raspberries, equal parts). This is a 
good family wine. Cherry wine ; Colepress's 
wine, (from apples and mulberries, equal 
parts) ; elder wine ; strawberry wine ; rasp- 
berry wine ; mulberry wine (when flavored 
makes port) ; whortleberry (sometimes called 
hucklebeny) wine ; makes a good factitious 
port ; blackberry wine ; morella wine ; apricot 
wine; apple wine* grape wine, &q. 



HOME-MADE WINES. 



85 



729. General Receipt for Making 
Wine from Dry Saccharine Fruit. 
I. Dry fruit, 4^ pounds; soft water^ 1 gal- 
lon; cream of tartar (dissolved); 1 pound; 
brandy, 1^ to 2 per cent., Treak. 

II. As the last, but using 5^ pounds dried 
fruit. A superior family wine. 

III. As the last, 7^ pounds fruit, and bran- 
dy 3 per cent. A strong ^vine. Should the 
dried fruit employed be at all deficient in 
saccharine matter, 1 to 3 pounds may be 
omitted, and half that quantity of sugar, or 
two thirds of raisins, added. In the above 
manner may be made raisin wine, fig wine, &:q. 

730. Imitation Champagne. Stoned 
rai&ins, 7 pounds ; loaf sugar, 21 pounds ; water, 
9 gallons ; crystallized tartaric acid, 1 ounce ; 
honey, ^ pound ; ferment with sweet yeast 1 
pound or less ; skim frequently, and when the 
fermentation is nearly over, add coarse-pow- 
dered orris root, 1 drachm, and eau de fleurs 
d'orange, 3 ounces ; lemon juice, ^ pint. Rack 
it, bung close, and in 3 months fine it down 
with isinglass, -J ounce; in 1 month more, if 
not sparkling, again fine it down, and in 2 
weeks bottle it, observing to put a piece of 
double-refined sugar, the size of a pea, into 
each bottle. The bottles should be wired, and 
the corks covered with tin foil. 

731. To Make Blackberry Wine. To 
make 10 gallons of this cheap and excellent 
wtae, press the juice out of sufficient fresh 
ripe blackberries to make 4i gallons ; wash 
the pomace in 4^ gallons soft spring water, 
and thoroughly dissolve iu it 6 pounds white 
sugar to eaeh"^ gallon of water (brown sugar 
will do for an inferior wine) ; strain the juice 
into this syrup, and mix them. Fill a cask 
with it perfectly full, and lay a cloth loosely 
over the bung-hole, placing the cask where it 
will be perfectly undisturbed. In two or 
three days fermentation will commence, and 
the impurities run over at the bung. Look at 
it every day, and if it does not run over, with 
some of the mixture which you have reserved 
m another Tessel fill it up to the bung. In 
about three weeks, fermentation will have 
ceased, and the wiue be still ; fill it again, 
drive in the bung tight, nail a tin over it, and 
let it remaiu undisturbed until the following 
March. Then draw it off, without shaking 
the cask, put it into bottles, cork tightly and 
seal over. Some persons add spirit to the 
wine, but instead of doing good, it is only an 
injury. The more carefully the juice is 
strained, the better the quality of the sugar, 
and the more scrupulously clean the utensils 
and casks, the purer and"^ better will be the 
wine. 

732. Cider Wine. Let the new cider 
from sour apples (ripe, sound fruit prefei-red), 
ferment from 1 to 3 weeks, as the weather is 
warm or cool. When it has attaiued to a 



cider settle. Fermentation will cease at 
once. "Wlien, after a few days, the cider has 
become clear, draw off carefully, to avoid the 
sediment, and bottle. If loosely corked for a 
short time, it will become a sparkling cider 
wine, and may be kept indefinitely long. 

733. Honey or Mead Wine. Honey, 
20 pounds ; cider, 12 gallons ; ferment, then 
add rum, ^ gallon; brandy, ^ gallon; red or 
white tartar (dissolved), 6 ounces; bitter 
almonds and cloves, of each ^ ounce. The 
process of fermenting, clearing and bottling, 
is similar to the last receipt. 

734. Specimen Process to Make Un- 
ripe Grape, Currant, Gooseberry and 
Rhubarb Wine, according to the process 
of Dr. McCulloch. Gather the fruit when it 
is nearly full grown, but before it shows the 
least sign of ripening. Any kind will do, but 
it is advisable to avoid choosing those which, 
when ripe, would be highly flavored. All un- 
sound and bruised fruit should be rejected, 
and the stalks and remains of blossom re- 
moved by picking or rubbing. The following 
receipt is one of the best on the subject : 40 
pounds fruit are to be bruised in small quan- 
tities, iu a tub which wiU hold 15 or 20 gal- 
lons, sufficient pressure only being used to 
burst the berries, without breaking the seeds 
or much compressing the skins. 4 gallons 
water are then to be pom-ed on the fi'uit, 
which is to be carefully stirred, and squeezed 
with the hands until the whole of the juice 
and pulp are separated from the solid matter. 
It is then to rest for a few hours, when it must 
be pressed and strained through a coarse can- 
vas bag vrith considerable force. 1 gallon 
water may afterwards be passed through the 
residue, to remove any soluble matter that 
may be left, and then added to the juice. 30 
pounds loaf sugar are now to be dissolved in 
the juice, and the total quantity of liquid 
made up with water to 10^ gallons. The 
liquor is now to be put into a tub, over which 
spread a blanket, covered by a board, and 
place in a temperature of from 55° to 60° 
Fahr. for from 24 to 48 hours, according to the 
signs which it may show of fermentation, 
when it is to be put into a cask to ferment. 
The cask must be of such size that the liquor 
will nearly reach to the bung-hole, so that the 
scum may run out as it rises. As the fermen- 
tation goes on the liquor will decrease, and 
the cask must be kept filled up nearly to the 
bung-hole with a portion of the ' ' must " which 
has been reserved for that purpose. When the 
fennentation has become a little weaker, 
which may be known by the hissing noise de- 
creasing, the bung is to be driven in, and a 
wooden peg, called a spile, made of tough 
wood, put into a hole bored in the top of the 
barrel. After a few days this peg is to be 
loosened to let out any carbonic acid gas 



lively fermentation, add to each gallon, accord- j which has been generated. This must be 
ing to its acidity, from ^ to 2 pounds white j done from time to time, and when there is no 
crushed sugar, and let the whole ferment until ; further sign of gas generating to the danger 
it possesses precisely the taste which it is '\ of the barrel, the spile may be made tight, 
desired should be permanent. In this condi- 1 The wine should be kept during the winter in 
tion pour out a quart of the cider and add for ' a cool cellar, and, if fine, n^ay be bottled on 
each gaUon |- ounce of sulphite (not sulphate) a clear cold day at the end of February or the 
of lime. Stir the powder and cider until inti- j beginning of March, without further trouble, 
mately mixed, and return the emulsion to the : But to ensure its fineness it is preferable to 
fermenting liquid. Agitate briskly and thor- [ draw it off at the end of December into a 
onghly for a tew moments, and then let the fresh cask, so as to clear it from the lees. At 



86 



ROME-MADE WINES. 



this time, also, if it is found to be too sweet 
for the maker's taste, he should stir up the lees 
so as to renew the fermentation, at the same 
time raising the temperature, When it is 
transferred to the fresh cask, it should be 
fined with isinglass. Sometimes it is desira- 
ble to rack it off a second time into a fresh 
cask, again fining it. All these removals 
should be made in clear, dry, and if possible, 
cold weather. It must be bottled in March. 
This wine will usually be brisk, but circum- 
stances will occasionally cause it to be sweet 
and stiU, and sometimes dry. If sweet, it 
may be re-made the following season, by add- 
ing to it juice from fresh fruit, according to 
the degree of sweetness, and fermenting and 
treating it as before. But if it be dry, brisk- 
ness can never be restored, and it must be 
treated as a dry wine, by drawing it off into a 
cask previously fumigated with sulphur {see 
No. 766), and fining and bottling it in the 
usual manner. Such dry wines sometimes 
taste disagreeably in the first and second 
year, but improve much with age. If the 
whole marc or husks, etc., is allowed to re- 
maiu in the juice during the fii'st fermentation, 
the process will be more rapid, and the wine 
stronger and less sweet; but it will have more 
flavor. If the wine is desired to be very sweet 
as well as brisk, 40 pounds of sugar may be 
used ; less sweet and less strong, 25 pounds ; 
it will be brisk, but not so strong, and ought 
to be used within a year. 

735. Ripe Gooseberry "Wine. Put 
the ripe and well picked red gooseberries 
into a tub or pan, bruise the fruit well, and 
leave it uncovered for 24 hours. Squeeze the 
juice from the pulp through a hair or canvas 
bag. Put the residue of each squeezing into 
a vessel; pour upon it ^ gallon of boiling wa- 
ter for each gallon of fruit used, and stir well 
for a quarter of an hour. Let it stand for 12 
hours, squeeze the pulp through the bag, and 
add the liquor to the juice of the fruit ob- 
tained. Add 2-|- pounds sugar to each gallon 
of the liquor, and stir it well. Let it stand to 
ferment. When it has done fermenting, draw 
it off and add f pint brandy to each gallon. 
Let it stand to settle for 4 or 5 weeks, then 
draw it off carefully into a cask that will just 
hold it ; keep it in a cool cellar for twelve 
months or more, when it may be bottled. 
Choose a clear, dry, cold day. It ought to be 
a splendid wine in 2 years. 

736. Ginger "Wine. Boil 20 pounds 
sugar in 7 gallons water for half an hour, 
skimming it well ; then put 9 ounces bruised 
ginger in a portion of the liquor, and mix all 
together. When nearly cold, put 9 pounds 
raisins, chopped very smaU, into a nine-gallon 
cask, add 4 lemons sliced, after taking out the 
seeds, and pour the liquor over all, with -J 
pint yeast. Leave the cask open for 3 weeks, 
keeping it filled up with some of the reserved 
liquor, and bottle it in from 6 to 9 months. 

737. Ginger "Wine. Another Pro- 
cess. Boil 26 pounds raw sugar in 7 gallons 
water for half an hour, skimming it well ; then, 
if the syrup is quite clear from scum, pour 
it boiling upon 8 ounces bruised ginger and 16 
lemons sliced ; when the whole has cooled 
down to about 7.5°, squeeze out the lemons 
and ginger through a sieve, and add the yeast. 
Let it work for about 3 days, and then draw 



it off into a cask. Put half of the lemon and 
ginger residue in with it. Some first pare the 
lemons, and having rubbed the rinds with 
loaf sugar, add the latter when it is done 
working. Bottle in 3 months. 

738. To Make Aromatic Ginger 
"Wine. Eeduce the following to coarse pow- 
der: 5 pounds Jamaica ginger root, 6 to 8 
ounces cloves, 1 pound allspice, -J pound cinna- 
mon, and ^ pound mace. Infuse these for 10 
days in 10 gallons 95 per cent, spirit, stirring 
every day, and then filter. Then dissolve 50 
pounds white sugar in 85 gallons water ; mix 
the whole together, and color with cherry 
juice ; then filter. 

739. To Make Ten Gallons of Ginger 
Wine. Boil f pound best white Jamaica gin- 
ger, bruised, in about 8 gallons water ; add 
the whites of 6 eggs to J ounce isinglass, 15 
pounds loaf sugar, and the rinds of 6 lemons \. 
l3oil the compound f of an hour, and skim it 
clean ; when nearly cold put it into a vessel 
that will admit of its being drawn off; set it 
to work with yeast, and in a few days after 
wards draw it off into a cask ; then add the 
juice of the 6 lemons, and 2 quarts spirits ; in 
a week or ten days bung the cask closely, and 
when thoroughly fine, bottle the wine off. It 
will be fit to drink in 4 months. 

740. Simple Receipt for Making 
Grape "Wine. Put 20 pounds of ripe, fresh- 
picked, and well selected grapes into a stone 
jar, and pour on them 6 quarts boiling water ; 
when the water has cooled enough, squeeze 
the grapes well with the hand ; cover the jar 
with a cloth, and let it stand for 3 days ; then 
press out the juice, and add 10 pounds crushed 
sugar. After it has stood for a week, scum^ 
strain, and bottle it, corking loosely. ^ When 
the fermentation is complete, strain it again 
and bottle it, corking tightly. Lay the bot- 
tles on their side in a cool place. 

741. Fine Grape "Wine. In order to 
make good wine it is necessary to have a 
good cellar, clean casks, press, etc. First of 
all, have your grapes well ripened; gather 
them in dry weather, and pick out carefuUy 
all the unripe berries, and all the dried and 
damaged ones ; then mash them ; or, if you 
have a proper mill for the purpose, grind 
them. Be careful not to set the mill so close 
as to mash the seed, for they will give a bad 
taste to the wine. If you wish to have wine 
of a rose color, let the grapes remain in a 
large tub a few hours before pressing. The 
longer time you leave the grapes before press- 
ing, after they are mashed, the more color the 
wine will have. For pressing the grapes, any 
press will answer, provided it is kept clean 
and sweet. After you have collected the 
must in a clean tub from the press, transfer 
it into a cask in the cellar. Fill the cask 
within 10 inches of the bung ; then place one 
end of a syphon, made for that purpose, in 
the bung, and fix it air-tight ; the other end 
must be submerged fully 4 inches in a bucket 
of cold water. The gas thus passes off from 
the cask, but the air is prevented from coming 
in contact with the wine, which would destroy 
that fine grape flavor which makes Catawba 
wine so celebrated. When properly made, 
the must will undergo fermentation. When 
it has fermented, which will be in 15 days, 
fill the cask with the same kind of wine and 



HOME-MADE WINES. 



bung it loosely for 1 week; then make it 
tight. N^othing more is needed till it is clear, 
which, if all is right, will be in the January 
or February following. Then, if perfectly 
clear, rack it off into another clean cask, and 
bung it up tightly until wanted. If the wine 
remains in the cask till about N'ovember, 
it will improve by racking it again. Be sm*e 
to have sweety clean casks. Do not bm-n too 
much brimstone in the cask {see No. 766) ; 
much wine is injured by excessive use of 
brimstone — a mistake generally made by new 
beginners. Different quahties of wine can be 
made with the same grape by separating the 
different runs of the same pressing. The first 
run is the finest to make use of the first 
season; but it will not keep long without 
losing its fine qualities. To make good sound 
wine, that will improve by age, the plan is to 
mix all up together. The very last run wiQ 
make it rough, but it will have better body 
and better flavor when 2 or 3 years old, and 
will improve for a number of years. The 
first run will not be good after 2 or 3 years. 

742. To Fine Wine Difficult to Clari- 
fy, or Thick in Consequence of an Im- 

J)erfect Fermentation. To clarify 60 gal- 
ons, take 1 ounce of the species of Dock or 
Eumex plant, called Patience root, which boil 
in 1 quart water. When cold, filter, and add 
1 ounce common salt, then 1 glass sheep's 
blood. Beat all the ingredients well together 
with a broom until the mixture foams up 
well, then add it gradually to the wine, stir- 
ring continually while poming it in, and for 
15 minutes afterwards. In a few days the 
wine will be clear. 

743. To Fine Madeira or any kind of 
"Wine with. Isinglass. To fine 40 gallons 
wine, steep 1 ounce isinglass in 1 pint of pm'e 
cold water over night, and then melt it over 
a gentle charcoal fire, until a uniform gelatin- 
ous mass is formed. AVhen cool, mix with it 
3 pints wine, and let it repose 12 hours in a 
moderately warm room. Then add 1 gallon 
wine and mix the whole in a wooden vessel ; 
whisk it with a clean broom until it foams up. 
Pour this mixture gradually in the wine you 
desire to fine, being careful to stir the whole 
continually during the process. Bung up the 
cask, and in the course of 48 hours the wine 
will appear perfectly clear and bright. Isin- 
glass prepared in this way wiU precipitate 
perfectly, and leave no particles suspended in 
the wine. 

744. To Fine White Wine with 
Eggs. To fine 60 gallons white wine, take 
the whites of 5 or 6 fresh eggs, 1 egg-shell 
nearly reduced to powder, and a small hand- 
ful of common salt. Beat the whole together 
in a little of the wine, with a small clean 
broom, until it foams, then pour it into the 
wine gradually, constantly stirring it all the 
while. 

745. To Fine Red Wine. This is 
clarified in the same way. When you have 
RoussiUon, or the dark wiues caUed via du 
midi, which are usually of a deep color, and 
wish to make it of a lighter color, add 5 or 6 
eggs, yeUows, whites, and sheUs together, 
with a small handful of salt. 

746. To Fine a Pipe of Port Wine. 
Take the whites and shells of ten good eggs, 
and beat them up to a froth in a wooden i 



87 



bucket; add 1 gaUon of Port and whisk it 
well up to a froth with a clean broom ; draw 
off 4 gallons, and put the finings in it ; stir 
it up well, leaving out the bung one day; 
then bung it up, and in ten days it will be fit 
to bottle. If the weather be warm, mix up 1 
pint silver sand and add to the finings. 

747. To Fine Wine, Cider, Ale, or 
Porter. Take 1 pound finely shredded isin- 
glass, and macerate it in wine, sour beer, 
cider, or vinegar ; add more of the liquid as 
the isinglass swells, until about a gallon has 
been used, agitation with a whisk being occa- 
sionally had recourse to, for the purpose of 
promoting the solution. As soon as the 
whole of the isinglass is dissolved, the mix- 
ture is reduced to the consistence of thin 
syrup, with wine or the liquid that the 
finings are intended for. The whole is next 
straiued through a cloth or hair sieve, and at 
once reduced to a proper state of dilution, by 
the addition of more liquor. A pound of 
good isinglass will make 10 to 12 gallons of 
finings. 1 to 1^ pints is the usual quantity 
for a barrel of ale or porter ; and 1 quart for a 
hogshead of wine or cider. 

748. To Decolor Wine. The color of 
wine is subject to change ; naturally it is pre- 
cipitated by age and exposure to the light ; 
artificially it is removed by the action of 
lime-water, skimmed milk, milk of lime, and 
sometimes fresh-bumt charcoal. "Wines that 
have acquired a brown color from the cask, or 
red wines that have become "pricked" {see 
No. 752), or dark wiues of any kind, may 
easily be turned iuto white wiiie by employ- 
ing either of the above substances. In this 
way brown Sherry is commonly changed to 
pale Sheny ; for this purpose 2 or 3 pints of 
skimmed milk are generally sufficient tO' 
decolor a cask of witie ; but when it is found 
necessary to change the color of red wine, 2 
or 3 quarts or more will be required. Char- 
coal is not often used, as it afiects the flavor 
as well as color of wine. A little milk of 
lime may sometimes be substituted for milk, 
especially when the wine to be decolored is 
very acid, and red wines may be rendered 
quite colorless by it. 

749. To Remedy Ropiness in Wine 
The peculiar cloudy, stringy, oily appearance 
in wiue, caUed by the French " gi-aisse," and 
by the Americans "ropiness," is occasioned 
by the presence of a glutiuous substance, and 
is generally observed in those white wines 
which do not contain much tannin. M. 
Francois, a chemist, first discovered the 
cause, and pointed out the proper remedy, in 
the addition of tannin. He recommended the 
use of 1 pound of the bruised berries of the 
mountain ash in a somewhat unripe state, 
well stirred in each barrel of the wine to be 
improved. After agitation, the wine is to be 
left to repose a day or two, and then racked 
off. The tannin in the berries by this time 
will have separated and precipitated the 
glutinous matter from the liquid, and removed 
the ropiness. "Wines thus affected cannot be 
fined in the regular way, as they do not con- 
tain sufficient of the astringent principle to 
cause the coagulation or precipitation of the 
finings ; this principle must therefore be sup- 
plied, and for pale white wines, which are 
the kind chiefly attacked with ropiaess, noth- 



s& 



SOME-MADE WINES. 



ing equals a little pure tannin or tannic acid 
dissolved in proof spirit. Red wines contain 
so much tannic acid that they are never 
troubled by ropiness. "Wine, after having 
been cured of ropiness, should immediately be 
fined and bottled. 

750. To Ripen Wine. Dealers adopt 
various ways to hasten the ripening of wine. 
One of the safest and best plans for this pur- 
pose, especially for strong wines, is to let them 
remain on the lees 15 to 18 months before 
racking off, or, whether " crude '^ or " racked," 
keeping them at a temperature ranging be- 
tween 50° to 60° Fah., in a cellar free from 
draughts, and not too dry. Dealers some- 
times remove the bungs or corks, and substi- 
tute bladders fastened air-tight. Bottled 
wine treated in this way, and kept at about 
70° Fah., ripens very rapidly. 4 or 5 drops of 
acetic acid added to a bottle of some kinds of 
new wine, immediately gives it the appearance 
of being 2 or 3 years old. 

751. To Bemedy Sour Wine. The 
souring of wine is produced by various cir- 
cumstances, sometimes from its having been 
kept in a warm cellar where it has been ex- 
posed to draughts of air, often by the vibra- 
tion occasioned by the rolling of heavy bodies 
over the cellar ; but most frequently it origi- 
nates from the wine having been imperfectly 
fermented. The only safe remedy for the 
souring of wine is the cautious addition of a 
little neutral tartrate of potash ; it may also 
1)6 mixed with a larger quantity of rich wine 
of its kind, at the same time adding a little 
good brandy. "Wine treated in this way 
should be lined after having stood 2 or 3 
weeks, and then immediately bottled, and 
consumed as soon as possible, for it will never 
prove a good keeping wine. {See No. 761.) 

752. To Restore Pricked or Decay- 
ing Wine. If the wine is only thick, add 2 
pints of milk to every 30 gallons of wine, and 
stir 10 minutes. But if the wine has an infe- 
rior taste, or is partly or entirely spoiled, 
treat it as follows : Put the 30 gallons wine 
into a clean cask, then take 2 pints spirit of 
wine, 95 per cent.; 3 ounces common salt; 1 
pound white sugar. Dissolve the salt and 
sugar in ^ gallon of the wine, and add the 
spirit. Then pour the whole gradually into 
the wine, being careful to stir it continually 
with a stick during the operation. After the 
mixture is all poured in the wine, stir the 
whole for 10 minutes longer. Then add 2 
pints milk and continue stirring 10 minutes 
more. After some days the wine will be com- 
pletely clarified and restored. "Pricked" 
wine signifies wine which has been shghtly 
soured. 

753. To Remedy Excessive Acidity 
in German Wine. Simply add a little 
chalk. This mode of correcting the sourness 
of wine is perfectly harmless, whereas the 
pernicious practice of using white and vitri- 
fied lead for this purpose cannot be too much 
condemned. Lead in any form is a poison. 

754. To Restore Sour Wine with 
Potash. To 25 gallons wine, add 4 ounces 
potash dissolved in a little water, and stir well 
with a stick for 10 minutes. 

755. To Test Wines Beginning to 
Decompose. Many persons arc unaware of 
the difference between a wine that is begin- 



nuag to decompose (called in French the 
Poux), and that in which the acetous fermen- 
tation has commenced. The Poux appears at 
the bottom of the barrel, while acetification 
begins at the top. For the first stage of the 
Poux the wine becomes thick, and has a pecu- 
Kar taste termed flat. For the second stage 
the wine becomes still more troubled, and has 
the taste of stagnant watej*. Finally, in the 
last stage, when the decomposition has 
reached its maximum, the wine becomes 
grayish and appears like muddy water. If 
some of the wine is put into a champagne 
glass and a pinch of tartaric acid is added, a 
red color will be produced, which will not 
be the case if the wine is in a state of acetous 
fermentation. 

756. Remedy for Decomposition in 
Wines. As soon as discovered add tartaric 
acid in the proportion of If ounces to every 
20 gallons of the wine, and let it rest for a 
few days, when, if the wine has not regained 
its natural color, a little more tartaric acid 
must be added. 

757. Sweating In and Fretting In 
Wine. The technical terms '^sweating in" 
and ''fretting in" are applied to the partial 
production of a second fermentation, for the 
purpose of mellowing down the flavor of for- 
eign ingredients (chiefly brandy) added to 
wine. For this purpose 4 or 5 pounds sugar 
or honey, with a little crude tartar (dissolved), 
are commonly added per hogshead ; and when 
the wine is wanted in haste, 1 or 2 spoonfuls 
of yeast, or a few bruised vine leaves are also 
mixed in, the cask being placed in a moder- 
ately warm situation until the new fermenta- 
tion is established, when it is removed to the 
wine-cellar, and, after a few days, fined down. 

758. To Remove Mustiness from 
Wine. The disagreeable taste in wine, gene- 
rally known as mustiness, is occasioned by 
the presence of an essential oil. This may be 
removed by adding a little sweet or almond oil, 
and then violently stirring the wine for some 
time. The fixed oil attracts and seizes on the 
essential oil, and rises with it to the surface, 
when it is easily skimmed off, or the liquid 
under it drawn off. A few slices of burnt or 
toasted bread, or a little bruised mustard 
seed or coarsely powdered charcoal, will often 
have the same effect. 

759. Pasteur's Method of Preserving 
Wines. M. Pasteur announced some time 
ago that wines became spoiled in consequence 
of the presence of microscopic organisms, 
which could be destroyed by exposing the 
wine, for a few moments only, to a tempera- 
ture of 131° Fahr. A committee of experts 
was appointed to make a comparative exam- 
ination of wines which had and which had 
not been subjected to heat; M. Lapparent 
being President, and M. Dumas and M. Pas- 
teur assisting. They concluded that the pre- 
servation of wine in bottles is greatly im- 
proved by heating; that the destruction of 
the germs is perfect, without the least impair- 
ment of the taste, color, or limpidity of the 
wines. 

760. To Determine the Nature of 
Acidity in Wine. If wine has undergone 
the acetous fermentation, then convert it at 
once into vinegar by one of the usual modes. 
But if its acidity proceeds from an excess of 



CORDIALS OR LIQUEURS. 



8^ 



tartaric acid, this defect may be remedied by 
shaking the wine with a concentrated solution 
of neutral tartrate of potassa, which, with 
the surplus of tartaric acid, will form bitar- 
trate of potassa, and precipitate as such. To 
discover the nature of the acidity, neutralize 
an ounce or so of the wine with some car- 
bonate of soda, then add a small quantity of 
sulphuric acid, and boil up ; if acetic acid or 
vinegar be present, it will be perceptible by 
its odor, {See No. 751.) 

761. Parent's Method of Preserving 
Wine. This consists in the addition of a 
small quantity of tannin or tannic acid to the 
wine, which perhaps acts in a similar way, by 
destroying the vitality of the spores of the 
fungus, since a microscopic examination of 
wine known to contain these germs, within 
a few weeks after being treated with the tan- 
nin, has failed to detect the slightest trace. 
Indeed, wine which has already begun to 
change, and become turbid, can be restored to 
its primitive clearness, and with a great im- 
provement in its taste. Care must be taken, 
however, to use only tannin which has been 
prepared from the constituents of the grape, 
since the slightest proportion of the extract 
of nut-gall, although accomplishing the gen- 
eral object of destroying the fungus, will im- 
part a peculiar taste, which never disappears. 

762. Antiferments. Substances used 
in small quantities for arresting fermentation 
in cider, wine, and malt liquors. The follow- 
ing formulae are effective, and have the advan- 
tage of being harmless. {See No. 835.) 

763. Antiferments for Cider. Sul- 
phite (not sulphate) of lime in fine powder, 
and as newly prepared as possible. Or, 2 
parts sulphite of lime and 3 parts ground 
black mustard seed. 

764. Antiferments for Cider, Wine, 
Malt Liquors. &c. Grind or bruise togeth- 
er 13 pounds new mustard seed and 1 pound 
cloves. This mixture may be used with or 
without the addition of 10 ounces ground 
capsicum. 

765. To Induce Fermentation. If 
fermentation does not begin within a reason- 
able time, raise the temperature by covering 
the vessel with blankets, and moving it near 
to a fire. Or, warm a portion of the must and 
add it to the rest. A small quantity of yeast, 
previously well mixed with some of the liquor, 
gently stirred in, will have the same effect. 
Or, the must may be warmed by placing 
large stone bottles, filled with boiling water 
and well corked, in the liquor. 

766. To Arrest Fermentation. Dip a 
strip of linen or cotton, an inch wide and 
seven inches long, into melted sulphm-. Fas- 
ten a wire into the bung of a CO-gallon cask, 
so that the end will hang about the middle of 
the inside of the cask, bend the end up to 
form a hook, place the sulphur tape on the 
hook, ignite it, and insert it in the cask, bung- 
ing loosely. In about an hour the cask will 
be impregnated with sulphurous acid ; then 
withdraw the match, and fill up with wine, 
and bung up tight. This will stop further 
fermentation. This is a good plan for white 
wines, but not for red wines, as sulphur in- 
jures their color. Sulphite (not sulphate) of 
lime is also sometimes employed to arrest fer- 
mentation. {See No. 835.) 



Cordials or Liqueurs. The 
materials employed in the preparation ol 
cordials are rain or distilled water, white 
sugar, and clean, perfectly flavorless spirit. 
To these may be added the substances from 
which the flavor and aroma are extracted, 
which distinguish and give character to the 
particular cordial to be made, and also the arti- 
cles employed as "finings'' when artificial 
clarification is had recourse to. In the prep- 
aration or compounding of cordials, one of 
the first objects which engages the operator's 
attention is the production of an alcoholic 
solution of the aromatic principles which are 
to give them their peculiar aroma and flavor. 
{See No. 812.) This is done either by simple 
infusion or maceration, or by maceration and 
subsequent distillation, or by flavoring the 
spirit with essential oils. In the preparation 
of liqueurs, glycerine has been found to be 
admirably adapted for preserving the charac- 
teristic flavors of those compounds, and it has 
consequently become the great favorite of 
this class of manufactures. {See No. 725.) 

768. Cordials Made by Maceration, 
or with Essential Oils. When essential 
oils are employed to convey the flavor, they 
are first dissolved in a little of the strongest 
rectified spirit of wine, and when added to the 
spmt they are mixed up with the whole mass 
as rapidly and as perfectly as possible by labo- 
rious and long continued agitation. The 
stronger spirit may be reduced to the desired 
strength by means of clear soft water, or the 
clarified syrup used for sweetening. The 
sugar employed should be of the finest quaUty, 
and is preferably made into syrup before 
adding it to the aromatized spirit ; and this 
should not be added until the latter has been 
rendered perfectly fine by filtering or fining. 
Some spirits, as anise seed, etc., frequently 
require this treatment, which is best performed 
by running them through a fine and clean 
filter, having previously mixed them with a 
spoonful or two of magnesia. By good man- 
agement, cordials thus made will be perfectly 
clear and transparent; but should this not 
be the case, they may be fined with the whites 
of about 12 or 20 eggs to the hogshead, or by 
adding a little alum, either alone or followed 
by a little carbonate of soda or potassa, both 
dissolved in water. In a week or a fortnight 
the liquor will be clear. 

769. To Make Doppelt Kummel or 
Caraway. Dissolve separately, each in a 
little 95 per cent, alcohol, ^ drachm oil of 
anise, and 5 drops each of the oils of calamus, 
bitter almonds, and coriander; dissolve also 1 to 
1^ ounces oil of caraway in sufficient alcohol 
(95 per cent.) to make a clear solution. In- 
corporate these with 40 gallons French proof 
spirit ; and add 10 pounds sugar dissolved in 
5 gallons water. 

770. To Make Anisette. To 30 gallons 
French proof spirit add 4 ounces essence of star 
anise dissolved in 95 per cent, alcohol, and 105 
gallons syrup of 10^ Baume. Stir for ^ fi'i 
hour, settle and filter. 

771. To Make CuraQoa. Slice the out- 
side peel very thin from GO bitter oranges ; 
infuse for 15 days with 4 drachms bruised 
cinnamon, and 2 drachms bruised mace, in 5 
gallons 95 per cent. French spirit, stining 
every day. Then add 25 pounds white sugar 



00 



CORDIALS OB LIQUEURS. 



iissolved in 2 gallons water; color witli 
caramel {see No. 694) ; stir thorouglily, and 
filter. 

772. To Make Marascliino. Dissolve 
in 1^ gallons 95 per cent, alcohol, li ounces 
essence of maraschino, 1^ drachms essence of 
rose, 5 drachm essence of noyan,5 drops essence 
of cloves, and 8 drops essence of cinnamon ; add 
5 gallon on-is root flavoring. {See No. 669.) 
Mix the above with 12 gallons 95 per cent, 
alcohol and 26 gallons syrup of 30° Baume. 
Stir thoroughly and filter. 

773. Superfine Marascliino. 4 ounces 
essence of noyau ; 1 ounce essence of rose ; i 
ounce essence of neroli (genuine); 4 di-achms 
of mace, infused in 95 per cent, alcohol; ^ 
pound cinnamon, infused in 1 quart of water ; 
2 ounces cloves, infused in 1 pint of water ; 2 
pounds orris root (powdered), infused in 2 
gallons 95 per cent, alcohol for 15 days. Dis- 
solve the essences in 2 gallons 95 per cent, 
alcohol. Mix, put into a barrel 41 gallons 85 
per cent, alcohol ; add the aromas, in 4 gallons 
95 per cent, alcohol ; sugar syrup, 90 gallons 
32° Baume. Stir all the ingredients well to- 
gether for at least half an hom-, and let the 
mixtm'e stand two weeks ; then filter and put 
in the filter two or three sheets of filtering 
paper. {See No. 811.) 

774. Marascliino. 11 ounces essence of 
maraschino, Ih drachms essence of rose, 5 
drachm essence of noyau, 8 drops essence of 
cinnamon, 5 drops essence of cloves, 5 pound 
orris root (powdered), infused in \ gallon 95 
per cent, alcohol for 15 days. Dissolve the 
essences in 1 gallon 95 per cent, alcohol. Mix, 
put in a barrel 12 gallons 80 per cent, alcohol 
and add 2 gallons 95 per cent, perfumed alco- 
hol (as described above) ; sugar syrup, 26 gal- 
lons 25° Baume's saccharometer. Mix and 
filter as directed in the last receipt. 

775. Marascliino. 31 ounces essence 
of noyau, 6 drachms essence of rose. Dis- 
solve the above in 5 gallon 95 per cent, alco- 
hol, and add 4 spoonfuls of magnesia, 1 gal- 
lon orange flower water, 5 poimd cinnamon 
(bruised) infused in | gallon water, J pound 
cloves (bruised), infused in ^ gallon of water, 

4 drachms mace infused in alcohol, 2 pounds 
orris root (powdered) infused in 2 gallons 95 
per cent, alcohol for 15 days. Mix 41 gallons 
80 per cent, alcohol, 90 gallons syrup 25 
degrees Baume, and add 4 gallons perfumed 
spirits, as described above. Stir and filter as 
already directed. 

776. CuraQoa d'Hollande. 2 pounds 
Curagoa orange peel, i pound Ceylon cinna- 
mon. Let them soak in water ; boil them for 

5 minutes with the juice of 32 oranges and 14 
gallons of white plain syrup ; then Md 6 gal- 
lons of 95 per cent, alcohol; strain, filter; 
color dark yellow with sugar coloring. This 
receipt will make a splendid curaQoa. 

777. Curasao. 2 ounces each essence of 
bitter oranges and neroli ; ^ ounce essence of 
cinnamon ; 3 drachms mace infused in alcohol. 
Dissolve the above essences in 1 gallon 95 
per cent, alcohol, then put in a clean barrel 
13 gallons 85 per cent, alcohol, 26 gallons 
sugar syrup 30 degrees Baume, and add 1 
gallon perfumed spirit, as above. Color with 
saffron or turmeric. 

778. Champion Anisette. Put into a 
barrel 30 gallons 85 per cent, alcohol. Add 



4 ounces essence of anise seed, which dissolve 
in 2 gallons 95 per cent, alcohol. Add 103 
gallons sugar syrup 10° Baume. Stir 15 
minutes and let it rest 4 or 5 days, then filter. 
Add 2 or 3 sheets of filtering paper. {See No. 
811.) 

779. Anisette. Put in a barrel 13 gal- 
lons 95 per cent, alcohol. Dissolve 3g ounces 
essence of green anise seed in 1 gaDon 95 
per cent, alcohol, and add 5 gallon orange 
flower water, 8 or 10 drops infusion of mace, 
and 5 drops essence of cinnamon. Then put 
in the barrel 26 gallons sugar syrup 25° 
Baume. Stir and filter as directed in the last 
receipt. 

780. Anise Seed Cordial. Dissolve 3 
drachms of oil of anise seed in 2f gallons of 
95 per cent, alcohol ; then add 2k gallons of 
fine white syrup, mixed with 4f gallons of 
water. Stir and filter. 

781. Malliorca d'Espagne. 40 gallons 
55 per cent, alcohol, 5 ounces essence green 
anise seed and 5 ounces essence of star seed 
dissolved in 95 per cent, alcohol, k drachm 
ether (to give the cordial age). Stir and 
filter. 

782. Blackberry Brandy. To 10 gal- 
lons blackberry juice, and 25 gallons spirits 
40 above proof, add 1 drachm each of oil of 
cloves and oil of cinnamon dissolved in 95 
per cent, alcohol, and 12 pounds white sugar 
dissolved in 6 gallons water. Dissolve the 
oils separately in i pint 95 per cent, alcohol ; 
mix both together, and use one half the quan- 
tity ; if the cordial is not sufficiently flavored, 
use the balance. 

783. Blackberry Brandy. i ounce 
each of cinnamon, cloves, and mace, 1 drachm 
cardamom. Giind to a coarse powder; add 
to 16 pounds of blackberries, mashed, and 5 
gallons of 95 per cent, alcohol. Macerate 
for two weeks ; press it ; then add 10 pounds 
of sugar, dissolved in 3f gallons of water. 
FHter. 

784. Cherry Brandy. Mash 16 pounds 
of black cherries with their stones; 5 gal- 
lons 95 per cent, alcohol. Macerate for two 
weeks ; press it ; then add 10 pounds of sugar, 
dissolved in. 3| gallons of water. Filter. 

785. Peach Brandy. Mash 18 pounds 
of peaches, with their stones ; macerate them 
for 24 hours with 4f gallons of 95 per cent, 
alcohol and 4 gallons water. Strain, press, 
and filter; add 5 pints white plain syrup. 
Color dark yellow with burnt sugar coloring. 

786. Imperial Peach Brandy. Take 
4k ounces powdered bitter almonds, 'Si gallons 
of 95 per cent, alcohol, 5^ gallons of water. 
Mix together, and macerate for 24 hours ; then 
add a strained syrup, made of 3| pounds of 
sugar, 1 pint of peach jelly, 2 J ounces preserved 
ginger, 1 lemon cut in slices, 1 drachm of 
grated nutmegs, 1 drachm of allspice in pow- 
der, and 5 pints of water boiled for 2 minutes. 
Mix the whole, and filter. 

787. Peppermint Brandy. To 40 gal- 
lons proof spirit add 4 ounces essence of pep- 
permint, dissolved in 95 per cent, alcohol. 
Color with k pound powder of turmeric 
infused in 1 gallon spirit 95 per cent. Use 
this infusion in such quantity as to get the 
proper shade. 

788. Kirschenwasser. 100 gallons proof 
alcohol; 5 ounces essence of noyau, 2 drachms 



CORDIALS OB LIQUEURS. 



91 



cssenje of rose. Dissolve the latter ingre- 
dient in some 95 per cent, alcohol and add 
a spoonful of magnesia, 2 pounds orris root 
(powdered), infused 15 days in 2 gallons 
95 per cent, alcohol, 1\ gallons sugar sjrup. 
Stir, and filter if necessary. 

789. Caraway Cordial. Dissolve 6 
drachms oil of caraway in 3 gallons 95 per 
cent, alcohol ; add a syrup made of 42 pounds 
of sugar and 4f gallons of water. Filter. 
' 790. Ratafia. This word is derived from 
the Latin pax ratafiat (let peace he ratified). 
The Latins nsed to drink ratafia on signing their 
treaties of peace. Katafia may be made with 
the juice of any fruit. Take 3 gallons cherry 
juice, 4 pounds sugar, dissolved in the cherry 
juice. Steep in 2\ gallons brandy 10 days 

2 drachms cinnamon, 24 cloves, 16 ounces 
peach leaves, 8 ounces bruised cherry ker- 
nels. Filter; mix both liquors, and filter 
again. 

791. To Prepare Cherry Juice by In- 
fusion for making Cherry Bounce and 
Brandy. Put the cherries into barrels and 
cover them with 95 per cent, spirit ; let them 
steep for 1 month, and stir them well every 
8 days. Use the juice that runs off first, and 
repeat this operation 2 or 3 times. The last 
time, you may bruise the chenies and stones, 
and steep them aU together to make cherry 
brandy. 

792. To Prepare Cherry Juice for 
Boiling. Put the cherries in a kettle tinned 
inside, cover them with water, and boil them 
at a gentle heat for 1 horn-. When cold put 
them into ban-els and add 1 gallon 95 per 
cent, spirit to each 10 gallons of the juice. 

793. To Make Cherry Bounce (Su- 
perfine). To 15 gallons cherry juice, add 15 
gallons 80 per cent, spirit; 30 gallons Catalonia 
or Marseilles wine ; l| ounces essence of noyau; 

3 ounces mace infused in 1 quart 95 per 
cent, alcohol; ^ pound cinnamon infused in i 
gallon water; ^ pound cloves ground and 
infused in 1 quart of water. Put all the 
above ingredients in a clean banrel and add 60 
gallons sugar syrup 25° Baume. Stir up the I 
ingredients well, and filter after 4 or 5 days. \ 
If the color is not deep enough add a Little I 
sugar coloring. The above receipt is to make I 
120 gallons, but a much smaller quantity may 
be made by reducing the quantity of each in- 
gredient and observing the same proportion lq 
all. 

794. To make Cherry Bounce (Sec- 
ond Q,uality). To 12 gallons cherry juice, 
add 30 gallons 80 per cent, spirit ; 30 gallons 
Catalonia or Marseilles wine ; 3 ounces essence 
of noyau ; ^ pound cinnamon ground and 
infused in ^ gallon water; 5 pound cloves 
ground and infused in 3 gallon water; I5 
ounce mace infused in 1 pint 95 per cent. 
alcohol. Mix all the above ingredients in a 
clean barrel, and add 60 gallons sugar syrup 13° 
Baume. Stir up all the ingredients well 
together, and filter after 4 or 5 days. Make 
the color a little darker with sugar coloring 
{see No. 694), and to give a good shade add a 
little archil. 

795. To Make Guignolet, or French 
Cherry Bounce. To 20 gallons cherry juice 
add li galhms 95 per cent, spirit; 7 3 gallons 
Catalonia or Marseilles wine ; f ounce pow- 
dered orris root (infused in 1^ gallons 95 



per cent, alcohol) ; 5 gallon cinnamon water 
(made as in last receipt) ; ^ gallon clove water 
(made as in last receipt); li ounces mace 
infused in 95 per cent, alcohol. Mix all the 
above ingredients in a clean barrel, and add 
68 gallons sugar syrup 25° Baume, Stir up 
the mixture and let it rest 8 days ; then strain. 

796. Cordials by Distillation. The 
solid ingredients should be coarsely pounded 
or bruised before digestion in the spirit, and 
this should be done immediately before putting 
them into the cask or vat ; as, after they are 
bruised, they rapidly lose their aromatic prop- 
erties by exposure to the air. The practice 
of drying the ingredients before pounding 
them, adopted by some workmen for the mere 
sake of lessening the labor, cannot be too 
much avoided, as the least exposure to heat 
tends to lessen their aromatic properties, 
which are very volatile. The length of time 
the ingredients should be digested in the 
spirit should never be less than 3 or 4 days, 
but a longer period is preferable when distil- 
lation is not employed. In either case the 
time allowed for digestion may be advantage- 
ously extended to 10 or 15 days, and frequent 
agitation should be had recourse to. In 
managing the still, the fire should be propor- 
tioned to the ponderosity of the oil or flavoring, 
and the receiver should be changed before the 
faints come over, as the latter are unfit to be 
mixed with the cordial. The stronger spirit 
may be reduced to the desired strength by 
means of clear soft water, or the clarified 
syrup used for sweetening. 

797. To Make Absinthe by Distilla- 
tion. Put the following ingredients into a 
cask: — 1^ pounds large absinthe, 2 pounds 
small absinthe, 25 pounds long fennel, 24 
pounds star anise (breaking the star only), 2^ 
pounds green anise seed, 6 ounces coriander 
seed, and 1 pound hyssop ; moisten the whole 
with a little water, allowing it time to soften 
and swell ; then add 12 gallons 95 per cent, 
alcohol, and steep for 2 or 3 days ; next add 
10 gallons water, and let the whole steep for 
1 day more. The water will reduce the alco- 
hol to about 23 gallons of proof spirit. Dis- 
till it, and it will produce nearly 15 gallons 
absinthe of 65 to 70 per cent, strength. 
Change the receiver as soon as the spirit, as it 
comes from the worm, begins to assume a 
reddish tinge. Color the distilled product, by 
steeping in it for 10 or 15 days 5 pound mint 
leaves, ^ pound melissa leaves, 5 pound small 
absinthe, 2 ounces citron peel, and 5 pound 
bruised liquorice root. Strain and filter. 

798. Absinthe by Distillation. This 
is made in the same manner as in the former 
receipt, with the following ingredients : — 40 
gallons 75 per cent, spirits, 20 pounds fennel, 
20 pounds green anise, 16 pounds large absin- 
the, 1 pound coriander, and 20 gallons water. 
This is colored, after distillation, by adding 4 
pounds small absinthe, and heating it again 
until as hot as the hand can bear ; then extin- 
guish the fire, let it cool, settle, and filter it. 

799. Superfine CuraQoa. Charge of the 
still: 35 pounds green orange peel, or 50 pounds 
yellow; 25 gallons 95 per cent, alcohol ; add 4 
gallons water, making in all 29 gallons, at 90 
per cent. Digest for 10 days, and stir daily. In 
making the above, the following directions 
must be carefully observed : — I. Distill very 



9^ 



CORDIALS OB LIQUEURS. 



carefully. II. When you have drawn off 20 gal- 
lons, add 10 gallons water, to draw off the faints, 
wMch may be distilled again in the next distil- 
lation. III. To make superfine Curapoa^ distill 
over again in a water-bath, adding 5 gallons 
water. lY. To know when the faints are coming 
off, take a little in a glass as it flows, and add 
I water, as if for absinthe. TV^hen it no longer 
turns milky, the faints are coming off; reserve 
them for the next distillation. Eeduce the 
Curacoa above distilled to 82 per cent. Trailers, 
which will give 26 gallons. Add 12 gallons 
82 per cent, spirit, 7 gallons coloring (as given 
below), 90 gallons syrup 31° Baume. 

800. Coloring for Curacoa. "3 5 pounds 
Brazil wood ; If pounds each Campeachy and 
yellow wood, 7 gallons 90 per cent, alcohol. 
Mix the above and heat in a water-bath, put- 
ting on the head. "WTien the head begins to 
get hot, rake out the fire and let the whole 
cool together in the bath. 

801. Superfine Maraschino. Charge 
of the still with water-bath : Take 70 pounds 
peach or apricot stones, wash with tepid wa- 
ter, and put them into a barrel, making a 
square hole 4 or 5 inches, in the head, for that 
pm*pose. Cover them with 35 gallons 95 
per cent, alcohol, and let them steep for one 
month. Then distill the whole. 

i^ote the following observations. — I. Be- 
fore distilling, add 4 pounds of peach flowers. 

II. Keep the fire at the same degree of heat, 
or the Maraschino will have an oily taste. 

III. When nearly finished, add 10 gallons wa- 
ter, to draw off the faints, which will do for 
another distillation. Eeduce the spirit above 
distilled to 82 per cent, and you wiU get 45 
gallons. If you have not that quantity, add 
spirit of the same strength to make it up. 
Then add 90 gallons sugar synip 32° Baume. 
When you have not used peach flowers in the 
distillation, take 2 pounds orris root powder, 
and steep it in 2 gaUons alcohol 95 per cent, 
for 15 days ; then filter, and add it to the mix- 
ing, not to the distillation. 

802. Boitard's Anisette. Charge of 
the still, water-bath : 20 pounds green anise 
(washed in river water), 3 pounds star anise 
(being careful to break the stars only), 1 
pound coriander seed (bruised), 40 gallons 95 
per cent, alcohol. Put the above into the 
water-bath with 4 gallons water, and distill. 
After distilling 35 gallons, add 10 gallons of 
water to bring off the faints, which may be 
distilled again. The first 5 gallons of faints 
may be added to the distilled spirit, which 
wiU give 40 gallons aromatized alcohol. Ee- 
duce this to 80 per cent, by adding, say 5 
gallons disthled water, and then add 90 gal- 
lons fine white sugar syrup, 31° Baume. This 
will give 135 gallons fine anisette. 

803. Chauvet's Anisette. Charge of 
the still, water-bath : 20 pounds green anise, 
1-i- pounds coriander seed, 2 drachms neroli, 
71 pounds star anise (break the stars only), 1-^ 
pounds orris root powdered, 40 gallons 95 per 
cent, alcohol. Treat precisely as in the last 
receipt. Eeduce the perfumed alcohol to 82 
per cent, by adding 4 gallons water, and fur- 
ther add 1^ gallons double orange flower wa- 
ter, and 90 gallons white syrup 31° Baume. 
Stir well and let it rest 5 to 8 days, then filter 
through blotting paper. This will give 135 
gallons superfine anisette. 



804. Marasquino di Zara. Charge of 

the still, water-bath : 18 pounds raspberries, 
6 pounds orange flowers, 12 pounds sour red 
cherries (Morello). Mash the whole to a pulp 
with stones, macerate 24 hours with 7 gallons 
95 per cent, alcohol and 7 gallons of water. 
Distill from off the water, 6 gallons flavored 
alcohol, and add 14 gallons of the whitest 
plain syrup about 34°'Baume. 

805. Malliorca d'Espagne. Charge of 
the still, water-bath : 40 gaUons 55 per cent, 
alcohol, 18 pounds green anise seed, 5 gallons 
river water. Put into the water-bath only 20 
gaUons of the alcohol, and 5 gallons river wa- 
ter. "When 18 gallons are distilled off, add 
the remaining 20 gallons of alcohol, and con- 
tinue the distillation until 18 gallons more are 
obtained, which mix with the 18 gallons previ- 
ously obtained, and add one drachm of ether to 
give it age. 

806. Elixir Vegetal de la Grande 
Chartreuse. Macerate 640 parts by weight, 
each, of the fresh herb of sweet balm and 
hyssop, 320 parts of fresh root of angelica, 160 
of cannella, and 40 each of Spanish saffron 
and mace, in 10,000 parts of alcohol, for eight 
days. Then distill it onto a certain quantity 
(which varies according to the color desired) 
of fresh balm and hyssop ; after a time these 
are expressed, the liquor sweetened with 1250 
parts of sugar, and filtered. 

807. Fining with Isinglass for Cor- 
dials. Take half an ounce of the best isin- 
glass, and dissolve it over a gentle fire, in a 
pint of water slightly seasoned with good 
vinegar, or three tea-spoonfuls of lemon juice. 
Beat it from time to time, adding a little of 
the seasoned water. When you obtain a com- 
plete solution, gradually add the foaming li- 
quid to the cordial, sthring all the while. 
Then stir for 15 minutes after it is all added, 
and let it rest for 3 days ; by that time the 
cordial will be bright and clear. The above 
quantity is sufficient to clarify 25 gallons of 
cordial. 

808. Fining with Eggs for Cordials. 
Take the whites of 4 eggs, beat them to a stiff 
froth, add a Little alcohol, and mix it gradually 
with 20 gallons of cordial, stirring all the 
while, and it will soon clarify the liquor. 

809. Fining with Potash for Cor- 
dials. 2 ounces of carbonate of potash (salts 
of tartar), dissolved in a quart of water, is 
sufficient to settle 20 gallons of cordial ; add 
and stir as directed above. 

810. Fining with Alum for Cordials. 
6 drachms of powdered calcinated alum, dis- 
solved in alcohol, is sufficient to clarify 20 
gallons of cordial; add as directed above. 

811. Filter Bags for Cordials. The 
filter bags used for rendering cordials trans- 
parent are made of flannel, felt, Canton flannel, 
and other materials, according to the thickness 
or density of the liquor, and are generally of a 
conical shape, In order to perform the oper- 
ation of filtering cordials thoroughly, it is 
necessary that there should be placed inside 
of each bag 1 or 2 sheets of filtering paper 
prepared as follows : Eub each sheet of paper 
until it becomes soft and flimsy, like a piece 
of cloth, then tear it in small pieces and place 
it in a pail, pour over it a little boiling water, 
and rub and beat it up until it becomes a soft 
pulp; afterwards add more water, and continue 



BITTERS. 



93 



the same as if you were beating np eggs. 
"When the pulp assumes the appearance of a 
fine paste, fill up the pail with water and 
throw the contents into the filter ; as soon as 
the water has run through, fill up the filter 
again so as to keep it full. When the liquid 
runs clear and limpid let it all run through, 
and commence filtering the cordial, being 
careful to keep the filter always full. If the 
liquor does not run clear, add about 2 ounces 
of granulated animal charcoal (sifted and 
fanned from the dust) to each filter. The 
charcoal should be washed with a little mmi- 
atic acid before being used. 

812. The Aroma of Cordials. It re- 
quires a great deal of experience to combine 
difierent perfumes to produce any certain re- 
quired aroma, a knowledge is necessary of 
the efiect produced by perfumes in combina- 
tion. The mere facts laid down in receipts 
will not be sufficient for a liquor manufacturer ; 
he must know just what, and how much of it 
to use, to counteract what is objectionable, 
and produce or increase the correct aroma. 
He will frequently find that a single aromatic 
perfume fails to give the efi'ect he anticipated; 
and yet the addition of a mere atom of some 
other perfume may be all that is required. 
Thus, the flavor of star-auise is accompanied 
by a slight, but objectionable odor of bed- 
bugs ; a very small addition of green anise 
and fennel counteracts this. Ambergris, 
alone, gives scarcely any perfume, but musk 
brings it out. The quince has a peculiar 
taste which is corrected by cloves ; the after- 
taste of cinnamon ib also destroyed by cloves ; 
vanilla has more flavor if pounded with sugar 
than when ground with it. Absinthe requires 
the aest of the lemon to take away its naturally 
bitter taste. These examples will show that 
considerable experience is needed to be able 
to blend perfumes with any degree of success. 
{See No. 767.) 

813. Imitation Peach. Brandy. Take 
i gallon honey dissolved in water ; 3f gallons 
alcohol; ^ gallon Jamaica rum; 1 ounce 
catechu, bruised to a paste ; 1 ounce acetic 
ether. Add water to make 10 gallons, fla- 
vored with 4 ounces of bitter almonds. ]S"o 
coloring required. 



Bitters, Bitters are considered as 
tonic and stomachic, and to improve 
the appetite when taken in moderation. The 
best time is early in the morning, or an hour 
before meals. An excessive use of bitters 
tends to weaken the stomach. They should 
not be taken for a longer period than a fort- 
night at one time, allowing a similar period 
to elapse before again having recourse to 
them. 

815. To Make French Cognac Bit- 
ters. Take 1^ pounds each red Peruvian 
bark, calisaya bark, bitter orange peel, and 
sweet orange peel ; 2 ounces calamus root ; 4 
ounces cardamom seeds ; 1^ ounces each cin- 
namon, cloves, and nutmegs ; 4 ounces cara- 
way seed, and 3 pounds wild cherry bark. 
Pound all these ingredients to a coarse powder 
and steep for 15 days in 45 gallons proof 
spirit (or 60 gallons spirit 25 below proof). 



stirring occasionally. Then rack it ofi", and 
mix sufficient caramel {see No. 694) to make 
it a dark red; add 15 pounds white sugar dis- 
solved in 15 gallons water; let the whole 
settle, then filter. If the bitters are required 
to be of an amber color, omit the wild cherry 
bark and the caramel coloring. 

816. To Make Angostura Bitters. 
Take 4 ounces gentian root ; 10 ounces each 
calisaya bark, Canada snake-root, Tirginia 
snake-root, liquorice root, yellow bark, allspice, 
dandelion root, and Angostura bark ; 6 ounces 
cardamom seeds; 4 ounces each balsam of tolu, 
orangetis, Turkey rhubarb, and galanga ; 1 
pound orange peel ; 1 pound alkanet root ; 1^ 
ounces caraway seed ; 1^ ounces cinnamon ; 5 
ounce cloves; 2 ounces each nutmegs, coriander 
seed, catechu, and wormwood ; 1 ounce mace; 
1|- pounds red saunders, and 8 ounces curcuma. 
Pound these ingredients and steep them as in 
the last receipt, in 50 gallons spmt ; and, be- 
fore filtering, add 30 pounds honey. 

817. Amazon Bitters. Take 90 gal- 
lons plain proof spirit ; 3f pounds red Peru- 
vian bark ; 3J pounds calisaya bark ; \^ 
pounds calamus root ; 4f pounds orange peel ; 
35 ounces cinnamon; 3| ounces cloves; 35 oun- 
ces nutmeg; 2 ounces cassia buds ; 65 pounds 
red saunders. First mash all the ingredients, 
put them in the spirit, and let them infuse 14 
days, being careful to stir the mixtm-e well 
twice every day. Then rack ofi" and color 
with 11 pints brandy coloring, to get a dark 
red tint. Stir ^ hour. Dissolve 30 pounds 
white sugar in 30 gallons water; add, and 
again stir 5 hoar. Let the mixture rest 4 or 5 
days, and when bright, bottle. If the red 
saunders is not used, the color will be a bright 
amber. This is the finest bitters in the 
market. Compounded according to the above 
directions, the dealer will obtain 120 gallons 
25 below proof. 

818. Boker's Bitters. Take I5 ounces 
quassia; I5 ounces calamus; I5 ounces 
catechu (powdered) ; 1 ounce cardamom ; 2 
ounces dried orange peel. Macerate the 
above 10 days in 5 gallon strong whiskey, and 
then filter and add 2 gallons water. Color 
with mallow, or malva flowers. 

819. Stoughton Bitters. To 12 pounds 
dry orange peel, 3 pounds Tirginia snake- 
root, 1 pound American saflron, 16 pounds 
gentian root, add 1 pound red saunders. 
Grind all the above ingredients to a coarse 
powder, and macerate for 10 days in 20 gal- 
lons 65 per cent, alcohol, then filter. 

820. Stoughton Bitters. (Another 
Receipt.) 2 pounds ginsing; 2 pounds gen- 
tian root; I5 pounds dry orange peel; 2 
pound Tirginia snake-root ; 1 ounce quassia ; 
\ pound cloves ; 3 ounces red saunders wood ; 
3 gallons alcohol 95 per cent.; 3 gallons soft 
water. Grind all the ingredients to coarse 
powder, infuse 10 davs, and filter. 

821. Wild Cherry Bitters. Take of 
wild cherry bark, 4 pounds ; squaw vine 
(Partridge berry), 1 pound ; Juniper berries, 
8 ounces. Pour boihng water over the above 
and let it stand for 24 hours ; strain, and pour 
again boiling water on the ingredients; let 
it macerate for 12 hours, then express and 
filter through paper, so that the whole will 
make 5 gallons, to which add of sugar, 3| 
pounds; molasses, I2 gallons; tincture of 



94. 



CIDER 



peach kernels. 6 ounces ; tincture of prickly 
ash berries, 3 ounces; alcohol, 2 quarts. 

822. To Make Peruvian Bitters. 
Take 8 ounces red Peruvian bark ; 8 ounces 
orange peel; Ig drachms each cinnamon, cloves, 
and nutmeg; and 75 cayenne pepper seeds. 
Infuse them, well bruised, in 8 gallons proof 
spirits, for 15 to 20 days, stirring every day. 
Draw off and filter. 

823. Brandy Bitters. Grind to coarse 
powder 3 pounds gentian root, 2 pounds dry 
orange peel, 1 pound cardamom seeds, 2 ounces 
cinnamon, 2 ounces cochineal. Infuse 10 
days in 1 gallon brandy, 8 gallons water, and 
filter. 

824. Nonpareil Bitters. Grrind to 
coarse powder 2 ounces Peruvian bark, J 
ounce sweet orange peel, k ounce bitter 
orange peel, 25 grains cinnamon, 25 grains 
cloves, 25 grains nutmeg, 15 cayenne seeds. 
Infuse ten days in 2 gallons 65 per cent, alco- 
hol, then filter. 

825. Spanish Bitters. Grrind to coarse 
powder 5 ounces polypody, 6 ounces calamus 
root, 8 ounces orris root, 22 ounces coriander 
seed, 1 ounce centaurium, 3 ounces orange 
peel, 2 ounces German camomile flowers; 
then macerate with 4f gallons 95 per cent, 
alcohol and add 5^ gallons water and I5 
ounces of sugar. Filter and color brown. 

826. Aromatic Bitters. Macerate 2f 
pounds ground dried small orange apples, ^ 
pound ground dried orange peel, 2 ounces 
ground dried calamus root, 2 ounces ground 
dried pimpineUa root, 1 ounce ground dried 
cut hops, for 14 days, with 10 gallons of spirit 
at 45 per cent.; press, and add 21 pints brown 
sugar syrup. Filter. Color dark brown. 

827. Stomach Bitters. Grind to a 
coarse powder 2 pound cardamom seeds, i 
pound nutmegs, J pound grains of Paradise, k 
pound cinnamon, ^ pound cloves, J pound 
ginger, J pound galanga, ^ pound orange peel, 
J pound lemon peel ; then macerate with 4f 
gallons 95 per cent, alcohol, and add a syrup 
made of 41 gallons water and 12 pounds sugar; 
then filter. 

828. Hamburg Bitters. Grind to a 
coarse powder 2 ounces agaric, 5 ounces cin- 
namon, 4 ounces cassia buds, \ ounce grains 
of Paradise, 3 ounces quassia wood, f ounce 
cardamom seeds, 3 ounces gentian root, 3 
ounces orange apples dried, 1§ ounces orange 
peel ; macerate with 4^ gallons 95 per cent, 
alcohol, mixed with 5|- gallons water ; add 2f 
ounces acetic ether. Color brown. 

829. Bitters made with Essences. 
40 gallons proof spirit, 1 drachm oil of anise, 
1 drachm oil of caraway, 5 drachm oil of 
cloves, 1 drachm oil of lemon, 1 drachm oil of 
oranges, 1 drachm oil of cinnamon, k drachm 
oil of bitter almonds, 1 gallon sugar syrup. 
Cut the oils in 95 per cent, alcohol, and mix. 
Color with brandy coloring. 

830. Bitter Filter. A fine bitter filter 
may be made according to fig. 5, No. 17. 

831. Orange Bitters. Macerate 6 pounds 
orange peel for 24 hours with 1 gallon water, 
cut the yellow part of the peel from off the 
white, and chop it fine ; macerate with 4f 
gallons 95 per cent, alcohol for two weeks, 
or displace {see No. 41); then add a syrup 
made of 4^ gallons water and 16 pounds sugar. 
Filter through Canton flannel. 



Cid.er. To make good cider the ap- 
ples should be allowed to hang on the 
tree as long as the wind and frosty nights 
will let them. The riper they are, the better 
the cider. They are picked up and placed 
in a large heap, either in the orchard or at the 
cider mill, and are allowed to lie a few days 
to complete the ripening process, in which 
the starch is converted into sugar, and if any 
are found bruised or rotten, put them in a 
heap by themselves, for an inferior cider to 
make vinegar. They are then rasped or 
ground into pulp. If the weather is cool and 
the apples are not quite ripe, it is better to 
let the pulp remain in the vat a few days be- 
fore pressing out the juice. This gives the 
cider a higher color, makes it sweeter, and of 
better flavor. 

833. To Press the Apples. The pro- 
cess of pressing is simple, but requires some 
skill. 4 boards about 6 inches wide are 
nailed together in a square, the size it is 
desired to make the cheese, say from 4 to 5 
feet. This is placed on the bottom of the 
press, and a little clean rye or wheat straw, 
pulled out straight into bundles, is put inside, 
with the ends extending about a foot all 
around. The pulp is then put into this rim, 
forming a layer about 6 inches thick; the 
straw is then turned on it, and a little pulp 
placed on the straw to keep it down. The 
rim is then lifted and a stick is placed at each 
comer on the layer of pulp added, and the 
straw turned over it as before. This process 
is repeated until the cheese is as large as de- 
sired, using say from 75 to 100 bushels of ap- 
ples, l^^hen they can be obtained use hair 
cloths instead of straw, to place between the 
layers of pomace. The straw, when heated, 
gives a disagreeable taste to the cider. 

834. Sweet or TJnfermented Cider. 
The cider will commence to flow at once, and 
it is better to let the cheese settle down some- 
what before turning the screw. If pressed 
too much at first, the pulp may burst out at 
the sides. As the cider runs from the press, 
let it pass through a hair- sieve into a large 
open vessel, that wiR hold as much juice as 
can be expressed in one day. The cheese is 
generally allowed to remain under the press 
all night, and before leaving it in the evening, 
the screw is turned as tight as possible. In 
the morning additional pressure is given, and 
when the cider has ceased to flow, the screw 
is turned back, the boards taken off, and the 
corners of the cheese are cut ofi" with a hay 
knife and the pomace laid on the top. The 
pressure is again applied, and the cider will 
flow freely. As soon as it ceases, remove the 
pressure and cut off 4 or 5 inches of pomace 
from the sides of the cheese, place it on top, 
and apply the pressure again as long as any 
cider will flow. 8 bushels of good apples will 
make a barrel of cider. In a day, or some- 
times less, the pomace will rise to the top, 
and in a short time grow very thick ; when 
little white bubbles break through it, draw off 
the liquor by a spigot placed about 3 inches 
from the bottom, so that the lees may be left 
quietly behind. The cider is usually put in 
barrels at once, and sold while sweet. 

835. To Preserve Cider. Strictly 
speaking, we suppose the sweet juice of the 



CIDEB. 



95 



apple is not cider, any more than the sweet 
juice of the grape is wine. It is converted 
into cider by fermentation. Those who pre- 
fer sweet cider resort to various methods for 
arresting this process, such as putting a hand- 
ful of powdered clay into each barrel, or 2 or 
3 pounds of well burned charcoal. Others 
add a little mustard seed, about a gill of seed 
to each barrel. Sometimes a few gallons of 
cider are placed in the barrel, and then a rag 
dipped in brimstone is attached to a long ta- 
pering bung; this is ignited and the bung 
loosely inserted. After the brimstone is con- 
sumed, the barrel is rolled until the cider has 
absorbed the sulphurous acid gas. The barrel 
is then tilled up with cider. The sulphurous 
acid gas acting on the albuminous matter in 
the cider arrests fermentation. The objection 
to this nic-thod is that, if too much gas is ab- 
sorbed, it may prove unpleasant, if not inju- 
rious. To obviate this, sulphite of lime is 
now used, which has the property of checking 
feiTuentation, making the cider perfectly clear, 
and imparting an agreeable taste. "We have 
tasted cider preserved in this way that was 
excellent, and we have also tasted some that 
was execrable ; but this may have been more 
the fault of the material than of the method. 
"When the cider in the baiTel is in a lively fer- 
mentation, add as much white sugar as will 
be equal to ^ or I pound to each gallon of 
cider (according as the apples are sweet or 
sour), let the fermentation proceed until the 
liquid has the taste to suit, then add ^ ounce 
of sulphite (not sulphate) of lime to each 
gallon of cider ; shake well, and let it stand 3 
days, and bottle for use. The sulphite should 
first be dissolved in a quart or so of cider 
before introducing it into the ban-el of cider. 
Agitate briskly and thoroughly for a few 
moments, and then let the cider settle. The 
fermentation will cease at once. "When, after 
a few days, the cider has become clear, draw 
off and bottle carefully, or remove the sedi- 
ment and return to the original vessel. If 
loosely corked, or kept in a barrel on draught, 
it will retain its taste as a stiU cider. If pre- 
served in bottles carefully corked, which is 
better, it will become a sparkling cider, and 
may be kept indefinitely long. {See JSlos. 762 
^-c.) Some think that cider, when treated by 
this method, is liable to induce cramps and 
loss of appetite, but we have never experienced 
any such unpleasant results from its use. 
Another plan, which, however, we have not 
tried, but is strongly recommended, is to mix 
1 pint of hard-wood ashes (hickory is best) 
and 1 pint fresh slaked lime with 1 quart of 
new milk ; this mixture is to be stirred into 
each open barrel of cider; after remaining 
quiet for about 10 hours the pomace will rise 
to the sm-face, and may be skimmed off; the 
clear cider can be drawn off by means of a fau- 
cet inserted near the bottom of the barrel ; it 
is advisable to strain it as it is drawn off", to 
separate any hardened pomace that may re- 
main in it. (See Xos. 852 and 853.) What- 
ever method be adopted, the cider must be 
drawn off' into very clean, sweet casks, and 
closely watched. The moment white bubbles 
are perceived rising at the bung-hole, rack it 
again. When the fermentation is completely 
at an end, fill up the cask with cider in all 
respects like that already contained in it, and 



bung it up tight. The most perfect plan foi 
excluding all action of the air from the sur- 
face of the cider, and preserving it sweet, ia 
the addition of a tumbler of sweet oil before 
finally closing the bung-hole. It is not an 
easy matter to keep cider sweet and pure for 
any length of time, especially if the weather 
is warm. If the cider is not made until just 
before winter sets in, and can afterwards be 
kept at or near the freezing point, it will re- 
main sweet and excellent. 

836. Rules for Making Good Pure 
Cider. Always choose perfectly ripe and 
sound fruit. 

Pick the apples from the tree by hand. 
Apples that have been on the ground any 
length of time contract an earthy flavor, 
which will always be found in the cider. 

After sweating, and before being ground, 
wipe them dry, and if any are found bruised, 
or rotten, put them in a heap by themselves, 
from which to make an inferior cider for 
vinegar. 

As fast as the apples are ground, the pomace 
should beplacedin ai)reviously prepared open 
vat, of suitable size, and with a false bottom, 
strainer, or clean straw aboutit. Letthepomace 
remain about one day, then draw off, return 
the first, and continue to do so until it runs 
clear. Let the juice percolate or filter for 
one or more days. The cider thus extracted 
will compare closely with any clear, rich 
syrup, and is alone deserving the name of 
temperance cider, and may be drank, or used 
for many purposes, as a choice and superior 
article. In this way, about one-third of the 
cider will separate ; the balance may then be 
expressed by the use of the press. 

To press out the juice, use a clean strainer 
cloth inside the curb, with some clean straw 
intermixed in thin layers with the pomace, 
and apply the power moderately. 

As the cider runs from the vat or press, 
place it in a clean, sweet cask or open tub, 
which should be closely watched, and as soon 
as the little bubbles commence to rise at the 
bung-hole or top, it should be racked off by a 
spigot or faucet placed about 2 inches from 
the bottom, so that the lees or sediment may 
be left quietly behind. 

The vinous fermentation will commence 
sooner or later, depending chiefly upon the 
temperature of the apartment where the 
cider is kept; in most cases, during the first 3 
or 4 days. If the fermentation begins early 
and proceeds rapidly, the liquor must be 
racked or drawn off and put into fresh casks 
in 1 or 2 days ; but if this does not take place 
at an early period, but proceeds slowly, three 
or four days may elapse before it is racked. In 
general, it is necessary to rack the liquor at 
least twice. If, notwithstanding, the fermen- 
tation continues briskly, the racking must be 
repeated, otherwise the vinous fermentation, 
by proceeding too far, may terminate in acetous 
fermentation, when vinegar will be the result. 
In racking off the liquor, it is necessary to 
keep it free from sediment, and the scum or 
yeast produced by the fermentation. "WTien 
the fermentation is completely at an end, fill 
up the cask with cider in all respects like that 
contained in it, and bung it up tight, previous 
to which a tumbler of sweet oil may be 
poured into the bung-hole, which will exclude 



96 



CIDER. 



the oxygen and prevent the oxidation of the 
surface of the wine. 

Sound, well made cider, that has been pro- 
duced as above directed, and without any 
foreign mixtures, is a pleasant, cooling and 
wholesome beverage ; while, on the contrary, 
the acids and drugs added to ah-eady impure 
liquor, retard fermentation, thus adding poison 
to poison, producing colic, and notunfrequently 
incurable obstructions. 

837. To Make Good Fermented Cider. 
To make good fermented cider that will keep 
a year or iiiore without turning too sour to be 
used for anything but vinegar, is not a diffi- 
cult matter. The first thing is to exclude all 
decayed fruit, but it should be quite ripe. 
!N"ot '^a drop of water should be used in the 
process of manufacture. The sweeter the 
juice, the stronger the cider, and the better it 
will keep. Put the barrel immediately in a 
cool cellar — the cooler the better. The fer- 
mentation may go on slowly or rapidly, prac- 
tice differing in this respect. In the former 
case the liquid is treated in all respects like 
wine. The cask has a bung in which is fixed, 
air-tight, a tin tube bent at right angles, or a 
piece of india-rubber tube. The free end of 
the tube in either case dips into a vessel of 
water. This arrangement allows the gases 
liberated in fermentation to pass out, and the 
end of the tube being cove:-ed with water, air 
cannot pass in. The bubbling of the gas 
through the water shows how the fermenta- 
tion is progressing. When this has ceased, 
the cider is racked off into clean casks, which 
are to be full and bunged tightly. Much of 
the excellence of cider depends upon the tem- 
perature at which the fermentation is con- 
ducted; a point utterly overlooked by the 
manufacturers of this liquor. Instead of the 
apple juice, as soon as it is expressed from the 
fruit, being placed in a cool situation, where 
the temperature should not exceed 50° or 52° 
Fahr., it is frequently left exposed to the fuU 
heat of autumn. In this way much of the 
alcohol formed by the decomposition of the 
sugar is converted into vinegar, by the absorp- 
tion of atmospheric oxygen, and thus the 
liquor acquires that pecuhar and unwhole- 
some acidity known as " hardness '^ or 
"roughness.^' "When, on the contrary, the 
fermentation is conducted at a low tempera- 
tm-e, nearly the whole of the sugar is con- 
verted into alcohol, and this remains in the 
liquor, instead of undergoing the process of 
acetification. 

838. To Make Fine Cider by An- 
Dtlier Process. After obtaining the juice 
is already directed (see No. 836), strain it 
'hrough a coarse hair-sieve into open vats or 
close casks. When the liquor has imdergone 
the proper fermentation in these close vessels, 
which may be best effected in a temperatm-e 
of from 40° to 55° Fahr., and which may be 
known by its appearing tolerably clear, and hav- 
ing a vinous sharpness upon the tongue, any 
further fermentation must be stopped by rack- 
ing off the pure part into open vessels, exposed 
for a day or two in a cool situation. After 
this the liquor must again be put into casks 
and kept in a cool place during winter. The 
proper time for racking may always be known 
by the brightness of the liquor, the discharge 
of the fixed air, and the appearance of a thick 



crust formed of fragments of the reduced 
pulp. The liquor should always be racked 
off anew, as often as a hissing noise is heard, 
or as it extinguishes a lighted match held to 
the bung-hole. When a favorable vinous 
fermentation has been obtained, nothing more 
is required than to fill up the vessels every 
two or three weeks, to supply the waste by 
fermentation. By the begiiining of March 
the liquor wiH be bright and pure, and fit for 
final racking, which should be done in fair 
weather. When the bottles are filled, they 
should be set by, uncorked, till morning, wheu 
the corks must be driven in tightly, secured 
by wire or twine and melted resin, or any 
similar substance. 

839. To Prepare Casks for Cider. 
Cider should never be put into new casks 
without previously scalding them with water 
containing salt, or with water in which pomace 
has been boiled. Beer casks should never be 
used for cider, or cider casks for beer. Wine 
and brandy casks will keep cider well, if the 
tartar adhering to their sides is first carefully 
scraped off and the casks be well scalded. 
Burning a little sulphur in a cask will effectu- 
ally remove must. 

840. Canned Cider. Cider may be pre- 
served sweet for years, by putting it up in 
air-tight cans after the manner of preserving 
fruit. The cider should be first settled and 
racked off from the dregs, but fermentation 
should not be allowed to commence before 
canning. 

841. To Cleanse Cider Barrels. Take 
lime water and a trace chain and put them ia 
the barrel through the bung-hole, first secur- 
ing a strong twine to the chain to draw it out 
with. Then shake the baiTel about until the 
chain wears or scours off aD. mould or pomace 
remaining in the barrel. Then rinse well with 
water ; after throwing out the rinsing water 
put in a little whiskey, turning the barrel to 
iDring it in contact with every part, and pour 
out all you can. 

842. To Clarify and Improve Cider. 
Cider should be stored in a cool place, ana 
should not be drunk before it becomes suffi- 
ciently matured. To improve the flavor of a 
hogshead of cider, 1^ gallons of good brandy 
or rum are frequently added, with 2 ounces 
powdered catechu (dissolved in water), 7 
pounds good moist sugar or honey, ^ ounce 
each bitter almonds and cloves, and 4 ounces 
mustard seed. These must be well stin-ed in, 
and occasionally stin-ed up for a fortnight, 
after which it must be allowed to repose for 
3 or 4 months, when it will usually be found 
as bright as wine. Should this not be the 
case it must be fined with a pint of isinglass 
finings, or a dozen eggs, and in 2 weeks more 
it will be fit for use. "if the cider be preferred 
pale, omit the catechu, and instead of the isin- 
glass, fine with 1 quart of skimmed milk. If 
wanted of a light reddish or rose tint, use \ 
ounce cochineal, and omit the catechu. 

843. To Bottle Cider. Preparatory to 
bottling cider it should be examined to see 
whether it is clear and sparkling; if not, it 
should be clarified again, and left for two 
weeks. The night before it is intended to be 
put into bottles, the bung should be left out 
of the cask, and left so until the next day, 
when it may be bottled, but not corked down 



BREWING 



97 



until the day after, as, if this be done at once, 
many of the bottles will burst by keeping. 
The best corks and champagne bottles should 
be used, and it is usual to wire and cover the 
corks with tin-foil, after the manner of cham- 
pagne. A few bottles may be kept in a warm 
place to ripen, or a small piece of lump sugar 
may be put into each bottle before corking, if 
wanted for immediate use, or for consumption 
during the cooler portion of the year ; but for 
warm weather and for long keeping this is 
inadmissable. The bottled stock should be 
stored in a cool cellar, where the quality will 
be greatly improved by age. 

844. Champagne Cider. Good cider, 
pale, 1 hogshead ; spirit, 3 gallons ; honey or 
sugar, 20 pounds. Mix and let them rest 
for 2 weeks, then fine with skimmed milk, 
•J gallon. This will be very pale ; and a 
similar article, when bottled in champagne 
bottles, and silvered and labeled, has been 
often sold to the ignorant for champagne. It 
opens very brisk if managed properly. 

845. iFlne Champagne Cider is made 
as follows : — To 100 gallons of good cider put 
3 gallons of strained honey, or 24 pounds of 
good white sugar. Stir well and set it aside 
i^)\: a week. Clarifv the cider with half a gal- 
lon of skimmed milk, or ^ pound of dissolved 
isinglass, and add 4 gallons of pure spirits. 
After 2 or 3 days bottle the clear cider, and it 
will become sparkling. In order to produce 
a slow fermentation, the casks containing the 
fermenting liquor must be bunged up tight. 
It is a great object to retain much of the car- 
bonic gas in the cider, so as to develop itself 
after being bottled. 

846. Champagne Cider. (Another re- 
ceipt.) 10 gallons of cider, old and clear. 
Put it in a strong iron-bound cask, pitched 
inside (like beer-casks) ; add 2^ pints clarified 
white plain syrup ; then dissolve in it 5 ounces 
tartaric acid ; keep the bung ready in hand, 
then add 7^ ounces of bicarbonate of potassa ; 
bung it as quickly and as well as possible. 

847. To Imitate Champagne Cider. 
Cider will resemble champagne if you put 
a tea-spoonful carbonate of soda, 2 tea-spoon- 
fuls fine sugar, and a table- spoonful brandy in 
a tumbler, and fill it up with shai-p cider. 

848. How to Imitate Cider. A very 
fair imitation cider may be produced by using 
the following receipt : — 25 gallons soft water ; 
2 pounds tartaric acid; 25 pounds Xew Or- 
leans sugar ; 1 pint yeast. Put all the ingre- 
dients into a clean cask and stir them up well 
after standing 24 hours with the bung out. 
Then bung the cask up tight, add 3 gallons 
spirits, and let it stand 48 hours, after which 
time it will be ready for use. 

849. To Imitate Sweet Cider. Take 
water, 100 gallons ; honey, 5 gallons ; catechu 
powdered, 3 ounces ; alum, 5 ounces ; yeast, 2 
pipts. Ferment for 15 days in a warm place 
(in the sun if possible) ; then add bitter 
almonds, \ pound; cloves, 5 pound; burnt 
sugar, 2 pints ; whiskey, 3 gallons. If acid 
be in excess, correct by adding honey or 
sugar. If too sweet, add sulphuric acid to 
suit the taste. We should prefer to add cider 
vinegar for acidulating when necessary. 

850. Cheap Imitation Cider. Take 
water, 35 gallons ; sulphuric acid, enough to 
make the water pleasantly sour ; brown sugar, 



50 pounds ; alum, 4 ounces ; ginger, 5 ounces ; 
cloves, 5 ounces; bitter almonds, 6 ounces. 
Boil the last 4 ingredients in 2 gallons of the 
water for 2 hours, strain, and add this decoc- 
tion to the other water. Burnt sugar may be 
added, to color, if wished. From 3 to 4 gal- 
lons of whiskey, if mixed with it, will give 
more body. It is generally knowi, we sup- 
pose, that bisulphite of lime may be advan- 
tageously employed in fresh cider to stop its 
conversion to vinegar. {See No. 835.) 

851. Cheap-made Cider. Take of good 
cider and water, 1 hogshead each ; molasses, 
50 pounds ; alum, dissolved, i pound. Brim- 
stone matches to stop fermentation, by burning. 

852. To Keep Cider Sweet. Allow 
the cider to work until it has reached the state 
most desirable to the taste, then add I5 tum- 
blers gi-ated horseradish to each barrel, and 
shake up well. This arrests further fermenta- 
tion. After remaining a few weeks, rack off 
and bung up closely in clean casks. 

853. To Clear Cider. To clear and 
improve cider gejierally, take 2 quarts of 
ground horseradish and 1 pound of thick 
gray filtering paper to the barrel, and either 
shake or stir until the paper has separated 
into small shreds, and let it stand for 24 
hours, when the cider may be drawn off by 
means of a syphon or a stop-cock. Instead of 
paper, a preparation of wool may be taken, 
which is to be had in the market here, and 
which is preferable to paper, as it has simply 
to be washed with water, when it may be used 
again. 

854. To Clean a Foul, Sour Cask, and 
Restore the Taste of the Wood. In 
order to accomplish this, dissolve about 1^ 
pounds lime in 5 gallons boiling water. Rinse 
the cask to be restored with this liquid, and 
afterwards with boiling water. If the cask 
is very foul, it should also be rinsed with very 
dilute sulphuric acid after the lime water, and 
afterwards with boiling water. As a general 
thing, however, the lime water and boiling 
water are sufiicient. To restore the natural 
taste of the wood, mash up in a mortar a 
handful of juniper berries and put them in the 
tainted cask, then pour over them several gal- 
lons boiling water, roll the cask violently, and 
set it first on one end, and then upon the 
other. 

855. To Make Barrels Tight. Dis- 
solve in a water-bath 1 pound leather scraps 
and 1 ounce oxalic acid, in 2 pounds water, 
and dilute gradually with 3 pounds warm 
water. Apply this solution to the inside of 
the barrel, where, by oxidation, it will assume 
a brown color and become insoluble in alco- 
hol. This coat closes all the pores of the 
wood, and does not crack or scale off. 



Bre'Wing. The art of brewing is 
simply and easily understood, clean- 
liness and attention being the principal points 
to be considered. It consists of five opera- 
tions, namely : mashing, boiling, cooling, fer- 
menting, and cleaning. The first process is 
simply to obtain an infusion of the malt. In 
the second, this infusion of malt is further 
impregnated with the flavor of the hops in 
the boiUng, which is requisite for the preser- 



98 



BREJVIXG 



Yation of the beer. In the third, this decoc- 
tion jX infusion is cooled down to the necessary 
beat for fermentation, which is excited with 
yeast, and which fills it with carbonic gas, 
giving to the liquor that pungent taste for 
which it is esteemed. After this it is fined, 
or cleansed, to render it fit for drinking. 

857. Brewing Utensils. These uten- 
sils in a small way (say for a hogshead, or 54 
gallons of beer), will consist of a copper capable 
of containing about 70 gallons ; and if the 
brick edge at the top is made sloping, and 
covered with lead, it will prevent any waste 
of the wort in the boiling. A mash tub, with 
a false bottom about 3 inches above the other 
bottom, bored full of small holes, to prevent 
the malt stopping up the hole of the faucet. 
In many cases, for the sake of economy, an 
old worn-out birch-broom is cleaned and 
fastened before the hole of the faucet; and 
others again have two pieces of wood nailed 
together, and bored full of holes, which is 
fitted to the side of the tub, so as to cover 
the hole of the faucet. Any one of these 
contrivances is to prevent the malt or grains 
from flowing out with the wort, which would 
spoil its transparency. The tub must be suffi- 
ciently large to hold 10 or 12 bushels of malt, 
with plenty of room for mashing or stining. 
An underback, to receive the wort from the 
mash tub. An oar, or rudder, to stir up the 
malt in the mash tub. Two or three coolers. 
These should be broad and flat, that the wort 
may cool quickly ; for if the wort is too long 
cooling, it is likely to become sour in the 
coolers. These should also be raised a little 
at one end, that the wort may be run ofi" at 
the lower end without being disturbed or 
shaken, and also that the sediment which falls 
down may not be again mixed with the wort. 
A fermenting tun. The mash-tub, when 
emptied of the grains, will also serve for this 
purpose. Casks, and oak stands for the casks 
and tubs to be placed on. The whole of these 
articles should be of a suitable size with the 
copper, which the cooper will always regulate, 
or in proportion to the quantity intended to be 
brewed. 

858. MasMng'. The purpose of mash- 
ing is to convert as much of the flour of the 
malt as possible into sugar, so that the extract 
drawn from it may contain the greatest 
amount of saccharine matter which it is capa- 
ble of giving. To accomphsh this perfectly 
will depend upon many contingencies — the 
heat of the water used in mashing, its quality, 
whether hard or soft, the most perfect mixing 
of the malt with the water, and the time of 
their remaining together. High-dried malt 
does not produce so much saccharine matter 
as pale malt. On the proper temperatm-e of 
the liquor used will depend the goodness, 
flavor, and clearness of the extract drawn. 
■When too high, or near the boiling point, 
the flour of the malt will be set, form- 
ing a kind of paste or starch, and the extract 
obtained will be little better than water. The 
sm*face of the grains after the mashing process 
is concluded will be covered with specks of 
white meal. The same appearance also shows 
itself when unmalted corn has been mixed 
with the malt. If the temperature be too 
low, the wort will be poor and devoid of 
strength^ because the heat of the water is not 



sufficient to convert the flour of the malt into 
sugar, or to extract the saccharine matter 
from it. For pale malt the heat of the wa- 
ter must be higher than for brown, and so 
much the lower in proportion as the malt is 
browner. Thus, for the pale malt, the heat 
of the water for the first mash should be 178<^ 
Fahr.; for the second, 182°. Pale and ambet 
mixed, or pale malt approaching to amber, 
172° for the first mash ; second, 178°. All 
amber, the first 170° ; second, 176°. For 
very brown, or brown malt, such as is used 
for "porter, 154° for the first; second, 164°. 
TThen hard water is used, the heat in each 
case should be about 2° less. An equal por- 
tion of pale, amber, and brown, or half pale 
and half brown — fii'st heat, 160° ; second, 
166°. The time for the standing of the mash 
is from an hour and a half to two hours. In 
the summer months the mash should not 
stand so long by a quarter of an hour as it 
does in the winter. Heat the water in the 
copper to the required degree by Fahrenheit's 
thermometer. In taking the heat in the cop- 
per, if it is too hot, add cold liquor to brirg it 
to the desired degree ; but be careful to stir 
the hot and cold well together and mix it in- 
timately, because the cold water, being heav- 
ier than the lot, sirlks to the bottom. The 
heat of the water being now reduced to the 
proper degree in the tun, the malt must be 
stirred in gradually. It is best for one person 
to throw it in whilst another mixes it well 
and thoroughly by means of the oar, so that 
there may be no lumps or clots of malt left 
in it. The remainder of the water should be 
added by degrees, as the mash becomes too 
stifl'to stir, until the whole is used. Eeserve 
about 2 bushel of the malt to throw over the 
top when the mashing is finished. Cover the 
top of the tun with malt-sacks or cloths, to 
keep in the heat, and let it stand the required 
time. Turn the tap partially, to allow the 
wort to run out slowly, and draw off' s( me in 
a pail or bucket. As the first running will 
not be clear, it must be put gently back into 
the tun ; and if the second running is not 
sufficiently clear, turn the tap again, and let 
it remain a few minutes before drawing it off": 
then turn the tap partially as before, and 
draw it off" into the underback, which must be 
placed imderneath to receive it. As the wort 
runs out more slowly, the tap must be turned 
more fully, until the whole is nearly run out, 
and the bed of the grains looks dry; then 
turn the tap, to prevent any more running 
off". "VThile the mash is standing, the crpper 
should be again filled with water, and heated 
to the required degree for the sec(md mash; this 
should be ready by the time the first wort is 
drawn off; then, with a bowl or ladle, pom- 
over the top of the grains, as gently as possible, 
about half as much water as for the first; 
cover the mash-tun, let it remain about ten 
minutes or a quarter of an hour, and draw it 
off as before, pouring back the first lunnirg 
until it IS fine. The wort from the first 
mashing is always the best and richest m 
saccharine or sweet matter. The proportion 
of wort to be obtained from each bushel of 
malt depends entirely on the proposed strength 
of the liquor required. To ale or beer of a 
superior kind the produce only of the first 
mashing should be used. For ordinary or 



BliE friXG 



99 



usual drinking ale, take the produce of the 
first and second niashings, mix them "w^ell, 
and ascertain the gravity by a saccharometer. 
This is an instrument used by brewers for as- 
certaining the strength of "vrort ; it is similar 
in principle to the hydrometer, but its scale 
denotes the pounds per barrel m excess of the 
■weight of a barrel of water. The barrel or 
36 gallons of water weighs 300 pounds ; and, 
in examinmg a quantity of wort, if the sac- 
charometer marks 60, it means that a barrel 
(36 gallons) of the wort would weigh CO pounds 
more than a barrel of water, or 420 pounds. 
It is a sort of specific gravity', in which 360 
is the unit instead of 1000 "• from which it 
can be seen that a saccharometer gravity of 
420, as compared with 300, would be the same 
as 1166^ true specific gravity as compared with 
1000. Some brewers express the strength of 
their wort by the whole weight of a barrel, 
others use only the excess of weight ; thus, in 
the example above, some would call it wort 
of 420 pounds, others would say 60 pounds ; 
either way is plain; the figures showing 
which plan is adopted. The usual limit for 
ale or beer is from 50 to 00 pounds, and for 
a very strong ale from 90 to 120 pounds 
per barrel. That made at the first gravity 
will be a brisk, lively and sparkling drink; 
but the last will be more heavy and glutinous, 
and can only be imperfectly fermented. 

859. Boiling. As soon as the water is 
taken from the copper for the table-beer, 
damp the fire with ashes or cinders, and put 
in the wort. For every bushel of malt used, 
allow 1 pound hops, previously soaked in wa- 
ter taken from the first mash at 160^^ of heat ; 
add half of them at first, and the other 
half after the wort has boiled half an hour. 
2 pounds of hops by this method are consid- 
ered to be equal to 3 pounds used in the 
ordinary way. The water in which they are 
steeped"^ is strained off and put into the tun 
instead of the copper, which preserves the 
flavor of the hops. Let the wort boil as 
briskly as possible, for the quicker it is boiled 
the sooner it will break. Try it occasionally 
in a glass, and see if it has separated into 
large flakes ; if it has not, boil it a little 
longer ; when nearly ready, it will appear to 
be broken into fine particles. The extremes 
of under and over-boiling must be avoided, 
for when over-boiled it is with difficulty fined 
again in the casks. 

860. Cooling-. ^WTien the wort is ready, 
damp the fire, and draw it ofl" into the cool- 
ers, keeping the hops well stirred to prevent 
their being burnt to the bottom; strain it 
through a hair-sieve to take ofl" the hops. 
The coolers should be as shallow as possible, 
that the wort may not be too long in cooling, 
or it may chance to get sour, and should be of 
the same depth in each, that it may cool 
equally. "When the first wort is drawn off", 
return the hops again into the boiler, with the 
wort for the table-beer, and let it boil 
quickly for one hour and a half; and if 
1 pound coarse sugar or molasses, and 1 
ounce salt, be added to every 10 gallons wort 
in the boihng, it will be much improved. 
When the wort has been cooled down to 75 
or 80 degrees of heat by the thermometer 
(this will depend on the state of the atmos- 
phere, for when the weather is warm it should 



be cooler), draw it off into the fermenting 
tun, without disturbing the sediment at the 
bottom, which gives the ale or beer a dis- 
agreeable taste. This is always observed by 
the Scotch brewers, but others consider that 
it feeds the beer, which it certainly does, and 
always use it ; for whether it is the oleagin- 
ous quality of the hops, or the gluten ex- 
tracted from the malt, which is precipitated 
by the boiling, it cannot be of any injury to 
the wort. If it is the first, it is of essential 
service to give the full flavor of the hops.' 
In each case it wiU be thrown off in the 
working. 

861 . Fermentation. 3 pints good white 
fresh yeast will be about the quantity required 
to work a hogshead of beer; but in larger 
brewings this will depend on the quantity 
there is in a body, the gravity, and heat of 
the atmosphere — thus, the lower the gravity, 
the greater the bulk, and the wanner the 
weather, the less yeast must be used in pro- 
portion to work it, and vice versa. 3 pints 
being sufficient for a hogshead, a gallon will 
work 4 or 5 hogsheads in a body of the same 
gravity. First mix the yeast with a gallon 
or two of the wort, and a handful or two of 
bean or wheat flour in the fermenting tun ; 
when the fennentation is brisk, pour over 
another portion, and as soon as the wort is at 
the proper degree of temperature run it into 
the tun, reserving out some of the ferment, to 
feed the beer as occasion may require. "WTien 
it becomes languid, or if there is sufficient 
yeast in, it may be left out altogether. The 
fermentation should be gradual at first ; for if 
it goes on too quickly the beer is likely to 
become foxed, that is, to have a rank and dis- 
agreeable taste. The next morning the beer 
should have a thin white creamy head ; then, 
with a bowl or ladle, weU rouse and mix it 
together. If, however, the fermentation has 
not been favorable, add some of the ferment ; 
and if rather cold, wrap some sacks or old 
carpet round the tun, and place some more 
sacks over the top ; also keep the door and 
windows closed. Or take a clean cask (the 
size according to the quantity of the gyle, or 
brewing), and fill it full of boiling liquor; 
bung it close, and put in the tun. In the 
evening rouse the head well in again; the 
next morning the beer should have what is 
termed a cauUflower-head ; remove with the 
skimmer any patches of dark-brown yeast, 
and mix it well up together again. After the 
yeast has risen to the top, it will form a thick 
yeasty appearance, which should be skimmed 
off as soon as it is inclined to fall. A portion 
should then be taken out, tried with the sac- 
charometer, and noted. If not sufficiently 
fermented, it should be tried every two hours 
until it is so, and the head may be skimmed 
off at the same time. When sufficiently re- 
duced, cleanse it into the casks. 

862. Cleansing'. In cleansing ale or 
beer, the yeast should be skimmed from the 
top, and the liquor drawn off gently, so as 
not to disturb the bottoms. The casks 
should be plugged a little on one side, that 
the yeast may work and discharge itself at 
the bung-hole. A tub or pan must be placed 
underneath to receive the yeast as it works 
over. The greatest attention should be paid 
to the filling up of the casks with the wort 



LtfC. 



100 



BBEWING 



that is left, which, should be done every half 
hour at first, and as the working becomes 
more slow, every 3 or 4 hours, that the yeast 
may continue to discharge itself, otherwise it 
will fall to the bottom, and render the beer 
harsh and unpleasant, and liable to be excited 
on every change of the weather ; but by at- 
tending to these precautions, this will be 
avoided, and the working of the beer will be 
sooner over. "Wlien the yeast has ceased to 
discharge itself, plug the casks upright, mix 
a pound of the best hops with some old ale or 
beer, and scald them in it over the fire. If 
the ale or beer is required to be drunk soon, 
this mixture should be added warm, otherwise 
add it when cold. Mix it well into the cask 
by means of a long stick, and bung the cask 
close ; make a- spile-hole near the bung, and 
put in a spile rather loosely at first, and after 
two or three days knock it in firmly. 

863. Important Hints on Brewing. 
Small beer will require rather more yeast to 
work it than strong beer or ale. A portion of 
the wort at the temperature of 85 degrees 
should be mixed at first with the yeast. 
"When the fermentation has commenced, the 
rest of the wort may be run into the tun at 
the heat of 75 degrees. It will not work so 
long nor so st]?ongly as ale, and may be casked 
the next day. Attend to the filling of the 
cask as directed for ale. In about two days 
the fermentation will have subsided, and the 
cask should then be bunged close. The fer- 
mentation will always show whether the 
degrees of heat have been well taken, and the 
extract well made. If too high, the air-blad- 
ders on the head will be about as large as a 
dollar piece. If too low, there will be few or 
no bladders, or very small ones ; but when 
well taken they will be in size about that of a 
2 cent piece. The proportions of hops used 
for beer should be in accordance with the 
time it is to be kept. If for immediate use, 3 
pounds will be sufficient for a coomb of malt 
(4 bushels). From 1 to 2 years, 4 pounds; 
old beer, 5 or 6 pounds. The same if the 
wort is very rich ; or in proportion to its 
gravity use more hops, because beer or ale 
made from rich wort is always intended for 
long keeping.. In general, 4 or 5 pounds of 
hops per coomb (4 bushels) is used for ales ; 
but for porter, 5 or 6 pounds, and for bitter 
ale, about 8 or 10 pounds; but in all cases 
care should be taken that the hops are of the 
best quahty. The private brewer will find 
about ^ pound of raspings of quassia equiva- 
lent to 6 pounds of hops for preserving ale 
and imparting a pleasant bitter. Beer brewed 
for immediate use may be made from all pale 
malt, as it is more readily fermented than that 
firom the browner sorts. It will not keep so 
well, and may be brewed almost in the hot- 
test weather, as it need not be cooled below 
70 or 75 degrees. A mixture of pale and 
amber malt should always be used for keeping 
beer, and the wort cooled down to 60 or 70 
degrees before it is put into a state of fermen- 
tation ; hence, from Autumn to Spring, or the 
months of October to March, have ever been 
deemed the most favorable months for brew- 
ing the best malt liquor, the former being 
considered the most fitted, as the beer has so 
many cold months immediately succeedmg, 
for it to lipen and grow fine in ; besides, it 



does not want such watching and tending as 
the March beer does, in putting in and taking 
out the spile or peg on every change of the 
weather. The proportion of wort to be 
obtained from every bushel of malt will de- 
pend entirely on the proposed strength of the 
liquor required. For ale or beer of a superior 
kind, the produce of the first mashing only 
should be used ; but if the ordinary or usual 
driking ale is wanted, take the produce of the 
first and second mashings, and use the third 
for table beer. 

864. Flavoring Beer. There are sev- 
eral simple and innoxious articles which can 
be used for this purpose by the private brewer — 
namely, Spanish liquorice, liquorice root, car- 
damom and caraway seeds, and dried orange 
peel powdered ; these are very excellent when 
used judiciously. Honey is also an excellent 
assistant to beer and ale ; about 2 pounds to 
a quarter (8 bushels) of malt being put into 
the copper just before the wort is turned out, 
or long enough to melt and incorporate with 
the mass. The same plan should be adopted 
with everything used for this purpose — that 
is, throwing it in when the wort is at the full 
boiling point, for then it will not fall to the 
bottom without mixing. When, however, 
Spanish liquorice is used, it will be necessary 
to tie it in a net bag and suspend it. Salt and 
ground ginger, or salt and any other spice, are 
excellent for cleansing beer. 

865. Porter Brewing for Families. 
To make this beverage, three sorts of malt 
are required, namely : pale, brown, and blown 
malt. The peculiar flavor of this liquor is 
given by the brown and blown malt, and no 
other material or ingredient whatever is re- 
quired difi'erent from other sorts of beer. 
The mixture of malt may be composed of 
half pale or amber, and half brown malt ; or, 
take for a hogshead, 4 bushels of pcle or 
amber malt, 2 of brown, and 14 pounds of 
patent blown malt, and 6 pounds of the best 
brown hops. These proportions will make 
excellent porter, but the following may be 
used for a second-rate quality : — 2^ bushels of 
amber, 1^ bushels of brown malt, and 4 
pounds of hops, with sufficient burnt sugar 
{see No. 694) to give the desired color; or it 
may be brewed with all amber malt, using 
blown malt, or sugar coloring, instead of 
the brown malt. The water for mashing 
must be lower than for beer or ale, and be 
reduced to 164 or 166 degrees for the first 
mash, according to the instructions already 
laid down. All the processes are conducted 
the same as for beer or ale, with this ex- 
ception, that blown malt is boiled with the 
wort in a copper, and the second malt, if 
boiled separate, should be boiled violently 
for 2 or 3 hours ; and as there is generally 
but one quality of porter, the two kinds oi 
wort are run together into the tun. 28 gal- 
lons of cold water may be run into the tun 
for table porter, which should be managed 
as table beer. If the color is not sufficiently 
high it may be heightened by using a pound 
of Spanish liquorice with the wort in the 
boiler, or by the addition of burnt sugar {Car- 
amel, see No. 694.) 

866. Hints on Fermentation. The 
fermentation of beer or ale is a very import- 
ant part of the process of brewing. The 



BREWING. 



101 



quantity of extract obtained from the malt 
depends greatly upon the heat of the water 
used for mashing, and on the mashing process 
being properly conducted ; but whether that 
extract be rich or poor, the flavor of the beer 
or ale, and its ultimate success in the cellar, 
depends upon the wort being properly and 
sufficiently fermented in the tun and casks. 
Fermentation increases the heat and de- 
creases the gravity of the wort, altering 
altogether its original character by a decom. 
position of its parts, or a conversion of its 
saccharine principle into alcohol, which give;i 
to it that vinous pungency for which it is 
esteemed. If the fermentation is not carried 
far enough, the abundant sweet principle of 
the wort will not be sufficiently changed to 
give it the necessary vinous taste, and it will 
be sickly and cloying, deficient of strength, 
and liable to become ropy. "When the fer- 
mentation is carried too far in the tun^ the 
vinous flavor is partly lost ; and if still lower, 
the yeast becomes, as it were, fixed in it, 
from the ale or beer having lost its natural 
energy to throw it off', and it will have a flat, 
stale, and disagreeable taste. Fretting {see 
No, 757) then ensues in the cask, and from 
being deficient of body it soon becomes sour, 
unless speedily drunk. All beer for keeping 
should be fermented in the tun to about one- 
fourth its original gravity, in a temperature 
of the gyle not exceeding 70 degrees. Light- 
er beer about one-third ; but in no case 
should it be allowed to reach so far as one- 
half. In winter, the fermentation of weak 
beer must not be carried quite so far as in the 
summei, as more unfermented matter must 
be left to nourish it in the cask during the 
cold weather, which will counteract its ripen- 
ing. Some allowance should also be made 
for the time the ale or beer is intended to be 
kept. Strong wort will bear a greater pro- 
portionate fermentation than weak wort, and 
consequently be stronger and more sparkling. 
Beer of this kind, intended to be kept, should 
be fermented so low as to ensure transparency 
and softness, with a proper degree of strength, 
for it will have time to bring itself round. 
Still, care must be taken to leave a sufficient 
quantity of unfermented matter for the supply 
of the gradual decomposition, the quantity 
left being proportionate to the time the beer 
is intended to be kept. Wort of 50 or GO de- 
grees gravity {see No. 858) will keep well for 
2 or 3 years, if reduced to two-fifths, or at least 
one-fourth. Ale is not fermented so much as 
beer, therefore a considerable portion of the 
saccharine matter still remains in the liquid, 
apparently unaltered. In conducting this 
process, both the thermometer and saccharo- 
meter must be the guide ; — the last is indis- 
pensable. The results given by these should 
ue carefully noted in a book kept for the 
pm-pose, with the heat of the atmosphere at 
the time the observations are made, which 
will serve as a guide for any future brewing. 
As soon as the head foiTQS a brown, thick, 
yeasty appearance, and is inclined to fall, it 
must be immediately skimmed off. Particular 
attention must be paid to this point. It is at 
all times better to skim it before it l)egins to 
drop, than allow it to pass again through the 
beer, which will give it a rank, disagreeable 
taste, termed '-'veast bitten;" neither will it 



fine well in the cask. After the head is 
skimmed off, a portion should then be taken 
out, tried by the saccharometer, and noted; 
and if it is not sufficiently fermented it should 
be roused well up, and skimmed every two 
hours until the required gravity is nearly at- 
tained, when it should be watched with the 
greatest attention, and cleansed with a little 
salt and bean-flour, and any other flavoring 
ingredient inay thenbe added, such as ground 
ginger, cardamom, caraway seeds, &c., and 
well mixed with it immediately it is reduced 
to the desired point. 

867. The Acetous Fermentation may 
arise from premature fermentation, through 
the mashing heat being taken too low, when it 
may commence in the tun, underback, or 
coolers. If in the mash tun, the wort will 
ferment very rapidly, and produce a large 
quantity of yeast; but of course the liquor 
will be soured, therefore less yeast will be 
required to ferment it. When the first 
mash is affected, all the subsequent ones 
will share the same fate, and no extra quantity 
of hops or boiling that may be given to it will 
restore it to a sound condition. It may also 
arise from the mashing heat being taken too 
high. When this is the case, the fermenta- 
tion is languid, the yeast head is very low, and 
appears brown or fiery, accompanied with a 
hissing noise, and occasionally it will appear 
as if boiling, A larger quantity of yeast than 
usual is necessary to be added to wort of this 
description, to force the fermentation, and to 
discharge the yeast freely, in order that as 
little as possible may remain in the Liquor, 
which would otherwise fret and become sour. 
The acetous fermentation may also arise from 
premature fermentation, either in the under- 
back or coolers; hence, fretting ensues, and 
the liquor continually generates acidity. 

868. To Correct Acidity in Beer. 
Acidity in beer may be neutralized by chalk, 
lime, alkalies, &c.; but it cannot be totally 
destroyed without spoiling the liquor. 

869. Bittern. This is an adulterating 
luixture employed by brewers to impart a 
false bitter and strength to their liquors. Boil 
4 parts Spanish liquorice in sufficient water 
until dissolved, and evaporate to the consist- 
ence of cream. Then add to it 1 part extract 
of quassia, 1 part powdered sulphate of iron, 
2 parts extract of cocculus indicus, and 8 parts 
molasses. 

870. Bitter Balls. These are used as a 
fraudulent suljstitute for hops in making beer, 
and are different in composition, to suit dif^ 
ferent kinds of malt liquor. 

For ale : 2 pounds powdered gentian, and 1 
pound extract of gentian, mixed with suffi- 
cient molasses to make a paste. Divide into ^ 
pound rolls. 

For pale ale : 1 pound crude picric acid, 3i 
pounds gi'ound chamomiles, and 5 pound grains 
of Paradise, mixed with syrup. 

For porter or stout : either of the above, 
with the addition of Ih pounds Spanish li- 
quorice softened with a little boiling water, 

871. Fining for Ale or Beer. It fre- 
quently happens that malt liquor, especially 
porter, with all the care bestowed upon it in 
brewing, will not turn out sufficiently fine to 
meet the taste and eye of the consumer, in 
which case it is usually subjected to the ope- 



102 



BBEWIXa. 



ration of clarifying. For this purpose 1 ounce 
isinglass is put into 1 quart weak vinegar, or 
still better, hard beer, and when dissolved, a 
sufficient quantity of good beer may be added 
to make it measure 1 gallon. This mixture 
is called finings, 1 to 2'~pints of vrhich is the 
proper quantity for a barrel. The method of 
using it, is to put the finings into a bucket, 
and to gradually add some of the beer, until 
the bucket is three parts full, during which 
time it is violently agitated with a whisk, and 
this is continued until a good frothy head is 
raised upon it, when it is thrown into the 
barrel of beer, and the whole well stirred up, 
by means of a large stick shoved in at the 
bung-hole. In a few days the beer will usual- 
ly become fine. 

872. To Ascertain Whether Malt 
Liquor may be Clarified by Fining. In I 
some bad sorts of beer, isinglass will have no \ 
effect. This may be ascertained beforehand, | 
by trying some in a long glass tube, or vial, i 
with a little of the finings. These should be 
well shaken together, and then set aside for a 
short time, when it will be found that the ' 
finings will rise to the top, leaving the central 
portion of the beer clear, if it be in a proper 
condition for clarifying; but if, on the con- 
trary, they sink to the bottom, and the liquor 
still keeps foul, no quantity of finings, how- 
ever great, will ever clarifv it. 

873. To Clarify Obstinate Ale. This 
latter defect may be remedied by proceeding j 
to fine it after the manner above described, 
and then adding, after the finings have been 
well rummaged up, either 1 spoonful oil of 
vitriol or gum catechu, dissolved in | pint 
warm water, again stirring well for a quarter { 
of an hour. Or 1 or 2 ounces tincture of 
catechu may be used instead, mixed with a 
little water. Either of these additions acts 
chemically on the finings, in the same wa;^ as 
good beer does, precipitatuig them along with 
the foulness, and thus brightening the liquor. 
The addition of a handful of hops, previously 
boiled for 5 minutes in a little of the beer, 
and then added to the baiTel, and the whole 
allowed to stand for a few days, before pro- 
ceeding to clarify it, will generally have the 
same effect. 

874. To Ripen Beer. The addition of 
a small lump of white sugar to each bottle of 
ale or beer, and a tea-spoonful of moist sugar 
to each bottle of porter at the time of corking, 
win render it fit for drinking in a few days in. i 
ordinary weather. A raisin or lump of sugar ! 
candy is often added to each bottle with a 
like intention. The Parisians bottle their 
beer one day, and sell it the next. For this 
purpose, in addition to the sugar as above, 
they add 2 or 3 drops of yeast. Such bottled 
liquor must, however, be dimnk within a 
week, or else stored in a very cold place, as it 
will otherwise burst tne bottles, or blow out 
the corks. 

875. To Give Beer the Appearance | 
of Age. The addition of a very little dihited j 
sulphuric acid to new beer will give it the ap- j 
pearance of being 1 or 2 years old. Copperas, I 
alum, sliced lemons, oranges, and cucumbers, | 
are also frequently employed by brewers for | 
the same pui*pose. 

876. Beer Heading. Alum and green 1 
copperas equal parts, both in fine powder; I 



mix. Or, alum, copperas, and common salt, 
of each equal parts ; mix. Used by brewer* 
to make their tjcer keep its head. 

877. To Remedy Mustiness in Beer. 
To each hogshead add 1 pound new hops 
boiled in a gallon of the liquor, along with 7 
pounds newly-burnt charcoal coarsely bruised, 
and a 4 pound loaf of bread cut into slices 
and toasted rather black; rouse well every 
day for one week, then stir in moist sugar 3- 
or 4 pounds, and bung down for 2 weeks. 

878. To Remedy Flatness in Beer. 
Stir a few pounds of moist sugar into each 
hogshead ; fermentation will ensue in a few 
days, and the liquor become brisk. On the 
small scale, the addition of a few gi-ains car- 
bonate of soda or prepared chalk to each glass 
will make the liquor brisk and carry a head ;. 
but it must be drunk within a few^ minutes, 
else it becomes again flat. This is an excel- 
lent method when home-brewed beer becomes 
sour and vapid. 

879. To Recover Frosted Beer. 
Frosted beer is best recovered by the addition 
of a few hops boiled in a little sweet wort ; or 
by adding a little moist sugar or molasses to 
induce a fresh fermentation. 

880. Foxing or Bucking Beer. Add 
some fresh hops, along with some bruised 
mustard seed, to the beer. Some persons add 
a little made mustard, or solution of alum or 
catechu, or a little diluted sulphm-ic acid, and 
stir it well ; and in a week or 10 days after- 
wards, further add some bean-flour, molasses, 
or moist sugar. 

881. To Remedy Ropiness in Beer. 
Add a little infusion of catechu and some 
fresh hops to the beer, and in a fortnight stir 
well, and the next day fine it down. 

882. German Beer Bouquet. Accord- 
ing to Dr. Boettger, this liquor consists of a 
solution of the essential oil of lemons in light 
petroleum oil, and a coarse fusel oil, containing 
spirit colored by turmeric. 

883. Spring Beer. Boil down 3 small 
bunches each of sweet fern, sarsaparilla, win- 
tergreen, sassafras, prince pine, spice wood,, 
in 8 gallons water to 6 gallons of decoction 
or extract; strain; 4 gallons of water boiled 
down to 3 gallons of decoction, with ^ pound 
hops ; strain ; mix the two extracts or decoc- 
tions together ; dissolve in them 1 gallon of 
molasses, and, when cooled to 80^ heat, 1^ 
pound of roasted bread soaked in fresh 
brewers' yeast ; fill up a 10-gallon keg ; when 
fermentation is over mix with it the white of 
1 egg beaten to froth ; bung it, and bottle 
when clear. 

884. Spruce Beer. Boil 9^ gaUons of 
water ; let it cool down to 80^ Fahr., and then 
dissolve 9 pounds of sugar in it, having pre- 
viously mixed with it 1 ounce of essence of 
spruce; then add 1 pint of good brewers' 
yeast, and pour it in a 10-gallon keg until fer- 
mentation is over; then add a handful of 
brick powder and the white of 2 eggs beateu 
to a froth ; mix with the beer, and let it stand 
till clear, then bottle. 

885. To Make White Spruce Beer. 
Dissolve 10 pounds loaf sugar in 10 gallons 
boiling water, add 4 ounces essence of spruce ; 
when nearly cold add k pint yeast. Keep in 
a warm place. jSText day strain through 
flannel, put into bottles and wire the corks. 



B RE WINC. 



103 



To Make Wood's Spruce Beer. 

Boil \ pint esseDce of spruce, 5 ounces each 
of bruised pimento and ginger, and 5 or 6 
ounces hops m 3 gallons water for 10 minutes. 
Then add 3 quarts molasses and 11 gallons 
"warm "water. "WTien lukewarm add 1 pint 
yeast ; ferment for 24 hours and bottle, as in 
last receipt. This will also make a -white 
beer by substituting an equivalent of loaf 
sugar instead of the molasses. 

887. To Make Spruce Beer. Take 

2 ounces each hops and cliips of sassafras 
root, 10 gallons "water ; boil twenty minutes, 
strain, and turn on, "while hot, 1 gallon good 
molasses, and add 2 table-spoonfuls each 
essence of ginger and essence of spruce ; 1 
table- spoonful pounded allspice. Put into a 
cask, and "when cold enough add 1 quart 
yeast ; let it stand 24 hours ; dra-w it off or 
bottle it. 

888. Essence of Spruce. Take of the 
young branches of black spruce (abies nigra), 
make a decoction "with water {see No. 34) and 
evaporate to the consistence of molasses. 
This is used for fabricating spruce beer — a 
right pleasant drink when it is fresh. 

889. Root Beer. Take sarsaparilla 
(American), 2 pounds ; spice wood, i pound ; 
guaiacum chips, I pound ; bu'ch bark, ^ pound : 
ginger, a ounce ; sassafras, 4 ounces ; prickly- 
ash bark, i ounce ; hops, 1 ounce. Boil for 
12 hours over a moderate fire, with sufficient 
water, so that the remainder shall measure 5 
gallons, to which add tincture of ginger, 8 
ounces ; oil of wintergreen, 1 ounce ; alcohol, 
1 quart. This prevents fermentation. To 
make root beer, take of this decoction 1 quart ; 
molasses, 8 ounces ; water,'2 5 gallons; yeast, 
4 ounces. This will soon ferment and pro- 
duce a good drinkable beverage. The root 
beer should be mixed, in warm weather, the 
evening before it is used, and can be kept for 
use either bottled or drawn by a common 
beer-pump. Most people prefer a small addi- 
tion of wild cherry bitters or hot drops to the 
above beer. {See Nos. 821 and 891.) 

890. Puffer's Root Beer. Prince's 
pine, 2 ounces ; wild cherry, 2 ounces ; hem- 
lock bark, 2 ounces ; wintergreen, 4 ounces ; 
sassafras bark, 4 ounces ; birch bark, 4 ounces ; 
spice bark, 4 ounces ; Jamaica ginger, 2 ounces ; 
white mustard seed, 1 ounce. Put in a per- 
colator and cover with boiling water ; let it 
stand till cold, then strain ; add to it enough 
boiling water to make 4 gallons. Take 1 gal- 
lon of this, add 1 gallon of molasses, or the 
same amount of syrup ; to this add 8 gallons 
of water and about 1 pint of yeast. 1 pint of 
alcohol added will much improve its flavor, 
and it will keep longer. 

891. Hot Drops. Take of tincture of 
myrrh, 1 ounce; tincture of capsicum, 2 
ounces. 

892. To Make Ottawa Root Beer. 
Take 1 ounce each sassafras, allspice, yellow 
dock, and wintergreen; ^ ounce each wild 
cherry bark and coriander; ^ ounce hops and 

3 quarts molasses. Pour boiling water on 
them ; macerate for 24 hours ; then filter and 
add 5 pint yeast. Add about 6 gallons water, 
or to taste. In 24 hours it is ready for use. 

893. To Make Superior Ginger Beer. 
Take 10 pounds of sugar, 9 ounces lem(m I 
juice, h pound honey, 11 ounces bruised 



ginger root, 9 gallons water, 3 piuts yeast. 
Boil the ginger half an hour in 1 gallon 
water; then add the rest of the water and the 
other ingredients, and strain it when cold. 
Add the white of an egg beaten, and | an 
ounce essence of lemon. Let it stand 4 days, 
then bottle, and it "will keep many months. 

894. To Make Ginger Beer. Put in 
to 1 gallon boiling water, 1 pound lump 
sugar, 1 ounce best unbleached Jamaica 
ginger well bruised, | ounce cream of tartai 
and 2 lemons sliced ; stir the ingredients fre- 
quently in a covered vessel until lukewarm ; 
then add I5 or 2 ounces yeast, and keep it in 
a moderately warm place so as to excite a 
brisk fermentation ; the next day rack and 
strain through flannel ; let it work for a day 
or two, then strain it again and bottle, wmng 
down the corks. 

895. Ginger Beer Without Yeast. 
Boil li pounds bruised ginger in 3 gallons 
water half an hour; then add 20 pounds 
white sugar, 1 pint lemon or lime juice, 1 
pound honey, and 17 gallons water; strain 
through a cloth. When cold add the white of 
1 Qgg, and i fluid ounce essence of lemon; 
after standing 3 or 4 days, bottle. 

896. To Make Ginger Pop. Take 5i 
gallons water, | pound ginger root bruised, | 
ounce tartaric acid, 2^ pounds white sugar, 
whites of 3 eggs well beaten, 1 small tea-spoon- 
ful lemon oil, 1 gill yeast ; boil the root for 30 
minutes in 1 gallon of the water, strain off, 
and put the oil in while hot; mix. Make over 
night ; in the morning skim and bottle, keep- 
ing out sediments. 

897. To Make Ginger Pop. Take 2 
ounces best white Jamaica ginger root, bruised; 
water, 6 quarts ; boil 20 minutes, strain, and 
add 1 ounce cream tartar, 1 pound white 
sugar; put on the fire and stir until aU the 
sugar is dissolved, and put iu an earthen jar ; 
now put in ^ ounce tartaric acid, and the rind 
of 1 lemon; let it stand until 70° Fahr., or 
until you can bear your hand in it with com- 
fort ; then add 2 table-spoonfuls of yeast, stir 
well, bottle for use and tie the corks. Make 
a few days before it is wanted for use. 

898. Wahoo Beer. Boil for 6 hours in 
4 gallons water, 1 ounce each sarsapariUa, Sol- 
omon's seal, nettle root, and sassafras; 2 
ounces each burdock root, comfrey root, and 
Prince's pine ; 2 ounces sweet fern, ^ ounce 
wintergreen, and 4 raw potatoes cut up fine. 
Strain, and add 1 quart molasses for each 3 
gallons of the strained liquor, and a bro-wned 
loaf of bread. When cool, put in 1 pint of 
good yeast, and let it ferment for 24 hours. 
It "will then be ready to be put in bottles or a 
keg. 

899. Lemon Beer. Put into a keg 1 
gallon water, 1 sliced lemon, 1 table-spoonful 
gmger, 1 pint good syrup, and 5 pint yeast. 
In 24 hours it will be ready for use. If bot- 
tled the corks must be tied down. 

900. Imperial Pop. Cream of tartar, 3 
ounces; ginger, 1 ounce; white sugar, 24 
ounces; lemon juice, 1 ounce; boifing water, 
li gallons; when cool, strain, and ferment 
with 1 ounce of yeast, and bottle. 

901. Girambing, or Limoniated Gin- 
ger Beer. Boil 4^ ounces of ginger "with 11 
quarts water ; beat up 4 eggs to a froth, and 
add them with 9 pounds sugar to the preced 



104r 



BREWING 



ing. Take 9 lemons, peel them carefully, and 
add the rind and juice to the foregoing. Put 
the whole into a barrel, add 3 spoonfuls of 
yeast, bung down the barrel, and in about 12 
days bottle it ofi. In 15 days it will be fit for 
drmking, but it improves by keeping. 

902. Ginger Beer Powders. Fine pow- 
der of Jamaica ginger, 4 or 5 drachms ; bicar- 
bonate of soda, 3^ ounces ; refined sugar in 
powder, 14 ounces; essence of lemon, 30 
drops ; mix, and divide into 5 dozen powders. 
(Or 4 to 5 grains of ginger, 28 of bicarbonate j 
of soda, 112 of sugar, and \ drop of essence | 
of lemon, in each powder.) In the other 
powder put 32 grains of tartaric acid ; or 35 
grains if a more decidedly acidulated bever- 
age is required. Or from 30 to 33 grains of 
citric acid. 

903. Spruce Beer Powders. In each 
blue paper put 5 scruples of powdered sugar, 
28 grains of bicarbonate of soda, and 10 grains 
essence of spruce. In each white paper 30 
grains of tartaric acid. 

904. Sherbet. Take 8 ounces carbonate 
of soda, 6 ounces tartaric acid, 2 pounds loaf 
sugar (finely powdered), 3 drachms essence of 
lemon. Let the powders be very dry. Mix 
them intimately, and keep them for use in a 
wide-mouthed bottle, closely corked. Put 2 
good- sized tea spoonfuls into a tumbler ; pour 
in ^ pint of cold water, stir brisklv, and drink 
ofi-. 

905. Raspberry Shrub. 1 quart vine- 
gar, 3 quarts ripe raspberries. After standing 
a day, strain it, adding to each pint a pound 
of sugar, and skim it clear, while boiling about 
half an hour. Put a wine-glass of brandy to 
each pint of the shrub, when cool. Two 
spoonfuls of this, mixed with a tumbler of wa- 
ter, is an excellent drink in warm weather 
and in fevers. 

906. Aerated or Effervescing Lemon- 
ade. This may be made by putting into each 
bottle (soda water bottle) 1 ounce or 1^ 
ounces syrup of lemons, and filling it up with 
simple aerated water from the machine. 
(The syrup is made by dissolving 30 ounces 
lump sugar in 16 ounces of fresh lemon juice, 
by a gentle heat. It may be aromatized by 
adding 30 or 40 drops of essence of lemon to 
the sugar ; or by rubbing part of the sugar 
on the peel of 2 lemons ; or by adding to the 
syrup an ounce of a strong tincture of fresh 
lemon peel, or of the distilled spuit of the 
same.) 

907. Effervescing Lemonade, with- 
out a Machine. Put into each bottle 2 
drachms of sugar, 2 drops of essence of lem- 
on, ^ drachm bicarbonate of potash, and wa- 
ter to fiU the bottle ; then drop in 35 or 40 
grains of citric or tartaric acid in crystals, and 
cork immediately, placing the bottles in a 
cool place, or preferably, in iced water. 

908. Plain Lemonade in Powder. 
(For ten gallons.) ^ pound tartaric acid in j 
powder, 16 pounds sugar in powder, 1^ 
drachms oil of lemons. Rub and mix well. 
1 ounce of this powder makes ^ pint of lem- 
()]iade. 

909. To Make Superior Lemonade. 
Take the rind of 2 lemons, juice of 3 large 
lemons, ^ pound loaf sugar, 1 quart boiling 
water. Rub some of the sugar, in lumps, on 
two of the lemons until they have imbibed all 



the oil from them, and put it with the remain- 
der of the sugar into a jug ; add the lemon 
juice (but no pips), and pour over the whole 
a quart boiling water. When the sugar is 
dissolved, strain the lemonade through a piece 
of muslin, and, when cool, it will be ready 
for use. The lemonade wiU be much im- 
proved by having the white of an egg beaten 
up with it. 

910. To Make Orangeade. Take of 
dilute sulphuric acid, concentrated infusion of 
orange peel, each 12 drachms ; syrup of or- 
ange peel, 5 fluid ounces. This quantity is 
added to 2 imperial gallons of water. A large 
wine-glassful is taken for a draught, mixed 
with more or less water, according to taste. 
This refreshing drink not only assuages the 
thirst, but has, moreover, strong antiseptic 
and anti-diarrhoea properties. 

911. Imitation Lemon Juice. This is 
an excellent substitute for lemon juice, and 
keeps well in a cool place. Dissolve IJ- 
ounces citric acid, 45 grains carbonate of po- 
tassa, and 2^- ounces white sugar in 1 pint cold 
water ; add the yellow peel of a lemon, and, 
in 24 hours, strain through muslin or a hair 
sieve. Instead of the lemon peel, 15 or 16 
drops of oil of lemon may be used to flavor. 

912. Imitation Lemon Juice. Citric 
or tartaric acid, 2^ ounces; gum, | ounce; 
pieces of fresh lemon peel, f ounce; loaf su- 
gar, 2 ounces; boiling water, 1 quart; macer- 
ate with occasional agitation till cold, and 
strain. Excellent. 

913. Imitation Orange Juice. Dis- 
solve 1 ounce citric acid and 1 drachm carbon- 
ate of potassa in 1 quart water, and digest in 
the solution the peel of half an orange until 
sufficiently flavored; then sweeten with 
honey or white sugar. Instead of the orange 
peel, 5 or 6 drops of oil of orange peel, with^ 
fluid ounce tincture of orange peel, may be 
used. 

914. To Keep Lemon Juice. Buy 
lemons when cheap and keep them in a cool 
place two or three days ; roll them to make 
them squeeze easily. Squeeze the juice in a 
bowl, and strain it through muslin which will 
not peiToit a particle of the pulp to pass 
through. Have ready ^ and i ounce phials, 
perfectly dry. Fill them with the juice so 
near the top as only to admit i tea -spoonful 
of sweet oil in each,or a little more if for larger 
bottles. Cork them tight, and put them in a 
cool dark place. "WTien you want the juice, 
open such a sized bottle as you will use in a 
few days. Wind some clean cotton on a 
skewer, and dip it in, to absorb all the oil. 
When the oil is removed the juice will be as 
fine as when first bottled. 

915. Portable Lemonade. Take 1 
pound fijiely-powdered loaf sugar, 1 ounce 
tartaric or citric acid, and 20 drops essence of 
lemon. Mix, and keep very dry. 2 or 3 tea- 
spoonfuls of this stiiTed briskly in a tumbler 
of water will make a very pleasant glass of 
lemonade. If efi"ervescent lemonade be de- 
sired, 1 ounce carbonate of soda must be 
added to the above. 

916. Lemonade Powders. Pound and 
mix together i pound loaf sugar, 1 ounce car- 
bonate of soda, and 3 drops oil of lemon. 
Divide the mixture into 16 portions, wrapped 
in white paper. Then take 1 oimce of tar- 



BREWIXG 



105 



taric acid, and divide into 16 portions., wrap 
ping them in blue paper. Dissolve one of 
each kind in half a tumbler of water, mix the 
two solutions together, and drink while effer- 
vescing. 

917. Lemon Soda Nectar. Juice of 1 
lemon, f tumblerful of water, powdered white 
sugar to taste, i small tea-spoonful of carbon- 
ate of soda. Strain the juice of the lemon, 
and add to it the water, with sufficient white 
sugar to sweeten the whole nicely. "WTien 
well mixed, put in the soda, stir well, and 
drink while in an effervescing state. 

918. Milk Punch. Take 1 table-spoon- 
ful white sugar, 2 table-spooonfuls water, 1 
^\'ine-glass cognac brandy, 2 wine-glass Santa 
Cruz rum, -J- tumblerM shaved ice. Fill with 
milk, shake the ingredients well together, and 
grate a little nutmeg on top. 

919. Brandy Punch. Take 1 table- 
spoonful raspberry syrup, 2 table-spoonfuls 
white sugar, 1 wine-glass water, 1^ wine-glass 
brandy, i small sized lemon, 2 slices of orange, 
1 piece of pineapple. Fill the tumbler with 
shaved ice, shake well, and dress the top with 
berries in season ; sip through a straw. 

920. Whiskey Punch. Take 1 wine- 
glass whiskey (Irish or Scotch), 2 wine-glasses 
boiling water, sugar to taste. Dissolve the 
sugar well with 1 wine-glass of the water, 
then pour in the whiskey, and add the bal- 
ance of the water, sweeten to taste, and put 
in a small piece of lemon rind, or a thin slice 
of lemon. 

921. Claret Punch. Take li table- 
spoonfuls of sugar, 1 slice of lemon, 2 or 3 
slices of orange. Fill the tumbler with 
shaved ice, and then pour in the claret, shake 
well, and ornament with benies in season. 
Place a straw in the glass. 

922. Sherry Cobbler. Take 2 wine- 
glasses of sherry, 1 table-spoonful of sugar, 2 
or 3 slices of orange. Fill a tumbler with 
shaved ice, shake well, and ornament vrith 
berries in season. 

923. Egg Nogg. Take 1 table -spoonful 
of fine sugar, dissolved with 1 table-spoonful 
cold water; 1 (t^^^, 1 wine-glass Cognac brandy, 
5 wme-glass Santa Cruz rum, -J- tumblerful of 
milk. Fill the tumbler i full with shaved ice, 
shake the ingredients until they are thorough- 
ly mixed together, and grate a little nutmeg 
on top. 

924. Bottle Cocktail. To make a 
dilicious bottle of brandy cocktail, use the 
following ingredients : 5- brandy, i water, 1 
pony-glass of Bogart's bitters, 1 wine-glass 
of gum syrup, h pony-glass of Curagoa. 
Whiskey and gin cocktails, in bottles, may be 
made by using the above receipt, and substi- 
tuting those liquors instead of brandy. 

925. Brandy Smash, stable-spoonful 
of white sugar, 1 table-spoonful water, 1 
wine-glass of"" brandy. Fill f full of shaved 
ice, use two sprigs of mint, the same as in the 
receipt for mint julep. Lay two small pieces 
of orange on top, and ornament with berries 
in season. 

92G. Santa Cruz Sour. 1 table-spoon- 
ful fine sugar, 1 wine-glass Santa Cruz rum, 
juice of 5 a lemon. Put the ingi-edients in 
a small tumbler f full of shaved ice, stir, and 
strain into a claret glass, and dress with thin 
slices of lime or lemon, and fruit in season. 



927. Mulled Wine with Eggs. 1 
(|uart of wine, 1 pint of water, 1 table-spoon- 
ful of allspice, and nutmeg to taste ; boil 
them together a few minutes ; beat up 6 eggs 
with sugar to your taste ; pour the boiling 
wine on the eggs, stirring it all the time. Be 
careful not to pom* the eggs into the wine, or 
they will curdle. 

928. Regent Punch. 14 each lemons 
and oranges, the rinds only, 18|- drachms 
ground cinnamon, f drachm ground cloves, 
2 drachms ground vanilla. Cut, macerate for 
24 hours with 2 gallons pure Cognac, and 2 
gallons pure Jamaica rum. Strain, press, and 
add 12 pounds of sugar, boiled with 6 gal- 
lons water; skim, and add to the syrup 2 
ounces green tea ; let it cool, and add the 
juice of 60 lemons and 14 oranges. Filter 
through Canton flannel. 

929. Bottle Wax. Shellac, 2 pounds; 
resin, 4 pounds ; Tenice turpentine, 1^ pounds; 
red lead, 14- pounds. Fuse the shellac and 
resin cautiously in a bright copper pan, over 
a clear charcoal fire. When melted add the 
tm-pentine, and lastly, mix in the red lead. 
Pour into moulds, or form sticks of the de- 
sired size on a warm marble plate. The gloss 
may be produced by polishing the sticks with 
a rag until they are cold. 

930. Corking. Little can be said with 
regard to the 
corkingofbot- 
tles, beyond 
stating the 
fact that com- 
mon, cheap 
corks, are al- 
ways dear; 
the best corks 

p. ^ are soft, vel- 

^* * vety, and free 

from large pores; if squeezed they become 
more elastic and fit more closely. If good 
corks are used, ot" sufficiently large size to 
be extracted without the corkscrew, they 
may be employed many times in succession, 
especially if they are soaked in boiling water, 
which restores them to their original shape, 
and renews their elasticity. The most common 
mode of fastening down corks is with the 
gingerbeer knot, which 
is thus made. First the 
loop is formed as in Fig. 
1, then that part of the 
string which passes 
across the loop is j)laced 
Fiff- ^- on the top of the cork, 

and the loop itself passed down around the 
neck of the bottle, and by pulliu^^ the ends of 
the cord is made tight beneath "the rim; th© 



Ji^l^rS 



Fig. 3. 

ends of the string are finally brought up, and 
tied either in a double knot or in a bow on the 
top of the cork. "When ginger-beer is made at 
home it will be found most advantageous to 
use the best corks, and to tie them down with 
a bow, when both corks and strings may be 
made use of repeatedly. For effervescent 






106 



BBE WINa. 



wines, such, as cliampagiie, gooseberry, &c., 
vehich require to be kept a longer time, and 





Fig. 4 

are more valuable, a securer knot is desirable, 
wMcb may be made thus : A loop, as in Fig. 
2, is first formed, and the lower end is then 
turned upwards and 
carried behind the loop 
as shown in Fig. 3 ; it 
is then pulled through 
the loop as in Fig. 4, 
and in this state is put 
over the neck of the 
bottle; the part a being 
on one side, and the 
two parts of the loop 
on the other ; on pull- 
ing the two ends the 
whole becomes tight 
_. round the neck, and 

■^*^' ^' the ends, which should 

be quite opposite, are to be brought up over 
the cork, twice twisted, as in Fig. 5, and then 
tied in a single knot. 

931. Distillation of "Whiskey and 
New England Rum. The process of dis- 
tillation commences with the fermentation of 
grain or molasses by the presence of yeast, 
and this is called mashing, or preparing the 
mash. Strictly speaking, indeed, the spirits 
are not produced by distillation : that is done 
by the previous step of fermentation, and dis- 
tillation merely separates the spirits from the 
mixture in which they already exist. The 
object of fermentation is to convert the starchy 
principle of the grain into sugar, or to sac- 
charify it. Afterbeing agitated for 2 or 3 hours, 
the saccharine iniudon, called wort, is drawn 
off from the grains and cooled. To this wort 
is now added a certain quantity of yeast or 
leaven, which induces the vinous fermentation, 
and resolves the saccharine matter into alco- 
hol and carbonic acid, accompanied by a rise 
of temperature. The alcoholic mixture which 
results is called the wash, and is now ready for 
distillation. 

932. How to Prepare Yeast for Rye 
Whiskey or New England Rum. To 
prepare yeast for 80 gallons mash, take 2 
pounds of wheat meal and dilute it with suffi- 
cient warm water to make a thin paste. Then 
boil 2 ounces of hops in a quart of water, and 
when cold take out the hops and throw them 
away. Then dilute 1 quart of malt in a quart 
of water. Mix, cold, the hop water, paste 
and malt well together, and add half a pound 
of leaven. Cover the jar containing the mix- 
ture with a piece of cloth, and keep it 3 or 4 
hours in some warm place until it rises. The 
fermentation will be perfect after the whole 
has arisen and then sunk down. Then add 2 
gallons of the mash, stir the whole, mix it 
with 80 gallons of the mash, and begin the 
fermentation. This receipt is the very best 
for rye whiskey. 

933. To Prepare Yeast for New Eng- 
land Rum. To 80 gallons mash, add 1 gal- 



lon brewers' yeast and | pound carbonate of 
ammonia dissolved in a pint of water. Stir 
well, and begin the fermentation. Grood for 
ITew England rum. 

934. To Prepare Yeast for Rye 
"Whiskey. To 80 gallons of mash, add 1 
gallon yeast, 5 quarts of malt, and 1 pound 
of molasses. Dilute the malt with 2 quarts of 
water, and add the molasses. Keep the whole 
in a warm place until it rises, as described in 
ISTo. 931. Add the yeast to the mash and stir; 
afterwards add the molasses and malt and stir 
again. Then begin the fermentation. Good 
for rye whiskey. 

935. How to Prepare Mash for New 
England Rum. For a still by steam or fire. 
To prepare 80 gallons mash, reduce the mo- 
lasses 18 degrees by the saccharometer, add 
yeast jSTo. 932, and stir well. Let it fer- 
ment at a temperature of 75° Fahrenheit, un- 
til the mash is reduced to 0. But as it is very 
difficult to get such a reduction, the operator 
may begin to distill when the mash marks 2 
or 3 degrees by the saccharometer. Charge 
three-fourths of the still, and begin distilling, 

936. How to Prepare Mash for Rye 
"Whiskey. For a still by steam or fire. To 
prepare 80 gallons mash, grind the rye into 
coarse powder, then charge the fennenting 
tubs in the proportion of 110 pounds of rye to 
80 gallons of water, and mix yeast JSTo. 931 
or 933. Let it ferment at a temperature of 
75° or 80° Fahr., until the feimentation is 
completed. The fermentation will be perfect 
after the mash rises and sinks. "When this is 
done, charge thi-ee-fourths of the still and be- 
gin distilling. In preparing the mash, the op- 
erator may use all rye, as directed above — this 
makes the best quality of whiskey — or use 
three-fifths rye and two-fifths com, or three- 
fifths corn and two-fifths rye. 

937. Distillation with or without a 
Heater. Distillers usually employ a heater 
to hasten the process of distillation. TThen 
the heater is employed, the mash passes from 
the fermenting tubs into the heater. During 
the time occupied in distilling over the charge 
of the still, it is necessary to keep a heat of 
125 degrees in the heater. The mash passes 
directly from the heater into the still by 
means of a pipe or gutter, according to the 
general arrangement of the apx)aratus. Distill 
until the spirit which runs from the worm 
marks 10 degrees below proof. This first run 
is called high wine. Then remove the receiv- 
er that contains the high wine, and substitute 
another. Continue to distill until the low 
wine ceases to blaze when it is thrown in the 
fire. "Whenever this occurs, stop the opera- 
tion, and keep the low wine for the next dis- 
tillation. Then clean the still and charge it 
with fresh mash. When the ope:"ator does 
not employ the heater, the mash passes from 
the fermenting tubs immediately into the still. 
No unifonn disposition is necessary for the 
fermenting tubs or heater ; all depends upon 
the general arrangement of the apparatus. 
The distiller need not be infoi*med that the 
apparatus must be arranged so as to save la- 
bor. If the mash tubs are above the stiU, 
connect them by a gutter or pipe ; if on a lev- 
el with the still, emplov a hand pump. 

938. How to Pack a Rectifying Tub. 
To rectify from 10 below proof to 50 above 



PERFUMER Y. 



107 



proof. 30 bushels of maple charcoal are re- 
quired ft)r a tub seven feet high and four feet 
iu diameter; a tub of this size will give a 
clear bed of .14 inches. At two inches from 
the bottom of the tub place a false bottom 
perforated with g-inch holes, and cover this 
bottom with sailcloth or blanket. Then pack 
in the charcoal regularly and very tightly 
with a wooden pestle. Great attenticm should 
be given to this part of the operation, in or- 
der to prevent the occurrence of holes or 
crevices in the charcoal during the process of 
filtration. Pack the sides of the tub thor- 
oughly. Cover the charcoal with sailcloth, 
place laths gver the cloth, and use heavy 
stones to keep the charcoal down. 



Perfamery. The receipts in this 
department embrace a great variety of 
odorous essences, extracts, tinctm-es, oils, po- 
mades, cosmetics, dentifrices, and other articles 
of the toilet, and are all iderived from the 
latest and best authorities. 

940. How to Prepare Essences and 
Perfumed Spirits. The scented spirits of 
the perfumer are merely alcoholic solutions of 
the aromatic and odorous principles of the 
substances they represent, obtained in one or 
other of the following ways: — By simply add- 
ing essential oil or other odoriferous matter to 
the spirit, and agitating them together until so- 
lution is complete. Occasionally the resulting 
alcoholic solution is distilled. By macerating 
or digesting the ingredients (previously bruised 
or pulverized) in the spirit, with frequent agi- 
tation, for a few days, when the resulting 
tincture is either decanted and filtered (if ne- 
cessary), or the whole is thrown into a still, 
and submitted to distillation by a gentle heat. 
In the former case, the spirit retained in the 
pores of the solid ingredients, and which, con- 
sequently, cannot be drawn ofi", is obtained by 
powerful pressure. {See Nos. 39 and 40.) 
By digesting the spirit, with frequent agita- 
tion on highly scented pomade or oil, in a 
close vessel, at a gentle heat for some hours, 
and the next day decanting the perfumed 
spirit. {See No. 40.) Distillation is only ap- 
plicable to substances of which the fragrant 
principles are volatile, and readily pass over 
with the spirit during the process. Thus, 
flowers, flowering tops, herbs, seeds, &c., may, 
in general, be so treated ; but not musk, am- 
bergris, vanilla, and a few other substances, 
of which the odor is of a more fixed nature. 
{See No. 13.) In proceeding by distillation, 
one of the first points to be attended to is, to 
see that the still, condensing- worm, or refri- 
gerator, and the receiver, be perfectly clean 
and sweet, and absolutely free from the odor 
of any previous distillation. The lute em- 
ployed to secure the still-head or capital to 
the still must also be of a simple character, 
incapable of conveying any taint to the hot 
vapor that comes in contact with it. (Linseed- 
meal or equal weights of linseed-meal and 
whiting, made into a stiff paste or dough with 
water, is a good lute for the purpose. Sweet 
almond -cake meal is still better.) The most 
convenient and manageable source of heat is 
high-pressure steam supplied from an adjacent 
boiler, the body of the still being enclosed in 



a steam-jacket for the purpose. A water- bath, 
the boiling-point of which should be raised 
by the addition of about J its weight of com- 
mon salt, comes next in point of convenience 
and effect. When the still is exposed to the 
heat of a naked fire, or that of dry flues, a 
little water must be put into it along with the 
spirit and other ingredients, to prevent empy- 
reuma ; and the greatest care must be taken 
to stop the process, and to remove the re- 
ceiver, as soon as the proper quantity of dis- 
tillate is obtained. If this be neglected, the 
odor of the whole may be vitiated. Moder- 
ately rapid distillation is favorable to the 
odor of the product, as is also the elevation 
of the boiling-point in the liquid operated on. 
Spirit distilled from aromatics decreases in 
odor with the boiHng-point of the ingredientsr 
in the still. To raise the latter, the addition 
of 1 to li pounds of common salt per gallon 
is often advantageously made. {See Nos. 
5, 6 and 7.) By one or other of the above 
methods, or a combination of them, are, in 
general, prepared all the ''eaux," "esprits," 
and "extraits," of the perfumers. As a rule, 
extraits and essences are preferred to eaux 
and esprits as the basis of good perfumery, 
when the color is not objectionable. What- 
ever process is adopted, the utmost care must 
be taken in the selection of the spirit used. 
Only spirit that is absolutely pure, flavorless, 
and scentless, must be employed, if we desire 
the product to be of fine quality. Malt-spirit 
or corn-spirit contaminated, even in the very 
slightest degree, with fusel-oil or corn-oil, or a 
whiskey-odor, is utterly unfit for the purpose. 
So also the refined methylated spirit now so 
commonly and fraudulently sold as spirit of 
wine. The extreme purity of the spirit em- 
ployed by the French manufacturingperfumers 
— it being actually spirit of wine, and not 
merely so in name — is one of the reasons why 
their odoriferous spirits are so much superior 
to those of the American houses. Great care 
must also be taken in the selection of the es- 
sential oils intended to be employed in making 
perfumed spirits. These should be pure or 
genuine, and should be pale and recent, or of 
the last season's distillation. If they be old, 
or have been much exposed to the air, they 
will contain more or less resin, and their alco- 
holic solution will be defective in fragrance, 
and be liable to permanently stain delicate 
articles of clothing to which it may be ap- 
plied. The strength of the spirit used for 
concentrated essences, as a rule, should not 
be less than 90 per cent., or of the specific 
gravity .8332. A few require a spirit of even 
greater strength than this. The first quality 
of extraits, particularly those prepared from 
pomades and oils, and many of the eaux and 
esprits, also require 90 per cent, spirit. The 
strength of the spnit for the others, and for 
second qualities (commonly sold as the best 
in the stores), must be fully 75 per cent., or of 
the specific gravity .8765 ; that of the third 
quality fully 70 per cent., or specific gravity 
.8892; and that of the fourth quality fully 
proof, or specific gravity .920. The last is 
the lowest quality, and the weakest of any 
kind made by respectable perfumers ; but the 
double distilled lavender-water, eau de Co- 
logne, and other scents, vended in little showy 
bottles, by the draggists, and in fancy-stores, 



108 



PEBFUMEBY. 



are commonly even much weaker than this, 
being often under proof, {See No.l^'^b.) The 
capacity of spirit, at this strength, of dissolv- 
ing essential oil and other odorous matter is, 
however, very little. The solvent power of 
spirit decreases with its strength, but much 
more rapidly. {Cooley.) 

941. Essences. The term essence is 
generally very loosely applied to a prepara- 
tion of almost any kind, that is supposed to 
contain in a high degree the essential or dis- 
tinctive principle or quality of some substance. 
Thus, the essential or volatile oils obtained 
fi-om vegetable substances by distillation; 
concentrated infusions, decoctions, aqueous 
solutions, and tinctures, are all often errone- 
ously termed essences. 

In perfumery the word ''essence" is ap- 
plied only to a solution of an essential oil in 
deodorized alcohol, in the proportion, usually, 
of 2 drachms to 2 ounces of the essential oil 
to 1 quart of rectified spirits. Sometimes an 
essence, using the term in its coiTect sense, is 
distilled, with the addition of a little water ; 
it is then called distiUed aromatic spirits. 

942. Essences of Flowers. The es- 
sences of those flowers which are not separate- 
ly given in this work, may be made by one or 
other of the following general formulte. Take 
of essential oil (of the respective flowers), 1 
ounce avoirdupois, and rectified spirit 90 per 
cent. 1 pint (Imperial); dissolve as directed 
for "Essence of Almonds." Or, take of the 
(respective) flowers, 3 to 5 pounds; proof 
spirit, 2 gallons ; digest for a few days, and 
then draw over, by distillation, 1 gallon of 
essence. For those flowers that are not 
strongly fragrant, the product may be distilled 
a second and a third time, or even oftener, 
from fresh flowers, as noticed under "Essence 
of Roses." The products obtained by distilla- 
tion are always colorless ; and hence flowers 
rich in color may, in general, be advantage- 
ously so treated. The flowers should be select- 
ed when in their state of highest fragrance ; 
and should be picked to pieces, or crushed or 
bruised, as their nature may indicate, ^ith 
many, the last is facilitated by the addition of 
some clean sand or common salt. Or, proceed 
in the way described under "Essence of 
Tuberose." This applies to most of those 
flowers that contain little fragrant oil, and of 
which the odor is extremely delicate. A 
small quantity of some other odorous essence 
or volatile oil is commonly added to the 
simple essences of flowers, at will, to enrich 
or modify the fragrance, each manufacturer 
usually pursuing his own taste in the matter. 
In some cases, spirit is impregnated with a 
combination of essential oils and other odorous 
substances, so as to produce, artificially, an 
odor resembling or approaching that of the 
particular flowers after which the products are 
named ; although there may be none of the 
respective flowers employed in their prepara- 
tion. This is particularly the case with flowers 
of Avhich the odorous piinciple is difficult or 
troublesome to extract, or which possess very 
little of it. So also of the essences of many 
flowers having strange or attractive names, 
and no true fragrance. Hence arises the al- 
most endless variety of fragrant essences, 
esprits, and similar preparations, vended by 
the perfumers of the present day, numbers of 



which are mere artificial combinations of 
other perfumes. ( Cooleij. ) 

943. Essence of Almonds; Essence 
of Bitter Almonds ; Essence of Peach- 
kernels; Almond Flavor. Take of essen- 
tial oil of almonds, 1 fluid ounce ; and recti- 
fied spirit (90 per cent.), 19 fluid ounces; 
mix, and agitate or shake them together imtil 
united, 

944. Essence of Roses. Take of pure 
otto of roses IJ drachms (Troy) ; and alcohol 
(96 per cent.) 1 pint (Imperial) ; mix, place 
the bottle in a vessel of warm water until its 
contents acquire the temperature of about 85° 
Fahr., then cork it close, and agiiate it smart- 
ly until the whole is quite cold. Yery fine. 

945. Extra Essence of Roses. Take 
of petals of roses (fresh) 3 pounds avoirdu- 
pois; and rectified spirit (90 per cent.) 5 
Imperial quarts ; digest the petals (picked 
to pieces) in the sphit for 24 hom's, then distill 
to dryness by the heat of a water-bath. Di- 
gest the distillate (product of distillation) on 
a fresh quantity of rose-petals, and re-distill, 
as before; and repeat the whole process of 
maceration and distillation a third, fourth, 
fifth, and sixth time, or oftener, the last time 
observing to conduct the distillation rapidly, 
and to draw over only 1 gallon, which is the 
essence. DeKcately and delightfully fragrant. 
It improves by age. The product of each of 
the above receipts is very superior ; but that 
of the last has a peculiar delicacy of flavor, 
which distinguishes it from those prepared 
from the otto. Some makers add to each 
pint of the former 20 or 30 drops each oil of 
bergamot and neroli, and 15 or 20 drops 
essence of musk ; but the product of the last 
formula is scarcely improved by any addition, 
unless it be a very little neroli or essence 
d'ambrette, or both, as the case may indicate. 
The best rose leaves to use are those of the 
rosa centifolia (cabbage-rose, damask-rose), or 
rosa sempervirens (musk-rose), or mixtures of 
them, 

946. Essence of Rondeletia ; Extrait 
de Rondeletia. Yarious formulse are cur- 
rent for this exquisite perfume, of which 
scarcely any produce an article approaching 
in excellence the proprietary one. The fol- 
lowing is an exception : Take of oil of laven- 
der (Mitcham), f ounce avoirdupois; oil of 
cloves (finest), 5 drachms avoirdupois : oil of 
bergamot, 4 drachms ; i drachm each of the 
finest essence of ambergris and musk ; recti- 
fied spirit (strongest), f Imperial pint; 
agitate them together until completely united. 
Some persons add ^ drachm of neroli, or of 
oil of verbena (Indian lemon-grass), with or 
without 10 or 12 drops of otto of roses. Yery 
fine. 

947. Curious Essence. Take of otto 
of roses 2 drachms; oil of rose-geranium, 1 
drachm; essence of musk, 3 Imperial fluid 
drachms ; essence of ambergris, 1 Imperial 
fluid drachm ; rectified spirit (warm), 1 pint ; 
mix, closely cork the bottle, and agitate fre- 
quently until cold. A powerful, dm-able, and 
very agreeable perfume, 

948. Essence de Frangipane; Ex- 
trait de Frangipane; Frangipanni. 
Take of neroli, 2 Imperial fluid drachms; 
essence royale, 3 fluid drachms ; civet (pow- 
dered), 10 grains avoh'dupois ; oil of lavender, 



PERFUMER Y. 



109 



oil of cloves, oil of rhodium, of each, 5 or 6 
drops; rectified spirit, 85 to 4 5 fluid ounces ; 
digest a week, and then decant the clear por- 
tion. Powerful, durable, and pleasant. 

949. Essence of Violets ; Essence of 
Orris ; Factitious. Take of Florentine or- 
ris-root (coarsely powdered), I5 pounds avoir- 
dupois; rectifi.ed spirit, 1 Imperial quart; 
proceed \>j percolation or the method of dis- 
placement, so as to obtain 1 quart of essence ; 
or by digestion for two weeks, followed by 
powerful pressure in a tinctare-press. The 
former is the best and most economical 
method. This forms the best essence of vio- 
lets of the wholesale druggists. It may be, 
but is rarely, distilled. (*S'ee Xo. 954.) 

950. Essence of Cologne; Cologne- 
Essence ; Concentrated Eau de Cologne. 
This is prepared from the same odorous in- 
gredients as " Eau de Cologne," but taking 7 
or 8 times the quantity, and using alcohol or 
the strongest rectified spirit, without which a 
permanent solution of the whole of them can- 
not be formed. Used as a condensed and 
convenient substitute for ordinary "Eau de 
Cologne " by travelers, being less bulky. It 
is also kept in stock by druggists and per- 
fumers, to enable them to prepare that article 
extemporaneously, by simply diluting it with 
8 times its bulk of spirit of the appropriate 
strength. 

951. Essence of Orange ; Essence of 
Orange-peel. Oil of orange-peel is popular- 
ly so called. The alcoholic essence is made 
from this oil like essence of almonds. {See 
Xo. 943.) 

952. Essence of Pimento; Essence 
of Allspice. Prepared fi.*om oil of pimento, 
as essence of almonds. Sometimes used in 
compound perfumes and cosmetics, and for 
toothache ; but chiefly as a flavoring essence. 

953. Essence of Pineapple. From 
pineapple oil (butyric ether), as the last. 
Sometimes taken on sugar, by smokers ; but 
chiefly used by confectioners, liqueur manu- 
facturers, &c. {See Xo. 1060.) 

954. Essence of Tuberose. The 
flowers are placed in alternate layers with 
sheep's or cotton wool impregnated with the 
purest oil of ben or of olives, in an earthen ves- 
sel, closely covered, and kept for 12 hours in a 
water bath ; the flowers are then removed 
and fresh ones substituted, and this is re- 
peated untn the oil is sufficiently scented. 
The wool or cotton is then mixed with the 
purest spirit of wine, and distilled in a water 
bath ; or, it is first digested in a well closed 
vessel for several days in a warm situation, 
with frequent agitation. A similar plan is 
followed for the preparation of the essences of 
jasmine, violets, <tc. {See Xo. 1349.) 

955. Essence of Lemons. From oil 
of lemon, as essence of almonds. {See Xo. 
943.) For this purpose the oil should have 
been recently expressed, aud preserved from 
the air. A dash of essence of musk improves 
it as a perfume, but not as a flavoring essence. 
Oil of lemon is popularly called essence of 
lemons. 

956. Concentrated Essence of Musk. 
Take of grain-musk (Tonquin or Chinese), 1 
ounce avou-dupois ; boiling distilled water, 
2 Imperial pint; digest them together in a 
close vessel, with frequent agitation, untU 



quite cold, then, add 3i pints rectified spirit 
(95 per cent.), i fluid oimce liquor of am- 
monia (.880-.885 specific gravity), and, havina 
closely corked or stopped the vessel and 
securely tied it over with bladder, digest th« 
whole for 1 or 2 months, with frequent agita- 
tion, in a room exposed to the sun, in sum- 
mer, or in an equally warm situation in win- 
ter. Lastly, after repose, decant the clear 
portion, and, if necessary, filter it. A littla 
essence of ambergris is commonly added to 
the filtrate, or, when this is not done, 1 to 9 
drachms of ambergris are put into the vessel 
before closing it, and after adding the spirit. 
Yery fine. The residuum is treated with 
fresh spuit for an inferior quality. 

957. Fine Essence of Musk. Take i 
ounce finest grain-musk, civet and ambergris 
each 1 drachm, strongest essence d'ambrette, 
5 pint. Instead of the ambergiis, 1 to I2 
fluid ounces of essence of ambergris may be 
added after decantation. The quantity of 
civet ordered should on no account be ex- 
ceeded. This produces the finest quality of 
the Paris houses. 

958. Common Essence of Musk. 
Take f ounce (avoidupois) grain-musk, 1 
quart (Imperial) rectified spirit (95 per cent.), 
and 2 fluid ounces finest essence of ambergiis ; 
digest, &e., as before. Excellent ; but greatly 
inferior to the others. Essence of musk is an 
agreeable and powerful perfume, and is great- 
ly esteemed in the fashionable world. Its 
odor is so durable that articles scented with 
it will retain the fragrance for years. The 
product of each of the above is of very fine 
quality ; but that of ISTo. 957 is the very 
finest that is made, and such as is seldom 
sold, except by the high-class perfumers, who 
obtain for it a very high price. It is power- 
fully and deliciously fragrant. 

959. Best Way to Prepare the Es- 
sence of Musk and Ambergris. The 
best vessel for preparing essence of musk, as 
well as of ambergris, is a strong tin-bottle 
with a nicely rounded mouth and neck. 
Great care should be taken to cork it perfect- 
ly close, and, after this is done, to tie it over 
securely with wet bladder. The bottle should 
not be set in the full sunshine, but only in a 
position warmed by it ; and in no case should 
the digestion be of shorter duration than three 
or four weeks, as otherwise much fragrant 
matter will escape solution. The addition of 
5 to 1 fluid drachm, per pint, of liquor of am- 
monia, or of liquor of potassa (the first is 
greatly preferable), increases the solvent 
power of the spirit and vastly increases the 
fragrance of the essence. A few grains of 
salt of tartar (carbonate of potash) are some- 
times added with the same intention; but 
this addition is objectionable, as it does not 
efi"ect the object in view, whilst it occasions 
partial decomposition of the mixture. To 
facilitate the action of the menstruum, and to 
make the most of the ingredients, it is best to 
rub down the musk, &e., with a little pow- 
dered glass, sand, or lump sugar, as noticed 
under ''Essence of Ambergris." Filtration 
and exposure to the air should, if possible, be 
avoided. 

960. Essence Royale. Take of am- 
bergris, 40 grains avoirdupois ; gi-ain-musk 
(pm-e), 20 grains ; civet and carbonate of 



110 



PERFUMER Y. 



potassa, of each 10 grains ; oil of cirmanion, 6 
drops ; oil of rhodium and otto of roses, of 
each 4 drops; rectified spirit, 4 Imperial 
fluid ounces ; digest, with agitation, for 10 or 
12 days, or longer. Yery fragrant. The 
above is a celebrated receipt, but we think it 
would be improved by substituting 12 drops 
liquor of ammonia for the carbonate of po- 
tassa. {See last receipt.) 

961. Essence of Neroli; Essence of 
Orange Blossoms ; or Essence de Elenrs 
d'Oranges. Dissolve h ounce avoirdupois 
pure neroli in rectified spirit, 1 Imperial pint. 
An ounce of e?:*sencc of jasmine, jonquille, or 
violets, is often added. A delicate and deli- 
cious perfume. 

962. Essence of Storax (or Styrax) ; 
Extract of Storax. Take 1 ounce avoirdu- 
pois finest genuine liquid storax and ^ Impe- 
rial pint rectified spirit ; digest, with agitation, 
for a week, and then decant the clear portion. 

963. Essence of Ambergris ; or Con- 
centrated Tincture of Ambergris. Take 
10 drachms avoirdupois 95 per cent, amber- 
gris and 1 Imperialpintrectified spirit, putthem 
into a strong bottle or tin can, secure the mouth 
perfectly and very firmly, and keep the vessel 
in a room exposed to the heat of the sun, or 
equally warm, for a month or two, observing 
to briskly agitate it daily dming the whole 
time. Lastly, after repose, decant the clear 
portion, and, if necessary, filter it rapidly 
through soft blotting paper, Yery fine. It 
forms the strongest and finest simple essence of 
ambergris of the Paris houses. {See No. 959.) 
The common practice in making the essence 
is to cut the ambergris up small before digest- 
ing it ; but a much better plan is to rub down 
the ambergris with a sufficient quantity of 
powdered glass, clean silicious sand, or dry 
lump-sugar, observing afterwards to rinse the 
mortar out well two or three times, with por- 
tions of the spirit, so that nothing may be 
lost, A second quality may be made by em- 
ploying half the quantity of ambergris to 
the same amount of spirit. 

964. Essence of Ambergris. Amber- 
gris 10 drachms avoirdupois; grain musk (Ton- 
quin or Chinese pure), 3 drachms ; rectified 
spirit, 1 quart. Proceed as in the last receipt. 
The products of the above two receipts form 
a delightful perfume highly esteemed in the 
fashionable world. A very small quantity of 
any one of them added to eau de Cologne, 
lavender-water, tooth-powder, hair-powder, 
pomades, wash-balls, ^c, communicates a 
delicious fragrance. A few drops added to 
sweet-scented spirits, liqueurs, wines, &Q.., 
improve their flavor and aroma. 1 or l4 fluid 
drachms added to a hogshead of claret, imparts 
a flavor and bouquet to the wine which is re- 
garded by man}' as delicious. 

965. Fiae Essence of Vardlla, Take 
5 pound avoirdupois finest vaniUa, and recti- 
fied spirit, 1 Imperial quart; proceed as for 
essence of musk. {See Xo. 959.) Lastly, 
press and decant or filter. Yery superior. It 
forms the best quality vended by the whole- 
sale druggists, and is sold at exorbitant prices. 
This, as well as the preceding, is chiefly used 
for flavoring, and as an ingredient in com- 
pound perfumes and cosmetics. Essence of 
vaniUa is a favorite and useful addition to 
tooth-cosmetics, pomades, &c. In preparing 



it, the vaniQa, <fec., shouia be cut small with 
a sharp knife ; or what is better, rubbed down 
with a little powdered glass, sand, or lump- 
sugar. 

966. Essence of Patchouli ; Essence 
de Patchoulie; or Essence de Poucha- 
pat. Take 3 pounds avoirdupois Indian patch- 
ouli (leaves or foliaceous tops), and rectified 
spirit 9 Imperial pints ; digest for a week ia 
a close vessel, add \ ounce oil of lavender 
(Mitcham) and promote solution by agitation. 
]^ext throw the whole into a still, and further 
add 1 gaUon water and 2 or 3 pounds com- 
m on salt. Agitate the whole briskly together, 
lute on the stiU-head, and distill over (rapidly) 
1 gallon. To the distillate add k fluid ounce 
finest essence of musk; and after 10 days' 
repose, bottle it. A very fashionable perfume, 
particularly for personal use. 

967. Common Essence of Patchouli. 
1|- ounces otto of patchouli, J ounce otto of 
rose, and 1 gallon rectified spirit. 

968. Essence d'Ambrette ; or Essence 
of Musk-seed. Take 1|- pounds avoirdupois 
finest musk-seed ; grind it in a clean pepper- 
mill, and digest it for 3 or 4 weeks in 3 pints 
Imperial rectified spirit; the vessel being 
closely stopped or corked, and kept in a warm 
room all the time. Lastly decant, press and 
filter. 

969. Essence of Bergamot. The pop- 
ular name of oil of bergamot. A spirituousr 
essence may be made in a similar way to that 
of almonds. {See No. 943.) 

970. Essence of Cassia. From oil of 
cassia, as essence of almonds. {See No. 943.) 
Uses, &Q,., the same. 

971. Essence of Cinnamon. From 
oil of cinnamon, as essence of almonds. 
{See No. 943. ) Essence of cassia is commonly 
and fraudulently sold for it. 

972. Essence of Civet. Take 1 ounce 
(avoirdupois) civet cut very small, and 1 pint 
(Imperial) rectified spirit; proceed as for 
essence of ambergris or musk. Its odor is 
only agreeable when faint and combined with 
that of other substances, which it sustains 
and increases. It is hence seldom or never 
used alone. 

973. Essence of Lavender. Take 1 
ounce avoirdupois oO. of lavender (Mitcham) 
and i Imperial pint strongest rectified spirit ; 
mix with agitation; a few drops of the es- 
sences of musk and ambergiis being added at 
will. Yery fine. 

974. To Extract the Essence from 
any Flower. Take any flowers you choose ; 
place a layer in a clean earthen pot, and' over 
them a layer of fine salt. Eepeat the process 
until the pot is filled, cover closely, and place 
in the cellar. Forty days afterwards, strain 
the essence from the whole through a crape 
by pressure. Put the essence thus expressed 
in a clear bottle, and expose for six weeks in 
the rays of the sun and evening dew to purify. 
One drop of this essence will communicate its 
odor to a pint of water. 

975. To Make Attar, or Otto of 
Roses. Gather the flowers of the hundred- 
leaved rose (rosa centifolia), put them in a 
large jar or cask, with just sufficient water to 
cover them, then put the vessel to stand in 
the sun, and in about a week afterwards the 
attar — a butyraceous oil — wiU form a scum on 



coLoay E WA te r 



111 



the surface, which should be removed by the 
aid of a piece of cotton. 



/^^ologne Water and Per- 
V-y famed Spirits. lu preparing 

eau de Cologne, it is essential that the spirit be ot 
the purest description, both tasteless and scent- 
less, and that the oils be not only genuine, but 
recently distilled; as old oils, especially if they 
have been exposed to the air,' are less odorous, 
and contain a considerable quantity of resin 
and camphor, which would prove iujurious. 
French spirit of 90 per cent, should be used 
in the manufacture of eau de Cologne, and 
when a weaker spirit is employed, the essen- 
tial oils must be dissolved in a'^small quantity 
of 90 or 95 per cent, spirit. Should the mix- 
ture afterwards prove turbid, filter it through 
paper with a little carbonate of magnesia. 
{See Nos. 1080 and 1081.) To produce an 
article of the finest quality, distillation should 
be had recourse to ; but a very excellent eau 
de Cologne may be produced by simj)le solu- 
tion or maceration of the ingredients in the 
spirit, provided all the essences be new, pale- 
colored, and pure. 

The mass of the eau de Cologne prepared m 
America, some* of which possesses the most 
delicate fragrance, and is nearly equal to the 
be«t imported, is made without distillation. 

977. Piesse's Best duality Eau de 
Cologne. Mix with agitation 3 ounces attar 
of neroli petale ; 1 ounce attar of neroli bi- 
garade ; 2 ounces attar of rosemary ; 5 ounces 
attar of orange zest ;. 5 ounces attar of citron 
zest; and 2 ounces attar of bergamot, witb 
6 gallons 95 per cent, grape spirit. Let it 
stand perfectly quiet for a few days. Although 
very fine eau de Cologne is often made by 
merely mixing the ingredients, it is better 
first to mix all the citrine attars with spirit, 
then distill the mixture, and afterwards add 
the rosemary and nerolies. This method is 
adopted by the most popular house in Cologne. 

978. iJau de Cologne. To 3 pints alco- 
hol of 95° add 12^ drachms oil of lemon, IJ 
drachms oil of orange, 2^ drachms oil of 
cedrat, I4 drachms oil of vervain, 2 2 drachms 
oil of bergamot, 2| drachms oil of mint, 5 
drachms oil of lavender, I4 drachms oil of 
white thyme, 2 di'achms oil of Portugal, I4 
drachms oil of rosemary, 8 ounces tincture of 
ambretta, and 1 pound eau de melisse ; {eau 
des Cannes) ; mix well in a bottle, and after 
standing six hours add 21 drachms tincture of 
ambergris; then filter until clear. This is 
greatly improved by distilling. 

979. Eau de Cologne— Extra. — Put 1 
quart 95 per cent, alcohol into a bottle ; add to 
it 9 drachms oil of cedrat, 2 drachms oil of 
thyme, 6 drachms each oil of bergamot and 
oil of lemon, 4 drachms oil of Portugal, 2 
drachms each oil of neroli, oil of vervain and 
oil of rosemary, 2^ drachms oil of mint, 2 
pints eau de mebsse and 24 drops tincture of 
musk ; mix thoroughly, and after standing for 
12 hours, filter till clear. 

980. Durockereau's Cologne "Water. 
To 7 quarts French tasteless alcohol, add 11 
drachms essence of Portugal, 13 drachms es- 
sence of bergamot, 1 ounce essence of lemon, 
10 drachms essence of neroli, 1 ounce essence 



of rosemary, 1 ounce essence of lavender, 14 
drachms rose water, 13 drachms jasmin wa- 
ter, 15 drachms orange-flower water. Mix 
the whole together, let it stand 24 hours, and 
distill over a water-bath. 

981. Gouffe's Eau de Cologne. Take 
^ ounce each essences of lemon, bergamot, 
and citron; 4 ounce essence of rosemary; -J- 
ounce essence of neroli. Infuse for 8 days in 

1 quart 95 per cent, alcohol. Filter, and bottle 
for use. 

982. Farina's Eau de Cologne. Take 
of angelica-root, 10 grains; camphor, 15 
grains ; cassia-lignea, cloves, mace, nutmegs, 
wormwood tops, of each 20 grains ; calamus 
aromaticus, sage, thyme, of each \ drachm 
(Troy); orange flowers, 1 drachm (Troy); la- 
vender flowers, I2 drachms (Troy) ; rose pet- 
als, violets of each, 3 drachms (Troy) ; balm- 
mint and spear-mint of each 1 ounce (Troy) ; 

2 sliced lemons ; 2 sliced oranges, and 5 gallons 
rectified Cologne spirits. Bruise or slice the 
solids, and digest them in the spirit, with, 
frequent agitation, for 2 or 3 days, then distill 
off 3 gallons. To this add, of oil of berga- 
mot, essential oil of jasmin, 1 fluid ounce each; 
oil of balm-mint, oil of cedrat, oil of lavender, 
oil of lemon, 1 fluid drachm each ; pure neroli 
and oil of anthos-seed, of each 20 drops. 
Agitate until solution is complete, and the 
next day, if necessary, filter. This formula, 
many years since, was confidentially given 
by the "celebrated original Jean Maria Farina, 
who lived opposite the Jiilichs Platz, in Co- 
logne, to a professional gentleman, now de- 
ceased, with a solemn assurance that it was 
the one used by the former in his laboratory. 
After keeping the secret some years, this gen- 
tleman disclosed it. It seems unnecessarily 
comphcated. Some of the articles, as the 
herbs wormwood and mint, are either useless 
or better omitted. The version given above 
difi"ers from the original simply in being in- 
tended for only 5 gallons instead of twelve 
times the quantity. Dr. Cooley says he per- 
sonally tried it, and found the quality of the 
product splendid. 

983. Parrish's Best Cologne Water. 
Mix together 2 fluid ounces oil of bergamot, 
2 fluid drachms oil of neroli, -J fluid ounce oil 
of jasmin, 2 fluid drachms oil of garden, 
lavender, 1 minim oil of cinnamon, 3 fluid 
ounces benzoated tincture, 5 fluid ounce oil 
of musk, 1 gallon deodorized alcohol, and 2 
pints rose-water. The mixture should stand 
a hmg time before filtering for use. 

984. Parrish's Common Cologne "Wa- 
ter. A much cheaper preparati(m than the 
foregoing can be made by mixing 1^ fluid 
ounces oil of lavender, 5 fluid ounce oil of 
rosemary, 1 fluid ounce oil of lemon, and 
20 drops oil of cinnamon, with 1 gallon alco- 
hol. 

985. Genuine Cologne "Water. The 
following formula was published by one of 
the Farinas in the journal of the JSTorth Ger- 
man Apothecaries' Association. Dissolve 2 
ounces by weight purified benzoin, 4 ounces 
oil of lavender, and 2 ounces oil of rosemary, 
in 9 gallons 95 per cent, fine Cologne spirits. 
To this solution add successively, 10^ ounces 
each of the oils of neroli, neroli petit-grain, 
and lemon ; 20f ounces each of the oils of 
sweet orange peel, limes, and bergamot ; to- 



lis 



PERFUMED SPIRITS. 



gether with tincture of rose-geranium flowers, 
sufficient to suit the taste. Macerate for 
some weeks, then fill into flasks. 

986. Fine Cologne Water. Take of 
pm-e 95 per cent. Cologne spirits, 6 gallons ; oil 
of neroli, 4 ounces; oil of rosemary, 2 ounces; 
oil of orange, 5 ounces ; oil of citron, 5 ounces; 
oil of bergamot, 2 ounces ; mix with agita- 
tion ; then allow it to stand for a few days 
perfectly quiet before bottling. 

987. Cologne Water, Second duality. 
Pure 95 per cent, alcohol, 6 gallons ; oil of 
neroli, 2i ounces ; oil of rosemary, 2 ounces ; 
oil of orange peel, 4 ounces ; oil of lemon, 4 
ounces ; oil of bergamot, 4 ounces. Treat in 
the same way as the last. 

988. Eau des Carmes; Eau de Me- 
lisse ; Compound Spirit of Balm. Fresh 
flowering balm, 24 ounces ; yellow rind of 
lemon, cut fine, 4 ounces ; cinnamoi., cloves, 
and nutmeg (bruised), of each 2 ounces ; 
coriander seed (bruised), 1 ounce; dried an- 
gelica root, 1 ounce ; rectified spirit, 1 gallon. 
Macerate for 4 days, and distill in a water- 
bath. 

989. Fine Lavender Water; orEaude 
Lavande. Take 2 ounces (avoirdupois) finest 
oil of lavender (Mitcham), essence of musk 
(finest), 1 Imperial fluid ounce ; essence of 
ambergris (finest), and oilof bergamot (recent), 
of ^,ach i- ounce ; rectified spirit (90 per cent., 
scentless), ^ gallon; mix by agitation. Yery 
fine without distillation ; but better for it, in 
which case the essences should be added to the 
distillate. Delightfully and powerfully fra- 
grant. ( Cooley. ) 

990. Smitli's Lavender Water. 
Take ^ ounce (avoirdupois) oil of lavender 
(Mitcham); essence of ambergris, J ounce; 
eau de Cologne (finest), J Imperial pint; rec- 
tified spirit, i pint ; mix by agitation. Yery 
fragrant, and much esteemed. The ordinary 
lavender water is usually made with spirit at 
proof, or even much weaker ; hence its in- 
ferior quality to that of the higher class of 
perfumers. 1 ounce of true English oil of 
lavender is all that will perfectly combine 
with 1 gallon of proof spirit (or 1 drachm to 
the pint) ; any excess rendering it milky or 
cloudy. 

991. Common Lavender Water. En- 
glish oil of lavender, 3 ounces ; rectified spirit 
(90 per cent.), 1 gallon. Dissolve. Cordial, 
and fragrant. 

992. Eau de Bouquet. Take of spirit 
of rosemary, essence of violets, and orange- 
flower water, of each 1 Imperial fluid ounce ; 
oil of bergamot and oil of jasmin, of each 1 
fluid drachm ; oil of lavender and oil of ver- 
bena, of each k fluid drachm ; eau de rose, 5 
pint; rectified spirit, li pints; mix. A de- 
lightful perfume. Yarious other similar 
formulae are employed. 

993. Eau de Mar6cliale. Take of es- 
sence of violets, 1 Imperial fluid ounce ; oil of 
bergamot and oil of cloves, of each J ounce 
(avoirdupois); orange-flower water, ^ pint; 
rectified spirit, 1 pint; mix. An agreeable 
and favorite perfume. 

994. Eau d'Ambre Royale ; Eau 
Royale. Take of essence of ambergris and 
essence of musk, of each 1 Imperial fluid 
drachm ; eau d'Ambrette and eau de fleurs 
d'oranges, of each 24 fluid ounces; rectified 



spirit, 5 fluid ounces ; mix. Yery agreeable 
and durable. 

995. Eau d'Ambrette; or Esprit 
d'Ambrette. Take 1 pound (avoii'dupois) 
grains dAmbrette (musk-mallow seed, bruis- 
ed); rectified spirit, 1 Imperial quart ; water, | 
pint ; digest for 7 or 8 days, and distill off 1 
quart. Yery fine. Commonly sold as "Es- 
sence dAmbrette.'' "When used alone, a very 
few drops of essence of ambergris and esprit 
de rose improve it. 

996. Fine Hungary Water. Take 2 
pounds (avoirdupois) rosemary- tops (in blos- 
som) ; i pound sage (fresh) ; rectified spirit, 3 
Imperial quarts ; water, 1 quart ; digest for 10 
days, throw the whole into a still, add li 
pounds common salt, and draw over 6 pints. 
To the distillate add 1 ounce bruised Jamaica 
ginger, digest a few days, and either decant 
or filter. The old plan of adding the ginger 
before distillation is wrong, as the aromatic 
principle of the root does not pass over with 
the vapor of alcohol. 

997. Common Hungary Water. 
Take I5 to 2 Imperial fluid drachms pure 
oil of rosemary ; oil of lavender (English), 5 
fluid drachm; orange-flower water § pint; 
rectified spirits, 11 pints; mix. ISo. 996 is 
the genuine formula. This is the perfume 
usually sold by the perfumers. Spirit of rose- 
mary is now commonly sold for it by the 
druggists. 

998. Simple Perfumed Spirits— Es- 
prits. The simple perfumed spirits (esprits) 
and odoriferous tinctu.res are principally used 
in making compound eaux, esprits, &c. Their 
common strength, per pint, is, of — 

Attar of roses, i fluid drachm ; neroli, es- 
sence de petit grain, of each Ig to 2 fluid 
drachms; essential oils (ordinary), 5 fluid 
ounce; concentrated essences, 2 to 2^ fluid 
ounces. The spirit of wine employed for 
them should in no case be weaker than 75 
per cent., and for spirit of roses (esprit de 
rose), it should be, at the least, 90, or else 
little of the attar will be dissolved. These 
proportions may be adopted for aU the simple 
spirits of the perfumer for which separate 
formulee are not given in this work, and even 
iu place of those so given, at the convenience 
of the operator, when intended for the use 
just mentioned. When flowers, leaves, seeds, 
(fee, are employed, the proportions may be I5 
to 3, or even 5 pounds to the gallon of the 
distillate or product, according to their 
nature ; and, with certain flowers, the pro- 
cess must be repeated with fresh flowers, as 
often as necessary. To mature and bring out 
the full fragrance of distilled spirits, they 
should be kept for some time in a cellar, or 
other cool situation, previously to being used 
or offered for sale. The same applies, though 
in a less degree, to perfumed spirits prepared 
by the other methods. 

999. Esprit de Bergamotte. Take 5 
Imperial fluid drachms oil of bergamot (finest, 
recent) ; oil of rose-geranium and oil of ver- 
bena, each 2 fluid drachm ; essence of am- 
bergris, 2 fluid drachms ; essence of musk, i 
fluid drachm; rectified spirit, 1 pint; mix. 
Yery fine. For a second quality (usually 
called best), 1 quart of spirit (70 per cent.) is 
used ; for a third quality, 3 to 4 pints at 
proof. 



PERFUMED SPIRITS. 



113 



1000. Eau de Lavande de Millefleurs. 

Take 1 quart eau de lavande ; oil of cloves, 
1^ fluid drachms ; oil of cassia and essence of 
ambergris, each i fluid drachm ; mix. 

1001. Esprit de Rose. The compound 
perfume sold under this name is commonly 
made as follows : Take 1 Imperial pint finest 
simple esprit de rose {see No. 998) ; essence 
of ambergris and oil of rose-geranium, each § 
fluid drachm ; mix. Delicately fragrant. 

1002. Esprit de Bouquet. Take 4 Im- 
perial fluid drachms oil of lavender; oil of 
bergamot and oil of cloves, each Ik fluid 
drachms ; essence of musk and oil of verbena, 
each 5 fluid drachm ; attar of roses, 5 to 6 
drops ; and rectified spirit, 1 pint ; mix, and 
agitate frequently for a day or two. A very 
powerful and agreeable scent. 

1003. Eau d'H61iotrope. Take essence 
of ambergris, coarsely powdered, i Imperial 
fluid drachm; vanilla, -J ounce avoirdupois ; or 
ange-flower water, i pint; rectified spirit, 1 
quart ; digest for a week, and then decant or 
filter. 5 or 6 drops each of oil of bitter al- 
monds and cassia are sometimes added. Used 
both as a cosmetic and perfume. 

1004. Esprit de Jasmin Odorant. 
Take extrait de jasmin, and rectified spirit, 
each ^ Imperial pint ; essence of ambergris, 4 
fluid drachm; neroli (finest), 8 or 10 drops; 
mix. A delicate and favorite foreign scent. 

1005. Millefleur Water. Yery pm-e 
rectified spirit, 9 pints; balsam of Peru (gen- 
uine) and essence of cloves, each 1 ounce ; 
essences of bergamot and musk, each 2 ounces ; 
essences of neroli and thyme, each i ounce ; 
eau de fleurs d' oranges, 1 quart; mix well. 
Yery fine. 

1006. Honey Water (Eau de Miel). 
Eectified spirit, 8 pints (Imperial) ; oil of 
cloves, oil of lavender, oil of bergamot, of 
each ^ ounce avoirdupois ; musk, 15 grains ; 
yellow-sanders shavings, 4 ounces ; digest for 
8 days, and add 2 pints each of orange-flower 
and rose waters. 

1007. Honey Water. (With Honey.) 
White honey, 8 ounces avoirdupois ; coriander 
seed, 8 ounces; fresh lemon-peel, 1 ounce; 
cloves, f ounce; nutmeg, benzoin, styrax 
calamita, of each 1 ounce ; rose and orange- 
flower water, of each 4 ounces ; rectified 
spirit, 3 Imperial pints ; digest for a few days, 
and filter. Some receipts add 3 drachms 
of vanilla, and direct only k ounce of nutmeg, 
storax, and benzoin. 

1008. Rose Water. The ordinary best 
rose-water of the stores, particularly of the 
wholesale druggists who deal largely in the 
article, is generally made as follows: — Dissolve 
attar of roses, 6 drachms avoirdupois, in strong- 
est rectified spirit (hot), llmperial pint; throw 
the solution into a 12-gallon carboy, and add 
10 gallons pure distilled water, at 180° to 185° 
Fahr.; at once cork the carboy (at first 
loosely), and agitate the whole briskly (at first 
cautiously), until quite cold. The product is 

I really superior to much of the trash carelessly 
adistilled from a scanty quantitj of rose-leaves, 

and sold as rose water. (See Xos. 1071 and 

1079). 

1009. Orange-Flower Water. The 
genuine imported article is one of the most 
delightfully fragrant of all the odoriferous dis- 
tilled waters. An imitation may be made as 



foUows : — Take of orange-flowers, 7 pounds 
avoirdupois; fresh thin yeUow-peel of bitter 
oranges, 6 to 8 ounces ; water, 2 Imperial gal- 
lons; macerate 24 hours, and then distill 1 
gallon. 

1010. Orange-Flower Water. An- 
other method is as foUows. — Orange- flowers, 
12 pounds avoirdupois ; water, 36 pounds ; 
distill 24 pounds for double orange-flower 
water ; this, with an equal quantity of dis- 
tilled water, forms the single. The flowers 
should not be put into the still till the water 
nearly boils. 

1011. Florida Water. Dissolve in h 
gallon 90 per cent, alcohol, 1 ounce each oil of 
lavender, oil of bergamot, and oil of lemon ; 
and of oil of cloves and cinnamon 1 drachm 
each ; add 1 gallon water, and filter. 

1012. Florida Water. Oil of berga- 
mot, 3 ounces ; oil of cinnamon, 4 drachms ; 
tincture of benzoin, 2 ounces ; 75 per cent, al- 
cohol, 1 gallon. Mix and filter. (See No. 
976.) 

1013. Fine Florida Water. Take 2 
drachms each of the oils of lavender, berga- 
mot, and lemon ; 1 drachm each of tincture 
of turmeric and oil of neroli ; 30 drops oil of 
balm and 10 drops oil of rose ; mix the above 
with 2 pints deodorized alcohol. (See No. 
976.) 

1014. Tincture of Coriander. Pow- 
der coarsely 4 ounces coriander seed, and 
macerate for 15 days in 1 pint 95° alcohol ; 
strain and filter. 

1015. Tincture of Nutmegs. Bruise 
well 6 ounces nutmegs in I5 pints 95° alco- 
hol ; let it remain for a couple of weeks, stir- 
ling occasionally ; then press through a coarse 
cloth, and filter. Tincture of ginger, mace, 
and other spices are prepared by the same 
method. 

1016. Tincture of Storax. Macerate 
5 ounces storax in 3 pints 95° alcohol, untU 
dissolved, then filter. 

1017. Alcoholate of Roses. Macerate 
2 pounds fresh roses in 2 quarts alcohol of 95° 
and 1 pint water for 12 hours ; then distill by 
means of a water-bath. If a superior article 
is required, the alcoholate thus prepared may 
be used to macerate 2 pounds more roses, and 
then distilled as before. 

1018. Tincture of VaniUa. Steep 2 
ounces vanilla, cut into small pieces, in 1 pint 
alcohol, for about a month ; stir frequently, 
and filter. 

1019. Tincture of Benzoin. In 2| 
quarts alcohol of 95°, macerate 8 ounces 
powdered benzoin until dissolved, then filter 
it and bottle ; cork closely. 

1020. Tinctur© of Balsam of Peru. 
Macerate 8 ounces liquid balsam of Peru ia 3 
pints 95° alcohol ; when dissolved, filter. 

1021. Tincture of Grain of Paradise. 
Macerate 4 ounces coarsely powdered gi-ain 
of paradise for 15 days ir 1 pint alcohol of 
95°, then press through a cL^th and filter. 

1022. Tincture of Balsam of Tolu. 
Dissolve 5 ounces balsam of Tolu in 3 pints 
alcohol, and filter. 

1023. Tincture of Cardamoms. Bruise 
4 ounces cardamoms, and macerate 2 weeks 
in alcohol of 95° ; press through a cloth and 
filter. 

1024. Tincture of Ambergris. Pow- 



114. 



FLAVORING EXTBACTS 



der thoroughly 1 ounce ambergris and 5 
ounce sugar in a warm mortar ; then dissolve 
2 ounce carbonate of potash in 14 ounces alco- 
holate of roses, and add to it 3i ounces tinc- 
ture of musk {see No. 1025); macerate the 
whole for about 1 montK, and filter. 

1025. Tincture of Musk. Eub k 
ounce musk in a warm mortar with a little 
sugar; macerate for a month in 7 ounces 
alcohol containing 1 ounce each tincture of 
ambergris and tincture of vanilla. Filter 
thoroughly" and then add a few drops of attar 
of roses. 

1026. Economical Perfumes. The 
cheap perfumes which are offered for sale in 
small fancy bottles, are of the simplest kind, 
and from the nature of the case, made of the 
least expensive materials. The following are 
the leading mixtures, which are sold under 
the names deemed the most likely to prove 
attractive : 

Mix 1 ounce essence of bergamot, or attar 
of santal, with 1 pint spirits of wine. 

Mix 5 ounce each of the attars of lavender 
and bergamot, and 1 drachm attar of cloves, 
with 1 pint spirit of wine. 

Mix J ounce attar of lemon grass, and 2 
ounce essence of lemons, with 1 pint spirit of 
wine. 

Mix i" ounce attar of petit- grain, and ^ ounce 
attar of orange peel, with 1 pint spirits of 
wine. 

These mixtures are filtered through blotting 
paper with the addition of a little magnesia 
to make them bright. It would be well if all 
the cheap perfumes put up in attractive bot- 
tles were as good as these mixtm-es. A large 
proportion of them are far inferior, and fre- 
quently little more than weak perfumed wa- 
ters. 

1027. To Make Imitation Bay Rum. 
The genuine bay rum is made by digesting 
the leaves of the Bay plant (an aromatic 
plant which grows in the West Indies), in 
ram, and subsequent distillation. The imita- 
tion is prepared from the essential oil obtained 
from the Bay plant. Mix 1 ounce of oil of 
Bay (or f ounce oil of Bay, and ^ ounce of 
either oil of pimento, aUspice, or cloves), with 
4 gallons 95 per cent, alcohol; then add 
gradually 4 gallons of water, shaking the 
mixture constantly. If the mixture should 
become milky, the addition of a little alcohol 
will make it clear. Probably the best imita- 
tion is as follows : 10 fluid drachms oil of 
Bay, 1 fluid drachm oil of pimento, 2 fluid 
ounces acetic ether, 3 gallons alcohol, and 21 
gallons water. Mix, and after 2 weeks' re- 
pose, filter. 

1028. West India Bay Rum. Take 
2 pounds of leaves of the myrtus acris, 5 
pound cardamoms, 2 ounces cassia, I5 ounces 
cloves, and 9 quarts rum. Distill Ih gallons. 
Bay rum may be colored with tincture of 
saffron, or with a mixture of equal parts cara- 
mel {see No. 694) and tincture of turmeric. 

1029. Cheap Bay Rum. Saturate a i 
pound block of carbonate of magnesia with 
oil of Bay ; pulverize the magnesia, place it 
in a filter, and pour water through it until 
the desired quantity is obtained, then add al- 
cohol. The quantity of water and of alcohol 
employed depends on the desired strength 
and quality of the Bay rum. 



TO Prepare Flavoring Ex- 
tracts. The foUowmg excellent 
receipts, taken from the "American Journal 
of Pharmacy," are by Prof. "W. Procter, Jr. 

1031. Lemon Extract. Expose 4 
ounces of the exterior rind of lemons in the 
air until partially dry; then bruise in a 
wedge wood mortar ; add to it 2 quarts dedor- 
ized alcohol of 95^^, and agitate until the color 
is extracted ; then add 6 ounces recent oil of 
lemon. If it does not become clear imme- 
diately, let it stand for a day or two, agitating 
occasionally. Then filter. 

1032. Orange Extract. Follow the 
same method as for lemon extract, using 4 
ounces exterior rind of oranges, 1 quart of 
deodorized alcohol of 95°, and 2 ounces recent 
oil of orange. 

1033. Extract of Bitter Almonds. 
Mix together 4 ounces oil of bitter almonds, 

1 ounce tinctm-e of tm-meric, and 1 quart 95° 
alcohol. 

1034. To Neutralize the Poison in 
Extract of Bitter Almonds. As this ex- 
tract is poisonous in a quantity, it is better to 
deprive it of its hydi'ocyanic acid as follows : — 
Dissolve 2 ounces sulphate of non in a pint 
of water ; in another pint of water slake 1 
ounce lime recently burned ; mix them to- 
gether, and shake the mixture with 4 ounces 
oil of bitter almonds. Distill in a glass retort 
until the whole of the oil has passed over; 
and after allowing the oil time to separate 
from the water, remove it for use. 

1035. Extract of Rose. Bruise 2 
ounces of hundred-leaved rose-leaves ; make 
an extract from them by macerating in 1 
quart deodorized alcohol ; press the quart of 
alcohol out, and add to it 1 drachm oil of rose, 
and filter through paper. If there are no red 
rose leaves, a little tincture of cochineal will 
give a pale rose tint. 

1036. Extract of Cinnamon. Dissolve 

2 drachms oil of cinnamon in 1 pint deodor- 
ized alcohol ; add gradually 1 pint of water, 
and then stir in by degrees 4 ounces powdered 
Ceylon cinnamon ; agitate several hours, and 
filter through paper. 

1037. Extract of Nutmegs. Mix 2 
drachms oil of nutmegs with 1 ounce pow- 
dered mace ; macerate for 12 hours in 1 quart 
deodorized alcohol, and filter. 

1038. Extract of Ginger. Pack 4 
ounces powdered ginger in a percolator, 
moisten it with a little alcohol, then pour on 
alcohol until 1^ pints of tincture have passed 
through. Mix this with 8 ounces svrup. 

1039. Extract of Black Pepper. This 
is prepared from powdered pepper in the 
same manner as the extract of ginger, pouring 
on alcohol until a quart has passed through, 
and omitting the syrup. 

1040. Extract of Capsicum. Prepared 
from powdered capsicum, in the same manner 
as black pepper. 

1041. Extract of Coriander. Mix 4 
oimces powdered coriander with 1 drachm oil 
of coriander; add the mixture to 1^ pints al- 
cohol of 95°, and ^ pint water ; macerate for 
24 hours, decant the liquid ; put the matter 
that has settled into a percolator, and pour on 
it the decanted liquid, adding alcohol until a 
quart has run through. 



ARTIFICIAL FRUIT ESSENCES. 



115 



1042. Extract of Vanilla. Cut 1 ounce 
vauilla into small pieces, and triturate with 2 
ounces sugar to a coarse powder ; put it into 
a percolator, pour on it diluted alcohol until 
1 pint has run through — then mix with 1 pint 
syrup. 

" 1043. Extract of Celery. Bruise 2 
ounces celery seeds, and put into a percola- 
tor; pour on 1 pint deodorized alcohol,, then 
pour on water till a pint of extract has passed 
through ; triturate with 1 drachm carbonate 
of magnesia, and filter. 

1044. Extract of Soup-herbs. Put 
into a percolator 1 ounce each of thyme, 
sweet marjoram, sweet basil, and summer 
savory, and 1 drachm celery seeds. Pour on 
them sufficient diluted alcohol to make 1 pint 
of extract. 



Artificial Fruit Essences. 

/^ These are composed chiefly of com- 
pound ethers, which possess the odor and 
flavor of certain fruits. In some of the fol- 
lowing receipts, where tartaric, oxalic, suc- 
cinic or benzoic acid enters into the composi- 
tion of an essence, it must be understood that 
these acids are not to be used in their pure 
state, but in the form of saturated solutions 
{see No. 27) in cold alcohol. Glycerine will 
be found as an ingredient in nearly all these 
artificial essences ; it seems to blend and har- 
monize the difl'erent odors. 

1046. Peach Essence. This is a mix- 
ture of 5 parts glycerine, 2 parts aldehyde, 5 
parts acetate of ethyl, 5 parts formiate of 
ethyl, 5 parts butyrate of ethyl, 5 parts vale- 
rianate of ethyl, 5 parts cenanthylate of ethyl, 
1 part sebacic ether, and 2 parts salicylate of 
methyl. 

1047. Apricot Essence. To 4 parts 
glycerine add 1 part chloroform, 10 parts 
butyrate of ethyl, 5 parts valerianate of ethyl, 
1 part cenanthylate of ethyl, 2 parts salicylate 
of methyl, 1 part butyrate of amyl, and 1 
part saturated solution of oxalic acid in alco- 
hol. (5ee.Yo. 1045.) 

1048. Plum Essence. To 8 parts gly- 
cerine, add 5 parts of aldehyde, 5 parts acet- 
ate of ethyl, 1 part formiate of ethyl, 2 parts 
butyrate of ethyl, and 4 parts cenanthylate of 
ethyl. 

1049. Cherry Essence. Take 3 parts 
glycerine, 5 parts acetate of ethyl, 5 parts 
benzoate of ethyl, 1 part cenanthylate of ethyl, 
and 1 part saturated solution {see No. 1045) of 
benzoic acid in alcohol, 

1050. Black Cherry Essence. Mix 10 
parts acetate of ethyl with 5 parts benzoate 
of ethyl, 2 parts cenanthylate of ethyl, 1 part 
saturated solution of oxalic acid, and 2 parts 
solution of benzoic acid. {See No. 1045.) 

1051. Lemon Essence. To 5 parts gly- 
cerine, 1 part chloroform and 1 part nitric 
ether, add 2 parts aldehyde, 10 parts acetate 
of ethyl, 10 parts valerianate of amyl, 10 
parts solution of tartaric acid, and 1 part sat- 
urated solution of succinic acid. {See No. 
1045 ) 

1053. Pear Essence. To 10 parts gly- 
cerine add 5 parts acetate of ethyl and 10 
parts acetate of amyl. 

1053. Orange Essence. With 10 parts 



glycerine, mix 2 parts chloroform, 2 parts alde- 
hj'de, 5 parts acetate of ethyl, 1 part each of 
formiate, butyrate and benzoate of ethyl, 1 
part salicylate of methyl, 10 parts acetate of 
amyl, 10 parts essence of orange, and 1 part 
saturated solution of tartaric acid. {See No. 
1045.) 

1054. Apple Essence. To 4 parts gly- 
cerine, 1 part chloroform, and 1 part of nitric 
ether, add 2 parts aldehyde, 1 part acetate of 
ethyl, 10 parts valerianate of amyl, and 1 
part saturated solution of oxalic acid. {See 
No. 1045.) 

1055. Grape Essence. To 10 parts gly- 
cerine and 2 parts chloroform, add 2 parts 
aldehyde, 2 parts formiate and 10 parts cenan- 
thylate of ethyl, 1 part salicylate of methyl, 
and 5 parts tartaric and 3 parts succinic acids 
in saturated solution. {See No. 1045.) 

1056. Gooseberry Essence. To 1 part 
aldehyde add 5 parts acetate, 1 part benzoate 
and 1 part cenanthylate of ethyl, and 5 parts 
saturated solution of tartaric, and 1 part each 
of the same of succinic and benzoic acids. 
{See No. 1045.) 

1057. Raspberry Essence. To 4 parts 
glycerine and 1 part nitric ether, add 1 part 
aldehyde, 5 parts acetate of ethyl, and 1 part 
each di formiate, butyrate, benzoate and cenan- 
thylate of ethyl, 1 part sebacic ether, 1 part 
salicylate of methyl, 1 part each acetate and 
butyrate of amyl, 5 parts tartaric and 1 part 
succinic acid in saturated solution. {See No. 
1045.) 

1058. Strawberry Essence. To 2 
parts glycerine and 1 part nitric ether add 5 
parts acetate, 1 part formiate and 5 parts buty- 
rate of ethyl, 1 part salicylate of methyl, and 
3 parts acetate and 2 parts butyrate of amyl. 

1059. Melon Essence. Take 3 parts 
glycerine, 2 parts aldehyde, 1 part fonniate, 4 
parts butyrate and 5 parts valerianate of 
ethyl, and 10 parts sebacic ether. 

1060. Pineapple Essence. To 3 parts 
glycerine and 1 part chloroform add 1 part 
aldehyde, 5 parts butyrate of ethyl and 10 
parts butyrate of amyl. 



Extraits ; Extracts. in 
French perfumery these are, appro- 
priately, strong spirituous solutions, either 
simple or compound, of the essential oils and 
odorous principles of plants and other sub- 
stances, obtained by infusion or digestion, a« 
distinguished from those that are olStained by 
distillation and direct solution. Under the 
term, however, are often classed many per- 
fumes prepared with rectified spirit by the 
latter methods, and which are highly charged 
with the fragrant matter, or matters, which 
they represent. The preparation of most of 
the extraits is simple enough, the chief care 
necessary being that the spirit be absolutely 
scentless and of sufficient strength, and that 
the oils and other materials be recent and 
perfectly pure. 

1062. Extrait de Rondeletia. Take 
12 drachms avoirdupois oil of lavender (Mitch- 
am); oil of cloves, 5 drachms; oil of berga- 
mot, 4 drachms ; oil of verbena (or neroli), 1 
drachm; essence of ambergris and essence 



116 



PERFUMED WATERS. 



of musk, of each 5 Imperial fluid drachm; 
rectified spirit (90 per cent.), 1 pint ; mix. A 
rich and highly esteemed perfume. 

1063. Extrait de Millefleurs. Take 4 
grains finest grain musk ; finest ambergris, 6 
grains ; oil of lemon, 6 drachms ; oil of laven- 
der (English), and oil of cloves, each 4 
drachms ; liquid storax (genuine), 1 drachm ; 
oil of verbena, oil of pimento and neroli, of 
each 12 drops (minims); rectified spirit, 1 
Imperial pint; macerate in a warm room, 
with frequent agitation, for 2 or 3 weeks. 
Yery fine. The omission of the storax ren- 
ders it paler, and thus preferable to some per- 
sons. 

1064. Jockey Club Bouquet. Mix 1 
pint extract of rose, 1 pint extract of tubem^^c, 
^ pint extract of cassia, 4 ounces extract of 
jasmin, and 3 ounces tincture of civet. Filter 
the mixture. 

1065. Bouquet de Millefleurs. Mix 

1 pint extract of rose ; | pint each of the ex- 
tracts of tuberose, jasmin, orange-flower, 
cassia, and violet ; 4 ounces essence of cedar, 

2 ounces each of the tinctures of vanilla, am- 
bergris, and musk ; 5 pint essence of rose, 1 
ounce attar of bergamot, and 10 drops each 
of the attars of almonds, neroli, and cloves. 
Let the mixture stand for a week, and then 
filter. 

1066. Bouquet de Kondeletia. Mix 
2 ounces attar of lavender, 1 ounce attar of 
cloves, 1 ounce attar of bergamot, 3 drachms 
attar of roses, 4 ounces each of the tinctures 
of musk, vanilla, and ambergris, with 1 gallon 
deodorized alcohol. After a month's repose, 
filter. 

1067. Imitation Lily of the Valley. 
This much admired perfume is made by mix- 
ing together i pint extract of tuberose, 1 
ounce extract of jasmin, 2 ounces extract of 
orange-flower, 3 ounces extract of vanilla, i 
pint extract of cassia, ^ pint extract of rose, 
and 3 drops attar of almonds. Keep this 
mixture for a month and then use. 

1068. Imitation Essence of Myrtle. 
Mix together and allow to stand for 2 weeks, 
5 pint extract of vanilla, 1 pint extract of 
roses, k pint extract of orange-flower, 5 pint 
extract of tuberose, and 2 ounces extract of 
jasmin. 

1069. Extract of Patchouli. Mix 1^ 
ounces attar of patchouli, and ^ ounce attar 
of rose, with 1 gallon rectified spirits. 



Ai^oniatic, Odoriferons, or 
-^^ Perfamed Waters, &c. 

These are strictly pure water charged by dis- 
tillation with the volatile, aromatic, and 
odorous principles of plants ; or they are so- 
lutions of these principles, chiefly the essen- 
tial oils, in distilled water. The simple fra- 
grant waters of the perfumers are of the 
former kind ; those of the wholesale druggists 
and of pharmacy belong to either class, ac- 
cording to the mode of their preparation. 

1071. Proportions of Aromatics 
Submitted to Distillation for Making 
Perfumed "Waters. The vegetable matter 
(bruised, if necessary), in the quantity ordered, 
is to be put into the still along with 2 gallons 



of pm-e water, but only 1 gallon drawn over. 
In this way the finest fragrant distilled waters 
may be produced from all flowers, and other 
aromatic vegetable substances. The points 
requisite to be attended to are, that the flowers 
be fresh, gathered after the sun has risen and 
the dew exhaled, and that sufficient water be 
used to prevent the flowers being burned, but 
not much more than is sufficient for this pur- 
pose. The quantities usually directed are : 
Roses, 8 pounds (avoirdupois); water, 2 gallons 
(Imperial) ; distill 1 gallon for single, and the 
same water with 8 pounds of fresh roses for 
double rose water. The usual quantities of 
aromatic material requu-ed in proportion to 
the amount of distilled water to be obtained, 
are given in classified form in the Journal de 
Pharmacie as follows : Fresh aromatic plants, 
such as wormwood, black-cheny, scurvy- 
rrass, hyssop, cherry-laurel, lavender, balm, 
mint, peach-leaves, roses, and sage, require 1 
part of the plant for each part distilled pro- 
duct desired. Fresh and dry aromatics, as 
bitter almonds, orange-flowers, melilot, horse- 
radish, elder, and tansy, require 1 part of the 
pL?.nt to 2 parts of distilled product. Dry and 
very aromatic plants, as angelica, green anise, 
juniper berries, camomile, canella, cascarilla, 
fennel, sassafras, linden-flowers, and valerian, 
require 1 part of the plant to each 4 parts 01 
distillate. These proportions will be some 
guide both in respect of the distilled waters 
referred to, and others not included in the list. 
In general, druggists draw over 2 gallons of 
water from the respective quantities of 
flowers, herbs, bark, or seeds, ordered in the 
pharmacopoeias, quantity rather than quality 
being their object. Manufacturing perfumers, 
on the contrary, either use an excess of flowers 
for their finer odoriferous waters, or they pre- 
serve only the first and stronger portion of 
the water that distills over; the remaindei' 
being separately collected and used for a 
second distillation with fresh flowers. _ In 
some cases, where a very superior quality is 
desired, they re-distill the water of the first 
distillation and preserve only the first f, or 
even only the first half, that passes over. 

1072. Elder-flower Water, Acacia- 
flower Water, and Bean-flower Water, 
are prepared in the same manner as rose water. 
{See Nos. 1071 and 1079.) 

1073. Directions for Distilling Per- 
fumed Waters. The following directions 
are, in the main, those given by the 
thoroughly practical chemist, Mr. Arnold 
J. Cooley. In the distillation of odoriferous 
waters, manufacturing perfumers employ 
their utmost care, in order to produce a 
highly fragrant article, free from any contam- 
ination that can vitiate the purity of then- 
odor, or lessen their keeping qualities. The 
still may be of copper, but the head and worm 
should be formed of solid tin. It should be 
furnished with a high and narrow neck to 
prevent the liquor in it spirting over into the 
neck and condensing- worm. A still furnished 
with a steam-jacket is the most convenient 
for the purpose, as the heat of steam, or of a 
salt-water bath, can alone be safely employed. 
The common plan is to reject the first 2 or 3 
fluid ounces that pass over, and to collect the 
remainder of the runnings until the proper 
quantity be obtained. The whole product is 



PERFUMED WATERS, 



117 



then agitated together, and stored, loosely 
covered, in a cool cellar for some weeks, or 
even months, in order that it may lose its 
herbaceous odor and the rawness from recent 
stillage. It is a common practice to separate 
any volatile oil floating on waters after dis- 
tillation, hut Mr. Haselden, of England, re- 
commends the excess of oil to be well shaken 
with the water and the whole transferred to 
the stock vessel, where the oil will separate ; 
it keeps better thus treated, and full strength 
is ensured. He prefers the stock vessel to be 
of stoneware, furnished with a tap about 2 
inches from the bottom, whereby the water 
can be drawn out clear, the oil either rising 
to the top or sinking to the bottom, according 
to its specific gravity. As soon as it has ac- 
quired its full odor, or reached maturity, it is 
carefully decanted into bottles, which are then 
well corked or stopped, and stored in a moder- 
ately cool place. Some of the leading manu- 
facturing perfumers keep a separate still for 
each of their more delicate distilled waters, 
and thoroughly clean them out and dry them 
after each distillation, as it is extremely 
difficult to remove any odor or taint that ad- 
heres to the still, still-head, and worm. Even 
blowing steam through them for some hours 
will not always sufficiently puiify them for 
this species of distillation. In the preparation 
of distilled waters for medicinal purposes, a 
clean, sweet still, still-head, and worm, must 
also be employed. The two last should be of 
tin or glazed stoneware; and the receivers 
should be of glass or stoneware. The utmost 
care should be taken to prevent contamination 
of distilled waters by contact with copper, 
lead or zinc, since they slowly oxidize and 
dissolve these metals. In almost all cases, 
salted or pickled flowers, herbs, &c., are great- 
ly superior to the fresh vegetables for the 
preparation of fragrant distilled waters. 
When the former are employed the product 
has little or none of the herbaceous and raw 
odor which is always present when the latter 
are used, besides which they keep better, and 
reach maturity, or the full development of 
their odor, in a much shorter time. {See Ko. 
1349.) CarefuUy prepared distilled waters 
keep well, and are not liable to any change, 
but when the reverse is the case, particularly 
when the liquor in the still has spirted over 
the neck of the still-head into the condensing 
worm, they are apt to acetify, and even to be- 
come ropy and viscid. A common, but very 
objectionable plan, in such cases, is to agitate 
them with a httle carbonate of magnesia, and 
to filter them through paper. The only safe 
remedy is to re-distill them on the first indi- 
cation of such change, for magnesia weakens 
them. Indeed, all their essential oil and fra- 
grance may be removed by increasing the 
quantity of it. If magnes'ia, in any form, be 
used for filtering distilled waters, it should be 
the carbonate ; but a little of even that will 
be dissolved if the water be ever so slightly 
acidulous. 

1074. To Remove the Burnt Smell 
of Freshly Distilled Waters. The burnt 
smell of waters, frequentlj^ arising from care- 
less stilling, is usually lost, or greatly lessened, 
by freezing, or by exposm-e to a temperature 
approaching the freezing point ; but if the 
water be highly charged with essential oil, 



part of the latter will separate, and thus the 
water will lose some of its fragrance. (See 
No. 1076.) 

1075. To Prevent Distilled Waters 
from Souring. To prevent carelessly pre- 
pared distilled waters acetifying or turning 
sour, and to recover those which have begun 
to spoil, a common plan is to shake them up 
with a little calcined magnesia, or to dissolve 
in each pint of them 1 grain each of powdered 
borax and alum. This, however, is not to be 
recommended, as it unfits the waters for use 
as vehicles. Whenever it is unavoidably had 
recourse to, the best plan is to re-distill the 
water a few days afterwards. 

1076. Practical Suggestions for Ma- 
king Distilled Waters. There are certain 
general rules or points to be adhered to in dis- 
tilling perfumed waters : Dry, hard, or fibrous 
substances should be mechanically divided, 
and macerated in water before undergoing dis- 
tillation. Too great a quantity of materials 
should not be introduced at one time into the 
body of the still ; if this precaution be ne- 
glected, there is a risk of the liquid boiling 
over or spirting into the receiver. Ebullition 
should be attained as quickly as possible, and 
be continuous. Sufficient water should be 
left undistilled to cover the matter in the stiU, 
to guard against its coming in contact with 
the sides of the vessel. In this case the mat- 
ter would be decomposed by the heat, and 
yield empyreumatic products ; besides, if the 
distillation is carried too far, a slimy forma- 
tion is apt to adhere to the sides of the still, 
which would also be decomposed by the heat, 
and have a similar efiect on the product.' 
These risks may be greatly lessened, if not 
entirely avoided, by applying heat by means 
of an oil-bath, regulated by a thermometer ; 
and still better by a bath containing a solution 
of chloride of calcium (muriate of lime). Any 
degree of heat between 212*^ and 285° Fahr. 
may be obtained and sustained by regulating 
the strength of the solution. {See No. 7.) 
Another convenient method is by steam. {See 
No. 1077.) Waters distilled from plants are 
apt to have a smoky odor at first, even when 
the greatest care and precaution have been ob- 
served in their distillation; exposure for a short 
time to the air will remove this, after which 
they should be kept in closely-stoppered bot- 
tles, and preferably in bottles containing only 
sufficient for probable use at one time ; they 
should be entirely filled and closed air-tight. 

1077. Soubeiran's Steam Apparatus 
for Distilled Waters. The illustration given 
is a vertical section of Soubeiran's apparatus 
used in France for obtaining distilled waters. 
A cylindrical tinned-copper or iron boiler, A, 
of convenient size, say 34- feet high and 2 feet 
in diameter, is surmounted by an expanded 
head or capital, B, which is furnished with an 
inner ledge, forming a kind of gutter, to re- 
ceive the liquid condensed on the inner surface 
of the capital, and opening into the exit tube, 
e. About 6 inches from the bottom of tho 
cylinder is placed a false bottom or diaphragm, 
c, pierced with small holes. A steam pipe, d, 
having a stop-cock, a, is introduced in the 
cylinder in the manner shown, terminating in 
an expansion, &, perforated Hke the rose of a 
watering-pot, and located a little below th* 
diaphragm. 



118 



AROMATIC VINEaAB. 



The material to be distilled, after proper 
preparation, is placed upon the diaphragm, 
the capital, B, is applied and luted with dex- 
trine paste ; steam is passed through the tube, 




and issuing from 5, passes through the material, 
becomes loaded with the volatile matter, rises 
into the capital, condenses, and passes through 
f, into a worm or other suitable condenser. 

1078. Vanilla Water. Macerate 1 
pound vanilla in coarse powder, and 5 pounds 
salt in 2^ gallons water for 24 hours. Then 
distill over rapidly 1 gallon. 

1079. Rose Water. Take 48 Troy 
ounces pale rose, and 16 pints water. Mix 
them and distill 8 pints. When it is desirable 
to keep the rose for some time before distill- 
ing, it may be preserved by being well mixed 
with i its weight of chloride of sodium (table 
salt). U. S. Ph. {See No. 1008.) 

1080. To Prepare Aromatic Waters 
from Essential Oils. The United States 
Pharmacopoeia, although not discarding alto- 
gether the process of distillation in the prepa- 
ration of aromatic water, directs, in prefer- 
ence, that water should be impregnated with 
the volatile oil by trituration with carbonate 
of magnesia, and subsequently filtered. This 
is the most simple and easy process. The wa- 
ter is obtained pure and transparent, the mag- 
nesia being separated by the filtration. The 
object of the magnesia is simply to enable the 
oil to be brought to a minute state of subdi- 
vision, and thus present the largest possible 
smface to the water; but its use is open to the 
objection that it is slightly soluble in water, 
and is apt to produce, under certain circum- 
stances, a slightly flocculent precipitate. It 
has been recommended to use porcelain clay, 
finely powdered glass, or pumice stone, in- 
stead of magnesia, as these substances are 
wholly insoluble. {See No. 1073 and 1081.) 

1081. Aromatic or Perfumed Waters. 
Take 2 fluid drachms of the essential oil of 
the plant, triturate with 2 drachms levigated 
powdered silex ; then add very gradually, 
with constant trituration, 8 pints distilled wa- 
ter. After brisk agitation for some time, filter 
the solution through filtering paper wetted 
with pure water. This is a convenient method 
for the extemporaneous preparation of per- 
fumed waters, but, without great care in ma- 
nipulating, the products are inferior instrength 
to those obtained by distillation. Finely pow- 
dered or levigated glass may be used when si- 



lex (quartz) is unobtainable. Magnesia and 
sugar were each formerly used for the purpose, 
but are objectionable. {See No. 1080. 

1082. Aromatic or Perfumed Waters. 

Instead of preparing the waters directly from 
the essential oils, an essence may be made by 
dissolving 1 Imperial fluid ounce of the essen- 
tial oil in 9 fluid ounces rectified spirit ; 2 Im- 
perial fluid drachms of the essence agitated 
briskly for some time with 1 Imperial pint 
distilled water, and filtered through wet filtei 
ing paper, will make a good perfumed water. 
Cooley says this is an excellent formula for 
extemporaneous waters ; but the U. S. Dis. 
pronounces them feeble for medicated pur- 
poses, in the properties of their respective es- 
sential oils. {See No. 1008.) 



Aromatic Vinegar— Vinai- 
-nk. gre Aromatiqua tms 

is a compound of strong acetic acid with cer- 
tain powerful essential oils. To produce the 
finer qualities of aromatic vinegar, glacial 
acetic acid must alone be employed. Aromat- 
ic vinegar is used as a pungent and refreshing 
nasal stimulant in languor, faintness, nervous 
headaches, dimness of sight, &c. For this 
purpose it is generally dropped on a small 
piece of sponge placed in a stoppered bottle, 
or a vinaigrette, which is only smelt at. It 
forms a useful caustic for warts and corns. 
As it is highly corrosive, it should be kept 
from contact with the skin and clothes. 
{Cooleij.) 

1084. Fine Aromatic Vinegar. Take 
of glacial acetic acid, 1 pound avoirdupois; 
rectified spirit, 2 Imperial fluid ounces ; cam- 
phor (pure, crushed small), 2k ounces ; oil of 
cloves (finest), li drachms ; oil of rosemary, 
1 drachm ; oil of bergamot, oil of cinnamon, 
oil of lavender, oil of pimento, neroli (or es- 
sence de petit-grain), of each, i drachm ; mix 
(in a stoppered bottle), and agitate until the 
whole of the camphor is dissolved. Yery 
fine, and highly esteemed. 

1085. Aromatic Vinegar. Take of 
camphor, 1 ounce avoirdupois ; oil of cloves, 1 
drachm; oil of cedrat, and lavender (Mitch- 
am), of each 40 grains; oil of bergamot and 
thyme, of each 20 grains ; oil of cinnamon, 10 
grains ; glacial acetic acid, ^ pound ; mix as 
before. Yery fine. 

1086. Henry's Aromatic Vinegar. 
This resembles the preceding, except in being 
strongly scented with the oils of cloves, lav- 
ender, rosemary, and calamus aromaticus 
only. 

1087. Vinaigre Aromatique. Take of 
camphor, 1 ounce avoirdupois ; oil of cloves, 
15 grains ; oil of cinnamon, 10 grains ; oil of 
lavender (English), 5 or 6 grains; glacial 
acetic acid, i pint. As the last. It is im- 
proved by doubling the quantities of the es- 
sential oils. 

1088. Acetic Perfumes. The stronger 
aromatic or perfumed vinegars fall under this 
class of preparations ; as do also various 
esprits and eaux (alcooliques) to which a 
marked acetic odor has been given by the 
addition of concentrated acetic acid. The 
latter may be conveniently prepared by 
simply adding 1 to 1^ fluid ounces of glacial 



SMELLING SALTS— PERFUMED POWDEBS. 



119 



acetic acid to each ^ pint of scented spirit. 
For acetic eau de Cologne and other like per- 
fumes, li to 2 ounces of acid, per pint, is gen- 
erally suSicient. 



Omelling Salts. Sesqulcarbon- 
>^3 ate of amuionia commonly passes under 
this name, and, with the addition of a few- 
drops of essential oil, is frequently employed 
to till smelling bottles. Its pungency, how- 
ever, is neither so great nor so durable as that 
of the true or neutral carbonate of ammonia. 
The latter salt continues unchanged in com- 
position, and preserves its pungency as long 
as a particle of it remains unvolatilized. The 
portion only which flies off suffers decomposi- 
tion as it volatilizes, separating into gaseous 
ammonia and carbonic acid. The pungency 
of the sesquicarbonate, on the other hand, de- 
pends solely on its gradual decomposition, in 
the solid state, into carbonate of ammonia, 
which flies off under exposure to the air ; and 
into bicarbonate of ammonia, which is much 
less volatile and only slightly pungent, and 
which remains behind ; the weight of the lat- 
ter being far greater than one-half the weight 
of the original salt. Carbonate of ammonia, 
and not the sesquicarbonate, should, therefore, 
be alone used in filling smelling bottles, if a 
strong, agreeable, and durable pungency be 
desired. It is employed, either directly or in- 
directly, by the makers of all the more es- 
teemed smelHng salts of the day ; and their 
predecessors did the same, even long before 
the chemistry of the two salts, and the ration- 
ale of the properties which cause a preference 
for the one^ were known. ( Cooley. ) 

1090. Fine Smelling Salts. Take of 
carbonate of ammonia (crushed small), 1 
pound avoirdupois; oil of lavender (Mitcham), 
oil of bergamot, of each 1 Imperial fluid 
ounce ; oil of cloves, 2 fluid drachms ; oil of 
cassia, 1 fluid drachm. Eub them thoroughly 
together, sublime at a very gentle heat into 
a weU-cooled receiver, and at once put the 
product into a well-stoppered bottle, or bot- 
tles. The sublimation may be omitted, but 
the quality of the product suffers. This is 
varied in some samples, by substituting 1 
ounce of oil of lemon, or a little of the oils of 
rosemary and sweet flag (calamus aromaticus), 
for the oils of cloves and cassia; or by adding 
(after sublimation) a dash (2 or 3 drops per 
bottle) of essence of musk or essence royale. 

1091. Smelling Salts. As before, but 
taking as perfume, oil of bergamot, 2 fluid 
ounces ; oil of verbena, \ fluid ounce; attar of 
roses, 1 to 2 drachms. It is varied as in the 
last. 

1092. Smelling Salts. Same as :N^o. 
1090, but using oil of bergamot and lemon, 
of each, f fluid ounce ; essence de petit-grain, 
3 fluid drachms ; oil of cloves and cassia, of 
each, 1 fluid drachm ; varied, as before, at will. 

1093. Inexhaustible Smelling Salts. 
Take 1 pint liqu.id ammonia, 1 drachm attar 
of rosemary, 1 drachm attar of lavender, i 
di'achm attar of bergamot, and ^ drachm attar 
of cloves. Mix together by agitation in a 
very strong, well-stoppered bottle. To prepare 
a smelling-bottle of this mixture, fill a stopper- 
bottle with pieces of sponge, previously well 



beaten, washed and dried ; pour into the bot- 
tle as much of the mixture as the sponge will 
absorb, but not sufficient for a drop to escape 
if the ijottle be inverted. 

1094. Aromatic Spirit of Ammonia. 
Take of carbonate of ammonia, 8 ounces 
avoirdupois ; strong liquor of ammonia (.882) 
4 Imperial fluid ounces ; volatile oil of nut- 
meg, 4 fluid drachms ; oil of lemon, 6 fluid 
drachms; rectified spirit, 6 pints; water, 3 
pints ; mix, and distill 7 pints. Specific grav- 
ity .870. This is now the only authorized form- 
ula. The product is excellent, and very agree- 
able in use. (Br. Ph.) 

1095. Ammoniated Perfumes. These 
are prepared by either adding strong liquor of 
ammonia to the liquid perfumes (eaux, esprits, 
&c.,) in sufficient quantity to impart to them 
a pungent ammoniacal odor, or by adding to 
the articles, before distillation, the ingredients 
that, by their mutual reaction, produce am- 
monia. In the former case, 5 to l| fluid ounces 
of liquor of ammonia (.880-. 882), per pint, 
will be required, according to the nature of 
the preparation and the degree of pungency 
desired ; and in general, when much essential 
oil is present, a spirit of higher strength than 
usual should be employed for the esprit, to 
compensate for its subsequent dilution by the 
ammonia. In the other case, 4 to 5 drachms 
of sal ammoniac, and 7 to 8 drachms of car- 
bonate of potash for each pint of the product 
intended to be drawn over, are mixed with 
the cold ingredients just before distillation. 
For this use the liquor of ammonia must be 
perfectly free from tarry or empyreumatic 
matter, and have a purely ammoniacal odor. 

1096. Ammoniated Eau de Cologne ; 
Ammoniacal Cologne Water. As a per- 
fume, this is best prepared by either of the 
methods noticed under ammoniated perfumes. 
It is now very extensively employed as a sub- 
stitute for spirit of sal volatile. When in- 
tended for use in this way, a more agreeable 
and effective articb mav be produced by add- 
ing 1 ounce oi caibonata (.r;esquicarbonate) of 
animonia, and ^ ilnii ounce of the strong 
liquor of ammonia to each pint of the product, 
or intended product, which will then have 
about the strength of the officinal spirit of sal 
volatile (spiritus ammoui£e aromaticus) of the 
British Ph. That of the stores has usually 
only little more than half this strength. 

1097. Eau de Lavande Ammonia- 
cale. To each Imperial pint of eau de la- 
vande (see No. 989), add of liquor of ammonia 
(.880-.882), i to 1 fluid ounce. 

1098. Ammoniacal Lavender Water. 
Take of oil of lavender (English) 1 fluid 
ounce ; spirit of ammonia (caustic) 1^ pints ; 
mix. The product is the officinal preparation 
of the French. Used as a stimulating pungent 
scent, in faulting, headaches, <fec. 



Perfumed Powders and 
I^OTlgeS. Powders for the hair and 
skin have almost gone out of use. The basis of 
perfumed powders is either orris, or fine pearl 
starch. The perfume of the finest kinds is im- 
parted by alternating layers of starch and fresh 
flowers, the latter being afterwards separated 
by sifting. The simple perfumed powders thus 



120 



COSMETICS. 



obtained, bj judicious admixture, form com- 
pound or bouquet powders. The tediousness 
and expense of this process prevent its gener- 
al employment. The common mode is to 
scent by the direct addition of extracts or es- 
sential oils, or else to mix in powdered fra- 
grant material with the orris or starch. 

1100. Violet Powder. Wheat starch, 
12 pounds ; powdered orris, 2 pounds. Mix 
together, and add attar of lemon, h ounce ; 
attars of bergamot and cloves, each 2 drachms. 

1101. Poudre d'Iris. Powdered orris 
root, 12 pounds; powdered bergamot peel, 
and acacia flowers, each 8 ounces ; powdered 
cloves, 2 ounce. Mix and sift. 

1102. Prepared Bran for the Hair. 
Powdered wheat bran, 1 pound; powdered 
orris, 2 ounces. Mix and sift. 

1103. Poudre Noir for the Hair. 
Starch and orris in jSne powder, each 8 
ounces; charcoal and ivory black, in fine 
powder, each 1 ounce. Mix and sift. 

1104. Poudre Blonde for the Hair. 
Finely powdered starch and orris, 8 ounces 
each; as in the preceding, but with yellow 
ochre for the coloring matter. 

1105. Poudre a la Vanille Brune for 
the Skin or for Sachets. Powdered vanilla, 
i.'ose- leaves, lump storax, benzoin, rhodium, 
pallisandre and ebony woods, each 1 pound ; 
powdered cloves, 2 ounces ; powdered musk, 
2 drachms. Mix together with 3 pounds of 
starch ; sift, and add a few drops of extracts 
of tuberose and jasmin. 

1106. Poudre a I'CEillet Compos6e— 
for the Skin or Sachets. Powdered rose 
leaves and orris root, each 3 pounds ; pow- 
dered bergamot peel, 1 pound; powdered 
cloves and cinnamon, each 6 ounces ; pow- 
dered acacia and orange flowers, each 8 
oances; starch, 3 pounds. 

1 107. Paints or Rouges for the Skin. 
Faints or rouges are the means by which the 
natural color of the skin may be heightened 
or changed. They are, however, objectionable 
preparations, and the use of them extends 
very little beyond the theatres, where they 
are employed to produce stage efi'ect. 

1108. French White. This is the min- 
eral talc, or French chalk, finely powdered and 
Elicited. It forms the basis of the most harm- 
less rouges. Perfume is added as may be 
desired. 

1109. Pearl White. Pure oxide or 
;5ubnitrate of bismuth in powder. This pig- 
ment darkens in atmospheres containing sul- 
phide of hydrogen. 1 ounce triturated with 
4 ounces of orange-flower water makes liquid 
■white for theatrical use. 

1110. Pearl Powder. Precipitated 
chalk finely bolted and perfumed. The 
French add oxides of zinc and bismuth, each 
1 ounce to the pound of chalk. 

1111. Caution against Bismuth as a 
Cosmetic. The continued use of bismuth- 
white injures the skin, and ultimately pro- 
duces paralysis of its minute vessels, render- 
ing it yellow and leather-like — an efi'ect which, 
unfortunately, those who employ it generally 
{attempt to conceal by its freer and more fre- 
quent application. 

1112. Carmine Rouge. Finely bolted 
talc, 4 ounces; carmine, 2 drachms. Mix 
together with a little warm and dilute solu 



tion of gum tragacanth. For lighter shades, 
the proportion of carmine must be diminished. 
For commoner pastes, rose-pink replaces the 
carmine as coloring matter. It may be made 
into a pomade. 

1113. Bloom of Roses. Powdered 
carmine pf the best quality, 2 drachms, di- 
gested with strong ammonia, 4 ounces, in a 
tightly stoppered bottle for 2 days, at the 
ordinary temperature of the atmosphere. 
Then add rose water, 1 pint ; and essence of 
rose, 4 ounces. After standing for a week to 
settle, the clear liquid may be poured off 
from the sediment, and bottled. 

1114. Azure Paste. Talc and ultra- 
marine, finely bolted, equal parts, triturated 
with a solution of gum tragacanth into a stiff 
paste. 

1115. Enamel Powder. Take equal 
parts finely scraped talc or French chalk, and 
pearl-white; sufficient rouge or carmine to 
slightly tinge it ; mix. Used to conceal dis- 
colorations ; and, without the coloring, to 
whiten the skin. 



Cosmetics for the Skin 
and Complexion. The pre- 
parations under this head are designed to 
soften the skin and beautify the complexion. 
We annex receipts for the more important. 
The heating medium in the manufacture of 
them must be either a water or steam bath. 

1117. To Make Amandine. Put into 
a large marble mortar 2 ounces gum arable, 
and 6 ounces white honey; triturate, and 
when the mixture has been rubbed into a 
thick paste, add 3 ounces perfectly neutral 
almond shaving cream. {See No.QQ^.) Then 
continue the trituration until the mixture has 
become homogeneous. 2 pounds of fresh 
cold-pressed sweet almond oil are next allowed 
to flow from a can above into the mortar, but 
only as rapidly as it can be incorporated with 
the mass ; otherwise, if it enters in too large 
quantities, the blending is imperfect, and 
the amandine becomes oily instead of jelly- 
like and transparent, as it should be when the 
manipulation has been skillful. In summer 
temperatures it will be difficult to efiect a 
combination of all the oil ; and, therefore, the 
flow should be stopped as soon as the mixture 
becomes bright and assumes a crystalline lus- 
tre. The perfume should be mixed with the 
almond oil, and consists of ^ drachm attar of 
bitter almonds to every pound of paste. A 
little attar of rose and bergamot may also be 
added — about 1 drachm of each. As soon as 
finished it must be put in close pots. 

1118. To Use Amandine. To produce 
amandine of fine quality is a matter of 
some difficulty and labor, and requires ex- 
perience and considerable manipular skill. 
The details essential to success are noticed 
under " Emulsions." {See No. A'^.) A small 
quantity, say a lump of filbert size, gives with 
warm water a rich lather, which, when rubbed 
over the face and hands, imparts softness, and 
prevents chapping. It should be wiped off 
while still in lather, with a dry towel. 

1119. Glycerine Amandine. As the 
preceding, but adding, with the shaving 
cream, | to 1 ounce of Price's glycerine for 



COSMETICS. 



every ponnd of oil intended to be subsequently 
added. 

1120. Colored Amandine. Amandine 
may be colored green with spinach-leaves, 
and yellow and orange with palm oil or an- 
notto, by digesting or dissolving the sub- 
stance?^ in the oil before adding the scents. A 
beautiful scarlet or crimson may be given to 
it by adding a little liquid rouge or carmine 
(ammoniacal), just before removing it from the 
mortar. Olivine is a similar preparation to 
amandine, but made with olive-oil. It is 
often colored green. 

1121. Cosmetic Balsam of Honey. 
Take finest pale honey, 4 ounces (avoirdupois); 
glycerine (Price's), 1 ounce; unite by a gentle 
heat; when cold, add rectified spirit, 1 fluid 
ounce (Imperial); essence of ambergris, 6 
drops ; and at once bottle it. Used to soften 
and whiten the skin, prevent chaps, &c, 

1122. Freckle Balsam. To the balsam 
of honey prepared as directed in the last re- 
ceipt, add pure citric acid, 3 drachms. Used 
to prevent and remove freckles and discolora- 
tions. 

1123. Almond Paste. Reduce blanched 
almonds to a very smooth paste by patiently 
pounding them in a marble mortar, adding 
gradually, toward the end, a little rose-water, 
or orange-flower water, with a few drops of 
attar of roses or neroli, or a little eau de Co- 
logne, or other perfume, at will. Lastly, put 
the paste into covered porcelain pots or jars. 

1124. Bitter Almond Paste. Take 
equal parts bitter almonds and sweet almonds; 
and rose-water, a sufficient quantity ; and pro- 
ceed as before. Xo scent need be added. 
Both the preceding are occasionally diversified 
by the addition of either powdered spermaceti 
in weight equal to about i part of that of the 
almonds, or of 5 this weight of white soap. 
Sometimes the white of an %^g is added. 

1 1 25. Cold Cream. Take 1 ounce avoir- 
dupois each pure white wax and speiTuaceti, 
and ^ Imperial pint oil of almonds; melt, 
pour the mixtm-e into a marble or wedg- 
wood-ware mortar (or a porcelain basin), 
which has been heated by being immersed 
for some time in boiling water; add, very 
gradually, of rose-water, 4 fluid ounces ; and 
assiduously stir the mixtm-e until an emulsion 
is formed, and afterwards until the whole is 
very nearly cold, Lastly, put it into porce- 
lain or earthenware pots for use or sale. 

1126. Hudson's Cold Cream. This is 
prepared m the same way as the above, with 
the addition of 1 fluid ounce orange-flower 
water. 

1127. Sultana Cold Cream. Take I 
ounce avoirdupois each, pure siiermaceti and 
white wax ; almond-oil, and butter of cacao, 
each ^ pound ; melt, and stir in of balsam of 
Peru, 2 drachms. After repose, pour ofl" the 
clear portion, add orange-flower water, 2 Im- 
perial fluid drachms, and stir it briskly until it 
cokjretes. Used like coid cream, lip-salve, &c. 

1128. Creme de Cathay. Melt together 
over a water bath, white wax and spermaceti, 
each 2 drachms ; then add oil of sweet al- 
monds, 4 ounces, and Mecca balsam, 3 
drachms j next perfume with rose-water, 6 
arachms.* stir until cold. 

1129. Glycerine Cream. This superior 
cosmetic is the well-known cold-cream, {see 



121 



No. 1125), with glycerine substituted for rose- 
water. Melt together spermaceti, 6 ounces; 
and white wax, 1 ounce, in 1 pound of sweet 
almond oil. Then remove from the fire, and 
stir in Price's glycerine, 4 ounces ; and when 
congealing, perfume with attar of rose, 20 
drops. Other attars may be used as desired, 
in place of rose. 

1130. Rose Glycerine Cream. Sper- 
maceti, i ounce ; oil of sweet almonds, 2 
ounces; white wax, 1 ounce; glycerine, 4 
ounces : mix the spermaceti, white wax and 
oil of almonds together first ; then add the 
glycerine and stir the mixture until cool. 
Perfume with attar of rose. 

1131. Snow Cream. Melt 3 ounces 
spermaceti, 2 ounces white wax, and 12 
ounces fresh oil of almonds, in a water-bath ; 
pour it into a marble mortar, and stir briskly 
to prevent granulation ; when of the consist- 
ence of butter, triturate until the mixture has 
a white, creamy appearance ; then, during con- 
tinued trituration, add by degrees a mixture 
of 1 ounce double water of roses and 1 ounce 
odorless glycerine; incorporate for 20 minutes, 
and add 10 drops essence of roses ; beat for 
about half an hour, put into pots or jars, and 
close air-tight. 

1132. Fine Camphor Ice. Melt to- 
gether over a water-bath, white wax and 
spermaceti, each 1 ounce ; camphor, 2 ounces ; 
in sweet almond oil, 1 pound. jS'ext, triturate 
in the manner directed for amandine, and 
allow 1 pound of rose-water to flow in slowly 
during the operation. Then perfume with 
attar of rosemary, 1 drachm. An inferior and 
cheaper quantity may be made as follows : — 

1133. Camphor Ice. Oil of sweet al- 
monds, 2 ounces ; spermaceti, 4 ounces ; white 
wax, 2 ounces ; camphor, 5 ounce ; melt 
them over a water-bath, run in moulds of 
proper size and form. 

1134. Pate d'Amande au Miel. Rub 
together 1 pound honey and the yolks of 8 
eggs ; then gradually add sweet almond oil, 1 
pound, during constant trituration, and 
work in bitter almonds — blanched and ground 
to meal, 8 ounces ; finally perfume with attars 
of bergamot and cloves, each 2 drachms. 

1135. Pomade Rosat. Melt together 
white wax, 2 ounces ; oil of sweet almonds, 
4 ounces; alkanet, 3 drachms. Digest for 
several hours, strain, and add 12 drops attar 
of rose ; used for the lips. 

1136. Cacao Pomade. Take of cacao 
butter, oil of almonds, white wax (pure), 
equal parts ; melt them together, and stir 
until nearly cold. Used as an emollient skin- 
cosmetic, particularly for chapped lips, hands, 
&c. It is sometimes colored with a little 
palm-oil. Scent may be added at will. It is 
highly esteemed by some persons as a hair 
pomade. 

1 137. Creme de Psych6— for the lips. 
Vhite wax and spermaceti, each 1 ounce ; oil 
of sweet almonds, 5 ounces. Melt together, 
and pour in Mecca balsam, 1 drachm ; and 
stir until the mass congeals, then add 10 
grains powdered acetate of lead. 

1138. Lait Virginal. Orange-flower 
water, 8 ounces ; and tincture of benzoin, 2 
drachms. The former is added very slowly to 
the latter during constant trituration, so as 
to produce an opalescent imlky fluid. 



122 



COSMETICS. 



1139. Creme de Pistache. Pistachio 

nuts, 3 ounces; green oil, palm soap, wax, 
and spermaceti, each 1 ounce ; orange-flower 
■water, 3|- pints ; essence of neroli, 12 ounces; 
make as directed for the preceding milks. 

1140. Milk of Roses. Place over a 
■vrater-bath, oil soap, 1 ounce ; and melt it in 
5 or 6 ounces rose-water; then add white 
wax and spermaceti, 1 ounce, and continue 
the heat until they have melted, JSText take 
1 pound blanched almonds, beat them to a 
meal in a clean marble mortar, with 3-|- pints 
rose-water, admitted portionwise, during the 
trituration. {See No. 43.) The emulsion of 
almonds, thus made, is to be strained without 
pressure through washed white muslin, and 
]-un very slowly into the previously formed 
soap-mixture; the whole being blended at 
the same time by energetic trituration. To- 
wards the end of this operation, 2 drachms 
attar of rose, dissolved in 8 ounces inodorous 
alcohol, are to be let into the mixture very 
gradually, and in a thin stream, during con- 
stant rubbing of the mass. This cautious 
manipulation is indispensable to the smooth- 
ness and perfection of the milk. {See No. 
43.) The last operation is to strain; and, 
after the liquid has had a day's repose, to 
bottle it. This is a highly esteemed cosmetic 
for the skin and complexion. Milk of cucum- 
bers may be made in the same manner as 
milk of roses, by substituting juice of cucum- 
bers for rose-water. 

1141. Lotion for Freckles. Take 
bichloride of mercury, 6 grains avoirdupois ; 
pure hydrochloric acid, specific gravity 1.16, 
1 Imperial fluid drachm ; distilled water, |- 
pint ; mix, and add rectified spirit and eau de 
rose, each 2 fluid ounces ; Price's glycerine, 1 
ounce. 

1142. Lotion to Remove Preckles. 
Dissolve 3 grains borax in 5 drachms each 
rose-water, and orange-flower water; a very 
simple and harmless remedy is equal parts of 
pure glycerine and rose-water, applied every 
night, and allowed to dry. 

1143. Iodine Lotion for Eruptions 
of the Skin. Take iodide of potassium, 30 
grains avoirdupois ; iodine, 15 grains ; dis- 
tilled or soft water, 1 Imperial pint ; add only 
a couple of table-spoonfuls of the water at 
first, and when by agitation the solids are 
dissolved, add the remainder. This is the 
common and best form of ioduretted lotion or 
wash for ordinary pui-poses. It is often 
serviceable in enlarged and indurated glands, 
itch, &c. Or : take iodide of potassium, 1 to 2 
drachms, and distilled water, 1 pint ; dissolve. 

1144. Glycerinated Lotion of Iodide 
of Potassium. To the last add 1 ounce 
Price's glycerine. Both are excellent skin- 
cosmetics, employed like Rowland's lotion 
particularly for persons with a scrofulous or 
scorbutic taint, or who are troubled with 
eruptions, swellings, or indurations arising 
from it. It is also excellent as a hair- wash. 
The product of the last formula may be ad- 
vantageously used instead of hair-oil. 

1145. Lotion of BicMoride of Mer- 
cury. Take corrosive sublimate (in coarse 
powder), 10 grains avoirdupois ; distilled wa- 
ter. 1 Imperial pint; agitate them together 
nntil solution be complete. The addition of 
5 or 6 grains hydrochlorate of ammonia (pure 



sal-ammoniac) or 5 or 6 drops (not more) 
hydrochloric acid, increases the solvent action 
of the water, and renders the preparation less 
liable to suffer change, but is not otherwise 
advantageous. When absolutely pm-e dis- 
tilled water is not used, this addition of acid 
should be made to prevent decomposition. 
Some persons dissolve the sublimate in 2 or 3 
fluid drachms rectified spirit before adding 
the water, to facilitate the process ; but this 
also, though convenient, is unnecessary. 
Apart from its value as a cosmetic, the above 
lotion is an excellent application in a variety 
of obstinate eruptions, and in obstinate sores 
and glandular swellings and indurations of a 
minor character ; the first of which it seldom 
fails to relieve, provided the bowels and diet 
be carefully attended to, and sufficient exer- 
cise be taken daily. Ordinary rmld cases of 
itch rapidly disappear under its use. The 
addition of about 1 ounce pure glycerine con- 
verts it into a lotion admirably" adapted to 
allay itching and irritation generally, as well 
as into one of the best cosmetic washes known. 
For the latter pm-pose, a little pure rose water 
or orange-flower water may be added, at wiU, 
to give it fragrance ; a like quantity of distill- 
ed water, in the case of any of the above 
additions, being omitted. 

1146. Eau de Beaut6. Bichloride of 
mercury (corrosive sublimate), 8 grains; 
camphor, 10 grains ; sulphate of zinc, and 
solution of lead (liquor of acetate of lead), 
each 2 scruples; rose water 5^ ounces; and 
the yolk of a small egg. This mixture is 
regularly in use by Creole ladies for beautify- 
ing their skin. 

1147. Glycerine Lotion. Take Price's 
glycerine, 1 ounce, and distilled or pure soft 
water, 19 ounces ; mix. A good strength for 
daily use as a cosmetic wash, or as a vehicle 
for other ingredients, for which purpose it is 
greatly preferable to milk of almonds ; also 
as a lotion to allay itching and irritation of 
the skin, prevent chaps, excoriations, the 
effects of weather, climate, &c. It is like- 
wise applied to the hair instead of oil. 

1148. Gljrcerine Lotion No. 2. Take of 
Price's glycerine, 1 ounce, and distilled water, 
17 ounces ; mix. A proper strength when more 
marked effects are desired; as in chapped 
hands, lips, and nipples, obstinate excoria- 
tions, abrasions, chafings, sunburns, persistent 
roughness or hardness of the skin, &c. 

1149. Glycerine Lotion No. 3. Take 
of Price's glycerine, 3 ounces ; water, 17 
ounces; mix. This is adapted for use in 
obstinate cases, or when still more rapid 
effects are desired ; also as an application to 
burns and scalds. 

1150. Fragrant Glycerine Lotions. 
Any of the foregoing glycerine lotions maybe 
rendered fragrant and more agreeable by em- 
ploying rose water or elder-flower water, in- 
stead of water, or by the addition of a little 
eau de Cologne, lavender water, or other 
scent, at will. The addition of a few drops of 
essence of musk or of ambergris, per pint, or 
of a couple of ounces of eau de rose or eau 
de fleurs d'oranges, in lieu of an equal bulk of 
water, imparts a delicate odor which is always 
highly esteemed. In like manner they may 
be medicated or increased in efficacy, in 
various ways, for toilet and personal use. 



COSMETICS. 



123 



Thus, the addition of a little borax (2 or 3 
drachms per pint), renders them more effect- 
ive in chaps, excoriations, <fcc.; a little salt of 
tartar, or of lemon jaice, vinegar, or rectified 
spirit, increases their power of allaying itching 
and morbid irritability in skin-diseases, as 
well as converts IsTo. 1 (more particularly) in- 
to an excellent wash for freckles and like dis- 
colorations. 8 or 10 grains of bichloride of 
mercury, per pint, converts it into the ad- 
mirable lotion of that substance. (See No. 
1145.) In like manner, by the addition of a 
drachm or so of iodide of potassium, or of 
compound tincture of iodine, we have a 
healthful cosmetic wash particularly service- 
able to persons with a scrofulous taint. 
Strongly sceut it with the oils of origanum 
and rosemary, or impregnate it with a certain 
proportion of cantharides, or some other ap- 
propriate stimulant and rubefacient, and we 
have respectively the most cleanly, convenient, 
and usefal hair cosmetics. Indeed, merely to 
enumerate all the uses it may be placed to in 
the cosmetic and allied treatment of the per- 
son, would alone fill manv pages. 

1151. To Test the "Purity of Glycer- 
ine. Glycerine weighed at the temperature 
of 60^ Fahrenheit should have no less than 
29^ B. ; if it contains lime or alkalies, one 
degree should be deducted, as these substances 
make i t heavier. 

Rubbed on the hand, it should be perfectly 
inodorous. Impure glycerine, under this test, 
has a disagreeable smell. The impurity caus- 
ing this odor is mostly butyric acid, as by 
contact with the glycerine it forms a very 
volatile glycerole. Such an article will al- 
ways grow worse by age. 

The presence of chlorine, sometimes used 
for bleaching glycerine, is detected by tinging 
the sample blue with sulphate of indigo, and 
then adding a little sulphuric acid; if free 
chlorine, or chloride of calcium, be present, 
the blue color will disappear. 

If a few drops of a solution of nitrate of 
silver be added to glycerine, the presence of 
chlorine is marked by the formation of a white 
precipitate. 

Oxalate of ammonia will precipitate lime, if 
present. Lead will be detected in the same 
way by hydrosulphate of ammonia ; and sul- 
phuric acid by a soluble salt of baryta. 

Cane sugar may be traced by increased 
sweetness of taste; also by dissolving the 
glycerine in chloroform, in which it is com- 
pletely soluble if pure, sugar being insoluble 
in it. 

1152. Caution About Glycerine. The 
property which has caused most annoyance 
in the use of glycerine is its strong affinity 
for water. Although glycerine has a pleas- 
ant, sweetish taste, yet the first sensation that 
is felt when it is applied to the tongue is one 
of pain and burning. This is caused by the 
fact that the glycerine absorbs all the mois- 
ture from the surface that it touches, and thus 
dries it up and parches the nerves. Ignorant ! 
of this fact, nurses and mothers have applied 
pure glycerine to the chafed skin of infants, 
and produced great pain. The glycerine 
ought to have been first mixed with an equal 
bulk of water, or at least with so much as 
would remove its burning action on the sense 
of taste. This being done, it may be applied 



to the most tender surfaces without produc- 
ing injury, and as it does not dry up, virtually 
maintains the parts in a constantly moist con- 
dition, excluding the air and promoting the 
healing process. 

1153. Fine Glycerine Lotion. Gly- 
cerine, 3 fluid ounces ; quince- seed mucilage, 
{see next receipt), 10 fluid drachms; pulverized 
cochineal, 5 grains ; hot water, I5 fluid ounces ; 
inodorous alcohol, 21 fluid ounces; oil of rose, 
8 drops ; pulverized gum-arabic ; 5 drachm ; 
water, 8 fluid ounces. Rub the powdered 
cochineal first with the hot water gradually 
added, and then add the alcohol. Then 
triturate the oil of rose well with the pow- 
dered gum-arabic, and gradually add the wa- 
ter as in making emulsion. '{See No. 43.) 
With this mix well the solution first formed, 
and filter, and to the filtered liquid add the 
glycerine and mucilage of quince seeds, and 
shake well. The mucilage of quince seeds 
should always be freshly made. If the alco- 
hol is sweet and free from foreign odor, and 
the glycerine perfectly inodorous, a less 
quantity of oil of rose may suffice. If care is 
taken in its manufacture, this will form a 
beautiful and elegant preparation, with a rich 
rosy fragrance. "When applied to the skin it 
imparts an agreeably soft, smooth, and velvety 
feel. It is an excellent application for the 
face after shaving, or for allaying the irritation 
caused by exposure to the wind. 

1 1 54. Quince Mucilage. The mucilage 
of quince seeds may be made by boiling for 
10 minutes 1 drachm quince seeds in h pint 
water, and straining. This is sometimes used 
as a bandoline, but it soon decomposes, and, 
therefore for that purpose, only very small 
quantities should be prepared. 

1155. Gowland's Lotion. The formula 
sanctioned by the medical profession is to take 
of Jordan almonds (blanched), 1 ounce; bit- 
ter almonds, 2 to 3 drachms ; distilled water, 
2 pint ; form them into an emulsion. To the 
strained emulsion, with agitation, gradually 
add of bichloride of mercury (in coarse pow- 
der), 15 grains previously dissolved in dis- 
tilled water, 5 pint. After which further add 
enough water to make the wtole measure ex- 
actly 1 pint. Then put it in bottles. This is 
used as a cosmetic by wetting the skin with 
it, and gently wiping off" with a dry cloth. It 
is also employed as a wash for obstinate 
eruptions and minor glandular swellings and 
indurations. 

1 1 56. Lotion of Borax, for Sore Gums 
and Nipples. Take 5 drachms powdered 
borax; distilled water, 5 pint; mix. An ef- 
fective wash for sore gums, sore nipples, 
excoriations, (fcc, applied twice or thrice daily, 
or oftener. 

1157. Glycerinated Lotion of Borax 
for Chaps and Sunburns. Take 6 drachms 
avoirdui^ois powdered borax; Price's glycerine, 
f ounce ; rose-water or elder- flower water, 12 
ounces ; mix. Resembles the last, but is fra- 
grant and much more agreeable and eflfective. 
Its daily use as a cosmetic wash renders the skin 
beautifully soft and white, and prevents and 
removes chaps, sunburns, &c. 

1158. Cazenave's Lotion of Cyanide 
of Potassium. Take cyanide of potassium, 
5 grains avoirdupois ; emulsitm of bitter- 
almonds, 3 Imperial fluid ounces; dissolve. 



124. 



COSMETICS. 



Used like the last, to allay itching and irrita- 
tion, particularly after shaving; also for frec- 
kles and pustules. {See No. ^Z.) The above 
is Cazenave's formula. The next receipt is, 
however, preferable, 

1 1 59. Glycerinated liOtion of Cyanide 
of Potassium. Take cyanide of potassium, 
6 grains avoirdupois; glycerine, i ounce; 
strongest camphor- water, 2^ ounces; mix. 
{SeeXo. 1160.) 

1160. Caution Against Cyanide of 
Potassium. Cyanide of potassium is highly 
poisonous when swallowed, and as the above 
lotions are pleasant-tasted, they should not 
be left out of the dressing-case ; nor should a 
larger quantity than that above given be kept 
in use at once ; nor, under ordinary circum- 
stances^ should they be applied to a large 
surface at a time. If nof kept under lock 
and key, it is safest to label them Poison. 
Kept with care, and properly employed, they 
are safe and useful lotions. 

1161. Cherry-Laurel Lotion, or Shav- 
ing Wash. Take genuine distilled cherry- 
laurel, 2 Imperial fluid ounces; rectified spirit, 
1 fluid ounce; glycerine, k ounce; distilled 
water, 7 1 fluid ounces; mix. Used to allay 
irritation of the skin, particularly after shav- 
ing, the part being moistened with it by 
means of the tips of the fingers ; also used as 
a wash for freckles and pustules, and to re- 
move excessive moistness or greasiness of the 
hair. Milk of bitter- almonds is often substi- 
tuted for the glycerine and spirit, hut not for 
the hair. 

1162. Glycerine and Borax Lotion 
for the Complexion. Mix k ounce powdered 
borax, and 1 ounce pure glycerine, with 1 
quart camphor- water. Wet the face morning 
and evening with this lotion, allowing it to 
dry partially, and then rinse off with soft 
water. 

1163. Pomade de Ninon de I'Enclos. 
Take of oil of almonds, 4 ounces avoirdupois ; 
hog's lard, 3 ounces ; spermaceti, 1 ounce ; 
melt, add of expressed juice of house-leek, 3 
Imperial fluid ounces, and stir until the mix- 
ture solidifies by coohng. A few drops of 
esprit de rose, or of eau de Cologne, or lavan- 
de, may be added to scent it at will. Used 
as a general skin-cosmetic; also for wrinkles 
and freckles. It is said to be very softening, 
coohng, and refreshing. 

1164. Pomade de Beauts ; Pomade 
de Venus. Take of oil of almonds, 1 pound; 
spermaceti (pure), 2 ounces ; white wax 
(pure), Ig ounces; glycerine (Price's), 1 ounce; 
l3alsam of Peru, k ounce; mix by a gentle 
heat, and stir the mass until it begins to so- 
lidify. It is sold either white, or tinted of a 
delicate rose or green color. Used both as a 
hair and skin cosmetic. It forms an elegant 
substitute for ordinary cold-cream, lip-salve, 
&c., and is much recommended by the makers 
for improving the quality and promoting the 
growth of the hair. 

1165. Shaving Paste; Pate pour 
Faire la Barbe. Takeof ISTaples-soap (genu- 
ine), 4 ounces; curd-soap (air-dried and pow- 
dered), 2 ounces; honey (finest), 1 ounce; 
essence of ambergris (or essence royale), oil 
of cassia, oil of nutmeg, of each 10 drops; 
beat them to a smooth paste with water or 



eau de rose; and put it into covered pots. 
{See Nos. 602, ^'C, and 607.) 

1166. Shaving Paste. Take of white 
soft-soap {see No. 600), 4 ounces; honey-soap 
(finest, sHced), 2 ounces ; olive-oil, 1 ounce ; 
water, 1 or 2 table-spoonfuls; carbonate of 
soda, 2 drachms; melt them together, and 
form a paste, as before, adding a little proof 
spirit and scent, at will. Some persons melt 
with the soap about 1 drachm of spermaceti- 

1 167. Colored CoUodion for the Skin. 
1 ounce coUodion, 3 grains each pure annotto 
and dragon's blood ; digest, with agitation, in 
a stoppered phial, for 24 hours ; and, if neces- 
sary, decant the clear portion. 

1168. Flesh Colored CoUodion. 2 
ounces coUodion ; 1 drachm palm oil ; alkanet, 
15 grains; digest, (fee, as in the last receipt. 
This dries of a good skin color ; but it is not 
so strong as the product of the preceding 
formula. 

1169. Glycerinized Collodion may be 
obtained by substituting 2 drachms of glycer- 
ine for the palm oil in the preceding receipt. 
This is exceedingly supple, does not crack 
or scale off from the skin, and accommodates 
itself to the motions of the part. 

1170. Peruvian, or Red Lip Salve. 
Take of spermaceti ointment, k pound ; alka- 
net root, 3 or 4 drachms ; digest , at a gentle 
heat, until the first has acquired a rich deep 
red color, then pass it through a coarse strain- 
er. "When the liquid fat has cooled a little, 
stir in thoroughly 3 drachms balsam of Peru. 
In a few minutes pour off' the clear portion 
from the dregs (if any), and add 20 to 30 drops 
oil of cloves. Lastly, before it cools, pour it 
into the pots or boxes. The product forms the 
finest and most esteemed lijp salve. 2 or 3 
drops of essence of ambergris, or of essence 
royale, improve and vary it. 

1171. Rose Lip Salve. As the above, 
but using only 1| drachms balsam of Peru, 
and replacing the oil of cloves with a few 
drops of attar of roses, or sufficient to give the 
mixture a marked odor of roses. Some ma- 
kers omit the balsam altogether. If uncol- 
ored, it forms white rose lip salve. {See No. 
1135. 

1 1 72. White Lip Salve. Take i pound 
spermaceti ointment, liquify it by the heat of 
warm water, and stir in ^ drachm neroli or 
essence de petit- grain as before. 

1173. Glycerine Lip Salve. This is 
prepared by adding ^ to ^ part of glycerine to 
any one of the above whilst in the melted 
state, and stirring the mixture assiduously 
until it begins to cool. 

1174. French Lip Salve. Mix togeth- 
er 16 ounces lard, 2 ounces white wax, nitre 
and alum in fine powder, of each, -^ ounce ; 
alkanet to color. 

1175. German Lip Salve. Butter of 
cacao, ^ ounce; oil of almonds, ^ ounce; 
melt together with a gentle heat, and add 6 
drops essence of lemon. 

1176. Gants Cosm6tiques. These are 
white kid gloves, which have been turned in- 
side out, and brushed over with a melted 

j compound of wax, oil, lard, balsam, &c. 
The Peruvian lip ralve {see No. 1170) without 
the alkanet, may answer the purpose. An 
excellent method for softening the hands. 



WASHES FOB FAILING HAIB OB BALDNESS. 



125 



"\^^asli9s for FailingHair 

VV or Baldness. Liniments or 
washes to make the hair grow, can always be 
employed, with greater or less success, so long 
as there is any vitality left in the hair follicles 
or roots. If, however, these are entirely dead 
or destroyed, there is no possibility of induc- 
ing a fresh growth of hair. This will be evi- 
dent from the sbiuing or glistening appearance 
the scalp assumes when the hair roots are de- 
stroyed. The loosening of the hair, which 
frequently occurs to young persons, or those 
of the middle period of life, will generally, if ne- 
glected, become real baldness. Such a state is 
common in women, and generally terminates, 
in its mildest form, in excessive loosening of 
the hair. The case, however, is not the hope- 
less one which is generally imagined; and if 
proper treatment be pursued, the hair will 
grow afresh, and assume its pristine strength. 
A useful practice in men, and those of the op- 
posite sex whose hair is short, is to immerse 
the head in cold water morning and night, dry 
the han- thoroughly, and then brush the scalp, 
until a warm glow is produced. For women 
with long hair, this plan is objectionable ; and 
a better one is to brush the scalp until redness 
and a warm glow are produced, then dab 
among the roots of the hair one or other of 
the hair lotions. If the lotion produce smart- 
ing or tenderness, the brush may be laid aside, 
but if no sensation is occasioned, the brushing 
should be resumed, and a second application 
of the lotion made. This treatment should be 
practiced once or twice a day, or at intervals 
of a few days, according to the state of the 
scalp ; namely, if tender, less ; if insensible, 
more frequently. "When the baldness happens 
in patches, the skin should be well brushed 
with a soft tooth brush, dipped in distilled vin- 
egar morning and evening, or dipped in one of 
the washes given below. If either of these lo- 
tions should be found too irritating to the skin, 
use them in smaller quantity, or diluted, and 
less frequently. If they have the effect of 
making the hair harsh and dry, this incon- 
venience may be removed by the use of oil or 
pomatum after each application of the lotion. 
Pomatums for the growth of the hair are very 
inferior to the lotions in efficacy. The basis 
of most hair invigorators and restorers is eith- 
er the tincture or the vinegar of cantharides ; 
the method of preparing the latter ingredient 
is given in the next receipt. 

1178. To Prepare Vinegar of Can- 
tharides. This preparation is not always 
obtainable in the drug stores, and is made by 
macerating, with agitation for 8 days, 2 ounces 
powdered cantharides in 1 pint acetic acid; 
then press and strain. 

1179. Wash for Restoring Hair. 
Mix k ounce vinegar of cantharides with 1 
ounce eau de Cologne and 1 ounce rose water. 
Or, 2 ounce tincture of cantharides, 2 ounces 
eau de Cologne, ^ drachm oil of nutmeg, and 
10 drops oil of lavender. 

1180. Morfit's Hair Tonic. Scald black 
tea, 2 ounces, with 1 gallon boiling water; 
strain, and add 3 ounces glycerine; tincture 
cantharides, i ounce ; and bay rum 1 quart. 
Mix well by shaking and then perfume. 

1181. Regenerative Glycerine Hair 
"Wash. Take 1 oimce, avoirdupois, glycerine 



(Price's) ; strongest eau de Cologne, I Impe- 
rial pint; liquor of ammonia (specific gravity 
880-882), 1 fluid drachm; oil of origanum and 
oil of rosemary, each, | fluid drachm; tincture of 
cantharides, 1 fluid ounce; briskly agitate 
them together for 8 or 10 minutes, then add k 
pint strongest camphor water, and again well 
agitate. A few drops of essence of musk are 
often added. An excellent hair lotion, and 
one that supersedes the necessity of using oil 
or pomade. 

1182. Erasmus Wilson's Hair Wash. 
Take 8 Imperial fluid ounces strongest eau de 
Cologne ; tincture of cantharides, 1 fluid 
ounce ; English oil of lavender, and oil of 
rosemary, each, 5 fluid drachm; mix. It is 
improved by the addition of | fluid drachm 
oil of oi-iganum, or by its substitution for the 
oil of lavender; but the omission of the latter 
renders it less odorous. 

1183. Parisian Wash to Gradually 
Darken the Hair. Take of green sulphate 
of iron, 15 to 20 grains ; distilled verdigris, 5 
or 6 grains; good white wine, J Imperial pint; 
perfume with eau de Cologne to suit; mix. A 
favorite among the fashionable Parisians. 
The above will iron-mould linen if permitted 
to come in contact with it. 

1 1 84. Wash to Gradually Darken the 
Hair. Take of sulphate of iron (green, 
crushed), 2 drachms avoirdupois ; rectified 
spirit, I Imperial fluid ounce; oil of rosemary, 
10 or 12 drops ; pure soft water, \ pint ; agi- 
tate them together until solution and mixture 
are complete. Many persons substitute the 
strongest old ale for the water ordered above. 
{See No. 1183.) 

1185. Wash to Darken the Hair. 
Take of rust of iron, 2 drachms avoirdupois ; 
old ale (strongest), 1 Imperial pint; oil of 
rosemary, 12 to 15 drops ; put them into a 
bottle, very loosely cork it, agitate it daily for 
10 or 12 days, and then, after repose, decant 
the clear portion for use. {See No. 1183.) 

1186. Wash for Dry, Stubborn Hair. 
The best and most efiective of these consists 
of 1^ ounces avoirdupois glycerine dissolved in 
1 Imperial pint of any fragrant distilled wa- 
ter, as that of roses^ or orange or elder flow- 
ers ; 15 to 20 grains salt of tartar (carbonate 
of potassa) per pint, is sometimes added. 

1187. Wash to Cleanse the Hair and 
Scalp. 1 tea-spoonful powdered borax ; 1 ta- 
ble-spoonful spirits of hartshorn ; 1 quart soft 
water. Mix all together and apply to the 
head with a soft sponge ; then rub the head 
well with a dry towel. Use once a week. 

Another excellent method of cleansing the 
hair, is to take the yolk of an egg, and rub it 
in thoroughly a little at a time. It will pro- 
duce a slight soapy lather, which should be 
rinsed out with soft water. This leaves the 
scalp perfectly clean, and the hair soft and 
silky. 

1188. Barbers' Shampoo Mixture. 
Shampooing is a term used for cleansing the 
head and hair. Salts of tartar (carbonate of 
potassa) is the principal article used by bar- 
bers for this purpose. Dissolve 1 ounce salts 
of tartar in 1 quart soft water ; sprinkle freely 
on the head and rub well till a lather is formed ; 
wash ofi" with clean water. Bay rum can then 
be used if desired. 

1189. Shampoo Liquor. Salts of tar- 



126 



HAIE DYES. 



tar, 4 ounces ; pulverized borax, 4 ounces ; 
soft water, 1 gallon. Mix, and bottle for use. 

1190. Fine Shampoo Liquor. Tbis 
excellent wasb for the bair is made by dissolv- 
ing 2 ounce carbonate of ammonia and 1 
ounce borax in 1 quart water, and adding 
thereto 2 ounces glycerine, 3 quarts iS'ew 
England rum, and 1 quart bay rum. The hair, 
having been moistened with this liquor, is 
to be shampooed with the hands until a slight 
lather is formed ; and the latter being then 
washed out with clear water, leaves the head 
clean, and the hair moist and glossy. 

1191. Hair Curling Liquid. Take 
borax, 2 ounces; gum-arabic, 1 drachm; add 
hot water (not boiling), 1 quart; stir, and as 
soon as the ingredients are dissolved add 3 
table-spoonfuls strong spirits of camphor. On 
retiring to rest wet the hair with the above 
liquid, and roll it in twists of paper as usual. 

1192. Curling Fluid for the Hair. 
Take 1 ounce avoirdupois finest white gum- 
arabic ; good moist sugar, i ounce ; pure hot 
water, f Imperial pint; dissolve. To the 
solution, when cold, add 2 fluid ounces recti- 
fied spirit ; corrosive sublimate and powdered 
sal-ammoniac, each 6 grains ; the last two 
being dissolved in the spirit before admixture. 
Lastly, add enough water to make the whole 
measure 1 pint, with a little esprit de rose, 
eau de Cologne, or eau de lavande, to scent it. 
The hair is moistened with the fluid before 
putting it in papers or papillotes, or twisting 
it with the fingers. Shake before using. 

1193. Wild Rose Curling Fluid. 
Take 2 drachms avoirdupois dry salt of tartar 
(carbonate of potassa) ; powdered cochineal, 
■^ drachm ; liquor of ammonia and esprit de 
rose, each 1 fluid drachm; glycerine, i ounce; 
rectified spirit, l^ Imperial fluid ounces ; dis- 
tilled water, 18 ounces ; digest, with agitation, 
for a week, and then decant or filter. The 
hair is moistened with it, and then loosely 
adjusted. The efi"ect occurs as it dries. 

1194. Drying Washes for Moist, 
Lax Hair. Take of essential oil of almonds, 
1 Imperial fluid drachm ; oil of cassia, I fluid 

■ drachm ; essence of musk, k fluid drachm; rec- 
tified spirit, 2k fluid ounces ; mix, and add grad- 
ually, with brisk agitation, 16 avoirdupois 
ounces distilled water in which has been dis- 
solved 1 ounce finest gum-arabic. The hair 
and scalp are slightly moistened with the 
liquid, and the hair at once arranged without 
wiping, whilst still moist. Shake before using. 

1195. Rose Bandoline. Steep 6 ounces 
gum tragaeauth for 30 hours in 1 gallon rose- 
water, stirring frequently; strain through a 
cloth, and let it stand for a few days; then 
strain again and work into it 4 drachms oil of 
roses. {See Xo. 1154.) 

1 196. Hair Gloss. Mix 1 pint spirit of 
jasmin, and 5 drops aniline, with 4 pounds 
pure glycerine. 

1197. How to Dry a Lady's Hair. 
The lady should recline on a lounge or a sofa, 
with her long hair hanging over the end. A 
pan containing 2 or 3 bits of ignited charcoal 
is then placed under it, and a little powdered 
benzoin sprinkled upon the lighted fuel. The 
thick smoke which rises and is strongly im- 
pregnated with benzoic acid combined with 
carbonic acid, rapidly absorbs the moisture in 
the hair, which should be previously well 



wiped with towels, so as to be as free from wet 
as possible ; and in a few seconds the hair is 
perfectly dry, beautifully perfumed, and ready 
for the operation of the brush. 



Hair Dyes. The numerous pre- 
parations vended, under different 
names, as hair dyes, have generally a basis of 
lead or silver, and possess a sameness of com- 
position which scarcely occurs, to an equal 
extent, in any other class of cosmetics. A 
few, it is true, contain bismuth, crude pyro- 
gallic acid, and certain astringent vegetable 
juices, as their active ingredients ; but these 
are only occasionally met with in the stores. 

1 199. Walnut Hair Dye. The simplest 
form is the expressed juice of the bark or shell 
of green walnuts. This is the venerable hair 
dye of Paulus JEgineta. To preserve this 
juice, a little rectified spirit is commonly added 
to it, with a few bruised cloves, and the whole 
digested together, with occasional agitation, 
for a week or fortnight, when the clear por- 
tion is decanted, and, if necessary, filtered. 
Sometimes a little common salt is added with 
the same intention. It should be kept in a 
cool place. 

1200. Pyrogalhc Hair Dye. Take of 
pyrogallic acid, i ounce; dissolve it in hot 
distilled water, H ounces; and, when the 
solution has cooled, gradually add of rectified 
spirit, i fluid ounce. It may be made a little 
stronger or weaker at will. 

1201. Beautiful Black Hair Dye. 
This is composed of 2 different liquids. Take 

6 drachms avoirdupois good recent sulphuret 
of potassium; distilled water, 2 Imperial fluid 
ounces; liquor of potassa, li drachm; agitate 
them together, after repose decant the clear 
solution into a stoppered phial, and label the 
bottle either Solution No. 1, or The Mordant. 
{See No. 93.) This solution does not stain 
the skin, and is an effective and easily prepared 
mordant. In some of the mordants sold in 
the shops, the liquor of potassa is omitted. 
To prepare the dye, next take 3 drachms 
avoirdupois crystals of nitrate of silver ; dis- 
tilled water, 2 Imperial fluid ounces ; dissolve 
in a stoppered phial, and mark it either Solu- 
tion No. 2, or The Dye. This is the average 
strength of the best silver-dyes of the stores. 
The strongest, intended to dye the hair black, 
in a few cases are made with 2 drachms of 
the nitrate to 1 fluid ounce of distilled water; 
weaker ones, for brown, with only 1 drachm 
of the nitrate to the fluid ounce. This solu- 
tion stains the skin as well a.^yjfee hair. These 
solutions are usually put up W flat stoppered 
phials, and one of each, handsomely labeled, 
sold together in a case under various fanciful 
names, for which a most extravagant price is 
generally charged. They form the most con- 
venient, effective, and expeditious hair dye 
known, and the one now chiefly sold and 
used by the large perfumers and hair-dressers. 
Other nearly similar mordants are recom- 
mended by different good authorities. A good 
formula is:— Take of liquor of potassa, 3 
fluid drachms ; hvdrosulphuret of ammonia, 

7 fluid drachms ; distilled water, 1 ounce ; mix. 
The method of using these liquids is given 
in the following receipt : 



SAIR DYES. 



127 



1202. Method of Using the Hair 

Dye. The hair (perfectly clean) is first 
thoroughly wetted to the roots with Solution 
No. 1, previously diluted with 4 or 5 times its 
bulk of pure water, or of the highest strength 
that can be used without irritating the skin, 
care being taken not to make the hair too wet, 
as that would interfere with the next opera- 
tion. A small brush is commonly used for 
the purpose, and the action and absorption of 
the mordant is promoted by the free applica- 
tion of the former for a short time. After 
the lapse of 2 to 5 minutes, the hair is 
thoroughly but lightly moistened with the 
d[.j(i, or Solution No. 2, by means of a small- 
toothed comb, or what is more convenient, a 
half-worn tooth bru:^h, care being taken to 
touch the skin as little as possible. Any 
stains left on the skin by accidental contact 
with the dye, are now removed by rubbing 
them with a piece of rag or sponge, or the cor- 
ner of a napkin wetted with a little of the 
mordant previously diluted with water. After 
the lapse of a few minutes, the skin is sponged 
clean with a little warm water, and wiped 
dry, and the hair arranged with the comb, in 
the usual manner. It is better to avoid rub- 
bing or washing the hair for a few hours. 
Sometimes the two operations are reversed, 
and the dye applied first. The color thus 
produced is more permanent, but stains on 
the skin are less ea'^ily removed. The whole 
process, if expertly managed, may be com- 
pleted in from 10 to 1.5 minutes. 

1203. Hydrosulphate or Hydro- 
sulphuret of Ammonia (also called sul- 
phuret or sulphide of ammonia), used as a 
mordant in dyeing the hair with either silver 
or lead, may be prepared as follows: — Take 
of sulphur, 1 part; fresh dry hydrate of lime, 
2 parts; boil in water sufficient to dissolve the 
sulphur ; filter, and to the filtered liquid add 
for every 8 parts of sulphur used, 33 parts of 
sulphate of ammonia. After agitation and 
repose, the clear supernatant liquid must be 
decanted, and preserved in bottles. The pro- 
duct contains traces of lime, which do not, 
however, unfit it for use in the cosmetic art. 
"WTien a salt of antimony is used to dye the 
hair, the neutral hydrosulphuret of ammonia 
should be employed, as, if the liquid contain 
more sulphur than is necessary to neutralize 
the ammonia, and it be used in excess, the 
color at first produced is dissolved out and 
washed away. But if this excess be avoided, 
the bisulphuret gives the brightest color. 
The neutral hydrosulphuret is prepared by 
saturating strong liquor of ammonia with 
sulphuretted hydrogen, and then adding a 
second portion dBfliquor of ammonia equal 
to that first used. {See No. 1201.) 

1204. Red Hair Dye. An acidulated 
solution of a salt of antimony (a solution of 
potassio'tartrate of antimony or tartar-emetic 
Ito 16, acidulated with a little tartaric, citric, 
or acetic acid, may be used), followed by a 
weak mordant of neutral hydrosulphuret of 
ammonia {see No. 1203), of the bisulphuret 
(carefully avoiding excess) gives a red turning 
on the orange, which tones well on light-brown 
hair. A solution of sulphantimoniate of po- 
tassa (Schlippe's salt) with a mordant of 
water slightly acidulated with sulphuric acid, 
gives a bright orange-red or golden-red color. 



1205. Red Hair Dye. A strong infu- 
sion of safflowers, or a solution of pure rouge, 
in a weak solution of crystallized carbonate of 
soda, gives a bright red like henna, or a red^ 
dish yellow, according to its strength, if fol- 
lowed, when dry, by a mordant of lemon juico 
or vinegar diluted with one-half to an equal 
bulk of water. 

1206. Blonde or Flaxen Hair Dye. 
Mix in 10 ounces distilled water, 1 ounce ace- 
tate of iron, 1 ounce nitrate of silver, and 2 
ounces nitrate of bismuth ; moisten the hair 
with this mixture, and, after an hour, touch it 
with a mixture of equal parts of sulphide of 
potassium and distilled water. 

1207. Blonde Hair Dye. Another 
method is by moistening the hair with a mix- 
ture of 2 ounces protochloride of tin and 3 
ounces hydrated lime. An hour after, use the 
potassium solution as in last receipt. 

1208. Golden Yellow Hair Dye. A 
solution of bichloride of tin, sufficiently diluted, 
followed by a mordant of hydrosulphuret of 
ammonia '{see No. 1203), gives a rich golden 
yellow tint to very light hair, and a golden 
brown to darker hair, owing to the formation 
of bisulphuret of tin. 

1209. Rich Yellow Hair Dye. A so- 
lution of acetate or nitrate of lead, followed 
by a mordant of yellow chromate of potash, 
gives a brilliant rich golden yellow. If want- 
ed warmer or deeper toned, a few drops of so- 
lution of diacetate of lead (G-oulard's extract) 
should be added to the acetate solution. 

A solution of pure annotto obtained by boil- 
ing it in water slightly alkalized Avith carbon- 
ate of soda, or with salt of tartar, gives a 
golden yellow or flame yellow, accordiDg to 
its strength, to very pale hair, and correspond- 
ing tones to darker hair. A previous mordant 
of alum- water deepens it, and a subsequent 
washing with water soured with lemon juice 
or vinegar reddens it or turns it on the 
orange. 

1210. Brilliant Yellow Hair Dye. A 
solution of a neutral salt of iron (sulphate, 
acetate, or chloride), followed by a weak solu- 
tion of carbonate of soda, or salt of tartar, or 
lime water, gives a warm yellow or nankeen 
color, which, when deep, turns on the red. In 
the latter case it is apt to assume a sandy shade 
on very light hair. 

1211. Brown Hair Dye. A ready way 
to color the hair brown is by a solution of 
pennanganate of potassain the proportion of 1 
troy ounce to 1 quart of water. The hair 
must be first cleansed by a dilute solution of 
ammonia, when it is dried by means of a tow- 
el, and the solution of the pennanganate ap- 
plied to the hair, but not to the skin, as this 
would also be colored. It dyes the hair im- 
mediately, and the desired shade may be ob- 
tained by applying more or less of the solu- 
tion. Should the hands become stained with 
it, ttiey can be cleaned with a little dilute hy- 
drochloric acid. This dye is not permanent, 
but is very ea'^ilv renewed with a tooth-brush. 

1212. ^ Golden Brown Hair Dye. 
Brown hair may have a golden tone imparted 
to it by the judicious application of any of 
the yellow dyes already noticed. Light hair 
may be previously dyed of a warm light 
l)rown before applying the latter. A so- 
lution of sulphate of copper (blue vitriol) 



128 



DEPILATORIES. 



followed by a solution of ferrocyanide of po- 
tassium, gives an extremely rich golden brown 
or bronze brown to light hair, when the pro- 
cess is expertly managed. 

1213. Cautions about Applying Hair 
T)yes. The application of the above dyes, 
so as to produce appropriate and agreeable 
shades, requires more consideration and expe- 
rience than that of the black dyes. The com- 
plexion, and the natural color of the hair of 
the person operated on, with other attendant 
circumstances, must be carefully considered 
beforehand, and allowed for. Unless all these 
points be attended to, the party may, on look- 
ing in the mirror, suddenly find himself 
strangely altered in appearance, and probably 
for the worse. Hair dyes of all kinds will 
only act effectively and satisfactorily on per- 
fectly clean hair. The presence or the slight- 
est contamination of oily or greasy matter 
will arrest or gi*eatly lessen their action, and 
render it unequal in different parts. Hence 
the hair, in all cases, should be first thor- 
oughly washed with warm soap and water, 
then rinsed with tepid water, and lastly, 
wiped dry previous to their application. A 
few grains of soda or of salt of tartar (carbon- 
ate of potassa) added to the first water, will 
facilitate its detergent action 

1214. To Bleach Hair. It has been 
found in the ease of bleaching hair that gaseous 
chlorine is the most effectual. The hair should 
be cleaned for this purpose by a warm solution 
of soda, and washed afterwards with water. 
"WTiile moist it is put into a jar and chlorine 
gas introduced, until the air in the jar looks 
greenish. Allow it to stand for 24 hours, and 
if necessary repeat the operation. The em- 
ployment of binoxide of hydrogen has been 
often recommended for this purpose, it being 
in every way superior to the other agents, but 
it has the drawback of being difficult to pre- 
pare. 

1215. Lotions to Change the Color of 
the Hair. A nunil^er of lotions are exten- 
sively advertised, and sold under the name of 
*' Hair Eestorers," " Hair Rejuvenators," 
''Life for the Hair," &q., which purport to re- 
store the color and improve the growth of the 
hair. The active agent in all these prepara- 
tions is lead, combined with sulphur, and this, 
by frequent application, darkens the hair. In 
the majority of cases, probably, a moderate 
use of such a lotion would be unattended 
with mischief; but it is worth remembering 
that palsy has been known to be produced by 
the long continued use of cosmetics contain- 
ing lead. The following receipts show how 
these restorers are made : 

1216. Hair Coloring which is not a 
Dye. Take 1 drachm lac sulphur ; sugar of 
lead, 2 scruples ; glycerine, 2 ounces ; distilled 
water, 6 ounces ; mix, and perfume to fancy. 
Or, iac sulphur and sugar of lead, each 1 
drachm; sulphate of iron (copperas), 10 
grains; glycerine, 2 ounces; water, 6 ounces; 
mix and perfume. Shake well before using, 
and apply with a sponge every other day until 
a change of color is obtained, after which one 
application each week will be sufficient. The 
hair must be cleansed of all greasy matter be- 
fore using the above. {See Ko. 1213.) 

1217. Magic Hair Color er and Restor- 
er. Take of sugar of lead, ^ ounce ; lac sul- 



phur, 3 drachms; aqua ammonia, li ounces; 
glycerine, 6 ounces ; water sufficient to fiU a 
pint bottle; mix, and perfume to suit the 
fancy. Or, take of lac sulphur and sugar of 
lead, each 1 drachm ; tinctures of capsicum, 
and cantharides, each i ounce; glycerine, 2 
ounces; water, 5 ounces. Apply as above. 
Do not employ any greasy oils in perfuming 
these preparations. (See No. 1213.) 

1218. Hair Restorative. Take 1 drachm 
milk of sulphur, 1 drachm acetate of lead, 2 
drachms muriate of soda, 2 fluid ounces gly- 
cerine, 8 fluid ounces bay rum, 4 fluid ounces 
Jamaica rum, and 1 pint water. Mix togeth- 
er, and shake before using. 



Depilatories. Preparations for 
removing supei-fluous hair from the 
skin. The constituents of most of these are 
lime, and the tersulphuret of arsenic (orpi- 
ment), but the use of oi-piment is dangerous, 
especially in case of any abrasion of the skin. 
The safest depilatory is a strong solution of 
sulphuret of barium made into a paste with 
powdered starch. It should be applied im- 
mediately after it is mixed, and allowed to re- 
main there for 5 or 10 minutes. (See Nos. 
1223 to 1225.) 

1220. Martin's Depilatory. Apply a 
light coating of sulphuretted sulphide of cal- 
cium to the part from which the hair is to be 
removed ; after 10 minutes it may be washed 
off, and the skin will be clean. 

1221. Boudet's Depilatory. Mix 3 
parts hydro-sulphuret of sodium (crystallized), 
10 parts finely powdered quicklime, and 11 
parts starch. It should not be applied longer 
than 2 to 4 minutes. Yery effective and 
safe. 

1222. Chinese Depilatory. Mix 8 
ounces quicklime, 1 ounce dry pearlash, and 
1 ounce sulphuret of potassium ; apply as in 
the last receipt. 

1223. To Apply a Depilatory as a 
Paste. In use, the chemical depilatories 
(see Nos. 1219 to 1222) which are in the state 
of powder, are made into a paste with warm 
water, and immediately applied to the part, 
previously shaved close, a little starch being 
generally added to those which do not con- 
tain it, in order to render the paste more 
manageable. Sometimes soap-lye is used, in- 
stead of water, to form the paste. A wooden 
or bone knife should be used in preparing this 
paste. 

1224. To Apply a Depilatory as a 
Plaster. Another mode of application is to 
make the paste rather thick, spread it on a 
piece of strong paper, and apply it like a 
plaster. In from 5 to 10 or 15 minutes, or 
sooner if much smarting occurs, the paste 
should be washed off with warm water, and a 
little cold cream or any simple ointment ap- 
plied to the part. The liquid depilatories are 
usually thickened with a little starch powder, 
before application. (See Nos. 1219 to 1222.) 

1225. Cautions About Applying 
Depilatories. Both classes (see Nos. 1223 
and 1224) require caution in their use. They 
should be applied to only a small surface at a 
time, and great care shoild be taken to pre- 



SCENTED OILS; FEB FUMED OILS. 



129 



vent them extending \o the adjacent parts. 
They lose their properties unless kept entirely 
excluded from the air; and no liquid must be 
added to the dry ones until just before their 
application, and then no more should be 
mixed than is required for immediate use. 



Scented Oils; Perfumed 
Oils. The fixed oil that usually 
forms the basis of the simple scented oils of 
the perfumer, is that of almonds, ben, or 
olives; but other bland vegetable oils are 
occasionally used, particularly for inferior 
qualities. In France, three different modes 
are adopted for imparting fragrance to these 
oils. 

1227. Perfumed Oils by the Addi- 
tion of Essential Oils, or Alcoholic Es- 
sences. By the simple addition of a sufficient 
quantity of the essential oil of the plant, or of 
the concentrated alcoholic essence of the 
substance, if it does not furnish an oil, fol- 
lowed by agitation; the whole being then 
allowed to repose for a fe-w days, and, if any 
sediment falls (which should not be the case 
if the ingredients are pure), the clear portion 
decanted or poured off into another bottle. 
In the case of alcoholic essences, it is better 
that the fixed oil should be gently warmed 
by placing the bottle or vessel (a well -tinned 
bottle or can with a suitable mouth and neck 
for corking, is the best and most convenient 
for the purpose,) for a short time in a water- 
bath, before adding them, and then, after 
tightly and firmly securing with a cork, to 
agitate it until cold or nearly so. In general, 
1 to 1^ drachms of a pm-e essential oil, or 3 to 
4 fluid drachms of a concentrated essence, is 
sufficient to render 1 pint of fixed oil agi-eea- 
bly fragrant; bub in some cases, and for the 
best quality, an additional \ drachm, or more, 
of the one, and 1 to 2 fluid drachms of the 
other, wiU be required, k drachm pure attar 
of roses, owing to the very powerful character 
of its odor, is sufficient for the purpose. Oils 
of ambergris, bergamot, cassia, cinnamon, 
cloves, lavender, lemons, millefleurs, musk, 
neroli, nutmeg, orange-flowers, roses, and 
all other similar scented oils, may be thus 
made. The above are chiefly employed as 
hair cosmetics, with, in most cases, trifling 
additions of other essential oils or essences, 
to modify and improve their odor. Some of 
them are also colored. {Cooley.) 

1228. Perfumed Oils by Infusion. 
"Dry substances, after being reduced to coarse 
powder (but free from dust), or sliced very 
small ; nowers or petals, after being carefully 
selected, picked from the stems and other 
scentless portions, and pulled to pieces ; and 
soft, unctuous, and resinous matters, as 
ambergris, musk, civet, resins, and balsams, 
after beinjr rubbed to a paste with a little of 
the oil (either with or without the addition of 
about twice or thrice their weight of clean 
siliceous sand or powdered glass, to facilitate 
the reduction), are digested in the fixed oil, 
for an hour or two, in a covered vessel, at 
a gentle heat obtained by means of a water- 
bath, frequent stirring or agitation being em- 
ployed all the time. The vessel is then 
removed from the bath, and set aside (for 



flowers) until the next day, or (for other sub- 
stances) for 5 to 7 days, to settle, when the 
clear portion is carefully decanted into a clean 
bottle, or bottles. With ambergris, civet, 
musk, and vanilla, the digestion, with fre- 
quent agitation, is usually continued for at 
least 3 weeks ; and exposm-e of the vessel in 
the sun, or in some equally warm situation, is 
generally substituted for the heat of a water- 
bath. When flowers are employed, the fi-ee 
oil is allowed to drain ofl", and the remainder 
is obtained by the action of a press. The two 
portions being mixed, fresh flowers are added 
to the oil, and the whole process is repeated ; 
and this again, with fresh flowers, 5 or 6 
times, or oftener, until the oil is sufficiently 
fragrant." {Cooley.) For the extraction of 
perfume from rose leaves, from scented woods, 
from bark, from gums, there appears to be 
nothing better than glyceiine, and this use of 
it is constantly on the increase, as the most 
delicate odors are perfectly preserved in it, 

1229. Perfumed Oils by Enfleurage. 
A series of shallow iron frames, adapted for 
piling on each other, and fitting close together, 
being provided, a piece of white, spongy cot- 
ton-cloth is stretched upon each, and is then 
freely moistened with oil of almonds, olives, 
or ben. On the cloth is next laid a thin layer 
of the fresh-plucked flowers, and each frame, 
as thus covered, is placed on the preceding 
one, until a compact pile of them is raised. 
In 24 to 30 hours the flowers are replaced by 
fresh ones ; and this is repeated every day, or 
every other day, until 7 or 8 different lots of 
flowers have been consumed, or the oil has 
become sufficiently charged with their odor. 
The cotton-cloths are then carefully collected 
and submitted to powerful pressure, and the 
expressed oil which flows from them is placed 
aside in corked bottles or jars, to settle. After 
some time it becomes perfectly clear, and is 
then ready to be decanted into other bottles 
for store or sale. Sometimes trays with per- 
forated bottoms, on which are laid thin layers 
of cotton-wool slightly moistened with the 
oil, are substituted for the frames and cotton- 
cloth above referred to. Sometimes, also, 
sheep's wool or cotton wool impregnated with 
oil, is stratified with flowers in a large earthen 
vessel, and this, after being closely covered 
up, is kept for 10 or 12 hours gently heated 
by means of a water-bath. The next day the 
old flowers are replaced by fresh ones, and 
the whole process repeated again and again, as 
often as necessary. The oil is finally obtained 
by pressure from the wool, as before. "When 
only a moderate degree of aroma is required 
in the oil, the flowers may be crushed in a 
mortar or a mill, with one-half their weight 
of blanched sweet almonds, and the next day, 
or the second day after, according to the 
weather, the mass, after being slightly warmed, 
may be submitted to the press. After about 
a week's repose, the upper portion, which is 
the perfumed oil, may be decanted, and, if 
necessary, filtered. This plan is occasionally 
adopted in this country for "Oil of Eoses," 
and a few other flowers, intended for the 
hair, ( Cooley. ) 

1230. To Perfume Hair Oils. The 
mixtures of essential oils, and other odorous 
substances, used in the preparation of th( 
perfumed spirits, will furnish examples whicji 



130 



SCENTED OILS; PERFUMED OILS. 



may be followed in scenting hair oils and po- 
mades, and from these can be framed other 
combinations as the fancv may suggest. {See 
JVbs. 1243 and 1261.) 

1231. Colorless Hair Oils. In prepar- 
ing colorless or white hair oils, blanched 
fixed oil, and new and colorless, or nearly 
colorless, essential oils and essences only are 
employed. 

1232. Colored Hair Oils. The colored 
oils derive their hues from the fixed oil of 
which they are prepared being tinged before 
the scent is added. In each case the colored 
oil should be allowed to clarify itself by re- 
pose in a closed vessel and a warm situation 
(60 to 70° Fahr.) before being decanted for 
further treatment. It is also better to pass it 
through a piece of coarse muslin, to remove 
floating particles ; and, in some cases, it may 
be necessary to filter it, to render it quite 
brilliant — a quality which it should always 
possess. 

1233. To Color Hair Oil Red or 
Crimson. A red and crimson tinge may be 
given by steeping, for 2 or 3 days, a little 
alkanet-root (say 2 or 3 drachms) in each pint 
of the oil. By warming the oil, the time re- 
quired for obtaining the desired tinge may be 
reduced to 1 or 2 hours. 

1234. To Color Hair OU YeUow or 
Orange. A yellow and orange tinge may be 
given by rubbing up a little annotto with a 
portion of the oil whilst hot, and then adding 
it to the rest at a gentle heat ; or, more simply, 
by adding a little bright palm oil to it whilst 
warm. 

1235. To Color Hair Oils Green. A 
green tinge may be given by steeping a little 
green parsley, or spinach-leaves, or lavender, 
in the oil for a few days, in the cold; or by 
dissolving 2 or 3 drachms of gum-guaiacum in 
each pint of it, by the aid of heat. 

1236. Oil of Musk ; or Huile Mus- 
qu6e. Take 2 avoirdupois drachms grain- 
musk ; ambergris, 1 drachm; oil (almond, 
olive, or ben), 1 Imperial pint; proceed by 
infusion. {See No. 1228.) Some makers add 
about 20 or 30 drops oil of lavender (English), 
10 drops oil of cloves, and 5 or 6 drops oil of 
cassia, with the musk. A second quality is 
made by working over the same ingredients 
with f pint of fresh oil. 

1237. Oil of Ambergris and Musk; 
or Huile Royale. Take 4 drachms amber- 
gris ; grain-musk, 1 drachm ; oil of lavender 
(English), 20 drops ; oil of cassia, oil of cloves, 
oil of nutmeg, and neroli, each 10 drops; and 
proceed by infusion. {See No. 1228.) Yery 
fine. The ingredients may be worked over a 
second time, as with oil of musk. 

1238. on of Storax. Take 10 to 12 
drachms pure liquid storax ; oil of nutmeg, 
12 to 15 drops ; ambergris, 5 or 6 grains ; oil 
(almond, oKve, or ben), 1 Imperial pint; by 
infusion. {See No. 1228.) Highly fragrant. 
Used in the same wav as oil of balsam of Peru. 

1239. Oil of Vanilla; or HuHe a la 
Vanille. Take 2k ounces avoirdupois finest 
vanilla in powder; oil of bergamot, 1 Imperial 
fluid drachm ; attar of roses, 15 drops ; amber- 
giis, 3 grains; oil (almond or olive), 1| pints; 
by infusion. {See No. 122Q.) Yery fragrant. 
For the simple oil, the bergamot, attar, and 
ambergris, are omitted. 



1 240. Oil of Ambergris ; Huile d' Am- 
bergris, or Huile a 1' Ambre. Take of finest 
ambergris, 4 to 6 drachms avoirdupois ; and 
oil (almond, olive, or ben), 1 Imperial pint; 
and proceed by infusion. (/See JVo. 1228.) A 
second quality is made by working the resid- 
uum with i pint of fresh oil. 

1241. Oil of Balsam of Peru. Take k 
avoirdupois ounce pure balsam of Peru, and 
hot oil of almonds, i Imperial pint; agitate 
them together until perfectly mixed, and for 
a vshort time afterwards; then set the bottle 
aside, and in a few days decant the clear por- 
tion. Oil of nutmeg, 20 or 30 drops, is com- 
monly added to increase its action. Used to 
scent other oils and fats; also, by itself, to 
improve and restore the hair, for which it is 
in high repute among many persons. 

1242. Oil of Benzoin. Take finest gum 
benzoin, 1 ounce avoirdupois, and oil of al- 
monds, 1 Imperial pint ; and proceed by infu- 
sion. {See No. 1228.) Used to convey the 
scent of benzoin to other oils; and also to 
prevent rancidity. 

1243. Mixed Essential Oils, or Mixed 
Scents. The following are used as extem- 
poraneous scent for smelling bottles, hair oil, 
pomades, esprits, &c.; for which purpose one 
or other of them is commonly kept at hand 
by the druggists. 1 ounce of any one of 
them, added to a pint of rectified spirit, pro- 
duces an agreeable esprit or perfume for per- 
sonal use. Oil of bergamot and lemon, of 
each 1 ounce; oil of lavender (English) and 
pimento, of each k ounce ; mix. Or : To the 
last add of oil of orange peel, 2 drachms ; oil of 
cloves, 1 drachm ; mix. Or : Take oil of ber- 
gamot, lemon and orange peel, of each 3 
drachms ; essence de petit-grain, 2 drachms ; 
oil of cloves, Ik drachms; oil of cassia, 1 
drachm ; mix. 

1244. French Huiles or Hair Oils. 
The huile antique au jasmin, aux fleurs d' or- 
anges, h la rose, k la tuberose, k la violette, 
&G., &c., of the French perfumers, are simply 
one or other of the bland fixed oils, (almonds, 
olives, or ben), strongly scented with the oils 
(huiles) of the respective fiowers, or some 
other preparation of them. {See Nos. 1236 to 
1242.) 

1245. Marrow Oil. Take clarified beef- 
marrow, 1^ ounces avoirdupois; oil of almonds, 
4 Imperial pint; melt them together, and 
scent the mixture at will. Held in high re- 
pute as a hair oil, by many. That of the 
small stores has seldom any marrow in it, but 
lard instead. The appropriate scents are the 
same as for bear's grease. It is generally 
tinged slightly yeUow by means of a little 
palm-oil or annotto. 

1246. Tonquin Pomade or Oil. Mac- 
erate for from 12 to 24 hours, i pound tonquin 
beans in 4 pounds melted fat or warm oil, and 
strain through fine muslin; when cold the 
grease will be found to have acquired a fine 
odor of the beans. 

1247. VaniUa Pomade or Oil. This 
is prepared in the same way as for tonquin 
beans, by substituting i pound of vaniUa 
beans. 

1248. Macassar Oil. Oil of ben, 1 
gallon, oil of noisette, k gallon ; strong alco- 
hol, 1 quart ; attar of rose, 2 drachms ; attar 
of bergamot; 3 ounces : attar of Portugal, 3 



POMATUMS OR POMADES. 



131 



ouuces ; and tincture of musk, 3 ounces ; mix 
together, digest with alkanet root (for color), 
in a stoppered bottle for a week, then strain 
and bottle. 

1249. Cheap Hair Oils. These are 
made of fixed oils (usually almond or olive 
oil), gradually receding in quality, scented 
with less attar, the deficiency being made up 
ty a mixture of oil of rhodium, rosemary, and 
bergamot. A few drops of neroli, or oil of 
rose geranium, or a little huile au jasmin, 
with or without 2 or 3 drops oil of musk or 
huile royale, are occasionally added to im- 
prove and slightly modify the odor. 

1250. Tricopherous. Castor oil, | pint; 
95 percent, alcohol, 5 pint; tincture cauthar- 
ides, i ounce ; oil of bergamot, 2 drachms. 
Color a pale pink with alkanet root. {See No. 
1233.) 

1251. Oil for Incipient Baldness. 
The commonest, and perhaps the most con- 
venient and easily prepared cosmetic of the 
kind, is a mixture of equal parts of tincture 
of cantharides and olive oil or almond oil, 
simply agitated together, and shaken before 
use. A more efi'ective and cleanly liquid pre- 
paration may be made by substituting proof 
spirit (or good rum) for the oil, and adding 1 
to I2 drachms of glycerine (Price's) to each 
ounce of the mixture, a coiTesponding increase 
being made in the proportion of the tincture, 
to compensate for this addition. This prepa- 
ration imparts as much moisture and gloss to 
the hair as the former one, and is much more 
genial in its action on the scalp. Distilled 
water, or rosemary water, is often substituted 
for proof spirit. A still more active prepara- 
tion is made of tincture of cantharides and 
glycerine only. 



Pomatums or Pomades. 
Any scented greasy matter of appropri- 
ate consistence, or any mixture of fats, used, 
or intended to be used, in dressing the hair, 
now commonly passes under the name of po- 
matum or pomade. The usual basis of ordi- 
nary pomatum or pomade for use in this cli- 
mate, IS either a mixture of 2 parts of hog's 
lard and 1 part of beef suet; or of 5 partsof 
lard and 2 parts of mutton suet ; the fats be- 
ing both previously carefully rendered or pre- 
pared, and then melted together by a gentle 
heat. The latter mixture is chiefly used for 
white pomatum or pomade. Essential oil, and 
other volatile matter used to scent this fat, 
should be added to it and stirred up with it, 
after it has somewhat cooled, but before it be- 
gins to solidify, in order to prevent loss. The 
unseen ted mixed fats fonn the plain pomade or 
pomatum of tho perfumers. (Coolei/.) 

1253. To Purify Suet or Lard for 
Makiag Pomades. Suet or lard form the 
body of p:)inades ; and that their quality may 
be unexceptionable, the rendered suet must be 
subjected to a purifying process, in order to fit 
it for use in perfumerv. This is done by melt- 
mg the rendered fat by the heat of a safine 
or steam bath in an enameled iron vessel, 
and adding to it, graduallv, 1 ounce powdered 
alum and 2 ounces chloride of sodium (pure 
table salt) to every fifty pounds of fat under 
treatment. The heat is to be continued above 



212° Fahr., until scum ceases to rise to the 
surface, which contains all the organic and 
other impurities, and nmst be skimmed ofi" as 
fast as it is formed. The fat is then strained 
through bolting cloth into clean stone jars, and 
left to cool. It is next to be spread upon a 
circular stone slab, the top surface of which is 
slanting from the centre, (that is, slightly coni- 
cal in form), and provided with a stone roller 
which is made to revolve by suitable gearing. 
As the roller, or muUer, revolves over the fat, 
cold water is allowed to trickle upon it, and 
this dissolves the saline impurities remaining in 
the fat. After this the fat is heated until all 
water is expelled by evaporation. "When cold, 
the fat will be found to be very white and 
pure, and in a condition to preserve its sweet- 
ness, and suitable for use with the most deli- 
cate odors. 

1254. Method of Purifying Fat. 
Take 1 cwt. of perfectly fresh grease, either of 
lard or beef suet ; cut the grease into smaU 
pieces, and pound it well in a mortar ; when 
it is well crushed, wash it with water repeat- 
edly, until, in fact, the water is as clear after 
withdrawing the grease as before it was put 
in. The grease has now to be melted over a 
slow fire, adding thereto about 3 ounces crys- 
tallized alum in powder, and a handful of 
common salt ; now let the grease boil, but al- 
low it to bubble for a few seconds only ; then 
strain the grease through, fine linen into a 
deep pan, and allow it to stand, to clear itself 
from all impurities, for about 2 hours. The 
clear grease is then again to be put into the 
pan, over a bright fire, adding thereto about 3 
or 4 quarts rose water, and about 5 ounces pow- 
dered gum benzoin ; it is allowed to boil gent- 
ly, and all scum that rises is to be removed, 
until it ceases to be produced; finally the 
grease is put into deep pans, and when cold 
taken carefully off the sedimentary water ; it 
is then fit for use, and may be kept for an in- 
definite period, without change or turning 
rancid. It will be observed that the principal 
feature in this process is the use of benzoin. 

1255. To Perfume Melted Fat. In 
adding aromatics or perfumes to the melted 
fat, its temperature must be adapted to their 
relative degree of volatility. Essential oils 
and alcoholic essences, particularly the more 
delicate ones, are added at the lowest possible 
temperature compatible with their perfect 
union with the fat ; whilst substajices like the 
aromatic resins and balsams are better added 
to the fat more fully liquefied, aiding then- 
solution and union by stirring the mass with 
a wooden, bone, or porcelain knife or spatula. 
TVith the latter, after the union is complete, 
it is often necessary to allow the mixture to 
repose for a short time, and to pour it off 
from the dregs before adding the essential 
oils and essences, and concluding the work. 
(See No. 1261.) 

1256. To Finish off Pomades. In fin- 
ishing off pomades two methods are adopted, 
according to the appearance it is desired th$y 
should have. Those which it is intended 
should be opaque and white, should be stirred 
or beaten assiduously with a knife or spatula 
until the fat begins to concrete, or has acquir- 
ed considerable consistence, before potting it •, 
but when it is desired that they should be trans- 
parent or crystalline, the clear liquid mass is 



132 



POMATUMS OB POMADES. 



poured into the pots or bottles, previously 
bKghtly wanned, and the whole is allowed to 
cool very slowly, without being disturbed, in a 
situation free from draughts of cold air. For 
the ordinary pomades a mixture of lard and 
suet is generally employed; for the harder ones, 
suet chiefly or wholly ; or a little pure white 
wax or beeswax (according to the intended 
color of the product) is melted with the fat to 
increase its solidity. For white pomades, 
mutton suet is employed ; for others, in gen- 
eral, beef suet. In those which are artificial- 
ly colored, either may be used ; but beef suet 
is preferable when either clearness or a crystal- 
line appearance is desired. {Cooley.) 

1257. Coloring Matters for Fat. It 
is often desirable, as a matter of taste, to tinge 
the prepared fat used for perfumery. The 
process given below is applicable to all fats, 
whether solid or fluid. Color may also be 
imparted by the addition of pigments in pow- 
der, but these are objectionable for pomade, 
hair oil, and creams. The coloring matter 
should be dissolved or steeped in the melting 
fat before scenting it. {See No. 1232.) 

1258. To Color Fat Pink. Bruise 4 
ounces alkanet root for every pound of fat 
used; melt the fat over a water-bath, add the 
bruised alkanet, and digest for several hours. 
Strain the mixture through bolting cloth, and 
aUow the clear fluid fat to cool. This fat, 
now colored deep pink, is used as a coloring 
mixtm-e ; 1 ounce of it will be sufficient to 
color 1 pound of white fat, by simply melting 
them together. 

1259. To Color Fat YeUow. A yel- 
low coloring fat may be prepared as in the 
last receipt, by using, instead of the alkanet, 

1 ounce of annotto to the pound of fat. 

1260. To Color Fat Green. The same 
process followed in iSTo. 1258, with fresh wal- 
nut leaves, will give a green coloring fat. 

1261. Essences for Scenting- Poma- 
tums. Millefleur — oil of lemon, 3 ounces ; 
essence of ambergris, 4 ounces ; oil of cloves, 

2 ounces, oil of lavender, 2 ounces. Cowslip — 
essence of bergamot, 16 ounces; essence of 
lemon, 8 ounces ; oil of cloves, 4 ounces ; oil 
of orange-peel, 2 ounces ; oil of jasmin, 2 
drachms ; eau de bouquet, 2 ounces ; oil of 
bitter abnonds, 16 drops. For general use — 
essence of bergamot, 16 ounces; essence of 
lemon, 8 ounces ; true oil of origanum and oil 
of cloves, each 2 ounces; oil of orange-peel, 
Ik ounces. {See Nos. 1243 and 1255.) 

1262. Pomades by Infusion. These 
are prepared by digesting the odorous sub- 
stances in the simple pomade {see No. 1265), 
at a very gentle heat, for 2 or 3, to 8 or 10 
hom's, according to their nature, in the way 
already noticed under '^ Oils" {see No. 1228) ; 
observing to stir the mixture frequently, and 
to keep the vessel covered as much as possible 
during the whole time. 1 part of flowers, 
carefully picked and pulled to pieces, to 3 or 
4 parts of pomade, are the usual proportions. 
The next day the mixture is again greatly 
heated, and, after being stirred for a short 
time, is thrown into a strong canvas bag, 
which is then securely tied, and at once sub- 
mitted to the action of a powerful press. 
(This should have been previously made 
moderately warm. This is efi"ected either by 
■pieans of a steam-jacket, or by filling it with 



hot water. In the latter case, care should be 
taken to perfectly free it from water before 
use. ) The whole operation is then repeated, 
several times, with fresh flowers, or other 
bulky odorous substance, until the pomade be 
sufficiently fragrant. This will require 3 to 
6 times its weight in flowers. Lastly, in the 
case of flowers, the pomade is liquefied in a 
covered vessel, at a gentle heat, as before; 
and after sufficient repose to allow it to 
deposit adhering moisture, is poured off" for 
stock, or is at once potted. To obtain es- 
sences the fat is treated with spirit, which 
combines with the essential oil, leaving the 
fat with still a strong odor of the flower. 
This latter forms the French pomade. The 
delicate perfume of some flowers is impaired 
by heat, and the process of absorption {en- 
fleurage) is adopted. {See No. 1263.) The 
mode of proceeding with the aromatic barks, 
seeds, resins, balsams, &c., the duration o^ 
the infusion, and the proportions taken, are, 
for the most part, similar to those of the cor- 
responding huiles or oils ; but here the first 
two substances, and others of a like nature, 
are only bruised, ground, or sliced very small, 
and not reduced to actual powder before 
digestion, as pomades, unlike oils, cannot be 
freed from fine powder or dust by filtration 
through fine media, or by repose in the cold. 
In this way are prepared the pomades of 
balsam of Peru, benzoin, cassia, cinnamon, 
lavender (green), orange-blossoms, orris-root 
(violet), roses (colored), storax, vanilla, and 
several others, kept by the French perfumers, 
and known and spoken of in this country by 
their French names, as "Pomade aux Fleurs 
d'Oranges," "^la Eose," "k la Yanille," &c. 
{Cooley.) Piesse proposes a simple method 
by which any person can perfume pomade in 
small quantities ; and, if desired, prepare per- 
fumed extracts of favorite flowers. Procure 
an ordinary, perfectly clean, double glue-pot, 
the inner vessel capable of holding a pound of 
fat. "When the flowers are in bloom, put a 
pound of fine lard into the inner vessel of the 
glue-pot; pour sufficient boiling water into 
the outer pot, and place the whole on a stove 
until the lard is melted ; strain it through a 
close hair-sieve into a vessel containing cold 
spring water. In order to obtain a perfectly 
inodorous grease, this process may be repeated 
3 or 4 times, using each time fresh water, con- 
taining a pinch each of salt and alum. Lastly 
melt the purified fat and let it cool, to free it 
from water. Ii^ext put the fat in a vessel in a 
place just warm enough to keep it constantly 
liquid ; throw into it as many of the flowers 
as it will receive ; every 24 hours for a week, 
strain the fat from the flowers, and add fresh 
ones. This repetition of fresh flowers will 
produce a highly perfumed pomade. In this 
manner either one kind of flowers, or a mix- 
ture of 2 or more kinds may be employed. 
The perfumed extract may be obtained from 
the pomade by introducing the cold perfumed 
fat, finely chopped, into a wide-necked bottle, 
and covering it with the strongest spirits of 
wine that can be obtained ; and, after closing 
the bottle, let it stand for a week, when the 
spirit may be strained off", and will be a per- 
fumed extract of the flowers employed. The 
following flowers are best adapted for this 
process : Rose, jasmin, orange, violet, jon- 



POMA TUMS OR POMADES. 



13'^ 



quil, tuberose, and cassia. Piesse proposes 
heliotrope, but probably without sufficient 
grounds, 

1263. Pomades by Enfleurage. These 
perfumed pomades are prepared by a simi- 
lar process to that adopted I'or the correspond- 
ing oils. {See No. 1229.) On the large scale, 
a layer of simple pomade is spread, with a 
bone palette-knife, on panes of glass, to about 
the thickness of a finger, and the surface is 
closely stuck all over with the newly-gathered 
flowers. The panes are then placed in shal- 
low frames of wood, and these are closely 
piled one upon another, in stacks, in a moder- 
ately cool situation. In some of the great 
perfumeries of France, many thousands of 
these frames are employed at once. On the 
small scale, porcelain or pewter plates are 
generally used instead of panes of glass, and 
are inverted over each other, in pairs, so as to 
fit close at the edges. In each case the 
flowers are renewed daily, and the fat stirred 
up and re-spread occasionally, for 1, 2, or 
even 3 months, or until the pomade has be- 
come sufficiently fragrant to render it of the 
quality intended by the manufacturer. It is 
now scraped ofi" the panes or plates, into the 
store-pots, and is ready for use or sale. In 
this way are prepared the finest qualities of 
cowslip, honeysuckle, jasmin, jonquil, may- 
blossom, myrtle-blossom, narcissus, orange- 
flower, tuberose, and violet pomade ; as well 
as the pomades of several other delicate 
flowers that readily impart their odor to fat 
by simple proximity or contact. The imported 
pomades of this class, like those of the last 
one, are always distinguished among the per- 
fumers, by their French names; as '•' Pomade 
au Jasmin," "Pomade aux Fleurs d'Oranges,'' 
" Pomade h. la Yiolette," &c. The stronger 
pomades of these last two classes are chiefly 
employed in the preparation of extraits and 
essences, and are added to other pomades, to 
impart the fragrance of the respective flowers. 
The others are also used as hair cosmetics. 
( Cooley. ) 

1264. Mixed Pomades; Compound 
Pom.ades. These are prepared either by the 
admixture of the difi"erent fragrant pomades 
already noticed, or by the addition of judicious 
combinations of the more esteemed essential 
oils, essences, and other odorous substances, 
to simple pomade, whilst in the liquid or 
semi-liquid state. The latter is the method 
almost exclusively adopted by our perfumers. 
The usual fatty basis of the preceding po- 
mades is one or other of the following : 

1265. Plain Pomatum or Pomade. 
Take 2 parts carefully rendered hog's lard, and 
1 part beef-suet {see No. 1253, <fc.), and melt 
them together by a very gentle heat. The 
product is of the proper consistence for tem- 
perate climates. Or: Lard, 5 parts, and 
mutton-suet, 2 parts. {See No. 1253.) Or: 
Lard and suet equal parts, 

1266. Common Pomatum. Take of 

f>lain pomade (or fat), 1 pound, melt it at the 
owest degree of heat that will efl'ect the ob- 
ject, add of oil of bergamot and lemon, of 
each 1 drachm ; stir the mixture until it be- 
gins to concrete, and then pour it into the 
pots or bottles. This forms the ordinary 
pomatum. 

1267. Rose Pomade. Melt together 



and mix in a water-bath 1 pound prepared 
grease and 2 ounces spermaceti ; triturate in 
a mortar until it becomes white and smooth, 
then add and incorporate thoroughly 3 ounces 
oil of sweet almonds, i- drachm oil of roses, 
and i drachm oil of geranium, A rose-color 
is obtained by heating the oil of almonds and 
adding to it 5 drachm of alkanet, and strain- 
ing it before incorporation. 

1268. Pomade Millefleur. This much 
esteemed pomade is strongly scented with^ 
several perfumes of the kind noticed below, 
so proportioned to each other that none pre- 
dominate. The foUowiag are common exam- 
ples; but the scents, within certain limits, 
may be varied at will : — Take of plain pomade, 
I2 pounds avoirdupois; oil of lemon, 1^ Impe- 
rial fluid drachms ; oil of lavender (English), 
balsam of Peru, and essence royale, of each. 
1 fluid drachm; oil of cassia, oil of cloves, 
and essence de petit-grain, of each 5 fluid 
drachm. Or, plain pomade, 1 pound, and es- 
sence or extrait de millefleurs, 4 to 5 fluid 
drachms. 

1269. Peruvian Pomade. Take i 
ounce each good washed lard, and clarified 
beef suit; balsam of Peru, 4 ounce; mix as 
before, add 5 fluid drachm oil of nutmeg, and 
pour it into pots or dumpy, wide-mouthed 
phials. Dr. Copland adds a little oil of laven- 
der. In high repute as a hair-restorer. 

1270. Philocome. This compound is 
made without heat. Equal parts of purified 
beef-marrow, oils of noisettes and sweet al- 
monds are thoroughly mixed in a marble 
mortar, and the whole is then perfumed by 
the addition of a sufficient quantity of a mix- 
ture of extracts of rose, acacia, jasmin, or- 
ange-flower and tuberose. 

1271. Vanilla Pomatum. Take of 
plain pomade 1 pound avoirdupois ; melt and 
add 4 or 5 Imperial fluid drachms finest es- 
sence of vanilla ; attar of roses, 8 or 10 drops, 
as before. Yery fine. The plain pomade may 
be previously slightly tinged with annotto. 

1 272. East India Pomatum ; Pomade 
des Indes; or Pomade d'Orient. Take 
beef-suet, f pound avoirdupois; lard, 5 pound; 
pure bright beeswax, 2 ounces ; finest annotto, 
1 drachm; gum-benzoin in coarse powder, f 
ounce ; and grain-musk, 6 to 8 grains ; digest 
in a covered vessel set in a water-bath, with 
frequent agitation, for 2 or 3 hours. After re- 
pose, decant the clear portion, add of oil of 
lemon, 1 Imperial fluid drachm ; oil of laven- 
der (Enghsh), i fluid drachm; oils of cassia, 
cloves and verbena, each 10 or 12 drops ; and 
stir the mass until it has somewhat cooled. 
Lastly, pour it into pots or bottles, and let it 
cool very slowly, and undisturbed. Yery fra- 
grant. 

1273. Transparent Pomade. Take of 
best transparent soap, U drachms; 95 per 
cent, alcohol, 24 ounces. Dissolve the soap 
in the alcohol by heat, and add it suddenly to 
a quart of hot castor oil ; have perfume ready 
to put in at once, and pour in warm bottles. 
Another very superior article is prepared in 
the following way : Fatty oil of almonds, 2i 
pounds ; spermaceti, 5 pound ; oil of lemon, 3 
ounces. The spermaceti is melted in a water- 
bath, the oils are then added, and the heat 
kept up until a uniform mass is obtained, in 
which no floating particles of spermaceti can 



134 



POMATUMS CR POMADES. 



be distinguished. The pomade is then poured 
into glasses ; if it is desired to obtain this po- 
made crystallized, the glasses must be heated 
beforehand, and cooled down very sloTvly. 

1274. Crystallized Pomade or Poma- 
tum. Take of oil of almonds or olives, 1 
pint; J pound spermaceti (best, pure); melt 
them together by a gentle heat, add scent at 
Trill, and whilst sufficiently warm to be clear, 
pour it into warm glass bottles, and allow it 
to cool very slowly, and without disturbance. 
Some persons add 1 drachm camphor. It is 
usually preferred uncolored. If tinged at all, 
it must be only very faintly so, and with sub- 
stances that will not cause opacity. 

1275. Pomade Divine. Take of refined 
beef-maiTow, 1 pound avoirdupois ; cypress- 
TVood (rasped), onis root (in coarse powder), 
liquid styi'ax, of each 1 ounce; cinnamon 
(powdered, but not dusty), k ounce; cloves 
(well bmised), nutmegs "'(grated), of each I 
ounce ; digest, by the heat of a water-bath, in 
a covered vessel, for 5 or 6 hours, and then 
strain through flannel. Yery fine, and much 
esteemed for the hah*, and also as an occasional 
skin-cosmetic. 

1276. Castor Oil Pomade; Palma- 
Christi Pom.atum. Take of castor oil, 1 
pound avoirdupois; pure white wax, 4 ounces; 
melt them together, and then add of oil of 
bergamot, 2| drachms ; oil of lavender (Eng- 
lish), 5 drachm; essence royale, 10 or 12 drops; 
stir the mi.?;ture whilst cooling. 

1277. Bear's Grease. The fat of the 
bear has long been highly esteemed for pro- 
moting the growth of human hair, but with- 
out sufficient reason, since experience shows 
that it possesses no superiority over the fats 
ordinarily employed by the perfumers. In- 
deed, if we may regard the somewhat rank 
smell of genuine bear's grease as an indication 
of its quality, it must be inferior to them as 
a hair cosmetic; besides which, it is much 
more costly. The greater portion of the so- 
called bear's grease now sold is a factitious 
article, and is prepared by the following for- 
mula: — 

1278. Imitation Bear's Grease. Take 
of washed hog's lard (dry), 1:^ pounds avoirdu- 
pois ; melt it by the heat of a water-bath, add 
of balsam of Peru, 2 drachms; flowers of 
benzoin and palm oil (bright), of each 1 
drachm ; stir vigorously for a few minutes, to 
promote solution. Then remove the pan from 
the bath, and, after repose for a short time, 
pour ofl" the clear portion from the sediment, 
and stir the liquid mass until it begins to 
cool. 

1279. Pomade for Incipient Baldness. 
Melt over a water-bath, 12 ounces pure veal 
grease, 5 ounces nerval balsam, 5 ounces nut- 
meg butter, and 6^ ounces oil of almonds; 
triturate in a mortar until thoroughly mixed ; 
then add 10 drops croton oil, and incorporate. 
Xext dissolve 3| ounces subcarbonate of soda 
in 1 ounce each of alcohol and distilled water; 
incorporate this with the pomade and perfume 
to taste. 

1280. Cazenave's Pomade. Prepared 
beef-marrow, 4 ounces (avoirdupois) ; tincture 
of cantharides, \ fluid ounce (Imperial) ; and 
cinnamon coarsely powdered, 5 ounce; melt 
them together by the heat of a water-bath ; 
stir until the spint in the tincture has evapo- 



rated, decant the clear portion, and again stir 
rmtil the mass concretes. It is cheaper and 
more convenient to omit the powdered cin- 
namon, and to strongly scent it with oil of 
cinnamon (or of cassia), after the removal v)f 
the vessel from the bath. Some scent it with 
the oils of origanum and bergamot; and 
others employ the oils of nutmeg and laven- 
der for the purpose. Eecommended in weak 
hair and remediable baldness. It is ordered 
to be used night and morning; the head being 
washed with soap and watei*, and afterwards 
with salt and water, and wiped dry, each time 
before applying it, or at least once a day. 

1281. Tar Pomade. Dr. Dauvergne ex- 
tolled in unmeasured terms the virtue of 
vegetable tar in failing hair and baldness. 
His formula is as follows : — 6J troy ounces 
lard; 5 drachms is'orwegian tar ; 3^*^ drachms 
each butter of nutmegs and gum -benzoin ; 5 
drachms fiovarenti balm; 5 di-achms baume 
de commander; 1 ounce essence of patchouli; 
and 3 grains musk ; mix. This formula ap- 
pears unnecessarily and absurdly complicated. 
Ve have no hesitation in stating that the 
substitution of 3 to 5 drachms English oil of 
lavender, and 2 drachms essence of musk or 
essence royale, for the last four articles, would 
disguise the smeU of the tar quite as well,, 
without impairing the efficacy of the prepara- 
tion. 

1282. Dupuytren's Pomade. Take 12 
avoirdupois ounces prepared beef-maiTow; 
melt by a gentle heat, add baume nerval, 4 
ounces; 3 ounces each balsam of Peru and 
oil of almonds; and mix thoroughly. Then 
add alcoholic extract of cantharides, 36 grains, 
dissolved in 3 Imperial fluid drachms recti- 
fied spirit; stir the mass until it concretes. 
This is the original formula for this celebrated 
pomade; but, in serious cases, Dupuytren 
was in the habit of doubling, or even tripling 
the proportion of the extract of cantharides 
without altering that of the other ingredients. 
The product is a genial stimulant and rubefa- 
cient, and, not undeservedly, has long been 
held in high esteem as a hair-cosmetic, acting 
by medicating the scalp. 

1283. Soubeiran's Pomade. Take of 
oil of almonds, -J ounce ; disulphate of quinine, 
1 drachm ; triturate them together in a warm 
Wedgwood ware mortar until thoroughly- 
united ; then add of prepared beef-marrow, 
1| ounces; and continue the trituration until 
the mass is cold. Scent may be added. 
Recommended for strengthening and restoring 
the hair. 

1284. Pomade Contre I'Alop^cie, 
to Cure Baldness. Fresh lemon juice, 1 
drachm; extract of bark (by cold water), 2 
drachms ; marrow, 2 ounces ; tincture of can- 
tharides, 1 drachm ; oil of lemon, 20 drops ; 
oil of bergamot, 10 drops ; mix. First wash 
the head with soap and water, with a little 
eau de Cologne, then rub it dry. Kext morn- 
ing rub in a small lump of pomade, and re- 
peat it daily. In 4 or 5 weeks the cure of 
baldness is effected. 

1285. New French Remedy for 
Baldness. Croton oil, one of the last French 
remedies for baldness, is employed by simply 
adding it to oil or pomade, and stirring or 
agitating the two together until admixture 
or solution be complete. The formula adopt- 



TOOTS POWDERS. 



135 



ed by the eminent Frencli physician who in- 
troduced this remedy, and who speaks, in the 
most confident and enthusiastic way, of the 
success attending its use, is — take of croton 
oil, 12 drops (minims) ; oil of almonds, 4 
Troy drachms; mix. A little is to be well 
rubbed on the scalp twice a day. Soft down, 
we are assured, appears in three weeks. Mr. 
Cooleysays: "I have tried a number of ex- 

Eeriments with croton oil, thus used, in partial 
)ss of hair and baldness, and am compelled 
to bear testimony to its efficacy in several ap- 
parently hopeless cases, in which even cau- 
tharidine had failed. Soft hair, resembling 
down, did begin to appear ir from 3 to 4 
weeks, and continued to grow and increase in 
strength for some time. It was, however, 
only in about one-third of these cases that this 
down subsequently increased in stifihess and 
quantity so as to well cover the part, and to 
deserve the name of hair, in the popular sense 
of the word." {See No. 1286.) 

1286. Caution about Strong Hair 
Cosmetics. Although the stronger hair cos- 
metics are, as a rule, perfectly safe when ap- 
plied according to the directions given, and 
the chief inconvenience that may arise, even 
from their too free or injudicious use, will be 
only temporary irritation, perhaps accom- 
panied or followed by slight desquamation of 
the cuticle, or by a few unimportant pustules 
which will pass off in two or three days, yet 
there are cases in which their application 
would be unwise, and liable to produce more 
serious consequences. Thus, persons of a 
nervous temperament, with a highly irritable 
skin, and bad habit of body, persons liable to 
attacks of erysipelas, or to swollen glands 
behind the ears, or to swellings or tumors in 
the upper part of the neck behind, or to erup- 
tive or other attacks of the scalp, and the 
like, should not have recourse to them. In 
other cases, and, indeed, in all cases, it is wise 
to use them very sparingly, or in a diluted 
state at first, and thus, as it were, feel our 
way, and be able to judge from experience 
the strength that can be employed, without 
inconvenience, to produce the desired effect. 
{See Nos. 1177, #c., 1279, 4^c., and 1285.) 

1287. Hungarian Pomade for the 
Moustache. Melt by a gentle heat k pound 
gum-arabic, and 5 pound of oil soap, in 1 pint 
rose water, then add 1 pound white wax, con- 
stantly stirring; when of a unifonn consist- 
ency, add 1 ounce attar of bergamot, and ^ 
drachm attar of thyme, for perfume. If re- 
quired to be brown, color it with tube-burnt 
umber ; or for black, use tube ivory-black. 



Tooth. Powders ; Denti- 
frices ; Poudres pour 

leS Dents ; &;C. These preparations 
should be compounded of materials which, 
while cleaning the teeth without injury to the 
enamel, wiU also be anti-acid, anti-scorbutic, 
and tonic in their action upon the gums. 
Cooley says : '' Great care should be taken to 
finely pulverize all the dry ingredients, and to 
reduce the harder and gritty ones to the state 
of impalpable powder, either by patient levi- 
gation or trituration, or by elutriation. {See 



Nos. 25, 31, and 14.) To ensure the perfect 
mixture of the ingredients, they should b»/ 
stirred together until they form an apparently 
homogeneous powder, which should then bo 
passed or rubbed through a fine gauze- sieve. 
Those which contain volatile or perishable 
substances, or which, like charcoal, are afiected 
by contact with the air, should be put up in 
dumpy, wide-mouthed bottles, and kept close- 
ly corked." ''Tooth powders are nearly all 
compound powders. The only simple powder 
in common use as a dentifrice is powdered 
charcoal. Powdered bicarbonate of soda, 
cream of tartar, &c., are also employed, 
though less frequently." The following list 
includes some of the best tooth-powders in 
common use, as well as several advertised 
nostrums and named powders of the stores. 
By omitting the honey and spirit, the formulne 
given for tooth pastes furnish others for tooth 
powders ; and vice versa. Thus, the example 
given under each will increase the number of 
the other ; and both wiU suggest to the reader 
other formulae. 

1289. Poudre Detersive Dentifrice. 
Willow charcoal and white sugar in impalpa- 
ble powder, each 8 ounces ; calasaya bark in 
impalpable powder, 4 ounces ; mix thoroughly 
in a mortar, sift through the finest bolting 
cloth, and perfume with a mixture of attar of 
mint, 2 drachms ; attar of cinnamon, 1 ounce j 
and tinctm-e of amber, ^ ounce. 

1290. Camphorated Chalk. Precipi- 
tated carbonate of lime (chalk), 1 pound ; 
powdered orris root, 3^ pounds; powdered 
camphor, ^ pound; reduce the camphor to 
fine powder by triturating it in a mortar with 
a little alcohol; then add the other ingredients, 
and when the mixture is complete, sift through 
the finest bolting cloth. {See No. 28.) 

1291. Precipitated Chalk. This is 
prepared by adding a solution of carbonate of 
soda to a solution of chloride of calcium (both 
cold), as long as a precipitate forms. This 
last is well washed with pure water, and 
dried out of the dust, as the last. The refuse 
sulphate of lime of the soda-water makers, 
which is poisonous in quantity, is often sold 
for it by the druggists. Pure chalk is wholly 
soluble in vinegar, and in dilute acetic, hydi'o- 
chloric, and nitric acid, with elfervescence. 
Sulphate of lime is insoluble in these fluids. 

1292. To make Prepared Chalk. 
Rub 1 pound chalk with sufficient water, 
added gradually, to make it a smooth cream ; 
then stir this into a large quantity of water, 
after the coarser particles have settled decant 
the milky fluid into another vessel, and allow 
the chalk to settle ; decant the clear water, 
and dry the sediment. 

1293. To Purify Hartshorn. Burn 
pieces of harts' horns until perfectly white ; 
then grind them, and purify in the same 
manner as chalk. {See No. 1292.) 

1294. Lardner's Tooth Powder. Take 
of powdered charcoal (recent), 1 ounce; pre-, 
pared chall?: {see No. 1292), 3 ounces; mix, 
and keep it from the air. A simple, but good 
tooth powder, known also as Lardner's Pre- 
pared Charcoal. 

1295. Miahle's Rational Dentifrice. 
Take of sugar of mUk, 3 ounces ; tannin (tan- 
nic acid ), 3 drachms ; red lake, 1 drachm ; 
oO. of mint and oil of aniseed^ of each 7 or 3 



136 



TOOTH PASTES. 



drops ; neroli, 4 or 5 drops ; mix. Yery 
serviceable in foul, lax, or bleeding gums, 
loose or rotten teeth, &c As a tootb powder 
it is improved by the addition of 1 ounce each 
of burnt hartshorn and cuttle-fish bone. 

1296o Deschamp's Dentifrice for Re- 
moving the Yellow Color from Teeth. 
Take of dry hypochlorite of lime, § drachm ; 
red coral, 2 drachms ; triturate well and mix 
thoroughly. This powder is employed in the 
following manner: a new brush is slightly 
moistened, then dipped in the powder and ap- 
plied to the teeth. According to Deschamp, 
a few days' use of this powder will produce a 
marked alteration in the appearance of the 
the teeth, which will acquire a white color. 

1297. An Excellent Dentifrice. Pre- 
cipitated chalk {see No. 1291), 1 pound; pow- 
dered borax, i pound; powdered myn-h, 4 
ounces ; powdered orris, 4 ounces. Mix, and 
sift through finest bolting cloth. {See No. 28.) 

1298. Morfit's Dentifrice. Powdered 
willow charcoal, 4 ounces; chinchona bark 
and sngar of milk, in powders, each 1 pound ; 
old transparent soap, in powder, 4 ounces; 
mix in a marble mortar, sift through the finest 
bolting cloth {see No. 28), and perfume with 
attar of orange-flower, 1 onnce. 

1299. Grosvenor's Tooth Powder. 
Take of red coral, 6 ounces ; prepared oyster- 
shells, 5 onnces ; orris root, 1 ounce ; oil of 
rhodium, 4 or 5 drops ; mix. This is the origi- 
nal formula. Equal parts of prepared shells, 
rose-pink, and cuttle-fish bone, are now gen- 
erally substituted for the coral. It is also sold 
as coral dentifrice and coral tooth poioder. 
They are all favorites in the fashionable 
world. 

1300. Violet Tooth Powder. Take of 
precipitated chalk, 6 ounces ; cuttle-fish bone, 
3 ounces; rose-pink (bright), 24 ounces; onis 
root, 1^ oimces ; essence of violets (orris), h 
fluid drachm ; indigo (pure, to strike a violet 
tint), a sufficient quantity ; mix. A favorite 
dentifrice among ladies. 

1301. Areca Nut Tooth Powder. 
Take of areca nut charcoal, 5 ounces ; cuttle- 
fish bone, 2 ounces ; areca nuts (raw), 1 ounce; 
mix. About k drachm each of cloves and 
cassia are usually added, but it is better with- 
out any such addition. Areca nut charcoal, 
in fine powder, is often sold under this name. 
This powder cannot be excelled. {See No. 
1302.) 

1302. Areca Nut Charcoal is prepared 
and kept by only a few houses ; four-fifths of 
that sold by the druggists is spurious. The 
genuine powder is heavier and harder than 
common charcoal, and has a peculiar ap- 
pearance and feel, when pressed with the fin- 
gers, which is readilv distinguishable. 

1303. Pearl Dentifrice; Pearl Tooth 
Powder. Take of white marble-dust, 4 
ounces; cuttle-fish bone, 1 ounce; smalts 
(finest), 1 drachm ; essence de petit-grain, 10 
to 12 drops; mix. A favorite with ladies who 
have white, healthy teeth. Precipitated chalk 
or heavy carbonate of magnesia is commonly 
substituted for the marble-dust, but the qual- 
ity of the product sufl"ers in all but color. 

1304. Pelletier's Q,uinine Dentifrice. 
Take of red coral, 3 ounces ; myrrh, 1 drachm; 
disulphate of quinine, 15 grains ; scent at 
will ; mix. Recommended as a tonic for the 



teeth and gums. Prepared oyster-sheU ia 
commonly substituted for the coral, and a little 
red bole added to color it. 



Toothpastes; Tooth Elec- 
tuaries ; Pates pour les 

Dents. These may consist of any of the 
substances ordinarily used as dentifrices, re- 
duced to the state of inpalpable powder, and 
beaten up with sufficient honey (liquefied by 
a gentle heat), synip, or capillaire, to give 
them the form of a smooth and moderately 
stiff paste or electuary, a sufficient quantity 
of aromatic s being usually added, as it were, 
to ^' embalm and perfume the mouth." Honey 
of roses is often, and conserve of roses some- 
times, used for those in which their odor and 
color are suitable. A little rectified spirit is a 
useful addition, as tending to preserve them, 
and promote their action. A little eau de Co- 
logne or lavender water is often employed, 
with the same intention. They are usually 
put up in porcelain or ornamental glazed earth- 
enware pots, furnished with closely fitting 
covers, to preserve their contents from the 
air. The mixed powders should be passed 
through a very fine gauze-sieve, before adding 
the honey, and the paste should not be potted 
until the day following that on which it is 
made. {See No. 1288.) 

1306. "Ward's Tooth Paste. Take of 
prepared chalk {see No. 1292), 2 ounces : 
myrrh, rhatany root, and cuttle-fish bone, 
each, i ounce ; orris root, ^ ounce ; honey, 3 
ounces. A very useful dentifrice in foul, 
spongy, and scorbutic gums, loose and rotten 
teeth, &c. This is also known as Zeiter's An- 
ti-scorhutic Dentifrice. 

1307. Areca Nut Charcoal Tooth 
Paste. Areca nut charcoal (recent, in fine 
powder), beaten up with pure honey or capil- 
lane. Aromatics, though commonly added, 
do not improve its efficacv. {See No. 1302.) 

1308. Areca Nut Tooth Paste. Take 
of recently burnt areca-nut charcoal, in fine 
powder {see No. 1302), 5 parts; raw or un- 
burnt areca nuts, Ipart; hone}^, liquefied by a 
gentle heat, and allowed to cool, sufficient to 
make them into a stiff paste, adding gradual- 
ly, for each ounce of the mixture, about 1 
fluid drachm rectified spirit, holding in solu- 
tion oil of cassia and oil of cloves, of each 
10 or 12 drops. The next day beat up the 
mass again, adding, if necessary, a few drops 
of proof spirit, or of eau de rose or orange- 
flower water, to give it a proper consistence, 
and at once put it into pots. A very excellent 
preparation. 

1309. Vanilla Tooth Paste. Take of 
the finest vanilla, 1 drachm ; cloves, 5 drachm; 
lump sugar and cuttle-fish bone, of each h 
ounce ; white marble-dust, 1 ounce ; mix, trit- 
urate them to an inpalpable powder, and then 
beat them to a paste with about 2 ounces 
syrup of saffron. The product is much es- 
teemed for rapidly whitening the teeth and 
deodorizing the breath. 5 or 6 drops of es- 
sence of ambergris or musk, dissolved in 1 
fluid drachm of rectified spirit, are often add- 
ed, and improve it. 



TOOTH AND MOUTH WASHES. 



137 



1310. Peruvian Bark Tooth. Paste. 

This paste is made by adding 1^ or 2 drachms 
of Peruvian bark, in very fine powder, to the 
last receipt. It is a useful tonic in sponginess, 
foulness, and scurry of the gums. {See No. 
1318.) 

1311. Soap Tooth. Paste. Take of Cas- 
tile soap (air-dried, in fine powder), and cuttle- 
fish bone, of each 2 ounces; honey, 4 or 5 
ounces ; aromatics or perfume at will, with ox 
without the addition of a little rectified spirit. 
A very excellent preparation, superior to all the 
other pastes for cleaning the teeth and remov- 
ing tartar and animalcuLne from them, but in- 
ferior in blanching and preservative qualities 
to areca nut charcoal paste. A pink or rose 
color may be given it by adding 1 drachm of 
finely powdered cochineal, or a fluid drachm 
or two of the tincture. It is commonly or- 
dered in books to be made with honey of roses, 
but the alkali of the soap spoils the color of 
this article. The above preparation is also 
known under the names of Spanish Dentifrice, 
and Castilian Tooth Cream. 

1312. Violet Tooth. Paste. Take of 
prepared chalk, 3 ounces ; cuttle-fish bone and 
white sugar (powdered), of each, 2 ounces; 
orris root (powdered), 1 ounce ; smalts, 2 to 3 
drachms ; mix with sufficient syrup of violets 
to make a paste. A fashionable tooth-paste, 
highly esteemed for its power of cleaning the 
teeth, and its delicate color and odor. 

1313. Odontine. There are several 
dentifrices advertised under this name, two 
or three of which have acquired a very 
large sale in the fashionable world. That of 
an eminent perfumery house appears to have 
the following composition : — Cuttle-fish bone, 
Castile soap and red coral, equal parts ; color 
with tincture of cochineal and mix with honey 
sufficient to make a paste, and essential oils to 
aromatize, a sufficient quantity of each. 

1314. Pellitier's Odontine is said to 
consist of pulverized sepia-bone (cuttle-fish 
bone), with a little butter of cacao, beaten 
up with honey and aromatized or scented with 
essential oils. 

1315. Magic Tooth Paste. Take of 
white marble-dust, 2 ounces ; pumice-stone in 
impalpable powder, li ounces ; rose-pink, | 
ounce ; attar of roses, 7 or 8 drops ; mix as 
before with sufficient honey to make a paste. 
A favorite nostrum for rapidly cleaning and 
whitening the teeth, but one not adapted for 
free or frequent use. 

1316. Charcoal Tooth Paste. Take of 
chlorate of potassa in very fine powder, 1 
drachm; finely powdered charcoal, 2 ounces; 
honey (best raw, cold), li ounces; sufficient 
mint water to flavor ; form a paste as before. 
A rather unchemical mixture, esteemed, par- 
ticularly by smokers, for deodorising the teeth 
and breath. 

1317. To Prepare Charcoal as a Den- 
tifrice. To prepare charcoal of the highest 
quality, as a dentifrice, requires considerable 
skill and care. The substance, whether wood 
or nut, should not be in larger than one inch 
pieces; the carbonization should be efi"ected 
in covered crucibles, at a low red heat — in no 
case exceeding a dull cherry red, — and the 
whole should Idc cooled out of contact with the 
air. On opening the crucible, only those pieces 
should be selected for use which are properly 



burnt, and have a uniform dark color and a 
dull surface. If the heat employed be much 
higher than that named, the charcoal acquu-es 
a brilliant surface, and is greatly deteriorated 
in quality. The pieces selected should be 
kept in close vessels for further use or opera- 
tion; any exposure to the air weakens its 
power of absorption. 

1318. Peruvian Tooth. Paste. Thi s is 
formed by adding about li to 2 drachms of 
Peruvian bark, in very fine powder, to every 
ounce of the dry ingredients of any simple 
tooth paste, before beating them up with 
honey or syrup. A useful tonic for tender, 
spongy, foul, or scorbutic gums, and said to 
fix loose teeth. A little powdered myrrh is 
sometimes added. 

1319. quinine Tooth Paste. Take red 
coral, 3 ounces ; cuttle-fish bone, 1 ounce ; 
disulphate of quinine, ^ drachm ; mix, tritu- 
rate to very fine powder, add honey (white), 
4 ounces ; and a few drops attar of roses, or 
neroli, dissolved in rectified spirit, 3 fluid 
drachms ; and beat the whole to a paste. A 
little powdered myrrh (1 to 3 di-achms) is 
sometimes added. A very fashionable and 
popular article. Use, &c., the same as Peru- 
vian paste, 

1320. Opiate Tooth Paste. Honey, 
powdered orris, and precipitated chalk {see No. 
1291), each k pound ; rose pink, 2 drachms. 
Rub into paste with simple syrup, and per- 
fume with oils of cloves, nutmeg, and rose, 
each 5 ounce. 

1321. Patey's Orris Tooth. Paste. 
Take 1 pound Paris white, k pound rose pink, 
3 ounces orris root ; alum, i ounce ; oil cloves 
and nutmegs, each 1 drachm, "D'se honey 
enough to form a paste. 

1322. Dr. King's Tooth Paste. Pre- 
pared chalk {see No. 1292), 1 part ; powdered 
Peruvian bark, 1 part ; powdered old "Windsor 
soap, 1 part. Mix with equal parts of the 
tinctures of rhatany and myrrh ; oil of eheck- 
erberry to flavor. This paste is a fine pre- 
paration for soft, spongy gums and loose teetk. 



Tooth, and Moutli Wash- 
es. These are used to rinse the mouth, 
and particularly the teeth and gums, a few 
drops, more or less, of them being added to 
about a wine-glassful of water for the pm-pose. 
In some cases their action is promoted by the 
use of the tooth-brush. 

1324. Eau Botot. Tincture of cedar 
wood, 1 pint ; tincture of myn*h and rhatany, 
each 4 ounces ; oil of peppermint and rose, 
each 10 drops. Mix. 

1325. Violet Mouth Wash. Tincture 
of orris, essence of rose, and alcohol, each 3 
pint ; oil of almonds, 5 drops. Mix. 

1326. Mexican Toeth "Wash. Take of 
pulverized orris root, 1 ounce ; tonqua beans, 
1 ounce ; Peruvian bark, 5 ounce ; oak bark, i 
ounce ; alcohol, 1 pint ; water, 1 pint ; let the 
above stand for 12 days, and filter ; color with 
alkanet root. An elegant tooth wash. 

1327. Balm of Thousand Flowers. 
Take of white Castile soap, 2 ounces ; honey, 
4 ounces ; water, 12 ounces ; alcohol, 4 ounces; 
melt the Castile soap and honey in the alcohol 



138 



FUMIGATING PASTILS. 



and water with, a gentle heat. Flavor with 
oil of rose and wintergreen. Used as a denti- 
frice. 

1328. "Wash to Harden the G-ums. 

Take 5 pint of Jamaica spirits, I tea-spoonful 
each powdered alnm and saltpetre pulverized, 
and 1 ounce (^f pulverized myrrh. Mix. 

1329. Cologne Tooth Wash. Eau de 
Cologne, 1 quart ; tincture of myrrh, 4 ounces. 
Mix. 

1330. Sozodont. Take of salts of tartar 
(carbonate of potassa), k ounce ; honey, 4 
ounces; alcohol, 2 ounces; water, 10 ounces 
oil wintergreen and oil rose, sufficient to 
flavor. An elesjant dentifrice. 

1331. Cleveland's Tooth Wash. Tinc- 
tures of mjrrh, Peruvian bark, and gentian 
root, each 1 fluid ounce ; aqua ammonia, 1 
drachm; pure water, 5 pint; tincture of 
wdntergreen, or any flavor to suit ; mix. This 
is a fine wash for the mouth, gums, and teeth. 

1332. Myrrh Tooth Wash; Kirk- 
land's Tooth Lotion. Take of tincture of 
myrrh, 1 ounce ; water, 2 ounces ; mucilage, 
i ounce ; agitate them well together, and again 
each time before use. As a wash in rotten 
and loose teeth, foul, spongy, and ulcerated 
gums, fetid breath, &c., it is often very 
serviceable where there is a scorbutic taint. 

1333. Myrrh and Borax Mouth 
Wash. Rub well together in a mortar, 1 
ounce each of borax and honey ; then gradu- 
ally add 1 quart spirit of wine (not above 
proof), and add 1 ounce each of gum myrrh 
and red saunders wood. Macerate for 14 
days, and filter. This is an excellent wash 
for the gums and mouth. 

1334. To Cleanse the Spaces Be- 
tween the Teeth. Some dentists recom- 
mend sdk floss for cleaning the spaces between 
teeth, but we know from experience, that 
IS'o. 8 gum rings are superior. They are much 
more convenient in every respect. 

1335. Wash to Beautify the Teeth. 
Dissolve 2 ounces borax in 3 pounds boiling 
water, and before it is cold add 1 tea-spoonful 
spirits of camphor, and bottle for use. A 
table-spoonful of this mixture, mixed with an 
equal quantity of tepid water, and applied 
daily with a soft brush, preserves and beauti- 
fies the teeth, extirpates all tartarous adhe- 
sion, arrests decay, induces a healthy action 
in the gums, and makes the teeth pearly 
white. 

1336. Cachou Aromatise. These 
popular pastilles for perfuming the breath are 
thus made : Dissolve 85 ounces extract of 
liquorice in 4 ounces water, by the heat of a 
water bath, and add pulverized gum-arabic, ^ 
ounce; and Bengal catechu in powder, 1 
ounce. Evaporate to the consistence of an 
extract, and then mix in thoroughly, pow- 
dered mastic, charcoal, cascarilla, and orris 
root, each 5 drachm. TVhen the mass has 
been reduced to the proper consistence, it is 
to be removed from the fire, treated with attar 
of peppermint, 30 drops ; tinctures of amber- 
gris and musk, 5 drops ; and then poured out 
upon an oiled slab, and roUed to a very thin 
sheet. After cooling, blotting paper is pressed 
upon it to absorb any adhering oil, and the 
surfaces are moistened with water, and 
covered with silver leaf When dry it is to 
be divided into small bits of the size of a lentil. 



TT'uinigatiiig Pastils; In- 

J- cense Pastilles. These are 
small masses essentially composed of pow- 
dered charcoal and aromatic substances that 
emit fragrant fumes during combustion, with 
the addition of sufficient nitre or saltpetre to 
cause them to slowly consume away, without 
flame, when kindled. Their common form is 
that of a small con(> with a triangular ot 
tripod base, of about | to 1 inch in" height, 
and about 5 inch diameter at the larger part. 
This form is most simply and conveniently 
given thou by pressing the mass, whilst soft, 
into a mould of lead or porcelain. The dry 
ingredients should be first reduced to fine 
powder, and the balsams and essential oils 
(if any) being added, the whole should be 
thoroughly and perfectly incoi-porated, after 
which the mixture should be beaten to the 
consistence of a stifl" ductile mass or dough 
with the liquid ordered for the purpose. 
When powdered gum is one of the ingi-edients, 
the mass should be beaten up with water; 
but otherwise mucilage must be employed. 
Grum-tragacanth, owing to its gi'eater thicken- 
ing and binding powers, is here generally pre- 
ferred to gum-arabic. The charcoal of the 
light woods, as the linden, willow, and alder, 
make the best pastils ; that of the first being 
most esteemed for this purpose in France. 
The following receipts are among the best 
that can be made, and will serve as examples 
of these articles, from which the operator will 
be able to devise others : 

1338. Dr. Paris's Fumigating Pastils. 
Pulverize ^ pound benzoin, ^ pound cascariUa, 
l^r ounces myn'h, and 1-^ pounds charcoal; 
mix them through a sieve ; then add f ounce 
each of attars of nutmegs and of cloves ; dis- 
solve 2 ounces of nitre in sufficient mucilage 
of tragacanth to make the whole into a stiff 
paste •, beat well in a mortar, make into pas- 
tils, and dry. 

1339. Perfumers* Fumigating Pas- 
tils. Take of gum benzoin, 2 ounces (avoir- 
dupois) ; olibanum (in tears), \k ounces; 
storax (in tears), 1 ounce ; cascarilla and gum- 
tragacanth, of each f ounce ; nitre, 2 ounces ; 
charcoal, li pounds ; mix, and beat them up 
with water or rose water. 

1340. Piesse's Fumigating Pastils. 
Dissolve f ounce nitre in A pint rose water ; 
mix this with i pound willow charcoal, and 
dry it thoroughly in a warm place. When 
the nitrated charcoal is perfectly dry, pour 
upon it a mixture of 5 drachm each of the 
attars of thyme, caraway, rose, lavender, 
cloves, and santal; then stir in 6 ounces 
benzoic acid (flowers of benzoin) ; mix thor- 
oughly through a sieve, then beat in a mortar 
with "^sufficient mucilage to bind together. 
Make into pastils, and dry. 

1341. Basis for French Pastils. Take 
of charcoal, 1 5 pounds avoirdupois ; nitre, 2 
ounces; gum-tragacanth, 1 ounce; mix in 
the dry state. It is used as a basis for the 
following French pastils, as well as many 
others : — 

1342. Pastilles aux Fleurs d'Oranges. 
To each pound of E'os. 1341 or 1339, add of 
orange powder (genuine), 21 ounces avoirdu- 
pois ; neroli, 1 Imperial fluid drachm ; and 
beat up the mass with eau de fleurs d'oranges. 



FUMIG ATING PASTILS. 



139 



1343. Pastilles a la Rose. To each 
pound of Kos. 1341 or 1342, add of pale rose 
powder, 3 ounces avoirdupois; essence of 
roses, 2 Imperial fluid drachms ; and beat up 
the mass with eau de rose. 

1344. Pastilles a la Vanille. To each 
pound of iSTos. 1339 or 1341 (usually the first), 
add of vanilla (in fine powder), 2 ounces av- 
oirdupois ; cloves (in fine powder), 5 ounce ; 
essence of vanilla, 5 Imperial fluid ounce ; 
oil of cloves, oil of cassia, of each i fluid 
drachm ; and beat up the mass with cinnamon 
water. 

1345. Pastils of Every Variety. The 
products of the preceding formulae are of ex- 
cellent quality. They may be varied, to please 
the fancy of the maker, by the omission of 
some of their aromatic ingredients, or by the 
addition or substitution of others. Cheaper 
articles are made by simply increasing the 
proportion of the charcoal and saltpetre. 
Good burning qualities depend greatly on the 
completeness of the mixture, and the moder- 
ate compactness of the mass. If they burn 
too slowly, a little more saltpetre may be 
added ; if too fast, the quantity of saltpetre 
should be slightly lessened. Musk and civet, 
though often ordered in books as ingredients 
in pastils, should be avoided, as they give out 
a disagreeable odor during combustion. Am- 
bergris is also unsuited for an ingi-edient in 
them. 

1346. Incense. Storax, 2^ ounces ; ben- 
zoin, 12 ounces ; musk 15 grains ; burnt sugar, 
4 ounce ; frankincense, 21 ounces ; gum-tra- 
gacanth, I5 ounces; rose-water sufficient to 
form a mass ; to be divided into small tablets. 

1347. Incense. Powdered cascarilla, 2 
ounces; myrrh, storax, benzoin, burgundy 
pitch, each 1 ounce; mix. Or: 

1348. Fine Incense. Take of olibanum 
(true), 7 parts; gum benzoin, 2 parts; mix. 
Or : To the last, add of cascarilla 1 part. The 
preceding, placed on a hot iron plate, or burned 
in a censer, were formerly used to perfume 
apartments. The incense used in the rites of 
the Koman Catholic Church, and in the tem- 
ples of India, consists wholly or chiefly of 
olibanum. 

1349. Preserved Flowers and Herbs. 
Flowers, herbs, and other like vegetable sub- 
stances, are now generally preserved, for dis- 
tillation, by means of common salt. The 
process simply consists in intimately mixing 
the flowers, <fcc., with about ^ their weight of 
good dry salt, and ramming down the mixture 
as tightly as possible, in strong casks or jars. 
The casks or jars are then placed in the cellar, 
or other cold place, and covered with boards, 
on which heavy weights are put, to keep the 
mass tight and close. In this state they may 
be preserved from season to season, or even 
for two or three years. The flowers, <fcc., 
should be recently gathered, and free from 
dew or moisture ; and the salt should be quite 
dry, to ensure which it may be exposed for 2 
or 3 hours in an oven. The above is the 
method now generally followed, by our man- 
ufacturing perfumers and wholesale druggists, 
for preserving fresh aromatic vegetable sub- 
stances for subsequent distillation. It is 
found that the odor of distilled waters, oils, 
<fec., obtained from flowers, &q., thus pre- 
served, is superior to that of those from either 



the recent or dried vegetables ; whilst the 
products keep better, and are quite free from 
the peculiar rawness found in those from 
fresh herbs and flowers, and which nothing 
but age, or redistillation, will remove. 

1350. To Scent Tobacco. Fragi-ance 
may be imparted to tobacco, by mixing with 
it, while slightly damp, a little cascarilla, 
either in very fine shreds or recently powder- 
ed ; or by a like addition of any of the sub- 
stances noticed under fumigating pastils {see 
No. 1339) of which the odor is appropriate to 
the purpose. Cigars may be perfumed by 
moistening them externally with concentrated 
tincture of cascarilla, or tincture of benzoin 
or storax, or a mixture of them ; or a minuta 
portion of the powders, shred roots, or woods, 
may be done up with the bundle of leaves 
that form the centre of the cigar. The so- 
called anti-choleraic and disinfecting cigars 
are scented with camphor, cascarilla, and 
benzoin. 

1351. Scented or Aromatic Candles. 
These are prepared by introducing a very 
small quantity of any appropriate aromatic 
into the material (fat, wax, or wick) of which 
they are made, whilst it is in the liquid state. 
Camphor, gum benzoin, balsam of Peru, cas- 
carilla, essential oils, &c., are generally the 
substances selected. Care must be taken not 
to overdo it, as then the candles will bum 
smoky and give little light. 

1352. To Make Snuff Scents. Of the 
substances used, singly and combined, to scent 
snufi", the following may be mentioned as the 
principal: — tonqua beans, and their oil or 
essence; ambergris, musk, civet, and their 
essences. 

1353. To Scent Snuff. A sufficient 
quantity of the powder, essence, or oil, hav- 
ing been well mixed with a little snuff, the 
perfumed mixture is added to the whole 
quantity of snuff to be scented, and the mass 
well stirred up and turned over. It is lastly 
passed or rubbed through a sieve, to ensure 
the perfect diffusion of the scent through the 
whole mass. 

1354. To Restore the Odor of Musk. 
Genuine musk frequently becomes nearly in- 
odorous by keeping, but its perfume is restored 
by exposing it to the fumes of ammonia, or 
by moistening it with ammonia water. 

1355. Peau d'Espagne, or Spanish 
Skin, is merely highly-perfumed leather. 
Take of oil of rose, neroli, and santal, each 5 
ounce; oil of lavender, verbena, bergamot, 
each i ounce ; oil of cloves and cinnamon, 
each 2 drachms ; in this dissolve 2 ounces 
gum benzoin. In this steep good pieces of 
waste leather for a day or two, and dry it 
over a line. Prepare a paste by rubbing in 
a mortar, 1 drachm of civet with 1 drachm of 
grain musk, and enough gum-tragacanth 
mucilage to give a proper consistence. The 
leather is cut up into pieces about 4 inches 
square ; two of these are pasted together with 
the above paste, placed between 2 pieces of 
paper, weighted or pressed until dry. It may 
then be inclosed in silk or satin. It gives off 
its odor for years ; is much used for perfuming 
paper, envelopes, <fcc.; for which purpose 1 or 
2 pieces of the perfumed leather, kept in the 
drawer or desk containing the paper, will 
impart to it a fine and durable perfume. 



14r0 



SYBUPS. 



SympS. Syrups are solutions of 
sugar more or less strong according to 
the object for which they are used. In the 
preparation of syrups, if care be taken to em- 
ploy the best refined sugar, and either distilled 
water or filtered rain water, they will be 
rendered much less liable to spontaneous 
decomposition, and will be perfectly trans- 
parent, without the trouble of clarification. 

1357. Clarification of Sugar for 
Syrups. When inferior sugar is employed, 
clarification is always necessary. This is 
best done by dissolving the sugar in the water 
or fruit juices cold, and then beating up a 
little of the cold syrup with some white of 
Qgg, and 1 or 2 ounces of cold water, until the 
mixture froths well ; this must be added to 
the syrup in the boiler, and the whole whisked 
up to a good froth; heat should now be ap- 
plied, and the scum which forms removed 
fi-'om time to time with a clean skimmer. As 
soon as the syrup begins to slightly simmer 
it must be removed from the fire, and allowed 
to stand until it has cooled a little, when it 
should be again skimmed, if necessary, and 
then passed through a clean flannel. When 
vegetable infusions or solutions enter into the 
composition of syrups, they should be ren- 
dered perfectly transparent, by filtration or 
clarification, before being added to the sugar. 

1358. Filters for Syrups. Syrups are 
usually filtered, on the large scale, by passing 
them through creased bag filters; on the 
small scale, conical flannel bags are usually 
adopted. Thick syrups filter with difficulty, 
hence it is a good plan to dilute them before 
filtering, and afterwards evaporate them to 
the required consistency. For small quantities 
clarification involves less trouble than filtra- 
tion. {See No. 1357.) 

1359. To make 
Take a square piece of 
flannel or Canton flan- 
nel, fold it diagonally, 
and sew two of the 
corresponding edges to- 
gether with an over-lap 
seam, leaving the other 
two edges open ; then 
fold the open edge over, 
sufficiently to make the 
opening level. {See Fig. 
I.) This fold gives a 
feonsiderable degree of 
stiffness to the open 
end, preventing the filter in some measure 
from collapsing. Professor Parrish, in his book 
on Practical Pharmacy, 
recommends the use of a 
conical wire frame {see 
Fig. 2) to support the fil- 
ter. The frame is made to 
fit into the top of a suita- 
ble tin bucket, being sup- 
ported by a rim or flange 
around the top of the 
frame, projecting suffi- 
ciently to rest on the edge ^*^' ■^• 

of the bucket. The filter must fit the frame. 

1360. Quantity of Sugar Used in 
Making Syrups. The proper quantity of 
sugar for syrups will, in general, be found to 
be 2 pounds avoirdupois to every pint of wa- 



Conical Filter. 




Fig. 1. 




ter or thin aqueous fluid. These proportions 
allow for the water that is lost by evaporation 
during the process, and are those best calcu- 
lated to produce a syrup of the proper consist' 
ence, and possessing good keeping qualities. 
They closely correspond to those recommend- 
ed by Guibourt for the production of a perfect 
syrup, which, he says, consists of 30 parts 
sugar to 16 parts water. To make highly 
transparent syrups the sugar should be in a 
single lump, and by preference taken from the 
bottom or broad end of the loaf; as, when 
taken from the smaller end, or if it be pow- 
dered or bruised, the syrup will be more or 
less cloudy. 

1361. Amount of Heat to be Em- 
ployed in Making Syrups. In the prep- 
aration of syrups it is of great importance to 
employ as little heat as possible, as a solution 
of sugar, even when kept at the temperature 
of boiling water, undergoes slow decomposi- 
tion. The best plan is to pour the water 
(cold) over the sugar, and to allow the two 
to lie together for a few hours, in a covered 
vessel, occasionally stirring, and then to ap- 
ply a gentle heat, preferably that of steam or 
a water-bath, to finish the solution. Some 
persons (falsely) deem a syi-up ill prepared 
unless it has been allowed to boil well ; but if 
this method be adopted, the ebullition should 
be only of the gentlest kind (simmering), and 
should be checked after the lapse of one or 
two minutes. When it is necessary to thicken 
a syrup by boiling, a few fragments of glass 
should be introduced, in order to lower the 
boiling point. In boihng syrups, if they ap- 
pear likely to boil over, a little oil, or rubbing 
the edge of the pan with soap, will prevent it. 
Syrups are judged by the manufacturer to be 
sufficiently boiled, when some taken up in a 
spoon pours out like oil ; or, a drop cooled on 
the thumb nail gives a proper thread when 
touched. {SeeNo.V^m.) When a thin skin 
appears on blowing upon the syrup, it is 
judged to be completely saturated. These 
rude tests often lead to errors, which might be 
easily prevented by employing the proper 
proportions, or determining the specific 
gravity. 

1362. Table of Specific Gravities of 
Syrups. 

The degrees of Baume here given are those 
of his heavy saccharometer. 



Sugar 


Specific 


Degrees 


in 100 parts. 


Gravity. 


Baiime. 





1.000 


0° 


5 


1.020 


3 


10 


1.040 


6 


15 


1.062 


8 


20 


1.081 


11 


25 


1.104 


13.5 


30 


1.128 


16.3 


35 


1.152 


19 


40 


1.177 


21.6 


45 


1.204 


24.5 


50 


1.230 


27 


55 


1.257 


29.5 


60 


1.284 


32 


67 


1.321 


35 


The latter density is about the syrupus of 


the pharmacopoeias; that of the U. S. Ph. has a 


sp. grav. 1.317; that of the British Ph. is 1.330. 



SYBUPS. 



14:1 



1363. To Determine the Density of 
Syrup. A fluid ounce of saturated syrup 
weighs 5774 grains; a gallon weighs 13|- 
pouads avoirdupois; its specific gravity is 
1.319 to 1.321, or 35° Baume ; its boiling point 
is 221'^ Fah., and its density at the tempera- 
ture of 2120 is L260 to 1.261, or 30° Baume. 
The syrups prepared with the juices of fruits 
mark about 2° or d^ more on Baurae's scale 
than the other syrups. {Cooleij.) According 
to Ure, the decimal part of the number denot- 
ing the specific gravity of a syrup, multiplied 
by 26, gives the number of pounds of sugar it 
contains per gaUon, very nearly. 

1364. To Preserve Syrups. The pre- 
servation of syrups, as well as of all saccharine 
Bolutions, is best promoted by keeping them 
in a moderately cool, but not a very cold place. 
Let syrups be kept in vessels well closed, and 
in a situation where the temperature never 
rises above 55° Fah. They are better kept in 
small than in large bottles, as the longer a 
bottle lasts, the more frequently it will be 
opened, and, consequently, the more it will 
be exposed to the air. By bottling syrups 
whilst boiling hot, and immediately corking 
down and tying the bottles over with blad- 
der, perfectly air-tight, they maybe preserved, 
even at a summer heat, for years, without 
fermenting or losing their transparency. 

1365. To Prevent Syrup from Candy- 
ing'. The candying or crystallization of 
syrup, unless it be over-saturated with sugar, 
may be prevented by the addition of a little 
acetic or citric acid (2 or 3 drachms per gal- 
lon ) ; confectioners add a little cream of tartar 
to the sugar, to prevent granulation. 

1366. To Prevent Syrup from Fer- 
menting. The fermentation of syrups may 
be effectually prevented by the addition of a 
little sulphite of potassa or of lime. A cele- 
brated French chemist recommends the addi- 
tion of about 3 to 4 per cent, sugar of milk, 
with the same intention. Fermenting syrups 
may be immediately restored by exposing the 
vessel containing them to the temperatm'e of 
boiling water. The addition of a little spirit 
is also good. 

1367. To Bleach Syrup. Syrups may 
be decolored by agitation with, or filtration 
through, animal charcoal. 

1368. Degrees of Boiling Sugar. 
In preparing 'sugar for candies, (fee, the con- 
fectioner requires different degrees of boiling 
in order to bring the sugar to the proper 
state for the various articles he prepares. 
Well clarified and perfectly transparent syrup 
is boiled until a skimmer dipped into it, and a 
portion touched between the forefinger and 
thumb, on opening them, is drawn into a 
small thread which crystallizes and breaks. 
This is called a \cealc candy h eight . 

If boiled again, it will draw into a larger 
string, and if bladders may be blown with the 
mouth through the drippings from the ladle, 
it has acquired the second degree, and is 
called hlooni sugar. 

After still further boiling, it arrives at the 
state called feathered sugar. To determine 
this, dip the skimmer and shake it over the 
pan, then give it a sudden flirt or jerk, and the 
sugar will fly off like feathers. 

The next degree is that of cracJcled sugar, in 
which state the sugar that hangs to a stick 



dipped into it, and put directly into cold wa- 
ter, is not dissolved off, but turns hard and 
snaps. 

The last stage of boiling reduces it to cara- 
mel sugar, and is proved by dipping a stick 
into the sugar and then into cold water^ when, 
on the moment it touches the water, it will 
snap like glass. It has now arrived at a fuU 
candy height. 

Throughout the boiling, the fire must not 
be too fierce, as it will discolor the syrup. 
The best safeguard against this is the use of 
steam heat. Color may be given to the 
candy by adding the coloring matter to the 
syrup before boiling it. Flavoring essences 
must be added when the process is nearly 
complete. 

1369. To Make Syrups for the Man- 
ufacture of Cordials and Liquors. Take 
1 pint of water to every 2 pounds of sugar 
used ; this proportion will make a fine syrup, 
about 32® Baume, but the manufacturer often 
requires weaker syraps when preparing infe- 
rior cordials, and the easiest method of ascer- 
taining the proper point of concentration is 
by the use of that variety of Baume's hy- 
drometer, called a saccharometer. Beat up 
the whites of 2 eggs (if you are clarifying 
about 10 pounds of sugar, or mix in this pro- 
portion), until it is very frothy, and then mix 
in with the rest. 

1370. Plain Syrup. Put into a very 
clean copper, 100 pounds loaf sugar and 3 
gallons water; take the white of 12 good 
eggs, whisk them up to a froth in a pan, and 
put them into a copper before the fire is light- 
ed ; stir them well in the sugar, make a good 
fire, and let the mixture be still. As it comes 
toward boiling, the scum will rise; be par- 
ticular not to let it bubble or boil, but simmer ; 
as soon as the scum is seen to break through 
the edge of the copper, damp the fire, and 
take off the first scum ; then stir it up and 
let it simmer ; keep skimming it until it be- 
comes clear and bright, and the scum as white 
as milk ; then draw your fire, and take it out 
of the copper, and it will be fit for use. The 
quantity thus made will be 10 gallons. 

1371. Gum Syrup. Dissolve 20 pounds 
best clear white gum-arabic in 4 gallons water 
nearly boiling hot; take 60 pounds sugar, 
melt and clarify it with 1 gallon water, add 
the gum solution, and boil for 2 minutes. 

1372. Raspberry; Syrup. This syrup 
is sometimes used to give a vinous body and 
flavor to brandy. It is made of 2 pints filtered 
raspbei-ry juice, and 4i pounds sugar. Select 
the fruit, either white or red. Having picked 
them over, mash them in a pan, which put in 
a warm place until fermentation has com- 
menced. Let it stand for about 3 days. All 
mucilaginous fruits require this, or else they 
would jelly when bottled. ISTow filter the 
juice through a close flannel bag, or blotting- 
paper, and add sugar in the proportion men- 
tioned above ; this had better be powdered. 
Place the syrup on the fire, and as it heats 
skim it carefully, but do not let it boil ; or 
mix it in a glass vessel or earthenware jar, 
and place in a pan of -u-ater on the fire. 
(This is simply a water-bath.) Wlien the 
syrup is dissolved, so that when you dip 
your fore-finger in it and apply it to the ball 
of your thumb, and then separate the thumb 



X4:2 S YE UPS. 

and finger, the fine thread of syrup reaches 
from eacli without breaking, take it off; strain 
through a cloth; bottle when cold; cover 
with tissue paper dipped in brandy, and tie 
down with a bladder until wanted for use. 

1373. Imitation Raspberry Syrup. 
Dissolve 50 pounds white sugar in 10 gallons 
water; then make an infusion of i pound 
powdered orris root in i gallon boiling water, 
m a covered vessel, stirring occasionally as it 
cools, and when cold, filter through fiannel ; 
stir this infusion into the syrup; then stir in 
i pound tartaric acid previously dissolved in 1 
quart water. Color the mixture with J to I 
gallon cherry juice, using more or less, as re- 
quired to produce the desired color. This 
produces a splendid imitation of raspberry 
syrup at a comparatively trifling cost. 

1374. Parrisli's Strawberry Syrup. 
Take 4 quarts fresh fruit; express the juice, 
and strain; add water until it measures 4 
pints. Dissolve 8 pounds raw sugar in this 
by the aid of heat; raise it to the boiling 
point, and strain. If it is to be kept till the 
following season, it should be poured, while 
hot, into dry bottles, filled to the neck, and 
securely corked. This furnishes a key for the 
treatment of the whole family of fruit juices. 

1375. Lemon Syrup. Take 5 gallons 
lemon juice, 1 ounce best oil of lemons dis- 
solved in k pint of alcohol; or the rinds of 16 
lemons rubbed with sugar to extract the es- 
sential oil; dissolve 80 pounds of sugar in 
the juice, and boil for 2 minutes; skim, then 
strain. 

1376. Orgeat Syrup. Take 10 pounds 
sweet almonds, 4 pounds bitter almonds; 
cover them with boiling hot water ; let them 
stand till nearly cold, and peel them by press- 
ing through your fingers ; beat them in a 
stone or brass mortar to a very fine paste with 
some sugar, adding water slowly ; press 
through a linen cloth, so as to get 5 gallons 
of a liquid resembling rich milk ; dissolve in 
this liquid 80 pounds sugar; boil up once, 
and add 1 pint orange-flower water ; then 
strain, 

1377. Arrack Puncli Syrup. Take 
53i pounds sugar ; 3^ gallons water. Boil 
up well, then add If gallons lemon juice, and 
stir till the liquid is clear ; pour it into a clean 
tub, and, when nearly cool, add 5 gallons Ba- 
tavia arrack;, then filter. 

1378. Syrup of Coffee. Take 10 pounds 
best Java coffee, fresh roasted and ground, 
and 6 gallons boiling water. Let it stand, 
well covered, till cool ; strain and press ; next 
dissolve in this infusion 80 pounds sugar; boil 
and skim for 2 minutes, and then strain. 

1379. Cinnamon Syrup. Take 1 ounce 
oil of Ceylon cinnamon, rubbed and dried up 
with carbonate of magnesia in a mortar, so as 
to make it a powder ; put it in a filter bag, 
and pour 5 gallons water on it ; pour the wa- 
ter over and over till it runs clear; get in 
this way 5 gallons clear high-flavored water ; 
dissolve 80 pounds of sugar in the flavored 
water, and boil for 2 minutes ; then skim and 
strain. 

1380. Sirop Capillaire. Maidenhair 
Syrup. Take 1 pound maidenhair herb, and 
5i gallons boiling water. Macerate till cold ; 
strain without pressing, so as to get 5 gallons; 
take the whites of 3 eggs beaten to froth, and 



mix them with the infusion; keep back a 
quart of the liquid ; then dissolve and boil in 
the above 80 pounds sugar by a good heat; 
when the scum rises, put m a little from the 
quart of cold liquid, and this will make the 
scum settle ; let it raise and settle 3 times ; 
then skim, and when perfectly clear add | 
pint orange-flower water; then boil once up 
again and strain. 

1381. Cherry Syrup. Take 5 gallons 
cherry juice; let it ferment a few days; dis- 
solve and boil 80 pounds of sugar ; when, 
clear, skim and strain. 

1382. Syrup of Orange Peel. Ke- 
duce 2 ounces dried orange peel to coarse 
powder, put it in a small glass percolator, and 
pour deodorized alcohol slowly on it till 6 
fluid ounces of tincture have passed ; evapo- 
rate this spontaneously to 2 fluid ounces ; 
triturate this with h ounce carbonate of mag- 
nesia, 1 ounce sugar and i a pint water 
gradually added; pour this on a filter, and 
when it ceases to pass, add water till a pint of 
filtrate is obtained ; to this add 21 pounds 
sugar ; dissolve with a gentle heat, and straia 
if necessary. 

1383. Puncli Syrup. Digest 8 ounces 
fresh lemon peel cut in small pieces and 
bruised, in 12 ounces Jamaica rum for 3 days, 
and strain. Mix 28 ounces strained lemon 
juice with 18 ounces rum; allow it to settle, 
and filter through paper. Dissolve 5 pounds 
powdered white sugar in 42 ounces rum at a 
gentle heat, and when cool, mix all the liquids 
together. This is in no way inferior to the 
most celebrated European punch syrups. 



Syrups for Soda or Min- 
eral Waters. The following 
is a collection of well approved receipts for 
flavoring mineral waters, selected principally 
from the '^ Druggist's Circular and Chemical 
Gazette." Most of the syrups not made from 
fruits may have a little gum-arabic added, in 
order to produce a rich froth when the soda 
water is added. 

1385. Simple Syrup. To 8 pounds 
finest white sugar, add 2 quarts water and the 
whites of 2 eggs ; stir until all the sugar is 
dissolved ; simmer for 2 or 3 minutes ; skim 
well, and strain through a fine fiannel bag. 
The following syrups for soda water may be 
produced by employing the above syrup as a 
basis. A variety of other syrups may be made 
in the same way by using the artificial fruity 
essences. (See No. 1045, also last receipt.) 

1386. Simple Syrup. White sugar, 10 
pounds ; water, 1 gallon ; isinglass (best), i 
ounce (or, the white of an egg). Dissolve" 
the isinglass in hot water, and add it to the 
hot syrup. The syrup is to be made with 
gentle heat, and then strained. 

1387. Lemon Syrup. Add to simple 
syrup, when cold, 20 drops fresh oil of lemon 
and 5 ounce citric acid (previously dissolved 
in 3 ounces water) to each gallon. Mix by 
shaking well in a bottle, then add 4 ounces 
gum solution, made by dissolving 2 ounces 
fine white gum-arabic in 2 ounces warm 
water. 



S YE UPS. 



143 



1388. Lemon Syrup. Grrate oflP the 
yellow rind of lemons, and heat it np witli a 
sufficient quantity of granulated sugar. Ex- 
press the lemon juice, add 1 pint water to 
each pint of juice and 85 pounds granulated 
sugar, including that rubbed up with the rind ; 
warm untlL th« sugar is dissolved, and strain. 

1389. Sarsaparilla Syruji. To 1 gal- 
lon simple syrup add 10 drops oil of anise, 20 
drops oil of wintergreen, 20 drops oil of sassa- 
fras, and 6 ounces caramel, or coloring. Before 
the oils are added to the syrup, they should be 
cut by grinding them in a mortar, with as 
much sugar as they will moisten, or mixed 
with a small quantity of strong alcohol. 

1390. Sarsaparilla Syrup. Take oil 
of wintergreen, 10 drops; oil of anise, 10 
drops ; oil of sassafras, 10 drops ; fluid extract 
of sarsaparilla, 2 ounces; simple syrup, 5 
pints ; powdered extract of liquorice, | ounce ; 
mix well. 

1391. Parrish's Syrup of Sarsaparilla 
for Mineral Waters. Talie simple syrup, 

4 pints; compound syrup of sarsaparilla, 4 fluid 
ounces; caramel, I2 ounces; oil of winter- 
green, 6 drops ; oil of sassafras, 6 drops ; mix. 

1392. Ginger Syrup. Bruised Jamaica 
ginger, 2 ounces; boiling water, 1 pint; 
macerate for 4 hours ; add fine white sugar, 2 
pounds, and strain through a fine flannel bag. 
Ginger syrup may also be made by adding 2 
ounces extract of ginger to 1 gallon simple 
syrup. 

1393. Ginger Syrup. Tincture of 
ginger, 2 fluid ounces ; simple syrup, 4 pints ; 
mix. 

1394. VaniUa Syrup. Yanilla, 6 
drachms; boiling water, 4| pints; sugar, 4 
pounds avoirdupois. Reduce the vanilla to 
fine powder by trituration with a portion of 
the sugar ; boil this with water for 2 hours in 
a covered vessel, then strain. 

1395. Vanilla Syrup. Fluid extract 
of vanilla, 1 ounce; citric acid, ^ ounce; 
simple syrup, 1 gallon; rub the acid -with 
some of the syrup, add the extract of vaniUa, 
and mix. 

1396. Wild Cherry Syrup. Steep 4 
ounces wild cherry bark, well bruised, in 1 
pint cold water, for 36 hours ; press out the 
infusion; let it stand till clear; decant, and 
add I5 pounds fine white sugar; mix and 
strain. 

1397. Wild Cherry Syrup. Moisten 

5 ounces wild cherry bark, in coarse powder, 
with water, and let it stand for 24 hours in a 
close vessel. Then pack it firmly in a perco- 
lator, and pour water upon it until 1 pint of 
fluid is obtaiued. To this add 28 ounces sugar. 

1398. Strawberry Syrup. Take fresh 
strawberries and inclose them in a coarse bag ; 
press out the juice, and to each quart add 1 
pint water and 6 pounds white sugar ; dissolve 
by raising it to the boiling point, and strain; 
bottle and cork hot, and keep in a cool place. 

1399. Strawberry Syrup. Take fresh 
strawberries, 5 quarts ; white sugar, 12 pounds ; 
water, 1 pint. Sprinkle some of the sugar over 
the fruit in layers, and allow the whole to 
stand for several hours; express the juice and 
strain, washing out the pulp with water; 
add the remainder of sugar and water, bring 
the fluid to the point of boiling, and then 
strain. This wiU keep for a long time. 



1400. Strawberry Syrup. Strawberry 
juice, 1 pint ; simple syrup, 3 pints ; solution 
of citric acid (see Fruit Acid), 2 drachms; 
mix. 

1401. Fruit Acid (used in some of the 
syrups). Citric acid, 4 ounces ; water, 8 
ounces. 

1402. Strawberry Syrup Without 
the Fruit. Add to 1 gallon simple syrup, 2 
tea-spoonfuls essence of strawberry, and i 
ounce tartaric acid. Color with coloring 
made as follows : Boil 1 ounce cochineal with 
5 tea-spoonful of cream of tartar. Strain. 

1403. Raspberry Syrup. Make as 
directed for strawberry syrup, either with the 
fruit or the essence. The flavor of this syrup 
is improved by using 1 pint currants to 5 of 
raspberries. 

1404. Blackberry Syrup. Make as 
directed for strawberry, and add to each quart 
1 ounce of the best French brandy. 

1405. Pineapple Syrup. Take a con- 
venient number of pineapples, pare and mash 
them in a marble or porcelain mortar, with a 
small quantity of sugar; express the juice, 
and for each quart take I5 pints water and 6 
pounds fine sugar ; boil the sugar and water, 
then add the juice; remove from the fire, and 
skim and strain. Or make it with the es- 
sence, as directed for strawberry. {See No. 
1402.) 

1406. Pineapple Syrup. Oil of pine- 
apple, 1 drachm ; tartaric acid, 1 drachm ; 
simple syrup, 6 pints ; mix. Or : Take 1 gal- 
lon expressed pineapple juice ; sugar, 15 
pounds; fruit. acid {see No. 1401), 2 ounces; 
mix. 

1407. Wintergreen Syrup. Oil of 
wintergreen, 25 drops ; simple syrup, 5 pints ; 
sufficient burnt sugar to color {see No. 694) ; 
mix. 

1408. Maple Syrup. Take maple 
sugar, 4 pounds ; water, 2 pints. 

1409. Chocolate Syrup. Mix 8 ounces 
chocolate in 2 pints water, and stir thoroughly 
over a slow fire. Strain, and add 4 pounds 
white sugar. 

1410. Orange Syrup. Take a con- 
venient number of fresh and ripe oranges, grate 
ofl" the outside yellow peel ; cut the oranges 
and express the juice ; and to each quart add 
1 pint water and 6 pounds sugar, previously 
well mixed with the grated peel. Dissolve by 
gentle heat, then strain. 

1411. Pear Syrup. Make as directed 
for pineapple syrup, or use the essence of pear, 
by adding to each gallon of simple syrup 2 
tea-spoonfuls essence of pear and i ounce of 
tartaric acid. 

1412. Apple Syrup. Make as directed 
for pineapple syrup; or with the ajjpropriate 
fruit essence and acid, as above. 

1413. Banana Syrup. Make as directed 
for pineapple syrup ; or with the appropriate 
fruit essence, as before directed. {See No. 1402.) 
Or: Take oil of banana, 2 drachms; tartaric 
acid, 1 drachm ; simple syrup, 6 pints ; mix. 

1414. Grape Syrup. Brandy, 2 pint; 
spirits of lemon, J ounce; tincture of red 
Saunders, 2 ounces; simple syrup, 1 gallon. 
Mix. 

1415. Orgeat Syrup. Take 3 ounces 
sweet almonds and i ounce bitter almonds ; 
gum-arabic in powder, k ounce; sugar in 



14.4r 



ALCOHOjl 



powder; 3 ounces. Eub together in a mortar, 
adding water from time to time, until the 
mixture measures 1 quart. Strain through a 
cloth, and mix with 1 gallon of simple syrup. 

1416. Imitation Orgeat Syrup. Cream 
syrup, 1 pint; vanilla syrup, 1 pint; oil of 
bitter almonds, 4 drops. Or: About 2 drachms 
imitation cream syrup {see No. 1430) are to 
be mixed with 2 ounces simple syrup and 
flarored with bitter almond and orange-flower 
waters. 

1417. Orange-Flower Syrup. Add to 

1 gallon simple syrup i ounce extract of or- 
ange flowers. 

1418. Coffee Syrup. Coffee, roasted, k 
pound; boiling water, 1 gallon. Enough is 
JBltered to make k gallon of the infusion, to 
which add granulated sugar, 7 pounds. 

1419. Nectar Syrup. Strawberry syrup, 
i pint ; Madeira wine, 1 ounce ; orgeat syrup, 

2 pint. Mix. 

1420. Nectar Syrup. Yanilla syi'up, 5 
pints; pineapple syrup, 1 pint; strawbei-ry, 
raspberry, or lemon syrup, 2 pints. Mix. 

1421. Sherbet Syrup. Yanilla syrup, 

3 pints; pineapple syrup, 1 pint; lemon 
syrup, 1 pint. Mix. 

1422. Ambrosia Syrup. Easpberry 
syrup, 2 pints ; vanilla syrup, 2 pints ; Hock 
wine, 4 ounces. Mix. 

1423. Hock and Claret Syrup. Hock 
or claret wine, 1 pint ; simple syrup, 2 pints. 
Mix. 

1424. Solferino Syrup. Brandy, 1 
pint ; simple syrup, 2 pints. Mix. 

1425. Cream Syrups. These are pre- 
pared by mixing highly flavored syrups with 
fresh cream. As this latter does not keep 
well, it is a more economical plan to make a 
simple cream syrup in suitable quantities, and 
to add a portion of it to the flavored syrup as 
required. This prevents the loss of different 
flavored syrups by spoiling, and allows of the 
cream being used for any flavored syrup. 

1426. Simple Cream Syrup. Mix to- 
gether thoroughly 1 pound powdered sugar 
with 1 pint fresh cream. Keep it in pint bot- 
tles for use. 

1427. Taylor's Cream Syrup. Fresh 
cream, i pint; fresh milk, 5 pint; powdered 
sugar, 1 pound. Mix by shaking, and keep 
in a cool place. The addition of a few grains 
of bicarbonate of soda. will for some time re- 
tard souring. 

1428. HubbeU's Cream Syrup. This 
is prepared with If pounds sugar to 1 pint of 
cream. 

1429. Cream Syrup. Take of fresh 
cream, 1 pint ; fresh milk, 1 pint ; fine pow- 
dered sugar, 3 pounds; beat the sugar with 
the milk and the whites of 2 eggs, then mix 
with the cream. Flavor with vanilla, lemon, 
or strawberry. Keep in a cool place, well 
bottled. 

1430. Imitation Cream Syrup. Make 
an emulsion with 3 fluid ounces fresh oil of 
sweet almonds, 2 ounces powdered gum-ara- 
bic, and 9 ounces water ; then dissolve 1 pound 
white sugar by a gentle heat, strain, and 
when cool, add the whites of 2 eggs. It 
should be put up in small bottles, well corked, 
in a cool place. This is not only an excellent 
imitation and substitute for cream syrup, but 
will keep well for a considerable time. 



1431. Cream Syrup. Take of fresh 
unskimmed milk, 1 pint; sugar, 2 pounds, 
Troy. Dissolve by shaking in a bottle, add ^ 
of this to f of any of the fruit syrups ; or, for 
vanilla cream, add about a table- spoonful of 
fluid extract of vanilla to 1 pint. 

1432. Vanilla Cream Syrup. Fluid 
extract of vanilla, 1 ounce ; simple syrup, 3 
pints; cream (or condensed milk), 1 pint 
May be colored with carmine. 

1433. Coffee Cream Syrup. Coffee 
syrup, 2 pints ; Cream, 1 pint. 

1434. Nectar Cream Syrup. This is 
a mixture of 3 parts vanilla syrup, 1 part 
pineapple syrup, 1 part lemon syrup, and 1 
part simple cream syrup. 



AlCOllOl. Alcohol is a light, trans^ 
^/rjL_parent, colorless, volatile, inflammable 
fluid; mixes in all proportions with water, 
with evolution of heat and condensation oi 
the mixture, but some hours elapse before the 
union is complete. It dissolves resins, essen- 
tial oils {see No. 940), camphor, bitumen, 
soaps, sugar, the alkaloids, wax, spermaceti, 
and various other substances. Boils at 172°, 
and in a vacuum at 56° Fahr.; cm-dies mUk ; 
coagulates albumen, and separates both starch 
and gum from their mucilages ; uncongealable 
by cold; powerfully antiseptic to animal or 
vegetable substances immersed in it; with 
acids it forms ethers. Its evaporation, like that 
of ether, produces intense cold. By undergoing 
the acetic fermentation it is converted into 
vinegar. Dilute alcohol may be procured bj 
the ordinary process of distillation, from all 
fermented liquors ; when drawn from wine, as 
in France, it is called brandy ; when from rice, 
as in the East Indies, it is called aiTack or 
toddy ; when from grain or malt, as in the 
United States or Great Britain, it is calle^d 
whiskey, and when from rnolasses or the juice 
of the sugar-cane, as in the "West Indies, it is 
called rum. 

Whiskey is the spirit from which alcohol is 
usually obtained in this country. 

By distilling a hundred gallons of whiskey, 
between 50 and 60 gallons of alcohol are re- 
ceived in the condenser of a specific gravity 
of 0.835. By a second distillation, takiug 
care to coUect only the first portions, and 
cautiously managing the heat so as not to 
allow it to rise to the temperatm-e of boiling 
water, alcohol may be obtained of a specific 
gravity of 0.825, which is the lightest spirit 
that can be received by ordinary distillation. 
At this stage it contains 11 per cent, of wa- 
ter and some smaU portions of fusel oil. 

The best alcohol is that manufactured under 
Attwood's patent process, in which manganio 
acid is used to destroy the fusel oil and other 
foreign substances. This alcohol withstands 
the tests of nitrate of silver and sulphuric 
acid remarkably well. {See No. 1444.) 

The high wine, or rectified sphit, distilled 
and rectified in the United States, and often 
sold as French pm-e spirit, is free from aU 
deleterious substances, and nearly scentless. 
Its strength is usually from 84 to 95 per cent. 
{SeeNos. 53, 4^.) 

1436. Proof Spirit contains 52^^ per cent 
by volume of pure alcohol; has a specific 



ALCOHOL 



14., 



gravity of .920 at 60° Fahr.; and is no more 
than a mixture of 49 parts bj "sveigbt pare 
alcohol with 51 parts water. This is the 
strength of the proof spirit usually employed 
by perfumers, and for medicinal pm*poses; 
but by law {see No. 58), proof spirit is equal 
parts by volume of absolute alcohol and dis- 
tilled water, having a specific gravity of .933. 

1437. Dilute Alcohol. Alcohol dilutum 
( TJ. S. Ph.) consists of equal measures of offi- 
cinal alcohol and water; it contains 39 per 
cent, by weight, or 46.33 per cent, by volume, 
of pure or absolute alcohol, and has a specific 
gravity of .941, equal to 19° of Baume's light 
hydrometer. 

1438. Alcohol. Officinal alcohol ( U. S. 
Ph.) contains 85 per cent, by weight, or 89 per 
cent, by volume, of pm-e alcohol ; its specific 
gravity is .835, or 38.45° Baume. 

1439. Stronger Alcohol. Alcohol for- 
tius ( r. S. Ph.) has 92 per cent, by weight, or 
94.65 per cent, by volume, of pure alcohol ; 
and a specific gravity of .817, or about 42° 
Baume. 

1440. Amy lie Alcohol. A peculiar 
oily, nearly colorless acrid liquid, known also 
as'^Fusel oil, obtained by distilling fermented 
grain or potatoes, by continuing the process 
after the ordinary spirit has ceased to come 
over. Its specific gravity is .818, and its boil- 
ing point 268° to 272° Fahr. ( U. S. Ph.) 

1441. Absolute Alcohol. To procure 
absolute or anhydrous alcohol, take the bladder 
of an ox or calf, soak it for some time ia 
water, then inflate it and carefully free it 
from the attached fat and vessels ; this must 
be done on both sides. After it is again 
inflated and dried, smear over the outer sur- 
face twice, and the inner surface four times, 
with a solution of isinglass. Then nearly fill 
it with the spirit to be concentrated, leaving 
only a small space vacant ; it is then to be 
securely fastened, and suspended in a warm 
situation, at a temperatm-e of about 122° 
Fahr., over a sand bath, or tu the neighbor- 
hood of an oven or fire. In six to twelve 
hours, if the heat be properly conducted, the 
spirit will be concentrated, and in a little 
time longer may be rendered 
nearly free from water (an- 
hydrous) or of the strength 
of 97 or 98 per cent. 

This alcohol wfil be suffi- 
ciently pure for all the com- 
mon purposes of the man- 
ufacturers, and is an excel- 
lent spirit for making var- 
nishes, &e. 

The same bladder will 
serve more than one hun- 
dred times; and in fact a 
common bladder, thorough- 
ly cleansed from fat, and 
washed and dried, may be 
used without any fm'ther 
preparation. The bladder 
should be kept very nearly 
full, or else a portion of the 
spirit will escape through 
the empty part. To pre- 
vent this accident, a bottle 
with a double neck, of the shape represented 
in the engraving, may be employed. By this 
means the bladder may be kept always full. 




A, A bottle with two necks, the upper 
furnished with a ground-glass stopper. 

B, Loop of cord to hang up the apparatus. 

C, Bladder containing spirit, filled by 
means of the bottle, A. 

D, J^eck of bladder accurately secured to 
the lower neck of the bottle, A. 

After the first or second time of using the 
bladder, it gives alcohol sufficiently pure for 
most expeiimental pm-poses. Before hanging 
the apparatus up, it is better to enclose and 
suspend it in a coarse netting, which will pre- 
vent any accident arising from the strain on 
the neck of the bladder. Should weaker spirit 
than that directed in the preceding formula 
be used, to procure alcohol by either method, it 
must be previously concentrated, or the ope- 
ration repeated a second time. 

Absolute alcohol is used to dissolve resius 
by the varnish maker ; essential oils, by the 
perfumer; pyroxyline (gun cotton), by the 
photographer; and by the pharmaceutist to 
prepare tinctures and for many other pur- 
poses. 

1442. Chemical Method of Procuring 
Absolute Alcohol. Take 1 gallon of the 
alcohol of commerce ; throw 1 pound freshly 
made chloride of calcium into the alcohol, and, 
as soon as it is dissolved, distill ofi" 7 pints and 
5 fluid ounces. Or, take of rectified spirit 1 
imperial pint; lime, 18 ounces; break the lime 
into small fragments, mix with the alcohol in 
a retort properly connected, and expose the 
mixture to a gentle heat untU the lime begins 
to slake; then withdraw the heat until the 
slaking is finished. IsTow raise the heat gently 
and distUl off 17 fluid ounces. Alcohol thus 
obtained will have a density, when the ope- 
ration is carefully managed, of 0.796. 

1443. To increase the Strength of 
Common Alcohol. Take a piat of common 
spirits, and put it into a bottle which it will 
only fill about f full. Add to it ^ ounce 
pearlash or salt of tartar, powdered as much 
as it can be without occasioning any great 
loss of its heat. Shake the mixtm-e frequent- 
ly for about half an horn*, before which time 
a considerable sediment, like phlegm, will be 
separatedfromthe spirits, and will appear along 
with the undissolved pearlash or salt at the 
bottom of the bottle. Then pour the spirit off 
into another bottle, being careful to biing 
none of the sediment or salt along with it. 
i?or this purpose an instrument called a 
separating funnel is well adapted. To the 
quantity just pom-ed off add i ounce pearlash, 
powdered and heated as before, and repeat 
the same treatment. Continue to do this as 
often as necessary, till little or no sediment 
forms ; when this is the case, 1 ounce of alum, 
powdered and made hot, but not burned, must 
be put into the spirits, and suffered to remain 
some hours, the bottle beiug frequently shaken 
during the time ; after which the spuit, when 
poured off, will be found free from aU impu- 
rities, and equal to the best rectified spirits 
of wine. 

1444. To Test the Purity of Alcohol, 
The presence of water may be detected by 
its specific gravity. Fusel oil may be de- 
tected by adding a Little of a solution of 
nitrate of silver to the alcohol. Dissolve 10 
grains nitrate of silver in 1 ounce of pure dis- 
tiQed water. Then take half a tumblerful o€ 



146 



ALCOHOL. 



the suspected liquor and drop into it 25 
drops of the above solution; and if the 
liquid should contain any grain oil, it will 
assume the form of a black powder and 
float on the surface. The action of this test 
is not always immediate, for it is sometimes 
necessary to wait from 1 to 30 hours when 
testing a sample of alcohol which has been 
well rectified, before any evidence of the oil or 
powder can b'e perceived floating on the 
Hquid, and even then it is necessary to expose 
the glass to a strong light before the powder 
can be discovered. 

For detecting fusel oil in alcohol, Mr. E. IS". 
Kent finds pure sulphmic acid the best test. 
Half fill a test tube with the spuit to be 
tested, then fill up slowly with pure concen- 
trated sulphmic acid. Pm-e spmt remains 
colorless; impure spirit becomes colored in 
proportion to the amount of fusel oil present. 
1 per cent, of wood spirit (wood naphtha) in 
alcohol, will cause it to turn yellow or brown 
with the addition of caustic potassa. Pm-e 
alcohol is neutral to test paper; should be 
colorless ; will evaporate entirely by heat ; 
retains its transparency when combined with 
water or ether ; tastes and smells vinous, 

1445. To Free Alcohol from Fusel 
Oil. This may be efi"ected by digesting the 
alcohol with charcoal. By Schaefler's method 
the alcohol is filtered through alternate layers 
of sand, wood-charcoal, boiled wheat, and 
broken oyster shells ; this removes all other 
impurities as well. The fusel oil can be ex- 
tracted from small quantities of alcohol, by 
adding a few drops of olive oil to the spirit, 
agitating thoroughly in a bottle, and, after 
settling, decanting. The olive oil dissolves 
and retains the fusel oil. 

1446. To Deodorise Whiskey or Al- 
cohol and free it from Fusel Oil. To the 
barrel of liquor add about a gallon (or more) 
of water saturated with chlorine; stir up 
thoroughly, and let it rest for 12 hours. Then 
saturate with chalk; add another gallon of 
water, and distill. 

1447. To Filter Alcohol. The foUow- 
ing method of filtering alcohol, or its solutions, 
is said to be very satisfactory, and is used ex- 
tensively in I^orth Grermany, where it consti- 
tutes one of the secrets of the trade. Clean, 
unsized paper (Swedish filtering paper is the 
best), is torn into shreds and stirred into the 
liquid to be clarified. The whole is then 
strained through a flannel bag, when the re- 
sulting liquid will be found to possess the 
utmost clearness and limpidity. A filter may 
also be made by spreading thin paper pulp 
evenly upon stretched flannel or woolen cloth. 
When dry, the cloth so coated will be found 
to give better results than the felts, etc., com- 
monlv employed as filters. {See Nos. 714 and 
mi.) 

1448. To Test the Strength of Alco- 
hol. Alcohol dissolves chloroform, so that 
when a mixture of alcohol and water is shaken 
up with chloroform, the alcohol and chloroform 
unite, leaving the water separate. On this 
fact Basile Kakowitsch, of the Imperial 
Russian Navy, has founded his invention. 
The instrument he uses is a graduated glass 
tube into which a measured quantity of 
chloroform is poured, and to this is added a 
given quantity of the liquid to be tested; 



these are well mixed together and then left to 
subside ; the chloroform takes up the alcohol 
and leaves the water, which, being lighter 
than the chlorofoiTQ, will float on the top ; 
and the quantity of water that has been mixed 
with the sphit will be at once seen. 

1449. Arithmetical Rules for the 
Treatment of Alcohol. The following 
excellent rules, derived from various sources, 
contain, and will yield to the manufacturer, 
much information of a very useful character. 

1450. To Ascertain the Cost of any 
Q,uantity of Alcohol at any Degree or 
Percentage of Strength Above or Be- 
low Proof. Alcohol is always bought and 
sold at so much above or below proof. To 
ascertain the price of a quantity of alcohol, 
add the percentage over proof, or deduct the 
percentage under proof, and multiply by the 
price per gallon. Thus : what will 40 gallons 
of alcohol, 25 per cent, over proof, cost at 28 
cents proof? "^e first find 25 per cent, of 40, 
which is 10 ; we then add that number to 40, 
the number of gallons, and we get 50 ; we 
then multiply 50 by 28, the price per gallon 
proof, and get |14.00, or 35 cents per gallon. 
Again, what will 40 gallons alcohol, 25 per 
cent under proof, cost, at 28 cents per gallon 
proof? Again, we find that 25 per cent, of 40 
is 10 ; we then deduct 10 from 40, this leaves 
us 30 ; by multiplying 30 by 28 we get $8.40, 
or 21 cents per gallon. 

1451. To Ascertain How Much Wa- 
ter Should be Added to Spirits, to Re- 
duce it from a Given Degree of Strength 
to a Lower Degree or Percentage of 
Strength. The manufacturer may some- 
times find it necessary to reduce or increase 
the strength of spirit, according as circum- 
st£.,nces may require. To accomplish this, 
we give the following rules, which will be 
found useful to the dealer : multiply the num- 
ber of gallons by the actual degree of strength 
of the spirit, and divide the amount by the 
degree of strength sought to be obtained, and 
from the answer subtract 100 ; the amount 
thus obtained will show the quantity of water 
to be added to the spirit in order to reduce it 
to the degree sought. For example : suppose 
you have 100 gallons of spirit at 80° by 
Tralles' hydrometer, and wish to reduce it to 
50° or proof. Multiply 100 by 80, and divide 
the amount by 50, then from the answer sub- 
tract 100 ; this will show that 60 gallons of 
water must be added to the spirit in order to 
reduce it to 50° Tralles', or proof 

Thus, 100 gallons 

Multiplied by 80 



Divided by 
Deduct 



50)8000(160 
100 

60 



1452. To Ascertain the Q,uantity of 
Pure or Absolute Alcohol in any Given 
Amount of Liquor. The quantity of alco- 
hol contained in any amount of liquor is 
readfly ascertained after testing the strength 
with Tralles' hydrometer at 60° Fahr., by 
simply multiplying the figures expressing the 
quantity of liquor, by the ascertained strength ; 
for example : a barrel of brandy containing 32 
gallons, 60° strong at 60° Fah., contains 19^ 
gallons pure alcohol. Kule. — Multiply the 



ALCOHOL 



14r7 



number of gallons by the ascertained degrees 
of strength, and divide by 100. Thus : 
32 gallons, 
60" TraUes' at 60° Fahi-. 



19.20, or 19^ gallons pure alcohol 

1453. To Ascertain the Number of 
Gallons at any Required Number Below 
Proof, in any Given Number of Proof 
Gallons. Multiply the given number of 
proof gallons by 100, and then divide the pro- 
duct thus obtained by a number found by 
deducting the required number of degrees be- 
low proof from 100. The quotient will be 
the answer. For example : How many gal- 
lons, 25 below proof, are there in 35 gallons 
proof? 

100 35 gallons proof, 

25 B. p. 100 

75 )3500(46|- gallons 25 below proof. 

We thus see by the above example that 35 
gallons proof spirit is equal to 461 gallons 25 
below proof. 

1454. To Increase the Strength of a 
Spirit from any Degree to a Higher 
given Degree, or Percentage. To in- 
crease the degree of strength of a spirit, multi- 
ply the number of gallons by the actual degree 
of strength of the spirit, and divide by the 
degree of strength sought to be obtained. 
For example: suppose you have 100 gallons 
of spirit at proot^ or 50° by Tralles' hydrom- 
eter, and wish to increase its strength to 80°. 
Multiply 100 gallons by 50 and divide by 80 ; 
the answer will give you the number of gal- 
Ions of spirit, 621, to be added to the 100 gal- 
lons in spirit in order to increase its volume to 
80° by Tralles' hydrometer. 

Thus, 100 

50 

80)5000 

62.4, or 62i 

1455. To Reduce Spirit a Given 
Number Above Proof to a Required 
Number Below Proof, by the Addition 
of Water. Multiply the number of gallons 
of spirit by the sum of the given degree above 
proof and the required degree below proof, 
and divide the product by a number to be 
found by subtracting the required proof from 
100. The quotient will give the number of 
gallons of water to be added. 

Suppose you want to reduce 40 gallons 
spirit 20 above proof to 10 below proof, 
how much water must be added to accom- 
plish the result ? 

100 40 gaUons. 
Required proof, 10 30 

90)l,200(13i gals, water. 
It will thus be seen that, to reduce 40 gal- 
lons spirit 20 above proof to 10 below proofs it 
will be necessary to add 13^ gallons of water, 
making 53^ gallons in all. 

1456. To Reduce High Proof Spirit 
to a Required Lower Proof, by the Ad- 
dition of Water, First multiply the num- 
ber of gallons by a number expressing the 
dijTerence in degrees of strength between the 
given proof of the spirit to be reduced and the 
required degree, or proof, to which it is to be 



reduced. Divide the product thus ascertained 
by a number to be found by aCding the re- 
quired proof to 100. 

Suppose you desire to reduce 72 gallons 
spirit at 30 above proof to 10 above proaf, 
how much water must you add ? 

30, given strength. 

10, required strength. 



20, difference. 

Eequired strength, 10 
100 



72, Ko. of gals. 
20, difference. 



110)l,440(13Ti^r gals. 
Thus it will be seen that, to reduce 72 gal- 
lons spirit at 30 above proof to 10 above 
proof, it is necessary to add 13t^i- gallons of 
water, making about 85 gallons in all. 

1457. To Reduce Spirit of a Given 
Number Above Proof to a Required 
Number Below Proof, by the Substitu- 
tion of Water for Spirit. Deduct the num- 
ber below proof from 100, and multiply the 
number of gallons by the remainder. Then 
add the number which the given liquor is 
above proof to 100, and divide the above pro- 
duct by the number thus obtained. The 
quotient, deducted from the original number 
of high proof gallons, will give the answer 
required. All small fractions may be rejected. 

Suppose you want to reduce a cask of 40 
gallons spirit at 20 above proof to 10 b*^!^" 
proof. 

100 
10 

Multiply 90 
by 40 

To 100 add 20=120)3,600(30 

Original number of gallons, 40 
Deduct quotient, 30 

Answer, 10 gallons. 

Thus it will be seen that 10 gallons should 

be removed, and their place supplied with 

water, in order to make the mixture equal to 

10 degrees below proof. 

1458. To Reduce Spirit of a Given 
Number Above Proof to Proof Spirit, 
by the Substitution of Water for Spirit. 
Multiply the number of gallons by 100, then 
add the number which the spirit is above 
proof to 100, and divide the above product by 
the number thus obtained ; subtract the quo- 
tient from the number expressing the original 
quantity of spirit, and the answer wdl give 
the number of gallons to be removed from 
the spirit and replaced vnth water, in order to 
reduce the high proof spirit down to proof. 

Suppose you want to reduce a cask of 24 
gallons of spirit 20 above proof to proof spirit. 
Above proof, 20 24 
100 100 

120)2,400(20 

Original quantity 24 
20 

Answer, 4 
It will be seen by the above example that 
4 gallons have to be taken from the spirit 
and the same quantity of water added, io re- 
duce it to proof. 



148 



ESSENTIAL OILS. 



1459. To Raise Spirit of a Given 
Number Under Proof to a Required 
Strength Above Proof, by tlie Substitu- 
tion of High. Proof Spirit. Multiply the 
number of gallons hy the number expressing 
the difference in degrees of strength between 
the high proof spirit to be added and the re- 
quired degree to which it is to be raised. 
Divide the product thus found by a number 
to be obtained by adding the given number 
below proof to the number the high spirit is 
above proof; then subtract the quotient from 
the original number of gallons, and the re- 
mainder will show the quantity of low spirit 
to be removed and its place supplied by the 
addition of the same quantity of high proof 
spirit. 

Suppose you desire to raise a cask of 40 
gallons at 10 below proof to 15 above proof, 
by means of spirit 40 above proof: 

40 40 A. p. 40 number of gals. 

15 10 B. B. 25 multiplied by diff. 

Diff. 25 50 )1000(20 

40 gals, original quantity to be raised. 
20 deduct quotient. 

20 answer. 
The above example shows that 20 gallons 
should be taken from the low proof spirit, 
and the same quantity of spirit added at 40 
above proof, to raise it to 15 above proof. 

1460. To Raise Spirit of a Given 
Number Below Proof to Proof Spirit, 
by the Substitution of High Proof 
Spirit. Multiply the number of gallons by 
the number which the high proof spirit is above 
proof, divide the product by a number to be 
found by adding the given number the spirit 
is below proof to the number the high spirit 
is above proof; subtract the quotient from the 
original number of gallons, and the remainder 
will show the quantity of low proof spirit to 
be removed, and its place to be supplied by 
the addition of high proof spirit. 

Suppose you desire to raise a cask of 40 
gallons at 5 below proof, to proof, by means 
of spirit 35 degrees above proof. 

35 A. p. 40 number of gallons. 

5 B. p. ■ 35 above proof. 



40 



)1400(35 quotient. 
40 gallons, 
35 quotient. 



5 answer. 

It will thus be seen that 5 gallons should 
be taken from the low proof spirit, and the 
same quantity of spirit added at 35 above 
proof, in order to raise it to proof strength. 

1461. To Raise Spirit of a Given 
Number Above Proof to a Still Higher 
Degree of Strength, by the Addition of 
High Proof Spirit. First multiply the 
number of gallons by a number expressing the 
difference in degrees of strength between the 
given proof of the spirit to be raised, and the 
required degree to which it is to be raised. 
Divide the product thus ascertained, by a 
number to be found by subtracting the differ- 
ence in degrees between the spirit to be raised 
and the high proof spirit employed to raise 
it. The quotient will show the number of 
gallons of a higher proof which must be added. 



Suppose you desire to raise a p-ask of 35 
gallons spirit 15 above proof to 20 above proo^ 
by the addition of spirit 30 above proof. 

20 required proof, 

15 given proof, 

5 difference. 
From 30 35 number of gallons. 
Subtract 15 5 multiplied by difference. 

15 )175(11| answer. 

1462. To Reduce Low Proof Spirit 
to a Still Lower Proof, by the Addition 
of "Water. First multiply the number of 
gallons by the difference in degrees of strength 
between the given proof of the spirit to be 
reduced, and the required proof to which it is 
to be reduced. Divide the product by a num- 
ber ascertained by subtracting the given proof 
from 100, and the quotient will give the num- 
ber of gallons of water to be added. 

Suppose you want to reduce 40 gallons 
spirit 10 below proof, to 15 below proof. 
Eequired proof 15 
Given proof 10 

Difference 5 

100 40 gallons 

10 given proof 5 difference 

90 )200(2f gals, water 

1463. To Raise a Low Proof Spirit 
to a Higher Required Proof by the Ad- 
dition of High Proof Spirit. Multiply 
the number of gallons by a number express- 
ing the difference in degrees of strength be- 
tween the given proof of the spirit to be 
raised, and the required proof to which it is 
to be raised. Divide the product thus ascer- 
tained by the sum of the given proof, and the 
high proof spirit to be added, and the quotient 
will give the answer. 

Suppose you desire to raise 40 gallons spirit 
15 below proof to 10 below proof with spirit 
10 above proof. 

Griven proof 15 

Eequired proof 10 



Difference 5 

Given proof 15 
High proof 10 



40 gallons 
5 difference 



25 )200(8 gals, answer. 



Essential Oils; Volatile 
Oils. The essential or volatile oils 
are an extensive and important class of bodies 
derived from the vegetable kingdom, and 
found in almost every part of the larger num- 
ber of the plants which produce them, except 
the cotyledons of the seeds, which, in general, 
form the exclusive repository of the fixed 
oils. It is the volatile oils which confer upon 
flowers, leaves, fruit, seeds, roots, barks, and 
woods, their peculiar and characteristic odors ; 
but among these they are not equally dis- 
tributed in the same individual, and are often 
altogether absent from some of them. To 
them we are indebted for our most delightful 
perfumes, and our choicest aromatics and 
spices. All of them, when perfectly pure, are 



ESSENTIAL OILS. 



14r9 



colorless ; though, before rectification, nearly 
the whole of them have a pale yellow tint, 
and some of them are brown, blue, or green. 
They mix in all proportions with the fixed 
oils,* dissolve freely in both alcohol and ether, 
and are sparingly soluble in water, forming 
perfumed or medicated waters. {See Nos. 1080, 
^'C.) Their boiling point usually ranges be- 
tween 310° and 325° Fahr., and is always con- 
siderably higher than water. They resist 
saponification and (excepting oil of cloves) 
do not combine with the salifiable bases. 
Their density fluctuates a little on either side 
of water. The lightest oil is that of citrons 
(specific gravity 0.847), and the heaviest, that 
of sassafras (specific gravity 1.096). TVTien 
cooled sufficiently they all soldify. The com- 
mon temperature of the atmosphere is suffi- 
cient for this with some of them, as the oils of 
roses and aniseed ; whilst others require to be 
cooled below the freezing point of water be- 
fore they assume the solid form. By exposure 
to the air they rapidly absorb oxygen, and 
become partially converted into resin. This 
is the cause of the deposit that usually forms 
in them (especially in the expressed oil of 
orange) when kept in an imperfectly stopped 
bottle. (Cooley.) 

1465. To Obtain Essential Oils. AU 
essential oils which are more or less volatile 
can be obtained from substances by distilling 
the articles along vrith an equal weight (some 
use a larger proportion) of water ; but some 
substances that give out their oil with diffi- 
culty, are first soaked for 24 hours in twice 
their weight of water, to each gallon of which 
1 pound of common salt has been added, by 
which its boiling point is raised, and conse- 
quently the oil comes over more easily. In 
such cases a quick fire is used, and when one 
half the water has come over, it is returned 
into the still, and this is repeated until the 
distilled water ceases to come over mixed 
with oil. The heat of steam or a salt water 
bath should be preferably employed ; but if a 
naked fire be used, the still should be deep 
and narrow, by which means the bottom will 
be more perfectly covered when the quantity 
of water becomes small, and burning prevent- 
ed. ^WTien the distilled water is to be repeat- 
edly poured back on the ingredients, a very 
convenient plan is to so arrange the apparatus 
that, after the water has separated from the 



latter accumulates at a, and the water flows 
over by the spout, h. The essential oil is ob- 
tained in this manner from the following: 
Anise, caraway, wormseed, cubebs, fennel, 
pennyroyal, juniper, lavender, lemon, cinna- 
mon, peppermint, spearmint, horsemint, ori- 
ganum, pimento, rosemary, savine, sassafras, 
valerian, &c. The empyreumatic oil of to- 
bacco is obtained by introducing the dry 
leaves in coarse powder into a green glass re- 
tort, heating it in a sand-bath to a dull red 
heat. Separate the oily liquid from the wa- 
tery portion as it comes over, and keep for 
use. {See No. 46.) The same receiver may 
be employed for oils heavier than water, by 
reversing the arrangement ; but a glass sepa- 
rator {see Fig. 2) will be found more con- 



^ 




Fig. 1. 

jil, it shall flow back again into the still, by 
which much time and trouble will be saved. 
The separation of the oil and water is efiect- 
ed by allowing the mixed liquids to drop iuto 
a Florentine receiver {see Fig. 1), when the 
oil is lighter than water, bv which means the 




Fig. 2. 

venient. In this case the oil accumulates at 
the bottom of the vessel, and may be drawn 
ofi" by the cock. The oil of cloves and other 
heavy essential oils are obtained by macera- 
ting 5 pounds coarsely powdered material for 
48 hours in 10 pounds water containing 1 
pound salt ; and distilling until the product is 
no longer milky. After the oil has deposited, 
the remaining water is again distilled, and 
this repeated until all the oil has been extract- 
ed from the water. After 10 days, the oU 
is cleaned and clarified by filtering. The es- 
sential oil of cloves, cinnamon, rhodium-wood, 
sandal, calamus, aloes, &c., are thus obtained. 
That of bitter almonds and of mustard are ob- 
tained by making a thin paste of the material 
with water ; and, after 24 hours' maceration, 
distilling by steam-bath. The essential oils 
of lemons, oranges, and some other fniits, 
are chiefly obtained by submitting the yellow 
rind to powerful pressure; but in this way 
they are not so white, nor do they keep so 
well as when distilled. Yolatile oils should 
be kept in well-closed and nearly full bottles, 
in the dark, and opened as seldom as possible, 
as by age and frequent exposure they become 
resinous. The process of distillation should 
be done as rapidly as possible, and the light 
oils collected soon after its separation from 
the water. 

1466. Special Directions for Distill- 
ing' Essential Oils. Substances yielding 
volatile oils are generally distilled with water, 
the proportion of which varies with eacb 



150 



ESSENTIAL OILS. 



article, but under all circumstances must be 
sufficient to prevent the substance from burn- 
ing before the whole of the oil has passed 
over. To prevent the risk of burning, it has 
been recommended to suspend the suljstance 
to be distilled in a basket, or a bag of wire- 
work, in the water, so as not to touch the bot- 
tom or sides of the alembic ; or to place the 
substance on a perforated shelf in the upper 
part of the alembic above the surface of the 
water. Some substances, such as mustard, 
bitter almonds, &c., which are mixed to a 
paste with water, are distilled by the action 
of a current of steam heated to the necessary 
degree and admitted into the bottom of the 
alembic. An excess above what is necessary 
acts injuriously by holding some of the oil in 
solution after the mixed vapors are condensed ; 
on the other hand, if too small a quantity be 
employed, besides the danger of burning, the 
whole'^of the oil will not be distilled. Dried 
plants require more water than the fresh and 
succulent. 

The form of the alembic has an influence 
over the quantity of water distilled, which de- 
pends more upon the extent of surface than 
the amount of liquid ; by employing a high 
and narrow vessel the disadvantage of an ex- 
cess of water is much obviated. 

The temperatm-e should be equable, and 
regulated so as not to exceed the required de- 
gree of heat; and, as some oils are more 
volatile thaa others, an appropriate tempera- 
ture must be obtained and sustained ; the use 
of a higher temperatm-e than is necessary be- 
ing injurious. Any degree of heat can be 
steadily applied by the use of a bath, either of 
water or of some solution (weaker or stronger 
as required) of which the boiling point is 
known. {See No. 7.) 

The more volatile oils pass freely with the 
steam into the neck of the receiver, but some 
that are less volatile are apt to condense in 
the head, and return into the body of the 
still; for these a still should be employed 
with a large and low head, having a rim or 
gutter inside, in which the oil maybe received 
as it condenses, and thence led into the neck 
of the condensing tube {see No. 1077), which 
is better straight than coiled, for convenience 
in cleaning, as the alembic and all its appur- 
tenances must be perfectly clean before distill- 
ing each kind of essential oil. 

Certain flowers, such as orange flowers and 
roses, yield little or no oil when dry, and 
must be preserved fresh, either with salt, or 
by means of glycerine, to keep them in condi- 
tion for distilling their oils. {See No. 1349.) 

The most of the aromatic herbs are usually 
distilled while fresh, although it is thought by 
some that they yield a larger product when 
moderately dried. Dried substances require, 
previous to distillation, to be thoroughly 
macerated with water ; and to facilitate this 
end, should be prepared by slicing, rasping, 
bruising, or other appropriate means. Some- 
times the proportion of oil in the substance 
employed is so small that it is wholly dis- 
solved in the water distilled, even though the 
smallest necessary quantity of water has 
been employed in the alembic. In this case 
the distilled solution must be redistilled 
several times with fresh quantities of the 
substance, until more oil passes over than the 



water will dissolve. This process is called 
coliolmtion. 

1467. Millon's Method of Obtaining 

Essential Oils. The flowers are placed in 
a percolating apparatus {see No. 41) and then 
ether or sulphide of carbon is poured over 
them. After leaving the flowers in contact 
for 15 minutes the liquid is dra^^n ofi" and 
a fresh supply added and drawn ofi" in a 
similar manner. This completely dissolves 
all the essential oil of the flowers, leaving 
them quite scentless. The liquid is next dis- 
tilled, and the ether or sulphide of carbon, be- 
ing volatile at a much lower temperature than 
the fragrant principle, is drawn over alone, 
and leaves a residue containing all the per- 
fume of the flower. This residue, more or 
less solid, is exposed to the heat of the sun 
until it loses the unpleasant smell of the 
solvent used, ^o degree of natm-al heat is 
capable of altering the perfume or turning it 
rancid. The product has a much finer odor 
than essential oil prepared by any other 
system. 

1468. Cognac Oil. Oil of cognac is 
prepared by dissolving the fusel oil of brandy 
marc in strong rectified spirit, and then adding 
a sufficient quantity of concentrated sulphuric 
acid to foi-m a sulphate ; alcohol and excess 
of acid are removed by washing the newly 
formed compound with water. To 100 pounds 
marc add i pound sulphuric acid ; the oil is 
generally formed towards the end of the dis- 
tillation, and is found floating in blackish drops 
on the surface of the distillate. According 
to a distinguished French chemist, this oil is 
a compound of potato oil and oenanthic ether. 

1469. Oil of Apple. Mix cautiously 1 
part fusel oil, 3 parts sulphuric acid, and 2 
parts water. Dissolve 2^ parts bichromate of 
potash in 4^ parts water, introduce this into 
a large tubulated retort, and gradually add the 
former liquid, so that the boiling continues very 
slowly. The distillate, which is principally 
valerianic acid, is saturated with carbonate of 
soda, and evaporated to dryness. Take of 
the valerianate of soda, thus formed, 1 k parts ; 
fusel oil, 1 part ; sulphuric acid, 1 part ; mix 
cautiously, heat by a water-bath, and mix 
with water; the impure valerianate of amy- 
loxide will separate. It is washed several 
times with water, then with a solution of car- 
bonate of soda, and finally with water. This 
is dissolved in from C to 8 parts of water. 

1470. Oil of Jargonelle Pear. This is 
made from the heavy fusel oil which comes 
over last in distillation. To purify the fusel 
oil, wash it with soda and water, and distill 
between 254'=^ and 284° Fahr. Of this take 1 
pound ; glacial acetic acid, 1 pound ; sulphuric 
acid, I pound. Digest for somehq^irs at 254°. 
The ether separates upon the addition of wa- 
ter, and is purified by washing with soda and 
water. Mixed with ^o P^i't acetic ether, and 
7 parts of deodorized alcohol, it gives the es- 
sence of pears. 

1471. Oil of duince — Pelargonic 
Ether — is made from oil of rue by treating 
it with double its volume of dilute nitric acid, 
heating the mixture until it begins to boil. 
After some time two layers are seen. The 
lower one is separated with a pipette, and 
freed from nitric acid by evaporation in a 
chloride of zinc bath; it is then filtered. 



ESSEXTIAL OILS. 



151 



mixed ^vith deodorized alcohol, aud digested 
at a gentle heat until the fruity odor is noticed. 
This ether seems identical with the ethereal 
oil of wine, which gives the bouquet. It is 
sometimes sold as oil of cognac. 

1472. To Restore the Fragrance of 
Oil of Lemon. There are several oils that, 
by absorption of oxygen from the air, will be- 
come camphorated, grow turbid, deposit a 
residue, generally called stearopten, and lose 
more or less of their flavor, instead of which 
they acquire the odor of turpentine. Those 
oils that are free from oxygen are chiefly sub- 
ject to these changes, and it is therefore 
necessary to keep them in full bottles, well 
stoppered, and in a cool place. When they have 
deteriorated in the way indicated, they may be 
improved, but can never be restored to their 
original quahty. Many means have been 
proposed for this purpose, but the one now 
generally employed in France is to shake the 
oil with warm water several times, letting it 
settle, and drawing it off by means of a 
syphon; it may lastly be filtered either through 
paper or linen. 

1473. To Keep Oil of Lemon Fra- 
grant. To every pound of oil, 1 ounce alco- 
hol is to be added aud well mixed; then 1 
ounce water is put with it, which again with- 
draws the alcohol from the oil, and collects 
at the bottom of the bottle as dilute alcohol, 
where it should be permitted to remain until 
the oil has been used, with, perhaps, an occa- 
sional shake-up when the bottle has been 
opened. Oil of lemon treated in this manner 
has been kept fresh and fragrant for over a 
year. Oil of orange may be treated in the 
same manner with excellent effect. 

1474. To Purify Essential Oils that 
have Deteriorated from Age. The method 
most commonly pm'sued is by redistillation, 
mixing them first with water, and sometimes 
with alkah. There are, however, other pro- 
cesses that have been recommended, which 
are believed to be equally as efficacious, and 
at the same time more simple. M. Curieux 
proposes to submit them to the action of a 
solution of borax with animal black. The 
solution of borax is mixed with the animal 
charcoal to form a thin consistency ; the oil 
is then added and agitated for a quarter of an 
hour. At the end of that time the borax 
mixtm*e is found adhering to the sides of the 
bottle, while the oil flows limpid. The oil of 
lavender, neroH, and peppermint, M. Cmieux 
had restored or purified in this manner. Mr. 
Charles Bullock, of Philadelphia, has found 
that permanganate of potash is admu'ably 
adapted to the purpose of the restoration of 
resinified essential oils. A large can of oil of 
lemon having become unsaleable, he agitated 
a solution of the potash with the oil for a 
length of time, then decanted, mixed with 
fresh water, and warmed gently, till the oil 
floated perfectly clear on the surface. The 
solution of the permanganate was in the pro- 
portion of 1 ounce of the salt to 8 ounce* of 
water. This qnantity was enough for 4 pounds 
of the oil. 

1475. To Detect the Presence of 
Fatty Oil and Resins in Essential Oils. 
The presence of fatty oil, resin, or spermaceti, 
may be readily detected by placing a single 
drop of the suspected oil on a piece of white 



paper, and exposing it for a short time to 
heat. If the oil under examination be pure, 
it will entu-ely evaporate ; but if it be adul- 
terated with one of these substances, a greasy 
or translucent spot will be left on the paper 
These substances also remain undissolved 
when the oil is agitated with three or foui 
times its volume of strong rectified spirit. 

1476. To Detect the Presence of Al- 
cohol in Essential Oils. The presence of 
alcohol or rectified spirit may be detected by 
agitation with the oil a few small fi.-agments 
of dried chloride of calcium. These will re- 
main unaltered if the oil be pure, but will 
dissolve in one containing alcohol, and the re- 
sulting solution wiU form a distinct stratum 
at the bottom of the vessel. The milkiness 
and loss of volume, when such an oU is agi- 
tated with a little water, is another test of the 
presence of spirit. A more delicate test of 
the presence of alcohol in an essential oil 
than the preceding, is effected by potassium. 
Place 12 drops of the oil on a perfectly dry 
watch-glass, and put a piece of potassium, 
the size of an ordinary pin's head, in the mid- 
dle of it. If the potassium remains unchanged 
for 12 or 15 minutes, no alcohol is present ; 
but if it disappears after 5 minutes, the oil 
contains at least 4 per cent, of alcohol ; if it 
disappears in less than 1 minute, it proves the 
presence of not less than 25 per cent, of alco- 
hol. This species of adulteration is very com- 
mon. It is a very general practice of the 
druggists to add strong rectified spirit to 
their essential oils, to render them transparent, 
especially in cold weather. Oil of cassia and 
oil of cinnamon are nearly always so treated 
by them. 
' 1477. To Detect the Admixture of 
one Essential Oil with Another. The 
admixture of an inferior essential oil with an- 
other more costly, is readily detected by a 
connoisseur or expert, by placing a drop or 
two on a piece of clean blotting-paper, shak- 
ing it ill the air, and smelling it occasionally. 
The difference of the odor at the beginning 
and towards the end of the evaporation will 
show the adulteration, especially if the adul- 
terant be oil of turpentine. This last may also 
be detected by remaining undissolved when 
the oil is agitated with about thrice its volume 
of strong rectified spirit. Highly rectified oil 
of turpentine is very largely used to adulter- 
ate the stronger scented essential oils. For- 
eign oil of lavender and oil of peppermint, for 
example, are usually compounds of 1 ounce 
of the genuine oil with 9 ounces of oil of 
turpentine. Even American and EngHsh oil 
of peppeiTuint are adulteratecl with ^ part rec- 
tified spirit, besides a considerable quantity of 
oil of spearmint, and often turpentine. 

1478. To Detect the Adulteration 
of a Heavy Oil with a Light One. The 
adulteration of a heavy oil with a light one 
may be detected by agitating the suspected 
sample with water, when, in general, the two 
will separate and form distinct layers. 

1479. To Test the Purity of Essen- 
tial Oil of Almonds. Essential oil of 
almonds is very generally adulterated with 
cheaper oils, particularly nitrobenzole (arti- 
ficial oil of bitter almonds), and in nearly 
every case with alcohol or rectified spirit. 
The pure oil, when mixed with oil of vitriol^ 



152 



FIXED OILS AND FATS. 



turns of a clear crimson-red color, without 
visible decomposition : — mixed with alcoholic 
solution of potassa, crystals are eliminated : — 
iodine dissolves only partially and slowly in 
it, without ftirther visible results: — cliromate 
of potassa does not affect it: — nitric acid oi 
the specific gravity 1.42 causes no immediate 
reaction, but crystals of benzoic acid begin to 
form in 3 or 4 days ; if only 7 or 8 per cent, 
of alcohol be present, violent effervescence 
speedily commences, and colored nitrous 
fumes are evolved, isitric acid of specific 
gravity 1.5 produces the same effects in a 
marked degi'ee, even when the smallest quan- 
tity only of alcohol is present. The specific 
gravity of the pure oil, when recent, is 
never less than 1.052; and when old, never 
greater than 1.081 ; that of trade averages 
about 1.075. Xitrobenzole has the specific 
gravity 1.209, and its boiling point is 415° 
Pahr., or fully 100° higher than that of es- 
sential oil of almonds. 

1480. To Test the Purity of Oil of 
Bergamot. Oil of bergamot is very fre- 
quently adulterated with rectified spirit, or 
with the oil of lemon, orange peel, and tur- 
pentine. These may be detected in the way 
previously noticed. {See JSo. 1476, ^-c.) The 
presence of the foreign oils, particularly the 
last, lessens its solubility in rectified spirit. 
The pure oil is freely soluble in liquor of 
potassa, forming a clear solution. Its specific 
gravity is .875 to .885. 

1481. To Test the Purity of Oil of 
Cinnamon. The common adulterants are 
highly rectified spirit and oil of cassia. "WTien 
pore, its specific gravity is 1.035. Oil of 
cassia, of which the specific gravity is 1.071 
to 1.073, and when old, even 1.078 to 1.090, 
increases it; but before trying it, it must be 
tested for spirit, which has a contrary efi'ect. 

1482. To Test the Purity of Oil of 
iJavender. Alcohol is here also the common 
adulterant. The finest quahty — that from the 
flowers, has specific gravity .877 to .905. The 
lightest is esteemed the best. Santaline is 
insoluble, or very nearly so, in the pure oil, 
but is freely soluble in that adulterated with 
alcohol. The presence of oil of tm-pentine, 
and other inferior oils, may be detected by 
the blotting-paper test, noticed above. {See 
No. 1475. 

1483. To Test the Purity of Oil of 
Neroli. This is the oil of orange flowers, 
and is commonly adulterated with alcohol, or 
with the oil of orange leaf (essence de petit- 
grain), and generally with both. The presence 
of the first is easily determined {see No. 1476) ; 
that of the second only by comparing the odor 
of a drop of the suspected oil, placed on a 
piece of paper, with a drop of pure neroli 
similarly treated. 

1484. To Test the Purity of Otto of 
Roses. Cooley says : " The common adult- 
erants are the oils of rhodium, sandal wood, 
and geranium, with camphor, and occasionally 
with spermaceti, to give the spurious article 
the usual crystallme appearance. Pure 
otto has a bland, sweet taste ; if it be bitter, 
it contains oil of rhodium or sandal wood ; if 
it be pungent or bite the palate, it contains 
either oil of geranium or camphor, and most 
probably both; if it imparts an unctuous 
sensation to the palate, or if it leaves a greasy 



stain on paper, it contains spermaceti. A single 
drop of pure otto of roses exposed for some 
hours under a bell-glass, ia the cold, to the va- 
por of a few grains of iodiae, remains white, 
and continues so on subsequent exposure to 
the air. A sample adulterated with foreign 
on, on the contrary, becomes yellow or yellow- 
ish-brown, and continues subsequently to dark- 
en, until it becomes of a deep brown color, or 
even perfectly black, according to the extent 
of the adulteration. A single drop of pure 
otto placed on a watch glass with one drop 
of concentrated sulphuric acid (oil of vitriol), 
and stirred with a glass rod, retains the purity 
of its color and odor ; but a sample adulterated 
with other oil becomes more or less brown, 
and evolves peculiar odors — that from oil oi 
geranium being strong and disagreeable ; that 
from oil of rhodium being increased and ren- 
dered unctuous and cubeb-like; that from 
camphor, characteristic and combined with 
acidity ; that from spermaceti, unctuous and 
clearly perceptible." Dr. K. Baur, of Constan- 
tinople, has had the opportunity of prepanng 
a standard, otto of rose on the spot, and was 
also in a position such as scarcely any other 
chemist ever was for investigating the whole 
subject. He says that pure otto gives, with 
iodine and with iodide of potassium and 
starch, the same reactions as when it is mixed 
with geranium oil, and even those with pure 
geranium oil are hardly different. He further 
says that many attempts have been made to 
discover some chemical reaction which would 
reveal the falsification of otto with geranium 
oil, but hitherto mostly in vain. 

1485. To Test the Purity of Oil of 
Cloves. Oil of cloves is frequently adulter- 
ated with inferior essential oils, but when 
pure it exhibits the following results :_ When 
shaken with pm*e liquor of ammonia, it coag- 
ulates, and crystallizes after fusion by a gentle 
heat : Treated with an alcoholic solution of 
potassa, it congeals into a crystalline mass, 
with total loss of its odor: A solution of 
cliromate of potassa converts it into brown 
flakes, whilst the salt loses its yellow color. 

1486. To Test the Purity of Oil of 
Rue. This oil is nearly always adulterated. 
TThen pure, it forms a clear solution with 
rectified spirit ; Iodine dissolves in it slowly, 
without apparent reaction beyond a darkening 
and a slight increase in viscidity: It is un- 
affected by a solution oi cliromate of potassa; 
Nitric acid very slowly changes it into a 
greenish yeRow liquid, balsam. 



Fixed Oils and Fats. These 
are compounds of carbon, hydrogen, 
and oxygen (hydrocarbons), obtained from 
the organic kingdom, and chiefly distinguished 
by their insipidity, unctuosity, insolubility in 
water, and being lighter than that fluid. 
Olive oil, obtained from the vegetable, and 
spermaceti oil, from the animal kingdom, may 
be taken as types of the rest. The fixed oils 
are chiefly found in the fruit and seeds of 
plants, and in thin membranous cells in 
various parts of the bodies of animals. Some 
of these oils are solid at ordinary temperatures: 
as palm oil, cocoanut oil, &q. ; but the majori 



r I X E J) OILS A XD FA T S 



153 



ty are flnid, except when considerably cooled, 
when they separate into two portions : the 
one solid, consisting mostly of stearine, and 
the other liquid, consisting chiefly of oleine. 
N"early all the fixed oils, when freely exposed 
to the air, absorb oxygen, and either gradually 
harden, or become rancid. The former are 
termed drying oils, and are used by painters ; 
the latter are nsed in cookery, for machinery, 
lamps, &c. The fixed oils, except where 
otherwise directed, are obtained from the 
bruised or ground fruit or seed, by means of 
powerful pressure, in screw or hydraulic 
presses, and are either allowed to clarify them- 
selves by subsidence, or are filtered. Another 
method is by boiling the bruised seed in wa- 
ter, and skimming off the oil as it rises to the 
surface. This is the plan adopted for castor 
oil in the "West Indies. The specific gravities 
of the fixed oils range between 0.865 and 
0.970. (Cooley.) 

1488. Davidson's Process of Deodor- 
izing Putrid Whale Oil. This cheap 
method of purification consists in the employ- 
ment of chloride of lime, the quantity depend- 
ing on the degree of putrefaction of the whale 
oil. In general 1 pound is sufiicient for 112 
pounds oil ; but if it is in a state of great 
putrefaction, there may be li or 2 pounds re- 
quired. "With 1 pound chloride of lime about 
12 times the quantity of water must be em- 
ployed. The chloride is bruised in a mortar, 
and the water added by degrees till it forms a 
soft and liquid paste, and afterwards by the 
addition of the remainder of the water it takes 
the consistency of cream. This is to be mixed 
with the oil and often carefully stirred. After 
some hours 1 pound sulphuric acid, diluted 
with 20 or 30 times its bulk of water, is poured 
on the mixture, and the whole brought to a 
boil over a moderate fire, and stirred con- 
tinually until drops of oil run ofi" at the end 
of the stirring pole. It is then left for some 
hours for the oil to precipitate, and the acidu- 
lated water is drawn ofi". A common cast-iron 
boiler, with sheets of lead at the bottom, is the 
best for the purpose, or a copper or iron vessel 
may be used when the quantity of acid is not 
too great. The chloride of lime must not be 
bruised in a copper or iron mortar. 

1489. To Restore Rancid Oil and 
Fao. Eancid oil and fat may be recovered by 
agitating them, at a gentle heat, with fresh- 
burnt and coarsely-powdered charcoal (which 
has been thoroughly freed from dust by sift- 
ing and fanning), followed by filtration 
through flannel; or by simple filtration 
through charcoal in bags of Canton flannel, 
according to the common method. 

1490. To Restore Rancid Fat or Oil. 
Another method is to thoroughly wash them 
with hot water, frequently renewed, or to 
blow steam through them, until the desired 
effect be produced. Air freely employed for 
some time, instead of steam, succeeds ad- 
mirably with many oils, and its use has the 
advantage of not introducing moisture into 
the article. Another method is to boil oil or 
fat, for 15 to 30 minutes, with a little water 
and calcined magnesia. 

1491. To Prevent Oils and Fats from 
Becoming Rancid. The tendency of oils 
and fats to become rancid may be prevented, 
or greatly retarded, by artificial ?neans. One 



of the simplest methods is to dissolve about 
2 per cent, of gum-benzoin (in fine powder), 
or about one per cent, benzoic acid, in the 
oil or fat, by the aid of a gentle heat. This 
addition renders oils, pomades, ointments, &e., 
peculiarly soothing to an irritable or highly 
sensitive skin. It should be done before the 
addition of the scents. "When the prepara- 
tions are intended for exportation to hot cli- 
mates, the percentage of the gum or acid 
should be somewhat increased. This is the 
plan generally adopted by the manufacturing 
perfumers and druggists. In the wholesale 
trade, carefully rendered lard, suet, &c. ; sim- 
ple pomades and oils, so prepared, are now 
common articles of stock and sale. 

1492. An Excellent Preventive of 
Rancidity in Oils, &c. Nitric ether, or its 
alcoholic solution (sweet spirits of nitre), is 
highly recommended as a most effective pre- 
ventive of rancidity. It is said that a few 
drops of the ether will effect this object, and 
will even remove the disagreeable odor of 
rancidity when present. Oil so treated, after 
being heated to remove the alcohol, when the 
solution has been used, is quite bright, clear, 
and scentless, if it were originally so. Pop- 
lar-buds, crushed and digested at a gentle 
heat, in oil or fat, will also remove, or greatly 
retard, its tendency to become rancid. Fatty 
bodies in a globular state may be kept a long 
time without becoming rancid. This pecu- 
liar state can be imparted to fatty matters by 
melting them at 130° Fahr. and adding a 
small quantity of yolk of egg, or bile, or al- 
buminous sulDstances, or be'st, a solution of 
alkali (composed of 5 to 10 parts for every 
100 of oil), at the same temperature. The 
whole is then agitated for some time to bring 
the fattv matter into a globular condition. 

1493. To Prevent Fats and Oils from 
Becoming Rancid. Heat the oil or melted 
fat for a few minutes with powdered slippery- 
elm bark, in the proportion of 1 drachm of 
the powder to one pound of fat. The bark 
shrinks and gradually subsides, after which 
the fat is poured off. It communicates an 
odor like that of the hickory-nut. Butter 
thus treated has been kept unchanged for a 
year. 

1494. To Purify Vegetable Oil for 
Use in Lamps. To 100 pounds oil add 25 
ounces alum, dissolved in 9 pounds of boiling 
water. After stirring it about half an hour, 
add 15 ounces nitric acid, still continuing to 
stir it. Let it stand 48 hours, when the fine 
oil will swim on the surface, and then draw it 
off. Such oil is used all over Continental 
Europe, and an equal quantity yields double 
the light of whale and fish-oil, without its 
offensive odor 

1495. Bancroft's Process for Refining 
Lubricating Oils. Mr. Bancroft's process 
for refining common olive oil, lard oil, &c., 
for lubricatiug puri3oses, is to agitate them 
with from 3^ to 8 per cent, caustic soda lye, 
of 1.2 specific gravity. If, on trial of a small 
quantity, the lye be found to settle clear at 
the bottom, enough has been added. The 
oil is allowed to rest for 24 hours, for the 
soapy matter to subside ; the supernatant oil 
is then filtered. (See Xo. 1551.) Another 
plan of purifying oils is to agitate them with 
a strong solution of common salt. 



154: 



FIXED OILS AND FATS. 



1496. Calvert's Tests for the Purity 
of Oils. In the use of the following tests, 
the resnlt of a series of experiments by Mr. 
F. Gr. Calvert, he recommends especial care 
in the preparation of the reagents used for 
testing, nut only as regards their exact 
strength and purity, but also in following 
strictly the prescribed method of using them, 
carefully noting the time required for their 
action and effects to become apparent. 

1497. Calvert's Caustic Soda Test 
for Oils. A solution of caustic soda, specific 
gravity 1.340, is useful to distinguish fish 
from other animal and vegetable oils, owing 
to the distinct red cc»lor which the fish oil 
assumes ; the presence of 1 per cent, of fish oil 
will be detected by the test. Add one vol- 
ume of the test to 5 volumes of the oil, well 
mixed, and heated to the boiling point. 
Hempseed oil acquires a brown-yellow color, 
and becomes so thick as to entirely lose its 
fluidity. Linseed oil assumes a much bright- 
er yellow color, and remains fluid. India 
nut oil, gallipoli oil, and pale rape oils, be- 
come a solid white mass in 5 minutes, while 
the other oils remain fluid. 

1498. Calvert's Sulphuric Acid Tests 
for Oils. I. Sulphuric acid of specific grav- 
ity 1.475 will detect oils adulterated with 
hempseed and linseed oils to the amount of 
10 per cent. Fish oil may be detected to the 
amount of 1 per cent, by the red color it as- 
sumes, thi.i being noticed more particularly 
when the fish oil is allowed to separate by 
standing. To apply the test agitate 1 vol- 
ume with 5 volumes of the oil, and allow the 
mixture to stand for fifteen minutes. 

II. For the detection of hemp, linseed, 
fish, gallipoli, and French nut oils, 1 volume 
of sulphuric acid of specific gravity 1.530, 
agitated with 5 volumes of oil, and the mix- 
ture allowed to stand for 5 minutes. Under 
this test the above mentioned oils alone as- 
sume a decided coloration. 

III. Sulphuric acid of specific gravity 
1.635, used similar to the preceding, and the 
effects noted after standing 2 minutes, affords 
a test under which the colorations are dis- 
tinct and well marked, and will detect 10 per 
cent, of rapeseed oil in olive oil, of lard oil in 
lioppy oil, of French nut oil in olive oil, and 
of fish oil in neat s foot oil. 

A stronger acid than this carbonizes the oils 
and destroys the coloration. 

1499. Calvert's Nitric Acid Tests for 
Oils. The successive application of nitric 
acid of specific gravity 1.330, and of a solu- 
tion of caustic soda of specific gravity 1.340, 
can be successfully applied to detect the fol- 
lowing very frequent cases of adulteration : 

I. Gallipoli oil with fish oils ; the former 
assumes no distinct color with the acid, and 
gives with soda a mass of fibrous consistency, 
while fish oils are colored red, and become 
mucilaginous with the alkali. 

II. Castor oil with poppy oil ; the former, 
if adulterated, acquires a reddish tinge, and 
the mass with the alkali loses much of its 
fibrous appearance. 

III. Rapeseed oil with French nut oil; 
under the nitric acid test the former, if adul- 
terated, assumes a reddish tinge, more or less 
intense, which alkali increases, and renders 
the semi-saponified mass more fibrous. 



1500. To Test the Purity of Olive 

Oil. Cooley says : When pure olive oil is 
shaken in a phial only half filled, the bead 
or bubbles formed very rapidly disappear, 
but with the adulterated oil they remain 
niuch longer before they burst. If olive 
oil contains ^ part of poppy oil, part of 
it remains liquid at 36^ Fahr., its prop- 
er freezing temperature; and if it con- 
tains ^ of poppy oil, it does not solidify at 
all, unless cooled much below the freezing 
point of water. Pure olive oil well agitated for 
some time with -^ of its volume of nitric solu- 
tion of mercury, becomes quite solid in 3 or 
4 hours, without any separation of liquid oil. 
(The mercurial solution is made by dissolving 
1 ounce mercury in 2 fluid ounces li drachms 
nitric acid specific gravity 1.500.) According 
to M. Boudet, 1 grain of hyponitrous acid 
(hyponitric?) mixed with 3 grains of nitric 
acid, will cause the perfect solidification of 
200 grains of pure olive oil in 75 to 78 min- 
utes. 

1501. To Test the Purity of Castor 
Oil. Castor oil is frequently adulterated 
with rape oil; but this maybe detected by 
its not dissolving in strong alcohol, and also 
by its less density. Pure castor oil is soluble 
in an equal weight of alcohol specific gravity 
0.820. 

1502. To Refine Olive Oil. Olive oil 
intended for huiles antiques {see No. 1244) 
and other like uses, is commonly refined by 
violently agitating it in glass or stoneware, 
with about 1 5 to 2 per cent, of its weight of 
concentrated sulphuric acid. This renders it 
opaque, and causes it to assume a greenish 
color. After about 2 weeks' repose, it depos- 
its much coloring matter, and is then found 
to have acquired greater fluidity, to have be- 
come much paler, to be more emollient and 
glossy as a lubricator, and to burn with great- 
er brilliancy. The clear portion is now de- 
canted, well washed with steam or hot water, 
and, after sufficient repose in a close vessel, 
at a temperature about 60" Fahr., again de- 
canted, and, if necessary, filtered through 
Canton flannel or bibuloas paper. This plan 
is also applied to other fixed oils, and an- 
swers well for most of the recently express- 
ed vegetable oils. 

1503. To Purify and Sweeten Castor 
Oil. The American Journal of Pharmacy 
gives the following receipt for this purpose : 
Take 1000 parts of the oil, 25 parts purified 
bone-black, 10 parts calcined magnesia. Mix 
them carefully in a convenient vessel of glass 
or tinned iron, and let it stand during 3 days, 
with occasional agitation, and filter through 
paper or felt. {See No. 1504). 

1504. To Bleach the Vegetable Oils. 
According to Cooley, almond, ben, castor, 
colza, linseed, nut, olive, poppy, rape, teel, 
and other like vegetable oils, are readily 
bleached by exposure, in glass bottles, to the 
light. For this purpose, 2-quart to 4-quart 
pale green glass or blue glass bottles filled 
with the oil, and covered with white gallipots 
inverted over them, are suitably placed, a 
small distance apart, on the roofs of houses 
or sheds, or in any other suitable position, 
fuUy exposed to the sun during the greater 
portion of the day, or at all events to the 
south-east and south. 14 to 21 days' exposure 



FIXED OILS AND FATS. 



155 



to the sun, in clear weather, during summer, 
is usually sufficient to decolor castor oil and 
almond oil ; but 4, 5, or even 6 weeks, is com- 
monly required to render linseed oil very pale. 
This is the common plan adopted by the 
wholesale druggists to whiten their castor oil, 
by some of the perfumers for their almond oil 
and oHve oil, and by the oilmen for their pale 
linseed oil for artists. A better plan, however, 
when this method is adopted, is to cork the 
bottles loosely air-tight, but not firmly down, 
when the sun has been on them two or three 
hours, and whilst they are still heated with it. 
In this way the oil suffers less from the ex- 
posure than by the loose galHpot system in 
common use. Almond, oUve, and the other 
sweet oils, thus treated, are apt to lose some 
of their blandness, and to acquire a slight 
sulphurous smell, and smoky flavor, whilst 
castor oil loses its original blandness, and as- 
sumes the strong, nauseous flavor characteris- 
tic of the white castor oil of the stores. These 
qualities may be removed by agitation with a 
little fresh animal charcoal, dry freshly pre- 
pared alumina, or calcined magnesia, and sub- 
sequent filtration; or, what is even better, 
though more troublesome, by well washing 
the oil with hot water, and subsequent repose 
out of contact with the air, and subsequent 
decantation. {See No. 1503.) 

1505. To Bleach. Vegetable Oils. 
Another method pursued for bleaching oils is 
as follows : The oil is placed in a porcelain, 
stoneware, or well-tinned vessel, along with 
some dry filtering powder, 1 to 2 pounds to 
each gallon of the oil, or some dry and re- 
cently prepared hydrated alumina (^ to -^ 
pound per gallon of oil; but much less is 
often sufficient if the article be of proper 
quality) ; and the heat of steam or boiling 
water being apphed, is vigorously stirred, 
with a clean wooden or stoneware spatula, 
for about an hour. It is then thrown into a 
Canton flannel oil-bag, and filtered, in the 
usual manner, observing to return the run- 
nings until they become quite white and clear. 
This is the way perfumers and wholesale 
druggists usually prepare their white almond 
oil, ivhite olive oil, and ivhite oil of hen. For- 
merly fresh burnt animal charcoal was chiefly 
used for the purpose, and is still so employed 
by some houses ; but the other substances 
answer better and are more convenient. 
(Cooley.) 

1 506. To Bleach Vegetable Oils. The 
oils referred to in ;No. 1504, as well as all other 
oils and fats, may be rendered perfectly color- 
less by agitating them with a~ little chromic 
acid; or, what is cheaper and more convenient, 
with a mixed solution of bichromate of po- 
tassa and sufficient sulphuric acid to seize on 
the alkali of the bichromate and to liberate 
its chromic acid. 1 to 2 drachms of the bi- 
chromate, mixed with 3 times its weight of oil 
of vitriol (previously diluted with about twice 
its volume of water, and allowed to cool), is 
ordinarily sufficient, when skillfully used, to 
perfectly bleach 2 or 3 pints of oil. It should 
be added gradually to the oil, with continued 
violent agitation, and this should be kept up 
for some considerable time after the last por- 
tion is added. The mixture must be made in 
a vessel of glass, porcelain, stoneware, or 
wood, and nothing metallic must touch it. 



In some cases a few drops of strong nitric 
acid (diluted with about twice its bulk of 
water), if added towards the end of the agi- 
tation, will facilitate the process; or, with 
colza, linseed, nut, and rape oil, instead of 
the diluted nitric acid, a few drops of hydro- 
chloric acid without dilution. After the final 
agitation, the oil must be allowed to repose at 
a temperature of about 60° Fab^-. When it 
has settled, the clear portion should be de- 
canted, thoroughly washed with hot water, 
again allowed to repose for some time, and 
then finally decanted for use. If necessary, 
it may lastlv be filtered. {Cooley.) 

1507. Berlandt's Method of Bleach- 
ing Fixed Oils. Shake strongly for some 
minutes, 300 parts of the oil with 40 parts 
water containing 1 part permanganate of 
potassa; allow the mixture to stand in a warm 
place for some hours, and then filter. This 
renders the oil colorless. 

1508. Dieterich's Method of Bleach- 
ing Fixed Oils. Dissolve 2| pounds (avoir- 
dupois) permanganate of potassa in 31 4 quarts 
water, in a wooden tub having a faucet in 
its bottom. Stir into the mixture 52 1 quarts 
of the oil to be bleached, and keep all well 
stirred for 2 days. Then add 21 quarts boil- 
ing water and 11 pounds commercial hydro- 
chloric acid, and keep the whole stirred for 2 
days longer. Draw off the acid water, and 
wash the oil repeatedly with boiling water 
until all acid is removed from it. 

1509. Engelhardt's Method of Bleach- 
ing Pahn Oil. Heat 1000 parts by weight 
palm oil m an iron vessel to about 143° Fahr., 
and let it stand all night, sustaining the tem- 
perature. iS'ext day pour it off into a clean 
vessel and let it cool down to about 100°. 
Meanwhile, dissolve 15 parts bichromate of 
potash in 45 parts boiling water ; when the 
solution has cooled a little, pour into it 60 
parts hydrochloric acid. Add this mixture to 
the palm oil, stirring quickly, and m about 5 
minutes it will assume a sombre green color; 
by continued stirring the oil gradually clari- 
fies and becomes quite limpid. It should 
become quite white after washing it with 
warm water ; but if not entirely colorless, the 
operation must be repeated, using ^ part 
bichromate of potash, and 1 part hydrochlone 
acid. This is a quick method, and Engelhardt 
claims that it produces better results than the 
means usuallv employed. {See No. 537.) 

1510. To Bleach Cotton Seed Oil. 
Use 1 gallon Enghsh caustic soda, in a solu- 
tion of about 40° Baume, to about 20 gallons 
crude oil. TUe oil, previous to being mixed 
with the solution, must be heated to about 
90° Fahr. Stir constantly while adding the 
cold solution. If the oil is not now sufficiently 
light, add more of the solution to bring it to 
a fight yellow or straw color. 

1511. Key er's Process for Purifying 
Oils. The process of M. Keyer, which is 
applicable to all oils, has given excellent re- 
sults in a manufactory of rape seed oil. Into 
1000 parts by weight of oil, put a mixture of 
6 parts solution of ammonia and 6 parts wa- 
ter, and agitate the barrel well until the alkali 
is perfectly mixed, which may be done in 15 
minutes. The barrel is then sealed hermeti- 
cally, and, after 3 days' repose, the oil is 
decanted and filtered. The residue is used 



156 



FIXED OILS AND FATS, 



for the manufacture of soap. Oil thus worked 
contains no trace of acid, and the mucilag- 
inous impurities are destroyed or precipitated. 

1512. Liebig-'s Method of Obtaining 
Non-poisonous Oil of Almonds. Agitate 
the crude distiUed oil with binoxide of mer- 
cury in slight excess ; and, after a few days' 
contact, rectify the oil from a little fresh bin- 
oxide of mercury. The product is quite pure, 
if properly managed, as the hydrocyanic acid 
(the poisonous principle) of the oil, unites 
with the binoxide to form a bicyanide of 
mercury. 

1513. Neat's-foot or Trotter Oil. 
Obtained by boiling neat's-foot, tripe, etc., 
in water. It is a coarse animal oil, very 
emollient, and much used to soften leather. 

1514. To Refine Neat's-foot on. Put 
a quart of the oil with 5 pound bright lead 
shavings, and 5 pound quicklime pounded, 
into a glass bottle, let it stand in the sun and 
light for 2 or 3 weeks, then put the oil and 
lime into a saucepan with 5 pound washing 
soda, boil gently 15 minutes, then set in the 
coldest place possible till the next day, when 
it will be found congealed; place it into a 
filter of white blotting paper, place a clean 
glass bottle under the filter, and you will get 
the finest oil, suitable for the most delicate 
machinery. Any one requiring a little nice 
oil would do well to try this in preference to 
buying it ready done. It must be kept per- 
fectly cold while filtering, or the soda will go 
through. 

1515. Hirzel's Method of Preserving 
Animal Fats. Mix 14 pounds of recently 
melted fat with 5 drachms salt and 15 grains 
alum in fine powder; heat until a scum is 
formed on the surface ; remove the scum, and 
when the clear fat is cool, wash and knead it 
in water, frequently changing the water, so 
as to remove all the salt ; then evaporate the 
water at a heat insufficient to injure the fat. 

1516. To Preserve Animal Fats for 
a Long Time. The following mode of ben- 
zoating all kinds of animal fats will be 
found the most effectual for preserving them 
for a long time. Make a saturated solu- 
tion of gum benzoin in alcohol by simple 
heat, allow the liquid to settle clear, then 
strain and mix with equal parts of fresh castor 
oil. Of this mixture add 4 ounces to each 
gallon of fat or ointment while warm. The 
proportion of the solution of benzoin may be 
increased for pomades, as it forms, by its aro- 
matic odor, an excellent basis for perfumes. 
The benzoatic fat should not be kept in tin, 
but m well-covered jars. Steam-rendered 
lard, or that treated with salt and alum, 
should be carefully re-melted in a water- bath, 
to allow ail the water to settle so as to pour 
off" the pure fat. In preparing ointment and 
pomades it is important that the wax should 
be first melted, and the oil or fat warmed 
before adding to the wax. This precaution, 
which will save much time and trouble, is 
often neglected by young beginners, {See 
Nos. I2b3 and 1254,) 

1517. BoiUot^s Process for Purify- 
ing Fats. Melt 2^ pounds avoirdupois of 
the fat with 2 quarts lime-water; stir act- 
ively over the fire for 2 or 3 hours, and cool. 
Then press in flannel and allow it to stand a 
day or two to harden. By melting it with 



acidulated water to remove the excess oi 
lime, a hard fat results, suitable for makinj^ 
candles. 

1518. Hog's Lard. This is obtained, 
like the rest of the animal fats, from the raw 
lard, by chopping it fine, or rather rolling it 
out, to break the cells in which the fat is 
lodged, and then melting the fat in a water- 
bath, or other gentle heat, and straining it 
while warm. Some boil them in water ; but 
the fats thus obtained are apt to grow rank 
much sooner than when melted by themselves. 
{See No. 525,) 

1519. To Try out Lard. This should 
be done in the open air. Set a large kettle 
over a fire, in some sheltered place, on a still 
day. It will cook much quicker in large 
quantities. Put into the kettle while the lard 
is cold, a little saleratus, say 1 table-spoonful 
to every 20 pounds; stir almost constantly 
when nearly done till the scraps are brown 
and crisp, or until the steam ceases to rise ; 
then there is no danger of its moulding; 
strain out into pans, and the first wiU be 
ready to empty into crocks when the last is 
strained, 

1520. To Detect Water in Lard. 
The presence of water is very easily detected 
by merely melting the lard, when the water 
collects at the bottom of the vessel as a dis- 
tinct layer. The weight and volume of lard 
can be greatly increased by the incorporation 
of water with it ; and purchasers of a pound 
of lard will frequently find that they have 
paid the price of the lard for as much as 4 
ounces of water. Lard is also adulterated 
with from 2 to 5 per cent, of milk of lime 
(slacked lime mixed to a milky consistence 
with water) ; this gives the lard a beautifully 
white appearance, and also allows of 25 per 
cent, of water being stirred into it while 
cooling. 

1521. Benzoated Lard. Take benzoin 
in coarse powder, 1 ounce; fresh lard, 1 
pound. Heat together for 2 or 3 hours in a 
water-bath, and then strain. 

1522. To Bleach Lard. Lard may be 
bleached by applying a mixture of bichromate 
of potassa and muriatic acid, in minute pro* 
portions, to the fat. {See Nos. 1509 and 1523, 
also No. 537,) 

1 523. To Bleach and Harden Tallow. 
In a copper boiler, put i gallon water, and 100 
pounds rendered tallow ; melt over a slow 
fire, and add, while stirring, 1 pound of oil of 
vitriol, previously diluted with 12 of water ; 
afterwards, k pound bichromate of potassa, in 
powder ; and lastly, 13 pints water, after 
which the fire is suffered to go down, when 
the tallow will collect on the surface of the 
dark green liquid, from which it is separated. 
It is then of a fine white, shghtly greenish 
color, and possesses a considerable degree of 
hardness, (^S'ee iS'o, 1509.) 

1524. Factitious or Imitation Sper- 
maceti. White spermaceti, 10 parts ; sonor- 
ous cake stearine, 20 parts ; potato starch, 
5 parts; mucilage, 1 part. Melt the first three 
and unite well, then let the mass cool to the 
consistence of dough ; turn it out on an oiled 
marble or lead slab, and roll it into a cake ; 
next sprinkle a little mucilage on it, double 
it, and roll again; repeat the process as often 
as required ; lastly allow it to cool. If it hsm- 



FETli OLEUM, u It CRUDE COAL OIL 



\ol 



been properly managed, it Tvill flake when 
broken up, and resemble spermaceti. 

1525. Extraction of Fat from Bones. 
A process has been adopted abroad for ex- 
tracting oil and fat from bones and other 
animal refuse, by digesting it in a closed and 
heated vessel with benzole or similar hydro- 
carb(m. After a few hours the liquid is drawn 
off, the hydrocarbon separated by distillation, 
and the oil is left ready for use. The bones 
may then be used for the manufacture of gela- 
tine. This is very similar to a method lately 
proposed of obtaining oil from oleaginous 
seeds, but in this latter case, as would proba- 
bly be preferable in the former, bisulphide of 
carbon is the menstruum employed. 



PetroleTim, or Crude Coal 
Oil. The name of petroleum is now 
applied to all the native liquid substances 
which have a bituminous character. It con- 
sists, therefore, of an inflammable and more 
or less volatile oily substance, ranging in color 
and appearance from a yellowish white, trans- 
parent fluid, to a brown or almost black, 
opaque viscid mass. The former used to be 
called naphtha, but this name is now given to 
any oil of this description, whether native, or 
distilled from a darker grade of petroleum. 
The latter is the form in which the bulk of the 
petroleum is found in America; and this, 
when exposed to the air, gradually passes into 
asplialtum, or solid bitumen. 

1527. To Purify Petroleum. Tank- 
shaped stills of a capacity of 500 to 2500 bar- 
rels are filled with crude oil, and heat applied 
by furnaces beneath them, causing vapors to 
arise, which are carried forward through pipes 
immersed in water, and condensed into a 
liquid, which runs out at the end of the pipe. 
The first product is gasoline, a very light 
hydrocarbon, marking^ as high as 83° and 
as low as 75° of Baume's coal oil hydrom- 
eter. The heat is then somewhat increased, 
and the next product obtained is called 
naphtha, henzine {not lenzole), which marks 
from 75° to 63° Baume; and, when com- 
bined, will average about 67°. The heat be- 
ing allowed to increase further, produces dis- 
tillate, or crude burning oil. This passes over 
until about 8 or 10 per cent, of the original 
quantity contained in the still remains, which 
is called residuum or tar, and may be redistilled 
for the purpose of obtaining paraffine and 
lubricating oil. Paraffine is a fatty material, 
resembling sperm in appearance. The distil- 
late or crude burning oil is converted into or- 
dinary kerosene by a process of purification. 
For this purpose it is placed in a tank, where 
it is violently agitated by forcing air through 
it, and while thus agitated, 1|- to 2 per cent, 
sulphuric acid is added, after which the agita- 
tion is continued 15 to 30 minutes. The oil is 
then allowed to settle, when the acid and im- 
purities are drawn from the bottom. The oil 
is then washed, first with water and then 
with caustic soda, by which means the re- j 
maining impurities are removed, and any acid 
remaining in the oil is neutralized. It is then 
taken to shallow bleaching tanks, where it is 
exposed to light and air^ and allowed to settle ; 



it is next heated by means of a coil of steam 
pipe running through it, to expel all gaseous 
vapors which will ignite at a temperature be 
low 110° Fahr. The oil is now called a Ji7-« 
test oil, and is ready to be barreled and sent 
to market. 

1528. To Clarify Coal Oil. Place in a 
close vessel 100 pounds crude coal oil, 25 
quarts water, 1 pound chloride of lime, 1 pound 
soda, and § pound oxide of manganese. The 
mixture is violently agitated, and allowed to 
rest for 24 hours, when the clear oil is decant- 
ed and distilled. The 100 pounds coal oil are 
to be mixed with 25 pounds resin oil ; this is 
one of the principal points in the manipula- 
tion ; it removes the gummy parts from the 
oil, and renders them inodorous. The distil- 
lation spoken of may terminate the process, or 
the oils may be distilled before they are de- 
fecated and precipitated. 

1529. To Decolorize Kerosene Oil. 
Kerosene oil is decolorized by stirring it up 
with 1 or 2 per cent, of oil of vitriol, which 
will carbonize the coloring matter, then with 
some milk of lime or some other caustic 
alkali, settling, and redistilling. The latter 
appears to be indispensable. 

1530. Why Kerosene or Coal Oils 
Explode, i^o oil is explosive in and of 
itself; it is only when the vapor arising there- 
from becomes mixed in the proper proportions 
with air, that it will explode. There should be 
no inflammable vapor from any oil used for 
burning in lamps at ordinary temperature. A 
volatile oil is unfit for the purpose of illumi- 
nation. 

1531. To Test Kerosene or Coal Oil. 
Burning oil is often adulterated with heavy 
oil, or with benzine. The adulteration with 
the former is shown by dimness of the flame 
after having bm*ned for some time, accom- 
panied by a charring of the wick. The latter 
may be readily detected by means of a ther- 
mometer, a little warm water, and a table- 
spoonful of the oil. Fill the cup with warm 
water, the temperature of which is to be 
brought to 110° Fahr. Pour the oil on the 
water; apply flame to the floating oil by 
match or otherwise. If the oil is unsafe it 
will take fire, and its use in the lamp is 
dangerous, for it is liable to explode. But if 
the oil is safe and good it will not take fire. 
All persons who sell kerosene that will not 
stand the fire test at 110° are liable to prose- 
cution. 

1532. To Extinguish the Flame of 
Petroleum or Benzine. "Water, unless in 
overwhelming quantity, will not extinguish 
the flame of petroleum or benzine. It may, 
however, bs speedily smothered by a woolen 
cloth or carpet, or a wet muslin or linen cloth, 
or earth or sand being thrown over it. These 
act by excluding the air, without which com- 
bustion cannot be maintained. 

1533. To Deodorize Benzine. Shake 
repeatedly with plumbate of soda (oxide of 
lead dissolved in caustic soda), and rectify. 
The following plan is said to be better : Shake 
repeatedly with fresh portions of metallic 
quicksilver ; let stand for 2 days, and rectify. 

1534. To Manage Kerosene Lamps. 
These are so much used that a few hints on 
their management will no doubt be accepta- 
ble. There are very few common illnmina- 



158 



L UBBIC ATOMS. 



ting substaucss tliat produce a light as "bril- 
Kant and steady as kerosene oil, bnt its full 
brilliancy is rarely attained, through want ot 
attention to certain requisite points in its 
management. By following the directions 
here given, the greatest amount of light will be 
obtained, combined Trith economy in the con- 
sumption of the oil. The wick, oil, lamp, and 
all its appurtenances, must be perfectly clean. 
The chimney must be not only clean, but clear 
and bright. The wick must be trimmed ex- 
actly square, across the wick -tube, and not 
over the curved top of the cupola used to 
spread the flame ; after trimming, raise the 
wick, and cut ofi" the extreme corners or 
points. A wick cannot be trimmed well with 
dull scissors ; the sharper the scissors, the bet- 
ter the shape of the flame. These hints, sim- 
ple as they appear, are greatly disregarded, 
and the consequenes is a flame dull, yellow, 
and apt to smoke. The burners made with 
an immovable cupv>la, and straight, cylindrical 
chimneys, require especial care in trimming ; 
the wick has to be raised above the cupola, 
and has therefore no support when being 
trimmed. A kerosene lamp, with the wick 
turned down, so as to make a small flame, 
should not be placed in a sleeping room at 
night. A wick made of felt is greatly supe- 
rior in every way to the common cotton wicks. 

1535. To Keep Kerosene Lamps 
from Getting Greasy. The upper part of 
a kerosene oil lamp, after standing for a short 
time, frequently gets oily, from the condensa- 
tion of the vapor of the oil. This will be 
greatly, if not entirely prevented, by taking 
a piece of felt and cutting a hole in it so as to 
fit exactly around the socket into which the 
burner is screwed ; trim the felt off so as to 
leave a rim about 5 inch wide, and place this 
felt ring on the socket. 

1536. To Cement the Socket on a 
Kerosene Lamp. The socket of a kerosene 
lamp, into which the burner is screwed, fre- 
quently becomes loose or comes off. To fas- 
ten this, take the socket off, pick out the old 
cement, and wash it with hot soap and wa- 
ter, with a little soda, to remove all trace of 
grease. Empty the lamp, and wash it in the 
same manner, especially the lip or neck which 
fits int()*the socket, i^ext take a cork which 
fits (not too tight) into the socket ; grease it 
slightly, and screw it into the socket (the 
??me way the burner is screwed in), until 
the end of the cork is nearly level with the 
bottom of the socket; this will leave a circu- 
lar trench to receive the cement. Take the 
best plaster of Paris, mix it quickly as thick 
as it will flow, fill the trench in the socket, 
reverse the lamp, and press the lip of the glass 
firmly into the socket until the edge of the 
socket fits closely to the glass. This opera- 
tion must be done quickly, before the plaster 
has had time to set. Let the whole remain 
about 12 hours in a warm place before using. 
Then unscrew the cork and scrape off any 
adhering plaster. {See No. 2260.) 

1 537. To Clean Vessels Used to Con- 
tain Kerosene. Wash the vessel with thin 
milk of lime, which forms an emulsion with 
the petroleum, and removes every trace of it, 
and by washing a second time with milk of 
lime and a very small quantity of chloride of 
lime, and allowing the liquid to remain in it 



about an horn*, and then using it with cold 
water, even the smell may be so completely 
removed as to render the vessel thus cleansed 
fit for keeping beer in. At the same time the 
external surface of the vessel is to be washed 
with a rag dipped in the same substance. If 
the milk of lime be used warm, instead of 
cold, the operation is rendered much shorter. 
If particles of thickened petroleum adhere to 
the glass after the first washing, these can be 
removed by washing with fine sand, or by 
other mechanical means, 

1538. To Clean Kerosene Lamps. 
AVash the lamp inside and out thoroughly 
with hot soap and water, and a little washing 
soda, TVhen clean, rinse repeatedly so as to 
leave no trace of soap ; let it drain till dry. 



LTlbricatorS. compounds to les- 
j sen the friction in machinery, and to 
prevent the bearings from rusting. Lubrica- 
tors must possess a certain amount of co- 
hesive and adhesive attraction. But they 
must also have the power to retain their 
cohesion and fluidity under the action of 
moderate heat, heavy pressure, and contact 
with metals and air. The oxygen of the air 
attacks many kinds of oils, rendering some 
acid and others resinous ; and moreover some 
oils of mineral extraction are contaminated 
with acids, used in their rectification, which at- 
tack metallic surfaces, the oxides of the metals 
thus produced increasing fi-iction mechani- 
cally. The oxides of metals have the power 
of saponifying vegetable and animal oils, and 
no doubt this combination often takes place 
when oils of this kind are used on rasty bear- 
ings. The soaps formed by the union of the 
saponifiable parts of oils with metallic oxides 
are hard and insoluble, and are, therefore, 
much less perfect lubricators than the oils 
themselves. Some oils, more particularly 
those extracted from petroleum, are volatile, 
and evaporate as soon as journals become 
slight^ heated. Oils possessing these de- 
fects are unfit for pui-poses of general lubrica- 
tion. Probably nothing else has ever been 
discovered that possesses in so high a degree 
all the properties desirable in a lubricator as 
good, pure spenn oil. There have been, how- 
ever, some close approximations to it in oils 
extracted from petroleum. Many of the lat- 
ter are, nevertheless, very inferior. Some ex- 
cellent lubricating oils are also obtained from 
various seeds. The olive and the castor bean 
furnish oils very good for lubrication. Olive 
oil is, however, too expensive for general ap- 
plication to this purpose. {See No. 1495.) 

1540. Sperm Oil as a Lubricator for 
Heavy Machinery. The superiority of 
winter sperm oil has been fully established 
by experiments made during 14 months, on 
the car and locomotive axles ef a leading line 
of railroad; these went to prove that when 
using mineral, animal or fish oils, it required 
from 100 to 400 per cent, more of these oUs 
to keep the temperature of the journals below 
100° Fahr. than when winter spenn oil was 
employed ; and in no instance could the pres- 
sure on the car- shaft be raised to 8,000 pounds 
with any other oil. It was also established 



JFA T E 11 FJIOOFI X G 



159 



that under various veiooities, the amount of 
this oil consumed in lubrication decreased in 
almost the same ratio as the velocity ; and 
as the velocity and the requisite amount of 
oil was diminished, the pressure could be in- 
creased without any increased consumption 
of oil. 

1541. Booth's Axle Grease. This pop- 
ular axle grease is made as follows : Dissolve 
i pound common soda in 1 gallon water, add 
3 pounds tallow and six pounds palm oil (or 
10 pounds of palm oil only). Heat them to- 
gether to 200O or 210° Fahr.; mix, and keep 
the mixture constantly stirred till the compo- 
sition is cooled down to 60° or 70°. 

1542. Thin Axle Grease. A thinner 
compor:«tion than the last is made with k 
pound soda, 1 gallon water, 1 gallon rape oil, 
and i pound tallow, or palm oil. 

1543. French Liard for Lubrication. 
The French compound, called liard, is thus 
made : Into .50 parts of finest rape oil put 
1 part of caoutchouc, cut small. Apply heat 
until it is nearly all dissolved. 

1544. Bavarian Anti-Friction Com- 
position. This composition has been em- 
ployed in Munich with success and economy 
to diminish friction in machinery. It consists of 
104 parts x)ure hog's lard melted with 2 parts 
finely pulverized and sifted plumbago. The 
lard is first to be melted over a moderate fire, 
then the plumbago is thoroughly mixed in, a 
handful at a time, with a wooden spoon, and 
stirred until the mixture is of a uniform com- 
position. This is applied in its cold state with 
a brush to the pivots, the cogs of the wheels, 
&G., and seldom more than once in 24 hours. 
It was found that this composition replaced 
satisfactorily the oil, tallow and tar used in 
certain iron-worivs, and saved about fom'- fifths 
of the cost of those articles. 

1545. Lubricator for Wagon Axles. 
Tallow, 8 pounds; palm oil, 10 pounds; and 
plumbago, 1 pound, make a good lubricator 
for wagon axles. A mixture of glycerine 
and plumbago makes a fine liquid lubricator. 

1546. Mankettrick's Lubricating 
Compound. 4 pounds caoutchouc dissolved 
in spirits of turpentine, 10 pounds common 
.s6da, 1 pcrand glue dissolved in 10 gallons wa- 
ter, 10 gallons of oil thoroughly incor])orated 
by assiduous stirring, adding the caoutchouc 
last. 

1547. Anti- Attrition Grease. Grind 
together blacklead with four times its weight 
of lard or tallow. This is used to lessen 
friction in machinery, and to prevent iron 
rusting. It was once a patent article. Cam- 
phor is sometimes added, 7 pounds to the 
cwt. 

1548. Anti-Friction Grease. Boil 
together If cwt. tallow with 11 cwt. palm 
oil. When boiling point is reached, allow it 
to cool to blood-heat, stirring it meanwhile, 
the-JL strain through a sieve into a solution 
of -^ cwt. soda in 3 galhms water, mixing it 
well. The above is for summer. For winter, 
li cwt. tallow to If cwt. palm oil. Spring 
and autumn, 11 tallow, Ih palm oil. 

1549. Watchmakers' Oil. Prepared 
by placing a strip of clean lead in a small 
white glass bottle filled with olive oil, and ex- 
posing it to the sun's rays at a window for 
some time, till a curdy matter ceases to de- 



posit, and the oil has become quite limpid and 
colorless. Used for fine work ; does not get 
thick by age. (See No. 1551.) Or: — expose 
the finest porpoise oil to the lowest natural 
temperature attainable. It will separate into 
two portions, a thick, solid mass at the bot- 
tom, and a thin, oily supernatant liquid. This 
is to be poured ofi" while at the low tempera- , 
ture named, and is then fit for use. Delicate 
clocks and watches are now lubricated with 
glycerine. 

1550. To Prepare Oleine for Watch 
makers' TJse. Oleine is the hquid portio. 
of oil and fat; by saponification it yield. 
oleic acid. Almond or olive oil is agitated in 
a stout bottle with 7 or 8 times its weight of 
strong alcohol specific gravity .798, at nearly 
the boiling point, until the whole is dissolved; 
the solution is allowed to cool, after which the 
clear fluid is decanted from the stearine which 
has been deposited, and after filtration, the 
spirit is removed by distillation at a gentle 
heat. By exposure at a very low temperature 
it deposits any remaining stearine, and then 
becomes pure. 

1551. To Refine Oil for Fine Mechan- 
ism. Refined oil for fine mechanism can be 
prepared by putting zinc and lead shavings, in 
equal parts, into good Florence olive oil, and 
placing in a cool place till the oil becomes 
colorless. (See No. 1496.) 



'\XTeiteV-prOO&llg. i^umerous 
V V plans have been invented for ren- 
dering cloth and felting waterproof: the best 
methods adopted are given in the following 
receipts : 

1553. Waterproof Porous Cloth. A 
porous waterproof cloth is the best for outer 
garments during wet weather, for those whose 
duties or labor causes them to perspire freely. 
The best way for preparing such cloth is by 
the process adopted for the tunics of the 
French soldiers during the Crimean war. It 
is as follows: Take 2^ pounds alum and dis- 
solve in 10 gallons boiling water ; then in a 
separate vessel dissolve the same quantity 
sugar of lead in 10 gallons of water, and mix 
the two solutions. The cloth is now well han- 
dled in this liquid, until every part of it is 
penetrated; then it is squeezed and dried in 
the air, or in a warm apartment, then washed 
in cold water and dried again, when it is fit for 
use. If necessary, the cloth may be dippedin 
the liquid and dried twice before being wash- 
ed. The liquor appears curdled when tha 
alum and lead solutions are mixed together. 
This is the result of double decomposition, 
the sulphate of lead, which is an insolu- 
ble salt, being formed. The sulphate of 
lead is taken up in the pores of the 
cloth, and it is unaffected by rains or 
moisture, and yet it does not render the 
cloth air-tight. Such cloth is also partially 
non-inflammable. A solution of alum itself 
will render cloth, prepared as described, par- 
tially waterproof, bat it is not so good as the 
sulphate of lead. Such cloth — cotton or wool- 
en — sheds rain like the feathers on the back 
of a duck. 

1 554. To Waterproof Tweed Cloaks. 
Dissolve 2 pound alum in two quarts boiling 



160 



WA T E R F li OOFING 



water, and pour the solution into a vessel 
containing 2 gallons cold spring water. 
Immerse the garment in this vessel, and let 
it remain 24 hours. Dissolve J pound sugar 
of lead in 2 quarts of boiling water, and pour 
the solution into another vessel containing 2 
gallons of cold spring water. Take the gar- 
ment from the first vessel, gently wring or 
press it, and immerse it in the second vessel. 
Let it remain 6 hours, gently wring it, and 
hang it in the shade to dry. This receipt has 
been tried, and found to answer admirably. 
It is very similar to the last, but only half the 
quantity of sugar of lead is used, and the 
cloth is immersed in the solutions separately. 

1555. Cooley's Method of Making- 
Cloth. Waterproof. This is a simple, but 
perfectly successful method of rendermg 
cloth waterproof without being, at the same 
time, airproof. Spread the cloth on any 
smooth surface, and rub the wrong side with 
a lump of bees' wax (perfectly pure and free 
from grease), until the surface presents a 
shght; but uniform, white or grayish appear- 
ance. If this be done carefully and thor- 
lughly, a lighted candle may be blown out 
through the cloth, if coarse ; and yet a piece 
of the same, placed across an inverted hat, 
may have several glassfulls of water poured 
into the hollow formed by it, without any of 
the liquid passing through ; pressure or fric- 
tion will alone make It do so. 

1556. French Waterproof Felting. 
This composition, heretofore regarded as a 
secret in France, has been adopted for use in 
the French navy. The information regard- 
ing this material was furnished by Mr. Parent 
to the "Journal of Applied Chemistry." The 
inoxidizable compound for waterproof is made 
thus : IO62 parts, by weight, India rubber, 175 
parts finely sifted sawdust,. 10 parts powdered 
sulphur, 25 parts slacked lime, 125 parts sul- 
phate of alumina, 125 parts sulphate of iron, 
10 parts hemp tow. To mix the above, use 
heated cylinders, so as to obtain a very 
homogeneous paste, which is made into thin 
cakes, and afterward divide into small pieces 
to be dissolved. To dissolve this substance, 
take 4^ pounds spirits of turpentine, benzine, 
(common is preferable), petroleum, or sul- 
phuret of carbon, to 22 pounds of the mixture. 
It must be stirred 5 or 6 times during 24 
hours, at the end of which time the mass will 
be thoroughly dissolved, The solution is then 
spread on the fabrics or articles to be preserv- 
ed, by means of rollers, knives, or spatulas, 
adapted to the purpose. Apply as many 
coats as may be necessary, and then let it dry. 
As soon as the fabric is dry, it is passed un- 
der pasteboard laminating rollers, in order to 
give a lustre to the surface. The fabric is 
then rolled up on a hollow iron pipe, which is 
covered with cloth to prevent it sticking to 
the iron, and the whole placed in a copper 
pipe, with a perforated lid or cover ; steam is 
then introduced at a pressm-e of 4 atmo- 
spheres, which pressure is maintained for 1 
hour, at the end of which time the operation 
is ended. If it be desired to give these im- 
permeable covers a black color, a solution of 
sulphate of iron, nut-gall and logwood is ap- 
plied with a brush. 

1557. To Make Waterproof Joint 
Closers. Caps or joint closers can be made of 



about the same materials as the above by ob- 
serving the following proportions: Dissolve 
211 parts, by weignt, of India rubber, in suf- 
ficient benzine; then mix with it 15 parts 
sawdust, 2 parts sulphur, 3 parts red lead, and 
5 parts each of alum, slacked lime, and hemp 
tow, adding benzine to make the whole into 
a paste. For closing the joints on steam en- 
gines, hydraulic pumps, <fec. 

1558. To Render Articles Water- 
proof. A patent has recently been taken 
out in Paris for a method of rendering paper, 
cloth, cork, sponge, and other porous sub- 
stances waterproof, as well as articles manu- 
factm-ed from these materials, including bank- 
notes, envelopes, gloves, clothing, paper col- 
lars, umbrellas, labels, (fee. The process con- 
sists in dissolving parafiine, cut up in small 
slices, in pm-e naphtha or benzine, entirely free 
from fat or oil. The solution is to ])e made 
in a vessel with a glass stopper, and is to be 
shaken repeatedly until the result is accom- 
phshecl. An excess of paraffine should be 
used, so as to make sure of having a perfectly 
saturated solution. The articles to be treat- 
ed are immersed in this for a time, according 
to the thickness or porosity of the tissue, and 
arranged to secure either a complete satura- 
tion or the penetration of the liquid to 
any required depth. After removal, the 
articles are to be dried by the appli- 
cation of heat, or in the air. The solvent 
evaporates, leaving the paper or other sub- 
stance saturated with paraffine impermeable 
to water, and capable of resisting the action 
of acids. Articles of dress, such as paper 
collars and wristbands, should be subjected to 
the action of a flat-iron or heated cylinder, in 
order to give them a high degree of pohsh. 
The applications of this process are manifold, 
and new ones are constantly suggesting them- 
selves. 

1559. Balard's Waterproofing for 
Clothing. Balard recommends the applica- 
tion of acetate of alumina for the purpose of 
rendering clothing impervious to water. The 
cloth is to be immersed in a mixture of solu- 
tions of acetate of lead and sulphate of alum- 
ina; by mutual decomposition of the salts, 
acetate of alumina is produced on the cloth, 
and when the goods are dried, basic acetate 
of alumina adheres to the fibre, and thus pro- 
tects it from the action of moisture. The 
process is particularly recommended for mili- 
tary goods. 

1560. Berlin Waterproof Cloth. A 
firm in Berlin has for some years furnished a 
completely waterproof cloth, the process for 
making which has been kept a secret. It is 
now stated, however, that the method con- 
sists, in all probability, in saturating the cloth 
at first with a solution of sulphate of alum- 
ina and of copper, and then immersing it in 
a bath of water-glass and a solution of resin 
soap. The object of the copper seems to be 
to jjrevent the cloth from rotting or stiffening 
more perfectly than can be done by the alum- 
ina alone. (/S^ee iVb. 1561.) 

1561. To Waterproof Linen, Canvas, 
&c. Three baths are prepared as follows : 
The first, by dissolving 1 part neutral sul- 
phate of alumina (concentrated alum cake) 
in 10 parts cold water. For the second, boil 
1 part light resin, 1 part soda crystals and 10 



RONEY. 



161 



parts water, till the soda is dissolved ; add \ 
part common salt, to separate the water and 
collect the soap ; dissolve this soap with an 
equal amount of good palm-oil soap in 30 
parts water. This soap hath must be used 
hot. The third bath consists of water only. 
Soak the fabric thoroughly in the first, or 
alum bath ; next pass it through the soap 
bath ; and lastly, rinse in the water. {Se6 No. 
1560.) 

1562. Metallic Soap. Metallic soap 
in linseed oil is highly recommended for coat- 
ing canvas for wagon covers, tents, (fee, as 
being not only impermeable to moisture, but 
remaining pliable for a long time without 
breaking. It can be made with little expense, 
as follows : Soft soap is to be dissolved in hot 
water, and a solution of copperas (sulphate 
of iron) added. The sulphuric acid com- 
bines with the potash of the soap, and the 
oxide of iron is precipitated with the fatty 
acid as insoluble iron soap. This is washed 
and dried, and mixed with linseed oil. 
The addition of dissolved India rubber to the 
oil greatly improves the paint. 

1563. To Render Canvas Fire and 
"Waterproof. Tents, awnings, canvas, &c., 
may be made fireproof as well as watei-prcof, 
by immersion in soluble glass diluted with 
boiling water to 25° Baume. Before thor- 
oughly dry, immerse in a solution of sulphate 
of alumina (alum cake) and sulphate of cop- 
per (blue vitriol), Ipart of each to 10 parts of 
water ; then dry the fabric slowly in the air. 

1564. Fir eproofing Fabrics. A solu 
tion of 3 parts borax and 2^ parts sulphate of 
magnesia in 20 parts water is recommended 
Or a mixture of sulphate of ammonia and 
sulphate of lime. Soluble glass is applicable 
to rendering wood and theatrical decorations 
less inflammable. 



Honey. 
tracted 



The sweet substance ex 
by the bee from the juices of 
the nectaries of flowers, and deposited in the 
cells of wax forming the honey-comb. Pure 
honey consists of a syrup of uncrystallizable 
sugar and crystalline saccharine grains, re- 
sembling grape sugar. Tirgin honey is that 
which flows spontaneously from the comb; 
ordinary honey, that obtained by heat and 
pressure. 

1566. To Piirify Honey. Take of 
honey, 8 pounds ; water, 16 pounds ; heat in 
a tin vessel to 212° Fahr. (not to boiling) for 
1 hour ; then set aside over night. Mix with 
fresh coarsely powdered charcoal, 2 ounces 
Troy, and strain through flannel, then evapo- 
rate in a steam bath, at about 175° Fahr., to 
the proper consistence. 

Hofimann dilutes the honey with water, 
adds solution of tannin as long as precipitation 
takes place, heats to 212°, strains and evapo- 
rates as before. 

Mohr and Eebling have an unfavorable 
opinion of charcoal, and recommend tannin or 
powdered galls. 

Strauss, of St. Petersburg, likewise removes 
an excess of tannin bv means of gelatin. 

1567. Rebling's Method of Purify- 
ing' Honey. One half ounce of honey and 
k ounce water are mixed with \ grain pow- 



dered galls, heated to boiling, and then mixed 
with sufficient lime-water to neutralize the 
acid. For the best honey it takes 2 drachms. 
This is merely a preliminary test to determine 
the necessary quantity of lime-water. A floc- 
culent precipitate takes place, which readily 
separates, leaving the honey perfectly clear 
and of a very pale yellow color, like that of 
an old Rhine wine ; the strained liquor must 
be perfectly neutral. Prom the quantity of 
lime-water necessary, the quantity of the 
whole lot of honey is calculated, and is then 
treated as follows : 1 pound avoirdupois each 
of honey and water are heated, 4 gi-ains pow- 
dered gaUs are added ; the whole well stirred, 
heated to boiling, and the whole quantity of 
lime-water added at once. The fire is imme- 
diately slackened and after a few minutes the 
honey, when sufficiently clear, is strained ; if 
still acid, reheating and an addition of more 
lime-water will be necessary. It is to be 
evaporated as above. 

1568. Vogel's Method of Purifying 
Honey. Yogel's method is to beat 5 pounds 
honey with the white of 1 Qgg till it froths, 
and then add water to make it of the consist- 
ence of syrup; it is next boiled until the 
white of Q,gg can be skimmed ofi". Pour it 
into an upright vessel into which a faucet has 
been inserted near the bottom, and let it set- 
tle for some weeks — when the pure honey 
may be drawn off through the faucet 

1569. To Clarify Honey. Melt the 
honey in a water-bath, remove the scum, and 
pour off the clear. Less agreeable than raw 
honey, but not so apt to ferment and gripe. 

1570. Siller's Method of Clarifying 
Honey. Any quantity of honey is dissolved 
in an equal part, by weight, of water. The- 
liquid is allowed to boil up 4 or 6 times with- 
out skimming ; it is then removed from the 
fii'e, and after being cooled, brought on several 
strong linen strainers, stretched horizontally, 
and covered with a layer of clean and well- 
washed sand an inch in depth. When the 
solution has passed through the strainers, it 
is found to be of the color of clear white wine; 
the sand being allowed to remain on the 
strainers, is rinsed with cold water, and the 
whole of the liquor is finally evaporated to the 
thickness of syrap. 

1571. To Clarify Honey. Dissolve 
the honey in water, add 1^ pounds animal 
charcoal to every 28 pounds of honey, gently 
simmer for 15 minutes, add a little chalk to 
satm-ate excess of acid, if required ; strain or 
clarify, and evaporate. Observe. — Honey 
acquires a darker color if heated in copper or 
iron vessels ; the above processes should 
therefore be conducted in earthen or well- 
tinned copper pans. 

1572. Shute's Artificial Honey. Soft 
water, 6 pounds ; pure best honey, 3 pounds ; 
white moist sugar, 20 pounds ; cream of tar- 
tar, 80 grains ; essence of roses, 24 drops. 
Mix the above in a brass kettle, boil over a 
charcoal fire 5 minutes, take it off, add the 
whites of 2 eggs well beaten ; when almost 
cold, add 2 pounds more honey. A decoction 
of slippery elm will improve the honey if it 
be added while cooling, but it will ferment in 
warm weather and rise to the surface. 

1 573. Cuba Honey. Good brown sugar, 
11 pounds; water, 1 quart; old bee honey va 



163 



BEES' WAX. 



the comb, 2 pounds ; cream of tartar, 50 
grains ; gum-arabic, 1 ounce ; oil of pepper- 
mint, 5 drops ; oil of rose, 2 drops. Mix and 
boil 2 or 3 minutes and remove from the fire. 
Have ready, strained, 1 quart water in which 
a table- spoonful of pulverized slippery elm bark 
has stood sufficiently long to make it ropy and 
thick like honey. Mix this into the kettle 
with egg weU beat up. Skim well in a few 
minutes, and when a little cool add 2 pounds 
nice strained bees' honey, and then strain the 
whole, and you will have not only an article 
which looks and tastes like honey, but which 
possesses all its medical properties. (The 
slippery elm will ferment in wann weather 
and rise to the surface.) 

1574. Artificial Honey. Take 10 
pounds Havana sugar, 4 pounds water, 40 
gi-ains cream of tartar, 10 drops essence of 
peppermint, and 3 pounds honey; first dissolve 
the sugar in the water over a slow fire, and 
take off the scum. Then dissolve the cream 
of tartar in a little warm water, and add, with 
some stirring ; then add the honey, heated to 
a boiling point ; then add the essence of pep- 
permint; stir for a few moments, and let it 
stand until cold, when it will be ready for 
use. 

1575. Excellent Honey. Take 5 pounds 
good common sugar, 2 pounds water, gradu- 
ally bring to a boil, skimming well; when 
cool, add 1 pound bees' honey and 4 drops of 
peppermint. If you desire a better article 
use white sugar and 5 pound less water and 5 
pound more honey. 

1576. To Test the Purity of Honey. 
Honey is frequently adulterated with molasses, 
potato-sugar syrup, starch, wheat flower, and 
water. The molasses may be detected b}^ 
the color and odor ; the potato-sugar syrup, 
by boiling a sample of the honey for a short 
time in water containing 2 or 3 per cent, of 
caustic potassa ; if the liquid remains color- 
less it is pure ; but if it turns brown, more or 
less, it is adulterated according to the quan- 
tity of syrup present. The starch, by the honey 
not forming a nearly clear solution with cold 
water, and striking a blue color with iodine. 
When it contains wheat flour and is heated, 
it at first liquefies, but on cooling it becomes 
solid and tough. Water is added to honey to 
increase its bulk. Its presence may be sus- 
pected from the greater thinness of the liquid. 



Bees' "Wax. The substance which 
forms the cells of bees; obtained by 
melting the comb in water after the honey 
has been removed, straining the liquid mass, 
remelting the defecated portion, and casting 
into cakes. Bees' wax, when pure, has neither 
taste nor smell ; it melts at about 157° Fahr., 
and is of a specific gravity of .966. It bums 
without smoke or disagreeable odor. It is in- 
soluble in water, but soluble in all proportions 
in the fixed and volatile oils, bisulphide of car- 
bon, and benzine. Its complete solution in 
these substances demonstrates its freedom 
from fecula, sulphur, sawdust, or bone dust, 
which have been found in the wax of com- 
merce, sometimes anwunting to 60 per cent. 
of the whole weight. The abundance and low 



price of paraffine have made this substance 
one of the principal articles used in the falsifi- 
cation of wax, and perhaps of all others it is 
the least objectionable, being without marked 
physiological effect upon the system. 
I 1578. To Bleach Wax. Pure white 
\ wax is obtained from the ordinary bees' wax 
j by exposm-e to the influence of the sun and 
I weather. The wax is sliced into thin flakes, 
and laid on sacking or coarse cloth, stretched 
on frames, resting on posts to raise them from 
the ground. The wax is turned over fre- 
quently, and occasionally spiinkled with soft 
water, if there be not dew and rain sufficient 
to moisten it. The wax should be bleached 
in about 4 weeks. If, on breaking the flakes, 
the wax still appears yellow inside, it is ne- 
cessary to melt it again, and flake and expose 
it a second time, or even oftener, before it be- 
comes thoroughly bleached. The time re- 
quired being mainly dependent on the state of 
the weather. There is a preliminary process, 
by which, it is claimed, much time is saved in 
the subsequent bleaching; this consists in 
passing melted wax and s^team through long 
pipes, so as to expose the wax as much as 
possible to the action of the steam; thence 
into a pan heated by a steam bath, where it 
is sthred thoroughly with water and then al- 
lowed to settle. The whole operation is re- 
peated a second and third time, and ihe wax 
is then in a condition to be more readily 
bleached. 

1579. To Bleach Wax. Wax cannot 
be bleached with chemicals; if any other 
agent but sunshine is employed, part of its 
properties will be destroyed, and it is genuine 
wax no longer. Chlorine will whiten, but at 
the same time greatly injure it. The chlorine 
is retained, and forms, on combustion, muriatic 
acid. 

1580. French Method of Bleaching 
Bees' Wax. The wax is melted in copper 
vessels, and, after complete liquefaction, is 
agitated with 8 ounces of pulverized cream of 
tartar for each 100 pounds. After some 
minutes' agitation it is allowed to deposit its 
impurities, and is drawn into a wooden vessel 
and allowed to deposit a fm-ther amount of 
foreign substance — dirt, sand, bees, etc. — and, 
while still liquid, is drawn upon a little roller 
partly immersed in water, to which a regular 
rotation is given — thus producing thin sheets 
or ribbons of wax, which may be detached 
from the roller, being now ready for the pro- 
cess of bleaching. This is accomplished by 
the exposure of the yellow scales and ribbons, 
upon cloths, to the dhect rays of the sun and 
the dew, for several days, dm'ing which time 
the wax completely loses its color. It is, 
however, in practice impossible to bleach the 
wax at a single operation, as the effect takes 
place only on the surface, and, as the ribbons 
have a certain thickness, it is necessarj^ to 
melt them anew, and having repeated the 
operation of granulating, it is submitted to a 
second exposure. The wax thus bleached is 
melted, and cast into discs of 1 to 2 ounces 
weight, and forms the cera alba of the Phar- 
macopceia. 

1581. Italian Method of Bleaching 
Bees' Wax. The yellow wax is first melted 
in a kettle, and then is dipped out into a long 
tin vessel that wiU hold 2 or 3 gallons^ and 



BEES' WAX. 



163 



Tvhich ias » row of small holes, about the 
diitmecer of a knitting-iieedle, iu the bottom. 
This vessel ij fixed over a cylinder of wood 2 
feet in length and 15 inches in diameter, 
"which is made to revolve like a grindstone, in 
one end of a trough of water 2-^ feet in width, 
10 to 15 feet in length, and 1 foot in depth. 
As the melted wax falls iu small streams on 
this wet revolving cylinder, it flattens out in- 
to a thin ribbon and floats off toward the 
other end of the trough of water. It is then 
dipped out with a skimmer (that may be 
made of osier twigs), spread on a table (with 
a top made of small willow rods, covered with 
a clean white cloth), and then exposed in this 
way to the sun until bleached. 

1582. To Detect Spermaceti in "Wax. 
The presence of spermaceti in what is sold as 
virgin wax, is shown by its reduced melting 
point, its bending before it breaks, and by its 
flavor when chewed. 

1583. To Detect Japanese Wax in 
Bees' Wax. According to Eager, this is de- 
termined by their difl"erent behavior in a con- 
centrated solution of borax, at the boihng 
point. Bees' wax is totally insoluble in such 
a solution, while Japanese wax dissolves, and 
on cooling forms a milky white, gelatinous 
mass. From a mixture of the two the latter 
is dissolved out, carrying with it a portion of 
the former, while another portion rises and 
congeals on the surface. 

1584. To Refine Bees' Wax. Crude 
wax, especially that imported, is generally 
loaded with dirt, bees, and other foreign mat- 
ter. To free it from these substances, it un- 
dergoes the operation of refining. This is 
done by melting the wax along with about 3 
per cent, of water in a bright copper boiler, 
preferably heated by steam, and after the 
whole is perfectly liquid, and has boiled for a 
few minutes, withdrawing the heat, and 
sprinkling over its smface a little oil of vitriol, 
in the proportion of about 3 or 4 fluid ounces 
to every 100 pounds of wax. This operation 
should be conducted with great care and cir- 
cumspection; as, if done carelessly, the melted 
wax will froth up, and boil over the sides of 
the pan. The acid should also be well scat- 
tered over the whole surface. The melted wax 
is next covered over, and left for some hours 
to settle, or till it becomes sufficiently cool to 
be drawn off into the moulds. It is then very 
gently skimmed Avith a hot ladle, and bailed 
or decanted into basins, where it is left to 
cool. Great care must be taken not to disturb 
the sediment. TVhen no more clear wax can 
be drawn off, the remainder in the melting 
pan is allowed to cool, and the cake or foot, 
as it is called, is taken out, and the impurities 
(mostly bees) scraped from its under surface. 
The remaining portion is usually reserved for 
a second operation, but, if required, may be at 
once melted, and strained through canvas 
into a mould. The great art in the above 
process is to produce a wax which shall at 
once be bright or semi-translucent in thin 
pieces, and good colored. The former is best 
insured by allowing the melted mass to settle ! 
well, and by carefully skimming and decant- 1 
ing the clear portion without disturbing the 
sediment. It should also not be poured into I 
the moulds too warm, as, in that case, it is i 
apt to separate^ and the resulting cakes to be ! 



streaky, or of different shades of color. It 
should also be allowed to cool very slowly. 
When cooled rapidly, especially if a current of 
air fall upon its surface, it is apt to crack and 
form cakes full of fissures. Some persons 
who are very nice about their wax, have tho 
cakes polished with a stiff brush when quite 
cold and hard. It is necessary to have tho 
cans, ladles, and skimmers used in the above 
process kept quite hot, as without this precau- 
tion the wax cools, and accumulates upon 
them in such quantity as to render them in- 
convenient, and often quite useless, without 
being constantly scraped out. 

1 585. To Refine Wax. Another method 
of refining crude wax, and which produces a 
very bright article, is to melt it with about 1 
per cent, of concentrated nitric acid, in a 
large earthen or stoneware vessel, heated by 
steam or a salt-water bath, and to continue 
the boiling till nitrous fumes cease to be 
evolved, after which the whole is allowed to 
settle, and treated as before. 

1586. To Color Bees' Wax. Much of 
the imported wax has a pale dirty color, 
which renders it, no matter how pure, objec- 
tionable to the retail purchaser. Such wax 
undergoes the operation of coloring. This is 
done as follows : — A small quantity of the 
best roll annotto, cut into slices (i pound, 
more or less, to 1 cwt. wax, depending on the 
paleness of the latter), is put into a clean 
boiler with about a gallon of water, and 
boiled for some time, or till it is perfectly dis- 
solved, when a few ladlefuls of the melted 
wax are added, and the boihng continued till 
the wax has taken up all the color, or till the 
water is mostly evaporated. The portion of 
wax thus treated has now a deep orange color, 
and is added in quantity as requu'ed to the 
remainder of the melted wax in the larger 
boiler, till the proper shade of color is produced 
when cold, observing to well mix the whole, 
and to cool a little now and then to ascertain 
when enough has been added. The copper 
must be then brought to a boil, and treated 
with vitriol, &c., as before. {See No. 1584.) 

1587. To Color Bees' Wax. Another 
method is to add bright palm oil to the wax 
till it gets sufficient color; but this plan is 
objectionable from the quantity required for 
the purpose being often so large as to injm-e 
the quality of the wax; besides which the 
color produced is inferior, and less transparent 
and permanent. 

1588. Factitious, or Imitation Bees' 
Wax. Yellow resin, 16 pounds ; hard mut- 
ton suet or stearine, 8 pounds ; palm oil, 2^ 
pounds ; melt together. 

II. As last, but substitute turmeric, 1 pound, 
for the palm oil, 

III. Best annotto, 6 ounces, or sufficient to 
color ; water, 1 gallon ; boil tOl dissolved, add 
hard mutton suet or stearine, 35 pounds ; yel- 
low resin, 70 pounds; boil with constant agi- 
tation till perfectly mixed and of a proper 
color, and as soon as it begins to thicken, 
pour it out into basins to cool. When cold 
rub each cake over with a little potato starch. 
Used instead of wax in ointments by farriers, 

1589. Braconot's Method of Making 
Artificial Wax. Any animal grease or 
tallow is liquefied by oil of turpentine, and 
poured into small round boxes lined with felt 



164: 



CHEESE 



in the inside, with a number of small holes 
bored in the sides and the bottom. From 
these little boxes the liquid is pressed out 
gi'adually, but sufficiently to get rid of the 
turpentine oil and all the fluidity. The firm 
mass remaining must be washed a long time 
in water, to take away the smell of the oil of 
turpentine, and then kept fluid for several 
hours with animal charcoal freshly prepared 
and afterwards filtered whilst boiling. When 
cooled, it is a substance beautifully white, 
half transparent, dry, brittle, and free from 
taste or smell ; and will mix well with chlo- 
rine or muriatic acid, or with ^ of wax to give 
it the necessary suppleness. In this state 
the mass can be made into candles not to be 
distinguished from wax lights. The turpen- 
tine is separated from the other oil, and 
evaporated by means of distillation; and this 
oil, when purified and whitened with animal 
charcoal, is of great service in the preparation 
of a soap extremely well adapted for the trade 
and for household purposes. This animal oil, 
when saponified with potash, and then by 
means of the sulphuric acidulated soda often 
contained in the mother lye, can be changed 
into a hard soda soap. There is also a sul- 
phate of potash, much in demand in the alum 
works, to be obtained from it. 

1590. Modeling Wax, This is made 
of white wax, which is melted and mixed 
with lard to make it malleable. In working 
it, the tools and the board or stone are moist- 
ened with water, to prevent its adhering ; it 
may be colored to any desirable tint with dry 
color. 

1591. Wax for Polishing Floors. To 
prepare this, 12k pounds yellow wax, rasped, 
are stirred into a hot solution of 6 pounds good 
pearl-ash, in rain water. Keeping the mixture 
well stirred while boiling, it is first quiet, but 
soon commences to froth ; and when the efier- 
vescence ceases, heat is stopped, and there 
are added to the mixture, while still stirring, 
6 pounds dry yellow ochre. It may then be 
poured into tin cans or boxes, and hardens on 
cooling. When wanted for use, a pound of it 
is difiuse.d in 5 pints boiling hot water, and 
the mixture well stirred, applied while still 
hot to the floor by means of a paint-brush. 
It dries in a few hours, after which the floor 
is to be polished with a large floor-brush 
and afterwards wiped with a coarse woolen 
cloth. A coat of this paint will last six 
months. 



CllGGSe. The materials employed in 
making cheese are milk and rennet. The 
milk may be of any kind, from the poorest 
skimmed milk to that rich in cream, according 
to the quality of the cheese required. The 
poorest kind of cheese is made from the 
fornier, and the finer from the latter, to which 
additional cream is frequently added. The 
materials being ready, the greater portion of 
the milk is put into a large tub, and the re- 
mainder sufficiently heated to raise the whole 
quantity to the temperature of new milk. 
The whole is then whisked together, the rennet 
{see No. 1595) added, and the tub covered 
over. It is now allowed to stand until com- 



pletely turned, when the curd is struck down 
several times with the skimming-dish, after 
which it is allowed to subside. The vat 
covered with cheese-cloth is next placed on a 
horse or ladder over the tub, and filled with 
curd by means of the skimmer ; the curd is 
pressed down with the hands, and more added 
as it sinks. This process is repeated until 
the curd rises to about 2 inches above the 
edge. The cheese thus partially separated 
from the whey is now placed in a clean tub, 
and a proper quantity of salt added, or the 
salt is added to it without removing it from 
the vat, after which a board is placed over 
and under it, and pressure applied for 2 or 3 
hours. The cheese is next turned out and 
surrounded by a fresh cheese-cloth, and pres- 
sure again applied for 8 or 10 hours, when it 
is commonly removed from the press, salted 
all over, and pressed again for 15 to 20 hours. 
The quality of the cheese especially depends 
on this part of the process, as, if any of the 
whey be left in the cheese, it will not keep, 
but will rapidly become bad flavored. Before 
placing it in the press the last time, the 
edges should be pared smooth and sightly. 
It now only remains to wash the outside of 
the cheese in warm whey or water, wipe it 
dry, color it with annotto, and place it in a 
cool place to mature or ripen. 

1593. To Collect tlie Curd in Making 
Cheese. There are several methods adopted 
of collecting the cm-d, and as the flavor of 
the cheese varies accordingly, it is as well to 
notice them. One way is to break the curd 
early, and to remove the whey as soon as 
possible; another plan is to gather it with 
the hands very gently towards the sides of 
the tub, letting the whey run off" through the 
fingers until it becomes cleared, and ladling 
it ofi" as it collects. A third method is to re- 
move it as quickly as possible with the curd- 
skimmer. Of these the second plan is said to 
be the best, as it preserves the oily particles, 
many of which are lost by the other methods. 

1594. To Make Cream Cheese. This 
is made either of the "■ strippings" (the last 
of the milk drawn from the cow at each milk- 
ing), or of a mixture of milk and cream. It 
is usually made up into small pieces, and a 
gentle pressure, as that of a 2 or 4 pound 
weight, applied to press out the whey. After 
twelve hours, it is placed upon a board or 
wooden trencher, and turned every day, until 
dry. In about three weeks it will be ripe. 
I^othing but raw cream, turned with a little 
rennet {see No. 1595) is employed, when a 
very rich cheese is wanted. A little salt is 
generally added, and frequently a little pow- 
dered lump sugar. The vats employed for 
cream cheeses are usually square, and of smaU 
size. 

1595. Rennet. The stomach of the 
calf, freed from the outer skin, fat, and use- 
less membrane, is washed, treated with either 
brine or dry salt for a few hours, and then 
stretched out upon a stick and hung up to 
dry. It is employed for curdling milk. A 
piece of the requisite size is cut ofi" and soaked 
for some hours in whey or water, after which 
the whole is added to the milk slightly 
warmed, or, if necessary, heated to about 
120° Fahr. In a short time the milk sepa- 
rates into a white curd, and a yellowish fluid 



PBESEBVATIVES. 



165 



called whey. 2 square inches from a good 
rennet are sufficient for a cheese of 60 pounds. 

1596. Essence of Rennet. Knead to- 
gether 12 ounces fresh rennet cut small, and 
3 ounces common salt ; leave the mixture for 
5 or 6 weeks in a cool place ; then add 18 
ounces water, and 2 ounces good rum or 
proof spirit. Digest for 24 hours ; filter, and 
color with a little burnt sugar. 2 or 3 tea- 
spoonfuls will curdle a quart of milk. 

1597. Condensed Milk. There is no 
difficulty in manufacturing condensed milk, 
and the process consists only in careful evap- 
oration, addition of sugar, and sealing up of 
the article. The evaporation should be con- 
ducted in a vacuum, to prevent the milk from 
becoming brown and acquiring a bitter taste. 
It is best to stir it constantly, or the skin of 
coagulated casein at the top will prevent 
quick evaporation. When sufficiently thick 
or condensed it is mixed with J its weight of 
granulated sugar, stirred well, filled in tins, 
and soldered up. 



Preservatives. These consist 
of such substances or methods as are 
employed for preventing decay in fruits, meat, 
and other perishable matter; together with 
valuable antiseptics. 

1599. To Dry Fresh Meat. Cut the 
flesh into slices from 2 to 6 ounces in weight, 
immerse a small portion at a time in boiling 
water for 5 or 6 minutes, using only just 
water enough to cover the meat, and adding 
fresh water only to keep the liquor up to its 
original quantity. Lay the meat to dry on 
open trellis-work in a drying stove, keeping 
the temperature at about 122^ Fahr. In 
about two days the meat will be completely 
dry, having lost about f its weight. Add a lit- 
tle salt and spice, especially coriander, to the 
liquor or soup in which the meat was im- 
mersed, and then evaporate it to a gelatinous 
consistence. "When the flesh is perfectly dry, 
dip it, piece by piece, in the gelatinous mat- 
ter liquefied by a gentle heat, and replace it 
in the stove to dry, repeating this varnishing 
and drying 2 or 3 times, so as to get the coat- 
ing uniformly thick. Meat thus dried will 
keep good for a year. 

1600. To Smoke Meat. This process 
consists in exposing meat, previously salted, 
to wood-smoke, in an apartment (usually 
called a smoke-house), into which the smoke 
is admitted by flues at the bottom of the side 
walls. The meat absorbs the pyroligneous 
acid of the smoke, and gets dried at the same 
time. It may be protected from soot by rub- 
bing over with bran, or wrapping in a cloth. 
The smoke from oak or beech wood is prefera- 
ble ; and the smoking is better slow and gen- 
tle than rapid and powerful ; the latter plan 
being too often adopted from motives of 
economy. Hams thus prepared, as is often 
the case, are ham merely on the surface, and 
corned pork inside. This process is some- 
times imitated by immersing the meat 
for a few hours in diluted pyrolygneous acid, 
but it is apt to harden or toughen the meat. 

1601. Smoking Fluid. One drop of 
creosote in a pint of water imparts a smoky 



flavor to fish or meat dipped into it for a few 
minutes. 

1602. To Dry-Salt and Pickle Meat. 

This is best performed by well rubbing the 
meat with a mixture of salt, 2 pounds ; salt- 
petre, 2 ounces; and moist sugar 1| ounces, 
till every crevice is thoroughly penetrated, 
after which it should be set aside till the next 
day, when it should be covered with fresh salt 
in such parts as require it. It may then be 
advantageously placed in any proper vessel, 
and subjected to pressure, adding a little fresh 
salt as necessary, and turning it daily till suf- 
ficiently cured. "When the brine as it forms 
is allowed to drain from the meat, the process 
is called dry- salting ; but when, on the con- 
trary, it is allowed to remain on it, the arti- 
cle is said to be wet-salted. On the small 
scale, the latter is most conveniently performea 
by rubbing the meat with salt, <fec., as above, 
and after it has lain a few hours, putting it 
into a pickle formed by dissolving 4 pounds 
salt, ^ or 1 pound sugar, and 2 ounces salt- 
petre in 2 gallons water. This pickling liquor 
gets weaker by use, and should therefore be 
occasionally boiled down a little and skimmed, 
at the same time adding some more of the 
dry ingredients. 

1603. Pickle to Give Meat a Red 
Color. Mix brown sugar, bay salt, com- 
mon salt, each 2 pounds ; saltpetre, 8 ounces ; 
water, 2 gallons; this pickle gives meat a 
fine red color, while the sugar renders it mild 
and of excellent flavor. Large quantities 
are to be managed by the above proportions. 

1604. To Salt Meat by Injection. 
The sooner meat is salted after being killed, 
the better, as it then possesses considerable 
absorbent power, which it gradually loses by 
age. On this property is based the process of 
M. Gannel for the preservation of animals 
intended for food in a fresh state. This opera- 
tion consists in injecting a solution of chlor- 
ide of aluminum at lO'^ Baume, into the car- 
otid, by means of a syphon, as soon as the 
blood ceases to flow from the slaughtered ani- 
mal, both extremities of the jugular vein 
being previously tied. 9 to 12 quarts of the 
solution are sufficient for an ox. When the 
animal has been well bled, and the injection 
skillfully performed, it is scarcely perceptible 
that the animal has undergone any prepara- 
tion. The injected animal is cut up in the 
usual way ; and when intended to be eaten 
within 2 or 3 weeks, merely requires to be 
hung up in a dry situation free from flies; 
but if it is to be kept for a longer period, it is 
directed to be washed with a mixed solution 
of common salt and chloride of aluminum at 
10° Baume, and then simply dried and packed 
in clean air-tight barrels, and kept in a cool, 
dry place. If the air cannot be perfectly ex- 
cluded, it should be packed in dry salt, not 
for the purpose of preserving it, but to pre- 
vent the meat from becoming musty from ex- 
posure and the action of moisture. Meat pre- 
served by this process may be kept for several 
years, and merely requires soaking for 24 
hours in water, for the purpose of swelling its 
pores, to give it the appearance and taste of 
fresh meat, fit either for roasting or boiling. 

1605. Pelouze's Process of Preserv- 
ing Meat. The meat is to be cut up into 
pieces of convenient size, and subjected to 



166 



PBESEEVATIVES. 



an atmospliere of carbonic oxide under pres- 1 
sure. After this a current of dry air is passed | 
over the meat, so as to carry off all the mois- 1 
ture, and this being accomplished, a solution { 
either of salt or saltpetre, or much diluted 
carbolic acid, is to be brought into contact 
with it, and the mass then sealed up in a 
tight vessel. 

1606. To Cure Hams. Cover the bot- 
tom of the cask with coarse salt, lay on the 
hams with the smooth or skin side down, 
sprinkle over fine salt, then another layer of 
hams, and so continue until the cask is full. 
This ought to be of the larger kind. A cask 
holding 64 gallons is small enough, and it 
would be better if it held 120 gallons. Make a 
brine in the following proportions : 6 gallons 
water, 9 pounds salt, 4 pounds brown sugar, 
3 ounces saltpetre, 1 ounce saleratus. Scald 
and skim, and when cold pom- the brine into 
the cask until the hams are completely cov- 
ered. The hams should remain in this pickle 
at least three months, and a little longer time 
would do them no harm. A handful each of 
mace and cloves scattered in the brine will 
greatlv improve the flavor of the meat. 

1607. To Cure Beef and Pork. To 
each gaUon of water add li pounds salt, 
^ pound sugar, ^ ounce saltpetre, and ^ ounce 
potash. Let these be boUed together until 
all the dirt from the sugar rises to the top and 
is skimmed off. Then throw it into a tub to 
cool, and when cold, pour it over the beef or 
pork, to remain the usual time, say 4 or 5 
weeks. The meat must be well covered with 
pickle, and should not be put down for at 
least 2 days after killing, during which time 
it should be slightly sprinkled with powdered 
saltpetre, which removes all the surface 
blood, &c., leaving the meat fresh and clean. 
Some omit boiling'the pickle, and find it to 
answer well, though the operation of boil- 
ing purifies the pickle by throwing off the 
dirt always to be found in salt and sugar. 
Ham cured in this manner may be smoked as 
usual, and will be found excellent. This re- 
ceipt has been tried with complete satisfac- 
tion. 

1608. Brine or Pickle for Pork, &c. 
Brown sugar, bay salt, common salt, of each 
2 pounds ; saltpetre, 5 pound ; water, 1 gallon. 
Boil gently and remove the scum. Another 
meat pickle is made with 12 pounds salt, 
2 pounds sugar or molasses, 5 pound nitre, and 
sufficient water to dissolve it. To cure hams, 
mix 5 ounces nitre with 8 ounces coarse sugar ; 
rub it on the ham, and in 24 hours rub in 2 
pounds salt, and in two weeks 2 pounds more. 
The above is for a ham of 20 pounds; it 
should lie in the salt a month or 5 weeks. 

1609. Liebig's Extract of Meat. Cut 
the lean of fresh-killed meat very small, put 
it into 8 times its weight of cold water, and 
heat it gradually to th"e boiling point. A\^hen 
it has boiled for a few minutes, strain it 
through a cloth, and evaporate the liquor 
gently by water-bath to a soft mass. 2 pounds 
meat yield 1 ounce extract. Fat must be 
carefully excluded, or it will not keep. 

1610. To Preserve Meat with. Vine- 
gar. This may be done either by washing 
the meat, drying and laying in strong vinegar ; 
or by being boiled in the vinegar, leaving it in 
the vinegar until cold« and then set aside in a 



cool cellar, where it will keep sound for seyeral 
months. 

1611. To Can Meat. Kemove the 
bones from fresh meat, parboil the flesh, put 
it into a clean tin can, and fill up with rich 
seasoned soup ; solder on the lid, pierced with 
a very small hole. ISText put the tin into a 
bath of brine and heat until the steam issues 
from the hole ; then solder up and at the same 
time remove the can from the bath. In a 
short time the pressure of the air will induce 
a slight concavity of the top and bottom of 
the can. If the process has been successfully 
perfonned, this concavity will be permanent ; 
but if, at any future time, the concavity has 
ceased, or the ends become shghtly convex, 
it is a sure sign that the meat has become 
putrid. The system of canning has been in 
later years applied to preserving fresh fruits 
and vegetables, and is done on substantially 
the same principles, namely, filling the can 
with steam, and hermetically sealing before 
the steam condenses. {See Xo. 1634.) 

1612. To Keep Meat Fresh. Place 
the meat on a wooden support (or suspend it) 
in a close vessel, on the bottom of which some 
strong acetic acid has been poured. In this 
way it may be kept fresh for a considerable 
time. 

1613. Preservation of Hams. Most 
grocers, dealers in hams, and others, who are 
particular in their meat, usually take the pre- 
caution to case each one, after it is smoked, in 
canvas, for the purpose of defending it from 
the attacks of a little insect, the dermestes 
lardarius, which, by laying its eggs in it, soon 
fills it with its larv£e, or maggots. This 
troublesome and expensive process may be al- 
together superseded by the use of pyroligneous 
acid. With a painter's brush, dipped in the 
liquid, one man, in the course of a day, may 
effectually secure two hundred hams from 
all danger. Care should be taken to insinuate 
the liquid into all the cracks, (fee, of the un- 
der surface. This method is especially adapt- 
ed to the preservation of hams in hot climates. 

1614. To Make Carbolic Acid Paper 
for Preserving Meats. Carbolic acid paper, 
which is now much used for packing fresh 
meats, for the purpose of preserving them 
against spoiling, is made by melting 5 parts 
stearine at a gentle heat, and then stirring in 
thoroughly 2 parts carbolic acid ; after which 
5 parts melted paraffine are to be added. The 
whole is to be well stirred together until it 
cools; after which it is melted and applied 
with a brush to the paper, in quires, in the 
same way as in preparing the waxed paper so 
much used in Europe for wrapping various 
articles. {See Kos. 1936 and 1938.) 

1615. To Preserve Fish Fresh with. 
Sugar. A method adopted in Portugal for 
preserving fish consists in cleaning and sprink- 
ling sugar over the interior, keeping the fish 
in a horizontal position, so that the sugar may 
penetrate as much as possible. It is said that 
fish prepared in this way can be kept com- 
pletely fresh for a long time, the savor being 
as perfect as if recently caught. Salmon thus 
treated before salting and smoking possess a 
much more agreeable taste; a table-spoonful 
of sugar being sufficient for a five-pound fish. 

1616. Aseptin. A substance called 
aseptin has recently been introduced into 



PBESEBVATIVES. 



167 



trade lay a Swedish dealer as a preservative 
material for milk, meat, etc. This is said to 
be simply boracic acid, or borax ; the double 
aseptin consisting of two parts of borax to 
one part of alum. Putrefaction is said to be 
prevented by the addition of this preparation, 
but mouldiness in animal substances is not. 
Although a very short time has elapsed since 
aseptin has been brought into notice, thousands 
of pounds are now sold almost daily in Scan- 
tlinavia and Germany. 

1617. Sportsman's Beef. Take a fine 
round of beef, 4 ounces saltpetre, f ounce all- 
spice, rub it well on the beef, and let it stand 
24 hours ; then rub in as much common salt 
as will salt it. Lay it by 12 days, turning it 
every day; then put it into a pan, such as large 
pies are baked in, with 8 or 4 pounds beef- 
suet, some under, some over. Cover it with 
a thick crust, and bake it for 6 hours. It will 
keep for 2 months, and most excellent it is. 

1618. Preservation of Meat. By re- 
peatedly immersing the meat in hydrochloric 
acid, subsequently drying, it is sufficiently 
cured to keep for a considerable time. "When 
required for use, the acid must be neutralized 
by a little carbonate of soda, by which it will 
be salted. The strength of the hydrochloric 
acid must be determined by experiment. 

1619. To Keep Dead Poultry, &c., 
Fresh. Dead birds may be preserved in a 
fresh state for some time by removing the in- 
testines, wiping the inside out quite dry with 
a towel, and then flouring them. A piece of 
blotting paper, on which one or two drops of 
creosote have been placed, is now to be put 
inside them, and a similarly prepared piece of 
paper tied round them. They should then be 
hung up in a cool dry place, free from the at- 
tacks of flies or vermin, and will be found to 
keep much longer than without undergoing 
this process. {See No. 1614.) 

1620. To Preserve or Cure Butter. 
Melt the butter in well glazed earthen pans, 
at a heat not exceeding 180° Fahr. in a water 
bath, and keep it heated, skimming it from 
time to time, until the butter becomes quite 
transparent, then pour off the clear into an- 
other vessel, and cool it as quickly as possible 
by surrounding it with cold water or ice. 
The above is the method of preserving butter 
employed by the Tartars who supply the Con- 
stantinople market, and in this state it may 
be preserved perfectly fresh for 6 months, if! 
kept in a close vessel and a cool place. This I 
plan received the approval of Thenard, as well | 
as Mr. Eaton ; the latter states that butter , 
melted by the Tartar method, and then salted j 
by ours, will keep good and fine-tasted for 2 j 
years. Any of the following methods of salt- 1 
ing mav be adopted. 

1621. To Preserve Butter by Salt- 
ing. Mix well together 1 ounce each salt- j 
petre and white sugar, and 2 oimces best salt, j 
all in very fine powder, then add 1 ounce of I 
this mixture to every pound of butter, and , 
thoroughly incorporate them together. The j 
butter thus prepared is then to be tightly : 
pressed into clean glazed earthenware vessels, : 
so as to have no vacant spaces. This butter 
does not taste well before it has stood for 2 or 
3 weeks, after which it acquires a rich maiTow j 
flavor, which no other butter ever possesses. I 
Any good well-made fresh butter, free from 



butter-milk, will succeed by this method, but 
the application of it to butter clarified by tho 
Tartar plan, as described above, produces an 
article that will keep longer good than buttei 
cured by any other process yet discovered. 

1622. To Preserve Butter by Salt- 
ing. Take fresh butter, 16 pounds; sak, 1 
pound. Or : Fresh butter, 18 pounds ; salt, 1 
pound ; saltpetre, \\ ounces ; honey or fine 
brown sugar, 2 ounces. Proceed as in tha 
last receipt. 

1623. To Preserve Butter from the 
Air. The best method to preserve butter 
from the air, is to fill the pots to within an 
iDch of the top, and to lay on it common 
coarse-grained salt, to the depth of i or | 
inch, and then to cover the pot up with any 
flat article that may be convenient. The salt, 
by long keeping, will run to brine, and form a 
layer on the top of the butter, -which will 
effectually keep out the air, and may at any 
time be very easily removed by tm-ning the 
pot on one side. 

1624. To Preserve Butter Sweet. 
To every 20 pounds of butter take 3 pounds 
salt, 1 pound loaf sugar, J pound pulverized 
saltpetre ; mix, and put a layer of butter 
about 8 inches thick, then sprinkle on a light 
covering of the above preparation alternately, 
until your cask is fuU. Pack in air-ti ght casks. 
Butter packed in this way will keep sweet for 
2 or 3 years. 

1625. To Restore Rancid Butter. 
Eancid butter may be restored by uielting it 
in a water-bath with some fresh-burnt and 
coarsely powdered animal charcoal (which has 
been thoroughly freed from dust by sifting) and 
straining it through clean flannel. A better 
and less troublesome method is to well wash 
the butter, first with good new milk, and next 
with cold spring water. Butyric acid, on the 
presence of which rancidity depends, is freely 
soluble in fresh milk. 

1626. To Improve Strong Butter. 
This operation is extremely simple and prac- 
ticable ; it consists in beating the butter in a 
sufficient quantity of water, in which put 25 
to 30 drops chloride of lime to 2 pounds of 
butter. After having mixed it till all its parts 
are in contact with the water, it may be left 
in it for 1 or 2 hours, afterwards withdrawn, 
and washed in fresh water. The chloride af 
lime, having nothing injurious in it, can with 
safety be augmented ; but it will generally be 
found that 12 to 14 drops to a pound of butter 
are sufficient. Butter, the taste and odor of 
which were insupportable, has been sweetened 
by this simple means. TTe have tried the 
above receipt, and find that the chloride re- 
moves the rancid taste of the butter, making 
it suitable for cooking, but scarcely purified 
enough for table use. 

1627. To Preserve Milk. The follow 
ing receipt appears in Cosmos* '"'To every 
liter (about 1 quart) of unskimmed milk, 
previously poured mto a well-annealed glass 
bottle, add 40 centigrammes (about 6 grains) 
of bicarbonate of soda. Place the bottle 
(which must be well corked) contaimng the 
milk for about 4 hours in a water-bath, heated 
to 194^ Fahr. On being taken out, the bottle 
is to be varnished over with tar ; and in that 
state the milk contained in it will keep sound 
and sweet for several weeks." 



168 



PBESEBVATIVES, 



1628. To Keep Milk Sweet. A tea- 
gpoonfui of fine salt or horse-radish in a pan 
of milk will keep it sweet for several days. 
Milk can be kept a year or more as sweet as 
when taken from the cow by the following 
method : Procm'e bottles, which mnst be per- 
fectly clean, sweet, and dry ; draw the milk 
from the cow into the bottles, and as they are 
filled, immediately cork them well, and fasten 
the cork with pack-thread or wire. Then 
spread a little straw in the bottom of a boiler, 
on which place the bottles, with straw be- 
tween them, nntil the boiler contains a suffi- 
cient quantity. Fill it up with cold water, 
and as soon as it begins to boil, draw the fire 
-ind let the whole cool gradually. When 
quite cold, take out the bottles and pack them 
in sawdust in hampers, and stow them away 
in the coolest part of the house. 

1629. Preservation of Eggs. When 
newly laid, eggs are almost perfectly full, 
but the shell is porous, and the watery por- 
tion of its contents begins to evaporate through 
its pores the moment it is exposed to the air, 
so that the eggs become lighter every day. 
To preserve the interior of the egg in its 
natural state, it is necessary to seal up the 
pores of the shell air-tight. This may be 
done by dipping them in melted suet, olive 
^»il, milk of lime, solution of gum-araliic, or 
covering them with any ah-proof varnish. 
They are then packed in bran, oats, meal, salt, 
ashes, or charcoal powder. 

1630. To Preserve Eggs. Tegetable 
oils, more especially linseed, simply rubbed 
on to the egg, hinders any alteration for a 
sufficiently long period, and presents a very 
simple and efficacious method. We believe 
that two coatings of collodion should preserve 
eggs better than any other method that has 
yet been suggested. Or perhaps a single 
coating of paraffine might be equallj^ efi'ective. 

1631. To Distinguish Good Eggs. 
To ascertain whether an egg is good or bad, 
hold it up to the light. A good egg is trans- 
lucent, but a bad one is perfectly opaque ; the 
difiference is as easily perceived as that be- 
tween a blue egg and a white one. 

1632. To Preserve by Alcohol. 
Strong alcoholic liquors are used to prevent 
decomposition in both vegetable and animal 
bodies. They penetrate the substances, com- 
bine with its juices, and as the organic tissues 
have less attraction for the spirituous mixture, 
it escapes ; and the tissues themselves shrink 
and harden in the same way as when salted. 
Alcohol also obstructs change by seizing upon 
the oxygen in the atmosphere, in virtue of its 
superior attraction for that gas, thus prevent- 
ing it from acting upon the substance to be 
preserved. 

1633. German Soup Tablets. Eeinsch 
gives the following receipt for making the 
soup tablets so much in use in the German 
army during the late war : Take 11 parts by 
weight of good suet, melt it an iron pan, and 
make it very hot, so as to become brown; 
add, while keeping the fat stirred, 18 parts 
rye meal, and continue heating and stirring so 
as to make the mass brown ; add then 4 parts 
dried salt and 2 parts coarsely pulverized 
caraway seed. The miixture is then poured 
into tin pans somewhat hke those used for 
making chocolate into cakes. The cakes 



have the appearance of chocolate, and are 
chiefly intended for the use of soldiers while 
in the field. A quantity of about 1 ounce oi 
this preparation is sufficient to yield, when 
boiled with some water, a ratijon of good soup, 
and, in case of need, the cakes, being agreea« 
ble to the taste, may be eaten raw. 

1634. To Can Fresh Fruit. Procure 
a sufficient number of tin cans of suitable size, 
fill them quite full with the fruit, and solder 
them securely. jSText pierce a small pin-hole 
in the top of each can, to allow the air to be 
expelled ; place the cans in a boiler as deep as 
the cans are high, pour boiling water into the 
boiler until within ^ inch of the top of the 
cans; keep the water hot over a moderate 
fire, but not boiling, until the air ceases to 
escape from the cans, and then seal the air 
holes with solder before removing the cans 
from the water. The cans should then be 
taken out, wiped dry, and allowed to cool; 
when cold, if the cans have been closed per- 
fectly air-tight, the vacuum inside will cause 
the top and bottom of the cans to become 
concave or hollowed inwards. {See No. 1611.) 
Tomatoes are also kept fresh in this manner. 

1635. To Insure Success in Canning 
Fruit. Select fresh fruit that is perfectly 
ripe; but, at the same time, perfectly sound. 
One unsound berry may injure all in contact 
with it. 

The boiling water poured into the boiler 
will be considerably cooled by contact with 
the cans ; care must be taken not to let the 
water return to the boil while the cans are in 
it; and yet it must become hot enough to 
expel the air from the cans. 

The surest way to attain the desired object 
is to keep the bulb of a thennometer in the 
water. A heat of 200° to 208° Fahr. will 
answer best, but it must never exceed the 
latter degree. To ascertain when all the air 
possible has been expelled, put one drop of 
hot water on the air hole ; the cessation or 
absence of air bubbles passing through it will 
denote that the cans are ready for final sealing. 

1636. To Can Berries. Peaches, ap- 
ples, pears, plums, &g., can be kept perfectly 
fresh in tin cans in the manner described in 
JSTo. 1634, and will retain their fresh flavor 
almost, if not entirely, intact. Easpberries, 
strawberries, (fee, are kept in better condition 
by adding k pound white sugar to each pound 
of fruit, letting them come to the boil, and 
then filling the cans quite full, soldering the 
lid of the can immediately. The hot fruit 
will, to all intents, expel the air from the can. 
N^o water should be used with fruits, except 
in cases where a little is necessary to dissolve 
the sugar, as it tends to render them insipid. 
Most vegetables can be kept in cans in this 
way, omitting the sugar, and scalding them in 
water sufficient to cover them. 

1637. To Expel the Air from Cans. 
Air, by heating, expands many times its own 
bulk; consequently, if you take a jar and 
cover it tightly with the exception of a hole 
the size of a pin through the cover, and set it 
in boiling water, as air expands 20 times its 
bulk by heating, it is obvious that ^o of the air 
pases out through the pin hole in the cover ; 
now drop a little sealing wax or solder over 
the pin hole and you have but -^g of the air 
in the jar that was in it before heating it» Of 



PBESEBVATIVES. 



169 



course the fruit and syrap, if put into the I cloudy and stormy days, they can be brought 
jar cold, displaces most of the air; but putting | into the house, and set against the side of the 
vt in as hot as it can be, and filling as full as room near the stove or fire-place, 
possible, expels the air to all intents and pur- j 1641. To Keep Apples and Pears 
poses. Cans managed in this "svay, when ; Fresh. Gather the fruit during a dry day, 
made of sheet metal, frequently collapse from ! and put it at once into earthen glazed pans, 
outside atmospheric pressure as they cool ofi", deep enough to contain two or three layers of 



showing that the exhaustion was complete ; 
even more so than needed. 

1638. To Keep Fruit Fresh in Jars. 
Use only self-sealing glass jars. Put into a 
porcelain-lined preserving kettle, enough to 
fill 2 quart jars; sprinkle on sugar, ^ pound ; 
place over a slow fire and heat through, not 
boiled. ^WTiile the fruit is being heated, keep 
the jars filled with moderately hot water. As 
soon as the fruit is ready, empty the water 
from the jars, fill to the brim with fruit, and 
seal immediately. As it cools a vacuum is 
formed, which prevents bursting. In this 
way every kind of fruit will retain its flavor. 
Sometimes a thick leathery mould forms on 
the top — if so, all the better. The plan of 
keeping the jars full of hot water is merely to 
prevent the danger of cracking when the hot 
fruit is inserted. Some prefer to set the bottles 
^ull of cool water in a boiler of water and 
heating all together gradually ; but the other 
way is much simpler and equally efi'ective. 

1639. To Can Peaches by the Cold 
Process. Pare and halve the peaches. 
Pack them as closely as possible in a can 
without any sugar. TThen the can is full, 
pour in sufficient pm-e cold water to fill all 
the interstices between the peaches, and reach 
the brim of the can. Let it stand long enough 
for the water to soak into all the crevices — 



fruit, and each pan having a tightly-fitting 
lid. If the fruit sweats, the exudation dries 
on the fruit's surface, and helps to keep in 
the moisture and flavor. The cover helps to do 
the same, and to exclude the light. Keep the 
pans in a dry, cool place, and never wipe the 
fruit until required for dessert. Pears may 
be kept in the same way, but require careful 
and constant watching. 

1642. To Keep Fruit Fresh. After 
they have been allowed to lay on the shelves 
in the fruit-room, and sweat, they should be 
wiped dry, and packed in boxes with dry saw- 
dust enough to exclude the air from them. 
The saw-dust from resinous woods should not 
be used. If they were packed in dry sand, 
they would keep equally, and perhaps better ; 
but the objection is that it is very difficult to 
clean them from sand, and therefore they 
always eat gritty when so kept. 

1643. Preservation of Fruit in Gly- 
cerine. Glycerine of purest quality has 
been recommended for the preservation of 
fruits ; previous to eating which, the glycerine 
should be removed by immersing the fruit in 
water. 

1644. To Restore and Improve Mus- 
ty Flour. Carbonate of magnesia, 3 parts ; 
flour, 760 parts. Mix and use the flour in the 
usual way. This will not only greatly im- 



say gix hours — then pour in water to replace ' prove bad floui', but the bread will be much 
vrhat has sunk away. Seal up the can, and ! lighter, more wholesome, and keep longer 



all is done. Canned in this way, peaches re- 
tain all their freshness and flavor. There will 
not be enough water in them to render them 
iusipid. If preferred, a cold syrap could be 
used instead of pure water, but the peaches 
taste most natural without any sweetening. 

1640. To Dry Apples, Pears and 
other Fruits. Have a frame made in the 
following manner : — Two strips of board 7 
feet long, 2 or 2^ inches wide — two strips 3 
feet long, I5 inches wide, the whole f of an 
inch thick; nail the long strips across the 
ends of the short ones, and it makes a frame 
7 by 3 feet, which is a convenient size for all 
purposes. On one of the long strips, nails are 
driven 3 inches apart, extending from one end 
to the other. After the apples are pared, 
they are quartered and cored, and with a 
needle and twine, or stout thread, strung into 
lengths long enough to reach twice acro'ssthe 
frame; the ends of the twine are then tied 
together, and the strings hung on the nails 
across the frame. The apples will soon dry 
so that the strings can be doubled on the nails, 
and fresh ones put on, or the whole of them 
removed and others put in their place. As 
fast as the apples become sufficiently dry they 
can be taken from the strings, and the same 
strings used to dry more on. If large apples 
are used to dry, they can be cut in smaller 
pieces. Pears and quinces, and other fruits 
that can be strung, may be dried in this way. 
In pleasant weather the frames can be set 
out of doors against the side of the building, 
or any other support, and at night, or on 



than when alum is used. 

1645. To Keep Game. ISTewly ground 
coff'ee, sprinkled over game, will keep it sweet 
and fresh for several days. Clean the game ; 
that is, wipe ofi" the blood, cover the wounded 
parts with absorbent paper, wrap up the 
heads, and then sprinkle ground cofifee over 
and amongst the feathers or fur, as the case 
may be ; pack up carefully, and the game 
will be preserved fresh and sweet in the most 
unfavorable weather. Game sent open and 
loose, cannot, of course, be treated in this 
manner; but all game packed in boxes or 
hampers may be deodorized as described. A 
tea-spoonful of cofi'ee is enough for a brace of 
birds ; and in this proportion for more or for 
larger game. 

1646. To Preserve with Creosote. 
Creosote, a pungent compound existing in 
common smoke, and which starts the tears 
when the smoke enters the eyes, is a powerful 
antiseptic, or preventer of putrefaction. It 
is employed to preserve animal substances, 
either by washing it over them or by immers- 
ing them in its aqueous solution."^ A few 
drops in a saucer, or on a piece of spongy 
paper, if placed in a larder, will effectually 
drive away insects, and make the meat keep 
several days longer than otherwise. By all 
the modes in which creosote has hitherto 
been employed in preserving meat, it has ac- 
quired a disagreeable taste and smell. This 
may be obviated by placing a small plate con- 
taining a little creosote immediately under 
each piece of meat as it hangs in the larder. 



170 



SOLUTIONS FOB ANATOMICAL PBEPABATIONS. 



and covering them botli ovei with, a cloth. A 
small quantity added to brine or vinegar is 
commonly employed to impart a smoky flavor 
to meat and fish, and its solution in acetic acid 
is used to give the flavor of Scotch whiskey 
to plain sphit. The preservative eflect of 
smoke-drying is partially due to creosote, 
"which gives to the meat its peculiar smoky 
taste, and partly to desiccation. 

1647. To Test Creosote. A large pro- 
portion of ordinary creosote is simply car- 
bolic acid; but the pure creosote, which 
constitutes the peculiar smell of smoke, is 
quite a different substance, and may be dis- 
tinguished from the false by its behavior with 
collodion. A mixture of this latter with 
carbolic acid gives a gelatinous precipitate, 
while with true creosote the collodion remains 
clear. Dr. Hager gives another test : To a 
weak solution of iron, a few drops of ammonia 
are added, until the precipitate which origi- 
nally forms is dissolved. Carbolic acid com- 
municates a blue or violet tinge to the solu- 
tion, while genuine creosote gives a green 
color, afterward turning to brown. 

1648. Charcoal as an Antiseptic. It 
is well known that charcoal possesses extra- 
ordinary powers in checking decomposition, 
as well as in deodorizing animal substances 
which have already begun to undergo change. 
Meat, either before or after it is cooked, may be 
preserved for a considerable time, even in warm 
weather, by being placed in the centre of a 
clean earthenware vessel, and closely sur- 
rounded with pieces of common charcoal. To 
prevent the flies from ''blowing" the meat, 
the vessel ought to be covered with wire- 
gauze. Putrid water is immediately deprived 
of its bad smell by charcoal. When meat, 
fish, &c, from intense heat or long keeping, 
are likely to pass into a state of corruption, a 
simple mode of keeping them sound and 
healthful is by putting a few pieces of char- 
coal, each about the size of an egg, into the 
pot or saucepan wherein the fish or flesh is to 
be boiled. 

1649. Caution About Charcoal, it 
must be recollected that in all cases, to exer- 
cise its highest powers as a disinfectant, 
deodorizer, and bleacher, charcoal should be 
both fresh-burnt and fresh-powdered, and 
carefully preserved out of contact with the 
air, until about to be employed. Exposed to 
the air, it rapidly loses its valuable quahties. 

1650. To Prevent Water From Pu- 
trefying. Keep it in an iron vessel, or 
immerse fragments of iron in it. Distilled 
water should be kept in stoppered glass 
bottles. 



Solntions for Anatomical 
Preparations. These antisep- 
tic fluids are used for preserving anatomical 
preparations, objects of natural history, <fec., 
by immersing them therein, or by injection 
into the veins and arteries, arresting putrefac- 
tion, and preventing decay. Those containing 
con-osive sublimate (bichloride of mercury) 
are apt to render animal substances very hard. 
1653. Creosote Antiseptic Solution. 
ISTearly saturate water with sulphurous acid, 
and add a little creosote. 



1653. Chloride of Tin Antiseptic So- 
lution. Dissolve 4 parts chloride of tin in. 
100 parts water containing 3 parts muriatic 
(hydrochloric) acid. 

1654. Antiseptic Solution of Ammo- 
nia. Mix 1 part, by weight, strong liquor of 
ammonia, with 3 parts water and 3 parts rec- 
tified spirit. Or: — 1 part sal ammoniac and 
10 or 11 parts water ; for the muscular parts of 
animals. A solution of 1 part sulphate of 
zinc in about 20 parts water may also be used 
for the same purpose. 

1655. Babington's Antiseptic Solu- 
tion. 1 part of wood naphtha to 7 parts 
water. Wood naphtha undiluted serves for 
injection. 

1656. Burnett's Antiseptic Solution. 
1 pound chloride of zinc in 1 gallon water. The 
substance is immersed in this for 2 to 4 days, 
and then dried in the air. 

1657. Gannal's Antiseptic Mixture. 
Dissolve 5 pound each alum and table salt, 
and i pound saltpetre, in 1 gallon water. 

1658. R6boulet's Antiseptic. For 
pathological specimens. Dissolve 1 part 
nitre (saltpetre), 2 parts alum, and 4 parts 
chloride of lime in 16 to 20 parts water. To 
be afterwards diluted according to circum- 
stances. 

1659. Thwaites' Fluid. Mix 1 ounce 
spirit of wine with creosote sufficient to satu- 
rate it; rub up with chalk to form a thin 
paste, and mix gradually with 16 ounces water. 
To this may be added an equal quantity of 
water saturated with camphor. 

1660. Simple Creosote Solution. Dis- 
solve 1 drachm creosote in 1 drachm pyrolig- 
neous acid, and mix gradually with 1 pint cold 
water. 

1661. Passini's Solution. For blood- 
globules, nerves, and white tissues generally. 
Chloride of mercury, 1 part ; chloride of so- 
dium, 2 parts; glycerine, 13 parts; distilled 
water, 113 parts. 

1662. Preservative Fluids for Micro- 
scopic Objects. Canada balsam, spirit and 
water, glycerine solution of gelatine, saturated 
solutions of alum, chloride of zinc, and chloride 
of calcium, are all used to preserve microscopic 
objects. 

1663. Solution for Preserving Feath- 
ers. Dissolve 16 grains strychnine in 1 pint 
rectified spirit. 

1 664. Corrosive Sublimate Antiseptic 
Solution. Dissolve 1 part corrosive subli- 
mate (bichloride of mercury), and 3 parts 
chloride of sodium (table salt), in 100 parts 
water containing 2 parts muriatic (hydro- 
chloric) acid. 

1 665. Goadby's Antiseptic Solutions. 
2 ounces bay salt, 1 ounce alum, 1 grain 
bichloride of mercury (corrosive sublimate), 
and 1 pint of water."^ This is good for ordi- 
nary purposes. But for tender tissues, or 
where there is a tendency to mouldiness, 
double the proportions of corrosive sublimate 
and of water. For subjects containing car- 
bonate of lime, double the proportion of bay 
salt, and omit the alum. 

Or : — f pound bay salt, 10 grains arsenious 
acid, and 1 pint water ; adding 1 gi-ain corro- 
sive sublimate when there is any tendency to 
softening in the parts of the subject. These 
are excellent antiseptic solutions. 



TO PBESEBVE WOOD. 



171 



1666. Embalming. Mix together 5 
pounds dry sulphate of alumina, 1 quart warm 
water, and 100 grains arsenious acid. Inject 
3 or 4 quarts of this mixture into all the ves- 
sels of the human body. This applies as well 
to all animals, birds, fishes, &c. This process 
supersedes the old and revolting mode, and 
has been introduced into the great anatomical 
schools of Paris. 

1667. Preparation for Stuflang Birds 
iiEtnd. Animals. Camphor, 1 ounce ; corrosive 
'■sublimate, 1 ounce ; alum, \ ounce ; sulphur, 

1 ounce ; all finely powdered and mixed. 

1668. Antiseptic for Preserving 
Birds and Animals. The simplest means 
of preserving anatomical and pathological 
preparations is the use of the following solu- 
tion : Saturated solution of alum, 100 parts ; 
saltpetre, 2 parts. The article to be preserved 
js immersed in the solution, when it becomes 
decolorized ; but in a few days the color re- 
turns, when it is taken out of the solution, 
and kept in a saturated solution of alum and 
water only. 

1669. B6coeur's Arsenical Soap, 
Camphor, 5 drachms ; arsenic, 4 ounces ; 
white soap, 4 ounces ; carbonate of potash, 12 
ounces; air-slaked lime, 4 ounces; make a 
stiff paste with a little water. Used for pre- 
paring the skins of birds and other small 
animals. 

1670. B6cceur's Fluid Arsenical Soap. 
This is prepared as follows : — Cut 1 pound 
soap into thin slices, put it with a little 
water into a pot upon the fire, stirring fre- 
quently with a wooden spoon until dissolved; 
add 6 ounces carbonate of potassa and 2 
ounces chalk. Then take it off the fire, and 
add 1 pound arsenious acid, stirring it in 
thoroughly ; lastly, pound 3 ounces camphor 
in a mortar with a little alcohol, and incorpo- 
rate it with the rest of the ingredients. This 
makes a composition of a consistence of paste. 
"When required for use, dissolve 2 ounces in a 
pint of alcohol, and apply with a brush. 

1671. Laurent's Antiseptic Soap. 
Place 3 ounce powdered soap in a bottle with 

2 drachms each of arsenite of potassa, sul- 
phate of alumina, and pulverized camphor; 
pour upon them 6 ounces alcohol, and allow 
them to stand 24 hours. "When thoroughly 
combined, add 3 drops oil of thyme, and cork 
the bottle carefully. 

1672. Beconi's Arsenical Soap. Ar- 
senious acid, 32 ounces; carbonate of potassa, 
12 ounces ; camphor, 5 ounces ; white soap, 
32 ounces ; powdered lime, 8 ounces. Eeduce 
each to a powder, and mix. Used as a pre- 
servative for specimens of natural history 
against the attacks of insects. 

1673. Carbolic Acid as a Preserva- 
tive. Reference has been made in some of 
the scientific journals to experiments upon 
carbolic acid as a means of preserving objects 
of natural history, and the anticipation has 
l)een indulged in by many that this powerful 
agent may be able to replace all the ordinary 
methods of taxidenny. This, however, is a 
very great mistake, since it can be used to 
a small extent only in the preparation of en- 
tire bodies of animals that are to be preserved 
dry — because the process of desiccation will 
inevitably proceed until the original form of 
the animal is entirely lost. For many purposes, 



however, carbolic acid has proved of much value 
as a preservative, and its uses are increasing. 
Thus, diluted with about 50 times its bulk of 
water, it forms a capital substitute for alcohol 
in preserving fish and other objects ; and, in 
fact, the larger fish, such as rays, sharks, etc., 
can be kept much better by its aid than even 
by means of alcohol. Added in small quan- 
tity to very weak spirit, it very materially 
increases its preservative stren^'th. 

1674. Carbolic Acid as a Temporary 
Preservative. Although carboHo acid can- 
not be used as a substitute for the xisual 
methods in setting up birds and mamira!«, it 
can be employed to very great advantage in 
keeping them fresh until they can be prtp-^rly 
skinned. An experiment of this kind was 
once made by Dr, Totten, of IsTew York, ■v\ho 
prepared a solution of 1 drachm of carboL'c 
acid, li ounces each of glycerine and dilute 
alcohol, and injected it into the mouth, the 
rectum, and under the skin of a large cormo- 
rant. The bird was kept on board ship antil 
it reached New York, a period of about two 
months after its capture, and was then sent to 
a taxidermist, who found it to be i'U perfect 
condition, and who was able to mount it as 
satisfactorily as if it had been but just killed, 

1675. Von Vetter's Process for the 
Preservation of Anatomical Specimens. 
Add to 7 parts of glycerine at 22° Baume, 
1 part raw brown sugar and \ part nitre, till 
a slight deposit is formed at the bottom of the 
vessel. The portion required to be preserved 
is then immersed (dried or not dried) and left 
in the mixture for a time proportional to its 
dimensions; a hand, for example, should re- 
main eight days in the liquid; when it is 
taken out it is as stiff as a piece of wood, but 
if it be suspended in a dry and warm place 
the muscles and articulation recover their 
suppleness. 

1676. Preserving Insects. A good 
way to render insects durable is to perforate 
their bodies once or twice with a long pin 
dipped in a strong solution of corrosive subli- 
mate. If you have cases full, clean the in- 
sects and cases as thoroughly as possible, 
paint the inside of the cases over with a brush 
dipped into a solution of the sublimate, and 
after putting a few pieces of camphor at the 
bottom of the case, fix the lid on, and paste a 
strip of paper over the crevices. 



TO Preserve "Wood. , The 
following receipts for preserving timber 
from decay have been obtained from various 
sources, and are the results of careful experi- 
ment bv scientific experts. 

1678. To Prevent the Splitting of 
Logs and Planks. Logs and planks split 
at the ends because the exposed surface dries 
faster than the inside. Saturate muriatic acid 
with lime, and apply like whitewash to the 
ends. The chloride of calcium formed attracts 
moisture from the air and prevents the split- 
ting. Tobacconists' signs, and other wooden 
images, have usually a hole bored through 
their centre, from top to bottom ; this in a 
great measure prevents the outer surface from 
cracking, by allowing the wood to dry and 
shrink more uniformly. 



172 



MIXTURES FOB FREEZING 



Nitrate 
Water 



of 



Mixtures. 

Ammonia, 



Dilute Nitric Acid 4 

Sulphate of Soda 8 

Hydrocliloric Acid 5 

Sulphate of Soda 5 

Diluted Sulphuric Acid, 4 

Sulphate of Soda 6 

Miiriate of Ammonia. . 4 

Nitrate of Potash 2 

Diluted Nitric Acid — 4 

Sulphate of Soda 6 

Nitrate of Ammonia. : . 5 
Diluted Nitric Acid 4 



1688. 



Mixtures. 



1679. To Preserve Timber from 
Decay and Dry-Rot. The best way to 
preserve timber exposed to the action of the 
weather is to force into the pores of well-sea- 
soned wood as much carbolic acid, or creosote, 
as possible. This soon resinifies, and most 
effectually prevents the timber from dry-rot 
and decay. On a large scale, as for railway 

sleepers, expensive appliances are needed ;i Muriate of Ammonia. 5 
but for barns or outbuildings it may be applied! Nitrate of Potash. ....'! 5 

to considerable advantage by the use of aVw^ter 16 

paint brush. Muriate of Ammonia.. 5 

1680. Solution to Preserve Wood.^^^^iJ|tfo?s*^^^^^ I 

With e very 25 gallons of water required, mix \water ! ! ." ' le 

5 pounds chloride of zinc. Wood steeped in/guipiiate of Soda. 3 

this solution will effectually resist dry-rot. ( \ Diluted Nitric Acid. ...2 

1681. To Kyanize Wood or Cordage./^ Nitrate of Ammonia.. 1 
Immerse the wood or cordage in a solution of I carbonate of Soda. ... 1 

50 or 60 parts water and 1 part corrosive i ^**®^ •• • ••• ^ 

sublimate. This preserves it from decay, and S^,''^^^^*!.^^ f"".^- • • • ^ 

, T, K -, -i-rr^ ij J -^ ' ^^, ^ Dilute Mi^i^ Ar.i/1 

renders wood tough and more difficult to split.^ 

1682. To Preserve and Harden 

"Wood. Wood steeped in a solution of cop-' 

peras becomes harder and more indestructible. 

1683. German Receipt for Coating 
"Wood with a Substance as Hard as 
Stone. Melt together 40 parts chalk, 50 
resin, and 4 linseed oil; to this should be 
added 1 part oxide of copper, and afterwards 
1 part sulphuric acid. This last ingredient 
must be added carefully. The mixture, while 
hot, is applied with a brush, and forms, when 
dry, a varnish as hard as stone. This is an 
excellent application to protect posts, tubs, 
or other wooden articles which are set in the 
earth. 

1684. To Preserve Wood Under Wa- 
ter. "Wood impregnated with creosote oil 
has been found to resist effectually the ravages 
of the teredo worm; this worm being the 
cause of decay by honey-combing the entire 
substance of the wood. In Germany chloride 
of zinc is used for this purpose, the timber be- 
ing placed in boilers, partly exhausted of 
air, and the vapor of chlorine thus driven in- 
to it. These remedies are recommended by 
a committee of practical experts, appointed by 
the Academy of Sciences in Holland to ascer- 
tain the best means for preserving timber un- 
der water. 

1685. Preservation of Wood. Ar- 
mand Muller has instituted some interesting 
experiments upon this subject, and arrives at 
the conclusion that the phosphate of baryta, 
formed by the mutual decomposition of phos- 
phate of soda and chloride of barium, in the 
pores of the wood, is one of the best preservative 
agents available to chemists. Soak the wood 
5 days in a 7 per cent, solution of phosphate 
of soda, and after drying, suspend in a 13 per 
cent solution of chloride of barium for 7 
days. It is believed that wood thus prepared 
will withstand the action of moisture better 
than with any other preparation. The chief 
obstacle to the use of such chemicals is in 
their cost. 

1686. To Petrify Wooden Objects. 
Take equal quantities of gem-salt, rock-alum, 
white vinegar, chalk and pebbles, powdered. 
Mix all these ingredients; ebullition will ensue. 
After it has ceased, throw some wooden ob- 
jects into this liquid, and let them soak for 4 
or 5 days, at the end of which time they will 
be transformed into petrifactions. 



Mixtures for Freezina; 
^ . without Ice. In the fof- 
lowmg table, the water should not be warmer 
than 50° Fahrenheit. 



part. 



Fahrenheit Degrees 

Thermometer of Cold 

Sinks from . Produced 

50° to 4° 46' 



■:■! 



50° to 10° 4or 



50° to 4° . 



.46' 



50° to —3°. 



.53* 



50° to —7° 



.57' 



50° to —12°. 



50° toO° ...50* 

50° to 3° 47° 



50° to —10° 60* 



50° to— 14° 64* 



Table of Freezing Mixtures 
with. Snow. 



Fahrenheit Degree* 
Thermometer of Cold 
Sinks from Produced 



parts, 



•J 32° to —23° 



32° to —27°. 



32° to —30° 



to— 40° 



32° to —50° 



Snow 3 

Diluted Sulphuric Acid, 2 

Snow 8 

Muriatic Acid 5 

Snow 7 

Dilute Nitric Acid 4 

Snow 4 

Muriate of Lime 5 

Snow 2 

Crys'd Miiriate of Lime, 3 

Snow 3 

Potash 4 

1 689. Freezing Mixtures with Pound- 
ed Ice or Snow. The following mixtures 
reduce the temperature down to a certain 
degree of cold, irrespective of the tempera- 
ture of the materials at mixing. 



.82* 



32° to —51°. 



Mixtures. 



Fahr. Ther- 
mometer 
Sinks. 



to -12' 



to —18* 



to --25* 



Snow, or Pounded Ice 2 parts. 

Muriate of Soda 1 " 

Snow, or Pounded Ice 5 " 

Muriate of Soda 2 " 

Muriate of Ammonia 1 " 

Snow, or Pounded Ice, 24 " 

Muriate of Soda 10 " 

Muriate of Ammonia 5 " 

Nitrate of Potash 5 " 

Snow, or Pounded Ice 12 " 

Muriate of Soda 5 " 

Nitrate of Ammonia 5 " 

Snow, or Pounded Ice 2 " 

Common Table Salt, or Rock Salt. .1 " 

1690. Metallic Freezing Mixture. 

An interesting experiment may be made by 
melting together 59 parts tin, 1035 lead, and 
183 bismuth. If this be finely rasped or 
powdered, and introduced into 108 parts, by 
weight, of quicksilver, a thennometer im- 
mersed in the mixture will sink to nearly 3^ 
Fahr. ; and water placed in a thin test-tube, 



to 



DISINFECTANTS. 



173 



and allowed to remain for a few minutes in 
this bath, will be completely frozen. 
1691. How to Keep Ice in Summer. 

No refrigerator or ice-box will prevent, or even 
retard the melting of the ice, which does not 
combine the following conditions: It must 
have double sides, bottom, and lid, with the 
space between the two casings filled witb 
some non-conducting substance, in order to 
exclude the external temperature ; and the 
i^ner lid or cover should be practically, if not 
hermetically, air-tight, in furtherance of the 
same result. If external air enters, it will 
bring its own temperature with it. There 
should be also a drainage-pipe at the bottom 
to carry off, instantaneously, every drop of 
water formed by the melting of the ice, and 
this pipe should either be fitted with a trap or 
curved in such a manner as to prevent the 
cold air from escaping. It is even more indis- 
pensable to carry off every drop of the water 
than it is to exclude the air — a view not 
generally entertained by consumers of the 
article, but which, according to experiments 
made, seems to be fally demonstrated. Thus, 
on exposing a piece of ice weighing, say 25 
pounds, to the air, at a temperature of 75°, but 
so placed that it is perfectly drained, it will be 
fouad to have scarcely disappeared at the end 
of 24 hours. Wrap the same piece in 3 or 4 
thicknesses of blanket or flannel, and place it 
in a small tub exposed to the same tempera- 
tare, and as the water filters through the 
blanket, the ice will stand in its own water, and 
will be all dissolved in 5 or 6 hours. TVrap 
the same piece of ice carefully in a blanket, 
and place it on a grating, or on four crossed 
sticks, so that no water can accumulate under- 
neath, and at the end of 3 or even 4 days it 
will not have entirely melted. 



Disinfectants are substances 
which absorb, neutralize or destroy 
patrescent effluvia and miasmata, and thus 
remove the causes of infection. The princi- 
pal disinfectants are chlorine, the chlorides 
(hypochlorites) of lime and soda, chloride of 
zinc, charcoal, carbolic acid, the fumes of 
nitric, nitrous, and sulphurous acids, and ven- 
tilation. The clothing, bedding, cfec, of pa- 
tients laboring under contagious diseases, 
may be effectually disinfected by exposing to 
a temperature of about that of boiling water, 
i^either the texture nor color of textile fabrics 
is injured even by a heat of 250° Fahr. It 
is a practice at some of the poorhouses to 
bake the clothes of the paupers who have the 
itch, or are infested with vermin. QuickUme 
rapidly absorbs carbonic acid, sulphuretted 
hydrogen, and several other noxious gases, 
and is therefore commonly used as a wash for 
the walls of buildings. Acetic acid, camphor, 
fragrant pastils, cascarilla, and other similar 
substances, are frequently burnt or volatilized 
by heat, for the purpose of disguising un- 
pleasant odors. The chlorides as well as the 
sulphates of iron and lime have the property 
of rapidly destroying noxious effluvia. A 
quantity of either of these sulphates thrown j 
into a cesspool, for instance, will in a few 
hours remove the fetid smell. • ' 



1693. Metropolitan Disinfecting 
Fluid. The Board of Health of the city of 
New York have recommended a disinfecting 
fluid composed of sesqui chloride of iron, 
chloride of manganese, chlorine, and car- 
bolic acid. The sesquichloride of iron has 
been found by experiment to deodorize more 
effectually than chloride of lime, sulphate of 
zinc, or other disinfectants. It is therefore 
recommended as an important constituent of 
any disinfectant. Sesquichloride of iron is 
prepared by dissolving the hydrated sesquiox- 
ide of iron in muriatic acid ; to this is added 
10 per cent, of carbolic acid. This forms the 
fluid in a concentrated foim, and is largely 
dOuted with water at the time of using. All 
night scavengers are compelled by the Board 
of Health of New York to use it. Its effects 
are compound. The iron checks fermenta- 
tion, and the chlorine acts as an oxidizing 
agent. Its carbolic acid also aids in arresting 
decomposition and fermentation, and the 
whole combination, therefore, by its chemical 
action, decomposes the sulphuretted hy- 
drogen. 

1694. To Disinfect Stables and 
Slaughter-Houses. Dr. Letherby, Health 
officer of the city of London, says in a recent 
report on the subject, that the best disinfect- 
ant for stables and slaughter-houses is a 
mixed chloride and hypochlorite of zinc, and 
it has the advantage of mixing freely with 
the liquid matters of the slaughter-house, and 
not tainting the meat with any unpleasant 
odors ; and it is also applicable to the disin- 
fection of houses in place of chloride of lime, 
which it much resembles in its chemical na- 
ture and mode of action. 

1695. Burnett's Disinfecting Fluid. 
A solution of chloride of zinc, made by dis- 
solving zinc in commercial muriatic acid to 
saturation, and known as Sir "William Bur- 
nett's Disinfecting Fluid, has been found 
most useful as a purifying agent, and in re- 
moving and destroying contagion. In puri- 
fying sick rooms or crowded places the solu- 
tion should be moistened by means of a piece 
of flannel cloth, about 3 or 4 feet square, 
attached to a long rod and waved through the 
air for 10 minutes at a time; in addition to 
which the floor should be mopped or sprinkled 
over with the same dilute solution, if neces- 
sary, several times a day, and a small quantity 
put into the close-stools and bed-pans. The 
water-closets should also be cleansed with it, 
and 2 gallons occasionally thrown down each. 
When floors and woodwork are washed with 
the solution, the use of soap or soda should 
be avoided immediately before or after its ap- 
plication; and whitewashing should not be 
applied to any part recently washed or 
sprinkled with it. 

1696. To Purify a Sick Chamber. 
The nitrous acid vapor, so invaluable as a dis- 
infectant in contagious fevers, is obtained by 
decomposing nitre by means of heated sulphur- 
ic acid, in the following manner : Put ^ ounce 
sulphuric acid in a crucible glass or china cup 
and warm it over a lamp or in heated sand, 
adding to it from time to time a little nitre. 
Several of these vessels must be placed in the 
sick chamber and in the neighboring apart- 
ments and passages, at a distance of 20 feet 
or more from each other, according to the 



174. 



DISINFE C TA NTS. 



height of the ceiling and the virnlence of the 
contagion. As an evidence of the value of 
this method of disinfection it may be men- 
tioned that Dr. CaiTaichael Smyth, of London, 
by whom it was originally practiced, received 
from Parliament a premium of £5,000 for his 
discovery. 

1697. Hyponitrous Acid as a Disin- 
fectant. A special commission was ap- 
pointed by the Academy of Sciences at Paris, 
to study the different means of disinfecting 
those localities which, dming the siege, had 
been appropriated to persons afflicted vnth 
contagious diseases. Its report furnishes 
some useful guides to the selection and the 
application of disinfectants. It was agreed 
that the very first place among destructive 
agents which can attack and destroy infec- 
tious germs, should be assigned to hyponi- 
trous acid. Great precaution should be exer- 
cised, however, by those emploA'ing the very 
dangerous nitrous vapors. 

1698. Carbolic Acid as a Disinfect- 
ant. The French commission {see ]So. 
1697) also reported that carbolic acid is much 
more easily applied, is less dangerous and ex- 
pensive than hyponitrous acid, and seems to 
offer guarantees of quite equal efficacy, 
founded on experimental evidence. It is best 
employed by mixing with sand or sawdust in 
the proportion of 1 part by weight of acid, 
and 3 parts of the inert material. The mix- 
ture is placed in earthen pots. Carbolic acid, 
diluted with 25 to 30 times its weight of 
water, has been found useful in sprinkling 
daily the floors and the bedding of sick cham- 
bers. It has been stated by M. Devergie, 
that water containing only the 40-00 pai't of 
its weight of carbolic acid sufficed for the 
disinfection of a dead-house during the hot- 
test weather, when it contained from 6 to 7 
bodies. 

1699. Collins' Disinfecting Po^vder. 
Mix 2 parts dry chloride of lime mth 1 of 
burnt alum. To be set in shallow dishes in 
rooms, &Q., with or without the addition of 
water. 

1700. Ellerman's Deodorizing Fluid. 
This consists chiefly of perchlorides and chlor- 
ides of iron and manganese. In a report ad- 
dressed to the Metropolitan Board of Works 
of London in 1859, Drs. Hoffman and Frank- 
land stated that the perchloride of iron was 
the cheapest and most efficient deodorizer that 
could be applied to sewage; i gallon deodor- 
ized 7500 gallons. 1 bushel lime, or 3 pounds 
chloride of lime, would do the same. 

1701. Condy's Solution. A saturated 
solution of permanganate of potassa is one 
of the most efficient and elegant of all disin- 
fectants. A tea-spoonful in a soup-plate of 
water, exposed in a room, quickly removes 
any offensive smell; when the pink color 
disappears more must be added. It has been 
used to remove the smell of bilge- water and 
guano from ships. • A word as to economy : 
One ounce of the crystallized salt costs about 
as much as a pound of the crude, which is 
just as good for deodorizing purposes. The 
crude gives a greenish solution, which, even 
while cold, but more rapidly and completely 
upon boiling, passes into the deep red so 
characteristic of the permanganate, and is 
fit for use. It speedily cleanses foul water 



and makes it drinkable. A tea-spuumul to a 
hogshead is generally enough, but if added 
until the water acquires a permanent faint 
tinge, we are certain that injurious organic 
matter has been destroyed. Then, as Condy 
suggests, if a piece of clean stick be put into 
the liquid, or if a little tea or coffee be added, 
the pink color will disappear, and the water 
will be fit for use. The very small amount of 
potassa remaining in the solution could not 
possibly do any harm, as it would not amount 
to 3-^0 part of a grain to the gallon. 

1702. Siret's Compound. Sulphate 
of iron, 20 pounds; sulphate of zinc, 3^ 
pounds; wood or peat charcoal, 1 pound; 
sulphate of lime, 26^^ pounds ; mix and foim 
into balls. To be placed in cesspools, <fec., 
to deodorize them. M. Siret has subsequently 
modified this compound thus : Sulphate of 
iron, 100 parts ; sulphate of zinc, 50 ; tan or 
oak-bark powder, 40 ; tar, 5 ; and oil, 5 parts. 

1703. Ledoyen's Solution. This is a 
solution of nitrate of lead, and contains 
about 20 ounc€S of the salt in a gallon. The 
specific gravity should be 1.40. A similar 
compound may be made by mixing 13^ ounces 
litharge with 6 pints water, and adding 12 
ounces nitric acid at 1.38 specific gravity 
(or 8 ounces at 1.50) and digesting at a gen- 
tle heat till the solution is complete. 

1704. Chloride of Lime as a Disin- 
fectant. It is a great purifier. 1 pound 
requires 3 gallons of water ; use the clear 
solution. To purify rooms, sprinkle on the 
floor, and, if needful, on the bed-fcen. In- 
fected clothes should be dipped in it and 
wrung out, just before they are washed. It 
purifies night commodes, water-closets, &c. 
It may also be used in its pure state. For 
butcher stalls, fish markets, slaughter houses, 
sinks, and wherever there are offensive putrid 
gases, sprinkle it about, and in a few daj's the 
smell will pass away. If a cat, rat, or mouse, 
dies about the house, and sends forth an offen- 
sive gas, place some chloride of lime in an open 
vessel near the place where the nuisance is, 
and it will soon purify the atmosphere. The 
presence of chloride of lime in a room causes 
iron or steel to rust rapidly. Articles of that 
material should therefore be removed during 
the use of this disinfectant. 

1705. Precautions to be Observed 
Before Entering a Sick Room, particu- 
larly where there is Fever. 

Never enter fasting; if it is inconvenient 
to take refreshment of the ordinary kind, ob- 
tain a glass of wine and a cracker. 

Do not stand between the patient and the 
door, if possible. Avoid sitting on or touch- 
ing the bed-clothes as much as possible, and 
do not inhale the patient's breath. The hands 
should always be washed in clean water, if 
the patient has fever, before leaving the room 
to touch other people or things. 

After visiting a fever patient, &g., change 
the dress, if possible. As soon as the fever 
is over, and the patient is convalescent, 
the dress which has been used by the nurse or 
attendant should be destroyed if there are 
no means of fumigation at hand, or it must 
be boiled in water to which carbolic acid has 
been added. The same treatment must be 
applied to the bed-clothes, &c., which have 
been used. 



BLEACHIXG. 



175 



1706. Onions as a Disinfectant. | 1712. To Purify water in a Cistern. 

Ouions placed iu the roc^m ^vhere there is ; 2 ounces of permauganate of potassa thrown 
small-pox -^viQ blister, and decompose with '■ in a cistern will render the foulest water sweet 
great rapidity ; besides this, they will prevent ' and pure. {See Xo. 1701.) 
the spread of the disease. As a disinfectant i 1713. To Purify Dirty "Water. Since, 
they have no equal, when properly used ; but | in dry seasons, any water may be of high 
keep them out of the stomach. ' i value, at least for cattle drinking, M. Meunier 

1707. To Prevent Infection. Let ; advises to place, in a large-sized cask, a false 
communication with the sick by actual con- j bottom perforated with some holes ; and to 
tact be as far as possible avoided. Let the i put on that bottom, first, clean pebbles, next, 
patient be lightly covered with the bed-clothes, I well washed sand, then a layer of coarsely 
his chamber freed from all unnecessary articles j granulated charcoal, and over all this a piece 
of furniture, and kept perfectly clean ; the ; of canvas. The water, even that standing in 
sheets and body linens frequently changed shallow ditches after a shower of rain, may be 



and removed from the sick room, as well as 
all substances producing, or likely to produce, 
any smell ; and above all things let the cham- 
ber and the adjoining apartments and passages 
be completely and freely ventilated by open- 
ing opposite doors and windows ; for although 
contagion may be carried by the air, it be- 
comes inert when, in.-cead of being concen- 
trated, it is sufficiently diflfuscd. 

170S. Special Preservative Against and 
Infection. In a lecture delivered in " 



poured into this filter, and thus become avail- 
able for cattle-drinking, though it may not be 
quite clear. 



Bleaching. 
included genen 



Royal Institution, Professor Tyndall proved 
by a series of interesting experiments, that the 
surest filter in a contagious atmosphere is 
cotton wool. " If a physician," said the Pro- 
fessor, ''wishes to holdback from the lungs 
of his patient, or from his own, the germs by 
which contagious disease is said to be propa- 
gated, he will employ a cotton wool respirator. 
In the crowded dwellings of the London poor, 
where the isolation of the sick is difficult, if 
not impossible, the noxious air around the 
patient may by this simple means be restored 
to piactical purity. Thus filtered, attendants 
may breathe the air unharmed, for it is ex- 
ceedingly probable that the germs which 
lodge in the air-passages, and which, at their 
leisure, can work theirVay across the mucous 
membrane, are those which sow in the body 
epidemic disease. If this be so, such disease 
mav be warded off bv filters of cotton wool." 

1709. To Diffase a Fragrant Odor. 
A few drops of oil of sandal wood dropped on 
a hot shovel, will clifAise a most agreeable 
balsamic perfume through the room. 

1710. Simple Mode of Purifying 
Water. A table-spoonful of pulverized alum 
sprinkled into a hogshead of water (the water 
stirred at the ^ame time) will, after a few 
hours, by prec'p'cating to the bottom the im- 
pure particles, so purify it that it will be 
found to possess nearly all the freshness and 
clearness of t.ne finest spring-water. A pail- 
ful, contai^iing 4 gallons, may be purified by a 
single tea spoonful of the alum. 

1711. To Test the Impurity of the 
Atmosphere. A simple method of ascer- 
taiuing the presence, of impurity (carbonic 
acid) jj the atmosphere, is to nearly fill a glass 
tumbler with lime-water, and to place it in 
any convenient position, as on the mantel- 
piece of a room. The rapidity with which a 
pellfcie forms on its surface, or the water be 



^ Under this head are 

general receipts for bleaching 

decolorizing. The methods employed 

the j for special purposes, such as bleaching fabrics 



for dyeing, removing stains, <fec., will be found 
in their proper places by reference to the in- 
dex. 

1715. To Bleach Cotton Pure White. 
Boil for 3 hours in water containing 1 gill 
to the gallon of either caustic potassa or caus- 
tic soda ; wash well from the lye, then lay 
the yarn or fabric to steep for 4 or 5 hours in 
cold water containing 1 pint of bleaching 
liquor (see Xo. 104) to the gallon; then lift 
out and steep for an hour in a sour of 1 wine- 
glassful of sulphuric acid to the gallon of 
water; lift, and wash well; then boil for 2 
hours in a caustic lye, half the strength of the 
first ; wash from this, and steep again for 4 
hours in the bleaching liquor ; wash from this 
and steep again for 1 hour in a clean sour, 
made in the same manner as the first; wash 
well from this, and dry. A little smalt blue 
is put into the last washing water to clear 
the white. 

1716. To Bleach Wool. The first kind 
of bleaching to which wool is subjected, is to 
free it from grease. This operation is called 
scouring. In manufactories, it is generally 
perfbinned by an ammoniacal lye, formed of 
5 measures of river water and 1 of stale urine ; 
the wool is immersed for about 20 minutes in 
a bath of this mixture heated to about 130^ 
Fahr; it is then taken out, suffered to drain, 
and rinsed in running water. This manipula- 
tion softens the wool, and gives it the first 
degree of whiteness. It is then repeated a 
second, and even a third time ; after which 
the wool is fit to be employed. In some 
places, scouring is performed with water 
slightly impregnated with soap ; and indeed, 
fofvaluable articles, this process is preferable; 
but it is too expensive for articles of less 
value. Bisulphide of carbon and benzine 
have been employed in cleansing wool. The 
fat may be saved by distilling off the solvent, 



comes cloudy, corresponds to the amount of i which may be used ov^r and over agafti 
the carbonic" acid present in the atmosphere | (5ee A'b. 439.) Sulphurous acid gas unites 
that surrounds it. A little moist carbonate of j very easily with water; and in this combina- 
lead put on a plate or saucer, and exposed in | tion it may be employed for bleaching wool 
the same way, will turn black, should any and silk. 

sulphuretted hydrogen be contained in the air. [ 1717. Sulphuration. The process by 
This is a delicate test for that destrnctive gas. : which silk, cotton, woolen, and straw goods. 



176 



BLEACHING 



<feo., are bleached or decolored by exposure to 
the fumes of burning sulphur. This is effected 
in a close chamber of a size proportioned to the 
scale on which the operation is conducted, 
and supplied with only just sufficient air to 
keep up the slow combustion of the sulphur, 
the fumes of which are sulphurous acid. 
{SeeNos. 360 awe? 364.) 

1718. To Prepare Sulphiirous Acid 
for Bleach.ing'. Sulphurous acid is used 
either as gas or in solution in water, which 
dissolves 50 times its volume of the gas. In 
the former case sulphur is burned in a close 
room in. which the stuffs (moistened) are 
hung; for small articles a barrel with a lid 
answers well. 2 exposures, of 24 hours each, 
suffice for wool. {See No. 360.) To get a 
solution of sulphurous acid, the cheapest and 
best plan is to heat in a glass retort 12 ounces 
sulphuric acid and 2 ounces sulphur. The 
gas, which comes off quietly, is collected in 
a large glass bottle partially filled with water; 
or, better, a series of bottles so connected 
together that the gas must pass successively 
through the water contained in each. 

17i9. A New Wash for Wool and 
Silk. Instead of using the fumes of sul- 
phur, M. Frezon proposes the following mix- 
ture: 4 pounds oxalic acid, 4 pounds table 
salt, 200 quarts water. The goods are laid in 
this mixture for an hour. They are then gen- 
erally well bleached, and only require to be 
thoroughly rinsed and washed. For bleach- 
ing straw it is best to soak the goods in caus- 
tic soda and afterwards to make use of chlor- 
ide of lime or Javelle water. {See Index.) 
The excess of chlorine is afterwards to be re- 
moved by hyposulphite of soda, called anti- 
chlor. 

1720. To Bleach Straw Bonnets. 
Get a deep box, air-tight, if possible ; place 
at the bottom a stone, on the stone a flat 
piece of iron red hot, or a pan of charcoal, 
on which scatter powdered brimstone; 
close the lid, and let the bonnet remain 
a night. There should be hooks on the 
box, on which to hang the boimets. {See last 
receipt.) 

1721. To Bleach Sponge. Sponge 
may be bleached almost snow-white by repe- 
titions of the following process : Soak it in 
diluted muriatic acid 10 or 12 hours, then wash 
it with water and immerse in a solution of 
hyposulphate of soda to which a small quan- 
tity of diluted muriatic acid has been added. 
"Wash and dry it. 

1722. Blanched Sponge. Soak the 
sponges for several days in cold water, renew- 
ing the water and squeezing the sponges occa- 
sionally. Then wash them in warm water, 
and place them in cold water to which a little 
muriatic acid has been added. ISText day take 
them out and wash them thoroughly in soft 
water; then immerse them in an aqueous 
sulphurous acid (specific gravity 1.034) for a 
week. They are afterwards washed in plenty 
of water, squeezed, and allowed to dry in the 
air. 

1723. To Bleach Lac. Dissolve the 
lac in a boiling lye of pearlash or caustic pot- 
ash, filter it and pass chlorine through the 
solution until all the lac is precipitated. Col- 
lect the precipitate, wash well in hot water, 
and fi.nall7 twist into sticks, and throw them 



into cold water to harden. Lac thus purified 
is used to make pale varnishes and the more 
delicate tints of colored sealing-wax. Shel- 
lac bleached by this method is liable to stain 
furniture inlaid with brass. The following 
process is free from this objection, and has 
the additional advantage of being much 
cheaper: 

1724. To Bleach Shellac with Ani- 
mal Charcoal Any quantity of yellow shel- 
lac, previously broken in small pieces, is con- 
veyed into a flask, alcohol of .830 specific grav- 
ity poured upon it, and the whole heated on 
a stove, or, in. the summer, in the sun, until 
the shellac is dissolved; upon this so much 
coarsely powdered animal charcoal is added 
to the solution that the whole forms a thin 
paste ; the flask is closed, not qaite air-tight, 
and left so for some time exposed to the sun; 
and in 8 to 14 days a small sample is filtered, 
sufficient to ascertain whether it has ac- 
quii^ed a light yellowish brown color, and 
whether it yields a clear, pure polish, on light 
colored woods. If this be the case, it is fil- 
tered through coarse blotting paper, for which 
purpose it is best to employ a tin funnel with 
double sides, similar to those employed in 
filtering spirituous solutions of soaps, opodel- 
doc, &Q,. The portion which first passes 
through the filter may be preserved separate- 
ly, and used as a ground or first polish. 
Then some more spirit is poured over the 
charcoal upon the filter, and the solution 
used as a last coating. The solution of shel- 
lac purified by animal charcoal has a brown 
yellow color, but it is perfectly clear and 
transparent; when diluted with alcohol, the 
color is so slight that it may be used in this 
state for polishing perfectly white wood, such 
as maple, pine, (fee, without the wood acquir- 
ing the least tint of yellow. 

1725. To Bleach Gutta Percha. Dis. 
solve 1 part gutta percha in 20 parts hot ben- 
zole, shake the solution with iV part freshl^v 
calcined plaster, and set aside, with occasional 
agitation, for 2 days. The clear pale brownish- 
yellow liquid is then decanted into another 
vessel containing double its bulk of alcohol 
fortius {see No. 1439), when the gutta percha 
will be precipitated in the form of a brilliantly 
white tenacious mass, which is pounded to- 
gether in a mortar, and rolled into cylindrical 
sticks. 

1726. Bleaching Woolen Rags. These 
are most effectually bleached by the applica- 
tion of sulphurous acid. Of course, in many 
instances, the color of the rags, supposing the 
same to be dyed or printed goods, will be also 
destroyed. Chlorine cannot be used for this 
purpose, because it causes woolen and silk 
fabrics to become yellow, and impairs the 
strength of the fibre, by entering into chemi- 
cal combination with the wool, silk, and other 
similar substances of animal origin; as, for 
instance, sponge, animal gut, isinglass, &c., 
all of wliich, if requiring bleaching, are 
bleached by sulphurous acid. 

1727. New Method of Bleaching 
Feathers. This process is an entirely new- 
ly-discovered one, whereby the feathers of 
ostriches and other birds may be bleached, 
even if these feathers are naturally black or 
dark gray colored. The feathers are placed 
for from 3 to 4 hours in a tepid dilute solution 



VINE GAB. 



177 



of bichromate of potassa, to which, cautiously, 
some nitric acid has been added. After this 
lapse of time the feathers will be found to 
have assumed a greenish hue, owing to the 
oxide of chromium precipitated on the sub- 
stance ; in order to remove this, the feathers 
are placed in a dilute solution of sulphurous 
acid in water, whereby the feathers become 
perfectly white and bleached. Care is to be 
taken that the solution of bichromate be not 
made too strong, and especially that not too 
much nitric acid be used, which would cause 
an irremovable yellow color. 

1738. Table Showing; the Number of 
Parts of a Weak Bleaching Liquor, Re- 
quired to be added to 1 Part Bleaching 
Liquor of 6^ Twaddell, to Produce a 
Liquor of a given Strength. According 
to Mr, Crum, the strength of liquor for bleach- 
ing cotton should be less than 1° Twaddell ; 
the following table enables an operator to in- 
crease the strength of a weak bleaching hquor 
with a great degree of accuracy. The left 
hand column gives the strength of the weak 
liquor, expressed in iV parts of 1°. At the 
head of the other columns stands the degree 
of strength required, and under these headings 
wiU be found the number of parts of weak 
liquor required to be added to 1 part of a 
hquor of 6° Twaddell, to produce the required 
strength of the mixture. (See No. 68.) 



Strength of 


strength Required. 


Sample. 


A° 


A° 


A° 


A° 


Water. 


8 parts 


11 parts 


17 parts 


23 parts 


1^° 


9t'^ 


13i" 


23 " 


35 '' 


h 


11 " 


17 " 


35 " 


71 '' 


A 


m- 


23 '' 


71 " 




A 


17 " 


35 " 






h 


23 " 


71 " 






A 


35 '^ 








i^ 


71 " 









1729. Properties of Charcoal. This 
article, when fresh, possesses the property of 
taking hme and other sahne matter from 
syrups and other aqueous solutions, especially 
organic ones, at the same time that it decolors 
them. As a decolorizer and deodorizer, ani- 
mal charcoal (prepared from bones) is vastly 
superior to vegetable charcoal. Charcoal 
should be fresh burnt and fresh powdered and 
preserved from contact with the air. Unless 
these precautions be observed it rapidly loses 
its valuable qualities. (See No. 1752.) 

1730. Aluminized Charcoal. This is 
recommended by Dr. Stenhouse as a cheap 
and very efficient decolorizing agent. Dis- 
solve in water 54 parts of the sulphate of 
alumina of commerce, and mix with 92^ parts 
finely powdered wood charcoal. When the 
charcoal is saturated, evaporate to dryness, 
and heat to redness in covered Hessian cruci- 
bles till the water and acid are dissipated. 
The charcoal contains just 7i per cent, of 
anhydrous alumina. 

1731. Charcoal from Coal-Tar. Heat 
gently in an iron pot till it melts, 1 pound 
coal-tar pitch. Add 2 pounds fluid coal-tar^ 



and mix. Stir in 7 pounds hydrate of lime in 
very fine powder. The thick mass is now 
roasted, stirring all the time till it is reduced 
to a fine powder. It is then ignited in a 
covered crucible till all the vegetable matter 
is carbonized. The charcoal, when cold, is 
digested with dilute hydrochloric acid, and 
finally washed with water in a filter, and 
dried. Dr. Stenhouse recommends this as an 
admirable form for decolorization. For such 
hquids as decoction of logwood it is four timea 
as efficient as animal charcoal. 



Vmega^r. Ylnegar is dilute acetic 
acid more or less mixed with gum, 
sugar, and other vegetable matter. It can be 
made from any liquid which is susceptible of 
the vinous fermentation. In this country it 
is made chiefly from cider and alcoholic li- 
quors; in England, from malt liquors and 
molasses; in wine growing countries, from 
inferior or damaged wine. The cultivation of 
the vine is gradually gaining importance in 
this country, and it seems more than probable 
that, at no distant time, vinegar will be made 
here largely from wine. 

1733. To Make Vinegar by the Ger- 
man, or Q,uick Method. Many methods 
have been invented to produce vinegar ; but 
that known as the "German, or quick method," 
has superseded all others, and is now in gen- 
eral use in the United States. By this pro- 
cess (which is very simple) time and labor 
are both greatly abridged, and a very fine ar- 
ticle is produced. The method vdll be found 
embodied in the five following receipts : 

1734. How to Make a Vinegar Gen- 
erator. The construction of a vinegar gene- 
rator is very simple. A is a tub, 8 feet in 
height, 3 feet in diameter at the bottom, and 
35 feet in diameter at the top, with a cover, 
B, of which one part, Gr, is movable, in order 
to permit the hquid to be poured in when ne- 
cessary. B is a shelf or false bottom perforated 
with a number of holes -g- of an inch in dia- 
meter, placed about 8 inches from the top of 
the generator, at which place a stout hoop 
must be nailed to support it. "^hen this false 
bottom is placed in the generator, it should 
be packed carefully on the sides with cotton 
batting, so as to prevent the liquid from es- 
caping at any place except through the holes. 
The shelf or false bottom has also four i inch 
holes, in which are inserted 4 open reed tubes 
as air vents, each having its ends projecting 
above and below the shelf, the upper ends 
projecting at least 11 inches below the top 
cover, E, and the other ends penetrating the 
contents of the generator. C is a horizontal 
row of holes at about 18 inches from the bot- 
tom of the generator, equidistant, and ^ an 
inch in diameter, bored in about every other 
stave, and in a vertical or slanting direction 
from the outside downward inside. There is 
also a hole for the insertion of the thermome- 
ter, 6 inches below the false top ; this hole 
should slant from the outside, downward in- 
side. The holes are bored in this manner to 
prevent the vinegar from running out. It is 
essential to the success of the process that a 
current of air should pass through the tub. 



178 



VIXEGAB. 



In order to estabKsh this circulation, the 
above holes are made, and the air enters by 
them, and passes ont through the tubes in the 





false bottom above. Some parties insert a 
perforated false bottom about 2 inches below 
the slanting ventila- 
tion-holes, to support 
the shavings, leaving 
the portion of the tub 
below free ; others 
prefer a similar false 
bottom about 2 inch- 
es above the holes, in 
order to prevent the 
shavings from coming 
in contact with the 
holes and obstructing 
the ventilation. D is a stop-cock, or faucet, 
6 inches from the bottom of the generator, 
the discharging capacity of which must be 
controlled by the size of the generator. J^ever 
draw off the vinegar below this faucet. 

1735. How to Pack a Vinegar Gene- 
rator. Having made the generator, the next 
part of the process of making vinegar consists 
in packing or charging it ; this is done in the 
following manner: Take pieces of beech 
board about 18 inches in length (maple or 
basswood boards will do, but not as well as 
beech), and plane thick, heavy shavings from 
the edge ; the shavings should curl and roll 
up, or they must be rolled up and tied. IsText 
cut clean corn-cobs into pieces 11 or 2 inches 
long. The shavings and corn-cobs must be 
thoioughly soaked in water ; or, what is still 
better, boiled in vinegar. Pill the tub half 
full with the corn-cobs, and let the cobs re- 
main in the tub just as they are thrown there, 
without further arrangement. Then fill up 
the balance of the generator with the beech 
shavings and arrange them so that those 
which touch the upper false bottom are more 
strongly pressed than the rest, as the degree 
of pressure should increase as you pack from 
the bottom to the top of the generator. The 
generator being filled, the false bottom must 
be fitted in and rest level upon the shavings, 
and great care must be taken not to have the 
air-tubes stopped up, or the cobs packed too 
solid in the vicinity of the slanting holes. 
The shavings or cobs may be loosened at the 
thermometer and ventilating-holes, by means 
of a stick thrust therein. The generator may 



I also be entirely packed with beech shavings 
j or entirely with cobs ; the latter, however, are 
inferior, as they soon rot and become worth- 
less. Beech chips are preferred to shavings 
by some vinegar manufacturers. 

1 736. Mode of Acetifying' Shavings. 
The next step in the process of manufactur- 
ing vinegar consists in acetifying the shavings 
and cobs; and this is accomplished in the fol- 
lowing manner: Preserve a temperature of 
between 75° and 85° Fahr., and pour over the 
shavings and cobs, every horn-, a mixture of 2 
gallons vinegar and i gallon common whiskey 
(this liquid should first be heated, to hasten 
fermentation), until there are 10 gallons in the 
generator above the faucet, but not more. 
Muspratt recommends a standard liquor, both 
for the acetification of the shavings and for 
generating of vinegar. It consists of 50 gal- 
lons 60 per cent, whiskey, and 37 gallons beer 
or malt wort. A mixture of 5 gallons of the 
above mixtures with 40 or 50 of weak vinegar, 
acetifies still quicker than the standard mix- 
ture used alone. Draw off from the generator 
every hour 2 gallons, and add it again at the 
top; continue this until the fermentation 
commences ; this usually begins at the top of 
the generator in the course of 4 or 5 days. 
The contact of the air with the minutely di- 
vided liquid promotes the acetification, which 
consists essentially in the oxidation of the 
alcohol. As the oxygen is absorbed, the tem- 
perature of the Kquor rises to 100° or 105°, 
and when the thermometer indicates that 
temperature when placed through the opening 
in the cover, the generator is ready, and in 
proper condition for the manufacturer. Pay 
special attention to the fermentation, for that 
is the principal point to be observed. It is 
scarcely necessary to say that the vinegar 
used for acetifying the shavings should be 
pure, or at all events free from the mineral 
acids. It is well known that essential oils, or 
a mere trace of wood- vinegar, arrest acetifi- 
cation; consequently the vinegar must also 
be free from pyroligneous acid. After the 
acetification occurs, proceed as follows : 

1737. Mode of Manufacturing Vine- 
gar. Keep the vinegar room at a temperature 
of from 75° to 85° Fahr., and maintain the 
temperature of the generators at 95° to 100°. 
Then make up a mixture or wash composed of 
the following ingredients : 3 gallons common 
whiskey; 4 gallons manufactured vinegar; 33 
gallons pure water. Muspratt uses 15 or 20 
gallons of his standard liquor {see last receipt), 
diluted with 60 gallons soft water. The water, 
if not clear, must be filtered through charcoal. 
Draw off' every hour 4 gallons of vinegar from 
each generator, and pour in at the top 4 gallons 
of the above wash, with an additional quart for 
waste in manufacturing ; and pour the vinegar 
into another generator as soon as it is drawn. 
Yinegar is thus made by being passed only 
once or twice through the shavings, according 
to the quality and degree of strength required. 
Keep a large tank to hold the vinegar when 
made, and put k gallon of molasses into it 
every day until you get a bed 2 or 3 inches 
thick. The molasses wiU. improve the vine- 
gar and give it a fine color. This is the 
quickest process which has yet been obtained 
for manufacturing large quantities, and the 
vinegar made in this way finds ready sale. 



VINEGAB. 



179 



1738. TTsefal Hints to Those Making 
Vinegar by the Q,uick Method. The 

success of the whcle process of making vine- 
gar by the G-erman, or quick method, depends 
almost entirely upon the free circulation of 
air throughout the generator. It sometimes 
happens that the yinegar, when it comes from 
the generator, is not perfectly clear and trans- 
parent; to remedy this, some manufacturers 
use two false bottoms to each generator, and 
have a bed of white sand, 15 inches deep, 
upoa the lower one. The sand will have to 
be packed in before the chips are, as follows : 
First cover the false bottom with flannel, to 
prevent the sand from coming through the 
holes, then put in a layer of sand 5 inches 
deep, cover this with two thicknesses of flan- 
nel, and then another layer of sand; repeat 
this again, and then pack in the chips as al- 
ready directed. This will produce an article 
of a fine color, and will pass for a fine wine- 
vinegar if colored. Persons who are skeptical 
about this way of making vinegar may test it 
at a trifling expense on a small scale by 
experimenting with a keg arranged on the 
same principle as the generators. Those who 
desire to go into the business extensively, can 
have a series of generators. They may be 
an'anged one above the other, and connected 
from floor to floor by gutta percha tubes, and 
thus vinegar may be made by passing once 
through three generators, instead of two or 
three times through one generator. 

1739. To Make Vinegar duickly. 
Take a cask or hogshead with the head out, 
and a faucet near the bottom; fill it with beech 
shavings prepared as in ^o. 1735 ; or, instead 
of shavings, the casks may be filled with corn- 
cobs or beech chips ; over these lay a coffee 
sack, and cover it with fine shavings, to keep 
the heat in. j^ext throw some good vinegar 
on the shavings, and let it soak in for a few 
hours ; then draw it off" through the faucet 
and throw it on to the shavings again, repeat- 
ing this until the shavings are thoroughly 
soured, and adding each time 1 quart of high 
wines to the vinegar before throwing it back 
on the shavings ; this addition prevents the 
vinegar from becoming flat by the absoi*ption 
of the acid by the shavings. Then mix 1 gal- 
lon 90 per cent, high wines, and 1 quart mo- 
lasses, with 14 gallons river water; pour it 
upon the shavings ; draw it off" and put it on 
the shavings again 2 or 3 times a day until 
sour. By using several casks, sufficient vine- 
gar may be made at a time to put into barrels. 
Sour ale, or the rinsings of sugar hogsheads, 
may be poured on the shavings and turned 
into good vinegar in this way. It is better 
for the fluid to be weak at first, adding the 
miolasses or other material being converted in- 
to vinegar, by degrees during the successive 
drawings. By following this plan, the 
strength of the vinegar may be gradually 
increased to almost any degree. 

1740. To Make Good Cider Vinegar. 
Take 10 gallons apple juice fresh from the 
press, and suffer it to ferment fully, which 
may be in about 2 weeks, or sooner if the 
weather is warm ; and then add 8 gallons like 
juice, new, for producing a second fermenta- 
tion ; in 2 weeks more add another like new 
quantity, for producing a third fermentation. 
This third fermentation is material. Now 



stop the bunghole with an empty bottle, with 
the neck downward, and expose it to the sua 
for some time. "When the vinegar \b come, 
draw off one-half into a vinegar cask, and set 
it in a cool place above ground, for use when 
clear. With the other half in the first cask, 
proceed to make more vinegar in the same 
way. Thus one cask is to make in, the other 
to use from. When making the vinegar, let 
there be a moderate degree of heat, and free 
access of external air. The process is hasten- 
ed by adding to the cider, when you have it, 
a quantity of the mother of vinegar, as it is 
called — a whitish, ropy coagulum, of a muci- 
laginous appearance, which is formed in the 
vinegar and acts as a ferment. The strength 
of vinegar depends on the amount of sugar or 
starchy matter to be utimately converted into 
acetic acid. 

1741. To Make Alcohol Vinegar. 
The following is the G-erman method of ma- 
king acetic acid, and is excellent and simple : 
In a bell glass or tall glass case, arrange 
shelves a few inches apart, one above another, 
on which place small flat dishes of earthen- 
ware or wood ; then fill these dishes with alco- 
hol, and suspend over each, in small trays or 
capsules, a portion of the black powder of 
platina {see Platinum- Black) ; hang strips of 
porous paper in the case, with their bottom 
edges immersed in the spirit to promote evap- 
oration. Set the apparatus in a light place at 
a temperature of from 68° to 86° Fahr., for 
which purpose the sunshine will be found 
convenient. Itl a short time the formation of 
vinegar will commence, and the condensed 
acid vapors will be seen trickling down the 
sides of the glass, and collecting at the bot- 
tom, whence it may be removed once or twice 
a day. We shall find that during this process, 
produced by the mutual action of the platina 
and the vapor of alcohol, there will be an in- 
crease of temperature, which will continue tiU 
aU the oxygen contained in the air enclosed in 
the case is consumed, when the acetification 
will stop ; the case must then be opened for a 
short time, to admit of a fresh supply of air, 
when the operation will commence again. 

1742. Artus' Process for the Manu- 
facture of Vinegar. Dr. Artus has dis- 
covered a process for making vinegar from 
alcohol, which he says has proved entirely 
satisfactory. There is a very general com- 
plaint that the oxidation of spirits of wine in 
the vinegar process is far from complete, and 
that the results are not equal either in quality 
or quantity to what ought to be expected from 
the materials employed. His plan is as fol-i 
lows : Take k ounce dry bichloride of pla-j^ 
tinum, and dissolve it in 5 pounds alcohol; 
with this liquid moisten 3 pounds wood char- 
coal broken in pieces the size of a hazel-nut ; 
heat these in a covered crucible, and after- 
wards put them in the- bottom of a vinegar 
vat. Here the platinum in its finely divided 
spongy state absorbs and condenses large 
quantities of oxygen from the air, by which 
alcohol is rapidly oxidized. When the char- 
coal has been in use for 5 weeks it should be 
again heated in a covered crucible. 

1743. To Improve Alcohol Vinegar. 
Vinegar made from pure alcohol and water 
does not possess the flavor of wine or cider 
vinegar, and is therefor© inferior to them for 



180 



VINE GAB 



table use ; but a little acetic ether added to it 
renders it agreeable. Eaw spirits containing 
some fusel oil produce a more pleasantly- 
flavored vinegar than refined spirits ; hence 
a few drops of fusel oil added to rectified 
spirits, in making the wash for vinegar, im- 
proves its aroma. A little oil of cloves or 
butyric ether added in the same manner im- 
proves its flav^or. A very small quantity of 
cider vinegar gives a large quantity of whiskey 
vinegar a pleasant flavor. An infusion of 
chicory is sometimes added to high wine vine- 
gar, to give it the color of cider vinegar. 

1 744. To Keep Up a Constant Supply 
of Cheap Vinegar. A supply of vinegar 
can be kept constantly on hand by retailers in 
the following manner : Before a barrel is quite 
sold out, fill up the barrel with 1 gallon mo- 
lasses to every 11 gallons soft water. This 
mixture will become good vinegar in aboat 3 
weeks — and can be treated in its turn in the 
same way. "WTiere less than a barrel a week 
is used, 3 barrels thus treated and used in ro- 
tation, will be sufficient to keep up a perpetual 
supply. If the barrels stand on end, there 
must be a hole made in the top, protected 
with gauze to keep out insects. If standing 
on the side, the bunghole must be left open 
and similarly protected. 

1745. To Make Vinegar in Three 
"Weeks. Mix in the following proportions : 
1 quart molasses, 1 pint yeast to 3 gallons 
warm rain water. Put the mixtm-e into a keg 
or barrel with the bunghole open, but protect- 
ed with gauze against insects. 

1746. Distilled Vinegar. Put 1 gal- 
lon vinegar in a retort ; and distill by a sand- 
bath, 7 pints. This should produce a vinegar 
of specific gravity 1.0065. The use of a lead 
or pewter worm must be avoided, as it renders 
the product cloudy and poisonous. 

1747. To Make Vinegar from Sugar. 
An excellent domestic vinegar may be made 
by dissolving 1;^ pounds sugar to each gallon 
water used, with J pint good yeast. If the 
heat of the mixture be maintained at 70^ to 
80° Fahr., acetification will set in, so that in 2 or 
3 days it may be racked off" from the sediment 
into a cask ; it then receives the addition of 1 
ounce cream of tartar, and 1 ounce crushed 
raisins; when completely free from sweet 
taste, it should be bottled and corked closely. 
The juice of currants, gooseberries, and many 
other fruits, and of beets, may be thus made 
into vinegar, either alone or in combination 
with syrup. Yinegar made in this manner 
keeps better than that made from malt liquors. 

1748. Tests for Vinegar. The methods 
of testing the strengtli of vinegar are given 
under the head of Acetimetry. The following 
tests of purity will be found useful: 

Paper written on or smeared with pure vine- 
gar, is not charred when strongly warmed 
before the fire; if it is, the vinegar contains 
fully 2 per cent, of sulphuric acid. 
. Dip a small porcelain capsule or china cup 
into a solution of i ounce sugar in 15 ounces 
water, and then heat the capsule to a tempera- 
ture of 212° Fahr. A drop of vinegar let 
fall on it will not be materially discolored if 
pure; it will turn a dark brown or black, if 
the vinegar contains only ^^ part of sulphuric 
acid; the presence of Tfnj^ of sulphuric acid 
will cause the spot to turn an olive green ; a 



less proportion will produce a pale green color. 

Chloride of barium testifies the presence of 
the same acid by forming a heavy white pre- 
cipitate; each grain of this precipitate, after 
being dried and gently ignited, represents 
.344 grain of dry sulphuric acid; and if the 
precipitate from 1000 grains of vinegar exceed 
2k grains, it contains an undue proportion of 
sulphuric acid. 

If a solution of nitrate of silver gives a 
cloudy white precipitate, hydrochloric acid is 
present. 

If, after the addition of 2 or 3 grains carbon- 
ate of potash, and evaporation of the sample 
to dryness, the residuum deflagrates when 
ignited, the sample contains nitric acid. 

1749. To Strengthen Weak Vinegar. 
If in pickles, turn it off", heat it scalding hot, 
put it in the pickles, and when lukewarm, 
put in a small piece of alum the size of a 
filbert, and a brown paper 4 inches square, wet 
with molasses. If it does not grow sharp in 
2 weeks it is past recovery, and must be 
thrown away. Or, freeze it and remove the 
ice which forms on the surface. The water 
of the vinegar alone freezes, leaving the acetic 
acid in solution in the remaining water. 

1750. To Determine the Strength of 
Vinegar. The hydrometer is not to be 
much relied on in testing the strength of vine- 
gar. The simplest test is to take a fragment 
of fine marble, weigh it and suspend it by a 
thread in a known measure of vinegar until all 
action ceases and the hquid has no longer a 
sour taste. Take out the marble, wash and 
dry it, and note the loss of weight it has 
sustained, f of this is real (hydrated) acetic 
acid. An ounce of good vinegar should sat- 
urate from 30 to 32 grains of pure and dry 
carbonate of soda; such vinegar contains 
about 5 per cent, of anhydrous (absolute) 
acetic acid. Yinegar above 30 per cent, of 
real acid wiU dissolve the essential oils and 
camphor. The strength of vinegar may also 
be ascertained in the same way as any other 
acid (see Nos. 69 and 78^ ; but vinegar manu- 
facturers designate the strength of their pro- 
ducts by the number of grains of pure car- 
bonate of potassa required to neutralize 1 
fluid ounce of the vinegar tested. Thus, if 1 
fluid ounce of a sample of vinegar requires 16 
grains of carbonate of potassa to neutralize 
it, the vinegar is said to be of a strength of 
16 grains. 

1751. To D eprive Vinegar and Other 
Vegetable Liquids of their Color. To 
take away the color of vinegar, 2 pints red 
wine vinegar, cold, are mixed with Ik ounces 
bone-charcoal (prepared as directed in the 
next receipt) in a glass vessel. Shake this 
mixture from time to time, and in 2 or 3 
days the color completely disappears. "When 
the process is to be performed in the large 
way, throw the charcoal into a cask of vine- 
gar, which must be stirred from time to time. 
The highest colored red wines treated in the 
same manner become perfectly limpid. Ivory- 
black possesses the same property as bone- 
black. Filtering through charcoal will pro- 
duce the same result. 

1752. To Prepare Animal Charcoal 
to Decolorize Vinegar and other Vege- 
table Liquids. Fill a crucible with the 
most compact parts of ox and sheep bones, 



SAUCES, CATSUPS, AND PICKLES, 



181 



lute the cover, carefully leaving only a small 
opening at the top, place the crucible on a 
forge fire, and heat it gradually till red ; when 
the flame from the oily and gelatinous parts 
has ceased, diminish the opening and sud- 
denly raise the fire; when cold, reduce the 
charcoal to fine powder. {See No. 1729.) 



Sauces, Catsups, and Pic- 
kles. The following receipts are 
given to illustrate the methods employed in 
preparing a number of well known condi- 
ments. This department of our work might 
have been greatly extended, but it was not 
thought advisable to occupy space with par- 
ticulars that may be found in any of the pop- 
ular treatises on cookery: 

1754. Soy. The pure article is imported 
from China, but an excellent substitute may 
be prepared by boiling 1 gallon of the seeds 
of Dolichos soja (if this cannot be had, haricot 
or kidney beans will answer) in sufficient 
water until soft; add 1 gallon bruised wheat, 
and keep in a warm place for 24 hours ; then 
add 1 gallon salt, and 2 gallons water, and 
keep for 2 or 3 months in a tightly bunged 
stone jar; after which, press out the liquor. 

1755. Epicurean Sauce. Indian soy, 
2 ounces ; walnut catsup, mushroom catsup, 
each 8 ounces ; port wine, 2 ounces ; bruised 
white pepper, i ounce; shallots, 3 ounces; 
cayenne, ^ ounce ; cloves, i ounce. MaceratB 
for 14 days in a warm place, strain, and add 
white wine vinegar to make up a pint. 

1 756. Kitchener's Sauce Superlative. 
Port wine, and mushroom catsup, of each 1 
pint; walnut or other pickle liquor, ^ pint; 
pounded anchovies, 4 ounces; fresh lemon- 
peel cut thin, sliced shallots, and scraped 
horseradish, of each 1 ounce ; allspice and 
black pepper, of each i ounce ; cayenne, 1 
drachm; curry powder, 3 drachms; celery 
seed, 1 drachm; put them into a wide-mouth- 
ed bottle, stop it close, shake daily for 2 
weeks, and strain ; i pint soy may be added. 

1757. To Make Cluin Sauce. Mix 
together 2 gallons walnut catsup, 2 gallons 
mushroom catsup, 1 gallon soy, 1 pound gar- 
lic, and 6 pounds sprats. Boil for 15 minutes, 
strain and bottle. 

1758. To Make Harvey's Sauce. 
Take 48 parts Quin sauce, 16 parts soy, and 1 
part cayenne. 

1759. Worcestershire Sauce. Mix to- 
gether \^ gallons white wine vinegar, 1 gal- 
lon walnut catsup, 1 gallon mushroom catsup, 
i gallon Madeira wine, i gallon Canton soy, 
2 2 pounds moist sugar, 19 ounces salt, 3 
ounces powdered capsicum, Ih ounces each of 
pimento and coriander, 14 ounces chutney, f 
ounce each of cloves, mace and cinnamon, 
and 65 drachms assafoetida dissolved in 1 pint 
brandy 20 above proof. Boil 2 pounds hog's 
liver for 12 hom-s in 1 gallon of water, adding 
water as requued to keep up the quantity; 
then mix the boiled liver thoroughly with the 
water ; strain it through a coarse sieve. Add 
this to the sauce. 

1760. Indian Curry. The true Indian 
curry is said to be thus made : Coriander 

6 drachms ; turmeric^ 5 scruples ; fresh 



ginger, 45 drachms; cummin seeds, 18 grains; 
black pepper, 54 grains; poppy seed, 94 grains; 
garlic, 2 heads ; cinnamon, 1 scruple ; carda- 
mom, 5 seeds ; 8 cloves, 1 or 2 chillies ; half a 
cocoa-nut grated; aU but the last to be ground 
on a stone. 

1 761 . Italian Tamara. Coriander seed, 
cloves, and cinnamon, of each 8 ounces; 
anise and fenuel seeds, of each 4 pounds ; mix. 

1762. Bengal Chutney. Chillies, H 
pounds ; um-ipe mangoes (or apples), 1 pound; 
red tamarinds, 2 pounds ; sugar candy, 1 
pound; fresh ginger root, li pounds; garlic, | 
to I5 pounds; sultana raisins, 1^ pounds; fine 
salt, 1 pound; and 5 bottles of the best vinegar; 
soak the chillies for 1 hour in the vinegar" 
then grind all with a stone and muller to a 
paste. 

1763. Kitchener's Essence of Soup 
Herbs. Take of lemon thyme, winter savory, 
sweet marjoram, and sweet basil, of each 1 
ounce; grated lemon peel and eschalots, of 
each i ounce ; bruised celery seed, i ouiice ; 
proof spirit, 1 pint. Digest for 10 to 14 days. 
A superior flavoring essence for soups, gravies, 
seasonings, &q. 

1764. Essence of Savory Spices. 
Take of ground black pepper, 4 ounces ; pow- 
dered turmeric, 3 drachms ; ground coriander 
seeds, I5 drachms; oil of pimento, 1^ fluid 
drachms ; oil of nutmeg, oil of cloves, oil of 
cassia, and oil of caraway, of each 5 drachm ; 
alcohol, 1 pint. Digest with agitation for 2 
weeks. 

1765. Tincture of Savory Spices. 
Take of black pepper, 1^ ounces ; allspice, 5 
drachms ; nutmegs and burnt sugar, of each 
^ ounce ; ground cloves, cassia, coriander and 
caraway seeds, of each 1 drachm ; proof spirit, 
1 pint. Digest with agitation for 2 weeks ; 
press and filter. Used for flavoring. AVTien 
made with alcohol and double the above 
weight of spices it makes an essence of savory 
spices. 

1766. Cautions in the Preparation of 
Catsups, &c. In preparing catsups, pickles, 
(fee, vessels of earthenware, stoneware or 
well-tinned copper pans should alone be 
used, as salt, vegetable juices and vinegar rap- 
idly coiTode copper, and render the results 
poisonous. Nothing in the shape of copper, 
lead, or pewter should be allowed to come in 
contact with them at any time. Even a j)lated 
copper spoon left in a bottle of catsup for some 
time will render its contents poisonous. Un- 
pleasant and even dangerous attacks of vom- 
iting, colic, and diarrhoea have resulted from 
neglect of these precauticms. 

1767. Mushroom Catsup. Lay alter- 
nate layers of mushrooms and salt in an 
earthenware pan, using 4 pound of salt to 
each 2 quarts of mushrooms. After 6 hours, 
break them into pieces, and set in a cool place 
for 3 days, stirring every morning. JSText 
strain, and to every quart of the juice add 5 
ounce each allspice and ginger, 5 tea-spoonful 
powdered mace, and 1 tea-spoonful cayenne 
pepper. Put it into a closely covered stone 
jar, set in a pan of boiling water, and boil 
briskly for 5 hours ; then empty it into a por- 
celain lined kettle and simmer gently for i 
hour ; let it stand over night in a cool place 
to settle. Decant the clear liquor and cork 
tightly in bottles filled to the mouth. It is 



182 



SAVCES, CATSUPS, AND PICKLES. 



better to seal the corks and tie doTf-n with ; 
bladder, and to use small bottles, as it soon ; 
spoils -when exposed to the air. j 

1768. Tomato Catsup. Take 1 peck | 
ripe tomatoes, cut a slit in them, and put j 
them into a porcelain lined kettle. Boil until 
the pnlp is dissolved; strain and press, first j 
through a cullender, then through a hair-sieve; j 
then boil for 5 hours vrith 1 ounce salt, 1 ounce ' 
mace, 1 table-spoonful black pepper, 1 tea- 
spoonful cayenne, 1 table-spoonful povrdered 
cloves, 7 of "^ground mustard, and 1 of celery 
seed ; this last tied in a thin muslin bag ; stir 
frequently, especially during the last horn*; 
turn it into a stone jar to cool; and, Tvhen 
cold, add 1 pint strong vinegar ; take out the 
bag of celery seed, and bottle. Seal the corks, 
and keep in a dark cool place. 

1769. Tomato Catsup. Cut i bushel 
tomatoes to pieces, and boil them in their own 
liquor until soft ; strain and press through a 
hair-sieve to separate the skins and seeds ; | 
boil down to a thick pulp, stirring all the j 
time ; then add 6 ounces salt, 6 drachms all- 
spice, 1 ounce Si drachms yellow mustard, 3 ' 
ounces black pepper, 6 drachms cloves, 3 
dracjhms mace, 2 drachms cayenne pep- 
per, and 1 gallon vinegar. The spices must 
all be ground fine before using them. Let 
the whole boil up twice, and, when cool, 
bottle. 

1770. "Walnut Catsup. Take young, 
tender walnuts, prick them in several places, 
bruise them with a wooden billet, and place 
in ajar with sufiicient water to cover them, 
adding a handful of salt for every 25 walnuts ; 
stir them twice a day for 14 days ; then drain 
off the liquor into a saucepan. Cover the 
walnuts with boiling vinegar, crush to a pulp 
and strain through a cullender into the liquor 
in the saucepan. ^Ldd, for every 2 quarts, 2 
ounces each black pepper and ginger, 1 ounce 
each cloves and nutmeg pounded fine, a pinch 
of cayenne, a shallot minced fine, and a 
thimbleful of celery seed tied in a muslin 
bag. Boil all together for an hour, and, when 
cold, bottle. In the above manner an ex- 
cellent catsup may be made from butternuts. 

1771. Tarragon Vinegar. Put fresh 
tarragon leaves into a stone jar, and pour on 
them a sufficient quantity of the best wine 
vinegar to cover them. Set the jar in a warm 
place for 14 days ; then strain through a jelly 
bag. In the same way may be made elder- 
flower, hasiJ, green mini, smd Burnet vinegars. 

1772. Cress and Celery Vinegars are 
made with i ounce of the bruised seed to a 
quart of vinegar. 

1773. Horseradish Vinegar, with 3 
ounces of the scraped root, 1 ounce of minced 
shallots, 1 drachm cayenne, to 1 quart vinegar. 

1774. Garlic Vinegar is made with 2 
ounces minced garlic to 1 quart ^\ine vinegar. 

1775. Shallot Vinegar in the same 
manner, using challots instead of garhc. 

1776. Chili Vinegar, with 50 chillies 
(peppers) cut or bruised (or i ounce cayenne 
pepper), to 1 pint of the best vinegar ; digest 
for 14 days, strain, and keep in Jialf-jnnt 
bottles. 

1777. Camp Vinegars. Take 12 
chopped anchovies, 2 cloves of garlic minced, 
1 drachm cayenne, 2 ounces soy, 4 ounces 
walnut catsup, and 1 pint best vinegar ; digest 



for 1 month, and strain. Or : Yiiiegar, 1 
quart ; walnut catsup, 1 pint ; mushroom cat- 
sup, 3 table-spoonfuls ; garlic, 4 heads ; 
cayenne, k ounce; soy, 2 table-spoonfuls > 
port wine, 2 glasses; "3 anchovies, and 1 
table-spoonful of salt ; put them into a bottle^ 
shake daily for a month, and decant. 

1778. Curry Vinegar. Infuse 3 ounces 
cm-ry powder in 1 quart vinegar, near the fire, 
for 3 days. 

1779. Superfine Raspberry Vine- 
gar. Pour 1 quart vinegar on 1 quart rasp- 
berries ; the next day press and strain the juice 
upon another quart of the fruit, and repeat 
this every day for 6 days. Then add 1 pound 
white sugar to every pint of the vinegar, and 
put it into a jar, which must be placed in a 
pot of boiling water to be scalded through. 

1780. Fine Raspberry Vinegar. 
Bruised ripe raspberries and white wine vine- 
gar, of each 3 pints ; macerate 24 hom-s, press, 
strain, and to each pint add white sugar, 1 
pound ; boil, skim, cool, and to each pint add 
brandy, 2 ounces. In a similar way may be 
made''Straicherry Vinegar cind Clierrii Vinegar. 

1781. Raspberry Vinegar. Macerate 

2 pounds fresh raspberries with 1 pint best 
vinegar for 14 days, and strain: or, to 1 quart 
of juice add 2 ounces strong acetic acid or 
enough to render it sufficiently acid. 

1 783. Raspberry Vinegar from Rasp- 
berry Syrup. Mix together 2 pints rasp- 
berry syrup and ^ fluid ounce acetic acid. 
Added to iced water according to taste, this 
is one of the most delightful of refrigerant 
drinks. 

1783. Eschalot Wine. Bruised shallots, 

3 ounces ; sherry wine, 1 pint ; infuse for 10 
days; 1 ounce scraped horseradish and 1 
drachm thin lemon-peel may be added. Dr. 
Kitchener says this is the most elegant prepa- 
ration of the onion tribe. Amines of several 
herbs may be made in the same proportion as 
the vinegars. 

1784. Table Mustard. Mix 8 spoon- 
fuls of flour of mustard with 2 of salt and 9 
of water. Mix to a smooth paste, add 6 
spoonfuls more water, and mix. 

1785. Le Normand's Superior Table 
Mustard. Take of best floui- of mustard, 2 
pounds ; fresh parsley, chervil, celery, and 
tarragon, of each ^ ounce ; garlic, 1 clove ; 12 
salt anchovies (all well chopped) ; grind well 
together, add of salt, 1 ounce ; grape juice or 
sugar sufficient to sweeten, with sufficient 
water to form the mass into a thinnish paste 
by trituration in a mortar. TThen put into 
pots, a red-hot poker is to be thrust into each, 
and a little rinegar afterwards poured upon 
the surface. 

1786. Soyer's Table Mustard. Steep 
mustard seed in twice its bulk of distilled 
vinegar for 8 days; grind to a paste, and put 
it into pots, thrusting a red-hot poker into 
each. 

1787. Moutarde a I'Estragon. Gently 
dry 1 pound black mustard seed : then pow- 
der it tine, and mix it with 2 ounces salt, and 
sufficient tarragon vinegar to make a past€. 
In a similar way are prepared several other 
mustards, by employing vinegars flavored 
with the respective substances, or walnut or 
mushroom catsup, or the liquors of the richer 
pickles, in proportions to suit the taste. 



SAUCES, CATSUPS, AND PICKLES. 



183 



1788. Moutarde Superbe. Take of 
Bait, I5 pounds; scraped horseradish, 1 pound ; 
garlic, 2 cloves; boiling vinegar, 2 gallons; 
macerate in a covered vessel for 24 hours ; 
strain, and add of flour of mustard a sufficient 
quantity. 

1789. To Make Cayenne Pepper. 
This is prepared from the pods of the Chili or 
bird-pepper. The ripe pods, dried in the sun, 
are placed in layers with wheaten flour in a 
dish or tray, and exposed in a stove room or 
half cold oven until perfectly dry ; they are 
then removed from the flour and ground to 
fine powder ; to every ounce of this powder, 
15 ounces wheaten flour are added, and made 
into a dough with a little tepid water and a 
tea-spoonful of yeast ; after fermentation is 
well set up, the dough is cut into small pieces, 
and baked in a slow oven until perfectly hard 
and brittle. It is then beaten or ground to 
powder, and forms cayenne pepper. 

1790. Pickles. In making pickles, use 
none but the best cider vinegar, ^ever keep 
pickles in glazed earthenware, but in glass or 
hard stoneware, and well covered with vine- 
gar. They should be examined every month 
or two, and soft pieces removed. If there is 
much tendency to soften, it is advisable to 
strain ofl* the vinegar, add to each gallon a 
cupful of sugar, boil it, and retm-n it to the 
pickle jar while hot. The occasional addition 
of a little sugar keeps pickles good, and im- 
proves them. Spices in pickles should be used 
whole, slightly bruised, but preferably not 
ground ; if ground, they should be tied up in 
thin muslin bags. Most pickles, if well kept, 
improve with age, by the vinegar losing its 
raw taste, and the flavor of the spices, &c., 
improving and blending. {See Ko. 1766.) 

1791. Spiced Vinegar for Pickles 
Generally. Eruise in a mortar 2 ounces 
black pepper, 1 ounce ginger, 2 ounce allspice, 
and 1 ounce salt. If a hotter pickle is desired, 
add 5 drachm cayenne, or a few capsicums. 
Eor walnuts add also 1 ounce shallots. Put 
these in a stone jar, with a quart of vinegar, 
and cover them with a bladder wetted with 
the pickle, and over this a piece of leather. 
Set the jar near the fire for 3 days, shaking it 
3 times a day ; then pour it on the walnuts or 
other vegetables. To save time, it is usual to 
simmer the vinegar gently with the spices, 
which is best done in an enameled sauce- 
pan. For walnuts it is used hot; for cabbage, 
&c., cold. 

1792. Pickled Cauliflower. These 
should be sliced, and salted for 2 or 3 days, 
then drained, and spread upon a dry cloth be- 
fore the fire for 24 hom-s ; after which they 
are put into a jar, and covered with spiced 
vinegar. Dr. Kitchener says that if vegeta- 
bles are put into cold salt and water {^ 
pound salt to 1 quart water) and gradually 
heated to a boiling heat, it answers the same 
purpose as letting them lie some days in salt. 

1793. Pickled Cucumbers. CS^herkins. 
Small cucumbers, but not too young, are 
wiped clean with a dry cloth, put into a jar, 
and boiling vinegar, with a handful of salt, 
poured on them. Boil up the vinegar every 
3 days, and pour it on them till they become 
green ; then add ginger and pepper, and tie 
them up close for use. Or cover them with 
salt and water Cas above) in a stone jar, cover 



this and set them on the hearth before fhe 
fire for 2 or 3 days, tiU they tmn yellow; then 
put away the water, and cover them with hot 
vinegar, set them near the fire, and keep them 
hot for 8 or 10 days, till they become green ; 
then pour ofiP the vinegar, cover them with 
hot spiced vinegar, and keep them close. 
Half a dozen peppers improve a jar of cucum- 
bers, as the heat of the former is absorbed by 
the latter. 

1794. Pickled Onions. Let them lie 
in strong salt and water for 2 weeks; then 
take them out and peel them; put them in 
fresh salt and water for 2 weeks more ; take 
them out, wash them clean, and let them lie 
in fresh water all night. ]!^ext day place them 
on a cloth to drain; then put them in a jar, 
and pour over them hot spiced vinegar. If 
you wish them of a nice color, use white 
vinegar. 

1795. Pickled Onions. Peel small sil- 
ver button onions, and throw them into a 
stew-pan of boiling water; as soon as they 
look clear, take them out with a strainer-ladle, 
place them on a folded cloth covered with 
another, and when quite dry put them into a 
jar and cover them with hot spiced vinegar. 
(See No. 1791.) "WTien quite cold, bung them 
down, and cover with bladder wetted with the 
pickle. 

1796. Pickled Peppers. Soak fresh 
hard peppers in salt and water for 9 days, in 
a warm place, changing the brine every day. 
Then put them into cold vinegar. If the 
pickles are not required very hot, take out 
the seeds from the greater portion of the pep- 
pers. 

1797. Beetroot Pickles. Simmer the 
roots tiU 3 parts done (from 1-^- to 2^ hours); 
then take them out, peel and cut them in thin 
slices. Put them into a jar, and pour on 
sufficient cold spiced vinegar {see No. 1791) 
to cover them. 

1798. Pickled Walnuts. Take 100 
young walnuts, lay them in salt and water for 
2 or 3 days, changing the water every day. 
(If required to be soon ready for use, pierce 
each walnut with a larding pin, that the pickle 
may penetrate.) "Wipe them with a soft 
cloth, and lay them on a folded cloth for 
some hours. Then put them in a jar, and 
pour on sufficient hot spiced vinegar {see No. 
1791) to cover them. Or they may be al- 
lowed to simmer gently in strong vinegar, 
then put into ajar with a handful of mustard 
seed, 1 ounce ginger, | ounce mace, 1 ounce 
allspice, 2 heads of garlic, and 2 split nutmegs, 
and pour on them sufficient boihng vinegar to 
cover them. Dr. Kitchener recommends the 
walnuts to be gently simmered with the biine, 
then laid on a cloth for a day or two, till they 
turn black, put into a jar, and hot spiced vine- 
gar poured on them. 

1799. Pickled White Cabbage. Cut 
white cabbage into thin slices, put it into an 
earthen pan, sprinkle with salt, and let it lie 
for 2 days ; then drain and spread it out before 
the fire for some hours ; put it into a stone jar, 
and add sufficient white vinegar, or pale white 
vinegar, to cover, with a little mace and a few 
white pepper-corns. 

1800. Pickled Red Cabbage. Remove 
the outer leaves and stalks, and cut the cab- 
in quarters, then shred them into a ciil' 



184. 



YEAST. 



lender, and sprinkle with salt ; next day drain, 
put tliem into a jar, and pour on sufficient 
cold spiced vinegar to cover them. (See No. 
1791.) Others hang up the cabbage for a few 
days to dry, then shred the leaves, and put 
them in layers in a jar with a little salt, pep- 
per, and ginger, and fill up with cold vinegar. 
Others use vinegar without spice. 

1801. Pickled Nasturtiums, Frencli 
Beans, and other small green vegetables, are 
made in the same manner as directed for 
gherkins. (See No. 1793.) 

1802. Pickled Mushrooms. Clean 
the mushrooms with water and flannel, throw 
them into boiling salt and water in a stewpan, 
and boil for a few minutes. Drain them in a 
cullender, and spread out on a linen cloth, 
covering them with another. Put into bottles 
with a blade or two of mace, and fill up with 
white vinegar, pouring some melted mutton 
fat on the top, if intended to be kept long. 

1803. Pickled Tomatoes. Tomatoes 
are pickled in the same manner as cucumbers. 
(See No. 1793.) 

1804. Imitation Pickled Mangoes. 
Large cucumbers, or small melons, are split 
so that a marrow-spoon may be introduced, 
and the seeds scooped out; they are then par- 
boiled in brine strong enough to float an egg, 
dried on a cloth before the fire, filled with 
mustard seed and a clove of garlic, and then 
covered with spiced vinegar. (See No. 1791.) 
Eeal mangoes are pickled in the same way. 

1805. Piccalilli, Indian, or Mixed 
Pickle. To each gallon strong vinegar put 
4 ounces curry powder, 4 ounces good flour of 
mustard, 3 ounces bruised ginger, 2 ounces 
turmeric, 8 ounces skimmed shallots, and 2 
ounces garlic, the last two slightly baked, i 
pound salt and 2 drachms cayenne pei)per. 
Digest these near the fire, as directed in JSTo. 
1791 for spiced vinegar. Put into ajar, gher- 
kins, sliced cucumbers, shced onions, button 
onions, cauliflower, celery, French beans, nas- 
turtiums, capsicums, large cucumbers, and 
small melons. All except the capsicums to 
be parboiled in salt and water, drained, and 
dried on a cloth before the fire. The melons 
and large cucumbers to be prepared as direct- 
ed in last receipt for mangoes. Pour on them 
the above pickle. 

1806. Mixed Pickle. Take 1 pound 
ginger-root and i pound garlic (both pre- 
viously sa'ited and dried), 2 gallons vinegar, k 
ounce turmeric, and ^ pound long pepper. 
Digest together for 2 or 3 days near the fire 
in a stone jar; or gently simmer them in a 
pipkin or enameled saucepan. Then put in 
almost any vegetables except red cabbage and 
walnuts, all previously salted and dried. 



Yea;St. Teast is either the froth or 
the deposit of fermenting worts, accord- 
ing to the character of the fermentation. Ac- 
cording to Liebig, yeast is a substance in a 
state of putrefaction or fermentation, the 
atoms of which are in a continual motion, and 
this condition it communicates by contact, to 
fermentable substances. Liidersdorff con- 
siders yeast an organic body, acting on the 
sugar contained in the saccharine solution^ 



and not by mere contact and communication 
of its own condition. This view receives 
considerable support by examination of its 
particles by a microscope, and also from its 
fermenting power being destroyed by tritura- 
tion or strong pressure. Cooley believes both 
views to a certain extent correct, and that the 
atoms in a state of continual motion or change, 
referred to by Liebig, are developed by the 
organs of vital yeast, when in contact with 
sugar under circumstances favorable to fer- 
mentation. 

1 808. Preparation of Brewers' Yeast. 
To do this, 72 pounds unkilned malt and a 
handful of hops are gradually stirred in a 
clean tub containing 7 gallons water of 170° 
Fahr.; and to this 65 gallons water of 200° are 
added. The tub is then covered tightly and 
left quiet for 1 hour. Supposing this to be 
done at 6 P. M., the whole is left undisturbed 
till 7 o'clock next morning, when it must be 
cooled rapidly, which is done by setting in 
cans filled wilh cold water. Wlien the tem- 
perature of the mash has reached 70°, the tub 
is covered again and left during the day tiU 6 
P. M.; at this time 1^ gallons fresh beer yeast 
are to be stirred in. In 12 hours pierce a hole 
in the layer formed by the husks of the malt, 
and dip 31 gallons of the liquor beneath, then 
stir the whole up and dip If gallons from it 
(husks and Hquor). This is the mother-barm, 
from which you can generate yeast all the 
year round in using it in the way described 
instead of the ordinary beer leaven. To the 
remainder in the tub add 5 gallons wort of 
90° (see No. 858), and make use of it in within 
2 hours. The mother-yeast also must be 
used the same day for fermenting another 
portion. 

1809. Yeast for Hot Climates. Boil 
2 ounces of the best hops in 4 quarts water 
for k hour ; strain it, and let the liquor cool 
down to new milk warmth. Then put in a 
small handful of salt and i pound brown sugar; 
beat up 1 pound best flour with some of the 
liquor, and mix all well together. The third 
day add 3 pounds potatoes boiled and mashed, 
and let it stand until the next day. Then 
strain, and it is ready for use. Stir frequently 
while making, and keep near a fire. Before 
using, stir weU ; it will keep 2 or 3 months in 
a cool place. This yeast is very strong ; half 
the usual quantity necessary for a baking is 
sufficient. This yeast may be kept in a tem- 
perature as high as 104° Fahr. 

1810. To" Prepare Yeast without a 
Ferment. Common wheat flour is to be 
mixed with water into a thick paste, and 
kept, shghtly covered, in a moderately warm 
place, for some time. About the third day 
it begins to emit a little gas, and to exhale a 
disagreeable, sour odor, like stale milk ; after 
the lapse of a few days, that is, about the 
sixth or seventh day, the smell changes, much 
gas is evolved, accompanied by a distinct and 
agreeable vinous odor, and it is then in a 
state to excite the vinous fermentation. A 
quantity of wort is next to be prepared, and 
boiled with hops, in the same manner as in 
the brewing of beer (see No. 858), and when 
cooled to 90° or 100° Fahr., the decomposed 
dough, thoroughly mixed with tepid water, is 
to be added, and the whole kept in a warm 
situation. After the lapse of a few hours, 



THE FLOWEB AND KITCHEN GABDEN. 



185 



active fermentation takes place, carbonic acid 
is disengaged, and ^rheu the action is complete, 
and the liquor clear, a large quantity of 3'east, 
of excellent quality, is found at the bottom of 
the vessel. 

1811. To Make Yeast without a Fer- 
ment. Boil ^ peck malt in 3 pints water; 
pour off 2 pints, and keep it in a warm place 
for 30 hours ; add 4 pints of a similar decoc- 
tion, stir it well in, again ferment, and repeat 
this addition of 4 pints until a sufficient quan- 
tity of yeast is obtained ; 10 pints will yield 
yeast sufficient for a brewing of 40 gallons; it 
is preferable to brewers' yeast, particularly 
when used for raising dough. 

1812. To Make Good Yeast without 
Perment. Put 2 ounces best hops into 9 
pints cold water; boil ^ hour, strain while 
hot, and add 2 ounces fine table salt and 5 
pound sugar. TVTien the mixture becomes 
blood-warm, put 1 pound sifted flour into a 
large basin, make a well in the centre with 
the hand, add the liquor by degrees, stirring 
with a spoon until the whole is thoroughly 
incorporated. Let it stand for 2 days in a 
warm place, stii-ring it 3 or 4 times a day; 
then boil and mash finely 3 pounds good po- 
tatoes, and mix them in. After standing 1 
day more, there should be a heavy dark scum 
on the surface. Stu' it thoroughly, strain 
through a sieve or cullender, put it into a 
stone jar, cork and tie down firmly, and keep 
in a cool cellar. This is a self-fermenting 
yeast, improves by keepingif not left uncorked, 
and will not make som- bread. 

1813. To Make Yeast with a Fer- 
ment. Mix 2 quarts water with wheat flour, 
to the consistence of thick gruel ; boil it gently 
for ^ hour, and when almost cold, stir into it 
5 pound sugar and 4 spoonfuls good yeast. 
Put the whole in a large jug or earthen vessel, 
with a narrow top, and place it before the fire, 
so that it may, by a moderate heat, ferment. 
The fermentation will throw up a thin liquor, 
which pour ofi" and throw away; keep the 
remainder for use (in a cool place) in a bottle, 
or jug tied over. The same quantity of this 
as of common yeast will suffice to bake or 
brew with. 4 spoonfuls of this yeast will 
make a fresh quantity as before, and the stock 
may be always kept up, by fermenting the 
new with the remainder of the former quantity. 

1814. Patent Yeast. Simmer 6 ounces 
hops in 3 gallons water for 3 hours ; strain it, 
and in 10 minutes stir in ^ peck groimd malt, 
i^ext re-boil the hops in water, and add the 
liquor to the mash aheady made, which must 
be well stirred up. covered over, and left for 4 
hours ; then drain ofi" the wort, and when 
cooled down to 90° Fahr., set it to work with 
1 pint yeast (patent is best) ; after standing 
for 20 to 24 hoiu's, take ofi" the scum, strain it 
through a coarse hair sieve, and it is ready for 
use. 1 pint is said to be enough for 1 bushel 
of bread. 

1815. To Preserve Yeast. Ordinary 
beer yeast may be kept fresh and fit for use 
for several months, by placing it in a close 
canvas bag, and gently squeezing out the 
moisture in a screw press till the remaining 
matter becomes as stiff as clay, in which state 
it muBt be preserved in close vessels. 

1816. To Remedy Bitterness in 
Yeast. Teast is often so bitter as to com- 



municate a most disagreeable taste to bread. 
This may be derived irom an excess of hops. 
To rectify this, mix with the yeast a consider- 
able quantity of water, and set it by to rest 
for some hours, when the thickest part will 
fall to the bottom. Pour off the water, 
which will have extracted part of the bitter 
principle, and use only the stiff portion that 
has fallen to the bottom. But yeast sometimes 
acquires a bitter taste from keeping, which is 
quite independent of that derived from the 
hops. To remedy this, throw into the yeast 
a few clean coals freshly taken from the fire, 
but allowed to cool a little on the surface.. 
The operation appears to depend in principle 
upon the power of freshly burnt charcoal to 
absorb gases and remove offensive odors. 

1817. Baking Powder. This is chiefly 
employed as a substitute for yeast. 1 or 2 
tea-spoonfuls are mixed with the dry flour 
and other ingredients, which are then made 
into a dough, as quickly as possible, with cold 
water, and at once baked or boiled, as the case 
may be. By the addition of about i drachm 
turmeric powder to each pound of baking 
powder, it is converted into egg poivder. 
These preparations should be kept in well 
corked bottles or tins, to prevent absorption 
of moisture. 

1818. To Make Baking Powder. 
Powder and thoroughly dry separately, by 
gentle heat, ^ pound tartaric acid, f pound 
pure bicarbonate of soda, and f pound potato 
farina; mix them in a dry room, pass the 
mixture through a sieve, and at once put into 
packages, observing to press it hard, and to 
cover it with tinfoil or close-made paper, and 
to preserve it as much as possible from air and 
moisture. Or : Mix and pack, as just described, 
J pound tartaric acid, 5 pound alum, f pound 
pure bicarbonate of soda, 1 poimd farina, and 
3 ounces sesquicarbonate of ammonia. Or : 5 
pounds tartaric acid, 8 pounds pure sesqui- 
carbonate of soda, and 16 pounds farina. In 
using, 1 or 2 tea-spoonfuls are mixed with the 
dry flour, which is then made up quickly with 
cold water, and baked immediately. Any 
other flour or starch may be used instead of 
the potato flour. 



R 



eoeipts for tlie Flo^^er 
and Kitchen Garden. 

The aim of the following receipts is to afibrd 
information for the treatment of ornamental 
in-door plants, and for the general requirements 
and improvement of the flower and kitchen 
garden, without entering into the principles of 
either agriculture or horticulture. 

1820. To Dissolve Bones for Ma- 
nure. Break the bones into small x)ieces, or 
pulverize them, if the means are available; 
put them into a hole in the ground, or, prefer- 
ably, a stone tank. Pour upon them about 
40 pounds oil of vitriol to 100 pounds bones, 
^ork the mixture with long wooden poles 
until the mass is uniform. Allow it to re- 
main 24 hours, by which time it will be per- 
fectly dry. A couple of shovelfuls added 
daily to a dung-heap will form a fine compost. 

Bones may also be dissolved by filling an 
old barrel with alternate layers of wood ashes 



186 



THE FLOWER AXD KITCHEN GARDEN. 



and fresh bones, slightly vettmg from time to 
time with hot water. This is a more econom- 
ical plan than by the nse of snlphnric acid, 
and is said to make a more soluble compound. 

1821. Composts for Improving the 
Soil. Composts are mixtures of several 
earthS; or earthy s^ibstances, or dungs, either 
for the improvement of the general soil under 
cultivation, or for the culture of particular 
plants. In respect to composts for the soil of 
the garden, their quality must depend upon 
that of the natural soil ; if this be light, loose, 
or sandy, it may be assisted by heavy loams, 
clays, etc., from ponds and ditches, cleanings 
of sewers, etc. On the other hand, heavy 
clayey and all stubborn sods may be assisted 
by light composts of sandy earth, drift, and 
sea-sand, the shovelings of turnpike roads, 
the cleansing of streets, all kinds of ashes, 
rotten tanners' bark, rotten wood, sawdust, 
and other similar light opening materials that 
can be most conveniently procured. 

1822. To Prepare Composts. The 
preparation necessary for heavy and light 
composts for general enrichment, and of the 
above different earths, consists in collecting 
each soil in the compost ground, in separate 
ridges of 3 or 4 feet broad, and as high, turn- 
ing them every 6 weeks or 2 months for a year 
or a year and a half before they are used. 
Peat earth, being generally procured in the 
state of turf full of the roots and tops of heath, 
requires 2 or 3 years to rot ; but after it has 
lain 1 year it may be sifted, and what passes 
through a small sieve will be found tit for use. 
Some nurserymen use both these loams and 
peats as soon as procured, and find them 
answer perfectly for most plants ; but for 
delicate flowers, and especially bulbs, and all 
florists' flowers, and for all composts in which 
manm-es enter, not less than 1 year ought to be 
allowed for decomposition and sweetening. 

1823. Universal Composts. The pre- 
paration of many separate kinds of composts 
may be obviated by the general use of the 
following mixtm-e : Fibrous peat, 1 part ; leaf- 
mould, 2 parts ; thoroughly rotted dung, 1 
part ; light hazelly loam, 4 parts ; and 1 part 
sharp sand. There is scarcely any flowering 
plant but will grow well in such a mixture, 
and if peat is not to be had, an additional part 
of leaf-mould may take its place. 

1824. liiquid Manure. The principal 
materials now used for liquid manm-es are to 
be used in the following proportions for all or- 
dinary purposes : Guano, dissolve 50 pounds 
weight in 10 gallons water, and of this strong 
solution, add 5 ounces to 10 gallons of water 
for use. Sheep's-dung, 1 peck to 30 gallons. 
Sulphate of ammonia, 1^ ounces to every 
gallon. 

1825. Liquid Guano to Hasten the 
Blowing" of Flowers. To hasten the blow- 
ing of flowers the following hquid has been 
used with great advantage : Sulphate or 
nitrate of ammonia, 4 ounces; nitrate of 
potash, 2 ounces ; sugar, 1 omice ; hot water, 
1 pint ; dissolve and keep it in a well-corked 
bottle. For use, put 8 or 10 drops of this 
liquid into the water of a hyacinth-glass or 
jar for bulbous-rooted plants, changing the 
water every 10 or 12 days. For flowering 
plants in pots, a few drops must be added to 
the water employed to moisten them. 



1826. Artificial Manure for Clover. 

Mix together 10 parts each sulphate of am- 
monia, common salt, and oil of vitriol; 15 
parts chloride of potassium; 17 parts each 
gypsum (plaster of Paris) and sulphate of 
potassa; 20 parts saltpetre; 25 parts crade 
Epsom salt (sulphate of magnesia) ; and 33 
parts sulphate of soda (Grlauber salts.) 

1827. Artificial Manure for Wheat, 
Turnips, or Grass. Take 28 pounds crude 
potash, 1 cwt. common salt, 2 cwt. each bone 
dust and gypsum (plaster of Paris), and 15 
bushels wood ashes. Mix them together. 

1828. Artificial Guano. Mix 11 pounds 
dry sulphate of soda (Glauber salts) with 28 
pounds wood ashes ; 84 pounds common salt ; 
112 pounds crude sulphate of ammonia ; and 
7 bushels bone dust. 

1829. Fertilizing Powder. To 18 
parts very fine bone dust add 1 part each 
gypsum (plaster of Paris) and sulphate of 
ammonia. The seed shoiild be steeped in 
the drainings from a dunghill ; and after be- 
ing drained, but while still wet, should be 
sprmkled with the powder and then dried. 

1830. Phosphate for Manuring. 
Macerate for some days, with frequent stir- 
ring, 2 parts crushed bones in 1 part oil of vit- 
riol and 3 parts water. This forms a super- 
phosphate of lime, which, mixed with water, 
dry earth, or sand, forms an excellent manure. 

1831. How to Select and Manage 
Cuttings. The choice of cuttings should be 
made from the side shoots of trees and plants, 
and, when possible, from such as recline 
towards the ground, observing to leave a little 
wood of a former year or season's growth 
attached to them, as such are found to take 
root more readily than when they are wholly 
composed of new wood. The time to take 
cuttings is as soon as the sap gets into full 
motion. Before setting them they should be 
cut across, just below an eye or joint, with as 
smooth a section as possible, observing not to 
injure the bud. The supei-fluous leaves may 
be removed, but a sufficient number should be 
left on for the pui-poses of vegetation. The 
practice of removing all or nearly all of the 
leaves of cuttings is injudicious. In some 
cases leaves alone will strike root. In the 
case of tubular stalked plants, it is said to be 
advantageous to insert both ends into the soil, 
each of which will take root, and may then be 
divided, when two plants will be produced 
instead of one. An equable temperature, a 
moist atmosphere, a shady situation, and 
a moderate supply of water, are the princi- 
pal requisites to induce speedy rooting. Ex- 
cess of any of these is prejudicial. TThen the 
size of the cuttings admits, it is better to 
place them under a hand or bell glass, which 
will preserve a constant degree of heat, and 
prevent evaporation from the surface of the 
leaves, which is the most common cause of 
then- dying, especially in hot, dry weather. 
TVhat the degree of heat ought to be is deci- 
ded by the degree of heat requisite for the 
mother plant. Most species of the erica, 
dahha, and geranium, strike better when sup- 
plied with rather more heat than is requisite 
for the growth of these plants in green-houses. 
Cuttings of the myrtle tribe, camelHas, and 
most other plants, require rather less heat 
than the plants in then growing state. 



THE FLOWER AND KITCHEN GARDEN. 



187 



1832. To Insert Cuttings. Cuttings, 
if inserted in a mere mass of earth, will hard- 
ly throw out roots, while, if inserted at the 
side of the pot so as to touch the pot in their 
whole length, they seldom fail to become 
rooted plants. The art is to place them to 
touch the bottom of the pot ; they are then 
to be plunged in a bark or hot-bed and kept 
moist. 

1833. The Color of Flowers Changed 
by Charcoal. A horticulturist in England 
purchased a rose-bush full of promising buds 
— the flowers, however, were of a faded hue. 
He covered the earth in the pot about an 
inch thick with pulverized charcoal, and was 
surprised, some days afterward, to find the 
blooms of a fine lively rose color. He then 
tried the powdered charcoal upon petunias, 
and found that both the white and violet col- 
ored flowers were equally sensitive to its ac- 
tion. It always gave great vigor to the red 
or violet color of the flowers, and the white 
petunias became veined with red or violet 
tints ; the violets became covered with irreg- 
ular spots of a bluish or almost black tint. 
Many persons who admired them thought 
they were choice new varieties from the seed. 
Yellow flowers appear to be insensible to the 
influence of charcoal. 

1834. To Turn White Flowers Red. 
The juice of the Yirginian pokeweed sprin- 
kled on the white hyacinth will tm-n it red. 
The same eff'ect is produced on many other 
white flowers. 

1835. To Preserve Cut Flowers. 
Place a vase containing the cut flowers in the 
centre of a flat dish, into which a little water 
has been poured ; invert a bell glass over the 
vase, so that the rim of the glass is covered 
by the water, thus forming an air-tight cham- 
ber. The air surrounding the flowers -vsill be 
constantly moist, and will remain so as long 
as the suj>ply of water in the dish is kept un- 
diminished. Y"e recommend those who love 
to see plenty of fresh flowers in their sitting- 
rooms in dry weather, to adopt this plan. 
The experiment can be tried by inverting a 
tumbler orer a rose-bud in a saucer of water. 
If some charcoal has been previously steeped 
in the water, or a small piece of camphor dis- 
solved, it will greatly assist in keeping the 
flowers fresh. Yiolets may be preserved for a 
long time by sticking them with short stems 
into a glass dish filled with damp silver-sand, 
and then inverting a tumbler over them. 

1836. To Preserve Flowers. Flowers 
may be preserved for many months by dip- 
ping them carefully, as soon as gathered, in 
perfectly limpid gum water; after allowing 
them to drain for 2 or 3 minutes, arrange them 
in a vase. The gum forms a complete coating 
on the stems and petals, and preserves their 
shape and color long after they have become 
dry. 

1837. Preservation of Flowers with 
their Natural Colors. The mode in which 
the operation is efiected is this: A vessel 
with a movable cover and bottom is provided, 
and having removed the cover from it, a piece 
of metallic gauze of moderate fineness is 
fixed over it, and the cover replaced. A 
quantity of sand is then taken, sufficient to 
nU the vessel, and passed through a sieve into 
an iron pot, where it is heated, with the addi- 



tion of a small quantity of stearine, carefully 
stirred, so as to thoroughly mix the ingredi- 
ents. The quantity of stearine to be added is 
at the rate of 5 pound to 100 pounds of sand. 
Care must be taken not to add too much 
stearine, as it would sink to the bottom and 
injui-e the flowers. The vessel, with its cover 
on and the gauze beneath it, is then turned 
upside down, and, the bottom being removed, 
the flowers to be operated upon are carefully 
placed on the gauze and the sand gently 
poured in, so as to cover the flowers entirely, 
the leaves being thus prevented from touch- 
ing each other. The vessel is then put into a 
hot place, such, for instance, as the top of a 
baker's oven, where it is left for 18 hours. 
The flowers thus become dried, and they re- 
tain their natm'al colors. The vessel still re- 
maining bottom upwards, the lid is taken off", 
and the sand runs away through the gauze^ 
leaving the flowers uninjured. 

1838. To Preserve Flowers in Wa- 
ter. Mix a little saltpetre or carbonate of 
soda with water, and it will preserve the 
flowers for 2 weeks. 

1839. To Restore Faded Flowers. 
Faded flowers may be generally restored by 
immersing them half-way up their stems in 
very hot water, and allowing them to remain 
in it until it cools, or they have recovered. 
They must then be removed, the coddled por- 
tion of the stems cut off", and placed in clean 
cold water. In this way a great number of 
faded flowers may be restored, but there are 
some of the more delicate kinds on which it 
proves useless. 

1 840. To Raise Hyacinths in Winter. 
Put the bulbs in glasses or earth, and set them 
in a dark closet to sprout. If in glasses, the 
water shrould not be higher than 1 inch below 
the bulb, until the roots have reached the wa- 
ter, when the glasses may be filled up, a piece 
of charcoal put in the water, and the plants 
set in the sun to grow. 

1841. Soot Water for Roses. Put 
the soot obtained from the pipe or chimney 
of a wood fire, into a pitcher, and pour hot 
water upon it. "When cool, use the liquid oc- 
casionally to water the rose plants. Its effects 
are extraordinary in strengthening the growth 
of the plants and flowers. 

1842. To Make Hydrangea Flowers 
Blue. If they are grown in , a tolerably 
strong maiden loam, which contaius a portion 
of oxide of iron, the flowers will become blue 
without further trouble ; but they will require 
to be potted in this said compost, and con- 
tinually grown in the same, from the cutting 
pot, to ensure their flowers coming blue. If 
the soil itself will not make the flower blue, 
they should be watered with a solution of 
alum for some time previous to flowering. 
The solution may be made by mixing at the 
rate of 1 ounce alum to a gallon of rain water. 
The plants should be struck from small cut- 
tings of the soft wood, from Febraary till 
May, that are required to flower in those 
months the following year. They should be 
potted in time enough for their roots to fill 
them before winter. It is advisable to flower 
them the following spring in the pots, allow- 
ing the plants to produce only one cluster of 
flowers each, and taking off airthe suckers and 
side shoots to strike for flowering the follow- 



188 



TRE FLOWEE AND KITCSEN GABDEN. 



ing spring, as old plants cannot be depended 
upon to produce blue flowers. If -g- j)ai't of 
iron filings be mixed with, the earth, in which 
the plant is grown, it will frequently, although 
not always, change from its original pink 
color to a light blue. A cutting, however, 
taken from the plant thus changed, and grown 
without u'on filing, reverts to its previous 
color. 

1843. To Prevent Damping or Tog- 
ging Off. Cuttings in heat, and seedlings 
pricked out, are very liable to damp off, if in 
a confined air, with too much moisture. The 
best mode of treatment is, as soon as evidences 
of damping appear, to give more au', and in- 
crease the temperature 5 degrees, and, at the 
same time, to sprinkle the surface of the soil 
with a mixture of silver-sand and powdered 
peat, crumbled to the fineness of snuff. 

1844. To Remedy American Blight. 
Take ^ peck quicklime, 5 pound flowers of 
sulphur, and J pound lampblack. Mix with 
boifing water, enough to form a thick paint. 
IVith this, in the winter, when the leaves are 
off, paint the branches, having first removed 
all loose bark. In doing this, be sure to re- 
move the soil from the bottom of the stem to 
the mam roots, and paint aU the underground 
part. February is a good time for this. If 
one application is not sufiicient, repeat. Use 
the paint warm. "When this has become dry, 
the trees should be looked over, and all cracks 
and holes stopped with well worked clay, and 
after frost the clay- stoppings should be dressed 
again, to close any cracks that may occur. 

1 845. To Destroy Aphides, and Other 
Insects on Plants. Take of quassia chips, Si- 
ounces ; larkspur seed, 5 drachms ; boil these 
together in 7 pints water until the decoction 
is reduced to 5 pints. When the liquid is cooled 
it is to be strained, and used with a watering- 
pot or syringe, as may be most convenient. 
This is a most excellent method of destroying 
insects on plants, without injury to the latter. 
It is recommended by the highest authorities. 

1846. Bhght on Fruit Trees, Hoses, 
and Pruit Bushes. "When winter dressings 
have failed, and the pests appear in spring to 
such an extent as to endanger the crop, pro- 
cure a quantity of ammoniacal liquor from 
the gas-works, and to every pailful of the li- 
quor add 6 of water, and boil as soon as pos- 
sible in a large copper. Apply this in the 
evening, hot, with a syringe, drenching every 
part of the trees, and letting not a leaf escape. 
It should be used as hot as can be borne by 
placing the hand in it, and thrown with as 
much force as possible into all the crevices in 
the bark, on the under sides of the leaves, and 
splashed vigorously against the wall on which 
espahers are trained. It may be used also for 
roses and fruit bushes, with the most certain 
benefit. Two days after give another syring- 
ing with plain warm water. To clean the 
copper in which the mixture is prepared, fill 
it with water, throw in a shovel of cinder 
ashes and a pound of soda, and let it boil for 
half an hour. 

1 847. To Prevent Ants from Injuring 
Fruit Trees. Make a line of gas-tar round 
the stem of the tree, or if it be trained on a 
wan, make a horizontal line near the ground, 
on the wall, and one round the stem; this 
wiU prevent ants from ascending. 



1848. To Destroy Black Ants. Boil 

4 ounces quassia chips in 1 gallon water, for 
10 minutes, and add 4 ounces soft soap. This 
is excellent to destroy black ants. Or: 
Sprinkle pulverized borax over the plants or 
places infested by these vermin. (See No. 
1909.) 

1849. To Prevent Mildew on Trees. 
The best preventive against mildew is to keep. 
the plant subject to it occasionally syringed 
with a decoction of elder leaves, which wiU 
prevent the fungus growing on them. 

1850. To Remove Mildew from Roses, 
Pelargoniums, Etc. Mildew has been suc- 
cessfully removed from roses and pelargon- 
iums, by dissolving 1 ounce nitre to 1 gallon 
.water, and watering the plants with it occa- 
sionally ; another way is to wash the diseased 
parts with a decoction of elder leaves. But 
the most effectual remedy is flowers of sul- 
phur dusted over the foliage, by means of a 
dredging-box with very fine holes. 

1851. To Remove Green Fly. Choose 
a still evening, and let the plants be quite dry. 
Arrange them together in a close place ; put 
into an iron pan, or a flower-pot, a few red-hot 
cinders that do not smoke, upon which lay 
the tobacco or tobacco-paper; a cloud of 
smoke will soon arise. "When the frame is 
well filled with smoke, remove the pan, and 
be exceedingly careful that the tobacco does 
not break out into a flame. 

. 1852. To Fumigate Plants with To- 
bacco Smoke. There are various modes of 
employing the smoke of tobacco for the de- 
struction of insect pests in plant houses, but 
the best is as follows : — According to the size 
of the place to be fumigated provide one or 
more pieces of cast-iron 1 inch thick and 3 
inches of surface. Make these red-hot and 
place each in a large-sized pot ; and on them 
as much tobacco as may be considered neces- 
sary to completely fill the house with smoke. 
An ordinary eight-light house will require 3 
heaters, and 1 pound of tobacco, divided into 
3 equal parts. If the tobacco is previously 
soaked in a strong solution of saltpetre, its 
ignition is more rapid and complete, and a less 
quantity suifices. 

1853. To Drive Worms out of Pots. 
Securely cork up all the drainage holes in the 
pot, and then fiood it for several hours with 
clear Kme-water. 

1854. To Destroy Green Fly. Syr- 
inge the plants with tobacco water. One part 
ammoniacal liquor from the gas-works, mixed 
with 5 or more parts of water, according to 
its strength, will also destroy the insects. 

1855. Wash to Prevent Cattle from 
Barking Trees. Take f cow-dung and -J- 
lime; mix with a little water, to the consist- 
ency of thick lime-wash, and lay this on the 
stems of the trees as far as the cattle can 
reach. 

1856. To Prevent Grub in Onions. 
Make some strong hme-water, add to it as 
much soot as will make it into a thin paint, 
and water the crop with it the moment the 
maggot appears. This soot mixture is so stim- 
ulating a manm-e that it should always be 
used to increase the weight of the crop. 
House-slops mixed with lime and soot would 
be still more powerful, both to destroy mag- 
got and improve the plant ; but unless rain 



THE FLOWER AND KITCHEN GAEDEN. 



189 



followed immediately, it would be advisable 
to drench the ground with pure water the day 
after application. Ground intended for a crop 
of large onions should be prepared in the au- 
tumn, and after being dug over, should be 
watered with a mixture of sulphuric acid and 
water, made so strong as to burn the tongue. 
This will destroy every animal in the soil, and 
the winter rains will wash it away entirely 
before spring. 

1857. To Prevent Attacks of Red 
Spider. In cases where the infested plants 
can be well syringed, a few times repeating 
this operation will cause them to disappear. 
When this cannot be resorted to with safety, 
the flues or pipes may be washed over with 
sulphur, and should be kept warm to raise an 
effluvia in the house, which will soon eradi- 
cate these pests. If a little soft soap is 
mixed with the water to syringe with, it will 
prove obnoxious to many other insects as weU 
as red spider, and will not injure the foliage of 
the plant, providing the plants are not syr- 
inged when the scorching hot sun is upon 
them. 

1858. To KiU Thrips on Cucumbers 
and Melon Plants. To kill thrips on cu- 
cumbers and melon plants, they should be 
syringed with tobacco water, and a little sul- 
phur added, or with a decoction of elder 
leaves ; either of these repeated a few times 
will suffice; or the infested parts may be 
dusted over with flowers of sulphur, and al- 
lowed to remain on for 3 or 4 days, when it 
should be washed ofi" thoroughly with a 
syringe. {See No. 18o0.) 

1859. To Destroy Maggot in Roses. 
A bushel of unslacked lime in powder, 3 
pound sulphur also in powder; mix these 
well whilst dry, then add water to make it 
about as thick as molasses, and boil for 1 horn-; 
then add just enough soot, moistened to the 
same consistence, to darken the color; lay 
this on with a brush all over, stock and head, 
in the latter part of March. 

1860. To Destroy Moss on Fruit 
Trees. Every second year fruit trees should 
be well scrubbed with a scrubbing brush 
dipped in strong brine, so as to moisten every 
part of the bark of the stem and branches. 
This not only destroys the moss, but in- 
sects of all kinds, and is beneficial to all trees, 
whereas apphcations of lime choke up the 
respiratory pores, and sometimes produce 
canker. 

1861. To Remove Moss on Gravel 
Walks. This may be kept down by the use 
of a broom made of wire; if the wire is made 
of iron the broom should be well dried and 
dipped in oil before and after being used. 

1862. To Protect Lettuce and Straw- 
berry Beds from Snails. If the beds are 
surrounded by a slate or board edging, made 
to stand 5 inches above the ground, and occa- 
sionally coated with a paste made of train 
oil and soot, it will form a barrier over which 
snails wiU not pass. 

1 863. To Prove Cucumber and Melon 
Seed. "When the fruit is first cut, the seed 
should be put into a bowl of water, and that 
which swims on the surface is worthless ; the 
good will sink to the bottom. This can only 
be depended upon at the time the fruit is first 
cut ; if the seed has been dried and kept for 



any length of time, it will probably all swim, 
though it has not lost its vegetating proper- 
ties. 

1864. To Clean Cucumber and Melon 
Seed. Take all the seeds that sink in water 
and put them into a hah- sieve ; pour some 
warm water over them that has been heated 
to 90° or 95° Fahr., and then rub the seeds 
about in the sieve. The wann water will di- 
vest them of the glutinous matter, and it 
may be easily rubbed off" them through the 
sieve, after which they may be laid to dry. 
Cucumber and melon seeds will vegetate after 
they have been kept for years. 

1865. To Kill Moss on Lawns. "Water 
the lawn with a weak solution of ammoniacal 
liquor {see No. 1854) ; 1 gallon of this liquor 
is sufficient to mix with A gallons of water, 
and should be put on with a rose water-pot. 
It wiU cause the grass to look brown after- 
wards for a while, but it wUl ])ecome green 
again. Another way is to procure some very 
fine siftings of coal-ashes, and sow them 
all over the parts where moss abounds. It 
will only be requisite to sow them very thinly/, 
and if done just before a shower of rain, so 
much the bettor, as the rain will wash it in ; 
this will kill t:.j moss without injuring the 
grass. The presence of moss indicates that 
the soil is exhausted, and a top-dressing of 
nitrate of soda or soot will be found beneficial.. 
If the grass is made to thrive, it will always 
choke the moss. {See No. 1876.) 

1866. To Kill Moss on Meadow Land., 
The mossy parts of the meadow should be 
well manared with good well-rotted stable 
dung in the autumn ; and, if practicable, the 
grass should be fed off the following spring 
with sheep. Mtrate of soda sown on the, 
mossy parts of the field will also kill the) 
moss, and is an excellent manure for the grass;! 
but this should not be sown at the rate of 
more than 11 cwt. per acre. ) 

1867. To Kill Docks, Dandelions, etc.' 
Cut the tops off in the spring or summer 
time, and pour some gas-tar, or sprinkle 
some salt on the wound. Either of these 
will kill the root, by eating to the very ex-' 
tremity. 

1868. To Destroy Burdocks. Cut 
close to the ground with a sharp hoe, and 
apply a few drops of kerosene. The plant so' 
treated will never appear again. 

1869. To Prevent the Growth, of 
Weeds in Garden Walks. A weak solu-' 
tion of carbohc acid applied wit'h a watering- 
pot to garden walks will be an effectual mode 
of preventing the growth of weeds. The so- 
lution should not be stronger than 1 part pure 
carbolic acid to 1000 to 2000 parts water. 
Pm-e carbolic acid is a virulent poison. "When 
applied in too strong a solution, larger plants 
may suffer ; very weak solutions destroy only 
very small plants and animals, as parasites, 
miasma. Even flies and mosquitoes avoid its 
odor and mav be driven away by it. 

1870. To Destroy Thistles, Grass, 
and Weeds, in Gravel Walks. Sow 
coarse salt upon the plants; the thistles 
should be first cut to tlie ground, and the 
fresh roots be covered with the salt. The 
refuse article from the beef, pork, or salt 
fish barrel is quite good enough, and may be 
employed for this purpose. 



190 



THE FLOWER AND KITCHEN GABDEN. 



1871. Cleanliness for Plants. Fre- 
quently the cause of the languidness of plants 
in rooms, arises from Tvant of care in cleans- 
ing the leaves. Plants breathe by then- 
leaves, which should be kept perfectly clean, 
otherwise their respiration is interfered with. 
The mere watering of the roots is not enough. 
Plants also perspire by their leaves, and any 
accumulation of dirt and dust retards this 
useful function. Plants also feed by their 
leaves, by absorbing the carbonic acid of the 
atmosphere; and, to speak familiarly, dirt 
destroys both their appetite and digestion. 
Let any one examine a sickly plant, long kept 
in a sitting-room, or draw a piece of white 
linen or leather over the surface of the leaves, 
and he will probably discover the cause of the 
plant's drooping, 

1872. To Keep Cucumbers Fresh. 
"When the cucumbers are at their best they 
should be cut, and laid in a box made just to 
fit them, and then bury the box in some dry 
sand, covering it over to the depth of a foot. 
There should not be any hay or moss put with 
them in the box, as it will cause them to turn 
yellow. If laid in the box without hay or 
moss, their color and bloom may be preserved 
for two weeks to look as fresh as the day they 
|Were cut. Melons may also be kept in the 
same way. 

1873. To Cure Gumming in Fruit 
Trees. The place where the gum accumu- 
lates should be well washed and cleaned, and 
then stopped well up with a paste made of 
horse-dung, clay and tar. This wiU prevent 
the accumulation of the gum, and will assist 
the wound in healing over. 

1874. To Prevent the Bottoms of 
Plant Sticks Rotting. Dip the bottoms of 
the plant sticks (as far as they are inserted 
into the ground) into hot asphalt three or 
fom- times, until the asphalt is the iV of ^^ 
inch thickness on them; this wUl preserve 
them a long time. Those that have not the 
convenience of dipping them in asphalt, may 
substitute tar, and they will endure nearly as 
long as those that have been asphalted. 

1875. To Destroy "Weeds and "Worms 
in Gravel "Walks. Lay a coat of salt all 
over the walk, and then water it, using a rose 
water-pot ; but this should not be done where 
there is a box edging, or it will kill that like- 
wise. "Where the edging is turf, slate, or tiles, 
there is nothing to fear. 

1876. To Destroy "Worms in Lawns, 
Grass Plots, etc. Mix at the rate of 10 
pounds slacked lime to 30 gallons water ; stir 
it up well together, and then let it stand for 2 
or 3 days, in which time pour it off the sedi- 
ment, and water the lawn with it by means 
of a rose water-pot ; this will fetch the worms 
out on the top of the ground, and they will 
require to be swept up with a broom and car- 
ried away. The best time to do this is in damp 
weather, as the worms are then nearer the 
smface; and the lawn should be rolled the 
evening previous, which will not only assist 
in bringing the worms nearer the surface, but 
will fill up all the holes they have forsaken. 
The following night they will again open the 
holes in which they lie, and thereby afford 
the water greater facility to reach them the 
next day without wasting much by its soak- 
ing into forsaken holes. Diluted ammoniacal 



liquor will answer the same purpose, but it 
will make the grass look brown for some time 
afterwards. (See No. 1865.) 

1877. Composition for "Wounds on 
Rose-Bushes. Take 5 parts black pitch, 1 
part each resin, taUow, and bees' wax ; these 
should be mixed in a small pipkin, and dis- 
solved over a slow fire. Apply it to the 
wounds with a brush, and it will heal them, 
as well as prevent their dying back. 

1878. Bleeding in Vines. Work to- 
gether 1 part calcined oyster- shells beaten to 
tine powder in a mortar, and 3 parts cheese, 
until they form a sort of paste. This mixture 
is to be forced into the pores of the wood 
where bleeding takes place, by means of the 
thumb and finger. A second application is 
sometimes necessary. (See Nos. 1880 and 
1881.) 

1879. Composition for Healing 
"Wounds in Trees. Take 3 parts pounded 
chalk and 1 part common vegetable tar ; mix 
thoroughly, and boU them with a low heat 
till the composition becomes of the consistency 
of bees' wax ; it may be preserved for use in 
this state for any length of time. If chalk 
cannot conveniently be got, dry brick-dust 
may be substituted. After the broken or 
decayed limb has been sawed off, the whole 
of the saw-cut must be very carefully pared 
away, and the rough edges of the bark, in 
particular, must be made quite smooth ; the 
doing of this properly is of great consequence ; 
then lay on the above composition hot, about 
the thickness of half a dollar, over the wound- 
ed place, and over the edges of the surround- 
ing bark; it should be spread with a hot 
trowel. 

1880. New Grafting Wax. Melt 1 
pound resin over a slow fire, add 1 ounce beef 
tallow, and stir with a perfectly dry stick or 
piece of wire. WTien somewhat cooled, add 1 
table-spoonful spirits of turpentine, and lastly 
5 ounces of 95 per cent, alcohol in small quan- 
tities, stirring the mass constantly. Should 
the alcohol cause it to lump, warm again 
until it melts. Keep in a bottle. Lay it on 
in a very thin coat with a brush. In a room 
of moderate temperature, the wax should be 
of the consistence of molasses. Should it 
prove thicker, thin it down with alcohol. It 
is always ready for use, is never affected by 
heat or cold, and heals up wounds hermeti- 
cally. 

1881. Grafting "Wax. Take 4 ounces 
pitch, 4 ounces resin, 2 ounces hogs' lard, and 
2 ounces bees' wax; put them all together into 
a pipkin, and dissolve them over a slow fire, 
and it will form an excellent grafting wax. 
By spreading some of this mixture on paper 
it makes the grafting paper. The French 
make very good grafting wax by mixing to- 
gether equal quantities of bees' wax and resin, 
and adding as much tallow as will cause it to 
dissolve at a low temperature. For an appli- 
cation where limbs have been removed in 
pruning, nothing is better than coal tar. 

1882. GraffciQg Clay. Take strong ad- 
hesive loam or clay, and knead it till of the 
consistency of soft soap. Take also some 
horse droppings, and rub through a riddle of 
half-inch mesh. Mix the two ingredients 
with fresh cow-dung, all in equal parts, to 
a uniform consistency. "When grafting, the 



THE EXTERMINATION OF VERMIN. 



191 



operator f^lionld have at hand some finely- 
riddled ashes, hito which the hands should be 
dipped to prevent the clav from adhering, and 
enable him to give the whole a neat finish. 

1883. To Propagate Marsh. Plants. 
The best plan is by means of a stone trough 
C inches to a foot deep, and of an}'' convenient 
length and breadth, with a hole for a tap at 
one corner. This is to be treated as a flower- 
pot ; the bottom being covered with small 
stones, and the trough filled up with a com- 
post of peat and light loam. The surface is 
then covered with any description of light 
moss that can be got, and watered till the 
whole is saturated to the brim. 

1884. To Prepare Seeds for Expor- 
tation. Seeds intended for exportation 
should not be gathered until they have be- 
come perfectly ripe ; they should then be laid 
in a stove, or exposed in the sun to dr}^, as 
getting them perfectly dry is the principal 
point. They may be packed in bags, papers, 
or boxes. If they are kept dry, they will bear 
a voyage of many months, without injury to 
their vegetating properties. 

1885. To Prepare Nails for Wall- 
Trees. These should be of cast iron if they 
can be obtained. Before using, they should 
be heated red-hot, and then thrown into cold 
linseed oil. This gives them a varnish which 
I)reserves them from rusting, and prevents the 
mortar of the wall from sticking to them 
when they are drawn. 

1886. ' Method of Covering a Bank 
of Earth With Grass. To cover a steep 
bank quickly with grass the following method 
is recommended by a Grerman Horticultural 
Association: For each square rod to be planted, 
take k pound lawn grass seed, and mix it in- 
timately and thoroughly with about 6 solid 
feet of good dry garden earth and loam. This 
is placed in a tub, and to it liquid manure, 
diluted with about f of water, is added and 
well stirred in, so as to bring the whole to the 
consistency of mortar. The slope is to be 
cleaned off and made perfectly smooth, and 
then- well watered, after which the paste just 
mentioned is to be applied with a trowel, and 
made as even and thin as possible. Should 
it crack by exposure to the air, it is to be 
again watered and smoothed up day by day, 
until the grass makes its appearance, which 
will be in 1 or 2 weeks, and the whole declivity 
will soon be covered by a close carpet of green. 

1887. Substitute for Glass for Hot- 
Houses. Apply, with a common painter's 
brush, boiled oil, or Canadian balsam, diluted 
with oil of turpentine, to the surface of white 
muslin previously vStretched out and fastened 
in the position it is intended to occupy. 

1888. To Preserve Potatoes and Other 
Roots. These are preserved in different 
ways, according to the object in view. Tube- 
rous roots, as those of the dahlia, pgeonia, 
tuberose, etc., intended to be planted in the 
succeeding spring, are preserved through the 
Ai^inter in dry earth, in a temperature rather 
under than above what is natural to them. 
So may the bulbous roots of commerce, as 
hyacuiths, tulips, onions, etc.; but, for conve- 
nience, these are kept either loose, in cool dry 
shelves or lofts, or the finer sorts in papers, 
till the season of planting. Koots of all kinds 
may be preserved in an ice-house till the re- 



turn of the natural crop. After stuffing the 
interstices with straw, and covering the sm*- 
face of the ice with the same material, place 
on it boxes, casks, baskets, etc., and fill them 
with turnips, carrots, beet roots, and, in par- 
ticular, potatoes. By the cold of the place, 
vegetation is so much suspended that all these 
articles may be thus kept fresh and uninjured 
till they give place to another crop in its natural 
season. 

1889. To Dry Roots. They should be 
rubbed in water to get rid of the dirt and also 
some of the mucous substance that would 
otherwise render them mouldy ; the larger are 
then to be cut, split, or peeled, but in most 
aromatic roots, the odor residing in the bark, 
they must not be peeled ; they are then to be 
spread on sieves or hurdles, and dried in a 
heat of about 120° Fahr., either on the top of 
an oven, in a stove, or a steam closet, taking 
care to shake them occasionally, to change the 
surface exposed to the air. Thick and juicy 
roots, as rhubarb, briony, peony, water-lily, 
etc., are cut in slices, strung upon a thread, 
and hung in a heat of about 90° to 100°. 
Squills are scaled, threaded, and dried around 
the pipe of a stove, or in a hot closet. Rhu- 
barb should be washed, to separate that mucous 
principle which would otherwise render it 
tjlack and soft when powdered. Potatoes are 
cut in slices and dried. 

1890. To Transplant Large Shade 
Trees. In the autumn, before the frost 
comes on, dig a trench around the tree and 
cut the roots, but not too near the tree. Re- 
move the tree through the winter, when the 
ground is frozen. Raise it up with the frozen 
earth adhering to the roots. The whole mass 
is easily raised with levers on to a strong sled, 
and can then be drawn erect by means of 
oxen or horses. Trees from 20 to 30 feet high 
can be moved by this method, and they will 
grow in the spring. 

1 89 1 . To Drain Land in Level Places, 
sink a well down to the first porous stratum. 
The water from the upper soil will flow readily 
into the well, especially if drain pipes or tiles 
be laid in its direction. 



The Extermination of 
Vermin. The foUowlng compara- 
tively few receipts and directions for destroy- 
ing, trapping and driving away insects and 
vermin of all kinds, have been selected as the 
most efficacious, from a large amount of infor- 
mation on the subject. 

1893. To Catch Rats. Cover a common 
barrel with stiff, stout paper, tying the edge 
round the barrel ; place a board so that the 
rats may have easy access to the top ; sprinkle 
cheese parings or other feed for the rats on 
the paper for several days, until they begin to 
think that they have a right to their daily 
rations from this source; then place in the 
bottom of the barrel a piece of rock about 6 
or 7 inches high, filling with water until only 
enough of it projects above the water for one 
rat to lodge upon. Now replace the paper, 
first cutting a cross in the middle, and the first 
rat that comes on the barrel top goes through 
into the water, and climbs on the rock. The 



192 



THE EXTERMINATION OF VEBMIN. 



paper comes back to its original position, and 
tlie second rat follows the first. Then begins 
a fight for the possession of the dry place on 
the stone, the noise of which attracts the 
others, who share the same fate. 

1894. Rat Trap. Fill a barrel about 
half full of water. Make the cover I inch 
smaller all around than the inside of the top 
of the barrel. Drive a nail or wire on each 
side of the cover, exactly opposite each other, 
as a pivot, and fit in the barrel, so that a light 
weight wiU readily tip the cover. Put the 
bait"^ on top, in a firm way, and place an 
empty barrel or box near by. This is a simple, 
but excellent trap. 

1895. Bait to Catch Rats and Mice. 
If a drop of oil of rhodium be poured upon 
some bait in a common or wire spring trap, 
and the trap be set in an infested locality, in 
a short time the cage will be found occupied 
by vermin. Eats and mice possess a great 
liking for the oil, and will risk anything to 
obtain it. 

1896. To Catch. Muskrats. Take a 
steel trap with a single spring, set it IJ inches 
under water, hang part of a sweet apple over 
the foot plate, and chain the trap to a stake or 
rush. The reason why the trap should be set 
under water is that when the muskrat sees 
the apple he will jump for it ; when he comes 
down he gets his paws in the trap. 

1897. Rat Poison. Recent experiments 
have shown that squills is an excellent poison 
for rats. The powder should be mixed with 
some fatty substance, and spread upon slices 
of bread. The pulp of onions is also good. 
Eats are very fond of either. 

1898. To Drive Rats from a Building. 
Dissolve 2 ounces glue, 2 ounces tincture of 
assafoetida, and 2 ounces potash in water, and 
add ^ ounce phosphorus to the mixture. Then 
in a wire cage trap, baited with corn meal 
scented with oil of anise, catch two or three 
rats ; if they are very numerous, more will 
be necessary ; singe the hair partly off these 
in such a way as to hurt them as little as pos- 
sible, then give them a slight coating with 
the above mixture, heated warm; let them 
loose into their holes, and there wiU be no 
more trouble with the rats for months to 
come. This mixture wiU last 2 years. Or : 
Take chloride of lime, and scatter it dry all 
around, and into their holes, and wherever 
they haunt, and they will leave at once. 

1899. Phosphorus Paste for Ver- 
min. Introduce 1 drachm phosphorus into 
a Florence flask, and pour over it 1 ounce 
rectified spirit. Immerse the flask in hot 
water until the phosphorus is melted, then 
put a well-fitting cork into the mouth of 
the flask, and shake briskly until cold. The 
phosphorus is now reduced to a finely divided 
state. This, after pouring off the spirit, is to 
be mixed in a mortar with I5 ounces lard. 5 
ounces flour and 1^ ounces brown sugar, pre- 
viously mixed together, are now added, and 
the whole made into a paste with a little 
water. Cheese may be substituted for sugar 
when the paste is intended for rats or mice. 
There is said to be no danger whatever of 
spontaneous ignition, either during or after 
the preparation of this paste. 

1900. An Insect Killer and Destroyer 
of Noxious Animals. The bisulphide of 



carbon seems to be useful in certain cases, 
when it may be applied without inconvenience 
to the human species. In an atmosphere con- 
taining -^0 of its volume, it has, according to 
Oloez, a very rapid action on the animal or- 
ganism, more rapidly, apparently, upon ratSy 
rabbits, (fee, than upon birds and frogs. Cloez 
introduced If ounces bisulphide in a culvert, 
and found within 20 yards from the place some 
40 dead rats. 

1901. To Exterminate Cockroaches. 
Borax is one of the best of roach extermina- 
tors. There is something peculiar, either in 
the smell or touch of borax, which is certain 
death to them. They will flee in terror fro? m 
it, and never appear again where it has once 
been placed. It has also the great advantage 
of being perfectly harmless to human beings ; 
hence there is no danger from poisoning. The 
borax should be pulverized and sprinkled 
around the infested places. 

1902. To KiU Cockroaches and Cro- 
ton Bugs. Boil 1 ounce poke-root in 1 pint 
water until the strength is extracted; mix 
the decoction with molasses and spread it in 
plates in the kitchen or other apartments 
which are infested by these insects. Paris 
green sprinkled around the apartments will 
also exterminate them; bmt should be used 
with caution, as it is very poisonous. 

1903. To Destroy Bed-bugs. Eub 
the bedsteads in the joints with equal parts of 
spirits of turpentine and kerosene oil, and the 
cracks of the surbase in rooms where there 
are many. Filling up all the cracks with hard 
soap is an excellent remedy. March and 
April are the months when bedsteads should 
be examined to kill all the eggs. 

1904. To Destroy Bed-bugs in Paper- 
ed Rooms. Clean the paint of • the room 
thoroughly, and set in the centre of the room 
a dish containing 4 ounces of brimstone. 
Light it and close the room as tight as possi- 
ble, stopping the keyhole of the door with pa- 
per, to keep the fumes of the brimstone in the 
room. Let it remain for 3 or 4 hours, then 
open the windows and air thoroughly. The 
brimstone will be found to have also bleached 
the paint if it was a yellowish white. 

1905. Bed-bug Poison. Mix together 
2 ounces camphor, 4 ounces spirits of turpen- 
tine, 1 ounce corrosive sublimate, and 1 pint 
alcohol. 

1906. To Kill Bed-bugs. Benzine or 
gasoline will kill these pests as fast as they 
can be reached. By using a spring-bottom 
oiler, the fluid may be forced into cracks and 
crevices more thoroughly than by any other 
means. As this fluid is highly inflammable, 
contact with fire must be avoided. The room 
should be well aired and ventilated afterwards, 
until the gas passes away. {See No. 346.) 

1907. To Exterminate Bed-bugs. 
Wash the article infested with a weak solu- 
tion of chloride of zinc. This is an effectual 
banisher of these pests. 

1908. Benzine as an Insect Destroyer. 
A mixture of 10 parts benzine, 5 parts soap, 
and 85 parts water, has been very successful- 
ly used to destroy the parasites which infest 
dogs. It has also been used with good results 
in veterinary practice, as an application in 
certain diseases of the skin ; and thus diluted, 
is found to answer better than when used pure. 



PREPARED PAPER 



193 



1909. To Disperse Black Ants. A 

few leaves of greeu vrormwood, scattered 
among the haunts of these troublesome in- 
sects, is said to be effectual in dislodging them. 
{SeeNo. 1848.) 

1910. To Exterminate Red Ants. 
Grease a plate with lard, and set it where 
these insects abound. They prefer lard to any- 
thing else, and will forsake sugar for it. Place 
a few sticks around the plate for the ants to 
climb up on. Occasionally turn the plate bot- 
tom up over the fire, and the ants will fall in 
with the melting lard. Keset the plate, and 
in a short time you will catch them all. Pow- 
dered borax sprinkled around the infested 
places will exterminate both red and black 
ants. {See No. 1^01.) 

1911. To Kill Flies. Beat up the yolk 
of an Qg^ with a table-spoonful each of mo- 
lasses and black pepper finely ground ; set it 
about in shallow plates and the flies will be 
rapidly killed. A sweetened infusion of 
quassia will answer the same purpose. Dis- 
solve 1 drachm extract of quassia in a gill of 
water, mix with ^ gill molasses and pour the 
mixture on a flat dish where the flies have 
access. The quassia acts on them like a nar- 
cotic. 

1912. Fly Poison. BoU ^ ounce small 
chips of quassia in 1 pint water ; add 4 ounces 
molasses. Ffies drink this with avidity, and 
are soon destroved by it. 

1913. To Banish Fleas. The oil of 
pennyroyal will certainly drive them off; but 
a cheaper method, where the herb flourishes, 
is to dip dogs and cats into a decoction of it 
once a week. Mow the herb and scatter it 
in the beds of the pigs once a month. Where 
the herb cannot be got, the oil may be pro- 
cured. In this case, saturate strings with it 
and tie them around the necks of dogs and 
cats, pour a little on the back and about the 
ears of hogs, which you can do while they are 
feeding, without touching them. By repeat- 
ing these applications every 12 or 15 days, the 
fleas will leave the animals. Strings saturated 
with the oil of pennyroyal, and tied around 
the neck and tail of horses, will drive off lice ; 
the strings should be saturated once a day. 

1914. To Exterminate Fleas. Sprinkle 
chamomile flowers in the beds, and the fleas 
will leave. 

1915. An Excellent Flea Trap. If 
you should happen to have the consciousness 
of having a flea about your person, you have 
but to introduce, before getting iuto bed, a 
piece of new flannel between the sheets, and 
you may depend on finding yourself forsaken 
for the flannel. 

1916. To Prevent the Attacks of 
Gnats. The best preventive against gnats, 
as well as the best cure for their stings, is 
camphor. 

1917. To Clear a Room of Mosqui- 
toes. Take of gum camphor a piece about ^ 
the size of an q^^, and evaporate it by placing 
it in a tin vessel, and holding it over a lamp 
or candle, taking care that it does not ignite. 
The smoke will soon fill the room, and expel 
the mosquitoes. 

1918. To Keep Away Mosquitoes. 
Dip a piece of sponge or flannel in camphor- 
ated spirits, and make it fast to the top 
of the bedstead. A decoction of pennyroyal, 



or some of the bruised leaves, rubbed on the 
exposed parts, will effectually keep off those 
troublesome insects. 

1919. To Destroy Vermin in Child- 
ren's Heads. Take 1 ounce each viuegar 
and stavesacre, i ounce each honey and sul- 
phm*, and 2 ounces sweet oil. Make into a 
liniment, and rub the head with it. Insects 
are immediately suffocated by benzine. Those 
sometimes found in the heads of human be- 
ings are destroyed by it at once, without any 
inconvenient result being perceived. It has 
been employed very successfully in banish- 
ing the insects which infest domestic animals, 
etc. {See No. 1906.) The use of larkspur 
seed for the destruction of the insects infest- 
ing the human head is a time-honored appli- 
cation among country people — beds of the 
plant being cultivated frequently for the ex- 
press purpose of furnishing material for the 
decoction. The efficiency of this remedy 
seems to depend on the presence of the alka- 
loid caUed delphine, which appears to be a 
poison especially fatal to insects. 

1920. To Destroy Body Vermin. 
Applv stavesacre ointment or red precipitate. 

1921. To Clean Canary Birds. These 
pretty things are often covered with lice, and 
may be effectually relieved of them by placing 
a clean white cloth over their cage at night. 
In the morning it will be covered with small 
red spots, so smaU as hardly to be seen^ 
except by the aid of a glass ; these are the- 
lice, a source of great annoyance to the birds., 

1922. Lice on Poultry. If infested, 
with hce, damp the skin under the feathers- 
with water, then sprinkle a little sulphur on^ 
the skin. If the bird be covered with insects 
or parasites, they will all disappear in the 
com-se of 12 hours. 

1923. To Drive Fhes from Stables. 
Scatter chloride of lime on a board in a stable, 
to remove all kinds of flies, but more especial- 
ly biting flies. Sprinkling beds of vegetables 
with even a weak solution, effectually pre- 
serves them from caterpillars, slugs, cfec. A 
paste of 1 part powdered chloride of lime and 
\ part of some fatty matter placed in a narrow 
band round the trunk of the tree, prevents in- 
sects from creeping up it. Even rats, mice^ 
cockroaches, and crickets flee from it. 

1924. To Keep Flies from Horses. 
Procure a bunch of smartweed, and bruise it 
to cause the juice to exude. Eub the animal 
thoroughly with the bunch of bruised weed, 
especially on the legs, neck, and ears. N^either 
flies or other insects will trouble him for 24 
hours. The process should be repeated every 
day. A very convenient way of using it, is 
to make a strong infusion by boiling the weed 
a few nunutes in water. When cold it can be 
conveniently applied with a sponge or brush. 
Smartweed is found growing in every section 
of the country, usually on wet groimd near 
highways. 

Prepared Paper. Paper fre- 
quently requires some special prepara- 
tion to fit it for many purposes for which 
it would be useless in its origiual state. The 
following methods of preparing paper will be 
found useful, and in some cases indispensable, 
for reference. 



194r 



PREPARED PAPER. 



1926. To Make Transfer Paper. To 

prepare transfer paper, take some thin post 
or tissue paper, rub the surface well -with. 
black lead, yermilion, red chalk, or any color- 
ing matter; wipe this preparation well oif 
with a piece of clean rag, and it will be ready 
for use. 

1927. To Make Tracing Paper with. 
Petroleum. Saturate ordinary writing paper 
with petroleum by means of a brush, then 
wipe it off until it is dry. This makes a 
tracing paper equal to the manufactured 
article, for all ordinary purposes. It was 
discovered by Mr. Hansel, an architect at 
ifeustadt. 

1928. To Make Tracing Paper with. 
Bensdne. If paper be damped with pure 
and fresh distilled benzine, it at once assumes 
a transparency, and permits of the tracing be- 
ing made, and of ink or water colors being 
iised on its surface without any running. 
The paper resumes its opacity as the benzine 
evaporates, and if the drawing is not then 
completed, the requisite portion of the paper 
must be again damped with benzine. This 
new discovery of the properties of benzine 
will prove of great service to many branches 
of the art profession, in allowing the use of 
stiff paper where formerly only a slight tissue 
could be used. 

1929. To Make Transparent or Tra- 
cing Paper. Dissolve a piece of white bees' 
wax, about the size of a walnut, in -J pint 
spirits of tui-pentine ; then having procui-ed 
some very fine white, woven tissue paper, lay 
it on a clean board, and, with a soft brush 
dipped in this liquid, go over one side, and 
then turn it over and apply it to the other ; 
hang it up in a place free from dust to dry. 
It will be ready for use in a few days. Some 
add a small quantity of resin, or use resin in- 
stead of wax. 

1930. To Make Tracing Paper. Lay 
open a quire of paper, of large size, and apply 
with a clean sash tool a coat of varnish, made 
of equal parts of Canada balsam and oil of 
turpentine, to the upper surface of the first 
sheet, then hang it on a line, and repeat the 
operation on fresh sheets until the proper 
quantity is finished. If not sufficiently trans- 
parent, a second coat of varnish may be ap- 
plied as soon as the first has become quite 
dry. 

1931. Iridescent Paper. Boil in wa- 
ter, 8 parts nut-galls, 5 parts sulphate of iron, 
4 parts each sal ammoniac and sulphate of in- 
digo, and -^ part gum-arabic. "Wash the paper 
in this decoction, and then expose it to am- 
monia. 

1932. To Powder Glass. Heat the 
glass red-hot, throw it into cold water ; dry, 
and pulverize it, coarse or fine as required, in 
an iron mortar. It is used to filter acids ; is 
glued upon paper or muslin for polishing ; also 
to rub down corns upon the feet, after they 
have weU. soaked and dried. 

1 933. To Make Glass Paper or Cloth. 
Powder the glass (that with a greenish hue 
is the best), and sift it through a very fine 
wire sieve, to separate the finest portion of 
the powder ; this is for the smoothest degree 
of glass paper; sift the remainder successively 
through sieves gradually increasing in coarse- 
ness, to suit the different degrees of the glass 



paper required; keep the result of each sifting 
separate. Then smooth on both sides, with 
pumice stone, any good tough paper, and 
tack it on a board ; a tolerably fine quality 
of mushn is far preferable to paper. If large 
sheets are used it is better to glue the edges 
on a frame (similar to a small quilting frame), 
and when dry, damp the paper or muslin and 
stretch it, in the same manner as the muslin 
is strained for sized roller bUnds. Give the 
surface a coating of strong glue size, and im- 
mediately dust the glass of the required fine- 
ness equally and thoroughly all over, using 
the same sieve that was used to separate it 
fi'om the rest of the powdered glass. "When 
dry, throw off the surplus glass for future use. 

1934. To Make Stone Paper. As, ia 
cleaning wood-work, particularly pine and 
other soft woods, one process is sometimes 
found to answer better than another, we may 
describe the manner of manufacturing a stone 
paper, which, in some cases, will be prefeiTed 
to sand paper, as it produces a good face, and 
is less liable to scratch the work. Having 
prepared the paper as described in the last re- 
ceipt, take a quantity of powdered pumice 
stone, and sift it over the paper through a 
sieve of moderate fineness. "When the sur- 
face has hardened, repeat the process till a 
tolerably thick coat has been formed upon the 
paper, which, when dry, will be fit for use. 

1935. To Make Emery Paper or Cloth. 
This is prepared in precisely the same man- 
ner as glass paper {see No. 1933)^ using 
emery instead of glass. 

1936. Phenyl Paper. This article 
would be useful for packing meat and other 
substances liable to decay. {See No. 1614.) 
It can be prepared by fusing 5 parts stearic 
acid at a gentle heat, mixing well with 2 
parts carbolic acid and 5 parts melted paraf- 
fine, and stiiTing until the whole has become 
soHd, and applying it to paper in the same 
manner as waxed paper is made. {See No. 
1938.) 

1937. Solvent for Silk, Paper, &c. 
The ammonio-oxide of copper is a solvent for 
silk, paper, and the cellular tissue of plants. 
If its action be limited to a few moments it 
converts the surfaces into a gelatinous mass. 

1938. To Make Waxed Paper. Take 
cartridge or other paper, place it on a hot 
non and rub it with bees' wax, or make a so- 
lution of the wax in turpentine, and apply it 
with a brush. It is generally prepared on a 
large scale by taking a qmre of paper and 
opening it flat upon a taljle, and then going 
over it quickly with a very hot smoothing-iron, 
against which is held a piece of wax, which, 
melting, runs down upon the paper and is 
absorbed by it. A little practice will soon 
determine the amount of wax that should be 
melted off from time to time. "When the 
upper sheet is saturated it is taken off, and 
the one below is treated in a similar manner. 
Any excess of wax applied in the first instance 
readily penetrates through to the lower layers. 
Useful for making water or air-proof pipes, 
for chemical experiments, also for tying up 
the necks of bottles, covering preserve jars, 
and for enveloping tobacco and other substan- 
ces that require to be kept from the air, re- 
placing generally tin-foil and similar sub- 
stances. 



PBEFAEED PAPER. 



195 



1939. To Make Oiled Paper. Brush 
sheets of paper over with boiled oil, iu which 
dissolve a little shellac carefully over a slow 
fire, and suspend them on a line until dry. 
"Waterproof. Employed to tie over pots and 
jars, and to wi-ap up paste blacking, &c. 

1940. Oiled Paper as a Substitute for 
Oiled Silk. Boiled linseed oil is reboiled 
with litharge, acetate of lead, sulphate of 
zinc, and burnt umber, an ounce of each to a 
gallon. The sheet of paper being laid on a 
square board, it is well covered with this 
mixture. The first sheet is covered on both 
sides ; the second, placed on this, receives one 
coating ; and so on to 20 or 50. Separate and 
hang up to dry. 

1941. To Make Paper Fire and Wa- 
terproof. Take 26 ounces alum, and 4 
ounces white soap, and dissolve them in a 
quart of water; into another vessel dissolve 
2 ounces gum-arabic and 1 ounce glue, in the 
same quantity of water as the former, and 
add the two solutions together, which is now 
to be kept warm, and the paper intended to 
be made waterproof dipped into it, passed 
between rollers, and dried ; or, without the use 
of rollers, the paper may be suspended until 
it has perfectly dripped, and then dried. The 
alum, soap, glue, and gum, form a kind of 
artificial leather, which protects the surface 
of the paper from the action of water, and 
also renders it somewhat fireproof. A second 
immersion makes it still better. 

1942. To Make Fireproof Paper. 
Take a solution of alum and dip the paper 
into it, then throw it over a line to dry. This 
is suitable to all sorts of paper, whether plain 
or colored, as well as textile fabrics. Try a 
sUp of the paper in the flame of a candle, and 
if not sufficiently prepared, dip and try it a 
second time. 

1943. To Make Fireproof Paper. 
Newspapers may be rendered fireproof by 
dipping into a solution of soluble glass of 25° 
Baume ; next neutralizing the alkali by dilu- 
ted muriatic acid of 10° Baume whUe hot, 
and drying by the atmosphere. Fire cannot 
then destroy the texture of the paper. 

1944. To Make Paper "Waterproof. 
Melt in 10 pints hot water, 30 ounces glue, 
gelatine or size, and 3 ounces gum-arabic. In 
another 30 pints hot water, melt 20 ounces 
soap and 4 pounds alum; mix both liquids 
together in one pot. This constitutes compo- 
sition ISo. 1. In another pot heat i gallon 
benzole and 1 gallon paraffiue, and melt in it 
24 ounces resin ; let it boil until it attains a 
moderate degree of consistency. To these 
materials, resin, oil, and copal or mastic var- 
nish may, in some cases, be added. This is 
composition Xo. 2. First dip the article to be 
waterproof into the composition ^STo. 1 iu a ! 
heated state, and then dry it. Xext apply ! 
composition Xo. 2, ia a cooled state, with a j 
brush, or in any other convenient manner. \ 

1945. Papier-MacM. A plastic mate- 1 
rial, formed of cuttings of white or brown 1 
paper, boiled in water, beaten to a paste in a | 
mortar, and then mixed with a solution of 
gum-arabic in size, to give tenacity. It is 
variously manufactured by being pressed into 
«ded moulds, afterwards dried, covered with 
a mixture of size and lamp-black, or other- 
wise ornamented, and varnished. 



1946. To Detect the Presence of 
Plaster in Paper. Calcine the paper in a 
close vessel, and dilute the residue with vine- 
gar, in a silver spoon; if sulphuretted hydro- 
gen is disengaged, which blackens the spoon, 
the presence of a sulphate (plaster) wiU be 
shown. This adulteration has lately become 
very common among the paper-makers, with 
the view of increasing the weight. 

1947. To Detect Woody; Fibre in 
Paper. The paper is touched with ordinary 
strong nitric acid. If wood fibre is present 
the paper will be colored brown, especially on 
warming. 

1948. Magic Copying Paper. To 
make black paper, take lamp-black mixed 
with cold lard. Eed paper — Venetian red 
mixed with lard. Blue paper — Prussian blue 
mixed with lard. G-reen paper — chrome green 
mixed with lard. The above ingredients to 
be mixed to the consistency of thick paste, 
and applied to the paper with a rag. Then 
take a flannel rag, and rub until all the color 
ceases coming off. These sheets, alternated 
with writing paper and written on with a 
solid pen, produce 2 or 3 copies of a letter at 
once. 

1949. Manifold Copying Process. 
This is a method patented by Mr. Underwood, 
of London, for taking copies of writing by 
pressure ; by this means as many as twenty 
copies or more of a letter or other writing can 
be obtained. 

The copying paper is prepared by being 
wetted with a solution of 200 grains of the 
yellow or neutral chromate of potash in 1 gal- 
lon of distilled water. This paper can be 
used immediately, or may be dried, and 
damped with water when required for use. 
The copying ink to be used for the original 
writing must be made by dissolving (in a 
water-bath) about 6 pounds pure extract of 
logwood in 1 gallon distilled water. 

Damp 6 sheets of the prepared paper, and 
remove all superfluous moistm*e with good 
blotting paper, place the original writing on 
the upper sheet, and put in the copying-press 
for about half a minute; then remove the 
original and substitute in its place 6 more 
damp sheets of the paper, and press for a 
quarter of an hour. Then take the original 
again and lay it on the top of 5 more damped 
sheets of the paper, and press for about two 
minutes ; finally remove the original, and iu its 
place put 3 more sheets of the paper, then 
press for a quarter of an hour. This process 
will give twenty copies. If more than twenty 
copies are to be made, the writing of the 
original should, before the ink is quite dry, be 
dusted over with a powder composed of 5 
parts extract of logwood, 1 part powdered 
gum-arabic, and 1 part powdered gum-traga- 
canth. 

1950. Process for Copying Very Old 
Writings. ;N'iepec St. Victor gives a new 
process for copying very old writings. Ordi- 
nary copying paper is used, but is wetted with 
a thin solution of glucose or honey instead 
of water. On coming out of the press the 
paper is exposed to strong ammonia, which 
brings out very clearly lines otherwise almost 
illegible. 

1951. To Prepare Paper for Varnish- 
ing. To prevent the absorption of varnish. 



196 



PREPARED PAPER. 



and injury to any color or design on the pa- 
per, it is necessary to first give it 2 or 3 coats 
of size. The best size for white or delicate 
colors is made by dissolving a little isinglass 
in boiling water, or by boiling some clean 
parchment cuttings until they form a clear so- 
lution; then strain through a piece of clean 
muslin. It may be applied with a clean soft 
paint-brush, the first coat, especially, very 
lightly. The best brush for this purpose is 
the kind used by varnishers for giving the 
finishing j^o^o coats of varnish, wide, flat and 
soft ; or, where there is much danger of injur- 
ing a design, and the paper article will allow 
of it, it is a good plan for the first coat, to 
pour the solution into a wide, fiat dish, and 
pass the paper through it once, and back 
again, and then hang it up to dry. For less 
delicate purposes, a little light-colored glue, 
soaked over night in enough water to cover it, 
and then dissolved by heat, adding hot water 
enough to dilute it sufficiently, will make an 
excellent sizing. 

1952. To Size Paper. The paper must 
be passed or steeped in a mixture of glue and 
alum water. For transparent or semi-trans- 
parent paper, a mixture of starch, or dextrine 
and alum. 

1953. Albuminous Size. Beat up the 
white of an egg with twice its bulk of cold 
water, until well incorporated. Used as a 
varnish for leather binding and kid gloves; 
also to size drawing paper. 

1954. Pounce. Powdered gum sanda- 
rac generally passes under this name ; it is 
used to prepare parchment for writing on, and 
to prevent ink from spreading on paper after 
erasure. Powdered cuttle-fish bone is occa- 
sionally used in the same way. Packers rub 
the surface of porous and greasy wood with a 
pounce consisting of whiting or powdered 
resin, to make it bear the ink. The colored 
powders (usually ultramarine) used by pat- 
tern drawers, for sprinkling over pricked pa- 
pers, are also called pounce. 

1955. Lithographic Paper. In order 
to prevent the ink tracings or design from ad- 
hering to and sinking into the paper, which 
would render a perfect transfer to the stone 
impossible, the surface of the paper requh-es 
proper preparation. 

1956. To Prepare Lithographic Pa- 
per. Lay on the paper 3 successive coats of 
sheep-foot jelly, 1 layer of cold white starch, 
and 1 layer of gamboge. The first layer is 
applied with a sponge dipped in a hot solu- 
tion of the jelly, thinly, but very evenly, over 
the whole surface ; the next 2 coats are laid 
on in succession, each previous coat being first 
aUowed to dry. The layer of starch, and then 
the coat of gamboge, are each applied with a 
sponge in the same way as the jelly. When 
the paper is dry it must be smoothed by pass- 
ing it through the lithographic press; the 
smoother it becomes, the better. The trans- 
fer of traces from the gamboge surface o: 
paper thus prepared is perfect. 

The gamboge must be dissolved the same 
day it is used, as it becomes oily by standing. 
The starch should be a day old, and the skin 
removed from its surface. 

1957. Lithographic Paper. Take 
rather strong, unsized paper, and cover it 
with a varnish composed of 120 parts starch, 



40 parts gum-arabic and 20 parts alum. Make 
a moderate paste of the starch by boiling, 
dissolve the gum and alum separately, and 
then mix all together. "When well mixed, 
apply hot with a fiat, smooth brush, to the 
leaves of paper. Then dry and smooth by 
passing under the scraper of the lithographic 
press. 

1958. Bernard and Delarne's Litho- 
graphic Crayons. Melt 4 parts pure white 
wax over a slow fire; stir in by degrees 2 
parts gum lac, broken into small pieces; next 
mix in 2 parts dried soap (made of tallow and 
soda), reduced to fine shavings ; then stir in 
1 part oil copal varnish into which 1 part 
lampblack has been previously ground. Con- 
tinue to heat and stir until the paste has ac- 
quired a proper consistence, which can be 
ascertained by forming a crayon with it in a 
mould, and allowing it to become cold. The 
mould should be first wiped with a greased 
rag. 

Lasteyrie adopts a somewhat different for- 
mula for his crayons : Dried white tallow 
soap, 6 parts; white wax, 6 parts; lampblack, 
1 part. The soap and tallow are to be put 
into a small goblet and covered up. When 
the whole is thoroughly fused by heat, and 
no clots remain, the black is gradually sprin- 
kled in with careful stining. 

1959. Rouget's Method of Preserv- 
ing Pencil Drawings. This invention con- 
sists in fixing drawings, tracings, or sketches, 
by directly projecting on these latter any suit- 
able adhesive liquid reduced to a fine spray, 
or in what is commonly called the atomized or 
pulverized state, by causing the liquid to pass 
rapidly under pressure through one or more 
capillary tubes or openings. By this method 
the defects of the transudation process are 
entirely done away with, besides which the 
operation is executed in less time, and may 
be performed at once by the artist without 
the slightest difficulty. For the fixing liquid, 
any colorless, or nearly colorless hquid, which 
aUows of being atomized, and which, after 
becoming dry, causes the particles of the 
charcoal, or other drawing materials made use 
of, to adhere sufficiently firmly to the paper 
or other drawing surface, may serve for the 
purpose. Thus, for instance, a liquid which 
has given the most satisfactory results is ob- 
tained by adding to a solution of 3 ounces 
white sugar candy and 2 ounces white shellac, 
in about 2 pints spirits of wine, a decoction 
of about 1 ounce fucus crispus (Irish moss) 
in 1 pint distilled water. 

1960. To Fix Pencil or Chalk Draw- 
ings. Lay the drawing on its face, stretch it 
tightly on a board with drawing pins, and 
give the back 2 or 3 coats of a solution of 5 
parts isinglass, or gum-arabic, in 12 parts 
water, using a varnisher's fiow brush, and 
allowing each coat to dry before laying on the 
next. "WTien dry, turn the drawing over, face 
upwards, and give it 1 or 2 coats in the same 
nianner. This will usually be sufficient to 
fix the drawing, but the addition of 1 or 2 
coats of a solution of 4 parts Canada balsam, 
in 5 parts turpentine, will afford still further 
protection. 

1 961 . To Fix Pencil or Crayon Draw- 
ings. A convenient method of fixing pencil 
or crayon drawings consists in moistening the 



PBEPAEED PAPER. 



197 



back of the sheet ^rith a solution of bleached 
shellac in alcohol, care being taken not to 
have the solution either too concentrated or 
too thin, but such as will flow readily on the 
paper, making it transparent when moist, and 
leaving no spots behind on evaporation. In 
this way the drawings will become perma- 
nently fixed, and may afterward be painted in 
water- colors so as to produce a very excellent 
eflfect. 

1962. To Fix Pencil Drawings. A 
simple method, and sufiicient for general pur- 
poses, is to put into a large flat dish, a mixtm*e 
of equal parts milk and water. The back of 
the drawing should be floated over the surface 
of the milk and water once or tvrice, according 
to the thickness of the paper, suflBcient to 
wet it through, but not enough to allow any 
of the liquid to run on the surface of the 
drawing. Pin it on a line to dry. Some pre- 
fer using pure milk. 

1963. To Take Creases out of Draw- 
ing Paper or Engravings. Lay the paper 
or engraving, face downwards, on a sheet 
of smooth, unsized white paper; cover it 
with another sheet of the same, very slight- 
ly damped, and iron with a moderately warm 
flat iron. 

1964. To Make Parchment Trans- 
parent. Soak a thin skin of parchment in a 
strong lye of wood ashes, often wringing it 
out till you find it becomes transparent; then 
strain it on a frame, and let it dry. This will 
be much improved if, after it is diy, it receives 
a coat, on both sides, of clear mastic varnish, 
diluted with spirits of tm-pentine. 

1965. To Make Artificial Parchment. 
De la Eue's patent. Strong unsized paper is 
immersed for a few seconds in oil of vitriol, 
diluted with half its volume of water. It is 
then washed in pure water or weak ammonia 
water. It strongly resembles animal parch- 
ment, and is used for the same purposes. 
The acid solution must be exactly of the 
strength indicated, and not warmer than the 
surrounding atmosj)here. 

1966. To Paste Parchment Paper. 
Thick, smooth paper does not generally hold 
long when pasted together or on wood. This 
difficulty is easily overcome. If the surface 
of that part of the paper which is to be joined 
be first moistened with alcohol or brandy, and 
the glue or paste then be applied, the union 
will be perfect. A piece of very thin paper 
inserted be'^ween the surfaces of the parch- 
ment paper frill also make a firm joint. Glue 
or paste should be used, as gum-arabic will not 
answer. 

1 967. New Method of Making Parch- 
ment Paper. An improved method of pre- 
paring this substance, consists in using the 
commercial oil of vitriol in an undiluted state. 
The paper is first passed through a solution of 
alum, and thoroughly dried, previous to its 
immersion, thus preventing any undue action 
of the corrosive principle of the vitriol. After 
the application of the acid, the paper is passed 
mto a vat of water, and then through an alka- 
line bath, to be again washed. TTritten and 
printed paper may undergo this improved pro- 
cess without materially a"fi"ecting the clearness 
and distinctness of the letters, and the paper 
retains all its qualities, even after being wetted 
several times in succession, while paper pre- 



pared in the usual manner loses, to a great 
extent, its pliancy, and becomes hard and 
stiff. 

1968. Papyrine. Dip white unsized 
paper for | a minute in strong sulphuric acid, 
and afterwards in water containing a little 
ammonia. ^WTien dried it has the toughness 
and appearance of parchment. 

1969. To Color Parchment. The only 
color given to parchment is green. Boil 8 
parts cream of tartar and 30 parts crystallized 
verdigris, in 500 parts water ; when this solu- 
tion is cold, pour into it 4 parts nitric acid. 
Moisten the parchment with a brush, and then 
apply the above liquid evenly over its surface. 
The necessary surface finish is given with 
white of eggs, or mucilage of gum-arabic. 

1970. Composition for Drawing 
Crayons. Take 6 parts shellac, 4 parts 
spirit of wine. 2 parts turpentine, 12 parts of 
coloring powder, such as Prussian blue, orpi- 
ment, white lead, vermilion, (fee, and 12 parts 
clay. The clay must be thoroughly washed, 
passed through a hair sieve and dried ; it is 
then well incorporated by trituration with the 
sheUac (previously dissolved in the spirits of 
wine), the turpentine and the coloring pig- 
ment. The doughy mass is pressed in proper 
moulds so as to acquire the desired shape, and 
then dried by stove heat. 

1971. Charcoal Crayons. Saw the 
finest-grained, softest, and blackest pieces of 
charcoal, into slips of the size required, put 
them into a pipkin of melted wax, and allow 
them to macerate over a slow fire for half an 
hour, then take them out and lay them on 
blotting-paper to dry. The above process 
may also be employed for red and black chalk. 
Drawings made with these crayons are very 
permanent, and if warmed slightly on the 
wrong side, the lines will adhere and become 
as durable as ink. These crayons may also 
be made by simply shaping the charcoal with 
a knife. WiUow charcoal should be used for 
this pui-pose. 

1972. To Clean Engravings. Secure 
the engraving with drawing pins on a smooth 
board, and cover it thinly with common salt, 
finely powdered ; pour and squeeze lemon 
juice upon this salt, so as to dissolve a con- 
siderable portion of it. I^ow elevate one end 
of the board, that it may form an angle of 
about 45° with the horizon. Pour lastly on 
the engi-aving boiling water from a tea-kettle, 
until the salt and lemon juice be all washed 
off; the engraving will then appear perfectly 
clean, and free from stains. It must be dried, 
gradually, on the same board, or on some 
smooth surface. {See Xos. 411, ^-c.) 

1973. To Clean Printed Paper and 
Picture Prints. Septimus Piesse gives the 
following receipt for that purpose : Fasten 
the paper to "a board with button drawing 
pins, then wash it with water in which is 
dissolved an ounce of carbonate of ammonia 
to every pint of water. This do with care, 
employing a camel's-hair brush for the pur- 

' pose. Then rinse the paper well with plenty 
I of fresh water. When dry, repeat the same 
process for the reverse side of the paper. 
Xow wet the paper with water made soui 
with white vinegar. Finally wet the paper 
with water containing a little bleaching pow- 
der, and again rinse with clean water; then 



198 



irOET, ALABASTER, ETC. 



dry it by exposure to air and sunshine. It 
will become white, excepting where printed. 
To stiffen the print give it a coat of parchment 
size. Most valuable prints have been thus 
restored. 

1974. To Transfer Engravings to 
Paper. Place the engraving a few seconds 
over the vapor of iodine. Dip a slip of white 
paper in a weak solution of starch, and, when 
dry, in a weak solution of oil of vitriol. When 
again dry, lay a slip upon the engraving, and 
place both for a few minutes under a press. 
The engraving will be reproduced in all its 
delicacy and finish. 

1975. To Print Engravings on Plas- 
ter. Cover the engraved plate with ink, and 
polish its surface in the usual way ; then put 
a wall of paper round it, and, when com- 
pleted, pour in some finely-powdered plaster 
of Paris mixed in water; jerk the plate re- 
peatedly, to allow the air bubbles to fly up- 
wards, and let it stand 1 hour ; then take the 
cast off the plate, and a very perfect impres- 
sion will be the result. 

1976. Hydrographic Paper. This is 
a name given to paper so prepared, that, when 
written upon with water, or some other color- 
less fluid, instead of ink, the characters will 
become visible. 

1977. To Write Black Characters 
with Water. Thoroughly dry and reduce 
to a very fine powder a mixture of 4 parts 
nut-galls, and 1 part calcined sulphate of non ; 
rub it over the surface of the paper, then 
forcing it into the pores by powerful pressure ; 
brush off the loose portion, and a pen dipped 
in water will write black. 

1978. To Write Blue Characters 
with Water. Prepare the paper with a 
mixture of sesquisulphate of iron and ferrocy- 
anide of potassium, by the same method as 
the last receipt. Write with water as before, 
and the characters will appear blue. 

1979. -To Produce Brown Writing 
with Water. Instead of the sulphate of 
iron in the last receipt, use sulphate of cop- 
per ; and characters written with water will 
be reddish-brown. 

1980. To Write Blue with a Colorless 
Fluid. Wet the paper with a solution of 
ferrocyanide of potassium, and dry it again 
write on it with a pen dipped in a solution of 
sesquisulphate of iron, and the writing will 
be blue. 



Ivory, Alabaster, &c. The 
folllowing receipts relate to the manipu- 
lation of ivory, bone, alabaster, meerschaum, 
horn, tortoise-shell, pearl, and marble. 

1982. To Color or Dye Ivory or Bone. 
"With regard to dyeing ivory, it may in gen- 
eral be observed, that the colors penetrate 
better before the surface is polished than after- 
wards. Should any dark spots appear, they 
may be cleared up by rubbing them with 
chalk ; after which the ivory should be dyed 
once more, to produce a perfect uniformity of 
shade. On taking it out of the boiling hot 
dye bath, it should be plunged immediately 
into cold water, to prevent the chance of fis- 
sures being caused by the heat. Ivory may 
be dyed by any of the ordinary methods em- 



ployed for woolens, after being freed from dirt 
and grease ; but more quickly as follows : 

1983. To Dye Ivory Black. The 
ivory, being well washed in an alkaline lye, is 
steeped in a iceak neutral solution of nitrate 
of silver, and then exposed to the light, or 
dried and dipped into a loeak solution of hy- 
drosulphuret of ammonia. 

1984. To Dye Ivory Deep Black. A 
still finer and deeper black may be obtained 
by boiling the ivory for some time in a strain- 
ed decoction of logwood, and then steeping it 
in a solution of red sulphate, or red acetate of 
iron. 

1985. To Dye Ivory Red. Make an 
infusion of cochineal in water of ammonia, 
then immerse the pieces therein, having pre- 
viously soaked them for a few minutes in wa- 
ter very slightly acidulated with aquafortis. 

1986. Fine Red Dye for Ivory. A 
beautiful red color may be imparted to ivory 
thus : Take 4 parts, by weight, picric acid, 
and dissolve in 250 parts boiling water; add, 
after cooling, 8 parts liquid ammonia. Dis- 
solve also 2 parts crystallized fuchsine (ma- 
genta) in 45 parts alcohol, dilute with 375 
parts hot water, and next add 50 parts ammo- 
nia. As soon as the red color of the magenta 
solution has disappeared, the two solutions 
are mixed together. Ivory and bone should 
be placed in very weak nitric or hydrochloric 
acids before being immersed in the ammonia- 
cal liquid ; wood cannot be dyed by this li- 
quid unless it has been previously painted 
over with paste made from flour. When to 
the ammoniacal liquid some gelatine solution 
be added, it may serve as a red ink which 
does not attack steel pens. By varying the 
proportions of the magenta and picric acid, 
the tints obtained may be varied from a bluish 
red to a bright orange-red. The colors do not 
appear until the ammonia is evaporated. 

1987. To Dye Ivory Blue. Steep it in 
a weak solution of sulphate of indigo which 
has been nearly neutralized with salt of tartar; 
or in a solution of Prussian blue. A still bet- 
ter plan is to steep in the dyer's green indigo 
vat ; or, insert the ivory for 15 to 20 minutes 
in diluted muriatic acicl (i ounce of acid for 1 
pound of water, having the taste of a good 
vinegar), and from this acidulated water trans- 
fer the ivory into a more or less concentrated 
solution of indigo-carmine (soluble indigo), 
and keep it in that soluticm until the ivory 
has assumed a uniform blue color ; then dry 
and polish. 

1988. To Dye Ivory Purple. Steep 
in a weak neutral solution of terchloride of 
gold, and then expose it to the light. Or, 
soak the ivory in a solution of sal ammoniac 
into 4 times its weight of nitrous acid. 

1989. To Dye Ivory Green. Dissolve 
verdigris in vinegar, and steep the pieces 
therein for a short time, observing to use a 
glass or stoneware vessel ; or in a solution of 
verdigris, 2 parts, and sal ammoniac, 1 part, in 
soft water ; or, dye the ivory blue l3y the 
third receipt for that purpose, and then insert 
in a solution of picric acid, as prescribed for 
the dark lemon color. (See No. 1991.) 

1990. To Dye Ivory Yellow. Steep 
the ivory in a bath of neutral chromate of 
potash, and afterwards in a boiling solution of 
acetate of lead. 



IVOEY, ALABASTEB, ETC, 



199 



Or : Steep the pieces for 24 hours in a solu- 
tion of sugar of lead, then take them out, and 
when dry, immerse them in a solution of chro- 
mate of potassa. 

Or : Dissolve as much of the best orpimeut 
in water of ammonia or hartshorn as it will 
take up, then steep the pieces therein for some 
hours ; lastly, take them out and dry them, 
when they will turn yellow. 

1991. To Dye Ivory Dark Lemon. 
Dissolve i ounce picric acid in -^ ounce boiling 
water. Dilute ^ ounce strong sulphuric acid 
with J ounce hot water, by pouring the acid 
gradually into the water. Insert the ivory in 
the acidulated water, turn it around repeated- 
ly, in order to admit the acid to all parts, re- 
move the ivory from the fluid and dry it. 
Then insert the dried ivory in the boiling so- 
lution of picric acid, turn it also around, and 
leave it in the solution until all parts appear 
of a uniform yellow color. Then remove it 
from the solution of picric acid, dry, and pol- 
ish the ivory with soap water and finely levi- 
gated chalk. After the polishing the ivory 
possesses a permanent dark lemon-yellow 
color. 

1992. To Dye Ivory Violet. Dye red, 
and afterwards blue ; or place the ivory in a 
highly-diluted solution of tin, and boil in the 
logwood bath. 

1993. Aniline Dyes for Ivory. Any 
of these colors give a tine and permanent col- 
or to ivory by immersion. 

1994. To Make Ivory Flexible. Ivory 
is rendered flexible by immersion in a solution 
of pure phosphoric acid (specific gravity 1.13) 
until it loses, or partially loses its opacity, 
when it is washed in clean cold water, and 
dried. In this state it is as flexible as leather, 
but gradually hardens by exposure to dry air. 
Immersion in hot water, however, restores its 
softness and pliancy. The following method 
may also be employed : Put the ivory to 
soak in 3 ounces nitric acid mixed with 15 
ounces water. In 3 or 4 days the ivory wfll be 
soft. 

1995. To Dye Ivory when Softened. 
If it is desired to dye ivory when thus soften- 
ed, dissolve, in spirits of wine, such color as 
may be desii-ed to use. When the spirits of 
wine is sufficiently tinged with the color, 
plunge in the ivory, and leave it there till it is 
dyed to suit, 

1996. To Harden Ivory. To harden 
ivory after it has been softened, wrap it up in 
a sheet of white paper, cover it with dry, de- 
crepitated salt, and lay it by for 24 hours, 
when it will be restored to its original hard- 
ness. 

1997. To Bleach Ivory. Ivory is 
whitened or bleached by rubbing it with fine- 
ly powdered pumice-stone and water, and ex- 
posing it to the sun whilst still moist, under 
a glass shade, to prevent desiccation and the 
occurrence of cracks; observing to repeat 
the process until a proper efi'ect is produced. 
Ivory may also be bleached by immersion for 
a short time in water holding a little sulphur- 
ous acid, chloride of lime, or chlorine in solu- 
tion ; or by exposure to the fumes of burning 
sulphur, largely diluted with air. In many 
cases where, as in piano keys, the ivory can- 
not be removed, the polishing process will be 
found partially successful. 



1998. To Restore Yellow Ivory to 
its Original Whiteness. A thin lime- 
paste is prepared in a pot, and heated over a 
stove; the ivory is placed in this and left 
until white, when it is taken out, dried, an(Z 
polished. 

1999. To Bleach Articles made ol 
Ivory. This process is recommended by Dr. 
J. Artus. The objects made of this substance 
are first placed into a solution containing 11|- 
ounces carbonate of soda in crystals, and 45| 
ounces water. After having been left in this 
fluid for 2 days, the ivory objects are well 
washed in pure water, and then immersed into 
a solution composed of 17 ounces sulphite of 
soda, and 45^ ounces water, and kept thereui 
for 5 or 6 days, after which time there is 
added to the liquid, yet containing the ivory 
objects, 1 ounce hydrochloric acid diluted 
with 5 5 ounces water. After the acid has 
been added, the vessel (glass or porcelain) 
containing the liquid and ivory should be 
covered and left standing for from 24 to 36 
hom-s, after which time the ivory is taken out, 
washed in clean water, and dried. The quan- 
tities of ingredients herein specified suffice for 
22^ ounces of ivory, 

2000. To Polish Ivory. If ivory be 
polished with putty-powder and water, by 
means of a rubber made of hat, it will in a 
short time produce a fine gloss. Or, set the 
ivory in the turner's wheel, and, after having 
worked it, take some rushes and pumice-stone, 
mix a subtle powder with water, and rub tflj 
it becomes perfectly smooth ; then heat it by 
turning it over a piece of linen or sheepskia 
and when hot rub it with a little whitening 
diluted with olive oil; then rub it with alittL'- 
dry whitening alone, and finally with a piecb 
of soft white rag, and the ivory will look re- 
markably white. 

2001. Fluid for Marking Ivory. 
Take nitrate of silver, 2 parts ; nitric acid, 1 
part ; water, 7 parts ; mix. 

2002. Etching Fluid for Ivory. Take 
of diluted sulphuric acid and diluted muriatic 
acid, equal parts. Mix. 

2003. Etching Varnish for Ivory. 
White wax, 2 parts ; tears of mastic, 2 parts. 
Mix. 

2004. To Etch on Ivory. Cover the 
ivory to be etched with a thin coating of bees' 
wax, then trace the figure you desire to pre- 
sent through the wax. Pour over it a strong 
solution of nitrate of silver. Let it remain a 
sufficient length of time, then remove it, with 
the wax, by washing in warm water. The 
design will be left in dark lines on the ivory. 

2005. To Gild Ivory. Immerse it in a 
solution of nitro-muriate of gold, and then, 
while yet damp^, expose it to hydrogen gas. 
Wash it afterwards in clean water. Another 
plan of gilding ivory is by immersing it in a 
fresh solution' of protosulphate of iron, and 
afterwards in a oolution of chloride of gold. 

2006. To Silver Ivory. Immerse the 
ivory in a weak solution of nitrate of silver, 
and let it remain tiU. the solution has given it 
a deep yeUow color ; then take it out and im- 
merse it in clear water, and expose it in the 
water to the rays of the sun. In about 3 
hours the ivory acquires a black color ; but the 
black surface, on being rubbed, soon becomes 
changed to a brilliant sflver. 



200 



IVOBY, ALABASTER, ETG. 



2007. To Clean Ivory Ornaments. 

WTien ivorj ornaments get yellow or dusky- 
looking, -wash them well in soap and water 
with, a small brushy to clean the carvings, and 
place them, while wet, in full sunshine ; wet 
them for 2 or 3 days, several times a day, with 
soapy water, still keeping them in the sun; 
then wash them again, and they will be beau- 
tifully white. N 

2008. Bone for Ornamental Pur- 
poses is treated in a similar way to ivory, 
but less carefully, owing to its inferior value. 
The bones of living animals mqy be dyed by 
mixing madder with their food. The bones 
of young pigeons may thus be tinged of a 
rose color in 24 hours, and of a deep scarlet in 
3 or 4 days ; but the bones of adult animals 
take fully 2 weeks to acquire a rose color. 
The bones nearest the heart become tinged 
soonest. In the same way logwood and the 
extract of logwood wiU tinge the bones of 
joung pigeons purple. 

2009. Ivory Size or Jelly. The dust 
or shavings (ivory dust, ivory shavings) of the 
turner, form a beautiful size or jelly when 
boiled in water. 

2010. Artificial Ivory for Photo- 
graphy. Tablets for photography are made 
by mingling finely pulverized sulphate of 
baryta or heavy spar with gelatine or albumen, 
compressing'the product into sheets and dry- 
ing it. 

2011. Artificial Ivory. The process 
by which the most successful imitation of 
natural ivory is obtained appears to consist in 
dissolving either india-rubber or gutta-percha 
in chloroform, passing chlorine through the 
solution until it has acquired a light yellow 
tint, next washing well with alcohol, then 
adding, in fine powder, either sulphate of 
baryta, sulphate of lime, sulphate of lead, 
alumina, or chalk, in quantity proportioned to 
the desired density and tint, kneading well, 
and finally subjecting to heavy pressure. A 
very tough product, capable of taking a very 
high polish, is obtainable in this way. 

2012. Horn. For practical purposes, 
the horns of the goat and sheep are preferred 
for their whiteness and transparency. 

2013. To Dye Horn. Horn is dyed 
with the same dyes, and in the same manner, 
as ivory. {See Nos. 1982, cfc.) 

2014. To Prepare Horn. Horn is 
softened by sawing it into plates or sheets, 
and then exposing it to powerful pressure 
between hot iron plates. Before pressing, 
the pith has to be removed, and the texture 
softened, first by soaking for some days, and 
then boiling in water. 

2015. To Unite Horn. The surfaces 
and edges of pieces of horn may be united or 
cemented together by softening by the heat 
of boiling water, then placing the parts in 
contact under strong pressure in a vise, and 
again exposing to the heat of boiling water. 

2016. To Dye or Stain Horn Tortoise- 
shell Color. The horn to be dyed must be 
first pressed into proper plates, scales, or 
other flat form, and the following mixture 
prepared: Take of quicklime 2 parts, and 
litharge 1 part ; temper them together to the 
consistence of a soft paste, with soap lye. 
Put this paste over all the parts of the horn, 
except such as are proper to be left transpar- 



ent, in order to give it a near resemblance to 
the tortoise-shell. The horn must remain in 
this manner covered with the paste till it is 
thoroughly dry; when, the paste being brushed 
off", the horn will be found partly opaque and 
partly transparent, in the manner of tortoise- 
shell, and, when put over a foil of Dutch gold 
metal, will be scarcely distinguishable from it. 
It requires some degree of fancy and judg- 
ment to dispose of the paste in such a man- 
ner as to form a variety of transparent parts, 
of difierent magnitudes and figures, to look 
like the effect of nature ; and it will be an 
improvement to add semi-transparent parts^ 
which may be done by mixing whiting with 
some of the paste, to weaken its operation in 
particular places, by which spots of a reddish- 
brown will be produced, which, if properly 
interspersed, especially on the edges of the 
dark parts, will greatly increase the beauty of 
the work, and its similitude to real tortoise- 
sheU. 

2017. To Stain Horn in Imitation 
of Tortoise-shell. Mix an equal quantity of 
quicklime and red lead with strong soap lees, 
lay it on the horn with a small brush, in imi- 
tation of the mottle of tortoise-shell; when 
dry, repeat it two or three times. 

201 8. To Join or Weld Tortoise-shell 
or Horn. Provide a pair of pincers or 
tongs, constructed so as to reach 4 inches 
beyond the rivet ; then have the tortoise-shell 
filed clean to a lap-joint, carefully observing 
that there is no grease about it; wet the 
joint with water, apply the pincers hot, fol- 
lowing them with water, and the shell will be 
joined as if it were one piece. The heat must 
not be so great as to burn the shell, therefore 
try it first on a piece of white paper. 

2019. To Polish Tortoise-Shell or 
Horn. Having scraped the work perfectly 
smooth and level, rub it with very fine sand- 
paper or Dutch rushes; repeat the rubbing 
with a bit of felt dipped in very finely pow- 
dered charcoal with water, and, lastly, with 
rotten-stone or putty-powder ; and finish with 
a piece of soft wash-leather, damped with a 
little sweet oil ; or, still better, rub it with sub- 
nitrate of bismuth by the palm of the hand. 

2020. Alabaster. Oriental alabaster is 
a substance of a pure, semi-translucent white- 
ness, occasionally found vaiiegated with un- 
dulating veins of yellow, red and brown. 
The common alabaster, usually met with in 
ornaments &c., is made of gypsum (plaster of 
Paris), and prepared so as to imitate the gen- 
uine. The following receipts are for the 
gypsum imitation, and not the real alabaster. 
By using any of the hardening processes, 
beautiful imitations of marble may be pro^ 
duced, but they require great care and skill. 

2021. To Engrave or Etch on Imita- 
tion Alabaster. Cover every part of the 
surface, except those portions to be etched, 
with a solution of 1 part white wax in 4 parts 
oil of turpentine, thickening with a little finely 
powdered white lead; immerse the cast in 
water for from 20 to 50 hours, according to 
the eff'ect desired. Then wash ofl" the cover- 
ing solution with oil of turpentine, and brush 
over carefully the etched parts with powdered 
gypsum (plaster of Paris). The etching is 
produced by the solvent action of the water 
on the gypsum. 



IVOBT, ALABASTER, ETC. 



201 



2022. To Harden Alabaster. Expose 
the unpolished articles for from 12 to 24 hours 
to a heat about equal to tha'b or a "^Daker's 
oven ; withdraw from the heat, and when con- 
siderably cooled, immerse them for from 2 to 5 
minutes in pure river water. The operation 
may be repeated a second time, and 3 or 4 days 
are aHoAved to elapse before polishing them. 
A weak solution of alum in water may oe 
substituted for the river water. 

2023. To Dress Plaster of Paris with. 
"Wa^ in Imitation of Alabaster. Dip the 
cast or model, previously Avarmed, and sus- 
pended by a fine silken cord or wire into the 
purest white wax, melted In any suitable ves- 
sel. The operation should be repeated until 
the liquid wax begins to rest unabsorbecl on 
the surface of the plaster, when the article 
must be placed aside (suspended) until the 
next day, when it may be polished with a 
clean brush. jSTone but the hardest, purest, 
and whitest wax will do for the above purpose. 
That commonly sold is mixed with spermaceti, 
stearine, or tallow, and not unfrequently with 
Japanese wax and potato starch. (See No. 
1582. J 

2024. To Render Plaster Figures 
Durable. First thoroughly dry the plaster 
figure in a warm dry atmosphere ; place it in 
a vessel and cover it with the clearest linseed 
oil, just warm. After 12 hours, take it out, 
drain, and let it dry in a place free from dust. 
"When dry it will look like wax, and can be 
washed without injury. 

2025. To Harden Plaster. Mix up 
the plaster of Paris with a weak solution of 
'gum arabio (1 ounce to 1 pint of water); or, 
for common purposes, a weak solution of size. 
This not only renders the plaster harder, but 
gives the surface a pleasing smoothness. 

2026. To Harden Imitation Alabas- 
ter with Alum. Suspend the article by a 
fine silken cord or wire in a strong and per- 
fectly clear solution of alum, letting it remain 
until the alum crystallizes on the surface ; 
then polish with a wet cloth. 

2027. To Make Hard Plaster of 
Paris. Mix with weak alum water, instead 
of water, for casting ; or, a solution of 1^ or 
2 ounces of gum-arabic to the pint of water ; 
or, for common purposes, a weak solution of 
size mav be used. 

2028. To Harden Plaster with Sul- 
phate of Potassa. If equal parts of com- 
mon calcined plaster of Paris and of sulphate 
of potassa be mixed together, they will harden 
in a moment with less than an equivalent 
weight of water ; so much so, indeed, that the 
mixtm'e cannot be poured out of the vessel. 
If, however, 1 part of each of the salts and 2 
of water be used, they form a mass which can- 
not be poured out, and the surface of which 
will be found coated with a crust of sulphate 
of potash. The rapidity of hardening, there- 
f(n-e, can be made to vary with the percentage 
of water, the mass solidifying even if 6 parts 
of water be used. 

2029. To Stain or Color Alabaster. 
This is efiected by mixing with the water 
used for working the gypsum, any of the or- 
dinary pigments or colored solutions that are 
not decomposed by contact with sulphate or 
carbonate of lime. A little sienna in very 
fine powder, or ground with water, imparts a 



good color for busts, medaUions, &c For 
rough and architectural purposes, the colors 
are commonly added to a solution of clear 
size, which is then made into a paste with 
plaster. In this manner colored stucco of 
great hardness and durability is produced. 
Objects formed from the soHd alabaster may 
be stained in the same way, and with the 
same materials, as marble. {SeeXos. 2036, <^x.) 
2030. To Polish Alabaster. The ob- 
ject, received in the rough state from the 
hands of the sculptor or turner, is rubbed 
with finely-powdered pumice-stone, or dried 
shave-gras3 (equisetum) and water, and after- 
wards with a paste formed of finely-powdered 
and sifted slacked lime and water. " The rough 
pohsh thus produced is then brought up and 
finished off by friction with finely-powdered 
talc, or French chalk, until a satiny lustre is 
produced. 

2031. To Prevent Expansion or 
Shrinkage in Casting Plaster. Use lime 
water instead of plain water to mix the plaster 
of Paris, k an ounce of sulphate of potassa 
dissolved in each quart of water will have the 
same effect, but weakens the plaster. 

2032. To Make Artificial Marble 
for Paper Weights or other Fancy- 
Articles. Soak plaster of Paris in a solution 
of alum; bake it in an oven, and then grind it 
to a powder. In using, mix it with water, 
and to produce the clouds and veins, stir in 
any dry color you wish; this will become 
very hard, and is susceptible of a high polish. 

2033. ToPoUshMother-of-Pearl. Go 
over it with pumice stone, finely powdered 
(first washed to separate the impurities and 
dirt), with which you may polish it very 
smooth ; then apply putty powder as directed 
for ivory, and it will produce a fine gloss 
and a good color. (See Xo. 2000.) 

2034. To Clean Alabaster. Soap well 
and wash with hot water. If stained, apply 
fuller's earth, pipe- clay, or whiting, for 3 or 4 
hours, then wash off. If very dirty and 
stained, first wash with aquafortis diluted 
with water. Or : Take ground pumice stone 
of the finest quality, and mix it up with ver- 
juice ; let it stand for 2 hours, then dip in a 
sponge and rub the alabaster with it; wash 
with a linen cloth and fresh water, and dry 
with clean linen rags. Any kind of marble 
may be done in the same manner. 

2035. To Polish Marble. "With a 
piece of very fine sandstone, rub the slab 
backward and forward; using very fine sand 
and water, till the marble appears equally 
rough, and not in scratches; next use a finer 
stone and finer sand, till its surface appears 
equally gone over; then, with fine emery- 
powdeV and a piece of felt or old hat wrapped 
round a weight, rub it tiU all the marks left 
by the former process are worked out, and it 
appears with a comparative gloss on its sur- 
face. Afterward finish the polish with putty 
powder and fine clean rags. As soon as the 
face appears of a good gloss, do not put any 
more powder on the rags, but rub it well, and 
in a short time it will have a fine polish. De- 
fects may also be brought up with tripoli, fol- 
lowed by putty powder; both being used 
along with water. 

2036. To Dye or Stain Marble. 
Marljle may be stained or dyed of various 



202 



PTIIOTECHNY. 



colors by applying their solutions to the stone 
made sufficiently hot to make the liquid just 
simmer on the surface. Success in the appli- 
cation of the colors requires considerable ex- 
perience. By their skillful use a pleasing 
effect, both of color and grain, may be pro- 
duced. The following are the substances 
usually employed for this pui'pose : 

2037. Blue Stain for Marble. Tinc- 
ture or solution of litmus, or an alkaline solu- 
tion of indigo. {See No. 2036.) 

2038. Brown Stain for Marble. 
Tincture of logwood. {See No. 2036.) 

^039. Crimson Stain for Marble. 
A solution of alkanet root in oil of turpentine. 
{SeeNo.2mQ.) 

2040. Flesh Color Stain for Marble. 
Wax tinged with alkanet root, and applied to 
the marble hot enough to melt it. {See No. 
2036.) 

2041. Gold Color Stain for Marble. 
A mixture of equal parts of white vitriol, sal 
ammoniac, and verdigris, all in fine powder, 
carefully applied. {See No. 2036.) 

2042. Green Stain for Marble. An 
alkaline solution or tincture of sap green, or 
wax strongly colored with verdigris, or stain 
the stone first blue, and then yellow. {See 
No. 2036.) 

2043. Red Stain for Marble. Tincture 
of dragon's blood, alkanet root, or cochineal. 
{See No. 2036.) 

2044. Yellow Stain for Marble. 
Tincture of gamboge, turmeric, or saffron. 
{See No. 2036.) 

2045. Acids Injurious to Marble. 
Marble being a carbonate of lime, and the two 
substances not having a very great affinity, 
care should be taken in the use of marble 
furniture and ornaments, as tables, mantels, 
statuary, etc. Acids of any kind will more or 
less affect marble, and they should not be al- 
lowed to touch it. The slabs on which acids 
are allowed to stand soon lose their polish, 
and are liable to a degree of disintegration 
which impans their beauty. Fruits, sauces, 
vinegar, etc., should not be allowed to come 
in contact with a marble-topped table or 
shelf. 

2046. To Polish Meerschaum. The 
dust of meerschaum is the best article for this 
purpose. 

2047. Artificial Meerschaum. Arti- 
ficial meerschaum may be made by immersing 
carbonate of magnesia in a warm solution of 
silicate of soda or potash for some time, or by 
precipitating from a solution of epsom salts 
by means of the silicates. 



Pyrotechny. TMs is the art of 
making fireworks. The three principal 
materials employed in this art are charcoal, 
saltpetre, and sulphur, combined with filings of 
iron, steel, copper or zinc, or with resin, cam- 
phor, lycopodium and other substances, to 
impart color, or to modify the effect and dura- 
tion of the combustion. Gunpowder is used, 
either in grain, half crushed, or meal (finely 
ground), as circumstances may require. Iron 
filings give red and bright spots. Copper 
filings give a greenish tint to flame ; those of 



zinc, a fine blue color ; sulphm-et of antimony 
gives a less greenish blue than the zinc, but 
with much smoke ; amber, resin and common 
salt afford a yellow fire. Lycopodium bums 
with a rose color and a magnificent flame, (fee. 

2049. • The Leading- Fireworks. The 
leading simple fireworks are rockets, Roman 
candles, flowerpots or gerbs, mines, and their 
adaptations or varieties ; quick fires of differ- 
ent kinds and colors in cases, such as golden 
rain, spur fire, (fee; slow fires in cases and pots, 
as blue lights, Bengal lights, <tc. These form 
the fundamental principles of all pyrotechnic 
display. The endless variety of their combi- 
nations in the shape of vertical and horizontal 
wheels and "set pieces," requires considerable 
fertility of invention and mechanical ingenuity, 
combined with a thorough practical knowledge 
of the nature of firework compositions, and 
the appropriate means of displaying them to 
the best advantage. The weights used in the 
following receipts are avoirdupois. 

2050. To Make Plain Rockets. The 
cases are made of stout cartridge paper, rolled 
on a rod whose thickness is equal to the de- 
sned diameter of the bore. The rod is slightly 
tapering, to allow of its easier withdrawal 
after the case is rolled and pasted. The 
narrower end of the case is choked ; that is, 
a neck is made in it, similar to the neck of a 
phial. {See No. 2053.) The composition 
{see No. 2054) is next rammed tightly into 
the case {see No. 2052), which is supported by 
a closely fitting mould during this operation, 
finishing with a small charge of gunpowder 
to explode when the rocket goes out. The 
top of the case is then stopped with clay and 
a conical cap fastened on, to decrease the 
resistance of the air in its upward flight ; and 
the bottom or choked end of the case is fur- 
nished with priming and touch-paper. The 
whole is secured to the end of a willow stick, 
to direct its course through the air. 

2051. To Make Display Rockets. 
Rockets whose discharge ends in display, are 
furnished with an extra case, called the pot, 
about i the length of the rocket ; its inside 
diameter is the same as the outside diameter 
of the rocket case, over which it is glued 
firmly, and takes the place of the conical cap. 
The garniture, consisting of stars, serpents, 
(fee, as the case may be {see No. 2055), is in- 
serted in the pot and connected with the 
charge in the rocket case by a quick match. 
{See No. 2060.) The whole is finished with 
the clay and cap, the same as the head of a 
simple rocket. 

2052. To Charge Rocket Cases. In 
charging rocket cases, in order to increase 
the rapidity of its discharge a wire is some- 
times inserted through the centre of the 
charge, the rammer being constructed with a 
small bore through its length, to receive this 
wire when ramming the charge. This wire is 
withdrawn when the charge is complete, and 
the space it has left is filled with a quick 
match {see No. 2060), which thus sets fire to 
the entire charge at once. This central space 
is called the soul of the rocket, and the adop- 
tion of this arrangement is necessary for 
large rockets, especially those having heavy 
pots. 

2053. To Choke Firework Cases. A 
short cylindrical piece of wood, of the same 



PYBOTECHXY. 



20t3 



diameter as the thin end of the rod used for 
rolling a case, is furnished with a wire, the 
thickness of which must he the same as the 
desired bore of the choke. The end of the 



^ 


( 1 J>^::::^c]\ 



rod has a hole bored in it to receive this wire 
loosely. A is the rod on which the case is to 
be rolled ; C the cap of the same diameter as 
the end of the rod, having the wire inserted 
firmly in its axis. The rod is bored, as the 
dotted lines at B denote, to receive the wire. 
The outside dotted lines indicate a case on 
the rod, choked at ^ST. This is effected by 
stretching a piece of strong cord, a single 
turn of which is passed round the case at IsT, 
compressing it firmly and leaving a bore of 
the same size as the wire between the rod and 
the cap. In rolling a case to be choked, the 
paper should be used in pieces, each piece 
wide enough to make about 3 thicknesses 
when rolled over the rod, and the choking 
done after each piece is rolled, ^hen finish- 
ed, the rod is withdrawn from the mouth of 
the case^ and the cap and wire from the other 
end. 

2054. Composition for Rockets. For 
2 ounce rockets : — Mix 544 parts nitre (salt- 
petre), 18 parts sulphur, and 27i of charcoal, 
all in fine powder. Sift through lawn. For 
4 ounce rockets : — 64 parts nitre, 16 parts sul- 
phur, and 20 parts charcoal. For 8 ounce to 1 
pound rockets : — 62f parts nitre, 15f parts sul- 
phur, and 21^ parts charcoal. For rockets f 
inch in diameter : — 16 parts nitre, 4 parts sul- 
phur, and 7 parts charcoal. For rockets 1^ 
inches in diameter use 1 part more nitre, and 
for still larger rockets, another additional part 
nitre. By using 1 part less charcoal, and 
adding respectively 3, 4, and 5 parts fine steel 
filings, the above are converted into brilliant 
fires; or, by using coarse iron filings, and 
'still less charcoal, they become Chinese fire. 

2055. CMnese Fire for Sky Rockets. 
If I inch or under, nitre, 16 parts ; charcoal, 
4 parts; sulphur, 8 parts; cast-iron borings, 
4 parts. Mix. Or : If over 1 inch and under 
2 inches bore, nitre 16 parts ; charcoal, 4 parts; 
sulphur, 4 parts ; iron borings, 5 parts. Mix. 

2056. Golden Rain. Mealed powder, 4 
ounces; saltpetre, 1 pound; sulphur, 4 ounces; 
brass filiugs, 1 ounce; sawdust, 2i ounces; 
glass powder, 6 drachms. 

2057. Silver Rain. Mealed powder, 2 
ounces; saltpetre, 4 ounces; sulphur, 1 ounce ; 
steel dust, f ounce. 

2058. Trailed Stars for Rockets and 
Roman Candles. Saltpetre, 4 ounces ; sul- 
phur, 6 ouuces ; sulphate of antimony, 2 oun- 
ces; resin, 4 ounces. With sparks. Mealed 
powder, 1 ounce; saltpetre, 1 ounce; camphor, 
2 ounces. Other receipts for stars suitable 
for rocket garniture will be found under the I 
head of " Colored Fires."' (See Xo. 2065, .fc.) ; 

2059. To Prepare Touch. Paper. I 
Soak unglazed paper in a solution of nitre in 1 
vinegar or water. The stronger the solution, j 
the faster will it burn. A good plan is to dip j 
it in a weak solution, dry it, tiy it, and if it ! 
burns too slowly, make the solution stronger j 
and dip it again to make it burn faster. ' 



2060. To Make Q,mck Match. Quick 
match is made by immersing lamp-wick in a 
solution of saltpetre with meal powder, wind- 
ing it on a frame, and afterwards dusting with 
meal powder. To 28 ounces cotton, take salt- 
petre, 1 pound; alcohol, 2 quarts; water, 3 
quarts; solution of isinglass (1 ounce to the 
pint), 3 gallons ; mealed powder, 10 pounds. 

2061. Inextinguishable Match. Taka 
4 parts dry nitre, 2 gunpowder, 2 charcoal, 
and 1 sulphur, and mix them ; then ram the 
compound into paper cases 9 inches in length 
and of the thickness of a common quill. 
"When this composition is inflamed, rain will 
not extinguish it; the burning end of the 
match must be cut off to stay the fire. 

2062. To Make Roman Candles. The 
cases for Eoman candles are not choked, but 
well secured at the bottom with clay. A 
small charge of gunpowder is first intro- 
duced, then a star, followed by a charge of 
composition (see No. 2063) ; these are gently 
rammed down, and the same routine of gun- 
powder, star, and composition, is repeated 
until the case is full. Lastly, prime and close 
with touch paper. The stars are flat cylinders 
of a paste composition, cut to fit the bore of 
the case, and having a hole bored in their cen- 
tre to allow the fire to pass through to the 
charge behind them. The stars which are 
nearest to the mouth of the case should fit a 
little tightly, and gradually a little more loose- 
ly as they are further from the mouth. The 
charges of powder behind them should also 
decrease by degrees as their position is fur- 
ther from the mouth of the case. It is also 
advisable to put a loose wad of one thickness 
of paper, with a hole in the centre, between 
each star and the gunpowder behind it. 

2063. Composition for Roman Can- 
dles. Mix 5 pound meal-powder, 2k pounds 
saltpetre, and i pound each sulphur and glass 
dust. 

2064. Colored Stars may be made by 
using any of the receipts for colored fires, 
with a solution of isinglass, k ounce ; cam- 
phor, I ounce ; and alcohol, f ounce. Make 
into cylindrical cakes of the requisite size, 
punch a hole in the centre of each, roll in 
gunpowder, and dry in the sun. 

2065. Colored Fires. Great care is 
necessary in the preparation of these com- 
bustibles. The ingredients should be sejja- 
ratehj reduced to powder and sifted ; then put 
into well-corked, wide-mouthed bottles until 
the time for mixing them for use. Colored 
fires deteriorate raj)idly by keeping, and are 
nearly all dangerously inflammable; they 
should, therefore, be mixed as soon as possi- 
ble before using them. The ingredients 
should be pure and perfectly dry ; uniformly 
powdered, but not so fine as to be dusty. 
Xitrate of strontia, alum, carbonate of soda, 
and other crystals, should be gently heated in 
an iron pan until they lose their water of 
crystallization and crumble into dry powder. 
(See Dnjing, No. 3842.) Chlorate/ of potas- 
aa mnsthe very cautioushj handled, as it ex- 
plodes by moderate friction. The requisite 
quantity of each ingredient should be weighed 
and placed on a clean sheet of white paper, 
and mixed lightly with a bone knife ; they 
may then be more thoroughly mixed \»y sift- 
ing through a fine ^vire seive. 



204r 



PYEOTECSNY. 



2066. Colored Fires for Uluminations. 

Pack the compounds lightly into small cups 
or pans. 

2067. Colored Fires for Stars, &c. 

The compounds may be put into small pill- 
boxes, with a little priming and a quick match 
{see No. 2060) attached to each. If kept, 
they should be put where no damage can hap- 
pen in case of their catching fire. 

2068. To Make Colored Fires. The 
following receipts for the preparation of these 
effective aids in pyrotechnic and dramatic 
display, are among the very best that are 
known. These fires have in some theatres 
been assisted, if not superseded, by the calcium 
light ; color being communicated by passing 
the rays of light through colored glass. The 
unpleasant smell of colored fires is avoided, 
and the effects can be prolonged at pleasure, 
instead of lasting merely a few moments. 

2069. Blue Fire. Mix 2 parts realgar 
(red arsenic), 3 parts charcoal, 5 parts chlorate 
of potassa, 13 parts sulphm-, and 77 parts 
nitrate of baryta. 

2070. Bird's Blue Fire. 1 part char- 
coal, 1 part orpiment (yellow sulphuret of 
arsenic), 16 parts black sulphuret of antimo- 
ny, 48 parts nitre, and 64 parts sulphur. 

2071. Bengal, or Blue Signal Light, 
used at Sea. 1 part tersulphide of antimo- 
ny, 2 parts sulphur, and 6 parts dry nitre. 
{See No. 2065.) 

2072. Bengal Lights. Braunschweizer 
recommends the following mixtures as not 
producing injurious fumes: For red lights; 
9 parts nitrate of strontia, 3 parts shellac, 11 
parts chlorate of potassa. For green : 9 parts 
nitrate of baryta, 3 parts of shellac, I5 parts 
chlorate of potassa. For blue : 8 parts am- 
moniacal sulphate of copper, 6 parts chlorate 
of potassa, 1 part of shellac. 

2073. Blue Fire for Stage Effect. 
15 parts of sulphur, 15 parts sulphate of po- 
tassa, 15 parts ammonio-sulphate of copper, 
27 parts nitre, and 28 parts chlorate of potassa. 
The blue is made darker or lighter by increas- 
ing or diminishing the potassa and copper in- 
gredients. This is Marchand^s preparation. 

2074. Marsh's Blue Fire. Mix 7 
parts sulphate of copper, 24 sulphur, and 69 
parts chlorate of potassa. 

2075. Marsh's Crimson Fire for Pots. 
Mix 17 parts chlorate of potassa, 23 willow 
charcoal, 90 parts sulphur, and 270 parts 
nitrate of strontia. 

2076. Marsh's Crimson Fire for 
Stars and Boxes. Mix 17 parts charcoal, 
22 parts sulphuret of antimony, 69 chlorate 
of potassa, 72 parts sulphur, and 220 parts 
nitrate of strontia. 

2077. Marchand's Purple Crimson 
Fire. Mix 16 parts sulphur, 23 parts dry 
chalk, 61 parts chlorate of potassa. 

2078. Green Fire for Ghost Scenes. 
Equal parts charcoal and nitrate of baryta. 

2079. Brilliant Green Fire. A mag- 
nificent green fijre can be prepared by mixing 
8 parts chlorate of thallium, 2 parts calomel, 
and 1 part resin. 

2080. Green Fire. Take 2 parts metallic 
arsenic, 3 parts charcoal, 5 parts chlorate of 
potassa, 13 parts sulphur, 77 parts nitrate of 
baryta. This is a beautiful fire, particularly 
when burnt before a reflector of glass or metal. 



2081. Marchand's Green Fire. Mix 

10 parts boracic acid, 17 sulphur, and 73 
parts chlorate of potassa. 

2082. Green Fire for Theatrical 
Tableaux. Take 18 parts chlorate of potassa, 
22 parts sulphur, 60 parts nitrate of baryta. 

2083. Light Green Fire. Mix 16 
parts sulphur, 24 carbonate of baryta, 60 parts 
chlorate of potassa. 

2084. Green Fire for Pots or Stars.' 
Take 7 parts charcoal, 7 sulphuret of arsenic, 
42 parts sulphur, 93 parts chlorate of potassa, 
250 parts nitrate of baryta. 

2085. Lilac Fire for Pans. Take 6 
parts black oxide of copper, 20 dry chalk, 25 
parts sulphur, 49 parts chlorate of potassa. 

2086. Lilac Fire for Stars. Take 3 
parts black oxide of copper, 22 parts dried 
chalk, 25 parts sulphur, 50 chlorate of potassa. 

2087. Red Fire. Mix 16 parts sul- 
phur, 23 parts carbonate of strontia, 61 parts 
chlorate of potassa. 

2088. Bed Fire for Stage Effect. 
Mix 20 parts chlorate of potassa, 24 sulphur, 
56 parts nitrate of strontia. 

2089. Orange Red Fire. Take 14 
parts sulphur, 34 chalk, 52 parts chlorate of 
potassa. 

2090. Purple Red Fire. Sulphur, 16 
parts, 23 parts chalk, 61 parts chlorate of 
potassa. 

2091. Purple Fire. Take 1 part each 
of lampi)lack, red arsenic, and nitre ; 2 parts 
sulphur, 5 parts chlorate of potassa, and 16 
parts fused nitrate of strontia. 

2092. Pink Fire for the Stage. Mix 1 
part charcoal, 20 chalk, 20 parts sulphur, 27 
parts chlorate of potassa, 32 parts nitre. 

2093. Rose Colored Fire. Take 16 
parts sulphur, 23 dried chloride of calcium, 61 
parts chlorate of potassa. 

2094. Pale Violet Fire. Take 14 
parts sulphur, 16 parts alum, 16 carbonate of 
potassa, 54 parts chlorate of potassa. 

2095. Dark Violet Fire. Take 12 
parts alum, 12 parts carbonate of potassa, 16 
parts sulphur, 60 parts chlorate of potassa. 

2096. White Fire for Theatres. Take 
2 parts charcoal, 22 sulphur, 76 parts nitre. 

2097. White Fire for Pans or Stars. 
Take 60 parts nitre, 20 parts sulphur, 10 black 
antimony, 4 parts powdered camphor, 6 parts 
meal powder. 

2098. Marsh's White Fire for Pans. 
Take 25 parts gunpowder, 36 zinc filings, 46 
parts sulphur, 93 parts nitre. 

2099. Yellow Fire. Take 16 parts sul- 
phur, 23 parts dried (/See ^^0. 2065) carbonate of 
soda, 61 chlorate of potassa. 

2100. Marsh's Yellow Fire. Mix 12 
parts charcoal, 149 parts dry {see No. 2065) 
nitrate of soda, 39 parts sulphur. 

2101. Fire-eating Ghosts. Pour some^ 
strong warm spirits into a flat dish, sprinkle 
some salt into it, and set it on fire on a table 
in a perfectly dark room, taking care to pro- 
tect the table from injury. Persons standing 
round the table will appear of a deathly 
pallor, and by eating raisins dipped in the 
burning spirit, will appear to eat fire. Shut- 
ting the mouth quickly on the burning raisins, 
extinguishes them instantly. 

2102. Port Fire. The port fire used 
for cannon is composed of 3 parts nitre, 2 



PYBOTECRNT. 



205 



sulphur, and 1 gunpowder^ well inised and 
rammed into cases. These are also useful for 
igniting fireworks. 

2103. Signal Lighits. Such lights are 
generally composed of sulphur and nitre, with 
a small quantity of metallic sulphuret. Mix 
600 grains nitre, 2 sulphur, and 100 yellow 
sulphuret of arsenic, and ram it into a conical 
paper case. TVhen touched with a red-hot 
iron it deflagrates rapidly with a brilliant 
white light. The sulphuret of antimony may 
be substituted for that of arsenic. 

2104. Indian WMte Fire Signal. 
Dry {see No. 2065) nitre, 24 parts; sulphur, 
7 parts ; powdered charcoal, 1 ; or instead of 
the charcoal, 2 parts red sulphuret of arsenic. 
Mix them intimately in an iron vessel, and 
ram the mixture into thick pai)er cylinders of 
about 3 inches in length by 1 in diameter. 
These are kept in a dry place, and when one 
is required to be used, it is set on end, and a 
piece of red-hot charcoal placed upon it. 

2105. Iron Sand for Fireworks. 
TJsed to give corruscations in fireworks, is far 
better than iron or steel-filings. It is made 
by beating cast steel or iron into small pieces 
on an anvil. These are sifted into 4 sizes, the 
smallest for the smallest pieces, and vice 
versa. The corruscations produced by these 
are exceedingly brilliant. The sand should 
be kept in a dry place in a well-closed bottle, 
as any rust damages it. Fireworks containing 
it should not be made very long before using. 

2108. Open Fires. The following arti- 
cle and receipts for open fires are by Professor 
Ferrum, and we quote them from the "Amer- 
ican Druggists' Circular" : 

Among themany receipts for open fires, but 
few deserve to be recommended, and these 
have been selected. The white and red fires 
only show a clear, distinct color. The green 
is generally pale, and shows ofi" only when 
burnt after"^ a red. A pure blue is very diffi- 
cult to obtain. The following should be ob- 
served as general rules : The ingredients for 
the fires are dried singly at a slightly elevated 
temperature, finely powdered, and preserved 
in well-stoppered bottles, until required for 
use The mixing of the ingredients is best 
performed on a sheet of paper by means of a 
card, and should be done very carefully so as 
to ensure a complete mixture. Sifting is in 
most cases admissible, while triturating in 
a mortar is above all to be avoided. After 
mixing, the powder is piled in small heaps iti 
open vessels, for which purpose small flower- 
pots or flower-pot dishes are well adapted. 
On top of these several piles, some gunpow- 
der is placed to facilitate the lighting. The 
vessels should be arranged in such a manner 
that the flame may illuminate the intended 
object without being seen by the spectators. 
The distribution of the material into a greater 
or less number of dishes is governed by cir- 
cumstances. A great number of small flames 
from a certain quantity of mixtm-e generally 
give a more intense, but so much shorter- 
lived light than the same quantity distributed 
in larger portions; beyond a certain limit, 
however, even that intensity is not materially 
heightened by a few more lights. If the fire 
is to continue for some time, it must further 



of slags, which greatly mar the eflect. It is, 
therefore, best in such cases to burn ofi' a num- 
ber of small charges successively. 

2107. White Fire. The following mix- 
ture we recommend as the very best for white 
lights, being unsurpassed in brilliancy and 
power by any other : 

Saltpetre, 18 parts; sulphur, 10 parts; 
black sulphuret of antimony, 3 parts ; burnt 
lime, 4 parts. The sulphur is used in the 
form of flowers previously dried ; the lime is 
not to be slacked, but must be finely powder- 
ed; it must be fresh, and be powdered imme- 
diately before use. All other mixtures for 
white fires have either a bluish tinge or con-^ 
tain deleterious ingredients, which render 
them at least unsuitable for indoor use. Of 
the latter class we will mention only one: 
Saltpetre, 12 parts; sulphur, 4 parts; sul- 
phite of tin, 1 part. Two other mixtures de- 
serve mention, though not equal to the last : 

I. Saltpetre, 48 parts; sulphur, 13J parts; 
sulphide of sodium, 1 i parts ; and 

II. Saltpetre, 64 parts ; sulphm*, 21 parts ; 
gunpowder, 15 parts. 

2108. Blue Fire. The only mixture to 
be relied on, though the light is not purely blue, 
but bluish white, is the following : Saltpetre, 
12 parts ; sulphur, 4 parts ; black sulphm-et of 
antimony, 1 part. 

2109. Red Fire. The following mix- 
ture is the best in use ; its composition may 
be altered by various admixtures : 

I. jSTitrate of strontia, 13 parts ; sulphur, 1 
part ; powder dust, 1 part. The latter ingre- 
dient is prepared from fine gunpowder, rubbed 
up carefully in a mortar and then sifted 
through a hair sieve. Another receipt is : 

II. Mtrate of strontia, 24 parts; chlorate 
of i)otassa, 16 parts; stearine, 4 parts; powder- 
ed charcoal, 1 part. In using chlorate of potas- 
sa the precautions given in oSTo, 2124 must be 
strictly observed, and all pounding and rub- 
bing avoided. 

III. S"itrate of strontia, 20 parts ; chlorate 
of potassa, 4 parts ; sulphur, 5 parts ; black 
sulphuret of antimony, 2 parts; powdered 
charcoal, 1 part. Gives a very strong light. 
The nitrate of strontia for these fires, as the 
ingredients for all others, must be well, but 
carefully dried. (See No. 2065. J 

2110. Yellow Fire. This color, which 
is very little used, is produced by the follow- 
ing nfixture : JSTitrate of soda, 48 parts ; sul- 
phur, 16 parts ; black sulphuret of antimony, 
4 parts ; powdered charcoal, 1 part. 

2111. Green Fires. The coloring in- 
gredients for these lights are the salts of ba- 
ryta. The color is generally not very deep. 

I. JSTitrate of baryta, 45 parts ; sulphm-, 10 
parts ; chlorate of potassa, 20 parts ; calomel, 

2 parts ; lampblack, 1 part. 

II. J^itrate of baryta, 60 parts; chlorate 
of potassa, 18 parts ; sulphur, 22 parts. 

III. Chlorate of baryta, 3 parts ; sulphur, 
1 part. 

IT. Chlorate of baryta, 24 parts ; stearin, 

3 parts ; sugar of milk, 1 part. 
Y. Chlorate of baryta, 3 parts; sugar of 

milk, 1 part. 

2112. Colored Lights. ^& derive the 
receipts for these from the same source as the 



be considered that large quantities of the mix- 1 open fires. {See No. 2106.) Colored lights 
ture form a correspondingly greater amount I are formed by fillmg cylinders of thin writing 



206 



EXPL OSITE S. 



paper of about an inch, in diameter Tritli the 
mixtures. The length of the cylinder deter- 
mines the duration of the light. The mix- 
tures may be moistened and pounded into the 
cylinder with a wooden rod; after drying, 
they will then be hard enough to allow of the 
removal of the paper, and may be further 
strengthened by being dipped in or painted 
over with mucilage of gum-arabic. The cyl- 
inders, when finished, are tied to the upper end 
of sticks fastened in the ground in a vertical 
position. The mixtures vary essentially from 
those used for colored fires. 

2113. White Lights. Saltpetre, 4 
parts ; sulphur, 1 part ] black sulphm-et of 
antimonv, 1 part. 

21 14."" Yellow Lights. I. Black sul- 
phuret of antimony, 2 parts ; chlorate of po- 
tassa, 4 parts; sulphur, 2 parts; oxalate of 
soda, 1 part. 

II. Saltpetre, 140 parts; sulphur, 45 parts: 
oxalate of soda, 30 parts ; lampblack, 1 part 

2115. Green Lights. I. Chlorate of 
baryta, 2 parts; nitrate of barj-ta, 3 parts; 
sulphm*, 1 part. 

II. Chlorate of potassa, 20 parts ; nitrate 
of baryta, 21 parts; sulphur, 11 parts. 

2116. Red Lights, is'itrate of strontia, 
25 parts ; chlorate of potassa, 15 parts ; sul- 
phur, 13 parts ; black sulphuret of antimony, 
4 parts ; mastich, 1 part. 

2117. Pink Lights. Chlorate of potas- 
sa, 12 parts ; saltpetre, 5 parts ; sugar of milk, 
4 parts ; lycopodium, 1 part ; oxalate of stron- 
tia, 1 part. 

2118. Blue Lights. Chlorate of potas- 
sa, 3 parts; sulphm-, 1 part; ammoniated 
copper, 1 part. 

2119. Colored Lights without Sul- 
phur—For Indoor Illuminations. These 
are used for the pm-pose of lighting up tab- 
leaux vivants, and for private theatricals. 

2120. White Light. Chlorate of po- 
tassa, 12 parts; saltpetre, 4 parts; sugar of 
milk, 4 parts ; lycopodium, 1 part ; carbonate 
of baryta, 1 part. 

2121. YeUow Light. Chlorate of po- 
tassa, 6 parts (or nitrate of baryta 10 parts); 
saltpetre, 6 parts ; oxalate of soda, 5 parts ; 
powdered shellac, 3 parts. 

2122. Green Light. Only after yeUow 
or red lights. Chlorate of potassa, 2 parts ; 
nitrate of baryta, 1 part ; sugar of milk, 1 
part. 

2123. Red Light. Is'itrate of strontia, 
12 parts ; chlorate of potassa, 8 parts ; sugar 
of milk, 1 part ; stearine, 2 parts. 

2124. Caution in the Use of Chlorate 
of Potassa. This substance should never 
be kept in admixture with any inflammable 
matter, especially sulphur or phosphorus, as 
they explode with terrific violence by the 
most trivial causes, and not unfrequently spon- 
taneously. All pounding and nibbing must 
be avoided. 

2125. Paper for Producing Flashes 
of Colored Light. Soak unsized paper for 
ten minutes in a mixture of 4 parts, by mea- 
sure, oil of vitriol, and 5 parts strong fuming 
nitric acid ; wash out thoroughly in warm dis- 
tilled water, and dry it thoroughly at a gentle 
heat. The paper thus prepared 'is similar in 
its properties to gun cotton, and a small 
pellet of it, lighted at one point at a flame, 



j and then thrown into the air, will produce a 
j brilliant flash, and leave no perceptible ash. 
I The color is given by saturating the gun-paper 
in the one of the solutions given below, and 
then drying it. 

A solution of chlorate of strontium makes 
the flash a bright crimson. Chlorate of barium, 
green. Xitrate of potassium, violet. Chlor- 
ate of copper, blue. Any one of the foregoing 
chlorates may be prepared by mixing a warm 
solution of the corresponding chloride with an 
equivalent quantity of a warm solution of 
chlorate of potassa; the precipitate formed 
wiU be chloride of potassium, and the clear 
liquid, poured off, will be the desned chlorate, 
to be used for saturating the gun-paper. 

2126. Japanese Matches. Lampblack, 
5 parts ; sulphur, 11 parts ; gunpowder, from 
26 to 30 parts, this last proportion varying 
with the quality of the powder. Grind very 
fine, and make the material into a paste with 
alcohol; form it into dice, with a knife or 
spatula, about k inch square ; let them dry 
rather gradually on a warm mantel-piece, not 
too near a fire. TVTien dry, fix one of the lit- 
tle squares in a small cleft made at the end of 
a stalk of broom-corn. Light the material at 
a candle, hold the stem downward, and await 
the result. After the first blazing off, a ball 
of molten lava will form, from which the 
curious coriTiscations will soon appear. 

2127. Japanese Firework Mixture. 
Finely pulverized nitrate of potassa, 70 parts; 
washed flowers of sulphur, 30 parts; powdered 
lycopodium, 12 parts; best and very light 
lampblack, 8 parts. From li to 2 grains of 
this powder are sufficient for use packed in 
strips of suitable paper. 

2128. Colored Flames. The flame of 
alcohol may be colored by mixing certain salts 
with the spirit. A green color is given by 
mm-iate of copper, or boracio acid. Eed, by 
nitrate of strontian, nitrate of iron, or nitrate 
of lime. Yellow, bv nitrate of soda, &c. 

2129. Greek Fire. True Greek fire is 
simply a solid, highly combustible composi- 
tion, consisting of sulphur and phosphorus 
dissolved in the bisulphide of carbon, to which, 
occasionally some mineral oil is added, with 
the view of increasing its incendiary powers. 
TThen the liquid is thrown on any smface ex- 
posed to the air the solvent evaporates, leav- 
ing a film of the phosphorus or sulphide of 
phosphorus, which then inflames sponta- 
neously. The proper mode of extinguishing 
such a fire is to throw damp sand, ashes, saw- 
dust, lime, or any powder, wet sacking or 
carpeting, in short, any material which will 
exclude the air from the fire. jSTo attempt 
should be made to remove the covering for 
some time after the flame has been extin- 
guished. The place should afterward be thor- 
oughly washed by a powerful jet of water 
forced upon it. 



Explosives. This is a general 
term for all substances which explode 
with violence. Some of these, as gunpowder, 
gun-cotton, &c., explode by being brought 
into contact with fire. Others, to which the 
term of Fulminates is applied, explode with 
violence by slight heat, friction, or concussion. 



EXPLOSIVES. 



207 



2131. Fulminating Antimony. Grind i 
well together 100 parts of dried tartar emetic, ' 
and 3 parts of lampblack, or charcoal powder; 
then take a crucible capable of holding 3 
ounces of water, and having ground its edge 
smooth, and rubbed the inside with powdered 
charcoal, f fill it with the above mixture, i 
cover it with a laj'er of charcoal powder, and j 
lute on the cover. Expose it for 3 hours to 
a strong heat in a reverberatorj furnace, and, j 
when taken out, let it stand to cool for 6 or 7 j 
hours before removing its contents, to prevent | 
an explosion. The crucible being now opened, ' 
the contents must be hastily transfeiTed, with- 1 
out breaking, to a wide-mouthed stoppered j 
phial, when, after some time, it will crumble 
down into a powder of itself. Or : Triturate 
together, very carefully, 100 parts antimony, 
75 parts carbnretted (roasted to blackness) j 
cream of tartar, and 12 parts lampblack ; pre- 
serve it in phials. "When the above processes 
are properly conducted, the resulting powders 
fulminate violently on contact with water. 
It is to the presence of the very inflammable 
metal potassium that they owe this property. 
Anotber compound, made with 60 parts of 
carburetted cream of tartar, 120 bismuth, and 
1 of nitre, treated as above, contains an alloy 
very rich in potassium. A piece the size of a 
Xjea introduced into a mass of gunpowder ex- 
plodes it on being thrown into water. 

2132. Fulminating Gold. Dissolve 
gold in aqua regia (made by dissolving 4 
ounces sal ammoniac in 12 or 16 ounces nitric 
acid), and precipitate with a solution of car- 
bonate of potassa. Fulminating gold should 
be made in very small quantities at a time, to 
avoid risk, as without great care it explodes 
with extreme violence. This is caused by the 
slightest fricti(m or sudden increase of heat. 
Its fulminating property may be destroyed by 
boiliug it in pearlash lye, or oil of vitriol ; 
and by heating the powder after washing it in 
water, pure gold will be obtained. 

2133. Fulminating Silver. Digest ox- 
ide of silver (recently precipitated, and dried 
by pressure between bibulous paper) in con- 
centrated hquor of ammonia for 12 or 15 
hours, pour off the liquid, and cautiously dry 
the black powder in the air. The decanted 
ammonia, when gently heated, yields, on 
cooling, small cr3'stals, which possess a still 
more formidable power of detonation, and 
will scarcely bear touchiug, even while under 
the hquid. "^ This compoimd is exploded by 
the slightest friction or percussion, and should 
therefore be only made in very small quanti- 
ties at a time, and handled with great caution. 
Its explosive powers are tremendous; hi fact, 
it can hardly be handled with safety, even in 
the moist state. Many frightful accidents 
have happened from the spontaneous explo- 
sion of this substance. At most 1 or 2 grains 
can be exploded with safety at one time. 

2134. Fulminating Mercury. Dis- 
solve by a gentle heat 100 parts, by weight, 
of mercury in 100 parts nitric acid of specific 
gravity 1.4; and when the solution has ac- 
quired a temperature of 130° Fahr., slowly 
pour it through a glass funnel tube into 830 
parts alcohol of specific gi'avity .830. As 
soon as the effervescence is over and white 
fumes cease to rise, filter it through double 
paper, wash with cold water, and dry by 



steam (not hotter than 212°) or hot water. 
This is the formula of Dr. Fre, and said to be 
the cheapest and safest. If parts by measure 
be adopted, the above proportions will be, for 
100 parts, b}' measure, of mercury, 740 parts 
nitric acid, and 830 parts alcohol. 

2135. Fulminating Copper. Digest 
copper, in powder or filings, with fulminate of 
mercury or of silver, and a little water. It 
forms soluble green crystals that explode with 
a green flame. 

2136. Fulminating Powder. Powder 
sepamtelj/ 3 parts nitre, 2 parts dry (see No. 
2065) carbonate of potash, and 1 flowers of 
sulphur ; mix them together carefully. If 20 
grains of this compound are slowly heated on 
a shovel over the Are, it melts and becomes 
brown, exploding with a loud report. 

2137. New Explosive Compound. 
B. G. Amend has observed that gl3'cerine 
mixed with crystallized permanganate of potas- 
sa in a mortar spontaneonslj- deflagrates. 

2138. Priming for Percussion Caps. 
To make this compound 100 grains of fulmin- 
ating mercury are triturated with a wooden 
muller on marble, with 30 grains of water and 
60 grains of gunpowder. This is sufficient for 
400 caps. Dr. TJre recommends a solution of 
gum mastich in tui-pentine as a medium for 
attaching the fulminate to the cap. 

2139. Percussion Pellets. Mix equal 
parts of the chlorate of potassa and sulphuret 
of antimony with liquid gum, so as to form a 
paste. AVTien dry it may be foiTued into pel- 
lets, and used as percussion powder for guns. 
This composition, placed on the ends ofsphnts 
dipped in sulphur, produces friction matches. 
This mixture may also be employed for per- 
cussion caps, only without the gum ; the two 
substances, mixed together dry, are forced 
into the caps, and a drop of varnish deposited 
on the inside surface of each. A mixture of 
the fulminate of mercury, chlorate of potassa, 
and sulphur, however, is more commonly 
used for hning percussion caps. 

2140. To Make Gunpowder. Pulver- 
ize separately, 76 parts nitrate of potassa, 11 
sulphur, and 13 freshly burned charcoal, and 
mix them with a little water, so as to foinn a 
cake when rolled out on a board. This is then 
dried on a clean sheet of paper placed in a 
warm situation, and afterwards crumbled into 
grains. It will form nn glazed gunpowder. 
The pulverized ingi-edients, thoroughly mixed, 
without the addition of any water, constitute 
what is called meal jyowder ; this may also be 
made by pulverizing grained gunpowder very 
cautiously in a mortar, or vdth a muller. 
(See Porpluirization, No. 25.) 

2141. To Prepare Gim-Cotton. The 
simplest way consists in immersing, for a few 
seconds, well-carded cotton in a mixture of 
equal parts, by volume, of oil of vitriol of 
specific gravity 1.845, and nitric acid of spe- 
cific gravity of 1.500. The cotton, when well 
saturated, is to be removed and squeezed to 
repel the excess of acid, and then well wash- 
ed in clean cold water, until the water no 
longer reddens litmus paper. It is then dried 
at a heat not exceeding 212°. A lower tem- 
perature is stni safer. The cotton thus pre- 
pared explodes well, but does not dissolve 
easdy in ether. Under Collodion will be 
found other preparations of Gun-Cotton. 



^08 



CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES. 



2142. Nitro-glycerine. This is an oily, j 
coloiiess liquid, with a specific gravity of 1.60. 1 
It has no smell, but a taste which at first is 1 
sweet, but soon becomes pungent, like pepper, | 
is soluble in ether and methylic alcohol, but 
not in water, but the presence of water di- 
minishes the risk of explosion. It begins to 
evaporate at 365° Fahr. It has been found 
that pure nitro-glycerine, dropped upon a thor- 
oughly red hot iron, assumes a spheroidal state j 
and flashes off into vapor in the same way as 
gunpowder; but if the iron is not red hot, 
only hot enough to cause the nitro-glycerine 
to boil suddenly^ a frightful explosion takes 
place. The explosion of a single drop in this 
manner will cause serious damage. This dan- 
gerous compound requires most careful hand- 
ling, a slight shock sometimes exploding it. 

2143. To Prepare Nitro-glycerine. 
Mix 100 parts fuming nitric acid at 50° Baume 
with 200 parts sulphmic acid; when cool, add 
38 parts glycerine slowly, allowing it to 
trickle down the sides of the vessel. The 
glycerine will remain on the surface for hours 
without mixing. Stir the glycerine and acids 
with a glass rod for 10 seconds, pour it into 
20 times its volume of water, and the nitro- 
glycerine will be instantly precipitated to the 
extent of 76 parts, or double the amount of 
glycerine employed. It must be repeatedly 
washed with water, and then saturated with 
bicarbonate of soda or lime. 

2144. Blasting Powders. Neither 
fresh nor salt water has any injurious effect 
on blasting powders; they need only to be 
di*ied to regain their explosive character. 
Their emitting but little smoke renders them 
useful in underground operations, and their 
explosive force is eight times that of gun- 
powder. They explode with extreme facility, 
either by contact with a strong acid, a shght 
elevation of temperature, or the slightest fric- 
tion. In preparing them, therefore, excessive 
precaution is necessary, especially in mixing 
the ingredients. A straw, slightly wetted 
with oil of vitriol, applied to a small heap of the 
powder, will cause instantaneous explosion. 

2145. To Make Blasting Powder. 
Reduce separatehj to powder, 2 parts chlorate 
of potassa and 1 part redsulphuret of arsenic; 
mix very lightly together. Or: — Powder 
separately, 5 parts chlorate of potassa, 2 parts 
red sulphuret of arsenic, and 1 part ferrocyan- 
ide of potassium (prussiate of potassa) ; mix 
carefully. Or: — Mix carefully, as before, 
after having separately reduced to powder, 
equal parts chlorate of potassa and fen-ocyanide 
of potassium. 

2146. Parlor or Congreve Matches. 
Dissolve 16 parts gum-arabic in the least pos- 
sible quantity of water, and mix with it 9 
parts phosphorus in powder {see No. 4338) ; 
then add 14 parts nitre (saltpetre), and 16 
parts of either vermilion (red sulphuret of 
mercury), or binoxide (black oxide) of man- 
ganese, and form the whole into a paste. Dip 
the matches into this paste, and then let them 
dry. When quite dry they are to be dipped 
into a very dilute copal or lac varnish, and 
again dried; by this means they are less likely 
to suffer from damp weather. 

2147. Cheap Parlor Matches. A 
rheaper paste for dipping may be made by 
'"^jakiug 6 parts glue for 24 hours in a little 



water, and liquefied by rubbing in a heated 
mortar; 4 parts phosphorus are next added 
at a heat not exceeding 150° Fahr.; then add 
10 parts finely powdered saltpetre ; and lastly 
5 parts red lead and 2 parts smalts are mixed 
in, the whole being formed into a unifoim 
paste. The matches are dipped, dried, var- 
nished, and dried again, as before. 

2148. To Make Matches Without 
Sulphur. To obviate the use of sulphur for 
igniting the wood of the match, the ends of 
the matches are first slightly chaiTed by rub- 
bing them against a red hot iron plate, and 
then dipped into as much white wax, melted 
in a suitable vessel, as will cover the bottom 
about \ inch in depth. Or they may be 
dipped into camphorated spirit. Or into a 
solution of 1 ounce Yenice turpentine and i 
ounce camphor, in ^ pint oil of turpentine, 
with a little gum-benzoin and cascarilla by 
way of perfmne. After any of the above 
preparations the matches are ready for dip- 
ping in the phosphorus paste. 

2149. Substitute for Lucifer Matches. 
The dangers arising from the universal adop- 
tion of the common Inciter match have in- 
duced chemists to seek a substitute for it. M. 
Peltzer has recently proposed a compound 
which is obtained in the shape of a violet 
powder, by mixing together equal volumes of 
solutions of sulphate of copper, one of which 
is supersatm-ated with ammonia, and the 
other with hyposulphite of soda. A mixture 
of chlorate of potash and the above powder 
will catch fire by percussion or rubbing; it 
bums like gunpowder, and leaves a black 
residue. M. Yiederbold proposes a mixture 
of hyposulphite of lead, or baryta, or chlorate 
of potash, for matches without phosphoras. 
The only inconvenience of this compound is 
that it attracts moisture too easily. 

2150. Mixtures for Matches. For 
sulphur dips : Phosphorus, 3 parts ; glue, 6 
parts ; sand, 1 part ; incorporated below 100° 
Fahr., with 10 parts of water. Or, phospho- 
rus, 5 parts ; fine sand, 4 parts ; red ochre, 1 
part (or, ultramarine), i part; gum-arabic, 5 
parts, in 6 pints of water (or, 4 parts of glue 
in 9 parts of water). For steaiine dips : Phos- 
phorus, 3 parts; brown oxide of lead, 2 parts; 
turpentine, -J part, softened in 3 parts water. 
Instead of the brown oxide, 2 parts of red 
lead stirred up with i part of nitric acid may 
be used. 



Cements and Uniting 
Bodies, lu the preparation of ce- 
ments and all substances intended to produce 
close adhesion, whether in a semi-fluid or 
pasty state, freedom from dirt and grease is a 
most essential and necessary condition. Quite 
as much depends upon the manner in which a 
cement is applied as upon the cement itself. 
The best cement that ever was compounded 
would prove entirely worthless if improperly 
api)lied. The preparations given below will 
be found to answer every reasonable demand; 
and if properly prepared and used strictly ac- 
cording to the directions laid down, will sel- 
dom fail to form a union as strong, if not 
stronger than the substances joined. The 
first point that demands attention, is to bring 



CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES 



209 



the cement itself into intimate contact with 
the surface to be -anitecl. This end is best 
reached, when using hot cements, by making 
the edges to be joined at least as hot as the 
cement when applied, or as nearly so as can 
be done without injury to the substance ; in 
some cases it is even preferable to melt the 
cement on the heated edges. Another very 
important point is to use as little cement as 
possible. When the surfaces are separated by 
a large mass of cement, we have to depend 
upon the strength of the cement itself, and 
not upon its adhesion to the surfaces which it 
is used to join; and, in general, cements are 
comparatively brittle. Sealing-wax is a very 
good agent for uniting mefcal to glass or stone, 
provided the masses to be united are made so 
hot as to fuse the cement; but if the cement 
is applied to them while they are cold, it will 
not stick at all. This fact is well known to 
venders of cement for uniting earthenware. 
By heating two pieces, so that they will fuse 
shellac, they are able to join them so that 
they will rather break at any other part than 
along the line of union. But although people 
constantly see the operation performed, and 
buy liberally of the cement, it will be found 
in nine cases out of ten the cement proves 
worthless in their hands, simply because they 
do not know how to use it. They are afraid 
to heat a delicate glass or porcelain vessel to 
a sufficient degree, and they are apt to use too 
much of the material, and the result is a fail- 
ure ; the cement is consequently deemed 
good for nothing. The great obstacles to the 
junction of any two surfaces are air and dirt. 
The former is universally present, the latter is 
due to accident or carelessness. All surfaces 
are covered with a thin adhering layer of air 
which it is difficult to remove, and unless this 
is displaced, the cement cannot adhere to the 
surface to which it is applied, simply because 
it cannot come into contact with it. The 
most efficient agent in displacing this adher- 
ing air is heat. Metals warmed to a point a 
little above 200° become instantly and com- 
pletely wet when immersed in water. Hence, 
for cements that are used in a fused condition, 
heat is the most efficient means of bring- 
ing them in contact with the surfaces to 
which they are to be applied. In the case of 
glue, the adhesion is best attained by moder- 
ate pressure and friction. 

2152. Armenian or Jeweler's Ce- 
ment. The following is a receipt for a 
strong cement used by some oriental nations, 
for the purpose of attaching precious stones 
to metallic surfaces : Take 6 pieces of gum 
mastic, the size of a pea, and dissolve them 
in the smallest possible quantity of 95 per 
cent, alcohol. Soften some isinglass in wa- 
ter (though none of the water must be used), 
and saturate strong brandy with it till you 
have 2 ounces of glue ; then rub in 2 small 
pieces of gum ammoniac. Mix the two pre- 

Earations at a heat. Keep well stoppered, 
et the bottle in hot water before using. It 
is said by the Turks that this preparation will 
unite two metallic surfaces, even of polished 
steel. 

2153. Keller's Armeniaji Cement for 
Glass, China, &c. Soak 2 drachms cut 
isinglass in 2 ounces water for 24 hours; boil 
down to 1 ounce ; add 1 ounce spirit of wine. 



and strain through linen. Mix this, while hot, 
with a solution of 1 drachm mastic in 1 ounce 
rectified spirit, and triturate thoroughly with 
■^ drachm powdered gum ammoniac. 

2154. lire's Diamond Cement. Take 
1 ounce isinglass and G ounces distilled water; 
boil down to 3 ounces ; add l\ ounces recti- 
fied spirit. Boil for 2 minutes, strain, and 
add, while hot, k ounce of a milky emulsion 
of ammoniac, and 5 drachms tincture of gum 
mastic. 

2155. Chinese Cement. Take of or- 
ange shellac, brmsed, 4 ounces ; highly recti- 
fied spirit of wine, 3 ounces. Set the mixture 
in a warm place, frequently shaking it till the 
shellac is dissolved. "Wood naphtha may be 
substituted for the spirit of wine, but the un- 
pleasant smell of the naphtha is some objec- 
tion. 

2156. To Mend Broken Glass. A 
much better process for mending broken 
glass, china and earthenware with shellac, 
than heating them, is to dissolve the shellac 
in alcohol to about the consistence of molasses, 
and with a thin splinter of wood or pencil- 
brush touch the edges of the broken ware. In 
a short time it sets without any heating, which 
is often inconvenient. It will stand every 
contingency but a heat equal to boiling 
water. 

2157. To Mend Crockery Ware. 
One of the strongest cements and easiest ap- 
plied for this purpose is lime and the white 
of an egg. To use it, take a sufficient quan- 
tity of the egg to mend one article at a time,, 
shave off a quantity of lime, and mix thor- 
oughly. Apply quickly to the edges and 
place firmly together, when it will very soon, 
become set and strong. Mix but a small 
quantity at once, as it hardens very soon, so 
that it cannot be used. Calcined plaster of 
Paris would answer the same purpose. 

2158. Badigeon. A cement used by 
operatives and artists to fill up holes and 
cover defects in their work. Statuaries use a 
mixture of plaster and free-stone for this pur- 
pose ; cai-penters, a mixture of sawdust and 
glue, or of whiting and glue ; coopers use a 
mixture of tallow and chalk. The same 
name is given to a stone colored mixture used 
for the fronts of houses, and said to be com- 
posed of wood-dust and lime slacked together, 
stone-powder, and a little umber or sienna, 
mixed up with alum water to the consistence 
of paint. 

2159. Japanese Cement. Intimately 
mix the best powdered rice with a little cold 
water, then gradually add boiling water until 
a proper consistence is acquired, being par- 
ticularly careful to keep it well stirred all the 
time ; lastly, it must be boiled for one minute 
in a clean sauce-pan or earthen pipkin. This 
glue is beautifully white and almost transpar- 
ent, for which reason it is well adapted for 
fancy paper work, which requires a strong 
and colorless cement. 

2160. Curd Cement. Add i pint vine- 
gar to ^ pint skimmed milk. Mix the curd 
with the whites of 5 eggs well beaten, and 
sufficient powdered quick-Hme sifted in with 
constant stirring, so as to form a paste. It 
resists water, and a moderate degree of heat, 
and is useful for joining small pieces of marble 
or alabaster. 



^10 



CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES. 



2161. To Make a Cement that will 
Resist Benzine and Petroleum. It lias 
quite recently been discovered tliat gelatine 
mixed with glycerine yields a compound li- 
quid when hot, but which solidifies on cooling, 
and forms a tough, elastic substance, having 
much the appearance and characteristics of 
India rubber. The two substances united 
form a mixture entirely and absolutely insol- 
uble in petroleum or benzine, and the great 
problem of making casks impervious to these 
fluids is at once solved by brushing or paint- 
ing them on the inside with the comiDound. 
This is also used for printers' ro-Hers and for 
buffers of stamps, as benzine or petroleum 
will clean them when dh'ty in the most perfect 
manner and in an incredibly short space of 
time. Water must not be used with this com- 
pound. 

2162. Cement to Resist Petroleum. 
A cement peculiarly adapted to stand petro- 
leum or any of its distillates is made by boil- 
ing 3 parts resin with 1 caustic soda and 5 
water. This forms a resin soap which is after- 
ward mixed with half its weight of plaster of 
Paris, zinc white, white lead, or precipitated 
<chalk. The plaster hardens in about 40 min- 
utes. 

2163. Cement for Aquaria. Mix 3 
pounds well dried Venetian red (finely pow- 
dered) with 1 pound oxide of iron, and add as 
much boiling oil as will reduce it to a stiff 
paste. 

2164. Cement for Marine Aquaria. 
Take 10 parts by measure litharge, 10 parts 
plaster of Paris, 10 parts dry white sand, 1 
part finely powdered resin, and mix them, 
when wanted for use, into a pretty stiff putty 
with boiled linseed oil. This will stick to 
wood, stone, metal, or glass, and hardens 
under water. It is also good for marine aqua- 
ria, as it resists the action of salt water. It is 
better not to use the tank until 3 days after it 
has been cemented. 

2165. Water Cement. Manganese is 
found to be a valuable ingredient in water ce- 
ments. 4 parts gray clay are to be mixed 
with 6 parts black oxide of manganese, and 
about 90 parts good lime stone reduced to 
fine powder, the whole to be calcined to expel 
the carbonic acid; when well calcined and 
cooled, to be worked into the consistence of 
a stiff paste, with 60 parts washed sand. 

2166. Cement for Glass Syringes. 
Take pitch, 2 parts; gutta percha, 1 part; 
melt together over a slow fire, apply hot, and 
trim with a hot knife. 

2167. duickly-Setting Rust Joint 
Cement. Make into a paste with water 1 
part by weight sal ammoniac in powder, 2 
parts flower of sulphur, and 80 parts iron 
borings. 

2168. Slowly-Setting Rust Joint Ce- 
ment. Make into a paste with water, 2 parts 
sal ammoniac, 1 part flower of sulphur, and 
200 parts iron borings. This cement is better 
than the last if the joint is not required for 
immediate use. 

2169. Red Lead Cement for Face 
Joints. Mix 1 part each white and red lead 
with linseed oil to the proper consistence. 

2170. Singer's Cement for Electrical 
Machines and Galvanic Troughs. Melt 
together 5 pounds resin^ and 1 pound bees' 



wax, and stir in 1 pound red ochre (highly 
dried, and still warm), with 4 ounces Paris 
plaster, continuing the heat a httle above 212^^ 
and stirring constantly till all frothing ceases. 
Or, (for troughs), resin, 6 pounds ; dried red 
ochre, 1 pound; calcined plaster of Paris, i 
pound ; linseed oil, J pound. 

2171. Cement for Rooms. M. Sarel, 
of Paris, has made an invention which is pro- 
nounced better than plaster of Paris for coat- 
ing the walls and ceilings of rooms. A coat 
of oxide of zinc, mixed with size, made up 
like a wash, is first laid on, and over that a 
coat of chloride of zinc applied, prepared in 
the same way as the first wash. The oxide 
and chloride effect an immediate combination, 
and form a kind of cement, smooth and pol- 
ished as glass, and possessing the advantages 
of oil paint without its disadvantages of smeU. 

2172. Coppersmith's or Blood Ce- 
ment. BuUock's blood thickened with finely 
powdered quicklime makes a good cement to 
secure the edges and rivets of copper boilers, 
to mend leaks from joints, &c. It must be 
used as soon as mixed, as it rapidly gets hard. 
It is extremely cheap and very durable, and 
is suited for many purposes where a strong 
cement is required"^. 

2173. Pew's Composition for Cover- 
ing Buildings. Take the hardest and purest 
limestone (white marble is to be preferred), 
free from sand, clay, or other matter ; calcine 
it in a reverberatory furnace, pulverize, and 
pass it through a sieve. 1 part, by weight, is 
to be mixed with 2 parts clay well baked and 
similarly pulverized, conducting the whole 
operation with great care. This forms the 
first powder. The second is to be made of 1 
part calcined and pulverized gypsum, to 
which is added 2 parts clay, baked and pul- 
verized. These two powders are to be com- 
bined, and intimately incorporated, so as to 
form a perfect mixture. When it is to be 
used, mix it with about a fourth part of its 
weight of water, added gradually, stirring the 
mass weU the whole time, until it forms a 
thick paste, in which state it is to be spread 
like mortar upon the deshed surface. It be- 
comes in time as hard as stone, allows no 
moisture to penetrate, and is not cracked by 
heat. When well prepared it will last any 
length of time. When in its plastic or soft 
state, it may be colored of any desired tint. 

2174. Hard Hydraulic Cement. A 
cement which is said to have been used with 
great success in covering terraces, lining ba- 
sins, cementing stones, etc., resisting the fil- 
tration of water, and so hard that it scratches 
iron, is formed of 63 parts weU-burned brick, 
and 7 parts litharge, pulverized and moistened 
with hnseed oil. Moisten the surfaces to 
which it is to be applied. 

2175. Universal Cement. Dissolve 2 
ounces mastic in just enough 95 per cent, al- 
cohol to effect a solution. Then soak 2 
ounces isinglass, or fish-glue until it is thor- 
oughly softened. Dissolve the isinglass in 
proof spmts sufficient to form a strong glue, 
and then add 1 ounce finely pulverized gum am- 
moniac. Warm the two mixtures together 
over a slow fire, and when they are thorough- 
ly mixed, bottle and hermetically seal them. 
This cement becomes perfectly dry in 12 or 
15 hours. When the cement is to be used, 



CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES. 



211 



the bottle should be heated iu a water bath to 
liquefy it; the fragments to be cemented 
should also be heated before joining them, 
and, as a matter of course, the surfaces well 
cleaned. Glass, crockery, &c., restored by 
the above cement, are as solid as before hav- 
ing been mended, and the seams are scarcely 
visible. 

2176. To Cement Amber. Amber is 
', )ined or mended by smearing the surfaces 
with boiled linseed oil, and strongly pressing 
them together, at the same time holding them 
over a charcoal fire or heating them in any 
other way that will not injure the amber. 

2177. To Cement Alabaster and Plas- 
ter. Ornaments of alabaster or plaster may 
be joined together by means of a little white 
of egg, thickened with finely-powdered quick- 
lime, or by a mixture of newly-baked and 
finely-powdered plaster of Paris, mixed up 
with the least possible quantity" of water. 

2178. Mending Plaster"^ Models. Wax 
and resin, or shellac varnish, is recommended 
for the above purpose. Dr. Chaim suggests 
the use of liquid silex. "Wet the two surfaces 
with it, and allow a few moments to dry. It 
will be found very useful in cases of accident 
to a cast. 

2179. Waterproof Mastic Cement. 
Mix together 1 part red lead to 5 parts ground 
lime, and 5 parts sharp sand, with boiled oil. 
Or : 1 part red lead to 5 whiting and 10 sharp 
sand mixed with boiled oil. 

2180. Marble Workers' Cement. 
Flower of sulphur, 1 part ; hydrochlorate of 
ammonia, 2 parts ; iron fihngs, 16 parts. The 
above substances must be reduced to a pow- 
der, and securely preserved in closely stop- 
ped vessels. "When the cement is to be em- 
ployed, take 20 parts very line iron filings, 
add 1 part of the above powder, mix them 
together with enough water to form a man- 
ageable paste. This paste solidifies in 20 
days and becomes as hard as iron. 

2181. Masons' Cement for Coating 
the Insides of Cisterns. Take equal parts 
of quicklime, pulverized baked bricks, and 
wood ashes. Thoroughly mix the above sub- 
stances, and dilute with sufficient olive oil to 
form a manageable paste. This cement imme- 
diately hardens in the air, and never cracks 
beneath the water. 

2182. Colored Cements. Professor 
Boettger prepares cement of different colors 
and great hardness by mixing various bases 
with soluble glass. Soluble soda glass of 33° 
Baume is to be thoroughly stirred and mixed 
"with fine chalk, and the coloring matter {see 
12 following recei2)ts) well incorporated. In 
the course of 6 or 8 hours a hard cement will 
set, which is capable of a great variety of 
uses. As soluble glass can be kept on hand 
in liquid form, and the chalk and coloring 
matters are permanent and cheap, the colored 
cements can be readily prepared when wanted, 
and the material can be kept in stock, ready 
for use, at but little expense. Boettger re- 
commends the following coloring matters : 

2183. Black Cement. Well sifted sul- 
phide of antimony, mixed with soluble glass 
and chalk (see No. 2182), gives a black mass, 
which, after solidifying, can be polished or 
burnished with agate, and then possesses a 
fine metallic lustre. 



2184. Grey-Black Cement. Fine iron 
dust, mixed as in No. 2182, gives a grey-black 
cement. 

2185. Grey Cement. Zinc dust. This, 
used as in ¥o. 2182, makes a grey mass, ex- 
ceedingly hard, which, on polishing, exhibits 
a brilliant metallic lustre of zinc, so that 
broken or defective zinc castings may be 
mended and restored by a cement that might 
be called a cold zinc casting. It adheres firm- 
ly to metal, stone, and wood. 

2186. Bright Green Cement. Carbon- 
ate of copper, used according to N^o. 2182, 
gives a bright green cement. 

2187. Dark Green Cement. Sesqui- 
oxide of chromium, mixed as in No. 2182, 
gives a dark green cement. 

2188. Blue Cement. Th^nard's blue, 
used as in ISTo. 2182, makes a blue cement. 

2189. Yellow Cement. Litharge, with 
soluble glass, &c., see ]S'"o. 2182, gives a yel- 
low cement. 

2190. Bright Red Cement. Cinnabar, 
used as directed in JSTo. 2182, makes a bright 
red cement. 

2191. Violet Red Cement. Carmine, 
used as iuaSTo. 2182, yields a violet red cement. 

2192. White Cement. The soluble 
glass with fine chalk alone (see No. 2182) 
gives a white cement of great beauty and 
hardness. 

2193. Black Cement. Sulphide of an- 
timony and iron dust, in equal proportions, 
stirred in with soluble glass (see No. 2182), 
afi'ord an exceedingly firm black cement. 

2194. Dark Grey Cement. Zinc dust 
and iron in equal proportions, used as in No. 
2182, yield a hard dark grey cement. 

2195. Portland Cement. Portland ce- 
ment is formed of clay and limestone, gener- 
ally containing some silica, the properties of 
which may vary without injury to the ce- 
ment. The proportion of clay may also vary 
from 19 to 25 per cent, withoat detriment. 
The only necessary condition for the forma- 
tion of a good artificial Portland cement, is 
an intimate and homogeneous mixture of car- 
bonate of lime and clay, the proportion of 
clay being as above stated. The materials 
are raised to a white heat in kilns of the prop- 
er foi-m, so that they are almost vitrified. 
After the calcination all pulverulent and scor- 
ified portions are carefully pricked out and 
thrown away. The remainder is then finely 
ground and becomes ready for use. The 
amount of water which enters into combina- 
tion with it in mixing is about .366 by weight. 
It sets slowly, from 12 to 18 hours being re- 
quired. Made into a thin solution like 
whitewash, this cement gives woodwork all 
the appearance of having been painted and 
sanded. Piles of stone may be set together 
with common mortar, and then the whole 
washed over with this cement, making it look 
like one immense rock of grey sandstone. 
For temporary use a flour-barrel may have 
the hoops nailed, and the inside washed with 
a little Portland cement, and it will do for a 
year or more to hold water. Boards nailed 
together, and washed with it, make good hot- 
water tanks. Its water-resisting properties 
make it useful for a variety of pur|)oses. 

2196. Mastic Cements, or Pierre Ar- 
tificielle. Boettger says that these cements 



212 



CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES. 



are mixtures of 100 parts each of sand, lime- 
stone, and litharge, with 7 parts linseed oil. 
These ingredients, carefully mixed and well 
worked together, will have the consistency of 
moist sand, and at first but little coherence. 
"When pressed, however, the mixture gradual- 
ly acquu-es the hardness of ordinary sand- 
stone, and in six months time will emit sparks 
when struck with steel. The binding agents 
in such cements are the litharge and oil, the 
sand giving the body, and limestone or chalk 
filling up the interstices. 

2197. Coarse Stuff for Plastering. 
Coarse stuff", or lime and hair, as it is some- 
times called, is prepared in the same way as 
common mortar, with the addition of hair 
procured from the tanner, which must be well 
mixed with the mortar by means of a three- 
pronged rake, until the hair is equally dis- 
tributed throughout the composition. The 
mortar should be first formed, and when the 
lime and sand have been thoroughly mixed, 
the hair should be added by degrees, and the 
whole so thoroughly united that the hair shall 
appear to be equally distributed throughout. 

2198. Fine Stuff for Plastering. This 
is made by slacking lime with a small portion 
of water, after which sufficient water is added 
to give it the consistence of cream. It is 
then allowed to settle for some time, and the 
superfluous water is poured off, and the sedi- 
ment suff'ered to remain till evaporation re- 
duces it to a proper thickness for use. For 
some kinds of work it is necessary to add a 
small portion of hair. 

2199. Stucco for Inside of Walls. 
This stucco consists of 3 parts fine stuff {see 
No. 2198) and 1 part fine washed sand. Those 
parts of interior walls which are intended to 
be painted are finished with this stucco. In 
using this material, great care must be taken 
that the surface he perfectly level, and to 
secure this it must be well worked with a 
floating tool or wooden trowel. This is done 
by sprinkling a little water occasionally on 
the stucco, and rubbing it in a circular direction 
with the float, till the surface has attained a 
high gloss. The durability of the work much 
depends upon how it is done, for if not 
thoroughly worked it is apt to crack. 

2200. Gauge Stuff. This is chiefly 
used for mouldings and cornices which are 
run or formed with a wooden mould. It con-- 
sists of about ^ plaster of Paris, mixed grad- 
ually with i- fine stuff. {See No. 2198.) 
When the work is required to set very expe- 
ditiously, the proportion of plaster of Paris is 
increased. It is often necessary that the 
plaster to be used should have the property 
of setting immediately it is laid on, and in ail 
such cases gauge stuff is used, and conse- 
quently it is extensively employed for cement- 
ing ornaments to walls or ceilings, as weU as 
for casting the ornaments themselves. 

2201. Higgins' Stucco. To 15 pounds 
best stone lime add 14 pounds bone ashes, 
finely powdered, and about 95 pounds clean, 
washed sand, quite dry, either coarse or fine, 
according to the nature of the work in hand. 
These ingredients must be intimately mixed, 
and kept from the air till wanted. When re- 
quired for use, it must be mixed up into a 
proper consistence for working with Hme wa- 
ter, and used as speedily as possible. 



2202. Durable Composition lor Or^ 

naments. This is frequently used, instead 
of plaster of Paris, for the ornamental parts of 
buildings, as it is more durable, and becomes 
in time as hard as stone itself. It is of great 
use in the execution of the decorative parts 
of architecture, and also in the finishings of 
picture frames, being a cheaper method than 
carving, by nearly 80 per cent. It is made as 
follows: 2 pounds best whitening, 1 pound glue, 
and 5 pound linseed oil are heated tegether, 
the composition being contuiually stirred until 
the different substances are thoroughly incor- 
porated. Let the compound cool, and then lay 
it on a stone covered with powdered whiten- 
ing, and heat it well until it becomes of a 
tough and firm consistence. It may then be 
put by for use, covered with wet cloths to 
keep it fresh. "When wanted for use it must 
be cut into pieces adapted to the size of the 
mould, into which it is forced by a screw 
press. The ornament, or cornice, is fixed to 
the frame or wall with glue, or with white 
lead. 

2203. Roman Cement. Calcine 3 parts 
of any ordinary clay, and mix it with 2 parts 
lime ; grind it to powder, and calcine again. 
This makes a beautiful cement, improperly 
called Roman, since the preparation was en- 
tirely unknown to the Romans. 

2204. New Plastic Material. A beau- 
tiful plastic substance can be prepared by 
mixing collodion with phosphate of lime. 
The phosphate should be pure, or the color of 
the compound will be unsatisfactory. On 
setting, the mass is found to be hard and sus- 
ceptible of a very fine polish. The material 
can be used extensively, applied in modes that 
will suggest themselves to any intelligent 
artist, to high class decoration. 

2205. Concrete. A compact mass, 
composed of pebbles, lime, and sand, em- 
ployed in the foundations of buildings. The 
best proportions are 60 parts of coarse pebbles, 
25 of rough sand, and 15 of lime ; others re- 
commend 80 parts pebbles, 40 parts river sand, 
and only 10 parts lime. The pebbles should 
not exceed about k pound each in weight. 
Abbe Moigno, in his valuable scientific journal, 
"Les Mondes,'^ relates his personal experience 
with a concrete formed of fine wrought and 
cast iron filings and Portland cement. The 
Abbe states that a cement made thus is hard 
enough to resist any attempts to fracture it. 
As he states that the iron filings are to replace 
the sand usually put into the mixture, we 
presume that the relative quantities are to be 
similar. 

2206. Concrete Floors and Walks. 
Compost for barn and kitchen floors : — After 
the ground on which the floor is intended to 
be made is leveled, let it be covered to the 
thickness of 3 or 4 inches with stones, broken 
small, and well rammed down; upon which 
let there be run, about li inches above the 
stones, 1 part by measure calcined ferruginous 
marl, ana 2 parts coarse sand and fine gravel, 
mixed to a thin consistence with water. Be- 
fore this coating has become thoroughly set, 
lay upon it a coat of calcined marl, mixed 
with an equal part of fine sand, 1 to I5 inches 
thick, leveled to an even surface. The addi- 
tion of blood will render this compost harder. 
The calcined marl mentioned above is the 



CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES. 



213 



Portland cement of commerce. {See No. 
2195.) 

2207. Concrete Gravel "Walk. Dig 

away the earth to the depth of about 5 inches, 
then lay a bottom of pebbles, ramming them 
well down with a paving rammer. Sweep 
them off as clean as possible with a broom, 
and cover the surface thinly with hot coal tar. 
ifow put on a coat of smaller gravel (the first 
bed of pebbles should be as large as goose 
eggs), previously dipped in hot coal tar, 
drained, and rolled in coal ashes, with an 
intermixture of fine gravel, and roll it down 
as thoroughly as possible. Let the roller run 
slowly, and let a boy follow it with a hoe to 
scrape off all adhering gravel. IN'ext put on a 
coat of fine gi'avel or sand, and coal tar, with 
some coal ashes, to complete the surface, and 
roll again as thoroughly as possible; the 
more rolling the better. It will take some 
weeks to harden, but makes a splendid hard 
surface which sheds water like a roof. Do 
not use too much tar. It is only necessary 
to use enough to make the ingredients cohere 
under pressure, and a little is better than too 
much. Such a surface will last in a farmyard 
a great while. 

2208. Cheap Concrete Flooring. Mix 
3 bushels coal ashes from a blacksmith's shop 
with 2 bushels gas lime, and then add suffi- 
cient gas tar to make a stiff mortar. If the 
ammoniacal liquor has been separated from the 
tar, its place must be supplied by adding wa- 
ter till the tar is thin enough for use. For 
stables and cattle sheds, the mortar can be 
laid down with a spade, and fine sharp sand 
or gravel sifted over it ; then roll well, and 
you will have a good concrete floor. It will 
take a few days to get thoroughly hard, even 
in dry weather ; but it will be a good piece of 
work, if carefully done. Autumn is the best 
time for laying this kind of pavement. 

2209. Keene's Marble Cement. This 
is made of baked gypsum or plaster of Paris, 
steeped in a saturated solution of alum, and 
then recalcined and reduced to powder. For 
use, it is mixed with water, as ordinary 
plaster of Paris. This cement has been most 
extensively applied as a stucco ; but the finer 
qualities (when colored by the simple process 
of infusing mineral colors in the water with 
which the cement powder is fijially mixed for 
working), being susceptible of a high degree 
of polish, produce beautiful imitations of 
mosaic, and other inlaid marbles, scagliola, 
<fec. The cement is not adapted to hydraulic 
purposes, nor for exposm-e to the weather, but 
has been used as a stucco for internal decora- 
tions, and fi'om its extreme hardness is very 
durable. A pleasing tint is given to this 
cement by adding a little solution of green 
copperas to the alum liquor. 

2210. Parker's Cement. This valuable 
cement is made of the nodules of indurated and 
slightly feiTuginous marl, called by mineral- 
ogists septaria, and also of some other species 
of argillaceous limestone. These are burned in 
conical kibis, with pit coal, in a similar way 
to other limestone, care being taken to avoid 
the use of too much heat, as, if the pieces un- 
dergo the slightest degree of fusion, even on 
the surface, they will be unfit to form the 
cement. After being properly roasted, the 
calx is reduced to a very fine powder by 



grinding, and immediately packed in baiTels, 
to keep it from the air and moisture. It is 
tempered with water to a proper consistence, 
and applied at once, as it soon hardens, and 
will not bear being again softened down with 
water. For foundations and cornices exposed 
to the weather, it is usually mixed with an 
equal quantity of clean angular sand ; for use 
as a common mortar, with about twice as 
much sand ; for coating walls exposed to cold 
and wet, the common proportions are 3 of 
sand to 2 of cement, and for walls exposed to 
extreme dryness or heat, about 21 or 3 of sand 
to 1 of cement; for facing cistern work, water 
frontages, <fec., nothing but cement and water 
should be employed. This cement, under the 
name of compo, or Eoman cement, is much 
employed for facing houses, water-cistems, 
setting the foundations of large edifices, <fec. 
It is perhaps the best of all cements for 
stucco. 

2211. Pollack's Cement for Iron and 
Stone. This cement takes some little time 
to dry, but turns almost as hard as stone, and 
is fire and water-proof. For mending cracks 
in stone or cast-iron ware, where iron filings 
cannot be had, it is invaluable. Take litharge 
and red lead, equal parts, mix thoroughly and 
make into a paste with concentrated glycerine 
to the consistency of soft putty ; fill the crack 
and smear a thin layer on both sides of the 
casting so as to completely cover the fracture. 
This layer can be rubbed off if necessary when 
nearly dry by an old knife or chisel. M. 
Pollack has used it to fasten the different 
portions of a fly-wheel with great success; 
while, when placed between stones, and once 
hardened, it is easier to break the stone than 
the joint. 

2212. Cement from Furnace Slag. 
Furnace slag can be made to furnish an excel- 
lent cement by selecting such portions of it as 
are readily dissolved in dilute hydrochloric 
acid. On subjecting it to the action of the 
acid, silica is thrown down, which is afterward 
to be washed, dried, and pulverized. One 
part of this is next to be mixed with 9 parts 
powdered slag and the necessary quantity of 
slacked lime. This matter soon hardens, and 
rivals the best cement in its durability. 

2213. Zeiodite. This substance is made 
by mixing 20 to 30 parts roll sulphur with 24 
parts powdered glue or pumice, which forms 
a mass as hard as stone that resists the action 
of water and the strongest acids. Prof. E. 
Boettger recommends it, therefore, for making 
water-tight and air-tight cells for galvanic 
batteries. 

2214. Cement for Closing Cracks in 
Stoves, etc. A useful cement for closing 
up cracks in stove plates, stove doors, etc., is 
prepared by mixing finely-pulverized iron, 
such as can be procured at the druggists, with 
liquid water-glass, to a thick paste, and then 
coating the cracks with it. The hotter the 
fire then becomes, the more does the cement 
melt and combine with its metallic ingredi- 
ents, and the more completely will the crack 
become closed. 

2215. Cement for Fastening Iron to 
Stone. A cement for fastening iron to stone, 
which becomes nearly as hard as the stone 
itself, consists of G parts Portland cement, 1 
part powdered lime, not slacked, 2 parts sand, 



214. 



CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIE&. 



and 1 part slacked lime, mixed with water to 
the proper consistency, the stone and iron 
both being previonsly dampened. In 48 hours 
it will have set firmly. 

2216. Strong Cement for Iron. To 
4 or 5 parts clay, thoroughly dried and pulver- 
ized, add 2 parts iron filings free from oxide, 
1 part peroxide of manganese, i part of sea 
salt, and ^ part borax. Mingle thoroughly, 
and render as fine as possible ; then reduce to 
a thick paste with the necessary quantity of 
water, mixing thoroughly. It must be used 
immediately. After application, it should be 
exposed to warmth, gradually increasing al- 
most to white heat. This cement is very 
hard, and presents complete resistance alike 
to a red heat and boiling water. 

2217. Cement for Iron. An excellent 
cement is made by mixing equal parts of 
sifted peroxide of manganese and well-pulver 
ized zinc white> adding a sufficient quantity of 
commercial soluble glass to form a thin paste. 
This mixture, when used immediately, forms 
a cement quite equal in hardness and resistance 
to that given in the last receipt. 

2218. Cement for Uniting Stone, 
Berbyshire Spar, etc. Melt together 4 
ounces resin, k ounce wax, and about an 
ounce finely-sifted plaster of Paris. The 
articles to be joined should be well cleaned, 
then made hot enough to melt the cement, and 
the pieces pressed together very closely, so as 
to leave as little as possible of the composition 
between the joints. This is a general rule 
with all cements, as the thinner the stratum 
of cement interposed the firmer it will hold. 

2219. Cheap Artificial Building 
Stone. A large number of houses have been 
constructed in Paris, for workmen, of the fol- 
lowing materials : 100 parts plaster of Paris, 
10 parts hydraulic lime, 5 parts liquid glue, 
and 500 parts cold water, are intimately mixed 
and poured into moulds of any desired size 
and shape ; and in half an hour the form can 
be removed. The stones are then exposed in 
the open air for 2 weeks, until they are thor- 
oughly dry. Artificial stone thus prepared, 
has the ring and hardness of the native rock ; 
and, where the materials are abundant, is said 
to be 25 per cent, cheaper than quarried stone. 

2220. Simple and Useful Cement. 
Alum and plaster of Paris, well mixed in wa- 
ter and used in the liquid state, form a hard 
composition and also a useful cement. 

2221. Cement for Fastening Instru- 
ments in Handles. A material for fasten- 
ing knives or forks into their handles, when 
they have become loosened by use, is a much- 
needed article. The best cement for this pur- 
pose consists of 1 pound resin and 8 ounces 
•sulphur, which are to be melted together and 
either kept in bars or reduced to powder. 1 
part of the powder is to be mixed with ^ a 
part of ii.^ filings, fine sand, or brick-dust, 
and^the cavity ^f the handle is then to be filled 
with this mixt? re. The stem of the knife or 
fork is then to oe heated and inserted into the 
cavity ; and when cold it will be found firmly 
fixed in its place. 

2222. Cement for Fastening Iron 
to Stone. Glycerine and litharge stirred to 
a paste, hardens rapidly, and makes a suitable 
cement for iron upon iron, for two stone sur- 
faces, and especially for fastening iron to 



stone. The cement is insoluble, and is noi 
attacked by strong acids. 

2223. Vegetable Cement. A good 
vegetable cement may be prepared by mixing 
gum-arabic with nitrate of lime. The latter 
is prepared by dissolving an excess of marble 
in nitric acid, and filtering. The filtered so- 
lution will contain 33.3 per cent, nitrate oi 
lime, which may be dried by evaporation. 
For the cement, take 2 parts by weight of the 
nitrate of lime, 20 parts pulverized gum- 
arabic, and 25 parts water. The mixture 
can be further diluted to adapt it to the uses 
to which it is to be applied. In the manufac- 
ture of artificial stone, a cement of a similar 
character has been found to serve a good pur- 
pose. Something of the kind is used in the 
Frear stone, but in the Beton-Coignet no ad- 
ditional binding material is found necessary. 
2224. Cement for Leaky House 
Roofs. Take 4 pounds resin, 1 pint linseed 
oil, 2 ounces red lead, and stir in pulverized 
sand until the proper consistency is secm-ed^ 
and apply it warm. This cement becomes 
hard and yet possesses considerable elasticity^ 
and is durable and waterproof. 

2225. Engineer's Cement. Mix ground 
white lead with as much powdered red lead 
as will make it of the consistence of putty. 
This cement is employed by engineers and 
others to make metallic joints. A washer of 
hemp, yarn, or canvas, smeared with the ce- 
ment, is placed in the joint, which is then 
screwed up tight. It dries as hard as stone. 
This cement answers well for joining broken 
stones, however large. Cisterns built of 
square stones, put together, while dry, with 
this cement, will never leak or require repair. 
It is only necessary to use it for an inch or 
two next the water; the rest of the joint 
may be filled with good mortar. It is better, 
however, to use it for the whole joint. (See 
No. 2169.) 

2226. Plumbers' Cement. Melt 1 
pound black resin, then stir in 1 to 2 pounds 
brick-dust. Sometimes a little taUow is 
added. 

2227. Red Cement. The red cement 
used for uniting glass to metals is made by 
melting 5 parts black resin with 1 part yellow 
wax, and then stirring in gradually 1 part red 
ochre or Yenetian red, in fine powder, and 
previously well dried, This cement requires 
to be melted before use, and it adheres better 
if the objects to which it is applied are 
warmed. 

2228. Turners' Cement. Melt togeth- 
er bees' wax, 1 ounce ; resin, i ounce ; and 
pitch, i ounce ; stir in the mixture some very 
tine brick-dust to give it a body. If too soft, 
add more resin; if too hard, more wax. 
"When nearly cold, make it up into cakes or 
rolls for use. Used for fastening wood on a 
turner's chuck. 

2229. Temporary Cement for Opti- 
cians, Jewelers, &c. A temporary cement 
to tix optical glasses, stones, jewelry, &c., on 
stocks or handles for the purpose of painting, 
repairing, or ornamenting, is made b}^ melting 
together at a good heat, 2 ounces resin, 1 
drachm wax, and 2 ounces whitening; with 
this applied to the article when heated, a se- 
cure hold may be obtained, unfixed at plea^ 
sure by heat. 



CEMENTS AXD UXITING BODIES. 



215 



2230. Cement for Fixing Metal to 
Leather. Wash the metal in hot gelatine, 
steep the leather in hot gall-nut infusion, and 
unite Avhile hot. 

2231. Cement for Fixing Metal to 
Marble, Stone, or Wood. Mix together 4 
parts carpenters' glue and 1 part Yenice tur- 
pentine. 

' 2232. Cement for Coating Acid 
Troughs. Melt together 1 part pitch, 1 part 
resin, and 1 part plaster of Paris (perfectly 
dry.) 

2233. To Cement Cloth to Polished 
Metal. Cloth can be cemented to polished 
iron shafts, by first giving them a coat of best 
white lead paint ; this being dried hard, coat 
with best Kussian glue, dissolved in water 
containing a little vinegar or acetic acid. 

2234. Cement for Gas Retorts. Anew 
cement, especially adapted to the retorts of 
gas-works, is very warmly recommended in a 
German gas-light journal. It consists of fine- 
ly-powdered barytes and a soluble water-glass; 
or the barytes and a solution of boras. The 
joints are to be coated several times with this 
cement, by means of a brush. The addition 
of two-thirds of a part of clay improves the 
cement, and the retorts will then stand a red 
heat very well. Instead of the water-glass, 
a solution of borax may be used, or even fine- 
ly powdered white glass. 

2235. Use of Silicate of Potassa in 
Strengthening Fossil Skeletons. A very 
judicious application of the silicate of potassa 
(liquid glass) has been lately made at the 
Museum of Natural History of Paris, in re- 
pairing a great many fossil skeletons which 
had been disjointed and broken by the shells 
bursting in this Palace of Science. The solu- 
tions have been first used diluted to about 30° 
Baume, and afterwards of a higher degree of 
concentration. The adherence of the broken 
or separated pieces is brought together by ap- 
plying with a brush some of the solution of 
the silicate of potassa on the parts to be 
joined, then they are left to dry, and the joint 
is hardly visible ; and the joined part is far 
stronger than the remainder of the bone. Yery 
delicate and porous anatomical pieces, as skel- 
etons of birds, insects, etc., can be dipped re- 
peatedly in more diluted solutions, and thus 
be rendered very hard and tenacious. 

2236. Transparent Cement for Lenses, 
&c. It is frequently found necessary to ce- 
ment together two surfaces of transparent 
glass, without destroying or injuring their 
transparency; this is especially the case in 
compound lenses. The best cement for eflFect- 
ing the union is Canada balsam, which, if too 
thick, should be thinned with a little turpen- 
tine, benzole, or ether. It is of importance 
that no air bubbles be present. In order to 
cement together the two parts of an achro- 
matic lens (this consists of a double convex 
lens fitting exactly into the concavity of 
a plano-concave lens), having thoroughly 
cleaned the surfaces to be brought in contact, 
lay the glass, previously made warm, on a ta- 
ble suitably covered to prevent the under sur- 
face from being scratched. By means of a 
peg of wood or otherwise, convey a drop of 
the balsam to the centre of the lens, and then 
gently lower down upon it the lens to be ce- 
mented to it, also previously made slightly 



warm. !N"ow apply a slight pressure, and the 
dark disc in the centre, indicative of optical 
contact, will rapidly increase in size, until at 
last the balsam reaches the margin and begins 
to ooze out at the edges, if the balsam be 
present in excess, as it should be. By 
means of a piece of soft string passed cross- 
wise over the lenses, tie the two together, and 
place them in a stove, an oven, or before a 
fire, for a short time, until the balsam at the 
edges shall have become hard and dr}^. Let, 
the string then be removed and the lens freed 
from all external traces of balsam by means 
of benzole or ether. The above directions, 
modified to suit cncum stances, apply to tho 
cementation of transparencies or opal pic- 
tures ; also to the varnishing of magic lan- 
tern slides, and the protection of any transpa- 
rent surfaces from the air. 

2237. Cement for Chemical Glasses. 
Mix equal parts of wheat flour, finely-pow- 
dered Yenice glass, pulverized chalk, and a 
small quantity of brick-dust, finely ground; 
these ingredients, with a little scraped lint, 
are to be mixed and ground up with the white 
of eggs ; it must then be spread upon pieces 
of fine linen cloth, and applied to the crack of 
the glasses, and allowed to get thoroughly 
dry before the glasses are put to the fire. 

2238. Hermetical Sealing for Bottles. 
G-elatine mixed with glycerine yields a com- 
pound, liquid when hot, but becoming solid 
by coofing, at the same time retaining much 
elasticity. Bottles may be hermetically 
sealed by dipping their necks into the liquid 
mixtm'e, and repeating the operation until the 
cap attains any thickness required. 

2239. Cement to Seal Bottles Con- 
taining Volatile Liquids. Chemists and 
others know well the difficulty of keeping vol- 
atile liquids. Bottles of ether, for example,, 
are shipped for India, and when they arrive- 
are found to be more than half empty. The 
remedy with exporters is a luting of melted 
sulphur, which is difficult to apply and hard to 
remove. A new cement, easily prepared and 
appKed, and which is said to prevent the es- 
cape of the most volatile liquids, is composed 
of very finely ground litharge and concen- 
trated glycerine, and is merely painted around. 
the cork or stopper. It quickly dries and be- 
comes extremely hard, but can be easily 
scraped off" with a knife when it is necessary 
to open the bottle. 

2240. Cement for Sealing Corks in 
Bottles. Take an equal quantity of resin 
and bees' wax, melt them together, then put 
in an almost equal bulk of finely-powdered 
red chalk, add a small quantity of neatsfoot 
oil, let the whole boil 1 minute, then take it 
from the fire and stir it well ; if too thick, 
add a little more oil. 

2241. Cement for Sealing the Corks 
in Bottles. Melt together i pound sealing- 
wax, the same quantity of resin, and 2 ounces 
bees' wax. When it froths stir it .7ith a tal- 
low candle. As soon as it melts dip the 
mouths of the corked bottles in it. 

2242. Painters' Putty. Putty is made 
of common whitening, pounded very fine, 
and mixed with linseed oil till it becomes 
about the thickness of dough. 

2243. auick Hardening Putty. A 
putty of starch and chloride of zinc hardens 



216 



CEMENTS AND UNITING BODIES. 



quickly, and lasts for months, as a stopper of 
holes in metals. 

2244. Cement to Stop Flaws or 
Cracks in "Wood of any Color. Put any 

quantity of fine sawdust, of the same wood 
the work is made with, into an earthen pan, 
and pour boiling water on it, sth* it well, and 
let it remain for a week or ten days, occasion- 
ally stirring it ; then boil it for some time, 
and it will be of the consistence of pulp or 
paste ; put it into a coarse cloth, and squeeze 
all the moisture from it. Keep for use, and, 
when wanted, mix a sufficient quantity of thin 
glue to make it into a paste ; rub it well into 
the cracks, or fill up the holes in the work 
with it. "WTien quite hard and dry, clean the 
work off, and, if carefully done, the imperfec- 
tion will be scarcely discernible. 

2245. Cement for Cloth, Leather, or 
Belting. Take ale, 1 pint ; best Eussia isin- 
glass, 2 ounces; put them into a common 
glue kettle and boil until the isinglass is dis- 
solved ; then add 4 ounces best glue, and dis- 
solve it with the other; then slowly add li 
ounces boiled linseed oil, stirring all the time 
while adding and until well mixed. TVhen 
cold it will resemble India rubber. To use 
this, dissolve what is needed in a suitable 
quantity of ale to the consistence of thick 
glue. It is applicable for leather, for harness, 
bands for machinery, cloth belts for cracker 
machines for bakers, (fee, (fee. If for leather, 
shave off as if for sewing, apply the cement 
with a brush while hot, laying a weight to 
keep each joint firmly for 6 to 10 hours, or 
over night. 

2246. Cement for Leather Belting. 
Take of common glue and American isinglass, 
equal parts ; place them in a glue-pot and add 
water sufficient to just cover the whole. Let 
it soak 10 hours, then bring the whole to a 
boiling heat, and add pm'e tannin until the 
whole becomes ropey or appears like the white 
of eggs. Apply it warm. Buff the grain 
off the leather where it is to be cemented ; 
rub the joint sm-faces solidly together, let it 
dry afewhom's, audit is ready for use ; and, if 
properly put together, it will not need rivet- 
ing, as the cement is nearly of the same na- 
ture as the leather itself. We know of no ce- 
ment better either for emery wheels or emery 
belts than the best glue. In an experience of 
fifteen years we never found anything supe- 
rior. 

2247. Gutta-Percha Cement. This 
highly recommended cement is made by melt- 
ing together, in an iron pan, 2 parts common 
pitch and 1 part gutta-percha, stnring them 
well together until thoroughly incorporated, 
and then pouring the liquid into cold water. 
When cold it is black, solid, and elastic ; but 
it softens with heat, and at 100° Fahr. is a 
thin fluid. It may be used as a soft paste, or 
in the liquid state, and answers an excellent 
purpose in cementing metal, glass, porcelain, 
ivory, (fee. It may be used instead of putty 
for glazing windows. 

2248. To Dissolve India Rubber for 
Cement, &c. India rubber dissolves readily 
in rectified sulphuric ether, which has been 
washed with water to remove alcohol and 
acidity; also in chloroform. These make 
odorless solutions, but are too expensive for 
general use. The gum dissolves easily ui 



bisulphuret of carbon; or a mixture of 94 
parts bisulphm-et of carbon and 6 parts abso- 
lute alcohol; also in caoutchoucine. (See No. 
2249.) These dissolve the gum rapidly in the 
cold, and leave it unaltered on evaporation ; 
they have a disagreeable odor, but they leave 
the India rubber in better condition than most 
other solvents. Oil of turpentine, rendered 
pyrogenous by absorbing it with bricks of 
porous ware, and distilling it without water, 
and treating the product in the same way, is 
also used for this purpose. It is stated that 
the solution on evaporation does not leave the 
caoutchouc in a sticky state. Another method 
is to agitate oil of turpentine repeatedly with 
a mixture of equal weights of sulphuric acid 
and water; and afterwards expose it to the 
sun for some time. Benzole, rectified mineral 
or coal tar naphtha, and oil of turpentine re- 
duce the gum slowly by long digestion and 
trituration, with heat, forming a glutinous 
jelly which dries slowly, and leaves the gum, 
when dry, very much reduced in hardness and 
elasticity. The fats and fixed oils combine 
readily with India rubber by boiling, forming 
a permanently glutinous paste. (See No. 
2947.) India rubber is rendered more readily 
soluble by first digesting it with a solution of 
carbonate of soda, or water of ammonia. 

2249. Caoutchoucine. Pure India rub- 
ber, cut into small lumps, is thrown into a 
cast-iron stiU, connected with a well- cooled 
worm tub, and heat is applied until the ther- 
mometer ranges about 600° Fahr., when noth- 
ing is left in the still but dirt and charcoal. 
The dark colored fetid oil which has distilled 
over is next rectified with one third its weight 
of water, once or oftener, until it is colorless ; 
it is then highly volatile and of .680 specific 
gravity. The product is then shaken up with 
nitro-muriatic acid, or chlorine, in the propor- 
tion of i pint of acid to each gallon of the 
liquid. This is the lightest fluid known, and 
yet its vapor is the heaviest of gases. Mixed 
with alcohol, it dissolves all the resins, espe- 
cially copal and India rubber, at the common 
temperature of the air; and it speedily evapo- 
rates, leaving them in a solid state. It mixes 
with the oils in all proportions ; and has been 
used for making varnishes, and for liquefying 
oil paints, instead of turpentine. It is very 
volatile, and must be kept in close vessels. 

2250. Cement for Uniting Sheet Gutta- 
percha to Silk, &c. Gutta-percha, 40 pounds; 
caoutchouc, 3 pounds; shellac, 3 pounds; 
Canada balsam, or Yenice turpentine, 14 
pounds; liquid storax, 35 pounds; gum mastic, 
4 pounds ; oxide of lead, 1 pound. Mix as di- 
rected in the next receipt. 

2251. Cement for Uniting Sheet 
Gutta-Percha to Leather. For uniring 
sheet gutta-percha to leather, as soles of shoes, 
etc. Gutta-percha, 50 pounds; Yenice turpen- 
tine, 40 pounds ; shellac, 4 pounds ; caout- 
chouc, 1 pound ; liquid storax, 5 pounds. In 
making the cement, the Yenice turpentine 
should be first heated ; then the gutta-percha 
and the shellac should be added ; the order in 
which the other materials are added is not 
important. Care should be taken to incorpor- 
ate them thoroughly, and the heat should be 
regulated, so as not to burn the mixture. 

2252. Transparent Cement. Dissolve 
75 parts India rubber in 60 parts of chloro- 



LUTE. 



217 



form, and add to the solution 15 parts of 
gum mastich. 

2253. How to Fasten Rubber to 
"Wood and Metal. As rubber plates and 
rings are now a-days almost exclusively used 
for making connections between steam and 
other pipes and apparatus, much annoyance 
is often experienced by the impossibility or 
imperfectness of an air-tight connection. This 
is obviated entirely by employing a cement 
which fastens equally well to the rubber and 
to the metal or wood. Such cement is pre- 
pared by a solution of shellac in ammonia. 
This is best made by soaking pulverized gum- 
shellac in ten times its weight of strong am- 
monia, when a slimy mass is obtained, which, 
in three to four weeks, will become liquid 
without the use of hot water. This softens 
the rubber, and becomes, after volatilization 
of the ammonia, hard and impermeable to 
gases and fluids. 

2254. Marine Cement for Uniting 
Leather to Gutta-Percha. This will unite 
leather to gutta-percha, and is impervious to 
damp. It is made by dissolving by the aid of 
heat, 1 part India rubber in naphtha, and, 
when melted, adding 2 parts shellac, and 
melting until mixed. Pour it while hot on 
metal plates to cool. When required for use, 
melt, and apply with a brush. This cement 
does not adhere very well to vulcanized rub- 
ber, and the joint is always weak. 

22 5 5 . C ement to Unite India Rubber. 
Take 16 parts gutta-percha, 4 parts India rub- 
ber, 2 parts common caulkers' pitch, 1 part 
linseed oil. The ingredients are melted to- 
gether, and used hot. It will unite leather 
or rubber that has not been vulcanized. 

2256. Gutta-Percha Cement for Fas- 
tening Leather. Dissolve a quantity of 
gutta-percha in chloroform in quantity to 
make a fluid of honey-like consistence. 
When spread it will dry in a few moments. 
Heat the surfaces at a fire or gas flame until 
softened, and apply them together. Small 
patches of leather can be thus cemented on 
boots, etc., so as almost to defy detection, 
and some shoemakers employ it with great 
success for this purpose. It is watei-proof, 
and will answer almost anywhere unless ex- 
posed to heat, which softens it. 

2257. Caoutchouc Cement is made as 
follows : — Gutta-percha, 3 parts ; virgin India 
rubber (caoutchouc), 1 part (both cut small) ; 
pyrogenous oil of turpentine, or bisulphuret 
of carbon, 8 parts ; mix in a close vessel, and 
dissolve by the heat of hot water. This 
cement should be gently heated before being 
used. 

2258. Cement to Mend India Rubber 
Shoes. A solution of caoutchouc, or virgin 
India rubber, for repairing India rubber shoes, 
is prepared in the following manner : Cut 2 
pounds caoutchouc into thin, small slices ; 
put them in a vessel of tinned sheet-iron and 
pour over 12 to 14 pounds of sulphide of car- 
bon. For the promotion of solution, place 
the vessel in another containing water pre- 
viously heated up to about 86° Fahr. The 
solution will take place promptly, but the 
fluid will thicken very soon, and thus render 
the apphcation difficult, if not impossible. 
In order to prevent this thickening, a solution 
of caoutchouc and resin in spirits of turpen- 



tine must be added to the solution of caout- 
chouc in sulphide of carbon, and in such 
quantity that the mixture obtains the consist- 
ency of a thin paste. The solution of caout- 
chouc and resin in spirit of turpentine should 
be prepared as follows : Cut 1 pound of caout- 
chouc mto thin, small slices; heat in a suita- 
ble vessel over a moderate coal fire, until the 
caoutchouc becomes fluid ; then add i pound 
powdered resin, and melt both materials at a 
moderate heat. When these materials are 
perfectly fluid, then gradually add 3 or 4 
pounds spirit of turpentine in smaU portions, 
and stu* well. By the addition of the last 
solution, the rapid thickening and hardeniug 
of the compound will be prevented, and a 
mixture obtained fully answering the purpose 
of glueing together rubber surfaces, etc. 

2259. To Fasten Chamois and Other 
Leather to Iron and Steel. Dr. Carl W. 
Heinischen, of Dresden, gives the following 
receipt for the above purpose : Spread over 
the metal a thin, hot solution of good glue ; 
soak the leather with a warm solution of 
gaU-nuts before placing on the metal, and 
leave to dry under an even pressure. If fas- 
tened in this manner it is impossible to sepa- 
rate the leather from the metal without tear- 
ing it. 

2260. Cement for Petroleum Lamps. 
A cement particularly adapted for attaching 
the brass work to petroleum lamps, is made 
by Puscher, by boiling 3 parts resin with 1 of 
caustic soda and 5 of water. The composition 
is then mixed with half its weight of plaster 
of Paris, and sets flrmly in half to three- 
quarters of an hour. It is said to be of great 
adhesive power, not permeable to petroleum, 
a low conductor of heat, and but superficially 
attacked by hot water. Zinc white, white 
lead, or precipitated chalk may be substituted 
for plaster, but hardens more slowly. 

2261. Cement for Attaching Metal 
Letters to Plate Glass. Copal varnish, 16 
parts ; drying oil, 6 parts ; turpentine, and 
oil of turpentine, of each 3 parts ; liquefied 
glue (made with the least possible quantity 
of water), 5 parts. Melt together in a water- 
bath, and add fresh slacked lime (perfectly 
diy and in very fine powder), 10 parts. 

2262. Cement for Metal and Glass. 
Mix 2 ounces of a thick solution of glue with 
1 ounce linseed oil varnish, or f ounce Yenice 
turpentine ; boil them together, stining them 
until they mix as thoroughly as possible. 
The pieces cemented should be tied together 
for 2 or 3 days. This cement will firmly at- 
tach ainy metallic substance to glass or porce- 
lain. {See last receipt.) 



Lute. A composition employed to se- 
j cm-e the joints of chemical vessels, or 
as a covering to protect them from the vio- 
lence of the fire. For the joiuts of vessels, 
as stills, (fee, not exposed to a heat much 
higher than 212° Fahr., linseed meal, either 
alone or mixed with an equal weight of whit- 
ing, and made into a stiff paste with water, 
may be employed. Ground almond cake, 
from which the oil has been pressed, may also 
be used for the same purpose. For the joints 
i of small vessels, as tubes, <fcc., especially of 



FLOUE PASTE 



glass or earthenware, small rings of India 1 
rubber slipped over and tied above and below j 
the joint, are very conyenient substitutes for; 
lutes, and have the advantage of lasting a 
long time, and bearing uninjured the heat at 
which oil of vitriol boils, 

2264. liUte for Stills. A very useful 
lute is formed by beating the white of an egg 
thoroughly with an equal quantity of water, 
and mixing it with some slacked lime in the 
state of fine powder, so as to form a thin paste. 
This must be spread immediately on strips of 
muslin, and applied to the cracks or joints 
intended to be luted. It soon hardens, ad- 
heres strongly, and will bear a heat approach- 
ing to redness without injmy. A leak in this 
lute is readily stopped by the application of a 
fresh portion. Solution of glue, or any liquid 
albuminous matter, may be used in place of 
the white of eggs. 

2265. Lemery's Lute for Stills or 
Retorts. Lemery used the following lute 
for stopping retorts, etc. : Fine flour and fine 
lime, of each 1 ounce; potters earth, i ounce; 
make a moist paste of these with white of 
Qgg, well beaten up with a little water ; this 
will be found to stop exceedingly close. 

2266. Boyle's Lute for Retorts, <fec. 
Boyle recommends, on experience, the follow- 
ing for the same pm-pose : Some good fine 
quickhme and scrapings of cheese, pounded 
ta a mortar, with as much water as will bring 
the mixture to soft paste ; then spread on a 
piece of linen rag, and apply it as occasion 
requires. 

2267. Useful Lute. A useful lute is 
made by spreadiug a solution of glue on strips 
of cloth, and coating them, after they are ap- 
plied, with drying oil. 

2268. Lute for Joining Crucibles. 
For joining crucibles to be exposed to a 
strong heat7 a mixture of fine clay and ground 
bricks, mixed up with water, or preferably 
with a solution of borax, answers well for 
most purposes. 

2269. Fire Lute. As a coating for ves- 
sels, to preserve them from injury from ex- 
posure to the fire, nothing is better than a 
mixture of ordinary pipe-clay and horse dung, 
made into a paste with water. This compo- 
sition is used by the pipe-makers, and will 
stand unharmed the extreme heat of their 
kiln for 24 hom-s. It is applied by spreading 
it on paper. 

2270. Lute to Protect Glass Vessels, 
The following composition will enable glass 
vessels to sustain an incredible degree of heat : 
Take fragments of porcelain, pulverize, and 
sift them well, and add an equal quantity of 
fine clay, previously softened with as much of 
a saturated solution of muriate of soda as is 
requisite to give the whole a proper consist- 
ence. Apply a thin and uniform coat of this 
composition to the glass vessels, and allow it 
to dry slowly before they are put into the fire. 



Flonr Paste. The best paste for 
general purposes is simply wheat flour 
beaten into cold water to perfect smoothness, 
and the whole just brought to a boil, while 
being constantly stirred to prevent buiTiing. 
The addition of a few drops of creosote, or ^a 



few grains of corrosive sublimate, or a little 
carbolic acid, or bisulphite of lime (especially 
the first and second), will prevent insects 
from attacking it, and preserve it (in covered 
vessels) for years. Should it get too hard it 
may be softened with water. 

2272. Paper Hangers' Paste. Beat 
up 4 pounds of good white wheat flour in cold 
water — enough to form a stifi" batter (sifting 
the flour first) ; beat it well, to take out all 
lumps ; then add enough cold water to make 
it the consistence of pudding batter ; add 
about 2 ounces of well pounded aluni. Be 
sm-e and have plenty of boiling water ready ; 
take it quite boiling from the fire, and pour 
gently and quickly over the batter, stirring 
rapidly at the same time ; and when it is ob- 
served to swell and lose the white color of 
the flour, it is cooked and ready. This will 
make about f of a pail of solid paste ; do not 
use it while hot ; allow it to cool and it will 
go further; about a pint of cold water may be 
put over the top of it, to prevent it skinning; 
before using, thin this with cold water to 
spread easily and quickly under the brush- 
This paste will keep a long while without fer- 
menting, when it is useless ; mould on the top 
does not hurt it ; remove it, the remainder is 
good, {See No. 2273.) 

2273. Strongly Adhering Paste. 
^here great adhesiveness is required, such as 
papering over varnished paper or painted 
walls, it will be necessary to add i an ounce 
of finely powdered resin to each ^ gallon of 
the batter in the last receipt. As the resin 
does not dissolve so readily, set the pan con- 
taining the ingredients over a moderate fire^ 
constantly stirring until it boils and thickens, 
and a short time after put out to cool. Re- 
duce the paste with thin gum-arabic water. 
In hanging '•'flock'' papers with crimson in 
them, omit the alum, as it wiU injure the 
color, 

2274. To Make a Fine Paste. A 
solution of 21 oimces gum-arabic in 2 quarts 
warm water, is thickened to a paste with 
wheat flom-; to this is added a solution of 
alum and sugar of lead, 1^ ounces each in wa- 
ter ; the mixture is heated and stirred about 
to boil, and is then cooled. It may be 
thinned, if necessarv. with a gum solutioici. 

2275. To Make Paste for Laylag 
Cloth or Leather on Table Tops. To 1 
pint best wheaten flour add resin, very finely 
powdered, about 2 large spoonfuls ; of alum, 
1 spoonful, in powder ; mix them all well to- 
gether, put them into a pan, and add by de- 
grees soft or rain water, carefully stirring it 
till it is of the consistence of thinnish cream ; 
put it into a saucepan over a clear fire, keep- 
ing it constantly stirred, that it may not get 
lumpy, T7hen^it is of a stifi" consistence, so 
that the spoon will .stand upright in it. it is 
done enough. Be careful to stir it well from 
the bottom, for it will burn if not well at- 
tended to. Empty it out into a pan and 
cover it over till cold, to prevent a skin form- 
ing on the top, which would make it lumpy. 
This paste is very superior for the purpose, 
and adhesive, 

2276. To Paste Leather or Cloth 
on Table Tops. To use paste in the last 
receipt, for cloth or baize, spread the paste 
evenly and smoothly on the top of the table, 



GLUE. 



219 



and lay your cloth on it, pressing and smooth- 
ing it with a flat piece of wood ; let it remain 
till dry ; then trim the edges close to the 
cross-banding. If you cut it close at first, 
it will, in drying, shrink and look bad where 
it meets the banding all around. If used for 
leather, the leather must be first previously 
dampened, and then the paste spread over it ; 
next lay it on the table, and rub it smooth 
and level with a linen cloth, and cut the edges 
close to the banding with a short knife. 
Some lay their table-covers with glue instead 
of paste, and for cloth perhaps it is the best 
method ; but for leather it is not proper, as 
glue is apt to run through. In using it for 
cloth, great care must be taken that the glue is 
not too thin, and that the cloth be well rubbed 
down with a thick piece of wood made hot at 
the fire, for the glue soon chills. You may, 
by this method, cut off the edges close to the 
border at once. 



Glue. The hotter the glue, the more 
force it will exert in keeping the two 
parts glued together; therefore, in aU large 
and long joints the glue should be applied 
immediately after l)oiling. Grlue loses much 
of its strength by frequent re-melting ; that 
glue, therefore, which is newly made, is much 
preferable to that which has been re-boiled. 
In melting ordinary glue in the double vessel 
containing water, it is an excellent method to 
add salt to the water in the outer vessel. It 
will not boil then, until heated considerably 
above the ordinary boiling point ; the conse- 
quence is, the heat is retained, instead of 
passing off by evaporation, and when the wa- 
ter boils, the glue will be found to be thor- 
ougly and evenly melted. 

2278. To Prevent Glue from Crack- 
ing. Glue is often found to crack in very dry 
localities, particularly when the objects glued 
together are not in close contact, but have a 
thin layer of glue between them ; in which 
case they sometimes fall apart. Yery thin 
layers of glue are not only exceedingly hard, 
but also more or less brittle when extremely 
dry ; and, therefore, to prevent this dry and 
consequent brittle condition, the addition of a 
very small quantity of glycerine will accom- 
plish the desired end. The quantity of glycer- 
ine must be modified according to circum- 
stances. 

2279. To Make a Very Strong Glue. 
An ounce of the best isinglass may be dis- 
solved, by the application of a moderate heat, 
in a pint of water. Take this solution and 
strain it through a piece of cloth, and add to 
it a proportionate quantity of the best glue, 
which has been previously soaked in water 
for about 24 hours, and a gill of vinegar. 
After the whole of the materials have been 
brought into a solution, let it once boil up, 
and strain off the impurities. This glue is 
well adapted for any work which requires par- 
ticular strength, and where the joints them- 
selves do not contribute towards the combi- 
nation of the work ; or in small fillets and 
mouldings, and carved patterns that are to be 
held on the surface by the glue. 

2280. A Strong Glue that will Re- 
sist Moisture. Dissolve gum-sandarac and 



mastich, of each J ounce, in i pint spirits of 
wine, to which add i ounce clear turpentine ; 
now take strong glue, or that in which isinglass 
has been dissolved; then, putting the gums 
into a double glue-pot, add by degrees the glue, 
constantly stirring it over the fire till the 
whole is well incorporated ; strain it through a 
cloth, and it is ready for use. It may now 
be returned to the glue-pot, and 4- ounce very 
finelv-powdered glass added ; use it quite hot. 

2281. To Make Tungstic Glue. Tungs- 
tic glue is prepared by mixing a thick solution 
of glue with tungstate of soda, and hydro- 
chloric acid, by means of which a compound 
of tungstic acid and glue is precipitated, 
which, at a temperature of 86° to 104° Fahr., 
is sufficiently elastic to admit of being drawn 
out into very thin sheets. On cooling, this 
mass becomes solid and brittle, and on being 
heated is again soft and plastic. This new 
compound, it is said, can be used for all the 
purposes to which hard rubber is adapted. 

2282. To Keep Glue from Souring. 
If a little muriatic acid be put into glue 
when it is dissolved, ready for use, it will re- 
tain the glue in the same condition for a long 
time. It will neither dry up nor ferment". 
Liquid glue is made in this way, and sold in 
bottles. The use of a small portion of sugar 
of lead will also prevent fermentation. 

2283. To Prepare Glue for Ready Use. 
To any quantity of glue use common whiskey 
instead of water. Put both together in a bot- 
tle, cork it tight, and set it for 3 or 4 days, 
when it will be fit for use without the applica- 
tion of heat. Glue thus prepared will keep 
for years, and is at all times fit for use, except 
in very cold weather, when it should be set in 
warm water before using. To obviate the dif- 
ficulty of the stopper getting tight by the glue 
drying in the mouth of the vessel, use a tiii 
vessel with the cover fitting tight on the out- 
side, to prevent the escape of the spirit by 
evaporation. A strong solution of isinglass 
made in the same manner is an excellent ce- 
ment for leather. 

2284. Liquid Glue. The preparation 
of liquid glue is based upon the property of 
the concentrated acid of vinegar and diluted 
nitric acid to dissolve the gelatiue without 
destroying its cohesive qualities. Dumouiin 
has given the following receipt : 

2285. Dumoulin's Liquid and Unal- 
terable Glue. Take a wide-mouthed bottle, 
and dissolve in it 8 ounces best glue in i pint 
water, by setting it in a vessel of water, and 
heating until dissolved. Then add slowly 2^ 
ounces strong aqua fortis (nitric acid) 36° 
Baume, stirring all the while. Effervescence 
takes place under generation of nitrous gas. 
TThen all the acid has been added, the liquid 
is allowed to cool. Keep it well corked, and 
it will be ready for use at any moment. This 
preparation does not gelatinize, nor undergo 
putrefaction or fermentation. It is applicable 
for many domestic uses, such as mending 
china, repairing cabinet work, <tc. 

2286. Russian Liquid Glue. This is 
prepared by softening 100 parts best Eussian 
glue in 100 parts warm water, and then add- 
ing slowly from 63 to 6 parts aqua fortis, and 
finally 6 parts powdered sulphate of lead. 
The fatter is used in order to impart to it a 
white color. 



S20 



GLUE. 



23^87. Pale Liquid Grlue. Dissolve in a 
glass vessel 100 parts pale "steam glue" in 
double its weight of vrater, and add 12 parts 
aqua fortis as directed in Dmnoulin's receipt. 
(See No. 2285.) 

2288. Dark Liquid Glue. Put 100 
parts dark •' steam glue " and 140 parts Avater 
in a wide-mouthed glass bottle, and dissolve 
the glue in the water, then add slowly 16 parts 
aqua fortis, stirring all the while. AV^hen all 
the acid is added, the liquid is allowed to cool. 
Cork well. This liquid glue exhibits a great- 
er cohesive force than that prepared after Du- 
moulin's receipt. (*§ee JVb. 2285.) However, 
still better kinds of liquid glue or mucilage 
are obtained by dissolving gelatine or dextrine 
ia acetic acid and alcohol. 

2289. Good Liquid Glue. Fill a glass 
jar with broken-up glue of best quality, then 
fill it with acetic acid. Keep it in hot water 
for a few hours, until the glue is all melted, 
and you will have an excellent glue always 
ready. 

2290. Glue which. Stands Moisture 
"Without Softening'. Dissolve, in about 8 
fluid oujLces of strong methylated spirit, ^ an 
ounce each of sandarac and mastich; next, add 
i an ounce of turpentine. This solution is 
then added to a hot, thick solution of glue to 
which isinglass has been added, and is next 
filtered, while hot, through cloth or a good 
sieve. {See Xo.22QQ.) 

2291. Marine or Waterproof Glue. 
Take of gum shellac 3 parts, caoutchouc 
(India-rubber), 1 part, by weight. Dissolve 
the caoutchouc and shellac in separate vessels, 
in ether free from alcohol {see No. 2248), ap- 
plying a gentle heat. "When thoroughly dis- 
solved, mix the two solutions, and keep in a 
bottle tightly stoppered. This glue resists the 
action of water, both hot and cold, and most 
of the acids and alkalies. Pieces of wood, 
leather or other substances, joined together 
by it, will part at any other point than at the 
joint thus made. If the glue be thinned by 
the admixture of ether, and applied as a var- 
nish to leather, along the seams where it is 
sewed together, it renders the joint or seam 
water-tight, and almost impossible to separate. 

2292. Isinglass Glue. Dissolve isin- 
glass in water and strain through coarse linen, 
and then add a little spirits of wine. Evapo- 
rate it to such a consistency that when cold it 
will be dry and hard. This wiU hold stronger 
than common 2:lue, and is much preferred. 

2293. India-Rubber Glue for Photo- 
graphers and Bookbinders. A most val- 
uable glue for photographers, and extensively 
used by first-class bookbinders, is made from 
bottle India rubber. This must be dissolved 
in highly rectified spirits of turpentine ; the 
highly rectified spirit extracts every particle of 
grease, which is of the greatest consequence. 

2294. Braconnot's Glue of Caseine. 
Dissolve caseine in a strong solution of bicar- 
bonate of soda. 

2295. Wagner's Glue of Caseine. 
Dissolve caseine in a cold saturated solution 
of borax. Superior to gum, and ma.y take 
the place of glue in many cases. May be 
ased for the backs of adhesive tickets. 

2296. To Glue a Joint. In general, 
nothing mort^ is necessary to glnea joint, after 
the joini, IS made perfectly straight, than to 



glue both edges while the glue is quite hoi, 
and rub them lengthwise until it has nearly 
set. "When the wood is spongy, or sucks up 
the glue, another method must be adopted- 
one which strengthens the joint, while it does 
away with the necessity of using the glue too 
thick, which should always be avoided; for 
the less glue there is in contact with the joints, 
provided they touch, the better; and when 
the glue is thick, it chills quickly, and cannot 
be well rubbed out from between the joints. 
The method to which we refer is, to rub the 
joints on the edge with a piece of soft chalk, 
and, wiping it so as to take off' any lumps, 
glue it in the usual manner ; amd it will be 
found, when the wood is porous, to hold much 
faster than if used without chalking. 

2297. To Glue on Ivory Veneers. To 
glue on ivory veneers, take 2 parts pulverized 
gum-arabic and 1 part calomel, and add wa- 
ter sufficient to make a paste. 

2298. Excellent Liquid Glue. Take 
of best white glue, 16 ounces; white lead, 
dry, 4 ounces ; rain water, 2 pints ; alcohol, 4 
ounces. With constant stirring dissolve the 
glue and lead in the water by means of a wa- 
ter-bath. Add the alcohol and continue the 
heat for a few minutes. Lastly pour into 
bottles while it is still hot. This is said to be 
superior to " Spaulding's liquid glue." 

2299. Glycerine Paste for Office Use. 
Grlycerine paste for office use may be prepared 
by dissolving 1 ounce gum-arabic and 2 
drachms of glycerine in 3 ounces boiling 
water. 

2300. Government Postage Stamp 
Mucilage. The substance used for gumming 
stamps is made as follows. Gum dextrine, 2 
parts; acetic acid, 1 part; water, 5 parts. 
Dissolve in a water-bath, and add alcohol, 1 
part. 

2301. Mucilage for Labels. Macerate 
5 parts good glue in 18 to 20 parts water for a 
day, and to the liquid add 9 parts rock candy 
and 3 parts gum-arabic. The mixture can be 
brushed upon paper while lukewarm ; it keeps 
well, does not stick together, and, when moist- 
ened, adheres firmly to bottles. 

2302. Mucilage for Soda or Seltzer 
Water Bottles. For the labels of soda or 
seltzer water bottles it is well to prepare a 
paste of good rye fiour and glue to which lin- 
seed oil varnish and turpentine have been 
added in the proportion of h an ounce of each 
to the pound. Labels prepared in the latter 
way do not fall off in damp cellars. 

2303. Very Strong Liquid Glue. To 
make this, put 3 parts glue in 8 parts cold wa- 
ter, and let them stand for several hours to 
soften the glue ; then add i part muriatic acid' 
and f part sulphate of zinc, and heat the mix- 
ture to 185° Fahr., for 10 or 12 hours. The 
mixtui'e remains liquid after cooling, and is 
said to be very useful for sticking wood, crock- 
ery, and glass together. 

2304. Good' Mucilage. For household 
purposes this may be made by mixing 3 ounces 
gum-arabic, 3 ounces distilled vinegar, with 1 
ounce white sugar. Instead of the distilled 
vinegar, 1 part acetic acid and 5 parts water 
may be substituted. 

2305. To Prevent Mould in Mucilage. 
Solutions of gum-arabic are very liable to be- 
come mouldy; and while the introduction of 



SEALING-WAX. 



221 



creosote, corrosive sublimate, etc., frequently 
used to remedy this evil, is objectionable on 
account of the danger of poisoning, according 
to the "Industrie Blatter," sulphate of quinine 
is a complete protection against mould, a very 
small quantity of it being sufficient to prevent 
gum mucilage from spoiling. It is quite pos- 
sible that writing ink might bo protected, by 
the same application, from a like difficulty. 
The use of ammonia for the same purpose is 
also recommended. 

2306. Elastic Glue which does not 
spoil is obtained as follows : Good common 
glue is dissolved in water, on the water-bath, 
and the water evaporated down to a mass of 
thick consistence, to which a quantity of gly- 
cerine, equal in weight with the glue, is added, 
after which the heating is continued until all 
the water has been driven off, when the mass 
is poured out into moulds, or on a marble slab. 
This mixture answers for stamps, printers' 
rolls, galvano-plastic copies, etc. 

2307. Sweet Mouth Glue. Sweet 
glue, for ready use by moistening with the 
tongue, is made in the same way as elastic 
glue, substituting, however, the same quantity 
of powdered sugar for the glycerine. 

2308. Portable Glue or Bank-Note 
Cement. Boil 1 pound best glue, strain it 
very clear ; boil also 4 ounces isinglass ; put 
it into a double glue-pot, with i pound fine 
brown sugar, and boil it pretty thick; then 
pour it into plates or moulds. "When cold, 
you may cut and dry them for the pocket. 
This glue is very useful to draughtsmen, 
architects, &c., as it immediately dilutes in 
warm water, and fastens the paper without the 
process of damping; or, it may be used by soft- 
ening it in the mouth, and applying it to the 
paper. 

2309. To Make Mucilage that will 
Adhere to Glass or Polished Surfaces. 
We all know the difficulty of causing labels 
and similar objects to stick to glass or highly 
varnished articles exposed to the continued 
drying action of a very warm room. The gum 
or paste dries up and cracks, causing the label 
to fall off. One or two drops of glycerine in 
a small bottle of mucilage will entirely pre- 
vent this result. Too much glycerine must 
not be added, or the cement vrill fail to harden 
at all. 

2310. Mucilage of Tragacanth. 
Triturate 1 drachm powdered gum tragacanth 
in a mortar with 6 drachms glycerine ; add by 
degrees, with constant trituration, 10 fluid 
ounces water. This will produce a mucilage 
at once, without the objectionable air-bubbles 
incidental to agitation. 

2311. Mucilage of Tragacanth. 
Macerate 1 ounce tragacanth in 1 pint boiling 
water for 24 hours. Then triturate until 
smooth and uniform, and press through linen. 
If pretty firm this paste keeps well without the 
addition of an antiseptic, although a little 
acetic acid or creosote will more effectually 
prevent fermentation. 



O ealing- Wax. au the following 

k^ receipts for fine wax produce superfine 
by employing the best qualities of the ingredi- 
ents; and extra superfine or scented by adding 



1 per cent, of balsam of Peru or liquid stora:f 
to the ingredients when considerably cooled. 
The fancy kinds are commonly scented with a 
little essence of musk or ambergris, or any ol 
the more fragrant essential oils. The addition 
of a little camphor, or spirit of wine, makes 
sealing-wax burn easier. Sealing-wax con- 
taining resin, or too much turpentine, runsii 
into thin drops at the flame of the candle. 

2313. Fine Red Sealing-Wax. Melt 
cautiously 4 ounces very pale shellac in a 
bright copper pan over a clear charcoal fire, at 
the lowest degree of heat that will be neces- 
sary to melt it; when melted, stir in 1^ ounces 
Venice turpentine (previously warmed), fol- 
lowed by 3 ounces vermilion. The heat must 
be neither too much nor too little, but just 
sufficient to allow a most thorough mixing of 
the different ingredients. When this is ac- 
complished, the fluid mass is discharged into 
metallic moulds and left to cool. For the 
purpose of melting the shellac more easily, 
some add to the same a little alcohol. Or : 3 
pounds shellac, IJ pounds Venice turpentine, 
and 2 pounds finest cinnabar, mixed in the 
same manner as the preceding. 

2314. To Produce a Polish on Seal- 
ing-Wax. After the above process the 
sticks of sealing-wax have no pohsh. To 
produce this they have to be heated again 
on the surface. For this purpose they are 
put in other moulds, made of polished steel, 
which are engraved with the desired orna- 
ments. These moulds are heated only just 
sufficient to melt the sealing-wax on the 
surface, by which operation the sticks obtain 
a beautiful glossy appearance. The heat- 
ing of the moulds to stamp the mark of the 
manufacturer can be readily performed with a 
spirit lamp. 

2315. Common Red Sealing-Wax. 
Melt together 4 pounds resin and 2 pounds 
shellac; mix in, as in the last receipt, Ig 
pounds each of Venice turpentine and red lead. 

2316. Fine Black Sealing-Wax. 
Take 60 parts shellac, 30 parts finely-powdered 
ivory black, and 20 parts Venice turpentine ; 
mixed as in iSTo. 2313. 

2317. Common Black Sealing-Wax. 
Mix together (see Xo. 2313) 6 pounds resin, 2 
pounds each shellac and Venice tui-pentine, 
and sufficient lampblack to color. 

2318. Gold Colored Sealing-Wax. 
This is made by stirring gold colored mica 
spangles into the melted resins just before they 
begin to cool. Or : By taking finely pulver- 
ized gold-leaf (see No. 25) or metal powder, 
and stimng them into the sealing-wax in- 
stead of the colors. A common kind is made 
as follows : 6 parts shellac, 2 white resin, 1 
silver leaves. 

2319. Marbled Sealing-Wax is made 
by mixing diflcrent kinds of sealing-wax to- 
gether just as they begin to solidify. 

2320. Yellow Sealing-Wax. Mix to^ 
gether 4 ounces jiale shellac, 1^ ounces resin, 

2 ounces Venice turpentine, and f ounce 
King's yellow (sulphuret of arsenic, or 
oi'piment). 

2321. Light Brown Sealing-Wax. 
Take 74 ounces shellac and 4 ounces Venice 
turpentine; and color with 1 ounce brown 
ochre and J ounce cinnabar (red sulphuret of 
mercury or vermilion). 



BOILER INCBUSTATIOKS. 



2323. Blue Sealing- Wax. Take 16 
parts mastiC; 4 turpentine, 8 mountain-blue, 
3 burned selenite. The mountain-blue turns 
green by tbe heat of melting the mixture ; 
therefore it is better to use fine indigo, or very 
fine Prussian blaa | biit in that case the shel- 
lac must be particularly light-colored. 

2323. Dark Blue Sealing- Wax. Mix 
■^ ounces fine shellac, 3 ounces Yenice turpen- 
t;ine, 1 ounce resin, and 1 ounce mineral blue. 

2324. Green Sealing- Wax. Mix 4 
ounces shellac, 2 ounces Yenice turpentine, IJ 
ounces resin, 5 ounce King's yellow {see No. 
2320), and J ounce mineral blue. Or: 24 
parts shellac, 12 mastic, 4 tm-pentine, 6 verdi- 
gris ; colored with a mixture of yellow and 
indigo. 

2325. To Make Perfumed Sealing- 
Wax. Any fine sealing-wax may be per- 
fumed by mixing 1 per cent, of balsam of 
Peru, or Mquid storas^ to the ingredients when 
considerably cooled. A little essence of musk 
or ambergris will .-jerve the same purpose. 
The addition of a little camphor or spirit of 
•wiue makes sealing-wax melt easier. 

2326. To Improve the Appearance 
of Common Sealmg-Wax. To make com- 
mon sealing-wax appear to better advantage, 
the sticks, beiug still soft, are dipped in the 
powder of a better quality, and then super- 
ficially melted, so as to produce a thin coating. 

2327. Soft Sealing- Wax for Diplo- 
mas. Take 16 parts yellow wax, 3 turpen- 
tine, 1 ohve oil I after it is melted, the cinna- 
bar, or other colcring matter, is stirred in the 
compound. 

2328. To Take Proof-Impressions of 
Seals and Stamps. For this purpose the 
very best seaMng-wax is melted as usual by a 
flame, and carefully worked on the surface to 
which it is applied, until perfectly even ; the 
stamp is then firmly and evenly pressed into 
it. The flame of a spirit lamp is preferable, 
having no tendency to blacken the wax. A 
beautiful dead rppearance is given to the im- 
pression by dusting the stamp, before using 
it, with a finely-powder(id pigment of the 
same color as the wax; thus, for vermilion 
ssaMng-wax, powdered vermilion, &c. 



Boiler IncrnstationSo in 
a lengthy article on the subject, which 
appeared in the " Scientific American," Pro- 
fessor Chandler gives the substances referred 
to in the four following receipts, as having 
been recommended by practical men, for the 
purpose of preventing incrustations in boilers: 
2330. Wood Chips, Bark, &c,, as a 
Preventive of Incrustation. Catechu, 
nut-galls, oak bark, shavings and sawdust, tan 
bark, tormeutilla root, mahogany, logwood, 
etc. These substances all contain more or less 
tannic acid, associated with soluble extractive 
and coloring matters. "When they are intro- 
duced into the boiler, the soluble constituents 
are dissolved by the water, and basic tannate 
of lime is formed, which separates as a loose 
deposit, and does not adhere to the sides of 
the boiler. It is preferable to use the aqueous 
extract, as sawdust, chips, etc., are liable to 
find their way into the cocks and tubes, al- 
though they act mechanically^ receiving in- 



crustations which would otherwise fastea 
themselves on the sides of the boiler. In 
selecting one of these substances, the princi- 
pal object is to secure the largest quantity of 
tannic acid and soluble extractive matter for 
the lowest price. Some of these substances 
are said to "be very effective, ^ pound of 
catechu being sufficient for 100 cubic feet 
of water. Prom 4 to 6 pounds of oak chips 
have been recommended per horse power, or 5 
bushel mahogany chips for every 10 horse 
power. 

2331 „ Mucilaginous Substances as 
Preventives, Potatoes, starch, bran, linseed 
meal, gum, dextrine, Irish moss, slippery elm, 
marshmaUowroot, glue, etc. These substances 
form, sooner or later, a slimy liquid in the 
boiler, which prevents more or less completely 
the settling and hardening of the deposits. 
Some of them m&y even hold the lime and 
magnesia in solution. Potatoes have been 
used for many years, wherever steam engines 
are employed; half a peck or a peck are 
thrown into the boiler weekly. Linseed meal 
mixed with chopped straw was employed on 
a German railway, a peck at a time being in- 
troduced into each boiler. Some writers 
object to these oiganic substances, on the 
ground that they are hable to cause frothing. 

2332o Saccharine Matter as Prevent- 
ives, Sugar;, molasses, com or potato 
syrup. Both cane and grape sugar form 
soluble compounds with lime salts, and con- 
sequently prevent their separation as incrust- 
ations. One engineer found that 10 pounds 
of brcwn sugar protected his boiler for two 
mouths ; another, that 6 pounds of corn starch 
syrup had a sirdlar efiect. Another used 
molasses with success, introducing a gallon at 
a time. 

2S33. Fatty Substances as Prevent- 
ives. One writer used whale oil to prevent 
incrustations, 2 or 3 gallons at a time. Others 
smear the inside of the boiler with various 
mixtures of a fatty charaoter. Stearine, 
mixed with wood ashes, charcoal and tar, has 
been recommended, or tallow, with soap and 
charcoal diluted with oil or tar, or tallow and 
graphite. This plan could not well be applied 
to a locomotive boiler with its numerous 
tubes, even though it should prove effective 
in cylinder boilers. 

2334. Anti-Incrustation Powders, 
&c., for Boilers. Eegarding incrustation 
powders in use. Professor Chandler makes 
the following suggestions and recommenda- 
tions: Incrustation powders, bearing gener- 
ally the names of their proprietors, are ex- 
tensively advertised and sold ; they are either 
worthless or are sold at such extravagant 
prices as to make their use extremely ill-advis- 
ed. I have examined several of them. Those 
which are at all valuable consist of one or 
more of the substances already mentioned, 
and the only novel result of their use is the 
payment of many times the commercial value 
for a fair article. One which is put up in tin 
boxes, containing c.bout one pound, at $2.50 
each, contains carbonate of lime, 95.35 parts; 
carbonate of magnesia, 0.67 parts ; and oxide 
of iron, 4.15 parts. It differs little from some 
of the incrustations m composition, and is of 
no value whatever. Another contains log- 
wood^ 75.00 parte chloride of ammonia. 



azj^ss. 



223 



15.00 parts J chloride, of l)arium, 10.00 parts. 
This is a very good article, hut at the price 
for which it is sold it cannot he used in quanti- 
ties sufficient to produce much, effect. In 
fact, chloride of harium is too expensive to he 
Xised in this country at all, 

2335. To Guard Against Incrusta- 
tion in Boilers. JBrofessor Chandler reeom^ 



.The fusion is performed in large crucihles of 
refractory fire-clay ; in making lead glass, tho 
crucible is covered, "with a dome, and an open- 
ing left in the side, through which the mate- 
rials are put in and the melted glass with- 
drawn. Carbonates and other crystalline 
matter used in glass making, require to be dvT/, 
{See JSi'o. 2065.) Certain mineral oxides give 



mends the followiug- precautious: The use of ; glass a variety of color, sometimes of a very 
the purest waters that can be obtained, rain : undesirable kind. Should the paste contain, 
water wherever possible. Frequent use of the I traces of iron, instead of producing whita 



blow-off cock. That the boilers never be 
emptied while there is fire enough to harden 
the deposit. Frequent washing out. Exper- 
iments on the efficacy of zinc, lime-water, 
carbonate of soda, carbonate of baryta, cblor- 
ide of ammonium, some substance containing 
tannic acid, linseed meal, and the electro^ 
magnetic inductor. 

2336. Management of the Water to 
Prevent Boiler Incrustation. Blowing 
off. The frequent blowing off of small quan- 
tities of water, say a few gallons at a time, is 
undoubtedly one of the most effective and 
simple methods for removing sediments and 
preventing their hardening on the sides of the 
boUer. The water entering the boiler should 
be directed in such a way as to sweep the 
loose particles toward the blow-off cocks, that 
when these are open they may be carried out 
with the water. This blowing off should take 
place at least two or three times daily, per- 
haps much oftener. 

2337. Incrustation in Boilers. The on- 
ly effectual remedy is to blow out frequently. 
Blow out once a week at least ten per cent, of 
the water in the boilers. It should he done 
while the water is at rest, that is, before start- 
ing in the feed water. A practical engineer 
says : Our boilers were badly incmsted. We 
loosened the scale with chisels and kerosene 
oil, and after running them a year as above, 
they came out as clean and bright as could be. 

2338. Scale in Boilers. A practical 
engineer recommends the foUowing : Get some 
cow or ox feet, just as they are cut off in the 
slaughter house, put them in a wire net fine 
enough to detain the small bones from getting 
from the boiler into the blow-off pipe. Use 5 
of the feet to a 6-horse power boiler, and no 
further trouble with scale in the boilers will 
be experienced. They must be replaced 
every two or three months, according to the 
quality of the water. They do not make the 
water foam. 



Gla^SS. This is a compound of silica (sil- 
icic acid) with the oxide of an alkaline 
metal, obtained by fusion. In its usual form it 
is brittle, transparent, non-crystalline, insolu- 
ble, and fusible; but it sometimes exhibits oth- 
er qualities. The principle of its production is 
very simple, although skill and experience are 
necessary to insm-e excellence. Silica (com- 
monly under the form of sand) is heated with 
carbonate of potassa or soda and slaked lime 

or oxide of lead, until the mixture fuses and Irified potashes, 120 sand, 24 chalk, 2 s'altpetre, 
combination takes place. "When the mass be- 2 arsenious acid, ^V pai't manganese. Or; 
comes perfectly limpid and free from air bub- Purified pearlashes, 70 parts; 120 white sand; 
hies, it is allowed to cool until it assumes the'lO saltpetre; i part arsenious acid; and i 
peculiar tenacious condition for working, part manganese. Or : 67 parts sand, 23 puri 



glass there will he only the common hottle- 
glass ; and if the iron he in larger proportions, 
the dark green shade will ha the result, On 
the contrary, add a certain quantity of oxide 
of lead to a pure 1)ase of potash, and the 
beautiful crystal glass is formed; a still largeu 
dose, and the diamond paste, with its wonder- 
fully dispersive powerj will deceive many an 
unpracticed eye, 

2340. Peligot's Bohemian Tube Glass. 
The component parts of this glass are 71^ 
parts quartz, 20 parts diy (see JYb. 2065) car- 
bonate of potassa (or its equivalent), 8} parts 
quicklime, and a little manganese. It is very 
intractahle and difficult to melt, hut the addi- 
tion of a very smaU quantity of borax, horacie 
acid, or arsenious acid, causes it to flow into 
a glass of great hrilliancy and hardness, and 
capable of being wrought at the Jhighest heab 
of the ordinary furnace. 

2341. Bottle Glass. Drj/GIaulber salts, 
11 pounds ; soaper salts, 12 pounds ; ^ bushel 
of waste soap ashes ; sand, 56 pounds ; glass 
skimmings, 22 pounds; green hroken glass, 1 
cwt.; hasalt, 25 pounds. This mixture af- 
fords a dark green glass. Or: Yellow or 
white sand, 100 parts ; kelp, 30 to 40 parts ; 
lixiviated wood ashes, from 160 to 170 parts; 
fresh wood ashes, 30 to 40 parts; potter's 
clay, 80 to 100 parts ; cuUet, or broken glass, 
100 parts. If basalt l)e used, the proportion 
of kelp may 1)6 diminished. 

2342. Broad, or Green Window Glass. 
Dry Grlauher salts, 11 pounds ; soaper salts, 
10 pounds; ^ hushel of lixiviated soap waste; 
50^ pounds of sand; 22 pounds of glass-pofi 
skimmings; 1 cwt. of hroken green glais. 

2343. Crown, or White Window 
Glass., Pure sand; 100 parts; dry sulphate 
of soda, 50 parts ; dry quickhme, in powder, 
17 to 20 parts ; charcoal, 4 parts. The pro- 
duct is white and good. 

2344. Bohemian Crown Glass. Pure 
silicious sand, 63 parts; potash. 22 parts; 
lime, 12 parts ; oxide of manganese, 1 part. 

2345. Nearly White Table Glassr, 
Take 20 pounds potashes, 11 pounds dry 
G-laubcr salts, 16 pounds soaper salt, 55 pounda 
sand, and 140 pounds cullet or broken glass 
of the same kind. Or : 100 parts sand, 235 
kelp, 60 wood asheS; 1^ manganese^ 100 hro- 
ken glass. 

2346. White Table Glass. Tuse to- 
gether.40 pounds potashes, 11 chalk, 76 sand, 
k part manganese, 95 white cullet. Or : 50 
parts purified potashes/ 100 sand,, 20 chalk, 
and 2 saltpetre, 

2347. Crystal Glass. Take 60 parts pu- 



234: 



GLASS. 



fied pearlashes^ 19 sifted slacked lime, t part 
manganese, 5 to 8 red lead. 

2348. Clear Crystal Glass. White 
sand, 15 parts ; red lead, 10 parts ; refined 
ashes, 4 parts ; nitre, 1 part ; arsenious acid 
and manganese, of each a very little. 

2349. Vienna Plate Glass. Sand, 100 
parts ; calcined sulphate of soda, 50 parts ; 
lime, 20 parts ; charcoal, 2f parts. 

2350. Plate Glass. Pure sand, 40 



parts ; dry carbonate of soda, 26^ parts; 
lime, 4 parts; nitre, Ik parts; broken plate 
glass, 25 parts. 

2351. French Plate Glass. White 
quartz sand and cullet (old glass), of each 
300 parts ; dry carbonate of soda, 100 parts ; 
slacked lime, 43 parts. Or: Pure sand, 72 
parts ; refined soda, 45 parts ; quicklime, 48 
parts ; nitre, 2i parts ; cullet (old glass), 45 
parts. 



2352. Table of Proportions of the Materials Used for Making" Lead Glass, 
the Numbers Increasing with the Q,uality. 



Silica. ^ 

Oxide of Lead 

Potash, purified... 

Saltpetre 

Carbonate of Lime . 
Borax 





Crystal 


. 




Common Flint. 


Optical. 


Paste to imitate 
Diamonds, &c. 

1 


1. 

100 


2. 

100 


3. 
100 


4. 

100 


5. 


6. 


7. 


8. 


9. 
100 


10. 
100 


11. 
100 


12. 

loo" 


13. 

100 


100 


100 


100 


100 


10 


30 


42 


45 


48 


66 


70 


80 to 85 


100 


100 


133 


154 


160 


35 


33 


33 


35 


16 


26 


40 


35 to 40 


23 


23 


13 


56 


20 




10 


lb 






7 


3 


2 to 3 




1.3 






20 


13 








8 








1 .7 


1.8 




6.3 





It has been suggested that the oxide, or 
other salt of thallium, substituted for the lead, 
makes a paste of greater brilliancy and dis- 
persive poTvers for optical purposes, and for 
imitation gems. 

2353. Ingredients for Coloring Paste 
to Imitate Gems. The following propor- 
tions must be added to 1000 parts of paste 
!N"o. 12 in the above cable of lead glass. 

2354. For Topaz. Antimony glass, 40 
parts; and 1 part gold purple (purple of cassius. 
see Nos. 2720 to 2723.) 

2355. For Ruby. A ruby color is given 
by 25 parts oxide of manganese. 

2356. For Amethyst. Oxide of manga- 
nese, 8 parts ; i part gold purple (see Nos. 2720 
to 2723), and 5 parts oxide of cobalt. 

2357. For Garnet. Antimony glass, 
500 parts ; 4 parts oxide of manganese, and 4 
parts gold purple. (See Nos. 2720 to 2723.) 

2358. For Sapphire. Take 15 parts 
9xide of cobalt. 

2359. For Aqua Marine. Take 7 parts 
antimony glass, t part oxide of cobalt. 

2360.^ For Emerald. Take 8 parts ox- 
ide of copper, i part oxide of chrome. 

2361. To Stain or Color Glass. Dif- 
ferent colors are given to glass by the addition 
of metallic oxides. Thus, for amethyst, oxide 
of manganese is used ; for Nue, oxide of co- 
balt; for brown, oxide of iron; for green, 
black oxide of copper ; for xnirple, oxide of 
gold ; for riiby red, suboxide of copper ; for 
white, oxide of tin ; for yellow, oxide of silver, 
&c. These substances are either added to the 
melted contents of the glass-pot, as in prepar- 
ing artificial gems (see No. 2419), or are ap- 
plied in a thin layer to the surface of the 
object, which is then heated until the coloring 
compound fuses as in enameling. (See No. 
2378.) 

2362. French Glass Used for Light- 
Houses. The special composition of the 
crown glass used for the light apparatus for 
light-houses was, until quite recently, kept a 
secret by the manufacturers of Saint Grobain, 
in France, and some firms in Birmingham, 
which had the monopoly of this branch of 
trade. From the researches of David M. 



Henderson, C. E., we are able to furnish the 
composition of both. The French glass is 
composed of silicic acid, 72.1 parts; soda, 12.2 
parts; and lime, 15.7 parts; including some 
traces of alumina and oxide of iron. 

2363. English Light-House Glass. 
In Birmingham it is made from 560 pounds 
French sand, 203 pounds carbonate of soda, 
63 pounds lime, 28 pounds nitrate of soda, 
and 3 pounds ajrsenious acid. The best qual- 
ities of this glass are at present produced in 
the Siemens furnace. 

2364. Liquid Spectroscopes. The use 
of transparent liquids, such as bisulphide of 
carbon, for the manufacture of lenses, is mak- 
ing rapid progress on the ground of economy ; 
large pieces of glass, free from flaw and blem- 
ish, being difficult to obtain, and expensive. 
Poggendorffs '^Annalen" calls attention to 
possible disturbances of the accuracy of liquid 
prisms, the lines in the spectrum varying with 
the temperature. The divergence, owing to 
changes of heat and cold, of the lines of solid 
prisms, is quite insignificant. A glass prism, 
heated in the sun and then removed to the 
shade, was observed to possess an increased 
refractive power as it cooled, while a bisul- 
phide prism exhibited a reversed result. These 
facts point out the importance of the use of the 
thermometer in conjunetion with the spectro- 
scope, and also show that there is room for 
great improvement in the manufacture of 
glass for optical purposes. 

2365. Prismatic Diamond Crystals 
for "Windows. A hot solution of sulphate 
of magnesia, and a clear solution of gum-ara- 
bic, mixed together. Lay it on hot. For a 
margin or for^ figures, wipe off" the part you 
wish to remain clear with a wet towel. 

2366. To Drill Glass. Wet an ordinary 
drill with petroleum or benzine; turpentine 
will answer, but not so well ; it will then bore 
common glass nearly as rapidly as steel. If 
it is intended to bore through, the glass should 
be first countersunk on each side with a driU 
dressed off" so as to form a very flat three- 
sided pyramid. Flint and plate-glass are very 
difficult to bore. It has been recently ascer- 
tained that dilute sulphuric acid is much more 



ENAMELS. 



225 



eflfective, with less wear of the tool, than oil 
of turpentine. It is stated that at Berlin, 
glass eastings for pnrap barrels etc., are drilled, 
planed and bored like iron ones, and in the 
same lathes and machines, by the aid of sul- 
phuric acid. 

2367. To Cut Glass Round or Oval 
"Without a Diamond. Scratch the glass 
around the shape you desire with the corner 
of a fQe or graver; then, having bent a piece 
of wire to the same shape, heat it red hot and 
lay it upon the scratch, sink the glass into 
cold water just deep enough for the water to 
come almost on a level with its upper surface. 

2368. To Break Glass in any Required 
"Way. Dip a piece of worsted thread in 
spirits of turpentine, wrap it round the glass 
in the direction required to be broken, and 
then set fire to the thread, or apply a red hot 
wire round the glass ; if it does not immediate- 
ly crack, throw cold water on it while the 
wire remains hot. By this means glass ves- 
sels that have been broken may often be fash- 
ioned and rendered useful for a variety of pur- 
poses. 

2369. To Break a Glass Bottle or 
Jar Across its Circximference. Place the j 
bottle in a vessel of water, to the height where 
it is designed to break it ; also fill the bottle 
to the same level. Xow pour coal oil inside 
and out on the water ; cut a ring of paper, 
fitting the bottle. Saturate with alcohol or 
benzine, so that it touches the oil. Pom-, 
also, some inside the bottle. Set on fire ; the 
cold water prevents the glass from heating 
below its surface, while the expansion caused 
by the heat will break the vessel on the water 
line. 

2370. Glass of Antimony . Roast pow- 
dered antimony in a shallow vessel over a 
gentle fire, until it turns whitish gray, and 
ceases to emit fumes at a red heat ; then heat 
it in a crucible until it fuses into a brownish 
red glass. If calcined too much, a little more 
antimony must be added to make it run well. 

2371. Writing: on Glass. This may 
be done with a piece of French chalk, or 
crayons prepared for the purpose; or even 
with a common pen held nearly perpendicular. 
India ink, or, when the article will be exposed 
to damp, shellac varnish, thickened with a 
little vermilion or lampblack, for red or black 
color, is best adapted for the purpose. Com- 
mon ink is not sufficiently opaque. 

2372. To Imitate Ground Glass. A 
ready way of imitating ground glass is to dis- 
solve Epsom salts in beer, and apply with a 
brush. As it dries it crvstallizes. 

2373. To Make Prince Rupert's; 
Drops. Prince Rupert's drops are made by 
letting drops of melted glass fall into cold wa- : 
ter ; the drops assume by that means an oval ' 
form, with a tail or neck resembling a retort. 
They possess this singular property, that if a 
small portion of the tail is broken ofi", the , 
whole bursts into powder, with an explosion, ; 
and a considerable shock is communicated to 1 
the hand that grasps it. I 

2374. To Etch on Glass. Etching with | 
hydrofluoric acid on plate glass is practiced : 
now to a very considerable extent, the French 
manufacturers especially producing splendid 
ornamental effects by this process. The 
drawings to be imitated or etched on the glass I 



are first made on stone or plate and then 
printed on unsized paper with an ink consist- 
ing principally of a solution of asphaltum in 
oil of turpentine made with the aid of heat, to 
which some substance is added which shows 
a more or less crystalline structure on cooling, 
as stearic acid, spermaceti, naphthaline, par- 
affine. This mixture is strained and rapidly 
cooled with constant stirring; it is the only 
kind of coating which thoroughly resists the 
action of the coiTosive acid. The printed pa- 
per is laid flat with the blank side on water, 
to which from 10 to 25 per cent, of muriatic 
acid has been added, and as soon as the lines 
show signs of softening the negative printing 
is transferred to the glass by a slight pressure ; 
when the paper is removed, the picture will 
adhere to the glass, and this is afterwards ex- 
posed to the fluoric vapors in leaden troughs. 

2375. To Etch or Write on Glass. A 
writer in Dingler's "Polytechnisches Journal" 
recommends a solution of fluoride of ammo- 
nium, which can be used with an ordinary 
quill, and on dryin^r leaves a distinct line. 

2376. To Enf;rave on Glass. To en- 
grave on glass, fluoric acid is used, either in 
the liquid state or in vapor. This acid is kept 
in metal bottles, and requires very careful 
handling. The glass must be warmed, and 
coated with wax, or engravers' cement, and 
the writing or design traced through the wax 
with a pointed instrument. The liquid fluoric 
acid is pom*ed on it, and left to act on the un- 
covered portions of the glass ; or pour some 
of the acid in a small lead pan, which place- 
in a still larger vessel filled with sand ; heat 
the sand and place the glass object over the- 
gas liberated from the heated acid, and it will' 
soon be found to be beautifully etched. Great 
care must be taken when this is going on, for 
the gas, as well as the acid, is of a very dele- 
terious character. The same effect may be 
produced by the use of fluorspar, powdered 
and made into a paste with oil of vitriol, laid 
over the prepared surface, and covered with 
lead-foil or tea-lead ; or bruised fluorspar is 
put in a wedgwood evaporating basin, with 
sufficient oil of vitriol to form a thin paste, 
and the prepared glass laid over the basin, so 
that the vapors may act on the portions from 
which the wax has been removed. 

2377. Glass of Borax. Calcine borax 
with a strong heat till the water of crystalli- 
zation is expelled, and the salt fuses into a 
clear glass. 



Enamels. a species of vitreous 
varnish, colored by means of metallic 
oxides {see No. 2393) and applied in a thin 
stratum to brightly polished metallic surfaces 
(copper or gold), on which it is fused by the 
flame of a blowpipe, or by the heat of a small 
furnace. The basis of all enamels is a highly 
transparent and fusible glass, called frit, Jlux, 
OT paste. 

2379. Base Frit or Flux for Enamels. 
The precise qualities of the products of the 
following processes depend greatly upon the 
duration and degree of heat employed. By 
increasing the quantity of sand, glass, or flux, 
the enamel is rendered more fusible, and the 
opacity and whiteness is increased by the addi- 



226 



ENAMELS. 



tion of oxide of tin. The use of borax should 
be avoided, or used very sparingly, as it is 
apt to make the enamel effloresce and lose 
color. 

I. Eed lead, 16 parts; calcined borax, 3 
parts; powdered flint glass, 12 parts; pow- 
dered flints, 4 parts; fuse in a Hessian crucible 
for 12 hours, then pour it out into water, and 
reduce it to a powder in a biscuit- ware (unglaz- 
cd porcelain) mortar. 

II. Powdered flints, 10 parts; nitre and 
white arsenic, of each 1 part as last. 

III. Flint glass, 3 ounces; red lead, 1 ounce; 
as last. 

IT. Eed lead, 18 parts ; borax (not calcin- 
ed), 11 parts; flint glass, 16 parts; as last. 

Y. Flint glass, 6 parts; flux ]^o. II, above, 
4 parts; red lead, 8 parts; as last. 

YI. Tin, 2 to 5 parts ; lead, 10 parts ; cal- 
cine in an iron pot at a dull cherry-red heat, 
and scrape off the oxide as it forms, observing 
to obtain it quite free from undecomposed 
metal ; when enough of the dross is obtained, 
reduce it to fine powder by grinding and elu- 
triation {see No. 14), then mir. 4 parts of this 
powder with an equal weight of pure sand or 
powdered flints, and 1 of sea-salt, or other 
^alkaline matter; fuse the mixture in a Hessian 
crucible, and proceed as before. The best 
proportions of the tin and lead, for all ordinary 
purposes, are about 3 of the former to 10 of 
the latter. The calcined mixed oxides are 
commonly called calcine. 

YII. Lead and tin, equal parts ; calcine as 
above ; and take of the mixed oxides, or cal- 
cine {see preceding receipt) and ground flints, 
of each 1 part ; pure subcarbonate of potash, 

2 parts; as before. 

YIII. Lead, 30 parts; tin, 33 parts; calcine 
as before, then mix 50 parts of the calcine 
with an equal weight of flints, in powder, and 
1 pound of salts of tartar ; as before. A fine 
dead white enamel. 

2380. Black Enamels. I. Pure clay, 

3 parts ; protoxide of iron, 1 part ; mix and 
fuse. A fine black. 

II. Calcined iron (protoxide), 12 parts; ox- 
ide of cobalt, 1 part ; mix, and add an equal 
weight of white flux. {See No. 2396.) 

III. Peroxide ofmanganese, 3parts; zaffre, 
1 part ; mix and add it as required to white 
flux. Zafli'e is crude oxide of cobalt. 

2381. Blue Enamels. Either of the 
white fluxes colored with oxide of cobalt. 

II. Sand, red lead, and nitre, of each 10 
parts ; flint glass or ground flints, 20 parts ; 
oxide of cobalt, 1 part, more or less, the quan- 
tity depending on the depth of color required. 

2382. Brown Enamels. I. Red lead 
and calcined iron, of each 1 part ; antimony, 
litharge, and sand, of each 2 parts; mix and 
udd it in any required proportion to a flux, 
according to the color desired. A little oxide 
of cobalt or zafire is frequently added, and 
^ters the shade of brown. 

II. Manganese, 5 parts; red lead, 16 parts; 
flint powder, 8 parts ; mix. 

III. Manganese, 9 parts ; red lead, 34 parts ; 
' flint powder, 16 parts. 

2383. Green Enamels. I. Flux, 2 
pounds ; black oxide of copper, 1 ounce ; red 
oxide of iron, ^ drachm ; mix. 

IL As above, but use the red oxide of cop- 
per. Less decisive. 



III. Copper dust and litharge, of each S 
ounces ; nitre, 1 ounce ; sand, 4 ounces ; flux, 
as much as required. 

lY. Add oxide of chrome to a sufllcient 
quantity of flux to produce the desired 
shade; when well managed the color is su- 
perb, and will stand a very great heat ; but in 
careless hands, it frequently turns on the 
dead-leaf tinge. 

Y. Transparent flux, 5 ounces ; black oxide 
of copper, 2 scruples ; oxide of chrome, 9 
grains. Resembles the emerald. 

YI. Mix blue and yelloAv enamel in the re- 
quired proportions. 

2384. Olive Enamels. Good blue en- 
amel, 2 parts ; black and yellow enamels, of 
each Ipart; mix. {See Brown Enamels.) 

2385. Orange Enamels. I. Red lead, 
12 parts ; red sulphate of iron and oxide of 
antimony, of each 1 part; flint powder, 3 
parts ; calcine, powder, and melt with flux, 50 
parts. 

II. Red lead, 12 parts ; oxide of antimony, 
4 parts ; flint powder, 3 parts ; red sulphate of 
iron, 1 part ; calcine, then add flux, 5 parts to 
every 2 parts of this mixture. 

2386. Purple Enamels. I. Flux col- 
ored with oxide of gold, purple precipitate of 
cassius {see Nos. 2720 to 2723), or peroxide 
of manganese. 

II. Sulphur, nitre, vitriol, antimony, and 
oxide of tin, of each 1 pound ; red lead, 60 
pounds ; mix and fuse, cool and powder ; add 
rose copper, 19 ounces ; zafii-e, 1 ounce ; cro- 
cus martis, 11 ounces; borax, 3 ounces; and 1 
pound of a compound formed of gold, silver, 
and mercury ; fuse, stirring the melted mass 
with a copper rod all the time, then place it 
in crucibles, and submit them to the action of 
a reverberator}^ furnace for 24 hours. This is 
said to be the pui-ple enamel used in the mo- 
saic pictures of St. Peter's at Rome. 

2387. Dark Red Enamel. Sulphate 
of iron (calcined dark), 1 part; a mixture of 
6 parts of flux lY. {in No. 2379) and 1 of 
colcothar, 3 parts. 

2388. Light Red Enamel. Red sul- 
phate of iron, 2 parts; flux I {in No. 2379) 6 
parts ; white lead, 3 parts. Light red. 

2389. Red Enamel. Paste or flux col- 
ored with the red or protoxide of copper. 
Should the color pass into the green or brown, 
from the partial peroxidizement of the copper, 
from the heat being raised too high, the red 
color may be restored by the addition of any 
carbonaceous matter, as tallow, or charcoal. 

2390. Beautiful Red Enamel. The 
most beautiful and costly red, inclining to the 
purple tinge, is produced by tinging glass or 
flux with the oxide or salts of gold, or with 
the purple precipitate of cassius {see Nos. 
2720 to 2723), which consists of gold and tin. 
In the hands of the skillful artist, any of 
these substances produce shades of red of the 
most exquisite hue ; when most perfect, the 
enamel comes from the fire quite colorless, 
and afterwards receives its rich hue from the 
flame of the blow-pipe. 

2391. Rose Colored Enamels. Pur- 
ple enamel, or its elements, 3 parts ; flux, 90 
parts ; mix, and add silver-leaf or oxide of 
silver, 1 part or less. 

2392. Transparent Enamels. Either 
of the first five fluxes in ^o. 2379. 



GLAZES, 



227 



2393. Violet Enamels. Saline or alka- 
line frits or fluxes colored with small quanti- 
ties of peroxide of manganese. As the color 
depends on the metal being at the maximum 
of oxidation, contact with all substances that 
would abstract any of its oxygen should be 
avoided. The same remarks apply to other 
metallic oxides. 

2394. Yellow Enamels. Superior yel- 
low enamels are less easily produced than most 
other colors ; they require but little flux, and 
that mostly of a metaUic nature. I. Red lead, 
8 ounces ; oxide of antimony and tin, calcined 
together, each 1 ounce; mix, and add flux 
IT. {in No. 2379), 15 ounces; mix and fuse. 
By varying the proportion of the ingredients, 
various shades may be produced. 

II. Lead, tin ashes, litharge, antimony, and 
sand, each 1 ounce ; nitre, 4 ounces ; mix, fuse, 
and powder, and add the product to any 
quantity of flux, according to the color re- 
quu-ed. 

III. Flux fused with oxide of lead, and a 
little red oxide of iron. 

IT. Pure oxide of silver added to the me- 
tallic fluxes. The salts of silver are also 
used, but are difficult to manage. If a thin 
film of oxide of silver be spread over the sur- 
face of the enamel to be colored, exposed to a 
moderate heat, then withdrawn, and the film 
of reduced silver on the surface removed, the 
part under vrill be found tinged of a fine yel- 
low. 

2395. Bright Yellow Enamel. White 
oxide of antimony, alum, and sal ammoniac, 
each 1 part; pure carbonate of lead, 1 to 3 
parts, as required, all in powder; mix, and ex- 
pose to a heat sufficiently high to decompose 
the sal ammoniac. 

2396. Dead- White Enamel. For white 
enamel, the articles must be perfectly free 
from foreign admixture, as this would impart 
a color. TThen well managed, either of the 
following forms will produce a paste that will 
rival the opal. Calcine (from 2 parts of tin 
and 1 part of lead calcined together), 1 part ; 
fine crystal or frit, 2 parts; a very trifling 
quantity of manganese ; powder, mix, melt, 
and pour the fused mass into clean water ; 
dry, powder, and again fuse, and repeat the 
whole process 3 or 4 times, observing to avoid 
contamination with smoke, dirt, or oxide of 
iron. 

2397. Fine White Enamel. Washed 
diaphoretic antimony, 1 part ; fine glass (per- 
fectly free from lead), 3 parts ; mix, and pro- 
ceed as before. 

2398. To Make Black Enamel for 
Gold or Silver. Melt together in a crucible, 
1 part, by weight, of silver, 5 parts copper, 7 
parts lead, and 5 parts muriate of ammonia. 
Add to this mixture twice its quantity of pul- 
verized sulphur, covering the crucible imme- 
diately. Let it calcine until the excess of 
sulphur has passed ofl". Then pound the com- 
pound to coarse powder and make it into a 
paste with a solution of muriate of ammonia. 
This is the black enamel used for jewelry. 

2399. To Black Enamel Gold or Sil- 
ver. Place some of the enamel paste, as pre- 
pared in the preceding receipt, on the article 
to be enameled ; hold it over a spirit lamp 
until the enamel melts and flows upon it. It 
may then be smoothed and polished. 



2400. Black or Enameled Copper. 

The beautiful enameled surface possessed b}" 
paintings on copper, may be produced, on a 
black grcmnd, by the following process : Clean 
the copper with sand and sulphuric acid, and 
then apply the following mixture : 2 parts 
white arsenic, 4 parts hydrochloric acid, 1 sul- 
phuric acid, and 24 water. 

2401. Enamel for Labels, Signboards, 
etc. The fine enamels of trade are generally 
prepared by fusing at high temperatures, 
silica, oxide of tin, and oxide of lead, and 
spreading the mixture over the surface of a 
sheet of copper, gold, or platinum. The ob- 
jections to these enamels are, in the first place 
their high cost, and secondly the impossibility 
of giving them a perfectly flat surface. Mr. 
E. Duchemin has advantageously replaced 
them by the following economical and efficient 
compound : 

2402. Duchemin's Enamel for Labels, 
etc. Arsenic, 30 parts by weight ; saltpetre, 
30 parts; silica (fine sand), 90 parts; litharge, 
250 parts. This is spread on plates of glass 
of the required shape and size, care being 
taken, however, that the kind of glass em- 
ployed be not inferior in point of fusibility to 
the enamel. Enameled glass prepared from 
the above substances may be drawn or written 
on as readily as if it were paper, and in less 
time than one minute the writing may be 
rendered indelible by simply heating the plate 
in a small open furnace or muffle. Drawings, 
autographs, legal acts, public documents, his- 
torical facts and dates of importance, labels 
for horticultural purposes or destined for out- 
of-door exposure, coffin plates, signboards, 
show-case signs, etc., may thus be cheaply 
made, which will resist atmospheric influences 
for ages. First-class photographs, either pos- 
itives or negatives, may be taken on such en- 
amels without collodion. {See Plwtograplis 
on Enamel.) 

2403. Enamel for Iron Hollow Ware. 
The enamel of iron hollow ware is made of 
powdered flints, ground with calcined borax, 
fine clay, and a little feldspar. This mixture 
is made into a paste with water and brushed 
over the pots after they have been scoured 
with diluted sulphuric acid and rinsed clean 
with water. While stiU moist they are 
dusted over with a glaze composed of feldspar, 
carbonate of sodium, borax, and a little oxide 
of tin. Thus prepared, the pots are gradually 
dried and then the glaze is fired or fused under 
a muffle at a bright red heat. Oxide of lead, 
although increasing the fusibility of the glaze, 
impairs its efficiency, as it will not resist the 
action of acids in cooking. 



Gl8;Z6S. Glazes must be reduced to 
a very fine powder. For use they are 
ground with water to a very thin paste or 
smooth cream, into which the articles, pre- 
viously baked to the state called "Tjiscuit," 
are then dropped; they are afterwards exposed 
to a sufficient heat in the kiln to fuse the 
glaze. Another method of applying them is 
to immerse the biscuit in water for a minute 
or so, and then to sprinkle the dry powder 
over the moistened surface. 



ARTIFICIAL aEMS. 



2405. White Glazing. Prepare an in- 
timate mixture of 4 parts massicot {see Index), 

2 parts tin ashes, 3 of crystal glass fragments, 
and ^ part sea salt. The mixture is suffered 
to melt in earthenware vessels, when the li- 
quid flux may be made use of. 

2406. Yellow Glazing. Take equal 
parts of massicot, red lead, and sulphuret of 
antimony. Calcine the mixture and reduce it 
again to powder, add then 2 parts of pure 
sand and I5 parts of salt. Melt the whole. 

2407. Green Glazing. Sand, 2 parts; 

3 parts massicot, 1 part of salt and copper 
scales, according to the shade to he produced. 
The mixture is melted as directed above. 

2408. Violet Glazing. Massicot, 1 part ; 
3 parts sand, 1 of smalt, and ^ part black oxide 
of manganese. 

2409. Blue Glazing. "White sand and 
massicot, equal parts, ^ part of blue smalt. 

2410. Black Glazing. Black oxide of 
manganese, 2 parts ; 1 of smalt, l-^- of burned 
quartz, and li massicot. 

241 1 . Brown Glazing. Take 1 part bro- 
ken green bottle glass, 1 of manganese, and 2 
parts lead glass. 

2412. Glaze without Lead. Common 
earthenware is glazed with a composition con- 
taining lead, on which account it is unfit for 
many purposes. The following glaze has been 
proposed, among others, as a substitute : 100 
parts washed sand, 80 parts purified potash, 
10 of nitre, and 20 of slacked lime, all well 
mixed, and heated in a black-lead crucible, in 
a reverberatory furnace, till the mass flows 
into a clear glass. It is then to be reduced to 
powder. The goods to be slightly burnt, 
dipped in water, and sprinkled with the pow- 
der. 

2413. Glaze for Porcelain. Feldspar, 
27 parts; borax, 18 parts; Lynn sand, 4 parts; 
nitre, 3 parts ; soda, 3 parts ; Cornwall china- 
clay, 3 parts. Melt together to form a frit, 
and reduce it to a powder with 3 parts calcined 
borax. 

2414. Metallic Lustres for Pottery. 
The appearance of a lustrous metallic surface 
is given to vessels of stoneware, <fec., by ap- 
plying the lustre over an easily-fusible glaze 
to the outer surface of the vessel, after which 
adhesure is produced by exposing it to a slight 
degree of heat. They are then polished with 
cotton or leather. The principal lustres are 
given in the following receipts : 

2415. Gold Lustre. Dissolve 1 drachm 
grain-gold in f ounce aqua-regia, add 6 grains 
metallic tin to the solution. When dissolved, 
pour it gradually, with constant stirring, into 
a mixture of 2 drachm balsam of sulphur, 
{see Index), and 20 grains oil of turpentine. 
"When the mass begins to stiffen, an additional 
i drachm oil of turpentine must be added and 
well mixed in. More gold deepens and bright- 
ens the lustre ; more tin turns it on the violet 
or purple. Applied as in ISTo. 2414. 

2416. Iron Lustre. This is a mixture 
of muriate of iron and spirit of tar. Used ac- 
cording to N'o. 2414. 

2417. Platinum Lustre. To bichloride 
of platinum (a solution of platina in aqua- 
regia), is added drop by drop a mixture of 
spirit of tar and balsam of sulphur in equal 
proportions, until by a trial the composition is 
found to give the required result. This gives 



the appearance of polished steel. (See No. 
2414.) 

2418. Silver Lustre. Eeduce ammonio- 
chloride of platinum to an impalpable powder; 
grind it to the requisite consistence with a 
little spirit of tar, and apply with a brush as 
directed in ]^o. 2414. 



Artificial G-emS. These consist 
jC^^of vitreous compounds made in imita- 
tion of gems and precious stones. Like en- 
amels, the artificial gems have for their basis 
a very fusible, highly transparent and bril- 
liant dense glass, which is known under the 
name of frit, paste, strass, mayence base, 
&G., and which, in its state of greatest excel- 
lence, consitutes the artificial diamond. As 
the strass or base enters largely into the man- 
ufacture of imitation gems, we give the meth- 
od for making it first. It is absolutely ne- 
cessary, to ensure success in the following re- 
ceipts, that the substances employed be per- 
fectly free from impurities, particularly those 
of a mineral nature. Litharge, oxide of lead, 
and carbonate of lead especially, must be 
entirely free from oxide of tin, as the smallest 
particle of this imparts milkinessto the paste. 
All the ingredients must be separately re- 
duced to powder; and, after being mixed, 
sifted through lawn. For the finer kinds of 
mock diamonds, rock crystal should alone be 
employed; when sand is used, the purest 
white variety should be selected, and be 
washed thoroughly, first with muriatic acid 
and then with water, to remove any traces of 
earthy matter. Much of the minute detail in 
making artificial gems can only be acquired 
by experience. The fusion must be carefully 
conducted and continuous, and the melted 
mass allowed to cool very slowly, after having 
been left hi the fire for 24 to 30 hours at 
least. Hessian crucibles are preferred for this 
purpose, and the heat of an ordinary porce- 
lain, kiln is usually sufficient; but a small 
wind-furnace, devoted exclusively to the pui'- 
pose, is in general more convenient. It is 
found that the more tranquil, continuous and 
uniform the fusion, the denser and clearer is 
the paste, and the greater its refractive pow- 
er and beauty. All the colored vitreous com- 
pounds noticed as enamels (see No. 2378, ^c.) 
may be worked up in this way into ornam ent- 
al stones. It may be further observed that 
the beauty of pastes or imitation gems, and 
especially the brilliancy of mock diamonds, is 
greatly dependent on the cutting, setting up, 
and the skillful arrangement of the foil or tin- 
sel behind them. (See Enamels, No. 2378, 
4^c.; Foils, No. 2447, cjx.) 

2420. Diamond Paste, or Strass. 
Litharge, 20 parts ; silica, 12 parts; nitre and 
borax, each 4 parts ; white arsenic, 2 parts ; 
powder mix, fuse in a crucible, pour the 
melted mass into water, separate any reduced 
lead, and again powder and re-melt. 

2421. Mayence Base, or Strass. Sili- 
ca (quartz, flint or rock crystal), 8 ounces; 
salt of tartar, 24 ounces; mix, bake, cool, 
wash with dilute nitric acid, and afterwards 
with water ; dry, powder, add 12 ounces pure 
carbonate of lead, and to every 12 ounces of 



ABTIl'ICIAL GEMS. 



229 



the mixture add borax, 1 ounce ; triturate in 
a porcelain mortar, melt in a clean crucible, 
and pour the fused compound into cold water; 
dry, powder, and repeat the process a second 
and a third time in a clean crucible, observing 
to separate any revived lead. To the third 
frit add nitre, 5 drachms, and again melt. 
Yery brilliant. Or: Carbonate of lead, 8 oun- 
ces; powdered borax, 2 ounces; rock crystal, 
3 ounces ; manganese, h grain ; mix, and pro- 
ceed as last. 

2422. Patent Base for Artificial 
Gems. The base of these gems, as patented 
by the Superintendent of the Royal Porcelain 
Works at Berlin, is a flux obtained by melting 
together 6 drachms carbonate of soda, 2 
drachms burnt borax, 1 drachm saltpetre, 3 
drachms minium, and I5 ounces purest white 
sand. 

2423. Loysel's Strass or Paste. Pure 
silex (flint or quartz), 100 parts; red oxide of 
lead (minium), 150 parts ; calcined potash, 30 
tp 35 parts ; calcined borax, 10 parts ; arseni- 
ous acid, 1 part. This produces a paste which 
has great brilliancy and refractive and dispers- 
ive powers, and also a similar specific gravity 
to the oriental diamond. It fuses at a moder- 
ate heat, and acquires the greatest brilliancy 
when re-melted, and kept for 2 or 3 days in a 
fused state, in order to expel the superabund- 
ant alkali, and perfect the refining. 

2424. Fontanier's Base for Artificial 
Gems. Mix together 8 ounces pure sihca 
and 24 ounces salt of tartar ; bake, cool, wash 
with dilute nitric acid, and afterwards with 
water ; dry, powder, add 12 ounces pure car- 
bonate of lead, and to every 12 ounces of the 
mixture add borax, 1 ounce ; triturate in a 
porcelain mortar, melt in a clean crucible, and 
pour the fused compound into cold water; 
dry, powder, and repeat the process a second 
and a third time in a clean crucible, observing 
to separate any revived lead. To the third 
frit add nitre, 5 drachms, and again melt. 
The product is perfectly limpid and extremely 
brilliant. 

2425. Doualt-Wi61and's Paste or 
Strass. Eock crystal, 4056 grains ; minium, 
6300 grains ; potash, 2154 grains ; borax, 276 
grains; arsenic, 12 grains. Or: Sand, 3600 
grains ; pure carbonate of lead, 8508 grains ; 
potash, 1260 grains; borax, 360 grains; ar- 
senic, 12 grains. 

2426. Lancon's Paste or Strass. Li- 
tharge, 100 grains; silex, 75 grains; white 
tartar or potash. 10 grains. 

2427. Red Cornelian. Strass, 2 pounds; 
glass of antimony, 1 pound ; calcined perox- 
ide of iron (rouge), 2 ounces; manganese, 1 
drachm. 

2428. White Cornelian. Strass, 2 
pounds; washed yellow ochre, 2 drachms; 
calcined bones, 1 ounce. 

2429. Oriental Garnet or Carbuncle. 
Fuse 512 grains paste, 256 grains glass of an- 
timony, 2 grains purple of cassius, and 2 
grains oxide of manganese. Or: 359 gi-ains 
paste, 178 gi-ains glass of antimony, and 2 
grains oxide of manganese. 

2430. Vinegar^Gamet. Take 2 pounds 
paste, 1 pound glass of antimony, and I ounce 
oxide of iron. 

2431. Opal. Take 1 ounce paste. 10 
grains horn silver, 2 grains calcined magnetic 



ore, 26 grains calcined bones. Or : 10 pounds 
paste, and l pound calcined bones. 

2432. Ruby. Take 40 parts paste, and 
1 part oxide of manganese. Or: 1 part topa2 
paste that has turned out opaque, and 8 parts 
strass ; fuse for 30 hours, cool, and fuse small 
pieces before a blow-pipe. Or: 8 ounces strass, 
84 grains each precipitate of cassius (see Nos. 
2720 to 2723), peroxide of iron, golden sul- 
phuret of antimony, and manganese calcined 
with nitre ; add 1 ounce or more of rock crys- 
tal. Or : 1 pound paste and 3 drachms pur- 
ple of cassius. Or : 4 ounces paste, 4 ounces 
glass of antimony, and f drachm purple of 
cassius ; this turns on the orange. 

2433. Sapphire. Fuse 1152 parts paste 
and 68 parts oxide of cobalt for 30 hours in a 
luted Hessian crucible. Or: 8 ounces paste 
and 49 grains oxide of cobalt. A little man- 
ganese may be added to this last receipt. 

2434. Topaz. Melt 96 grains paste 
and 1 gi'ain calcined peroxide of iron. Or : 
1008 grains paste, 43 grains glass of anti- 
mony, and 1 grain pm-ple of cassius. (See 
Xos. 2720 to 212?,.) 

2435. Turquois. Take 10 pounds blue 
paste, -^ pound calcined bones. 

2436. Yellow Diamond. Take 1 ounce 
strass, and 10 grains glass of antimony. Or: 
1 ounce strass and 24 gi'ains chloride of silver. 

I 2437. Chrysolite. Strass, 5 pounds; 
1 calcined peroxide of iron, 3 to 4 drachms. 

2438. Eagle Marine. Paste of strass, 
1 10 pounds ; copper highly calcined with sul- 
phur (copper-stain), 3 ounces; zafire, 1 scruple. 

2439. Emerald. Lan§on's paste (see 
Xo. 2426), 9612 grains; acetate of copper, 72 
grains; peroxide of iron, Ingrains. Or: Dou- 
ault-^ieland paste (seeXo. 2425), 4608 grains; 
green oxide of copper, 42 grains; oxide of 
chrome, 2 grains. Or : Paste, 1 ounce ; glass 
of antimony, 20 grains; oxide of cobalt, 3 
grains. Or": Paste, 15 ounces; carbonate of 
copper, 1 drachm ; glass of antimony, 6 grains. 

2440. Lapis Lazuli. Paste, 10 pounds ; 
calcined horn or bones, 12 ounces ; oxides of 
cobalt and manganese, of each, 5 ounce ; mix. 
The golden veins are produced by painting 
them on with a mixture of goM powder, 
borax, and gum water, and gently heating till 
the borax fluxes. 

2441. Amethyst. Take 500 grains paste, 
3 grains oxide of manganese, and 2 grains ox- 
ide of cobalt. Or: 4608 grains paste, 36 
grains oxide of manganese, 24 grains oxide of 
cobalt, and 1 grain'purple of cassuis. (See 
Xos. 2720 to 2723.) Or: 9216 grains paste, 
15 to 24 grains oxide of manganese, and 1 
grain oxide of cobalt. 

2442. Aqua Marina, or Beryl. Take 
3200 grains paste, 20 grains glass of antimony, 
and 1 grain oxide of cobalt. Or: 2304 gi'ains 
paste, 16 grains glass of antimony, and 1 

! grain oxide of cobalt. 

! 2443. Aventurine, or Gold Stone. 
Fuse 10 grains scales of iron, 50 grains paste, 

^ and 5 grains protoxide of copper, until the 

, copper is reduced to metaUic form, then allow 

1 the mass to cool very slowly, so that the 
minute crystals of metal become equally dif- 
fused through it. By substituting oxide of 

I chromium for the protoxide of copper, the 
stone appears brown, filled with minute gold 

: spangles; or by using a less quantity of the 



230 



FOILS. 



chrommm, a greenish gray stone, filled with 
green spangles, is produced. 

2444. Parisian Diamonds. These 
beautiful imitations of the gem are merely 
fused oxide of tin. It is a pity that their bril- 
liancy is not permanent, as they become quite 
dull in time. 

2445. Boettger's Artificial Rubies. 
Moisten recently precipitated and well washed 
hydrate of alumina, with a few drops of neu- 
tral chromate of potassa, and kneaded so that 
the mass assumes a scarcely perceptible tinge; 
then roll it out into small sticks, about the 
thickness of a finger, and diy them slowly, 
filKng up any cracks that may occur in drying 
with fresh hydrate of aiumina. IVTien per- 
fectly dry, warm a stick a little, and bring a 
portion into the end of the flame of a com- 
pound (oxyhydrogen) blow-pipe. In a few 
minutes several minute balls form, of such in- 
tense hardness as to scratch quartz, glass, and 
granite. These, however, when cut and pol- 
ished, appear slightly opaque. 

2446. Boettger's Artificial Emerald. 
This is made in the same manner as his rubies, 
by employing nitrate of nickel instead of the 
chromate of potassa. The same plan, substi- 
tuting oxide of chromium for chromate of 
potassa, will produce gems of considerable 
hardness and beauty, though slightly opaque; 
which may, however, be lessened by the addi- 
tion of a very little silica. 



Foils. These are leaves of polished 
metal, put under stones or pastes, to 
heighten the eff'ect. Foils were formerly 
made of copper, tinned copper, tin, and sil- 
vered copper, but the latter is used for superior 
work at the present day. There are two 
descriptions of foils employed, viz.: white, for 
diamonds and mock diamonds, and colored, for 
the colored gems. The latter are prepared by 
varnishing the former. By their judicious use 
the color of a stone may be often modified. 
Thus, by placing a yellow foil under a green 
stone that turns too much on the blue, or a 
red one tm-ning too much on the crimson, the 
hues wiU be brightened. By the skiUful use 
of the following varnishes, good imitations of 
the gems may be cheaply made from transpa- 
rent white glass or paste, and when applied to 
foils set under colored pastes, (factitious 
gems), a superior effect may be produced. 
The colors must be reduced to the fiiiest state 
possible by patient grinding, as without this 
precaution, transparent and beautiful shades 
cannot be formed. The palest and cleanest 
mastich, and lac dissolved in alcohol, and also 
the palest and quickest drying oil, should 
alone be employed, when these substances 
are ordered. In every case the colors must 
be laid on the foils with a broad soft brush, 
and the operation should be performed, if 
possible, at once, as no part should be crossed, 
or twice gone over while wet. 

2448. .White or Common Foil. This 
is made by coating a plate of copper with a 
layer of silver, and then rolling it into sheets 
in the flatting mill. The foil is then highly 
polished or varnished. 

2449. Colored Foils. These are made 
by coloring the preceding foil, highly polished, 



with certain transparent solutions or vamishea 
The following produce beautiful colored ef- 
fects, when judiciously employed. 

2450. Blue Foil. Prussian blue, ground 
with pale, quick-drying oil. Used to deepen 
the color of sapphires. It may be diluted 
with oil. 

2451. Green Foil. Pale shellac, dis- 
solved ia alcohol (lacquer), and tinged green 
by dissolving verdigris or acetate of copper in 
it. Or: Sesquiferrocyanm-et of iron and 
bichromate of potassa, of each i ounce ; grind 
them with a stone and muller to a fine powder, 
add gum mastich (clean and also in fiie pow- 
der), 2 ounces ; grind again, add a little py- 
roxilic spirit, and again grind until the mass 
becomes homogeneous and of a fine transpa- 
rent green; the beauty increases with the- 
length of the grinding. The predominance of 
the bichromate turns it on the yellowish 
green ; that of the salt of iron, on the bluish 
green. For use it is to be thinned with 
pyroxihc spirit. This is used for emeralds. 
It may be brightened by adding a little yellow 
varnish. 

2452. Yellow Foil. Yarious shades 
of yeUow may be produced by tinging a weak 
alcohohc solution of shellac or mastich, by 
digesting turmeric, annotto, saffron, or soco- 
trine aloes therein. The former is the bright- 
est and most fit for topazes. Or : Digest hay 
saffron in 5 or 6 times its weight of boiling 
water, until the latter becomes sufficiently 
colored ; filter, and add a little solution of gum 
or isinglass. TV^hen dry, a coating of spirit 
varnish should be applied. 

2453. Red Foil. Carmine dissolved in 
spirits of hartshorn, or a weak solution of salt 
of tartar, and gum added as above. 

2454. Garnet Foil. Dragon's blood 
dissolved in rectified spirit of wine. {See No. 
2449.) 

2455. Vinegar Garnet Foil. White 
foil {see No. 2449) varnished with orange lake 
finely tempered with shellac varnish, 

2456. Amethyst Foil. Lake and 
Prussian blue, ground fine in pale drying oil, 

2457. Eagle Marine Foil. Yerdigris 
tempered in shellac varnish (alcoholic), with 
a little Prussian blue. T^ith this varnish 
white foil. {See No. 2449.) 

2458. Ruby Foil. Lake or carmine,, 
ground in isinglass. Or : Lake ground in 
sheUac varnish. Used when the color turns 
on the purple. Or : Bright lake ground in 
oil ; used when the color tu.rns on the scarlet 
or orange. Either of these are applied to 
white foil. (See No. 2449.) 

2459. To Make an Imitation Dia- 
mond more Brilliant. Cover the inside of 
the socket in which the stone or paste is to 
be set with tin foil, by means of a little stiff" 
gum or size ; when dry, polish the surface, 
heat the socket, fill it with warm quicksilver^ 
let it rest for 2 or 3 minutes, after which pour 
it out and gently fit in the stone ; lastly, well 
close the work round the stone, to prevent 
the alloy being shaken out. Or : Coat the 
bottom of the stone with a film of real silver, 
by precipitating it from a solution of the nitrate 
in spirits of ammonia, by means of the oils of 
cassia and cloves. {See Silvering Glass.) 
Both these methods vastly increase the bril- 
liancy both of real and factitious gems. 



INKS. 



231 



Inks. "Writing inks mi^ht be included 
under the general term ot liquid coloring 
matters, were it not that they require to have 
the special characteristics of biiiliance, per- 
manence, and some degree of indestructibility, 
combined with perfect fluidity, in order to 
fulfill the objects for which they are generally 
. used. Printing and lithographic and other 
inks are also included under this heading. 

2461. Black Ink. According to the 
most accurate experiments on the preparation 
of black ink, it appears that the quantity of 
sulphate of iron should not exceed ^ part of 
that of the galls, by which an excess of color- 
ing matter, which is necessary for the dura- 
bihty of the black, is preserved in the liquid. 
Gum, by shielding the writing from the action 
of the air, tends to preserve the color, but if 
much is employed, the ink flows badly from 
quill pens, and scarcely at all from steel pens. 
The latter require a very limpid ink. The ad- 
dition of sugar increases the flowing propertj^ 
of ink, but makes it dry more slowly, and fre- 
quently passes into vinegar, when it acts in- 
juriously on the pen. Yinegar, for a like 
reason, is not calculated for the fluid ingredi- 
ent. The best blue galls should alone be em- 
ployed in making ink. Sumach, logwood, 
and oak bark, are frequently substituted for 
galls in the preparation of common ink. 
When such is the case, only about one-sixth 
or one-seventh of their weight of copperas 
should be employed. 

2463. To Prevent Ink from Mould- 
ing. The addition of a few bruised cloves, or 
a little oil of cloves, or, still better, a few 
drops of creosote, will eifectually prevent any 
tendency to mouldiness in ink. 

2463. Fine Black Ink. Aleppo galls 
(well bruised), 4 ounces ; clean so/^ water, 1 
quart ; macerate in a clean corked bottle for 
10 days, or even longer, with frequent agita- 
tion; then add li ounces gum-arabic (dis- 
solved in a wine-glassful of water) ; lump 
sugar 5 ounce ; mix well, and afterwards 
further add I5 ounces sulphate of iron (green 
copperas) crushed small, agitate occasionally 
for 2 or 3 days, when the ink may be decanted 
for use ; but it is better if left to digest together 
for 2 or 3 weeks. "When time is an object, 
the whole of the ingredients may be at once 
put into a bottle, and the latter agitated 
daily, until the ink is made ; and boiling wa- 
ter instead of cold water may be employed. 
The above will make 1 quart of beautiful ink, 
"writing pale at first, but soon turning intense- 
ly black. 

2464. Cooley's Superior Black Ink. 
Bruised Aleppo nut-galls, 12 pounds ; water, 
6 gallons ; boil in a copper vessel for 1 hour, 
adding water to make up for the portion lost 
by evaporation; strain and again boil the galls 
with water, 4 gallons, for | hour, strain off the 
liquor and boil a third time with water, 2| 
gallons, and strain ; mix the several liquors, 
and while still hot add gi*een copperas (sul- 
phate of iron) coarsely powdered, 4 pounds; 
gum-arabic bruised small, 3^ pounds; agitate 
until dissolved, and, when settled, strain 
through a hair sieve, and keep it in a bunged- 
up cask for use. This will produce 12 gallons, 
very fine and durable. 

This ink, and that in Xo. 2463, are good. 
Cooley recommends them very highly. He 



says that they are very durable and limpid, 
and will bear dilution with nearly an equal 
bulk of water, and still be superior in quality 
to ordinary inks. Of the latter ink he says 
that he has writing that was executed with 
this kind of ink upwards of 60 years ago, 
which still possesses a good color. 

2465. Black Ink. Campeachy logwood 
chips, 3 pounds; bruised galls, 9 pounds ; boil 
in water, and to the mixed liquors add gum- 
arabic and green copperas, of each 4 pounds ; 
to produce 16 2 gallons of ink. Quality very 
good, but inferior to the above. 

2466. Asiatic Black Ink. Logwood 
shavings and powdered galls, of each 2 pounds ; 
green, vitriol, 1 pound ; gum, | pound ; pome- 
granate bark, J pound; water, 1 gallon; in- 
fuse 14 days with frequent agitation, or boil as 
directed in last receipt. This ink writes pale, 
but flows well from the pen, and soon turns 
black. 

2467. Good Black Ink. Bruised galls^ 
2 pounds ; logwood, green copperas, and gum, 
of each 1 pound ; water, 6 gallons ; boil the 
whole of the ingredients in the water for Ik 
hours, andstrain5 gallons. Grood, butnot fine. 

2468. Common Black Ii^. Bruised 
galls, 1 pound ; logwood, 2 pounds ; common 
gum, f pound ; green copperas, i pound ; wa- 
ter, 5 gallons ; boil. Common, but fit for or- 
dinary purposes. 

2469. Exchequer Ink. Bruised galls, 
40 pounds; gum, 10 pounds; green sulphate 
of iron, 9 pounds ; soft water, 45 gallons ; 
macerate for 3 weeks, employing frequent agi- 
tation. This ink will endure for centuries. 

2470. Black Steel Pen Ink. A black 
ink, not corroding steel pens, and neutral, may 
be prepared by digesting in an open vessel, 42 
ounces coarsely-powdered nut-galls, 15 ounces 
gum Senegal, 18 ounces sulphate of iron (free 
from copper), 3 drachms aqua ammonia, 24 
ounces alcohol, and 18 quarts distilled or rain 
water. Continue the digestion until the fluid 
has assumed a deep black color. 

2471. Glycerine Ink. Take copperas, 
4 ounces ; nut-galls, 12 ounces ; logwood, 8 
ounces ; vinegar, 8 ounces ; gum-arabic, 1 
ounce ; glycerine, ^ ounce ; water, 48 ounces ; 
all the solid substances are to be pulverized 
and boiled for an hour together ; they are then 
set to cool, strained through a flannel bag^ 
and after that filtered through a folded filter. 
A drop of oil of cloves is added, the whole 
well shaken and filled into bottles. This ink 
will copy well. 

2472. Dr. Tire's Ink. For 12 gallons 
of ink take 12 pounds bruised galls, 5 pounds 
gum, 5 pounds green sulphate of iron, and 12 
gallons rain water. Boil the galls with 9 
gallons of the water for 3 hours, adding fresh 
water to supply that lost in vapor ; let the 
decoction settle, and draw off" the clear liquor. 
Add to it the gum previously dissolved in 1^ 
gallons of water ; dissolve the green vitriol 
separately inli gallons of water, and mix the 
whole. 

2473. Japan Ink. Aleppo gaUs, i 
pound ; logwood chips and copperas, each 4 
ounces ; gum-arabic, 3 ounces ; sugar, 1 
ounce ; blue vitriol (sulphate of copper), and 
sugar candy, each k ounce. Boil the galls and 
logwood in 6 quarts water till reduced one-half; 
strain ; add the other ingredients. Stk until 



INKS. 



dissolved. Clear and bottle. If it does not 
shine enough, add more gum ; also a few 
cloves, to prevent mould. 

2474. Ink Powder. For an ink pow- 
der take 1 pound nut-galls, 7 ounces copperas, 
and 7 ounces gum-arabic. Pulverize and mix. 
This amount of ink powder will make 1 gal- 
ion of good black ink. Two or three pow- 
dered cloves should be mixed with each pound 
of powder, to prevent moulding. 

2475. Permanence of Ink. The great 
difficulty with all iron inks is the precipitation 
which will take place, after a longer or shorter 
time, and which manufacturers have tried to 
obviate by substituting other materials. All 
inks, however, the basis of which is not tan- 
nate and gallate of iron, are not black imme- 
diately, and consequently not so agreeable to 
the eye when using them. The alizarine or 
rather indigo inks have a greenish, the chromi- 
um inks a reddish hue, and are not better 
adapted to withstand chemical agents than 
iron inks are. 

2476. To Keep Ink from Thickening. 
The only way to keep writing ink thin with 
which we are acquainted is to protect it from 
the atmosphere. The air not only evaporates 
it, but oxidizes it fvnd renders it thick. Those 
ink-stands which have a tapeiing funnel in the 
mouth will preserve the ink in its normal 
state much longer than the ordinary kind, be- 
cause less of the surface is exposed. 

2477. Writing Fluids. The very gen- 
eral use of steel pens has caused a correspond- 
ing demand for easy flowing inks, many of 
which have been of late years introduced un- 
der the title of ^^ writing fluids," or "steel 
pen ink." These are mostly prepared from 
galls in the preceding manner, but a less 
quantity of gum is employed. The blue 
writing fluids, which either maintain their 
color or turn black by exposure, are prepared 
from the ferrocyanide of potassium (prussiate 
of potassa), or from indigo. 

2478. Beautiful Blue Writing Fluid. 
Dissolve basic or soluble Prussian blue in 
pure water. This is the most permanent 
and beautiful ink known. It is not afl'ected 
by the addition of alcohol, but is immediately 
precipitated by saline matter. The precipi- 
tate, however, still possesses the property of 
dissolving in pure water. 

2479. To Test Prussian Blue. Pure 
Prussian blue feels light in the hand ; adheres 
to the tongue ; has a lively dark blue color, 
and gives a smooth deep trace. It should not 
effervesce with acids, as when adulterated 
with chalk; nor become pasty with boiling 
water, as when adulterated with starch. 
Prussian blue, rendered inferior in its color by 
an admixture of free oxide of iron, may be im- 
proved by digestion in dilute sulphuric or mu- 
riatic acid, washing and drying. Its relative 
richness in the real ferroprussiate of iron may 
be estimated by the quantity of potash or 
soda which a given quantity of it requires to 
destroy its blue color. 

2480. Blue Writing Fluid. Dissolve 
the soluble ferrocyanide of potassium and 
iron in pure water. Kesembles jSTo. 2478, but 
is precipitated from its solution by alcohol. 

2481. Stephens' Patent Blue Ink. 
Mr. Stej^liens' process. Take Prussian blue, 
(either of commeroe, or the pure chemical 



combination of sesquioxide of iron with ferro- 
cyanide of potassium), put it into any earthen 
vessel, and pour upon it as much strong 
hydrochloric, nitric, or sulphuric acid as will 
cover it (if sulphuric acid is used it must be 
diluted with an equal bulk of water) ; after 
standing 48 hours or more, add plenty of wa- 
ter, stirring it thoroughly, to remove the salts 
of iron; let it stand till all color has subsided, 
then draw off the clear liquid with a syphon ; 
add fresh water, and repeat the washing until 
ferrocyanide of potassium ceases to produce a 
blue precipitate, and the water drawn off 
ceases to redden blue litmus paper, then filter 
the product. This treatment extracts much 
of the iron from the Prussian blue, and takes 
away its liability to precipitate by long stand- 
ing. IsText add and carefully mix 1 part 
oxalic acid to every 6 parts of Prussian blue; 
then dilute, by degrees, with water sufficient 
to make the blue ink any desired tint. The 
influences of air and dampness have a ten- 
dency to destroy the color of manuscript 
written with black ink, while the same influ- 
ences tend to deepen and increase the color 
of the Prussian blue ink. This ink is only 
affected by continued exposure to light, which 
makes it fade in some degree; but it com- 
pletely recovers its original depth of color by 
being put in a dark place. 

2482. Mohr's Blue Writing Fluid. 
Triturate to a perfectly smooth paste, 6 parts 
pure Prussian blue, and 1 part oxalic acid, 
with a little water; then dilute with sufficient 
soft water to make it fluid. 

2483. Runge's Black Writing Fluid. 
This is a cheap and good ink, and resists ordi- 
nary destructive agents well. It is perfectly 
liquid, scarcely thickens by age, deposits no 
sediment, and does not corrode steel pens. 
Digest 4 pound logwood in flue chips for 12 
hours in 3 pints boiling water ; then simmer 
down gently to 1 quart, carefully avoiding 
dust, grease, and smoke. When cold, decant 
the decoction, and dissolve in it by agitation 
20 grains yellow chromate of potash ; it will 
then be fit for use. 

2484. Shellac Ink, or Coathupe's 
Writing Fluid. To 18 ounces water add 1 
ounce powdered borax and 2 ounces bruised 
shellac, and boil them in a covered vessel, 
stirring them occasionally till dissolved. Fil- 
ter, when cold, through coarse filtering paper; 
add 1 ounce mucilage ; boil for a few minutes, 
adding sufficient finely-powdered indigo and 
lampblack to color it. Leave the mixture 
for 2 or 3 hours for the coarser particles to 
subside ; pour it off from the dregs, and bottle 
it for use. 

2485. Arnold's Writing Fluid. Ar- 
nold's writing fluid is a mixture of sulphate 
of indigo and ordinary ink. It flows freely 
from the pen and at last becomes very black. 
On account of the large quantity of acid it 
contains, it is very destructive to steel pens, 
and for this evil we know of no cure. 

2486. Blue Fluid for Making Blue- 
Black Writing Ink. Prussian blue in fine 
powder, 1 ounce placed in a common phial, 
and concentrated hydrochloric acid, 2 ounces, 
poured over it. Effervescence ensues, and the 
mixture soon assumes the consistence of a 
thin paste. After 24 hours it may be diluted 
with 8 or 9 ounces of water, and preserved in 



INKS. 



233 



a glass bottle. The intensity of this color 
may be lessened by water. It forms an excel- 
lent blue writing fluid. 

2487. Fine Writing Fliiid. Dissolve 
ceruleo- sulphate of potassa or ammonia (sol- 
uble indigo) in hot water, and when cold 
decant the clear. It is an intense blue, and 
dries nearly black; is perfectly incorrosive, 
and very permanent and easy flowing. It 
may be thickened with gum water, or diluted 
with pure rain water, as required. 

2488. Reade's Patent Blue Writing 
Fluid. Prepare a solution of iodide of iron, 
from iodine, iron, and water ; add to the solu- 
tion half as much iodine as first used. Pour 
this solution into a semi- saturated solution 
of ferroprussiate of potash, containing nearly 
as much of the salt as the whole weight of 
iodine. Collect the precipitate, wash it, and 
finally dissolve it in water, to form the blue 
ink. The solution from which the precipitate 
is separated, evaporated to dryness, and the 
residue fused, re-dissolved, and crystallized, 
yields pure iodide of potassa. 

2489. IndeUble Writing Fluid. To 
gall ink, add a strong solution of Reade's 
Patent Writing blue in distilled water. This 
addition makes the ink which was previously 
proof against alkalies, equally proof against 
acids, and forms a writing fluid which cannot 
be erased from paper by any common method 
of fraudulent obliteration without the destruc- 
tion of the paper. This ink writes greenish 
blue, but afterwards turns intensely black. 

2490. Precautions in Making Wri- 
ting Fluids. All the preceding receipts for 
writing fluids, under proper management, 
produce excellent products. Care must be 
taken in all cases that the ingredients he pure, 
and unless this precaution is attended to, suc- 
cess is doubtful. Either of the preceding blue 
fluids may be used as indelible ink to mark 
linen, and will be found very pennanent, pro- 
vided the part be first moistened with alum 
water and dried. 

2491. Gold Ink. Gold ink is prepared 
in the following way : Genuine gold leaf is 
rubbed with honey on a plate of agate or 
ground glass by means of a flat pestle, until 
the whole presents a uniform mass, in which 
no distinct particles of gold can be recognized. 
{See No. 2517.) This mass is carefully re- 
moved into a vessel with water, which will 
dissolve the honey, and leave the gold in an 
extremely disintegrated state behind. The 
water has, according to the size of the vessel, 
to be removed twice or three times, when all 
the saccharine matter will have been washed 
away. The remaining gold is then mixed 
with a sufficient quantity of a solution of gum- 
arabic, shaken well, and is ready for use. 
{See No. 2518.) The writing is to be rubbed, 
after drying, with a flat piece of ivory, when 
it will present the lustre of pure gold. 

249.3. Silver Ink. Silver ink is prepar- 
ed in the same way, from silver leaf, as the 
gold in last receipt. 

2493. Gold Labels on Glass Bottles. 
The finely divided gold, prepared as in No. 
2491, is distributed in a solution of gum damar 
in naphtha, and the writing is to be done with 
this fluid l3y means of a brush. If the solu- 
tion should become too thick in course of time, 
a little naphtha is added and well shaken, 



when the gold paint will be ready for usa 
again. The gum damar in drying will cover 
the written lines with a kind of varnish that 
will protect the gold from the action of acids 
or alkalies. 

2494. Purple Ink, or King of Purples. 
Infuse 12 pounds campeachy logwood in 12 
gallons water; provide a funnel at the bot- 
tom of which a sponge has been placed ; pour 
the infusion through a strainer made of coarse 
flannel into the funnel, and thence on to 1 
pound hydrate or acetate of copper (verdigris) ; 
then add immediately 14 pounds alum; and 
for each 17 gallons of the liquid, add 4 pounds 
gum-arabic or Senegal ; let these remain 3 or 
4 days and a beautiful pui-ple will be produced. 

2495. Green Ink. Boil 2 parts acetate 
of copper and 1 part bitartrate of potassa in 8 
parts water, until the solution is reduced to 
half the bulk ; filter through a cloth, and, 
when cool, bottle. 

2496. Green Ink. Dissolve 180 grains 
bichromate of potassa in 1 fluid ounce of wa- 
ter ; add, while warm, | ounce spirit of wine ; 
then decompose the mixture with concentra- 
ted sulphuric acid, until it assumes a brown 
color ; evaporate this liquor until its quantity 
is reduced to one-half; dilute it with 2 ounces 
distilled water ; filter it, add 5 ounce alcohol, 
followed by a few drops strong sulphuric acid ; 
it is now allowed to rest, and after a time it 
assumes a beautiful green color. After the 
addition of a small quantity of gum-arabic, it 
is ready for use. 

2497. Violet, Magenta, and Solferino 
Ink. Inks of these, and such other bright 
aniline colors may be made as follows : Mix 

1 drachm of the proper aniline color with I4 
ounces alcohol {see No. 2578) in a glass or en- 
ameled iron vessel ; let it stand for 3 hours. 
Then add 13 ounces distilled water, and subject 
the whole to a gentle heat until the alcohol has 
evaporated, that is, until no odor of alcohol 
is perceptible; then add 4 drachms gum-arabic 
dissolved in 3 ounces water. Mix and strain. 
As the aniline colors of commerce vary a 
great deal in quality, the amount of dilution 
must vary with the sample used, and the 
shade determined by trial. 

2498. Heusler's Red Ink. Take 2 
ounces best Brazil wood, i ounce pulverized 
alum, \ ounce crystals of l)itartrate of potassa, 
and 16 ounces distilled water ; boil down to 
one half, and strain. Then dissolve in it 2 
ounce gum-arabic, and add 1-^ drachms coch- 
ineal dissolved in I2 ounces alcohol of spe- 
cific gravitv .839. 

2499. Brilliant Red Ink. Brazil wood, 

2 ounces; muriate of tin, 2 drachm; gum- 
arabic, 1 drachm ; boil down in 32 ounces wa- 
ter to one half, and strain. 

2500. Good Red Ink. Ground Brazil 
wood, 8 ounces ; vinegar, 10 pints ; macerate 
for 4 or 5 days ; boil in a tinned-copper vessel 
to one half, then add roche alum, 8 ounces; 
and gum, 3 ounces ; dissolve. 

2501. Buchner's Carmine Ink. Pure 
carmine, 12 grains ; water of ammonia, 3 
ounces ; dissolve, then add powdered gum, 18 
grains ; 5 drachm of powdered drop lake may 
be substituted for the caraiine where expense 
is an object. This makes a superb carmine ink. 

2502. Fine Red Ink. Cochineal, in 
powder, 1 ounce; hot water, ^ pint; digest, 



234= 



IXKS. 



nnd when quite cold, add spirit of hartshorn, 
k pint ; or liquor of ammonia, 1 ounce ; dilute 
with 3 or 4 ounces of water ; macerate for a 
few days longer, then decant the clear. The 
color of this is very fine. 

2503. Redwood's Red Ink. Guaran- 
eine and liquor of ammonia, of each 1 ounce: 
distilled water (cold), 1 pint; tritm-ate to- 
gether in a mortar, filter, and dissolve in the 
solution gum-arahic k ounce. (Cooley.) 

2504. To Restore "Writing Effaced 
with Chlorine. Expose it to the vapor of 
sulphuret of ammonia, or dip it into a solution 
of the sulphuret. Or: Ferrocyanide of po- 
tassa, 5 parts ; water, 85 parts. Dissolve, and 
immerse the paper in the fluid, then slightly 
acidulate the solution with sulphuric or hydro- 
chloric acid. The method found to answer 
best has been to spread the ferrocyanide thin 
with a feather or a bit of stick cut to a blunt 
point. Though the fen'ocyanide should occa- 
sion no sensible change of color, yet the mo- 
ment the acid comes upon it, every trace of a 
letter turns at once to a fine blue, which soon 
acquires its full intensity, and is beyond com- 
parison stronger than the color of the original 
trace. If, then, the corner of a bit of blotting 
paper be carefully and dexterously apphed 
near the letters, so as to imbibe the superflu- 
ous liquor, the staining of the parchment may 
be in a great measure avoided ; for it is this 
superfluous liquor which, absorbing part of 
the coloring matters from the letters, becomes 
a dye to whatever it touches. Care must be 
taken not to bring the blotting-paper in con- 
tact with the letters, because the coloring 
matter is soft whilst wet, and may easily be 
rubbed ofi". The acid chiefly employed is the 
mm'iatic; but both the sulphuric and nitric 
succeed very well. They should be so far 
diluted as not to be Kable to corrode the 
parchment, after which the degree of strength 
does not seem to be a matter of much nicety. 

2505. To make New Writing Look 
Old. Take 1 drachm saflron, and infuse it 
into i pint ink, and warm it over a gentle fire, 
and it will cause whatever is written with it 
to turn yellow, and appear as if of many 
years' standing. 

2506. To Write on Greasy Paper or 
Parchment. Put to a bullock's gall 1 hand- 
ful of salt, and ^ pint vinegar, stu- it tmtil it is 
mixed well ; when the paper or parchment is 
greasy, put 1 drop of the gall into the ink, 
and the difficulty will be instantlv obviated. 

2507. To Remove Ink Blotches from 
Writing. When ink blotches have been 
formed over writing which it is desired to 
decipher, we are advised to brush oif the 
spot carefully with a weak solution of oxalic 
acid by means of a camel's-hair pencil. In 
this way layer after layer of the superincum- 
bent ink will be removed, and finally the 
writing itself will, in most cases, come to 
view. This is especially possible where some 
considerable interval has elapsed between the 
two applications of ink. As soon as the let- 
ters are visible the brushing should be con- 
tinued for a time with clean water, so as to 
arrest the tendency of the acid solution to 
make a further change in the ink. 

2508. Redwood's Indelible Marking 
Ink. Dissolve 1 ounce nitrate of silver and 
li ounces crystallized carbonate of soda in 



separate portions of distilled water, and mix 
the solutions ; coUect the resulting precipitate 
on a filter, wash it thoroughly with distilled 
water, and introduce it, while still moist, into 
a Wedgwood- ware mortar; add 8 scruples 
tartaric acid, and triturate the whole until ef- 
fervescence has ceased; next add sufficient 
arnmonia to dissolve the tartrate of silver; 
mix in 4 fluid drachms archil, 4 drachms 
white sugar, and 12 drachms finely-powdered 
gum-arabic; then add sufficient distilled water 
to make 6 ounces of the mixture. This ink 
fulfills aU the conditions that a marking ink 
should possess : It flows freely from the pen 
without running or blotting ; it does not re- 
quire a veiy strong or long continued heat to 
develop it; when developed it is perfectly 
black ; and it does not injure the textm-e of the 
finest fabric. 

2509. Indelible Ink. The Hnen is first 
moistened with a fiuid consisting of a mix- 
ture of 2 parts carbonate of soda in crystals, 
2 parts gum-arabic, 8 parts water, and then 
dried. When quite dry, it is rubbed with a 
glass or smooth pebble to render it as smooth 
as possible, so that it may be easier to write 
upon. The composition of the ink itself is as 
foUows : If parts nitrate of silver, 16 parts 
distilled water, 2 parts gum-arabic, and i part 
sap green. The nitrate of silver is first dis- 
solved in the distilled water, and the gum-ara- 
bic and sap green are subsquently added. It 
is necessary to write with a quiU pen, all me- 
tallic pens except gold ones decomposing the 
ink. It is a good plan to trace the letters on 
the linen with a pencil before writing them. 
This and the four following receipts are by 
Dr. Eeiman, who says that they have all been 
thoroughly well tried, and found efi"ectual. 

2510. Fine Marking Ink. Marking 
hnen is most conveniently effected by using 
a small stiff brush and a small copper plate 
with perforations con-esponding to the letters 
required. This stencil plate is laid upon the 
linen, and the ink is rubbed into the cut-out 
spaces with the brush. The following ink is 
of service for marking linen with a stencil 
plate : 2 parts nitrate of silver, 4 parts dis- 
tilled water, 2k parts gum-arabic, 3 parts 
carbonate of soda crystals, 5 parts liquid am- 
monia. The best way to prepare the ink is to 
first dissolve the nitrate of silver in the liquid 
ammonia, and the gum-arabic and soda in the 
distilled water. The two solutions are then 
mixed together and slightly warmed, when 
the whole mixture becomes brown. A few 
drops of a solution of magenta makes the ink 
somewhat more distinct. "WTien this method 
is used, the hnen requires no previous pre- 
paration. 

2511. Aniline Marking Ink. Dissolve 
8^^ grains bichloride of copper in 30 grains 
distilled water, then add 10 grains common 
salt, and 9^ grains liquid ammonia. A solu- 
tion of 30 grains hydrochlorate of aniline in 
20 grains distilled water is then added to 20 
grains of a solution of gum-arabic (contain- 
ing 2 parts water, 1 part gum-arabic), and 
lastly 10 grains of glycerine. 4 parts of the 
aniline solution thus prepared are mixed with 
1 part of the copper solution. The liquid 
which results has a green appearance, and 
may be at once employed for marking linen, 
since it invariably becomes black after a few 



IXKS. 



235 



days. A steel pen may be employed as well 
as a quill. If it is desirable not to wait so 
long for the appearance of the black color, a 
hot iron may be passed over the writins; when 
the ink is dry, or the linen may be held over 
the flame of a spirit lamp, or over a hot plate, 
or hot water, when the black tint will readil}" 
appear. It is a good plan to put the linen, 
when marked, into a tepid solution of soap, 
which has the effect of bringing out a fine 
bluish tint. The ink must be so limpid that 
it is able to permeate the tissue of the linen, 
so that the marks appear on both sides. It is 
advisable to mix the solutions together, only 
when the ink has to be used. It is perfectly 
indelible, and so easy to write with that the 
finest devices may be drawn with it. This 
ink has the advantage of being cheaper than 
the ink prepared from nitrate of silver. It 
has also another advantage over the latter 
salt, viz. : that it is chemically indelible. 

2512. Purple Marking Ink. A purple 
marking ink can be prepared by mixing 1 part 
bichloride of platinum with 16 parts distilled 
water. The place where the letters have to be 
written must be moistened with a solution of 
3 parts carbonate of soda, 3 parts gum-arabic, 
and 12 parts water. The spot is then dried 
and made smooth. After the letters have 
been written with the platinum ink and be- 
come dry, the linen is moistened with a solu- 
tion of 1 part chloride of tin in 4 parts distilled 
water, when an intense and beautiful purple- 
red color makes its appearance. 

2513. Cheap Brown Marking Ink. 
A very cheap brown marking ink may be pre- 
pared from 4 parts acetate of manganese dis- 
solved in 12 parts water. The place on the 
linen where the marks have to be made must 
be previously moistened with the following 
solution : 1 part yellow prussiate of potash, 
h part gum-arabic, 3 parts water. The linen, 
having been saturated with the above solution, 
is dried, and afterwards marked with the 
manganese solution. On the letters becoming 
dry, the following solution is spread over the 
spot with a brush : 4 parts carbonate of pot- 
ash, 10 parts water. The letters then become 
brown, and their color cannot be removed by 
alkalies, nor by acids, with the exception of 
dilute hydrochloric acid. 

2514. Carbon Ink. Genuine Indian ink 
rubbed down with good black ink until it will 
flow easily from a pen. This ink resists chlor- 
ine, and oxalic acid. 

2515. Indian or Chinese Ink. The 
pure article can only be obtained from China. 
A good imitation may be made with ivory 
black, ground to an impalpable powder, made 
into a paste with weak gum-arabic water, 
perfumed with a few drops of essence of musk 
and half as much essence of ambergris, and 
then formed into cakes. (See Xo. 2716.) 

2516. Perpetual Ink for Tombstones, 
&c. Equal parts of Trinidad asphaltum and 
oil of turpentine. Use in a melted state to 
fill in the letters and devices on tombstones, &e. 
Without actual violence it will last as long as 
the stone. 

2517. To Pulverize Gfold and Silver 
Leaf. This is effected by grindiug upon a 
porphyry slab, with a muller, gold or silver 
leaves with white honey, until they are re- 
duced to the finest possible state of division. 



' Then wash the honey thoroughly from the 
powdered metal and mix with gum water. 

' (See also Xo. 25.) 

I 2518. Liquid Gold, for Vellum, &c. 
Take gold leaf and grind it with gum water; 

! then add a small quantity of bichloride of 
mercury, and bottle for use. 

2519. Liquid Silver, for VeUum, &c. 
Take silver leaf and grind it with gum-water 
or glaire of e^g. 

2520. Copying" Ink. The virtue of 
copying ink consists in its non-drying pro- 
perty. This property may be given to any 
ordinary ink by the addition of sugar. Lately, 
however, glycerine has been substituted for 
sugar, and is decidedly to be preferred. A 
good copying ink may be made from common 
violet writing ink, by the addition of abuui. i 
part glycerine to 100 parts of the ink. The ad- 
dition of too large a proportion of glycenne is 
apt to impair the requisite drying qualities of 
the ink ; and too little will fail to make the ink 
susceptible of a perfect copy. (See Xo 2471.) 

2521. Ink for Marking Packages. 
Take lampblack and mix thoroughly with suf- 
ficient turpentine to make it thin enough to 
flow from the brush. Powdered ultramarine, 
instead of lampblack, makes a fine blue mark- 
ing mixture for the same purpose. 

2522. Ink for Marking Packages. 
An excellent and very cheap ink is made by 
mixing J- ounce bichromate of potassa and 4 
ounces extract of logwood in a stone jar or 
demijohn, with 2 gallons of hot water. Shake 
well and let it stand for about 2 weeks, 
shaking occasionally. 

2523. Permanent Ink for Writing 
in Relief on Zinc. Bichloride of platinum, 
dry, 1 part ; gum-arabic, 1 part ; distilled wa- 
ter, 10 parts. The letters traced upon zinc 
with this solution turn black immediately. 
The black characters resist the action of weak 
acids, of rain, or of the elements in general, 
and the liquid is thus adapted for marking 
signs, labels, or tags which are liable to ex- 
posure. To bring out the letters in relief, 
immerse the zinc tag in a weak acid for a few 
moments. The writing is not attacked while 
the metal is dissolved awav. 

2524. Ink for Zinc Labels. Take 1 
drachm of verdigris, 1 drachm sal ammoniac 
powder, and i drachm lampblack, and mix 
them with 10 drachms water ; and this will 
form an indelible ink for writius: on zinc. 

2525. To Write on Silver with a 
Black that will Never Go Off. Take 
burnt lead and pulverize it. Incoi-porate it 
next with sulphur and vinegar, to the consist- 
ency of a paint, and write with it on any 
silver plate. Let it dry, then present it to 
the fire so as to heat the work a little, and it 
is completed. 

2526. Indestructible Inks. Employed 
for writing the labels on bottles containing 
strong acids and alkaline solutions. They are 
capable of resisting the action of iodine, 
chlorine, alkaline lyes and acids, as well as 
operations of dyeing and bleaching, besides 
being an excellent and cheap material for 
marking linen, as nothing will remove them 
without destroying the fabric. 

2527. Hausmann's Indestructible 
Ink. Mix 1 part genuine Trinidad asphaltum 
with 4 parts oil of turpentirfe ; color with a 



236 



INKS. 



sufficifjncy of plumbago, for blacky or vermilion 
for red ink. 

2528. Close's Indestructible Ink. 

Mix 25 grains powdered cobalt and 200 grains 
oil of lavender by a gentle beat ; color witb 3 
grains lampblack and 1 gram indigo, botb in 
fine powder. If a red color is required, omit 
tbe lampblack and indigo and add sufficient 
vermilion to make tbe mixture a good color. 

2529. Indestructible "Writing Ink. 
Shellac, 4 parts ; borax, 2 parts ; soft water, 
36 parts ; boil in a close vessel tiU dissolved ; 
tben filter, and take of gum-arabic, 2 parts ; 
soft water, 4 parts. Dissolve, and mix tbe 
two solutions together, and boil for 5 minutes 
as before, occasionally stirring to promote 
their union ; when cold, add a sufficient quan- 
tity of finely powdered indigo and lampblack 
to color ; lastly, let it stand for 2 or 3 hours, 
until the coarser powder has subsided, and 
bottle for use. Use this fluid with a clean 
pen, and keep it in glass or earthen inkstands, 
as many substances wiU decompose it while 
in the liquid state. When dry it will resist 
the action of water, oil, tm-pentine, alcohol, 
diluted sulphmic acid, diluted hydrochloric 
acid, oxalic acid, chlorine, and the caustic 
alkalies and alkaline earths. 

2530. Simple Carbon Ink. Dissolve 
30 grains of sugar in 30 grains of water, to 
which add a few drops of concentrated sul- 
phuric acid. Upon heating this mixture the 
sugar becomes carbonized by the acid, and 
when applied to the paper it leaves a coating 
of carbon which cannot be washed off". This 
stain is rendered more perfect by the decom- 
posing action of the ink itself upon the paper, 
and thus resists the action of chemical agents. 

2531. Drawing Ink. A very black 
and indelible drawing ink may be made by 
dissolving shellac in a hot water solution of 
borax, and rubbing up in this solution a fine 
quality of Indian ink. After using, dip the 
drawing pen in alcohol, and wipe dry to keep 
it clean and bright. (See JVb. 2514.) 

2532. Permanent Ink for Use with 
Stamps or Type. Mix equal parts black 
oxide of manganese and hydrate of potash, 
heat to redness, and rub with an equal quan- 
tity of smooth white clay into a paste, water 
being added for the purpose. Or : Sulphate 
of manganese, 2 drachms; lampblack, 1 
drachm ; powdered loaf sugar, 4 drachms ; 
rubbed into paste with water. After stamp- 
ing, dry the linen and wash well in water. 

2533. Sympathetic, or Invisible Inks, 
for Secret Writing. These are colorless 
inks which require the aid of heat or some 
other agency to develop the characters written 
with them. Their use has been rendered 
specially practical since the recent introduc- 
tion of the postal correspondence cards in 
England and elsewhere. By previous ar- 
rangement between correspondents, the re- 
ceiver of a card only needs some visible sign 
on the card to identify the writer or sender ; 
this will at once suggest tbe means to be em- 
ployed to develop the particular ink the re- 
eeiver's correspondent has agreed to use. 

2534. Black Sympathetic Inks. 
■Writing with a solution of sugar of lead will 
be turned black by moistening the paper with 
Bulphide of potassium. 

If nitrate of silver be used, the writing will 



become black by dipping the paper in a solu- 
tion of ammonia. 

Chloride of mercury will turn black when 
wetted with chloride of tin. 

A weak infusion of galls is turned black by 
sulphate of iron (copperas). 

Eeversing the above, wriMng with copperas 
turns black by moistening with infusion of 
galls. 

2535. Blue Sympathetic Inks. 
Writing with copperas turns blue if wetted 
with a solution of prussiate of potassa. 

Mtrate of cobalt turns blue on being wetted 
with a weak solution of oxalic acid. 

Eice water or a solution of boiled starch 
turns blue in a solution of iodine in weak 
spirit. 

2536. Brown Sympathetic Ink. A 
diluted solution of nitrate of silver turns 
brown by exposure to the sunlight. 

2537. Yellow Sympathetic Ink. 
Chloride of antimony, used as the ink, will be- 
come yellow by moistening with a decoction 
of galls. 

2538. Green Sympathetic Ink. Ar- 
seniate of copper, washed over with nitrate 
of copper, turns a beautiful green. 

2539. Purple Sympathetic Ink. 
Purple is produced by using chloride of gold, 
and soaking in chloride of tin. 

2540. Sympathetic Inks Developed 
by Heat. There are a number of colorless 
substances that may be used as inks, which 
are developed by the application of heat only. 

Sulphate of copper and sal ammoniac, mixed 
in equal parts, will become yellow if exposed 
to the fire. 

Onion juice has the same property as the 
above mixture. 

Lemon juice, a very weak solution of either 
aquafortis, oil of vitriol, common salt, or salt- 
petre, will turn yellow or brown on exposure 
to the fire. 

A weak solution of chloride of cobalt and 
chloride of nickel is turned a beautiful green 
by heat. 

A solution of chloride or nitro-muriate of 
cobalt, turns green when heated, and disap- 
pears again on cooling. 

A dilute solution of chloride of copper be- 
comes a fine yellow at a moderate heat, and 
disappears on cooling. 

A solution of acetate of cobalt, with a little 
nitrate added to it, turns rose-colored by heat, 
and disappears again when cold. 

These last, which disappear again on cool- 
ing, are the best sympathetic inks for pur- 
poses of correspondence, as the others are 
more or less indelible when once developed. 

2541 . Hoe's Composition for Printing 
Ink Rollers. This consists of glue and mo- 
lasses, the proportions varying from 8 pounds 
of glue in summer to 4 pounds in winter, for 
each gallon of molasses. The glue should 
be placed for -J an hour in a bucket, covered 
with water, then pour the water ofi' and allow 
the glue to soften. Put it into a kettle and 
heat it until thoroughly melted ; if too thick, 
a little water may be added. Lastly, the mo- 
lasses is stirred in and well mixed with the 
glue. When properly prepared, an hour's 
boiling will be sufficient, as too much boiling 
is apt to candy the molasses. Pour into a 
clean mould well oiled with a swab. 



ANILINE COLORS. 



237 



2542. To Clean Ink Rollers. Rollers 
should not be washed immediately after use, 
as they ^sr\\\ become dry and skinny, but 
they may be washed 5 hour before using agaru. 
In cleaning a new roller, a little oil rubbed 
over it will loosen the ink, and it should be 
scraped clean with the back of a knife ; it 
should be cleaned this way for about a week, 
when lye may be used. Jfew rollers are 
often spoiled by washing too soon with lye. 

2543. Black Printing Ink. Boil Ik 
gallons old clear linseed oil to the consistence 
of a thick varnish ; whilst hot, add to it, dur- 
ing constant stirring, first 6 pounds powdered 
resLQ, and next If pounds dry brown soap 
shavings ; then mix in it 2^ ounces indigo 
blue, 2^ ounces Paris blue, and 5 pounds best 
lampblack. After standing for a week it 
should be ground. 

2544. Black or Colored Printing Ink. 
Balsam copaiba, 9 ounces ; lampblack, 3 oun- 
ces; Paris blue, 1^ ounces; Indian red, | 
ounoo ; dry resin soap, 3 ounces. These will 
produce a superior black ink. By employing 
white soap instead of yellow, and a sufficiency 
of some coloring pigment instead of the black, 
blue, and red mixture, a good colored ink will 
be obtained. 

2545. New Ink for Printers. A new 
ink for printers has been invented by Professor 
Artus, and Mr. Fleckstein, a master-printer 
at Lichtenhain, which ink is said to be a com- 
plete success. The composition of it is as 
follows: Yenetian turpentine, 4 5 ounces; 
fluid soap, 5 ounces ; rectified oleine, 2 ounces; 
burnt soot, 3 ounces ; Paris blue (ferrocyanic 
acid), i ounce; oxalic acid, ^ ounce; distilled 
water, 5 ounce. The mixing process of this 
new, beautiful, and cheap ink is described as 
follows: Grradually warm the turpentine and 
the oleine together ; put the soap on a marble 
plate, and gradually add, continually rubbing, 
the mixture of turpentine and oleine ; when 
well mixed, add the burnt soot, which must 
first be well powdered and sifted; then add the 
Paris blue, dissolved in the oxalic acid, con- 
tinually rubbing the composition on the stone, 
the Paris blue and the oxalic acid having 
been mixed before with water ta the above 
given proportions. A solution of soda in 
water is sufficient to thoroughly cleanse the 
type. 

2546. Indelible Printing Ink. Mix 1 
pound varnish (such as is used for ordinary 
printing ink), 1 pound black sulphuret of 
mercury, 1 ounce nitrate of silver, 1 ounce 
sulphate of iron, 2 table-spoonfuls lampblack. 
Thoroughly grind together, adding enough 
turpentine to reduce to the requisite consist- 
ency. 

2547. Lithographic Ink, Grind to- 
gether 8 parts mastich, in tears, and 12 parts 
shellac; dissolve carefully by heat in 1 part 
Yenice turpentine ; after the mixture is taken 
from the fire, mix in 16 parts wax and 6 parts 
tallow; then add, by stirring, 6 parts hard tal- 
low soap in shavings, and finally incorporate 
in the mass 4 parts lampblack. ' Heat and stir 
until thoroughly mixed; let it cool a little, and 
pour it out on tables, and when cold, cut into 
square rods. 

2548. Lithographic Transfer Ink. 
Melt together 8 parts white wax and 2 parts j 
white soap ; and, before they become hot i 



enough to take fire, stir in by degrees suffi- 
cient lampblack to make the mixture black ; 
then allow the whole to burn for 30 seconds ; 
when the flame is extinguished, add, a little 
at a time, 2 parts shellac, stirring it in con- 
stantly ; put the vessel on the fire again until 
the mass is kindled, or nearly so. Put out the 
flame and allow it to cool a little, and then run 
it into the moulds. Ink thus made will make 
as fine or coarse lines as are desired, and its 
traces will remain unchanged for years before 
being transferred. "When suet enters into the 
composition of lithographic crayons, it does 
not keep long, and requires immediate trans- 
ferring to the stone. 

2549. Lithographic Ink. M. Lasteyrie 
states that, after having tried a great many 
combinations, he gives the preference to the 
following: — Dry tallow soap, mastich in tears, 
and common soda in fine powder, of each 30 
parts; shellac, 150 parts; lampblack, 12 parts; 
mix as last. Used for writing on lithographic 
stones. 

2550. To Test the Q,uaHty of Litho- 
graphic Ink. Lithographic ink of good 
quality ought to be susceptible of forming an 
emulsion so attenuated that it may appear to 
be dissolved when rubbed upon a hard body 
in distilled or river water. It should be flow- 
ing in the pen, not spreading on the stone ; 
capable of forming delicate traces, and very 
black, to show its delineations. The most es- 
sential quality of the ink is to sink well into 
the stone, so as to reproduce the most delicate 
outlines of the drawing, and to afi'ord a great 
many impressions. It must, therefore, be 
able to resist the acid with which the stone is 
moistened in the preparation, without letting 
any of its greasy matter escape. 

2551. Durable Autographic Ink. 
White wax, 8 ounces ; and white soap, 2 to 3 
ounces; melt; when well combined add lamp- 
black, 1 ounce; mix well, and heat it strongly; 
then add shellac, 2 ounces ; again heat it 
strongly ; stir well together, cool a little, and 
pour it out. With this ink lines may be 
drawn of the finest to the fullest class with- 
out danger of its spreading, and the copy may 
be kept for years before bein^ transferred. 
This ink is employed for writing on litho- 
graphic paper, and is prepared for use by rub- 
bing down with a little water in a saucer, in 
the same way as common water-color cakes 
or Indian ink. In winter this should be done 
near a fire, or the saucer should be placed over 
a basin containing a little warm water. It 
may then be used with either a steel pen or a 
camel's-hair pencil. 



Allili^© Colors. Aniline is a 
r^ liquid of a color varying from yeUow to 
dark brown. The commercial article is never 
chemically pure, being a mixture of pure ani- 
line, toluidine, and odorine. Its boiling point 
ranges from 356^^ to 482° Fahr. If aniline boils 
at a lower temperature than 356'^, it contains 
too much odorine, aud is, therefore, of poor 
quality. It is obtained by conversion from 
nitro-benzole, a preparation of the benzole ob- 
tained from coal tar (not from petroleum). In 
preparing nitro-benzole on a large scale, 12 



ANILINE COLORS. 



parts benzole are mixed with 13 parts fuming 
nitric acid, and 8 parts oil of vitriol, in a cast 
iron apparatus. The character of the product 
depends greatly on the purity of the benzole, 
and also on the management of the reaction. 
The conversion of nitro-benzole into aniline is, 
by Bechamps' process, performed in iron tanks, 
heated by steam, and provided with stirrers, 
and a still-head to collect the distillates. The 
tank or still is charged with 100 parts nitro- 
benzole, 150 clean wrought iron filings, 100 
water, and 150 acetic acid; when these are 
mixed spontaneous heat is evolved, which 
causes some of the liquid to pass into the con- 
densers, whence it is returned to the tank. 
As the heat is not sufficient for the complete 
conversion of the nitro-benzole, steam is intro- 
duced after a time, and the stirring and steam- 
ing is continued until no more nitro-benzole 
appears in the distilled vapor. At this point 
the temperature is increased, and, if necessary, 
aided by direct fire, to cause complete distilla- 
tion of the aniline which has formed, and which 
passes off with water, and separates from it on 
standing, as the heavier stratum. The aniline 
used for the various colors is taken of different 
composition and boiling-point. A. W. Hof- 
mann has shown that a mixture of an equiva- 
lent of aniline and two of toluidine produces 
the largest yield of rosaniline (fuchsine). The 
substance used for this manufacture begins to 
boil at about 347°, and as the heat increases to 
390^ 80 per cent, will have distilled over. 
Aniline blue and purple require an oil which 
begins to boil at 374°, and at 392° has lost only 
60 per cent. Evidently with these properties 
it contains less aniline than the preceding one. 
The changes which these bases undergo when 
converted into dyes or compounds of rosani- 
line, are brought about by the partial destruc- 
tion of a portion of them. 

2553. Rosaniliiie, or Fuchsine. The 
principal methods for the manufacture of fuch- 
sine employ arsenic acid, the reaction being 
brought about in a cast iron still with mova- 
ble head, connected with a condenser, and 
provided with a manhole, and also a place for 
a thermometer. This still sits in a jacket con- 
taining a hot bath of palm-oil, which keeps it 
at a temperature of from 320° to 356° Fahr. A 
charge consists of 100 parts aniline and 200 
parts arsenic acid, and the reaction is ordina- 
rily completed in about 6 hours, sometimes in 
5, but at others only in 12 hours, during which 
time the temperature is carefully regulated. 
Assays are taken from time to time, and the 
completion of the process is known by the 
pure bronze color of the sample. The fused 
mass is transferred to a tank, in which, after 
cooling, it is broken up, and at once treated 
with water and steam. The base fuchsine 
(rosaniline) dissolves, leaving behind the resin- 
ous products of the reaction ; the arsenic acid 
is separated by the addition of milk of lime. 
The filtered solution, afterproper concentration, 
deposits, on cooling, fine crystals of fuchsine, 
as do also the first mother liquors. An infe- 
rior quality of fuchsine is obtained by adding a 
portion of salt, varying in quantity. 

2554. Aniline Blue. Aniline blue re- 
sults from various processes. The one most 
commonly used at present is that of Girard and 
De Laire, made by heating fuchsine with fluid 
anihne. The original process produced a blue 



with a reddish tinge ; but by the addition of 
some organic substances, acetic acid, andme- 
thylic alcohol, pure blue is obtained. It is dis- 
tinguished from all other blues by not appear- 
ing green in candle light. The various 
shades of purple to blue and violet a^e made 
from fuchsine by Hofmann's method {see No. 
2608), heating 1 part fuchsine and 2 iodide of 
ethyl with 2 parts alcohol in a closed vessel at 
212° for variable lengths of time ; the blue re- 
sulting from longest exposure. 

2555. Aniline Green. Aniline green is 
produced from a solution of sulphate of rosani- 
line in dilute sulphuric acid and some alde- 
hyde, which is heated till its color has changed 
to dark green. Addition of a solution of hy- 
posulphite of soda separates the color. 

2556. Aniline Green. Several of the 
aniline greens occurring in the market are apt 
to undergo spontaneous destruction, some- 
times in less than a day. The following is a 
formula which any one may make : 4 parts of 
pure fuchsine or rosaniline are dissolved in 6 
parts water and 16 parts aldehyde {see next 
receipt), and are heated at 212° Fahr., until a 
drop of the mixture imparts to water acidula- 
ted slightly with sulphuric acid a clear blue 
color, when it is ready to be poured into a boil- 
ing solution of hyposulphite of soda, which is 
being stirred. A fine green precipitate forms, 
and a grayish one, which latter must be kept 
separate. The green is mordanted principally 
with acetate of alumina. 

2557. To Prepare Aldehyde. Alde- 
hyde is made by filling a tubulated glass re- 
tort, altogether to one-third full, with 32 parts 
absolute alcohol, 30 parts bichromate of po- 
tassa, and, without previous cooling, a mixture 
of 35 parts oil of vitriol, and 30 of water, in small 
portions, through a safety-tube in the tubus. 
After one-half of the latter has been intro- 
duced, the mixture commences to boil and al- 
dehyde begins to distill over, the remainder of 
the said mixture being added through the 
tubulus as required. ISo further purification 
is needed. 

2558. To Make Aniline Colors Solu- 
ble in Water. The aniline colors insoluble 
in water may, according to Dr. Zinsman, be 
rendered soluble in the following way: — ^A 
solution of gelatine in acetic acid of about the 
consistence of syrup is first made, and the 
aniline color in fine powder is gradually added, 
stirring all the time so as to obtain a homo- 
geneous paste. The mixture is then to be heat- 
ed over a water-bath to the temperature of 
boiling water, and kept at that heat for some 
time. Colors in this state, if a very clear gel- 
atine is employed, will be applicable to many 
decorative purposes. Bookbinders, paper- 
stainers, and printers will find them useful. 
They may also, it is said, be used to color con- 
fectionery and soaps. Before they are used 
for confectionery, however, it wiU be well to 
make sure that no arsenic is present. 

2559. Injurious Effects of Impure 
Alcohol upon Aniline Colors. Dr. Till- 
manns has examined several varieties of al- 
cohol, and tested the effects upon aniline 
colors. The most sensitive among these, for 
impure alcohol, is aniline purple (phenyl- 
rosaniline). It appears that empyreumatic 
substances, aldehyde, the peculiar fusel oils due 
to the substances used in the manufacture of 



ANILINE COLOBS. 



239 



the alcohol, affect the aniline colors when dis- 
solved in snch alcohols and boiled therewith. 
The best test for the purity of an alcohol is to 
dissolve in it 1 per cent, of perfectly pure 
caustic potassa, and to heat the solution; it 
should only acquire a bright yellow color. 
Another test is to dissolve Ipart of the aniline 
purple alluded to in 50 parts of the alcohol to 
be tested, and to heat the fluid for some time. 
If, after half an hom-'s heating, no change is 
observed, the quality of the alcohol is good ; 
but if the latter is not pure enough, the mix- 
ture soon becomes turbid, and assumes a red 
color. Another test is to make two solutions 
of the color of the same strength (1 in 50), one 
with alcohol of known purity, and the other 
with the suspected alcohol, and then compare 
the intensity and shade of the solutions. Al- 
dehyde is often present in alcohol, especially 
if it has been purified by means of charcoal. 

2560. To Test the duality of Aniline 
Colors. A good and practical way of testing 
the merits of aniline colors is to have, and 
keep on hand, a standard and measure of com- 
parison, a sample whose value and coloring 
power has been ascertained by actual practice. 
If a new supply of dye stuff is to be tested, 
weigh out equal quantities of the standard col- 
oring matter and of the one to be tested (say 
10 to 30 grains) ; dissolve them, using the 
same quantity of alcohol and water, in vessels 
of as nearly as possible equal size; intro- 
duce in each an equal quantity of white wool ; 
place them on a water bath; raise the 
temperature gradually, and after sufficient 
time has elapsed, take the two pieces out, dry 
them carefully, and compare them. That 
which has been dyed with the best dye, will, 
of course, show the fullest, brightest, and 
clearest color. Instead of testing on skeins of 
wool, Mr. Shuttleworth recommends small 
squares of white merino or cashmere, as af- 
fording a more even surface, and a greater 
mass of color. A known weight of the dye 
should be dissolved ia alcohol and added to 
the bath of warm water, with the necessary 
mordants. A square of cloth of known weight 
— say 10 grains — is immersed in the bath, and, 
after a stated time, removed. The strength 
and shade of the color can thus be compared 
with previous samples, dyed under like condi- 
tions. It is a good plan to paste these squares, 
by one edge, in a blank book, noting anything 
worthy of'remark on the margin. The colors 
are thus preserved from the action of the light, 
and will be found very useful for reference. 

2561. Test for Sugar in Aniline 
Dyes. Aniline blue and aniline green have 
been found adulterated with a considerable 
quantity of sugar. Mr. Joly, of Brussels, has 
also found this to be the case with red aniline 
colors, such as fuchsine, rubine, &c., the adul- 
teration amounting in some cases to as much 
as 50 per cent. The amount of sugar present 
can be ascertained by treating a sample of the 
suspected dye with absolute alcohol ; or, still 
better, with a mixture of alcohol and ether ; 
the sugar will remain undissolved. 

2562. To Remove Sugar from Ani- 
line Dyes. If it be found by the test given 
in iS^o. 2561, that an anihne color has been 
adulterated with sugar, this may be removed 
by repeatedly washing the color with cold 
water, which will dissolve the sugar. 



2563. General Directions for the Use 
of Aniline Dyes. It is impossible to use 
any dye, successfully, without due regard to 
cleanliness. This is, perhaps, more particu- 
larly the case with the anilines. The slightest 
trace of a foreign substance will often mate- 
rially alter the shade. Earthen or enameled 
vessels should be used whenever practicable. 
Iron is generally to be avoided, if for no other 
reason than that it is difficult to say when it 
is really clean. Woolen and silken goods, 
before being dyed, should be thoroughly 
washed in soap and water, and then carefully 
rinsed in clean rain water. Cotton requires a 
previous mordanting before it can be dyed 
with anilines, as vegetable fibre possesses no 
affinity for the colors. The preparation gen- 
erally consists in treatment by sumac, or 
stannate of soda, and subsequently by sul- 
phuric acid ; special directions will be given 
in those cases requiring particular treatment. 
Old fabrics which were dyed before, may be 
freed from color by previous boiling for an 
hour in strong soapsuds. The spirit used 
should be pure, and especially free from alde- 
hyde; methyl spirit does not appear to injure 
some of the dyes. Spirit containing shellac 
turns roseine of a bluish color. 

2564. To Distinguish Aniline from 
Other Dyes. Aniline colors, for dyeing pur- 
poses, are now used to such an extent through- 
out the country as almost to exclude all others, 
on account of their brilliancy and cheapness. 
They are, however, liable to lose in appearance 
by bright sunlight, and in lustre by the arti- 
ficial light of gas or candles. It is, therefore, 
deshable to have a ready means by which 
they can be recognized. This is all the more 
necessary, as arsenic acid is generally em- 
ployed in their preparation ; and a cloth that 
has been dyed with an aniline color containing 
it may have absorbed a considerable quantity 
of that dangerous article. The readiest way 
for its detection is to boil the flannel, or what- 
ever other cloth it may be, with a solution of 
caustic soda or potassa, and, after filtering 
the fluid from the residue, neutralizing it with 
hydrochloric acid. If the cloth has been 
dyed with an aniline color, the fluid will show 
a coloration. Most of the aniline dyes may 
also be extracted by boiling alcohol, which 
process, perhaps, can be performed in less 
time than the other. 

2565. To Remove Aniline Colors. 
There are various ways proposed to remove 
aniline colors, the following being the simplest 
and most practical. Goods dyed with aniline 
colors may easily be rendered white by the 
use of zinc gra}^ ; the metallic zinc contained 
in this powder reduces the colors, forming 
soluble colorless products. To apply the 
principle, triturate 100 grains zinc gray with 
50 grains mucilage marking 20° Baume, until 
the mixture is homogeneous ; incorporate 
with this 20 grains of a solution of hyposul- 
phite of soda markmg 20° Baume, apply this 
mixtm-e directly to the goods, let it dry and 
vaporize. After this operation it is best to 
wash the goods with water slightly acidulated 
with hydrochloric acid. Cotton goods may 
be bleached by chlorine or bleaching liquor, 
but this is not applicable to other than cotton 
fabrics. 
Another simple method consists in digest- 



24.0 



ANILIXE COLORS 



lag the fabrics for a sufficient length, of time 
in 90 per cent, alcohol, which usually com- 
pletes the decolorization in a short space of 
time. The same alcohol can be used several 
times in succession, and can afterward be puri- 
fied by rectification or redistillation, so as to 
involve but little loss. The work is best done 
in a well-covered copper kettle, which is to be 
set in boiling water. A little hydrochloric 
acid may be added if the articles are not too 
delicate, thereby increasing the solubility of 
the aniline colors. 

If all other methods fail, cyanide of po- 
tassium is absolutely certain. A stone vessel 
is to be selected, in which a small quantity of 
cyanide of potassium is to be introduced, and 
hot water poured upon it, so as to make a so- 
lution of 5° to 1° Baume. The whole is to 
be stirred well with a long and strong glass 
rod, and the operation conducted in the open 
air, so that no harm may result from the con- 
densation of the vapor. The fabric in question, 
previously well cleaned, is now placed in the 
vessel, and pushed under the liquid with the 
glass rod, and the top of the vessel laid on. 
It is advisable to keep the solution warm, by 
immersing the stone vessel in a wooden tub 
properly supplied with steam or hot water. 
After a short time the lid should be removed 
by taking it off at the end of a long handle, 
allowing the vapors to pass off before the 
operator comes near. By means of the glass 
rod the cloth is to be lifted, and if not entirely 
white, is to be replaced and the process con- 
tinued still longer. "When finished the cloth 
is to be transferred by means of the glass rod 
to a large vessel containing hot water, and 
stirred around for a time, then removed and 
rinsed off. The solution of the cyanide of 
potassium can be used several times without 
losing its power. Cyanide of potassium is a 
deadly poison ; contact with any sore or cut 
is extremely dangerous, and inhaling its va- 
por is sudden death. 

2566. To Remove Stains of Aniline 
from, the Hands. The best way to remove 
such stains from the hands is to either wash 
them with strong alcohol, or what perhaps is 
more effectual, to wash them with a little 
bleaching powder, and finally with alcohol. 

2567. Phosphate of Lime as a Mor- 
dant. A rather thick syrupy solution of phos- 
phate of lime (bone-ash) in hydrochloric acid 
kaving been recently recommended as a mor- 
dant to be used after a previous sumaching 
of the goods, Dr. Eeimann states that, accord- 
ing to his researches, the phosphate of lime 
solution is altogether superfiuous for aniline 
dyes, since a sumaching with 4 pounds 
sumach to 20 pounds cotton is of itself a 
sufficient mordanting to fix aniline colors ex- 
cellently. The application of the phosphate 
of lime solution as a mordant for cochineal 
colors upon cotton he also considers as quite 
useless. 

2568. New Mordant Applicable to 
Aniline Colors. For this purpose the oxide 
of zinc, in accordance with a patent taken out 
in France by MM. Biot and Thisau, may be 
used for mordanting aniline blue upon cotton, 
or the iodine green upon wool. The mordant- 
ing is effected by simply immersing the goods 
for some hours in a bath of cold water, in 
which chloride or acetate of zinc has been dis- 



solved until the solution shows 2° Baum^ ; 
for the wool the mordanting bath should be 
at a boihng heat, and the goods should also 
be placed in a warm bath of tannin 90° Fahr. 
for half an hour. In dyeing, a hot solution oi 
the color must be used, to which should be 
added, in the case of the cotton, some chloride 
of zinc, and, in the case of the wool, a certain 
amount of tannin solution. 

2569. To Dye Aniline Opal Blue on 
Cotton. To mordant the aniline color known 
as opal blue upon cotton it is recommended 
to rinse the goods, after bleaching, in a dilute 
solution of soda crystals, to neutralize the 
acid of bleaching, then to pass them into a 
hot bath of soap, in which oil exists in emul- 
sion in these proportions: TVater, 100 liters (211 
pints); soap, 8 kilos (211 pounds troy) ; oil, 
2 kilos (5|- pounds trey). Wring them out, 
dry, and pass them into a solution of acetate 
of alumina of about 4° or 5° Baume, wring 
out, dry, and rinse hi hot water. Finally dye 
in a solution of opal blue to which acetic acid 
has been added. The temperature of the dye 
bath should be 75° to 90° Fahr. Rinse and 
dry. 

2570. DifB-Culty in Dyeing Cotton with 
Aniline. This difficulty consists in the ir- 
regularity of intensity of color when the ani- 
line colors are applied. This effect is attri- 
buted to the unequal oxidation of the tin salts 
applied before dipping the goods into the dye 
bath -, in using these colors, avoid the use of 
the tin salts, which have little or no beneficial 
effect on the results in any case ; and dip the 
goods into the dye bath, after treating with 
infusion of nut-galls or sumach. If tin must 
be used, the best salt of that metal is the bi- 
chloride. 

2571. Aniline Black. When a salt of 
aniline in solution is exposed to the action 
of certain oxydizers, as salts of copper, 
chlorate, and bichromate of potassa, it yields 
a black dye, of such depth that ordinary gaU 
or madder blacks appear gray or green in 
comparison. The fastness of this color, its 
resistance to the action of acids, alkalies, 
soaps, and sunlight, render it of great import- 
ance to manufacturers, and make it one of 
the great achievements of late years. 

2572. Aniline Black for Dyeing. 
According to Mr. Kochlin, aniline black is 
produced as follows : Water, 20 to 30 parts ; 
chlorate of potassa, 1 part ; sal ammoniac, 1 
part ; chloride of copper, 1 part ; aniline, hy- 
drochloric acid, of each 1 part, previously 
mixed together. Several other formulae for 
producing aniline blacks have been devised 
for dyeing purposes. It is essential in each 
of them, and always, that the preparation 
shall be acid, and the more acid it is, the 
more rapid is the production of the blacks. 
The action, of course, if it be excessive, will 
be likely to injure the fibre of the fabric. 

2573. Aniline Black on Wool. For 
2 pounds of wool a bath is prepared of 20 
quarts water, 3 ounces pennanganate of 
potassa, 4^ ounces sulphate of magnesia. 
The use of sulphate of magnesia has for its 
object, to prevent the formation of caustic 
alkah, and has abeady been proposed by 
Tessie du Mothay. The wool is impregnated 
with this solution, and left in it until the fluid 
has become colorless, or nearly so, whereby it 



ANILINE COLORS. 



24:1 



U colored dark-brown and covered with brown 
oxide of manganese. This process takes place 
easily in the cold, but it is best to dissolve 
the permanganate in hot water. The wool is 
now pressed oat, and, without washing, con- 
veyed into a bath of 12 ounces commercial 
aniline oil, 21 ounces commercial hydrochloric 
acid, and 8 quarts water, where it is moved 
about in the cold ; it attains here directly a 
dark green-black color. It is pressed out 
again, washed in water containing a little 
soda, and treated with a weak solution of 
•J- ounce bichromate of potassa in 10 quarts 
water. The color becomes now dark black, 
when the wool is washed with water and 
dried. 

2574. Persoz's Aniline Black for 
"Wool or Silk. Steep the silk or wool for 1 
hour at a boihug heat, in a bath consisting of 
5 grammes (77 grains) bichromate of potassa, 
3 grammes (46 grains) sulphate of copper, 
and 2 grammes (31 grains) oil of vitriol, for 
each litre (2-iV pints) of water used. It is then 
thoroughly washed, and afterward passed 
through ai solotiou of oxalate of aniline mark- 
ing 1° to 2° Baume, in which it at once as- 
sumes a black color. In case the fabric con- 
tains a vegetable fibre, the first bath must be 
replaced by a series of baths resulting in 
chromate of lead. This is efi'ected by succes- 
sive passages through a solution of nitrate or 
acetate of lead, then through a hot one of 
sulphate of soda; and lastly through a cold 
bath of from 5 to 20 grammes (77 to 300 grains) 
bichromate of potash to the litre (2-iV pints) 
of water. 

2575. To Prepare Magenta for Dye- 
ing'. This color, which is also called rosein, 
fuchsine, and aniline red, is the best known of 
the series. It is better adapted for the pre- 
paration of a Hquid dye than any other. In 
the hands of the amateur it can be used with 
economy, and the results obtained are gener- 
ally satisfactory. It is readily soluble in alco- 
hol, and to some extent in water. The latter 
property is taken advantage of by dyers, the 
dye bath being prepared directly from the 
crystals. It is, however, preferable to use 
alcohol for dissolving the color, as the solu- 
bility in water is not always the same with 
difi'erent samples. To 1 pound of the crystals 
add 2i gallons of spmt .8200 specific gravity. 
The solution may be conveniently made in an 
ordinary 5-gallon tin. Agitate frequently, 
and add 21 gallons of hot water. This pro- 
duct will be suitable for sale as a liquid dye, 
but for dyers' use, where a large quantity of 
water is admissable, 1^ gallons of spirit will 
be found sufficient. It is sometimes necessary 
to filter before using. 

2576. To Dye Silk or Wool Magenta. 
Suffi.cient water to cover, without difficulty, 
the fabric to be dyed, is brought to a temper- 
ature of about 170° Fahr. ; a sufficient quan- 
tity of the dye is added, and followed by the 
immersion of the goods, which should be 
moved about to prevent streaks. About half 
an hour's immersion is sufficient. Half an 
ounce of the crystals should give a fair shade 
to 10 pounds of wool. A bath of soap-suds is 
sometimes employed instead of water, and by 
the use of alkah, brighter, but perhaps less 
permanent colors are produced. Acids render 
the shade dull and bluish. 



2577. To Dye Cotton Magenta. 

Place the cotton in a bath of sumach (1 pound 
sumach to 10 pounds cotton) for 2 hours. 
Wring out, and dye in the same manner as 
wool. {See previous receipt.) A brighter 
shade is given by dissolving i ounce soap in 
hot water, letting the solution cool to 90°, 
adding 2 5 ounces olive oil, and mixing with 
tepid water. In this 5 pounds of cotton may 
be worked for about 5 minutes. A bath con- 
taining i pound sumach and 1 ounce tin 
crystals is next prepared, through which tha 
cotton should be passed, wrung out, and 
finally dyed in a bath of magenta and pure 
water. 

2578. Aniline Cerise and Safranine. 
These colors resemble magenta in appearance, 
and appear to be varieties of that substance. 
They are readily soluble in alcohol; and more 
or less so in water. The colors produced are 
similar to those obtained from safflower, but 
possess greater vivacity and permanence. The 
shades are exceedingly delicate and beautiful, 
inclining to pink with a shade of yellow. The 
dye bath is prepared, and the fabric dyed, in 
the same manner as magenta. {See Nos. 
2575, 4x.) 

2579. To Dye Aniline YeUow. This 
color is slightly soluble in water, and for 
dyers' use may be used directly for the pre- 
pai'ation of the dye bath. It is, however, 
preferably prepared in a liquid state, by dis- 
solving 1 pound of dye in 2 gallons of alcohol. 
{See No. 2575.) Without any addition to the 
dye bath very good yellows may be produced,, 
but the color is much improved and bright- 
ened by a trace of sulphuric acid. The 
temperature of the bath should be under 
200° Fahr. 

2580. Schiffs Aniline Yellow. This 
matter, according to Schiif, is easily prepared 
by means of hydrated antimonic or stannic 
acid. Stanuate of soda or other alkaline anti- 
moniate or stannate is to be pounded with 
hah" its weight of anihne to a clear pulpy 
consistence, then hydrochloric acid is added 
till the acid reaction takes place. It is then 
shaken up, and the scarlet color removed by 
etherized alcohol, the mass being, of course, 
previously dried. After proper purification it 
is allowed to evaporate spontaneously, and in 
this way are formed flakes of a hydrochlorate, 
having for base a red coloring matter, which 
must not be confounded with rosaniline. 
When this hydrochlorate is decomposed by 
alkalies, deep yellow flakes are deposited, 
which again become red in presence of acids. 
By impregnating silk or wool with this red 
color, and then passing it into a hot solution 
of carbonate of soda, a beautiful yellow tint 
is developed, similar to the yellow of picric 
acid, and which M. Schifi" claims to possess 
considerable stability. 

2581. To Dye 'with. Aniline Crimson. 
A solid dye, belonging to the same series as 
the preceding, is sold as crimson, but it doef~ 
not appear to differ very materially from ma 
genta, giving shades with a trifle less blub. 
It is applied in the same manner as magenta. 
{See Nos.2'o'7h, <f'C.) Much better colors are 
obtained by the use of aniUne yellow {see No. 
2579) and magenta. The former may be ap- 
plied in the manner indicated for that color, 
and the fabric so dyed must be passed through 



S42 



ANILINE COL OB 8. 



a bath of magenta until the required shade is 
produced. By mixing the liquid yellow and 
mft-genta dyes in a bath of soap-suds, nearly 
every shade from magenta to orange may be 
obtained. This will be found a satisfactory 
method for amateurs. 

2582. To Prepare Aniline Scarlet 
Dye. To produce this color, aniline scarlet 
dye may be used. IsTeither this nor coralline 
is adapted for amateur use, as great exactness 
is required in compounding the dye feath. 
For the use of amateurs, aniline yellow and 
magenta, as indicated for crimson {see No. 
2581) is recommended. To produce scarlet 
the yellow should predominate, or the bath 
may be rendered slightly sour by sulphuric 
acid. Aniline scarlet dissolves easily in wa- 
ter, and the bath may be made directly from 
the gohd substance. A liquid dye may be 
made, if desired, by dissolving 1 pound scarlet 
in 4 gallons water and 1 gallon alcohol. 

2583. To Dye with Aniline Scarlet. 
Add to the bath containing the dye, an excess 
of alum and cream of tartar ; neutralize care- 
fully by carbonate of soda — the exact point 
may be known by the liquid changing from a 
yellowish to a pinkish red. 

2584. To Dye Aniline Scarlet. For 
every 40 pounds of goods, dissolve 5 pounds 
white vitriol (sulphate of zinc) at 180° Fahr.^ 
place the goods into this bath for 10 minutes, 
then add the color, prepared by boiling for a few 
minutes, 1 pound anihne scarlet in 3 gallons 
water, stirring the same continually. This 
solution has to be jGlltered before being added 
to the bath. The goods remain in the latter 
for 15 minutes, when they have become 
browned, and must be boiled for another half 
hour in the same bath, after the addition of 
sal ammoniac. The more of this is added the 
redder the shade will become. 

2585. To Prepare Coralline Dye. 
Dissolve 1 pound coralline in li gallons alco- 
hol specific gravity .8200, by the aid of heat; 
mix the solution with 7^ gallons boiling wa- 
ter, and re-dissolve the precipitated dye by 
the cautious addition of water of ammonia. 

2586. To Dye with Coralline. Add 
the color prepared as in 'So. 2585, to the dye 
bath, and neutrallize with acetic acid. The 
exact point is indicated by the pink color of 
the solution changing to an orange red. Im- 
merse the goods, and, when the required color 
is obtained, remove and wash in a bath of 
soap-suds. 

2587. Water-Glass as a Solvent of 
Coralline. Dissolve coralline in a boiling 
mixture of 1 part concentrated water-glass 
(silicate of soda or potassa of the consistency 
of a thick syrup), and 4 parts water, and, after 
cooling, apply this solution as a paint for 
wood (white woods containing little or no 
tannic acid are preferable), paper, toys, artifi- 
cial flower tissues, &g., to all of which ma- 
terials this solution of coralline imparts a 
beautiful carmine red tint. 

2588. Preparation of Innoxious Cor- 
alline. M. Guyot states that coralline is fre- 
quently poisonous, because the rosolic acid, 
used to obtain it, contains phenol (carbolic 
acid), and this dangerous quality in the pro- 
duct can only be avoided by using the exact 
proportions necessary, in manufacturing the 
compounds. 



2589. To Prepare Aniline Brown for 

Dyeing. This color may be used as a liquid 
dye, and for this purpose 1 pound of the brown 
may be dissolved in 2 gallons of spirit specific 
gravity 8200. 

2590. To Dye with Aniline Brown. 
Add a sufficient quantity of the dye, prepared 
according to the previous receipt, to the dye 
bath, and immerse the fabric. "Wool possesses 
a very strong affinity for this color, and no 
mordant is required. A snuff brown, more or 
less deep, is produced. 

2591. To Prepare Bismarck Brown 
for Dyeing. Mix together 1 pound Bis- 
marck, 5 pounds water, and f pound sulphuric 
acid. This paste dissolves easily in hot water 
and may be used directly for dyeing. A li- 
quid dye may be prepared by making the bulk 
of the above mixture to 2 gallons with alcohol. 

2592. To Dye Wool Bismarck Brown. 
Eender the bath, prepared as in No. 2591, sour 
with sulphuric acid; add a quantity of sulphate 
of soda, immerse the wool, and add the color 
by small portions, keeping the temperature 
under 212° Fahr. Yery interesting shades 
may be developed by combining the color with 
indigo paste or picric acid. {See No. 2601.) 

2593. To Dye Cotton Bismarck 
Brown. Cotton requires mordanting with 
sumach and acetate of alumina, and is dyed in 
a bath under 100° Fahr., prepared according 
to ISTo. 2591. By the use of bichromate of pot- 
ash redder shades may be obtained. The usual 
color inclines to cinnamon. 

2594. To Dye with Vesuvine. This 
aniline color is prepared and used in the same 
manner as magenta. {See No. 2575, etc.) 

2595. To Dye with Aurine. Dissolve 
1 pound aurine in 2 gallons alcohol specific 
gravity .8200. This color is used principally 
for silk. Dye in a bath containing a trace of 
sulphuric acid. By combining with magenta 
{see No. 2575), very bright colors are produced. 

2596. To Dye with Palatine Orange. 
The palatine orange dye is prepared in a sim- 
ilar manner to magenta. {See No. ^blb.) Ren- 
der the bath slightly acid by bichloride of tin, 
and dye at the boihng point. A very'fast, but 
not very brilliant orange is produced. The 
color may be combined with magenta or indigo 
paste. 

2597. To Dye with Phosphine. 
Phosphine is treated in the same way as pala- 
tine, omitting the sulphuric acid, and substi- 
tuting a trace of carbonate of soda ; or use a 
soap bath. 

2598. To Dye Silk with Aniline 
Green. Iodine green, or night green, dis- 
solves easily in warm water. For a liquid 
dye, 1 pound may be dissolved in 1 gallon al- 
cohol, and mixed with 2 gallons of water con- 
taining 1 ounce sulphuric acid. This color is 
almost always a failure in the hands of the 
amateur, and is not recommended. For silk, 
no addition to the dye bath is required, the 
temperature being kept under 180° Fahr. 

2599. To Dye Wool with Aniline 
Grreen. For wool, prepare two baths, one 
containing the dissolved dye and a quantity of 
carbonate of soda, or borax. In this the wool 
is placed, and the temperature raised to 212° 
Fahr. A grayish green shade is produced, 
which must be brightened and fixed in a sec- 
ond bath of water at 100° Fahr., to which 



ANILINE COLORS. 



24:3 



swme acetic acid has been added. Cotton re- 
quires preparation by sumach, ( See No. 2577. ) 

2600. To Dye with Iodine Green. 

Mix 3 pounds of iodine green paste well with 
about 2| pounds of cold water ; then add suc- 
cessively, 1 pound acetic acid 8^^ Baume, 80 
pounds water of a temperature of 140° Fahr, 
and 2 pounds liquor ammonia, stirring the 
mixture well all the while, and filtering it 
before use. Bring the dye bath to the boil- 
ing point ; put in as much of the solution as is 
necessary for the shade required, and dye for 
half an hour, letting the bath cool off in the 
meantime. Then have a second water bath 
of 140° Fahr, ready, prepared as follows, viz. : 
For every 20 pounds of wool, add 2 pound sul- 
phuric acid 63° Baume, and i pound per- 
chloride of tin crystals, the latter previously 
dissolved in an equal quantity of water. Take 
the goods from the first bath, without washing, 
into the second bath, turn them in it for 15 
minutes, and the green will develop vividly. 
For yellowish tints, shade off with picric acid 
(see No. 2G01), which must be added to the 
second bath and dyed quickly. By this 
method, 1 pound of iodine green paste will 
dye 12 pounds of wool a medium shade. Pre- 
serve the first bath, inasmuch as one-third of 
the dye remains in it, which circumstance is 
important in renewing the bath, which will, 
consequently, require one-third less dye-stuff 
when making it for the second lot. 

2601. To Dye with Picric Acid. Dis- 
solve 1 pound picric acid in 1 gallon of alcohol 
specific gravity .8200. The dye bath requires 
no addition, or especial precaution. This color 
is used to produce shades of lemon and canary 
which cannot be attained by the ardline yellow 
or phosphine. Its chief use is for dyeing 
green. For this purpose pass the fabric 
through a bath containing sulphuric acid and 
alum, adding, after thorough immersion, a 
sufficient quantity of solution of picric acid 
and indigo extract {see No. 99) to produce the 
desired shade. 

2602. To Dye with Aniline Blue. To 
100 pounds of fabric dissolve 1:^ pounds of ani- 
line blue in 3 quarts hot alcohol; strain 
through a filter, and add it to a bath of 130° 
Fahr., also 10 pounds Glauber's salts and 5 
pounds acetic acid. Enter the goods, and 
handle them well for 20 minutes ; next heat it 
slowly to 200° Fahr. ; then add 5 pounds sul- 
phuric acid diluted with water. Let the whole 
boil 20 minutes longer, then rinse and dry. 
If the aniline be added in two or three propor- 
tions during the process of coloring, it will 
faciUtate the evenness of the color. The blue, 
or red shade of blue, is governed by the kind 
of aniline used, as there is a variety in the 
market. Hard and close-wove fabrics, such 
as braid, ought to be prepared in a boihng solu- 
tion of 10 pounds sulphuric acid and 2 pounds 
tartaric acid before coloring with the anihne, 
as this will make the fabric more susceptible 
to the color. Blues soluble in water color 
more easily than those which have to be dis- 
solved in alcohol. 

2603. To Dye Silk or "Wool with Ani- 
line Blue. In this manner are used the va- 
rieties of aniline blues known as Bleu de Lijon, 
Pure Blue, Red Blue, and all others soluble in 
alcohol. Into a stone jar fitted with a cover, 
through which a hole is made to admit a stick 



for stirring, put 1 pound of the dye, 5 gallons al- 
cohol specific gravity .8200, and 2 ounces sul- 
phuric acid; ai)ply the heat of a water bath 
aud stir frequently. After allowing the mix- 
ture to cool, filter, and treat any undissolved 
residue with fresh alcohol until complete so- 
lution is effected. From 5 to 8 gallons will be 
required. The dye bath for wool should be 
rendered sour by sulphuric acid. Tin crystals 
may be nsed, in quantity equal to about 4^ 
the weight of the wool, to improve the viva- 
city of the shade. The bath should be brought 
to the boiling point. For silk, prepare a soap 
bath, add the color, and put in the goods. 
When dyed sufficiently, pass through a bath 
acidulated with sulphuric acid. 

2604. To Dye Cotton with Aniline 
Blue. Cotton is prepared as for magenta 
{see No. 2577), and dyed in an acid bath as for 
wool. {SeeNo.2mi.) 

2605. To Dye with Aniline Water- 
Blue. This color is quite soluble in water, 
and will answer well for preparing a liquid 
dye ; 1 pound may be dissolved in a mixture 
of 1 gallon alcohol and 4 gallons water. Dyers 
dissolve the powder in the dyo bath. The dye 
is nsed in the same way as Bltudo Lyon. {See 
No. 2603,) 

2606. To Dye with Alkali Blue and 
Nicholson's Blue. Dissolve 1 pound of the 
dye in 10 gallons boiling water. Add this, by 
small portions, to the dye bath, which should 
be rendered alkaline by borax. The fabric 
should be well worked about between each 
addition of the color ; the temperature must 
be kept under 212° Fahr. If the right pro- 
portion of borax has been used the goods will 
show but little color when removed from the 
bath. To develop this, wash with water and 
pass through a bath containing sulphuric acid. 

2607. To Dye with Aniline Violet 
and Purple. The various aniline purples 
known as Parme, Violet de Fuclisin, Victoria 
Violet, and Amaranth, are used in the same 
manner as Bleu de Lyon {see No. 2603), omit- 
ting the sulphuric acid. Acidulate the bath by 
sulphuric acid, or use sulphate of soda ; both 
these substances render the shade bluish. 
Dye at 212°. To give a fair middle shade to 
10 pounds of wool, a quantity of solution 
equal to -^ to f ounce of the solid dye will be 
required. The color of the dyed fabric is im- 
proved by washing in soap and water, and 
then passing through a bath soured by sul- 
phm-ic acid. According to Mr. Hirsch, cotton 
is treated as follows : Prepare the goods for 
fuchsine, aud turn them over a few times in a 
tepid solution of 2^ ounces crystaUized per- 
chloride of tin, for every 10 pounds of goods. 
Remove the latter, add as much violet solu- 
tion as the shade requires, dye for a quarter of 
an hour, wring well, and dry. "Washing in a 
solution of alum and starch will render the 
color more solid. 

2608. To Dye with HoflEinan's Purple. 
The dye is prepared as other purples. {See 
No. 2607.) Some authorities maintain that 
this color does not require the addition of acid 
to the dye bath, but the color is apt to rub 
off when dyed in this manner. A trace of 
tartar, or of tartaric, oxalic, or any vegetable 
acid may be used with advantage ; but min- 
eral acids are to be particularly avoided. The 
bath should be kept at a boiling temperature. 



24=4. 



LIQUID COLORS. 



2609. To Dye Woolens Blue with 
Aniline. To the water in the vat sulphuric 
acid is added in sufficient quantity to cause it 
to taste as acid as vinegar ; it is then brought 
to boiling, and kept so for 10 minutes ; some 
blue aniline liquor is then added with stirring; 
the goods are submerged, and kept under 
while boiling until the water has lost its 
color; after which they are removed, fresh 
liquor is added, and the process continued 
until the desired color has been given, the wa- 
ter being kept constantly at a boil. {See No. 
333.) 

2610. To Dye Silk Blue with Aniline. 
Silk is steeped first for an hour in lukewarm 
water, acidulated with sulphuric acid, as for 
woolens in the last receipt, and the color must 
be added in 4 to 5 small portions, raising the 
temperature gradually to boiling, and contin- 
uing it at that, when a good color has been 
obtained, for some 5 to 10 minutes. The old 
bath is then replaced by fresh water, which is 
acidified with sulphuric acid, and in which 
the silk is boiled for 10 minutes ; after which 
it is thoroughly washed in water and then in 
suds, afterwards again in water, then once 
more drawn through acidulated water, and 
lastly through water alone. {See No. 333.) 

2611. To Dye Silks or Woolens Vio- 
let or Purple with Aniline. Yiolets and 
purples are produced on wool in the same 
manner as the blue ; on silk the same method 
is used likewise, but the water must only be 
heated short of boiling. {See Nos. 315 and 
316.) 

2612. Jacobson's Method of Com- 
bining Fat and Oil with Aniline Red. 
The following process is given for this purpose 
by Dr. E. Jacobson. Fu'st separate rosan- 
iline from commercial fuchsine by heating 
with soda or digestion with ammonia ; wash 
and dry it. An oleate or stearate of rosani- 
line is next obtained by adding the rosanihne 
to oleic acid or melted stearic acid as long as 
it will dissolve, or by putting them together 
in equivalent proportions. An excess of oleic 
acid must be avoided when the compound is 
required for a varnish, as it delays the drying. 
Oleate or stearate of rosaniline easily dissolves 
in fats or oils, and colors these an intense red. 
If it is wanted for a linseed oil varnish, the 
Unseed oil must be free from lead. The com- 
pound must be kept from the fire, or it soon 
turns blue, probably by the reducing action 
of the fatty acids. The best red color is ob- 
tained in linseed oil varnish. Stearine with 
oleate or stearate of rosaniline appears a blu- 
ish red. Paraffine appears to act as a reduc- 
ing agent with the compounds of fatty acids 
and aniline, and changes to a dirty violet 
color ; the mixture then is inappHcable to the 
coloring of paraffine or stearine candles. The 
oleate or stearate of rosaniline is a good color- 
ing agent for hair oil or pomatum, but, from 
the instabifity of the color, seems iaapplicable 
for oil painting. 

26 1 3 . Dyeing with Fuchsine on Wool 
or Silk. Fuchsine (the crystals of acetate of 
rosaniline), or the solution, is mixed with cold 
water for silk, or in water of 130° to 140° 
Fahr. for wool, which temperature is kept up. 
For silk, a few drops of acetic acid are also 
added. The strength of the dye regulates 
the quantity which is required. The goods 



are merely immersed in the bath until they 
have taken up sufficient of the color ; it is not 
always advisable to work them about while in 
the bath. 



y iquid Colors for Various 

J— 4 Purposes. These receipts in- 
clude the preparation and appliance of such 
liquid colors as are used to tinge or impart 
color to matter generally. Their particular 
uses and appliances are specified in the receipt 
given for each preparation. In addition to 
those here given, a number of other receipts 
for coloring matter have been necessarily in- 
cluded under the respective headings of the 
special objects for which they are used, 
and will be readily found by consulting the 
index. 

2615. Soluble Prussian Blue. Add 
a solution of protosulphate of iron to a solution 
of prussiate of potash, and expose the precipi- 
tate to the air till it becomes blue, and wash it 
till the soluble salts are washed away. By 
continuing the washing, the blue itself dis- 
solves, forming a deep blue solution, which 
may be evaporated without decomposition. 
Or, add a solution of persulphate of iron to a 
solution of ferropmssiate of potash, keeping 
the latter in excess; wash the precipitate 
until it begins to dissolve, and dry it. {See 
No. 2488 /or another method.) 

2616. Chemique, or Chemic Blue. 
Sulphate of Indigo. To 7 or 8 parts of oil of 
vitriol, in a glass or earthen vessel, placed in 
cold water, add gradually 1 part of fine indigo 
in powder, stirring the mixture at each addi- 
tion with a glass rod or piece of tobacco-pipe. 
Cover the vessel for 24 hours, then dilute with 
an equal weight of water. Sometimes it is 
sold without diluting. The German fuming 
acid answers best, 4 or 5 parts of it being suf- 
ficient for 1 of indigo. For dyeing silk, &c., 
carbonate of potash, soda, or ammonia, is 
added, to neutralize the acid, taking care not 
to add it in excess. {See Nos. 98 and 4791.) 

2617. Liefchild's Patent Blue for 
Linen. Mix 4 parts Chinese blue, 1 of Tum- 
bull's blue, and 1 of oxalic acid ; gradually add 
boiling water until the whole is dissolved, and 
lastly 4 parts of sulphate of indigo. The lat- 
ter is made with 1 part indigo, and 4 sulphuric 
acid, neutralized with carbonate of ammonia. 

2618. Blue for Linen. The ordinary 
kinds of cake blue consist of indigo and starch. 

2619. Solvents for Indigo. Indigo will 
dissolve in Yenice turpentine heated to its 
boiling point, or in boiling paraffine, with the 
same blue color as the solution of sulphuric 
acid; and in petroleum it forms a carmine so- 
lution, while in spermaceti it produces a car- 
mine-violet, and in stearic acid a blue color. 

2620. Bluing; for Clothes. Take 1 
ounce of soft Prussian blue, powder it and put 
in a bottle with 1 quart of clear rain water, 
and add ^ ounce of oxalic acid. A tea-spoonful 
is sufficient for a large washing. 

2621. Purified Annotto. To a boiling 
solution of pearlash add as much annotto as it 
win dissolve. When cold, decant the clear 
solution, and neutralize with diluted sulphuric 
acid, avoiding any excess. AVash the precipi- 
tate with a little cold water, and dry it. 



LTQVTD COLONS. 



24:5 



2622. Solution of Annotto. Boil equal 
'N^'eights of annotto and pearlasli with water, 
and'dilute to the required color. 

2623. Cochineal Coloring. Take 1 
ounce each powered cochineal, carbonate of 
potash, bitartrate of potash, and alum; boil 
these in a glazed vessel with 7 ounces water 
and 1 ounce spirit of wine, until effervescence 
ceases (about 10 minutes). In this liquid dis- 
solve an equal weight of refined sugar by 
means of sufficient heat, and set aside for use. 
This coloring remains bright for any length of 
time, does not throw down any precipitate, 
and is almost unalterable by contact with 
either acids or alkalies, which is no small ad- 
vantage. Dickson's coloring has some disad- 
vantages in the large quantity of spirit and the 
delicacy of the ammonia tint. The first would 
have a tendency to cause a cloudy appearance 
in brigbt jellies and other preparations con- 
taining gelatine, and the ammonia color would 
be liable to be completely changed when 
brought in contact with lemon juice, baked 
pears, and other acids met with in the many 
culinary pui-poses for which the article is 
largely used. 

2624. Dickson's Cochineal Coloring. 
Mis together 2 ounces spirit of wine and 6 
ounces water. In 3 ounces of this mixture in- 
fuse 1 ounce powdered cochineal for 15 min- 
utes, in a flask heated to nearly boiling point. 
Pour the infusion into another vessel, and re- 
peat the process with 3 ounces more of the 
mixed spirit and water ; and a third time, with 
the remaining 2 ounces. Let the liquid stand 
till cold, when some fatty matter will rise to 
the surface ; filter, adding spirit and water, up 
to eight fluid ounces. Lastly, add sufficient 
strong water of ammonia to change the infu- 
sion to the desired tint. The coloring is thus 
prepared without carbonate of potash, alum, 
etc., and is free from the objections that at- 
tach to the coloiing obtained by the aid of 
those substances. (See last receipt.) These 
objections are : — 1st, the coloring matter is 
thrown down as a lake, and after some time 
forms a layer at the bottom of the containing 
vessel, requiring the addition of ammonia to 
re-dissolve and keep it in solution ; and — ^2d, 
it does not keep well. On the other hand, the 
advantages of Dickson's preparation are : — 1st, 
the coloring-matter remains in solution, and 
— ^2d, it keeps well, and has no unpleasant 
odor. 

2625. Cochineal Coloring. Macerate 
1 ounce best carmine in 6 ounces strong solu- 
tion of ammonia, nntil it is dissolved." Heat 
gently to drive off excess of ammonia, taking 
care not to carry it too far, so as to precipitate 
the carmine. JPut into a quart wine bottle, 
and add 4 ounces rectified spirit and 3 pounds 
white sugar. Fill up with warm water, and 
shake until the sugar is dissolved. This is a 
splendid coloring. 

2626. Black Lustre Color for Paper, 
Cloth, or "Wood. Dr. Kielmeyer gives a re- 
ceipt which is adapted for either paper, cloth, 
or porous wood. He states thatit stands well, 
is very supple, and has no tendency to get 
sticky. To prepare it, boil together 8 pounds 
glue, previously dissolved in 16 pounds water ; 
1 pound potato starch, dissolved in 5^ pounds 
water; 5^ pounds campeachy extract of 6^ 
Baume, 1 pound 2 ounces green vitriol, and 



8f pounds brown glycerine. When thoroughly 
mixed, remove the pot from the fire, and con- 
I tinue to sth- until the liquid is cold. If the 
I paint be desired thicker or thinner, the amount 
j of starch and glue must be varied as weU as 
: the other materials, or the lustre will suffer. 

2627. Black Produced by the Mixture 
of Colorless Liquids. One of the most in- 
teresting phenomena in the operations of 
chemistry occurs in the decomposition of sul- 
phate of iron by gaxfic acid. Into a wine-glass, 
containing the infusion of galls, pour a sokition 
of the sulphate of iron. The gallic acid, frem 
its superior elective affinity to the iron, de- 
taches it from its former combination with the 
sulphuric acid, and in a short time these two 
fluids, previously colorless, become intensely 
black. To make this black fluid into ink, 
nothing but a little gum is required, to retard 
the precipitation of the coloring matter. 

2628. To Make Liquid Blue. Put 
into a bottle 1 ounce pure Prussian blue, in 
fine powder, and pour upon it 2 ounces con- 
centrated hydrochloric acid. Effervescence 
ensues, and the mixture soon assumes the 
consistence of a thin paste. Leave it for 24 
hours, and then dilute with 8 or 9 ounces 
water, and bottle it. The whole may be 
further diluted with a quart of water and still 
retain a sufficiently dark color for washing 
muslins, etc. The common blue writing fluid 
is thus prepared. 

2629. Carmine Purple. The dye re- 
cently invented, and known as carmine purple, 
is obtained by the solution of uric acid in 
nitric acid, care being taken to prevent boil- 
ing over and too great an tucrease of temper- 
ature. The mixture should remain standing 
quietly for some days, after which a thick, 
pasty, or doughy substance is obtained, which 
is to be treated with warm water, filtered, and 
the residuum again treated with wann water. 
The filtered liquid possesses a reddish or yel- 
lowish color, resulting from the organic sub- 
stances decomposed by the nitric acid. It is 
next to be evaporated in a large enameled 
iron vessel, but not heated to the boihng 
point, which would destroy the murexide 
(carmine purple) produced. After the liquid 
has been evaporated to a syrupy consistency, 
and has assumed a beautiful brownish-red or 
violet color, it is to be allowed to cool. The 
entire quantity of the liquid should never be 
evaporated at one time, nor heated to the boil- 
ing point. 

2630. To Color with Alkanet Root. 
Anchnsa Tinctoria gives a fine red tinge to 
oils, fats, wax, tm'pentine, spirits, essences, 
etc., and is used to color hair oil, pomatums, 
ointments, varnishes, etc. The spirituous so- 
lution stains marble of a deep red ; wax tinged 
with alkanet and applied to warm marble, 
leaves a fresh color. 

2631 . To Color with Mallow or Malva 
Flowers. The mallow or malva flower is a 
native of Europe, growing abundantly on 
waste gi-ounds and by the waysides. It is 
also sometimes cultivated in this country. 
This flower, which gives a beautiful color to 
water, is used for coloring port and claret 
wines, and it is considered one of the best ar- 
ticles that can be employed for that purpose. 
TTeigh 2 pounds, and steep the red petals m 
cold water for 5 or 6 hours. Tartaric acid 



24r6 



2IQUID COLORS. 



mixed with the mallow gives a bright red 
color, and salt of tartar (carbonate of potassa) 
a deep purple red. 

2632. To Purify Caramel. The cara- 
mel of commerce is spirit coloring, or a solu- 
tion of bm-nt sugar in water. {See No. 694.) 
In this state it is mixed with variable quanti- 
ties of undecomposed sugar and certain bitter 
compounds. To render it quite pure, it should 
be dissolved in water, filtered, and alcohol 
added until it ceases to produce a precipitate. 
The caramel is thus thrown down, while the 
impurities remain in solution. Pure caramel 
is a black or dark brown powder, soluble in 
water, to which it gives a rich sepia tint; it is 
insoluble in alcohol, and incapable of ferment- 
ation. 

2633. Blue Dye from Molybdenum. 
According to late experiments by Professor 
Boettger, based upon some previous researches 
of Dr. Schonn, if molybdic acid be dissolved 
to saturation in concentrated sulphuric acid 
with heat, an uncolored clear fluid is obtained, 
forming a double acid of sulphuric and molyb- 
dic acid. If a little of this double acid be 
placed in a porcelain dish and heated till it 
tsegins to throw off white vapors, and then a 
certain quantity of absolute alcohol be gradu- 
ally added, a beautiful blue color is developed, 
as if by magic, by means of which silk can be 
dyed without the use of any mordant. 

2634. Mordants. Substances employed 
to fix the coloring matters cf dye-stuffs on 
organic fibres, and to give them brilliancy and 
permanency. This they effect, either by their 
strong aflSnity for the fibre and the dye matter, 
serving as a bond of union between the two, 
or by uniting with, and rendering insoluble, 
the dye contained in the pores of the fibre. 
The principal mordants are alum, and the 
oxides of iron or tin. {See No. 93.) 

2635. To Color Butter. Pureannotto, 
when properly prepared, is very successfully 
used for imparting a good color to fall and 
winter butter. {See No. 2621.) Annotto of 
course adds nothing to the flavor or quality 
of butter, but as the pure article, when thus 
employed for coloring, is quite harmless, there 
can be no serious objection to its use. In 
coloring butter with annotto it is important 
that a prime article be used, and to have it 
prepared so that it shall be free from sedi- 
ment and adulteration. 

2636. To Color Pickles and Sweet- 
meats Green. A beautiful green color, en- 
tirely destitute of any poisonous qualities, may 
be made by dissolving 5 grains saffron in ^ 
ounce distilled water, and in another vessel 
dissolving 4 grains indigo carmine in ^ ounce 
distilled water. After shaking each up thor- 
oughly they are allowed to stand for 24 hours, 
and on being mixed together at the expiration 
of that time a fine green solution is obtained, 
capable of coloring 5 pounds of sugar. 

2637. Chameleon Mineral. Mix equal 
weights of black oxide of manganese and 
pure potash, and heat them in a crucible. 
Keep the compound in closely-stoppered bot- 
tles. A solution of it in water passes through 
various shades of color from green to red. 

2638. Cadmium YeUow Color for 
Soap. The chemical works of Schering, in 
Berlin, have introduced two shades of sulphide 
of cadmium, a lemon and orange yellow, for 



the coloring of toilet soap. Of all the agents 
thus far tried to give a lively yellow color to 
soap, sulphide of cadmium (cadmium yellow) 
has proved the most permanent. Age and 
sunlight do not affect the color, and the quan- 
tity required is exceedingly small. 

2639. To Color Soap YeUow with 
Cadmium. The cadmium yellow {see above) 
is rubbed up with oil, and added to the soap 
under constant stirring. The color is not dis- 
solved in the soap, but suspended in it, and 
much depends upon careful mixing. 

2640. Liquid Colors. The following, 
when thickened with a little gum, are used as 
inks for writing, as colors to tint maps, foils, pa- 
per, artificial flowers, <fec., and to paint on 
velvet. Some of them are very beautiful. It 
must be observed, however, that those made 
with strong spirit do not mix well with gum, 
unless diluted with water. 

2641. Liquid Blue. Dissolve litmus in 
water, and add ^ of spirit of wine. Or, dilute 
Saxon blue or sulphate of indigo with water. 
If required for delicate work, neutralize the 
acid with chalk. Or, to an aqueous infusion of 
litmus add a few drops of vinegar till it turns 
full blue. 

2642. Liquid Purple. Steep litmus in 
water, and strain. Or, add a little alum to a 
strained decoction of logwood. Or, add a solu- 
tion of carmine (red) to a little blue solution 
of litmus or Saxon blue. 

2643. Liquid Green. Dissolve crystal- 
lized verdigris in water. Or, dissolve sap 
green in water, and add a little alum. Or, add 
a little salt of tartar to a blue or purple solu- 
tion of litmus, till it turns green. Or, dissolve 
equal parts of crystallized verdigris and cream 
of tartar in water, and add a little gum-arabic. 
Used as an ink for writing. 

2644. Liquid Yellow. Dissolve gam- 
boge in water, and add a little gum-arabic and 
alum. Used for ink, to stain paper, color 
maps, &c. Or, dissolve gamboge in equal 
parts of proof spirit and water. Golden col- 
ored. Or, steep French berries in hot water, 
strain, and add a little gum and alum. Or, 
steep turmeric, round zedoary, gamboge, or 
annotto, in spirits of wine. Or, dissolve an • 
notto in a weak lye of subcarbonate of soda 
or potash. The above are used by artificial 
florists. 

2645. Liquid Red. Macerate ground 
Brazil in vinegar, boil a few minutes, strain, 
and add a little alum and gum. Or, add vine- 
gar to an infusion of litmus till it turns red. 
Or, boil or infuse powdered cochinteal in water; 
strain, and add a little alum and gum. Or, 
dissolve carmine in liquor of ammonia, or in 
weak carbonate of potash water ; the former 
is superb. {See No. 2623, #c.) 

2646. To Tint Maps or Architects* 
Plans. Maps, paper, or architects' plans may 
be tinted with any of the simple liquid colors 
just mentioned. To prevent the colors sink- 
ing and spreading, which they will usually do 
on common paper, the latter shoul(? be wetted 
2 or 3 times with a sponge dipped in alum 
water (3 or 4 ounces to the pint), cr a solu- 
tion of white size ; observing to dry it care- 
fully after each coat. This will tend to give 
lustre and beauty to the colors. Th-e colors 
themselves should also be thickened with 
gum. Before varnishing maps after coloring 



LIQUID COLORS. 



24.7 



them, 2 or 3 coats of clean size should be ap- 
plied with a brush. 

2647. Sizing for Prints or Engravings 
to be Colored. Dissolve 4 ounces finest 
pale glue, and 4 ounces white curd soap, in 3 
pints boiling water ; add 2 ounces powdered 
alum. Used for sizing prints and engravings 
before coloring them. 

2648. Druggists' Show Colors. These 
are bright and perfectly transparent liquid 
colors, employed by druggists in ornamental 
bottles for purposes of display, forming an at- 
tractive and distinctive ornament of a drug 
store window. It has for a long time been 
tried to render the beautiful colors of per- 
manganates more permanent. They are liable 
to decompose under the influence of light and 
atmospheric dust, and no way has as yet been 
discovered to obviate this difficulty. Many 
druggists have proposed to fill the bottles in 
their windows with solutions of aniline colors, 
but even these have to be renewed from time 
to time, ifeutral metallic salts^ that have 
neither tendency to oxydize nor to reduce, are 
best employed for this purpose. The receipts 
here given are among the very best and most 
used for this purpose. The mixtures require 
careful filtration through powdered glass in a 
glass funnel. It will be found desirable to 
make a little more liquid color than is actually 
required, to replace the loss occasioned by a 
second filtration (performed in the same man- 
ner as the first), which will probably be ne- 
cessary after exposure for a few weeks to the 
light: as any addition of water after filtra- 
tion, to make up the deficiency, tends to 
weaken the color and detract from its bright- 
ness. Druggists' show-bottles are now made 
of colored glass, and filled with pure water. 
These are just as eff'ective as the white glass 
bottles filled with colored waters, and obvious- 
ly involve much less trouble. 

2649. Amber. Digest 1 part dragon's 
bloody coarsely powdered, in 4 parts oil of 
vitriol ; when completely dissolved, dilute 
with distilled or soft water to the desired 
shade, and filter. {See No. 2648.) 

2650. Indigo Blue. Dissolve indigo in 
sulphuric acid, and dilute with pure water to 
the required shade of color; filter as directed 
in :N'o. 2648. 

2651. Blue. Dissolve 2 ounces sulphate 
of copper in 5 ounce oil of vitriol and 1 pint 
of pure water ; filter as in jSTo. 2648. 

2652. Prussian Blue. Dissolve pure 
Prussian blue in slightly diluted oxalic or 
muriatic (hydrochloric) acid; add water to 
bring the color to the desired shade, and filter. 
{See No. 2648.) 

2653. Pink. To a solution of chloride 
or nitrate of cobalt in water, add sufficient 
sesquicarbonate of ammonia to dissolve the 
precipitate at first formed. Filter as in iS^o. 
2648. Or : "Wash 1 ounce madder in cold wa- 
ter ; digest it, with agitation, for 24 hours in 
3 pints water containing 4 ounces sesqui- 
carbonate of ammonia; then dilute with water 
to the desired shade, and filter as above. 

2654. Purple. To an infusion of log- 
wood, add sufficient carbonate of ammonia or 
of potassa to make the color. Filter as direct- 
ed in N"o. 2648. Or : To an infusion of coch- 
ineal, add sufficient sulphate of indigo, nearly 
neutralized with chalk. Filter as above. 



2655. Red. Dissolve carmine in aqua 
ammonia and dilute with water to the desired 
shade ; filter as in No. 2648. Or : Dissolve 
madder lake in a solution of sesquicarbonate 
of ammonia, and dilute with water ; filter as 
above. 

2656. Violet. Dissolve nitrate of cobalt 
in a solution of sesquicarbonate of ammonia ; 
add sufficient ammonio-sulphate of copper to 
produce the color. Filter as in No. 2648. 

2657. Yellow. Dissolve 5 pound sesqui- 
oxide of iron (rust of iron), in 1 quart muriatic 
(hydrochloric) acid; dilute with water, and 
filter. {See No. 2648.) Or: Dissolve chro- 
mate or bichromate of potash in distilled wa- 
ter ; or equal parts of either the above and of 
nitre (saltpetre) dissolved in water, and fil- 
tered as above. 

2658. Crimson. To 1 oun^ alkanet root 
add 1 pint oil of tui^pentine. Filter as direct- 
ed in iSTo. 2648. This is used chiefly for 
lamps. 

2659. Green. Dissolve 2 ounces blue 
vitriol (sulphate of copper) in 1 pint water: 
add sufficient bichromate of potassa to turn 
the liquid green. Or : A solution of 2 ounces 
blue vitriol (sulphate of copper), and 4 ounces 
chloride of sodium, in 1 pint of water. Or : 
A solution of distilled verdigris, in acetic acid, 
and diluted with water. Or : Dissolve blue 
vitriol in water as above, and add nitric acid 
till it tm-ns green. All these must be filtered 
as directed in No. 2648. 

2660. Lilac. Dissolve crude oxide of 
cobalt in nitric or muriatic (hydrochloric) 
acid ; add sesquicarbonate of ammonia, in ex- 
cess ; afterwards sufficient ammonio-sulphate 
of copper to produce the color required. 
Filter. {See No. 2648.) 

2661. Olive. Dissolve equal parts by 
weight of sulphate of iron, and oil of vitriol, 
in water ; add sufficient nitrate of copper to 
produce the color. Filter as in No. 2648. 

2662. Orange. A solution of bichro- 
mate of potassa in water, either with or with- 
out the addition of some hydrochloric or 
sulphuric acid. Or : Dissolve gamboge or 
annotto in liquor of potassa; dilute with 
water and add a little spirit. Filter these as 
directed in No. 2648. 

2663. Sea Green. To 1 gallon water 
add acetate of copper, 4 drachms ; and acetic 
acid, 4 ounces. 

2664. Pea Green. To 1 gallon water 
add nickel, 2 drachms ; acetic acid, 1 ounce ; 
and bichromate of potash, 2 drachm. Or : To 
1 gallon diluted alcohol, add sulphate of cop- 
per and common salt, of each 2 ounces. 

2665. Light Blue. To 1 gallon of wa- 
ter add sulphate of copper, 16 ounces. 

2666. Light Green. Sulphate of cop- 
per (re-crystallized), muriatic acid (free from 
iron), water, alcohol, of each a sufficient 
quantity. 

2667. Violet to Piirple. To the green 
acid solution of sulphate of chromium add 
strong solution of ammonia, and filter as 
directed in No. 2648. 

2668. Yellow. Bichromate of potassa, 
muriatic acid, water, of each a sufficient 
quantity. 

2669. Bright Red. Cochineal, ground, 
1 ounce. Boil with 1 pint of water, replacing 
that which evaporates. Towards the close- 



24.8 



PIGMEXTS. 



add cream tartar, ^ ounce ; alum, 1 ounce ; 
and when cold, oil of yitriol, 1 ounce, mixed 
■with i pint of water. 

2670. Purple to Pink. Fuchsine dilu- 
ted with spirit, as desired. 

2671. Magenta, Solferino, Water of 
the Nile, and other bright colors maybe ob- 
tained by mixing the various aniline or tar 
colors with water as directed in Xo. 2497. 

2672. To Prevent Show Colors 
Freezing. It will be sufficient to bring the 
solution to a strength of about 15 to 20 per 
cent, of alcohol. ^S'atm'ally the liquids must 
be very dilute as regards the solids, so as to 
suffer no precipitation of any saline matter by 
cold or spmts. Acetate olf copper, with or 
without ammonia, a dilute solution of iodine 
in iodide of potassium, nitrate of cobalt, etc., 
are not acted on by weak alcohol. TTe be- 
lieve that glycerine may be mixed with water 
for this purpose, but Vhether it possesses 
any superiority over alcohol we have not been 
able to ascertain. The bottles in all cases 
must have sufficient space left over the fluids 
to aUow for expansion. 



Pigments. These are substances 
employed as coloring matter in mixing 
paints, &c. The following receipts furnish 
the method of preparing the pigments and 
other coloring matters in general use^ and 
their special appliances. 

2674. Tumbull's Prussian Blue. 
Ferricyanide (red prussiate) of potassium, 10 
ounces; solution protosulphate of u-on, 1 
pint; water, 3 pints. Dissolve the ferricyanide 
of potassium in part of water, and add the so- 
lution, gradually, to the solution of protosul- 
phate of iron previously diluted with the re- 
mainder of the water, stirring the mixture 
during the addition. Then filter the liquid, 
and wash the precipitate on the filter with 
boiling water until the washings pass nearly 
tasteless. Lastly, dry it, and rub it into fine 
powder. It may also be made by adding 
protosulphate of iron to a mixture af yellow 
prussiate of potash, chloride of soda, and hy- 
drochloric acid. This, mixed with water, 
makes an excellent bluing. 

2675. Prussian Blue. Percyanide, 
ferrocyanide, or ferroprussiate of iron. Com- 
mercial Prussian blue is made by addiag to a 
solution of prussiate of potash (or of prussiate 
cake), a solution of 2 parts alum and 1 part 
sulphate of iron, washing the precipitate re- 
peatedly with water to which a little muriatic 
acid has been added, and exposing it to the j 
air till it assumes a deep blue color. A purer ! 
kind is made by addiag a solution of persul- ! 
phate or perchloride of iron to a solution of I 
pure ferroprussiate of potash. (See Xo. 
2674.) j 

2676. Action of Prussic Acid on Iron 
Solutions. The G-ermans call prussic acid : 
blausaure, because it produces a blue precipit- 
ate in certain iron solutions; but the following 
experiment undoubtedly proves that the prus- 1 
sic acid does not produce the color of that' 
precipitate, since it can be made just as well ' 
without it. Prepare a saturated solution of i 
green vitriol in water. Take -} parts of the I 



above solution and treat it with nitric and 
sulphuric acids, until it is changed into the 
sulphate of peroxide of iron. Mix this with 
the remaining ^ of the first solution, then add 
very gradually (to avoid its becoming heated) 
concentrated sulphuric acid, until a precipitate 
is foiTned. The result will be a beautiful blue 
precipitate, equal to Prussian blue. If water 
is added, the precipitate is dissolved and the 
color destroyed ; but if the precipitate is 
separated from the acid and rubbed with, 
phosphate of soda, we obtain a beautiful 
blue phosphate of iron, which, will resist the 
action of water. la all these cases the acids, 
which possess no color, are by no means the 
cause of the blue color, but favor only the 
production of it, by depriving the mixed 
hydrates of protoxide and peroxide of iron 
of certain equivalents of water, and likewise 
by preventing the same irom entering into a 
higher state of oxidation in the atmosphere. 

"2677. To Make Carmine by the 
Langlois Process. Boiling river water, 4 
gallons; cochineal in powder, 1 pound; boil 
for 10 miautes, then add f ounce carbonate 
soda, dissolved in 1 pound water ; boil again 
for 5 an horn' ; cool, add f ounce alum in fine 
powder, agitate rapidly until it be dissolved, 
then let it stand for 20 miriutes, after which 
carefully decant into another vessel. The 
white of 2 eggs, dissolved in 1 pint water, is 
now to be added, and the whole well agitated ; 
apply heat until the liquor be clarified, then 
draw it off, and allow it to repose for ^ an 
hour, or longer, when the clear portion must 
be decanted, and the carmine that has been 
deposited at the bottom collected, and placed 
upon a filter to drain. "WTien it has acquired 
the consistence of a paste, remove it from the 
filter with an ivory or silver knife, and finish 
the drying upon shallow plates, covered with 
silver paper. 

2678. To Make Carmine by Cenette's 
Process. The following is the method em- 
ployed by Madame Cenette : Finest cochineal, 
reduced to powder, 2 pounds ; pure river wa- 
ter, boiling hot, 15 gallons ; boil for 2 hours, 
then add refined saltpetre, bruised, 3 ounces; 
boil for 3 miautes longer, and add 4 ounces 
of salts of sorrel (binoxalate of potassa). 
Boil for 10 minutes longer, then remove the 
heat, and aUow the liquor to settle for 4 hours, 
when it must be decanted with a syphon into 
shallow plates, and set aside for 3 weeks. At 
the end of this time, the film of mould formed 
on the surface must be dexterously and care- 
fully removed, without breaking it or disturb- 
ing the liquid portion. The latter must be 
now removed with a syphon, and the remain- 
ing moisture drained off, or sucked up with 
a pipette. The carmiae which is left behind 
must be dried in the shade, and will be found 
to possess extraordinary lustre and beauty. 

2679. To Revive or Brighten Car- 
mine, ^e may brighten ordinary carmine 
and obtain a very fine and clear pigment, by 
dissolving it in water of ammonia. For this 
purpose leave ammonia upon carmine in the 
heat of the sun till its color is extracted and 
the liquor has got a fine red tinge. It must 
then be drawn off and precipitated by acetic 
acid and alcohol, next washed with alcohol, 
and dried. Liquid carmine is a solution of 
carmine in ammonia. 



PIGMENTS. 



24:9 



2680. Adulteration of Cochineal. ! 

Genuine cochineal has a specific gravity of 
1.25; it is commonly increased in Tvcight hy ' 
slightly moistening it with gum water, and 
then rouncing it in a bag, first with sulphate 
of baryta, and then with finely powdered 
bone-black. In this way its specific gravity 
is raised to 1.35, by introducing about 12 per 
cent, of useless matter. 

2681. Kirclioflrs Method of Making 
Vermilion. This is said to 3-ield vermilion 
equal to the Chinese. Kub in a porcelain 
dish 100 parts mercury with 23 parts flowers 
of sulphnr, moistening the mixture with a 
solotion of caustic potash. Xext treat it with 
53 parts hydrate of potash, mixed with an 
equal weight of water; warm it up and tritur- 
ate it again. The water must be replaced as 
it evaporates, and the operation continued for 
2 hours. The whole is now to be evaporated 
to a thin paste, during constant trituration, 
and the heat removed the moment the color 
is of a good tint. Even a few seconds too 
much or too little will injure the result. 
"WTien cold, the mass is washed with a solution 
of potash, and afterwards with pure water, 
and finally dried. 

2682. To Preserve Vermilion. It is a 
fact well known to artists that the splendidly 
bright color of vermilion (cinnabar, sulphide 
of mercury) has a tendency, especially if it 
has been mixed with white lead, to become 
blackish brown and very dark-colored in a 
comparatively short time. This tendency is 
altogether obviated if, previous to being 
mixed with oil, it is thoroughly and intimately 
mingled with flowers of sulphur, in the pro- 
portion of 1 part sulphur to 8 parts vermi.lion. 

2683. Carthamine or Safflower Lake. 
"Wash safflower till the water comes off color- 
less ; mix it with water holding 15 per cent. 
of carbonate of soda in solution, so as to form 
a thick paste; leave it for several hours, then 
press out the red liquid, and nearly neutralize 
it with acetic acid. oSText put cotton into it, 
and add successive small portions of acetic 
acid, so as to prevent the liquid becoming 
alkaline. In 24 hours take out the cotton, 
wash it, and digest it for half an hour in wa- 
ter holding 5 per cent, of crystallized carbon- 
ate of soda in solution. Immediately on re- 
moving the cotton, supersaturate the liquid 
^th citric acid, and collect the precipitate, 
which must be repeatedly washed in cold wa- 
ter. For pink saucers the liquid is allowed to 
deposit in the saucers. Mixed with the 
scrapings of French chalk it constitutes rouge. 

2684. Lakes are also obtained from 
Brazil-wood and madder, by adding alum to a 
concentrated decoction of the fonner, or to a 
cold infusion of the latter (made bj^ triturating ' 
the madder, inclosed in a bag, with the water), j 
and afterwards sufficient subcarbonate of pot- 
ash or soda to throw down the alumina in com- 1 
bination with the coloring matter. The pre- 
cipitate is to be washed and dried. A little ! 
solution of tin added with the alum improves [ 
the color. Lakes may be obtained from most ' 
vegetable coloring matters by means of alum | 
and an alkaline carbonate. Yellow lake is 
made from French or Persian berries, by boil- 
ing them in water with a little soda or potash, 
and adding alum to the strained liquor as long 
as a precipitate is thrown down. Or by 



boiling weld, or quercitron baik, in water, 
and adding alum and chalk in a pasty state. 
2685. " Rose Pink. Boil 6 pounds 
Brazil-wood and 2 pounds peach-wood in 
water, with J pound alum, and pour the 
strained decoction on 20 pounds sifted whi- 
tening. 

2686. Sap Green. The expressed juice 
of buckthorn berries (and sometimes of other 
species of rhamnus, and also of privet berries) 
is allowed to settle, and the clear liquid evap- 
orated to dryness. A little gum-arabic is 
sometimes added to the juice. 

2687. Azure Blue, or Smalts. The com- 
mon qualities are made by fusing zaflfre (roasted 
cobalt ore calcined with siliceous sand) with 
potash. A finer quality is obtained by pre- 
cipitatiug a solution of sulphate of cobalt, 
by a solution of sUicate of potash. Another 
cobalt blue is obtained by adding a solution 
of phosphate of soda to a solution of nitrate of 
cobalt, and mixing the precipitate, washed, 
but not dried, with 8 times its weight of fresh 
hydrated alumina. AVlien dry, heat it to a 
cherry red. It is permanent, but has little 
body. If ground too fine it loses its beautiful 
tintl! It can be employed in fresco and sili- 
cious painting. It is not affected by sulphur- 
etted hydrogen. 

2688. Blue Verditer. It is generally 
stated to be made by adding chalk to a solu- 
tion of nitrate of copper produced in the pro- 
cess of refining silver ; but Mr. Phillips did 
not succeed in making it by this means, and 
found no lime in the best samples. This 
pigment is acted upon by suphun-etted hydro- 
gen; it should not be used in oU, and though 
more stable in water, it is hardly a pigment 
for high art work. Certain blues are^'made 
from the natural blue basic carbonate of cop- 
per, and from malachite, but they have no 
interest for the artist. 

2689. New Blue. Mix equal parts of 
common arseniate of copper {see Mineral 
Green, Xo. 2711), and neutral arseniate of 
potash, fuse by heat in a large crucible, then 
add to the fused salt \ its weight of nitre. 
Effervescence takes place, and the salt be- 
comes blue. Cool, pulverize, and wash. 

2690. Cobalt Blue. Thenard's blue is 
made by precipitating a soluble cobalt salt 
with a solution of alum, and heating the pre- 
cipitate. ^Wlien well made, it is a good per- 
manent color, useful in oil and water. It can 
also be employed in fresco and silicious paint- 
ing. It is, however, somewjiat affected by 
light, losing its brilliancy slightly. 

2691. Eisner's Preparation of Zinc 
Green. Sprinkle with water a mixture of 5 
parts oxide of zinc and 1 part of sulphate of 
cobalt, dry the pulp thus obtained, then heat 
to redness. A deep green powder is obtained. 
If 10 parts oxide of zinc, and 1 part sulphate 
of cobalt be employed, the product is gi-ass 
green in color ; the same color, only lighter, 
is obtained when the latter proportion of zinc 
oxide is again doubled. These colors, es- 
pecially the latter, may replace to advantage 
Schweinfurt green; they apply well on a 
coating of lime, 

2692. Bistre. Thia is a brown color 
which is used in water-color painting. It is^ 
prepared from the root of beech-wood by 
washing away the soluble parts with water. 



250 



PIGMENTS. 



The insoluble residue is mixed with gum wa- 
ter and formed into cakes. 

2693. "White Lead. This pigment, 
which enters largely into the composition of 
various colored paints, is carbonate of lead, 
obtained by suspending rolls of thin sheet lead 
over malt vinegar or pyroligneous acid in close 
vessels, the evaporation of the acid being in- 
duced and sustained by the heat of a steam- 
bath or other apphances. 

2694. Test for White Lead. Commer- 
cial carbonate of lead is never quite pure, beiag 
commonly adulterated with sulphate of baryta, 
(heavy spar), and sometimes with chalk. The 
former may be detected by its insolubility in 
dilute nitric acid, and the latter by the nitric 
solution yielding a white precipitate with oxalic 
or sulphuric acid, or oxalate of ammonia, after 
having been treated with sulphuretted hy- 
drogen, or a hydrosulphuret, to throw down 
the lead. (Cooley.) 

2695. Simple Test for White Lead. 
Take a piece of firm, close-grained charcoal, 
and, near one end of it, scoop out a cavity 
about i inch in diameter and ^ inch in depth. 
Place in the cavity a sample of the lead to be 
tested, about the size of a small pea, and apply 
to it continuously the blue or hottest part of 
the flame of a blow-pipe; if the sample be 
strictly pure, it will in a very short time, say 
in 2 minutes, be reduced to metalhc lead, leav- 
ing no residue ; but if adulterated to the ex- 
tent of 10 per cent, only with oxide of zinc, 
sulphate of baryta, whiting or any other car- 
bonate of lime (which substances are now the 
only adulterations used), or if it be composed 
enthely of these materials, as is sometimes the 
case with cheap lead, it cannot be reduced, but 
will remain on the charcoal an infusible mass. 
Itis well, after blowing upon the sample, say for 
5 a minute, by which time the oil will be burned 
off", to loosen the sample from the charcoal 
With a knife blade or spatula, in order that 
the flame may pass under as well as over and 
against it. "With proper care the lead will 
run into one button, instead of scattering over 
the charcoal, and this is the reason why 
the cavity above mentioned is necessary. A 
common stearine candle or a lard oil lamp 
furnishes the best flame for use of the blow- 
pipe ; the flame of a coal oil lamp sho^ild not 
be used. 

2696. Zinc White (oxide of zinc) is a 
permanent pigment; is not afiected by sul- 
phuretted hydrogen ; does not form soap with 
oils and fats, therefore it retains its opacity ; 
does not decompose other pigments, and if 
used with proper vehicles retains its white- 
ness. It is the best and safest white that can 
be used. It is most durable in silicious paint- 
ing, as it forms chemical compounds with pot- 
ash and silica. 

2697. Sxilphate of Baryta, called bary- 
tes and constant white, is very permanent, of 
a bluish tint ; has no body in oil, but is a good 
white in fresco, silicious, and water-color 
painting. Chemically it has no action on 
other colors, and i« not itself aff"ected by any 
ordinary destructive agent. It is a natural 
product, called heavy spar. 

2698. Pfundheller's Method of Ob- 
taining Barytes WTiite. For each 100 
pounds of wool, 3 pounds alum, 1 pound cream 
of tartar, and 2 pounds sulphwric acid are to 



be combined with ^ ounce of soluble iodine 
violet, and the wool immersed in the solution 
at a temperature of 122° Fahr., and stin-ed 
round for an hour at this temperature. An- 
other bath is to be made in the meantime, in 
a fresh kettle, with 3 pounds chloride of ba- 
rium, and the whole immersed in this, and 
kept at a temperature of 122° Fahr., for two 
hours. By this process the sulphate of bary- 
tes, the most beautiful of whites, will be 
thrown down in the fibre of the wool, which 
has been saturated in the first bath with the 
sulphuric acid, and it wiU gain about eighteen 
per cent, in weight. 

2699. Cremnitz White, a beautiful 
white, with less body than ordinary white 
lead ; it is, doubtless, made by precipitation ; 
it, like ordinary white lead, decomposes sul- 
phides, and is decomposed by sulphuretted 
hydi-ogen. 

2700. Cadmium Yellow, Red, etc. 
These are sulphides of cadmium, and, when 
weU prepared, are very stable; they can be 
used in fresco and sflicious painting. It is 
mentioned elsewhere that cadmium sulphide 
decomposes emerald green. (See No. 2712.) 
It is not safe to use it with lead pigments, un- 
less it has been most carefully prepared ; and 
here, inasmuch as decomposition may take 
place, and lead sulphide, which is black, be 
formed, it is better to avoid the mixture ; no 
such mixture can occur in fresco or silicious 
painting, and it would be well if there were 
no chance of its occurring in any other style 
of painting, by the banishment of white lead 
from the list of artists' pigments, i^o other 
salts of cadmium are important as pigments. 

2701. Green Oxide of Chromium. 
This oxide is perfectly stable, and, as so many 
tints of it can be obtained, including the beau- 
tiful vividian, it can be used in all vehicles, and 
is perfectly permanent in fresco and silicious 
painting. Other chromium compounds are 
used in painting ; the chromates of lead have 
aheady been treated of. Chromate of barytes 
is a good, safe pigment ; it is used under the 
name of lemon yeUow. It is permanent in 
fresco and silicious painting. The chromates 
generally are unstable colors, and, as there are 
so many other good yeUows, they should not 
be used as pigments. 

2702. The Ochres are earths colored by 
oxide of iron. The natural color of these 
earths is yeUow, but by burning they get 
darker, and some become red. Indian red, 
red ochre, light red, etc., are aU earths with 
more or less of the oxide of iron in them. AU 
the ochres are permanent and stable if they 
have been weU prepared. They may be used 
safely in every style of painting. 

2703. Colcothar is also an oxide of iron ; 
it is very permanent, and generally useful as a 
pigment. It can be obtained of different 
tints. It is, however, especially useful in 
fresco and silicious painting. 

2704. Venetian Red, as now prepared, 
is an iron red ; but, whether from adulteration 
or not, it contains lime; and, as it is made 
from the sulphate of iron, sulphate of lime 
gets formed, and this prevents its employment 
in silicious painting, for with silicate of potash 
a silicate of lime is immediately formed, and 
it becomes hard and lumpy. It may be used 
in oil, water, and fresco. 



2705. Chrome Yellow. To a solution 
of bichromate of potash add a solution of 
nitrate of lead as long as a precipitate 
forms. "Wash the precipitate, and dry it with 
a gentle heat. An inferior kind is said to be 
made by 4 pounds pure white lead, 1 pound 
bichromate of potash, and 20 pounds water, 
and boiling till the water becomes colorless. 
Or 75 parts of precipitated sulphate of lead 
may be acted on by 25 parts of a hot solution 
of neutral chromate of potash. A mixed pro- 
duct of chromate and sulphate of lead is thus 
obtained, which is said to cover as well as 
the pure chrome, and is much cheaper. (Riot. ) 

2706. Chrome Red. Melt saltpetre 
in a crucible heated to dull redness, and 
add chrome yellow, by small portions, till no 
more red fumes arise. Allow the mixture to 
settle, then pour off the melted salt from the 
heavy sediment, and wash the latter with 
water, which should be quickly poured off, 
and dry the pigment. The liquefied salt 
poured off contains chromate of potash, and 
is reserved for making chrome yellow. 

2707. Orange Chrome is chrome yel- 
low acted on by an alkali, which deprives it 
of part of the chromic acid. All the chromes 
are chromates of lead, and are therefore liable 
to be blackened by sulphuretted hydrogen. 
TVhen used with oil, they may, with care, re- 
tain their color for a long time, the oxidized 
oil protecting them from the action of sul- 
phuretted hydrogen. They cannot be used 
in silicious, fresco, or any other method of 
water painting. They are destroyed by alka- 
lies ; they should never be used with Prussian 
blue or kindred colors. On the whole, it 
would be as well for artists to reject them, as 
better and safer pigments can be employed 
for the same purpose as they are. 

2708. Aureolin Yellow. An excellent 
pigment in every respect. It is a double 
nitrate of potassium and cobalt. It is not 
acted upon by Kme or by potash ; it is, there- 
fore, a good pigment for fresco and sHi- 
cious painting. It may be used with safety 
in oil and in water. Sulphuretted hydrogen 
does not affect it, and it is permanent when 
submitted to the severest tests. It is not 
affected by admixtm-e with other colors. 

2709. Naples Yellow. Mix 12 parts 
metallic antimony, 8 parts red lead, and 4 
oxide of zinc, and calcine in a reverberatory 
furnace. The mixed oxides are rubbed to- 
gether, fused, and the fused mass elutriated 
into a fine powder. (Dr. TJre.) M. Guimel 
recommends 1 part well-washed antimoniate 
of potash to be ground into a paste with 2 
parts red lead, and the powder exposed to a 
red heat for 4 or 5 hours, keeping the heat 
moderate. This is a good pigment, and may 
safely be used with oil. 

2710. Brunswick Green. Pour a 
saturated solution of muriate of ammonia 
over copper filings in a close vessel placed 
in a warm situation ; add more of the solution 
from time to time till 3 parts of the muriate \ 
have been used to 2 of copper. After stand- 
ing for a few weeks the pigment is separated 
from the, unoxidized copper by washing 
through a sieve. It is then to be well washed, 
and dried slowly in the shade. It is often 
reduced with white lead ; some samples con- 
tain arsenic. 



piGMExrs. 251 

2711. Mineral Green, Scheele's Green, 
or Arsenite of Copper. Dissolve 11 ounces 
white arsenic and 2 pounds carbonate of pot- 
ash, by heat, in a gallon of water. Dissolve 
also 2 pounds sulphate of copper in 3 gallons 
water. Filter each solution separately, and 
add the former gradually to the latter as long 
as it occasions a precipitate. "Wash the pre- 
cipitate, drain it, and dry it. 

2712. Emerald Green. Mix 10 parts 
pure verdigris with sufficient boiling water to 
form a soft pulp, and strain this thi'ough a 
sieve. Dissolve 9 or 10 parts white arsenic in 
100 parts boning water, and, whilst boiling, 
let the verdigris pulp be gradually added, con- 
stantly stirring the mixture till the precipitate 
becomes a heavy granular powder. It is, on 
the whole, a permanent color. It should not 
be used with cadmium yellow, as that is a 
sulphide, and with it forms sulphide of copper, 
which is brown. It is a good oil pigment 
when properly used ; it has but little body. 
It answers well in water-color painting ; it 
cannot, however, be used in fresco or silicious 
painting. 

2713. Green without Arsenic. Dis- 
solve 48 pounds sulphate of copper and 2 
pounds bichromate of potash in water, and 
add to the clear solution 2 pounds pearlash 
and 1 pound chalk. 

2714. Rinmann's Green Pigment. 
Dissolve together in sufficient water 1 part 
sulphate of cobalt and 3 sulphate of zinc ; 
precipitate with carbonate of soda, wash the 
precipitate, and calcine it. It is a permanent 
color. 

2715. Chrome Green. A mixture of 
chrome yellow and Prussian blue. (See No. 
2707.) 

2716. Black for Miniature Painters. 
Take camphor, and set it on fire, and collect 
the soot by means of a saucer or paper funnel 
inverted over it. This black, mixed with 
gum-arabic, is far superior to most India-ink. 

2717. To Make Lampblack. This 
can be prepared on a small scale in the fol- 
lowing manner: Suspend over a lamp a 
conical funnel of tin plate, having above it a 
pipe to convey from the apartment the smoke 
which escapes from the lamp. Large mush- 
room-hke concretions of a very black carbon- 
aceous matter, and exceedingly light, will be 
formed at the summit of the cone, and must 
be collected from time to time. This black 
may be rendered less oily and drier by calcin- 
ation in close vessels. The funnel should be 
united to the pipe, which conveys off the 
smoke, by means of wire, because solder 
would be melted by the flame of the lamp. 

2718. Indian Red, or Crocus. This is 
made from jeweler's rouge, by subjecting the 
scarlet calcined sesquioxide of iron to a fur- 
ther calcination at a very intense heat. It is 
then known as purple brown. 

2719. Ivory-Black. Burn shavings 
and waste pieces of ivory in a covered crucible, 
till no more smoke issues. Cover it closely 
while cooling. It should be afterwards 
washed ^vith diluted muriatic acid, then with 
water till no longer acid, dried, and again 
heated in a covered crucible. It is of a deeper 
color than bone-black, and is used as a pig- 
ment, a tooth powder, and to decolorize 
syrups and other liqjiids. 



252 



DBTING OILS AND DBYEBS. 



2720. To Make Purple of Cassius. 

This is a yitrifiable pigment, which stains 
glass and porcelain a beautiful red or purple 
hue. Its preparation is one of great nicety, 
and is liable to fail even in the most experi- 
enced hands. Mix together separate solutions 
of 1 part crystallized protochloride of tin, and 
2 parts crystallized perchloride of tin; this 
mixture, added to a solution of 1 part crystal- 
lized chloride of gold, makes a beautiful pur- 
ple colored precipitate, which should imme- 
diately be washed, filtered, and dried. An 
excess of the protochloride produces a blue, 
yellow, or greenish tinge ; the perchloride in 
excess gives a red or violet cast. 

2721. French. Purple of Cassius. 
This is similar in preparation to the last re- 
ceipt, but difi'ers in one ingredient employed, 
substituting perchloride of iron for the per- 
chloride of tin. This purple keeps in the air 
unaltered for a long time. 

2722. Purple of Cassius. To a moder- 
ately dilute solution of sesquichloride of iron, 
add a solution of protochloride of tin, until the 
mixture becomes green, and dilute the mix- 
ture with an equal bulk of water, if ext pre- 
pare a solution of terchloride of gold, as neu- 
tral as possible, in the proportion of 1 part 
gold in 360 parts water; then add the tin so- 
lution, with constant stirring, as long as any 
precipitate is produced. "Wash the precipitate 
as quickly as possible by decantation, and dry 
at a gentle heat. 

2723. Buisson's Preparation of Pur- 
ple of Cassius. Two solutions of tin are re- 
quired. The first consists of a neutral solu- 
tion of 1 part tin in nitric acid. The second is 
made by dissolving 2 parts tin in a mixture 
of 1 part hydrochloric acid with 3 parts nitric 
acid; a little heat may be cautiously apphed 
towards the end of this process, to prevent 
any protoxide of tin from remaining in the 
solution. 

!N'ext dissolve 7 parts gold in an aqua-regia 
composed of 6 parts hydrochloric acid and 1 
part nitric acid ; and mix the solution at once 
with 3500 parts water ; then add the whole of 
the second tin solution, subsequently adding by 
degrees the first tin solution, ceasing the mo- 
ment the right color is obtained. Too little 
will produce a violet color ; too much, a brown. 
Wash the precipitate very quickly, and dry. 
"When dry it appears brown. 

2724. Improved VeMcles for Col- 
ors. One measure of satm-ated solution of 
borax, with 4 of linseed oil. The pigment 
may 1)6 ground with the oil or the mixtm-e. 
Or, a solution of shellac with borax, as in 
making Coathupe's ink. {See No. 2484.) 

2725. Improved Vehicles for Water 
Colors. TTater colors, mixed with gelatine, 
and afterwards fixed by washing with a solu- 
tion of alum, or; curd of milk, washed and 
pressed, then dried on fine net, and when re- 
quired for use, mixed with water and the col- 
oring matter. 



Drying Oils and Dryers. 
All the fixed oils have an attraction 
more or less powerful for oxygen; and, by 
exposure to the air, they either become hard 
and resinous or sour and rancid. Those 
which exhibit the first property in a marked 



degree, as the oils of linseed, poppy, rape, an5 
walnut, are called drying oils, and are used as 
vehicles for colors in painting. The dry- 
ing property of oils is greatly increased by 
boiling them, either alone or with litharge, 
sugar of lead, etc., when the product forms 
the boiled oil or drying oil of commerce. The 
litharge and sulphate of lead employed for 
this pui-pose, maybe again used, after washing 
them in hot water, to remove adhering muci- 
lage. "When paints are mixed with raw oil, 
as is frequently the case in house painting, the 
drying quality is obtained by the addition of 
compositions called dryers. These are gener- 
ally made from Japan varnish, sugar of lead, 
litharge, etc., and are necessary in such paints 
as are preferablv prepared without boiled oil. 

2727. Dark Colored Boiled Oil. Sim- 
mer with frequent stirring, 1 gallon of linseed 
oil, with f pound powdered litharge, until a 
skm begins to form ; then remove the scum, 
and when it has become cold and has settled, 
decant the clear portions. This is for house 
painters' use. 

2728. Pale Boiled Oil. Boil 1 quart 
linseed oil, and 2 ounces powdered white vit- 
riol (sulphate of ziuc), with 1 quart water, 
until the water has all evaporated; settle and 
decant as in the last receipt. 

2729. Very Pale Drying Oil. Mix 2 
ounces finely powdered litharge, or dry sul- 
phate of lead, with 1 pint pale linseed or nut 
oil; agitate frequently for 10 days, then set 
the bottle in the sun or in a warm place to set- 
tle. "When clear, decant it. 

2730. Colorless Drying Oil for Paint. 
Take 5 gallons water, heat it to the boiling 
point in a vessel holding 15 gallons ; when 
about to boil add 5 gallons Ituseed oil and 1 
pound red lead. Keep it constantly boiling 
and stirred up for 2 hours over a slow fire. 
If not constantly stirred the lead will sink to 
the bottom and cause the oil to spatter. It 
is then taken from the fire and left to settle, 
when it will be found that the oil is clear and 
colorless. 

2731. Mulder's Colorless Drying Oil. 
Boil linseed oil for two hours with 3 per cent, 
of red lead ; filter it, and expose it to the sun- 
shine in large shallow vessels, with a glass 
covering, frequently removing the cover to re- 
new the air. 

2732. To Make Boiled Oil Clear and 
Bright. There is often a difficulty in obtain- 
ing the oils drigh t after boiling or heating them 
with the lead solutions. The best way on a 
small scale is either to filter the boiled oil 
through coarse woolen filtering paper, or to 
expose it in a bottle for some time to the sun 
or in a warm place. In larger quantities, the 
oil may be filtered through Canton flannel 
bags. 

2733. Artists' Drying Oil. Mix nut 
or pale linseed oil with about an equal measure 
of snow or powdered ice, and keep it for 2 
months at a freezing temperature. 

2734. Boiled Oil Specially Adapted 
for Zinc Paint. Mix 1 part binoxide of 
manganese, in coarse powder, but not dusty, 
with 10 parts nut or linseed oil; keep it gently 
heated and frequently stirred for about 30 
hours, or until the oil begins to turn reddish. 
The oil thus prepared will" also answer for any 
paiut. 



HOUSE PAINTING. 



2735. New Drying Oil without Boil- 
ing. Mix with old liuseed oil (the older the 
better), 2 per cent, of its weight of niauganese 
borate (this salt is readih' prepared b}^ precip- 
itatinga solution of sulphate of manganese with 
a solution of borax, wash the precipitate, and 
dry it either at the ordinary temperature of 
the air or at 100°), and heat this mixture on a 
water-bath ; or, if you have to work with large 
quantities, with a steam-bath to 100*^, or at 
most llO'^; you thus obtain a very excellent, 
light-colored, rapidly drying oil; by keeping 
the mixture stirred, that is to say, by always 
exposing fresh portions to air, the drying prop- 
erty of the oil is greatly promoted. The ra- 
pidity of the drying of the oil after it has been 
mixed with paint, on surfaces besmeared there- 
with, does not simply depend upon the drying 
property of the oil, but, in a very great mea- 
sure, upon the state of the atmosphere — viz., 
whether dry or moist, hot or cold — the direct 
action of sunlight, and the state of the surfaces 
on which the paint is brought. Really gen- 
uine boiled linseed oil, if well prepared, leaves 
nothing to be desired as regards rapidity of 
drying" but it is retarded bj" various substan- 
ces which are added in practice, among which, 
especiallv, oil of turpentine is injurious. 

2736. Dryers for Dark-Colored 
Paints. This is prepared by grinding the best 
litharge to a paste with drying oil. A small 
portion is beaten up with the paint, when 
mixing with oil and turpentine for use. 

2737. Dryers for Light-Colored 
Paints. Sulphate of zinc, or sugar of lead, 
mixed with drying oil, and used in the same 
way as the litharge in the last receij)t. 

2738. Dryers for White Paint. Mix 
1 pound each sulphate of zinc and sugar of 
lead, with 2 pounds pm*e white (carbonate of) 
lead, and apply as in the last receipts. 

2739. Patent Dryer. Mix the following 
ingredients to a paste with linseed oil : 15 
pounds dry sulphate of zinc, 4 pounds sugar of 
lead, and 7 pounds litharge. The mixture 
should be passed 3 or 4 times through a paint 
mill, ^hen a tin of this is in use, the surface 
should be always smoothed down level, and 
kept covered wiith a thin layer of linseed oil. 

2740. Dryer for Zinc White. Mix to- 
gether thoroughly 10 parts each sulphate of 
manganese, acetate of manganese, and sulphate 
of zinc, with 14f parts zinc white. An addi- 
tion of 2 or 3 per cent, of this dryer to zinc 
white oil paint will make it dry hard. 

2741. To Make Japan Dryer. Into 1 
gallon linseed oil, put f pound gum shellac; 
\ pound each litharge, burned umber, and red 
lead; and 6 ounces sugar of lead. Boil together 
for 4 hours, or until all the ingredients are dis- 
solved. Remove from the fire and add 1 gal- 
lon spirits of turpentine. 

2742. Cheap Japan Dryer. Mix to- 
gether 4 gallons pure linseed oil; 4 pounds 
each litharge and red lead; and 2 pounds pow- 
dered raw umber. Boil slowly for 2 hours, 
add by degrees 7^ pounds shellac, and boil i 
hour longer; when well mixed, add by degrees 
1 pound powdered sulphate of zinc, and when 
nearly cold mix in thoroughly 7 gallons spirits 
of turpentine. 

2743. To Make Paint Dry auickly. 
To make paint dry quickly use a large propor- 
tion of Japan varnish in mixing. 



2744. Massicot. Yellow protoxide of 
lead. The dross that forms on melted lead 
exposed to a current of air, roasted until it 
acquires a uniform yellow color. Used as a 
pigment, and in glazing. (Cooley). 



House Painting. The follow- 
ing directitms are obtained from a 
thoroughly practical source, and will be found 
useful both to the amateur and the workman. 

2746. Priming. The same paint is used 
for the first coat in outside and inside work ; 
it should be as thick as wiU work conveniently, 
and requires only litharge for dryers. The 
paint f?hould not be laid on too thickly, and 
well worked in with the brush. 

2747. Priming for Iron Work. This 
must be oil color laid on a surface freed from 
rust. For paper and canvas, a coat of size 
takes the place of priming, as paint rots these 
materials. 

2748. Puttying. This consists in filling 
up all nail-heads and cracks with putty, by a 
putty knife ; and should always be done after 
priming. 

2749. Second Coat for Outside Work. 
Mix the paint with raw oil, as thick as it can 
be used freely. Cover the surface, work it 
across to even it, and finish longways with 
long, light sweeps of the brush. 

2750. Third Coat for Outside Work. 
The paint should be mixed with oil, a little 
thinner than for the second coat; laid on very 
evenly, and not too thickly, and finished as 
smooth as possible. 

2751. Second Coat for Inside Work. 
The paint for this coat should be mixed with 
raw oil and turpentine, about equal parts, and 
be as thick as will work freely ; laid on thinly 
and well crossed and finished to prepare a 
smooth surface, with as few ridges as possible, 
for the next coat. 

2752. Third Coat for Inside Work. 
Mix the paint thinner than for the last coat, 
using but little oil, and more turpentine ; laid 
on thinly and well finished, so as to leave no 
brush marks. 

2753. Fourth Coat or Flatting for 
Inside Work. The paint is mixed with 
turpentine only, and thin enough to spread or 
flow even, before it sets ; lay on evenly and 
quickly, brushing lengthways only, and finish- 
ing up as the work proceeds, as this paint sets 
quickly, and spots touched up afterwards are 
apt to be glossy. 

2754. Drawn Flatting for a Fourth 
Coat. The oil in which the white lead or 
other paint is ground, is drawn out by mixing 
with turpentine, allowing the paint to settle, 
and then pouring off the liquid ; repeating 
the operation with fresh tui-pentine till the oil 
has been completely washed out. This makes 
a better color, without gloss, and easily flow- 
ing. As it sets very quickly it must be ap- 
plied thickly, evenly, and quickly, with closed 
doors and windows, to avoid a draught. 

2755. When to Apply Paint. Paint, 
to last long, should be put on early in winter 
or spring, when it is cold and no dust flying. 
Paint put on in cold weather forms a body or 
coat upon the surface of the wood that be- 



254: 



HOUSE FAINTING. 



comes hard ana resists weather^ or an edged 
tool even, like slate. 

2756. General Directions for House 
Painting. Oil paint dries with a gloss, tur- 
pentine makes a dead surface ; and, in using 
paints containing both oil and turpentine, the 
gloss will be less as the proportion of oil is 
diminished. Paint requires more dryer in cold 
than in hot weather, but is more durable in out- 
side work if applied in cold weather. Suc- 
ces-dve coats of paint should have at least a 
day intervene between them for drying. Dark 
colors should have a glossy finish. Before 
commencing to paint, the surface must be 
perfectly drj^. The paint must be thoroughly 
mixed, both before commencing and during 
the progress of the work; if this is neglected, 
the heavy ingredients are apt to settle, leav- 
ing a larger proportion of oil and turpentine 
on the surface. 

2757. Painter's Size. Stir a small 
quantity of litharge and red lead into some 
boiled oil; let it stand, shaking frequently 
until bleached ; then bottle. Eaw oil makes 
a slower drying size. 

2758. Best Painter's Size. Heat raw 
oil in a pan till it emits a black smoke ; set it 
on fire, and, after burning for a few minutes, 
cover the pan over to put out the blaze; pour 
the oil while warm into a bottle in which 
some pulverized red lead and litharge have 
been introduced. Stand the bottle in a warm 
place for two weeks, shaking often. It will 
then be ready to decant and bottle. 

2759. To Paint Zinc. A difficulty is 
often experienced in causing oil colors to ad- 
here to sheet zinc. Boettger recommends the 
employment of a mordant, so to speak, of the 
following composition : 1 part chloride of 
copper, 1 of nitrate of copper, and 1 of sal-am- 
moniac are to be dissolved in 64 parts of water, 
to which soluti(m is to be added 1 part of 
commercial hydrochloric acid. The sheets of 
zinc are to be brushed over with this liquid, 
which gives them a deep black color ; in the 
course of from 12 to 24 hours they become 
dry, and to their now dirty gray surface a 
coat of any oil color will firmly adhei 3. Some 
sheets of zinc prepared in this way, and after- 
wards painted, have been found to withstand 
all the changes of winter and summer. 

2760. Polish White, This is made by 
grinding dry zinc- white with white varnish, and 
affords a beautiful glossy finish, to be laid on 
after the second coat. A more perfect surface 
may be obtained by covering the second coat 
with several other coats of hard drying paint, 
mixed with turpentine, Japan and litharge ; 
then rubbing down with pumice-stone, fol- 
lowed by a coat of polish white, and finished 
with a flow coat of white varnish containing 
a little zinc-white. Although this requires 
more time and trouble, the result will fully 
compensate for it. It is necessary to remark 
that when the last coat is to be glossy, the 
previous coat must be flat or dead; and a flat 
coat for finishing should be preceded by a 
somewhat glossy coat. 

2761. To Mix Oil Colors. In mixing 
different colored paints to produce any desired 
tint, it is best to have the principal ingredient 
thick, and add to it the other paints thinner. 
In the following table of the combinations of 
colors required to produce a required tint, 



the first named color is the principal ingre- 
dient, and the others follow in the order of 
their importance. Thus, in mixing a lime- 
stone tint, white is the principal ingredient, 
and red the color of which least is needed, 
&C,. The exact proportions of each depending 
on the shade of color required. 

2762. Table of Compound Colors, 
Showing the Simple Colors which 
Produce them. 

Buff "White, Yellow Ochre, Red 

Chestnut Red, Black, Yellow 

Chocolate Raw Umber, Red, Black 

Claret Red, Umber, Black 

Copper Red, Yellow, Black 

Dove White, Yermilion, Blue, Yellow 

Drab White, Yellow Ochre, Red, Black 

Fawn White, Yellow, Red 

Flesh White, Yellow Ochre, Yermilion 

Freestone.. Red, Black, Yellow Ochre, White 
French Gray.. ..White, Prussian Blue, Lake 

G-ray White Lead, Black 

Gold White, Stone Ochre, Red 

Green Bronze.. Chrome Green, Black, Yellow 

Do Pea White, Chrome Green 

Lemon White, Chrome Yellow 

Limestone. -White, Yellow Ochre, Black, Red 

Ohve Yellow, Blue, Black, White 

Orange Yellow, Red 

Peach White, Yermilion 

Pearl White, Black, Blue 

Pink White, Yermilion, Lake 

Purple Yiolet^ with more Red and White 

Rose White, Madder Lake 

Sandstone -.White, Yellow Ochre, Black, Red 

Snuff Yellow, Yandyke Brown 

Yiolet-. . -Red, Blue, White. {See No. 2761.) 

2763. To Prepare Whitewashed 
Walls for Painting. If there should be 
any cracks in the plastering, and the wash be 
sound around the cracks, plaster of Paris is 
the best thing to fill them with, as it hardens 
quickly, does not shrink, and leaves the sur- 
face level with the wall. If the plaster of 
Paris sets before it can be worked, wet it 
with vinegar. The stronger the acid, the 
slower it will set. If cracks be filled with 
putty, and the wall be painted in gloss color, 
the streaks of putty are very apt to be flat 
(no gloss), and if painted in flat color, the 
streaks are quite sure to have a gloss. These 
streaks, of course, will spoil the beauty of the 
work, but do not affect its durability. When 
filled with plaster of Pads the reversion of 
gloss never appears, if done as directed below. 
If the cracks be only in the wash, the latter 
is loosening from the wall ; and if it has not 
begun to scale, it soon will, and all attempts 
to fasten it on and paint it will be total loss. 
If it be loose enough to scrape off, scrape the 
wall, taking care not to gouge into the original 
wall. If not loose enough, let it alone until 
it is. If the wash be thin, solid, and even, it 
can be painted to look and wear well. When 
the surface is lumpy, rub the lumps off with 
a sandstone, or a brick. After a wall has 
been prepared, as in either of above cases, or 
if a wall that has never been washed is to 
be painted, size it with 2 coats of glue size (3 
ounces glue to 1 gallon water). {See No. 
2815.) Be sure the glue is all dissolved before 
using any of it. Let the first coat dry before 
the second coat is put on. 



HOUSE PAINTING. 



255 



2764. To Paint Whitewashed Walls. 

"When the second coat of glue size {see No. 
2763) is dry, paint as follows : Mix the first 
coat of paint in the proportion of 1 gallon raw 
linseed oil to 15 pounds white lead, ground in 
oil, and 1 gill of dryer. Second coat : 1 gal- 
lon raw linseed oil, 25 pounds white lead 
ground in oil, and i gill dryer. (The lead 
should be the best.) Then finish either in 
gloss or flat color, the same as if it were wood 
work with one good coat of priming. Shade 
all the coats of paint, as near as you can, to 
the color you wish to finish in. Mix the 
third and fourth coats the same as the first, 
that is, about the same thickness for a gloss 
finish, and a little thinner for a flat finish. 

2765. Flexible Paint for Canvas. 
Dissolve 2i pounds good yellow soap, cut in 
slices, in 1 5 gallons boiling water ; grind the 
solution while hot with 140 pounds good oil 
paint. 

2766. Durable Black Paint for Out- 
Door Work. Grind powdered charcoal in 
linseed oil, with sufficient litharge as drier; 
thin for use with well-boiled linseed oil. 

2767. Green Paint for Out-Door 
Work. Add to the black paint, made ac- 
cording to the last receipt, sufficient yellow 
ochre to make the shade of green required. 
This is preferable for garden work, to the 
bright green paint generally used, as it does 
not fade. 

2768. Paint for Iron Work. There is 
no production for iron work so efficacious as 
well boiled linseed oil, properly laid on. The 
iron should be first well cleaned and freed 
from all rust and dirt ; the oil should be of 
the best quality, and well boiled, without 
litharge or any dryer being added. The iron 
should be painted over with this, but the oil 
must be laid on as bare as possible, and on this 
fact depends in a great measure the success 
of the application ; for if there be too thick a 
coat of oil put upon the work, it will skin 
over, be liable to blister, and scarcely ever 
get hard ; but if iron be painted with three 
coats of oil, and only so much put on each 
coat as can be made to cover it by hard 
brushing, we will guarantee that the same 
will preserve the iron from the atmosphere 
for a much longer time than any other process 
of painting. If a dark coloring matter be 
necessary, we prefer burnt umber to any 
other pigment as a stain ; it is a good hard 
dryer, and has mauy other good properties, 
and mixes well with the oil without injuring it. 

2769. Painting' in Milk. In conse- 
quence of the injury which has often resulted 
to sick and weakly persons from the smell of 
common paint, the following method of paint- 
ing with milk has been adopted by some 
workmen, which, for the interior of buildings, 
besides being as free as distemper from any 
offensive odor, is said to be nearly equal to 
oil-painting in body and durability. Take 5 
gaUon skimmed milk, 6 ounces lime newly 
slacked, 4 ounces poppy, linseed, or nut oil, 
and 3 pounds Spanish white. Put the lime 
into an earthen vessel or clean bucket, and 
having poured on it a sufficient quantity of 
milk to make it about the thickness of cream, 
add the oil in small quantities at a time, stir- 
ring the mixture with a wooden spatula. 
Then put in the rest of the milk, and after- 



wards the Spanish white. It is, in general, 
indifiereut which of the oils above mentioned 
you use; but, for pure white, oil of poppy is 
the best. The oil in this composition, being 
dissolved by the lime, wholly disappears; 
and, uniting with the whole of the other in- 
gredients, forms a kind of calcareous soap. In 
putting in the Spanish white, be careful that it 
is finely powdered and strewed gently over 
the surface of the mixture. It then, by de- 
grees, imbibes the liquid and sinks to the 
bottom. Milk skimmed in summer is often 
found to be curdled ; but this is of no conse- 
quence in the present preparation, as its com- 
bining with the lime soon restores it to its 
fluid state. But it must on no account be 
sour ; because in that case it would, by uni- 
ting with the fime, form an earthy salt, which 
could not resist any degree of dampness in 
the air. 

2770. To Make Paint without Oil or 
Lead. Whiting, 5 pounds; skimmed milk, 
2 quarts ; fresh slacked lime, 2 ounces. Put 
the lime into a stone-ware vessel, pour upon 
it a sufficient quantity of the milk to make a 
mixture resembling cream; the balance of 
the milk is then to be added ; and lastly the 
whiting is to be crumbled upon the surface of 
the fluid, in which it gradually sinks. At 
this period it must be well stirred in, or ground 
as you would other paint, and it is fit for use. 
There may be added any coloring matter that 
suits the fancy, to be applied in the same man- 
ner as other paints, and in a few hours it will 
become perfectly dry. Another coat may then 
be added, and so on until the work is done. 
This paint is oi great tenacity, bears rubbing 
with a coarse cloth, has little smell, even 
when wet, and when dry is inodorous. It 
also possesses the merit of cheapness, the 
above quantity being sufficient for 57 vards. 

2771. Paint for Old Weather-Board- 
ing", or Boat Bottoms. Take 5 gallons 
boiled linseed oil, 4 gpUons raw oil, 1 gallon 
benzine, and 80 pounds Eocky Mountain 
vermilion. 

2772. Fireproof Paint. Take a quan- 
tity of the best quicklime, and slack with wa- 
ter in a covered vessel ; when the slacking is 
complete, water or skim milk, or a mixture 
of both, should be added to the lime, and 
mixed up to the consistency of cream ; then 
there must be added, at the rate of 20 pounds 
alum, 15 pounds potash, and 1 bushel salt to 
every 100 gallons of creamy liquor. If the 
paint is required to be white, 6 pounds plaster 
of Paris, or the same quantity of fine white 
clay, is to be added to the above propor- 
tions of the other ingredients. All these 
ingredients being mingled, the mixture must 
then be strained through a fine sieve, and 
afterwards ground in a color raUl. "When 
roofs are to be covered, or when crumbling 
brick walls are to be coated, fine white sand 
is mixed with the paint, in the proportion 
of 1 pound sand to 10 gallons of paint ; this 
addition being made with a view of giving the 
ingredients a binding or petrifying quality. 
This paint should always be appKed in a hot 
state, and in very cold weather precautions 
are necessary to keep it from freezing. Three 
coats of this paint are deemed, in most cases, 
sufficient. Any color may be obtained by 
adding the usual pigments to the composition. 



^5G 



HOUSE PAINTING 



2773. To Paint an Old House. Take 
3 gallons water and 1 pint flax .seed; boil ^ 
Jiour ; take it oif and add water enough to 
make 4 gallons ; let it stand to settle ; ponr 
off the water in a pail, and put in enough of 
Spanish white to make it as thick as white- 
wash ; then add i pint linseed oil ; stir it 
well and apply with a brush. If the whiting 
does not mix readily, add more water. Flax 
geed^ having the nature of oil, is better than 
glue, and will not wash off as readilj^. 

2774. Paint for Boilers. The best 
paint for boilers is asphaltum dissolved in 
spirits of turpentine over a gentle fire. Pul- 
verize the asphaltum and dissolve as much 
as will be taken up by the turpentine. If 
pure it will last. 

2775. To Reduce Paint Skins to Oil. 
Dissolve 5 pound sal-soda in 1 gallon rain 
water. The skins that dry upon the top of 
paint which has been left standing for any 
length of time, may be made fit for use again 
by covering them with the sal-soda water and 
soaking them therein for a couple of days; 
then heat them, adding oil to reduce the mix- 
ture to a proper consistence for painting, and 
strain. 

2776. To Remove the Smell of New 
Paint. Hay sprinkled with a little chloride 
of lime, and left for an hour in a closed room, 
will remove the smell of new paint. 

2777. To Kill Knots before Painting. 
A mixture of glue size and red lead ; or shel- 
lac dissolved in alcohol and mixed with red 
lead ; or gutta-percha dissolved in ether ; will, 
either of them, make a good coating for knots, 
but will not stand the sunshine, which will 
draw the pitch through the paint. The best 
method is to cover the knot with oil size, and 
lay a leaf of silver over it. 

2778. To Kill Grease Spots Before 
Painting. Wash over smoky or greasy parts 
with saltpetre, or very thin lime whitewash. 
If soap-suds are used, they must be washed 
off thoroughly, as they prevent the paint from 
drving hard. 

'2779. To Make a Sticky Painted Sur- 
face Hard. Rub it well in, with a brush, 
with Japan and turpentine mixed together. 

2780. To Prepare Plastered Walls for 
Painting. Plastered and hard finished walls 
must have a coating of glue size before paint- 
ing. {See No. 'iSlb.) 

2781. To Economize Paint. Save all 
the skins, cleanings and scrapings of the paint 
pots, and wipings out of the brushes; these, 
boiled up in oil, make a cheap and durable 
coating for outside work. {See No. 2775.) 

2782. To Remove Smalt from Old 
Signs. Spread over it, potash dissolved in 
water, and then scrape the smalt off. If the 
potash stands too long before scraping, it may 

'soak into the wood; and paint afterwards put 
on will not dry well. 

2783. To Remove Putty from Glass. 
Dip a small brush in nitric or muriatic acid, 
and with it paint over the dry putty that ad- 
heres to the broken glasses and frames of the 
windows. After an hour's interval the putty 
will have become so soft as to be easily re- 
movable. 

2784. To Soften Putty in Window 
Frames. To soften putty in window frames, 
so that the glass may be taken out without 



breakage or cutting, take 1 pound American 
pearlash, 3 pounds quick stone lime, slack the 
lime in water, then add the pearlash, and 
make the whole about the consistence of paint. 
Apply it to both sides of the glass, and let it 
remain for 12 hours, when the putty will be 
so softened that the glass may be taken out of 
the frame without being cut, and with the 
greatest facility. {See No. 2786.) 

2785. To Remove Hard Putty. This 
may be effected with a paste of caustic potassa, 
prepared by mixing the caustic alkali, or even 
carbonate of potash or soda, with equal parts 
of freshly burnt quicklime, which has pre- 
viously been sprinkled with water, so as to 
cause it to fall into powder. This mixture is 
then made with water to a paste, and spread 
on the putty to be softened. Where one ap- 
pHcation is not sufficient, it is repeated. In 
order to prevent the paste from drying too 
quickly, it is well to mix it with less water, 
adding some soft-soap. 

2786. For Removing Old Putty. For 
removing hard putty from a window- sash, 
take a square piece of iron, make the same 
red-hot, and run it along the putty till it gets 
soft. The putty will peel off without injuring 
the wood-work. Concentrated lye made of 
lime and alkali will affect the wood and make 
it rot quicker. {See No. 2784.) 

2787. To Remove Paint from Old 
Work. To destroy paint on old doors, etc., 
lay the mixtm-e in receipt No. 2784 over 
the whole body of the work which is re- 
quired to be cleaned, with an old brush (as it 
wiU spoil a new one) ; let it remain for 12 or 
14 hours, when the paint can be easily scraped 
off. These two receipts have been used by a 
practical painter and glazier for years. 

2788. To Remove Paint from Wood. 
Where it is necessary to remove paint entire- 
ly, this is generally done by scraping; an- 
other way is to soften the paint by passing a 
flat flame over a portion of the surface at a 
time, and it can be scraped off easily while 
hot ; but the method most recommended is 
to lay on a thick coating or plaster of fresh 
slacked lime mixed with soda; next day, wash 
it ofl' with water, and it will remove the paint, 
leaving the surface clean. 

2789. To Remove Paint from Stone. 
A correspondent of the Loudcm Builder, hav- 
ing to clean a pulpit and sedilia in which the 
carving and tracery were almost filled up with 
successive coats of paint, was informed that 
common washing-soda, dissolved in boihng 
water, and applied hot, would remove it. He 
found that 3 pounds of soda to a gallon of 
water, laid on with a common paint-brush, 
answered the purpose admirably, softening the 
paint in a short time, so that it was easily re- 
moved with a stiff scrubbing-brush ; after- 
ward, on adding a few ounces of potash to the 
solution, it softened more readily than with 
soda only. The stone in both cases was a 
fine freestone. 

^ 2790. To Soften Hard Putty. Break 
the putty in lumps of the size of a hen's e^^, 
add a small portion of linseed oil, and water 
sufficient to cover the putty ; boil this in an 
iron vessel for about 10 minutes, and stir it 
when hot. The oil will mix with the putty. 
Then pour the water off, and it will be like 
fresh made. 



KALSOMINE AND WHITEWASH. 



257 



2791. To Clean Old Paint Cans, 
Buckets, etc. This can be thoroughly done 
with hot, strong lye. 

2792. To Pencil or Point Brick Work. 

The upright as well as the horizontal lines 
should be drawn with a straight edge, as the 
least want of uniformity spoils the appearance 
of the brick work. White lead mixed with 
turpentine, and thick enough to set firm, is 
the best for this purpose. 



Kalsomine and White- 
"Wash.. The following receipts in- 
clude the methods of preparing and applying 
white and other coatings on walls, etc., as 
well as the preparatory treatment of the sur- 
face to which they are to be applied, and other 
useful information. 

2794. To Prepare Kalsomine. Kalso- 
mine is composed of zinc white mixed with 
water and glue sizing. The surface to which 
it is applied must be -^lean and smooth. For 
ceilings, mix i pound glue with 15 pounds 
zinc ; for walls, 1 pound glue with 15 pounds 
zinc. The glue, the night before its use, 
should be soaked in water,'and in the morning 
liquefied on the fire. It is difficult to prepare 
or apply kalsomine; few painters can do so 
successfully. Paris white is often made use 
of for it, but it is not the genuine article. 
{See next receipt.) The kalsomining mixture 
may be colored to almost any required tint by 
mixing appropriate coloring matter with it. 

2795. To Kalsomine Walls. In case 
the wall of a large room, say 16 by 20 feet 
square, is to be kalsomined with two coats, it 
will require about i pound light-colored glue 
and 5 or 6 pounds Paris white. {See last re- 
ceipt.) Soak the glue over night, in a tin ves- 
sel containing about a quart of warm water. 
If the kalsomine is to be applied the next day, 
add a pint more of clean water to the glue, and 
set the tin vessel containing the glue into a 
kettle of boiling water over the fire, and con- 
tinue to stir the glue nntil it is well dissolved 
and quite thin. If the glue pail be placed in 
a kettle of boiling water, the glue will not be 
scorched. Then, after putting the Paris white 
into a large water pail, pour on hot water, and 
stir it until the liquid appears like thick milk. 
Now mingle the glue liquid with the whiting, 
stir it thoroughly, and apply it to the wall 
with a whitewash-brush, or with a large paint- 
brush. It is of little consequence what kind 
of an instrument is employed in laying on the 
kalsomine, provided the liquid is spread 
smoothly. Expensive brushes, made express- 
ly for kalsomining, may be obtained at brush 
factories, and at some^ drug and hardware 
stores. But a good whitewash-brush, having 
long and thick hair, will do very well. In 
case the liquid is so thick that it wiU not flow 
from the brush so as to make smooth work, 
add a little more hot water. When applying 
the kalsomine, stir it frequently. Dip the 
Brush often, and only so deep in the liquid as 
to take as much as the hair will retain with- 
out letting large drops fall to the floor If too 
much glue be added, the kalsomine cannot be 
laid on smoothly, and will be liable to crack. 
The aim should be to apply a thin layer of siz- 



ing that cannot be brushed oS* with a broom 
or drv cloth. A thin coat will not crack. 

2796. Whitewash for Out-Door Use. 
Take a clean water-tight barrel, or other suit- 
able cask, and put into it i bushel lime. 
Slack it by pouring boihng water over it, and 
in sufficient quantity to cover 5 inches deep, 
stirring it briskly till thoroughly slacked. 
When slacking has been efi"ected, dissolve in 
water and add 2 pounds sulphate of zinc and 
1 of common salt. These will cause the wash 
to harden and prevent it from cracking, which 
gives an unseemly appearance to the work. 
If desirable, a beautiful cream color may be 
communicated to the above wash, by adding 
3 pounds yellow ochre. This wash may be 
applied with a common whitewash-brush, and 
will be found much superior, both in appear- 
ance and durability, to common whitewash. 

2797. Treasury Department White- 
wash. This receipt for whitewashing, sent 
out by the Lighthouse Board of the Treasury 
Department, has been found, by experience, 
to answer on wood, brick and stone, nearly as 
well as oil paint, and is much cheaper. Slack 
5 bushel unslacked lime with boiling water, 
keeping it covered during the process. Strain 
it, and add a peck of salt, dissolved in warm 
water; 3 pounds ground rice put in boiling 
water, and boiled to a thin paste; 5 pound 
powdered Spanish whiting, and a pound of 
clear glue, dissolved in warm water; mix 
these well together, and let the mixture stand 
for several days. Keep the wash thus pre- 
pared in a kettle or portable furnace, and^ 
when used, put it on as hot as possible, with, 
painters' or whitewash-brushes. 

2798. To Color Whitewash. Coloring- 
matter may be x^nt in and made of any shade. 
Spanish brown stirred in will make red pink, 
more or less deep according to the quantity. 
A delicate tinge of this is very pretty for in- 
side walls. Finely pulverized common clay, 
well mixed with Spanish brown, make a red- 
dish stone color. TeUow ochre stirred in. 
makes yellow wash, but chrome goes further, 
and makes a color generally esteemed prettier. 
In all these cases the darkness of the shades 
of course is determined by the quantity of 
coloring used. It is difficult to make rules, 
because tastes are difi'erent ; it would be best 
to try experiments on a shingle and let it dry. 
Grreen must not be mixed with lime. The 
lime destroys the color, and the color has an 
eflcct on the whitewash, which makes it crack 
and peel. When walls have been badly 
smoked, and you wish to have them a clean 
white, it is well to squeeze indigo plentifully 
through a bag into the water you use, before 
it is stirred in the whole mixture. 

2799. Zinc Whitewash. Mix oxide of 
zinc with common size, and apply it with a 
whitewash-brush to the ceiling. After this, 
apply in the same manner a wash of chloride 
of zinc, which will combine with the oxide 
to form a smooth cement with a shining sur- 
face. 

2800. A Fine Whitewash for WaUs. 
Soak I pound of glue over night in tepid wa- 
ter. The next day put it into a tin vesse< 
with a quart of water, set the vessel in a 
kettle of water over a fire, keep it there till 
it boils, and then stir until the glue is dissolv- 
ed. Xext put from 6 to 8 pounds Paris white 



PAPER RANGING. 



into another vessel, add hot water, and stir 
until it has the appearance of milk of lime. 
Add the sizing, stir well, and apply in the or- 
dinary way, while still warm. Except on 
very dark and smoky walls and ceilings, a 
rsingle coat is sufficient. It is nearly equal in 
brilliancy to zinc-white (a far more expensive 
Article), and is very highly recommended by 
those who have used it. Paris white is sul- 
phate of baryta, and may be found at any 
drug or paint store. 

2801. Fire-Proof Whitewash. Make 
ordinary whitewash and add 1 part silicate of 
soda (or potash) to every 5 parts of the white- 
wash. {See N0.2S1Q.) 

2802. Whitewash for Outside Work. 
Take of good quicklime ^ a bushel, slack in 
the usual manner and add 1 pound common 
salt, i pound sulphate of zinc (white vitriol), 
and 1 gallon. sweet milk. The salt and the 
white vitriol should be dissolved before they 
are added, when the whole should be thor- 
oughly mixed with sufficient water to give the 
proper consistency. The sooner the mixture 
is then applied the better. 

2803. Whitewash for Fences or Out- 
Buildings. ' Slack the lime in boiling water, 
and to 3 gallons ordinary whitewash add 1 
pint molasses and 1 pint table salt. Stir the 
mxiture frequently while putting it on. Two 
thin coats are sufficient. 

2804. To Mix Whitewash. Pour boil- 
ing water on unslacked lime, and stir it occa- 
sionally while it is slacking, as it will make 
the paste smoother. To 1 peck of lime add 
a quart of salt and ^ ounce of indigo dis- 
solved in water, or the same quantity of 
Prussian blue finely powdered; add water 
to make it the proper thickness to put on a 
w^all. 1 pound soap will give gloss. 

2805. To Keep Whitewash. Keep 
the lime covered with water and in a tub 
which has a cover, to prevent dust or dirt 
from falhng in. If the water evaporates the 
lime is useless, but if kept covered it will be 
good as long as any remains. 

2806. To Whiten Smoked Walls. A 
method of cleamng and whitening smoked 
walls consists, in the first place, of rubbing 
off all the black, loose dirt upon them, by 
means of a broom, and then washing them 
down with a strong soda lye, which is to be 
afterward removed by means of water to 
^hich a little hydrochloric acid has been 
added. When the walls are dry a thin coat- 
ing of Kme, with the addition of a solution of 
alum, is to be applied. After this has be- 
ffcome perfectly dry the walls are to be kalso- 
mined or coated with a solution of glue and 
chalk. 

2807. To Color, and Prevent White- 
■wash Rubbing Off. Alum is one of the 
best additions to make whitewash of lime 
which will not rub off. When powdered 
chalk is used glue water is also good, but 
would not do for outside work exposed to 
much rain. ISTothing is easier than to give it 
any desirea color by small quantities of lamp- 
black, brown sienna, ochre, or other coloring 
material. 

3808. To Paper Whitewashed Walls. 
The following method is simple, sure, and in- 
expensive: Make flour starch as you would 
for starching calico clothes, and, with a white- 



wash-brush, wet the wall you wish to paper, 
with the starch ; let it dry ; then, when you 
wish to apply the paper, wet the wall and 
paper both with the starch, and apply the pa- 
per. Walls have been papered in this way 
that have been whitewashed 10 or even 20 
years successively, and the paper has never 
failed to stick. When you wish to re-paper 
the wall, with the brush wet the paper with 
clear water, and it will come off readilv. (See 
No. 2811.) ^ ^ 

2809. Red Wash for Bricks. To re- 
move the green that gathers on bricks, pour 
over the bricks boiling water in which any 
vegetables (not greasy) have been boiled. 
Do this for a few days successively, and the 
green will disappear. For the red wash melt 
1 ounce of glue in a gallon of water ; while 
hot, put in a piece of alum the size of an egg, 
i pound Yenetian red, and 1 pound Spanish 
brown. Try a little on the bricks, let it dry, 
and if too light add more red and brown; if 
too dark, put in more water. This receipt 
was contributed by a person who has used it 
for 20 years with perfect success. 



Paper Hanging, in cities, 
this is either a trade by itself, or is 
carried on as an adjunct to the painter's trade. 
In rural districts, however, there are many 
housekeepers who do this work for them- 
selves. The following receipts are given for 
the guidance of housekeepers. 

2811. To Prepare a Wall for Paper- 
ing'. A new unwhitewashed wall will ab- 
sorb the paste so rapidly that, before drying, 
there will be left too little body of paste on 
the surface to hold the paper. A coating of 
good glue size, made by dissolving i pound 
of glue in a gallon of water (see No. 2815), or 
a coating of good paste, put on and allowed 
to dry before the paper is hung, will provide 
for this difficulty. If the wall be white- 
washed, it should be scratched with a stiff 
brush, to remove every particle of loose lime 
from the surface ; after which it should be 
thoroughly swept down with a broom, and 
coated with the glue size or thin paste. (See 
No. 2808.) 

2812. Utensils for Paper Hanging. 
A long table of thin boards cleated togethci 
and placed on wooden horses, such as are 
used by carpenters, a pair of sharp shears — 
with long blades, if possible — a whitewash- 
brush, a pail for paste, and a yard of cotton 
cloth, are the implements required. The 
tabic or board platform should be level on its 
upper surface to facilitate the distribution of 
the paste. The latter should be free from 
lumps, and should be laid on as evenly as 
possible. It should be made of good sweet 
rye or wheat flour, beaten smooth in cold wa- 
ter before boiling, and should not be allowed 
to boil morre than a minute or two, but should 
be raised to the boiling point slowly, being 
continually stirred till it is taken from the 
fire. (See No. 2272.) 

2813. To Prepare Paper for Hang- 
ing. Inexpert hands often find difficulty in 
hanging the lengths of paper so as to make 
the patterns match, ifo general directions 



SOLUBLE GLASS. 



259 



can be given for this, but a little study at the 
outset will often save cutting to waste, and 
other difficulties. In this matter, as iu others, 
it is wise to " first be sure you are right, then 
go ahead." As soon as the proper way to cut 
the paper is decided upon, a whole roll, or 
more, may be cut at once, and the pieces laid, 
printed side downwards, upon the table, 
weights being placed upon the ends to prevent 
curling. The paste should then be applied 
to the back of the uppermost piece, as expe- 
ditiously as possible, as the longer the time 
employed in this part of the operation, the 
more tender will the paper get, and the more 
difficult it will be to hang it properly. About 
one-quarter of the length should be turned up 
at the bottom of the strip before hanging ; 
as, without this, the bottom is apt to stick to 
the wall before the upper part of the strip 
can be adjusted. If the paper is very thick, 
both ends must be folded over, so as to meet 
in the middle. Besides being more conve- 
nient for handling, this allows the paper to 
soften, without the paste getting dry. 

2814. To Apply Paper to^ Walls. 
The upper end of the piece should then be 
taken by the corners, and the operator, step- 
ping upon a bench or step-ladder, should 
barely stick the piece at the top, and in such 
a manner that the edge shall coincide with 
the piece previously hung; this can be done 
by sighting down the trimmed edge of the 
piece, while it is held in the hands. The 
cloth should now be held in a loose bunch, 
and the paper smoothed with it from top to 
bottom, care being taken to work out all air 
from under the paper, which, if not thorough- 
ly done, will give it a very unsightly blistered 
appearance. If any air remains under a part 
of the strip after it has been hung, a hole 
must be pricked through the paper with a 
pin, to allow of its escape. A soft flat whisk- 
brush (such as is used for brushing clothes) is 
better for smoothing the paper than a cloth. 
After the top is secured so that the pattern 
matches, brush once down the centre of the 
strip as far as the paste is exposed. Then 
carefully unfold the bottom of the strip, brush 
down the centre, and smooth the whole by 
brushing from the centre to the edges, right 
and left, all the way down, finishing with one 
sweep down the trimmed edge, to ensure a 
perfect join. A moist cloth should be always 
at hand to keep the fingers clean and free 
from color. If the wall be uneven or crooked, 
as is often the case in old houses, it will be 
difficult to avoid wrinkles, but they can be 
mostly got rid of by cutting the paper and 
allowing the cut edges to lap over each other, 
in places where there would otherwise be a 
wrinkle. By following these directions the 
most inexperienced wiU. be aWe to do a 
reasonably tidy piece of work, y6ut of course 
a high degree of skiU is oujly secured by 
practice. 

2815. To Make Glue Sizing. Break 
up the glue into small pieces, put it in a 
vessel with sufficient cold water to just cover 
it ; let it soak over night, and in the morning 
the glue will be soft enough to melt readily 
with a moderate heat, or in a water-bath. 
Add water to reduce to the desired con- 
sistency. This must be applied as directed 
in the foregoing receipts. 



Soluble G-laSS. This is a combi- 
nation of siUca with an alkali, soluble iu 
boiling water, yielding a fine, transparent, 
semi-elastic varnish. Vhcn made according 
to Liemen's or Kuhlman's method, under in- 
creased pressure and heat, it is unafi"ected by 
cold water, and the object painted or covered 
by the same can only be deprived of its coat- 
ing by nndergoing the same heat and pressure 
as was required to prepare the original solu- 
tion. Soluble glass prepared from potash is 
usually called silicate of potash ; that from 
soda being silicate of soda. The most ex- 
tensive use which is made, at present, of solu- 
ble glass produced after the other methods, is 
for the adulteration of soap ; in fact, such a 
preparation is a kind of soap, in which the 
expensive fatty acids are replaced by the cheap 
silicic acid or sand ; but it is a bad soap, very 
caustic, as the silicic acid but very imperfectly 
neutralizes the alkali. Another use of water 
glass is that of hardening cements, mortar, 
etc., so as to render them impermeable by 
water. 

2817. Fuchs' Soluble Potash. Glass. 
A mixture of 15 parts pulverized quartz, or 
pure quartz sand, 10 parts of well purified 
potash, and 1 part powdered charcoal, may be 
conveniently employed. These ingredients 
are to be well mixed and exposed to a strong 
heat in a fire-proof melting-pot for 5 or 6 
hours, until the whole fuses uniformly and 
steadily ; as much heat is required as is ne- 
cessary to melt common glass. The melted 
mass is then taken out by means of an iron 
spoon, and the melting-pot immediately re- 
filled with a fresh quantity. (At this stage 
of the process it is said by another authority, 
that, by pulverizing and exposing it to the air, 
it will absorb acidity, and by degrees the for- 
eign salts will, after frequent agitation and 
stirring, be completely separated, particularly 
after pouring over the mass some cold water, 
which dissolves them, but not the soluble 
glass.) It is then broken up, pulverized, and 
dissolved in about 5 parts of boiling water, 
by introducing it in small portions into an iron 
vessel and constantly stirring the liquid, re- 
placing the water as it evaporates, by adding 
hot water from time to time, and continuing 
to boil for 3 or 4 hours, until the whole is dis- 
solved — a shmy deposit excepted — and until 
a pellicle begins to form on the surface of the 
liquid, which indicates that the solution is in 
a state of great concentration ; it disappears, 
however, when the liquid is stirred ; and the 
boiling may then be continued for a short 
time, in order to obtain the solution in the 
proper state of concentration, when it has a 
specific gravity of from 1.24 to 1.25 (about 
28° Baume). In this state it is sufficiently 
liquid to be used in many operations; in some 
instances it will be necessary to dilute it with 
more or less water. When evaporated to a 
syrupy consistence, it can be employed with 
advantage in but few cases. Yery frequently 
it is found contaminated with a little sulphide 
of potassium, and it becomes necessary to add 
a little oxide of copper or copper scales to- 
wards the end of the boiling, which liberates 
a small quantity of potash, but which renders 
it rather more suitable for many practical pur- 
poses than otherwise. If it is desirable, bow- 
ever, to have a water-glass which is entirely 



260 



TO DYE WOOD 



neutral, it requires to be boiled with fresbly- 
precipitated silica as long as any silica is dis- 
solved. 

2818. Fuchs' Soluble Soda Glass. 

This is prepared in the same way as the potash 
glass {see No. 2817), with the exception tnat 
a smaller proportion of soda is required. A 
mixture of 45 parts by weight of quartz, 23 
parts dry carbonate of soda, and 3 parts char- 
coal, may be employed. The mixture fuses 
somewhat easier than potash glass. 

2819. Buchner's Soluble Soda Glass. 
Take 100 parts quartz, 60 parts dry sulphate 
of soda, and 15 to 20 parts charcoal. This is 
said to be cheaper than that made with car- 
bonate of soda, and is prepared in the same 
manner. By the addition of some copper 
scales to the mixture the sulphur will be sep- 
arated. Another method is proposed by dis- 
solving the fine silex in caustic soda lye. 
Kuhlman employs the powdered flint, which 
is dissolved in an iron caldron under a pres- 
sm-e of 7 to 8 atmospheres of steam. Liebig 
has recommended infusorial earth in place of 
sand, on account of its being readily soluble 
in caustic lye ; and he proposes to use 120 
parts of the earth to 75 parts of caustic soda, 
from which 240 parts of sihca jelly may be 
obtained. His mode is to calcine the earth so 
as to become white, and passing it through a 
sieve. The lye he prepares from 75 ounces of 
calcined soda, dissolved in 5 times the quan- 
tity of boiling water, and then treated by 56 
ounces of dry slacked lime ; this lye is con- 
centrated by boiling down to 48° Baume ; in 
this boiling \jq, 120 ounces of the prepared in- 
fusorial earth are added by degrees, which 
are readily dissolved, leaving scarcely any 
sediment. It has then to undergo several 
operations for making it suitable for use, such 
as treating again with lime-water, boiling it 
and separating any precipitate, which by con- 
tinued boiling forms into balls, and which can 
then be removed from the liquid. This clear 
liquid is then evaporated to the consistency 
of syrup ; it forms a jelly slightly colored, 
feels dry and not sticky, and is readily soluble 
in boiling water. The difi'erence between 
potash and soda soluble glass is not material ; 
the first may be preferred in whitewashing 
with plaster of Paris, while the soda glass is 
more fluidly divisible. 

2820. ' To Distinguish. Potash, and 
Soda Soluble Glass. By adding I volume 
of rectified alcohol to a concentrated solution 
of soluble potash glass, a gelatinous precipi- 
tate is formed, which, in a few days, is de- 
posited at the bottom of the vessel in a solid 
mass. The addition of alcohol to soluble soda 
glass converts it into a gelatinous mass, but 
aff'ords no precipitate. 

282 1 . To Make "Wood Incombustible. 
The application of soluble glass to wood ren- 
ders it almost incombustible. 

2822. Double Soluble Glass. A mix- 
ture of 3 parts by measure of concentrated 
potash soluble glass, and 2 parts concentrated 
soda glass, produce a double water-glass which 
will answer all practical purposes. 

The following preparation is also recom- 
mended by Fuchs, as being much easier to 
fuse. Take 100 parts quartz, 28 parts purified 
potash, 22 parts neutral dry carbonate of soda, 
and 6 parts powdered charcoal. 



2823. Soluble Glass for Stereo-Chro- 
mic Painting. Soluble glass for the use of 
stereo-chromic painting is obtained by fusing 
3 parts of pure carbonate of soda and 2 parts 
of powdered quartz, from which a concentrated 
solution is prepared, 1 part of which is then 
added to 4 parts of a concentrated and fully 
saturated solution of potash- glass solution, by 
which there is a more condensed amount of 
silica with the alkalies; this solution has 
been found to work well for paint. Siemens' 
patent for the manufacture of soluble glass 
consists in the production of a liquid quartz 
by digesting the sand or quartz in a steam- 
boiler tightly closed and at a temperature 
corresponding to 4 or 5 atmospheres, with the 
common caustic alkalies, which are in this 
way capacitated to dissolve from 3 to 4 times 
the weight of silica to a thin liquid. Experi- 
ence has taught that the soluble glass made 
in the old way, with an excess of alkali, can- 
not stand the influence of the atmosphere 
when used as a paint. The soda washes out, 
and leaves the silex in a pulverized condition, 
so that it soon disappears. TVhen, however, 
a closed boiler is used, according to Kuhlman's 
or Siemens' method, and a pressure of 7 or 8 
atmospheres, which corresponds with a tem- 
perature of some 120° above the boiling point 
of water, the solvent quahties of the latter 
are increased to such an extent as to enable it 
to dissolve a glass containing i to -J the amount 
of potash or soda. 



TO Dye "Wood. Dyeing wood i» 
mostly applied for giving color to ve- 
neers, while staining is more generally had re- 
course to, to give the desired color to an article 
after it has been manufactured. In the one 
case, the color should penetrate throughout, 
while in the latter the surface is all that is es- 
sential. After the veneers are cut, they should 
be allowed to lie in a trough of water for 4 or 

5 days before being put into the copper ; as 
the water brings out abundance of slimy mat- 
ter, which, if not thus removed, would prevent 
the wood taking a good color. After this pu- 
rifying process,"the veneers should be dried in 
the open air for at least 12 hours. They are 
then ready for the copper. By this simple 
method, the color will strike much quicker, 
and be of a brighter hue. It would also add 
to the quality of the colors, if, after the ve- 
neers have boiled a few hours, they are taken 
out, dried in the air, and again immersed in 
the coloring copper. Always dry veneers in 
the open air, for fire invariably injures the 
colors. (See Kos. 28^7, etc.) 

2825. Fine Black Dye for Wood. Put 

6 pounds chip logwood into the copper, with 
as many veneers as it will conveniently hold, 
without pressing too tight ; fill it with water, 
and let it boil slowly for about 3 hours ; then 
add 5 pound powdered verdigi'is, i pound cop- 
peras, and 4 ounces bruised nut-galls ; fiU the 
copper up with vinegar as the water evapo- 
rates ; let it boil gently 2 hours each day till 
the wood is dyed through. 

2826. Fine Yellow Dye for Wood. 
Eeduce 4 pounds of barberry root by sawing, 
to dust, which put in a copper or brass trough; 



TO D YE WOOD. 



261 



add 4 ounces turmeric and 4 gallons water, 
then put in as many white holly veneers as 
the liquor will cover ; boil them together for 
3 hours, often turning them ; when cool, add 
2 ounces aquafortis, and the dye will strike 
through much sooner. 

2827. Bright YeUow Dye for Wood. 
To every gallon of water necessary to cover 
the veneers, add 1 pound French hemes ; boil 
the veneers till the color has penetrated 
through ; add some brightening liquid {see 
next receipt) to the infusion of the French 
berries, and let the veneers remain for 2 or 3 
hours, and the color will be very bright. 

2828. Liquid For Brightening and 
Setting Colors. To every pint of strong 
aquafortis, add 1 ounce grain tin, and a piece 
of sal-ammoniac the size of a walnut ; set it 
by to dissolve, shake the bottle round with 
the cork out, from time to time : in the course 
of 2 or 3 days it will be fit for use. This will 
be found an admirable liquid to add to any 
color, as it not only brightens it, but renders 
it less likely to fade from exposure to the air. 

2829. Fine Blue Dye for Wood. Into 
a clean glass bottle put 1 pound oil of vitriol, 
and 4 ounces best indigo pounded in a mortar 
(take care to set the bottle in a basin or earth- 
en glazed pan, as it will effervesce), put the 
veneers into a copper or stone trough ; fill it 
rather more than \ with water, and add as 
much of the vitriol and indigo (stirring it 
about) as will make a fine blue, which you 
may know by trying it with a piece of white 
paper or wood ; let the veneers remain till the 
dye has struck through. The color will be 
much improved if the solution of indigo in 
vitriol be kept a few weeks before using it. 
The color wiU also strike better if the veneers 
be boiled in plain water till completely soaked 
through, and left for a few hours to dry par- 
tially, previous to immersing them in the dye. 

2830. Bright Green Dye for Wood. 
Proceed as in either of the previous receipts to 
produce a yellow; but instead of adding 
aquafortis or the brightening liquid, add as 
much vitriolated mdigo {see last receipt) as 
will produce the desired color. 

2831. Bright Red Dye for Wood. To 
2 pounds genuine Brazil dust, add 4 gallons 
water ; put in as many veneers as the liquor 
will cover ; boil them for 3 hours ; then add 2 
ounces alum, and 2 ounces aquafortis, and 
keep it lukewarm until it has sti'uck through. 

2832. Red Dye for Wood. To every 
pound of logwood chips, add 2 galhms water; 
pat in the veneers, and boil as in the last; 
then add a sufficient quantity of the brighten- 
ing liquid {see No. 2828), till the color is of a 
satisfactory tint ; keep the whole as warm as 
you can bear your finger in it, till the color 
has sufficiently penetrated. The logwood 
chips should be picked from all foreign sub- 
stances with which it generally abounds, as 
bark, dirt, &c.; and it is always best when 
fresh cut, which may be known by its ap- 
pearing of a bright red color ; for if stale, it 
will look brown, and not yield so much color- 
ing matter. 

2833. Rose Colored Dye for Wood. 
Monier produces a fine pink or rose-color on 
wood of cellulose, especially that of the ivory 
nut, by immersing it first in a solution of 
iodide of potassium, \^ ounces per pint of 



water, in which it remains for several hours, 
when it is placed in a bath of corrosive subli- 
mate, 135 grains to the pint, "\7hen properly 
dyed it is washed and varnished over. We 
should think that less poisonous materials 
might be found to answer the same purpose. 

2834. Bright Purple Dye for Wood. 
Boil 2 pounds logwood, either in chips or pow- 
der, in 4 gallons water, with the veneers ; after 
boiling till the color is well struck in, add byi 
degrees vitriolated indigo {see No. 2829), till 
the purple is of the shade required, which 
may be known by trying it with a piece of 
paper ; let it then boil for 1 hour, and keep the 
liquid in a milk-warm state till the color has 
penetrated the veneer. This method, when 
properly managed, will produce a brilliant 
purple. 

2835. Orange Dye for Wood. Let the 
veneers be dyed by either of the methods 
given for a fine deep j^ellow {see Nos. 2826 
and 2827), and while they are still wet and 
saturated with the dye, transfer them to the 
bright red dye {see No. 2821), till the color 
penetrates equally throughout. 

2836. Silver-Gray Dye for Wood. 
Expose any quantity of old iron, or, what is 
better, the borings of gun-barrels, &c , in any 
convenient vessel, and from time to time 
sprinkle them with muriatic acid, diluted in 
4 times its quantity of water, till they are 
very thickly covered with rust ; then to every 
6 pounds add 1 gallon of water in which has 
been dissolved 2 ounces salt of tartar (car- 
bonate of potassa) ; lay the veneers in the 
copper, and cover them with this liquid ; let 
it boil for 2 or 3 hours till well soaked, then 
to every gallon of liquor add k pound of 
green copperas, and keep the whole at a 
moderate temperature till the dye has suffi-. 
cieutly penetrated. 

2837. To Dye Veneers. Some manu- 
facturers of Germany, who had been sup- 
plied from Paris with veneers, colored through- 
out their mass, were necessitated by the late 
war to produce them themselves. Mr. Pus- 
cher states that experiments made in this 
direction gave in the beginning colors fixed 
only on the outside, while the inside was un- 
touched, until the veneers were soaked for 24 
hours in a soluticm of caustic soda containing 
10 per cent, of soda, and boiled therein for % 
hour ; after washing them with sufficient wa- 
ter to remove the alkali, they may be dyed 
throughout their mass. This treatment with 
soda effects a general disintegration of the 
wood, whereby it becomes, in the moist state, 
elastic and leather-like, and ready to absorb 
the color ; it must then, after dyeing, be dried 
between sheets of paper and subjected to pres- 
sure to retain its shape. 

2838. To Dye Veneers Black. Te- 
neers treated as in last receipt and left for 24 
hours in a hot decoction of logwood (1 part 
logwood to 3 water), removing them after 
the lapse of that time, and, after drying them 
superficially, putting them into a hot solution 
of copperas (1 part copperas to 30 water), 
will, after 24 hours, become beautifully and 
completely dyed black. 

2839. To Dye Veneers Yellow. A 
solution of 1 part picric acid in 60 water, 
with the addition of so much ammonia as to 
become perceptible to the smell, dyes veneers 



262 



TO STAIN WOOD. 



yellow, •which, color is not in the least affected 
hj subsequent varnishing. Before dyeing, 
the veneers reanire the preparatory treatment 
given in l^o. 2837. 

2840. To Dye Veneers Rose-Color. 
Coralline dissolved in hot water, to which a 
little caustic soda and one-fifth of its volume 
of soluble glass has been added, produces 
rose-colors of different shades, dependent on 
the amount of coralline taken. {See No. 
2S'S7.) 

2841. To Dye Veneers Silver-Gray. 
The only color which veneers will take up, 
without previous treatment of soda, is silver- 
^ay, produced by soaking them for a day in a 
solution of 1 part copperas to 100 parts water. 



TO Stain Wood, staining 
wood is altogether a different process 
from dyeing it, and requires no preparation 
before the stain be applied. In preparing the 
stain, but little trouble is required; and, 
generally speaking, its application differs very 
little from that of painting. When carefully 
done, and properly varnished, staining has a 
very beautiful appearance, and is much less 
likely to meet with injury than japanning. 

2843. Black Stain for Immediate 
Use. Boil i pound chip logwood in 2 quarts 
water, add 1 ounce pearlash, and apply it hot 
to the work with a brush. Then take k 
pound logwood, boil it as before in 2 quarts 
water, and add i ounce verdigris and h ounce 
green copperas ; strain it off, put in i pound 
rusty steel filings; with this, go over the 
work a second time. 

2844. To Stain Wood Like Ebony. 
Take a solution of sulphate of iron (green 
copperas), and wash the wood over with it 
2 or 3 times; let it dry, and apply 2 or 3 coats 
of a strong hot decoction of logwood ; wipe 
the wood, when dry, with a sponge and wa- 
ter, and polish with linseed oil. 

2845. To Stain Wood Light Mahog- 
any Color. Brush over the surface with 
diluted nitrous acid, and when dry apply the 
following, with a soft brush: dragon's blood, 
4 ounces; common soda, 1 ounce; spirit of 
wine, 3 pints. Let it stand in a warm place, 
shake it frequently, and then strain. Repeat 
the application until the proper color is 
obtained. 

2846. To Stain Dark Mahogany 
Color. Boil ^ pound madder and 2 ounces 
logwood in 1 gallon water ; then brush the 
wood well over with the hot liquid. "When 
dry, go over the whole with a solution of 2 
drachms pearlash in 1 quart water. 

2847. To Stain Mahogany Color. 
Pure Socotrine aloes, 1 ounce; dragon's 
blood, ^ ounce ; rectified spirit, 1 pint ; dis- 
solve, and apply 2 or 3 coats to the surface of 
the wood ; finish off with wax or oil tinged 
with alkanet. Or : Wash over the wood with 
strong aquafortis, and when dry, apply a coat 
of the above varnish ; polish as last. Or : 
Logwood, 2 ounces; madder, Bounces; fustic, 
1 ounce ; water, 1 gallon ; boil 2 hours, and 
apply it several times to the wood boiling 
hot ; when dry, slightly brush it over with a 
solution of pearlash. 1 ounce, in water, 1 



quart ; dry and polish as before. Or : Log'- 
wood, 1 part ; water, 8 parts. Make a decoc- 
tion and apply it to the wood ; when dry 
give it 2 or 3 coats of the following vamish 
dragon's blood, 1 part; spirits of ^^ine, 2'o' 
parts. Mix. 

2848. Beechwood Mahogany. Dis- 
solve 2 ounces dragon's blood and 1 ounce 
aloes in 1 quart rectified spirit of wine, and 
apply it to the surface of the wood previ- 
ously well polished. Or : Wash over the sur- 
face of the wood with aquafortis, and when 
thoroughly dry give it a coat of the above 
varnish. Or : Boil 1 pound logwood chips in 
2 quarts water, and add 2 handfuls of walnut 
peel ; boil again, then strain, and add 1 pint 
good vinegar ; apply as above. 

2849. Artificial Mahogany. The 
following method of giving any species of 
wood of a close grain the appearance of ma- 
hogany in texture, density, and polish, is said 
to \>Q practiced in France with success. The 
surface is planed smooth, and the wood is 
then rubbed with a solution of nitrous acid ; 
1 ounce dragon's blood is dissolved in nearly 
a pint of spirits of wine ; this, and \ ounce 
carbonate of soda, are then to be mixed to- 
gether and filtered, and the liquid in this 
thin state is to be laid on with a soft brush. 
This process is to be repeated, and in a short 
interval afterwards the wood possesses the 
external appearance of mahogany. When 
the polish diminishes in brilliancy, it may be 
restored by the use of a little cold-drawn 
linseed oil. 

2850. Fine Black Stain. Boil 1 
pound logwood in 4 quarts water, add a 
double handful of walnut-peel or shells ; boil 
it up again, take out the chips, add 1 pint 
best vinegar, and it will be fit for use ; apply 
it boiling hot. This will be improved by 
applying a hot solution of green copperas 
dissolved in water (an ounce to a quart), 
over the first stain. 

2851. To Imitate Bosewood. Boil f 
pound logwood in 3 pints water till it is of a 
very dark red; add k ounce salt of tartar 
(carbonate of potassa). While boiling hot^ 
stain the wood with 2 or 3 coats, taking care 
that it is nearly dry between each ; then, with 
a stiff flat brush, such as is used by the paint- 
ers for graining, form streaks with the black 
stain above named {see last receijyt), which^ 
if carefully executed, will be very nearly the 
appearance of dark rosewood; or, the black 
streaks may be put in with a camel's hair pen- 
cil, dipped in a solution of copperas and verdi- 
gris in a decoction of logwood. A handy brush 
for the purpose may be made out of a flat 
brush, such as is used for varnishing ; cut the 
sharp points off, and make the edges irregular, 
by cutting out a few hairs here and there, and 
you will have a tool which will accurately 
imitate the grain. 

2852. To Imitate Rosewood. Stain 
with the black stain {see No. 2850) ; and 
when dry, with a brush dipped in the bright- 
ening liquid {see No. 2828), form red veins, in 
imitation of the grain of rosewood, which 
will produce a beautiful effect. 

2853. New Stain for Wood. Per- 
manganate of potassa is recommended as a 
rapid and excellent stain for wood. A solu- 
tion of It spread upon pear or cherry wood. 



» 



VAENISH. 



26S 



for a few minutes, leaves a permanent dark 
brown color, which, after careful washing, 
drying, and oiling, assumes a reddish tint upon 
being polished. 

2854. Stolzel's Method of Staining 
Wood Brown. Dr. Stolzel adds another to 
the many receipts already given for staining 
wood of a brown color. First of all paint 
over the wood with a solution made by 
boiling 1 part of catechu (Cutch or Grambier) 
with 30 parts water and a little soda. This is 
allowed to dry in the air, and the wood is 
then painted over with another solution made 
of 1 part bichromate of potash and 30 parts 
water. By a little difference in the mode of 
treatment, and by varying the strength of the 
solutions, various shades of color may be 
given with these materials, which will be 
permanent and tend to preserve the wood. 

2855. To Darken Light Mahogany. 
"When furniture is repaired, it frequently 
happens that the old wood cannot be matched, 
and therefore the work presents a patched ap- 
pearance. To prevent this, wash the pieces 
introduced, with soap-lees, or dissolve quick- 
lime in water, and use in the same manner ; 
but be careful not to let either be too strong, 
or it will make the wood too dark ; it is best, 
therefore, to use it rather weak at first, and, 
if not dark enough, repeat the process till the 
wood is .sufficient!}^ darkened. 

2856. Black Walnut Stain. Take 1 
quart water, U ounces washing soda, 2| 
ounces Vandyke brown, i ounce bichromate of 
potassa. Boil for 10 minutes, and apply with 
a brush either in a hot or cold slate. This 
is an excellent stain. {See J^os. 2853 and 
2854.) 

2857. To Improve the Color of any 
Stain. Mix in a bottle 1 ounce of nitric 
acid, i tea-spoonful muriatic acid, i ounce 
grain tin, and 2 ounces rain water. Mix it at 
least 2 days before using, and keep the bottle 
well corked. 

2858. To Stain Musical Instruments 
and Fancy Boxes. Fancy work necessitates 
the employment of brighter colors than those 
used for furniture ; we therefore give the fol- 
lowing receipts for preparing and applying 
those most commonly employed for such pur- 
poses. 

2859. Fine Crimson Stain. Boil 1 
pound good Brazil dust in 3 quarts water for 
an hour; strain it, and add k ounce cochineal; 
boil it again gently for i an hour, and it will 
be fit for use. If required of a more scarlet 
tint, boil i ounce saffron in 1 quart of water 
for an hour, and pass over the work previous 
to the red stain. 

2860. Fine Green Stain. To 3 pints 
strongest vinegar, add 4 ounces best verdigris 
pounded fine, |- ounce sap green, and -^ ounce 
indigo. Distilled vinegar, or verjuice, improves 
the color. 

2861. Purple Stain. To 1 pound good 
chip logwood, put 3 quarts water; boil it well 
for an hour ; then add 4 ounces pearlash, and 
2 ounces pounded indigo. 

2862. Fine Blue Stain. Into 1 pound 
oil of vitriol (sulphuric acid) in a clean glass 
phial, put 4 ounces indigo, and proceed as 
above directed in dyeing purple. 

2863. Brig-ht YeUow Stain, '^ood 



of aloes put into the varnish wiU have the de- 
sired effect. 

2864. Fine Black Stain. As a general 
thing, when black is required in musical in- 
struments, it is produced by japanning; the 
work being well prepared with size and lamp- 
black, apply the black japan (see No. 2322), 
after which, varnish and polish. But as a 
black stain is sometimes required for finger- 
boards, bridges, and flutes, proceed as directed 
in staining (see No. 2850); the wood, how- 
ever, ought to be either pear, apple, or box- 
wood ; the latter is preferable ; and if it be 
rubbed over, when dry, with a rag or flannel 
dipped in hot oil, it will give it a gloss equal 
to ebony. 

2865. To Stain Boxwood Brown* 
Hold the work to the fire, that it may receiver 
a gentle warmth; then take aquafortis, and 
with a feather pass over the work until it 
changes to a fine brown (always keeping it 
near the fire) ; then oil and polish it. 

2866. Cane Staining. By the following- 
simple process, canes and similar sticks may 
be stained a rich brown: Dissolve a few 
grains sulphate of manganese in sufficient 
water to take it up ; moisten the surface of 
the cane with it, and hold it over the flame of 
a spirit lamp close enough to scorch it. By 
care, the whole surface may be brought to a 
uniform rich brown, or beautifully variegated 
by heating some parts more than others; thus 
varying the color from white to the deepest 
black. The color will appear dull at first: 
but, on oihng it with raw linseed oil, and rub- 
bing it with a smooth piece of hard wood, k 
will be beautifully developed. Give the cane 
no other finish, unless it be another oiling some^ 
days after the first. 



V9^rilisll. Tarnishes may be con- 
veniently divided into two kinds, viz.,. 
spirit and oil varnishes. Concentrated alcohol 
is used as the solvent in the former, and fixed 
or volatile oils, Or mixtures of the two, for the- 
latter. The specific gravity of alcohol for the 
purpose of making varnishes should not be 
greater than 0.820 (that is, not below about 
93 per cent). Camphor is often dissolved in 
it to increase its solvent powers. The oil of 
turpentine, which is the essential oil chiefly 
employed, should be pure and colorless. Pale 
drying linseed oil is the fixed oil generally 
used for varnishes, but poppy and nut oil are 
also occasionally employed. Among the sub- 
stances employed in the manufacture of var- 
nishes are turpentine, copal, mastich, lac. 
elemi, sandarach, anime, and amber, to impart 
body and lustre; benzoin to impart scent; 
gamboge, turmeric, saffron, annotto, and 
Socotrine aloes, to give a yellow color ; dra- 
gon's blood to give a red tinge ; asphaltum to 
give a black color and body ; caoutchouc to 
inpart body, toughness, and elasricity. Tar- 
nish constitutes a distinct branch of manufac- 
ture, and many of them can be advantageously 
or safely made only on the large scale on 
premises adapted for the purpose. 
2868. Preparation of Linseed Oil for 



( 



_ Making Oil Varnishes. In the manufacture 

need not be stained yellow, as a small piece i of oil varnishes, one of the most important 



264= 



OIL VABNISSES. 



points is the use of good drying oil. Linseed 
oil for this purpose should be pale, limpid, 
brilliant, scarcely odorous, and mellow and 
sweet to the taste. 100 gallons of such oil 
are put into an iron or copper boiler capable 
of holding 150 gallons, and gradually heated 
to a gentle simmer for 2 hours, to expel mois- 
ture ; the scum is then carefully removed, and 
14 pounds scale litharge, 12 pounds red lead, 
and 8 pounds powdered umber (all carefully 
dried and free from moisture), are gradually 
sprinkled in; the whole is then kept well 
stirred, to prevent the dryers sinking" to the 
bottom, and the boiling is continued at a 
gentle heat, for 3 hours longer; the fire is 
next withdrawn, and, in 24 to 36 hours, the 
scum is carefully removed, and the clear oil 
decanted from the bottom. This forms the 
best boiled or drying oil. 

2869. Clarified Oil for Varnish. When 
boiled oil is used for making varnish, and a 
still further clarifying is deemed advisable, it 
is placed in a copper pan holding from 80 to 
100 gallons, and heat gradually applied till 
the scum rises, after removing which the oil 
is allowed to boil for about 2 hours, when it is 
dosed with calcined magnesia, in the propor- 
tion of an ounce to every 4 gallons of oil, but 
added by degrees and with occasional stirrings. 
This being completed, the oil is again boiled 
briskly for about an hour, and then, the fur- 
nace being draVm, allowed to cool. TVTien 
the temperature is sufficiently reduced, it is 
removed to leaden cisterns, where it is stored 
till fit for use. 

2870. Clarified Linseed Oil for Var- 
nishes. Heat in a copper boiler 50 gallons 
of hnseed oil to 280° Fahr.; add 2i pounds of 
calcined white vitriol, and keep the oil at the 
above temperature for i hour ; then remove 
it from the fire, and in 24 hours decant the 
clear oil, which should stand for a few weeks 
before it is used for varnish. 

2871. Wnks' Refined Linseed Oil. In 
236 gallons oil pour 6 pounds oil of vitriol, 
and stir them together for 3 hom-s ; then add 
6 pounds fullers' earth, well mixed with 14 
pounds hot lime, and stir for 3 hours. Put 
the oil into a copper boiler, with an equal 
quantity of water, and boil for 3 hours ; then 
extinguish the fire, and when the materials 
are cold draw ofi" the water, and let the oil 
stand to settle for a few weeks before using. 

2872. Boiled Oil for Varnishes. Mix 
100 gallons linseed oil and 7 pounds calcined 
white vitriol (sulphate of zinc) in fine powder, 
in a clean copper boiler; heat it to 285° Fahr., 
and keep it at that temperature for at least an 
hour, constantly stirring it ; then allow it to 
cool ; in 24 hours decant the clear portion, 
and in 3 or 4 weeks rack it for use. 

2873. Cautions Respecting the Ma- 
king of Varnish. As heat in many cases is 
necessary to dissolve the gums used in ma- 
king varnish, the best way, when practicable, 
is to use a sand-bath, which is simply placing 
the vessel containing the varnish, in another 
filled with sand and placed on the fire. This 
will generally be sufficient to prevent the 
spirits catching fire ; but to avoid such an ac- 
cident (which not unfrequently happens), it 
will be best to take a vessel sufficiently large 
to prevent any danger of spilling its contents ; 
indeed, the vessel should never be more than 



two-thirds filled. However, a piece of board 
sufficiently large to cover the top of the ves- 
sel should always be at hand in case the spirits 
should take fire; as also a wet wrapper, in 
case it should be spilled, as water itself thrown 
on would only increase the mischief. The 
person who attends the varnish-pot should 
have his hands covered with gloves, and, if 
they are made of leather, and rather damp, it 
will efi'ectually prevent injury. These cau- 
tions should be well observed, or shocking 
personal injury may result from their neglect. 
In the city, it is hardly worth while to make 
varnish, unless in large quantities, as there 
are many stores where it may be had very 
good, and at a fair price ; but in the country, 
where the freight is an object, and you can- 
not depend upon the genuineness of the article, 
it is necessary to be known by the practical 
mechanic how to make it ; when it is avail- 
able, it is best to purchase it. The varnish 
generally sold for varnishing furniture is white 
hard varnish. 



Oil Varnishes. These, the most 
durable and lustrous of varnishes, are 
composed of a mixture of resin, oil, and spirit 
of turpentine. The oils most frequently em- 
ployed are linseed and walnut; the resins 
chiefly used are copal and amber, and some 
other gums. The drying power of the oil hav- 
ing been increased by litharge, red lead, or by 
sulphate of lead, and a judicious selection of 
copal having been made, it is necessary, ac- 
cording to Booth, to bear in mind the following 
facts before proceeding to the manufacture of 
varnish : 1. That varnish is not a solution, 
but an intimate mixture of resin with boiled 
oil and spirit of turpentine. 2. That the 
resin must be completely fused previous to 
the addition of the boiled or prepared oil. 3. 
That the oil must be heated from 250° to 300°. 
4. That the spirit of turpentine must be add- 
ed gradually, and in a thin stream, while the 
mixture of oil and resm is still hot. 5. That 
the varnish be made in dry weather, otherwise 
moisture is absorbed, and its transparency and 
drying quality impaired. Of late years it has 
been practically demonstrated that not only is 
there no necessity for boiling the oil and gum 
after incorporation, but that the produce is 
equally good if the turpentine be added just 
before the mixture becomes too cold to permit 
of a perfect amalgamation. In fact, it is now 
acknowledged that the oil need not be raised 
to a higher temperature than that at which 
the gum employed fuses, and that when the 
two are mixed the lowest possible degree of 
heat which will insure their incorporation, is 
sufficient to secure all the results desired. By 
this method a large quantity of the turpentine 
formerly lost in evaporation is saved, and 
there is, moreover, less risk of fire. The heat- 
ing vessel must be of copper, of a capacity at 
least one- third more gallons than the mixture 
to be introduced into it, with a riveted and 
not a soldered bottom. To promote the ad- 
mixture of the copal with the hot oil, the co- 
pal — carefully selected and of nearly uniform 
fusibility — is separately heated with contin- 
uous stirring over a moderate charcoal fire 
kcTit constantly supplied with fuel,* without 



OIL VARNISHES. 



265 



disturbing the kettle until the completion of 
the mixture with the oil. If the copal is melt- 
ed in the hot oil, the resulting vaniish is more 
colored and less drying. There is, however, 
great care required in fusing the copal by it- 
self; for if the heat is too much prolonged, 
the resin becomes pitchy, and gives an inferior 
varnish. Constant stirring is requisite to pre- 
vent adhesion to the sides and bottom of the 
vessel, and consequent scorching. The pieces 
of copal should be of uniform fusibility ; the 
diflferent varieties, therefore, should not be 
fused together, for that which melts first is 
apt to scorch before the more refractory are 
fused. If it is desired to mix different varie- 
ties, they should be fused separately and then 
mixed in fluid state. ^^VTien the resin is thor- 
oughly melted, the hot oil is to be ladled in 
gradually during constant stuTing. To deter- 
mine when sufficient oil has been added, a 
drop must be now and then taken out and 
cooled upon a glass plate. If, on cooling, it is 
limpid and wax-like, penetrable with the 
nail without cracking, the proportion of oil is 
sufficient ; if, however, it is hard and brittle, 
more oil is required. Some resins absorb 
more oil than others. The spirits of turpen- 
tine should be heated, and added in a thin 
stream to the oil and resin while stiU hot. 
Care must be taken not to add the tm'pentine 
while the mixture is too hot, as too much of 
the turpentine wiU be lost by evaporation; 
but if the mixtm'e gets too cool it becomes 
sticky, the addition of turpentine must be 
stopped, and it must be replaced over the fire 
and heated gradually up to 600°. Limpidity 
is thus restored, and, upon removal from the 
fiire, sufficient turpentine should be added to 
impart the proper consistence ; but this extra 
heating injures the quality of the varnish. 

2875. Conunon Oil Varnish. Resin, 
3 pounds ; drying oil, 5 gallon ; melt to- 
gether, and add, when removed from the fire, 
2 quarts warm oil of turpentine. 

2876. Oil Copal Vamisli. Pale hard 
copal, 2 pounds ; fuse, add hot drying oil, 1 
pint; boil as before directed, and thin with 
oil of turpentine, 3 pints, more or less, as 
found necessary. Yery pale. Dries hard in 
12 to 24 hours. 

2877. Best Pale Carriage Varnish. 
Pale African copal, 8 pounds ; fuse, and add 
clarified linseed oil, 2^ gallons ; boil till very 
stringy, then add dried copperas and litharge, 
of each ^ pound ; boil as before du*ected, thin 
with oil of turpentine, 65 gallons; mix while 
hot with the following varnish, and immedi- 
ately strain the mixtm-e into a covered vessel : 
Gum anime, 8 pounds ; clarified linseed oil, 
2k gallons ; dried sugar of lead and litharge, 
of each i pound ; boil as before, thin with oil 
of turpentine, 5^ gallons, and mix it while 
hot with the last varnish as above directed. 
Dries in 4 hours in summer and 6 in winter. 
Used for the wheels, springs, and carriage 
parts of coaches and other vehicles, and by 
house painters, decorators, &q., who want a 
strong, quick-drying, and dui'able varnish. 

2878. Ordinary Carria^g-e Varnish. 
Sorted gum anime, 8 pounds ; clarified oil, 3 
gallons; litharge, 5 ounces; dried and pow- 
dered sugar of lead and white copperas, of 
each 4 ounces ; boil as last, and thin with oil 
of turpentine, 5j gallons. 



2879. Amber Varnish. Amber, 1 
pound; pale boiled oil, 10 ounces; turpentine. 
1 pint. Render the amber, placed in an iron 
pot, semi-liquid by heat; then add the oil, 
mix, remove it from the fire, and, when cooled 
a little, stir in the turpentine. Or : To the 
amber, melted as above, add 2 ounces of 
shellac, and proceed as before. This varnish 
is rather dark, but remarkably tough. The 
first form is the best. It is used for the same 
purposes as copal varnish, and forms an ex- 
cellent article for covering wood, or any 
other substance not of a white or very pale 
color. It dries well, and is very hard and 
durable. 

2880. Black Amber Varnish. Am- 
ber, 1 pound ; boiled oil, ^ pint ; powdered 
asphaltum, 6 ounces; oil of turpentine, 1 
pint. Melt the amber, as before described, 
then add the asphaltum, previously mixed 
with the cold oil, and afterwards heated very 
hot; mix well, remove the vessel from the 
fire, and, when cooled a little, add the tui-pen- 
tine, also made warm. Each of the above 
two varnishes should be reduced to a proper 
consistence with more turpentine if it be 
required. The last form produces the beauti- 
ful black vaiTiish used by the coachmakers. 
Some manufacturers omit the whole or part 
of the asphaltum, and use the same quantity 
of clear black resin instead, in which case the 
color is brought up by lampblack reduced to 
an impalpable powder, or previously ground 
very fine with a little boiled oil. The varnish 
made in this way lacks, however, that rich- 
ness, brilliancy, and depth of blackness im- 
parted by asphaltum. 

2881. Pale Amber Varnish. Amber, 
pale and transparent, 6 pounds ; fuse, add hot 
clarified linseed oil, 2 gallons; boil till it 
strings strongly, cool a little, and add oil of 
turpentine, 4 gallons. Pale as copal varnish ; 
soon becomes very hard, and is the most 
durable of oil varnishes; but requires time 
before it is fit for polishing. TThen wanted 
to dry and harden quicker, drying oil may be 
substituted for linseed, or dryers may be 
added during the boiling. 

2882. Tough Amber Varnish. Am- 
ber, 1 pound; melt, add Scio turpentine, k 
pound; transparent white resin, 2 ounces; 
hot linseed oil, 1 pint ; and afterwards suffi- 
cient oil of turpentine as above. Yery tough. 

2883. Hard Amber Varnish. Melted 
amber, 4 ounces ; hot boiled oil, 1 quart ; as 
beforai 

2884. Very Pale Amber Varnish. 
Yery pale and transparent amber, 4 ounces ; 
clarified linseed oil and oil of turpentine, of 
each 1 pint; as before. Amber varnish is 
suited for aU purposes where a very hard and 
durable oil vamish is required. The paler 
kind is superior to copal vamish, and is often 
mixed with the latter to increase its hardness 
and durability. 

2885. Vamish for "Waterproof Goods. 
Let I pound of India-rubber, in small pieces, 
soften in i pound of oil of turpentine, then 
add 2 pounds boiled oil, and let the whole 
boil for 2 hours over a slow coal fire. "WTien 
dissolved, add again 6 pounds boiled linseed 
oil and 1 pound litharge, and boil until an 
even liquid is obtained. It is applied warm, 
and forms a waterproof coating. 



^ee 



SPIRIT VARNISHES. 



2886. India-Rubber Oil Varnisli. 

Take 4 ounces India-rubber in fine shavings, 
dissolve in a covered jar by means of a sand- 
bath, in 2 pounds of crude benzole, and then 
mix Tvith 4 pounds hot linseed oil varnish, 
and -J pound oil of turpentine. Dries ttcU. 

2887. India-Rubber Oil Varnisli. 
Cut up 1 pound India-rubber into small pieces 
and diffuse in ^ pound sulphuric ether, vrhich 
is done by digestion in a glass flask on a 
sand-bath. Then add 1 pound pale linseed 
oil varnish^ previously heated, and after 
settling, 1 pound oil of turpentine, also 
heated beforehand. Filter, while yet warm, 
into bottles, ©ries slowly. 

2888. Gutta-Percha Oil Varnisli. 
Clean J pound gutta-percha in warm water 
from adhering impurities, dry well, dissolve 
in 1 pound of rectified resin oil, and add 2 
pounds linseed oil varnish, boiling hot. Yery 
suitable to prevent metals from oxidation. 

2889. Champagnat's India-Rubber 
Varnisli. In a wide-mouthed glass bottle, 
digest 2 ounces India-rubber in. fine shavings, 
with 1 pound oil of turpentine, during 2 days, 
without shaking, then stir up with a wooden 
spatula. Add another pound oil of turpen- 
tine, and digest, with frequent agitation, 
until all is dissolved. Then mix 1| pounds 
of this solution with 2 pounds of very white 
copal oil varnish, and Ik pounds well boiled 
linseed oil ; shake and digest in a sand-bath, 
until they have united in a good varnish. 
For morocco leather. 

2890. Flexible Varnisli. Melt 1 pound 
of resin, and add gradually 5 pound India- 
rubber in very fine shavings, and stir until 
cold. Then heat again, slowly, add 1 pound 
linseed oil varnish, heated, and filter. 

2891. Flexible Varnisli. Dissolve 1 
pound of gum damar, and 5 pound India- 
rubber in very small pieces, in 1 pound oil of 
turpentine, by means of a water-bath. Add 
1 pound hot oil varnish and filter. 

2892. Hair Varnish. Dissolve 1 part 
of cKppings of pigs' bristles, or of horse-hair, 
in 10 parts of drying linseed oil by heat. 
Fibrous materials (cotton^ flax, silk, &c.), 
imbued with the varnish and dried, are used 
as a substitute for hair-cloth. 

2893. Cabinet Varnish. Fuse 7 pounds 
African copal, and pour on it 4 pints hot 
clarified linseed oil ; in 3 or 4 minutes, if it 
feels stringy, take it out of the building, 
where there is no fire near, and when it has 
cooled to ISO'^ mix in 3 gallons oil of turpen- 
tine of the same temperature, or sufficient to 
bring it to a due consistence. 

2894. Bessemer's Varnish for Me- 
tallic Paint. This is made with 8 pounds 
copal, 2-^ gallons drying oil, and 25 gallons 
oil of turpentine. These are made into a 
varnish nearly as directed for Cabinet Tar- 
nish {see No. 2893) ; and afterwards mixed 
with a gallon of slacked lime and left for 3 
days to settle. The clear portion is then 
drawn ofl", and 5 parts of varnish mixed with 
4 parts of bronze powder. 

2895. Mahogany Varnish. Sorted 
gum anime, 8 pounds; clarified oil, 3 gallons; 
litharge and powdered dried sugar of lead, of 
each ^ pound ; boil till it strings well, then 
cool a little, thin with O'*' of turpentine, 62 
gallons, and strain. 



2896. Itahan Varnish. Boil Scio tur- 
pentine till brittle; powder, and dissolve in 
oil of turpentine. Or: Canada balsam and 
clear white resin, of each 6 ounces; oil of 
turpentine, 1 quart, dissolved. Used for prints, 
engravings, &c. 

2897. Varnish for Printers' Ink. To 
every 10 pounds clarified linseed oil add 5 
pounds clear black resin, and ^ pound oil of 
turpentine. It is then ready for mixing with 
lampblack or other coloring matter. A twelfth 
part of Canada balsam is sometimes added for 
the finer parts. 

2898. Varnish for Frames for Hot 
Beds. Mix 4 ounces pulverized white cheese, 

2 ounces slacked lime, and 4 ounces boiled lin- 
seed oil. Mix, and add 4 ounces each whites 
and yolks of eggs, and liquefy the mixture by 
heat. This curious mixture is said to produce 
a pliable and transparent varnish. 

2899. Brunswick Black. Foreign 
asphaltum, 45 pounds ; drying oil, 6 gallons ; 
and litharge, 6 pounds. Boil for 2 hours, then 
add dark gum-amber (fused), 8 pounds ; hot 
linseed oil, 2 gallons. Boil for 2 hours longer, 
or until a little of the mass, when cooled, 
may be rolled into piUs. Then withdraw the 
heat, and afterwards thin down with 25 gal- 
lons oil of turpentine. Used for iron-work, 
&c. 

2900. Black Varnish for Iron- Work. 
Asphaltum, 48 pounds, fuse; add boiled oil, 
10 gallons ; red lead and litharge, of each 7 
pounds ; dried and powdered white copperas^ 

3 pounds. Boil for 2 hours ; then add dark 
gum amber (fused), 8 pounds; hot linseed 
oil, 2 gallons ; boil for two hours, proceeding 
as in the last receipt, thinning down with oil 
of turpentine, 30 gallons. Used for the same 
purposes as Brunswick black. 

2901 . Colored Oil Varnishes. Oil var- 
nishes are colored by grinding with them the 
most transparent colors, as distilled verdigris 
for green, &c. Spirit varnishes are also colored 
with dragon's blood, gamboge, (fee. {See No. 
2867.) 

2902. Varnish for Grates. To 2 
pounds common asphaltum, fused in an iron 
pot, add 1 pint hot boiled linseed oil; mix well 
and boil for some time. "When partially cooled 
add 2 quarts oil of turpentine. If too thick, 
add tm-pentine. Apply with an ordinary paint 
brush. 



Spirit Varnislies. The spirit 
employed for making spirit varnishes 
should not be less than 95 per cent. In pre- 
paring and using them, they should be kept 
at a distance from a candle or other flame. 
Eespecting the gums (resins) employed, it 
may be useful to mention that shellac is ren- 
dered more soluble by being powdered and 
exposed for a long time to the air {see No. 
2906); sandarach gives hardness to varnishes; 
mastich gives a gloss to a solution of other 
gums; benzoin stUl more, but its color is 
objectionable; anime readily dissolves, but 
renders the varnish long in drying ; copal and 
\ amber are scarcely soluble in spirit, but are 
rendered partially so by other gums, and also 
by being previously fused by heat. {See No. 
2867.) Shellac gives a durable varnish, objec- 
tionaijle only on account of its color, which 



SPIRIT VABNISRES. 



267 



may be rendered paler by charcoal. {Beasley.) 
{See No. 1723, 4~c.) In the preparation of 
spirit varnishes, care should be taken to pre- 
vent the evaporation of the alcohol as much 
as possible, and also to preserve the portion 
that evaporates. On the small scale, spirit 
varnishes are best made by maceration in 
close bottles. In order to prevent the agglu- 
tination of the resin, it is often advantageously 
mixed with clear silicious sand, or pounded 
gla3s, by which the surface is much increased, 
and the solvent power of the menstruum pro- 
moted. The tendency of a spirit varnish to 
chill or give a rough surface may be destroyed 
by adding to the varnish a little gum sanda- 
rach, oil of lavender or concentrated ammonia. 

2904. To Dissolve Copal in Spirit. 
Take the copal and expose it in a vessel 
formed like a cullender to the front of a fire, 
and receive the drops of melted gum in a 
basin of cold water ; then dry them well in a 
temperature of about 95° Fahr. By treating 
copal in this way it acquires the property of 
dissolving in alcohol, 

2905. Copal Varnish.. Take 1 ounce 
copal and i an ounce shellac ; powder them 
well, and put them into a bottle or jar con- 
taining 1 quart spirits of wine. Place the 
mixture in a warm place, and shake it occa- 
sionally, until the gums are completely dis- 
solved; and, when strained, the varnish will 
be fit for use. The above is the simplest, and 
"therefore the most usual method of making 
common copal varnish; but it may be pre- 
pared in a variety of ways, where particular 
uses may be required. 

2906. To Dissolve Gum Shellac. 
Everybody who has ever to deal with bleached 
gum shellac knows the difficulties and the 
loss of time attending its solution. To obviate 
this, the gum is broken into small pieces and 
macerated in a stoppered bottle with ether ; 
after swelling up sufficiently, the excess of 
ether is poured off, when it will dissolve quite 
readily in alcohol. {See Xo. 2903.) 

2907. Copal Varnish. Take 3 ounces 
copal, melt by a gentle heat, and drop it into 
water {see No. 2904) ; then dry it and powder 
it fine. Place a bottle containing 1 pint oil 
of turpentine in a water-bath, and add the 
powdered copal to the turpentine in small por- 
tions at a time ; in a few days decant the 
clear. Dries slowly, but is very pale and 
durable, and is used for pictures, &c. In 
making this varnish, it frequently happens 
that the gum will not melt as readily as it 
ought, which, in general, is owing to the 
tirpentine not being sufficiently rectified; 
ouf, when that is good, it will always succeed, 
lo is best also to let the turpentine be exposed 
for some time in the sun, in a corked bottle, 
that the watery particles may be gradually 
dissipated. The bottle should not be stopped 
quite tight. 

2908. Copal Varnish, according to 
Professor Boettger should be made by first dis- 
solving 1 part by weight of camphor, in 12 
parts ether; when the camphor is dissolved, 
4 parts best copal resin, previously reduced 
to an impalpable powder, are added to the 
ethereal camphor solution placed in a well- 
stoppered bottle. As soon as the copal ap- 
pears to be partly dissolved, and has become 
ttwollen, 4 parts strong alcohol, or methylated 



] spirits, and i part oil of turpentine are added, 
j and, after shaking the mixture and letting it 
j stand for a few hours longer, a thoroughly 
1 good copal varnish is obtained. 
I 2909. Common Turpentine Varnish. 
This is merely clear pale resin dissolved in 
oil of turpentine ; usually 5 pounds resin to 7 
pounds of turpentine. 

2910. Crystal Varnish. Picked mas- 
tich, 4 ounces; rectified spirit, 1 pint; anima) 
charcoal, 1 ounce. Digest and filter. 

2911. Mastich Picture Varnish. Yery 
pale aud picked gum mastich, 5 pounds; 
glass pounded as small as barley, and well 
washed and dried, 2^- pounds; rectified tur- 
pentine, 2 gallons; put them into a clean 4 
gallon stone or tin bottle, bung down securely, 
and keep rolling it backwards and forwards 
pretty smartly on a counter or any other solid 
place, for at least 4 hours ; when, if the gum 
is all dissolved, the varnish may be decanted, 
strained through mushn into another bottle, 
and allowed to settle. It should be kept 
for 6 or 9 months before use, as it thereby 
gets both tougher and clearer. Very fine. 

2912. Mastich Varnish. Mastich, 8 
pounds; turpentine, 4 gallons; dissolve by a 
gentle heat, and add pale turpentine varnish, i 
gallon. 

2913. Best Mastich Varnish. Gum 
mastich, 6 ounces ; oil of turpentine 1 quart ; 
dissolve. Mastich varnish is used for pictures, 
&c.; when good, it is tough, hard, brilliant, 
and colorless. 

2914. Varnish for Paintings. Take 
mastich, 6 ounces ; pure turpentine, ^ ounce ; 
camphor, 2 drachms ; spirits of turpentine, 19 
ounces ; add first the camphor to the turpen- 
tine ; the mixture is made in a water-bath ; 
when the solution is effected, add the mastich 
and the spirits of turpentine near the end of 
the operation ; filter through a cotton cloth. 

2915. Tingry's Essence Varnish. 
Mastich in powder, 12 ounces; pure turpen- 
tine, Ik ounces; camphor, 5 ounce; powdered 
glass, 5 ounces ; rect]£.ed oil of turpentine, 1 
quart. 

2916. White Toy Varnish. Tender 
copal, 7i ounces ; camphor, 1 ounce ; alcohol 
of 95 per cent., 1 quart; dissolve, then add 
mastich, 2 ounces; Yenice turpentine, 1 
ounce; dissolve and strain. Yery white, 
drying, and capable of being polished when 
hard. Used for toys. 

2917. White Varnish. Sandarach, 8 
ounces; mastich, 2 ounces; Canada balsam, 4 
ounces; alcohol, 1 quart. Used on paper, 
wood, or linen. 

2918. Best White Hard Varnish. 
Rectified spirits of wine, 1 quart ; gum sanda- 
rach, 10 ounces ; gum mastich, 2 ounces ; gum 
anime, 5 ounce ; dissolve these in a clean can, 
or bottle, in a warm place, frequently shaking 
it. When the gum is dissolved, strain it 
through a lawn sieve, and it is fit for use. 

2919. Mordant, or Transfer Varnish. 
Mastich in tears, 62 ounces ; resin, 12^ ounces; 
pale Yenice turpentine (genuine) and sand- 
arach, of each 25 ounces; alcohol, 5 pints; 
dissolve as before. Used for fixing engraV' 
ings or lithographs on wood, and for gliding, 
silvering, &c. {Sec Xo. 2928.) 

2920. Map Varnish is prepared hy 
pulverizing 1 ounce sandarach, i ounce mas- 



268 



SPIBIT VARNISHES. 



tich, k oTince elemi, dissolving them in ^ ounce 
of Yenice turpentine, and adding to it a solu- 
tion of 4 ounces shellac, and 3 ounces oil of 
lavender, in 12 ounces alcohol. {See No. 
2935.) 

2921. Canada Varnish. Clear balsam 
of Canada, 4 ounces; camphene, 8 ounces; 
warm gently, and shake together till dissolved. 
For maps, drawings, (fee, they are first sized 
over T.ith a solution of isinglass, taking care 
that every part is covered; when dry, the 
varnish is brushed over it. 

2922. Collodion Varnish. The addition 
of 1 part castor oil to 32 parts collodion, makes 
a good varnish ; it dries rapidly and does not 
penetrate the paper. This varnish will do 
very well for coating maps, lists, labels, etc., 
and it will keep for years. If, after a repeat- 
ed coating, white spots should appear, moist- 
en them with ether, and they will vanish in- 
stantly. 

2923. Varnish to Imitate the Chinese. 
Put 4 ounces powdered gum-lac, with a piece 
of camphor about the size of a hazelnut, into 
a strong bottle, with 1 pound good spirits of 
wine. Shake the bottle from time to time, 
and set it over some hot embers to mix for 24 
hours, if it be in winter ; in summer time it 
may be exposed to the sun. Pass the whole 
through a fine cloth, and throw away what 
remains upon it. Let it settle for 24 hours ; 
separate gently the clear part in the upper 
part of the bottle, and put into another phial ; 
the remains will serve for the first layers or 
coatings. 

2924. Varnish for Drawings and 
Lithographs. Take of dextrine, 2 parts; 
alcohol, i part; water, 2 parts. These should 
be prepared previously with 2 or 3 coats of 
thin starch or rice boiled and strained through 
a cloth. (^See ^0.2927.) 

2925. To Purify Dextrine. "Eager 
gives a method for rendering dextrine pure, or 
at least freer from foreign odor and taste. 
For this purpose he dissolves 10 parts of good 
dextrine, with stirring, in 18 of cold distilled 
water, allows the mixture to stand for some 
days, decants and strains it from the sediment. 
The clear liquid is then to be mixed with 
once and a half to twice its volume of alcohol 
fortius (see No. 1439) ; after some hours the 
liquor is separated from the pasty mass, which 
is then once more dissolved in a small quanti- 
ty of water, and spread on glass or porcelain 
to dry at a temperature not exceeding 140° 
Fahr. 

2926. Le Blond's Varnish. Keep 4 
pounds balsam of copaiba warm in a sand or 
water bath, and add 16 ounces copal (previ- 
ously fused and coarsely powdered), by single 
ounces, daily, and stir it frequently. When 
dissolved add a little Chio turpentine. 

2927. De Sylvestre's Dextrine Var- 
nish. Dextrine, 2 parts ; water, 6 parts : 
rectified spirit, 1 part. (See No. 2924.) 

2928. Transfer Varnish. For trans- 
ferring and fixing engravings or lithographs 
on wood, and for gilding, silvering, etc. Dis- 
solve 4 ounces mastich (in tears), and 4 oun- 
ces sandarach, in 1 s pints rectified spirit ; add 
5 pint pure Canada balsam. (See A^o. 2919.) 

2929. To Dissolve Amber. There is 
no difl&culty in dissolving amber in chloroform, 
but people are apt to think they fail, from the 



circumstance that it is only partially soluble. 
Take some broken amber, reduce to a coarse 
powder, and place in a bottle with rather more 
than enough chloroform to cover them well ; 
shake often, and in a few days, by pouring a 
drop or two of the clear liquid on a glass plate, 
a varnish of good body, which gives a strong 
glaze, may be obtained. Or an amber varnish 
may be made as follows : Take of amber, 3 
ounces; benzole, 50 ounces; heat the amber 
in a closed vessel to a temperature of about 
570° Fahr. When it begins to soften and 
swell, emitting white fumes, then dissolve in 
the benzole. 

2930. Amber Varnish for Photo- 
graphs. Dissolve 3 to 4 grains amber in 1 
ounce chloroform. (See No. 2929.) 

2931. Brilliant Amber Spirit Var- 
nish. Fused amber, 4 ounces ; sandarach 
and mastich, of each 4 ounces ; highly rectified 
spirit, 1 quart. Expose to the heat of a sand- 
bath, with occasional agitation, till dissolved. 
(The amber is fused in"a close copper vessel, 
having a funnel-shaped projection, which 
passes through the bottom of the furnace by 
which the vessel is heated.) 

2932. Hare's Colorless Varnish for 
Photographs. Dissolve shellac by heat in 
8 parts of water and 1 of pearlash. Precipi- 
tate by chlorine, and dissolve in rectified 
spirit. (See Nos. 2933 to 2935.) 

2933. Bookbinders' and Colorless 
Varnish. Mr. A. Schmidt gives the follow- 
ing directions for making these and several 
other beautiful varnishes: For 1 pound 
good shellac take 4 ounces crystallized car- 
bonate of soda, and Ik gallons water; put the 
whole in a clean iron or copper vessel of dou- 
ble the capacity, and, under constant stirring, 
bring it to boiling over a slow fire. The shel- 
lac will dissolve, and, if it is intended to make 
colorless French varnish (see No. 2935), the 
solution has to be run through a woolen cloth. 
For brown bookbinders' varnish, or a colorless 
vamish for maps, photographs, etc., the solu- 
tion has to boil for about an hour longer, but 
only simmering, and then to cool very slowly 
without stirring; better let it stand over 
night, and let the fire go out under it. In the 
morning a wax-like substance will be found 
on the surface of the solution, and the other 
impurities of the shellac as a deposit on the 
bottom of the vessel. The solution is like- 
wise to be run through a woolen cloth and 
then to be filtered. (See No. 2934.) To make a 
transparent brown varnish — bookbinders' var- 
nish — this filtered solution has to be precipita- 
ted with diluted sulphuric acid (1 part acid to 
20 parts water), the precipitate collected on a 
coarse muslin cloth, and washed out with cold 
clear water till it runs through without taste. 
(See No. 24. ) Then fill a stone or wooden ves- 
sel with boiling water, and throw the precipi- 
tate in it; it will directly soften and stick to- 
gether ; this half mass has to be kneaded in the 
hands, doubled up, melted, and drawn out till 
it assumes a fine silky lustre, then drawn out 
to the desired thickness in sticks, like candy, 
and it is then ready for solution. To make 
the Bookbinders' Tarnish, dissolve 1 part 
of the precipitate in 21 parts 95 per cent, al- 
cohol. To make the Colorless Tarnish, 
dissolve 1 part of the precipitate in the same 
quantity of alcohol. Add 1^ drachms oil of 



SPIEIT VARNISHES. 



269 



lavender to each pint. The colorless varnish 
will look like Tvhey, but more transparent. 

2934. Filter for Shellac. To make a 
filter for shellac, take a small wooden keg, re- 
move the top and bottom, and fasten to one 
side a piece of muslin ; on the muslin bring 
about 4 inches fine, washed sand, and on top 
of the sand a layer of clean straw; then 
pour the solution "^ into the filter and let it 
run through. Should the first pcntion run 
through be not perfectly clear, like red French 
wine, it has to be brought back to the filter. 
"When nothing more will run through, pour 
some clean water on the filter to wash the re- 
maining solution out. 

2935. French. Transparent Colorless 
Varnish. To make white French transpa- 
rent colorless varnish for maps, the solution 
{see No. 2933) has to be bleached. The 
bleaching fluid is made as follows, and the 
proportions are for 1 pound of shellac : Take 1 
pound good English chloride of lime, dissolve 
it in 14 pounds cold water, triturating the 
lumps well ; let it subside, and decant the clear 
fluid ; add 7 pounds of water to the residue, 
and, when subsided, add the clear liquor to 
the other ; precipitate this liquor with a solu- 
tion of carbonate of soda, let the carbonate of 
lime settle, and decant the clear chloride of 
soda; wash the sediment out with water, and 
add the clear liquid to the former, put it in a 
high stone jar, and give it a rotary motion 
with a wooden stick, pouring in at the same 
time very diluted sulphuric acid, till it as- 
sumes a greenish color and a smell of chlorine 
is perceptible. Then add some of this liquid 
to the solution to be bleached, under constant 
stirring, till all the color is gone. French 
polish will look like milk, Then precipitate 
with dilute sulphuric acid, exactly as the solu- 
tion for bookbinders' varnish, and treat the 
precipitate in the same manner, in hot water. 
{See No. 2933.) All iron must be carefully 
avoided as soon as the chlorine liquor is add- 
ed. Dissolve 1 pint of the above in 3 pints of 
95 per cent, alcohol, and do not add any oil 
of lavender, as in No. 2933. For photographs 
this solution is too strong; 1 part of bleached 
shellac to 6 parts alcohol will answer. For 
maps the solution should not be applied im- 
mediately to the paper, but the latter should 
first receive a coat of boiled and strained 
starch. 

2936. "Wax Varnish, or Milk of 
"Wax. Pure white wax, 1 pound; melt 
with as gentle a heat as possible, and warm 
spirit of wine (90 per cent.), 1 pint; mix per- 
fectly, and pour the liquid out upon a cold 
porphyry slab ; next grind it with a muller to 
a perfectly smooth paste, with the addition 
of more spirit as required; put the paste into 
a marble mortar, make an emulsion with 3 3 
pmts gradually added, and strain through 
muslin. Used as a varnish for paintings ; 
when dry, a hot iron is passed over it, or heat 
is otherwise evenly applied, so as to fuse it, 
and render it transparent : when quite cold it 
is polished with a clean linen cloth. The most 
protective of all varnishes. Many ancient 
paintings owe their freshness at the present 
day to this varnish. 

2937. Wax Varnish for Fiimiture. 
"Wax, 3 ounces ; oil of tm-pentine, 1 quart ; 
dissolve by a gentle heat. Used for furniture, j 



2938. Varnish for Paper Hangings, 
Maps, Prints, &c. Take of genuine pale 
Canada balsam and rectified oil of turpentine, 
equal parts, and mix thoroughly. Give the 
articles 2 coats of size before varnishing. 

2939. Varnish for Card- Work, Bas- 
kets, &c. Take black, red, or any other 
colored sealing-wax, according to fancy ; 
break it into small pieces, and add enough 
rectified or methylated spirit to cover it ; let 
the vessel stand near the fire for 2 days until 
it is quite dissolved. Give the article 2 coats 
of size before varnishing. The size is made 
by dissolving parchment cuttings in boiling 
water. This is a most useful varnish for fret- 
work, card- work, baskets, <fec. 

2940. Water Lac Varnish. Pale 
shellac, 5 oimces; borax, 1 ounce; water, 1 
pint; digest at nearly the boiling point, until 
dissolved ; then strain. Equal to the more 
costly spirit varnish for many purposes ; it is 
an excellent vehicle for water colors, inks, 
(fee. ; when dry it is waterproof. 

2941. Transparent Green Varnish. 
A beautifully transparent green varnish is 
made by taking a small quantity of ''Chinese 
blue," with about twice the amount of finely 
powdered chromate of potash, and stirring 
these in copal varnish thinned with turpen- 
tine. A thorough grinding of this mixture 
must be made for the purpose of intimately 
incorporating the ingredients, as otherwise it 
will not be transparent. A preponderance of 
chromate of potash gives a yellowish shade 
to the green, and a deficiency increases the 
amount of blue. This varnish, thus colored, 
produces a very strikmg efi'ect in japanned 
goods, paper-hangings, etc., and can be made 
very cheaply. 

2942. Aniline Transparent Var- 
nishes. The aniline colors are particularly 
well adapted for the manufacture of transpa- 
rent lacs, which possess great intensity even 
in very thin films, and are hence very suita- 
ble for coloring glass or mica. The process 
recommended by F. Springmuhl is to pre- 
pare separately an alcoholic solution of 
bleached shellac or sandarach, and a concen- 
trated alcoholic solution of the coloring mat- 
ter, which last is added to the lac before using 
it; the glass or mica to be coated being slight 
ly warmed. Colored films of gr^at beauty 
may also be obtained, according to Springmuhl, 
from colored solutions of gun cotton in ether, 
the coloring matter being here dissolved m 
alcohol and ether. The collodion film has its 
elasticity greatly increased by the addition of 
some turpentine oil ; and when applied cold, 
can be removed entire. The colored films 
may now be cut mto any pattern, and again 
attached to transparent objects. 

2943. Aniline Black Varnish. An 
aniline black varnish, of recent Parisian 
production, is the following : Dissolve 6| 
drachms avoirdupois of aniline blue, If 
drachms of fuchsine, and 4^ drachms of 
naphthaline yellow, m 1 quart alcohol. The 
whole is dissolved by agitation in less than 12 
hours. One application renders an object 
ebony black ; the varaish can be filtered, and 
will never deposit afterwards. 

2944. Transparent Varnish for 
Prints and Pictures. Dilute i pound 
Venice turpentine with a gill, or thereabouts, 



270 



SPIRIT TABNISHES, 



of spirits of wine. If too tliick, a little more 
of the latter ; if not enough, a little more of 
the former ; so that it is brought to the con- 
sistence of milk. Lay 1 coat of this on the 
right side of the print, and, when dry, it will 
shine like glass. If it is not satisfactory^ lay 
on another coat. 

2945. To Make the Design of a 
Print Appear in Gold. After having 
laid on both sides of the print one coat of the 
varaish described in !N"o. 2944, in order to 
make it transparent, let it dry a little while ; 
then, before it is quite dry, lay some gold in 
leaves on the wrong side of the print, pressing 
it gently on with a cotton pad. By these 
means, all parts where these leaves have been 
laid will appear like massive gold on the 
right side. When this is all thoroughly dry, 
lay on the right side of it one coat of the 
varnish described above, and it will then be 
as good as any crown glass. A pasteboard 
may be put behind the print, to support it 
better in its frame. 

2946. Clear Gutta-Percha Solution. 
Cut gutta-percha into thin strips and put it in 
a glass bottle, and add as much chloroform as 
makes a thick paste. This paste is then 
placed in very hot water, and kneaded with 
the fingers. After considerable manipulation 
the gutta-percha loses much of its color, and 
if this process is repeated, becomes very near- 
ly colorless, having only a pale straw tint. 
A chloroform solution may then be made of 
any strength, which is useful for many pur- 
poses — when thin, as a substitute for court 
plaster, and when thick, as a stopping for 
decayed teeth, 

2947. Solvents for India-Rubber 
and Gutta-Percha to Make Flexible 
Varnish. Eubber does not dissolve easily 
enough to give a varnish by simply placing 
it in a bottle with the solvent. Sulphuric 
ether is one of its regular solvents, but then 
it must be pure rectified ether, and not the 
mixture of ether and alcohol which is sold for 
ether in many drug stores. It also must be 
pure rubber, and not the sulphur- vulcanized 
article. The pure rubber must be cut into 
small pieces, soaked in the ether in a warm 
place for about 24 hours until they are swollen 
up, and then it must be kneaded in a mortar. 
In such a way rubber varnishes may be made 
even with common benzine. "V7hen treated 
with hot benzole (from coal tar, not benzine 
from petroleum), it swells to 30 times its 
former bulk ; and if then triturated with a 
pestle, and pressed through a sieve, it afibrds 
a homogeneous varnish, which being applied 
by a flat edge of metal or wood to cloth, pre- 
pares it for forming waterproof cloth. Chloro- 
form and the bisulphuret of carbon dissolve 
India-rubber and gutta-percha m the cold. 
Turpentine disintegrates and dissolves India- 
rubber and gutta-peicha when hot. The 
fixed oils also readily dissolve them with the 
aid of heat. "When India-rubber remains 
sticky after working it, it is a proof that the 
temperature was too high, or that too much 
turpentine was used in the solutions or var- 
nishes ; turpentine rubber varnish has natu- 
rally a tendency to dry sticky ; benzole or the 
fixed oils are better. {See No. 2248.) 

2948. Flexible Varnish for Balloons, 
etc. Digest cold, 1| ounces India-rubber, 



cut small, in 1 pint of either chloroform, snl- 
phuric ether (washed), or bisulphuret of car- 
bon. This dries as soon as laid on. 

2949. India-Rubber Varnish. Digest 
in a closed vessel, at a gentle heat, 1 ounce 
India-rubber shavings in 1 pint of rectified 
mineral naphtha, or benzole; then strain it. 
This dries very badly, and never gets perfect- 
ly hard. 

2950. Tough India-Rubber Varnish. 
Dissolve by heat 1 ounce India-rubber in 1 
quart of drying oil. This dries very tough in 
about 48 hours. 

2951. Flexible Varnish. Boil 3 ounces 
dried white copperas, 3 ounces sugar of lead, 
and 8 ounces litharge, in 1 gallon linseed oil ; 
stir constantly until it strings well, then cool 
slowly and decant the clear portion. If too 
thick, thin with quick-drying linseed oil. 

2952. Colpin's India-Rubber Varnish. 
India-rubber in small pieces, washed and 
dried, are fused for 3 hours in a close vessel, 
on a gradually heated sand-bath. On remov- 
ing from the sand-bath, open the vessel and 
stir for 10 minutes, then close again, and re- 
peat the fusion on the following day, until 
small globules appear on the surface."^ Then 
strain through a wire sieve. 

2953. Metallic Varnish, or Var- 
nisher's Amalg-am. Melt 4 ounces grain tin 
{see Index) with 1 ounce bismuth ; add 1 
ounce quicksilver, and stir till cold; then grind 
it very fine with white of egg or varnish, and 
apply this metallic varnish to the figure to be 
coated. 

2954. Varnish for Gun Barrels. The 
varnish used for gun barrels, after they are 
bronzed, is made by dissolving 1 ounce of 
shellac and 1 or 2 drachms of dragon's blood 
in a quart of alcohol, and filtering the solu- 
tion through blotting paper into a bottle, 
which must be kept closely corked. This 
varnish, being laid on the barrel, and become 
perfectly dry, must be rubbed with a bur- 
nisher to render it smooth and glossy. 

2955. Submarine Varnish. Kesin, 2 
parts; galipot, 2 parts ; essence of turpentine, 
40 parts. Melt the above, and add, in the 
form of very fine powder, and well mixed, 
sulphide of copper, 18 parts ; regulus of anti- 
mony, 2 parts. This varnish is said to pro- 
tect wood from worms, and to prevent the ad- 
herence of barnacles and parasites to the bot- 
tom of ships. It also preserves iron from ox- 
idation. 

2956. Varnish for Iron. The following 
is a method given by M. Weiszkopf, of pro- 
ducing upon iron a durable black shining var- 
nish: Take oil of turpentine, add to it, drop 
by drop, and while stirring, strong sulphuric 
acid, until a syrupy precipitate is quite formed, 
and no more of it is produced on further ad- 
dition of a drop of acid. The liquid is now 
repeatedly washed away with water, every 
time renewed after a good stirring, until the 
water does not exhibit any more acid reaction 
on being tested with blue litmus paper. The 
precipitate is next brought upon a cloth filter, 
and, after all the water has run ofi", the syrupy 
mass is fit for use. This thickish deposit is 
painted over the iron with a brush ; if it hap- 
pens to be too stifi", it is previously diluted 
with some oil of tui-pentine. Immediately 
after the iron has been so painted, the paint 



SPIRIT VARNISHES. 



271 



is burnt in by a gentle heat, and, after cool- 
ing, the black surface is rubbed over with a 
piece of woolen stuff dipped iu, and moistened 
with linseed oil. According to "Weiszkopf, 
this varnish is not a simple covering of the 
surface, but it is chemically combined with 
the metal, and does not, therefore, wear or 
peel off the iron, as is the case with other 
paints and varnishes. 

2957. Brilliant French Varnish, for 
Boots and Shoes. Take f of a pint spirits 
of wine ; 5 pints white wine ; i pound pow- 
dered gum Senegal ; 6 ounces loaf sugar ; 2 
ounces powdered galls; 4 ounces green cop- 
peras. Dissolve the sugar and gum in the 
wine. "WTien dissolved, strain; then put it 
on a slow fire, being careful not to let it boil. 
In this state put in the galls, copperas, and 
the alcohol, stirring it well for five minutes. 
Then remove from the fire, and, when nearly 
cool, strain through flannel, and bottle for 
use. It is applied with a pencil brush. If 
not sufficiently black, a little sulphate of iron, 
and half a pint of a strong decoction of log- 
wood, may be added, with ^q ounce pearl- 
ash. 

2958. Varnish for Fastening the 
Leather on Top B.ollers in Factories. 
Dissolve 2f ounces of gum-arabic iu water 
and a like amount of isinglass dissolved in 
brandy, and it is fit for use. 

2959. Varnish for Engraving* on 
Glass. "VV^ax, 1 ouuce; mastich, k ounce; as- 
phaltum, i ounce: turpentine, k drachm. 

2960. Etching Varnishes. White 
was, 2 ounces ; asphaltum, 2 ounces. ■ Melt 
the wax in a clean pipkin, add the asphaltum 
in powder, and boil to a proper consistence. 
Pour it into warm water, and form it into 
balls, which must be kneaded, and put into 
taffeta for use. Or: white wax, 2 ounces; Bur- 
gundy pitch, 5 ounce; black pitch, ^ ouuce. 
Melt together, and add by degrees 2 ounces 
powdered asphaltum, and boil it till a drop 
cooled on a plate becomes brittle. 

2981. Etching Fluid for Copper. 
Aquafortis, 2 ounces ; water, 5 ounces. Mix. 

2962. Callot's Eau Forte for Fine 
Touches. Dissolve 4 parts each of verdi- 
gris, alum, sea salt, and sal ammoniac, in 8 
parts vinegar ; add 16 parts water, boil for a 
minute, and let it cool. 

2963. Etching Fluid for Steel. Io- 
dine, 1 ounce ; iron fihngs, \ drachm ; water, 
4 ounces. Digest till the iron is dissolved. 
Or: pyroligueous acid, 4 parts by measure; 
alcohol, 1 part. Mix, and add 1 part double 
aquafortis (specific gravity 1.28). Apply it 
from 14 to 15 minutes. 

2964. To Make Colored Prints Re- 
semble Oil Paintings. Take of Canada 
balsam, 1 ounce ; spirit of turpentine, 2 oun- 
ces ; mix them together. Before this com- 
position is applied, the drawing or print 
should be sized with a solution of isinglass in 
water, and, when dry, the varnish should be 
applied with a camel's-hair brush. 

2965. To Varnish Drawings, or any- 
Kind of Paper or Card Work. Dissolve 
1 ouuce best isinglass in about 1 pint water, 
by simmering it over the fire ; strain it 
through fine muslin, and keep it for use. Try 
the size on a piece of paper moderately warm. 
If it glistens, it is too thick, and requires more 



water; if it soaks into the paper, it is too 
thin, and needs more isinglass ; it should 
merely dull the surface. Then give the 
drawing 2 or 3 coats, letting it dry between 
each, b'ciug careful (particularly iu the first 
coatj to bear very lightly on the brush 
(which should be a flat camel's-hair), from 
which the size should flow freely ; otherwise, 
the drawing may be damaged. Then take the 
best mastich vaniish, and with it give at least 

3 coats. This is the method used by many 
eminent artists, and is found superior to any 
that has been tried. 

2966. Varnish for Shoes. Put | 
pound gum shellac, broken up in small pieces, 
into a quart bottle or jug, cover it with 
alcohol, cork it tight, and put it on a shelf in 
a warm place ; shake it well several times a 
day, then add a piece of camphor as large as 
a hen's egg, shake it well, and in a few hours 
shake it a"gain and add 1 ounce lampblack. 
If the alcohol is good it will all be dissolved in 
2 days ; then shake and use. If it gets too 
thick, add alcohol, pour out 2 or 3 tea-spoon- 
fnls in a saucer, and apply it with a small 
paint brush. If the materials are all good it 
will dry in about 5 minutes, giving a gloss 
equal to patent leather, and will be removed 
only by wearing it off. The advantage of 
this preparation over others is, it does not 
strike into the leather and make it hard, but 
remains on the surface, and yet excludes the 
water almost perfectly. The same prepara- 
tion is admirable for harness, and does not 
soil when touched, as is usually the case with 
lampblack preparations. 

2967. Varnish for Harness. Take 
95 per cent, alcohol, 1 gallon; white j)ine 
turpentine, 1^ pounds; gum shellac, 1§ 
pounds; Yenice turpentine, 1 gill. Let these 
stand in a jug in the sun or by a stove until 
the gums are dissolved, then add sweet oil, 1 
gill; and lampblack, 2 ounces; rub the lamp- 
black first with a little of the varnish. This 
vamish is better than the old style, from the 
fact that its polish is as good, and it does not 
crack when the harness is twisted or knocked 
about. 

2968. Flexible Japan Black for 
Leather. Burnt umber, 8 ounces; true 
asphaltum, 3 or 4 ounces ; boiled linseed oil, 
1 gallon; grind the umber with a little of the 
oil ; add it to the asphaltum, previously dis- 
solved in a small quantity of the oil by heat ; 
mix, add the remainder of the oil ; boil, cool, 
and thin with a sufficient quantity of oil of 
turpentine. 

2969. Inflexible Japan Black for 
Leather. Shellac, 1 ounce ; wood naphtha, 

4 ounces ; lampblack to color; dissolve, 
2970. Varnish or Enamel for Coating 

the Insides of Casks. A new application 
of charcoal has recently been made in Eng- 
land for the manufacture of a permanent 
enamel, or varnish for coating the insides of 
casks. The charcoal, which is made from the 
wood of Salix Alba (white willow), is reduced 
to a very fine powder, and mixed with proper 
proportions of shellac and methylated spirit. 
When ready for use it is laid on with a brush, 
and the inside of the cask is fired, so as to 
remove the spirit and leave only the lining of 
charcoal and shellac ; it is then coated again 
and fired a second time, after which it is 



272 



VABNISRINa 



allowed to stand a short time before being 
used. Tbis composition is said to form a 
perfect enamel; and, while it prevents any 
chance of leakage, it preserves the casks in an 
extraordinary manner. It answers admirably 
for beer and acids, and is largely adopted by 
some of our principal brewers. 



Varnishing. The art of applying 
varnishes to various surfaces. This 
requires experience and care, both in the 
selection of appropriate varnishes, and in the 
manner of applying them. 

2972. To Finish Walnut Wood for 
Varnishing'. Mix, with good whiting, such 
colors as will produce as near as possible the 
color of the wood to be filled. This mixture 
to be dry. Then give the wood a good coat 
of oil, and sprinkle the mixture over the work 
imtil it is pretty well covered ; then, with a 
soft rag or other soft substance, rub this in 
well. TVipe off all superfluous material. Let 
dry thoroughly, and varnish. This mode is 
far superior to sizing. 

2973. Finishing Wahiut. For filling 
walnut wood, there are many compounds in 
use, several of them under patents; that 
which discolors the wood the least, and at the 
same time produces a fine finish, is the most 
simple of them all, being nothing but fine rye 
flour mixed with boiled oil, Japan and turpen- 
tine, ground fine in a paint mill, and slightly 
colored with burnt umber. 

2974. To Varnish Wahiut Furniture. 
In dressing over old furniture, the first thing 
to be done is to wash it over with lime, or 
soda and water, to remove all effects of grease 
from sweaty hands, which will prevent var- 
nish from flowing freely or hardening well. 
If the work requires refilling, rye flour, wheat 
flom-, corn starch, or Paris white, ground fijie 
in oil and turpentine, will do ; but 1 or 2 coats 
of shellac should be laid on and rubbed 
smooth before applying the varnish. Work 
finished in oil, without varnish, should be 
fiUed with a harder substance than starch. 
Some use white wax reduced in turpentine ; 
but what is better is a compound of equal 
parts, by weight, of whiting, plaster of Paris, 
pumice stone, and litharge, to which may be 
added a little French yellow, asphaltum, van- 
dyke brown, and terra di Sienna. Mix with 
1 part Japan, 2 of boiled oil, and 3 of turpen- 
tine. Grind fine in a mill. Lay the filling 
on with a brush, rub it in well, let it set 20 
minutes, then rub off clean. Let it harden 2 
or 3 days, then rub smooth, and, if required, 
repeat the process. TThen the filling is satis- 
factory, finish with linseed oil, put on with a 
brush ; wipe off, and rub to a polish with fine 
cotton ; finish with a silk handkerchief, or 
any fine fabric. When the furniture is 
cleaned and filled, proceed as directed in the 
next receipt. 

2975. To Varnish Furniture. THien 
the work is quite clean, fiH up all knots or 
blemishes with cement of the same color. 
See that the brush is clean, and free from 
loose hairs ; then dip it in the varnish, stroke 
it along the wire raised across the top of the 
varnish pot, and give the work a thin and 



regular coat. This must be done as quickly 
as possible ; and yet not quickly enough to 
cause the varnish to foam or bubble as it 
leaves the brush, always taking care not to 
pass the brush twice over the same place, if it 
can possibly be avoided. Let it stand to dry in 
a moderately warm place, that the varnish 
may not chill. Tarnish must always be ap- 
plied in a moderately warm room, where the 
air is dry and free from dust ; and care must 
be taken never to apply a second coat until 
the former one has become quite dry. It re- 
quires practice to find out how much varnish 
to take in the brush. Enough must be left 
on an upright surface to ensure a perfect 
coating; but too much will settle downwards 
before it sets and make unsightly ridges as it 
dries. On a horizontal surface, a trifle more 
varnish can be applied than on an upright 
one, but not much more ; as a too thick coat- 
ing, even if it cannot run, will dry neither 
hard nor smooth. After giving the work 
about 6 or 7 coats, let it get quite hard 
(which you will prove by pressing your 
knuckles oni^, ; if it leave a mark, it is not 
hard enough) ; then, with the first three 
fingers of the hand, rub the varnish until it 
chafes, and proceed over that part of the work 
you mean to polish, in order to take out all 
the streaks or partial lumps made by the 
brush; then give it another coat, and let it 
stand a day or two to harden. The best 
vessel for holding varnish is sold at color 
shops, called a varnish pan. It is constructed 
of tin, with a false bottom ; the interval be- 
tween the two bottoms is filled with sand, 
which, being heated over the fire, keeps the 
varnish fluid, and it flows more readily from 
the brush. There is a tin handle to it, and 
the false bottom slopes from one end to the 
other, which causes the varnish to run to one 
end. It has also a wire fixed across the top, 
to wipe the brush against. 

2976. To Pohsh Varnished Surfaces. 
To give the highest degree of lustre to varnish 
after it is laid on, as well as to remove the 
marks of the brush, it undergoes the operation 
of polishing. This is performed by first rub- 
bing it with very finely powdered pumice 
stone and water ; afterwards, patiently, with 
an oiled rag and Tripoli until the required 
polish is produced. The surface is then 
cleaned off with soft linen cloths, cleared of 
all greasiness with powdered starch, and then 
rubbed bright with the palm of the hand. 

2977. To Keep Brushes in Order. 
The brushes used for varnishing are either 
flat in tin, or round, tied firm to the handle, 
and made either of cameFs-hair or very fine 
bristles. Oil varnishes are applied with 
brushes of fine bristles ; lac varnishes are 
flowed on with camel's-hair brushes. It is 
necessary to be very careful in cleaning them 
after being used ; for, if laid by with the var- 
nish in them, they are soon spoiled. There- 
fore, after using, wash them well in spirits of 
wine or turpentine, according to the nature of 
the varnish ; after which they may be washed 
out with hot water and soap, when they will 
be as good as new, and last a great while 
with care. The spirits that are used for 
cleaning may be used to mix with varnish for 
the more common pm-poses, or the brushes 
may be cleaned merely with boiling water 



rOLISRIXG 



2rrs 



containing a little washing soda, and strong 
yellow soap. 
2978. To Restore Furniture. An 

experienced cabinet-maker informs ns that 
the best preparation for cleaning picture 
frames and restoring furniture, especially that 
somewhat marred or scratched, is a mixture 
of three parts of linseed oil and one part 
spirits of turpentine. It not only covers the 
disfigured surface, but restores wood to its 
original color, and leaves a lustre upon the 
surface. Put on with a woolen cloth, and 
when dry, rub with woolen. 



Polishing. The beauty of cabinet- 
work depends upon the care with 
which it is finished. Some clean off with 
scraping and rubbing with glass paper. This 
should be done in all cases; but it is not 
enough, particularly where the grain is at 
all soft. A good glass-paper also is essen- 
tial. {See Ifo. 1933.) A polish should then 
be added. But, unless the varnish for cab- 
inet-work be very clear and bright, it will 
give a dingy shade to all light-colored woods. 
This should, therefore, be a previous care. 
Again, some workmen polish with rotten 
stone, others with putty-powder, and others 
with common whiting and water ; but Tripoli 
will be found to answer the best. 

2980. To Polish Varnisli is certainly a 
tedious process, and considered by many as a 
matter of diflB.culty. Put 2 ounces powdered 
Tripoli into an earthen pot or basin, with 
water sufficient to cover it ; then, with a piece 
of fine flannel four times doubled, laid over a 
piece of cork rubber, proceed to polish the 
varnish, always wetting it well with the 
Tripoli and water. It will be known when the 
process is complete by wiping a part of the 
work with a sponge, and observing whether 
there is a fair and even gloss. Clean off with 
a bit of mutton-suet and fine flour. Be care- 
ful not to rub the work too hard, or longer 
than is necessary to make the face perfectly 
smooth and even, 

2981. The French Method of PoUsh- 
ingf. With a piece of fine pumice-stone, and 
water, pass regularly over the work with the 
grain until the rising of the grain is down ; 
then, with powdered Tripoli and boiled lin- 
seed oil, polish the work to a bright face. 
This will be a very superior polish, but it re- 
quires considerable time. 

2982. To Polish Brass Ornaments 
Inlaid in Wood. The brass-work must 
first be filed very even with a smooth file; 
then, having mixed some very finely pow- 
dered Tripoli with linseed oil, polish the work 
with a rubber made from a piece of old hat or 
felt, as you would polish varnish, until the 
desired effect is produced. If the work be 
ebony, or black rosewood, take some elder- 
coal, "powdered very fine, and apply it dry 
after you have done with the Tripoli. It will 
increase the beauty of the polish. 

2983. To Clean Soft Mahogany or 
other Porous "Wood. After scraping and 
sand-papering in the usual manner, take a 
sponge and well wet the surface, to raise the 
grain ; then, with a piece of fine pumice- 



stone, free from stony particles, and cut the 
way of the fibres, rub the wood in the direc- 
tion of the grain, keeping it moist with water. 
Let the work dry; then wet it again, and 
the grain will be much smoother, and will not 
raise so much. Eepeat the process, and the 
surface will become perfectly smooth, and the 
texture of the wood much hardened. If this 
does not succeed to satisfaction, the surface 
may be improved by using the pumice-stone 
with cold-drawn linseed oil, proceeding in 
the same manner as with water. This will be 
found to give a most beautiful as well as a 
durable face to the work, which may then bo 
polished or varnished. 

2984. To Clean and Finish Mahog- 
any Work. Scrape and sand-paper the work 
as smooth as possible; go over every part with 
a brush dipped in furniture oil, and let it re- 
main all night; have ready the powder of the 
finest red brick, which tie up in a cotton 
stocking, and sift equally over the work the 
next morning, and, with a leaden or iron 
weight in a piece of carpet, rub it well the 
way of the grain, backward and forward, till 
it has a good gloss. If not sufficient, or if the 
grain appears at all rough, repeat the pro- 
cess. Be careful not to put too much of the 
brick- dust, as it should not be rubbed dry, 
but rather as a paste upon the cloth. When 
the surface is perfectly smooth, clean it off 
with a rubber of carpet and fine mahogany 
saw-dust. This process will give a good 
gloss, and make a surface that will improve 
by wear. 

2985. To Clean and Polish Old Fur- 
niture. Take a quart of stale beer or vine- 
gar, put a handful of common salt and a 
table-spoonful of muriatic acid into it, and 
boil it for 15 minutes ; it may be kept in a 
bottle, and warmed when wanted for use. 
Having previously washed the furniture with 
soft hot water, to get the dirt off, wash it care- 
fully with the above mixture; then polish, 
according to the directions, with any of the 
foregoing polishes. 

2986. Mixture for Cleaning- Furni- 
ture. Cold-di-awn linseed oil, 1 quart; spirit 
of wine, and vinegar, 5 pint each; butter 
(terchloride) of antimony, 2 ounces ; spirit of 
turpentine, k pint. This mixture requires to 
be well shaken before it is used. A little of 
it is then to be poured upon a rubber, which 
must be well applied to the surface of the fur- 
niture ; several applications will be necessary 
for new furniture, or for such as had previous- 
ly been French polished or rubbed with bees' 
wax. 

2987. Furniture Polish. Dissolve 4 
ounces best shellac in 2 pints 95 per cent, al- 
cohol ; add to this 2 pints linseed oil, and 1 
pint spirits of turpentine; when mixed, add 
4 ouuces sulphuric ether, and 4 ounces am- 
monia water; mix thoroughly. Shake when 
used, and apply with a sponge lightly. This 
is an excellent article, especially where the 
varnish has become old and tarnished. 

2988. Polishing Paste. Take 3 ounces 
white wax, h ounce Castile soap, 1 gill tur- 
pentine. Shave the wax and soap very fino 
and put the wax to the turpentine; let it 
stand 24 hours; then boil the soap in 1 gill 
water, and add to the wax and turpentine. 
This has been hisrhlv recommended. 



274: 



FliEXCH POLISHINa 



2989. Furnitiire Polish.. Bees' wax, 5 
pound ; alkanet root, i ounce ; melt together 
in a pipkin until the former is well colored. 
Then add linseed oil, and spirits of turpentine, 
of each ^ gill; strain through a piece of coarse 
muslin. 

2990. FumitTire Paste. Turpentine, 1 
pint ; alkanet root, ^ ounce ; digest until suf- 
ficiently colored, then add bees' wax, scraped 
small, 4 ounces ; put the vessel into hot wa- 
ter and stir until dissolved. If wanted pale, 
the alkanet may be omitted, 

2991. Composition for Soft or Light 
Mahogany. Boil together cold- drawn lin- 
seed oil, and as much alkanet root as it will 
cover, and to every pint of oil add 1 ounce of 
the best rose pink. "When all the color is ex- 
tracted, strain it off, and to every pint add i 
gill spirits of turpentiae. This will be a very 
superior composition for soft and light ma- 
hogany. 

2992. To Wax Furniture. In waxing, 
it is of great importance to make the coating 
as thin as possible, in order that the veins of 
the wood may be distinctly seen. The follow- 
ing preparation is the best for performing this 
operation: Put 2 ounces white and yellow 
w'ax over a moderate fire, in a very clean ves- 
sel, and, when it is quite melted, add 4 ounces 
best spirits of turpentine. Stir the whole 
until it is entirely cool, and you will have a 
pomade fit for waxing furniture, which must 
t)e rubbed over it according to the usual 
method. The oil soon penetrates the pores of 
the wood, brings out the color of it, causes 
the wax to adhere better, and produces a lustre 
equal to that of varnish, without being subject 
to any of its inconveniences. The polish may 
be renewed at any time by rubbiag it with a 
piece of fine cork. 



French Polishing. The 
method of varnishing furniture by means 
of rubbing it on the surface of the wood, is of 
comparatively modern date. To put on a 
hard face, which shall not be so liable to 
scratch as varnish, and yet appear equally 
fine, the French polish was introduced. Below 
we give a full direction of the process, and 
also the various preparations of the different 
compositions necessary. 

2994. To French Polish. The varnish 
being prepared (shellac), the article to be 
polished being finished off as smoothly as 
possible with glass paper, and the rubber 
being made as directed below, proceed to the 
operation as follows : — The varnish, in a nar- 
row-necked bottle, is to be applied to the 
middle of the flat face of the rubber, by laying 
the rubber on the mouth of the bottle and 
shaking up the varnish once, as by this means 
the rubber will imbibe the proper quantity to 
varnish a considerable extent of surface. The 
rubber is then to be enclosed in a soft linen 
cloth, doubled, the rest of the cloth being 
gathered up at the back of the rubber to form 
a handle. Moisten the face of the linen with 
a little raw linseed oil, applied with the finger 
to the middle of it. Place the work opposite 
the light, pass the rubber quickly and lightly 
■•)ver its surface uniformly in small circular 



strokes, until the varnish becomes dry, or 
nearly so ; again charge the rubber as before 
with varnish (omitting the oil), and repeat 
the rubbing, until three coats are laid on, 
when a little oil may be applied to the rubber, 
and two coats more given to it. Proceed in 
this way until the varnish has acquired some 
thickness ; then wet the inside of the linen 
cloth, before applying the varnish, with alco- 
hol, or wood naphtha, and rub quickly, lightly, 
and uniformly, the whole surface. Lastly, 
wet the linen cloth with a little oil and 
alcohol without varnish^ and rub as before till 
dry. Each coat is to be rubbed until the rag 
appears dry ; and too much varnish must not 
be put on the rag at a time. Be also very 
particiilar in letting the rags be very clean 
and soft, as the polish depends, in a great 
measure, on the care taken in keepiug it 
clean and free from dust during the operation. 
If the work be porous, or the grain coarse, it 
will be necessary to give it a coat of clear size 
previous to commencing with the polish ; and, 
when dry, gently go over it with very fine 
glass paper. The size will fill up the pores, 
and prevent the waste of the polish, by being 
absorbed into the wood, and be also a saving 
of considerable time in the operation. 

2995. To Make a French Polish 
Rubber. Eoll up a strip of thick woolen 
cloth which has been torn off, so as to form a 
soft elastic edge. It should form-a coU, from 
1 to 3 mches in diameter, according to th« 
size of the work. This rubber is to be secure- 
ly bound with thread, to prevent it from un- 
coiling when it is used. 

2996. Best French Polish. Shellac, 
3 parts; gum mastich, 1 part; gum sandarach, 
1 part ; spirits of wine, 40 parts ; the mastich 
and sandarach must first be dissolved in the 
spirits of wine, and then the sheUac ; the pro- 
cess may be performed by putting them into 
a bottle loosely corked, and placing it in a 
vessel of water heated to a Little below 173'^ 
Fahr., or the boiling point of spirits of wine, 
unto, the solution be effected ; the clear solu- 
tion may be poured off mto another bottle for 
use. Yarious receipts for the French polish 
have been published, in which mgredients are 
inserted that are insoluble in spirits of wine, 
and therefore useless ; and others contain m- 
gredients that are soluble in water, so as to 
render the mixture more easily injured. 

2997. Common French Polish. A 
solution of shellac in wood naphtha, (pyrox- 
ilic spirit). {See No. 2999.) 

2998. Mastich French Polish. Pale 
shellac, 3 pounds ; mastich, 6 ounces ; 90 per 
cent alcohol, 3 quarts. {See next receipt.) 

2999. Sandarach French Polish. 
Shellac, 2 pounds; mastich and sandarach 
(both in powder), of each 1 ounce; copal var- 
nish, 12 ounces; alcohol, 1 gallon. All tho 
above are made in the cold by frequently stir- 
ring or shaking the ingredients together in a 
well-closed bottle or other vessel. French 
polish is used without filtering, 

3000. True French Polish. To 1 pint 
spu'its of wine add ^ ounce each gum copal 
and sandarach, and 1 ounce shellac. Let 
the gums be well bruised, and sifted through 
a piece of muslin. Put the spirits and the 
gums together in a vessel that can be closely 
corked ; place them near a warm stove, and 



rO EXAM EL WOODWORK. 



2rr^ 



frequently shake th»m. lu 2 or 3 days they 
will be dissolved. Strain the mixture through 
a piece of muslin, and keep it tight corked for 
use. 

3001. French Polish. To 1 pint spirits 
of wine add 5 ounce gum shellac, the same 
quantity gum lac, and Jounce gum sandarach; 
put these ingredients into a stone bottle near 
a fire, frequently shaking it ; when the vari- 
ous gums are dissolved it is fit for use. 

3002. French Polish. Take 2 ounces 
wood naphtha, 5 ounce best shellac, 1 drachm 
gum benzoin; crush the gums, mix them with 
the naphtha in a bottle; shake them frequent- 
ly till dissolved; it is then ready for use. This 
is the clear polish. Take a little cotton wool, 
apply a little of the polish to it, cover it 
tightly with a linen rag, to which apply a 
drop of linseed oil, to prevent it from sticking 
to the wood ; use your rubber gently, polish- 
ing from a centre in a circular manner ; finish 
with a drop of spirits of wine on a clean rub- 
ber, which will extract the oil. 

3003. To Stain or Color French Pol- 
ish. Wood may be stained or grained any 
color or design, by mixing it with the polish, 
or dipping the rubber in the color (finely 
powdered), at the time you apply the polish. 
{See Xo. 3002.) To produce a red, dip the 
cotton into dragon's blood (finely powdered), 
immediately applying the polish ; then cover 
with the linen, and polish. For yellow, use 
the best chrome yellow. For blue, ultra- 
marine blue, or indigo. For black, ivory or 
lampblack, &c. Graining is produced by 
touching or streaking the wood with the color, 
as above, in irregular lines or marks, and in 
such shapes as the fancy may suggest, then 
finishing it with a coat of clear polish. 

3004. Water-Proof Polish. Take 1 
pint spirits of wine, 2 ounces gum-benzoin, 
|- ounce gum sandarach, and J ounce gum 
anime; these must be put into a stoppered 
bottle, and placed either in a sand-bath or in 
hot water till dissolved ; then strain the mix- 
ture, and, after adding about i gill best 
■clear poppy oil, shake it well up, and put it 
by for use. 

3005. Bright Polish. 1 pint spmts of 
wine to 2 ounces gum benzoin and 5 ounce 
gum-sandarach, put in a glass bottle corked, 
and placed in a sand-bath or hot water until 
you find all the gum dissolved, will make a 
beautiful clear polish for Tunbridgeware 
goods, tea-caddies, &c. It must be shaken 
from time to time, and, when all dissolved, 
strained through a fine muslin sieve, and 
bottled for use. 

3006. Prepared Spirits for Finishing 
Polish. This preparation is useful for finish- 
ing after any of the foregoing receipts, as it 
adds to the lustre and durability, as well as 
removing every defect, of the other polishes ; 
and it gives the surface a most brilliant ap- 
pearance. Take i pint best rectified spirits 
of wine, 2 drachms shellac, and 2 drachms 
gum-benzoin. Put these ingredients in a 
bottle, and keep it in a warm place till the 
gum is all dissolved, shakiuT; it frequently ; 
when cold, add 2 tea-spoonfals of the best 
clear white poppy oil ; shake them well to- 
gether, and it is fit for use. This preparation 
is used in the same manner as the foregoing 
polishes ; but, in order to remove all dull 



places, the pressure in rubbing may be in' 
creased. 

3007. Strong: Polish. To be used in 
the carved parts of cabinet-work with a brush, 
as in standards, pillars, claws, &e. Dissolve 
2 ounces seed lac and 2 ounces white resin in 
1 pint spirits of wine. This varnish or polish 
must be laid on warm, and if the work can be 
warmed also, it will be so much the better ; 
at any rate, moisture and dampness must be 
avoided. 

3008. How to Give Black Walnut a 
Dark Dead Smooth Surface. Take as- 
phaltum, pulverize it, place it in a jar or 
bottle, pour over it about twice its bulk of 
turpentine or benzole, put it in a warm place, 
and shake it from time to time. When dis- 
solved, strain it and apply it to the wood with 
a cloth or stifl* brush. If it should make too 
dark a stain, thin it with tui-pentine or ben- 
zole. This will dry in a few hours. If it is 
desired to bring out the grain still more, 
apply a mixture of boiled oil and turpentine ; 
this is better than oil alone. Put no oil with 
the asphaltum mixture, as it will dry very 
slowly. "When the oil is dry the wood can be 
polished with the following : Shellac varnish, 
of the usual consistency, 2 parts ; boiled oil, 
1 part. Shake it well before using. Apply 
it to the wood by putting a few drops on a 
cloth and rubbing briskly on the wood for a 
few moments. This polish works well on old 
varnished furniture. 

3009. Pohsh for Turners' Work. 
Dissolve sandarach in spirits of wine in the 
proportion of 1 ounce sandarach to ^ pint of 
spirits ; next shave bees' wax, 1 ounce, and 
dissolve it in a sufficient quantity of spirits of 
turpentine to make it into a paste ; add the 
former mixture by degrees to it ; then with a 
woolen cloth apply it to the work while it is 
in motion in the lathe, and with a soft linen 
rag polish it. It will appear as if highly 
varnished. 



TO Enamel Wood-Work. 
This is a process for creating an artifi- 
cial, glossy surface of any color on wood, very 
durable, and highly ornamental. It consists 
of three distinct, successive operations ; first, 
the colored coating or surface; next, the 
preparation of the surface for polishing ; and 
finallv, polishing. 

3011. To Prepare the Filling-up 
Color for Enameling Wood. The filling- 
up color, which forms the body of the enamel, 
is of the greatest importance to the ultimate 
success of the work. Of this material there 
are several kinds manufactured — black, brown, 
and yellow, for coach painters, japannere, and 
others ; but for use in interior decoration it 
is preferable to use the white lead filling, as, 
by adding the necessary staining colors (which 
do not afi"ect the properties of the enamel), 
a solid body of color is foiTued, of the same 
tint, or nearly so, as that with which the 
work is required to be finished, thus doing 
away with the objections which maybe urged 
against the black or dark-colored filling. It 
is evident that if work which has to be 
finished white, or with very light tints of 
color, be filled up with dark-colored fiUing, 



276 



TO EXAMEL WOOD-WOBK. 



the number of coats of paint required to ob- 
scure or kill the dark color vrill be so many 
that there vill be danger of the work becom- 
ing rough and uneven in parts. The Trhite 
lead should be ground stiff in turpentine, and 
about one-foui'th part of the ordinary white 
lead, ground in oil added to it, in order to 
prevent the enamel cracking, which it has a 
tendency to do, except there be some little oil 
mixed with it. A sufficient quantity of 
pohshing copal or best carriage varnish should 
now be added to bind it so that it will nib 
down easily, which fact cannot be properly 
ascertained except by actual trial, inasmuch 
as the drying properties of varnishes vary, 
and other causes influence the matter. If 
there be too much varnish in the stuflf the 
work will be exceedingly difficult to cut 
down, and if too little, it is apt to break up 
in rubbing, so that it is always the safest 
plan to try the enamel color before commenc- 
ing anything important. 

3012. To Lay the Color on Enameled 
"Wood. The color, beiug properly mixed, 
should be laid on the work in the"^ ordinary 
manner, using it rather freely. It may be as 
well to state here that no tilling should be 
put upon new work without the same having 
had 2 or 3 coats of ordinary oil paint, nor on 
old work without its having one coat. This 
gives a foundation for the filling. Successive 
coats of the fiUing should now be laid on the 
work until there is a sufficient thickness to 
cut down to a level surface. One day should 
intervene between each coat, in order "to allow 
it to harden in some degree. AVhen a suffi- 
cient number of coats are put on (which num- 
ber will, of course, depend upon the state of 
the work to be filled up), it should stand for 
2 or 3 weeks, until it is thoroughly hard ; it 
will then be ready for cutting down, which is 
to be done with a felt rubber, ground pumice 
Btone. and water, 

3013. To Prepare tlie Rubber for 
Enameling "Wood. The felt used should 
be such as the sculptors use for polishing 
marble, which varies in thickness from i to ^ 
an inch, and about 3 inches square. This 
should be fastened with resinous gum to 
square pieces of wood of the same size, but 1 
inch thick, so as to give a good hold for the 
hand in using. These pieces of wood, covered 
with felt, may be made of any size or shape 
to fit molded surfaces or other inequalities, 

3014. To Prepare the Pumice Stone 
for Enameling Wood. The pumice stone 
to be used should be of difl'erent degrees of 
fineness, and should be carefully selected, so 
as to be sure that it is free from any gritty 
substance. It is sold ready ground, but in 
situations where it cannot be conveniently 
got, it may be prepared from the lump, by 
grinding or crushing with a stone and muller, 
and then passed through fine sieves or mus- 
hn; by using these of different degrees of 
texture the ground pumice may be produced 
of different degrees of fineness. ' Unless great 
care be exercised in this matter, it will be 
found that particles of grit will be mixed with 
it, which make deep scratches on the work, 
thus causing endless trouble and annoyance, 
besides spoiling the work. The greatest care 
is also required in keeping the felt clean and 
free from grit. Many workmen are careless 



in this matter, and, when working, set down 
the felt on the step-ladder or floor, thus allow- 
ing particles of sand or grit to get upon it. 

3015. To Cut Down or "Prepare the 
Surface for Polishing. In cutting down, 
it is best to use a piece of soft lump pumice 
stone to take off the rough parts. The work 
should then be wet with a sponge ; the felt 
must first be soaked in water, then dipped 
into the powdered pumice, and the work 
rubbed with it, keeping it moderately wet, 
and rubbing with a circular motion, not 
straight up and down and across, and with a 
light touch, using only just as much pressure 
as will cause the pumice to bite, which will 
be very clearly felt while the hand is in mo- 
tion. Care and patience are required to do 
this properly, for if the pressure be too great 
it forces the pumice into the body of the filling 
color, and scratches it instead of cutting or 
grinding it fairly down. Xo huny will avaU 
in doing this work, it must have its time ; 
hurry only defeats the end in view, and 
often causes much unnecessary labor. A 
scratch, caused by want of care and too much 
haste, will often throw the work back for 

! days, and involve the cost and labor of refill- 
i ing. In practice the purpose is best answered 
: by using the pumice stone, the coarser kind 
j fiVst, then the medium, and finishing with the 
j finest last. It will be found advantageous to 
I let a day elapse between the rublnng, for 
j when the surface is cut down the filling will 
I in all cases be softer underneath, and if it be 
1 allowed to stand for a day, the newly exposed 
surface gets harder, and of course rubs down 
I better. The pumice stone should be well 
washed off the work occasionally, in order to 
see what progress is being made, and if it re- 
quire more rubbing or not. If, after the first 
rubbing, the surface be found not sufficiently 
filled lip, it may have one or more additional 
coats of fiUing before much labor has been 
spent upon it. 

3016. To Polish the Filling, men 
sufficiently rubbed down with the pumice 
stone — that is to say, when it has been cut 
down to a fine, level, and uniform surface, 
{see Xo. 3015), the work should stand for a 
day or two to harden. It will now depend en- 
tirely upon the work, as to whether it must 
be polished upon the filling, or whether it wiU 
have to be varnished and polished. If the 
filling be of the right color, and of one uni- 
form tint, it is best to be finished in this state, 
because it will have a surface and texture 
which cannot be got by any other means. 
Finished in this state it has all the uniformity 
of surface and evidence of finish, without 
that appearance of varnish which is so ob> 
jectionable. After it has stood a day or two, 
the work must be polished in this way : 
Take a clean felt and rotten stone, either in 
oil or water, and with this rub the work as 
before, until the polish begins to appear; then 
take a boss (/. e. a ball of cotton wool in- 
closed in fine silk), put the rotten stone upon 
this and keep rubbing with the circular mo- 
tion until the polish is unifonn and equal all 
over. The rotten stone must now be carefully 
cleaned off; if it be in oil, clean off with fine 
flour; if in water, with sponge and wash- 
leather and water, taking care not to scratch. 
A clean damp chamois or wash-leather will 



JAPAXKIXG. 



277 



now be required, which, must be held in the 
left hand, leaving the right perfectly at liberty. 
i^ow use the ball of the right hand, press 
gently upon the panel, and draw it forwards 
or towards you. If this be done properly, it 
will bring up a clear polish upon the work. 
The hand should be kept slightly damp by 
drawing it across the leather almost every 
time the hand is drawn forward. If this be 
done effectually, a rustling sound will be pro- 
duced while the hand is in motion ; if this be 
so, the polish will be sure to follow. The 
polish thus produced on the filling alone will 
have a beautiful soft appearance ; but if the 
work has to be finished with a brilliant lustre, 
and to a high degree of polish, proceed as fol- 
lows: 

3017. To Finish Wood witli a Bril- 
liant Polish. After being cut down with 
the pumice and felt as directed in jS^o 3015, 
the filling has to be coated with two or more 
coats of the best polishing copal varnish, hav- 
ing a quantity of^ the best tube flake white ; 
this should be mixed with the varnish in suffi- 
cient quantity to form a creamy mixture, 
with which the work must be coated — one, 
two, or three coats, as may be desirable. This 
should stand for 3 or 4 weeks, until it becomes 
hard; for the harder it is the better it will pol- 
ish. It must then be cut down with felt and 
the finest ground pumice stone in water, and 
polished with the rotten stone, as before de- 
scribed. By this means a bright and brilliant 
polish may be obtained, of a very enduring 
nature. The same process will of course an- 
swer for all varnished imitations of woods 
and marbles, and all work which will admit 
of the application of oil varnishes. 



Japanillllg is a kind of varnishing 
or lacquering, practiced in perfection by 
the Japanese, whence the name. The only 
difierence between varnishing and japanning 
is that after the application of every coat of 
color or varnish, the object so varnished is 
placed in an oven or chamber called a stove, 
at as high a temperature as can safely be em- 
ployed without injuring the articles or causing 
the varnish to blister or run. 

3019. To Prepare Metal for Japan- 
ning. Metal requires no other preparation 
than cleaning with turpentine, to free it from 
grease or oil, imless the latter should happen 
to be linseed oil, in which case the cleaning is 
generally dispensed with, and the articles are 
placed in the stove and heated until the oU is 
baked quite hard. 

3020. To Prepare Wood for Japan- 
ning. TVood that is intended to be used for 
the best japanned work, requires to be thor- 
oughly dried before it is made up, otherwise 
it will bo subject to aU the evils of shrinking, 
warping, and splitting, when exposed to the 
heat of the stove. To avoid these evils, the 
wood, after having been well seasoned in the 
usual manner, by exposure to the air, is sawn 
out nearly to the required forms, and baked 
for several days in the japanner's stove, the 
heat of which is gradually increased; and the 
wood is afterwards worked up into chairs, 
tables, trays, and similar articles, which are 
afterwards again exposed to the heat of the 



stove, and any cracks or other imperfections, 
that may be thus rendered apparent, are care- 
fully stopped with putty or white lead before 
the japanning is commenced. 

3021. To Prepare the Ground for 
Japanning. For black japanned work, the 
ground is first prepared with a coating of 
black, made by mixing dross ivory black to a 
proper consistence with dark colored anime 
varnish, as this gives a blacker surface than 
could be produced by japan alone. If the 
surface is required to be polished, five or six 
coats of japan are necessary to give sufficient 
body to prevent the japan from being rubbed 
through in polishing. 

3022. To Make Black Japan Varnish. 
Melt together 50 pounds Xaples asphaltum 
and 8 pounds dark gum anime, and boil for 2 
hours in 12 gallons linseed oil ; then melt 10 
pounds dark gum amber, and boil it with 2 
gallons linseed oil; add this to the other, with 
a sufficient quantity of dryers, and boil for 2 
hours longer, or until a little of the mass, 
when cooled, may be rolled into pills ; then 
withdraw the heat, and afterwards thin down 
with 30 gallons oil of turpentine. This is ex 
cellent for either wood Or metals. 

3023. Flexible Black Japan Varnish. 
A good black japan is made of burnt umber, 
4 ounces ; true asphaltum, 2 ounces : and 
boiled oil, 2 quarts. Dissolve the asphaltum 
at first in a little oil, using a moderate heat ; 
then add the umber, ground in oil, and lastly, 
the rest of the oil, and incorporate thoroughly. 
Thin with turpentine. It is a flexible japan, 
and may be used on metal work which requires 
to be bent somewhat. 

3024. Colored Japan. For colored 
works no japan is used, but they are painted 
with ordinary painters' colors, ground with 
linseed oil or turpentine, and mixed with 
anime varnish ; and the work is dried in the 
oven in the same manner as the black japan. 
To protect the colors, and give brilfiancy and 
durability to the surface, the work is after- 
wards varnished with copal or anime varnish, 
made without dryers. 2 or 3 coats of varnish 
suffice for ordinary works, and 5 or 6 for the 
best works that are polished. Yery pale 
varnish is of course required for light colors. 
Ornamental devices are painted on the ob- 
jects in the usual manner, after the general 
color of the ground has been laid on. The 
colors are dried in the stove, and the work is 
finally varnished and polished just the same 
as plain colors, but more carefully. 

3025. Transparent Japan Varnish. 
Oil turpentine, 8 ounces; oil lavender, 6 
ounces; camphor, 1 drachm; bruised copal, 
2 ounces; dissolve. Used for tin, <fcc. Quick 
drying copal varnish is usually substituted. 

'3026. To Color Japan Varnish. The 
above is a transparent japan, but by the fol- 
lowing modifications any or all of the various 
colors may be made from it. It is indispeu' 
sable that the colors be ground to an im- 
palpable powder before mixing with the var- 
nish, and should then be thoroughly ground 
with the varnish, otherwise it is preferable to 
apply the color first as a paint, and varnish 
afterwards with tlie above transparent japan. 
Previous to varnishing a painted surface, it 
should be cut down with pulverized pumice- 
stone, (fcc, as directed in Xo. 3015. 



278 



INDIA JAPANNING 



3027. To Color Japan Blue. Indigo 
and Prussian blue, botli finely pulverized, of 
each ^ ounce ; spirits of turpentine, 1 pint. 
Mix well and strain. Or use verditer glazed 
"v^ith Prussian blue or smalt; mix '^ith. the 
varnish in No. 3025. 

3028. To Color Japan Red. Yer- 
milion makes a fine scarlet, but its appearance 
in japanned work is much improved by glazing 
it "with a thin coat of lake, or even rose pink. 
Or : Take spirits of turpentine, i pint ; add 
cochineal, ^ ounce; let stand 15 hom's, and 
slrrain. Add to the transparent varnish {see 
No. 3025) to suit the fancy. 

3029. To Color Japan Yellow. 
King's yellow, turpeth mineral (subsulphate 
of mercury), and Dutch pinl\:, all form very 
bright yellows, and the latter is very cheap. 
Seed lac varnish assimilates with yellow very 
well ; and when they are required very bright, 
an improvement may be efiected by infusing 
turmeric in the varnish which covers the 
ground. Or: Take 1 ounce of pulverized root 
of curcuma and stir of it into 1 pint of the 
transparent varnish {see No. 3025) until the 
color pleases you ; let stand a few hours, and 
strain. 

3030 To Color Japan Green. Dis- 
tilled verdigris laid on a ground of leaf gold 
produces the brightest of all greens; other 
greens may be formed by mixing King^s yel- 
low and bright Prussian blue, or turpeth 
mineral and Prussian blue, or Dutch pink and 
verdigris. Mix with varnish. {See Nos. 3025 
and 1421.) 

3031. To Color Japan Orange. Mix 
a little red with yellow until the desired color 
is obtained; and add to transparent japan. 
{See No. 3025.) 

3032. To Color Japan WMte. White 
grounds are obtained with greater difficulty 
than any other. One of the best is prepared 
by grinding up flock-white, or 2dnc-white, 
with ^ of its weight of starch, and drying it ; 
it is then tempered, like the other colors, 
using the mastich varnish for common uses ; 
and that of the best copal for the finest. 

3033. To Color Japan Pink. Mix 
sufficient red {see No. 2028) with transparent 
varnish {see No. 3025) to give the desired tint 
of pink. 

3034. To Color Japan Purple. Mix 
red and blue together, and add to the varnish, 
(^ee ^^0.3025.) 

3035. To Color Jai)an Violet. A 
violet japan may be obtained by mixing 
purple {see No. 3034), and white {see No. 
3032), with transparent japan {see No. 3025.) 

3036. To Color Japan Brown. For 
brown japanned works, the clear japan alone 
is used as the ground, or umber is mixed with 
the japan to give the required tint, and the 
work is afterwards dried in the oven, in the 
same manner as black japan. 

3037. To Japan Old Tea-Trays. 
First clean them thoroughly with soap and 
water and a little rotten-stone; then diy 
them by wiping and exposure at the fire. 
]Srow get some good copal varnish, mix with 
it some bronze powder, and apply with a 
brush to the denuded parts, after which set 
the tea-tray in an oven, at a heat of 212^^ to 
300°, until the varnish is dry. Two coats 
will make it equal to new. 



India Japanning. The great 
peculiarity in the Indian method is 
the embossing, or raising the figures, &e., 
above the sm-face or groui.d, and the metallic 
or bronz;e-like hue of the several designs ; the 
gi-otesque appearance of the several orna- 
ments, whether figures, landscapes, or what> 
ever other designs they are embellished with, 
being so totally difi'erent from every principle 
of perspective, and so opposite to every idea 
we have of correct drawing, j^othing but 
the study of Chinese models themselves will 
enable the workmen to imitate, with any de- 
gree of precision, their several characteristics. 
3039. Ground for Chinese Japan. 
Mix any quantity of the finest whiting to the 
consistency of paint, with isinglass size ; lay 
on your wood 2 or 3 coats, observing to put it 
on evenly and smoothly, and not too thick ; 
let it dry ; then rub it gently with a soft rag 
and water till the surface is quite level and 
polished; if a small portion of honey is added 
to the mixture, it will render it less liable to 
crack or peel off. If the ground is to be 
black, which is most usual, give it a coat or 
two of the black japan mentioned in the com- 
mon method of japanning {see No. 3022), and 
it is prepared for the figures, &g. 

3040. Plaster Ground for Chinese 
Japan. Mix fine plaster of Paris with size 
not too thick, and apply it quickly, for it soon 
gets hard. Two coats, in most instances, will 
be sufficient. After it is quite dry, polish it 
with fine glass paper, and rub it with a wet 
soft cloth ; then give it 2 or 3 coats of drying 
linseed oil, or as much as it will soak up. 
When dry, it is ready for japanning. 

3041. To Trace Designs on the 
Ground. Having drawn the figures on a 
piece of white paper either with ink or pencil, 
rub the back of it with fine chalk or whiting, 
and shake all the loose powder off; lay it on 
the ground, and trace or go over every part 
of the outhne with the end of a blunt bodkin, 
or other similar instniment; you will then 
have a sketch in faint outline on your ground. 
Then proceed to put in the figures, &c., with 
any desired color, or bronze them. 

3042. To Raise Figures on the 
"Work. Prepare a mixture of whiting and 
size (some prefer the whites of eggs), of a 
consistency to flow freely from the pencil, 
the hairs of which must be rather long. Be- 
gin with a figure, or other part — but do not 
do too much at a time — and trace the outline 
correctly, with a free hand ; then take a piece 
of stick pointed at the end, dip it into the 
composition, and fill up the inside of the out- 
line. Continue to put more of the mixture 
on till it is raised sufficiently above the sur- 
face. Let it get quite dry, and then polish it 
with a small camel's-hair pencil and clean 
water, so as to make it perfectly smooth and 
level. Care must be taken in this process, 
that the composition is not too thin, or it wiU 
spread beyond the bounds of the outline, but 
just so thick as to drop from the stick. Some 
mix with the whiting a portion of flake- white, 
or dry white-lead. This is an improvement, 
and for very particular work should be 
adopted. 

3043. To Japan "Work-Boxes and 
j Fancy Articles. There is a very pretty 
I method of ornamenting boxes, cabinets, (fee, 



LACQUERS. 



279 



fBO that the figures appear of the color of the 
•wood, and the ground black or colored ; this, 
by many, is produced by first tracing out the 
pattern, and then pricking in those parts 
which shall appear as the ground, either 
black or any color at fancy. This is a very 
tedious process, and even when finished with 
the greatest care, will not appear regular or 
well defined in the pattern. The following 
method will be found very expeditious, and 
at the same time very correct ; it is but little 
known, and, as such, will to the practical 
japanner be the more acceptable. It may 
also be applied to many other purposes than 
here alluded to. The following preparation 
is necessary, and may be termed the stopping 
out mixture ; it is made by dissolving the 
best white bees' was in spirits of turpentine 
till it is of the consistency of varnish. Keep 
this mixture in a bottle, and, when wanted 
for use, mix sufficient for your present pur- 
pose with white lead in powder, or flake 
white, to give it a body — but not too thick, 
only so that it will flow freely from the brush. 
Having traced the design, go over those 
parts which are to remain of the color of the 
wood, and let it dry; then mix ivory-black 
(or other color as may be required), in very 
fine powder, with parchment or isinglass size, 
and go evenly and smoothly over every part 
of the work. It will now appear wholly 
black, or of whatever color that was mixed 
with the size. Let the whole get thoroughly 
dry ; then, with a stifi" brash dipped in plain 
spirits of turpentine, rub the whole of the 
work well, and those parts that have been 
gone over with the stopping-out mixture, 
will come off", leaving the black or other color 
perfect. It will then appear as if the work 
had been pricked in, but much sharper, and 
will, if carefully done, have a beautiful eflect. 
You have now nothing more to do than var- 
nish the work, as usual, and polish it as 
directed in ISTos. 2979, &c. To finish the work 
in the manner of Indian japan, give it 8 or 
10 coats of varnish, so that it will bear pol- 
ishing. 

3044. Sealing-Wax Varnish. For 
fancy work, this has of late years been much 
used, and, if well applied and the wax good, 
will be a very good imitation of India japan. 
The method of making the varnish or japan 
is very easy, being simply reducing the wax 
to a coarse powder, and pouring the best 
spirits of wine on it in a bottle, and letting it 
gradually dissolve without heat, shaking the 
bottle occasionally till it is all uissolved. A 
2 ounce stick of the best wax will be enough 
for i pint of spirits. Much depends on the 
goodness of the sealing-wax, and the color of 
the varnish may be varied by using difl"erent- 
ly colored wax. The finest vei-milion seal- 
ing-wax makes the best varnish, the other 
colors not flowing quite as well ; white seal- 
ing-wax is very apt to clot when drying. As 
this varnish dries very quickly, it should not 
be made until it is wanted for use. 



LaC^lierS. Lacquers areused upon 
polished metals and wood to impart the 
appearance of gold. As they are wanted of 
different depths and shades of color, it is best 



to keep a concentrated solution of each color- 
ing ingredient ready, so that it may at any 
time be added to produce any desired tint. 
Lacquer should always stand till it is quite 
fine, before it is used. 

3046. To Lacquer Brass Work. If 
the work is old, clean it first, according to the 
directions hereafter given ; but if new, it will 
merely require to be freed from dust, and 
rubbed with a piece of wash-leather, to malce 
it as bright as possible. Put the work on a 
hot iron plate (or upon the top of the stove), 
till it is moderately heated, but not too hot, 
or it will blister the lacquer; then, according 
to the color desired, take of the following 
preparations, and, making it warm, lay hold 
of the work with a pair of pincers or "phers, 
and with a soft brush apply the lacquer, being 
careful not to rub it on, but stroke the brush 
gently one way, and place the work on the 
hot plate again till the varnish is hard ; but 
do not let it remain too long. Experience 
will best tell you when it should be removed. 
Some, indeed, do not place it on the stove or 
plate a second time. If it should not be quite 
covered, you may repeat it carefully ; and, if 
pains be taken with the lacquer, it will look 
equal to metal gilt. 

3047. To Clean Old Brass Work for 
Lacquering. Make a strong lye of wood- 
ashes, which may be strengthened by soap- 
lees; put in the brass-work, and the lacquer 
will soon come ofi"; then have ready a mix- 
ture of aquafortis and water, sufficiently 
strong to take off the dirt ; wash it afterwards 
in clean water, and lacquer it with such of 
the following compositions as may be most 
suitable to the work. 

3048. To Make Gold Lacquer for 
Brass. Rectified spirits of wine, ^ pint; 
mix ^ pound of seed-lac, picked clean, and 
clear of all pieces (as upon that depends the 
beauty of the lacquer) with the spirits of 
wine ; keep them in a warm place, and shake 
them repeatedly. When the seed-lac is quite 
dissolved, it is fit for use. 

3049. Gold Lacquer. Put into a clean 
four gallon tin, 1 pound ground turmeric, 1^ 
ounces powdered gamboge, 31 ounces pow- 
dered gum-sandarach, | pound shellac, and 2 
gallons spirits of wine. After being agitated, 
dissolved, and strained, add 1 pint of turpen- 
tine varnish, well mixed. 

3050. Gold Colored Lacquer for 
Watch. Keys, Etc. Seed-lac, 6 ounces; 
amber, 2 ounces; gamboge, 2 ounces; extract 
of red sandal wood in water, 24 grains ; dra- 
gon's blood, 60 grains; oriental saffron, 36 
grains; pounded glass, 4 ounces; pure alco- 
hol, 36 ounces. The seed-lac, amljer, gam- 
boge, and dragon's blood must be pounded 
very fine on porphyry or clean marble, and 
mixed with the pounded glass. Over this 
mixture is poured the tincture formed by in- 
fusing the saffron and the extract of sandal 
wood in the alcohol for 24 hours. Metal ar- 
ticles that are to be covered with this varnish 
are heated, and, if they are of a kind to admit 
of it, are immersed in packets. The tint of 
the varnish may be varied in any degree re- 
quired, l)y altering the proportions of the col- 
oring quantities according to circumstances. 
3051. Deep Gold Lacquer. Seed-lac, 3 
ounces; turmeric, 1 ounce; dragon's blood, i 



580 



LACQ UEBS. 



ounce; alcohol, 1 pint. Digest for a week, 
frequently shaking, decant and filter. Deep 
gold colored. 

3052. Dark Gold Colored Lacquer. 
Strongest alcohol, 4 ounces ; Spanish annotto, 
8 grains ; powdered turmeric, 2 drachms ; red 
Saunders, 12 grains. Infuse and add shellac, 
etc., as to the pale tin lacquer {see No. 30.58), 
and when dissolved add 30 drops of spirits of 
turpentine. 

3053. Gold Lacquer. G-round turmeric, 
1 pound ; gamboge, 1^ ounces ; gum sand- 
arach. Si pounds ; shellac f pound ; all in pow- 
der ; rectified spirit of wine, 2 gallons. Dis- 
solve, strain, and add turpentine varnish, 1 
pint. 

3054. Brass Lacquer. Take 8 ounces 
shellac, 2 ounces sandarach, 2 ounces aimotto, 
J ounce dragon's blood resin, 1 gallon of 
spirits of wine. The article to be lacquered 
should be heated slightly, and the lacquer 
applied by means of a soft cameFs-hair brush. 

3055. Pale Brass Lacquer. Take 2 
gallons spirits of wine, 3 ounces cape aloes 
cut small, 1 pound fine pale shellac, 1 ounce 
gamboge cut small. Digest for a week, 
shake frequently, decant and filter. 

3056. Lacquer for Bronzed Dipped 
"Work. A lacquer for bronzed dipped work 
may be made thus : Alcohol, 12 gallons ; seed- 
lac, 9 pounds ; turmeric, 1 pound to the gal- 
lon ; Spanish safiron^ 4 ounces. The saffron 
may be omitted if the lacquer is to be very 
light. 

3057. Lacquer for Tin Plate. Best 
alcohol, 8 ounces ; turmeric, 4 drachms ; hay 
saffron, 2 scruples; dragon's blood, 4 scru- 
ples; red Saunders, 1 scruple; shellac, 1 
ounce; gum sandarach, 2 drachms; gum 
mastich, 2 drachms; Canada balsam, 2 
drachms ; when dissolved, add spirits of tur- 
pentine, 80 drops. 

3058. Pale Tin Lacquer. Strongest 
alcohol, 4 ounces; powdered turmeric, 2 
drachms; hay saffron, 1 scruple; dragon's 
blood in powder, 2 scruples; red sanders, 5 
scruple. Infuse this mixture in the cold for 
48 hours, pour off the clear, and strain the 
rest; then add powdered shellac, i ounce; 
sandarach, 1 drachm; mastich, 1 drachm; 
Canada balsam, 1 drachm. Dissolve this in 
the cold by frequent agitation, laying the 
bottle on its side, to present a greater surface 
to the alcohol. When dissolved, add 40 drops 
of spirits of turpentine. 

3059. Iron Lacquer. Take 12 parts 
amber, 12 parts turpentine, 2 parts resin, 2 
parts asphaltum, 6 parts drying oil. Or, 3 
pounds asphaltum, 5 pound shellac, 1 gallon 
turpentine. 

3060. Red Lacquer. Take 2 gallons 
spirits of wine, 1 pound dragon's blood, 3 
pounds Spanish annotto, Ai pounds gum san- 
darach, 2 pints turpentine. Made as pale brass 
lacquer. 

3061. Ked Lacquer. Spanish annotto, 
3 pounds; dragon's blood, 1 pound; gum 
sandarach, 3^ pounds ; rectified spirit, 2 gal- 
lons; turpentine varnish, 1 quart. Dissolve and 
mix as the last. 

3062. Lacquer for Philosophical In- 
struments. Gamboge, 11 ounces; gum san- 
darach, 4 ounces; gum elemi, 4 ounces; best 
dragon's blood, 2 "ounces ; terra merita, 1^ 



ounces; oriental saffron, 4 grains; seed-lac, 
2 ounces ; pounded glass, 6 ounces ; pure al- 
cohol, forty ounces. The dragon's blood, gum 
elemi, seed-lac, and gamboge, are all pounded 
and mixed with the glass. Over them is 
poured the tincture obtained by infusing the 
saffron and terra merita in the alcohol for 24 
hours. This tincture, before being poured 
over the dragon's blood, etc., should be strain- 
ed through a piece of clean linen cloth, and 
strongly squeezed. If the dragon's blood 
gives too high a color, the quantity may be 
lessened according to circumstances. The 
same is the case with the other coloring mat- 
ters. In choosing the terra merita, select 
that which is sound and compact. This lac- 
quer has a very good effect when applied to 
many cast or moulded articles used in orna- 
menting furniture, the irregularity of surface 
of which would render it difficult, if not im- 
possible, to polish in the ordinary manner. 

3063. To Make Lacquer of Various 
Tints. Put 4 ounces best gum gamboge 
into 32 ounces spirits of turpentine ; 4 ounces 
dragon's blood into the same quantity of 
spirits of turpentine as the gamboge, and 1 
ounce annotto into 8 ounces of the same 
spirits. The 3 mixtures should be made in 
different vessels. They should then be kept 
for about two weeks in a warm place, and as 
much exposed to the sun as possible. At the 
end of that time they will be fit for use ; and 
any desired tints may be obtained by making 
a composition from them, with such propor- 
tions of each liquor as the nature of the color 
desired will point out. 

3064. Durable and Lustrous Black 
Coating* for Metals. The bottom of a 
cylindrical iron pot, which should be about 
18 inches in height, is covered half an inch 
with powdered bituminous coal; a gi'ate is 
then put in and the pot filled with the articles 
to be varnished. Articles of cast iron, iron 
wire, brass, zinc, steel, tinned iron, <fec., may 
be subjected to the same treatment. The 
cover is then put on and the pot heated over 
a coke fire under a well-drawing chimney. 
In the beginning the moisture only evaporates, 
but soon the coking commences, and deep 
brown vapors escape, which irritate the throat. 
When the bottom of the pot has been heated 
for 15 minutes to a dull red heat, the coal has 
been mostly converted into coke ; the pot is 
then removed from the fire, and after standing 
10 minutes opened for evaporation, all the 
articles will be found covered with the above 
described coating. This lacquer is not only 
a protection against oxidation of metals, but 
will stand also a considerable heat, only dis- 
appearing at beginning redness, and therefore 
its useful application ior ovens and furnaces. 
The coating produced is thin, lustrous, and 
cannot easily be scratched. Fine iron ware 
articles, such as sieves, are in this manner 
coated with remarkable evenness, which can- 
not be accomplished in any other way. Ar- 
ticles made of tin, or soldered, cannot be sub- 
jected to this process, as they would fuse. 
Smaller articles, like hooks and eyes, receive 
this coating by heating them together with 
small pieces of bituminous coal in a cylindrical 
sheet iron drum like that used for roasting 
coffee, until they present the desired lustrous 
black appearance. 



PBESEBVATION OF LEATHER. 



281 



Preservation of Leather. 
The extreme heat to which most men 
and women expose boots and shoes dm-ing 
winter deprives leather of its vitality, render- 
ing it liable to break and crack. Patent 
leather particularly is often destroyed in this 
manner. "V^hen leather becomes so warm 
as to give oflF the smell of leather, it is 
singed. Next to the singeing caused by fire 
heat, is the heat and dampness caused by the 
covering of rubber. Close rubber shoes de- 
stroy tiie strength of leather. The practice 
of washing harness in warm water and with 
soap is very damaging. If a coat of oil is put 
on immediately after washing, the damage is 
repaired. No harness is ever so soiled that a 
damp sponge will not remove the dirt ; but, 
even when the sponge is applied, it is always 
useful to add a slight coat of oil by the use of 
another sponge. All varnishes, and all black- 
ing containing the properties of varnish should 
be avoided. Ignorant and indolent hostlers 
are apt to use such substances on their har- 
ness as will give the most immediate effect, 
and these, as a general thing, are most de- 
structive to the leather. 

3066. To Restore the Lustre of 
Leather. When harness loses its lustre and 
turns brown, which almost any leather will 
do after long exposure to the air, the harness 
should be given a new coat of grain black. 
Before using this grain black, the grain sur- 
face should be well washed with potash wa- 
ter until all the grease is killed, and after the 
application of the grain black, oil and tallow 
should be applied to the surface. This will 
not only fasten the color, but make the 
leather flexible. Harness which is grained 
can be cleaned with kerosene or spirits of tur- 
pentine. 

3067. To Restore Softness to Leather. 
To restore the softness and pliancy of leather 
which has become hard by having been wet, 
api)ly neat's foot oil and rub it in. Castor oil 
is a good substitute for neat's foot oil for soft- 
ening leather belts, boots and harness. But 
the best oil for harness, is 1 quart neat's foot 
oli, 4 ounces beefs tallow, and 3 table-spoon- 
fuls lampblack; add 4 ounces bees' wax for 
use in summer weather. 

3068. To Restore the Lustre of Mo- 
rocco. The lustre of Morocco is restored by 
a varnishing with the white of an egg. Apply 
with a sponge. 

3069. To Make Boots "Waterproof. 
Beef tallow, 4 ounces ; resin, 1 ounce ; bees' 
wax, 1 ounce; melt together. Add, when 
cold, a quantity of neat's foot oil equal to the 
mass. Apply with a rag, warming the boots 
before a fire, to the soles as well as uppers, 
and rub in well with the hand. Two applica- 
tions will make the boots thoroughly water- 
proof and still keep them soft. We, however, 
do not approve of such preparations, as the 
feet generally perspire more than any other 
portions of the body, and any waterproof 
preparations applied to boots prevent the 
perspiration from escaping, and keep the feet 
wet and cold. The New England fishermen i 
preserve their boots waterproof by this meth- ' 
od, which, it is said, has been in use among ! 
them above 100 vears. I 

3070. To Make Boots Water-Tight. ! 
In a pint of best winter-stramed lard oil, dis- ' 



solve a piece of paraffine the size of a hickory 
nut, aiding the solution with a gentle heat, 
say 130° or 140° Fahr. The readiest way to 
get pure paraffine is to take a piece of paraffine 
candle. Rub this solution on your boots 
about once a month ; they can be blacked in 
the meantime. If the oil should make the 
leather too stifi", decrease the proportion of 
paraffine, and vice versa. A gentleman who 
has tried this says : — I have used this for 8 
years past, and boots have lasted me two 
winters, the uppers always remaining soft, 
and never cracking. I have tried bees' wax, 
resin, tar, etc., but never found any other pre- 
paration half so good. 

3071. Sportsmen's Waterproof Com- 
position for Boots. Dissolve by heat 1 
ounce pure bottle India-rubber shavings in 1 
quart neat's foot oil, and add 2 ounces tallow. 
This makes a fine waterproof composition 
for boots, and is recommended to sportsmen. 

3072. Polish for Patent Leather 
Goods. Take h pound molasses or sugar, 1 
ounce gum-arabic, and 2 pounds ivory black ; 
boil them well together, then let the vessel 
stand until quite cooled, and the contents are 
settled; after which, bottle off". This is an 
excellent reviver, and may be used as a black- 
ing in the ordinary way, no brushes for polish- 
ing being required. 

3073. Glycerine Composition for 
Leather. As is well known, glycerine has 
found extensive application in tanning, as it 
has been discovered that it adds materially to 
the elasticity and strength of the leather. 
Especially has it been found of great value in 
protecting leather bands of machinery from 
cracking and drying. The partially tanned 
leather is immersed for considerable time in 
a bath of glycerine, by which the pores are 
filled and such an elasticity and softness is 
imparted that objects manufactured from it 
are much less liable to break. In order to 
prepare a neutral gutta-percha composition 
with glycerine, take 3 to 4 pounds lampblack, 
5 pound burnt bones (burnt ivory), cover up 
in a suitable vessel with 5 pounds glycerine 
and 5 pounds common syrup, and stir well 
until the whole is intimately mixed and free 
from lumps. 4 or 5 ounces of gutta-percha, 
finely cut, are to be put into a kettle, and 
after melting must be mixed with 20 ounces 
of sweet oil and dissolved, and 2 ounces of 
stearine added. "While still warm the gutta- 
percha solution must be incorporated with 
the syrup and lampblack, and after this is 
done, 10 ounces of Senegal gum dissolved in 
Ih pounds of water is also added. In order 
to impart an agreeable odor to the mass a 
small quantity of rosemary or lavender oil 
may be introduced. In using, the glycerine 
gutta-percha paste must be diluted with 3 or 
4 parts of water. It gives a fine lustre, anc^, 
as it contains no acid, it does not injure the 
leather, but makes it soft and elastic and adds 
very much to its durability. 

3074. To Preserve and Clean Har- 
ness. In the first place, subject the harness 
to 1 or 2 coats (as the leather may need) of 
lampblack and castor oil, warmed sufficient- 
ly to make it penetrate the leather readily. 
Then make about 2 quarts of warm soap-suds, 
and with a sponge wash the harness. When 
dry, rub it over with a mixture of oil and tal- 



BOOT AND SHOE BLACKING. 



low, equal parts, with sufficient lampblack to 
give it color ; or, what is better, Prussian blue, 
which gives it a new and fresh look. This 
>cmpGund should be applied sparingly and 
»vell rubbed in, which can be quickly done 
and will leave a smooth and clean surface. 

3075. Harness Polish. Take 2 ounces 
mutton suet, 6 ounces bees' wax, 6 ounces 
powdered sugar candy, 2 ounces soft soap, and 
1 ounce indigo or lampblack. Dissolve the 
soap in ^ pint of water ; then add the other 
ingredients; melt and mix together; add a 
gill of turpentine. Lay it on the harness 
with a sponge, and polish off with a brush. 

3076. To Clean Leather. Uncolored 
leather may be cleaned by applying a solution 
of oxalic acid with a sponge. Dissolve in 
warm water. 

3077. To Take Oil Out of Leather. 
Use strong (F. F. F. F.) aqua ammonia, 
which will take oil out without injury to the 
leather. It must be used 2 or 3 times in 
order to get it all out. First use it and let the 
leather stand until more comes out, and ap- 
ply again. This is the only thing that will 
take it out and not hurt the leather. 

3078. Dubbing for Leather. Mix 2 
pounds black resin, 1 pound tallow with 1 
gallon train oil. 

3079. Jet for Harness and Boots. 
Dissolve 3 sticks of the best black sealing- 
wax in i pint spirits of wine ; keep in a 
glass bottle, and shake well previous to use. 
Applied with a soft sponge. This gives the 
leather a fine black surface, which, however, 
is apt to crack more or less. 

3080. Shoemakers' Black. A solu- 
tion of green copperas (sulphate of iron) in 
about 12 times its weight in water. It is 
used to black leather which has been tanned 
with bark or other astringent matter, and to 
the edges of the soles etc., with a feather or 
brush. 

3081. Harness Liquid Blacking. 
Dissolve by heat, 4 ounces glue or gelatine 
and 3 ounces gum arable in | pint water ; add 
7 ounces molasses and 5 ounces ivory black in 
very fine powder ; gently evaporate until of a 
proper consistence when cold, stirring all the 
time. Keep in corked bottles. 

3082. Harness Waterproof Paste 
Blacking. Melt together 2 ounces mutton 
suet and 6 ounces bees' wax; add 6 ounces 
sugar candy, 2 ounces soft soap, 2k ounces 
lampblack, and I ounce indigo in fine pow- 
der; when thoroughly mixed add i pint of 
oil of turpentine ; put into pots or tins. 

3083. Harness "Waterproof Cake 
Blacking. Melt 1 pound bees' wax, 1 ounce 
Prussian blue ground in 2 ounces linseed oil, 
i pound ivory black, 3 ounces oil of turpen- 
tine and 1 ounce copal varnish ; mix well to- 
gether and form into cakes whilst warm. 

3084. Harness Waterproof Blacking. 
Mix the same ingredients as in the last re- 
ceipt, and while liot add 4 ounces soft soap 
and 6 ounces more oil of turpentine ; put the 
paste into pots or tins. None of the above 
blackings will injure the leather. 

3085. To Apply Harness Blacking. 
Spread a very little of the blacking evenly on 
the surface of the leather, and polish by gen- 
tle friction with a brush or an old handker- 
chief. Paste blacking is thinned with water. 



Boot and Shoe Blacking. 
The manipulations required for paste 
and liquid blacking are the same, the differ- 
ence in the two being the quantity of liquid 
added. Thus, by diluting paste blacking 
with water or beer bottoms, it may be con- 
verted into liquid blacking of a similar quality, 
and, by using less fluid matter, the ingredients 
of liquid blacking will produce paste blacking. 
One thing must, however, be observed, and 
that is, that the ivory-black used for liquid 
blacking must be reduced to a much finer 
powder than for paste blacking, as, if this be 
not attended too, it will settle to the bottom, 
and be with difficulty diffused again through 
the liquid. For those persons who do not 
like the use of blacking containing oil of 
vitriol, the first of the forms given below, 
either for paste or liquid, may be adopted. 
The vitriol, however, greatly contributes to 
promote the shining properties of the black- 
ing, and in small quantities is not so injurious 
to the leather as has been falsely represented, 
as it wholly unites itself to the lime of the 
phosphate contained in the ivory-black, and 
is thus partly neutralized. This is the reason 
why lampblack should never be employed 
for blacking, as it has no earthy base to ab- 
sorb or neutralize the acid, which would then 
prove very hurtful to the leather. Oil oi 
vitriol is now employed in the manufacture of 
all the most celebrated shining blackings. 
The addition of white of eggs, isinglass, gum- 
arabic, and similar articles to blacking, always 
proves injurious, as they tend to stiffen the 
leather and to make it crack. 

3087. Liquid Blacking. Ivory-black, 
in fine powder, 1 pound; molasses, f poand; 
sweet oil, 2 ounces ; beer and vinegar, of each 
1 pint. Eub together the first three until the 
oil be perfectly killed, then add the beer and 
vinegar. 

3088. Fine Liquid Blacking. Ivory- 
black and molasses, of each 1 pound ; sweet 
oil and oil of vitriol, of each i pound. Mix 
the first three as before, then gradually add 
the vitriol, diluted with thrice its weight of 
water; mix well, and let it stand for 3 iours, 
when it may be reduced to a proper consist- 
ence with water or sour beer. 

3089. Liquid Jet Blacking. Ivory - 
black and molasses, of each ^ pound ; oil of 
vitriol, 1 ounce ; sweet oil, 2 ounces ; sour 
beer, 1 pint ; finish as last receipt. 

3090. Good Liquid Blacking. Ivory- 
black, 7 pounds ; molasses, 6 pounds ; sweet 
oil, 1 pound ; oil of vitriol, ^ pound ; sufficient 
water; finish as in ISTo. 3088. 

3091. Liquid Blacking. Ivory-black, 
3 cwt. ; crude molasses, 2 cwt. ; linseed oil, 
3 gallons ; oil of vitriol, 20 pounds ; sufficient 
water to finish as in No. 3088. 

3092. Bryant and James' Patent 
Liquid Blacking. 18 ounces caoutchouc 
are to be dissolved in about 9 pounds hot 
rape oil. To this solution 60 pounds of fine 
ivory-black and 45 pounds molasses are to be 
added, along with 1 pound finely- ground 
gum-arabic, previously dissolved in 20 gallons 
vinegar. These mixed ingredients are to be 
finely triturated in a paint-mill till the mix- 
ture becomes perfectly smooth. To this 
varnish 12 pounds sulphuric acid are to be 
now added in small successive quantities^ 



METHOD OF MARBLING BOOKS. 



with powerful stirring for half an hour ; at 
the end of which time 3 pounds of finely- 
ground gum-arabic are added ; after which 
the stirring is repeated half an hour every 
day for 14 days longer, when the liquid black- 
ing is ready for use. 

3093. Paste Blacking. Molasses, 1 
pound ; ivory-black, 1^ pounds ; sweet oil, 2 
ounces; rub together as before {see No. 3088); 
then add a little lemon juice or strong vine- 
gar. 

3094. Brilliant Paste Blacking. 
Ivory-black, 2 pounds; molasses, 1 pound; 
olive oil and oil of vitriol, of each J pound; 
sufficient water, as before. 

3095. Fine Paste Blacking. Ivory- 
black, 28 pounds; molasses, 21 pounds; 
common oil, I quart ; oil of vitriol, 3 pounds ; 
sufficient water, as before. 

3096. Fine Oil Paste Blacking. 
Ivory-black, 3 cwt. ; common molasses, 2 
cwt. ; linseed oil and vinegar bottoms, of 
each 3 gallons ; oil of vitriol, 28 pounds ; 
sufficient water, mix as before. 

3097. Oil Paste Blacking. Ivory- 
black, 2 pounds ; molasses, 4 or 5 ounces ; 
oil of vitriol, 2 ounces ; tanners' oil, 5 ounces 
(if this cannot be obtained, then use 4 ounces 
best tallow) ; gum-arabic, 1 ounce. Mix the 
oil and vitriol together, and let it stand 24 
hours ; dissolve the gum in a cupful of warm 
water ; then add 3 table-spoonfuls of best 
vinegar; heat it and mix with the oil, cfec, 
and then add the ivory-black, molasses, and 
white of 2 eggs. 

3098. Real Japan Paste Blacking. 
Take 3 ounces ivory-black, 2 ounces coarse 
sugar, 1 ounce sulphuric acid, 1 ounce muri- 
atic acid, 1 lemon, 1 table-spoonful sweet oil. 
And 1 pint vinegar. First mix the ivory- 
black and sweet oil together, then the lemon 
and sugar, with a little vinegar to qualify the 
blacking ; then add the sulphuric and muri- 
atic acids, and mix them all well together. 
The sugar, oil, and vinegar, prevent the acids 
from injuring the leather, and add to the 
lustre of the blacking. 

3099. Bryant and James' Patent Paste 
Blacking. In making the paste blacking, 
the patentees prescribe the same quantity of 
India-rubber oil, ivory-black, molasses, and 
gum-arabic as in their liquid blacking, the 
latter being dissolved in only 12 pounds vine- 
gar. These ingredients are to be well mixed, 
and then ground together in a mill till they 
form a perfectly smooth paste. To this paste 
12 pounds sulphuric acid are to be added in 
small quantities at a time, with powerful 
stirring, which is to be continued 5 hour after 
the last portion of the acid has been intro- 
duced. Ready for use in 7 days. 

3100. New Blacking. The lustrous 
qualities of blacking are frequently derived 
from ingredients which are most deleterious 
and destructive to leather. Herr Artus 
publishes a new formula, and claims several 
advantages for it, to which we may add its 
cheapness and accessibility. 3 or 4 pounds 
vegetable black, l^ pounds ivory-black, 5 
pounds molasses, and 5 pounds glycerine, 
mixed thoroughly together. 6 ounces gutta- 
percha, cut in small pieces, are then melted, 
and when fluid, 20 ounces olive oil are added, 
and subsequently, 2 ounces stearine. The 



second mixture, while quite hot, is stirred in- 
to the first ; and then a further addition of 
10 ounces gum Senegal, dissolved in about 3 
quarts water, is added. This compound is 
the stock ; for use, it should be diluted with 
about 3 times its quantity of warm water. 

3101. Day and Martin's Blacking. 
According to Mr. W. C. Day, the method of 
making the famous "Day and Martin's Black- 
ing " is as follows : Bone-black in a state of 
powder, is mixed with sperm oil until the 
two are thoroughly incorporated. Sugar or 
molasses is then mixed with a small portion 
of vinegar and added to the mass. Oil of 
vitriol is next added, and when all efferves- 
cence has ceased, more vinegar is poured in 
until the mixture is of a proper consistency. 
This constitutes the liquid blacking of the 
above-named manufacturers. 



Method of Marbling 
Books. This is performed by 
laying the color on the edges with a brush, 
or by means of a wooden trough and gum- 
water as follows : — Provide a wooden trough, 
2 inches deep, 6 inches wide, and the length 
of a super-royal sheet ; boil in a brass or cop- 
per pan any quantity of linseed and water 
until a thick mucilage is formed; strain it 
into the trough, and let it cool ; then grind 
on a marble slab any of the following colors 
in small beer. For — 

Blue, Prussian blue or indigo. 

Bed, rose-pink, vermilion, or drop lake. 

Yelloiv, King's yellow, yeUow ochre, &c. 

White, flake white. 

Black, ivory or burnt lampblack. 

Brown, umber, burnt umber, Vandyke 
brown, sienna, burnt sienna; black mixed 
with yellow and red, also makes brown. 

Green, blue and yellow mixed. 

Orange, red and yellow mixed. 

Purple, red and blue mixed. 

For each color yon must have two cups, 
one for the color after grinding, the other to 
mix it with ox-gall, which must be used to 
thin the colors at discretion. If too much 
gall is used, the color will spread; when 
they keep their place on the surface of the 
trough, when moved with a quill, they are fit 
for use. All things being in readiness, the 
colors are successively sprinkled on the sur- 
face of the mucilage in the trough with a 
brush, and are waved or drawn about with a 
quill or stick, according to taste. When the 
desigu is thus formed, the book, tied tightly 
between cutting-boards of the same size, is 
lightly pressed with its edge on the surface of 
the liquid pattern, and then withdrawn and 
dried ;^ the covers may be marbled in the 
same way, only letting the liquid colors run 
over them. The film of color in the trough 
may be as thin as possible, and if any remains 
after the marbUng, it may be taken off by ap- 
plying paper to it before you prepare for 
marbling again. 

3103. Blue Sprinkle for Bookbinders. 
Strong sulphuric acid, 8 ounces ; Spanish in- 
digo, powdered, 2 ounces. Mix in a bottle 
that will hold a quart, and place it in a water- 
bath to promote solution. For use, dilute a 
little to the required color in a teacup. 



284r 



METHOD OF MARBLING BOOKS. 



3104. Blua Marble for Books, &c. 

Color the edges with. King's yellow, and when 
dry tie the book between boards. Throw on 
blue spots in the gum trough, wave them 
with the iron pin, and apply the edges 
thereon. 

3105. Brown Color for Marbling or 
Sprinkling" Books. Logwood chips, 1 part ; 
annotto, 1 part; boil in water, 6 parts. If too 
light, add a piece of copperas about the size 
of a pea. Or : Timber, any quantity. Grind 
it on a slab with ox-gall and a little lamp- 
black. Dilute with ale. 

3106. Gold Sprinkle for Books. Put 
into a marble mortar ^ ounce pure honey and 
1 book of gold leaf ; rub them well together 
until they are very fine, add i pint of clear 
water, and mix them well together. "When 
the water clears, pour it off, and put in more, 
till the honey is all extracted, and nothing re- 
mains but the gold. Mix 1 grain corrosive 
sublimate in a tea-spoonful spirits of wine, 
and when dissolved, put the same, together 
with a little gum water, to the gold, and bot- 
tle it close for use. The edges of the book 
may be sprinkled or colored very dark, with 
green, blue, or purple, and lastly with the 
gold liquid, in small or large spots, very regu- 
lar, shaking the bottle before using. Burnish 
the edges when dry, and cover them with 
paper to prevent the dust falling thereon. 
This sprinkle will have a most beautiful ap- 
pearance on extra work ; ladies may use it 
for ornamenting their fancy work, by putting 
it on with a pen or camel's hair brush, and 
when dry burnishing it with a dog's tooth. 

3107. Marble for Leather Book- 
Covers. "Wash the cover and glair it, take a 
sponge charged with water, having the book 
between wands, and drop the water from the 
sponge on the different parts of the cover; 
sprinkle very fine with vinegar black, then 
with brown, and lastly with vitriol water. 
Observe to sprinkle on the colors immediately 
after each other, and to wash the cover over 
with a clean sponge and water. 

3108. Chinese Edge for Books. 
Color the edge with light liquid blue and dry ; 
then take a sponge charged with vermilion, 
and dab on spots according to fancy; next 
throw on rice, and finish the edge with dark 
liquid blue. Color light blue on different 
parts of the edge with a sponge ; do the same 
where there are vacancies with yellow and 
Brazil red ; dry and dab on a little vermilion 
in spots; then throw on rice, and finish with 
a bold sprinkle of dark blue. Burnish. 

3109. Wax Marble for Leather 
Book-Covers, &c. This marbling must be 
done on the fore edge, before the back of the 
book is rounded, or becomes round, when in 
boards, and finished on the head and foot. 
Take bees' wax and dissolvo it over the fire in 
an earthen vessel; take quills stripped of 
their feathers, and tie them together ; dip the 
quill-tops in the wax, and spot the edge, with 
large and small spots ; take a sponge charged 
with blue, green, or red, and smear over the 
edge : when done, dash off the wax, and it 
will be marbled. This will be useful for 
stationery work, or for folios and quartos. 

3110. Yellow Egyptian Marble for 
Leather Book-Covers. Boil quercitron 
bark with water and a little powdered alum. 



over a slow fire, until it is a good strong yel- 
low. Pour the liquid into a broad vessel, 
sufficiently large to contain the cover when 
extended. Before the liquid is cool, take the 
dry cover, and lay the grain side flat on the 
color ; press it lightly that the whole may re- 
ceive the liquid ; let it soak some time, and 
then take it from the vessel. The book must 
be covered in the usual manner, and permitted 
to dry from the fire. Glair the book ; when 
dry, place it between the wands; take a 
sponge and water, and press large spots there- 
on; dip a quill-top into the vinegar black, 
with it touch the water on the cover in differ- 
ent parts, which will have a fine effect when 
managed with care. Let it stand a few min- 
utes, then take off the water with a clean 
sponge. 

3111. Green Egyptian Marble for 
Leather Book-Covers. Color the cover 
in a large vessel, as mentioned before, with 
Scott's liquid blue ; when done, put it into a 
vessel of clear water for an hour. Take it out 
and press out the water, then cover the book. 
Glair the cover ; when dry, place it between 
wands, and drop weak potash water from a 
sponge thereon; dip the quill-top into the 
strong black, and touch the water with it. 
This must be repeated till you have a good 
black. When dry, clear it with a sponge and 
water. 

3112. Red Egyptian Marble for 
Leather Book-Covers. Boil Brazil dust in 
rain-water on a slow fire, with a little pow- 
dered alum and a few drops of solution of 
tin, till a good color is produced. Dip a piece 
of calf leather into the liquid, and you may 
ascertain the color wanted. If too light, let 
it boil till it is reduced to one half of the quan- 
tity ; take it from the fire, add a few more 
drops of the solution of tin, and pour it into a 
large vessel. Put the dry cover on the liquid, 
and let it remain for a quarter of an hour, 
then press out the water. Color it over with 
a sponge and the quercitron bark water, and 
cover the Look. Glair the cover, place it be- 
tween wands, dash on water with a brush, 
also potash water ; and, lastly, finish it with 
the strong vinegar black, with the quill-top. 
Observe that too much black is not put on ; 
the intention of the marble is to show the red 
as transparently as possible. 

3113. Green Marble for Leather 
Book-Covers. The edge must be marbled 
with a good bright green only. "When the 
color is prepared with the ox-gall, and ready 
for use, a few drops of sweet oil must be 
mixed therein, the color thrown on with a 
brush, in large spots, till the gum is perfectly 
covered. The oil will make a light edge 
round each spot, and have a good effect. 
Blue, green, and brown may be also used sep- 
arately in like manner. Sheets of paper may 
be done, having a trough large enough, and 
the sheets damped as for printing, before 
marbling. Spirits of turpentine may be 
sprinkled on the colors, which will make 
white spots. 

3114. Binders' Thread Marble. Yel- 
low the edge ; when dry, cut pieces of thick 
thread over the edge, which will fall on differ- 
ent parts irregularly ; give it a fine dark sprin- 
kle, and shake off the thread. This produces 
a neat marbled appearance. 



FROTOGBAPRY. 



285 



3115. Rice Marble, for Leather 
Book-Covers. Color the cover with spirits 
of wiiie aucl turmeric, then place ou rice iu a 
regular manner ; throw on a very fine sprinkle 
of copperas water till the cover is nearly 
black, and let it remain till dry. The cover 
may be spotted with the red liquid or potash 
water, very freely, before the rice is thrown 
off the boards. 

3116. Orange Color for Marbling or 
Sprinkling Books. Ground Brazil wood, IG 
parts; anuotto, 4 parts; alum, sugar, and 
gum-arabic, each 1 part ; water, 70 parts. Boil, 
.strain, and bottle. 

3117. Tree Marble, for Leather 
Book-Covers. A marble in the form of 
trees may be done by bending the boards a 
little on the centre, using the same method 
as the common marble, having the cover pre- 
viously prepared. The end of a candle may 
be rubbed on different parts of the boards, 
which will form knots. 

3118. Vinegar Black for Book- 
binders. Steep iron filings or rusty iron iu 
good vinegar for two or three days, then 
strain off the liquor. 

3119. To Sprinkle Books. Take a 
stiff brush made of hogs' bristles, perfectly 
clean, dip it in the color; squeeze out the 
superfluous liquid; then rub a folding-stick 
across the brush, and a fine sprinkle will fall 
on the edge of the book, which should be 
previously screwed tight in the cutting-press. 
Repeat the operation until the color is thrown 
equally on every part of the leaves. The 
brush should be held in the left hand, and the 
stick in the right. 

3120. Chinese Marble for Leather 
Book-Covers. Color the cover of the book 
dark brown, and when dry put it into the cut- 
ting-press, with the boards perfectly flat; 
mix whiting and water of a thick consistence 
and throw it on, in spots or streaks, some 
large and some small, which must remain till 
dry. Spot or sprinkle the cover with liquid 
blue, and lastly throw on large spots of liquid 
red. The colors must be dry before washing 
off the whiting. 

3121. Orange Sprinkle for Books. 
Color the edge with Bang's yellow, mixed in 
weak gum-water, then sprinkle with vermilion 
mixed in the same manner. 

3122. Purple Sprinkle for Book- 
binders. Logwood chips, 4 parts ; pow- 
dered alum, 1 part; soft water, 24 parts. 
Boil until reduced to 16 parts, and bottle for 
use. Or : Brazil dust (fine), and mix it with 
potash water for use. 

3123. Soap Marble for Books. This 
is applicable for marbling stationery, book 
edges, or sheets of paper for ladies' fancy 
work. Grind, on a marble slab, Prussian 
blue, with water, and a little brown soap, to 
a fine pliable consistence, that it may be 
thrown on with a small brush. Grind King's 
yellow in the same manner, with water and 
white soap. When green is intended for 
the ground color, grind it with brown soap, 
and King's yellow with white soap. Lake 
may be used for a ground color, and Prussian 
blue ground with white soap ; brown umber 
for a ground color, and flake-white ground 
with white soap. Any color of a light sub- 
stance may be ground for marbling. 



3124. Spotted Marble for Books. 

After the fore-edge of the book is cut, let it 
remain in the press, and throw on linseeds iu 
a regular manner; sprinkle the edge with any 
dark color, till the white paper is covered, 
then shake off the seeds. Various colors may 
be used. The edge may be colored with 
yellow or red before thro^ving on the seeds 
and sprinkling with blue. The seeds will 
make a fine fancy edge when placed very 
thick on different" parts, with a few slightly 
thrown on the spaces between. 

3125. Brown Sprinkle for Leather 
Book-Covers. Pearlash or potash, 1 part; 
soft water, 4 parts. Dissolve and strain. 

3126. Bed Sprinkle for Binders. 
Brazil wood (ground), 4 parts; alum, 1 part; 
vinegar, 4 parts ; water, 4 parts. Boil until 
reduced to 7 parts, then add a small quantity 
of loaf-sugar and gum. Bottle for use. 

3127. Black Sprinkle for Leather 
Book-Covers. Green copperas, 1 part ; soft 
water, hot, 6 parts. Dissolve. 



PllOtOgraphy. photography is 
based upon the law or principle that 
sunlight decomposes certain combinations of 
the salts of silver. For instance, if a piece of 
paper is first dipped into a solution of chloride 
of sodium (common table salt,) and then, 
when dried, floated on a solution of nitrate of 
silver, it will, upon being brought to the 
light, begin to darken, and finally assume an 
absolute black. It will be seen that if any 
opaque or semi-opaque body is interposed be- 
tween the light and the paper, that portion 
which is so protected from the action of the 
light remains white, and thus impresses upon 
the paper, in a negative condition, the form 
or figure of the article so used. 

The entire matter embraced in oSTos. 3128 
to 3154 is contributed by the eminent 
photographer, Mr. Geo. G. Kockwood, of 
ISTew York. 

3129. To Make a Photograph With- 
out a Camera. The art of photography 
has many interesting and useful applications 
other than portraiture, one of the simplest 
and most beautiful of which we here present. 
It can be applied to the copying of laces, 
drawings, leaves, or anything of a transparent 
or translucent nature. It is proposed to first 
describe the manipulations, and then give the 
formulte. 

3130. Papier Saxe for Photography. 
The best is the papier saxe, an article made 
expressly for photography, and may be ob- 
tained from any dealer in photographic ma- 
terials. It is sold in sheets about 18 by 22 
inches. The smooth side can be easily select- 
ed, and upon that side the print should be 
made. Cut the paper into the sizes most 
convenient for the style of pictm'e desired, 
and prepare the salting solution as follows : 

3131. Salting Solution for Photo- 
graphic Paper. Mix together pure water, 
16 ounces ; chloride of ammonium or of 
sodium, 160 grains. Take enough of this to 
cover a shallow dish of porcelain to the depth 
of ^ inch or more, and then immerse the 
paper, one sheet at a time. "WTien a half 
dozen are in, turn them all over, and take 



286 



FROTOaEAFHY. 



them out one Dy one, in the order in which 
they were immersed, and hang them np 
separately to dry. 

3132. Albumenized Paper for Pho- 
tography. Albumenized paper, such as is 
used for ordinary portraiture in the galleries, 
is always ready prepared for silvering. It is 
much the finest and sharpest in its results, 
and will usually be adopted; but the most 
artistic effects will be produced by the use of 
plain papier saxe. Paper, in either of these 
forms, prepared with cfiloride (salt) will keep 
indefinitely. 

3133. Silver Solution to Sensatize 
Paper. The weather being propitious for 
printing (a clear, bright sunlight is preferable), 
the salted or albumenized paper is taken into 
a darkened room to be rendered sensitive by 
the silver solution. Make about the same 
quantity of this as of the salting solution, by 
using, in the following proportions : Pui*e wa- 
ter, 1 ounce ; nitrate of silver (in crystals), 60 
grains. When thoroughly dissolved, pour 
the solution into a flat porcelain dish, and 
carefully remove all bubbles, &c. 

3134. To Make the Paper Sensitive. 
Having prepared the silver solution as above 
directed, take the paper by opposite comers, 
smooth side down if plain paper, glazed side 
if albumenized; lower one corner on to the 
solution, and steadily lower the rest to the 
surface of the solution, so that the air is com- 
pletely driven out, and the entire surface ex- 
posed to the action of the silver. Be very 
careful that the solution does not get on the 
back of the paper. Plain paper (papier saxe) 
should float 2 minutes ; albumenized, 3 
minutes. Carefully raise the sheet from the 
solution, and hang up to dry in a perfectly 
dark room. It is best to proceed with the 
printing as soon as the paper is dry. Addi- 
tional brilliancy and sensitiveness is imparted 
to the paper by exposing it, after it is thor- 
oughly dry, to the fumes of ammonia. This 
may be done by hanging it up with a clip or 
pin in a »lose box, in which is a small dish 
containing aqua ammonia F.F.F. This fum- 
ing process may be dispensed with, yet the 
prints are much more uniform when treated 
with the ammonia. 

3135. To Copy an Object. Having 
prepared, in a dark room, a sheet of paper as 
above, lay it upon a piece of glass; place 
upon the glass a leaf as translucent as can be 
found, and then above it, to hold it in place, 
another piece of glass, and at each corner a 
clip, or a common spring clothes-pin. o^ow 
expose the plates so arranged, leaf side up, to 
the sun's rays. The paper will at once begin 
to darken, and in from 5 to 10 minutes, except 
under the leaf, be entirely black. If the 
plates are now taken into a dark room and 
separated, the image of the leaf, with all its 
delicate tracery and beautiful lines, will be 
found upon the paper, white, with black back- 
ground. It would be well to put under the 
sensitive paper a few thicknesses of soft paper, 
or black cotton velvet. It serves as a pad or 
cushion, and tends to press the paper up into 
a closer contact with the inequahties of the 
leaf, lace, or object used as a negative or 
cliche. Small printing frames can be pur- 
chased at a moderate sum, which will enable 
the experimenter to examine the progress of 



the work and ascertain when the print is 
sufficiently exposed to the action of the light. 
The exposure should continue until the image 
is much darker than intended when finished, 
as the after processes of toning and fixing 
reduce or bleach the pictures very considera- 
bly. As the prints are taken out of the frame, 
put them away in the dark again, until ready 
for the toning bath. 




3136. To Prepare a Picture for 
Toning and Fixing. It will now be 
necessary to tone and fix the picture, in order 
that the image be rendered pennanent. The 
first process is to soak the print in a dish of 
clear water for a few minutes, and thus wash 
off the free nitrate of silver remaining upon 
the surface of the paper. A half hour's soak- 
ing, with one or two changes of the water, 
will effect this so that it is ready for the ton- 
ing bath. 

3137. To Prepare a Toning Bath. 
Chloride of gold is sold in bottles containing 
15 grains. Dissolve this in 30 drachms of 
water, add a drop of hydrochloric acid, and 
preserve it as a stock solution in a bottle; 
mark this gold solution. Make in another 
bottle a saturated solution of washing soda, 
also as a stock solution; mark it as such: 
Soda solution. "When the prints have been 
washed as before directed, and are ready for 
toning, mix 1 drachm of the gold solution 
with 1 ounce of water, according to formula. 
Pour into a tray, and drop in a small piece of 
blue litmus paper ; it will become red. Een- 
der the bath alkaline by adding from the soda 
solution, drop by drop, until the paper begins 
to change blue again. It is better to prepare 
the toning bath during the day, while the 
printing is being done, as the bath seems to 
work with more smoothness and uniformity. 
It mav be used, however, so soon as mixed. 

3138. To Tone a Picture. The print 
is now taken by two comers and immersed in 
the gold or toning bath. At first the print 
will begin to bleach, and turn a warm red 
color, which soon changes into a beautiful 
warm black. Put in the prints one by one, 
keeping them separated or constantly in gen- 
tle motion, when the changes already spoken 
of will occur. "When a deep purple or warm 
black is obtained, remove them to a basin of 
clean water, and rinse them until all are toned, 
when they are ready for immersion in a fixing 
bath, to render them permanent. 



PHOTOaBAPHY. 



387 



3139. To Prepare a fixing Bath. 

Take water, 6 ounces ; hyposulphite of soda, 
1 ounce. This solution dissolves from the 
paper all of the chloride of silver that has not 
been acted upon by the light, but does not in- 
jure the picture or image. The usual time 
for leaving the print in this bath is about 15 
minutes. If the print is held up to transmit- 
ted light before it is placed in this solution, it 
will appear quite opaque and cloudy in what 
should be the clear parts of the picture. 
After the print has been in the bath the 
proper time this wiU disappear, and the print 
have a clear, translucent effect. The print 
should now be washed in 2 or 3 waters, and 
left to soak in a dish of water all night. In 
the morning it can be hung up to dry, and 
then mounted, as the taste of the experiment- 
er may suggest. If the saving of time is an 
object, the print, after coming from the fixing 
bath, can be rinsed in water and passed 
through a common clothes-wringer a few 
times, each time being dipped in clean water, 
when the print wiU be found to be perfectly 
washed. When properly fixed, as already 
described, they are to be washed, and finally 
mounted on card or bristol board. The best 
paste for this purpose is common laundry 
starch. 

3140. Precautions to be Observed in 
Making a Picture. T\^hen directions are 
given to prepare and keep the sensitive paper 
LQ a dark room, it should, of course, be under- 
stood that daylight only is to be excluded ; 
gas or candle light will do no harm. A window 
closely covered with yellow paper completely 
filters the light of all actinic or chemical 
power, and consequently wiU do no harm. 
Be careful that not a drop of the fixing solu- 
tion gets into the gold or toning bath. After 
the final process of fixing, take the greatest 
care that the prints do not again come into 
contact with the hyposulphite of soda. Soda 
is good — indispensable in its place, but ex- 
ceedingly harmful out of its place. So keep 
all the dishes and fingers free from it. In all 
of the manipulations, observe the most perfect 
neatness. Handle the prints with the tips of 
your fingers, and always with deliberation 
and care. If the silver solution grows weak 
by use — a mealy look to the prints indicates 
it — add a few grains of nitrate of silver. If 
by use it turns a dark wine color, and the 
paper is not white when dry, set the solution 
in clear sunlight for a day or two and it will 
clear. Filter before using again. The soda 
(fixing) bath should not be used more than 2 
or 3 times. Where prints are only occasion- 
ally made, a fresh bath should be made each 
time of printing. The gold (toning) bath 
works quicker when warmed to about blood 
heat. Prints will then tone in from 2 to 6 
minutes. Prints on plain paper will tone 
quicker than on albumenized. If prints are 
undertoned they will present a warm brown 
appearance; if toned too much, a cold steel 
color. A little experience will soon indicate 
the precise amount of toning required. 

3141. To Remove Nitrate of Silver 
Stains. An inevitable consequence of prac- 
ticing this process will be stains on the hands 
and clothing from the nitrate of silver. 
Moisten the spots with tincture of iodine, and 
then with a saturated solution of hyposul- 



phite of soda. Cyanide of potassium acts 
more energetically, but is a very dangerous 
poison, and is not recommended. 

3142. The Photographic Negative 
or Clich6. In number 3128 we have sta- 
ted the general principles of the photographic 
art; that it was based upon the fact that 
solar light decomposes certain combinations 
of the salts of silver ; that in proportion or to 
the extent that such sensitive surface is ex- 
posed to the action of light, so is the depth of 
the stain or intensity of the image upon the ' 
prepared paper. I^'ow if we should cut from 
an opaque or black piece of paper, any form 
or figure — an old fashioned s^Z/^owe^^e would be 
a familiar illustration — and place it upon the 
silvered paper, the precise image or fonn cut 
in the paper would, upon removal, be found 
upon the paper ; the paper remaining white 
under the figure leaf or "theorem," while the 
parts exposed to the light have turned black. 
In place of this figure, science has given us 
the Photographic Negative or Cliche. A 
negative is an image produced upon glass by 
a camera (an improved form of the old cam- 
era obscura) and derives its name from the 
fact that the image is reversed or negative by 
transmitted light (looking through it), the 
lights appearing dark, and the dark parts 
light. The chemicals used to produce it are 
also combinations of the salts of silver, but 
are so sensitive to the action of light, that 
they are decomposed instantaneously by ex- 
posure. The formulae wiU follow a descrip- 
tion of the process. 

3143. To Make a Photographic 
Negative. In a room illuminated only by a 
feeble gas or candle light, or by such daylight 
as is filtered of its chemical power through 
a sheet of yellow glass, a glass plate is care- 
fully flowed with collodion. (See No. 3149.) 
"When the plate has been evenly covered, the 
excess is quickly but deliherately returned to 
the bottle, and the plate gently and slowly 
swayed from side to side until the collodion is 
set, or when the surface is tacky to the touch. 
It is then placed on a dipper, and, with a 
steady, continuous motion, immersed, collo- 
dion side upwards, in the silver bath. (See 
No. 3150.) If the plate is stopped in its de- 
scent into the bath, a check or line will show 
across its face. In 3 to 5 minutes, depending 
upon temperature, etc., the plate is coated, 
or, in other words, the chemicals in the collo- 
dion have united with the nitrate of silver, 
forming the sensitive surface or coating, If 
not coated sufficiently the surface will appear 
greasy; in this case the plate must be returned 
to the bath until the film appears perfectly 
smooth. While this is being done it is sup- 
posed that the operator has adjusted the 
camera upon the object to be photographed 
by focussing his lens. This is done by turn- 
ing the lens in and out, or from and towards 
the ground glass of the camera, until the 
point is ascertained which gives the sharpest 
image upon the ground glass. All being 
ready, the operator returns to the dark roorrt 
for his sensitive plate. This is placed in a 
"holder," and the ground glass being re- 
moved, the holder is substituted in its place. 
The slide or cover to the holder is now with- 
drawn and the sensitive plate exposed to the 
action of the image of light thrown upon it by 



288 



PHOTOaBAPHY. 



the lens. After an exposure of 15 to 60 sec- 
onds, depending so much upon the intensity 
of the light that it can only be ascertatued by 
experience, the slide is replaced in the holder 
and the plate taken to the dark room for de- 
velopment. 

3144. To Develop a Negative. This 
is done by removing the plate from the hold- 
er, and, holding the plate in a horizontal po- 
sition, flowing it with the developing solu- 
tion. {See No. 3151.) If properly timed or 
exposed, the image begins to appear. When 
the details of the drapery, if a portrait, ap- 
pear and tlie solution seems to have lost its 
power, the plate is thoroughly washed under 
a stream of clean water. If the image is suf- 
ficiently strong and vigorous, it is " cleared^' 
by placing the plate in the fixing bath, and 
that portion of the film not acted upon by the 
light is dissolved away, leaving the image 
upon the glass. After a thorough washing 
in water, the plate is put in a rack to dry, 
after which it is slightly warmed and var- 
nished. 

3145. To Varnish a Negative. The 
varnish {see No. 3153) is flowed on and ofi" 
precisely as with the collodion. {See No. 
3143.) It should be again slightly warmed 
to prevent the varnish from chilling or bloom- 
ing. When dry, which will be in 5 to 10 
minutes, the negative is ready for use as de- 
scribed in ]^os. 3135, &c., using the negative 
instead of the leaf. Should the image have 
evidence of full exposure by the existence of 
all the proper detail, and yet want vigor or 
intensity, this may be imparted, before var- 
nishing, by re-development. 

3146. To Re-develop a Negative. 
This is done by pouring upon the plate about 
1 ounce of the pyrogaUic acid solution to 
which has been added 5 or 6 drops of the sil- 
ver solution designated for that purpose. {See 
No. 3152.) 

3147. Glass for Photography. For 
portraiture and ordinary landscape photo- 
graphy, the best qualities of picture or win- 
dow glass wiU suffice. There is an article 
sold by dealers in photographic materials, 
known as photographic or negative glass, 
which is selected for the purpose and cut into 
the regular sizes used in the art, viz., stereo- 
scopic, "quarter" size, "half" size, "four- 
four" &c., the latter being 65X8-I inches and 
the other sizes fractional parts, as their names 
suggest. For microscopic and scientific ex- 
periments, plate glass would be preferable. 
A quality known as " three quarter white " 
plate, and only of the thickness of ordinary 
single thick window glass, has all the requi- 
sites for exact photography. "When it is pro- 
posed to print photographs upon glass, for 
magic lanterns or transparencies, plate glass is 
absolutely essential. 

3148. To Prepare Glass for Photo- 
graphy. All new glass should be placed for 
a few minutes in a strong solution of com- 
mercial nitric acid (say 1 ounce nitric acid to 
3 ounces water), and then thoroughly washed 
in clean water. While wet, pour upon the 
glass a solution consisting of white of egg, 1 
ounce ; water, 20 ounces ; drain off" into a 
separate bottle, or clean, filter, and set up in a 
rack to dry. The albumen and water solution, 
before using, should be very thoroughly beaten 



together. After the froth has subsided, filter 
the solution through a clean sponge, two or 
three thicknesses of Hnen, or, still better, fil- 
tering paper. The solution above named will 
coat more plates than an amateur would be 
likely to use. Use fresh eggs and a newly 
made solution whenever coating plates. The 
plates so prepared will keep indefinitely. 

3149. Collodion for Photography. 
Collodion is the vehicle by which th6 photo- 
graphic chemicals are united upon the surface 
of the glass and the sensitive coating pro- 
duced. It is made by dissolving in equal 01 
nearly equal proportions of sulphuric ether 
and alcohol, gun cotton or pyroxyline together 
with certain salts of potassium, cadmium, 
ammonium, &c., in proportions named in the 
formulae. Many formulae are published for 
this article to which great value is attached, 
some supposing that to its peculiar composi- 
tion belong the principal causes of failure 01 
success. This is only in a degree true. In- 
ferior or carelessly prepared chemicals used in 
any stage of the process impair results. The 
writer has fixed as a general principle in the 
preparation of coUodion the proportion of 1 
grain of the exciting salts (in each ounce of 
collodion), to every 10 grains of silver in the 
bath. To illustrate : If the silver bath solu- 
tion is at 50°, or, more definitely, 50 grains of 
silver to each ounce of water, we would make 
the collodion so as to contain in each ounce 
of collodion 5 grains of the various salts of 
cadmium, ammonium, &c.; or another way of 
putting it, the bath should be ten times as 
strong as the coUodion. The sensitizing salts 
should be selected with a special reference to 
the peculiarities of the light or subjects. It 
can be made under one formula to cover 
almost all emergencies ; yet special kinds of 
work for extremes of light or shadow can be 
improved by varying the combinations of the 
exciting or sensitizing salts. For portraiture 
in a room of evenly diflused light the iodide 
of cadmium as the principal excitant gives 
softness and delicacy to the image. Thus : 

I. Take of sulphuric ether, 1 ounce; 95 per 
cent, alcohol, 1 ounce ; gun cotton, 6 grains ; 
iodide of cadmium, 4 grains ; bromide of cad- 
mium, 2 grains. 

II. Sulphuric ether, 1 ounce ; alcohol, 1 
ounce ; gun cotton, 6 grains ; iodide of cad- 
mium, 3^ grains; bromide of potassium. 2^ 
grains. 

These two formulae give the utmost deli- 
cacy and transparency to the shadows, and 
work with rapidity, when preserving their 
proper relations to the silver bath solution, of 
which we speak in the proper place. If more 
brightness is desired to the image, instead_ of 
the iodide of cadmium put the same quantity 
of iodide of ammonium. If still greater con- 
trasts are required, use iodide of potassium in 
place of either the cadmium or potassium. 
The latter is favorable for copying engravings, 
maps, plans, &c., in which strong contrasts 
of white and black are desirable. It is well 
to prepare from all these formulae and then 
modify results by mixing them together as 
the subjects or light may demand. Farther 
combinations may be suggested; under a 
feeble light, or where there are large masses of 
shadow, reduce the amount of the iodide salt 
one grain and increase the bromide one grain. 



FMOTOGBAPHY. 



289 



la Combining the Ingredients, measnre 
put the required quantitj of alcohol, and to 
it add the gun cotton and such of the exciting 
salts as dissolve in alcohol, and lastly the 
ether. Shake until all are thoroughly dis- 
solved, and put aside over night to settle. 
When clear, decant into the flowing or coating 
bottle for use. Such of the excitants as do 
not dissolve in alcohol should be dissolved in 
ae small a quantity of water as is possible and 
added to the alcohol, &c.. a little at a time, and 
quickly shaken. 

8150. Silver Bath. Make a solution in 
the proportion of GO grains nitrate of silver to 
1 ounce water. Test the solution with litmus 
paper, and if slightly alkaline, or neutral, add 
nitric acid to produce a faint red reaction to 
the paper. The best method is to add a few 
drops of chemically pure nitric acid to an 
ounce of water, and add this solution to the 
silver bath a venj few drops at a time. Then 
coat a plate with collodion and let it remain 
in the bath all night. The freshly made col- 
lodion can be used for this purpose, and thus 
both collodion and silver solution or bath be 
made ready for work at the same time. 

3151. Developing Solution. This 
may be madje in stock solution of the simple 
sulphate of iron and water, and then reduced 
in strength and made ready for use each day. 
For the stock solution take water, 16 ounces ; 
sulphate of iron, 4 ounces. Dissolve and fil- 
ter. "When wanted for use, take stock solu- 
tion, 1 ounce ; water, 4 ounces ; acetic acid 
(iSTo. 8), i ounce. The addition of about i 
ounce alcohol to the above formula often faci- 
litates the smooth flowing of the solution on 
the plate. It is particularly essential when 
the bath has been in long use and is " satu- 
rated" with ether and alcohol from the plates. 

3152. Re-developing Solution, for 
adding vigor and intensity to the negative, is 
made of water, 1 ounce; pyrogalhc acid, 1 
grain ; citric acid, 1 grain. Pour into a small 
beaker or cupping glass about 1 ounce of this 
solution, and add, by means of a pipette, 5 or 
6 drops of a solution of 20 grains nitrate of 
silver dissolved in 1 ounce water. Imme- 
diately flow this solution over the plate, occa- 
sionally returning the solution to the little 
beaker glass. As soon as the solution begins 
to assume a wine color, it is acting with vigor 
on the negative and should be closely watched, 
that the negative does not become too intense. 
When sufficiently dense, throw away the solu- 
tion and thoroughly wash both the negative 
and the glass. The latter should always be 
kept perfectly clean and free from any deposit 
from the re-developing solutions. 

3153. Negative Varnish, of excellent 
(juality can always be secured at the dealers 
in photographic materials. In an emergency 
common shellac varnish, somewhat thinned 
down with alcohol, and filtered through cotton, 
will answer the purpose. (See No. 2935.) 

3154. The Causes of Failure would 
almost require a chapter by themselves; a long 
experience convinces us that nine out of every 
ten failm'es occur from a want of care, the 
presence of dirt, negligence. One cannot be 
over-nice, careful or cleanly — the best results 
always rewarding the most painstaking. 

3155. To Enamel Cameo Pictures. 
Ordinary well poHshed glass plates are coated 



with normal collodion of the usual descrip- 
tion, and when the film has set perfectly,, but 
has not become completely dry, the pictures, 
which have previously been trimmed and 
finished, are dipped rapidly into alcohol, and 
applied without delay to the plates. The 
prints are pressed and rubbed down with 
smooth writing paper, and the operation of 
mounting is proceeded with as soon as the 
backs of the pictures have become white; or,,( 
in other words, as soon as the alcohol has 
again evaporated. The cardboard should be' 
allowed to remain in water for at least half an' 
hour previously to its being employed for 
mounting. The more rapidly the pictures are 
applied and pressed upon the collodion sur- 
face, the more beautiful will be the finished 
result. 

3156. Photographic Impressions 
With Fuchsine. A piece of linen goods 
colored with fuchsine, and dried, was exposed 
to the light under a photographic negative, 
when the image of the plate became visible 
on the goods, the picture looking greyish and 
faded where the lights were strongest. Still 
the picture was rather weak, and the goods 
were soaked for 2 days in a bath of sulphate of 
copper, when the picture was found to be 
more developed. After several rinsings in 
water, and two days' exposure on the gi-ass, 
the rest of the goods were bleached white, 
leaving the picture of a pure violet tint on a 
white background. 

3157. Tapioca Paper. To prepare 
tapioca paper, which is very useful for copy- 
ing photographs by artificial light, 200' 
grammes (62 Troy ounces) of tapioca are 
soaked for 2 days in an equal weight of wa- 
ter ; 10 Ktres (about 21 pints) of water are 
added, and afterwards, for every litre (quart) 
of liquid, 10 grammes (154 grains) iodide of 
potassium, 30 grammes (463 grains) chloride of 
potassium, 1 gramme (15^ grains) bromide of 
potassium, are dissolved, and the whole 
l3oiled for 10 minutes, allowed to stand for a 
day, and decanted and filtered through fine 
linen. The paper is immersed, 12 or 20 sheets 
at a time — or can be floated upon it — for 15 
to 20 minutes ; it is then hung up to dry in a 
dark room. If it has assumed a dark color, 
that is of no consequence, as it disappears in 
the silver bath. This is to be prepared in the 
proportion of 1 ounce nitrate of silver, 50 to 
60 grains of citric acid in 30 ounces of water. 
The time of exposure varies from 10 seconds 
to 25 minutes, according to the picture to be 
copied and the actinic force of the light. 

3158. To Recover Gold and Silver 
from Photographic Solutions. The 
silver and gold waste that result from photo- 
graphic operations are best collected in a 
large bottle or jar, together with anything 
else that might contain either of the two 
metals. When the bottle is nearly full, pour 
a Httle hydrochloric acid and a solution of 
green sulphate of iron (copperas) into it, 
and let it stand on a warm place until the 
supernatant liquid appears perfectly clear. 
Add then a few drops more of the hydrochloric 
acid and iron solution, and observe whether a 
fresh precipitate forms or not. In the latter 
case, draw the clear liquid off by means of 
a syphon, and reserve the residue. If the 
bottle has become partially fiUed in course of 



290 



PHOTOGEAPSY. 



time with insoluble cMoride of silver and 
metallic gold, place the residue on a jBilter, 
wash it with very dilute acid, and, lastly, 
with water. After drying, it is to be mixed 
with several times its weight of dry carbonate 
of soda, the whole conveyed to a crucible, and 
the latter heated to a bright red heat, and 
kept there for about 10 minutes. After taking 
the crucible out of the fire, and allowing it to 
grow cold, it is broken, the button of the 
alloy of gold and silver cleaned, and heated in 
a suitable vessel with dilute nitric acid, which 
will dissolve all the silver, as nitrate of silver, 
and leave the gold in a finely divided state. 
This is dissolved by nitro-hydrochloric acid 
(aqua regia). It is hardly necessary to say 
that, for photographic purposes, both solutions 
must be evaporated in a water-bath until the 
excess of acid has been volatilized, when they 
may be diluted with a sufficient amount of 
water, and used. {See No. 3166.) 

3159. Simple Method of Copying 
Drawings, Etc. Silvered albumen paper, 
after being washed, may be conveniently 
used for copying negatives as well as posi- 
tives. It keeps for weeks, and becomes 
sensitive to light only after exposure to the 
vapors of aqua ammonia, technically termed 
smoking with ammonia. Dr. H. Yogel has 
greatly simplified the latter process by substi- 
tuting for the liquid ammonia the powder of 
carbonate of ammonia. He thoroughly im- 
pregnates a piece of felt or cloth with this 
powder, and lays it under the silvered sheet, 
separated from it by a piece of blotting-paper. 
He places the silvered paper, with the sub- 
stratum of carbonate of ammonia and the 
drawing on top, between two plates of glass, 
and, exposing it to the light of the window, 
obtains a copy quite distinct in all its details. 
The copy obtained is, of course, in white lines 
upon black ground. Such photographs re- 
quire to be treated with soda when intended 
for long preservation. 

3160. Lea's Solution for Cleaning 
Photographic Glasses. Water, 1 pint; 
sulphuric acid, \ ounce ; bichromate potash, 
I ounce. The glass plates, varnished or 
otherwise, are left, say 10 or 12 hours, or as 
much longer as desired, in this solution, and 
then rinsed in clean water, and wiped or 
rubbed dry with soft white paper. This pre- 
paration is by Mr. Carey Lea, of Philadelphia, 
and is said to be the best in use. It quickly 
removes silver stains from the skin without 
any of the attendant dangers of the cyanide 
of potassium. 

3161. Wenderoth's Photographic 
Varnish. E'early all photographic varnishes 
reduce the intensity of the negative. Mr. F. 
A. "Wenderoth, of Philadelphia, states that if 
a thin solution of gum-arabic is applied to the 
negative after fixing and before drying, the 
varnish will not afl"ect the intensity. This is 
a very simple and useful remedy. Mr. "Wen- 
deroth also states that he has long practiced 
the covering of photographic paper prints 
upon both sides with collodion varnish, and 
finds it a complete preservative of the picture. 
Nearly all photographs will fade away in a 
few years unless thus protected. 

3i62. Collodion Varnish for Photo- 
graphic Prints. A very eff'ective and 
agreeable polish is communicated to card or 



cabinet prints, etc., simply by coating them 
with a glutinous plain coUodion, made as 
follows : Alcohol, 3 ounces ; ether, 4 ounces ; 
pyroxyline, 42 grains. Dissolve and filter in 
the usual manner. The prints are first cut 
to the proper size and floated on the reverse 
side upon clean water until they lie perfectly 
flat ; then take one print at a time and place 
it on a piece of glass of the same size as itself, 
moist side downwards ; it easily adheres to 
the glass. Let the excess of water drain ofl^ 
and remove all moisture from the picture 
surface ; now coat it with the collodion and 
let it drain in the usual way, then dry it be- 
fore the fire or in any manner which is most 
convenient. This polish is not so flagrant on 
the one hand as the so-called enamel surface, 
nor so dead as an ordinarj^ albumen print that 
has undergone all the operations up to the 
mounting. 

3163. Preservation of Photographs. 
H. Cooper, Jr., of England, gives the follow- 
ing formula for a preservative varnish which 
is stated to be an entire protection against 
fading : 1 drachm gum damar dissolved in 1 
ounce benzole. 1 drachm paraffine, dissolved 
in 1 ounce benzole. Mix 4 parts of the 
paraffine solution with 1 part of the damar 
solution. Photographic prints covered with 
this varnish are impermeable to water. A 
solution of the paraffine only will do ; but it 
is better with the gum damar. 

3164. Everlasting Photographs on 
Enamel. First-class photographs, either 
negatives or positives, may be taken on 
Duchemin's enamel {see No. 2402) without 
collodion, by using bitumen, or citrate of 
iron, or perchloride of iron and tartaric acid, 
or bichromate, or any other salt. A good 
solution for this purpose is, water, 100 parts 
by weight ; gum, 4 parts ; honey, 1 part ; 
pulverized bichromate of potash, 3 parts 
Filter the liquid, spread it over the enamel, 
and let it rest, after which, expose it to the 
camera. Develop the image by brushing 
over it the following powder : Oxide of cobalt, 
180 parts by weight ; black oxide of iron, 90 
parts; red lead, 100 parts; sand, 30 parts. 
Decompose the bichromate by immersion in a 
bath formed of water, 100 parts by weight ; 
hydrochloric acid, 5 parts. Wash it in clean 
water and dry it ; and lastly, vitrefy the proof 
on a clean piece of cast iron, the surface of 
which has been previously chalked. One 
minute will suffice for indelibly fixing and 
glazing the photograph, which must be care- 
fully and slowly allowed to cool. Photo- 
graphs on enamel of any size, taken in this 
manner, are perfectly unalterable under all 
atmospheric conditions, and may consequently 
and aptly be called everlasting photographs. 

3165. Searing's Process for Photo- 
graphing on Wood for Engraving. 
The block on which the picture is to be made 
is first dampened with water, then whitened 
with enamel rubbed from the surface of good 
enameled visiting cards. Kub gently,^ re- 
moving only the enamel, after which it is 
brushed smooth with a moderately stifi" brush, 
from right to left and up and down, making a 
smooth, even, and very thin surface. Allow 
this to dry, after which it is flowed with a 
solution of albumen, made with the white of 
1 egg and 16 ounces of water, dried by heat 



V R OTOaiiAP H Y 



291 



or Allowed to dry spontaneous!}'. N'ow coat 
it Avith another albumen solution made as 
follows: White of 1 egg: water, 4 ounces; 
chloride of ammonia, 40 grains. Beat the 
whole to a thick froth. Allow to subside, 
then decant or filter through a fine sponge 
placed in a glass funnel. Pour a sufficient 
quantity on one corner of the block to cover 
it, when spread around with the aid of a ^ or 
4 glass (using the edge). Allow the surplus 
solution to drain back into the bottle. Dry 
this by a gentle heat. Xcxt flow on, in the 
dark room, solution Xo. 3, prepared as fol- 
lows: Ether, 1 ounce; alcohol, 1 ounce; 
gun-cotton, 8 grains ; nitrate of silver, 30 
grains; dissolve in as small a quantity of wa- 
ter as possible, and allow to settle for a few 
days, protected from the light. Again dry 
the block by gentle heat. It is now ready for 
exposure under the negative. A porcelain 
printing-frame, or any other suitable method, 
may be used to print it. After printing, 
solution i^o. 3 is removed from the surface of 
the block by dissolving in ether and alcohol, 
assisted by rubbing gently with a soft sponge. 
The picture can now be' toned and fixed in 
the ordinary way, or fixed and toned at one 
operation, by the hypo and gold bath. After 
being allowed to dry, it is ready for the 
engraver. 

31 66. To Recover Silver from Photo- 
graphic Waste. To obtain the silver from 
a photographic bath, or from the rejected 
photographs and clippings, is a most im- 
portant measure of economy in the art. The 
bath should be filtered, and a solution of 
common salt added ; this precipitates chloride 
of silver, which is to be collected on a filter, 
dried, and washed; then the metallic silver 
may be obtained from it by the action of 
metallic zinc, a strip of which being placed in 
the pulpy mass, will combine with the 
chloride, and leave the silver in a spongy 
mass of a gray color ; after washing, this may 
be dissolved in nitric acid and crystallized. 
Another process is to mix the chloride with 
nitrate of potassa and fuse in a crucible — the 
silver is thus obtained in a button. The 
papers must be incinerated, the ashes collect- 
ed and treated with nitric acid and heat; 
diluted with water, and filtered ; it is now 
an impure solution of silver, to be treated in 
the same wav as the bath. {See Xo. 3158.) 

3167. To Clean off Collodion Pic- 
tures. A tuft of cotton dipped in methylic 
alcohol, and rubbed over the surface of the 
picture, will remove it entirely, whether var- 
nished or not. 

3168. Paper for Photography. The 
paper used for photography may be the finest 
4satin post paper, of uniform ^ texture, free 
from the maker^s mark^ specks, and all im- 
perfections. The papers inust be prepared by 
candle-light, and kept in the dark till used. 

3169. Simple Nitrated Paper. This 
is merely paper brushed over with a strong 
solution of nitrate of silver. In brushing 
over the paper it must not be crossed. Its 
sensitiveness is increased by using spirits of 
wine instead of water. This paper only 
requires washing in water to fix the drawing. 

3170. Muriated Paper. The paper is 
first soaked in solution of common salt, 
pressed with a linen cloth or blotting-paper, 



and dried. It is then brushed over on one 
side (which should be marked near the edge) 
with the solution of nitrate of silver, and 
dried at the fire. The stnmger the solution, 
the more sensitive the paper. If the barytic 
solution {see No. 3181) be used instead of 
common salt, richer shades of color are ob- 
tained. A solution of 10 grains sal ammoniac 
in 1 ounce water gives a very sensitive paper. 
A due proportion must be observed in the 
silver and salt solutions, as follows : 

Sensitive paper for the camera, use 50 
grains common salt to 1 ounce water ; and 
120 grains nitrate of silver to 1 ounce water. 
Or: 60 grains of the nitrate with 40 grains 
muriate of ammonia, and 4 ounces water. 
Or: 100 grains nitrate with the barytic solu- 
tion. {See No. ^IS\.) 

Less sensitive, for copying engravings, 
botanical and entomological specimens, &c. 
The salt solution to contain 25 grains salt to 
1 ounce water. The silver solution 90 grains 
in 1 ounce water. 

For copying lace-work, feathers, patterns, &c. 
The salt solution, 20 grains ; the silver solu- 
tion, 40 grains to 1 ounce. To fix the draw- 
ing on these papers, they must be first washed 
in lukewarm water, then dipped twice in 
solution of hyposulphite of soda (1 ounce to 1 
pint), then in pure water, and dried. 

3171. Iodized Paper. Brush over the 
paper on one side (which should be marked) 
with strong solution of nitrate of silver (100 
grains to 1 ounce); then dip it in solution of 
iodide of potassium (25 grains to 1 ounce) ; 
wash it in distilled water, dram, and dry it. 

3172. Bromide Paper. Soak the paper 
in solution of bromide of potassium (40 gi-ains 
to 1 ounce) ; then brush it over with strong 
solution of nitrate of silver, and dry in the 
dark. 

3173. Chromatype Paper. Simple 
chromatype paper is prepared as follows : 
Soak the paper in the simple solution {see No. 
3182), and dry it at a brisk fii:e. To fix the 
drawing, careful immersion in warm water is 
aU that is required. It is not sufficiently 
sensitive for the camera. 

For Compound Chromatype Paper. 
"Wash the paper with the compound solution 
{see No. 3182), and dry it. After the paper 
has been exposed to the sun with the article 
to be copied superposed upon it, it is washed 
over m the dark with a solution of nitrate of 
silver of moderate strength. A vivid picture 
makes its appearance, which is sufficiently 
fixed by washing in pure water. For copying 
engravings, &c. Another method is to brush 
writing paper over with a solution of 1 drachm 
of sulphate of copper in 1 ounce of water; 
and when dry, with a strong but not saturated 
solution of bichromate of potash. 

3174. Cyanotype Paper. Brush the 
paper over with a solution of ammonio -citrate 
of iron. Expose the paper in the usual way, 
then wash it over with & solution of ferro- 
cyanide of potassium. 

3175. Crvsotype Paper. Wash the 
paper with solution of ammcmio-citrate of 
iron, dry it, and afterwards brush it over with 
a solution of ferrocyanide of potassium. Dry 
it in a dark room. 'Tbe image is brought out 
by brushing it ove) «r\t\i a neutral ftOiUcion of 
gold or of silver. 



29^ 



METALS. 



3176. Calotype Paper. The paper is 
saturated in 1 ounce water, containing 20 
grains iodide of potassium, and dried. Then 
made sensitive by soaking in 1 ounce distilled 
water containing 20 grains nitrate of silver 
and 2 drachm glacial acetic acid, and dried in 
a dark room. 

3177. Instantaneous Positive Paper. 
Mix 6 drachms of a saturated solution of 
bichloride of mercury with 1 pint distilled wa- 
ter. Float the paper on this solution in a 
flat dish. Dry it ; take into a dark place lit 
hj a candle with a yellow glass, and render it 
sensitive by a solution of 38 grains nitrate of 
silver to I ounce water. To print, expose to 
a perpendicular light from 2 to 10 seconds in 
summer, about 1 minute in winter; then 
immediately cover with a black cloth. The 
image, at first very feeble, is developed by 
this solution ; sulphate of iron, 15 grains ; 
glacial acetic acid, 25 grains ; distilled water, 
1 ounce. The deepening of tint must be 
watched, and arrested at the proper moment. 
Then wash, and fix with hyposulphite. 

3178. Albumenized Paper for Posi- 
tive Printing. White of ^gg, and water, 
equal parts ; iodide of potassium or chloride 
of sodium, 5 grains to 1 ounce water (or bro- 
mide of potassium, 20 grains). Coat the paper 
with this solution. Dry. Immerse in the 
dark in bath of 120 grains nitrate of silver to 
1 ounce water. Dry again. This is exposed 
with the negative over it, for 10 to 15 minutes. 

3179. Prepared Wax Paper. Make 
a strong size by digesting 25 parts gelatine, 
50 of linseed, and 150 of rice flour, in 2000 to 
3000 parts hot water. Filter through a cloth. 
Take of this size, when cold, 1000 parts by 
weight, and dissolve in it sugar of milk, 50 
parts: iodide of potassium, 35; bromide of 
potassium, 5 parts. 

3180. Artificial Ivory for Photo- 
graphers. Sheets or tablets of gelatine or 
glue are immersed in a solution of alumina. 
"When entirely penetrated by the alumina, the 
slabs are to be removed, dried, and polished 
like ivory. {May all.) 

3181." Bary tic Photographic Solution. 
Dissolve 35 grains chloride of barium in 2 
ounces distilled water. 

3182. Chr ornate Photographic Solu- 
tions. Simple chr ornate solution is a sat- 
urated solution of bichromate of potash; a 
little sulphate of indigo being sometimes add- 
ed to vary the color. 

The compound chromate solution consists 
of 10 grains bichromate of potash, and 20 
grains sulphate of copper, dissolved in 1 ounce 
distilled water. 

3183. Hydriodate of Iron and Bary- 
tes Photographic Solution. Hydriodate 
of barytes, 40 grains; water, 1 ounce; pure 
sulphate of iron, 5 grains ; mix, filter, add a 
drop or two diluted sulphuric acid, and when 
settled decant the clear liquor for use. 

3184. Hardwich's Gold Toning Bath 
for Positive Printing. Pure chloride of 
gold, 1 grain; hyposulphite of soda, 1 to 3 
grains; hydrochloric acid, 4 minims; water, 4 
ounces. 

3185. Mayall's Method of Cleaning 
Photographic Glasses. Shake up together 
30 parts alcohol, 10 parts strong liquid am- 
monia, 40 parts water, and 30 parts fine Tri- 



poli. The plates are to be rubbed hard and 
evenly with balls of cotton-wool dipped in 
the mixture. When dry, rub again with a 
clean ball of cotton, and dust off' the back 
and edges with a clean hog's-hair brush. 



Metals. Metals are elementary or 
undecompounded bodies, which are 
distinguished by their weight, lustre, fusibility, 
power of conducting heat, electricity, &c. 
(see Nos. 3349 to 3357 inclusive), and the 
numerous compounds which they furnish by 
combination with one another, and with other 
bodies. "When their solutions are decomposed 
by a galvanic current, the metals always ap- 
pear at the electro-negative surface, and are 
hence termed electro-positive bodies. 

3187. Assaying. The method of de- 
termining the quantity of pure gold and silver 
in the alloys of these metals. This art re- 
quires great skill and experience m its per- 
formance ; and, from the costliness of the 
precious metals, is of the utmost importance. 
A downward draught furnace of any shape 
and size may be employed, provided it will 
afford a sufficient heat, and allow the intro 
duction of the muffle. The muffle is a pot 
made of clay, and furnished with an opening 
at its end, to admit the introduction of the 
cupels, and to allow of inspection of the pro- 
cess. It is placed on the muffle-plate, by 
which it is introduced into the furnace. The 
cupel IS a sort of shallow crucible, made of 
bone ashes or burnt bones. At the British 
mint the cupels are made of the calcined cores 
of ox-horns. The powder is slightly moisten- 
ed with water, and a circular steel mould is 
filled therewith, and after being pressed down 
tight, is finished off' with a rammer, having a 
convex face of polished steel, which is stnick 
forcibly with a mallet, until the mass becomes 
sufficiently hard and adherent. The cupel is 
then carefully removed, and exposed in the 
air to dry, which usually takes from 14 to 21 
days. The muffle, with the cupels properly 
arranged, being placed in the furnace, the lat- 
ter is filled up with charcoal, and lighted at 
the top by placing a few pieces, heated to 
whiteness, on last. "When the cupels have 
been exposed for half an hour, and have be- 
come white by heat, the lead is put into them 
by means of a pair of tongs, and as soon as 
this becomes thoroughly red and circulating, 
as it is called, the metal to be assayed, wrap- 
ped in a small piece of paper, is added, and 
the fire kept up strongly until the metal enters 
the lead, and circulates well, when the heat 
may be slightly diminished, and so regulated 
that the assay shall appear convex and ardent, 
while the cupel is less red — that the undula- 
tions shall circulate in all directions, and that 
the middle of the metal shall appear smooth, 
surrounded with a small circle of litharge, 
which is being continually absorbed by the 
cupel. This treatment must be continued 
until the metal becomes bright and shining, 
or is said to "lighten;'' after which certain 
prismatic colors, or rainbow hues, suddenly 
flash across the globules, and undulate and 
cross each other, and the latter metal soon 
after appears very brilliant and clear, and at 
length becomes fixed and solid. This is called 



GOLD. 



293 



the ''brightening/' and shows that the separa- 
tion is ended. In conducting this process, all 
the materials used must be accurately weigh- 
ed, especially the weight of the alloy before 
cupellation, and the resulting button of pure 
metal. The difference gives the quantity of 
alloy. The preceding general description of 
the process of cupellation will render the fol- 
lowing articles intelligible, without again en- 
tering into the minutite of the operation. An 
assay is thought to be good when the bead is 
of a round form, with its upper surface bril- 
liant, its lower one granular and dead- white, 
and when it separates readily from the cupel. 
"WTien the surface of the bead is dull and flat, 
it shows that too much heat has been em- 
ployed ; and if the metal be silver, some may 
have been lost in the process, by fuming or 
absorpti(m. TVTien the bead is spongy, and 
of various colors, and scales of litharge still 
remain on the cupel, and the metal adheres 
strongly to the latter, too little heat has been 
used, and the button still retains some lead. 
To remedy this, the heat should be raised, and 
a little powdered charcoal, or a few small 
pieces of paper, thrown into the cupel, until 
the metal again begins to circulate freely. It 
is necessary that the lead employed in the 
process of cupellation should be perfectly 
pure. It ought, therefore, to be procured by 
reducing refined litharge. {Cooleij.) 

3 1 88. Puscher's Solution for Coloring 
IVCetals. This is a new method of giving 
metals a durable colored coating, and can be 
executed quickly and cheaply. To prepare 
the solution dissolve 11 ounces hyposulphite 
of soda in 1 pound water, and add I5 ounces 
acetate of lead dissolved in 5 pound of water. 
"When this clear solution is heated to 190° to 
210° Fahr., it decomposes slowly, and precip- 
itates sulphide of lead in brown flocks. If 
metal is now immersed in it a part of the sul- 
phide of lead is deposited thereon, and accord- 
ing to the length of time and consequent 
thickness of the deposited sulphide of lead, 
the various and beautiful lustre colors are pro- 
duced. In 5 minutes there may be imparted 
to hrass articles a color varying from a beau- 
tiful gold to a copper red ; then carmine red ; 
then dark, then light aniline blue, to a blue 
white, like sulphide of lead; and at last a 
reddiish white, according to the length of time 
they remain in the solution used. The colors 
possess the most beautiful lustre, and if the 
articles to be colored have been previously 
thoroughly cleaned by means of acids and 
alkalies, they adhere so firmly that they may 
be operated upon by the polishing steel. To 
produce an even coloring, the articles to be 
colored must be evenly heated. 

Iron treated with this solution takes a steel 
blue color ; zinc, a brown color ; in the case 
of copper objects the first gold color does not 
appear ; lead and zinc are entirely indifferent. 

If, instead of the acetate of lead, an equal 
weight of sulphuric acid be added to the hypo- 
sulphite of soda, and the process carried on 
as before, the brass is covered with a very \ 
beautiful red, which is followed by a green, 
and changes finally to a splendid brown with 
green and red iris-glitter ; this last is a very 
durable coating, and may find special atten- 
tion in manufactures. {See No. 3313.) 

Yery beautiful marbleized designs can be 



produced by using a lead solution thickened 
with gum tragacanth on brass which has 
been heated to 210° Fahr., and afterwards 
treated by the usual solution of sulphide of 
lead. The solution may be used several 
times, and is not liable to spontai^ieous change. 



Gold. The most marked properties of 
metallic gold are its ductility, malleabil- 
ity, and insolubility in all menstrua, except 
aqua regia and aqueous chlorine, and its slight 
affinity for oxygen. iSTative gold has a spe- 
cific gravity of 13.3 to 17.7 ; pure gold, about 
19.3; its greatest density is 19.5. Its fu- 
sing point is 2016° Fahr. It is characterized 
by its yellow color, its insolubility in nitric 
acid, and ready solution in nitromuriatic acid 
(aqua regia), forming a yellow liquid that 
stains the skin purple. 

3190. Assay of Gold by the Use of 
Touch-Stones. When it is desired to as- 
certain the fineness of small quantities of 
gold, as in jewelry, (fee, touch-needles and 
stones are employed. The former are made 
in sets, containing gold of different fineness 
and differently alloyed with copper and sil- 
ver. Pieces of black pottery form excellent 
touch-stones. The mode of using them is to 
mark the stone with the sample under exam- 
ination, and to compare its appearance, hard 
ness, <fec., with that produced by one or more 
of the needles. When the two are similar, 
the quality is considered to be the same. 
They are then further examined by moisten- 
ing the stroke with aquafortis when red hot, 
when the appearances resulting from oxida- 
tion, etc., differ according to the nature and 
quantity of the alloy. 

3191. Assay of Gold by Cupellation. 
This process is divided into five operations. 

Cupellation. Either 6 or 12 grains of the 
alloy is the weight usually taken for the assay, 
to which is added 16 parts of lead for every 1 
part of copper that it is presumed to contain, 
though considerably more lead may be used 
when the sample does not contain any silver ; 
but if the reverse be the case, an excess of 
lead would tend to the loss of the lattel 
metal, which ought not to be separated until 
the operation of parting. When silver is 
present an additional allowance of lead, equal 
to iV of its weight, is made on that account. 
When, however, the quantity of silver is 
small, or is not required to be estimated, it 
becomes of little consequence what weight of 
lead is employed, so long as enough be used 
to carry off the base metals, at the same time 
that the quantity is not too large for the 
cupel. The sample is then submitted to cu- 
pellation. This process does not require so 
much care for gold as silver, as none of this 
metal is absorbed by the cupel, or lost by 
evaporation, and it wiU safely bear the high- 
est heat of the furnace without injury. In 
other respects the operation may be conduct- 
ed in exactly the same manner as for silver. 
{See No. 3206.) 

Quartation. After gold has passed the 
cupel, it may still retain either of the other 
perfect metals, particularly silver. To re- 
move the latter it undergoes the operations 
of quartation and parting. Quartation is 



294. 



GOLD 



performed by adding 3 parts of silver to one 
of the cupelled sample, and fusing them to- 
gether, by which the gold is reduced to one 
fourth of the mass, or even less; hence the 
name. In this state nitric acid will dissolve 
out the silver, which brings us to the next 
operation. In many cases the operation of 
quartation is performed conjointly with that 
of cupellation. 

Parting. The alloy of gold and silver 
formed by quartation is next hammered or 
rolled out into a thin strip or leaf, curled up 
into a spiral form, and submitted to the ac- 
tion of nitric acid, specific gravity 1.3, dilu- 
ted with half its weight of water ; this being 
poured off, another quantity of acid, of about 
1.26, and undiluted, may be employed. In 
each case the acid should be boiled upon the 
alloy for about a quarter of an hour. In the 
first case the quantity of fluid should be about 
2i ounces, and in the second 1 k ounces. The 
second part of the operation of parting is 
called the reprise. If the acid be used too 
strong it leaves the gold in a state of powder, 
otherwise the metal preserves its form 
throughout the process of parting. It is next 
carefully collected, washed, and dried. 

Annealing. The sample of pure gold has 
now only to be annealed, which is done by 
putting it into a small porous crucible, and 
heating it to redness in the muffle. 

Weighing. The pure gold is next accurate- 
ly weighed. This weight doubled (if 12 
grains are under assay), or quadrupled (if 6 
grains), gives the number of carats fine of the 
alloy examined, without calculation. The 
loss of weight by cupellation gives the 
amount of copper in the sample; that after 
parting, the amount of silver, deducting, of 
course, the weight of silver used in the pro- 
cess, which is called the witness. "When 
the sample contains but very little gold, the 
dry method of assaying cannot be depended 
on, and chemical analysis must be had re- 
course to. (Cooley.) 

3192. Assay of Gold by Chemical 
Analysis. The richness of gold in any sub- 
stance, whether liquid or solid, especially 
where the quantity is small, is most easily 
obtained by chemical analysis. The gold is 
thrown down from its solution by adding a 
solution of protosulphate of iron ; the precip- 
itate, after being washed, dried and gently 
heated, may be weighed as pure gold. 

If 100 grains of the substance or liquid 
under test be taken for examination, the 
weight in grains of the dried precipitate will 
give the percentage of gold contained in the 
sample. 

3193. To Obtain Gold Chemically 
Pure. Dissolve gold in nitromuriatic acid 
(a mixture of 1 part nitric acid with 2 parts 
muriatic acid, and called aquaregia) ; by add- 
ing to the gold solution a solution of proto- 
sulphate of iron, the pure gold is precipitated 
in the form of a brown powder, which should 
be thoroughly washed to free it from acid, 
and then dried. In this form it is ready to 
mix by fusion with other metals ; or the pow- 
der can be reduced to solid metallic form by 
melting in a crucible, with a charcoal fire, 
sprinkling occasionally into the crucible a 
little saltpetre and potash as a flux. The 
gold will form a button at the bottom. 



3194. Grain Gold. Cupelled gold, 1 
part ; silver, 3 parts ; melt and pour in a small 
stream into water; dissolve out the silver 
with nitric acid, and heat the grains to red- 
ness. Used to make preparations of gold. 

3195. Liquid Gold. Agitate ether 
with a solution of terchloride of gold for some 
time, allow it to repose, and decant the su- 
pernatant portion. JlSTaphtha and essential 
oils possess the same property as ether, of 
taking gold from its solutions. This liquid 
was formerly held in great esteem as a cor- 
dial medicine. It is now only employed for 
writing on steel, gilding, &c. As it dries^ 
it leaves a coating of pure gold. (See No. 
3585.) 

3196. To Make Watch Hands Red. 
Mix to a paste over a lamp, 1 ounce carmine, 
1 ounce chloride of silver, and h ounce tinners' 
japan. Put some of the paste on the hands^ 
and lay them face upwards on a sheet of cop- 
per, holding it over a spirit lamp until the de- 
sired color appears on them. 

3197. French Method for Coloring- 
Gold. A solution is made of 2 parts nitre, 
1 part Eoman alum, and 1 of sea salt. The 
jewels or articles of gold are kept in the solu- 
tion at a boiling point for from 15 to 25 min- 
utes ; and then washed in water. The surface 
of the gold is dull, but perfectly uniform, and 
ready for burnishing. 

3198. To Color Gold. Take 1 part 
salt, 1 part alum, and 2 parts saltpetre ; each 
material to be well pounded separately in a 
mortar; put them into an iron pot with J 
pint water, and heat slowly over a fire ; boil 
gently and stir with an iron rod until it rises. 
It is then ready for the reception of the ar- 
ticles to be colored, which must be not less 
than 18 carat fine. They are suspended in 
the color by 18 carat wire, and kept in motion 
till the liquid begins to sink, then taken out 
and dipped in aquafortis pickle. The color 
liquid will rise again, and then another dip, 
and sometimes two, may be necessary to give 
the articles the proper color. This process of 
coloring is no more than taking from the sur- 
face the inferior metals, leaving a thin coating 
of pure gold; its application should not be 
too long continued, as it also dissolves a 
small portion of the gold. 

3199. Gold Coloring" Solution. Take 
1 ounce nitrate of soda, and k ounce chloride 
of sodium, and dissolve in a slight excess of 
warm water, afterwards adding to the solu- 
tion about 5 drachms hydrochloric acid. 
The solution should be kept boiling while the 
work is in it. 

3200. To Clean Gold after it is 
Soldered. Put it through the same process 
as silver {see No. 3222), but, instead of alum- 
water, boil it in wine and sal-ammoniac. 

3201. To Restore the Color of Gold 
after Soldering. Boil the gold, after sol- 
dering, in diluted oil of vitriol ; rinse in clean 
water, polish with Tripoli mixed in oil (sweet 
oil is best), wash and gloss with crocus on a 
clean cloth. 

3202. To Clean Gold. Dissolve a 
little muriate of ammonia in urine ; boil your 
soiled gold therein, and it will become clean 
and brilliant. 

3203. To Clean Gold Ornaments. 
Gold ornaments may also be thoroughly 



SILVEE. 



295 



deaned by immersion for a few seconds in a 
weak solution of ammonia. Then wash with 
soap and water. 

3204. Polishing Powder for Gold 
Articles. Dr. W. Hofman has analyzed a 
polishing powder sold by gold workers in 
Germany, which always commands a very 
high price, and hence, it may be inferred, is 
well adapted for the purpose. He found it to 
be a very simple composition, being a mix- 
ture of about 70 per cent, sesquioxide of iron 
(iron rust) and 30 per cent, sal-ammoniac. 
To prepare it, protochloride of iron, obtained 
by dissolving iron in hydrochloric acid, is 
treated with liquid ammonia until a precipi- 
tate is no longer formed. The precipitate is 
collected on a filter, and, without washing, is 
dried at such a temperature that the adhering 
sal-ammoniac shall not be volatilized. The 
protoxide of iron precipitate at first becomes 
charged with sesquioxide. 



SilV6r, This metal has a very white 
color, a high degree of lustre, is exceed- 
ingly malleable and ductile, and the best con- 
ductor of heat and electricity known. It is 
procured from its ores chiefly by amalgama- 
tion and cupellation. Its specific gravity is 
10.474, and melting-point 1873^ Fahr., or 
bright redness. It is soluble in nitric acid, 
and in sulphuric acid by the aid of heat. Its 
surface is rapidly tarnished by sulphuretted 
hydrogen, and by the fumes of sulphur. 

3208. Assay of Silver by Cupellation. 
The assay pound (usually 12 or 20 grains for 
silver) of the alloy for examination is accu- 
rately weighed, and then wrapped in a small 
piece of paper ready to undergo the process 
of cupellation. {See No. 3191.) The quan- 
tity of lead used is not uniform, but depends 
on the nature of the alloy. It should be 16 
times the weight of the copper presumed to 
be present in the sample. This, however, 
cannot be accurately ascertained, though an 
experienced assayer is generally able to guess 
very nearly the amount. If too much lead 
be used, the button obtained by cupellation 
will be too small, owing to some of the silver 
being absorbed by the cupel ; and if too little 
be used, the button will come out too large, 
from still containing some copper. The im- 
portance of justly proportioning the lead to 
the quantity of copper present in the alloy, 
cannot be too much insisted on. {Cooley). 

3207. Assay of Silver by Chemical 
Analysis. Dissolve 10 grains of the alloy 
in 100 grains of nitric acid, specific gravity 
1.28, by the aid of heat ; the solution being 
made in a tall stoppered glass tube, furnished 
with a foot ; then place it in a very delicate 
balance, which must be brought into an exact 
state of equilibrium, and add the test solution 
{see No. 3208) gradually and cautiously, until 
the whole of the silver be thrown down ; but 
the utmost care must be taken not to exceed 
this point. The number of grains now re- 
quired to restore the equilibrium of the scales 
gives the exact quantity of pure silver present 
in 1000 parts of the sample. The addition of 
the test liquor to the solution requires the 
utmost exactness. After each addition the 
stopper should be placed iji the tube, and the 



latter violently agitated for a short time, when 
the liquor will rapidly clear and enable it to 
be seen when the operation is concluded. We 
must then, as a check, add a small quantity 
of a solution of nitrate of silver to the liquor 
in the tube, after having first carefully taken 
the weight. If too much of the test liquor 
has been added, this will produce a fresh pre- 
cipitate, and the assay cannot then be de- 
pended on. Instead of weighing the quantity 
of test liquor used, a tube graduated into 
100 parts, and holding 1000 grains, may be 
used instead, every division of which required 
to throw down the silver, will represent the 
^th of a grain. The tube being filled to the 
0, is ready for use, and from being graduated 
downward the quantity poured out may at 
once be read off. Generally speaking, how- 
ever, measuring does not admit of the same 
accuracy as weighing. The termination of 
the operation is clearly marked, when, on 
adding a minute quantity of the test liquor 
to the silver solution, no cloudiness occurs. 

3208. Test Solution for Assaying Sil- 
ver. Dissolve 54J- grains pure sea-salt (see 
No. 3209) in 22 ounces 320f grains (avoirdu- 
pois) distilled water. Filter and keep in a 
stoppered bottle for use. 

3209. Pure Sea-Salt. Boil together 
for a few minutes, in a glass vessel, a solution 
of salt with a fittle pure bicarbonate of soda ; 
filter ; add muriatic acid until the liquor be 
neutral to litmus and turmeric paper; then 
evaporate and crystallize. 

3210. To Extract Silver from Lead. 
This is easily done in a small way by melting 
the mixed metals by a strong heat in the open 
air. The lead will be converted into litharge, 
and the silver will sink to the bottom of the 
crucible. On a large scale, the silver is ex- 
tracted from the lead by the oxidation of the 
lead into a reverberatory furnace of a particu- 
lar construction. A shallow vessel, called a 
cupel, is filled with ashes, well packed and 
pounded down, and a cavity cut out for the 
reception of the nozzle of a bellows, through 
which air is forcibly driven. When the fire is 
lighted and the lead is in a state of fusion 
from the reverberation of the flame, the blast 
from the bellows is made to play forcibly on 
the surface, and in a short time a crust of 
oxide of lead or litharge is formed and driven 
off to the side of the cupel opposite to the 
mouth of the bellows, where a shallow aper- 
ture is made for it to pass over; another crust 
of litharge is formed and driven off, and this 
is repeated imtil nearly all the lead has been 
scorified and blown aside. The complete 
separation of the lead is indicated by the ap- 
pearance of a brilliant lustre on the convex 
surface of the melted mass in the cupel, which 
is occasioned by the removal of the last crust 
of litharge which covered the silver. If the 
silver thus abstracted is not sufficiently pure, 
it is further refined in a reverberatory furnace, 
being placed in a cupel lined with bone ashes 
and exposed to an intense heat, so that the 
lead which escaped oxidation by the first 
process is converted into litharge, and is 
absorbed bv the ashes of the cupel. 

3211. "Test for MetaUic Silver. The 
compounds of silver, mixed with carbonate of 
soda, and exposed on charcoal to the inner 
flame of a blow-pipe, afford white, brilliant, 



296 



SILVEB. 



and ductile metallic globules, without any 
incrustation of the charcoal. {^See also As- 
saying. ) 

3212. To Obtain Pure Silver. Pure 
silver is obtained by placing a copper rod in a 
solution of nitrate of silver, digesting the 
precipitate in caustic ammonia, and washing 
with water; or by boiling recently precipitated 
and still moist chloride of silver in a bright 
iron vessel along with water. {See No. 3536. ) 
3213. Solvent for Silver. Xitro- 
sulphuric acid. Dissolve 1 part nitre in 10 
parts oH of vitriol. Used for dissolving the 
silver from plated goods, &c. It dissolves 
silver at a temperature below 200°, and 
scarcely acts upon copper, lead, and iron, un- 
less diluted. {See Nos. 3716, .3720, and 3721.) 
The silver is precipitated from the solution, 
after moderately diluting it, by common salt, 
and the chloride reduced as directed in K^os. 
S214 and 3215. 

3214. To Purify and Reduce Silver. 
Silver, as used in the arts and coinage, is al- 
loyed with a portion of copper. To purify it, 
dissolve the metal in nitric acid slightly dilu- 
ted, and add common salt, which throws down 
the whole of the silver in the foi-m of chloride. 
To reduce it into a metallic state several 
methods are used. The chloride must be re- 
peatedly washed with distilled water, and 
placed in a zinc cup ; a little diluted sulphuric 
acid being added, the chloride is soon reduced. 
The sdver, when thoroughly washed, is quite 
pure. In the absence of a zinc cup, a porce- 
lain cup containing a zinc plate may be used. 
The process is expedited by warming the cup. 
{See No. 3536.) 

3215. To Purify and Reduce Silver. 
Proceed as above, and digest the Avashed 
chloride with pure copper and ammonia. 
The quantity of ammonia need not be suffi- 
cient to dissolve the chloride. Leave the 
mixture for a day, then wash the silver thor- 
oughly. Or: Boil the washed and moist 
chloride in solution of pure potash, adding a 
little sugar ; when washed it is quite pure. 

3216. Peale's Method of Obtaining 
Pure Silver from its Solutions. By 
adding in excess, a saturated solution of com- 
mon salt to the solution of nitrate of silver, 
the metal is thrown down, as an insoluble 
salt, the chloride of silver. The precipitate 
must then be carefully washed until it is en- 
tirely freed from the presence of nitric acid. 
Granulated zinc must then be added to the 
chloride, and stirred through the mass. The 
finer the zinc has been gi'anulated, the more 
rapid will be the reduction. Dilute sulphuric 
acid must also be added, and the whole stirred 
until the reduction is complete, which will 
be known by the entire disappearance of the 
white chloride, and its conversion iuto a grey 
powder. A new set of affinities takes place 
with great rapidity in this combination, and 
the chlorine is liberated from the silver, which 
takes its metallic form, as above stated, in the 
appearance of a grey powder. The zinc, 
having been added in excess, must now be 
removed by the addition of dilute sulphuric 
acid ; after all action has ceased, the solution 
of zinc must be decanted, or drawn ojff with a 
syphon, and the silver washed until free from 
acidulous matter, after which it may be dried 
by pressure, or the simple application of heat 



in a pan over the fire, when it will be ready 
for melting, with the usual fluxes, or re-solu- 
tion with nitric acid. This process is rapid 
and easy; is not subject to loss; it will yield, 
in the terms of trade, pure silver, of a quality 
from 994 to 998 thousandths fine, and is there- 
fore well adapted to the preparation of pure 
nitrate of silver for the use of photographers 
and all others who need a reliable article. 

3217. Silver Dust. Take silver, dis- 
solve it in slightly diluted nitric acid, and 
precipitate it with slips of dright copper; 
wash the powder in spirits, and dry it. Or : 
An exceedingly fine silver dust may be ob- 
tained by boiling recently precipitated chloride 
of silver with water acidulated with sulphuric 
acid, and zinc. 

3218. To Frost Polished Silver. To 
produce a frosted surface on polished silver, 
use cyanide of potassium with a brush. The 
silver should not be handled during the pro- 
cess, but held with pliers made of lance- 
wood or boxwood. The proportion should 
be 1 ounce dissolved in i pint of water. It is 
very poisonous. 

3219. To Oxidize Silver. A very 
beautiful effect is produced upon the surface 
of silver articles, technically termed oxidizing, 
which gives the surface an appearance of pol- 
ished steel. This can be easily effected by 
taking a little chloride of platinum, prepared 
as described in the next receipt, heating the 
solution and applying it to the silver when an 
oxidized surface is required, and allowing the 
solution to dry upon the silver. The darkness 
of the color produced varies according to the 
strength of the platinum solution, from a 
light steel gray to nearly black. The effect of 
this process, when combined with what is 
termed dead work, is very pretty, and may be 
easily applied to medals, giving scope for the 
exercise of taste. The high appreciation in 
which ornaments in oxidized silver are now 
held, render a notice of the process followed 
interesting. There are two distinct shades in 
use — one produced by chloride, which has a 
brownish tint, and the other by sulphur, 
which has a blueish-black tint. To produce 
the former, it is only necessary to wash the 
article with a solution of sal-ammoniac; a 
much more beautiful tint may, however, be 
obtained by employing a solution composed 
of equal parts of sulphate of copper and sal- 
ammoniac in vinegar. The fine black tint 
may be produced by a slightly warm solution 
of sulphuret of potassium or sodium. {D7\ 
Ellsner. ) 

3220. To Prepare Nitro-Muriate 
(CMoride) of Platinum. The nitro-muriate 
of platinum is easily prepared : Take 1 part 
nitric acid, and 2 parts hydrochloric (muriatic) 
acid ; mix together and add a little platinum ; 
keep the whole at or near a boiling heat ; the 
metal is then dissolved, forming the solution 
required. 

3221. To Make a Silver Tree. Dis- 
solve 20 grains nitrate of silver in 1 fluid ounce 
of water in a phial, and add k drachm pure 
mercury. AiTange the zinc as for the lead 
tree. Yery brilliant and beautiful. 

3222. To Clean Silver after it is Sol- 
dered. Make it just red hot, and let it cool ; 
then boil it in alum water, in an earthen 
vessel, and it will be as clean as when new. 



3223. Belgian Burnishing Powder. 

A burnishing powder in use in Belgium is 
eomposed of 4 pound fine chalk, 3 ounces 
pipe clay, 2 ounces white lead, f ounce mag- 
nesia (carbonate), and the same quantity of 
jeweler's rouge. 

3224. To Protect Silver- Ware from 
Tarnishing. The loss of silver which re- 
sults from the impregnation of our atmosphere 
with sulphur compounds, especially where 
gas is burned, is very great. Silversmiths 
may thank one of their confraternity — Mr. 
Strolberger, of Munich— for a happy thought. 
He seems to have tried various plans to save 
his silver, if possible. He covered his goods 
with a clear white vamish, but found that it 
soon turned yellow in the window, and spoiled 
the look of his wares. Then he tried water- 
glass (solution of silicate of potash), but this 
did not answer. He tried some other solu- 
tions, to no purpose ; but at last he hit upon 
the expedient of coating his goods over with 
a thin coating of collodion, which he found 
to answer perfectly, ^o more loss of silver, 
and no longer incessant labor in keeping it 
clean. The plan he adopts is this : He first 
warms the articles to be coated, and then 
paints them over carefully with a thinnish 
collodion diluted with alcohol, using a wide 
soft brush for the purpose. Generally, he 
says, it is not advisable to do them over more 
than once. Silver goods, he tells us, protected 
in this way, have been exposed in his window 
more than a year, and are as bright as ever, 
while others unprotected have become perfect- 
ly black in a few months. 

3225. To Prevent Coins and Small 
Ornaments from Tarnishing. All orna- 
ments, whether gold or silver, can be kept 
from tarnishing if they are carefully covered 
from the air in box- wood sawdust, which will 
also dry them after being washed. The tarnish 
on silver- ware is most often due to sulphur. 
A gentleman who wears a silver watch finds 
that it is tarnished from the sulphur fumes of 
the rubber ring which holds together his feny 
tickets. Sulphur fumes enough get into the 
air to account for all ordinary cases of tar- 
nishing. 

3226. To Clean Silver. Immerse for 
half an hour the silver article into a solution 
made of 1 gallon water, 1 pound hyposulphite 
of soda, 8 ounces muriate of ammonia, 4 oun- 
ces liquid ammonia, and 4 ounces cyanide of 
potassium; but, as the latter substance is 
poisonous, it can be dispensed with if neces- 
sary. The article, being taken out of the 
solution, is washed, and rubbed with a wash 
leather. 

3227. To Clean Silver Plate. Fill a 
large saucepan with water; put into it 1 
ounce carbonate of potash and ^ pound whi- 
ting. ]S"ow put in all the spoons, forks, and 
small plate, and boil them for 20 minutes ; 
after which take the saucepan off the fire and 
allow the liquor to become cold ; then take 
each piece out and polish with soft leather. 
A soft brush must be used to clean the em- 
bossed and engraved parts. 

3228. Plate Boiling Powder. Mix 
equal parts of cream of tartar, common salt, 
and alum. A little of this powder, added to 
the water in which silver-plate is boiled, gives 
to it a silvery whiteness. 



SILVER 297 

3229. Plate Cleaning Powder. For 

cleaning silver and plated articles, &c. Mix ^ 
pound jeweler's rouge with | pound prepared 
chalk. Or : ^ pound levigated putty powder, 
5 pound burnt hartshorn. 1 pound^ prepared 
chalk, and 1 ounce rose-pink. 

3230. To Clean Silver. To clean sil- 
ver, mix 2 tea-spoonfuls of ammonia in a 
quart of hot soap-suds. Put in the silver- 
ware and wash it, using an old nail-brush or 
tooth-brush for the puqwse. 

3231. To Clean Silver and Silver 
Plated Articles. Boil 1 ounce finely pow- 
dered and calcined hartshorn in 1 quart water, 
and while on the fire, insert the articles, as 
many as the vessel will hold ; leave them in 
a short time, then take them out, and dry 
them over a fire ; when all the articles have 
been thus treated, put into the solution clean 
woolen rags ; when they are saturated, hang 
them up to dry. These will be excellent for 
polishing the silver, as well as for cleaning 
brass door-knobs, &c. 

3232. To Preserve the Polish on 
Silver. AVash it twice a week (if in daily 
use) with soft soap and hot water, and polish 
with Canton flannel. {See next receipt.) 

3233. To Clean Silver Ornaments. 
Boil them in soft soap and water for five 
minutes ; then put them in a basin with the 
same hot soap and water, and scrub them 
gently with a very soft brush while hot ; then 
rinse and dry with a linen rag. Heat a piece 
of common unglazed earthenware, or a piece 
of brick or tile in the fire ; take it off, and 
place the ornaments upon it for the purpose 
of drying them, and causing every particle of 
moisture to evaporate; as the moisture, 
which otherwise would remain on the silver, 
will cause it to tarnish, or assume a greenish 
hue. 

3234. To Clean Silver. Moisten 
some finely powdered whiting or Paris white 
with spirits of hartshorn, rub the silver into 
it, let it dry, then rub it off with a soft cloth 
and polish it with chamois leather. Some 
kinds of silver soap keep silver looking nicely, 
but many of them are chemical compounds 
that injure the silver. 

3235. To Clean Silver Plate. Whit- 
ing finely powdered and moistened with a 
little sweet oil is excellent to clean silver. 
Let the mixture dry on, then rub it off with a 
soft linen cloth and polish with chamois 
leather. This gives silver a beautiful white 
appearance, and if well done the silver will 
keep clean a long time. 

3236. To Remove Ink Stains from 
Silver. The tops and other portions of 
silver inkstands frequently become deeply 
discolored with ink, which is difficult to re- 
move by ordinary means. It may, however, 
be completely eradicated by making a little 
chloride of lime into a paste with water, and 
rubbing it upon the stains. 

3237. To Remove Dark Stains from 
Silver. A certain remedy for the most in- 
veterate stains that are sometimes to be seen 
on teaspoons and other silver ware, is to pour 
a little sulphuric acid into a saucer, wet with 
it a soft linen rag, and rub it on the blackened 
silver till the stain disappears. Then coat 
the articles with whiting finely powdered and 
sifted, and mixed with whiskey or spirits of 



298 



COPPER. 



wine. "WTien the whiting has dried on, and 
rested a quarter of an hour or more, wipe it 
■with a silk handkerchief, and polish with a 
soft buckskin. 

3238. To Remove Egg Stains from 
Spoons. To remove the stains on spoons, 
caused by using them for boiled eggs, take a 
little common salt moist between the thumb 
and finger, and briskly rwb the stain, which 
will soon disappear. Then wash. 

3239. To Clean Gold, Silver, and Cop- 
per Coin for Numismatic Collections. 
Make a weak solution of cyanide of potassium 
and bathe the coin in it for 2 or 3 seconds, then 
immediately wash it with a very fine brush, in 
soap-suds ; rinse in clean cold water, and dry 
in boxwood saw dust. This receipt is partic- 
ularly good for fine proof coins. Be careful 
not to let the coins remain in the solution 
longer than the time specified, otherwise they 
may have a frosted appearance. {See No. 
2167.) As the cyanide of potassium is a very 
deadly poison, great care must be taken by 
the operator not to use it unless his hands are 
entirely free from scratches. This solution 
may also be used for cleaning fine copper 
coins, but care must be taken not to use the 
mixture that has previously been employed 
for cleaning silver, or a coating of the latter 
metal may be the consequence. {See Nos. 
3224 «wd 3225.) 

Silver coins are often covered with a dense 
green oxide. To remove this they should be 
steeped for 10 minutes in a solution of am- 
monia, then immersed in water and wiped 
with a soft towel ; if necessary, a fresh 
quantity of the solution may be applied. 
Copper coin may be cleaned by immersing in 
pure sweet oil and wiping dry with a soft 
rag. 



Copper. This metal is found in the 
metallic state, and in combination with 
oxygen, sulphur, acids, and other minerals, 
and in the organic kingdom, in the ashes of 
plants, and in the blood of animals. The 
copper of commerce is principally prepared 
from copper pyrites, a mixed sulphuret of 
iron and copper, found in Cornwall and other 
parts of the world. Copper is oniy prepared 
from its ores on the large scale. The copper 
pyrites are first roasted, and then smelted, by 
which process coarse metal is produced ; this 
is again submitted to calcination and smelt- 
ing, when fine metal is obtained. It after- 
wards undergoes the process of refining and 
toughening. This metal is malleable and 
ductile. It has a specific gravity of 8.8 to 
8.9, fuses at about 2000° Fahr., and volatilizes 
at higher temperatures. It is easily soluble 
in nitric acid, and is attacked more or less 
rapidly by acids in general. It forms numer- 
ous compounds, all of which are more or less 
poisonous. Exposure to a damp atmosphere 
produces on its surface a green colored oxide, 
known as verdigris. Copper may be readily 
alloyed with other metals, except iron and 
lead, with which it unites with difficulty. 

3241. Test for the Cluantity of Copper 
in a Compound. The quantity of copper 
present in any compound may be estimated 
by throwing it down from its solution by pure 



potassa, after which it must be carefully 
collected, washed, dried, ignited, and weighed. 
This will give the quantity of the oxide from 
which its equivalent of metallic copper may 
be calculated; every 5 parts of the former 
being nearly equal to*^ 4 of the latter; or, moi-e 
accurately, every 39.7 parts are equal to 31.7 
of pure metallic copper. Copper may also be 
precipitated at once in the metallic state, by 
immersing a piece of polished steel into the 
solution ; but this method will not give very 
accurate results. 

3242. To Separate Lead from Cop- 
per. Copper may be separated from lead by 
adding sulphmic acid to the nitric solution, 
and evaporating to dryness, when water 
digested on the residuum will dissolve out 
the sulphate of copper, but leave the sulphate 
of lead behind. From this solution the oxide 
of copper may be thrown down as before. 

3243. To Separate Zinc from Copper. 
Copper may be separated from zinc by sul- 
phuretted hydrogen, which will throw down a 
sulphuret of copper, which may be dissolved 
in nitric acid, and treated as in last receipt. 

3244. To Separate Tin from Copper. 
Digest in nitric acid ; the copper will be dis- 
solved, but the tin will remain in an insoluble 
peroxide. 

3245. To Separate Silver from Cop- 
per. Digest, in a state of filings or powder, 
in a solution of chloride of zinc, which dis- 
solves the copper and leaves the silver un- 
changed. 

3246. To Separate Copper from its 
Alloys. Copper may be separated in abso- 
lute purity from antimony, arsenic, bismuth, 
lead, iron, <fec., as it exists in bell-metal, brass, 
bronze, and other commercial alloys, by 
fusing, for about half an hour, in a crucible, 
10 parts of the metal with 1 part each of cop- 
per scales (black oxide), and bottle glass. 
The pure copper is found at the bottom of 
the crucible, whilst the other metals or impuri- 
ties are either volatilized or dissolved in the 
flux. 

3247. Copper in Fine Powder. A 
solution of sulphate of copper is heated to the 
boiling-point, and precipitated with sublima- 
ted zinc. {See No. '^0.) The precipitated cop- 
per is then separated from the adherent zinc 
l3y diluted sulphuric acid, and dried by expo- 
sure to a moderate temperature. 

3248. Reduction of Copper in Fine 
Powder. M. Schifi' gives the following pro- 
cess for obtaining copper in a state of fine 
division: A saturated solution of sulphate of 
copper, together with some crystals of the 
salt, are introduced into a bottle or flask, and 
agitated with some granulated zinc. The 
zinc displaces the copper from its solution, 
fresh sulphate dissolving as the action goes 
on, until the whole is exhausted. Heat is 
disengaged during the operation. The pre- 
cipitated copper must be washed and dried 
as rapidlv as possible, to prevent oxidation. 

3249."^ Feather-Shot Copper. Melted 
copper, poured in a small stream into cold 
water. It forms small pieces, with a feathered 
edge, hence the name. It is used to make 
solution of copper. 

3250. Welding Copper. A compound 
of 358 parts phosphate of soda and 124 part«> 
boracic acid is prepared, and is used when the 



LEAP. 



S99 



metal is at a dull red heat ; the heat is then 
increased till the metal becomes of a cherry 
red color, and the latter is at once hammered. 
A hammer of wood is recommended for this 
purpose, as the metal is liable to soften at a 
high heat; and the hammer should be used 
cautiously. All scale and carbonaceous mat- 
ter must be removed from the surface of the 
copper, as the success of the welding depends 
on the formation of an easily fusible phosphate 
of copper, which would be reduced to a phos- 
phide by the presence of carbon. 

3251. To Prevent the Corrosion of 
Copper and Other Metals. The best 
means of preventing corrosion of metals is to 
dip the articles first into a very dilute nitric 
acid, immerse them afterwards m linseed oil, 
and allow the excess of oil to drain ofi". By 
this process metals are eflfectually prevented 
from rust or oxidation. 

3252. To Clean Coppers and Tins. 
These are cleaned with a mixture of rotten 
stone, soft soap, and oil of turpentine, mixed 
to the consistency of stiff putty. The stone 
should be powdered very fine and sifted ; and 
a quantity of the mixture may be made 
suflicient to last for a long while. The 
articles should first be washed with hot wa- 
ter, to remove grease. Then a little of the 
above mixture, mixed with water, should be 
rubbed over the metal ; then rub off briskly, 
with dry clean rag or leather, and a beautiful 
polish will be obtained. When tins are much 
blackened by the fire they should be scoured 
with soap, water, and fine sand. 



Lea^d. Lead is only prepared on the 
large scale. It is usually extracted from 
galena, a natural sulphuret of lead, by roast- 
ing the ore in a reverberatory furnace, and 
afterwards smelting it along with coal and 
lime. Its specific gravity, in a state of abso- 
lute purity, is 11.38 to 11.44, but ordinary 
lead seldom exceeds 11.35. It melts at about 
612^ Fahr., and when very slowly cooled, 
crystallizes in octohedrons. It is malleable 
and ductile, but devoid of elasticity. Lead is 
not dissolved by muriatic, sulphuric, or the 
vegetable acids, unless by free contact with 
air, and then very slowly : but nitric acid 
rapidly oxidizes it, forming a solution of ni- 
trate of lead. Pure water, put into a leaden 
vessel, and exposed to the air, soon corrodes 
it, and dissolves the newly-formed oxide ; but 
river and spring water exert no such influ- 
ence, the carbonates and sulphates in such 
water destroying its solvent power. Lead 
may be alloyed with most metals, except 
those which differ greatly from it in specific 
gravity and melting point. It has a strong 
affinity for gold and silver, and is therefore 
employed to separate those metals, by cupel- 
lation, from other metals and minerals. 

3254. Cautions on the Use of Lead 
for Cisterns, &c. Ordinary water, which 
aoounds in mineral salts, may be safely kept 
in leaden cisterns ; but disMlled and rain 
water, and water that contains scarcely any 
saline matter, speedily corrode, and dissolve 
a portion of lead, when kept in vessels of that 



metal. When, however, leaden cisterns have 
iron or zinc fastenings or braces, a galvanic 
action is set up, the preservative power of 
saline matter ceases, and the water speedily 
becomes contaminated with lead. Water con- 
taining free carbonic acid also acts on lead ; 
and this is the reason why the water of some 
springs, kept in leaden cisterns, or raised hy 
leaden pumps, possesses unwholesome proper- 
ties. Free carbonic acid is evolved during the 
fermentation or decay of vegetable matter, 
and hence the propriety of preventing the 
leaves of trees falling into water-cisterns 
formed of lead. 

3255. To Test the Richness of Lead 
Ores. Lead ores, or galena, may be tested in 
different ways. The wet loay is as follows: 
Digest 100 grains of the ore m. sufficient nitric 
acid diluted with a little water, apply heat to 
expel any excess of acid, and largely dilute 
the remainder vsdth distilled water. Next 
add dilute hydrochloric acid, by drops, as 
long as it occasions a precipitate, and filter 
the whole, after being moderately heated, 
upon a small paper filter. Treat the filtered 
liquid with a stream of sulphuretted hydro- 
gen; collect the black precipitate, wash it, 
and digest it in strong nitric acid ; when en- 
tirely dissolved, precipitate the lead with 
sulphuric acid dropped in it, evaporate the 
precipitate to dryness, the excess of sulphu- 
ric acid being expelled by a rather strong heat 
applied towards the end. The dry mass 
should be washed, dried, and exposed to slight 
ignition in a porcelain crucible. The resulting 
dry sulphate is equal to .68 per cent, of its 
weight in lead. 

3256. To Find the Percentage of 
Lead in Lead Ores. This can be done by 
applying the test in the loet icay (see No. 
3255), and multiplying the weight of the pro- 
duct obtained in grains by .68. It may also 
be found in the dnj iDay, as follows : Plunge 
a conical wrought iron crucible into a blast 
furnace, raised to as high a heat as possible ; 
when the crucible has become of a dull red 
heat, introduce into it 1000 grains galena 
(lead ore) reduced to powder, and stir it 
gently with a piece of stiff iron wire flattened 
at the end. This wire must never be suffered 
to get red hot. To prevent the ore from adher- 
ing, after 3 or 4 minutes, cover up the cruci- 
ble; and when at a full cherry-red heat, add 2 
or 3 spoonfuls of reducing flux {see No. 3464), 
and bring to a fuU white heat; in 12 to 15 
minutes, after having scraped down the 
scoria, etc., from the sides of the crucible, 
into the melted mass, the crucible should be 
removed from the fire, and the contents tilted 
into a small brass mould, observing to run 
out the metal free from scoria, by raking the 
latter back with a piece of green wood. The 
scoria is then reheated in the crucible with i 
spoonful of flux, and this second reduction 
added to the first. The weight in grains of 
the metal obtained, divided by 10, gives the 
percentage of metallic lead in the sample of 
ore. 

3257. To Make a Lead Tree. Dissolve 
1 ounce sugar of lead (acetate of lead) in li 
pints distilled water ; add a few drops of 
acetic acid ; place the liquid in a clear white 
glass bottle and suspend a piece of zinc in it 
by means of a fine thread secured to the cork. 



300 



IBON. 



Iron. Iron is only prepared on the 
large scale. It is obtained by smelting 
the ore along with coke and a flux (either 
limestone or clay). The crude iron thus ob- 
tained is run into moulds, and then consti- 
tutes cast iron or pig iron. By the subse- 
quent process of refining, (puddling, welding,) 
it is converted into soft iron or wrought iron. 
The properties and uses of iron are too well 
known to require description. Its applica- 
tions in almost every branch of human indus- 
try are almost infinite. It is remarkably 
ductile, and possesses great tenacity, but it is 
less malleable than many of the other metals. 
Its specific gravity is 7.788, and melts at 
about 2700^ Fahr. It is the hardest of all of 
the malleable and ductile metals, and when 
combined with carbon or silica (steel), ad- 
mits of being tempered to almost any degree 
of hardness or elasticity. Metallic iron is 
distinguished by being attracted by the mag- 
net; by being dissolved by dilute muriatic 
and sulphuric acids, with solution of hydro- 
gen gas, recognized by its inflammability; and 
the solution exhibits the usual reactions of 
protoxide of iron. {Cooley.) Iron does not 
aUoy easily with other metals, principally on 
account of its high melting point. It is easily 
attacked by acids, and requires protection 
from the air, to prevent oxidization or rust- 
ing. 

3259. To Estimate the Percentage of 
Iron in Ores. Prepare a crucible of refrac- 
tory clay by pressing into it successive layers 
of moistened powdered charcoal until full and 
solid; clear out a cavity by removing the 
central portion. Take 200 grains of the 
powdered ore, and mix it with the same 
weight of dry slacked lime, and 50 grains char- 
coal ; if necessary a litte carbonate of soda 
may be used with very refractory ores; in- 
troduce this mixture into the crucible and 
lute it up. Expose the crucible to a moderate 
heat until the contents of the crucible are 
dry, then apply, and maintain for half an 
hour the full heat of a blast furnace. Then 
remove the crucible, tap it steadily on the 
edge of the furnace, so as to bring the metal- 
lic portion of its contents together at the bot- 
tom; and, when cool, break the crucible 
open. The iron will be found in a clean but- 
ton at the bottom of the slag. Clean the iron 
with a scratch brush, and weigh it. Its weight, 
divided by 2, will give the percentage of rich- 
ness of the ore under examination. 

3260. To Distinguish. Wrought and 
Cast Iron from Steel. Eisner produces a 
bright surface by polishing or filing, and ap- 
plies a drop of nitric acid, which is allowed 
to remain there for one or two minutes, and 
is then washed off with water. The spot 
will then look a pale ashy gray on wrought 
iron, a brownish black on steel, a deep black 
on cast iron. It is the carbon present in va- 
rious proportions which produces the difier- 
ence in appearance. 

3261. To Impart to Cast Iron the 
Appearance of Bronze. The article to be 
so treated is first cleaned with great care, and 
then coated with a uniform film of some veg- 
etable oil; this done, it is exposed in a fur- 
nace to the action of a high temperature, 
which, however, must not be strong enough 



to carbonize the oil. In this way the cast 
iron absorbs oxygen at the moment the oil is 
decomposed, and there is formed at the sur- 
face a thin coat of brown oxide, which ad- 
heres very strongly to the metal, and will 
admit of a high polish, giving it quite the ap- 
pearance of the finest bronze. 

3262. Brown Tint for Iron and Steel. 
Dissolve in 4 parts of water, 2 parts crystal- 
lized chloride of non, 2 parts chloride of anti- 
mony, and 1 part gallic acid, and apply the 
solution with a sponge or cloth to the article, 
and dry it in the air. Eepeat this any number 
of times according the depth of color which 
it is desired to produce. Wash with water, 
and dry, and finally rub the articles over with 
boiled linseed oil. The metal thus receives 
a brown tint and resists moisture. The 
chloride of antimony should be as little acid 
as possible. 

3263. To Blue Gun Barrels. Apply 
nitric acid and let it eat into the iron a little ; 
then the latter will be covered with a thin 
film of oxide. Clean the ban-el, oil, and bur- 
nish. 

3264. To Ornament Gun Barrels. A 
very pretty appearance is given to, gun bar- 
rels by treating them with dilute nitric acid 
and -vinegar, to which has been added sul- 
phate of copper. The metallic copper is de- 
posited irregularly over the iron surface. 
Wash, oil, and rub well with a hard brush. 

3265. Iron Filings. The only way to 
obtain them pure, is to act on a piece of soft 
iron with a file. 

3266. To Remove Rust from Iron. 
"We have never seen any iron so badly scaled 
or incrusted with oxide, that it could not be 
cleaned with a solution of 1 part sulphuric 
acid in 10 parts water. Paradoxical as it may 
seem, strong sulphuric acid will not attack 
iron with anything like the energy of a solu- 
tion of the same. On withdrawing the arti- 
cles from the acid solution they should be 
dipped in a bath of hot lime water, and held 
there till they become so heated that they 
will dry immediately when taken out. Then, 
if they are rubbed with dry bran or sawdust, 
there will be an almost chemically clean sur- 
face left, to which zinc will adhere readilv. 

3267. To Keep Polished Iron Work 
Bright. Common resin melted with a little 
gallipoli oil and spirits of tui-pentine has been 
found to answer very well for preserving pol- 
ished iron work bright. The proportions 
should be such as to form a coating which 
will adhere fiiToly, not chip off, and yet admit 
of being easily detached by cautious scra- 
ping. 

3268. To Protect Iron from Oxidiza- 
tion. Among the many processes and pre- 
parations for preserving iron from the action 
of the atmosphere, the following will be 
found the most efficient in all cases where 
galvanization is impracticable ; and, being 
unafi'ected by sea water, it is especially appli- 
cable to the bottoms of iron ships, and marinp 
work generally : Sulphur, 17 pounds ; caustic 
potash lye of 35° Baume, 5 pounds ; and cop- 
per filings, 1 pound. To be heated until the 
copper and sulphur dissolve. Heat, in another 
vessel, tallow, 750 pounds, and turpentine, 
150 pounds, until the tallow is liquefied. Th« 
compositions are to be mixed and stirred 



STEEL. 



301 



together while hot, and may be laid on to the 
iron, in the same way as paint. 

3269. To Protect Iron from Rust. 
A mastic or covering for this purpose, propos- 
^d by M. Zeni, is as follows: Mix 80 parts 
pounded brick, passed through a silk sieve, 
with 20 parts litharge; the whole is then 
rubbed up by the muller with linseed oil, so 
as to form a\hick paint, which may be diluted 
with spirits of turpentine. Before it is ap- 
plied the iron should be well cleaned. From 
an experience of 2 years upon locks exposed 
to the air, and watered daily with salt water, 
after being covered with 2 coats of this mastic, 
the good effects of it have been thoroughly 
proved. 

3270. To Prevent the Decay of Iron 
Railings. Every one must have noticed the 
destructive combination of lead and iron, 
from railings being fixed in stone with the 
former metal. The reason for this is, that 
the oxygen of the atmosphere keeps up a 
galvanic action between the two metals. 
This waste may be prevented by substituting 
zino for lead, in which case the galvanic influ- 
ence would be inverted; the whole of its 
action would fall on the zinc; the one remain- 
ing uninjured, the other nearly so. Paint 
formed of the oxide of zinc, for the same 
reason preserves h-on exposed to the atmo- 
sphere infinitely better than the ordinary paint 
composed of the oxide of lead. 

3271. To Scour Cast Iron, Zinc, or 
Brass. Cast iron, zinc, and brass surfaces 
can be scoured with great economy of labor, being subjected to the blows of a tilt-hammer. 



red heat, about 2000° Fahr., is obtained and 
kept up steadily for about 7 days. A hole is 
left in the end of the trough, to allow of a bar 
being drawn out for examination. "When a 
bar, on being withdrawn and broken, has ac- 
quired a crystalline texture, the metal is al- 
lowed to cool down gradually, some days 
being allowed for this, and the charge, when 
cool, withdrawn from the trough. The bars 
will be found covered with large blisters, 
hence the name of the j)rocess, and increased 
about T5U iu weight. The steel is now suffi- 
ciently good for files and coarser tools, but 
for finer instruments, several varieties of finer 
steel are required. (MaJcins). 

3275. To Make Shear-Steel. This is 
produced by cutting up bars of blistered steel, 
into lengths of 30 inches, and binding them 
in bundles of 8 or 9 by a ring of steel, a rod 
being fixed for a handle. These are brought 
to a welding heat, and welded together under 
a tilt hammer. The binding ring is then re- 
moved; and, after reheating, the mass is 
forged solid, and extended into a bar. In 
cases where this operation is repeated, the 
steel is called doiible-shear steel. (Mahins.) 

3276. To Make Cast-Steel. Cast-steel 
is the best variety for all fine cutting tools. 
This is a mixture of scraps of different va- 
rieties of blistered steel, collected together in a 
good refractory clay crucible ; upon this a 
cover is luted, and it is exposed to an intense 
heat in a blast furnace for 3 or 4 hours. The 
contents are then run into moulds. After 



time and material, by using either glycerine, 
stearine, naphthaline, or creosote, mixed witti 
dilute sulphuric acid. 

3272. To Clean Steel and Iron. Make 
1 ounce soft soap and 2 ounces emery into a 
paste ; rub it on the article with wash-leather 
and it will have a brilliant polish. Kerosene 
oil will also clean steel. 



StGGl. The addition of a small quan- 
tity of carbon greatly increases the hard- 
ness and tenacity of iron, and converts it into 
steel. The amount of carbon to be added, 
should be just that which will produce the 
maximum of hardness and toughness, without 
rendering it brittle; ordinary steel contains 
about 1 per cent, of carbon ; hard steel 1.6 to 
1.7 per cent. The percentage of carbon in 
English steel is estimated by Berthier to be 
1.87. It melts at about 2500^ Fahr. 

3274. To Convert Iron into Steel. 
This is usually done by the process of cement- 
ation, producing what is termed blistered 
steel. At the bottom of a trough about 2 feet 
square and 14 feet long, usually formed of 
fire clay, is placed a layer, about 2 inches 
thick, of a cement composed of 10 parts char- 
coal and 1 part ashes and common salt; upon 
this is laid a tier of thin iron bars about ■§■ 
inch apart ; between and over them, a layer 
of cement is spread, then a second row of bars, 
and so on, alternately, until the trough is 
nearly full ; lastly a layer of cement covered 
with moist sand and a close cover of fire-tiles, 
so as to exclude the air. The trough is ex- 
posed to the heat of a coal fire, imtil a full 



the cast steel is ready for use. (Makins). 

3277. Steel Made from Iron Scraps. 
Take iron scraps in small pieces, put 40 pounds 
in a crucible, with 8 ounces charcoal, and 4 
ounces black oxide of manganese ; expose the 
whole Is hours to a high heat, and run into 
moulds. 

3278. To Blue Steel. The mode em- 
ployed in blueing steel is merely to subject it 
to heat. The dark blue is produced at a tem- 
perature of 600°, the full blue at 500°, and the 
blue at 550°. The steel must be finely polish- 
ed on its surface, and then exposed to a uni- 
form degree of heat. Accordingly, there are 
three ways of coloring : first, by a flame pro- 
duciag no soot, as spirit of wine ; secondly, 
by a hot plate of iron ; and thirdly, by wood 
ashes. As a very regular degi-ee of heat is 
necessary, wood ashes for fine work bear the 
preference. The work must be covered over 
with them, and carefully watched ; when the 
color is sufficiently heightened, the work is 
perfect. This color is occasionally taken ofl? 
with a very dilute muriatic acid. 

3279. To Blue Small Steel Articles. 
Make a box of sheet iron, fill it with sand, 
and subject it to a great heat. The articles 
to be blued must be finished and well polished. 
Immerse the articles in the sand, keeping 
watch of them until they are of the right 
color, when they should be taken out, and im- 
mersed in oil. 

3280. To Make Edge-Tools from 
Cast-Steel and Iron. This method consists 
in fixing a clean piece of wrought iron, brought 
to a welding heat, in the centre of a mould, 
and then pouring in melted steel, so as entirely 
to envelop the iron; and then forging the 
mass into the shape required. 



302 



STEEL 



3281. To Remove Scale from Steel. 

Scale may be removed from steel articles by 
pickling in water witb a little sulphuric acid 
in it, and -when the scale is loosened, brushing 
with sand and a stijff brush. 

3282. To Restore Burnt Cast-Steel. 
Take I3 pounds borax, 5 pound sal-ammoniac, 
i pound pmssiate of potash, 1 ounce resin. 
Pound the above fine, add a gill each of water 
and alcohol. Put in an iron kettle, and boil 
until it becomes a paste. Do not boil too 
long, or it will become hard on cooling. 

3283. To Anneal Steel. For a small quan- 
tity. Heat the steel to a cherry red in a char- 
coal fire, then bury it in sawdust, in an iron 
box, covering the sawdust with ashes. Let 
it stay until cold. For a larger quantity, and 
when it is required to be very soft, pack the 
steel with cast-iron (lathe or planer) chips in 
an iron box, as follows : Having at least 2 or 
f inch in depth of chips in the bottom of box, 
put in a layer of steel, then more chips to fill 
spaces between the steel, and also the 5 or f 
inch space between the sides of box and steel, 
then more steel ; and, lastly, at least 1 inch 
in depth of chips, well rammed down on top 
of the steel. Heat to and keep at a red heat 
for from 2 to 4 hours. Do not distm'b the box 
until cold. 

3284. Engraving Mixture for Wri- 
ting on Steel. Sulphate of copper, 1 ounce ; 
sal-ammoniac, 5 ounce; pulverize separately, 
adding a little vermilion to color it, and mix 
with li ounces vinegar. Eub the steel with 
soft soap and write with a clean hard pen, 
without a slit, dipped in the mixture. 

3285. Tempering Tools. The steel is 
generally first hardened by heating it to a 
cherry red, and then plunging it into cold wa- 
ter. Afterward the temper is drawn by mod- 
erately heating the steel again. Difi'erent de- 
grees of hardness are required for difi'erent 
purposes. 

For very pale straw color, 430°, for lancets. 

A shade of darker yellow, 450°, for razors 
and surgical instruments. 

Darker straw yellow, 470°, for pen-knives. 

Still darker yellow, 490°, chisel for cutting 
iron. 

Brown yellow, 500°, axes and plane-irons. 

Yellow, slightly tinged with purple, 520°, 
table-knives and watch-springs. 

3286. To Temper Drills. Heat the 
best steel to a cheny red, and hammer until 
nearly cold, forming the end into the requisite 
flattened shape, then heat it again to a cherry 
red, and plunge it into a lump of resin or into 
quicksilver. A solution of cyanide of po- 
tassium in rain water is sometimes used for the 
tempering plunge bath, but it is not as good as 
quicksilver or resin. 

3287. To Temper Gravers. These 
may be tempered in the same way as drills ; 
or the red hot instrument may be pressed 
into a piece of lead, in which a hole about ^ 
an inch deep has been cut to receive the 
graver; the lead melting around and en- 
closing it will give it an excellent temper. 

3288. To Temper Spiral Springs. 
Heat to a cherry red in a charcoal tire, and 
harden in oil. To temper, blaze off the oil 3 
times, the same as for flat spring'^. 

3289. To Temper Old Files. Grind 
out the cuttings on one side, until a bright 



surface is obtained; then damp the surface 
with a little oil, and lay the file on a piece of 
red-hot iron, bright side upwards. In about 
a minute the bright surface will begin to turn 
yellow; and when the yellow has deepened 
to about the color of straw, plunge in cold 
water. 

3290. To Make Polished Steel Straw 
Color or Blue. The surface of polished 
steel acquires a pale straw color at 460^ 
Fahr., and a uniform deep blue at 580° Fahr. 

3291. To Temper Mill Picks. After 
working the steel carefully, prepare a bath 
of lead heated to the boiling point, which will 
be indicated by a slight agitation of the sur- 
face. In it place the end of th-e pick to the 
depth of 1| inches, until heated to the tem- 
perature of the lead, then plunge immediately 
in clear cold water. The temper will be just 
right, if the bath is at the temperature re- 
quired. The principal requisities in making 
mill picks are: First, get good steel. Second, 
work it at a low heat; most blacksmiths in- 
jure steel by overheating. Third, heat for 
tempering without direct exposure to the fire. 
The lead bath acts merely as protection against 
the heat, which is almost always too great to 
temper well. 

3292. Bath for Hardening Mill Picks. 
Take 2 gallons rain water, 1 ounce corrosive 
sublimate, 1 of sal-ammoniac, 1 of saltpetre, 
1^ pints rock salt. The picks should be heat- 
ed to a cherry red, and cooled in the bath. 
The salt gives hardness, and the other ingre- 
dients toughness to the steel ; and they will 
not break, if they are left without drawing the 
temper. 

3293. Composition for Tempering 
Cast-Steel Mill Picks. To 3 gallons of 
water, add 3 ounces each nitric acid, spirits of 
hartshorn, sulphate of zinc, sal-ammoniac, 
and alum ; 6 ounces salt, with a double hand- 
ful of hoof-parings; the steel to be heated a 
dark cherry red. It must be kept corked 
tight to prevent evaporation. 

3294. Tempering Steel. Mr. N. P. 
Ames, late of Chicopee, Mass., after expend- 
ing much time and money in experiments, 
found that the most successful means of tem- 
pering swords and cutlasses that would stand 
the United States Grovemment test, was by 
heating in a charcoal fire, hardening in pure 
spring water, and drawing the temper in 
charcoal flame. (iSee 2Vb. 3285.) 

3295. To Straighten Hardened Steel. 
To straighten a piece of steel already harden- 
ed and tempered, heat it lightly, not enough 
to draw the temper, and you may straighten 
it on an anvil with a hammer, if really not 
dead cold. It is best, however, to straighten 
it between the centres of a lathe, if a turned 
article, or on a block of wood with a mallet. 
"Warm, it yields readily to the blows of the 
mallet, but cold, it would break like glass. 

3296. To Restore the Power of 
Horseshoe Magnets. To restore horseshoe 
magnets that have lost their power from dis- 
use, proceed as with new ones. Place the 
poles of the magnet to be charged, against 
the poles of another, making opposite poles 
meet. Then draw a piece of soft iron, placed 
at right angles upon the magnet to be charged, 
from the poles to the bend. Do this a number 
of times on each side of the magnet. If the 



STEEL 



303 



magnet is ot good steel, this produces a max- 
imum power. It is the method of Jacobi, 
and is considered one of the best, 

3297. Case-Hardening- is the operation 
of giving a surface of steel to pieces of iron, 
by which thej are rendered capable of receiv- 
ing great external hardness, while the interior 
portion retains all the toughness of good 
wrought-iron. This is accomplished by heat- 
ing the iron in contact with animal carbon, in 
close vessels. Greorge Ede says: — The articles 
intended to be case-hardened' are put into the 
bos with animal carbon, and the box made 
air-tight by luting it with clay. They are 
then placed in the fire and kept at a light red 
heat for any length of time, according to the 
depth required. In half an hour after the 
box and its contents have been heated quite 
through, the hardness will scarcely be the 
thickness of a half dime; in an horn*, double; 
and so forth, till the desired depth is acquired. 
The box is then taken from the fire, and the 
contents emptied into pure cold water. They 
can then be taken out of the water and dried 
(to keep them from rusting), by riddling them 
in a sieve with some dry saw-dust ; and they 
are then ready for polishing. Case-hardening 
is a superficial conversion of iron into steel. 
It is not always merely for economy that iron 
is case-hardened, but for a multitude cf things 
it is preferable to steel, and answers the pur- 
pose better. Delicate articles, to keep from 
blistering while heating, may be dipped into 
a powder of burnt leather, or bones, or other 
coalv animal matter. 

3298. To Case-Harden with Charcoal. 
The goods, finished in every respect but pol- 
ishing, are put into an iron box, and covered 
with animal or vegetable charcoal, and ce- 
mented at a red heat, for a period varying 
with the size and description of the articles 
operated on. 

3299. Moxon's Method of Case-Hard- 
ening. Cow's horn or hoof is to be baked 
or thoroughly dried, and pulverized, in order 
that more may be got into the box with the 
articles. Or bones reduced to dust answer the 
same purpose. To this add an equal quantity 
of bay salt; mix them with stale chamber- 
lye, or white wine vinegar; cover the iron 
with this mi sture, and bed it in the same in 
loam, or enclose it in an iron box ; lay it on 
the hearth of the forge to dry and harden ; 
then put it into the fire, and blow till the 
lump has a blood-red heat, and no higher, 
lest the mixture be burnt too much. Take 
the iron out, and immerse it in water. 

3300. To Case-Harden. Make a paste 
'with a concentrated solution of prussiate of j 
potash and loam, and coat the iron therewith; 
then expose it to a strong red heat, and when 
it has fallen to a dull red, plunge the whole 
into cold water. 

330 1 . To Case-H/vrden Pohshed Iron. 
The iron, previously p'jlished and finished, is 
to be heated to a bright red and rubbed or 
sprinkled over with prussiate of potash. As 
soon as the prussiate appears to be decompos- 
ed and dissipated, plunge the article into cold 
water. When the process of case-hardening 
has been well conducted, the surface of the j 
metal proves sufficiently hard to resist a file. | 
The last two plans are a great improvement | 
upon the common method. By the applica' ! 



tion of the prussiate, as in the last receipt, 
any part of a piece of iron may be case-hard- 
ened, without interfering with the rest. 

3302. Improved Process of Harden- 
ing Steel. Articles manufactured of steel 
for the purposes of cutting, are, almost with- 
out an exception, taken from the forger to the 
hardener without undergoing any interme- 
diate process; and such is the accustomed 
routine, that the mischief arising has escaped 
observation. The act of forging produces a 
strong scale or coating, which is spread over 
the whole of the blade ; this scale or coating 
is nnequal in substance, varying in proportion 
to the degree of heat communicated to the 
steel in forging ; it is almost impenetrable to 
the action of water when immersed for the 
purpose of hardening. Hence it is that dif- 
ferent degrees of hardness prevail in nearly 
every razor manufactured ; this is evidently a 
positive defect; and so long as it continues to 
exist, great difierence of temper must exist 
likewise. Instead, therefere, of hardening 
the blade from the anvil, let it be passed im- 
mediately from the hands of the forger to the 
grinder ; a slight application of the stone will 
remove the whole of the scale or coating, and 
the razor will then be properly prepared to 
undergo the operation of hardening with ad- 
vantage. It is plain that steel in this state 
heats in the fire with greater regularity, and 
that, when immersed, becomes equally hard 
from one extremity to the other. To this may 
be added, that, as the lowest possible heat at 
which steel becomes hard is indubitably the 
best, the mode here recommended will be 
found the only one by which the process of 
hardening can be efi"ected with a less portion 
of fire than is, or can be, required in any other 
way. These observations are decisive, and 
will, in all probability, tend to estabfish in 
general use what cannot but be regarded as a 
very important improvement in the manufac- 
turing of edge steel instniments. 

3303. To Case-Harden SmaU Articles 
of Iron. Fuse together, in an iron vessel 
or crucible, 1 part prussiate of potash and 10 
parts common salt, and allow the article to 
remain in the liquid 30 minutes, then put them 
in cold water and they will be case-hardened. 

3304. To Clean a Shot Gun. Wrap 
clean tow around the cleaning rod; then take 
a bucket of tepid water — soap-suds if procura- 
ble — and rnn the rod up and down the barrel 
briskly until the water is quite black. Change 
the water until it runs quite clear through 
the nipple; pour clean tepid water down 
the l)arrel, and rub dry with fresh clean tow ; 
^un a little sweet oil on tow down the barrel 
for use. To clean the stock, rub it with lin- 
seed oil. If boiling hot water is used the 
barrel will dry sooner, and no fear need be 
apprehended of its injuring the temper of a 
fine gun. Some sportsmen use boiling vine- 
gar, but we cannot recommend this method. 
The reason hot water does not injure the gun, 
is that boiling water is only 212^^ Fahr., and 
the gun was heated to 450° to give it its 
proper temper. 

3305. Grease for Anointing Gun- 
Barrels on the Sea-Shore. It is said that 
an ointment made of corrosive sublimate and 
lard will prove an efiectual protection against 
the rusting of gun-barrels on the sea-shore. 



304. 



ZINC^TIN 



3306. To Protect Polished Steel 
from Rust. ISTothing is equal to pure 
paraffine for preserving the poHshed surface 
of iron and steel from oxidation. The par- 
afl&ne should be warmed, rubbed on, and 
then wiped off with a woolen rag. It will 
not change the color, whether bright or blue, 
and will protect the surface better than any 
varnish. 

3307. To Protect Polished Metal 
from Rust. Take 10 pounds gutta-percha, 
20 pounds mutton suet, 30 pounds beef suet, 
2 gallons neats' foot oil, and 1 gallon rape oil. 
Melt together until thoroughly dissolved and 
mixed, and color with a small portion of rose 
pink ; oil of thyme or other perfuming matter 
may be added. "When cold the composition 
is to be rubbed on the surface of bright steel, 
iron, brass, or other metal, requiring protec- 
tion from rust. 

3308. To Remove Rust from Steel. 
Eust may be removed from steel by immers- 
ing the article in kerosene oil for a few days. 
The rust will become so much loosened that 
it may easily be rubbed off. By this simple 
method badly rusted knives and forks may be 
made to present a tolerable appearance, but 
for new goods there is no way to remove rust 
from metal but by getting below it, or renew- 
ing the surface. Where it is not deep-seated, 
emery paper will do, but if long standing the 
goods must be refinished. 

3309. New Mode of Removing Rust. 
Plunge the article in a bath of 1 pint hydro- 
chloric (muriatic) acid diluted with 1 quart 
water. Leave it there 24 hours; then take it 
out and rub well with a scrubbing-brush. The 
oxide will come off like dirt under the action 
of soap. Should any still remain, as is likely, 
in the corroded parts, return the metal to the 
bath for a few hours more, and repeat the 
scrubbing. The metal will present the ap- 
pearance of dull lead. It must then be well 
washed in plain water several times, and 
thoroughly dried before a fire. Lastly, a 
little rubbing with oil and fine emery powder 
wiU restore the polish. Should oil or grease 
have mingled with the rust, it wiQ be neces- 
sary to remove it by a hot solution of soda 
before submitting the metal to the acid. This 
last attacks the rust alone, without injuring 
the steel ; but the washing in plain water is 
aU-important, as, after the process, the metal 
will absorb oxygen from the atmosphere freely 
if' any trace of the acid be allowed to remain. 



Zinc. 2inc is a blueish white metal, 
having a specific gravity of 6.8 to 7.2 ; 
tough when cold, ductile and malleable at 
from 250° to 300° Fahr., brittle and easily 
pulverized at 500°; fuses at 773°, and sub- 
limes unchanged at a white heat, in close 
vessels. It is scarcely affected by exposure 
to air and moisture ; hence its general use in 
the arts for the manufacture of vessels of 
capacity, tubing, <fec., that require lightness 
and durability. Acids, even diluted, attack 
zinc rapidly. It is also soluble in caustic 
alkalies. Heated to whiteness, 941° Fahr., 
in contact with the air, it bums with great 
brilliancy, and is converted into oxide, 



(flowers of zinc). It is very soluble in dilute 
sulphmic and muriatic acid, with the evolu- 
tion of hydrogen gas. The salts of zinc are 
colorless. 

Commercial zinc is never pm-e, and is ob- 
tained from the native sulphuret (zinc blende) 
or carbonate (calamine), by roasting those 
ores, and distilling them along with carbon- 
aceous matter in a covered earthen crucible, 
having its bottom connected with an iron 
tube which terminates over a vessel of water 
situated beneath the furnace. The first por- 
tion that passes over contains cadmium and 
arsenic, and is indicated by what is technically 
called the Iroivn Maze ; but when the metallic 
vapor begins to burn with a blueish white 
flame, or the Miie Maze commences, the 
volatilized metal is collected. Zinc may be 
alloyed with most of the metals. (CooJey.) 

3311. Purification of Zinc. Granulate 
zinc by melting, and pouring it, while very 
hot, into a deep vessel filled with water. Place 
the granulated zinc in a Hessian crucible, in 
alternate layers, with one-fourth its weight 
of nitre, with an excess of nitre at the top. 
Cover the crucible, and secure the lid ; then 
apply heat. When deflagration takes place, 
remove from the fire, separate the dross, and 
run the zinc into an ingot mould. It is quite 
free from arsenic. 

3312. To Granulate Zinc. Granulated 
zinc is obtained by pouring the molten metal 
into a waiTDi mortar and triturating vigorously, 
with an iron pestle, untU it solidifies. (See 
^^o. 3311.) 

3313. To Color Metals. Make a solu- 
tion of 4 ounces hyposulphite of soda in I5 
pints of water, and add a solution of 1 ounce 
acetate of lead in the same quantity of water. 
Articles to be colored are placed in the mix- 
ture, which is then gradually heated to a 
boiling point. The effect of this solution is 
to give iron the effect of blue steel, zinc be- 
comes bronze, and copper or brass becomes 
successively yellowish red, scarlet, deep blue, 
blueish white, and finally white with a tinge 
of rose. This solution has no effect on lead 
or tin. By replacing the acetate of lead in 
the solution with sulphate of copper, brass 
becomes of a fine rosy tint, then green, and 
finally, of an iridescent brown color. Zinc 
does not color in this solution, it throws down 
a precipitate of brown sulphuret of copper ; 
but if boiled in a solution containing both 
lead and copper, it becomes covered with c, 
black crust, which may be improved by a thin 
coating of wax. (See iVo. 3188.) 



Tin. This metal approaches silver in 
whiteness and lustre. When pure, it 
is very malleable ; is harder than lead ; melts 
at 442° Fahr., and volatilizes at a white heat. 
Its specific gravity is 7.29 to 7.31. This met- 
al is decomposed by nitric, sulphuric, and 
muriatic acids; and may be combined and 
alloyed with most of the useful metals. Tin 
occurs in nature in the state of the oxide, and 
sometimes as sulphuret (tin pyrites.) In 
Cornwall, England, it is found under the name 
of tin- stone, associated with copper ore, in 
the slate or granite rocks ; and as an alluvial 



NICKEL 



305 



deposit (stream tin) in the beds of rivers. 
A pure article of tin comes from Banca. The 
metal is obtained from the ore, first reduced 
to powder in stamping mills, washed to re- 
move earthy matter, and then roasted to 
expel arsenic and sulphur ; it is then deoxi- 
dized or reduced by smelting with about ^ its 
weight of powdered culm (a kind of coal 
found in "Wales), and a little slacked lime ; it 
is next refined by liquation {see No. 21), fol- 
lowed by a second smelting of the purer por- 
tion ; it is then, while in a state of fusion, 
stirred with billets of green wood, allowed to 
settle, and cast into moulds. The product is 
termed refined or hloclc-tin. Tin produces a 
peculiar crackling noise when bent ; in this 
manner pure tin foil may be distinguished 
from the so-called tin foil in general use, 
which consists of lead with a tin surface only. 

3315. Tests for the Purity of Tin. 
It is almost entirely dissolved by hydrochloric 
acid, yielding a colorless solution of muriate 
(chlcwide) of tiu. If it contains arsenic, 
brownish-black flocks will be separated dur- 
ing the solution, and arseniuretted hydrogen 
evolved. The presence of other metals in tin 
may be detected by treating the muriate of 
tin solution with nitric acid, specific gravity 
1.16, first in the cold, and afterwards with 
heat, until all the tin is precipitated in an 
insoluble peroxide ; the decanted acid solu- 
tion from pure tin leaves no residuum on 
evaporation. If there be a residuum, and 
^lilution with water occasions a heavy white 
precipitate, the tin contained 'bismuth. If, 
after dilution, the addition of a solution of 
sulphate of ammonia or of soda produces a 
white precipitate, the tin contained lead. If 
red prussiate of potash gives a blue precipitate, 
it contained iron; and if the clear liquid 
leaves a residuum on evaporation, it contained 
cop'per. 

3316. G-rain Tin. This is made from 
block tin. The blocks are heated until they 
become brittle, and then allowed to fall from 
a considerable height, by which they are bro- 
ken into small fragments, which constitute 
grain tin, or tin in tears. 

3317. Tin Powder or Filings. Melt 
grain tiu {see No. 3316) in an iron vessel, pour 
it in an earthen-ware mortar heated a little 
above its melting point, and triturate brisk- 
ly as the metal cools ; lastly^ sift the product, 
and repeat the process with what remains in 
the sieve. Powdered tin is also prepared by 
filing and rasping. 

3318. Powdered Tin. Take Cornish 
grain tin ; melt it, and pour it into a wooden 
box, well rubbed on the inside with whiting 
or chalk ; close the cover, and continue shak- 
ing it violently until the tin is reduced to 
powder ; then wash it in clean water, and 
drv it immediately. 

3319. To Make Feathered Tin. The 
object of feathering is to bring the tin into a 
state of minute subdivision, which permits it 
to be much more rapidly dissolved in acids. 
Procure an iron ladle having a capacity of 
about 12 fluid ounces, and a wooden oi stone- 
ware vessel containing 2 or 3 gallons of cold 
water. About 1 pound of pure bar tin, free 
from lead, is to be cut into pieces of about 2 
inches in length, and melted in the ladle. 
"WTien melted, pour the tin in a very small 



stream, from a height of about 3 feet, into the 
cold water. The ladle should be moved 
around in a small circle, when pouring, for if 
the whole of the melted tin strikes the water 
at one point, it will cool in lumps, and re- 
quire remelting. The feathered tin is to be 
preserved in wooden boxes, the bottoms of 
which are perforated with small holes; or, 
what is better, kept in unglazed stoneware 
flower-pots. Solutions of tin containing iron 
or copper, or their salts, are unfit for dyeing 
bright reds. {See Nos. 107, ^-c. ) 

3320. Moire Metallique, or Crystal- 
lized Tin. A method of ornamenting the 
surface of tin plate by acids. The plates are 
washed with an alkaline solution, then in 
water, heated, and sponged or sprinkled with 
the acid solution. The appearance varies 
with the degree of heat and the nature and 
strength of the acids employed. The plates, 
after the application of the acids, are plunged 
into water, slightly acidulated, dried, and 
covered with white or colored varnishes. The 
following are some of the acid mixtures used : 
nitro-muriatic acid, in d'iferent degrees of di- 
lution ; sulphuric acid, with 5 parts of water, 
1 part of sulphuric acid, 2 of muriatic acid, 
and 8 of water ; a strong solution of nitric 
acid ; 1 part nitric acid, 2 sulphuric, and 18 
of water. A solution of potash is also used. 

3321. Frosted Tin. A frosted appear- 
ance may be given to sheet tin by a wash of 
bichloride of tin. 

3322. To Make a Tin Tree. Dissolve 
3 drachms muriate (chloride) of tin in 1 pint 
distiUed water, adding 10 or 15 drops nitric 
acid ; and suspend a small rod of clean zinc in 
a phial contairdng the above solution. 



Nickol. A white, hard, malleable, 
magnetic metal, capable of receiving 
the lustre of silver. Its specific gravity, when 
hammered, is about 8.82. Nickel is very in- 
fusible. Muriatic and sulphuric acid act on 
it with difficulty unless mixed with nitric 
acid, but it is freely soluble in the latter. 
JiTickel does not oxidize or tarnish at the or- 
dinary temperature. It alloys well with cop- 
per, tin, zinc, etc. It is obtained as follows : 
Eoast the powdered ore first by itself and 
then with charcoal powder, till all the arsenic 
is expelled, and a garlic odor ceases to be 
evolved ; mix the residuum with 3 parts sulphur 
and 1 part potash ; melfc in a crucible with a 
gentle heat, cool, edulcorate with water, dis- 
solve in sulphuric arid mixed with a little 
nitric acid, precipitate with carbonate of pot- 
ash, wash, dry, mix the precipitate with 
powdered charcoal, and reduce it by heat. 
For chemical purposes pure nickel is best ob- 
tained by moderately heating its oxalate in 
a covered crucible, lined with charcoal. The 
salts of nickel in the anhydrous state are for 
the most part yellow ; when hydrated, green, 
and furnishing pale green solutions. Nickel 
is found present in meteoric iron, and i!>' 
strongly magnetic, but loses this property 
when heated to 350° Fahr. It is chiefly 
employed in the manufacture of German sil- 
ver. Sulphate of nickel is used medicinally, 
with soothing and soporific effects. 



306 



MEBCUBY—AL UMINUM. 



Mercury or Quicksilver. 
This is a heavy liquid metal, possess- 
ing a nearly silver- white color, and a brilliant 
metallic lustre. The principal sources of this 
metal at the present time are the mines of Idria 
in Carniola, and Almaden in Spain, where it 
exists under the form of cinnabar, from which 
the pure metal is .obtained by distilling that 
ore with lime or iron filings in iron retorts, by 
which the sulphur it contains is seized and 
retained, while the mercury rises in the state 
of vapor, and is condensed in suitable receiv- 
ers. Its specific gravity, when pure, is 
13.5; it solidifies at —39° (39° below zero) 
Fahr., and when solid is ductile, malleable, 
and tenacious; boils at 662° Fahr., but vol- 
atilizes slowly at the ordinary temperature 
of the atmosphere, and when mixed with 
water at from 140° to 160°, it is volatilized in 
considerable quantities. It unites with oxy- 
gen, forming two oxides ; and with chlorine, 
forming calomel and corrosive sublimate; 
with the metals it forms amalgams, combin- 
ing, however, with difficulty with iron, nickel, 
platinum, and some other less important 
metals. Its oxides form salts with the acids. 
The only acids that act on metallic mercury 
are the sulphuric and nitric ; but for this pur- 
pose the former must be heated. 

3325. Test for the Purity of Mercury. 
Metallic mercury may be known by its vola- 
tility; and when in a finely divided or pal- 
verulent state, by the microscope, or by stain- 
ing a piece of copper white when rubbed on 
it, or when heated beneath it. It is totally 
dissipated by heat, and dissolved by diluted 
nitric acid, but is insoluble in boiling muriatic 
acid. The acid poured off, and allowed to 
cool, is neither colored, nor yields a precipi- 
tate with sulphuretted hydrogen. A globule 
moved about on a sheet of paper yields no 
trail ; pure sulphuric acid agitated with it (in 
the cold) evaporates when heated, without 
leaving any residuum. 

3326. To Purify Mercury. Mercury, 
as imported, is usually very pure. It may be 
prepared for medical purposes by putting 6 
parts into a retort and distilling off 4 parts. 
The whole of the mercury may, however, be 
safely drawn over. The product is to be agi- 
tated and boiled with 2 fluid drachms hydro- 
chloric acid and 1 fluid ounce water for each 
pound of the metal; then washed with pure 
water, and dried by heat. A strong earthen- 
<\^are or iron retort, with a low neck or tube 
dipping into a basin of water, may be used for 
this purpose. 

3327. To Purify Mercury. One of the 
quickest and best means of purifying mercury 
is to agitate it with a concentrated solution of 
nitrate of mercury, at a heat of 104° Fahr., 
then wash it with distilled water, and dry 
by passing several times through clean, dry 
chamois leather. 

3328. To Purify Mercury. Distill equal 
parts of mercury and iron filings in an iron 
retort, into a vessel containing water. 

3329. To Purify Merciiry. The fol- 
lowing simple method of purifying quicksilver 
is by Dr. Miller : Put the quicksilver into a 
bottle capable of containing 4 times its 
quantity, add a little powdered loaf sugar, 
and stopper the bottle; shake it vigorously 



for a few minutes, then open the bottle and 
blow fresh air into it with a pair of bellows. 
Kepeat this 3 or 4 times, and filter the mix- 
ture through a cone of smooth writing paper 
having its apex pierced with a fine pin. The 
sugar is left behind in the filter with the 
oxides of any other metals present, and a 
small quantity of mercury in a state of minute 
division. 



AlTimimim. This is the metallic 
r^ base of alumina, which is the plastic 
principle of certain kinds of clay. The color 
of aluminum is white, inclining to blue ; it is 
very malleable, and ductile. Its specific grav- 
ity is only about 2.60 ; its melting point not 
less than 1000° Fahr. It is the most sonorous 
of all metals. It is thus obtained : — Make a 
thick paste of alumina, powdered charcoal, 
sugar, and oil, and heat it in a covered cruci- 
ble until all the organic matter is destroyed ; 
then transfer the product to a porcelain tube, 
and connect the one end with another tube 
containing dried chloride of calcium, and the 
other end with a small tubulated receiver. 
Then expose the porcelain tube to the heat of 
a small oblong furnace, and, having connected 
the chloride of calcium tube with a vessel dis- 
engaging chlorine, pass the gas through the 
apparatus, at the same time raising the heat of 
the tube to redness. In 1 or 2 hours, or as 
soon as the tube becomes choked, the whole 
must be allowed to cool, and taken to pieces, 
and the sesquichloride of aluminum thus 
formed collected. Then place 9 or 10 pieces 
of potassium, of about the size of peas, in a 
platina crucible, and upon them an equal 
number of similar pieces of the sesquichloride 
of alumina, formed as above; the cover isnow 
to be put on and secured in its place with a 
wire, and the heat of a spirit lamp cautiously 
applied, until the spontaneous incandescence 
of the matter ceases. TVhen cold, throw the 
crucible into a large vessel of cold water, agi- 
tate and collect the gray powder deposited, 
and again wash it well and dry it. This gray 
powder consists of small metallic scales, re- 
sembling platina. It is not acted on by cold 
water, but is dissolved by the alkalies and 
some of the acids. Heated to redness, it 
catches fire and burns with great rapidity in 
the air, and in oxygen gas, with intense bril- 
liancy. The powder, blown upon the flame 
of a candle, displays an immense number of 
inflamed points of great splendor. 

3331. To Polisli Aluminum. The 
substances generally employed for polishing 
aluminum are of no utility. Mouray recom- 
mends the use of an emulsion of equal parts 
of rum and olive oil, made by shaking these 
liquids together in a bottle. When the bur- 
nishing stone is used, the peculiar black streaks 
first appearing should not cause vexation, 
since they do not injure the metal in the least, 
and may be removed with a woolen rag. The 
objects in question may also be brightened in 
potash lye, in which case, however, care must 
be taken not to make use of too strong a lye. 
For cleaning purposes, benzole has been found 
best. Objects of aluminum can be electro- 
plated without the least difficulty, and Mouray 
succeeded in imparting to them a bright, whito 



PLATINUM— ANTIMONY. 



307 



tustre in passing them successively through a 
weak bath of hydrofluoric acid and aquafortis. 
The effect thus obtained is said to be really 
surprising. 

3332. To Frost Aluminum. The 
metal is plunged iuto a solution of caustic 
potash. The surface, becoming frosted, does 
not tarnish on exposure to the air. 



Plgltilip.111 — also called platina — is 
the heaviest substance but one {see No. 
47) known, having a specific gravity of fully 
21, which may be raised to about 21.5 by 
hammering. It is whiter than iron, harder 
than silver, infusible in the hottest furnace, 
and melts only before the compound blow- 
pipe at a heat of about 3080° Fahr. On this 
account it is valuable for making capsules 
<fec., intended to resist strong heat. Platinum 
undergoes no change by exposure to air and 
moisture, or the strongest heat of a smith's 
forge, and is not attacked by any of the pure 
acids, but is dissolved by chlorine and nitro- 
muriatic acid (aqua regia), though with more 
difficulty than gold. Spongy and powdered 
platinum possess the remarkable property of 
causing the union of oxygen and hydrogen 
gases. It is chiefly imported from South 
America, but is also found in the TJral Moun- 
tains of Eussia, in Ceylon, and a few other 
places. Platinum, when alloyed with silver, 
is soluble in nitric acid ; the pure metal is dis- 
solved by aqua regia, and is more or less at- 
tacked by caustic alkali, nitre, phosphorus, 
<fcc., with heat. Platinum is precipitated from 
its solutions by deoxidizing substances under 
the form of a black powder, which has the 
power of absorbing oxygen, and again impart- 
ing it to combustible substances, and thus 
causing their oxidation. In this way alcohol 
and pyroxilic spirit may be converted into 
acetic and formic acids, &c. (See No. 1741, 
ulso Acetic Acid. ) ( Cooley. ) 

3334. To Purify Platinum. The na- 
tive alloy (crude platinum) is acted upon, as 
far as possible, with nitro-mmiatic acid, con- 
taining an excess of muriatic acid, and slight- 
ly diluted vdth water. The solution is preci- 
pitated by the addition of sal-ammoniac, 
which throws down nearly the whole of the 
platinum in the state of an ammonio-cliloride, 
which is washed with a little cold water, 
dried, and heated to redness ; the product is 
spongy metallic platinum. This is made into 
a thin uniform paste with water, pressed in a 
brass mould, to squeeze out the water and 
render the mass sufficiently solid to bear hand- 
ling. It is then dried, carefuUy heated to 
whiteness, and hammered or pressed in the 
heated state ; after this treatment it may be 
rolled into plates or worked into any desired 
shape. (Cooley). 

3335. Platinated Asbestos. Dip as- 
bestos in a solution of chloride of platinum, 
and heat it to redness. It causes the inflam- 
mation of hydrogen in the same manner as 
sponge platinum. 

3336. Spongy Platinum. Dissolve 
separately crude bichloride of platinum, and 
hydrochlorate of ammonia in proof spirit; 
add the one solution to the other as long as a 



precipitate falls ; this is collected, and, while 
still moist, formed into little balls or pieces, 
which are then dried, and gi-adually heated to 
redness. 

3337. Spongy Platinum. Dissolve 
platinum, by the aid of heat, in a mixture of 
three parts nitric and 5 parts muriatic acid, 
avoiding gi*eat excess of acid. To this solu- 
tion add a strong solution of muriate of am- 
monia; collect the resulting precipitate on a 
filter, and, when nearly dry, form it into a 
mass of the shape de&ired for the sponge. 
Heat this to whiteness on charcoal, with a 
blow-pipe or otherwise, and the platinum re- 
mains in the spongy state. Its characteristic 
properties may be restored, when lost, by 
simply heating it to redness. 

3338. Platinum-Black. Platina Mohr. 
This is platinum in a finely divided state, and 
is obtained thus : — Add to a solution of bi- 
chloride of platinum, an excess of carbonate 
of soda, and a quantity of sugar. Boil until 
the precipitate which forms becomes, after a 
little while, perfectly black, and the superna- 
tant liquid colorless ; filter the powder, wash, 
and dry it by a gentle heat. Another method 
is by melting platina ore with twice its weight 
of zinc, powdering, digesting first in dilute sul- 
phuric acid, and next in dilute nitric acid, to 
remove the zinc, assisting the action of the 
menstruum by heat; it is then digested in 
potash lye, and lastly in pure water, after 
which it is carefully dried. Platinum-black 
possesses the property of condensing gases, 
more especially oxygen, into its pores, and 
afterwards yielding it to various oxidizable 
substances. If some of it be mixed with al- 
cohol into a paste, and spread on a watch 
glass, pure acetic acid is given off, and affords 
a ready means of diffusing the odor of vinegar 
in an apartment. (See No. 1741.) 



A ntimony. TWs is a blmsh- white, 
r\. lustrous, semi-crystalline, extremely 
brittle metal, of about 6.7 specific gravity ; 
imparts brittleness to alloys ; inflammable at 
high temperature ; melts just under redness, 
810° Fahr., fumes, boils, and volatilizes at a 
white heat, and when suddenly exposed to 
the air, inflames and is converted into teroxide 
of antimony, which is deposited in beautfful 
crystals. Antimony dissolves in hot hy- 
drochloric acid, forming terchloride of anti- 
mony ; nitric acid converts it into antimonic 
acid. This metal Is obtained principally from 
France and Germany. Gold, when exposed 
to the vapors of antimony, loses its ductility 
and malleability, and becomes as brittle as 
antimony itself 

3340.' Tests for Antimony. An acid 
solution of antimony gives, in combination 
with sulphuretted hydrogen, an orange-red 
precipitate, sparingly soluble in ammonia, 
but readily soluble in pure potassa and alka- 
line sulphurets. Hydrosulphuret of ammonia 
throws down from the acid solution an 
orange-red precipitate, readily soluble in ex- 
cess of the precipitant, if the latter contain 
sulphur in excess ; and the liquor containing 
the re-dissolved precipitate gives a yellow or 
orange-yellow precipitate on the addition of 



308 



BISMUTH— ALLOYS. 



an acid. Ammonia, and potassa, and their 
carbonates (excepting in solutions of tartar 
emetic) give a bulky Tfhite precipitate ; that 
from ammonia being insoluble in excess of the 
precipitant; that from potassa readily so; 
while those from the carbonate are only solu- 
ble on the application of heat. 

3341. To Estimate tlie Purity of 
Antimony. Treat pulverized antimony 
with nitric acid ; this oxidizes the antimony, 
and leaves it in an insoluble state, whilst it 
dissolves the other metals. Collect the oxide 
on a filter, wash, dry, ignite, and weigh it. 
This weight, multiplied by .843, gives the 
weight of pm-e metal in the sample examined. 
If this has been previously weighed, the per- 
centage of pure metal is easily arrived at. 

3342. To Obtain Metallic Antimony. 
Mix together 16 parts sulphm-et of antimony 
and 6 parts cream of tartar, both in powder ; 
put the mixture, in small quantities at a time, 
into a vessel heated to redness ; when reaction 
ceases, fuse the mass, and, after 15 minutes, 
pour it out and separate the metal from the 
slag. The product is nearly pure. 

Or : Equal parts of protoxide of antimony 
and bitartrate of potassa (cream of tartar) ; 
mix and fuse as above, and pour the metal 
into small conical moulds. 

Or : 8 parts sulphuret of antimonj', 6 parts 
cream of tartar, and 3 parts nitre. Treated as 
above. 

Or : 2 parts sulphuret of antimony and 1 
part iron filings ; calcine at a strong heat in a 
covered crucible. 

3343. To Obtain Commercial Anti- 
mony. Fuse together 100 parts sulphm-et of 
antimony, 40 parts metallic iron, and 10 parts 
dry crude sulphate of soda. This produces 
from 60 to 65 parts of antimony, besides the 
scoriae or ash, which is also valuable. 



BlSmiltll. This metal is principal- 
ly prepared in Germany, and, as im- 
ported, generally contains both arsenic and 
copper. It is a crystalline metal, very brittle, 
of a reddish white color ; melts at about 500° 
Fahr., volatilizes at a strong heat, and the 
fumes form crystalline scales (flowers of bis- 
muth). It burns when strongly heated in 
the ah', and has a specific gravity of about 
9.8. The addition of bismuth to other metals 
lowers their melting point in an extraordi- 
nary manner, making it a useful ingredient in 
the composition of type-metal and solders. 
{See No. 3499, etc.) 

3345. To Purify Bismuth. Dissolve 
crude bismuth in nitric acid, and concentrate 
the solution by evaporation. Then pour the 
clear solution into a large bulk of distilled 
water, and a white powder (sub-nitrate of bis- 
muth) will be precipitated. Collect the precip- 
itate and digest it for a time in a little caustic 
potash, to dissolve away any arsenious acids 
that may be present ; next wash and dry the 
sub-nitrate ; heat it with about iV its weight 
of charcoal in an earthen crucible, and the 
pure bismuth will be found at the tjottom of 
the crucible. {Makins.) 

3346. To Separate Bismuth, from 
Xiead. Dissolve the mixed metal in nitric 



acid; add caustic potash in excess, and th^ 
oxides of bismuth and lead will be precipitated, 
but the lead oxide will be at once re-dissolved 
by the alkali. The oxide of bismuth can then 
be separated by filtration, washed, and igni- 
ted. {Makins.) 



Jl\^ with 



Combinations of the metals 
th each other obtained by fusion. 
When mercury is one of the component metals, 
the compound is termed an amalgam. {See 
No. 3532.) Most of the metals unite with 
each other by fusion or amalgamation, and 
acquire new properties. Thus : copper alloy- 
ed with zinc, becomes brass, and possesses a 
difierent density, hardness, and color to either 
of its constituents. jSTo general rules for the 
manufacture of aUoys applicable to each can 
be given; but it may be remarked that, in 
uniting metals difi'ering greatly in their melt- 
ing points, the least fusible should be melted 
first, and the others added, one at a time, in 
then- order of fusibility, the most fusible 
metal being the last to be added; also that, 
before the addition of each succeeding metal, 
the temperatm-e of the already fused mass 
should be reduced to the lowest point at which 
it will remain fluid, or as near as possilile to 
the fusing point of the metal to be next intro- 
duced, so that it may not evaporate or be 
oxidized, and thus cause the compound to b© 
imperfect. This is a general rule, to be ap- 
plied in most cases; but there are exceptions. 
For instance : gold will easily dissolve in 
melted tin; and platinum in many metals. 
If platinum were first melted, and zinc, for 
instance, added, the temperature necessary to 
obtain the fusion of platinum would be suffi- 
cient to volatilize the zinc. The mixture is 
usually efi'ected under a flux, or some material 
that win prevent evaporation and exposure to 
the atmosphere. Thus : in melting lead and 
tin together, in forming solder, resin or tallow 
is thrown upon the surface ; in tinning cop- 
per, the surface is rubbed with sal-ammoniac ; 
and in combining some metals, powdered 
charcoal is used for the same purpose. {See 
No. 3470.) As we have aheady said, most of 
the alloys are prepared by simply fusing the 
metals together; but if there be a considerable 
difi'erence in their specific gravities, the heav- 
ier very generally subsides, and the lower 
part of the mass thus difi'ers in composition 
from the upper. This may be in a great 
measure prevented by agitating the alloy till 
it solidifies, but this is not always convenient. 
Thus, in stereotype plates, which are cast ver- 
tically, the upper side usually contains more 
antimony than the other. As a general rule, 
the substances (elements) of nature unite 
together in fixed and definite atomic propor- 
tions, thereby forming new compounds. Met- 
als unite with non-metallic bodies, and obey 
the same general law; but metals, when 
united with metals, appear to form an excep- 
tion, though much doubt exists on the subject. 
They seem to mix in any proportion, and are 
thereby modified, possessing thereafter prop- 
erties which fit them for many purposes in 
commerce and art. These compounds, being 
considered at present non-chemical bodies, are 



ALLOTS. 



309 



classed together under the French term of al- 
loys. Alloys are generally more fusible than 
the least fusible of the component metals ; 
but are often harder and more brittle than the 



hardest and most brittle of the component 
metals. With some exceptions, the ductility 
and tenacity of an alloy is less than that of its 
metals. 



8348. Table of the Principal Alloys of Copper. This table of the alloys of copper 
is from Dr. Ure. The bronze for statues is the composition used by Keller Brothers, the 
celebrated brass founders. 



Antique bronze sword. 
" springs 

Bronze for statues 

" for medals 

" for cannon 

" for cymbals . . . 
" for gilding 



Speculum metal. 
Brass for sheet . . 
Gilding metal . - . 
Prince's metal . . . 



Dutch metal 

English wire 

Mosaic gold 

Gun metal for bearings, stocks, &g . 

Muntz's metal 

Good yellow brass 

Babbitt's metal for bushing 

Bell metal for large beUs 

Britannia metal 

Nickel silver, English 

" " Parisian 

German silver 

Pinchbeck 



Copper. 


Zinc. 


Tin. 


Nickel. 


Antimony 


Lead. 


87.000 




13.000 








97.000 




3.000 








91.400 


5.530 


1.700 






1.370 


90.000 




10.000 








90.000 




10.000 








78.000 




22.000 








82.257 


17.481 


0.238 






0.024 


80.000 


16.500 


2.500 






1.000 


66.000 




34.000 








84.700 


15.300 










73.730 


26.270 










75.000 


25.000 










50.000 


50.000 










84.700 


15.300 










70.290 


29.260 


0.170 






0.280 


66.000 


34.000 










90.300 


9.670 


030 








60.000 


40.000 










66.000 


34.000 










8.300 




83.400 




8.300 




80.000 




20.000 








1.000 


2.000 


81.000 




16.000 




60.000 


17.800 




22.200 






50.000 


13.600 




19.300 






50.000 


25.000 




25.000 






80.200 


20.000 











3349. Properties of Metals. The 

metals form part of the elements of nature, 
are undecompounded bodies, and distinguish- 
ed from the other elements by their lustre, 
weight, (fee. 

33 50. Table Showing, in their Order, 
the Comparative Properties of Metals. 



Order of MaUe- 


Order of 


Order of Brittle- 


abiUty. 


Ductility. 


ness. 


Gold, 


Gold, 


Antimony, 


Silver, 


Silver, 


Arsenic, 


Copper, 


Platinum, 


Bismuth, 


Ti^, 


Iron, 


Chromium, 


Cadmium, 


Copper, 


Cobalt, 


Platinum, 


Zinc, 


Manganese, 


Lead, 


Tin, 


Molybdenum, 


Zinc, 


Lead, 


Tellurium, 


Iron, 


Mckel, 


Titanium. 


Mckel, 


Palladium, 


Tungsten, 


Palladium, 


Cadmium, 


Uranium, 


Potassium, 




Khodium. 




Order of Heat Order of Elec- 


Order of Tenacity. 


Conducting 


trical Conduct- 1 




Power. 


ing Power. 


Irou, 1,000 


Gold, 


Copper, 
Gold, 


Copper, 550 


Platinum, 


Platinum, 494 


Silver, 


Silver, 


SHver, 349 


Copper, 


Zinc, 


Gold, 273 


Iron, 


Platinum. 


Zinc, 199 


Zinc, 


Iron, 


Tm, 63 


Tin, 


Tin, 


Lead, 50 


Lead, 


Lead, 

Mercury, 

Potassium. 



3351. Lustre is so characteristic as to 
have formed the common expression "me. 
taUic lustre." 

3352. Weight is also a rough distinguish- 
ing characteristic. 

3353. Fusibility is a property common 
to all metals. Before some metals are ren- 
dered fluid by heat, they become pasty ; such 
is an indication of malleability. The follow- 
ing table gives the degrees (Pahr.) of heat at 
which metals fuse : 

Tin 442° 

Bismuth 497° 

Lead 612° 

Zinc 773° 

Antimony 810° 

Silver. 1,873° 

Copper 1,996° 

Gold 2,016° 

Iron (Cast) 2,786° 

^^ckel 2,800° (about) 

Manganese 3,000° (about) 

3354. Malleability, or the property oi 
being beaten out into thin plates -without 
cracking or breaking, is common to several 
metals. 

3355. Ductility is also a property found 
m some metals. It is allied to malleability, 
and often confounded with it. It is the prop- 
erty of being drawn into wire. 

3356. Tenacity, or the resistance of 
beiag puUed asunder by the force of tension, 
varies exceedingly in metals. 

3357. Brittleness, resulting from hard- 
ness, is a property also met with ; and where 
the brittleness is not extreme, hardness is io 
favor where subjected to compression. 



310 



ALLOYS. 



3358. How to Make Brass. This use- 
ful alloy of copper and zinc is now generally 
made by plunging the copper in sKps into the 
zinc melted in the usual manner. The former 
metal rapidly combines with the fluid mass, 
and the addition is continued until an alloy is 
formed somewhat difficult of fusion, when the 
remainder of the copper is at once added. 
The brass thus formed is broken into pieces 
and remelted under charcoal, and a proper ad- 
dition of either zinc or copper made to bring 
it up to the color and quality desired. Small 
quantities of brass may be made by melting 
the copper and zmc separately, poming them 
together and stirring vigorously. {See Coj)- 
per Flux, No. 3470.) It is then poured into 
moulds of granite. Before being submitted 
to the rolling press for reduction to thin 
plates, it has to undergo the operation of 
annealing. In the receipts which follow, it 
wiU be seen that the larger the proportion of 
copper, the darker the color, the greater the 
density, and, to a certain extent, the tough- 
ness, of the alloy. Zinc lessens the weight 
and color. Tin gives it hardness and grain, 
and lead toughens it and renders it fitter for 
working. An application of these piinciples 
will serve as a guide for the metals and 
proportions to be used to produce a brass of 
any description required. 

3359. Fine Light Yellow Brass. 
Melt together 2 parts copper and 1 part zinc. 

3360. Bright Yellow Malleable 
Brass. Melt together 7 parts copper and 
3 parts zinc. 

3361. Deep Yellow Malleable Brass. 
Melt together 4 parts copper and 1 part zinc. 

3362. Brass Malleable whilst Hot. 
Melt together 3 parts copper and 2 parts zinc. 

3363. Bed Brass. Melt together 5 
parts copper and 1 part zinc. As much as 10 
parts of copper to 1 part zinc may be used, 
the color being a deeper red for every addi- 
tional part of copper employed. 

3364. Brass for Buttons. Copper, 8 
parts, and zinc 5 parts. This is the Birming- 
ham platin. 

3365. Pale Brass for Buttons, &c. 
Melt together 16 parts fine light yellow brass 
{see No. 3359), 2 parts zinc, and 1 part tin. 

3366. Common Pale Brass. Melt to- 
gether 25 parts copper, 20 parts zinc, 3 parts 
lead, and 2 parts tin. 

3367. Fine Pale Brass for Castings. 
Melt together 15 parts copper, 9 parts zinc, 
and 4 parts tin. This is rather brittle. 

3368. Dark Brass for Castings. Melt 
together 90 parts copper, 7 parts zinc, 2 parts 
tin, and 1 part lead. The color will be still 
deeper by using 2 parts less of zinc, and 1 part 

, more each of copper and tin. 
! 3369. Pale Brass for Gilding. Melt 
'together copper, 64 parts; 32 parts zinc, 3 
parts lead, and 1 part tin. 

3370. Red Brass for Gilding. Melt 
together 82 parts copper, 18 parts zinc, 3 parts 
tin, and 1 part lead. 

3371. Brass for Solder. Melt together 
12 parts fine yellow brass {see No. 3359), 6 
parts zinc, and 1 part tin. Used for ordinary 
crazing. 

3372. Pale Brass for Turning. Melt 
together 98 parts fine brass (.see No. 3359), 
ftnd 2 parts lead. 



3373. Red Brass for Turning. Melt 
together 65 parts copper, 33 parts zinc, 2 parts 
lead. 

3374. Red Brass for Wire. Melt to- 
gether 72 parts copper and 28 parts zinc, 
properly annealed. 

3375. Pale Brass for Wire. Melt to- 
gether 64 parts copper, 34 parts zinc, and 2 
parts lead. 

3376. To Make Brass which Ex- 
pands by Heat Equally with Iron. It is 
difficult to make a permanent joint between 
brass and iron, on account of their unequal 
expansion by heat. In a recent issue of the 
journal of '' Applied Chemistry," a new alloy 
is given, for which the inventor claims an ex- 
pansion by heat so nearly similar to that of 
iron, as to allow of a union between them, 
which, for all practical purposes, is perma- 
nent. This consists of a mixture of 79 parts 
copper, 15 parts zinc, and 6 parts tin. 

3377. To Harden Brass. Brass is 
tempered or hardened by rolling or hammer- 
ing; consequently, if any object is to be made 
of tempered brass, the hardening must be 
done before working it into the required 
shape. 

3378. To Soften Brass. Heat it to a 
cherrv red, and plunge it into water. 

3379. To Cover Brass with Beautiful 
Lustre Colors. Dissolve 1 ounce cream of 
tartar in 1 quart boiling water; then add k 
ounce protochloride of tin dissolved in 4 oun- 
ces cold water. ISText heat the whole to boil- 
ing, and decant the clear solution from a 
trifling precipitate, and pour, under continual 
stirring, into a solution of 3 ounces hyposul- * 
phate of soda in ^ pint water, then heat again 

to boiling, and filter from the separated sul- 
phur. This solution produces on brass the 
various lustre colors, depending on the length 
of time during which the articles are allowed 
to remain in it. The colors at first will be 
light to dark gold yellow, passing through aU 
the tints of red to an iridescent brown. A 
similar series of colors is produced by sulphide 
of copper and lead, which, however, are not 
remarkable for their stability; whether this 
defect wiU be obviated by the use of the tin 
solution, experience and time alone can show. 

3380. To Put a Black Finish on Brass 
Instruments. Make a strong solution of 
nitrate of silver in one dish, and of nitrate of 
copper in another. Mix the two together, 
and plunge the brass in it. Kow heat the 
brass evenly till the required degree of dead 
blackness is obtained. This is the method of 
producing the beautiful dead black so much 
admired in optical instruments, and which 
was so long kept a secret by the French. 

3381. To Frost Watch Movements, 
Mix together 1 ounce each muriatic acid, ni- 
tric acid, and common salt ; immerse the arti- 
cle, as far as it is to be frosted, in the mixture 
for a short time ; then immerse it, so as just 
to cover it, in sour beer, and scour it under 
the beer with a brush made of fine brass wire 
(a scratch brush); wash it in water, and after- 
wards in alcohol. The surface is then ready 
to gild or silver-plate if desired. 

3382. To Color Brass. Although no 
alloy presents a more agreeable appearance 
to the eye than brass when it is in a high 
state of polish, yet the facility with which it 



ALLOYS. 



311 



tarnishes has rendered it necessary to color or 
bronze it, especially in those instances where 
its use exposes it to the liability of being fre- 
quently handled. The following receipts are 
from a reliable German source, and are said 
to possess a high degree of permanence. (See 
Nos. 3771, 4'C.) 

3383. To Give Brass an Orange Tint. 
An orange tint, incHning to gold, is produced 
by first polishing the brass and then plunging 
it for a few seconds into a neutral solution of 
crystallized acetate of copper, care being taken 
that the solution is completely destitute of 
all free acid, and possesses a warm tempera- 
ture. 

3384. To Color Brass Grey-Green. 
Dipped into a bath of copper, the brass being 
first polished, as in last receipt, the resulting 
tint is a grayish green, 

3385. To Color Brass Violet. A beau- 
tiful violet is obtained by immersing the pol- 
ished brass for a single instant in a solution of 
chloride of antimony, and rubbing it with a 
stick covered with cotton. The temperature 
of the brass at the time the operation is in 
progress has a great influence upon the beauty 
and delicacy of the tint ; in this instance it 
should be heated to a degree so as just to be 
tolerable to the touch. 

3386. To Give Brass a Moir6 Ap- 
pearance. A moire appearance, vastly su- 
perior to that usually seen, is produced by 
boiling the object in a solution of sulphate of 
copper. According to the proportions ob- 
served between the. zinc and the copper in the 
composition of the brass, so will the tints ob- 
tained vary. In many instances it requires 
the employment of a slight degree of friction, 
with a resinous or waxy varnish, to bring out 
the wavy appearance characteristic of moire, 
which is also singularly enhanced by drop- 
ping a few iron nails into the bath. 

3387. Black Lacquer for Brass. 
There are two methods of procuring a black 
lacquer upon the surface of brass. The one 
usually employed for optical and scientific 
instruments consists in first pohshing the 
object with Tripoli, then washing it with a 
mixture composed of 1 part nitrate of tin and 
2 parts chloride of gold, and, after allowing 
this wash to remain for nearly a quarter of 
an hour, wiping it ofi" with a linen cloth. 
An excess of acid increases the intensity of 
the tint. 

By another method copper turnings are dis- 
solved in nitric acid until the acid is saturated ,: 
the objects are cleaned, immersed in the solu- 
tion, and subsequently heated moderately 
over a charcoal fire. This process must be 
repeated in order to produce a black color, as 
the first trial only gives a deep green, and 
the finishing touch is to polish with olive oil. 

3388. To Give Brass an English 
Look. Much pains are taken to give brass 
objects an Enghsh look. For this purpose 
they are first heated to redness, and then .dip- 
ped in a weak solution of sulphmic acid. 
Afterwards they are immersed in dilute nitric 
acid, thoroughly washed in water, and dried 
in sawdust. To effect a uniformity in the 
color they are plunged into a bath consisting 
of 2 parts nitric acid and 1 part rain water, 
where they are suffered to remain for several 
minutes. Should the color not be free from 



spots and patches, the operation must be 
repeated until the desired effect is produced. 

3389. To Clean Brass. Brass rid cop- 
per are best cleaned with sweet oil and Tripoli, 
powdered bath-brick, rotten stone, or red 
brick-dust, rubbed on with flannel and polish- 
ed with leather, Yitriol and muriatic acid 
make brass and copper very bright, but they 
very soon tarnish, and consequently require 
more frequent cleaifing, A strong lye of roche- 
alum and water will also improve brass. A 
solution of oxalic acid rubbed over tarnished 
brass with a cotton rag, soon removes the 
tarnish, rendering the metal bright. The acid 
must be washed off with water, and the brass 
rubbed with whitening in powder and soft 
leather. When acids are employed for re- 
moving the oxide from brass, the metal must 
be thoroughly washed afterwards, or it will 
tarnish in a few minutes after being exposed 
to the air. 

3390. To Give a Golden Color to 
Brass. A mixture of muriatic acid and 
alum dissolved in water imparts a golden 
color to brass articles that are steeped in it for 
a few seconds. 

3391. Paste to Clean Brass. Soft 
soap, 2 ounces ; rotten-stone, 4 oances ; beat 
them to a paste. Or: Kotten stone made 
into a paste with sweet oil. Or : Rotten-stone, 
4 ounces; oxalic acid, 1 ounce; sweet oil, 1^ 
ounces ; turpentine enough to make a paste. 
The first and last are best applied with a litt! 3 
water. The second, with a little spirits of 
turpentine, or sweet oil. Both require fric- 
tion with soft leather. 

3392. To Clean Brass Inlaid "Work. 
Mix Tripoli and linseed oil, and dip into it a, 
rubber made of a piece of an old hat, with 
which polish the work and rub off with clean 
soft leather. If the wood be ebony or rose- 
wood, polish it with a little finely powdered 
elder ashes ; or make a paste of rotten-stone,, 
a little starch, sweet oil, and oxalic acid,, 
mixed with water. The ornaments of a French 
clock are, however, best cleaned with bread- 
crumb, carefully rubbed, so as not to spoil 
the wood-work. Ormolu candlesticks, lamps,, 
and branches, may be cleaned with soap and 
water. They will bear more cleaning than 
lacquered articles, which are spoiled by fre- 
quent rubbing, or by acids or strong alkalies. 

3393. Solutions to Clean Brass. 
Finely powdered sal-ammoniac; water to 
moisten. Or : Roche alum, 1 part ; water, 16 
parts. Mix. The articles to be cleaned must 
be made warm, then rubbed with either of the 
above mixtures and finished with fine Tripoli, 
This process will give them the brilliancy of 
gold. 

3394. Solution for Cleaning Bras& 
Chains. Mix together 1 ounce sulphuric 
acid, f ounce nitric acid, 5 drachm saltpetre,, 
and 1 ounce rain water, and allow the solu- 
tion to repose a few hours. Pass the article 
to be cleaned rapidly through the solution, 
and immediately wash it thoroughly with rain 
water. Dry in sawdust. This process will 
make old and discolored chains look as good 
as new. 

3395. To Clean Very Dirty Brass. 
Rub some bichromate of potassa fine, pour 
over it about twice the bulk of sulphuric acid, 
and mix this with an equal quantity of water. 



312 



ALLOYS. 



"Wash immediately in plenty of water, wipe 
it, and rub perfectly dry, and polish with pow- 
dered rotten-stone. By this method the 
dirtiest brass may be made immediately 
bright. 

3396. To Give Brass Ornaments a 
Fine Color. Brass ornaments, when not 
gilt or lacquered, may be cleansed, and a fine 
color given to them, by two simple processes. 
The first is to beat sal-ammoniac into a fine 
powder, then to moisten it with soft water, 
rubbing it on the ornaments, which must be 
afterwards rubbed dry with bran and whiting. 
The second is to wash the brass work with 
roche alum boiled to a strong lye, in the 
proportion of 1 ounce to 1 pint; when dry, 
it must be rubbed with fine Tripoli. Either of 
these processes will give to brass the brilliancy 
of gold. 

3397. Counterfeit Gold. Fuse together 
8 parts platinum, 5 parts pm-e copper, 2 parts 
pure zinc, 4 parts tin, and 3 parts pure lead, 
using saltpetre, sal-ammoniac, and powdered 
charcoal as fluxes. This compound metal 
strongly resembles gold in appearance, and 
resists many of the tests used for gold. 

3398. Hard Gold. A mixture of 7 parts 
gold and 1 part copper appears to afford the 
maximum of hardness. 

3399. Coin Gold. Melt together with 
saltpetre and sal-ammoniac, 22 grains pure 
gold with 2 grains of pure copper. The later 
American coin is alloyed with 2 grains of 
a mixture of 1 part silver and 2 parts copper 
The copper used for alloying gold must be j 
pure, otherwise the mixture will be brittle. 

3400. To Make Eighteen Carat Gold. 
Pure gold, 18 parts, is alloyed with 4 parts 
pure copper and 2 parts silver. Or: 191 
parts coin gold, 3 parts copper, and Ik parts 
silver. 

3401. To Make Sixteen Carat Gold. 
Sixteen parts pure gold are mixed with 55 
parts copper, and 2i parts silver. Or: 17 
parts coin gold, 5 parts copper, and 2 parts 
silver. 

3402. To Make Twelve Carat Gold. 
iCoin gold, 75 parts ; further alloyed with 40 
parts copper, and 22 parts silver, make a com- 
bination of good appearance, which stands 
acid tests well. 

3403. To Make Four Carat Gold. A 
good useful metal for cheap rings, &c., which 
will not blacken the finger, is made by mix- 
ing 4 parts gold with 2 parts silver, and 18 
parts copper. 

3404. To Make Green Gold. Pure 
gold, 19 parts, and 5 parts pure silver, com- 
bine to form an alloy of a beautiful green 
shade, very effective for foliated designs in 
jewelry. 

3405. Pivots for Artificial Teeth. 
An alloy of platinum and silver is used for 
this purpose. 

3406. Chaudet's Springs for Arti- 
ficial Teeth. Equal parts of copper, silver, 
and palladium. 

3407. Hard Silver. An alloy of 5 parts 
silver and 1 part copper forms the hardest alloy 
of these metals. 

3408. French Coin Silver. This con- 
sists of 9 parts silver and 1 part copper. 

3409. German Silver. This is a well- 
known alloy, the finer varieties of which 



nearly equal silver in whiteness and suscepti- 
bility of receiving a high polish, while they 
surpass it in hardness and durability. The 
mixture of the metals is effected in the same 
way as is given for making alloys. (Sec No. 
3347.) The receipts here given are from the 
highest authorities, or are the results of 
actual analysis of the finest commercial sam- 
ples. 

3410. German Silver for Rolling. 
Mckel and zinc, each 1 part ; copper, 2 parts. 
Yery fine. Or: nickel, 25 parts; zinc, 20 
parts; copper, 60 parts. Used for rolling. 

3411. German Silver for Castings. 
j^ickel and zinc, each 20 parts ; copper, 60 
parts; lead, 3 parts. For castings. Or, to 
either of the above add 2 to 3 per cent, of white 
sheet iron. 

3412. Genuine German Silver. Cop- 
per, 40^ parts; nickel, 31^ parts; zinc, 25^ 
parts; iron, 2h parts. This resembles the 
genuine German silver made from the ore 
of Hildburghausen, as well as Pakfong, as 
analyzed by Dr. Fyfe, and is equal to the best 
Chinese sample. 

3413. Pelouze's German Silver. 
Equal parts of copper and nickel. Said to be 
superior to any of the alloys containing zinc. 
2 parts of copper to 1 part of nickel make the 
alloy more malleable, though not so white. 

3414. Chinese White Copper. This 
consists of 30 parts copper, 36 parts nickel, 
and 34 parts zinc. 

3415. Pakfong, or White Copper 
from China. This is composed of 41 parts 
copper, 32 parts nickel, 2^ parts iron, and 24^ 
parts zinc. The Chinese Pakfong is said to 
iDe prepared from native ore. It is silverj 
white, takes a high polish, very sonorous, 
malleable both cold and at a dull red heat, 
and may be rolled into leaves or drawn into 
wire. 

3416. White Spoon Metal. This is 
the alloy sold as German plate. Melt to- 
gether 55 parts copper, 24 parts nickel, 16 
parts zinc, 3 parts tin, and 2 parts iron. This 
is a useful alloy. 

3417. Britannia Metal. Plate brass, 4 
ounces ; tin, 4 ounces ; when fused add 4 
ounces each of bismuth and antimony. This 
composition is added at discretion to melted 
tin. 

3418. To Clean Britannia Ware. 
Britaimia ware should be first washed with a 
woolen cloth and sweet oil, then washed in 
water and suds, and rubbed with soft leather 
and whiting. Thus treated, it will retain its 
beauty to the last. Britannia ware may also 
be cleaned in the same way as copper, in ISTo. 
3252. 

3419. Type Metal. Lead, 3 parts ; anti- 
mony, 1 part ; melted together. Small types 
are usually made of a harder composition than 
large ones. A good stereotype metal is said 
to be made of lead, 9 parts ; antimony, 2 parts ; 
bismuth, 1 part. This alloy expands as it 
cools, and consequently brings out a fine im- 
pression. 

3420. Bismuth and Lead. Lead, 2 
parts to bismuth, 1 part, gives an alloy which 
dilates powerfully at the time of cooling. 
This property makes it extremely suitable to 
all castings in which the greatest sharpness 
and finish are desirable. 



ALLOYS. 



313 



8431. Tin and Zinc. Tin and zinc, of 
each 1 part, is almost as tenacious as brass, 
fend melts at 900° Fahrenheit. 

3422. Pewter. Tin, 100 parts ; antimony, 
8 parts ; copper, 4 parts ; and bismuth, 1 part, 
constitute the compound commonly called 
pewter. 

3423. Alloys of Steel. Steel is success- 
fully alloyed with other metals, improving its 
qualities for some purposes. s-J^j part of silver 
adds immensely to the hardness of steel, and 
yet increases its tenacity, y^ part of plati- 
num, though not forming so hard an alloy as 
the silver and steel, gives a very great degree 
of toughness. Ehodium, palladium, iridium, 
and osmium make steel very hard, but their 
use, from their cost, is confined mainly to the 
experimental laboratory. Platinum, in its 
malleable state, may be' cut with a knife ; but 
"With steel it forms an alloy not to be touched 
■with a file. 

3424. Iron, Copper, and Zinc. An al- 
loy consisting of 10 parts cast iron, 10 copper, 
and 80 zinc, does not adhere to the mould in 
casting, and it is of a beautiful lustre when 
filed and polished. The least fusible metals 
are melted first, and the zinc last, in making 
it. 

3425. Ormolu, or Mosaic Gold. Cop- 
per and zinc, equal parts ; melt together at the 
lowest possible temperature at which copper 
will fuse, and stir so as to produce a perfect 
admixture of the metals ; then add gradually, 
small portions of zinc at a time, until the alloy 
acquires the proper color, which is perfectly 
white, while in the melted state. It must 
then be at once cast into figured moulds. 
This alloy should contain from 52 to 55 per 
cent, of zinc. 

3426. Wliite Metal. Lead, 10 ounces ; 
bismuth, 6 ounces; and antimony, 4 drachms; 
or, 2 pounds antimony, 8 ounces brass, and 10 
ounces tin. 

3427. French. Alloy for Forks and 
Spoons. This is a beautiful white metal, 
very hard, and taking a fine polish. It is 
composed of 69.8 parts of copper, 19.8 parts 
nickel, 5.5 of zinc, and 4.7 of cadmium. 

3428. French Silver. The new French 
silver is apparently an improvement on the 
old-fashioned German silver, and it is stated to 
be applicable to all the pui-poses to which or- 
dinary commercial silver is applicable. It is 
composed of copper, 56 per cent., nickel, 40.64, 
tungsten, 2.0, aluminum, 0.56. It is a white, 
ductile, malleable, tenacious, sonorous alloy; 
its specific gi-avity is nine-tenths that of sil- 
ver, its metallic lustre superior to that of sil- 
ver, and its fusibility less, probably on account 
of the tungsten it contains. 

3429. "The Alloys of Aluminum. A7e 
have to distinguish between alloys in which 
the aluminum predominates and such ones in 
which the other metals outweigh the latter. 
Those impart to the aluminum new proper- 
ties. Iron and copper do not act injuriously 
if the admixture is not considerable. In re- 
gard to toughness, the union of 7 per cent, of 
iron can scarcely be distinguished from pure 
aluminum. Both metals easily combine with 
each other. Commercial aluminum mostly 
contains iron; it remains ductile with as 
much as 10 per cent, of copper, and when 
contauung only half as much, it may be 



worked still easier. If alloyed with smaL 
quantities of zinc, tin, gold, or silver, the 
metal is rendered hard and more brilliant, but 
remains ductile. Especially recommended is 
the alloy consisting of 97 per cent, of alum- 
inum, and 3 per cent of zinc. The alloy with 
7 per cent, of tin can be worked well, but does 
not take a very fine polish, and cannot be 
cast, since a more fusible alloy with a large 
proportion of tin is separated. Aluminum 
and lead do not unite. The composition with 
3 per cent, of silver and 97 of aluminum pos- 
sesses a beautiful color, and in equal parts 
they yield an alloy of the hardness of bronze. 
The union of 99 per cent, of aluminum and 1 
of gold is, though hard, still ductile ; its color 
is that of green gold, ^ith 10 per cent, of 
gold, the composition is rendered crystalline. 
In combining aluminum with copper, the lat- 
ter must be melted first, and the former added 
gradually in small portions at a time. A com- 
bination of 10 parts aluminum and 90 parts 
copper produces a fine aluminum bronze, 
which, however, is brittle after the first mix- 
ing; it increases in strength and tenacity only 
after successive fusions, but with the loss, 
each time, of a little aluminum. This bronze 
may be forged at a dull red heat without pre- 
senting flaws or cracks. Like copper, it is 
rendered more ductile by being heated and 
plunged into cold water. 

3430. Copper and Aluminum for 
Journals. The most important alloy of 
aluminum is that composed of 90 per cent, of 
copper and 10 per cent, of aluminum. It pos- 
sesses a pale gold color, a hardness surpassing 
that of bronze, is susceptible of taking a fine 
polish, and is easier forged than soft iron. 
This aUoy has found a ready market, and, if 
less costly, would replace red and yellow 
brass. Its hardness and tenacity render it 
pecuharly adapted for the journals and bear- 
ings of machinery. Christofle, of Paris, who 
uses it for a journal for a poHshing disk, 
found that it lasted six times longer than or- 
dinary journals — that is, 18 months. There 
were 2200 revolutions made per minute. It 
is further stated, on good authority, that a 
journal of this new bronze, which was em- 
ployed for the axle of a sewing machine, mak- 
ing 240 revolutions per minute, did excellent 
service for 1 year without indicating the least 
deficiency. Journals of ordinary bronze do 
not, as is well known, last over 5 months. 
^Wlien more than 10 per cent, of aluminum 
enters into the composition of the bronze, the 
alloy gradually becomes weaker and less mal- 
leable, and at length so brittle that it is easily 
pounded in a mortar. 

3431. Oroide, or Artificial Gold. This 
material is manufactured largely in the United 
States into imitation jewelry and other arti- 
cles, scarcely distinguishable from gold, ex- 
cept by the inferior gravity ; and it is a mat- 
ter of surprise to almost any one to learn that 
it does not contain a single grain of the pre- 
cious metal. It is made by taking 100 parts of 
pure copper, 17 of pure tin, 6 of magnesia, 9 
of tartar of commerce, 3.6 of sal-ammoniac, 
and 1.6 of unslacked lime. The copper is first 
melted, and the other substances (excepting 
the tin) added, a little at a time, and the 
whole well stirred for 30 minutes, so as to 
produce a perfect mixture, when the tin is 



S14: 



ALLOTS. 



thro^tvn in and stirred round until melted. 
The crucible is then covered, and the fusion 
kept up for 25 minutes, and the scum taken 
off, when the substance is ready for use. It 
is maUeable and ductile, and can be Tvorked 
in any form, even into leaves like gold. The 
aUoy may also be made by substituting gran- 
ulated zinc for tin, but it mil not retain its 
brilliancy so long as when tin is employed. 

3432. Talmi Gold. A beautiful gold- 
colored alloy, sold under the above name, 
gives, on analysis : copper, 86.4 ; zinc, 12.2 ; 
tin, 1.1 ; iron, 0.3. The presence of the iron 
vras probably accidental. 

3433. Yellow Dipping Metal. Melt 
together 2 parts brass, 1 part copper, with a 
little old brass, and ;!• ounce tin to every pound 
of copper. This aUoy is almost of the color, 
etc., of gold coin. 

3434. Alloy of the Staaidard Mea- 
sure used by Govemment. This is com- 
posed of copper, 576 parts ; tin, 59 ; yellow 
"bra?;s (22 copper to 1 of zinc), 48 parts. 

3435. Dentists' Tin Alloys for Moidds. 
The gold plates on which artificial teeth are 
fastened, are fashioned to fit exactly to the 
mouth by being hammered between a mould 
and die, cast from a plaster model of the 
mouth. The plaster model is obtained from 
a mould of wax, pressed while soft into the 
cavities of the mouth, and allowed to harden. 
Duplicate moulds and dies are necessary, at 
different stages of the hammering, in order to 
obtain a perfectly fitting plate. The neces- 
sary characteristics of the metals used for the 
moulds and dies are fusibility, hardness, or 
toughness, and, especially for the moulds, a 
freedom from shrinkage in cooling. The 
metal usually employed for the dies consists 
of 8 parts tin, 1 part lead, and 1 part bismuth. 
This compound is much harder than tin, melts 
at a lower heat, shrinks little, or practically 
none, in casting; is tough and strong. It 
melts at about 330° Fahr. Although gener- 
ally a harder and less fusible metal is used 
for the first swaging, this alloy is particularly 
convenient for taking duplicate dies for finish- 
ing. Its tenacity adapts it for cases of partial 
sets representing the teeth. The mould or 
counter-die metal is made by adding to 1 part 
of this mixture 6 parts of lead. The result is 
harder than lead, and does not yield like it 
under the blow, presenting a resistance suffi- 
cient to drive the plate up well against the 
die. Its shrinkage is but slight ; i^ melts at 
from 450° to 460°. It is designed for use 
when the dipping process is resorted to. This 
consists in pouring the melted metal into an 
appropriately shaped vessel or mould, and 
pressing the plaster model into the metal 
before the moment of congelation. If used at 
the point of congelation, the plaster cast may 
be employed without previous baking ; other- 
wise it should be baked to expel its water of 
crystallization. 

3436. Hard Tin AUoys for Dentists' 
Moulds. The following formula affords a 
highly useful alloy, where toughness as weU 
as hardness is essential: tin, 16 parts; anti- 
mony, 1 part; zinc, 1 part. This aUoy is 
much harder than the preceding die metal, 
and equals it in tenacity, being suited for any 
kind of die ; it requires a higher temperature 
to melt it, but it melts sooner than tin, or 



than the mould-metal mentioned in the pre- 
ceding receipt, from a matrix of which & die 
may be taken by it with safety. It affords, 
in sand, a perfect die, does not shrink, and, 
whether poured into a sand or metal mould, 
comes out with a smooth, bright face. It is 
the best combination of these three metals 
for the purpose. But when dies are made of 
I it from sand moulds, and a more fusible metal 
I is needed for taking counter-dies or moulds 
j from them, it may be had by a combination 
I of 5 parts lead, 2 bismuth, and 1 tin ; or, 5 
' parts lead, 3 to 4 bismuth, and 1 tin afford 
a still more fusible compound, although harder. 
3437. Copper Alloys for Dentists' 
Moulds. A very hard and most valuable 
alloy for general use may be had by a mixture 
of tin, 12 parts ; antimony, 2 parts ; copper, 

1 part. It is not much' inferior to zinc in 
hardness, casts without sensible shrinkage, 
and makes a perfect and very handsome die, 
bright and smooth. It is less fusible than the 
hard tin die metal in last receipt, but may be 
used for taking dies from the mould-metal 
mentioned in Xo. 3435; but, as it melts at 
nearly the same temperature, this requires 
care. It will be found of value in connection 
with lead moulds made by dipping. (SeeXo. 
3435.) It is rather brittle for dies for partial 
sets representing the teeth, as these are liable 
to break on removing from the matrix; but it 
is abundantly strong enough for swaging pur- 
poses. In combining these metals (which 
may be done in an ordinary charcoal furnace, 
as it is by no means necessary to raise the 
heat to the melting point of copper), place 
the copper in a crucible and bring it to a red 
heat, then pour in the tin and antimony, 
melted, and cover the whole with charcoal 
dust, to prevent oxidation. The copper will 
soon liquefy, or dissolve, as it were, combining 
perfectly with the other metals, without fur- 
ther elevation of temperature. To guard 
better against volatilization of antimony, 
which takes place at a high red heat, it is 
well enough to add to the copper but half the 
tin at first, and when these are combined, add 
the antimony, and then the remaining tin. 
This also enables one to conduct the second 
melting in a larger crucible, or, indeed, in an 
iron ladle. It is best to let the melted mass 
cool down some, before pouiing it from the 
crucible, as, if poured out at too high a heat, 
the alloy oxidizes. A larger proportion of 
antimony and zinc increases the hardness of 
the metal, but with a tendency to imperfect 
castings. If tin be used in larger quantity, 
the alloy is, of course, softer, and it shrinks 
when cast. The relative proportion of zinc 
and antimony, in respect to each other, may 
be somewhat varied, without material modi- 
fication of the quahties of the compound ; but, 
for the best results, the sum of these two met- 
als should hold to the quantity of tin em- 
ployed the ratio of about 1 to 8. " For fluidity, 
an excess of antimony over copper appears to 
be requisite. For non-shrinkage, the joint 
amount of antimony and copper should be to 
the quantity of tin as about 1 to 4 ; as, for 
example, 8 parts tin, 1 antimony, 1 copper; 
or, 10 tin, l|- antimony, 1 copper ; or, 12 tin, 

2 antimony, 1 copper. For taking counter- 
dies or moulds from dies of the last named 
aUovs, a suitable metal, fusible at about 380° 



ALLOYS. 



315 



Fahr., is had by a mixture of 3 parts lead, 1 
part bismuth, and not over xou part tin. It 
IS wonderful how small a quantity of tin 
serves to improve the alloys of lead and bis- 
muth, giving them a white, clear lustre, 
preventing oxidation, promoting fusibility — in 
short, producing almost a new metal. 

3438. Cadmium Alloys for Dentists' 
Moulds. By the use of cadmium we may 
produce still harder alloys than any of the 
preceding, possessing m an equal degi-ee every 
other desirable quahty. Thus, 10 parts of tin, 
1 part of antimony, 1 of copper, and 1 of 
cadmium, produce a compound which has 
about the hardness of zinc : it casts perfectly, 
and is nearly all that could be desired, except 
that, Hke the copper die metals, it is rather 
brittle for certain castings. {See Xo. 3437.) 
Substituted for copper in these connections, 
cadmium appears to confer greater hardness 
and toughness, and, up to a certain point, pro- 
motes fusibility, 9 parts of tin, 1 part of an- 
timony, and 1 part cad-mium, furnish a very 
hard and tough metal of a compact, homo- 
geneous structure, which casts without shrink- 
age, forming a perfect die with a smooth, 
bright face. It melts at about the melting 
point of tin. In the employment of cadmium, 
care must be taken not to subject it to a heat 
high enough to volatilize it. To avoid this 
danger, it is best to unite the other metals 
first, and then add the cadmium at a heat 
barely sufficient to melt it. The great objec- 
tion to this metal is its expensiveness. 

3439. Alloy of Nickel and Copper. 
A mixture of 1 part nickel and 2 parts copper 
produces a grayish-white metal, tenacious, ' 
ductile, and moderately fusible. j 

3440. AUoys of Platinum and Cop- | 
per, A compound of 1 part platinum and 4 ; 
parts copper is of a yellow-pink color, hard, ; 
ductile, and susceptible of a fine polish. 

An alloy of 3 parts platinum and 2 parts 
copper is nearlv white, verv hard, and brittle. 

3441. French Bell Metal. The metal 
used in France for hand-bells, clock bells &e., 
is made of 55 to CO parts copper, 30 to 40 
parts tin, and 10 to 15 parts zinc. 

3442. Red Tombac. Put into a cruci- 
ble 51 pounds copper; when fused add k 
pound zinc ; these metals will combine, form- 
ing an aUoy of a reddish color, but possessing 
more lustre than copper, and also greater 
durability. 

3443. Wliite Tombac. "WTien copper 
is combined with arsenic, by melting them 
together in a close crucible, and covering the 
surface with common salt, to prevent oxida- 
tion, a white brittle alloy is formed. 

3444. Speculum Metal for Tele- 
scopes. Melt 7 pounds of copper, and when j 
fused add 3 pounds zinc and 4 pounds tin. j 
These metals wiU combine to form a beautiful | 
alloy of great lustre, and of a fight yellow ' 
color, fitted to be made into specula for tele- 
scopes. Mr. Mudge used only copper and 
grain tin, in the proportion of 2 pounds of 
the former to I4i ounces of the latter. 

3445. Babbitt's Anti- Attrition Metal. 
Melt 4 pounds copper, add by degrees 12 
pounds best quality Banca tin, 8 pounds 
regulus of antimony, and 12 pounds more tin 
while the composition is in a melted state. 
After the copper is melted and 4 or 5 pounds 



of tin have been added, the heat should be 
reduced to a dull red, to prevent oxidation ; 
then add the remainder of the metal as above. 
In melting the composition, it is better to 
keep a small quantity of powdered charcoal 
on the surface of the metal. The above com- 
position is called hardening. For fining the 
boxes, take 1 pound of this hardening and 
melt it with 2 pounds of Banca tin, which 
produces the lining metal for use. Thus, the 
proportions for lining metal are 4 pounds 
copper, 8 pounds regulus of antimony, and 96 
pounds Banca tin. 

3446. Gongs and Cymbals. The secret 
method employed by the Chinese for working 
the hard brittle bronze used for making gongs 
and cymbals, seems to be solved by the fact 
that the bronze of which these instruments are 
made, consisting of copper alloyed with about 
20 per cent, at tin, and almost as brittle as 
glass at ordinary temperatures, becomes as 
malleable as soft iron, if worked at a dull red 
heat. This discovery was recently made in 
Paris, by M.M. Jufien and Charnpion, the 
result of experiments at the Paris Mint. 

3447. Phosphorus Bronzes. A great 
advance has lately been made in the con- 
struction of bronzes, by the addition of a small 
percentage of phosphorus, although the pre- 
cise function of this substance has not been 
hitherto weU understood. According to Levi 
and Kunzel, however, one cause of the in- 
feriority in bronze consists in the constant 
presence of traces of tin in the state of an 
oxide, which acts mechanically by separating 
the molecules of the alloy, thus interposing 
a substance which in itself has no tenacity. 
The addition of phosphorus reduces ttSs 
oxide, and renders the alloy much more per 
feet, improving its color, its tenacity, and all 
its physical properties. The grain of its 
fracture resembles more that of steel, its 
elasticity is much augmented, and its resist- 
ance to pressure "sometimes more than 
doubled. Its dm*ability is gi-eater, and, when 
melted, it is of greater fluidity, and fills the 
mould in its finest details. 

3448. Fontainemoreau's Bronzes. 
There is a kind of bronze known as Fontaine- 
moreau's bronze, in which zinc predominates. 
It is ^ said to answer well for chill moulding, 
that is, for pouring in metal moulds, by which 
method it is rendered very homogeneous. 
The crystalline nature of the zinc is entirely 
changed by the addition of a small proportion 
of copper, iron, &c. The alloy is hard, close- 
grained, and resembles steel. Moreover, it is 
easier to file than either zinc or copper. The 
following table presents the proportions in 
use : 



Zinc. 


Copper. 


Cast Iron. 


Lead. 


90 


8 


1 


1 


91 


8 





1 


92 


8 








92 


7 


1 





97 


2i 


i 





97 


3 








99^ 





i 





99 


1 









3449. Use of Petroleum in Turning 
Metals. A bronze composed of seven parts 
of copper^ 4 of zinc, and 1 of tin, has been 



316 



FLUXES. 



found to be so hard as to be difficult to work, 
and yet of considerable value in certain ways 
when worked. Yarious methods have been 
attempted, aiming at effecting a ready work- 
ing of this alloy, and M. Bechstein has recent- 
ly, by soaking the alloy in petroleum, attained 
this desirable end. 

3450. To Clean Bronze. It was ob- 
served in Berlin that those parts of a bronze 
statue which were much handled by the 
public retained a good surface, and this led to 
the conclusion that fat had something to do 
with it. An experiment was therefore tried 
for some years with four bronzes. One, says 
our authority — Chambers' Journal — was coat- 
ed every day with oil, and wiped with a cloth ; 
another was washed every day with water ; 
the third was similarly washed, but was 
oiled twice a year; and the fourth, was left 
untouched. The first looked beautifully; 
the tJiird, which had been oiled twice a year, 
was passable ; the second looked dead ; and 
the fourth was dull and black. 

3451. Engestroom Tutania. Melt 
together 4 parts copper, 8 parts regulus of 
antimony, and 1 part bismuth. TThen added 
to 100 parts of tin, this compound will be 
ready for use. 

3452. Tutenag. Melt together 8 parts 
of copper, 5 parts of zinc, and 3 parts of 
nickel. 

3453. Kustitien's Metal for Tinning. 
To 1 pound of malleable iron, at a white 
heat, add 5 ounces regulus of antimony, and 
24 pounds of the purest Molucca tin. This 
alloy pohshes without the blue tint, and is 
free from lead or arsenic. 

3454. Expansion Metal. Melt together 
9 parts of lead, 2 parts of antimony, and 1 
part bismuth. 

3455. Fluid Alloy of Sodium and 
Potassium. If 4 parts sodium are mixed 
with 2^ potassium, the alloy will have exactly 
the appearance and consistency of mercury, 
remaining liquid at the ordinary temperature 
of the air. 

3456. Fusible Alloys. Bismuth, 8 
parts; lead, 5 parts; tin, 3 parts; melt to- 
gether. Melts below 212° Fahr. Or: Bis- 
muth, 2 parts; lead, 5 parts; tin, 3 parts. 
Melts in boiling water. Or: Lead, 3 parts; 
tin, 2 parts ; bismuth, 5 parts ; mix. Melts 
at 197° Fahr. The 'above are used to make 
toy-spoons, to surprise children by their 
melting in hot tea or coffee; and to form 
pencils for writing on asses' skin, or paper 
prepared by rubbing burnt hartshorn into it. 
The last may be employed as an anatomical 
injection, by adding (after removing it from 
the fire), 1 part quicksilver (warm). Liquid 
at 172°; solid at 140° Fahr. 

3457. Wood's Patent Fusible Metal 
melts between 150° and 160° Fahr. It con- 
sists of 3 parts cadmium, 4 tin, 8 lead, and 15 
bismuth. It has a brilliant metallic lustre, 
and does not tarnish readily. 

3458. The Most Fusible AUoy. 
There is an alloy of bismiith, tin, and lead, 
which, from its very low melting point, is called 
fusible metal. (See No. 3457). Dr. Yon Hauer 
has found, however, that the addition of 
cadmium to the alloys of the above mentioned 
metals reduces their melting point still lower. 
An alloy of 4 volumes cadmium, with 5 



volumes each tin, lead, and bismuth, is quite 
liquid at 150° Fahr. In parts by weight, the 
above would be 224 parts cadmium, 5 17 5 
lead, 295 tin, and 1050 bismuth. {See No. 
52). An alloy of 3 volumes of cadmium 
with 4 each of tin, lead, and bismuth, fuses at 
153^° Fahr, and an alloy of 1 equivalent of 
cadmium with two equivalents each of these 
three other metals, at 155^°, which is also/ 
the fusing point of an alloy of 1 part each of a^ 
the four metals. Dr. von Hauer made these 
alloys by fusing their ingredients in a covered 
porcelain crucible at the lowest practicable 
temperature. They aU become pasty at lower 
temperatures than those given above; the 
temperatures quoted are those at which the 
alloys are perfectly fluid. It should be added 
that, unfortunately, all these alloys very 
rapidly oxidize when placed in water. 

3459. Table of AUoys of Tin and 
Lead and their Melting Heats. 



Tin. 


Lead. 


Bismuth. 


Fahr. 


1 


25 





558° 


1 


10 





541 


1 


5 





511 


1 


3 





482 


1 


2 





441 


'1 







370 


H 







334 


2 







340 


3 


1 





356 


4 


1 





365 


5 


1 





378 


6 







381 


4 




1 


320 


3 


3 


1 


310 


2 


2 


1 


292 


1 


1 


1 


254 


1 


2 


2 


236 


5 


3 


3 


202 


3 


5 


8 


197 



Fluxes. This tei-m is applied to sub- 
stances of easy fusibOity, which are 
added to others more refractory, to promote 
their fusion. Yarious fluxes are given in 
other portions of this work (see Soldering and 
Enamels), but the principal fluxes are the fol- 
lowing : 

3461. Black Flux. Cream of tartar, 2 
parts; nitre, 1 part; powder, mix, and defla- 
grate by small quantities at a time, in a red 
hot crucible. This is merely carbonate of 
potash, mixed with charcoal in a flnely-divi- 
ded state. It is used for smelting metallic 
ores, and exercises a reducing action, as well 
as promoting the fusion. (See No. 11.) 

3462. White, or Cornish Befiningr 
Flux. Cream of tartar and nitre, equal parts ;{ 
deflagrate as last. 

3463. Morveau's Reducing Flux. 
Powdered glass (free from lead), 8 parts ; 
calcined borax and charcoal, each 1 part ; all 
in fine powder, and triturated together thor- 
oughly. Used as hJacJc flux. (See No. 3461.) 

3464. Flux for Reducing Lead Ore. 
Take 6 parts red argol, 4 parts nitre, 2 parts 
borax, and 1 part fluorspar; pulverize well 
and mix thoroughlj'. 



SOLDEJllXG AND WELDING, 



317 



3465. Comisb. Reducing Fliix. Cmde 
tartai, 10 parts; nitre, 4 parts; borax, 3 parts. 
^ix as the last. 

3466. Crude Flux. ^imiQ a^ hlack flux, 
[see No. 3461), omitting the deflagration. 
TTsed for reducing. {See No. 2Q.) 

3467. Liebig's Flux. Carbonate of 
soda (dry, see No. 2065), and cyanide of po- 
tassium, 1 part each, tfsed for reducing ar- 
senious acid. 

3468. Fresenius' Flux. Carbonate of 
potassa (dry), (see No. 2065), 3 parts; cya- 
nide of potassium, 1 part. For the arsenical 
compounds. 

3469. Christison's Flux for Arsenic. 
Carbonate of soda, (crystallized). 8 parts; 
charcoal (in fine powder), 1 part ; mixture is 
gradually to be heated to redness. 

3470. Flux for Copper. Sal-enixum 
(the refuse from aquafortis), to be obtained 
at most of the chemical -works at a trifling 
cost, is strongly recommended by Larkin as a 
general flux for copper foundings, particular- 
ly where large masses of copper have to be 
melted prior to adding the tin and zinc. 
iSTothing is equal to it. This, with char- 
coal, surpasses everything else. 

3471. Various Fluxes. Borax, tartar, 
nitre, sal-ammoniac, common salt, limestone, 
glass, fluorspar, resin, and several other sub- 
stances are used as fluxes in fusing metals, 
and soldering. On the large scale crude tar- 
tar is employed. (See No. 3472.) 



Ooldering and Welding. 

k^ Soldering is the art of uniting the sur- 
faces of metals by partial fusion, and the in- 
sertion of an alloy between the edges, which 
is called solder, it being more fusible than the 
metals which it unites. Solders are distin- 
guished as hard and soft, according to their 
difficulty of fusion. Hard solders usually 
melt only at a red heat, but soft solders fuse 
at lower temperatures. In order to join me- 
tals, it is obvious that a solder must be used 
that melts at a lower temperature than the 
metals to be joined ; but it may also be ne- 
cessary that it approach as nearly as possible 
to them in point of hardness ; and occasional- 
ly, as is especial'ly the case with jewelry, 
similarity of color is an object. The heat 
requisite for soldering small articles, such as 
jewelry, etc., is usually obtained by employ- 
ing a common blowpipe ; as by its use a sud- 
den heat may be concentrated on a small 
point. "Wliere a larger surface has to be 
heated, the flame of a spirit lamp is used. 
For brazing, or uniting larger objects with 
hard solder, a furnace, or, if necessary, a forge, 
may be employed. In working tin plates, 
the solder is applied and fused by a heated 
copper tool called a soldering-iron. The sur- 
faces of parts to be joined by soldering must 
be perfectly clean; and in order to ensure 
this, as well as to counteract the oxidization 
which most metals undergo when heated, a 
flux is used (see No. 3479), which neutralizes 
or removes these otherwise serious impedi- 
ments, securing a firm joint. 

3473. To Make Soldering Fluid for 
Soft Solder. Into muriatic acid put small 
pieces of zinc until all bubbling ceases ; some 



add 1 ounce sal-ammoniac to each pound of 
the liquid. 

3474. Neutral Soldering Fluid. Dis 
solve zinc in muriatic acid as above, then 
warm the solution and add sufficient oxide or 
carbonate of tin in powder to neutralize it. 
This prevents the fluid from corroding the 
seams. 

3475. Soldering" Liquid. Soldering 
liquid is made by taking hydrochloric acid, 
i pint; granulated tin, 1^ ounce; dissolve 
and add some common solder and hydrochlo- 
rate of ammonia. 

3476. Flux for Soldering. For com- 
mon purposes powdered resin is generally 
used. Stearic acid, obtained from the candle 
factories, makes a good flux for fine tin work. 

3477. Flux for Soldering Iron or 
Steel. Dissolve chloride of zinc in alcohol. 

3478. Flux for Soldering Steel. This 
answers perfectly when the fracture is an old 
one. To a saturated solution of zinc in 1 
pint muriatic acid, add 4 ounces pulverized 
sal-ammoniac ; boil it for 10 minutes ; put it, 
when cold, in a well corked bottle. The boil- 
ing must be done in a copper vessel. 

3479. Soft Soldering. The solder is an 
alloy of 2 parts tin to 1 part lead, fasible at 
340*^ Fahr. ; or, for cheapness, the proportion 
is sometimes 3 to 2, fusible at 334°. This 
substance is applied with a hot copper tool 
called a soldering-iron, or by blowpipe flame. 
Heat, however, causes the edges of the metal 
to oxidize; therefore the edges are covered 
with a substance having a strong attraction 
for oxygen, and disposing the metal to unite 
to the solder at a low temperature. Such 
substances are called fluxes, and are chiefly 
borax, resin, sal-ammoniac, muriate of zinc, 
Yenice turpentine, tallow, or oil. 

3480. Flux for Soldering Brass. For 
brass or other similar alloy, resin, sal-ammo- 
niac, and muriate of zinc are the proper fluxes. 
Should the work be heavy and thick, the sol- 
dering requires to be done over a charcoal 
fire in order to keep the tool heated within 
proper limits. It is as well to tin the surfaces 
before soldering; in some cases simply dip- 
ping into a pot of melted solder effects the 
purpose, but the dip must be done instantly 
to be effective. 

3481. Flux for Soldering Zinc. Zinc 
is difficult to solder, from the fact that it is 
apt to withdraw the tin from the soldering 
bolt, zinc and copper having a stronger affin- 
ity for each other than tin and copper. The 
proper flux is muriate of zinc, made by dis- 
solving small bits of zinc or zinc drops in 
muriatic acid mixed with an equal bulk of 
water. 

3482. Flux for Soldering Tin and 
Lead. Tin and lead require resin or oil as 
the flux. 

3483. Flux for Soldering Pewter. 
Pewter requires a flux of oil, and may, in ad- 
dition to the soldering-iron process, be solder^ 
ed by a current of heated air. 

3484. Flux for Soldering Britannia 
Metal. Britannia metal should have muriate 
of zinc for a flux, and be soldered by the 
blou'pipe. 

3485. To Solder Iron. Iron requires the 
surfaces to be tinned over before being sol« 
dered; the method is given in No. 3515. 



318 



SOLDEBIXa AND WELDIXG 



3486. To Soft Solder Small Articles. 

Join together the parts to be soldered, first 
moistening them with soldering fluid {see No. 
3473), lay a small piece of solder over the 
joint and apply heat, either over a spirit 
flame, or by means of the blowpipe, as the 
case may be. The neat should be withdrawn 
at the moment of fusion, otherwise the solder 
may become brittle. 

3487. To Soft Solder Smooth Sur- 
faces. "Where two smooth surfaces are to be 
joined, moisten the surfaces with soldering 
fluid {see No. 3473), and lay a piece of tin foil 
between them, press them together closely, 
and apply heat sufficient to fuse the tin foil. 

3488. Hard Soldering' Ox Brazing. 
The alloy used in hard soldering is generally 
made of equal parts of copper and zinc ; much 
of the zinc, however, is lost in the process, so 
that the real proportion is not equal parts. 
The alloy is heated over a charcoal fire, and 
broken to granulations in an iron mortar. A 
different proportion is used for soldering cop- 
per and iron, viz. : 3 zinc to 1 copper. The 
commercial name is '^spelter solder." 

3489. Flux for Spelter Solder. The 
flux employed for spelter solder is borax, 
which can either be used separately, or mixed, 
by rubbing to a cream, or mixed with the 
solder in a very little water. 

3490. To Hard Solder. When the 
work is cleaned, bound, fluxed, and speltered, 
the whole is subjected to a clear charcoal or 
coke fire ; or, what is now becoming far more 
general, convenient, cleanly, and manageable, 
a bellows blowpipe. The air passes from a 
bellows propelled by the foot through A 
{See Engraving.) The gas passes through B, 




and the flame can be directed to any poiat, 
on account of its being hinged at C C. The 
flame can be extended by using several stands, 
or by constructing several burners on one 
stand. The heat is much greater than from 
charcoal, can be regulated at pleasure, and 
kept at the same temperature for any given 
time. In the process of hard soldering, the 
water should be driven off" by gentle heat; 
the fusion of the flux soon follows ; a glassy 
substance appears after the froth, which, in 
its turn, is replaced by the alloy in red liquid 



form; the blue flame from the ignited zinft 
informs the operator that the solder now fuses, 
so that, as soon as the work is flushed with 
solder, it must be withdrawn, allowed to set, 
and cooled in water. 

3491. To Make Sclder. The mixture 
of the metals is performed by melting them 
together in the same manner as for alloys 
{see No. 3347), with the aid of a flux. The 
metals employed should be pure, especially 
silver, as silver coin makes the solder too 
hard. 

3492. Solder for Gold. Take 12 parts 
pure gold, 2 parts pure silver, and 2 parts 
copper. 

3493. Solder for Silver. Take 5 parts 
pure silver — not silver coin— ^ parts brass, 
and 2 parts zinc. Or, 2 parts silver, 1 part 
common pins. This is an easy flowing solder. 
Use a gas jet to solder with. 

3494. Hard Solder. Take 2 parts cop- 
per and 1 part zinc. Or, equal parts of copper 
and zinc. {See No. 3488.) 

3495. Solder for Silver. Take 19 
parts fine silver, 1 part copper, and 10 parts 
brass. 

3496. Silver Solder. Melt together 34 
parts, by weight, silver coin, and 5 parts cop- 
per; after cooling a little, drop into the mix- 
ture 4 parts zinc, then heat again. 

3497. Fine Silver Solder. Melt in a 
clean crucible, 19 parts pure silver, 10 parts 
brass, and 1 part copper ; add a small piece of 
borax as a flux. 

3498. Solder for Copper. Same as 
hard soldering. {See No. 3488.) 

3499. Solder for Tin. Take 4 parts 
pewter, 1 part tin, and 1 part bismuth. Use 
powdered resin when soldering. 

3500. Fine Soft Solder. Take 2 parts 
tin and 1 part lead. Used for soldering tin 
plates, and tinning copper. Add resin as a 
flux when melting. 

3501. Very Soft Solder. Equal parts 
of tin, lead, and bismuth. 

3502. Solder for Pewter. Take 2 
parts tin, 1 part each of lead and bismuth. 

3503. Glaziers' Solder. Take 3 parts 
lead and 1 part tin. This melts at 500° Fahr. 

3504. Solder Fusible in Boiling Wa- 
ter. Take 1 part tin, 1 part lead, and 2 parts 
bismuth. 

3505. Plumbers' Solder. Take 1 part 
bismuth, 5 parts lead, and 3 parts tin. 

3506. Solder for Lead. Take 2 parts 
lead and 1 part tin. This is good, if, when a 
small quantity is poured on a table, little 
bright spots rise as it cools. TVTien soldering 
with this, use powdered resin. 

3507. Brass Solder. Take 12 parts 
brass, 6 parts zinc, and 1 part tin. 

3508. Strong Brass Solder. Take 3 
parts brass and 1 part zinc. 

3509. To Solder Fine Brass Work. 
"Wet the parts with a strong solution of sal- 
ammoniac, apply tin foil between them, and, 
heat no more than is necessary to fuse the 
tin. 

3510. To Solder Iron. Apply good 
tough brass {see No. 3358) with borax mixed 
with water to the consistence of cream. {See 
No. 3488.) 

3511. Solder for Joining- Steel. This is 
better than the usual brass solder, for uniting 



SOLDEBING AND WELDING 



319 



cast-steel, &c., as it fiises at a lower tempera- 
ture; and, being whiter in appearance, renders 
the seams less observable. Take 19 parts, by- 
weight, fine silver ; 1 part copper, and 2 parts 
brass ; melt them under a coat of charcoal 
dust. 

3512. Brass Solder for Brazing Iron 
or Steel. Thin plates of brass are to be 
melted between the pieces that are to be join- 
ed. If the work be very fine — as when two 
leaves of a broken saw are to be brazed 
together — cover it with pulverized borax, dis- 
solved in water, that it may incorporate with 
some brass powder which is added to it ; the 
piece must be then exposed to the fire with- 
out touching the coals, and heated till the 
brass is seen to run. 

3513. To Solder Ferrules for Tool 
Handles, &c. Take the ferrule, lap round 
the jointing a small piece of brass wire, then 
just wet the ferrule, scatter ground borax on 
the joining, put it on the end of a wire, and 
hold it in the fire till the brass fuses. It will 
fill up the joining, and form a perfect solder. 
It may afterwards be turned in the lathe. 

3514. To Tin Iron for Soldering, &c. 
Drop zinc shavings into muriatic (hydro- 
chloric) acid, until it will dissolve no more ; 
then add J- its bulk of soft water. Iron, how- 
ever rusty, will be cleansed by this solution, 
and receive from it a sufficient coating of 
zinc for solder to adhere to. {See No. 3642.) 

3515. To Solder Grey Cast-Iron. 
First dip the castings in alcohol, after which, 
sprinkle muriate of ammonia (sal-ammoniac) 
over the surface to be soldered. Then hold 
the casting over a charcoal fire till the sal- 
ammoniac begins to smoke, then dip it into 
melted tin (not solder). This prepares the 
metal for soldering, which can then be done 
in the ordinary way. 

3516. Solder for Iron. Fuse together 
67 parts copper and 33 parts zinc. Or : 60 
parts copper and 40 parts zinc. 

3517. Hard Solder for Copper or 
Brass. Take 13 parts copper and 1 part zinc. 
Or : 7 copper, 3 zinc and 2 tin. 

3518. Solder for Brass in General. 
Take 4 parts of scraps of the metal to be sol- 
dered, and 1 part zinc. 

3519. To Make Solder-Drops. Melt 
the solder, and pour ij: in a steady stream of 
about i inch in diameter, from a height of 2 
or 3 inches, into cold water ; taking care that 
the solder, at the time of pouring, is no hotter 
than is just necessary for fluidity. 

3520. Aluminum Solder. Mouray 
employs five different solders, being different 
proportions of zinc, copper, and aluminum. 
The copper is melted first, the aluminum is 
then added in 3 or 4 portions ; when the whole 
is melted, it is stirred with an iron rod. The 
crucible is then withdrawn from the fire, the 
zinc gradually stirred into the mass, and the 
whole poured into ingot shaped moulds, pre- 
viously wiped out with benzine. The parts 
given in the following proportions are by 
weight. 

1. — 80 parts zinc, 8 parts copper, 12 parts aluminum. 
2.-85 " " 6 " "9 " 

3.-88 •• " 5 " '« 7 " 

4.-90 " " 4 " "6 " 

5.-94 " " 2 " "4 " 

3521. To Solder Alumirmm. The 

selection of either of the above solders de- 



pends upon the nature of the object. In 
order to quicken its fusion on the metal, a 
mixture of 3 parts balsam of copaiba and 1 
part Yenice turpentine is made use of; other- 
wise the operation is performed in exactly the 
same manner as in the brazing of other met- 
als. The aluminum solder is spread without 
delay on the previously heated surfaces to be 
fastened together. In heating, the blue gas 
flame or the turpentine blast lamp is em- 
ployed. The more and oftener the solder is 
spread over the surface, the better it is. 

8522. Aluminum Solder. If soft sol- 
der is fused with one-half, one-fourth, or one- 
eighth of its weight of zinc amalgam (to be 
made by dissolving zinc in mercury, see No. 
3539), a more or less hard and easily-fusiblo 
solder is obtained, which may be used to 
solder aluminum to itself or to other metals. 

3523. "Welding Powder for Iron and 
Steel. For welding iron and steel a compo- 
sition has lately been patented in Belgium, 
consisting of iron filings, 40 parts ; borax, 20 
parts ; balsam of copaiba, or some other resin- 
ous oil, 2 ; and sal-ammoniac, 3 parts. They 
are mixed, heated, and pulverized. The pro- 
cess of welding is much the same as usual. 
The surfaces to be welded are powdered with 
the composition, and then brought to a 
cherry-red heat, at which the powder melts, 
when the portions to be united are taken from 
the fire and joined. If the pieces to be welded 
are too large to be both introduced at the same 
time into the forge, one can be first heated 
with the welding powder to a cherry-red 
heat, and the others afterwards to a white 
heat, after which the welding maybe effected. 

3524. "Welding Composition for Cast 
Steel. Take borax, 10 parts; sal-ammoniac, 
1 part ; grind or pound them roughly together, 
then fuse them in a metal pot over a clear fire, 
taking care to continue the heat until all 
spume has disappeared from the surface. 
When the liquid appears clear, the composi- 
tion is ready to be poured out to cool and con- 
crete; afterwards, being ground to a fine 
powder, it is ready for use. To use this com- 
position, the steel to be welded is first 
raised to a bright yellow heat, it is then dip- 
ped among the welding powder, and again 
placed in the fire, until it attains the same 
degree of heat as before; it is then ready to be 
placed under the hammer. 

3525. Welding Powder. For iron or 
steel, or both together, calcine and pulverize 
together 100 parts iron or steel filings, 10 sal- 
ammoniac, 6 borax, 5 balsam copaiba. One 
of the pieces is to be heated red, carefully 
cleaned of scale, the composition is to b« 
spread upon it, and the other piece applied 
at a white heat and welded with the hammer. 

3526. Welding Composition. Fuse 
borax with -^ its weight sal-ammoniac, cool, 
pulverize, and mix with an equal weight ol 
quicklime, when it is to be sprinkled on the 
red hot iron and the latter replaced in the 
fire. 

3527. Welding Composition. Take 15 
parts borax, 2 of sal-ammoniac, and 2 of prus- 
siate of potash. Being dissolved in water, the 
water should be gradually evaporated at a low 
temperature. 

3528. Welding Composition. Mix 10 
parts borax with 1 part sal-ammoniac; fuse 



820 



AMALGAMS. 



the mixture, and ponr it on an iron plate. 
When cold, pulverize it, and mix it with an 
equal weight of quicklime, sprinkle it on iron 
heated to redness, and replace it in the fire. 
It may be welded below the usual heat. 

3529. Compound for Welding Steel. 
The following composition is said to be su- 
perior to borax for welding steel. Mix 
coarsely powdered borax with a thin paste of 
Prussian blue; then let it dry. The combi- 
nation seems to be a rational one. 

3530. Antimonoid. A welding powder, 
named antimonoid, has been in use for some 
time past iu Grermany, and found to be of 
great efficiency. The formula for its prepara- 
tion has, until lately, been kept a secret; it 
consists of 4 parts iron turnings, 3 parts 
borax, 2 parts borate of iron, and I'of water. 
3531. Fluxes for Soldering and Weld- 
ing. 

For Iron or steel Borax or sal-ammoniac. 

•' Tinned iron Eesin or chloride of zinc. 

" Copper and brass Sal-ammoniac or chloride 

" Zinc Chloride of zinc, [of zinc. 

•' Lead Tallow or resia. 

" Lead and tin pipes Eesin and sweet oU. 



A malgamS. substances formed 
-/rT\^ by mixing quicksilver with another 
metal. Alloys containing quicksilver. Mer- 
cury unites with most of the metals by mere 
contact, forming amalgams. These are em- 
ployed for various purposes in the arts, as 
silvering, gilding, coating mirrors, &c. 

3533. Amalgam of Gold for Gilding 
Brass, Copper, &c. Place one part grain 
or leaf gold in a small iron saucepan or ladle, 
perfectly clean, then add 8 parts mercury, and 
apply argentic heat, when the gold will dis- 
solve; agitate the mixture for one minute 
with a smooth iron stirrer, and pour it out on 
a clean plate or stone slab. "When cold it is 
ready for use. 

3534. To Gild with Gold Amalgam. 
For gilding brass, copper, &g. The metal to 
be gilded is first rubbed over with a solution 
of nitrate of mercury, and then covered with 
a very thin film of the amalgam. On heat 
being applied, the mercury volatilizes, leaving 
the gold behind. A much less proportion of 
gold is often employed than the above, where 
a very thin and cheap gilding is required, as, 
by increasing the quantity of the mercury, the 
precious metal may be extended over a much 
larger surface. (S'ee No. 3394.) 

3535. Amalgam of Silver for Silver- 
ing Metals. Prepare in the same way as 
amalgam of gold, but substitute silver instead 
of gold. (>See JVb. 3533.) 

3536. To Obtain Pure Silver in 
Powder. The best process to obtain pm-e 
silver in powder, is by adding copper to a 
dilute solution of silver in nitric acid, until all 
action ceases. The silver is precipitated ia a 
fine powder. Before using the silver powder 
to prepare amalgam, it must be thoroughly 
washed until the water ceases to have any 
acid taste, or litmus paper is unchanged by 
it. (See Nos. 3212, ^c.) The silver in this 
form, besides being necessarily purer, amal- 
gamates more readily with the quicksilver. 

3537. To Make a Solution of Silver. 
Dissolve a silver coin in slightly diluted nitric 



acid. Mexican coin is preferable, because it 
is purer. (See Xo. 3213.) 

3538. Amalgam for Silvering the 
Insides of Convex Mirrors, Glass 
Globes, &c. Lead and tin, of each 2 ounces ; 
bismuth, 2 ounces ; mercmy, 4 ounces. A dd 
the mercury to the rest in a. melted state and 
remove from the fire ; mix well with an iron 
rod. This amalgam melts at a low heat, and 
is employed for silvering the insides of hollow 
glass vessels, globes, convex mirrors, &c. 
The glass, being well cleaned, is carefully 
warmed, and the amalgam, rendered fluid by 
heat, is then poured in, and the vessel turned 
round and round, so that the metal may be 
brought in contact with every part of the 
glass which it is desired to cover. At a cer- 
tain temperature this amalgam readily ad- 
heres to glass, (See Xos. 3545, and 3614.) 

3539. To Make Zinc Amalgam for 
Electrical Machines. Melt 2 ounces zinc 
in a ladle, remove from the fire, and stir into 
it 5 ounces mercury previously heated. Stir 
tni cold, and then powder it. Keep it in a 
tightly corked bottle. 

3540. Improved Electric Amalgam. 
It is well known that a deposit of moisture 
greatly interferes with the action of electrical 
machines, experiments often wholly failing 
from this cause, especially in the winter 
season. Mr. F. Dietlen, of Klagenfurt, has 
devised a method by which he obviates this 
difficulty, consisting simply in a modification 
of the amalgamation of the rubber cushion. 
For this purpose he pours petroleum over 
zinc filings, and adds an equal quantity of 
mercury (though an excess of mercury facili- 
tates the process). The mixture is then 
brought, by working together in a mortar, to 
the condition of a homogeneous paste, and 
pressed between a double cloth. A soft mass 
is thus obtained, which, however, soon hard- 
ens; but which, being finely pulverized and 
mixed with a proper quantity of grease, is 
spread upon the rubber cushion. This makes 
tbe surface quite glossy, and, when the glass 
disk has previously been wiped with a piece 
of cotton slightly impregnated with petroleum 
or benzine, will develop electricity abund- 
antly, even in damp localities where the 
usual arrangement fails. 

3541. Boettger's Amalgam for 
Electrical Machines. Boettger recom- 
mends a mixture of 2 parts (by weight) of 
pure zinc, while melted, to be mixed with 1 
part of mercuiy. This should be kept in 
pieces in a well-stoppered flask, and is said to 
be superior to the amalgam made of 2 parts 
mercury, 1 zinc, and 1 tin. 

3542. Tin Amalgam. Amalgam of 
tin forms readily by introducing the solid 
metal into the mercury. In this way hexag- 
onal crystalline formations have been ob- 
served ; there is always a decided contraction 
in bulk. The hard amalgam of tin obtained 
by passing the liquid amalgam through fine 
leather, then drying, and afterwards rubbing 
under water, forms one of the plastic cements 
for filling teeth. (See No. 3553). It hardens 
within a few days, and is, besides, used for 
hermetically closing glass tubes. Mixed with 
a little silver amalgam it is a less plastic mass 
and requires a little more mercury, but it 
hardens much sooner. 



AMALGAMS. 



321 



3543. Copper Amalgam. Copper 
amalgam is best obtained by first precipitat- 
ing metallic copper in a fine state of division 
from a solution of 3 ounces of blue vitriol in a 
quart of water mixed with an ounce of oil of 
vitriol, by means of clean wrought iron ; 
then, after washing it thoroughly with hot 
water, moistening the powder with a solution 
of proto-nitrate of mercury, and finally in- 
corporating it nnder water in a mortar with 
the required quantity of mercury. This 
amalgam, like the hard amalgam of tin, has 
the property of being softened and rendered 
plastic by mere trituratioji with a pestle. 
The proportions are generally 3 parts of cop- 
per to 7 of mercury. 

3544. Tin and Cadmium Amalgam- 
Similar properties to tin and copper amalgams 
belong to the compound amalgam of tin and 
cadmium, which are fused together in the 
proportion of 2 to 1 and mixed with warmed 
mercury in excess, which latter is removed 
by pressure when cold. (See JVo. 3549.) 

3545. Amalg-am for Silvering Glass 
Ornaments. The silver coating of glass 
beads and those large sized glass ornaments 
now in fashion, is produced by shaking within 
them an amalgam composed of 8 parts bis- 
muth, 5 of lead, 3 of tin, and from 7 to 9 
parts of mercury. (See No. 3538.) A mix 
ture of 2 parts each tin and bismuth and 1 of 
mercury, when powdered, is used for painting 
as imitation silver bronzes. 

3546. Amalgams of tlie Alkaline 
Metals. The amalgams of the alkaline 
metals are remarkable for their hardness, 
though the metals sodium and potassium 
themselves are quite soft at the ordinary 
temperature. One per cent, of sodium ui 
mercury produces an amalgam which is 
liquid, but still quite thick, and a per cent. 
of potassium renders the mercury still more 
so. A very hard compound is that consisting 
of 200 parts of mercury, 10 of potassium, and 
1 of sodium. By means of the alkaline amal- 
gams, most other mercurial alloys may be 
produced, by introducing them into the solu- 
tion of other metals. Zinc amalgam is like- 
wise used for the purpose. 

3547. Amalgam of Fusible Metal. 
Fusible metal forms an amalgam with -^ of 
its weight of mercury, which fuses far below 
the boiling point of water; cadmium increases 
the fusibility still more. A mixed amalgam 
for injecting anatomical preparations, which is 
hard at ordinary temperature, but becomes 
soft at 150°, and fuses at 176° Fahr., consists 
of 20 parts of bismuth, 12 of lead, 7 of tia, 
and 4 of mercury. (See Xos. 3456, cf-c.) 

3548. Amalgam for Varnishing 
Plaster Casts. Melt together 1 part each 
tin and bismuth, and stir in thoroughly 1 part 
mercury. "W^hen cool, pound the amalgam 
with white of egg, forming a metallic paint 
which may be laid on with a brush. I 

3549. Evans' Tooth Amalgam. Take | 
of pure grain tin, 2 parts ; cadmium and j 
bees' wax, of each 1 part ; melt them together j 
in a porcelain crucible at a heat not exceed- 
ing 600° Fahr., and cast the alloy so as to 
form a small ingot, which, when cold, must 
be reduced to filings. For use, a small 
quantity of these filings is formed into an 
amalgam with quicksilver^ the excess of the 



latter is squeezed out through a piece of 
chamois leather, and the amalgam at once 
appHed to the tooth. (See Xo. 3550.) This 
cement is recommended by Mr. Evans as very 
durable and unobjectionable. Its color is 
intermediate between that of silver and tin^ 
but it is said not to darken so readily as the 
simple amalgams of those metals. (See No. 
3544.) 

3550. Dentists' Amalgam, or Gold 
Stopping. The dentists, in preparing and 
using this, commonly proceed as follows : A 
nttle pure grain-gold is heated in a bright 
iron ladle (or capsule), and enough pure 
mercury added to render it of a doughy con- 
sistence at the temperature of hot water. 
WTien it has become cold, the excess of mer- 
cury, if any, is removed by pressure in a piece 
of chamois leather. In using it, a little of 
the amalgam, as hot as can be borne, is 
kneaded in the hand, and at once pressed 
into the cavity of the tooth, where it gradual- 
ly hardens. It is an excellent and durable 
stopping, and is, perhaps, preferable to all 
others, except the diamond tooth cement (see 
Index) for filling up cracks and cavities in the 
enamel, particularly of the front teeth, on 
account of its color and the ease of its appli- 
cation. 

3551. Dentists' Amalgam of Silver 
is used in the same way as the last ; but its 
color is less natural, and is apt to be blackened 
by the sulphur in the secretions of the mouth 
and the food. (See No. 3535.) 

3552. Dentists' Amalgams of TIbl 
and Zinc are also employed as tooth cement, 
but are inferior in color to, darken sooner,, 
and possess less durability, than that of" 
silver. 

3553. Alloy for Filling Teeth. An- 
alloy, which is sold in commerce in the shape 
of large, almost white filings, shows upon 
analysis the following composition : Tin, 611 ; 
silver, 388; copper, 1. The alloy is to be 
amalgamated before use by warming it in a 
spoon with a little mercury. The combina- 
tion takes place rapidly, and the amalgam,, 
while still warm, is pressed in a piece of soft 
leather, whereby the excess of mercury is re- 
moved. It is now far preferable to the cele- 
brated copper amalgam, as it retains its white 
color in the mouth, while the other turns 
dark. The hardness is a little less than that 
of the copper amalgam. (See No. 3542.) 

3554. To Recover the Silver Alloy 
from Dentists' Amalgam. The silver 
alloy may be easily obtained from scraps of 
dentists' amalgam in the following manner : 
Provide 2 crucibles of difi'erent sizes, so that 
the smaller one, inverted, will rest a little way 
within the larger. Make a hole, about i inch 
in diameter, in the bottom of the smaller, to. 
provide a vent for the mercurial vapors.. 
Place the pieces of amalgam in the larger 
crucible, invert the smaller one into it, lut& 
them, and fasten them firmly together with 
steel wire. Place the whole, as soon as the 
luting is dry, into a blast furnace, and in a 
short time the mercury will all have passed 
off in vapor, when the crucible may be set 
aside to cool, and the alloy will be found in a 
button at the bottom. As some portion of 
the tin in the alloy has been lost in the opera- 
tion, the button should be remelted ia a clean 






323 



aiLDING, SILVERING, ETC, 



open crucible, witli the addition of a little 
pure tin. This will now be ready to make 
again into amalgam as occasion requires. 

3555. Ruhinkorf's Amalgamating 
Fluid. Dissolve by heat 2 parts by weight 
of mercury in 1 part aqua regia; when dis- 
eolved, add 10 parts hydrochloric acid. A 
worn-out zinc will be amalgamated in a few 
seconds by immersion in this fluid. 



/T^ildin^, Silvering, &c. 

V.^In this department we give processes for 
gilding and silvering wood, metals, paper, and 
glass ; together with a number of receipts for 
coating various metals with other metallic 
deposits. 

3557. Implements for Gilding on 
"Wood. A sufficient quantity of leaf-gold, 
which is of two sorts — deep gold, and pale, or 
lemon gold. The former is the best ; the lat- 
ter very useful, and may occasionally be intro- 
duced for variety or effect. 

A gilder's cushion; an oblong piece of 
wood, covered with rough calf-skin, stuffed 
with flannel several times doubled, with a 
border of parchment, about 4 inches deep at 
one end, to prevent the air blowing the leaves 
about when placed on the cushion. 

A gilding knife, with a straight and very 
smooth edge, sharp enough to cut the gold, 
but not sufficiently so to cut the cushion. It 
must be perfectly clean, or the gold leaf will 
adhere to it. 

Several camel's-hair pencils of assorted sizes; 
and tips, made of a few long camel's hairs put 
between two cards, in the same manner as 
hairs are put into tin cases for brushes, thus 
making a flat brush with a very few hairs. 

A burnisher, which is a crooked piece of 
agate set in a long wooden handle. 

3558. Burnished Gilding. This style 
of gilding is adapted for fine work, such as 
picture frames and other fancy furniture. 
"We shall endeavor to give the necessary in- 
structions, in the following receipts, to those 
who wish to undertake this kind of work, 
and with care and practice they may perform 
the operation successfully. 

3559. To Make Size for Preparing 
Picture Frames and Other "Wood Work 
for Gilding. To i pound parchment shav- 
ings, or cuttings of white leather, add 3 quarts 
water, and boil it in a proper vessel till re- 
duced to nearly half the quantity; then take it 
off the fire, and strain it through a sieve. Be 
careful, in the boiling, to keep it well stirred, 
and do not let it burn. 

3560. To Prepare or Whiten Picture 
Frames or Wood Work. First, with the 
above size alone, and boiling-hot, go over the 
frames in every part; then mix a sufficient 
quantity of whiting with size, to the consist- 
ency of thick cream, with which go over every 
part of the frame 6 or 7 times, carefully 
letting each coat dry before proceeding with 
the next ; this will produce a white ground, 
nearly or quite -f g- inch in thickness. The size 
must not be too thick, and, when mixed with 
the whiting, should not be put on as hot as 
the first coat is by itself. It will be better 
to separate the dirty or coarse parts of the 
whiting by straining it through a sieve. 



3561. To Clean and Polish Frames. 

When the prepared frames are quite dry, 
clean and polish them. To do this, wet a 
small piece at a time, and, with a smooth, fine 
piece of cloth, dipped in water, rub the part 
till aU the inequalities are removed , and for 
those parts where the fingers will not enter, 
as the mouldings, &c., wind the wet cloth 
round a piece of wood, and by this means 
make the surface all equally smooth and 
even. Where there is carved work, &q,., it 
will sometimes be necessary to bring the 
mouldings to their original sharpness by 
means of chisels, gouges, (fee, as the prepara- 
tion will be apt to fill up all the finer parts of 
the work, which must be thus restored. It is 
sometimes the practice, after polishing, to go 
over the work once with fine yellow or Roman 
ochre. 

3562. To Make Gold Size for Frames. 
Grind fine sal-ammoniac well with a muUer 
and stone; scrape into it a little beef-suet, 
and giind all well together; after which mix 
in with a pallet knife a small proportion 
of parchment size with a double proportion of 
water. 

3563. Gold Size for Picture Frames. 
Grind a lump of tobacco pipe clay into a very 
stiff paste with thin size; add a small quantity 
of red ochre and fine black lead, ground very 
fine, and temper the whole with a small piece 
of tallow. 

3564. To Prepare Picture Frames for 
Gilding. Take a small cup or pipkin, into 
which put as much gold size as you jadge suf- 
ficient for the work in hand ; add parchment 
size till it will just flow from the brush; when 
quite hot, pass over your work with a very 
soft brush, taking care not to put the first 
coat too thick ; let it dry, and repeat it two 
or three times more, and, when quite dry, 
brush the whole with a stiff brush, to remove 
any roughness. The work is now ready for 
applying the gold. The parchment size 
should be of such a consistence, when cold, 
as the common jelly sold in the stores; for if 
too thick it will be apt to chip, and if too thin 
it will not have sufficient body. 

3565. To Apply Gold Leaf to Picture 
Frames and Other Wood Work. This is 
the most difficult part of the operation, and 
requires some practice ; but, with a little cau- 
tion and attention, it may be easily perform- 
ed. Turn the gold out of the book onto the 
cushion, a leaf at a time ; then, passing the 
gilding-knife under a leaf, bring it into a con- 
venient part of the cushion for cutting it into 
the size of the pieces required ; breathe gently 
on the centre of the leaf, and it will lay flat 
on the cushion ; then cut it to the proper size 
by sawing it gently with the knife till divided. 
Place the work in a position nearly horizon- 
tal, and, with a long-haired camel's-liair pencil 
dipped in water (or with a small quantity of 
brandy in the water), go over as much of it as 
the piece of gold is to cover ; then take up 
the gold from the cushion with the tip ; 
drawing it over the forehead or cheek will 
damp it sufficiently to adhere to the gold, 
which must then carefully be transferred to 
its place on the work, and, gently breathing 
on it, it will adhere ; but take care that the 
part to which it is applied is sufficiently wet; 
indeed, it must be floating, or the gold, wili 



aiLDIXG, SILVE Riya, ETC. 



be apt to crack. Proceed in this manner hy a ' with putty powder, till it is smooth as glass 



little at a time, and do not attempt to cover 
too much at once. Be careful, in proceeding 
with the work, if any flaws or cracks appear, 
to take a corresponding piece of gold, and ap- 
ply it immediately ; sometimes, also, it will 
be necessary, when the gold does not appear 
to adhere sufficiently, to draw a pencil quite 
filled \Wth water close to the edge of the gold, 
so that the water may run underneath it. 

3566. To Burnish Gold. T^hen the 
work is covered with gold, set it by to dry ; 
it will be ready to burnish in about eight or 
ten hours; but this will depend on the 
warmth of the room or state of the air. 
"When it is ready, those parts which are to be 
burnished must be dusted with a soft brush, 
and, wiping the burnisher with a piece of soft 
wash-leather (quite dry), begin to burnish 
about an inch or two in length at a time, tak- 
ing care not to lean too hard, but with a 
gentle and quick motion apply the tool till it 
is equally bright all over. 

3567. Matting, or Dead Gold. Those 
parts of the work which look dull from not 
being burnished, are now to be matted, that 
is, are to be made to look like dead gold ; for 
if left in its natural state it- will have a shi- 
ning appearance, which must be thus rectified. 
Grind some vermilion, or yellow ochre, very 
fine, and mix a very small portion either with 
the parchment size or with the white of an 



It must then be varnished over with tine lac 
varnish several times, applying a slight degree 
of heat after each coat. This may be done 
by holding a hot iron near it till the varnish 
has flowed smooth and even over the surface. 
When the last coat of varnish is quite hard it 
must be polished ; this is done by putting on 
a horse-hair glove, and rubbing the surface 
with this first, then with Tripoli, applied with 
a piece of wet woolen cloth ; and lastly, by 
wet putty powder, first applied with woolen 
cloth, then with the bare hand, till it is as 
bright as glass. It must then be varnished 
over with a thin coat (the thinner the better) 
of gold size, and when sufficiently dry the 
gold is to be applied, beginning at the part 
that is dryest. When gilt, it is to be allowed 
to remain for two or three days, and then 
brushed over lightly with a camel's-hair brush 
to remove superfluous gold. It is next to be 
varnished with spirit varnish, applying heat 
as before, then varnished with copal varnish 
two or three times, allowing it to become 
perfectly hard between each coat ; after the 
last coat of varnish it is finished by polishing, 
first with Tripoli, applied with a soft cloth and 
water, and then with the bare hand and a lit- 
tle oil, and wiped dry. 

3571. Oil Size for Gilding. Grind cal- 
cined red ochre with the best and oldest dry- 
ing oil, and mix with it a little oil of turpen- 



egg, and with a very soft brush lay it even tine when used. "When the work is to be 



and smooth on the parts intended to look 
dull ; if well done, it will add greatly to the 
beauty of the work. The work must be well 
cleared of superfluous gold, by means of a soft 
brush (a hat brush answers the purpose well), 
previous to burnishing or matting. 

3568. To Finish. Gilding. It is now 
only necessary to touch the parts in the hol- 
lows with a composition made by grinding 
vermilion, gamboge, and red lead, very fine, 
with oil of turpentine, and applying it care- 
fully with a small brush in the parts required, 
and inserting suitable bits of gold leaf with a 
camel's-hair brush. Sometimes the finishing 
is done by means of shell-gold, which is the 
best method ; it should be diluted with gum- 
arabic, and applied with a small brush. 

3569. To Make Shell-Gold. Take any 
quantity of leaf-gold, and grind it, with a 
small portion of honey, to a fine powder ; add 
a little gum-arabic and sugar candy, with a 
little water, and mix it well together ; put it 
in a shell to dry until wanted. 

_ 3570. Oil Gilding is that which is de- 
signed for out-door wurk, to stand the weather 
and wash, and is performed with oil and var- 
nish. Where the object is to give a high 
finish, paint the work with a color composed 
of the finest white lead and yellow ochre, in 
such proportions that the color shall be as 
near as possible to the color of the gold to be 
employed, mixed with oil (not boiled), and 
turpentine, till of the consistence of thin 
paint ; this to be laid on evenly, and allowed 
to dry thoroughly, then repeat it for 5 or even 



more coats, till it is perceived that the grain [blown out from small books, and spread on 



most troublesome 
small piece of ball 



gilded, first give it a coat of parchment size ; 
then apply the above size where requisite, 
either in patterns or letters, and let it remain, 
till, by touching it with the finger, it feels 
just sticky; then apply the gold leaf, and dab 
it on with a piece of cotton ; in about an hour 
wash ofi" the superfluous gold with sponge 
and water, and when dry, varnish it' with 
copal varnish. 

3572. Water Size. Water size (for 
burnished gilding) is parchment size ground 
with vellow ochre. 

3573. To Prevent the Adhesion of 
Gold Leaf. Painters and decorators will 
find the following plan a good one to simplify 

part of their work : A 
liquorice, dissolved in 
water, applied with a flat camel's-hair brush 
to the place intended to be left ungilt, will 
prevent the leaf adhering. The solution must 
be weak. Made thick and gummy, it is very 
useful to protect ornamental parts of work 
that is to be repainted. 

3574. To Gild the Edges of Books 
and Paper. The gold applied to the edges 
of books, (tc, is in the same state as for va- 
rious ornamental purposes, namely, an ex- 
tremely thin leaf. Before the case or cover 
of the book is quite finished, the volume is 
struck forcibly against the back, so as to make 
the fore-edge flat instead of concave. It is 
then placed in a press, with the exposed edge 
uppermost. The edge is scraped smooth 
with a piece of steel, and is coated with a 
mixture of red chalk and water. The gold is 



or roughness of the object to be gilt is entire 
ly hidden. When the last coat is dry it must 
be rubbed perfectly smooth, first with pumice 
stone, and finished with a piece of woolen 
cloth and finely pounded pumice ; and lastly, 



leather cushion, where it is cut to the proper 
size by a smooth-edged knife. A camel's-hair 
pencil is dipped into white of egg mixed with 
water, and with this the partially dry edge of 
the book is moistened ; the gold is then taken 



324= 



aiLDINa, SILVEBIXa, ETC 



tip on a tip bmsli, and applied to the moist- 
ened edge, to which it instantly adheres. 
"When all the three edges have been gilt in 
this way, and allowed to remain a very few 
minutes, take a burnisher formed of a very 
smooth piece of hard stone (usually blood- 
stone), and rub the gold very forcibly, 
which gives the gold a high degree of pohsh. 

3575. Gilding on Glass. " Mix powder- 
ed gold (see Xo. 2517) with thick gum-arabic 
and powdered borax. With this trace the de- 
sign on the glass, and then bake it in a hot 
oven. Thus the gum is burnt, and the borax 
is vitrified, at the same time the gold is fixed 
on the glass. 

Monograms and names may thus be gilded 
on glass or china. 

3576. To Gild with Dutch Metal. 
The imitation of gold or silver leaf known as 
Dutch metal is much used for common pur- 
poses. The article to be gilded is prepared 
with a coating of oil size, on which the metal 
is laid. The sizing is not allowed to dry 
quite so long as for gold or silver leaf; the 
metal being laid on as soon as the size has set 
sufficiently not to smear. Metal is not han- 
dled with a gilding cushion and tip ; but the 
books, with the metal in them, are cut into 
pieces of the requisite shape, with a pair of 
shears or scissors, and the metal leaf laid on 
the sizing direct from the portions of the 
book ; after which it is pressed close by means 
of a roller covered with flannel, and" finally 
brushed over the same as gold leaf, being 
careful to brush icith and not against the 
overlap. TThite Dutch metal, nicely managed, 
and flowed over with shellac spirit varnish 
(colored with gamboge), makes a very good, 
cheap, and durable substitute for gold leaf. 

3577. Grecian Gilding. Dissolve equal 
parts of sal-ammoniac and corrosive subli- 
mate in nitric acid, and a solution of gold is 
to be made with the above mixture as a sol- 
vent ; after slight concentration, the liquid is 
applied to the surface of silver, which im- 
mediately becomes black, but, on being heat- 
ed, exhibits a rich gilded surface. 

3578. Japanners' Gilding. The sur- 
face is covered with oil size thinned with 
spirits of turpentine, and gold in powder 
(see Xo. 2517) is gently dabbed on with a pufl" 
of wash-leather. This gives the appearance 
of frosted gold. A coating of varnish is next 
given, followed bv a gentle heat in the stove. 

3579. Leaf Gilding. This term is 
commonly apphed to the gilding of paper, 
vellum, &c., by applying leaf gold to the 
surface previously prepared with a coating of 
gum water, size, or white of egg. It may be 
burnished with an agate. 

3580. To Make OH Gold Size. This 
Is usually made from the sediment which 
collects at the bottom of the pot or dish in 
which painters wash their brushes, thoroughly 
ground and stained. 

3581. Oil Gilding. The surface is pre- 
pared or primed with a coat of white lead 
m drying oil ; then follow 2, 3, or 4 coats of 
calcined white lead ground in linseed oil and 
turpentine, with an interval of at least 24 
hours between each coat, which must be 
carefully smoothed ofi" with pumice-stone or 
shave grass. The gold size (see Xo. 3580) is 
next applied. When the gold size coat is 



sufficiently dry, the gold leaf is applied and 
pressed on with a wad or soft brush, ^^ftei 
a few days for hardening, a coat of spirit var- 
nish is applied, and the surface passed cautious- 
ly and evenly over a chafing dish of charcoal. 
For indoor work, it is finished ofi" with a coat 
of pale oil varnish. 

3582. To Gild PoHshed Metal. Pol- 
ished silver, copper, brass, &c., may be gild- 
ed by the direct application of gold leaf to 
the surface heated to a bluish tint, pressing 
it on gently and carefully with the burnisher. 
This process is repeated until the proper 
thickness and tone is attained. Then it is 
polished with the burnisher and colored at the 
stove. 

3583. Gold Tracing on Metal. 
"Writing or any device in gold may be made 
on polished steel or iron, by tracing on the 
surface with a camel-hair pencil, using an 
ethereal solution of gold. The ether evaporat- 
ing leaves a coating of gold, which may then 
be'polished. (See^Xo. 3585.) 

3584. Water Gilding. This process 
involves several distinct operations, and can 
only be performed successfully by those who 
have learned the art practicallv. 

3585. Ethereal Solution of Gold for 
Gilding on Steel. This process answers 
equally well for either gold or platina. Dis- 
solve any quantity of gold or platina in nitro- 
muriatic acid (aqua regia), until no further 
efi"ervescence is occasioned by the application 
of heat. (See Xo. 3588.) Evaporate the 
solution of gold or platina, thus foimed, to 
dryness, in a gentle heat (it will then be freed 
from all excess of acid, which is essential), 
and redissolve the dry mass in as little water 
as possible; next take a separating funnel 
or pipette (see Xo. 3831), fill it about one- 
fourth with the liquid, and the other three 
parts must be filled with the very best sul- 
phuric ether. If this be rightly managed, the 
two liquids will not mix. Then place the 
tube in a horizontal position, and gently turn 
it round with the finger and thumb. The 
ether will very soon be impregnated with the 
gold or platina, which may be known by its 
changing its color; replace it in a perpendicu- 
lar position, and let it rest for 24 hours, 
having first stopped up the upper orifice with 
a cork. The liquid will then be divided into 
two parts — the darkest coloring being under- 
neath. To separate them, take out the cork 
and let the dark liquid flow out ; when it has 
disappeared, stop the tube immediately with 
the cork, and what remains in the tube is fit 
for use, and may be called gilding liquid. 
Let it be put into a bottle, and tightly corked. 
The muriate of gold or platina, formed by 
digesting these metals in nitro-muriatic acid, 
must be entirely free from all excess of acid, 
because it will otherwise act too forcibly on 
the steel, and cause the coating of gold to 
peel offi Pure gold must be employed; the 
ether must not be shaken with the muriate of 
gold, as is advised by some, for it will then 
be sure to contain acid; but if the two 
liquids be brought continually into contact by 
the motion described, the affinity between 
ether and gold is so strong as to overcome the 
obstacle of gravity, and it will hold the gold 
in solution. The ethereal solution may also 
be concentrated by gentle evaporation. 



GILDING, SILVERING, ETC. 



325 



3586. To Gild Steel. Pour some of 
tbe ethereal solution of gold into a wine-glass, 
and dip into it the blade of a new penknife, 
lancet, or razor; withdraw the instrument, 
and allow the ether to evaporate ; the blade 
will then be found covered with a beautiful 
coat of gold. The blade may be moistened 
with a clean rag, or a small piece of very dry 
sponge dipped into the ether, and the same 
effect will be produced. {See No. 3585.) 

3587. Elkington's Patent, or Anglo- 
German Gilding. The articles, after being 
perfectly cleaned from scale or grease, and 
receiving a proper face, are to be suspended 
on wires, dipped into the gilding liquid {see 
No. 3588) boiling hot, and moved about there- 
in, when, in from a few seconds to a minute, 
depending on the newness and strength of 
the liquid, the requisite coating of gold will 
be deposited on them. By a little practice 
the time to withdraw the articles is readily 
known; the duration of the immersion re- 
quired to produce any given eflfect gradually 
increases as the liquid weakens by use. 
"WTien properly gilded, the articles are with- 
drawn from the solution of gold, washed in 
clean water, and dried ; after which they un- 
dergo the usual operation of coloring, &c. A 
dead appearance is produced by the applica- 
tion to the articles of a weak solution of 
nitrate of mercury previously to the immer- 
sion ; or the deadening may be given by ap- 1 
plying a solution of the nitrate to the gilded 
surface and then expelling the mercmy by 
heat. 

3588. Elkington's Patent Gilding 
Liquid. Fine gold, 5 ounces (troy); nitro- 
muriatic Acid (aqua regia), 52 ounces (avoir- 
dupois) ; dissolve by heat, and continue the 
heat until red or yellow vapors cease to be 
evolved ; decant the clear liquid into a suita- 
ble vessel; add distilled water, 4 gallons; 
pure bicarbonate of potassa, 20 pounds ; and 
boil for 2 hours. The nitro-muriatic acid is 
made with pure nitric acid (specific gravity 
1.45), 21 ounces ; pure muriatic acid (specific 
gravity 1.15), 17 ounces; and distilled water, 
14 ounces. 

3589. Gilding by Immersion. Dis- 
solve teroxide or terchloride of gold in a solu- 
tion of pyrophosphate of soda, and dip the 
article to "be gilt in it. 

3590. Gilding and Silvering by- 
Amalgams. For these processes see Nos. 
3532 to 3538. 

3591. Gold Plating Powder. Wash 
thoroughly ^ ounce chloride of gold; then 
add it to "a solution of 2 ounces cyanide of 
potassium in a pint of clean rain water; 
shake well, and let it stand until the chloride 
is dissolved. Add 1 pound prepared Spanish 
whiting, expose to the air till dry, and then 
put awav in a tight vessel for use. 

35921 To Apply Gold Plating Pow- 
der. Make some gold plating powder into a 
paste with water, and rub it oa the surface of 
the article with a piece of chamois skin or 
cotton flannel. The surface of the article 
should be thoroughly cleansed before apply- 
ing the plating powder. 

3593. Gilding Paste. Metalhc sur- 
faces are gilt by rubbing on the following 
mixture : Terchloride of gold, 36 parts ; dis- 
solve in pure water, 36 parts, and mix with 



a solution of cyanide of potassium, 60 parts, 
in pure water, 80 parts ; shake well^ and set 
by for 15 minutes, then filter. This liquid is 
thickened with a powder composed of pre- 
pared chalk, 100 parts; cream of tartar, 5 
parts. 

3594. Fire Gilding. This was exten- 
sively done before the discovery of the art of 
electroplating. Many a piece of beautiful 
workmanship has come down to us from an- 
cient Rome and Greece, gilded, and probably 
in the same way as we do it now, under the 
name of fire-gilding. It requires more gold, 
the coating being thicker, and is therefore more 
expensive ; but it will last longer, and is the 
more convenient way for gilding coins and 
small articles. Clean the silver piece, by 
means of a brush and a little ammonia water, 
until the surface is evenly bright and shows 
no tarnish. Take a small piece of gold and 
dissolve it in about 4 times its volume of me- 
tallic mercury, which will in a short time be 
accomplished and an amalgam formed. {See 
Nos. 3533 and 3534. ) Put a little of this amal- 
gam on a piece of dry cloth, and rub the sil- 
ver piece with it on all sides ; then place it on 
a clean stone in a furnace, and heat to the 
beginning of redness. After cooling it must 
be cleaned again with a brush and a little 
cream of tartar, when it will be found beauti- 
fully and lastingly gilded. 

3595. To Remove the Gilding from 
Old China. The following method is recom- 
mended for removing the remains of gilding 
from old china : Take soft water, 8 parts by 
measure ; nitric acid, 8 parts ; common salt, 4 
parts ; sal-ammoniac, 1 part. Let it boil, put 
the chma into it, and rub with a stifi" brush. 

3596. Wernicke's Method of Gilding 
Glass. The following are the ingredients re- 
quired: 1st. Solution of gold. Pure gold, 
free from silver, is dissolved in aqua regia, the 
solution evaporated, and the residue taken up 
with water, so that 120 cubic centimeters 
(1 gill) contain 1 gramme (15.4 grains) of 
gold. 2d. Solution of sodic hydrate (which 
need not be absolutely pure) of 1.06 specific 
gravity. 3d. Reducing liquid. 50 grammes 
(771-J- grains) sulphuric acid (monohydrate), 
40 grammes (617 grains) alcohol, 35 grammes 
(539 grains) water, and 50 grammes powdered 
manganic peroxide, are distilled into 50 
grammes of water until the bulk of the latter 
is doubled — 10 grammes (154 grains) cane- 
sugar, inverted by dissolving in 70 cubic cen- 
timeters (-1% gill) water, and boiling with 3 
gramme, (7| g]-ains) nitric acid of specific 
gravity 1.34. The distilled liquid, the invert- 
ed sugar, and 100 cubic centimeters {-^ gill) 
alcohol are mixed together, and the mixture 
diluted to 500 cubic centimeters (1 yV pi^ts). 
In using these solutions, 1 volume of the sodic 
hydrate solution is mixed with 4 volumes of 
the gold solution, and to this mixture is added 
from 1.35 to 1.30 volume of the reducing 
liquid. The object to be gilded is placed on 
the top of the solution, having the surface in- 
tended to be coated turned downwards. 
The temperature of the bath should be below 
140- Fahr. 

3597. Boettger's Method of Gilding 
Glass. Boettger has modified "Wernicke's 
process for throwing down gold on glass as 
follows : He prepares the soda solution by 



326 



aiLDING, SILVERING, ETC, 



dissolving 6 grammes (922 grains) caustic 
soda in 100 cubic centimeters (/^o" gill) water; 
the reducing fluid, to be made when washed, 
by dissolving 2 grammes (31 grains) common 
starch-sugar (glucose) in 24 grammes (370 
grains) distilled water, and adding 24 cubic 
centimeters (j gill) alcohol of 80 per cent., 24 
cubic centimeters aldehvde of .870 specific 
gravity : neutral solution of chloride of gold, 
1 gramme (15.4 grains) of gold in 1,200 cubic 
centimeters (2-|- pints) water. Four volumes 
of the gold solution are mixed in a suitable 
vessel with one volume soda solution and 1.16 
volumes of the reducing liquid, and the liquid 
rapidly poured into the hollow glass globe to 
, *be plated. Five minutes is sufficient to insure 
the deposit of a thin film of gold, but it is bet- 
ter to allow more time. Flat plates of glass 
can be laid upon the surface of the liquid, as 
in the silvering process ; the surfaces of the 
glass should be carefully cleaned with soda 
and alcohol, and not with acids. The greater 
part of the gold is thrown down in flocculi, 
and can be recovered for subsequent use — the 
amount deposited upon the glass being very 
small. The mirrors are to be well washed 
and dried in the air. Where the baths are 
heated, the deposition of gold takes place 
more rapidly, but not so fine ; it is better to 
keep the temperature below 140° Fahr, and 
to allow the metal coating to form slowly. 
3598. Upton's Gold Detergent. 
Quicklime, 1 ounce ; sprinkle with a little hot 
water to slack it, then gradually add 1 pint 
boiling water, so as to form a mUk ; dissolve 2 
ounces pearlash in l^ pints boiling water ; mix 
the two solutions, cover up, agitate occasion- 
ally for an hour, allow it to settle, decant the 
clear, put it into flat half-pint bottles, and 
cork them down weU. It is used to clean 
gilding, &c., either alone or diluted with 
water. It is applied with a soft sponge, and 
then washed off with clean water. It is es- 
sentially a weak solution of potassa, and may 
be extemporaneously prepared by diluting 
liquor of potassa with about 5 times its volume 
of water. 

3599. Gruene's Method of Gilding 
and Silvering Silk. By a formula publish- 
ed by Gruene, for silvering or gilding silk, the 
silk is to be soaked with a 5 per cent, solu- 
tion of iodide of potassium, and dried ; then 
(in non-actinic light, see No. 3140), dipped in 
a 5 per cent, solution of nitrate of silver, con- 
taining a few drops of nitric acid, and well 
drained ; next exposed for a few minutes to 
sunlight, and then dipped in a 2 per cent, so- 
lution of sulphate of iron. It immediately be- 
comes gray, from reduction of metallic silver, 
and, after washing and drying, only requires 
burnishing in order to acquire the metalKc 
lustre. By repeating this treatment, varied, 
however, by adding a little free iodine to the 
solution of iodide of potassium, the silver de- 
posit becomes stronger. By laying the silver- 
ed silk in a very weak solution of chloride of 
gold, the silver becomes chloride, and gold is 
deposited ; and by then removing the chloride 
of silver by a solution of hyposulphite of soda, 
washing, drying, and burnishing, the appear- 
ance of gilding is produced, if the deposit of 
metal be sufficiently thick. The purest chem- 
icals must be used in all gilding processes, in 
order to secure satisfactory results. 



3600. Silvering Powder. Employed 

for silver coatuig dial plates, statuettes, and 
other articles of copper, "and covering the worn 
parts of plated goods, previously well cleaned, 
l3y friction. They are made into a paste with 
a little water, for use. 

3601. To Make Silvering Powder. 
Eub together to a fine powder 20 grains fine 
silver dust {see No. 3217), 30 grains alum, 1 
drachm common salt, and 3 drachms cream of 
tartar; 35 grains of nitrate of silver may be 
substituted for the silver dust. Or : Dissolve 
chloride of silver in a solution of hyposulphite 
of soda, and make into a paste with levigated 
burnt hartshorn or bone dust ; dry and pow- 
der it. Or: mix 1 ounce silver dust, 4 ounces 
each of common salt and sal-ammoniac, and 
i ounce corrosive sublimate. In using the last, 
copper utensils are previously boHed with tar- 
tar and alum, and rubbed with this paste, 
then made red-hot, afterwards polished. 
Lastly : A good silvering powder may be 
made as follows : dissolve chloride of silver in 
a solution of hyposulphite of soda, and mix 
this with prepared hartshorn or other suitable 
powder. 

3602. Novargent. This is said to con- 
sist of a solution of fresh precipitate chloride 
of silver in hyposulphite of soda (or, accord- 
ing to the Pharmaceutical Journal, of oxide 
of silver in cyanide of potassium), mixed 
with prepared chalk. 

3603. Silvering Paste. I^itrate of sil- 
ver, 1 part; cyanide of potassium (Liebig's), 3 
parts ; water sufficient to form a thick paste. 
Apply it with a rag. A bath for the same 
purpose is made by dissolving 100 parts of 
sulphite of soda, and 15 of nitrate of silver, 
in water, and dipping the article to be silvered 
into it. 

3604. Silvering Solution. Prepare a 
solution of 1 part cyanide of potassium in 6 
parts water ; add it to a concentrated aqueous 
solution of nitrate of silver (free from acid) 
until the precipitate is redissolved. Mix this 
solution with fine chalk, and apply after pre- 
vious cleaning of the objects. 

3605. Non-poisonous Silvering Fluid. 
Mtrate of silver, 80 parts ; dissolve in distilled 
water, 36 parts; add sal-ammoniac, 40 parts; 
hyposulphite of soda, 160 parts; and lastly, 
whiting, 160 parts. Apply in the usual way. 

3606. Silver Plating Fluid. Dissolve 
1 ounce crystals of nitrate of silver in 12 oun- 
ces soft water. Then dissolve in the water 2 
ounces cyanide of potassium. Shake the 
whole together and let it stand till it becomes 
clear. Have ready some half-ounce phials, 
and fill them half full of Paris white, or fine 
whiting, and then fill up the bottles with the 
liquid, and it is ready for use. The whiting 
does not increase the coating power ; it only 
helps to clean the articles, and to save the sil-; 
ver fluid by half filling the bottles. This is 
the preparation commonly vended by ped- 
dlers. 

3607. Silver Solution for Plating 
Copper, Brass, and German Silver. Cut 
into small pieces a twenty-five cent piece, 
and put it into an earthen vessel with i ounce 
nitric acid. Put the vessel into warm water, 
uncovered, until it dissolves. Add \ gill of 
water and 1 tea-spoonful of fine salt, and let it 
settle. Drain ofi" and repeat, adding water to 



GILDING, SILVERING, ETC. 



327 



the sediment nntil the acid taste is all out of 
the water. Add finally about 1 pint of water 
to the sediment, and 4 scruples cyanide of po- 
tassium. Put into the solution a piece of 
zinc about 2 inches long, 1 wide, and i in 
thickness. After cleaning, immerse the article 
to be plated in the solution about half a min- 
ute, letting it rest on the zinc. "Wipe off with 
a dry cloth and repeat once. Polish with 
buckskin. The thickness of plate can be in- 
creased by repeating. 

3608. Silvering Hooks and Eyes. A 
patent has been granted in Bavaria, for the 
following method of silvering hooks and eyes 
made of iron ware. The articles are suspend- 
ed in dilute sulphuric acid until the iron 
shows a clean bright surface. After rinsing 
in pure water, they are placed in a bath of a 
mixed solution of sulphate of zinc, sulphate of 
copper and cyanide of potassium, and there 
remain until they receive a bright coating of 
brass. Lastly, they are transferred to a bath 
of nitrate of silver, cyanide of potassium and 
sulphate of soda, in which they quickly receive 
a coating of silver. 

3609. To Plate Common Copper 
Buttons. Mix 2 ounces chloride of silver, 1 
ounce corrosive sublimate, 3 pounds table salt, 
and 3 pounds sulphate of zinc, with water, into 
a paste. The buttons are cleaned, smeared 
over with the mixture, and exposed to a mod- 
erate degree of heat, which is afterwards raised 
nearly to redness, to expel the mercury which 
has united with the silver from the corrosive 
sublimate. The silvered surface is then 
cleaned and burnished. 

3610. Simple Process for Silvering. 
This is an improved process for silvering cop- 
per, brass, and other alloj's, by means of a so- 
lution of silver in cyanide of potassium; the 
difference from the usual method consists in 
the use of zinc-filings, with which the objects 
are coated ; when the silvering solution is ap- 
plied, an immediate deposition of a much 
more durable character taking place. The 
filings are easily removed by rinsing in water, 
and may be used repeatedly for the same pur- 
pose. Metallic iron may be coated with cop- 
per in the same manner, by substituting for 
the silver a solution of copper in cyanide ; and 
over this copper deposit a coating of silver 
may be applied. 

3611. Cold Silvering. Mix 1 part 
chloride of silver with 3 parts pearlash, Ik 
parts common salt, and 1 part whiting, and 
rub the mixture on the surface of brass or 
copper (previously well cleansed), by means 
of a piece of soft leather or a cork moistened 
with water and dipped into the powder. 1 
part precipitated silver powder, mixed with 2 
parts each cream of tartar and common salt, 
may also be used in the same way. "When 
properly silvered, the metal should be well 
washed in hot water slightly alkalized, and 
then wiped dry. 

3612. Spencer's Method of Silvering 
"Wood. The first operation is to take strong 
alcohol or spirits of tm-pentine in a glass ves- 
sel, and add to it a piece of phosphorus (a 
common corked phial will answer the pur- 
pose); the vessel must now be placed in hot 
water for a few minutes, and occasionally 
shaken ; by this means the alcohol will take 
about 3 per cent, of its bulk of phosphorus. 



iSText procure a weak solution of nitrate of 
silver, place it in a flat dish or saucer ; the face 
of the wood must now be dipped in this solu- 
tion, and let it remain a few minutes to allow 
capillary attraction to draw it into the wood. 
This operation being performed, a small por- 
tion of the solution of phosphorus must be 
placed in a capsule or watch-glass, and thi.; 
placed on a sand-bath, that it may gradual!}' 
evaporate. The wood must now be held with 
its surface over the vapor, and an immediate 
change takes place ; the nitrate of silver is de- 
composed, and gives place to metallic silver. 
"When the material to be acted on is not very 
large, fasten it to the top of a bell-glass re- 
ceiver with a bit of pitch or cement, and place 
this over the capsule on the sand-bath ; the 
phosphorus vapor is by this means equally 
diffused, and not dissipated. A solution of 
phosphorus in sulphuric ether also answers; 
and a solution of gold (chloride) may be used. 
This elegant process, as appHed to wood and 
those substances which may be wetted with 
the solution of nitrate of silver, answers per- 
fectly ; but it is obviously limited in its appli- 
cation to those substances which will absorb 
an aqueous solution. 

3613. Silvering Glass. Two distinct 
methods are adopted for this purpose. The 
one falsely called silvering, consists of the ap- 
plication of a layer of an amalgam of tin, or 
similar alloy, to the surface of the glass {see 
No. 3614), the other is a coating of real sil- 
ver, precipitated from a solution of that metal. 
{See Nos. 3615, cj-c.) 

3614. To Silver Looking-Glasses. 
This is usually done by coating the glass with 
an amalgam. For this purpose a large, per 
fectl}" flat stone table is provided ; upon it is 
evenly spread a sheet of tin foil without crack 
or flaw; this is covered uniformly to the 
depth of ^ inch with clean mercury. The 
plate of glass, perfectly cleansed from all 
grease and impurity, is floated on to the mer- 
cury carefully, so as to exclude all air bubbles. 
It is then pressed down by loading it with 
weights in order to press out all the mercury 
which remains fluid, which is received in a 
gutter around the stone. After about 24 
hours it is raised gently upon its edge, and in 
a few weeks it is ready to frame. It is said 
to be desirable to have the lower end of the 
glass, from which the mercury was drained, 
at the bottom of the frame. To convex and 
concave mirrors the amalgamated foil is ap- 
plied by means of accurately fitting plaster 
moulds. The interior of globes is silvered by 
introducing a liquid amalgam, and turning 
about the globe till every part is covered 
with it. {See Nos. 3538 and 3545.) 

3615. To Silver Glass. An easy and 
economical process. Mix 90 parts by measure 
of a solution of Rochelle salts at 1.50 specific 
gravity, with 900 parts distilled water, and 
boil them in a flask ; drop in carefully 20 parts 
of a solution of nitrate of silver specific grav 
ity 1.18, and boil again. This solution can 
be bottled and kept for any length of time. 
Another fluid has to be prepared by adding 
ammonia to a solution of nitrate of silver 
until the precipitate is entirely dissolved ; fil- 
tering and diluting 1 part of it with 100 parts 
of water. For use, put equal parts of the two 
preparations in a suitable vessel, clean the 



328 



aiLBING, SILVEBING, ETC 



glass ■well (see No. 3621), and immerse it in 
the mixture until sufficiently coated. The 
coating of silver should be protected mth a 
coat of lac varnish. 

3616. Drayton's Process for Silvering 
Glass. Mr. Drayton mixes 1 ounce nitrate 
of silver, 3 ounces water, 1 ounce liquid am- 
monia, and 3 ounces spirit of wine, and filters 
the solution after 'A, has stood 3 or 4 hours. 
To every ounce of the solution he adds J 
©unce sugar (grape sugar if possible), dissolv- 
ed in equal quantities of "water and alcohol. 
The surface to be silvered is covered with this 
liquid at a temperature of 160° Fahr., main- 
tained till the deposition of silver is complete. 
"WTien quite dry, the coated surface is covered 
with mastic varnish. Other substances be- 
sides sugar occasion the deposition of silver 
from the ammoniacal solution ; as oil of cas- 
sia, oil of cloves, and other essential oils, al- 
dehyde, &c. Unger recommends a strong al- 
coholic solution of tannin. He had accident- 
ally mixed in a dish a small quantity of a 
thick alcoholic solution of tannin with an 
equally small quantity of a strong solution of 
nitrate of silver ; and in the course of a short 
time he found the dish coated with a thin, 
brilliant, and unifoitn layer of metallic silver. 
He directly repeated the experiment, and met 
with the same result again and again. He 
next proceeded to evaporate the liquid to dry- 
ness by placing the dish on the surface of 
"warm sand. As soon as it was completely 
dry, the coating was found to be so fast on 
the porcelain that it required the point of a 
sharp penknife to scrape it off. He also suc- 
ceeded in producing a brilliant metallic coat- 
ing from a saturated solution of sulphate of 
copper by the same solution of tannin. 

3617. Pettijean's Process of Silver- 
ing Glass. Two solutions are to be pre- 
pared. Thej^>-5^is composed of 26| drachms 
nitrate of silver and 2 ounces aqua am- 
monia, dissolved in 1 pint of distilled water. 
After filtration this liquor is diluted with 16 
times its volume of distilled water, and, drop 
by drop, a solution of 116^ grains of tartaric 
acid is added. 

The second is prepared in the same manner, 
but with a double quantity of tartaric acid. 
As these solutions are rapidly reduced, pre- 
pare in the morning the liquors to be used 
during the day. Before sHvering, the glass is 
perfectly cleaned, first with chalk and a fine 
cloth, then with a bung and a little of the 
first solution. It is then nibbed dry with a 
piece of chamois leather. {See No. 3621.) 
The glass, laid horizontally upon a table of 
cast iron, at a perfect level, is heated (by 
means of a cast iron water-bath beneath) to 
113° Fahr., an India-rubber roller dipped in 
distilled water is next passed over its surface, 
and then its surface is covered with Iso. 1 
solution. The deposit of silver commences 
in about 10 minutes, and is completed in 
about 15 minutes afterwards. The glass is 
then tilted up so as to allow the liquor to run 
off, and rinsed with water rather more than 
lukewarm to carry away the non-adherent 
powder. It is then restored to its horizontal 

Position and covered with solution Xo, 2. I 
n a quarter of an hour the deposit is com- 
pleted. The next thing is to wash the plate 
as before, and dry it, after which it onlv re- 



mains to polish and burnish the film of silver 
deposited, in order to make it perfectly 
smooth, and give closeness to the grain. To 
cover a three-feet square of glass requires 5 
pints of liquor. The deposit is, therefore, 
about 1| drachms to every 9 square feet. To 
preserve the coating of silver from sulphura- 
tion and rubbing, it is covered with a paint 
made with 1 pound of lead pigment, 1-^ 
ounces of drying oil, and 65 ounces of spirits 
of turpentine. Liebig has produced the same 
result by depositing on the silver a coating of 
galvano-plastic copper, but the advantages 
resulting from the greatest solidity of the 
deposit scarcely compensate for the practical 
inconveniences of the process. 

3618. To Silver Specula and Other 
Glass Surfaces. Make a solution of am- 
monio-nitrate of silver, of the strength of 
three grains to the ounce. Eender it very 
slightly turbid by excess of nitrate of silver, 
and then filter it. Just before using, add to 
each ounce of the foregoing solution 21 grains 
of Eochelle salts. Having scrupulously 
cleaned the glass intended to be silvered 
{see No. 3621), place it in a convenient vessel 
about one inch from the bottom, supported 
on three little cones of white wax. The 
glass plate may be suspended; but in that 
case there is more difficulty in avoiding vibra- 
tion, the absence of which is essential to 
success. Expose to a northern light, or any 
other subdued light, and in about two hours 
the deposit of silver will be sufficiently 
thick. It must now be carefully removed, 
washed, and dried, IVhen the smface next 
the glass is to be used as the reflector, the 
glass side should be cleaned by nitric acid if 
the state of its surface, after the silvering, so 
require ; and the silvered side should receive 
a protecting coating of a good tough black 
vamish, 

3619. Liebig's Process for Silvering 
Glass Mirrors. The process of silveiing 
glass generally rests on the reduction of 
metallic silver from a solution by means of 
glucose or some other organic substance. By 
Liebig's method the deposit of silver is pro- 
duced by the action of a mixture consisting of 
50 parts by measure of a silver solution, and 
10 parts of a reducing solution, this latter 
previously diluted with 250 to 300 parts wa- 
ter. The components of the silver solution 
are : 140 parts of a solution containing 10 per 
cent, of nitrate of silver ; 100 parts of a solu- 
tion of nitrate of ammonia (free from chloriue) 
of 1.115 specific gravity (or a solution of sul- 
phate of ammonia of specific gravity 1.105- 
1.106 ;) lastly, 750 parts of caustic soda lye of 
specific gravity 1,050, In case sulphate of 
ammonia is used, its solution must be added 
to the silver solution, not as in the case of 
nitrate. The reducing solution consists of 1 
part by measure of sugar liquor and 1 part 
of copper liquor. 

The sugar liquor is prepared by dissolving 
50 grammes (7712 grains) white sugar in wa- 
ter to a thin syrup, kept for 1 hour at a boil- 
ing heat with Sfj grammes (48 grains) tartaric 
acid ; the solution is then diluted to measure 
500 cubic centimeters (liV pints). 

The copper liquor consists of a solution of 
^MMfo grammes (44 grains) dry tartrate of 
copper in water, by the aid of a caustic soda 



aiLDIXG, SILVERING. ETC. 



329 



solution added by drops uutQ the blue salt is 
dissolved; the whole is then diluted with 
water to measure 500 cubic centimeters (lyo 
pints). 

The glasses to be silvered, if for miiTors, 
are placed upright on their edge in the silver- 
ing tank and held together in pairs by clamps; 
when for optical purposes, they are held in a 
horizontal position, just touching the surface 
of the fluid. In cold seasons the temperature 
must be kept at 68° to 84° Fahr. The 
quantity of silver necessary for a square yard 
of surface is from 46 to 54 grains. 

3620. Bird's Process for Silvering 
Mirrors or Specula. The mirror or specu- 
lum to be silvered is first cleaned {see No. 
3621), and then suspended, face downwards, 
in a silver bath prepared thus: A large Aat 
shallow vessel of glass or porcelain is provided, 
to contain the solution. 750 grains nitrate of 
silver are dissolved in 6 ounces distilled wa- 
ter, and to this is added pure liquid ammonia, 
drop by drop, until the precipitate which is 
thrown down is redissolved. 2 ounces caustic 
potash are dissolved in 50 ounces, by measure, 
of rain water ; and 15 ounces of this solution 
are added to the ammoniacal solution, when 
a brown-black precipitate will be produced. 
Ammonia is again added, drop by drop, until 
this precipitate is just redissolved ; and 29 
ounces of distilled water are then added to 
the whole. To this mixture is again added, 
drop by drop, stirring with a glass rod, a 
strong solution of nitrate of silver, until a 
precipitate, which does not redissolve, begins 
to be formed. Previous to immersing the 
speculum, 1 part, by weight, of powdered 
milk sugar to 10 parts, by measure, of distilled 
water, must be prepared in a separate vessel, 
and filtered until a clear solution is obtained. 
Then, to 10 parts, by measure, of the silvering 
solution, must be added 1 part, by measure, of 
the milk sugar solution, and, finally, 50 
ounces of the compound solution will be 
sufficient to silver a speculum 9 inches in dia- 
meter. To facilitate the suspending, a circu- 
lar block of wood is very firmly cemented to 
the back of the speculum with marine glue or 
pitch, and three pins inserted at equal dis- 
tances round the margin, to which strings 
may be fastened. On lowering it into the 
bath, cfxe must be taken that no air bubbles 
intervene, that the speculum be not deeper in 
the liquid than half its thickness, and that a 
depth of 2 inches, at least, intervene between 
the face of the speculum and the bottom of 
the vessel. In 10 minutes after immersion a 
metallic film will be seen foraiing on the 
glass, and in an hour or two a compact silver 
coating will be laid over the whole surface. 
The speculum should remain m the bath for 
4 hours, by which time the process is com- 
pleted ; it is then carefully removed, copious- 
ly washed ^vith distilled water, and placed on 
its edge to dry. It is then ready for polishing. 
{See No. 3622.) 

3621. To Clean the Surface of Glass 
for Silvering. As the success of the silver- 
ing process depends greatly on the glass sur- 
face being made chemically clean previous to 
immersion in the bath, the utmost pains must 
be taken to accomplish this object. The sur- 
face is first covered with thick whiting cream, 
free from grit; which, when dry, is rubbed off i 



with the purest cotton wool. The surface is 
then wetted entirely with dilute nitric acid, 
and afterwards thoroughly washed with dis- 
tilled water poured over it ; and, last of all, 
the piece of coated glass is suspended in a 
flat vessel containing alcohol, where it re- 
mains until the bath is ready to receive it. 

3622. To Polish a Silvered Surlace 
on Glass. To accomplish this, rub the sur- 
face gently, first with a clean pad of fine cot- 
ton wool, and afterwards with a similar pad 
covered over with cotton velvet, which has 
been charged with fine rouge. The surface 
will, under this treatment, acquire a polish of 
intense brilliaucv, quite free from any#cratches. 

3623. To Silver Glass for the Reflec- 
tors of Telescopes. The solutions employ- 
ed are four in number, and they require some 
care in their first preparation; but once made 
they are always ready, and can be used with 
great rapidity and certainty for depositing a 
lustrous, mirror-like surface of silver on a 
piece of glass of any desired shape or curva- 
ture : — 

Solution iSTo. 1 is prepared by dissolving 1 
part, by weight, of nitrate of silver, in 10 parts 
of distilled water. 

Solution IsTo. 2 consists of an aqueous solu- 
tion of pm-e ammonia, having a density of 
13.3° Baume. 

Solution JSTo. 3 consists of 4 parts of pure 
caustic soda in 100 of distilled water. 

Solution JSTo. 4 is made by dissolviug 12-^ 
parts of the best white loaf sugar in 100 parts 
distilled water. To this add 1 part, by mea- 
sure, of nitric acid, boil for 20 minutes, in 
order to invert or alter the molecular arrange- 
ment of the particles of the sugar, and then 
add water to increase the volume to 500 parts 
by measure, and finally add 50 parts alcohol. 

These solutions will remain unchanged for 
a long time. When required for use, prepai-e 
a silvering liquid by pouring into a flask 12 
parts, by measure, of the silver solution, 'So. 
1 ; 8 parts, by measure, of the ammoniacal so- 
lution, iSTo. 2 ; then 20 parts of the soda solu- 
tion, jSTo. 3; and, lastly, add 60 parts of distill- 
ed water, in order to make up the volume to 
100. If the proportions have been properly 
observed, the liquid so prepared will be per- 
fectly clear, but will be rendered turbid by the 
smallest addition of nitrate of silver solution. 
It must be allowed to remain without disturb- 
ance for 24 hours, to permit the floating par- 
ticles to settle. The clear liquid decanted 
from the sediment will then be ready for use. 
The surface of the glass which has to be 
silvered must be well cleaned with a tuft of 
cotton and a few drops of nitric acid, and then 
washed with distilled water. {See No. 3621.) 
Drain it, and support it on the surface of the 
silvering bath, which is composed of the above 
described silvering liquid, with the addition of 
To 01' tV its volume of the sugar solution, 
ISTo. 4. The surface to be silvered, should, bj 
preference, be at the upper part of the liquid, 
so that the silver may be deposited on it from 
below upward. There are two advantages in 
this — first, the deposit is finer and more even: 
and, second, there is no danger of floating 
particles of dust settling on the surface. It 
is, however, scarcely necessary to say that 
silver will be deposited upon every part of the 
glass which is under the surface of the liquid. 



330 



GILDING, SILVERING, ETC. 



as "well as tipon the sides and bottom of the 
vessel; so that, as a matter of economy, as 
little as possible of the back of the glass 
should be exposed to the action of the liquid. 
The action seems to be more rapid in the 
light than in darkness. Under the influence 
of diffused light the liquid becomes yellow, 
then brown, and in a few minutes the whole 
of the exposed surface of the glass will be 
covered with a fine deposit of silver. In 
about a quarter of an hour the thickness of 
the metallic coating will be sufficient to bear 
the subsequent operations without injury; it 
must then be washed with plenty of water, 
and rested by one corner on several thick- 
nesses of blotting-paper to dry spontaneously. 
The surface will now be covered with a thin 
whitish veil, which may be readily removed 
by gentle friction with chamois leather; it 
may afterwards be polished with jewelers' 
rouge, when a perfectly brilliant surface will 
be produced. {See No. 3622.) 

3624. To Repair the Silvering of 
Looking-Glasses. The repairing of the sil- 
vering on the backs of looking-glasses has 
hitherto been considered a very difficult 
operation. A new and very simple method, 
however, has been described before the Poly- 
technic Society of Leipsic. It is as follows : 
Clean the bare portion of the glass by rubbing 
it gently with fine cotton, taking care to re- 
move any trace of dust and grease. If this 
cleaning be not done very carefully, defects 
will appear around the place repaired. AVith 
the point of your knife cut upon the back of 
another looking-glass around a portion of the 
.silvering of the required form, but a little 
larger. Upon it place a small drop of mer- 
cury; a drop the size of a pin's head will be 
sufficient for a surface equal to the size of the 
nail. The mercury spreads immediately, pen- 
etrates the amalgam to where it was cut ofi" 
with the knife, and the required piece may 
now be lifted and removed to the place to be 
-repaired. This is the most difficult part of the 
operation. Then press lightly the renewed 
portion with cotton ; it hardens almost imme- 
diately, and the glass presents the same ap- 
pearance as a new one. 

3625. To Repair a Damaged Mirror. 
Pour upon a sheet of tin foil about 3 drachms 
of quicksilver to the square foot of foil. Eub 
smartly with a piece of buckskin until the foil 
becomes brilliant. Lay the glass upon a flat 
table, face downwards ; place the foil upon 
the damaged portion of the glass ; lay a sheet 
of paper over the foil, and place upon it a 
block of wood or a piece of marble with a 
perfectly flat surface; put upon it sufficient 
weight to press it down tight ; let it remain 
in this position a few hours. The foil will 
adhere to the glass. 

3626. Process for Silvering Animal, 
Vegetable, or Mineral Substances. This 
process is founded upon the electro-chemical 
action exercised by certain liquors in which 
the objects to be silvered are plunged. The 
method of preparing these liquors is as fol- 
lows : 

Liquor ¥o. 1. — Take 2 parts by weight of 
caustic lime, 5 of sugar of milk or grape 
sugar, 2 of gallic acid, and make of them a 
mixture in 650 parts of distilled water ; filter, 
protect from the air as much as possible, and 



put in a closely stoppered bottle until the 
moment of using. 

Liquor No. 2.— Dissolve 20 parts nitrate of 
silver in 20 parts solution of ammonia, and 
add to this solution 650 parts distilled water. 
When it is intended to operate, the two pre- 
ceding liquors are mixed in equal quantities, 
and, after having been well agitated, filtered. 
As the solution of ammonia of commerce has 
not always the same degree of concentration, 
it would be better, perhaps, to dissolve the 
nitrate of silver destined for the liquor No. 2, 
first in distilled water, then mix the solution 
with liquor No. 1, and then add ammonia in 
quantity only just sufficient to entirely clear 
the mixture. The deposition of silver can be 
accelerated by the employment of heat; in 
this case, the temperature depends upon the 
nature of the objects to be submitted to the 
operation. The method of employing the 
above liquors in silvering the surfaces of dif- 
ferent materials is given in the following six 
receipts : 

3627. To SHver Silk, "Woolen, Cotton, 
Etc. When it is intended to silver silk, 
woolen, cotton, etc., commence by washing 
the substance clean ; this done, immerse it for 
a moment in the saturated solution of gallic 
acid; then withdraw it to plunge it for a 
second in another solution composed of 20 
parts nitrate of silver to 1000 parts distilled 
water. These alternate immersions are con- 
tinued, until the substance from being dark 
becomes of a brilliant tint; after that it is 
plunged in a bath composed of a mixture of 
the two liquors, Nos. 1 and 2. (See No. 3626. ) 
When it is completely silvered, it is withdrawn 
and boiled in a solution of salt of tartar (car- 
bonate of potassa)in water, and there remains 
nothing more to be done but a last washing 
and drying. 

3628. To Silver Bone, Horn, Paper, 
Etc. Bone, horn, wood, paper, etc., are sil- 
vered in the same way (see No. 3627) with 
this diff"erence, however, that, in the place of 
the alternate immersions above indicated, the 
objects to be silvered are operated upon with 
a brush or pencil dipped alternately m the 
gallic acid solution and in that of nitrate of 
silver. The silvered surfaces are then washed 
with distHled water, dried by free air and 
heat. 

3629. To Silver Leather. For leather 
tanned with sumach, in the place of nitrate of 
silver (see No. 3627) the chloride mixed with a 
few drops of rosemary oil may be employed 
with advantage. The silvered surface is 
then washed and dried as directed in last re- 
ceipt. 

3630. To Silver Stucco and Pottery. 
Stucco and pottery may be silvered by the 
same process as No. 3628, but before being 
submitted to the operation they should be 
covered with a coat of stearine or varnish. 

3631. To Silver Glass, Crystal, or 
Porcelain. To silver glass, crystal, or porce- 
lain, commence by washing thoroughly (see 
No. 3621) the object with distilled water, and 
with alcohol, and then operate as has been 
said with the mixture. (See No. 3626.) Ob- 
jects with a plane surface should be placed in 
a horizontal position, and the liquor poured 
upon them. (See Nos. 3618, ^-c.) When 
mirrors are to be silvered, the plates of glass 



GILDING, SILVERING, ETC, 



331 



may be disposed in a vertical position ; place 
them two and two face against face, in troughs 
of gutta percha, taking care to prevent all 
contact with the sides ; then fill with the li- 
quid. Precipitation of silver commences in a 
quarter of an hour, and at the end of a few 
hours the operation is finished. "When dry, 
coat the silvered surface with varnish. 

3632. To Silver the Metals. Com- 
mence by cleansing them with nitric acid; 
rub them afterwards with a mixture of cyan- 
ide of potassium and powdered silver ; then, 
after washing with water, they are plunged 
alternately into the liquors Nos. 1 and 2 (see 
No. 3626), until they appear sufficiently sil- 
vered. If working with iron, it should be 
first immersed m a solution of sulphate of 
copper. The process which has been de- 
scribed presents above all others the advan- 
tage of very solid results, and of employing 
chemical agents of low price. 

3633. To Coat Copper Plates with 
Brass. Expose the plates, heated sufficient- 
ly, to the fumes of zinc. Zinc boils and is 
vaporized by heatiug it to a white heat. 

3634. To Coat the Inside of Copper 
Vessels with Brass. Dissolve 1 part zinc 
amalgam {see No. 3539) in 2 parts muriatic 
acid ; add 1 part argol (crude tartar), and add 
sufficient water to fill the vessel ; then boil it 
in the vessel. 

3635. To Deposit Copper upon Cast 
Iron. The pieces of cast iron are fij'st 
placed in a bath made of 50 parts hydro- 
chloric acid, specific gravity 1.105, and 1 
part nitric acid ; next, in a second bath, com- 
posed of 10 parts nitric acid, 10 parts of 
chloride of copper, dissolved in 80 parts of the 
same hydrochloric acid as just alluded to. 
The objects are rubbed with a woolen rag and 
a soft brush, next washed with water, and 
again immersed until the desired thickness of 
copper is deposited. AThen it is desired to 
give the appearance of bronze, the copper sur- 
face is rubbed with a mixture of 4 parts sal- 
ammoniac and 1 part each oxalic and acetic 
acids dissolved in 30 parts water. 

3636. Graeger's Process for Covering 
Iron and Steel with Copper without a 
Battery. The objects are lirst well cleaned, 
and then painted over with a solution of 
protochloride of tin, and immediately after- 
ward with an ammoniacal solution of sulphate 
of copper. The layer of copper thus produced 
adheres so firmly to the iron or steel, that the 
diflerent objects can be rubbed and polished 
with fine chalk without injuring the deposit. 
The tin solution is prepared with 1 part 
crystallized chloride of tin, 2 parts water, and 
2 parts hydrochloric acid. The copper solu- 
tion, with 1 part sulphate of copper, 16 parts 
water, adding ammonia sufficient to redis- 
solve the precipitate first thrown down by it. 
Zinc and galvanized ii-on can be treated, ac- 
cording to Boettger, du-ectly by the copper 
solution, without using the tin salt. The 
above process may be found useful by gilders, 
and for various ornamental purposes. 

3637. Weil's Process for Coating 
Iron with Copper. This process yields a 
coating of copper of great brightness and 
strong cohesion. The object, whether of 
cast or wrought iron, is freed from rust by 
immersion for from 5 to 10 minutes in water 



containing 2 per cent, of muriatic acid, and 
subsequent scrubbing for ^ hour with a wu'e 
brush and sand, then washing in water until 
all traces of acid are removed. It is then 
covered with zinc wire in spiral turns of 
about 6 inches from each other, which also 
serves as a means of suspension. The bath 
consists of a solution of 8 parts caustic soda 
in 100 parts water, of which 11 quarts are 
mixed with 50 ounces Eochelle salts and 12 i- 
ounces sulphate of copper, making a liquid of 
a density equal to 19° Baume. It retains its 
activity as long as the copper is kept replaced, 
and deposition from it proceeds with great 
regularity. The material of the vessel is 
best when made of wood, lined with gutta- 
percha, and covered with a wooden lid. "WTien 
the coating is of sufficient thickness, the ob- 
ject is removed from the bath, first washed 
with water slightly acidified with sulphuric 
acid, and then with pure water until the dis- 
appearance of all traces of acid ; after this it 
passes into a drying room heated to 132° 
Fahr, The bronzing, when required, is ob- 
tained by a bath of sulphide of sodium, or by 
means of the same bath as above, somewhat 
modified, that is, by increasing the proportion 
of copper to a threefold, in which case the 
bath no longer deposits copper, but, to all ap- 
pearances, bronze. By reducing the points of 
contact between the iron and wire, though 
retaining the spiral turns at uniform distances, 
the deposit gradually assumes a number of 
colors in the following series, viz. : orange, 
silver-white, pale yellow, golden yellow, car- 
mine, green, brown, and dark bronze. As soon 
as the desired cohn* is attained, the object is 
washed in warm water, and again dried at 132°. 
Between each subsequent change of color is an 
interval of about 5 minutes. The reaction is 
more decided when the alkaline reaction of 
the bath is stronger. For indoor work or 
ornaments the time of immersion may vary 
from 3 to 72 hours ; for outdoor objects a 
much longer time would be necessarv. 

3638. To Tin Iron Pots and other 
Domestic Articles. The articles are clean- 
ed with sand, and, if necessarv, with acid, and 
put then in a bath, prepared with 1 ounce 
cream of tartar, 1 ounce tin salt (protochloride 
of tin), 10 quarts water. This bath must be 
kept at a temperature of 190° Fahr., in a 
stoneware or wooden tank. Bits of metallic 
zinc are put into and between the difi'erent 
pieces. When the coat of tin is considered 
thick enough, the articles are taken out of 
the fluid, washed with water, and dried. 

3639. To Tin by the Moist Way. 
Make a solution of 1 part protochloride of 
tin in 10 parts water, to which add a solution 
of 2 parts of caustic soda in 20 parts water; 
the mixture becomes turbid, but this does not 
affect the tinning operation, which is effected 
by heating the objects to be tinned in this 
fluid, care being taken, at the same time, to 
place in the liquid a piece of perforated block 
tin plate, and to stir up the fluid during the 
tinning with a rod of zinc. 

3640. To Tin Iron Without the Aid 
of Heat. To 105 quarts water are added 6^ 
pounds rye meal ; this mixture is boiled for 
30 minutes, and next filtered through cloth; 
to the clear but thickish liquid are added 233 
pounds pyrophosphate of soda^ 37^ pounds 



aiLBING, SILV BEING, ETC, 



protochloride of tin in crystals (so-called tin 
salt), 147-1- pounds neutral protochloride of 
tin, 33 to 4 ounces sulphuric acid; this liquid 
is placed in weU made wooden troughs, and 
serves more speciaUj for the tinning of iron 
and steel wire (previously polished) for the 
use of carding machines. "When, instead of 
the two salts of tin just named, cyanide of 
silver and cyanide of potassium are taken, the 
iron is perfectly silvered. 

3641. To Cleanse Iron for Tinning. 
The metal must be cleansed by immersion in 
an acid solution ; for new metal, this solution 
should be sulphuric acid and water, but for 
old metal, muriatic acid and water; next 
scour with sand, and cleanse well with water. 

3642. To Tin Iron. First cleanse as 
above, then heat the article just hot enough 
to melt the tin, rub the surface over with a 
piece of sal-ammoniac, and sprinkle some of 
the sal-ammoniac in powder over it ; then ap- 
ply the tin and wipe it over evenly with a 
piece of tow. 

3643. Cold Tinning. Eub pm-e tm- 
foil and quicksilver together until the amal- 
gam becomes soft and fusible, clean the sur- 
face to be tinned with spirits of salt (hydro- 
chloric acid), and, while moist, rub the amal- 
gam on, and then evaporate the quicksilver 
by heat. 

3644. Stolba's Method of Tinning 
Copper, Brass, and Iron in the Cold, and 
"without Apparatus. The object to be 
coated with tin must be entirely free from 
oxide or rust. It must be carefully cleaned, 
and care be taken that no grease spots are 
left ; it makes no difference whether the ob- 
ject be cleaned mechanically or chemically. 
Two preparations are requisite for the purpose 
of tinning. Zinc jpowder — the best is that pre- 
pared artificially by melting zinc and pouring 
it into an iron mortar. {See Xo. 3312.) It 
can be easily pulverized immediately after 
solidification; it should be about as fine as 
writing sand. A solution of protochloride of 
tin, containing 5 to 10 per cent., to which as 
much pulverized cream of tartar must be 
added as will go on the point of a knife. 

The object to be tinned is moistened with 
the tin solution, after which it is rubbed hard 
with the ziQC powder. The tinning appears 
at once. The tin salt is decomposed by the 
ZIQC, metallic tin beiag deposited. "Whien the 
object tinned is polished brass or copper, it 
appears as beautiful as if silvered, and retains 
its lustre for a long time. This method may 
be used in a laboratory to preserve iron, 
steel, and copper apparatus from rust; and 
would become of great importance if the tin- 
ning could be made as thick as in the dry 
way, but this has not as yet been accom- 
plished. 

3645. To Tin Copper Tubes. W. 
"W^oUweber recommends for stni-worms cop- 
per tubes tinned inside in the following man- 
ner : To a solution of Eochelle salts a solution 
of salts of tin is added ; a precipitate of stan- 
nous tartrate is formed, which is washed and 
then dissolved in caustic lye. The copper 
tube, which has first been rinsed with sul- 
phuric acid and then washed, is then filled 
with the alkaline solution, warmed a little, 
and touched with a tin rod, which causes the 
deposition of a coat of metallic tin. 



3646. To Tin a Worn Copper Kettle. 

A thick coating maybe obtained by preparing 
a tinning solution of zinc dissolved in muri- 
atic acid, making the solution as thick or 
heavily charged with zinc as possible, adding 
a little sal-ammoniac. Clean the inside w 
the kettle, place it in a charcoal fire until a 
piece of block tin placed inside melts, then 
rub the melted tin with some of the tinning 
solution, quickly on the copper vsuiface, by 
means of a ball of oakum and a little pow- 
dered resin; the tin will readily adhere. 
TTrought iron and steel may be tinned in the 
same manner. 

3647. To Tin a Copper Vessel. Boil 
the copper vessel with a solution of stannate 
of potassa mixed with tin borings, or boil 
with tin filings and caustic alkali or cream of 
tartar. In a few minutes a layer of pure tin 
will be firmlv attached. 

3648. To Tin Cast Copper or Brass. 
Make a saturated solution of oxide of tin (tin 
inittij), in potash lye; add to the solution 
some tin filings or shavings ; make it as hot 
as possible ; then introduce the brass or cop- 
per and it will be tinned in a few seconds. 

3649. To Galvanize Iron. The differ- 
ence between galvanized plates, so-called, and 
'^sheet-tin," is, that the latter is sheet-iron 
covered with a thin coating of block-tin, while 
the former is sheet-iron covered with a thin 
coating of zinc. To effect the latter result, 
the iron plates are first immersed in a cleans- 
ing dath of equal parts of sulphuric or muri- 
atic acid and water, used warm. (See No. 
3266.) They are then scrubbed with emeiy 
or sand, to clean them thoroughly and detach 
aU scales, if any are left ; after which they are 
immersed in a 2jrepa?'ing lath of equal parts 
of saturated solutions of chloride of zinc and 
chloride of ammonium, from which bath they 
are directly transferred to the fluid metallic 
lath, consisting of 20 chemical equivalents of 
zinc to 1 of mercury ; or, by weight, 640 
pounds of zinc to 106 of mercury, to which 
are added from 5 to 6 ounces of sodium. As 
soon as the iron has attained the temperature 
of this hot fluid bath, which is only 680° 
Fahr., it may be removed, and will then be 
found thoroughly coated with zinc. Care 
must be taken not to leave the plates too long 
immersed in this bath, as its ajQ5nity for 
iron is such that they may become dissolved. 
This is the case with thin plates of wrougbt- 
iron, which, even when ^ inch thick, may be 
dissolved in a few seconds. It is safe, there- 
fore, to let the bath previously act on some 
wrought-iron, so that it dissolves a portion of 
it, in order to satisfy its inconveniently great 
affinity for this metal. 

3650. To Zinc or Galvanize Grey- 
Iron Castings. Cleanse the articles in an 
ordinary chafing mill, which consists of a 
barrel revolving on its axis containing sand ; 
when the sand is all removed, take them out 
and heat one by one, plunging, while hot, in a 
liquid composed as follows : 10 pounds hydro- 
chloric acid, and sufficient sheet zinc to make 
a satm-ated solution. (See No. 3473.) In 
making this solution, when the evolution of 
gas has ceased, add muriate, or preferably 
sulphate of ammonia, 1 pound, and let it 
stand until dissolved. The castings should 
be so hot that when dipped into this solution, 



GILDING, SILVEBIXG, ETC, 



333 



and instantly removed, they will immediately 
dry, leaving the surface crystallized like 
frost-work on a window pane. Xext plunge 
them while hot, hut perfectly dry, into a bath 
of melted zinc, previously skimming the oxide 
on the surface away, and throwing thereon a 
small amount of' powdered sal-ammoniac. 
If the articles are very small, inclose them in 
a wrought-iron basket on a pole, and lower 
them into the metal. "WTien this is done, 
shako off the superfluous metal, and cast them 
into a vessel of water to prevent them from 
adhering when the zinc solidifies. 

3651. To Zinc Copper or Brass Ves- 
sels. Boil the vessel in a solution of chloride 
of zinc, adding a quantity of zinc turnings to 
the solution. 

3652. Boettger's Process for Coating 
Copper and Brass with. Zinc by a Wet 
Process. Place zinc in grains or powder in 
a non-metallic vessel, and cover the zinc with 
a concentrated solution of sal-ammoniac ; 
warm to ebullition, and introduce into the 
mixture the objects of copper or of brass 
which it is desired to coat, after having pro- 
perly cleansed them. After a few minutes, 
the object will be covered with a brilliant, 
firmly adhering deposit of zinc. (6'ee JVb. 3312.) 

3653. To Coat Copper with. Zinc. 
To granulate the zinc, a clean surface of cop- 
per may bo coated with zinc by placing the 
two metals in contact in a solution of caustic 
soda or potash. {See Fig. I., Xo. 3665.) In 
the cold the deposit of zinc takes place slowly, 
but at 100° it is efiected rapidly. 

3654. Purcher's Method of Coating 
Zinc with Iron. Dissolve 5 ounces pure 
sulphate of iron, and 3 ounces sal-ammoniac, 
in 5 pounds of boiling water, and immediately 
immerse the objects to be treated. After from 
1 or 2 minutes the loose black deposit is re- 
moved by brushing it off with water. The 
principal effect of this operation is a perfect 
cleaning of the surface. The immersion in 
the hot iron solution is then repeated, with 
the difference that the objects, when taken out, 
are heated, without rinsing, over a pan of live 
coals as long as the ammoniacal vapors are 
evolved. TThen, after several immersions, 
the coating is considered thick enough, it is 
polished by brushing, and will ever afterward 
be a perfect protection against oxidation. It 
imparts a fi.ne black lustre to the coated sur- 
faces. 

3655. Process for Covering Articles 
of Zinc with Copper or Brass by One 
Immersion. To give zinc a coat of copper 
or brass for the purpose of a subsequent sil- 
vering or gilding, the following solutions are 
used : For copper alone, a solution of sulphate 
of copper, saturated at the common tempera- 
ture, is mixed with a solution of cyanide of 
potassium, adding as much of the latter as is 
necessary to redissolve the precipitate thrown 
down at first. The prussic acid disengaged 
during this operation must be canied off by 
a draught or flue. "WTien the mixture is clear, 
1^ or ;§- of its volume of water of ammonia is 
added, and then diluted with water to a den- 
sity of 8° Baume. For brass, sulphate of cop- 
per and sulphate of zinc are used in equal pro- 
portion, and prepared as before. 2 parts sul- 1 
phate of zinc and 1 of sulphate of copper give 
a bright brass coating. Previous to their dip- 1 



ping, the articles of zinc are rubbed off thoi 
oughly with finely-powdered pumice-stone 
and rinsed in water, after which they are 
placed in the bath and remain there for 24 
hours. After that time they are again 
rinsed in water and simply wiped off. The 
copper or brass covering "has a very bright 
look, as if polished, and adheres perfectly. 
The thickness of the coat may be increased 
afterwards by the aid of a batterv. 

3656. Dullo's Method of "^Platinizing 
Glass. This is recommended to prevent 
fusing of the thin end of a glass tube used 
for a blowpipe. In drawing out the end of 
the tube, leave the diameter slightly larger 
than is necessary; then roughen the narrow 
end with a file. Dip in a solution of bi- 
chloride of platinum, containing 5 per cent, of 
the metal; remove excess of the drop, and 
heat cautiously till the glass acquires a me- 
tallic appearance. Repeat this 4 or 5 times. 

3657. Boettger's Method of Platiniz- 
ing Glass. Pour rosemary oil upon the dry 
chloride of platinum in a porcelain dish, and 
knead it well until all parts are moistened; 
then rub this up with 5 times its weight of 
lavender oil, and leave the liquid a short time 
to clarify. The objects to be platinized are to 
be thinly coated with the above preparation 
and afterwards heated for a few minutes in a 
muffle or over a Bunsen burner. 

3658. Platinizing Copper, Yellow 
Metal, and Brass. In order to obtain a 
platinizing fluid capable of platinizing copper, 
yellow metal, and brass, add to a moderately 
concentrated solution of chloride of platinum, 
finely powdered carlionate of soda, until effer- 
vescence ceases; next some glucose, and after- 
wards just so much common salt as will cause 
a whitish-colored precipitate. When it is de- 
sired to apply this mixture for platinizing, the 
objects to be treated are placed in a vessel 
made of zinc and perforated with holes ; the 
vessel is then placed, with its contents, for a 
few seconds in the mixture thus described, 
which, just previous to using, should be heat- 
ed to 140° Fahr. On being removed from the 
zinc vessel, the objects are to be washed with 
water and dried in sawdust. 

3659. Stolba's Method of Nickel 
Plating. Into the plating vessel — which 
may be of porcelain, but preferably of copper 
— is placed a concentrated solution of chloride 
of zinc, which is then diluted with from 1 to 2 
volumes of water, and heated to boiling. If 
any precipitate separates, it is to be redissolv- 
ed by adding a few drops of hydrochloric acid. 
As much powdered zinc as can be taken on 
the point of a knife is thrown in, by which 
the vessel becomes covered internally with a 
coating of zinc. The nickel salt — for which 
purpose either the chloride or sulphate may 
be used — is then added until the liquid is dis- 
tinctly green ; and the articles to be plated, 
previously thoroughly cleaned, are introduced, 
together with some zinc fragments. The 
boiling is continued for 15 minutes, when the 
coating of nickel is completed, and the process 
is finished. The articles are well washed with 
water and cleaned with chalk. If a thicker 
coating be desired, the operation may be re- 
peated. Professor Stolba found that copper 
vessels thus plated were scarcely tarnished 
after several months' use in the laboratory. 



834r 



ELECTBOTYPIXa. 



Electrotyping. This is a pro- 
cess for depositing a coating of metal 
on objects, metallic or otherwise, by the 
agency of a current of galvanic electricity. 
Before entering into any description of the 
methods employed, it will be necessary to 
give some indispensable preliminary direc- 
tions, in order that the whole matter may be 
more clearly understood. The matter is main- 
ly derived from the 4th edition of Kapler's 
Manual of Electro-Metallurgy. 

3661 . Solution of Copper for Electro- 
t-yping. Crush fine sulphate of copper in 
i^rystals, and expose to the air for some time. 
This oxidizes any iron that may be present. 
Stir the sulphate of copper into pure cold 
water, until the water wiU. dissolve no more ; 
then let it settle, and decant the clear solu- 
tion ; add to it about one-fourth its quantity 
of water, and it is ready for use. 

3662. To Amalgamate Zinc. Immerse 
a plate or strip of zinc of the required size in 
diluted sulphuric acid, for a few moments ; 
then rub quicksilver over the surface. "When- 
ever the surface of the amalgamated zinc em- 
ployed in a battery begins to blacken and 
lose its quicksilver coating, the zinc must be 
taken out of the acid cell and amalgamated 
again. 

3663. To Keep the Zinc Plates of a 
Smee's Battery Constantly Amalgam- 
ated. The trouble of renewing the coating 
of amalgam on the zinc plates may be obvia- 
ted by a very simple contrivance. Cover the 
bottom of the cell with quicksilver, and let 
the zinc plates be long enough to dip into it. 
The silver plate must be a little shorter than 
the zinc plates, so that it will not touch the 
mercury. By this arangement the zinc plates 
draw up the mercury as fast as it is worn off 
by the action of the acid. 

3664. Decomposing Cell. This is a 
vessel of suitable shape and dimensions, con- 
taining the plating or electrotyping solution ; 
and is usually furnished with appliances over 
it for suspending and sustaining in their pro- 
per position the negative electrodes or arti- 
cles to receive the metallic coating, and their 
corresponding j)05i^it;e electrodes, or plates of 
metal, which serve to complete the electric 
circuit, and whose decomposition serves to 
keep up the strength of the solution. The 
positive electrode must always be of the same 
metal as that which the solution contains. 

3665. The Principles of the Galvanic 
Battery Explained. If a piece of ordinary 
metallic zinc be put into dilute sulphuric acid, 
it is speedily acted upon by the acid, and 
hydrogen gas is at the same time evolved 
from its surface. If the zinc be taken out, 
and a little mercury be rubbed over its sur- 
face, an amalgamation takes place between the 
two metals, and the plate becomes of a beauti- 
ful bright silver appearance. If the zinc thus 
amalgamated be again put into the dilute acid, 
there is no action, for the mercury retains the 
zinc with sufficient force to protect it from the 
acid. If a piece of copper be immersed along 
with the zinc, and the two metals be made to 
touch each other, a particular influence is in- 
duced among the three elements, zinc, copper, 
and acid ; and the acid again acts upon the 
zinc as if no mercury was upon it, but the 
hydrogen is now seen to escape from the sur- 



face of the copper ; this action will gio on aa 
long as the two metals are kept in contact. 
Or if, instead of causing the two metals to 
touch, a wire be attached to each, and their 
opposite ends are placed in a little dilute acid 
in another vessel, the same action will take 
place between the zinc and copper as when 
they were in contact; but in this instance, 
the ends of the two wires which dip into the 
vessel containing acid will undergo a change ; 
the one attached to the zinc will give off 
a quantity of hydrogen gas, while the one 
attached to the copper, supposing it to be 
also copper, will rapidly dissolve. 

Figure 1. Represents the zinc and copper, 
placed in dilute sulphuric acid, brought into 
contact ; in this experiment, gas will be seen 
escaping from the copper. 




±i(j. i. Fig. 2. Fig. 3. 

Figure 2. Zinc and copper, placed iu dilute 
acid, and wires attached, which, when con- 
nected, will exhibit the same effects as in the 
first case. 

Figure 3. Shows the wires connected by 
means of a liquid, such as acid and water, 
sulphate of copper, etc., contained in a wine- 
glass. 

The copper and zinc, c and z, with the acid 
in the first vessel, figure 3, constitute a battery 
of one pair. The wine-glass in which the 
wires are placed, is termed the decomposing 
cell (see ^"o. 3364), and is the receptacle or 
vessel in which the process of electroplating 
is effected. The above description will give 
a tolerably clear idea of the principles of a 
simple galvanic battery. Different kinds of 
batteries are only different modifications or 
applications of the same principles, and have 
each their special excellence; but for electro- 
plating, Smee's battery is the one usually 
adopted. 

3666. To Construct a Cheap Gal- 
vanic Battery. Take a gallon stone jar, 
and place a sheet-zinc cylinder therein, and 
inside that a porous cup (a porous flower-pot 
with a cork fitted in the hole will answer 
after a fashion). Inside the porous cup place 
a piece of sheet copper. Use a solution of 
common salt next the zinc, and a solution of 
sulphate of copper next the copper in the 
porous cup, if a strong current be desired. 
The liquids inside and outside the porous cup 
should stand at the same level. Dilute sul- 
phuric acid (1 part acid to 10 water) makes a 
very constant, but weaker current. 

3667. Description of a Smee's Bat- 
tery. This apparatus consists of a vessel 
containing a mixture of about 15 or 20 (Mor- 
fit gives only 7) parts water to 1 part sul- 
phuric acid, provided with a strip of baked 
and varnished wood, long enough to stand 
across the edge of the vessel, and grooved 
lengthways underneath, to receive the edge of 



ELECTRO TYPING 



335 





a silver plate, to which a short wire is at- 
tached and connected through a hole in the 
wood with a screw cap on the upper side of 
the wood. Two plates of zinc are arranged, 
one on each side of the strip of wood, and 
secured by a screw clamp, the upper part of 
which is also fitted with a screw cap. The 
object of the screw caps is to receive and 
secure the wires connecting with the decom- 
posing cell. The zinc plates must first be 
coated with amalgam {see No. 3662, also No. 
3663) ; and the silver plate must be covered 
with a coating of platina 
{See No. 3670.) The ar 
rangement of the part 
will be seen in the cut. 
'^VTien two or more cells 
are used in combination, 
forming a compound bat- 
tery, the silver plate of 
the first cell is connected 
by a wire with the zinc 
plates of the second ; the 
silver plate of the second 
cell is connected with the 
zinc of the third cell; the 
silver of the third with 
the zinc of the fourth, 
and so on through any number of cells. 
The two wires connecting the battery with 
the decomposing trough are attached, one to 
the zinc plates of the first cell, and the other 
to the silver plate of the last cell. In fact, 
the zinc pole of the first, and silver pole of the 
last cell, really constitute the battery, the in- 
termediate cells each furnishing an additional 
quota, as it were, of intensity, to the galvanic 
current. 

The wire connected with the zinc (or posi- 
tive) plates is called the negative pole or 
cathode ; and the wire connected to the 
silver (or negative) plate is called the positive 
pole or anode. The material used for con- 
necting wires is usually copper, and should be 
clean and bright, and in order to insure per- 
fection of contact, the ends of the wire may 
be amalgamated by dipping, first in a solu- 
tion of nitrate of mercury, and then in metal- 
lic mercury. 

3668. Improved Liqiiid for the Gal- 
vanic Battery. Mr. Yictor Barjon's new 
battery liquid is made by mixing a solution 
of bichromate of potash with a little lime, 
and with sulphuric acid. He puts 2 pounds 
bichromate of potash into a gallon of boihng 
water, and lets the solution cool down to 68°, 
and adds 2 ounces of lime. After stirring, he 
adds sulphuric acid until the gravity reaches 
35° Baum6, Then, having stirred the whole, 
he lets it stand for 24 hours, when it is ready 
for us^e. 

3669. Electrotyping by the Single 
Cell Process. This is an adaptation of 
Dauiell's cell to the purposes of electrotyping, 
and dispenses with any separate decomposing 
cell ; in fact it is a galVauic battery and a de- 
composing cell combined in one, and is useful, 
for small objects, from its simplicity. About 
f fill a large jar (a preserve jar without any 
neck is best), with a solution of sulphate of 
copper {see No. 3661) ; insert in this a small 
tubular porous vessel of about the same 
height as the jar (these porous tubes can be 
found at any store where chemical apparatus 



is sold), and pour into it a mixture of 21 parts 
water and 1 part sulphuric acid, until the 
diluted aci^l in the porous tube stands at the 
same level as the sulphate of copper solution 
outside it. To one end of a piece of copper 
wire fasten a strip of amalgamated zinc {see 
No. 3662), which is to be inserted in the 
porous tube ; to the other end of the wire 
attach the object to be eleotro typed, properly 
prepared {see No. 3689), and place it in the 
copper solution, with its face parallel to the 
zinc plate, and about i an inch from the side 
of the porous tube. In about 24 hours the 
deposit of copper will be of about the thick- 
ness of a card, and may be taken ofi". When 
not in use, the zinc should be taken out, 
washed and dried ; and when in use must on 
no account touch the bottom or any other 
part of the porous tube. It is a good plan to 
give the wire one twist round a stick of wood, 
laid across the top of the tuue, so as to sus- 
pend and support the zinc. A few crystals of 
sulphate of copper, enclosed in a piece of 
lawn or net, should be hung from the edge of 
the vessel just below the surface of the copper 
solution, to replace the copper that deposits 
on the object being electrotyped, and prevent 
the solution from becoming weaker. 

3670. To Coat Silver with Platina. 
This is efi"ected by the one cell process, sub- 
stituting for the sulphate of copper solution, 
water acidulated with sulphuric acid, and con- 
taining a little chloride of platinum. The 
silver is first roughened on the surface by ap- 
plying strong nitric acid, and washed ; it is 
then attached to the end of the wire leading 
from the zinc plate in the porous cell, and im- 
mersed in the platinum solution exactly as if 
it were a medal to be electrotyped, until the 
surface is covered with a dark and granular 
deposit. 

3671. Electrotyping with a Battery. 
For this purpose a Smee's battery {see No. 
3667) is usually employed, in connection with 
a decomposing cell. {See No. 3664.) As the 
method for electrotyping, or coating with 
copper, is substantially the same as for other 
metals, a description of the first vrill suffice. 
The decomposing cell being charged with a 
solution of sulphate of copper {see No. 3661), 
the object, duly prepared {see No. 3689), to be 
electrotyped, is properly secured in p^)sition, 
and connected with the cathode or wire lead- 
ing from the zinc plates of the battery. To 
the anode or wire leading from the silver 
plate, a positive electrode, consisting of a 
piece of the same metal as the solution con- 
tains (in this case, copper), is attached, and 
immersed in the solution, face to face with 
the object to be electrotyped ; as the copper 
from the solution is precipitated on the ob- 
ject, the piece of copper is dissolved, and thus 
keeps up the strength of the solution. Any 
number of objects may be electrotyped in the 
same decomposing cell, provided that each is 
connected with the zinc pole of the battery, 
and hangs facing a positive electrode. The 
usual arrangement for this pui'pose consists of 
a water-tight trough of suitable size and 
shape (usually oblong), to contain the copper 
or other metallic solution, and is provided 
with metal bars, long enough to reach the 
length of the trough and rest on the upper 
edge at each «nd; the bars rest on dry 



336 



ELECTBOTYPING 



Yamished blocks of Avood, and are laid pa- 
rallel to each other at a distance of 3 or more 
inches apart, according as the space between 
them is required. Plates of copper of nearly 
the same length as the trough are suspended 
from the bars, and submerged in the solution 
parallel with them. These bars, and conse- 
quently the copper plates (which constitute 
continuous positive electrodes) are connected 
with coppex wire or ribbons to the anode, or 
silver pole of the battery. Alternately be- 
tween these bars, other bars are placed, exact- 
ly similarly arranged, but having small pro- 
iections or buttons on one of their sides, to 
which the objects to be electrotyped are 
secured by a wire, and suspended in the solu- 
tion, face to face with its corresponding cop- 
per plate. These latter bars are connnected 
with the cathode or zinc pole of the battery. 
It will thus be evident that each contiguous 
pair of bars are mutually positive and nega- 
tive electrodes, and the objects on the one 
must closely face the copper plate on the 
other. The accompanying cut will give some 
idea of the arrangement of one ])air of bars. 

B B 1^ the bar connected by the wire S 
with the silver pole of the battery, and sup- 
porting a plate of copper suspended in the 
trough. In the cut, the copper is supposed 
to be transparent, in order that the objects to 




be electrotyped, suspended from the bar A A, 
may be visible ; they are supposed to be he- 
Jiind and closely facing the copper plate. 
The bar ^ ^ is connected by the wire Z to 
the zinc pole of the batterv. 

3672. To Obtain a Copper Mould of 
a Coin. A fine copper wire must be put 
round the edge of the coin and fastened by 
twisting. Then cover the back part, and the 
wire, upon which the deposit is not required, 
with bees' wax or taUow, or, what is better, 
imbed the back of the coin in gutta percha. 
Have the fore part or face well cleaned, and 
the surface moistened with sweet oil, by a 
camel's-hair pencil, and then cleaned off by a 
silk cloth, till the surface appears dry ; or, in- 
stead of oil, the surface may be brushed over 
with black lead, which will impart to it a 
bronze appearance. The use of the oil or 
black lead is to prevent the deposit adhering 
to the face of the coin. The coin is now ready 
to be subjected to the single cell process (see 
No. 3669), by which means a perfect counter- 
part or mould of the coin is obtained. This 
mould may next be treated exactly as de- 
scribed for obtaining it from the original coin, 
and the deposit from it will be a fac-simile 



of one side of the coin. "With care, any num- 
ber of duplicates may be taken from this 
mould, if it be properly coated. 

3673. Coating for Copper Moulds. 
Take a gill of rectified spirits of turpentine, 
and add to it about the size of an ordinary 
pea of bees' wax. "When this is dissolved, wet 
over the surface of the mould with it, and 
then allow it to dry : the mould is then ready 
to put into the solution. Medals taken from 
moulds so prepared retain their beautifully 
bright color for a long time. But when fine 
line engravings are to be coated, the little 
wax dissolved in the turpentine may be ob- 
jectionable; so also is black lead, for both 
have a tendency to fill up the fine lines. In 
this case, let the turpentine wash be wiped 
off with a silk handkerchief, instead of drying 
it; but for ordinary medals this objection 
will scarcely apply. 

3674. Preparation of Wax for Taking" 
Moulds. "Whether the bees' wax have steariue 
in it or not, it is best to prepare it in the fol- 
lowing manner: Put some common virgin 
wax into an earthenware pot or pipkin, and 
place it over a slow fire ; and when it is all 
melted, stir into it a little white lead (flake 
white), or black lead (plumbago), say about 1 
ounce white lead to the pound of wax ; this 
mixture tends to prevent the mould from 
cracking in the cooling, and from floating in 
the solution ; the mixture should be re-melted 
two or three times before using it for the first 
time. Eesin has been recommended as a 
mixture with wax; mixtures of which, in 
various proportions, have been used with suc- 
cess ; but when often used, decomposition or 
some change takes place, which makes the 
mixture granular and flexible, rendering it 
less useful for taking moulds. "When resin is 
used, the mixture, when first melted, should 
be boiled, or nearly so, and kept at that heat 
until effervescence ceases; it is then to be 
poured out upon a flat plate to cool, after 
which it mav be used as described. 

3675. To Take Moulds in Wax. The 
medal to be copied must be brushed over 
with a little sweet oil : a soft brush, called a 
painter's sash tool, suits this purpose well : 
care must be taken to brush the oil well into 
all parts of the medal, after which the super- 
fluous oil must be wiped off with a piece of 
cotton or cotton wool. If the medal has a 
bright polished surface, very little oil is re- 
quired, but if the surface be matted or dead, 
it requires more care with the oil. A slip of 
card-board or tin is now bound round the 
edge of the medal, the edge of which slip 
should rise about one-fourth of an inch higher 
than the highest part on the face of the 
medal. This"" done, hold the medal with its 
rim a little sloping, then pour the wax in the 
lowest portion, and gently bring it level, so 
that the melted wax may gradually flow over; 
this wUl prevent the formation of air-bubbles. 
Care must be taken not to pour tiie wax on 
too hot, as that is one great cause of failure in 
getting good moulds ; it should be poured on 
just as it is beginning to set in the dish. As 
soon as the composition poured on the medal 
is set (becomes solid), undo the rim, for if it 
was allowed to remain on till the wax became 
perfectly cool, the wax would adhere to it, 
and would be liable to crack from shrinking. 



ELE C TB TYPING 



337 



Put the medal and wax in a cool place, and 
in about an hour the two will separate easily. 
"When they adhere, the cause is either that 
too little oil has been used, or that the wax 
was poured on too hot. 

3676. To Take Wax Moulds from 
Plaster. If the object from which the mould 
is to be taken, which we assume to be a 
medal, be composed of plaster of Paris, and 
the mould is to be taken in wax, the first 
operation is to prepare the plaster medal. 
Some boiled linseed oil, such as is used by 
house painters, is to be laid over the surface 
of the medal with a camel's-hair pencil, and 
continued until it is perfectly saturated, which 
is known by the plaster ceasing to absorb 
any more of the oil. This operation succeeds 
best when the medal is heated a little. The 
medal should now be laid aside till the oil 
completely dries, when the plaster will be 
found to he, quite hard, and having the ap- 
pearance of polished marble; it is, conse- 
quently, fit to be used for taking the wax 
mould, which is done in the same manner as 
we have described for taking a wax mould 
from a metallic medal. {See No. 3675.) 
Many prefer saturating the medal with wa- 
ter. " This is best done by placing the medal 
back down in the water, but not allowing it 
to flow over the face ; the water rises, by capil- 
lary attraction, to the surface of the medal, 
rendering the face damp without being wet. 
The rim being now tied on the plaster medal, 
the melted wax is poured upon it. This 
method is equally good, but liability to fail- 
ures is much greater, caused generally by the 
wax being too hot. The plaster medal may 
be saturated with skimmed milk and then 
dried ; by repeating this twice, the plaster as- 
sumes on the sm'face an appearance like mar- 
ble, and may be used for taking wax moulds. 

3677. To Take Moulds in Plaster. 
If a plaster of Paris mould is to be taken from 
the metallic medal, the preparation of the 
medal is the same as described in JSTo. 3676 ; 
and when so prepared with the rim of card- 
board or tin, get a basin with as much water 
in it as will be sufficient to make a proper 
sized mould (a very little experience will 
enable the operator to know this), then take 
the finest plaster of Paris and sprinkle it into 
the water, stirring it till the mixture becomes 
of the consistence of thick cream ; then pour 
a small portion upon the face of the medal, 
and, with a brush similar to that used for oil- 
ing it, gently brush the plaster into every 
part of the surface, which will prevent the 
formation of air-bubbles; then pour on the 
remainder of the plaster till it rises to the 
edge of the rim : if the plaster is good, it wiU 
be ready for taking off in an hour. The 
mould is then to be placed before a fire, or in 
an oven, until quite dry, after which it is to 
be placed, back downwards, in a shallow ves- 
sel containing melted wax, not of sufficient 
depth to flow over the face of the mould, al- 
lowing the whole to remain over a slow fire 
until the wax has penetrated the plaster, and 
appears upon the face. Having removed it to 
a cool place to harden, it will soon be ready 
for electrotyping. Griycerine afi'ords an ex- 
cellent coating for the interior of plaster 
moulds, to prevent the melted wax from 
adhering to the inside of the mould. 



3678. To Take Moulds of Plaster 
from Plaster Models. When a plaster 
mould is to be taken, the face of the model is 
prepared difi"erently to that described, in order 
to prevent the adhesion of the two plasters. 
The best substance for this purpose is a mix- 
ture of soft soap and tallow, universally used 
by potters for preparing their moulds, and 
called by them lacquer. It is prepared in the 
following manner : § pound soft soap is put 
into 3 pints clean water, which are set on a 
clear fire, and kept in agitation by stirring ; 
when the mixture begins to boil, add from 1 
to 1| ounces tallow, and keep boiling till it is 
reduced in bulk to about 2 pints, when it is 
ready for use. The surface of the medal 
must be washed over with this lacquer, allow- 
ing it to absorb as much as it can, when it 
assumes the appearance of polished marble ; 
it is now prepared with a rim of paper, and 
the mould taken as directed for taking plaster 
moulds. {See No. 3677.) When hardened, 
they will separate easily. Wetting the pi aster 
model with a solution of soap before taking 
the cast will do, or, if the plaster model has 
been saturated with oil or milk, it has only to 
be moistened with sweet oil the same as a 
metal model. 

3679. To Take Moulds of Fusible 
Alloy from Plaster Models. If a mould 
of fusible metal be required from a plaster 
model, the plaster may be saturated either 
with boiled oil {see No. 3676), or the soap' 
and tallow lacquer {see No. 3678), and the 
mould taken in the same manner as from a 
metallic medal. {See No. 3677.) 

3680. Copper Moulds fromi Plaster.. 
Many electro-metallurgists prefer taking a 
mould in copper when the medal is of plaster 
of Paris. This is done by the electrotype 
process {see No. 3671) ; the plaster model is 
saturated with wax over a slow fire, as 
already detailed, and then prepared for taking 
an electrotype in the usual manner {See No. 
3672, <f c. ) We need hardly mention that the 
model in this case is destroyed ; but, not- 
withstanding, in the case of plaster models,, 
to take a copper mould is the most preferable,. 
as it may be repaired in case of slight defect,, 
and it may be used over and over again with- 
out deterioration. "When an electrotype is 
required of a model that is undercut, or of a 
bust or figure, the process which we have 
described will not answer, as the mould can- 
not separate from the model. In such cir- 
cumstances the general method of proceeding 
is to part the mould in separate pieces, and 
then join these together. The material used 
for this purpose is plaster of Paris. The 
operation, however, to be well done, requires 
a person of considerable experience. 

3681. To Take Moulds in Gutta- 
percha. Gutta-percha, as a material for 
moulding, serves the purpose most admirably. 
The method adopted for taking moulds is to 
heat the gutta-percha in boiling water, or in a 
chamber heated to the temperature of boihng 
water, which makes it soft and pliable. The 
medal is fitted with a metallic rim, or placed 
in the bottom of a metal saucer with a cylin- 
drical rim a little larger than the medal ; the 
medal being placed back down, a quantity of 
gutta-percha i« pressed into the saucer, and as 
much added as wiU cause it to stand above 



ELECTB OTYFIiVG, 



the edge of the rim. It is now placed in a 
common copying-press and kept nnder pres- 
snre until it is quite cold and hard. The im- 
pressions taken this way are generally very 
line. "When the medal is not deep cut a less 
pressure may suffice, but when the pressure 
is too little" the impression will be blunt. 
Gutta-percha takes a coating of black lead 
readily, and the deposit goes over it easily. 
A mixture of gutta-percha and marine glue 
has been recommended for moulds as superior 
to gutta-percha alone. This method of mould- 
ing by pressure is adopted, in principle, by 
printers, for making electrotype plates from 
type and engravings, employing sheets of 
prepared wax, at a temperature which gives 
it the proper consistency, 

3682. To Mould the Face of a Person 
in Wax. Take 1 pound new wax, ^ pound 
resin, melt them at a slow fii-e, let them cool 
till you can endure some of it on your hand 
without burning it; then, having oiled the 
face with olive oil, and covered the hair of 
the eye-lids and eye-brows with paste, with a 
brush nimbly cover the face about the thick- 
ness of a quarter of a dollar, being careful not 
to stop the nostrils, and that the person does 
not close his eyes firmly enough to wrinkle 
his face, because that will render the face de- 
formed. Take the wax off gently, and 
strengthen it with clay on the back, that it 
may not give way. After this manner you 
may cast all sorts of faces; laughing, weeping, 
or wry faces ; also fruits or anything else, di- 
viding the mould into two pieces with a warm 
knife ; then fortify them with clay and join 
them together. 

3683. To Mould Figures in Paste. 
Take the crumbs of a new drawn white loaf, 
mould it until it becomes as close as wax, 
and very pliable ; beat it, and roll it with a 
rolling-pin, as fine and as far as it will go ; 
then apply it to the figure to be moulded; dry 
it in a stove, and it will be very hard ; and to 
preserve it from vermin, you may mix a little 
powder of aloes with it. 

3684. Composition for Taking Moulds 
of Medals, &c. Melt together equal parts 
of spermaceti, stearine or hard tallow, and 
white wax. Or : Mix together by melting, f 
pound black resin, 5 pound hard tallow, and 
6 ounces bees' wax. This last is more adapted 
for coarse work, such as architectm-al orna- 
ments, &c., and is poured on the object to be 
copied (previously oiled) in a melted state. 
Articles in piaster of Paris must be first 
soaked in water, observing that none remains 
on the surface so as to interfere with the de- 
sign. 

3685. To Make and Use Elastic 
Moulding. The process patented by Mr. 
Parks for taking a mould of any kind of model 
in one piece, is excellently adapted for the 
electrotypist. The material is composed of 
glue and molasses. 12 pounds glue are steeped 
for several hom-s in as much water as will 
moisten it thoroughly ; this is put into a me- 
tallic vessel, which is placed in a hot bath of 
boihng water. When the glue falls into a 
fluid state, 3 pounds of molasses are added, 
and the whole is well mixed by stirring. 
Suppose, now, that the mould of a'^small bust 
is wanted, a cylindrical vessel is chosen so 
deep that the bust may stand in it an iach or 



so under the edge. The inside of this vessel 
is oiled, a piece of stout paper is pasted on 
the bottom of the bust to prevent the fluid 
mixture from going inside, and if it is com- 
posed of plaster, sand is put inside to prevent 
it from floating. It is next completely 
drenched in oU and placed upright in the ves- 
sel. This done, the melted mixture of glue 
and molasses is poured in till the bust is sub- 
merged to the depth of an inch. The whole 
must stand for at least 24 hours, till it is per- 
fectly cool throughout — after which it is taken 
out by inverting the vessel upon a table, when, 
of course, the bottom of the bust is presented 
bare. The mould is now cut by means of a 
sharp knife, from the bottom up the back of 
the bust to the front of the head. It is next 
held open by the operator, when an assistant 
lifts out the bust and the mould is allowed to 
re-close. Apiece of brown paper is tied round 
it to keep it firm. The operator has now a 
complete mould of the bust in one piece; but 
he cannot treat it hke wax moulds, as its sub- 
stance is soluble in water, and would be de- 
stroyed if put into the solution. A mixture 
of wax and resin, with occasionally a little 
suet, is melted and allowed to stand till it is 
on the point of setting, when it is poured 
carefuUy into the mould and left to cool. The 
mould is then untied and opened up as before ; 
the wax bust is taken out, and the mould 
may be tied up for other casts. Besides wax 
and resin, there are several other mixtures 
used — deer's fat is preferable to common suet, 
stearine, etc. The object is to get a mixture 
that takes a good cast and becomes solid at a 
heat less than that which would melt the 
mould. 

3686. To Take Moulds of Figures. 
If the model or figure be composed of plaster 
of Paris, a mould is often taken in copper by 
deposition. The figure is saturated with wax 
{see Xo. 3688), and copper deposited upon it 
sufficiently thick to bear handUng without 
damage when taken from the model. The 
figure with the copper deposit is carefully 
sawn in two, and then boiled in water, by 
which the plaster is softened and easily sepa- 
rated from the copper, which now serves as 
the mould in which the deposit is to be made. 
It is prepared in the same way as we have de- 
scribed for depositing in copper moulds. (See 
Xo. 3672.) When the deposit is made suffi- 
ciently thick, the copper mould is peeled off, 
and the two halves of the figure soldered to- 
gether. The copper moulds which are de- 
posited upon the wax models taken in the 
elastic moulding are often treated in the same 
manner; but more generally these moulds 
are used for depositing silver or gold into 
them, to obtain fac-similes of the object in 
these metals, in which case the copper moulds 
are dissolved off by acids. 

3687. To Coat Figures with Copper. 
When plaster busts or figures are wanted in 
copper, the usual way is to prepare the figure 
with wax (see Xo. 3688) and to coat it over 
with a thin deposit of copper, letting the cop- 
per remain. Some operators, when it can be 
done, remove the plaster and wash over the 
inside with an alloy of tin and lead melted. 
In this case the copper must previously be 
cleaned by washing first in a solution of pot- 
ash, and then with chloride of zinc. The lat- 



ELECTROT YF IX G . 



339 



ter mode will cause the alloy to adhere to the 
copper and gire it strength. In either of 
these cases the deposit must not be very thick, 
or it will throw the figures out of proportion, 
such as the features of a bust, etc. Any 
slight roughness of deposit may be easily 
smoothed down by means of fine emery or 
glass paper. (Sce^Xo. 1935.) 

3688. To Prepare a Plaster Cast for 
Electrotjrping. First dry the plaster cast 
in the oven thoroughly, then get equal parts 
of bees' wax and common resin, melt them 
together, and boil the cast until it will not 
absorb any more ; when cold, get some good 
black lead and cover the cast entirely, not 
thick, but a bright surface. (See Xo. 3389.) 
3689. To Prepare Non-Metallic 
Moulds to Receive Deposit. TTere any 
of the plaster or wax moulds, described above, 
attached to the zinc and immersed in the cop- 
per solution in the same manner as described 
in Xo. 3369, no deposit would be obtained, 
because neither the plaster nor the wax is a 
conductor of electricity. Some substance 
must now be applied to the surface in order 
to give it conducting power. There are seve- 
ral ways of communicating this property, but 
the best and most simple for the articles under 
consideration is to apply common black lead 
(carburet of iron) in the following manner: 
A copper wire is put round the edge of the 
medal, or, if wax moulds are used, a thin slip 
of copper may be inserted into the edge of 
the mould — or, being slightly heated and laid 
upon the back, the two wUl adhere. A fine 
brush is now taken (a small hat brush is very 
suitable) and dipped into fine black lead, and 
brushed over the surface of the metal. The 
brushing is to be continued until all the face 
round to the wire upon the edge, or slip of 
copper forming connection, has a complete 
metallic lustre. A bright polish is neces- 
sary to obtain a quick and good deposit. 
In brushing on the black lead, care should 
be taken not to allow any to go upon the 
back or beyond the copper connection, or the 
deposit will follow it, and so cause a loss of 
copper, and make the mould more difficult to 
separate from the deposit ; being, as it were, 
incased. When the face of the mould is 
properly black-leaded, the copper wire con- 
nected with it is attached to the zinc plate in 
the porous cell, and the mould immersed in 
the copper solution ; the deposit will immedi- 
ately begin upon the copper connection, and 
will soon spread over every part, completely 
covering the black-lead surface. AVTien the 
deposit is considered sufficiently thick for re- 
moving — which, in ordinary circumstances, 
will require from 1 to 3 days — the medal is 
taken out of the solution, and washed in cold 
water, and the connection is taken off. If 
the deposit has not gone far over the edge of 
the mould, the two may be separated by a 
gentle pull; if otherwise, the superfluous 
deposit must be eased off, and if care be taken 
the wax may be fit to use over again; but 
when the mould is plaster of Paris, however 
well it may be saturated with was, it is sel- 
dom in a condition to use again. If the 
plaster mould be large and thick, it is advisa- 
ble to coat the back with wax or tallow, 
which is done by brushing it over with either 
substance in a melted state ; the mould, being 



cold, will not absorb the wax or tallow ; hence 
it may be recovered again. The sulphate of 
copper possesses so penetrating a quality that 
if the slightest imperfection occurs in the 
saturation of the mould by wax, the solution 
will penetrate through it, and the copper 
will be deposited upon the face of the object 
adhering to the plaster, giving to the metal 
a rough, matted appearance, and seriously in- 
juring it. 

3690. To Use Metal Moulds. The 
mould in fusible alloy does not require to be 
black-leaded, but the surface to be electro- 
typed must be prepared with turpentine, &c., 
(see Xo. 3673), and the back and edge must 
be protected l3y a coating of wax or other 
non-conducting material ; it may be connect- 
ed with the zinc pole by putting a wire round 
its edge previous to laying on the non-con- 
ducting substance, such as tallow or wax, 
which should also cover the wire. Or a slip 
of copper or wire may be laid upon the back, 
and fastened by a drop or two of sealing-wax; 
the back is then coated, but care must be 
taken that the wax does not get between the 
connection and the medal, which will prevent 
deposit. The deposit on this mould goes on 
instantaneously. TVhen sufficiently thick, it 
may be taken off in the same manner as from 
the wax mould. These moulds may be used 
several times, if care be taken not to heat 
them, as they easily melt. The medals ob- 
tained from metallic moulds prepared with 
the turpentine solution have a bright surface, 
which is not liable to change easily, but if the 
mould has been prepared with oil or composed 
of wax or plaster, the metal will either be 
dark, or will very easily tarnish. For the 
means of preserving them by bronzing see 
Xos. 3771, cj'C. 

3691. Precautions on Putting the 
Moulds into a Solution. In putting 
moulds into the copper solution, the operator 
is often annoyed by small globules of air ad- 
hering to the surface, which either prevent 
the deposit taking place upon these parts, or, 
when they are very minute, permit the de- 
posit to grow over them — causing small 
hollows in the mould, which give a very ugly 
appearance to the face of the medal. To 
obviate this, give the mould, when newly put 
into the solution, two or three shakes, or give 
the wire attached to it, while the mould is in 
the solution, a smart tap with a key or knife, 
or anything convenient ; but the most certain 
means we have tried, is to moisten the sur- 
face with alcohol just previous to putting it 
into the copper solution. A little practice in 
these manipulations will soon enable the 
operator to avoid these annoyances. 

3692. Electrotyping" ^ on Large Ob- 
jects. "Wlien busts or figures, whether of 
wax or plaster of Paris, are to be coated with 
copper, with no other conducting surface than 
black-lead, it is attended with considerable 
difficulty to the inexperienced electrotyper. 
The deposit grows over all the prominent 
parts, leaving hollow places, such as armpits, 
neck, etc., without any deposit; and when 
once missed, it requires 3onsiderable manage- 
ment to get these parts coated, as the coated 
parts give a sufficient passage for the current 
of electricity. It is recommended by some 
electrotypists to take out the bust, and coat 



34=0 



ELECTRO PL A TING 



the parts deposited upon the was, to prevent 
any further deposit on them ; but this practice 
is not good, especially with plaster of Paris, 
for an electrotype ought never to be taken 
out till finished. Sometimes the resistance 
of the hollow parts is occasioned by the solu- 
tion becoming exhausted from its position in 
regard to the positive pole. In this case a 
change of position effects a remedy. It may 
be remarked that when a bust or any large 
surface having hollow parts upon it, is to be 
electrotyped, as many copper connections as 
possible ought to be made between these 
parts and the zinc of the battery. Let the 
connections with the hollow parts be made 
with the finest wire which can be had, 
and let the zinc plate in the cell have a 
large surface compared to the surface of the 
figure, and the battery be of considerable in- 
tensity; if attention is paid to these condi- 
tions, the most intricate figures and busts 
may be covered over in a few hours. Care 
has to be observed in taking off the connec- 
tions from the deposit, or the operator may 
tear off a portion of the deposit ; if the wires 
used are fine, they should be cut off close to 
the deposited surface. 

3693. To Coat Busts and Figures. 
Busts and figures, and other complicated 
works of art, which cannot be perfectly coated 
with black-lead, may be covered by a film of 
silver or gold, which serves as a conducting 
medium to the copper. This is effected by a 
solution of phosphorus in sulphuret of carbon. 
The solution of phosphorus is prepared by 
adding to each pound of that substance 15 
pounds bisulphuret of carbon, and then thor- 
oughly agitating the mixture ; this solution 
is applicable to various uses, and, amongst 
others, to obtaining deposits of metal upon 
non-metallic substances, either by combining 
it with the substances on which it is to be 
deposited, as in the case of wax, or by coating 
the surface thereof. Any of the known pre- 
parations of wax may be treated in this way, 
but the one preferred is composed of from 6 
to 8 ounces of the solution, 5 pounds wax, and 
5 pounds deer's fat, melted together at a low 
heat, on account of the inflammable nature of 
the phosphorus. The composition thus ob- 
tained is acted upon by an electrotyping solu- 
tion as readily as if it were coated with the 
black-lead. 

3694. To Gild or Silver-Plate Flow- 
ers, &c. If the solution of phosphorus {see 
No. 3693) is to be applied to the surface of the 
article, an addition is made to it of 1 pound 
wax or tallow, 1 pint spirits of turpentine, 
and 2 ounces pure India-rubber (dissolved 
with 1 pound asphalt, in bisulphm-et of car- 
bon), for every pound phosphorus contained 
in the solution. The wax and tallow being 
first melted, the solution of India-rubber and 
asphalt is stirred in ; then the turpentine, and 
after that the solution of phosphorus is added. 
The solution prepared in this manner is ap- 
plied to the surfaces of non-metallic sub- 
stances, such as wood, flowers, etc., by im- 
mersion or brushing ; the article is then im- 
mersed in a dilute solution of nitrate of silver 
or chloride of gold ; in a few minutes the sur- 
face is covered with a fine film of metal, 
sufficient to ensure a deposit of any required 
thickness on the article being connected with 



any of the electrical apparatus at present em- 
ployed for coating articles with metal. The 
solution intended to be used is prepared by 
dissolving 4 ounces silver in nitric acid, and 
afterwards diluting the same with 12 gallons 
water ; the gold solution is formed by dissolv- 
ing 1 ounce gold in nitro-muriatic acid (aqua 
regia), and then diluting it with 10 gallons 
water. The solutions of silver and gold, pre- 
pared as above, will last for a long time, and 
serve for a great many articles. TVhen it is 
convenient it is best to use both solutions. 
The connecting wire should first be attached 
to the article to be coated, before being dipped 
into the phosphorus solution, but connected 
at such parts as will not hurt the appearance 
of the object by leaving a mark when it is 
taken off. Cjre should be taken not to touch 
the article with the hands after it is dipped 
into the solution. The object supported by 
the connections is immersed in the phosphorus 
solution, where it remains for two or three 
minutes. When taken out it is dipped into 
the silver solution, and, as soon as the surface 
becomes black, having the appearance of a 
piece of black china, it is to be dipped several 
times in distilled water, and then immersed 
in the solution of gold about three minutes ; 
the surface takes a bronze tinge by the re- 
duction of the gold. It is next washed in 
distilled water by merely dipping, not by 
throwing water upon it. The wire connection 
is now attached to the zinc of the battery, 
and then the article put into the copper solu- 
tion, and in a few minutes the article is coated 
over with a deposit of copper. A thin copper 
surface may tlius be given to small busts or 
figures without sensibly distorting the features. 
3695. Electrotyping on "Wood. Dip 
the wood in melted wax, then brush over 
with black-lead until polished ; insert a wire of 
copper, and see that it is also covered with the 
plumbago, and in contact with that already 
on the wood; now attach to the pole of the 
battery, and immerse in the solution of sul- 
phate of copper. The battery should not be 
too strong. 



lip leCtrOplating. The foregoing 
I i matter refers to electrotyping, that is, 
copper-coating, by galvanism. Electroplating, 
or coating with silver, is conducted in a simi- 
lar manner to electrotyping as far as general 
principles and manipulation are concerned, 
but differs in the solutions used, as well as in 
the preparation of the objects to be electro- 
plated. 

3697. To Prepare Cyanide of Silver. 
First dissolve 1 ounce pure silver in 2 ounces 
nitric acid and 2 ounces hot water, after 
which further dilute with 1 quart hot water. 
The propriety of diluting the nitrate of silver 
before precipitating by the cyanide of po- 
tassium arises from the fact that the salts of 
potash and soda (such as the nitrates, chlor- 
ides, and sulphates), when in strong solution, 
dissolve small quantities of the silver salt, 
and thus cause a loss, which is prevented by 
previous dilution with water. The nitric acid 
used must be free from hydrochloric (muri- 
atic) acid; to a small quantity of the acid add 
a few drops of solution of nitrate of silver ) 



ELECT BOPLA TING. 



34.1 



if it gives a milky white precipitate, it con- 
tains muriatic acid, and should be rejected. 
Then dissolve 5 ounces cyanide of potassium 
in 1 quart water. Add this by degrees to the 
silver solution until the whole of the silver is 
precipitated, which may be tested thus : Stir 
the mixture and allow it to settle; then drop 
into the clear liquid a very smaH quantity of 
the second preparation, from the end of a glass 
rod ; if the clear liquid is rendered turbid, it 
is a proof that the whole of the silver is not 
separated ; but if the liquid remains un- 
changed, it shows that the silver is entirely 
separated. The clear liquid is then to be 
poured oflp, and the precipitate, which is cyan- 
ide of silver, washed at least 4 times in hot 
water, dried and bottled for use. The use 
and handling of cyanide of potassium requires 
great caution, as 11 grains of it are sufficient 
to kill a grown person. The fumes thrown 
off while dissolving the silver in nitric acid 
are also highly deleterious, and must not be 
inhaled ; it is better, therefore, not to dissolve 
silver in a close room. 

3698. To Make Silver Solution. The 
solution of silver used for plating consists of 
cyanide of silver dissolved in potassium, add- 
ing a solution of cyanide of potassium to the 
cyanide of silver until it is all dissolved. The 
resulting solution constitutes the cyanide of 
potassiiTm and silver, and forms the plating 
solution. It ought to be filtered previous to 
using, as there is always formed a black sedi- 
ment, composed of iron, silver, and cyanogen, 
which, if left in the solution, would fall upon 
the surface of the article receiving the deposit, 
and make it rough. The sediment, however, 
must not be thrown away, as it contains sil- 
ver. The cyanide of potassium, used to dis- 
solve the cyanide of silver, may be so diluted 
that the plating solution, when formed, shall 
contain 1 ounce of silver in the gallon ; of 
course the proportion of silver may be larger 
or smaller, but that given is best for plating. 
In dissolving 100 ounces of silver, the follow- 
ing proportions of each ingredient are those 
which have been found in practice to be the 
best. Take 7 pounds of the best nitric acid, 
and 61 ounces of cyanide of potassium, of the 
average quality; this quantity will precipitate 
the 100 ounces of silver dissolved in the acid 
solution. After this is washed, take 62 oun- 
ces more of cyanide of potassium, the solution 
of which will dissolve the precipitate; this 
being done, the plating solution is then form- 
ed. Of com'se these proportions will vary 
according to the difference in the quality of 
the materials ; but they will serve to give an 
idea of the cost of the silver solution prepared 
in this manner. 

3699. To Dissolve Cyanide of Silver 
in Yellow Prussiate of Potash. Dissolve 
the cyanide of silver by yellow prussiate of 
potash (ferrocyanide of potassium), 3 pounds 
of which are required to dissolve 1 ounce of 
silver. This forms an excellent plating solu- 
tion, and yields a beautiful surface of silver. 
It must have a weak battery power, and con- 
sequently the silver is very soft. The posi- 
tive electrode does not dissolve in this solution ; 
there is formed upon its surface a white scaly 
crust, which drops off and falls to the bottom; 
and the solution soon becomes exhausted of 
silver, and wiU need to be renewed. 



3700. Solution Made with Oxide of 
Silver. A good silver solution for electro- 
plating white metal and brass is made by dis- 
solving 1 part oxide of silver in 8 parts cyanide 
of potassium and 64 parts warm water. Ox- 
ide of silver is made by precipitating a solu- 
tion of the nitrate by a dissolved alkali like 
potassa or baryta. 

3701. To' Make Silver Solution by 
the Battery. The best and cheapest 
method of making up the silver solution is by 
the battery, which saves all expense of acids 
and the labor of precipitation. To prepare a 
silver solution which is intended to have an 
ounce of silver to the gallon, dissolve 123 
ounces cyanide of potassium in 100 gallons 
water; get one or two flat porous vessels, 
submerge them in this solution to within half 
an inch of the rim, and fill them to the same 
height with the solution ; in these porous 
vessels place small plates or sheets of iron or 
copper, and connect them with the zinc pole 
of a battery; in the solution outside the 
shallow vessels place a sheet or sheets of 
silver connected with the silver pole of the 
battery. This arrangement being made at 
night, and the power employed being a 
Smee's battery of 6 cells, the zincs 7 inches 
square, it will be found in the morning 
that there will be dissolved 60 to 80 ounces 
of silver from the sheets. The solution is now 
ready for use; and by observing that the 
articles to be plated have less surface than 
the silver plate forming the positive electrode, 
for the first two days, the solution will then 
have the proper quantity of silver in it. Oc- 
casionally a little silver is found in the 
porous cell; it is therefore not advisable to 
throw away the solution in them without 
first testing it for silver, which is done by 
adding a little muriatic acid to it. The ama- 
teur electrotypist may, from this description, 
make-up a small quantity of solution for sil- 
vering his medals or figures. For example, a 
half-ounce of silver to the gallon of solution 
will do very well; a small quantity may be 
prepared in little more than an hour. As the 
cyanide of potassium dissolves silver without 
the aid of a battery, a plating liquor may be 
formed by merely allowing a piece of silver to 
steep in this solution for a few days; but this 
is tedious and uncertain, although for small 
operations, and where porous vessels are not 
convenient, it will serve the purpose. 

3702. To Recover Silver from Solu- 
tion. TThen a silver solution gets out of 
order, and cannot be rendered fit for use 
again, the silver may be recovered by adding 
to the solution any acid that will neutralize 
the alkali ; if nitric or sulphuric acid be used, 
the silver precipitates as cyanide, but if hydro- 
chloric acid be used, the silver will be pre- 
cipitated as a chloride; in either case the 
solution should be diluted, or a portion of the 
precipitate will be redissolved. The precipi- 
tate is allowed to deposit, the clear liquor de- 
canted, and the vessel filled with wate^ to 
wash the precipitate, which is afterwards col- 
lected upon a filter and dried, and then mixed 
with twice its weight of carbonate of potash, 
and fused in a Hessian crucible for 15 min- 
utes, or until the fused fluid ceases to ef 
fervesce. On removing the crucible, ar-l 
pouring the whole into an iron ladle, when 



34.2 



ELECT BOPLA TIX G , 



cool the silver will be found in the metallic 
state at the bottom of the ladle. In these 
operations, when pouring the acid into the 
cyanide solution, great care must be taken 
not to inhale the fumes given off, which are 
very abundant and poisonous. The operation 
should be done in the open air, and even then 
it is bad. Instead of throwing down the 
silver by an acid, it is better to evaporate the 
solution to dryness, and to fuse the product 
as described ; in which case the cyanide is an 
excellent reducing flux, requiring no addition 
of carbonate of potash, and saves the necessity 
of evolving poisonous fumes. 

3703. Test for Free Cyanide of Po- 
tassium in Solutions. If we dissolve a 
small quantity of sulphate of copper and add 
to it an excess of ammonia, there is produced 
a deep blue color. Cyanide of potassium will 
destroy the blue color, in a fixed chemical 
proportion. To obtain this proportion, take 
ten grains of pure cyanide of potassium and 
dissolve in water; then take a certain quan- 
tity, say 100 grains, of sulphate of copper, and 
convert it into ammoniuret, the whole meas- 
uring a given quantity, and pour from an 
alkalimeter this blue liquor into the cyanide 
of potassium till it ceases to destroy the color, 
then mark the number of graduations required, 
and that amount of copper solution will rep- 
resent 10 grains cyanide of potassium — a 
quantitative test wiU thus be got for the full 
cyanide of potassium in the solution, and 
should be used as foUows : Say that the color 
of 60 graduations of the blue solution was de- 
stroyed by the 10 grains of cyanide of potas- 
sium ; then, to test the quantity of free cyanide 
of potassium in the plating solution, take 60 
graduations of the blue liquor in any conve- 
nient vessel, and add to it from an alkalimeter 
the plating solution, till the color of the blue 
liquor is destroyed, then note the quantity 
which contains 10 grains free cyanide, from 
which the quantity in the whole solution may 
be calculated. 

3704. Test for the ftuantity of Free 
Cyanide of Potassium in Solutions. It 
has been already mentioned that the cyanide 
of silver, as it forms upon the surface of the 
silver plate, is dissolved by the cyanide of 
potassium. This renders it necessary to have 
always in the solution free cyanide of po- 
tassium. "Were we to use the pure crystalline 
salt of cyanide of potassium and silver, dis- 
solved in water, without any free cyanide of 
potassium, we should not obtain a deposit be- 
yond a momentary blush, as the silver plate 
or electrode would get an instantaneous coat- 
ing of cyanide of silver, and this not being 
dissolved, the current would stop. The 
(quantity of free cyanide of potassium required 
in the solution varies according to the 
amount of silver that is present, and the 
rapidity of the deposition. If there be too 
little of it, the deposit will go on slowly ; if 
there be too much, the silver plate will be dis- 
solved in greater proportion than the quantity 
deposited, and the solution wUl consequently 
get stronger. The proportion we have found 
best is about half by weight of free cyanide of 
potassium to the quantity of silver in solu- 
tion ; thus, if the solution contains 2 ounces 
of silver to the gallon, it should have 1 ounce 
of free cyanide of potassium per gallon. This 



is known by taking some nitrate of silver, 
dissolving it in distilled water and placing it 
in a common alkalimeter (see Xo. 82), gradu- 
ated into 100 parts. The proportion of the 
nitrate of silver in the solution is to be such 
that every two graduations of the solution 
should contain 1 grain. A given quantity of 
the plating solution is now taken — say 1 
ounce by measure, and the test solution of 
nitrate oj silver is added to it by degrees, so 
long as the precipitate formed is redissolved. 
"WTien this ceases the number of graduations 
is then noted, and the following equation 
gives the quantity of free cyanide. Every 
175 nitrate of silver are equal to 130 cyanide 
of potassium in solution. Suppose 20 gradu- 
ations were taken, equal to 10 grains nitrate 

01 silver, then 175 : 130 : : 10 : 7.4 grains free 
cyanide of potassium. This, multiplied by 
IGO, the number of fluid ounces per gallon, 
will make about 2h ounces. TVe have taken 

2 graduations to 1 graiu of nitrate of silver, 
that the solution may be considerably dilute 
and less liable to error. The following table 
is calculated at a half grain nitrate of silver to 
the graduation, and will be a guide to the 
student or workman. The quantity of solu- 
tion tested is 1 ounce by measure. 



Number of 
graduations used. 


Free cyanide per gallon. 


1 


oz. 


dwt. 


gr. 





2 


13 


2 





5 


3 


3 





7 


16 


4 





10 


6 


5 





12 


19 


6 





15 


9 


7 





17 


22 


8 







13 


9 




3 


1 


10 




5 


12 


11 




8 


5 


12 




10 


19 


13 




13 


8 


14 




15 


22 


15 




18 


11 


16 


2 


1 


2 


17 


2 


3 


14 


18 


2 


6 


2 


19 


2 


8 


11 


20 


2 


11 1 1 



3705. To Cleanse Articles for Electro- 
plating. Articles that are to be plated are 
first boiled in an alkaline lye^ to free them from 
grease, then washed from the ]ye, and dipped 
into dilute nitric acid, which removes any 
oxide that may be formed upon the surface ; 
they are afterwards brushed over with a hard 
brush and fine sand. (See JN"o. 3381.) The 
alkaline lye should be in a caustic state, which 
is easily effected by boihng the carbonated 
alkali with slacked lime, until, on the addition 
of a little acid to a small drop of the solution, 
no effervescence occurs. (SeeXo. 101.) The 
lime is then allowed to settle, and the clear 
liquor is fit for use. The lye should have 
about ^ pound vsoda-ash, or pearl-ash, to the 
gallon of water. The nitric acid, into which 
the article is dipped, may be diluted to such 
an extent that it will merely act upon the 
metal. Any old acid will do for this purpose. 
In large factories the acid used for dipping 



ELECTBOPLA TING. 



343 



"before plating is generally afterwards em- 
ployed for the above purpose of cleaning, 

3706. To Prepare Articles for the 
Decomposing Cell. The article being thor- 
oughly cleaned and dried, has a copper wire 
attached to it, either by twisting it round the 
article or putting it through any open part of 
it, to maintain it in suspension. It is then 
dipped into nitric acid as quickly as possible, 
and washed through water, and then immersed 
in the decomposing cell containing silver solu- 
tion, suspending it by the wire which con- 
nects with the zinc pole of the battery. The 
nitric acid generally used and found best for 
dipping has a specific gravity 1.518, and con- 
tains 10 per cent, sulphuric acid. The article , 
is instantaneously coated with silver, and 
ought to be taken out after a few seconds and 
well brushed. On a large scale, brushes of 
brass wire attached to a lathe are used for this 
purpose ; but a hard hair brush with a little 
fine sand will do for small work. This brush- 
ing is used in case any particle of foreign 
matter may be still on the surface. It is then 
replaced in the solution, and in the course of 
a few hours a coating of the thickness of 
tissue paper is deposited on it, having the 
beautiful matted appearance of dead silver. 
Any thickness of silver may be given to a 
plate by continuing the operation a proper 
length of time. IJ to la ounces of silver to 
the square foot of surface will give an excel- 
lent plate about the thickness of ordinary 
writing paper. We may remark that, in de- 
positing silver from the solution, a weak 
battery may be used; though when the bat- 
tery Is weak the silver deposited is soft, but if 
used as strong as the solution will allow, the 
silver will be equal in hardness to rolled or 
hammered silver. If the battery is stronger 
than the solution will stand, or the article 
very small compared to the size of the plate 
of silver forming the positive electrode, the 
silver will be deposited as a powder. Gas 
should never be seen escaping from either 
pole; and the smface of the article should 
always correspond as nearly as possible with 
that of the positive electrode, otherwise the 
deposit runs the risk of not l3eing good ; it j 
requires more care, and the solution is apt to j 
be altered in strength, because if the positive 
electrode be large compared with the negative, 
the solution will become stronger in silver, 
while if smaller in proportion the solution 
will become exhausted of silver. 

3707. To Silver-plate Large Articles I 
(such as those plated in factories), it is not j 
always sufficient to dip them in nitric acid ; i 
wash and immerse them in the solution, in 
order to effect a perfect adhesion of the two 
metals. To secure this, a small portion of 
quicksilver is dissolved in nitric acid, and a 
little of this solution is added to water, in 
sufficient quantity to enable it to give a white 
silvery tint to a piece of copper when dipped 
into it; the article then, whether made of 
copper, brass, or German silver, after being 
dipped in the nitric acid and washed, is dip- 
ped into the nitrate of mercury solution till 
the surface is white ; it is then well washed j 
by plunging it into two separate vessels con- '• 
taining clean water, and finally put into the i 
plating solution. This secures perfect adhe- 1 
sion of the metals. One ounce of quicksilver I 



thus dissolved will do for a long time, though 
the liquor is used every day. When the 
mercury in this solution is exhausted, it is 
liable to turn the article black upon being 
dipped into it; this must be avoided, as in 
that case it also causes the deposited metal to 
strip off. 

3708. To Preserve the Dead, Matted 
Appearance of Silver after Electropla- 
ting. If it is desired to preserve the surface 
in this condition, the article must be taken 
out of the electroplating "solution, care being 
taken not to touch it by the hand, and im- 
mersed in boiling distilled water for a few 
minutes. On being withdrawn, sufficient heat 
has been imparted to the metal to dry it in- 
stantly. If it is a medal, it ought to be put 
in an air-tight frame immediately, or if a 
figure, it may be at once placed under a glass 
shade, as a very few days' exposure to the air 
tarnishes it, by the formation of sulphuret of 
silver, especially in a room where there is fire 
or gas. 

3709. To Remove the Chalky Ap- 
pearance of Silver after Plating. When 
articles are taken out of the electroplating 
solution they are swiUed in water, and then 
put into boiling water. They are afterwards 
put into hot sawdust, which dries them per- 
fectly. Their color is chalk- white. They are 
generally weighed before being scratch- 
brushed; that is, brushed with fine wire 
brushes {see Xos. 3381 and 3706), and old ale- 
beer, or water containing in solution a little 
gum, glue, or sugar, but the amateur may 
use a hard hair brush. It may be afterwards 
burnished according to the usual method of 
burnishing, by rubbing the surface with con- 
siderable pressure with polished steel or the 
mineral termed bloodstone. Although this 
operation does not displace any of the silver, 
still, in taking off the chalky appearance, 
there is a slight loss of weight. The appear- 
ance after scratching is that of bright metallic 
silver. 

3710. To Increase the Brightness of 
the Deposit. A little sulphuret of carbon 
added to the plating solution prevents the 
chalky appearance, and gives the deposit the 
appearance of metallic silver; the reaction 
which takes place in this mixture is not yet 
understood. The best method of applying the 
sulphuret of carbon is to put one or two oun- 
ces into a large bottle, then fill it with strong 
silver solution having an excess of cyanide of 
potassium, and let it repose for several days, 
shaking it occasionally. A little of this sil- 
ver solution is added, as required, to this pla- 
ting solution, which wiU give the articles plated 
the same appearance as if scratched. It is 
also found that the presence of sulphuret of 
carbon prevents the solution from going out 
of order ; indeed, we have seen a solution that 
has been constantly working from two to 
three years, while, generally, they were sub- 
ject to go out of order for a time, in less than 
one year — although, after standing a time, 
they would recover — but these are curious re- 
actions not yet investigated. 

3711. To Insure Success in the Elec- 
troplating Process. In order to insure 
success in silver-plating upon metals and me • 
tallic alloys, two solutions of silver are re- 
quisite ; the fijst, to whiten or fix the silver 



34.4: 



ELECTBOPLATING. 



to such metals as iron, steel, britarmia metal, 
and Grerman silver ; the second, to finisli the 
work, as any amount of pm-e silver can be de- 
posited from the second solution. 

3712. First, or Wliitenmg' Solution. 
Dissolve 2-J troy pounds cyanide of potassium, 
S ounces carbonate of soda, and 5 ounces 
cyanide of silver in 1 gallon rain or distilled 
■water. This solution should be used Tvith a 
compound battery of 3 to 10 pairs, according 
to the size of the work to be platsd. The use 
of this solution will insure the adhesion of sil- 
ver to all kinds of brass, bronze, type metal, 
&c., -vrithout employing mercury, the frequent 
Tise of which is injurious to the health of the 
operator. 

3713. Second, or Finisliing Solution. 
Dissolve 4i troy ounces cyanide of potassium, 
and li ounces cyanide of silver, in 1 gallon 
rain or distilled water. This solution should 
be used with one large cell of Smee's battery, 
observing that the silver plate is placed as j 
near the surface of the articles to be plated as 
possible. I 

3714. Boettger's Test for the Silver | 
on SHver-Plated Metals. The test fluid 
consists of a saturated solution of bichromate 
of potassa in nitric acid, specific gravity 1.2. 
Any dirt or varnish having been removed by 
strong alcohol from the metallic surface to be 
tested, a drop of the test fluid is applied to it 
by means of a glass rod, and immediately 
afterwards washed off with some cold water. 
If pure silver is present (as regards silver 
coins, these are left in contact with the test 
fluid for a greater length of time), there will 
appear clearly a blood-red colored mark 
(chromate of silver). Upon German silver 
the test liquid appears brown, but after wash- 
ing with water the blood-red colored mark 
does not appear ; the so-called britannia-metal 
Is colored black ; on platinum no action is vis- 
ible ; metallic surfaces coated with an amal- 
gam of mercury yield a reddish speck, which, 
however, is entirely washed off by water ; on 
lead and bismuth the test liquid forms a yel- 
low-colored precipitate ; zinc and tin are 
both strongly acted upon by this test liquid, 
which, as regards the former metal, is en- 
tirely removed by water, while, as regards 
the latter, the test hquid is colored brown- 
ish, and addition of water produces a yeUow 
precipitate which somewhat adheres tc the 
tin. 

3715. Plating" on Iron or Steel. Take 
2 quarts rain water, dissolve 2 pounds cyanide 
of potassium, and filter. In order to plate 
steel or iron, dip it into pure sulphuric acid 
for one minute, then clean with pumice stone, 
and brush; rinse, and hang in solution of 
cyanide of potassium for tbree minutes, or 
until it becomes white; then hang in silver 
solution until plated heavy enough. {See Xo. 
3698.) 

3716. Taking Silver from Copper, 
Etc. First by stripping or dissolving it off; 
this is done by putting into a stoneware or 
copper pan some strong sulphuric acid (vit- 
riol), to which a little nitrate of potassa is 
added-, the article is laid into this solution, 
which will dissolve the silver without materi- 
ally affecting the copper; nitrate of potassa 
is added by degrees, as occasion requires; and 
if the action is slow a little heat is applied to 



the vessel. The silver being removed, the 
article is well washed and then passed through 
the potash solution, and finished for plating. 
IVTien the sulphuric acid becomes saturated 
with silver it is diluted, and the silver is pre- 
cipitated by a solution of common salt ; the 
chloride of silver formed is collected and fused 
in a crucible with carbonate of potash, when 
the silver is obtained in a metallic state, as a 
knob or button. The crucible should not be 
over two-thirds full, and should be kept in fu- 
sion till effervescence ceases. The crucible is 
then removed from the fire, and, when cool, it 
is broken. (See Xo. 3702.) The article thus 
stripped by acids often shows a little rough- 
ness, not from the effects of the acid, but be- 
cause the copper under the silver has not 
been polished ; it is therefore a necessary 
practice in the electroplating factories to pol- 
ish the articles before plating. This is done 
by means of a circular brush, more or less 
hard as required, fixed upon a lathe, and a thin 
paste made of oil and pumice-stone ground as 
fine as flour. By this process the surface of 
any article can be smoothed and polished; 
but a little experience is required to ensure 
success, and enable the operator to polish the 
surface equally without leaving brush marks. 
After this the article must be cleaned in pot- 
ash before it is plated. 

3717. To Recover Silver from Copper. 
Instead of stripping off the silver by means 
of acid, as ia i^o. 3716, it is a more common 
and preferable mode to brush off the silver 
by the operation just described. In this case 
the brushings must be collected, dried, and 
burned; this may be done in an iron pan, 
keeping it at a red heat untilaU carbonaceous 
matters are consumed ; the remainder is fused 
with carbonate of soda or potash, when the 
silver is obtained, in combination with a little 
copper. 

3718. Cyanide of Silver and Potas- 
sium, its Decomposition During the 
Plating Process. The silver salt in the 
plating solution is a true double salt, being, 
as already described, a compound of 1 equi- 
valent of cyanide of silver, and 1 of cyanide of 
potassium — two distinct salts. In the decom- 
position of the silver solution by the electric 
current, the former, cyanide of silver, is alone 
affected; the silver is deposited, and the 
cyanogen passes to the positive plate or elec- 
trode. The cyanide of potassium is therefore 
set at liberty upon the surface of the article 
receiviag the silver deposit, and its solution, 
being specifically lighter than the general 
mass of the plating solution, rises to the top ; 
this causes a current to take place along the 
face of the article being plated. If the article 
has a flat surface, suppose that of a waiter or 
tray, upon which a prominence exists, as a 
mounting round the edge, it will cause lines 
and ridges from the bottom to the top. 
Xewly formed solutions are most subject to 
produce this annoyance. 

3719. Dead"^ SHveriag for Medals. 
The perfect smoothness which a medal gene- 
rally possesses on the surface, renders it very 
difficult to obtain a coating of dead silver 
upon it, having the beautiful silky lustre 
which characterizes that kind of work, except 
by giving it a very thick coating of silver, 
which takes away the sharpness of the im- 



ELECTRO-GILDING. 



34=5 



pression. This dead appearance can be easily 
obtained by putting the medal, previous to 
silvering, in a solution of copper, and deposit- 
ing upon it, by means of a weak current, a 
mere blush of copper, which gives the face of 
the medal that beautiful crystalline richness 
that deposited copper is known to give. The 
medal is then to be washed from the copper 
solution, and immediately to be put into the 
silver solution. A very slight coating of sil- 
ver will suffice to give the dead frosty lustre so 
much admired, and in general so difficult to 
obtain. 

3720. To Recover Silver from Old 
JPlated Goods. Oil of vitriol, together with 
5 per cent, of nitrate of soda, is heated in a 
cast-iron boiler, or a stoneware pan, to 212° 
Fahr. The silver-plated clippings are placed 
in a sheet-iron bucket or cullender, which is 
fastened to a pulley that it may be moved 
about in the acid. As soon as the silver is 
removed, the cullender is raised, allowed to 
drain, then immersed in cold water and emp- 
tied, to be again used in the same manner. 
WTien the acid bath is fresh, the desilvering 
proceeds very rapidly, and even with heavy 
plated ware takes but a few minutes; with 
the gradual saturation of the bath more time 
is required, and it is readily perceived when 
the acid must be renewed. The small amount 
of acid solution adhering to the copper, pre- 
cipitates its silver when brought into the wa- 
ter. To obtain its complete removal, the 
clippings, when raised from the desilvering 
batli, and before immersion in water, may be 
dipped into a second bath prepared in the 
same manner, which is afterwards to be used 
in place of the first. The saturated bath, on 
coolmg, congeals to a crystalline semi-fluid 
mass of sulphate of copper and of soda. The 
silver is removed by chloride of sodium (com- 
mon salt) which is added in small portions at 
a time, while the solution is yet warm. The 
chloride of silver separates readily, and is 
washed and reduced in the usual manner. The 
acid solution contains but a very small por- 
tion of copper, hardly enough to pay for re- 
covering. 

3721. To Recover Silver from Cop- 
per. This process is apphed to recover the 
silver from the plated metal, which has been 
rolled down for buttons, toys, etc., without 
destroying any large portion of the copper. 
For this purpose, a dissolving solution is com- 
posed of 3 pounds oil of vitriol, 1^ ounces 
nitre, and 1 pound water. The plated metal 
is boiled in it till the silver is dissolved, and 
then the silver is recovered by throwing com- 
mon salt into the solution. (See Xo. 3214.) 

3722. Test Fluid for SHver-Plated 
Goods. For this purpose a testing fluid is 
prepared by adding pure nitric acid to pow- 
dered red chromate of potash, and mixing them 
in such a manner that a part of the latter 
remains in suspension, the whole being kept 
well stirred during the mixing. Equal parts 
by weight of each may be taken. The mtric 
must be qmte free from hydrochloric acid, and 
have the proper degree of concentration, be- 
ing neither too fuming nor too dilute ; it 
should have a specific gravity between 1.20 
and 1.25. When the mixture has been pre- 
pared for a few hours, and been stirred several 
timeS; the reddish- colored liquid is poured off 



from the residue and kept in a stoppered 
bottle. 
3723. To Test SUver-Plated Goods. 

The ordinary and very accurate method of 
testing of silver is foanded upon the insolu- 
bility of chloride of silver in dilute acids and 
in water. This otherwise satisfactory test is, 
however, difficult to carry out when an article 
is very thinly plated. A drop of the test 
liquid (see last receipt) is then brought in 
contact with the metal to be tested, and im-' 
mediately washed off again with water. If 
a visible blood-red spot remains, silver is 
present. This method requires only the fol- 
lowing precautions: The metallic surface 
must have been quite cleansed from grease or 
varnish with spirits of wine — water must be 
poured over the treated surface before judging 
of the color, as that of the testing fluid is 
altered by the metal, and the red precipitate 
is not distinctly visible until the colored 
liquid has been washed off. The red spot can 
afterwards be very easily removed with the 
finger. By this method the slightest trace of 
silver in an alloy may be ascertained. When 
an article is suspected to be only thinly plated, 
a very minute drop of the testing fluid should 
be used. With no other metal or alloy does 
this red spot, so characteristic of silver, ap- 
pear; in some cases the testing fluid only 
corrodes the smface of the metal, whilst in 
others colored precipitates are formed, which, 
however, cannot be confounded with those of 
silver. German silver brought into contact 
with the testing fluid affords no red spot after 
being washed. The spot will, however, have 
been strongly corroded. Britannia metal 
yields a black spot; zinc is strongly corroded; 
platinum is not attacked ; lead gives a yellow 
precipitate; tin is strongly affected by the 
fluid ; when the brownish-colored testing 
fluid is washed off, a yellow precipitate is per- 
ceived, which adheres tightly to the metal ; 
copper is strongly attacked, a tarnished sur- 
face of this metal is brightened by the action 
of the acid. 



Electro- Gilding. The opera- 
tion of gilding, or covering other met- 
als with a coating of gold by the battery, is 
performed in the same manner as electro- 
plating, with the exception of a few practical 
modifications. 

3725. To Prepare Chloride of Gold. 
Dissolve 1 part gold in 3 parts nitro-hydro- 
chloric acid (aqua regia); evaporate until 
vapors of chlorine begin to be disengaged, 
then set the solution aside to crystallize. 
Aqua regia consists of 1 part nitric acid and 
2 parts (both by measure) muriatic (hydro- 
chloric) acid. 

If aqua ammonia be added to a solution of 
gold in aqua regia, it precipitates a reddish- 
yeUow deposit, which may be collected, 
washed, and dried. This is the ammoniuret 
of gold, and must be handled and prepared 
with great caution, it being the fulminate of 
gold. 

3726. To Prepare a Solution of Gold. 
Add a solution of cyanide of potassium to a 
solution of chloride of gold (see Ko. 3725) 
until all the precipitate is redissolved ; but 
this gives chloride of potassium in the solu* 



34.6 



ELECTBO-GILDING. 



tion, which is not good. In the preparation 
of the solution by this means there are some 
interesting reactions. As the chloride of 
gold has always an excess of acid, the addi- 
tion of cyanide of potassium causes violent 
ejffervescence, and no precipitate of gold takes 
place until all the free acid is neutralized, 
which causes a considerable loss to the 
cyanide of potassium. There is always 
formed in this deposition a quantity of am- 
monia and carbonic acid, from the deposition 
of the cyanate of potash ; and if the chloride 
of gold be recently prepared, and hot, there is 
often formed some aurate of ammonia (ful- 
minate of gold), which precipitates with the 
■^anide of gold. Were this precipitate to be 
collected and dried, it would explode when 
slightly heated. By previously diluting the 
chloride of gold, or using it cold, this com- 
pound is not formed. After the free acid 
is neutralized by the potash, further addition 
of the cyanide of potassium precipitates the 
gold as cyanide of gold, having a light yellow 
color ; but as this is slightly soluble in am- 
monia and some of the alkaline salts, it is not 
advisable to wash the precipitate, lest there 
be a loss of gold. Cyanide of potassium is 
generally added until the precipitate is redis- 
solved ; consequently much impurity is formed 
in the solution, namely, nitrate and carbonate 
of potash with chloride of potassium and 
ammonia. JSTotwithstanding, this solution 
Works very well for a short time, and it is 
very good for operations on a small scale. 

3727. To Prepare Cyanide of Gold. 
Dissolve 1 ounce of fine gold in 28 penny- 
weights nitric acid and 2 ounces muriatic 
acid, and add 1 quart hot water. Precipitate 
with the second preparation used for cyanide 
of silver {see No. 3697), and proceed in the 
same manner. 

3728. To Prepare a Solution of Gold. 
Dissolve 4 troy ounces cyanide of potassium 
and 1 ounce cyanide of gold in 1 gallon rain 
or distilled water. This solution is to be used 
at about 90° Fahr., with a battery of at least 
two cells, Grold can be deposited, of various 
shades to suit the taste, by adding to the gold 
solution a small quantity of the cyanides of 
silver, copper, or zinc, and a few drops of 
hydrosulphuret of ammonia. 

3729. To Prepare a Gold Solution 
by the Battery Process. To prepare a 
gallon of gold solution, dissolve 4 ounces 
cyanide of potassium in 1 gallon water, and 
heat the solution to 150° Fahr.; now take a 
small porous cell and fill it with this cyanide 
solution, and place it inside the gallon of solu- 
tion ; into this cell is put a small plate of iron 
or copper, and attached by a wire to the zinc 
pole of a battery. A piece of gold is ])laced 
into the large solution, facing the plate in the 

Eorous cell, and attached to the silver of the 
attery. The whole is allowed to remain in 
action until the gold, which is to be taken out 
from time to time and weighed, has lost the 
quantity required in solution. By this means 
a solution of any strength can be made, ac- 
cording to the time allowed. The solution in 
the porous cell, unless the action has con- 
tinued long, will have no gold, and may be 
thrown away. Half an hour will suffice for a 
small quantity of solution — of course any 
quantity of solution may be made up by the 



same means. For all the operations of gilding 
by the cyanide solution, it must be heated to 
at least 130° Fahr. The articles to be gilt 
are cleaned in the way described for silver 
{see No. 3705), but are not dipped into nitric 
acid previous to being put into the gold solu- 
tion. 3 or four minutes is sufficient time to 
gild any small article. After the articles are 
cleaned and dried they are weighed, and, 
when gilt, they are weighed again; thus 
the quantity of gold deposited is ascer- 
tained. Any convenient means may be 
adopted for heating the solution. The one 
generally adopted is to put a stoneware pan 
containine: the solution into an iron or tin- 
plate vessel filled with water, which is kept 
at the boiling point either by being placed 
upon a hot plate or over gas. The hotter the 
solution the less battery power is required. 
Grenerally a battery of 3 or 4 cells is used for 
gilding, and the solution is kept at 130° to 
150° Fahr. But 1 cell will answer if the solu- 
is heated to 200°. 

3730. Process of Electro-Gilding. 
The process of gilding is generally performed 
upon silver articles. The method of proceed- 
ing is as follows : When the articles are 
cleaned as described in ~So. 3705, they are 
weighed, and well scratched with wire brush- 
es, which cleanse away any tarnish from the 
surface, and prevents the formation of air- 
bubbles. They are then kept m clean water 
until it is convenient to immerse them in the 
gold solution. One immersion is then given, 
which merely imparts a blush of gold ; they 
are taken out and again brushed ; they are 
then put back into the solution and kept 
there for 3 or 4 minutes, which will be suffi- 
cient if the solution and battery are in good 
condition ; but the length of time necessarily 
depends on these two conditions, which must 
be studied and regulated by the operator. 

3731. To Electro-Giid Iron, Tin, and 
Lead. Iron, tin, and lead are very difficult 
to gild direct ; they therefore generally have 
a thin coating of copper deposited upon them 
by the cyanide of copper solution {see Nos. 
3754 and 3755), and immediately put into the 
gilding solution, 

3732. Conditions Required in Electro- 
Gilding. The gilding solution generally 
contains from one-half to an ounce of gold in 
the gallon, but for covering small articles, 
such as medals, for tinging daguerreotypes, 
gilding rings, thimbles, etc., a weaker solution 
will do. The solution should be sufficient 
in quantity to gild the articles at once, so 
that it should not have to be done bit by bit ; 
for when there is a part in the solution and a 
part out, there will generally be a line mark 
at the point touching the surface of the solu- 
tion. The rapidity with which metals are 
acted upon at the surface line of the solution 
is remarkable. If the positive electrode is 
not wholly immersed in the solution, it will, 
in a short time, be cut through at the surface 
of the water, as if cut by a knife. This is 
also the case in silver, copper, and other solu- 
tions, 

3733. To Maintain the Strength of 
the Gold Solution. As the gold solution 
evaporates by being hot, distilled water must 
from time to time be added. The water 
should always be added when the operation 



ELECTBO'GILDING.^ 



347 



of gilding is over, not wheu it is about to be 
commenced, or the solution will not give so 
satisfactory a result. TVheu the gilding opera- 
tion is continued successively for several days, 
the water should be added at night. To ob- 
tain a deposit of a good color, much depends 
upon the state of the solution and battery ; it 
is therefore necessary that strict attention be 

f»aid to these, and the more so as the gold so- 
ution is very liable to change if the size of 
the article receiving the deposit is not tie 
' same as that of the positive electrode plate. 
The result of a series of observations and ex- 
periments, continued daily throughout a 
period of nine months, showed that in five 
instances only the deposit was exactly equal 
to the quantity dissolved from the positive 
plate. In many cases the difi'erence did not 
exceed 3 per cent., though occasionally it rose 
to 50 per cent. The average difi'erence, how- 
ever, was 25 per cent. In some cases double 
the quantity dissolved was deposited, in 
others the reverse occurred — both resulting 
from alterations made in the respective pro- 
cesses ; for in these expeiiments, the state of 
the solution and the relative sizes of the neg- 
ative and positive electrodes were varied, as 
far as practicable. The most simple method 
of keeping a constant register of the state of 
the solution is to weigh the gold electrode 
before putting it into the solution; and, when 
taking it out, to compare the loss with the 
amount deposited. A little allowance, how- 
ever, must be made for small portions of 
metal dissolved in the solution, from the arti- 
cles that are gilt, which, when gilding is per- 
formed daily, is considerable in a year. A 
constant control can thus be exercised over 
the solution, to which there will have to be 
added from time to time a little cyanide of 
potassium, a simple test of requirement being 
that the gold positive electrode should always 
come out clean, for if it has a film or crust it 
is a certain indication that the solution is de- 
ficient of cyanide of potassium. Care must 
be taken to distinguish this crust, which is 
occasionally dark-green or black, from a black 
appearance, which the gold electrode will take 
when very small in comparison to the article 
being gilt, and which is caused by the ten- 
dency to evolve gas. In this case an addition 
of cyanide of potassium would increase the 
evil. The black appearance from the ten- 
dency to the escape of gas has a slimy ap- 
pearance. This generally takes place when 
the solution is nearly exhausted of gold, of 
which fact this appearance, taken conjointly 
with the relative sizes of the electrodes, is a 
sure guide. 

8734. To Regulate the Color of the 
Gilding. The gold upon the gilt article, on 
coming out of the solution, should be of a dark 
yellow color, approaching to brown; but this, 
when scratched {see No. 3709), will yield a 
beautifully rich deep gold. If the color is 
blackish it ought not to be finished, for it will 
never either brush or burnish a good color. 
If the battery is too strong, and gas is given 
off from the article, the color will be black ; 
if the solution is too cold, or the battery 
rather weak, the gold will be light-colored ; 
so that every variety of shade may be impart- 
ed. A very rich dead gold may be made by 
adding ammoniuret of gold {see No. 3725) to 



the solution just as the articles are being put 
in ; or, what is better, add some sulphuret of 
carbon in the same way as for silver solutions 
{see No. 3710), which affects the color and 
appearance of the gold in the same way as it 
does the silver. 

3735. To Improve the Color of Gild- 
ing. A defective colored gilding may be im- 
proved by the help of the following mixture: 
3 parts nitrate of potassa (saltpetre), I5 parts 
alum, \^ parts sulphate of zinc, and 1^ parts 
common salt, are put into a small quantity of 
water, to form a sort of paste, which is put 
upon the articles to be colored; these are 
then placed upon an iron plate over a clear 
fire, so that they will attain nearly to a black 
heat, when they are suddenly plunged into 
cold water. This gives them a beautfful high 
color. Different hues may be had by a varia- 
tion in the mixture. 

3736. To Electro-gild with Red 
Gold. Gold having the red color of 14 carat 
gold may be deposited by the battery in the 
following manner: Prepare a solution of 
cyanide of copper by adding cyanide of potas- 
sium to a solution of sulphate of copper until 
the precipitate at first thrown down is redis- 
solved. Add to this a solution of cyanide of 
gold {see No. 3727) in sufficient quantity to 
give, on trial, the desired color of gold de- 
posit. "When using this solution, the positive 
electrode plate should be of gold of the same 
color as that desired to be deposited. 

3737. Practical Suggestions in Elec- 
tro-gilding. According to the amount of 
gold deposited, so will be its durability. A 
few grains will serve to give a gold color to a 
very large surface, but it will not last. This 
proves, however, that the process may be 
used for the most inferior quality of gilding. 
Gold thinly laid upon silver will be of a light 
color, because of the property of gold to 
transmit light. The solution for gilding sil- 
ver should be made very hot, but for copper 
it should be at its minimum heat. A 
mere blush may be sufficient for articles not 
subjected to wear; but on watch cases, pencil 
cases, chains, and the like, a good coating 
should be given. An ordinary sized watch 
case should have from 20 grains to a penny- 
weight; a mere coloring will be sufficient for 
the inside, but the outside should have as 
much as possible. A watch case thus gilt, 
for ordinary wear, will last five or six years 
without becoming bare. Small silver chains 
should have 12 grains ; pencil cases of ordin- 
ary size should have from three to five grains; 
a thimble from 1 to 2 grains. These sugges- 
tions will serve as a guide to amateur gilders, 
many of whom, having imparted only a color 
to their pencil cases, feel disappointed upon 
seeing them speedily become bare; hence 
arises much of the obloquy thrown upon the 
process. 

3738. To Deposit Copper, Silver, or 
Gold by the Battery on Paper and other 
Fibrous Material. The whole question is 
to make the paper a good conductor of elec- 
tricity without coating it with a material 
which may peel off. One of the best methods 
is to take a solution of nitrate of silver, pour 
in liquid ammonia till the precipitate at first 
foiTned is entirely dissolved again, and place 
the paper, silk, or muslin for one or two hours 



34.8 



ELECTKO-aiLDINa 



in this solution. After taking it out and dry- 
ing well, it is exposed to a current of hydrogen 
gas, by which operation the silver is reduced 
to a metallic state, and the material becomes 
so good a conductor of electricity that it may 
be electroplated with copper, silver, or gold, in 
the usual manner. 

3739. To Dissolve Gold from Gilt 
Articles. Before regilding articles which 
are partly covered with gold, or when the 
gilding is imperfect, and the articles require 
regilding, the gold should be removed from 
them by putting them into strong nitric acid ; 
and when the articles have been placed in the 
acid, by adding some common salt, not in so- 
lution, but in crystals. By this method gold 
may be dissolved from any metal, even from 
iron, without injuring; it in the least. After 
coming out of the acid, the articles must be 
polished. The best method, however, is to 
brush off the gold as described for silver {see 
No. 3706), which gives the polish at the same 
time. 

3740. ToRecover Gold from its Acid 
Solution. When the acid has become satu- 
rated by the gold that has been dissolved in it, 
or when it ceases to dissolve the gold rapidly, 
it is diluted with several times its balk of 
water, and then soda or potash added till the 
greater portion of the acid is neutralized. A 
solution of sulphate of iron (copperas) is then 
added, so long as a precipitate is formed ; 
when this settles down it is carefully collected 
upon a paper filter, washed and dried, and 
then fused in a crucible with a little borax and 
common salt, when the gold is found as a 
button at the bottom of the crucible. When 
the gold is brushed off, the brushings are 
burned at a red heat, and the residue fused 
with carbonate of soda and a little borax; in 
this case, the gold will not be pure, and will 
have to be refined. 

3741. To Separate Gold from Gilt 
Copper or Silver. Take a solution of borax 
in water, apply to the gilt surface, and 
sprinkle over it some finely powdered sul- 
phur; make the article red hot, and quench it 
in water ; then scrape off the gold, and re- 
cover it by means of lead. {See No. 3191.) 

3742. To Recover Gold from Gilt 
Articles. Gold may be stripped from arti- 
cles that have been gilt by placing them in 
strong nitric acid, in which some salt has 
been previously dissolved. When a number 
of articles have been stripped in the solution, 
it begins to work slowly, and it is time then to 
abandon it, and use a new one. The gold may 
then be recovered from the old solution, by 
evaporating it to dryness, and fusing the resi- 
duum with a small piece of soda or potash, 
the gold being fused into a button. The addi- 
tion of a little saltpetre will tend to make the 
refining process more complete. As there is 
some trouble connected with this process, it is 
scarcely worth adopting where very small 
quantities of gold are concerned. In such a 
case it is a better plan to suspend the article, 
from which the gold is to be removed, in the 
gilding bath, in the place of the anode, when 
gilding another article. 

3743. Electro-Gilding Without a 
Battery. Dissolve 9 parts terchloride of 
gold in 1000 to 2000 parts pure water ; then 
add 360 parts bicarbonate of potassa, and boil 



for two hours. The metallic article, if not 
copper, is covered with a film of copper sim- 
ultaneously with its being immersed into the 
boiling gilding liquor, by placing a piece ot 
sheet-copper along with it. As soon as a de- 
posit of copper is observed, the piece of cop- 
per is taken out, and the liquor continued 
boiling until a deep yeUow color is obtained. 
The article is then taken out, washed off with 
water, and rubbed with a metallic brush. 
When the liquor has again become clear by 
settling and decanting, it is again heated to 
boiling, the article immersed, while the piece 
of copper is moved about in the fluid without 
touching the other. The same operation may 
be renewed ad libitum, until the desired thick- 
ness of gold is obtained. 

3744. Plating and Gilding Without 
a Battery. Watts gives the following very 
useful solution of silver or gold for plating or 
gilding without the aid of a battery : Take 1 
ounce nitrate of silver, dissolved in 1 quart 
distilled or rain water. When thoroughly 
dissolved, throw in a few crystals of hypo- 
sulphite of soda, which will at first form a 
brown precipitate, but which eventually be- 
comes redissolved if sufficient hyposulphite 
has been employed. A slight excess of this 
salt must, however, be added. The solution 
thus formed may be used for coating small 
articles of steel, brass, or German silver, by 
simply dipping a sponge in the solution and 
rubbing it over the surface of the article to be 
coated ; the silver becomes so firmly attached 
to the steel (when the solution has been care- 
fully made) that it is removed with considera- 
ble difficulty. A solution of gold may be made 
in the sarae way, and applied as described. 
A concentrated solution of either gold or sil- 
ver, thus made, may be used for coating parts 
of articles which have stripped or blistered, 
by applying it with a camel-hair pencil to the 
part, and touching the spot at the same time 
with a thin clean strip of zinc. 

3745. To Distinguish Gold from its 
Imitations. The ordinary method of test- 
ing gold by the touchstone is founded upon 
the insolubility of this metal in nitric acid. If 
a mark be made on the touchstone with the 
article under examination, the gold is not dis- 
solved by this acid, whereas golden colored 
alloys of inferior value are dissolved and dis- 
appear immediately. When articles are very 
thinly gilded, the detection of the gold in 
this manner is uncertain, in which case the 
following method may be used with advan- 
tage. {See No.ZlW.) 

3746. Test Fluid for Gilded Arti- 
cles. A little carbonate of copper is put into 
a test-tube, and to this is added, drop by 
drop, pure hydrochloric acid, till the blue 
powder has dissolved to a clear green fluid, 
occasionally warming it over a spirit lamp. 
This concentrated solution of chloride of cop- 
per is diluted for use with from 10 to 11 
times its volume of distilled water. 

3747. To Test Gilded Articles. Be- 
fore testing, the metallic surface must be well 
cleaned. This can be done effectually by 
brushing it for a minute or two with a little 
spirits of wine, or, better, with absolute al- 
cohol. The surface having dried, a little of 
the testing fluid {see last receipt) is dropped 
on and allowed to remain in contact for about 



ELECTROPLATING WITH VARIOUS METALS. 



349 



a minute. The fluid is then removed by 
means of a small pipette, and the surface of 
the metal completely dried with bibulous 
paper; if no dark spot be then visible, the ar- 
ticle is coated with pure gold. If the metallic 
surface is but lightly gilded, a very slight 
blackening is sometimes remarked, which 
may throw a doubt upon the result. In such 
a case, to make quite certain, a little of the 
surface may be scraped ojQP, and then the test- 
ing fluid again applied. If a dark spot is then 
perceived, the article may be considered as 
very thinly gilded. 



TT'lectroplating: with. Va- 
-*— -'rions Metals. The following 

receipts furnish the means of coating objects 
with tin, zinc, brass, German silver, and other 
metals. 

3749. To Electroplate Copper, Brass, 
or G-erman Silver, with Aluminum, 
take equal measures of sulphuric acid and 
water, or take 1 measure each sulphuric and 
hydrochloric acids and 2 measures water; add 
to the water a small quantity of pipe-clay, in 
the proportion of 5 or 10 grains by weight to 
every ounce by measure of water (or k ounce 
to the pint). Rub the clay with the water until 
the two are perfectly mixed, then add the acid 
to the clay solution, and boil the mixture in a 
covered glass vessel 1 hour. Allow the liquid 
to settle, take the clear, supernatant solution, 
while hot, and immerse in it an earthen por- 
ous cell, containing a mixture of one measure 
of sulphuric acid and ten measures of water, 
together with a rod or plate of amalgamated 
zinc ; take a small Smee's battery of 3 or 4 
cells, and connect its positive pole by a wire 
with the piece of zinc in the porous cell. 
Having perfectly cleaned the surface of the 
article to be coated, connect it by a wire with 
the negative pole of the battery, and immerse 
it in the hot clay solution; immediately 
abundance of gas will be evolved from the 
whole of the immersed surface of the article, 
and in a few minutes, if the size of the article 
is adapted to the quantity of the current of 
electricity passing through it, a fine white de- 
posit of aluminum will appear all over the 
surface. It may then be taken out, washed 
quickly in clean water, and wiped dry, and 
polished ; but if a thicker coating is required, 
it must be taken out when the deposit 
becomes dull in appearance, washed, dried, 
polished, and reimmersed; and this must be 
repeated at intervals, as often as it becomes 
dull, until the required thickness is obtained. 
"With small articles it is not absolutely neces- 
sary that a separate battery be employed, as 
the article to be coated may be connected, as 
in the one cell method {see No. 3669), by a 
wire with the piece of zinc in the porous cell, 
and immersed in the outer liquid, when it will 
receive a deposit, but more slowly than when 
a battery is emploved. 

3750. To Electroplate with Tin. Tin 
is easily deposited from a solution of proto- 
chloride of tin. If the two poles or electrodes 
be kept about 2 inches apart, a most beautiful 
phenomenon may be observed. The decom- 
position of the solution is so rapid that it 



shoots out from the negative electrode like 
feelers, towards the positive, which it reaches 
in a few seconds. The space between the 
poles seems like a mass of crystallized threads, 
and the electric current passes through them 
without affecting further decomposition. So 
tender are these metallic threads that when 
lifted out of the solution they fall upon the 
plate like cobweb. Seen through a glass they 
exhibit a beautiful crystalline structure. Tin 
may also be deposited from its solution in 
caustic potash or soda. 

3751. Galvanic Tinning. M. Mais- 
trasse-Dupro, it appears, had been commis- 
sioned by the French government to apply, 
by galvanic means, tin upon divers objects 
which had been made of so-called galvanized 
iron — that is, iron covered with zinc. To this 
purpose ho applied galvanic elements made of 
copper and zinc plates, the length of which is 
48 inches, the width 28 inches, placed in a 
leaden trough and separated and isolated by 
means of wooden partitions. The copper 
sheet was immersed in a mixture of equal 
parts of acetate of lead and common salt, and 
the zinc element was placed in weak sulphuric 
acid, specific gravity 1.060. This battery re- 
mains in constant action and working order 
for 8 days, at an outlay of only 2 francs. 
"When the objects which are galvanically 
tinned are afterwards heated to the melting 
point of tin, the goodness and durability of 
hot-tinned materials is thus obtained. Copper 
thus tinned (galvanically), and afterwards 
heated, is superficially converted into bell 
metal, while the method of tinning gal van-*- 
ically has the great advantage over the old 
method, that it can be applied to objects to 
which the method of tinning in ordinary use 
is not applicable. 

3752. To Electroplate with Brass. 
Brass can be deposited when the solution is 
composed of 1 part sulphate of copper in 4 
parts hot water, 8 parts sulphate of zinc in 16 
parts of hot water, 18 parts cyanide of potas- 
sium in 36 parts of hot water. These are 
mixed, and 250 parts of water added. Instead 
of a copper positive electrode plate, one of 
brass is necessary ; the solution is required to 
be kept nearly boiling, and a powerful battery 
to be used. 

3753. To Prepare Cyanides of Cop- 
per and Zinc. For copper, dissolve 1 ounce 
of sulphate of copper in 1 pint of hot water. 
For zinc, dissolve 1 ounce of the sulphate of 
zinc in 1 pint of hot water, and proceed the 
same as for cyanide of silver. {See No. 3697.) 

3754. Cyanide Solution of Copper 
or Zinc. Dissolve 8 ounces (troy) cyanide 
of potassium, and 3 ounces cyanide of copper 
or zinc in 1 gallon of rain or distilled water. 
They should be used at about 160° Fahr.; 
with a compound battery of 3 to 12 cells. 

3755. Cyanide Solution of Copper. 
To prepare copper solutions by means of 
cyanide of potassium, for covering iron and 
other positive metals, there are several meth- 
ods, but the method adopted in manufacturing 
purposes is as follows : To a solution of sul- 
phate of copper, add a solution of ferrocyanide 
of potassium (yellow prussiate of potassa), 
so long as a precipitate continues to be form- 
ed ; this is allowed to settle, and, the clear 
liquor being decanted, the vessel is filled with 



350 



ELECTBOPLATINa WITH VARIOUS METALS. 



water,, and -when the precipitate settles, the 
liquor is again decanted, and these washings 
are repeated until the sulphate of potash is 
washed quite out. This is known by adding 
a little chloride of barium to a small quantity 
of the washiness ; if no white precipitate is 
formed by this test, the precipitate is suffi- 
ciently washed. A solution of cyanide of 
potassium is now added to this precipitate 
until it is dissolved, during which process the 
solution becomes warm by the chemical reac- 
tion that takes place. The solution is filtered, 
and allowed to repose all night. If the solu- 
tion of cyanide of potassium that is used is 
strong, the greater portion of the ferrocyanide 
of potassium crystallizes in the solution, and 
may be collected and preserved for use again. 
If the solution of cyanide of potassium used 
to dissolve the precipitate is dilute, it will be 
necessary to condense the liquor by evapora- 
tion, to obtain the yellow prussiate in crys- 
tals ; the remaining solution is the coppering 
solution. Should it not be convenient to 
separate the yellow prussiate by crystalliza- 
tion, the presence of that salt in the solution 
does not interfere with its power of depositing 
copper. 

3756. To Prepare Iron for Coating 
•with. Copper. "When it is required to cover 
an iron article with copper, it is first steeped 
in hot caustic potash or soda, to remove any 
grease or oil. Being washed from that, it 
is placed for a short time in dilute sulpamric 
acid, consisting of about 1 part of acid to IG 
parts water, which removes any oxide that may 
exist. It is then washed in water, and scoured 
with sand till the surface is perfectly clean, 
and finally attached to the battery, and im- 
mersed in the cyanide solution. {See No. 
3755.) All this must be done with dispatch, 
so as to prevent the iron combining with 
oxygen. An immersion of five minutes' dura- 
tion in the cyanide solution is sufficient to 
deposit upon the iron a film of copper. But 
it is necessary to the complete protection of 
the iron, that it should have a tolerably thick 
coating ; and, as the cyanide process is expen- 
sive, it is preferable, when the iron has re- 
ceived a film of copper by the cyanide solu- 
tion, to take it out, wash it in water, and 
attach it to a single cell or weak battery, and 
put it into a solution of sulphate of copper. 
If there is any part not sufficiently covered 
with copper by the cyanide solution, the sul- 
phate will make these parts of a dark color, 
which a touch of the finger will remove. 
When such is the case, the article must be 
taken out, scoured, and put again into the 
cyanide solution till perfectly covered. A 
little practice will render this very easy. The 
sulphate solution, when used for covering iron, 
should be prepared by adding to it by degrees 
a little caustic soda, so long as the precipitate 
formed is redissolved. This neutralizes a 
great portion of the sulphuric acid, and thus 
the iron is not so readily acted upon. 

3757. To Coat Iron with Zinc. In 
covering iron with zinc, the precautions ne- 
cessary for copper are not required; zinc being 
the positive metal, acids have a stronger 
affinity for it than for iron, and therefore an 
acid solution maybe used. The solution gen- 
erally used is the sulphate, used in the same 
way as sulphate of copper. {See No. 3661.) 



3758. Test for Galvanized Iron. 

When zinc is deposited (m iron by galvanic 
agency, it should form a chemical combination 
with the iron, and not be merely attached 
thereto. It is proposed by Mr. T. Bruce 
Warren, of England, to use this fact for prac- 
tically testing the efficiency of the galvaniza- 
tion. If mercury be poured over the surface, 
the zinc that is only locally attached will 
fonn an amalgam with the mercury. Mr. 
Warren also uses this as a quantitative test, to 
verify the amount of zinc in combination with 
the iron. 

3759. To Make a Cyanide Solution 
of Brass. Dissolve 1 pound (troy) cyanide 
of potpssium, 2 ounces cyanide of copper, and 
1 ounce cyanide of zinc, in 1 gallon rain or 
distilled water ; then add 2 ounces muriate of 
ammonia. This solution is to be used at 
160° Fahr. on smooth work, with a compound 
battery of 3 to 12 cells. 

3760. Electroplating with Platinum. 
This metal has never yet been successfully 
deposited as a protecting coating to other 
metals. A soluticm may be made by dissolv- 
ing it in a mixture of nitric and muriatic 
acids, the same as is employed in dissolving 
gold ; but heat must be applied. The solu- 
tion is then evaporated to dryness, and to the 
remaining mass is added a solution of cyanide 
of potassium ; next, it must be slightly heated 
for a short time, and then filtered. This solu- 
tion, evaporated, yields beautiful crystals of 
cyanide of platinum and potassium ; but it is 
unnecessary to crystallize the salt. A very 
weak battery power is required to deposit the( 
metal; the solution should be heated to 100°. 
Great care must be taken to obtain a fine 
metallic deposit ; indeed, the operator may 
not succeed once in twenty times in getting 
more than a mere coloring of metal over the 
surface, and that not very adhesive. The 
causes of the difficulty are probably these : 
the platinum used as an electrode is not acted 
upon; the quantity of salt in solution is very 
little ; it requires a particular battery strength 
to give a good deposit, and the slightest 
strength beyond this gives a black deposit; 
so that, were the proper relations obtained, 
whenever there is any deposit, the relations 
of battery and solution are changed, and the 
black pulverulent deposit follows. 

3761. Electroplating with Palladium. 
Palladium is a metal very easily deposited. 
The solution is prepared by dissolving the 
metal in nitro-muriatic acid, and evaporating 
the solution nearly to dryness ; then adding 
cyanide of potassium tni the whole is dis- 
solved; the solution is then filtered and ready 
for use. The cyanide of potassium holds a 
large quantity of this metal in solution, and 
the electrode is acted upon while the deposit 
is proceeding. Articles covered with this 
metal assume the appearance of the metal; 
but so far as we are aware, it has not yet' 
been applied to any practical purpose. It 
requires lather a thick deposit to protect 
metals from the action of acids, which is, 
probably, the only use it can be applied to. 

3762. Electroplating with Nickel. 
JSTickei is very easily deposited, and may be 
prepared for this pui-pose by dissolving it in 
nitric acid, then adding cyanide of potassium 
to precipitate the metal ; after which the pre- 



ELECTROPLATING WITH VARIOUS METALS. 



351 



cipitate is washed and dissolved by the ad- 
dition of more cyanide of potassium. Or the 
nitrate solution may be precipitated by car- 
bonate of potash ; this should be well washed, 
and then dissolved in cyanide of potassium ; a 
proportion of carbonate of potash will be in 
the solution, which has not been found to be 
detrimental. Th<i metal is very easily depos- 
ited ; it yields a color approaching to silver, 
which is not liable to tarnish on exposure to 
the air. A coating of this metal would be 
very useful for covering common work, such 
as gasaliers, and other gas-fittings, and even 
common plate. The great diflficulty experi- 
enced is to obtain a positive electrode : the 
metal is very difficult to fuse, and so brittle 
that we have never been able to obtain either 
a plate or a sheet of it. Could this difficulty 
be easily overcome, the application of nickel 
to tLe coating of other metals would be ex- 
tensive, and the property of not being liable 
to tarmsh would make it eminently useful for 
all general purposes. 

3763. Nagel's Method of Electroplat- 
ing with. Nickel. A process devised by Mr. 
iS^agel, of Hamburg, for coating iron, steel, 
and other oxidizable metals with an electro 
deposit oi nickel or cobalt, consists in taking 
4 parts, ly weight, of pure sulphate of the 
protoxide of nickel by crystallization, and 2 
parts, by weight, of pure ammonia, so as to 
form a double salt, which is then dissolved in 
60 parts of distilled water, and 12 parts of am- 
moniacal solulion of the specific gravity of 
.909 added. The electro deposit is effected 
'^by an ordinary galvanic current, using a 
(platinum positive pole, the solution being 
'heated to about 100^ Fahr. The strength of 
the galvanic current is regulated according to 
the ^^uinber of objects to be coated. 

3761. To ProTi>>ct Steel from Rusting. 
It has been found by experiment that an elec- 
tro-deposited coating' of nickel protects the 
surface of polished steel completely from rust. 
Swords, knives, and other articles of steel 
liable to exposure, may be coated with nickel 
without materially altering the color of the 
metal. 

3765. To Protect Copper and Brass. 
Copper and brass are equally well protected 
by nickel {see No. 3704), but, of course, with 
change of colf>r on the surface. The nickel 
facing, when burnished, has a whiter color 
than polished steel, but not as white as silver, 
being nearer in appearance to platinum. 

3766. Nagel's Method of Electroplat- 
ing Metal with Cobalt. For coating with 
cobalt, 138 parts, by weight, of pure sulphate 
of cobalt, are combined with 69 parts of pure 
ammonia, to form a double salt, which is then 
dissolved m 1000 parts of distilled water, and 
120 parts of ammoniacal solution, of the same 
specific gravity as before, are added. The 
process of deposition with cobalt is the same 
as with nickel. {See No. 3763.) 

3787. To Electroplate with Silicium. 
In the following manner, a coating of sihcium 
can be obtained direct from silica : Take the 
following proportions : f ounce, by measure, 
of hydrofluoric acid, f ounce hydrochloric 
acid, and 40 or 50 grains either of precipitated 
silica, or of fine white sand (the former dis- 
solves most freely), and boil the whole together 
for a few minutes, until no more silica is dis- 



solved. Use this solution exactly in the same 
manner as the clay solution {see No. 3767), 
and a fine white deposit of metallic silicium 
will be obtained, provided that the size of the 
article is adapted to the quantity of the elec- 
tric current. Common red sand, or, indeed, 
any kind of silicious stone, finely powdered, 
may be nsed in place of the white sand, and 
with equal success, if it be previously boiled 
in hydrochloric acid, to remove the red oxide 
of iron or other impurities. In depositing 
both aluminum and silicium, it is necessary to 
well saturate the acid with the solid ingre- 
dients by boihng, otherwise very little deposit 
of metal wiU be obtained. 

3768. To Prepare a Brass Solution. 
For each gallon of water used to make the so- 
lution, take 1 pound carbonate of ammonia, 1 
pound cyanide of potassium, 2 ounces cyanide 
of copper, and 1 ounce cyanide of zinc. This 
constitutes the solution for the decomposing 
cell. It may be prepared, also, from the above 
proportions of carbonate of ammonia and 
cyanide of potassium, by immersing in it a 
large sheet of brass of the desired quality, 
and making it the anode or positive electrode 
of a powerful galvanic battery or magneto- 
electric machine ; and making a small piece of 
metal the cathode or negative electrode, from 
which hydrogen must be freely evolved. This 
operation is continued till the solution has 
taken up a sufficient quantity of the bras ^« to 
produce a reguline deposit. 

3769. To Electroplate with Brass. 
The solution {see No. 3768) may be used cold ; 
but it is desirable, in many cases, to heat it 
(according to the nature of the articles to 
be deposited upon) to 212° Fahr. For 
wrought or fancy work, about 150° Fahr. 
will give excellent results. The galvanic bat- 
tery, or magneto-electric machine, must be 
capable of evolving hydrogen freely from the 
cathode or negative electrode, or article at- 
tached thereto. It is preferred to have a large 
anode or positive electrode, as this favors the 
evolution of hydrogen. The article or articles 
treated as before described will immediately 
become coated with brass. By continuing 
the process, any desired thickness may be ob- 
tained. Should the copper have a tendency 
to come down in a greater proportion than is 
uesired, which may be known by the deposit 
assuming too red an appearance, it is coiTcct- 
ed by the addition of carbonate of ammonia, 
or by a reduction of temperature, when the 
solution is heated. Should the zinc have a 
tendency to come down in too great a propor- 
tion, which may be seen by the deposit being 
too pale in its appearance, this is corrected by 
the addition of cyanide of potassium or by an 
increase of temperature. 

3770. To Electroplate with German 
Silver. The alloy, German silver, is deposit- 
ed by means of a solution consisting of car- 
bonate of ammonia and cyanide of potassium 
(in the proportions given above for the brass), 
and cyanides or other compounds of nickel, 
copper, and zinc, in the requisite proportions 
to constitute German silver. It is, however, 
preferred to make the solution by means of 
the galvanic battery or magneto-electric 
machine, as above described for brass. Should 
the copper of the German silver come down 
in too great a proportion, this is corrected by 



BBOXZING. 



adding carbonate of ammonia, which brings 
down the zinc more freely ; and should it be 
necessary to bring down the copper in greater 
quantity, cyanide of potassium is added — 
such treatment being similar to that of the 
brass before described. 



Bronzing. TMs is the process 
of giving a bronze-like or an antique 
metallic appearance to the surface of copper, 
brass, and other metals. This is generally 
effected by the action of some substance 
which combines with and changes the nature 
of the surface of the metal. The application 
of powdered bronzing substances, made to 
adhere by sizing, &c., to the surface of other 
material than metal, such as wood, plaster, 
<fec., is termed surface bronzing. {See Nos. 
3382, 4-G.) 

3772. Brown Bronzes for Medals, 
&c. Take a wine-glass of water, and add to 
it 4 or 5 drops nitric acid ; with this solution 
wet the medal (which ought to have been 
previously well cleaned from oil or grease) 
and then allow it to dry ; when dry impart 
to it a gradual and equable heat, by which 
the surface will be darkened in proportion to 
the heat applied. 

3773. Bronzing with Crocus. Make 
a thin paste of crocus and water; lay this 
paste on the face of the medal, which must 
then be put into an oven, or laid on an iron 
plate over a slow fire ; when the paste is per- 
fectly reduced to powder, brush it off and lay 
on another coating ; at the same time quicken 
the fire, taking care that the additional heat 
is uniform ; as soon as the second application 
of paste is thoroughly dried, brush it off. 
The medal being now effectually secured 
from grease, which often occasions failures in 
bronzing, coat it a third time, but add to the 
strength of the fire, and sustain the heat for 
a considerable time ; a little experience will 
soon enable the operator to decide when the 
medal may be withdrawn ; the third coating 
being removed, the surface will present a 
beautiful brown bronze. If the bronze is 
deemed too light the process can be repeated. 

3774. Bronzing with. Black-Lead. 
After the medal has been well cleaned from 
wax or grease, by washing it in a little 
caustic alkali, brush some black-lead over 
the face of it, and then heat it in the same 
w^ay as described in ISTo. 3773 for crocus ; or a 
thin paste of black-lead may be used, and the 
processes already referred to be repeated until 
the desired brown tint is obtained. In this 
kind of bronze a little hematitic iron ore, 
which has an unctuous feel, may be brushed 
over the face of the bronze, by which a 
beautiful lustre is imparted to it, and a con- 
siderable variety in the shade may be ob- 
tained. In the brown bronzes the copper is 
slightly oxidized on the surface. 

3775. Plumbago Bronze. This bronze 
is obtained by brushing the surface of the 
medal with plumbago, then placing it on a 
clear fire till it is made too hot to be touched, 
and applying a plate brush so soon as it ceases 
to be hot enough to burn the brush. A few 
strokes of the brush will produce a dark 



brown polish, approaching black, but entirely 
distinct from the well known appearance of 
black-lead. If the same operation is per- 
formed on a medal that has been kept some 
days, or upon one that has been polished, a 
different, but very brilliant tint is produced. 
The color is between red and brown. The 
richness of color thus produced is by many 
preferred to the true dark brown. 

3776. Chinese Bronze. Take 2 ounces 
each verdigris and vermilion ; 5 ounces each 
alum and sal-ammoniac, all in fine powder, 
and sufficient vinegar to make a paste ; then 
spread it over the surface of the copper, pre- 
viously well cleaned and brightened ; uni- 
formly warm the article by the fire, and after- 
wards well wash and dry it, when, if the tint 
be not deep enough, the process may be re- 
peated. The addition of a little sulphate of 
copper inclines the color to a chestnut 
brown; and a little borax to a yellowish 
brown. Much employed by the Chinese for 
copper tea-urns. 

3777. Carbonate of Iron Bronze. 
Beautiful tints arc produced by using plate- 
powder or rouge. After moistening with wa- 
ter, it is applied and treated in precisely the 
same manner as the plumbago. {See No. 
3775.) 

3778. Black Bronzes. A very dark 
colored bronze may be obtained by using a 
little sulphuretted alkali (sulphuret of am- 
monia is best). The face of the medal is 
washed over with the solution, which should 
be dilute, and the medal dried at a gentle 
heat, and afterwards polished with a hard 
hair brush. Sulphuretted hydrogen gas is 
sometimes employed to give this black brcmze, 
but the effect of it is not so good, and the gas 
is very deleterious when breathed. In these 
bronzes the surface of the copper is converted 
into a sulphuret. 

3779. German Method of Bronzing 
Brass Black. There are two methods of 
procuring a black lacquer upon the surface of 
brass. The one which is that usually em- 
ployed for optical and scientific instruments, 
consists in first polishing the object with 
Tripoli, then washing it with a mixture com- 
posed of 1 part nitrate of tin and 2 parts 
chloride of gold, and, after allowing this wash 
to remain on for about 12 or 15 minutes, 
wiping it off with a linen cloth. An excess 
of acid increases the intensity of the tint. In 
the other method, copper turnings are dis- 
solved in nitric acid until the acid is satura- 
ted ; the objects are immersed in the solution, 
cleaned, and subsequently heated moderately 
over a charcoal fire. This process must be 
repeated in order to produce a black color, as 
the first trial only gives a deep green ; when 
the desired color is attained, the finishing 
touch is given by polishing with olive oil. 

3780. Black Bronzes. Many metallic 
solutions, such as weak acid solutions of 
platinum, gold, palladium, antimony, etc., 
will impart a dark color to the surface of 
medals when they are dipped into them. The 
medal, after being dipped into the metallic so- 
lution, is to be well washed and brushed. In 
such bronzes the metals contained in the so- 
lution are precipitated upon the face of thfr 
copper medal, which effect is accompanied 
by a partial solution of the copper. 



BRONZING. 



353 



3781. Green Bronzes for Figures 
and Busts. Green bronzes require a little 
more time than those already described. 
They depend upon the formation of an 
acetate, carbonate, or other green salt of cop- 
per upon the surface of the medal. Steeping 
for some days in a strong solution of common 
salt will give a partial bronzing which is very 
beautiful, and, if washed in water and allowed 
to dry slowly, is very permanent. Sal am- 
moniac may be substituted for common salt. 
Even a strong solution of sugar, alone, or 
with a little acetic or oxalic acid, will produce 
a green bronze ; so also will exposure to the 
fumes of dilute acetic acid, to weak fumes 
of hydrochloric acid, and to several other 
vapors. A dilute solution of ammonia al- 
lowed to dry upon the copper surface will 
leave a green tint, but not very permanent. 

3782. Bronzing with. Bleaching 
Powder. Electrotypes may be bronzed 
green, having the appearance of ancient 
bronze, by a very simple process. Take a 
small portion of bleaching powder (chloride of 
lime), place it in the bottom of a dry vessel, 
and suspend the medal over it, and cover the 
vessel ; in a short time the medal will acquire 
a green coating, the depth of which may be 
regulated by the quantity of bleaching pow- 
der used, or the time that the medal is 
suspended in its fumes ; of course, any sort of 
vessel, or any means by which the electro- 
type may be exposed to the fumes of the 
powder, will answer the purpose; a few 
grains of the powder is all that is required. 
According as the medal is clean or tarnished, 
dry or wet, when suspended, diflferent tints, 
with different degrees of adhesion, wlU be ob- 
tained. 

3783. Fine Green Bronze. Dissolve 
2 ounces verdigris and 1 ounce sal-ammoniac 
in 1 pint vinegar, and dilute the mixture 
with water until it tastes but slightly metallic, 
when it must be boiled for a few minutes, 
and filtered for use. Copper medals, <fec., pre- 
viously thoroughly cleaned from grease and 
dirt, are to be steeped in the liquor at the 
boiling point, until the desired effect is pro- 
duced. Care must be taken not to keep them 
in the solution too long. When taken out, 
they should be carefully washed in hot water, 
and well dried. Gives an antique appearance. 
3784. To Bronze Brass Orange, 
Greenish. Grey and Violet Tint. An 
orange tint, inclining to gold, is produced by 
first polishing the brass, and then plunging it 
for a few seconds into a neutral solution of 
crystallized acetate of copper, care being 
taken that the solution is completely destitute 
of all free acid, and possesses a warm temper- 
ature. Dipped into a bath of copper, the 
resulting tint is a greyish green, while a beau- 
tiful violet is obtained by immersing it for a 
single instant in a solution of chloride of an- 
timony, and rubbing it with a stick covered 
with cotton. The temperature of the brass 
at the time the operation is in progress has a 
great influence upon the beauty and delicacy 
of the tint ; in the last instance it should be 
heated to a degree so as just to be tolerable to 
the touch. 

3785. Moire Bronze. A moire appear- 
ance, vastly superior to that usually seen, is 
produced by boiling the object in a solution 



of sulphate of copper. According to the pro- 
portions observed between the zinc and tho 
copper in the composition of the brass article^ 
so will the tints obtained vary. In many in- 
stances it requires the employment of a slight 
degree of friction with a resinous or waxy- 
varnish, to bring out the wavy appearance 
characteristic of moire, which is also singular- 
ly enhanced by dropping a few iron nails into 
the bath. 

3786. French Bronze. An eminent 
Parisian sculptor makes use of a mixture of 
^ ounce sal-ammoniac, i ounce common salt^ 
1 ounce spirits of hartshorn, and 1 imperial 
quart of vinegar. A good result will also b© 
obtained by substituting an additional 5 ounce 
sal-ammoniac, instead of the spirits of harts- 
horn. The piece of metal, being well cleaned;, 
is to be rubbed with one of these solutions,, 
and then dried by friction with a clean brush. 
If the hue be found too pale at the end of 2 
or 3 days, the operation may be repeated. It 
is found to be more advantageous to operate 
in the sunshine than in the shade. 

3787. To Bronze Copper with Sul- 
phur. When objects made of copper are 
immersed in melted sulphur mixed with lamp- 
black, the objects so treated obtain the ap- 
pearance of bronze, and can be polished with- 
out losing that aspect. 

3788. Antique Bronze. Dissolve 1 
ounce sal-ammoniac, 3 ounces cream of tar- 
tar, and 6 ounces common salt, in 1 pint hot 
water ; then add 2 ounces nitrate of copper,, 
dissolved in 5 pint water; mix well, and apply 
it repeatedly to the article, placed in a damp' 
situation, by means of a brush moistened 
therewith. This produces a very antique' 
effect. 

3789. Antique Bronze. Eub the medal' 
with a solution of sulphuret of potassium, 
then dry. This produces the appearance of 
antique bronze very exactly. 

3790. Bronzing Liquids for Tin Cast- 
ings. "Wash them over, after being well 
cleaned and wiped, with a solution of 1 part 
sulphate of iron, and 1 part sulphate of cop- 
per, in 20 parts water ; afterwards with a so- 
lution of 4 parts verdigris in 11 of distilled 
vinegar ; leave for an hour to dry, and then 
polish with a soft brush and crocus. 

3791. To Bronze Iron Castings^. 
Iron castings may be bronzed by thorough 
cleaning {see No. 3641) and subsequent im- 
mersion in a solution of sulphate of copper, 
when they acquire a coat of the latter metal. 
They must be then washed in water. 

3792. Surface Bronzing. This term is 
applied to the process of imparting to the 
surfaces of figures of wood, plaster of Paris, 
&.Q.., a metallic appearance. This is done by^ 
first giving them a coat of oil or size varnish,, 
and when this is nearly dry, applying with a. 
dabber of cotton or a camel-hair pencil, any 
of the metallic bronze powders ; or the pow- 
der may be placed in a little bag of muslin,, 
and dusted over the surface, and afterwards 
finished off with a wad of linen. The surface 
must be afterwards varnished. 

3793. To Bronze Paper. Paper i& 
bronzed by mixing the powders up with ^. 
little gum and water, and afterwards burnish- 
ing. The paper used should contain sufficient 
sizing not to absorb the gum. 



S54: 



BBONZING 



3794. Beautiful Red Bronze Powder. 

Mix together sulphate of copper, 100 parts ; 
carbonate of soda, 60 parts ; apply heat until 
they unite into a mass, then cool, powder, and 
add copper filings, 15 parts; -vrell mix, and 
keep them at a white heat for 20 minutes, 
then cool, powder, wash thoroughly with 
water, and dry. 

3795. Gold Colored Bronze Powder. 
Yerdigris, 8 ounces ; tutty powder, 4 ounces ; 
borax and nitre, each 2 ounces ; bichloride of 
mercury, J ounce; make them into a paste 
with oil, and fuse them together. Used in 
japanning as a gold color. Or : Grind Dutch 
foil or pure gold leaf to an impalpable powder. 
{See Nos. 2491 and 2517.) 

3796. Silver Wliite Bronze Powder. 
Melt together 1 ounce each bismuth and tin, 
then add 1 ounce running quicksilver; cool 
and powder. 

3797. Graham's Cluick Bronzing Li- 
quids. The following 19 receipts are prepara- 
tions for bronzing brass, copper, and zinc, by 
simple immersion. Their action is imme- 
<liate. 

3798. Black or Brown Bronzing for 
Brass, Copper, or Zinc. Dissolve 5 
drachms nitrate of iron in 1 pint water. Or : 5 
■drachms perchloride of iron in 1 pint water. 
A black may also be obtained from 10 ounces 
muriate of arsenic in 2 pints permuriate of 
iron, and 1 pint water. 

3799. Brown or Red Bronzing for 
Prass. Dissolve 16 drachms nitrate of iron, 
*nd 16 di-achms hyposulphite of soda, in 1 pint 
water. Or : 1 drachm nitric acid may be sub- 
stituted for the nitrate of iron. 

3800. Red-Brown Bronzing for Brass. 
Pissolve 1 ounce nitrate of copper, and 1 
ounce oxalic acid, in 1 pint water, brought 
to the boil, and then cooled. Or: 1 pint 
solution of ferrocyanide of potassium and 3 
drachms nitric acid. This latter is slow in 
action, taking an hour to produce good re- 
sults. 

3801. Dark Brown Bronzing for 
Brass. Mix 1 ounce cyanide of potassitrm, 
and 4 drachms nitric acid, with 1 pint water. 

3802. Red Bronzing for Brass. Mix 
30 grains tersulphite of arsenic, 6 drachms so- 
lution of pearlash, and 1 pint water. 

3803. Orange Bronzing for Brass. 
Mix 1 drachm potash solution of sulphur with 

1 pint water. 

3804. Olive Green Bronzing for 
Brass. Dissolve 1 pint permuriate of iron in 

2 pints water. 

3805. Slate-Colored Bronzing for 
Brass. Dissolve 2 drachms sulphocyanide 
of potassium, and 5 drachms perchloride of 
iron, in 1 pint water. 

3806. Blue Bronzing for Brass. Mix 
20 drachms hyposulphite of soda with 1 pint 
water. 

3807. Steel-Grey Bronzing for Brass, 
or Copper. Mix 1 ounce muriate of arsenic 
with 1 pint water, and use at a heat not less 
than 180O Fahr. 

3808. Dark Drab Bronzing for Cop- 
per. This is prepared by adding 2 drachms 
sulphocyanide of potassium to the mixture 
given in oSTo. 3807. Or : mix 1 ounce sulphate 
of copper, 1 ounce hyposulphite of soda, 2 
drachins hydrochloric acid, and 1 pint water. 



3809. Bright Red Bronzing for Cop- 
per. Mix 2 drachms sulphide of antimony, 
and 1 ounce pearlash, in 1 pint water. 

3810. Dark Red Bronzing for Cop- 
per. Dissolve 1 drachm sulphur, and 1 ounce 
pearlash, in 1 pint water. 

3811. Dark Grey Bronzing for Zinc. 
Mix 1 drachm protochloride of tin, and 1 
di-achm sulphocyanide of potassium, with 1 
pint water. Or : Dissolve 1 drachm each sul- 
phate of copper and muriate of iron, in 2 pints 
water. A similar effect may be obtained by 
mixing muriate of lead with water to the con- 
sistency of cream. 

3812. Green-Grey Bronzing for Zinc. 
Dissolve i drachm mmiate of iron in 1 pint 
water. 

3813. Red Bronzing for Zinc. Use 
garanciae (madder-red) infusion boiling hot. 

3814. Copper-Colored Bronzing for 
Zinc. Agitate the articles in a solution of 8 
drachms sulphate of copper, and 8 drachfns 
hyposulphite of soda, in 1 pint water. 

3815. Copper-Colored Bronzing for 
Zinc Plates. Make a solution of 4 drachms 
sulphate of copper, and 4 drachms pearlash, m 
1 pint water. Immerse the zinc plate in it, 
connected at one end with a plate of copper, 
as represented in Fig. I, Xo. 3665. This, it 
will be seen, induces a galvanic current, and 
is electroplating on a small scale. 

3816. Purple Bronzing for Zinc. Im- 
merse in a boiling infusion of logwood. 

3817. Larkin's Bronzing Fluids for 
Alloys of a Silvery-Grey Color. Mr. 
Larkin states that, for the purpose of render- 
ing alloys which are of a silvery-gi-ey color, 
perfectly suitable as substitutes for copper, 
bronze, brass, and other metals, the color 
proper to the metals which they are intended 
to substitute is imparted to them by means 
of any solution of copper. The hydro- 
chlorate of copper is found to answer best, 
and is employed as directed in the five follow- 
ing receipts. 

3818. Directions for Using Lar kin's 
Bronzing Fluids. In either of these meth- 
ods of coloring, a solution of sal-ammoniac 
may be substituted for the liquid ammonia. 
The quantities of each ingredient have not 
been stated, as these depend upon the nature 
of the alloy, the shade or hue desired, and the 
durabHity required. The bluish-bronze color 
may be superadded to the red or copper color, 
whereby a beautiful light color is produced on 
the prominent parts of the article bronzed, or on. 
the parts from which the blackish-bronze color 
may have been rubbed ofi". These new alloys 
may be used as substitutes for various metals 
now in general use, such as iron, lead, tin, or 
copper, in pipes and tubes; and bronze, brass, 
and copper, in machinery and manufactories, 
as well as for most of the other purposes for 
which more expensive metals are employed. 

3819. Blackish Bronze Coloring, 
For giving silvery-grey alloys a blackisS- 
bronze color, they are treated with a solution 
of hydrochlorate of copper diluted with a con- 
siderable quantity of water, and a small quan- 
tity of nitric acid may be added. 

3820. Lead or Copper Coloring. To 
impart a lead or copper color, add to the so- 
j lution of hydrochlorate of copper, liquid am- 
1 monia and a httle acetic acid. The sa 



CHEMICAL MANIFULATIOXS. 



355 



of copper may be dissolved iu the liquid am- 
mouia. 

3821. Antique Bronze Coloring. To 

impart a brass or antique bronze color, cither 
of the three following means may be adopt- 
ed : — A solution of copper, with some acetic 
acid. Or : — The means before described for 
copper color, with a large proportion of liquid 
ammonia. Or : — Water acidulated with nitric 
acid, by which beautiful bluish shades may 
be produced. It must be observed, however, 
this last process can only be properly employ- 
ed on the alloys which contain a portion of 
copper. 

3822. Drab Bronze for Brass. Brass 
obtains a very beautiful drab bronze by being 
worked iu moulders' damp sand for a short 
time and brushed up. 

3823. To Make Bronze Powder for 
Plaster Casts, &c. To a solution of soda- 
soap iu linseed oil, cleared by straining, add 
a mixture of 4 pints sulphate of copper solu- 
tion, and 1 pint sulphate of iron solution, 
which precipitates a metallic soap of a pecu- 
liar bronze hue; wash with cold water, strain, 
and dry to powder. 

3824. To Bronze Plaster Casts, &c. 
The powdered soap of the last receipt is thus 
applied : Boil 3 pounds pure linseed oil with 
12 ounces finely powdered litharge; strain 
through a coarse canvas cloth, and allow to 
stand until clear ; 15 ounces of this soap var- 
nish, mixed with 12 ounces metallic soap 
powder {see last receipt), and 5 ounces fine 
white wax, are to be melted together at a 
gentle heat in a porcelain basin, by means of 
a water-bath, and allowed to remain for a 
time in a melted state to expel any moisture 
that it may contain ; it is then applied with a 
brush to the surface of the plaster previously 
heated to 200*^ Fahr., being careful to lay it 
on smoothly, and without filling up any small 
indentations of the plaster design. Place it 
for a few days in a cool place ; and, as soon 
as the smell of the soap varnish has gone ofi", 
rub the surface over with cotton wool, or fine 
linen rag, and variegated with a few streaks 
of metal powder or shell gold. Small ob- 
jects may be dipped in the melted mixture, 
and exposed to the heat of a fire till thor- 
oughlv penetrated and evenly coated with it. 

3825. To Make Bronzing for Wood. 
Grind separately to a fine powder, Prussian 
blue, chrome yellow, raw umber, lampblack, 
and clay, and mix in such proportions as will 
produce a desired dark green hue ; then mix 
with m:)derately strong glue size. 

3828. To Bronze "Wood. First coat 
the clean wood with a mixtm'e of size and 
lampblack ; then apply two coats of the gi'cen 
colored sizing in the last receipt ; and lastly 
with bronze powder, such as powdered Dutch 
foil, mosaic gold, cfcc, laid on with a brush. 
Finish with a thin solution of Castile soap ; 
and, when dry, rub with a soft woolen cloth. 

3327. To Bronze Porcelain, Stone- 
ware, and Composition Picture Frames. 
A bronzing process, applicable to porcelain, 
stoneware, and composition picture and look- 
ing-glass frames is performed as follows : The 
articles are first done over with a thin solution 
of water-glass {see No. 2816) by the aid of a 
fioft brush. Bronze powder is then dusted on, 
and any excess not adherent is knocked off 



by a few gentle taps. The article is next 
heated, to dry the silicate, and the bronze be- 
comes firmly attached. Probablj', in the case 
of porcelain, biscuit, or stoneware, some 
chemical union of the silicate will take place, 
but in other cases the water-glass will only 
tend to make the bronze powder adhere 
to the surface. After the heating, the bronze 
may be polished or burnished with agate 
tools. 

3828. Browning for Gun Barrels. 
Mix 1 ounce each aqua-fortis and sweet spirits 
of nitre; 4 ounces powdered blue vitriol; 2 
ounces tincture of iron, and water, 1\ pints; 
agitate until dissolved. 

Or : Blue vitriol and sweet spirits of nitre, 
of each 1 ounce; water, 1 pint; dissolve as 
last. 

Or : Mix equal parts of butter of antimony 
and sweet oil, and apply the mixture to the 
iron previously warmed. 

3829. To Brown Gun Barrels. The 
gun barrel to be browned must be first pol- 
ished and then rubbed with whiting to remove 
all oily matter. Its two ends should be stop- 
ped vnth wooden rods, which serve as handles, 
and the touch-hole filled with wax. Then rub 
on the solution {see last receipt) with a linen 
rag or sponge till the whole surface is equally 
moistened. Let it remain till the next day, 
then rub it off with a stiff brush. The liquid 
may be again applied until a proper color is 
produced. When this is the case, wash in 
pearlash water, and afterwards in clean water, 
and then polish, either with the burnisher or 
with bees' wax; or apply a coat of shellac 
varnish. (/See JVb. 2954.) 



Chemical Manipulations. 
Some of the operations employed in 
the preparation and use of chemicals have al- 
ready been given at the commencement of this 
book {see No. 1); but, as the work progressed, 
it was deemed advisable, for the sake of 
greater precision, to add further directions for 
special manipulations, and descriptions of in- 
dispensable apparatus. 

3831. Separating Funnels. These are 
glass funnels furnished with a stop-cock, and 
are used for separating mixed fluids of differ- 
ent densities. The mixed liquid is poured tu- 





Fig. 1. 

to the funnel, and, after suflScient time has 
been allowed for the heavier liquid to settle, 
it can be drawn off by opening the stop-cock, 
closing it immediately after the heavy liquid 



356 



CHEMICAL MANIPULATIONS. 



has passed. Fig. 1 represents a separating 
funnel, such as is used for ordinary purposes ; 
but for separating a mixed liquid containing 
other or other volatile fluid, a funnel, closed 
mth a stopper similar in construction to Fig. 
2, is employed to prevent evaporation while 
the heavier liquid is settling. For very small 
quantities a pipette {see No. 3832) is the best 
instrument. 

3832. Pipettes. These are glass instru- 
ments used for measuring liquids in drops, 
and so constructed that the flow of the liquid 
from them is under the complete control of 
the operator. They may be made in 
any form which may be suggested to | 
adapt them to special pui-poses; but i 
pipettes for general use are usually 
constructed as follows : Fig. 1 is an ' 
ordinary pipette, and consists of a small 
cylinder of glass with an upper and 
lower tube, the lower end terminating 
in a fine orifice for the discharge of 
the fluid, and the upper end adapted 
for the finger or thumb, by which the 
outward flow can be instantly arrested. 
This is filled by the suction of the 
mouth. Fig. 2 is made on the same 
principle, having a fine orifice (&), and 
a thumb-hole (a), but fitted with a 
mouth and stopper on the upper side, 
for convenience of filling, or insert- ^,^^ ^ 
ing a measured quantity of liquid. The 
lower side being flat, to allow of the instru- 
ment being laid down without risk of waste 
of contents. 




Fig. 2. 

A pipette afi'ords also a ready means of 
separating two liquids, too small in quanti- 
ty to allow of separation by decantation or 
other methods usually employed. To this 
end, the upper or lower stratum of the mixed 
liquids (oil and water, for instance), may be 
drawn by the mouth into the pipette ; or the 
whole may be sucked into the pipette, and 
the lower stratum allowed to flow out. 

Graduated pipettes of various forms, espe- 
cially useful in acidimetry, <fec., will be found 
described in ISTo. 82. These instruments are 
also useful, and in many cases indispensable, 
in conducting delicate tests. 

3833. Goniometer. An instrument 
used for measuring the angles of crystals. 
The only accurate and simple instrument of 
this kind is the reflective goniometer invented 
by Dr. "Wollaston. 

3834. To Filter Vegetable Juices. 
These should be allowed to deposit their fecu- 
lous matter before filtration. The supernatant 
liquid will often be fomid quite clear ; when 
this is not the case, filtration will be necessary 
through coarse filtering paper. {See No. 17.') 
Some vegetable juices can be made clear 
simply by heating them to 180° to 200° Fahr., 
by which their albumen becomes coagulated. 

Others admit of clarification in th'e same 
manner as syrups. {See No. 1357.) Many of 
these, again, such as hemlock, henbane, aco- 



nite, &G., are greatly injured by heat, and 
must be filtered or decanted after repose. 

3835. To Filter Vegetable Infusions. 

In many instances vegetable infusions and 
decoctions may be clarified by defecation and 
decantation of the clear liquid. A convenient 
method of straining, when that is necessary, 
is by securing the corners of a square piece of 
flannel to a frame, which can be laid over the 
mouth of a pan; or by laying the flannel 
across the mouth of a coarse hair-sieve. Con- 
centrated infusions and decoctions, being 
usually weak tinctures, may be filtered as 
tinctures. {See No. 17.) Yiscid vegetable 
solutions may be clarified {see No. 1357); or 
may be made to filter rapidly by the addition 
of acetic, sulphuric, or other strong acid. 

3836. To Filter Corrosive Liquids. 
Strong acids, <fec., are filtered through pow- 
dered glass or siliceous sand, supported on 
pebbles in the throat of a glass funnel, or 
through asbestos placed in the same manner. 

3837. To Filter Precipitates. When 
filtration is employed to separate precipitated 
matter from the solution in which it is sus- 
pended, the filtering medium should be such 
that the powder may be easily reclaimed from 
it with as little loss as possible. Linen or 
smooth bibulous paper are the best for this 
purpose. A camel-hair pencil should be used, 
if needed, in preference to a knife, to remove 
adhering powder from a filter, and the pre- 
cipitate should be first washed down the 
sides of the filter by a small stream of water, 
so as to collect the most of it to one spot at 
the bottom. 

The first runnings in filtration should al- 
ways be returned to the filter. 

3838. Bunsen's Method of Rapid 
Filtration. A great deal of time is frequent- 
ly lost in washing precipitates, by having to 
wait for the liquid to pass through a filter. 
Bunsen's improvement consists in fixing the 
filtering funnel air-tight, by means of a per- 
forated cork in the neck of a bottle which 
has an opening connected with the receiver 
of an air-pump. By exhausting the air in the 
bottle, the liquid will run faster through the 
filter in proportion to the diminution of the 
pressure in the bottle. Comparative experi- 
ments, some made according to the old, and 
others according to the new method, showing 
that the filtration, washing, and drying of a 
precipitate, which took 7 hours by the old 
plan, could be performed, by filtration into 
an exhausted bottle, in 13 minutes. 

3839. Filtering Powders. In many 
cases a liquid will not readily become trans- 
parent by simply passing through the filter ; 
hence has arisen the use of filtering powders, 
substances which rapidly choke up the pores 
of the media in a sufficient degree to make 
the fluid pass clear. These powders should 
not be in too fine a state of division, nor used 
in large quantities, as they then wholly choke 
up the filter, and absorb a large quantity of 
the liquid. For some liquids these sub- 
stances are employed for the purpose of 
decoloring or whitening them. In such cases, 
it is preferable first to pass the fluid through 
a layer of the substance in coarse powder, 
from which it will run but slightly contami- 
nated into the filters : or, if the substance be 
mixed with the whole body of the liquid, U> 



CHEMICAL MANIPULATIONS. 



357 



pass it through some coarser medium, to re- 
move the cruder portion, before allowing it to 
run into the filter. Fuller's earth, pipe clay, 
or potter's clay, washed, dried without heat, 
and reduced to coarse powder, are used to 
filter and bleach oils. 

Fuller's earth or clay, 1 part, and 2 parts 
fine silicious sand, first separately washed and 
drained, then mixed together and dried, con- 
otitutes a filtering powder well adapted for 
glutinous oils. 

Granulated animal charcoal, sifted and 
fanned free from dust, is used to filter and 
bleach syrups and vegetable solutions. 

Carbonate of magnesia and powdered glass, 
or pumice stcme, are used for filtering weak 
alcoholic solutions of essential oils, and in the 
preparation of perfumed waters. {See Nos. 
976, 1029, 1080, and 1081.) 

3840. Self-Feeding Filter. It is usu- 
ally a matter of more or less importance in 
filtration, that the filter should be kept full. 
To effect this requires unremitting attention, 
which, when the filtration occupies a consid- 




erable time, is at least tedious. By the use 
of a simple apparatus, this is avoided, and 
filtration will continue, without any personal 
attention, until the operation is complete. A 
bottle or jar, of sufficient capacity to contain 
the liquid to be filtered, is placed in a conve- 
nient position, above the level of the filter 
{see illustration)) through the cork, which 
must fit air-tight, are inserted two bent tubes; 
one end of the tube & must reach nearly to 
the bottom of the jar, the other end descend- 
ing deep into the filter; the tube a terminates 
at one end just below the cork of the jar, the 
outer end being adjusted in the filter at the 
height which it is desired that the liquid shall 
be kept at in the filter. The apparatus is set 
in working order by sucking the liquid into 
the tube &, so as to fill it. The liquid will 
continue to flow until its surface in the filter 
rises sufficiently to reach to and close the end 
of the tube a, cutting off the ingress of air 
into the bottle, and thus stopping the further 
flow, until, by the faUing of the filtrate into 
the TBSsel placed to receive it, the liquid in 



the filter again sinks below the tube a, and 
allows the flow to be resumed until again 
stopped as before. {See No. 17, Fig. 6.) 

3841. Chemical Washing. When pre 
cipitation takes place, the deposit requires to 
undergo edulcoration, or cleansing from the 
liquid from which it was precipitated, "^^^ith 
heavy and bulky precipitates, this is done by 
repeated washing, and, after the deposit hasi 
again settled, decantation of the supernatant 
liquid {see No. 3847); but when the powder 
is light, and separates with less facility from 
the liquid, the washing is better performed by 
a continuous stream of water passing through 
a filter on which the precipitate has been pre- 
viously collected. The apparatus employed 
for a self-feeding filter {see No. 3840) is ad- 
mirably adapted for this pui-pose. Lixiviation, 
or the separation of soluble matter from an 
insoluble powder, can be performed in the 
same way. {See Nos. 14, 23, and 32.) 

3842. Chemical Drying. In order to 
deprive chemical substances of water or moist- 
ure, the simplest means is evaporation. This 
may be performed either by merely exposure 
in open shallow vessels to the natural action of 
a dry atmosphere, called spontaneous evapora- 
tion ; or by the application of heat, either di- 
rectly or by a water-bath, Sdc. {see No. 12) ; 
this is not always advisable or necessary, as 
some substances undergo change by heat, and 
must be dried by other moans. By enclosing 
the substance to be dried in a box or drying- 
chamber in which is placed an open vessel 
containing strong sulphuric acid or chloride 
of calcium, the strong affinity for water that 
these substances possess, keeps the air per- 
fectly dry, and absorbs the moisture from it as 
fast as the water evaporates from the material 
which is being dried. The water of crystal- 
line bodies is usually driven out by exp'^osing 
the crystals in a capsule or evaporating dish 
to heat, only just sufficient being applied to 
effect the purpose. Some crystals part with 
their water of crystallization spontaneously 
by exposure to the air, crumbling into pow- 
der; such crystals are called efflorescent, to 
distinguish them from those deliquescent crys- 
talline bodies which spontaneously liquefy or 
dissolve in their own water of crystallization. 
Others will yield their water in an artificially 
dried atmosphere, as above stated; while 
many have sufficient affinity for water to re- 
tain it until driven off by heat, more or less 
intense. Crystalline substances which have 
been deprived of the water of crystallization, 
that is, have undergone desiccation, are said 
to be dry. 

3843. Decarbonization. This operation 
is performed on cast iron, to convert it into 
steel or soft iron. The articles to be decar- 
bonized are packed in finely-powdered hema- 
tite, or native oxide of iron, to which iron 
filings are often added, and exposed for some 
time to a strong red heat, by which the excess 
of carbon is abstracted or burnt out. The 
process somewhat resembles annealing or 
cementation. 

3844. Decoloration. The blanching or 
loss of the natural color of any substance. 
Syrups, and many animal, vegetable, and 
saline solutions, are decolored or whitened by 
agitation with animal charcoal, and subse- 
quent subsidence or filtration. Many fluids 



358 



ACIDS. 



rapidly lose their natural color by exposure 
to light, especially the direct rays of the sun. 
In this way, castor, nut, poppy, and several 
other oils are whitened. Fish oils are par- 
tially deodorized and decolored by filtration 
through animal charcoal. {See No. 3839.) 
By the joint action of light, air, and moisture, 
cottons and linens are commonly bleached. 
The peculiar way in which light produces 
this effect has never been satisfactorily ex- 
plained. The decoloration of textile fabrics 
and solid bodies, generally, is called bleach- 
ing. 

3845. Defecation. In chemistry, the 
separation of a liquid from its lees, dregs, or 
impurities. This is usually performed by 
subsidence and decantation, and is commonly 
applied to the purification of saline solutions, 
on the large scale, in preference to filtration, 
than which it is both more expeditious and 
inexpensive. 

3846. Neutralization. The admixtm-e 
of an alkali or base with an acid in such pro- 
portions that neither shall predominate. A 
neutral compound neither turns turmeric pa- 
per brown, nor litmus paper red. The term 
saturation is also applied to complete neutral- 
ization {see No. 27) ; but saturation has two 
distinct meanings; chemically, it denotes that 
a given alkali has been neutralized completely 
by an acid, or vice versa. Pharmaceutically, 
it implies that a given solvent is charged to 
its utmost capacity with an active ingredient; 
this point is, however, so difficult to determine, 
that the term is scarcely ever applied accu- 
rately. 

3847. Edulcoration. The affusion of 
Water on any substance for the purpose of 
removing the portion soluble in that fluid. 
Edulcoration is usually performed by agitating 
or triturating the article with water, and re- 
moving the latter after subsidence, by decan- 
tation or filtration. It is the method com- 
monly adopted to purify precipitates and other 
powders which are insoluble in water. 

3848. Rectification. A second distilla- 
tion of a fluid, for the purpose of rendering it 
purer. In rectifying alcohol containing wa- 
ter, the distillation is conducted at a tempera- 
ture high enough to evaporate the alcohol and 
cause it to distill over into the receiver, but 
not high enough to boil the water, the greater 
part of which, therefore, remains behind in 
the body of the still. It is diflicult to obtain 
an anhydrous product without employing 
some agent having a strong affinity for water. 

3849. Calcination. The separation or 
expulsion, by heat, of volatile from fixed 
matter. By this means crystalline salts are 
obtained in a dry or anhytirous form, by de- 
priving them of their water of crystallization ; 
in this particular, the process is similar to 
desiccation. {See No. 12.) Calcination is 
also employed for the ignition of silica, &c., 
in order to render it more easily reducible to 
fragments or powder. 

The operation of calcining is conducted on 
the small scale in platinum spoons or cruci- 
bles, and heat applied by the flame of a spirit 
lamp, or other appropriate means. "When 
large quantities of matter are calcined, metal 
or earthenware crucibles and the heat of a 
furnace are employed. Charcoal is thus ob- 
tained from wood, bone-black from bones, &q. 



3850. Ignition. The heating of a sub- 
stance to redness. It is especially resorted 
to for the calcination of a substance at a 
high degree of heat. {See No. 3849.) 

3851. To Bend Glass Tubes. Small 
glass tubes may be bent over the flame of a 
spirit lamp ; for larger tubes, the heat of a 
blow-pipe flame is necessary. The tube 
should be heated to a dull red about an inch 
either way beyond the point of curvature, by 
revolving it in the flame; as soon as the glass 
begins to yield, bend the tube very gradually 
until curved as desired. Stopping one end of 
the tube, and blowing into the other while 
bending it, will prevent wrinkling or collaps- 
ing at the point of curvature. It requires 
some tact to bend a tube with an even curve 
and without collapsing its sides; and it is 
recommended by an experienced chemist to 
use a Bunsen burner, having the extremity 
flattened out so as to give a short and thin, 
but broad flame, something like the flame of 
an ordinary gas burner. The tube is placed 
in this flame and turned around until a good 
heat is given to the tube; it is then withdrawn 
from the flame and bent, when it does so with 
a perfect curve and no collapse on the sides of 
the tube. Of course this is only intended for 
the smaller tubes, but a tube of one-third of 
an inch and more can be thus bent very 
readilv. 

3852. To Find the Dry Weight of a 
Pulp or Moist Precipitate. Pulps or pre- 
cipitates, such as the metallic colors, chrome 
yellow, white lead, <fec., are of different con- 
sistence at the top from what they are at or 
near the bottom of the vessel in which they 
are contained ; and the actual weight of the 
precipitate in the dry state can therefore not 
be arrived at by merely taking a sample from 
top or bottom, but, in most cases, only guessed 
at. "When, however, the specific gravity of 
such a precipitate in its dry state is known, as 
well as that of the surrounding liquid, the 
operation of obtaining the accurate dry 
weight of the same while in pulp can be re- 
duced to the simple manipulation of weighing 
it in a vessel. Find the weight of a vessel 
full of the pulp ; then weigh the same vessel 
full of the same liquid that the pulp is moist- 
ened with, and note down the difference be- 
tween the weights. IsText divide this differ- 
ence of weight by the difference between the 
specific gravities of the pulp and the liquid ; 
lastly add this quotient to the difference of 
weight already noted down, and the sum will 
be the dry weight of the pulp. 



A° 



CidS. An acid in chemistry is any 
electro-negative compound, capable of 
combining in definite proportions with bases 
to form salts. Most of the liquid acids pos- 
sess a sour taste, and redden litmus paper. 
The acids have been variously classed by dif- 
ferent writers, as into organic and inorganic; 
metallic and non-metallic; oxygen acids, hy- 
drogen acids, and acids destittite of either of 
these elements; the names being applied ac- 
cording to the kingdom of nature, or class of 
bodies to which the radical belonged, or after 
the element which was presumed to be the 



A CIDS. 



359 



acidifying principle. Acids are in various 
forms; some are gaseous, as carbonic acid; 
Rome are liquid, as nitric and acetic acid; 
others are solid, as citric and oxalic acid ; 
others again under peculiar conditions assume 
more than one of these forms. Acids, \vhich 
are soluble or liquid, are corrosive, and more 
or less poisonous when concentrated. They 
change vegetable blues to red and neutralize 
the effects of alkalies on vegetable blues and 
yellows. Most of the acids are soluble in 
water in all proportions ; they neutralize the 
alkalies, effervesce with the carbonates, and 
combine with the bases generally, forming 
compounds called salts. The methods for es- 
timating the strength or neutralizing power 
of acids, as well as the strength of their so- 
lutions, will be found under Acidimetrt, Xo. 
78. The names of the acids end either in 
-icor -ous; the former being given to that con- 
taining the larger portion of the electro-nega- 
tive element, or oxygen, and the latter to 
that containing the smaller quantity. As 
sulphuric acid, an acid of sulphur, containing 
3 atoms of oxygen; sulphurous acid, another 
sulphur acid, containing only 2 atoms of oxy- 
gen. When a base forms more than 2 acid 
compounds with oxygen, the G-reek preposi- 
tion hypo is added to that containing the 
smaller portion, as hyposulphuric and hypo- 
sulphurous acids. The prepositions per, hyper, 
and the syllable oxy are also prefixed to the 
names of acids when it is intended to denote 
an increase of oxygen, as hypernitrous acid, 
perchloric acid, oxymuriatic acid, &c. The 
prefix hydro to the name of an acid denotes 
that the acid combination is with hydrogen, 
and not with oxygen. All the strong liquid 
acids should be kept in glass bottles, furnished 
with perfectly tight ground-glass stoppers; 
glass vessels should be used in measuring 
them, and they should be dispensed in stop- 
pered vials. Fluoric acid must be kept in a 
bottle made of lead, silver, platinum, or pure 
gutta-percha, as it acts readily on glass. In 
the combination of acids with bases to form 
salts, distinctive terminations are employed to 
denote the kind of acid present. The"^name 
of a salt of an acid ending in -ic, terminates in 
-ate ; thus, sulphate of soda, formed from sul- 
phuric acid and soda. The name of a salt of 
an acid ending in -ous, terminates in -ite ; as 
sulphite of lime, formed from sulphuro?<s acid 
and lime. The names of compounds formed 
by the union of non-metallic elements, and 
certain other bodies, with the metals or with 
each other, termina'te in -ide ox -uret ; thus, 
sulphide or sulphuret of silver, formed of sil- 
ver and sulphur. (Cooley.) In accordance 
with the scope of this work it has been found 
advisable to omit a number of acids, both 
simple and compound, of limited practical 
use ; the selection being confined to acids of 
more general utility and adaptation to practi- 
cal purposes. 

3854. Sulphuric Acid. This is a color- 
less, odorless acid, and highly con'osive 
liquid, formed by the union of 1 equivalent of 
sulphur and 3 of oxygen. It is immediately 
colored by contact with organic matter. It 
attracts water so rapidly from the atmosphere, 
when freely exposed to it, as to absorb | 
its weight in 24 hours ; and, under continued 
exposure, wiU absorb 6 times its weight. 



I "WTien 4 parts water are suddenly mixed with 

1 part sulphuric acid, the temperature of the 
' mixture rises to about 300° Fahr. Whilst 4 

parts pounded ice mixed with 1 part acid, 

sinks the thermometer to some degrees below 

zero. Sulphuric acid boils and distills over at 

j 620° Fahr., and freezes at about 20° below 

I zero. The salts formed by the union of 

; sulphuric acid with a base are caUed sul- 

i PHATES. 

j 3855. To Obtain Commercial Sul- 
phuric Acid. This is commonly called oil 
of vitriol, and has a specific gravity not less 
! than 1.840, nor more than 1.845. It was first 
I obtained by the distillation of green vitriol 
I (sulphate of iron), but it is now made by bring- 
I ing the fumes of sulphurous acid (see Xo. 
I 3865) into contact with those evolved from a 
' mixture of nitre and oil of vitriol, so that the 
I former becomes oxidized at the expense of the 
latter. This process is conducted in a series 
[ of leaden chambers, having a little water on 
1 the floor, to absorb the acid, and so arranged 
I as to prevent the loss of gas. As soon as the 
water is found to have acquired a specific 
gravity of 1.350 to 1.450, it is drawn off, and 
concentrated (see Xo. 8) in leaden boilers to 
I a density of 1.659 to 1.700; after which it is 
further concentrated in green glass or platinum 
1 retorts until the specific gravity reaches 1.842 
to 1.844. TVTien cold, the clear acid is put 
into carboys (large globular bottles of green 
glass) packed securely with straw in strong- 
1 wooden cases, the neck being left exposed 
for convenience in obtaining the acid without 
unpacking. 

3856. Anhydrous Sulphuric Acid, 
Anhydrous or dry sulphuric acid is obtained 
by heating Xordhausen acid (see Xo. 3858) in 
a glass retort connected with a weU-cooled 

I receiver. 

It is also prepared in the following manner: 

2 parts strongest oil of vitriol are gradually 
added to 3 parts anhydrous phosphoric acid, 
contained in retort surrounded by a freezing 
mixture ; when the compound has become 
brown, the retort is removed from the freezing- 
bath and connected with a receiver which 
takes its place in the freezing mixture; a 
gentle heat is applied to the retort, when 
white vapors pass over and condense in the 
receiver under the form of beautiful silky 
crystals. The product equals in weight that 
of the phosphonis originally employed. The 

I addition of a few dfops of water to these 
crystals produces a dangerous explosion. 
They deliquesce rapidly and fume in the air ; 
introduced into water, they hiss like red-hot 
iron. They melt at 66° Fahr., and boil at 
about 1050°, and do not redden dry litmus 
paper. 

3857. Dilute Sulphuric Acid. The 
officinal strength of this acid, according to 
the U. S. Pharmacopoeia, is thus obtained : 
Take 2 troy ounces sulphuric acid ; add 
gradually to it 14 fluid ounces distilled water ; 
filter through paper, and pass sufficient dis- 
tilled water through the filter to make the 
diluted acid measure 1 pint. The specific 
gravity of this mixture is 1.082. The officinal 
strength of the British Pharmacopoeia is 
somewhat greater; sufficient distilled water 
is added to 1350 grains sulphuric acid, so that, 
after it has been shaken and cooled down to 



360 



ACIDS. 



<60° Fahr., it measures 1 imperial pint. The 
specific gravity of this is 1.094, 
8858. Nordhausen Sulphuric Acid. 

This is also known as fuming sulphuric acid. 
It is a brown, oily liquid^ which fumes in the 
air, is intensely con'osiye, and has a specific 
^avity of about 1.900, and is chiefly used for 
•dissolving indigo. It is prepared by distilling 
calcined sulphate of iron (green vitriol) in an 
(earthen retort. 

3859. Table Showing the Percentage 
of Liquid and Dry Sulphuric Acid in 
J>ilute Acid at Different Densities. 



Liquid. 


Sp. Gr. 


Dry. 


Liquid. 


Sp. Gr. 


Dry. 


1 100 


1.8485 


81.54 


50 


1.3884 


40.77 


99 


1.8475 


80.72 


49 


1.3788 


39.95 


< 98 


1.8460 


79.90 


48 


1.3697 


39.14 


' 97 


1.8439 


79.09 


47 


1.3612 


38.32 


i 96 


1.8410 


78.28 


46 


1.3530 


37.51 


95 


1.8376 


77.46 


45 


1.3440 


36.69 


94 


1.8336 


76.65 


44 


1.3345 


35.88 


93 


1.8290 


75.83 


43 


1.3255 


35.06 


92 


1.8233 


75.02 


42 


1.3165 


34.25 


91 


1.8179 


74.20 


41 


1.3080 


33.43 


90 


1.8115 


73.39 


40 


1.2999 


32.61 


89 


1.8043 


72.57 


39 


1.2913 


31.80 


- 88 


1.7962 


71.75 


38 


1.2826 


30.98 


87 


1.7870 


70.94 


37 


1.2740 


30.17 


86 


1.7774 


70.12 


36 


1.2654 


29.35 


85 


1.7673 


69.31 


35 


1.2572 


28.54 


84 


1.7570 


68.49 


34 


1.2490 


27.72 


83 


1.7465 


67.68 


33 


1.2409 


26.9] 


82 


1.7360 


66.86 


32 


1.2334 


26.09 


81 


1.7245 


66.05 


31 


1.2260 


25.28 


80 


1.7120 


65.23 


30 


1.2184 


24.46 


79 


1.6993 


64.42 


29 


1.2108 


23.65 


78 


1.6870 


63.60 


28 


1.2032 


22.83 


77 


1.6750 


62.78 


27 


1.1956 


22.01 


76 


1.6630 


61.97 


26 


1.1876 


21.20 


75 


1.6520 


61.15 


25 


1.1792 


20.38 


74 


1.6415 


60.34 


24 


1.1706 


19.57 


73 


1.6321 


59.52 


23 


1.1626 


18.75 


72 


1.6204 


58.71 


22 


1.1549 


17.94 


71 


1.6090 


57.89 


21 


1.1480 


17.12 


70 


1.5975 


57.08 


20 


1.1410 


16.31 


69 


1.5868 


56.26 


19 


1.1330 


15.49 


! 68 


1.5760 


55.45 


18 


1.1246 


14.63 


67 


1.5648 


54.63 


17 


1.1165 


13.86 


66 


1.5503 


53.82 


16 


1.1090 


13.05 


65 


1.5390 


53.00 


15 


1.1019 


12.23 


64 


1.5280 


52.18 


14 


1.0953 


11.60 


63 


1.5170 


51.37 


13 


1.0887 


10.41 


62 


1.5066 


50.55 


12 


1.0809 


9.78 


61 


1.4960 


49.74 


11 


1.0743 


8.97 


60 


1.4860 


48.92 


10 


1.0682 


8.15 


59 


1.4760 


48.11 


9 


1.0614 


7.34 


58 


1.4660 


47.29 


'? 


1.0544 


6.52 


: 57 


1.4560 


46.48 


1.0477 


5.71 


56 


1.4460 


45.66 


6 


1.0405 


4.89 


55 


1.4360 


44.85 


5 


1.0336 


4.08 


54 


1.4265 


44.03 


4 


1.0268 


3.26 


53 


1.4170 


43.22 


3 


1.0206 


2.446 


52 


1.4073 


42.40 


2 


1.0140 


1.63 


51 


1.3977 


41,58 


1 


1.0074 


0.8154 



3860. To Purify Oil of Vitriol. Com- 
mercial sulphuric acid frequently contains 
nitrous acid, arsenic, and saline matter. 
These impurities must be removed in order to 
obtain the acid in any high degree of purity. 

Nitrous acid is removed by adding about 
IJ grains sugar to each fluid ounce of the 



sulphuric acid, heated to nearly its boiling 
point, and continuing the heat until the dark 
color at first produced disappears, whei. H 
should be distilled. Another method is by 
adding i to ^ of 1 per cent, of sulphate of 
ammonia to the acid, and heating to ebullition 
for a few minutes. In this way the most 
impure acid may be rendered absolutely free 
from nitric acid and nitrous oxide. 

Arsenic can be got rid of by adding a little 
sulphuret of barium, or of copper foil, to the 
acid, agitating the mixture well, and, after 
repose, decanting or distilling it. 

Saline matter may be removed by simply 
redistilling {rectification.) The distillation 
is best conducted on the small scale, in a 
glass retort containing a few platinum chips, 
heated by a sand-bath or gas flame, rejecting 
the first i fluid ounce that comes over. 

3861. Test for Nitric Acid in Sul- 
phuric Acid. Place in a watch glass a 
small portion pure and concentrated sulphuric 
acid at a density of 1.84; then pour, drop by 
drop, half the quantity of a solution of sulphate 
of aniline, prepared by mixing commercial 
aniline with diluted sulphuric acid. A glass 
rod is dipped in the liquid to be tested, and 
then stirred in the contents of the watch 
glass ; from time to time the experimenter 
should blow slowly on the agitated liquid; 
if the liquid thus stirred contains traces of 
nitric acid, circular lines of a deep red are 
soon visible, coloring the whole liquid to a 
pink. On adding a very small quantity of 
nitric acid to the mixture, the liquid becomes 
of a carmine color ; the addition of a single 
drop of very dilute nitric acid renders the 
liquid a deep red, and afterwards a dead red. 

3862. To Remove Nitric Acid from 
Sulphuric Acid. Diluted sulphuric acid 
may be deprived of any small quantity of 
nitric acid it may contain, by shaking it up 
for a few minutes with a little powdered 
(freshly burned) charcoal, and afterwards 
filtering it. This will not answer for concen- 
trated sulphuric acid ; nitric acid is separated 
from it with great difficulty, and only by very 
protracted methods. 

3863. To Decolorize Sulphuric Acid. 
Acid which has become brown by exposure 
may be decolorized by heating it gently ; the 
carbon of the organic substances is thus con- 
verted into carbonic acid. 

3864. Sulphurous Acid. This acid is 
used to bleach silks, woolens, &c., {see No. 
1716), and to remove vegetable stains and 
iron-moulds from linen. For these purposes 
it is prepared from sawdust, or any other 
refuse carbonaceous matter. The salts formed 
by the combination of sulphurous acid with a 
base are called sulphites. {See Nos. 1717 
and 1718.) 

3865. To Obtain Sulphurous Acid. 
In the gaseous form this acid is freely evolved 
by burning sulphur in air or in dry oxygen. 
It is also given ofl" during the digestion of 
metals in hot sulphuric acid. "When charcoal, 
wood, or cork chips, or sawdust are digested 
in hot sulphuric acid, a mixture of sulphurous 
and carbonic acids is obtained, which is used 
for bleaching and cleansing purposes. 

3866. Pure Gaseous Sulphurous 
Acid. This is evolved during the action of 
sulphuric acid on mercury or clippings of 



ACIDS. 



861 



copper. It is also obtained pure by heating 
in a glass retort, a mixture of 100 parts black 
oxide of manganese, and 12 or 14 parts sul- 
phur. The gas evolved should be collected in 
a receiver over mercury. 

3867. Sulphurous Acid Solution. 
The gas obtained according to the last method 
is to be passed through water, which is capa- 
ble of dissolving or absorbing 30 times its 
bulk of the gas. To avoid waste in preparing 
the solution, the unabsorbed gas which es- 
capes from the water is usually again passed 
through water, and the same arrangement re- 
peated through a series of vessels of water so 
long a-^ any gas escapes undissolved. 

3868. Pure Sulphurous Acid. In 
order to prepare sulphurous acid from sul- 
phuric acid and charcoal, it is better to em- 
ploy an acid of .74 per cent., or 1.825 specific 
gravity. If we take a stronger acid, a part of 
it is entirely deoxidized to sulphur, and if 
weaker acid be employed, sulphuretted hy- 
drogen is evolved. To obtain absolutely pure 
sulphurous acid, it is well to put sulphite of 
lead and coarse charcoal in the wash bottle. 
With these precautions, it is possible to ob- 
tain pure sulphurous acid from sulphuric 
acid and charcoal. 

3869. Pure Liquid Sulphurous Acid. 
This can only be obtained by passing the pure 
dry gas through a glass tube surrounded by a 
powerful freezing mixture. The specific 
gravity of the pure liquid gas is 1.45; its 
boiling point is 14° Fahr., and causes intense 
cold by its evaporation. 

3870. Hydrosulphuric Acid, also 
Called Sulphuretted Hydrogen. When 
sulphur acts upon paraffine at a temperature a 
little above the melting point of sulphur, hy- 
drosulphuric acid gas is evolved in large 
quantities, and this method may be advan- 
tageously used for its generation in the la- 
boratory. A flask, holding about a pound of 
the material, is fitted with a tube bent at 
right angles, about k inch bore and 12 to 18 
inshes long, containing cotton wool, and to 
this is attached the small tube for precipita- 
tion. The production of gas may be stopped 
by removing the heat. Heavy paraffine oil, 
stearic acid, or suet, may be used as a substi- 
tute for paraffine. 

3871. Nitro-Sulphuric Acid. Dissolve 

1 part nitre in 9 parts sulphuric acid. This is 
used to separate the silver from the copper 
and solder of old plated goods. At about 
200° Fahr. it readily dissolves silver, but 
scarcely acts on copper, lead, or tin, unless 
iJiluted, or assisted by a much higher tempera- 
ture. 

3872. Nitric Acid. There are five com- 
pounds of nitrogen and oxygen. The union 
of 1 equivalent of nitrogen with 1 of oxygen 
produces nitrous oxide, or laughing gas; with 

2 oxygen, nitric oxide; with 3 oxygen, ni- 
trous acid; with 4 oxygen, hyponitric acid; 
and with 5 equivalents of oxygen, nitric acid. 
Pure liquid nitric acid is colorless, highly cor- 
rosive, and possesses powerful acid properties. 
It is employed in assaying, to dye silk and 
woolens yellow, and to form various salts. In 
medicine, it is used as a caustic, &c. The 
officinal strength of nitric acid of the TJ. S. 
and British pharmacopoeias has a specific 
gravity of 1.42, and boils at 250° Fahr. 



Mtric acid of less density than 1.42 parts 
with water and becomes stronger at lower 
temperatures; but acid of higher specific 
gravity is weakened by exposure to heat. It 
freezes when exposed to extreme cold. It 
rapidly oxidizes the metals, and unites with 
them and the other bases, forming salts 
called jSTiTRATES. Two strengths of this acid 
occur in the arts, known as double and sin- 
gle aqua-fortis. Double aqua-fortis has usually 
a specific gravity of 1.36, and single, or ordin- 
ary aqua-fortis 1.22. Both are frequently sold 
at lower strengths. This can easily be ascer- 
tained by acidimetry. {See No. 78.) 

3873. To Obtain Nitric Acid. The 
usual method adopted for obtaining this acid 
is to add to nitrate of potassa in coarse pow- 
der, contained in a glass retort, an equal 
weight of strong sulphuric acid, poured in 
through a funnel, so as not to wet the neck of 
the retort. The materials should not exceed 
two-thirds of the capacity of the retort. A 
moderate heat is at first applied, increasing as 
the materials begin to thicken. Ked vapors 
will at first arise and pass over into the re- 
ceiver ; these will disappear in the course of 
the distillation, but subsequently renewed, 
showing that the process is completed. The 
pale yellow acid thus obtained may be ren- 
dered colorless, if desired, by heating it gently 
in a retort. 

3874. To Purify Nitric Acid. The 
nitric acid of commerce frequently contains 
chlorine, muriatic and sulphuric acids, and 
sometimes iodine, from which it may be puri- 
fied by the addition of a little nitrate of sil- 
ver, as long as it produces any cloudiness, and, 
after repose, decanting the clear acid, and 
rectifying it at a heaf under 212° Fahr. A 
perfectly colorless product may be obtained, 
by introducing a small portion of pure black 
oxide of mauganese into the retort. Nitric 
acid may also be purified by rectification at a 
gentle heat, rejecting the first liquid that 
comes over, receiving the middle portion as 
genuine acid, and leaving a residuum in the 
retort. Another method is to agitate it with 
a little red-lead before rectification. 

3875. Tests for Nitric Acid. It stains 
the skin yellow. When mixed with a little 
muriatic acid or sal-ammoniac, it acquires the 
power of dissolving gold leaf. When mixed 
with dilute sulphuric acid, and poured on a 
few fragments of zinc or iron in a tube, the 
evolved gas burns with a greeni.^h white 
flame. Substitute alcohol for zinc in the last 
test. Morphia, brucia, and strychnia give it 
a red color, which is heightened by ammonia 
in excess. When placed in a tube, and a so- 
lution of protosulphate of iron cautiously add- 
ed, a dark color is developed at the line of 
junction, which is distinctly visible when only 
YTDTJir part of nitric acid is present. When 
mixed with a weak solution of sulphate of in- 
digo, and heated, the color is destroyed. 

3876. Dilute Nitric Acid. Mix 3 troy 
ounces nitric acid specific gravity 1.42 in a 
glass vessel with sufficient distilled water to 
make the dilute acid measure 1 pint. The 
specific gravity of officinal dilute nitric acid is 
1.068, U. S. Dis. 

3877. Fuming; Nitric Acid. The red 
fuming nitrous or nitric acid of commerce is 
simply nitric acid loaded with nitrous or hy- 



862 



ACIDS. 



ponitric acid. It may be thus prepared : Put 
into an iron or stoneware pot, nitre or nitrate 
of soda, add rather more than half its weight 
of strong sulphuric acid, and lute on a stone- 
ware head. The vapor is conducted into a 
series of two-necked stoneware vessels, con- 
taining each ^ of their capacity of water. 
The acid is usually obtained of the density of 
about 1.45. It is colored with nitrous acid 
gas, forming what is commonly, but improp- 
erly, termed nitrous acid. By gently heating 
the colored acid in a retort, the nitrous acid is 
driven off, and the acid remains nearly 
colorless, usually of the density of 1.38 to 
1.42. 

3878. Tire's Table of Percentage of 
Nitric Acid. This table is useful for finding 
the strength of dilute acids. 



Specific 


Liq. 


Dry Acid 


Specific 


Liq. 

A /-.i/l 


Dry Acid 


Gravity. 


ACICI 

in 100. 


in 100. 


Gravity. 


ACIQ 

in 100. 


in 100. 


1.5000 


100 


79.700 


1.2947 


50 


39.850 


1.4980 


99 


78.903 


1.2887 


49 


39.053 


1.4960 


98 


78.106 


1.2826 


48 


38.256 


1.4940 


97 


77.309 


1.2765 


47 


37.459 


1.4910 


96 


76.512 


1.2705 


46 


36.662 


1.4880 


95 


75.715 


1.2644 


45 


35.865 


1.4850 


94 


74.918 


1.2583 


44 


35.068 


1.4820 


93 


74.121 


1.2523 


43 


34.271 


1.4790 


92 


73.324 


1.2462 


42 


33.474 


1.4760 


91 


72.527 


1.2402 


41 


32.677 


1.4730 


90 


71.730 


1.2341 


40 


31.880 


1.4700 


89 


70.933 


1.2277 


39 


31.083 


1.4670 


88 


70.136 


1.2212 


38 


30.286 


1.4640 


87 


69.339 


1.2148 


37 


29.489 


1.4600 


86 


68.542 


1.2084 


36 


28.692 


1.4570 


85 


67.745 


1.2019 


35 


27.895 


1.4530 


84 


66.948 


1.1958 


34 


27.098 


1.4500 


83 


66.155 


1.1895 


33 


26.301 


1.4460 


82 


65.3.54 


1.1833 


32 


25.504 


1.4424 


81 


64.557 


1.1770 


31 


24.707 


1.4385 


80 


63.760 


1.1709 


30 


23.900 


1.4346 


79 


62.963 


1.1648 


29 


23.113 


1.4306 


78 


62.166 


1.1587 


28 


22.316 


1.4269 


77 


61.369 


1.1526 


27 


21.519 


1.4228 


76 


60.572 


1.1465 


26 


20.722 


1.4189 


75 


59.755 


1.1403 


25 


19.925 


1.4147 


74 


58.978 


1.1345 


24 


19.128 


1.4107 


73 


58.181 


1.1286 


23 


18.331 


1.4065 


72 


57.384 


1.1227 


22 


17.534 


1.4023 


71 


56.587 


1.1168 


21 


16.737 


1.3978 


70 


55.790 


1.1109 


20 


15.940 


1.3945 


69 


54.993 


1.1051 


19 


15.143 


1.3882 


68 


54.196 


1.0993 


18 


14.346 


1.3833 


67 


53.399 


1.0935 


17 


13.549 


1.3783 


66 


52.602 


1.0878 


16 


12.752 


1.3732 


65 


51.805 


1.0821 


15 


11.955 


1.3681 


64 


51.068 


1.0764 


14 


11.158 


1.3630 


63 


50.211 


1.0708 


13 


10.361 


1.3579 


62 


49.414 


1.0651 


12 


9.564 


1.3529 


61 


48.617 


1.0595 


11 


8.767 


1.3477 


60 


47.820 


1.0540 


10 


7.970 


1.3427 


59 


47.023 


1.0485 


9 


7.173 


1.3376 


58 


46.226 


1.0430 


8 


6.376 


1.3323 


57 


45.429 


1.0375 


7 


5.579 


1.3270 


56 


44.632 


1.0320 


6 


4.782 


1.3216 


55 


43.835 


1.0267 


5 


3.985 


1.3163 


54 


43.038 


1.0212 


4 


3.188 


1.3110 


53 


42.241 


1.0159 


3 


2.391 


1.3056 


52 


41.444 


1.0106 


2 


1.594 


1.3001 


51 


40.647 


1.0053 


1 


0.797 



3879. Nitro-Muriatic Acid. Aqua 
regia. This is used in the arts, chiefly as a 



solvent for gold. By the mutual action of 
nitric and muriatic acids a compound of 
chlorine, nitrogen, and oxygen is formed. 
The best proportions and strength of the acids 
are variously stated. Colorless nitric acid 
must be used. Elkington employs 21 parts 
of nitric acid, specific gravity 1.45 ; 17 parts 
of muriatic acid 1.15 specific gravity; and 14 
parts of water. This dissolves 5 parts of 
gold. (See No, 3588.) According to Cooley 
this acid is prepared by mixing 1 part by 
measure nitric ftcid and 2 parts hydrochloric 
acid. The mixture should be kept in a bottle 
in a cold and dark place. (See No. 3193.) 
With a base, this compound acid forms a 

NITRO-MURIATE. 

3880. Dyer's Aqua-Fortis. Another 
mixture of nitric and hydrochloric acids, 
known as Dyer's aqua-fortis, is used by dyers, 
as it dissolves tin without oxidizing it. Mix 
10 pounds colorless nitric acid, specific gravity 
1.17, with 1 pound hydrochloric acid 1.19. 

3881. Dilute Nitro-Muriatic Acid. 
Mix I5 troy ounces nitric acid, and 2i troy 
ounces muriatic acid in a pint bottle. Shake 
occasionally during 24 hours, and add dis- 
tilled water to make up to 1 pint. Keep in a 
cool place, protected from the light. ( U. S. 
Ph.) 

3882. Muriatic or Hydrochloric Acid. 
Pure muriatic acid is a colorless invisible gas, 
having a pungent odor and an acid taste, and 
fuming on coming into contact with air. It is 
irrespirable and uninflammable. Its specific 
gravity is 1.2695. TJnder a pressure of 40 
atmospheres it is liquid. "Water at 40° Fahr. 
absorbs 480 times its volume of this gas, and 
acquires the specific gravity 1.2109. One 
cubic inch of water at 69° Fahr. absorbs 418 
cubic inches, and the specific gravity becomes 
1.1958. The aqueous solution of the gas con- 
stitutes the liquid form of the acid. The 
combinations of muriatic acid with a base are 

MURIATES, or HYDROCHLORATES. 

3883. To Obtain Muriatic Acid. The 

acid solution in water is thus obtained : In- 
troduce 48 ounces (avoirdupois) dried chloride 
of sodium into a flask capable of containing 
an imperial gaUon. Pour 44 fluid ounces sul- 
phuric acid slowly into 32 fluid ounces water; 
and, when cool, add the mixture to the chlor- 
ide of sodium in the flask. Connect the flask, 
by corks and a glass tube, with a three-necked 
wash-bottle, furnished with a safety tube, and 
containing 4 ounces water. Apply heat to 
the flask, conduct the disengaged gas through 
the wash-bottle, and thence, by means of a 
glass tube, into another bottle containing 50 
fluid ounces distilled water, the end of the 
tube dipping about 5 inch below the surface. 
Continue the process until the product mea- 
sures 66 fluid ounces, or till the liquid has 
acquired a specific gravity of 1.16. The bot- 
tle must be kept cool during the process. 

The muriatic acid of commerce is now 
chiefly obtained from the manufacturers of car- 
bonate of soda, who procure it as a secondary 
product. "When, however, it is directly pre- 
pared from sea-salt, an iron or stoneware 
boiler, set in brickwork over an open fire, 
furnished with a stoneware head, and con- 
nected with a series of capacious double- 
necked stoneware bottles, usually ctmstitutes 
the distillatory and condensing apparatus. 



ACIDS. 



36a 



3884. Gregory's Method of Obtain- 
ing Pure Muriatic Acid. Put into a ma- 
trass 6 parts, by weight, of purified salt, and 
10 ounces oil of vitriol previously diluted 
with 4 of water, and cooled. Fix in the ma- 
trass a tube twice bent at rio;ht angles and 
having a bulb blown on the descending limb. 
Into a bottle surrounded with ice and water 
introduce distilled water equal in weight to 
the salt employed, and let the bent tube dip ^ 
of an inch into the water. Apply a gentle 
heat of a sand-bath to the matrass as long as 
In about 2 hours the opera- 



tion will be finished. The water is increased 
§• in l)ulk, and converted into hydrochloric 
acid of 1.14 or 1.15 specific gravity. To pro- 
cure it of 1.21 specific gravity, employ part 
of this acid during the first half of a similar 
operation, and it will be speedily saturated. 
Phillips says a perfectly colorless acid may be 
obtained from the commercial sulphuric acid 
and common salt. 

3885. Dilute Muriatic Acid. Mix 4 
troy ounces muriatic acid with sufficient dis- 
tilled water to make a pint. The specific grav- 
ity of the diluted acid is 1.0.38. ( U. S. Ph.) 



acid comes over. 

3886. Tire's Table of Percentage of Chlorine and Muriatic Acid Gas in Liquid 

Muriatic Acid. 



iuioo.!^^^^*y- 


1 


Acid 
of 1.20 
in 100. 


Specific 
Gravity. 


Chlorine 


Muriatic 
Gas. 


Acid 
of 1.20 
in 100. 


Specific 
Gravity. 


Chlorine 


Muriatic 
Gas. 


100 


1.2000 


39.675 


40.777 


66 


1.1328 


26.186 26.913 


32 


1.0637 


12.697 


13.049 


99 


1.1982 


39.278 


40.369 


65 


1.1308 


25.789 


26.505 


31 


1.0617 


12.300 


12.641 


98 


1.1964 


38.882 


39.961 


64 


1.1287 


25.392 


26.098 


30 


1.0597 


11.903 


12.233 


97 


1.1946 


38.485 


39.554 


63 


1.1267 


24.996 


25.690 


29 


1.0577 


11.506 


11.825 


98 


1.1928 


38.089 


39.146 


62 


1.1247 


24.599 


25.282 


28 


1.0557 


11.109 


11.418 


95 


1.1910 


37.692 


38.738 


61 


1.1226 


24.202 


24.874 


27 


1.0537 


10.712 


11.010 


94 


1.1893 


37.296 


38.330 


60 


1.1206 


23.805 


24.466 


26 


1.0517 


10.316 


10.602 


93 


1.1875 


36.900 


37.923 


59 


1.1185 


23.408 


24.058 


25 


1.0497 


9.919 


10.194 


92 


1.1857 


36.503 


37.516 


58 


1.1164 


23.012 


23.650 


24 


1.0477 


9.522 


9.7«6 


91 


1.1846 


36.107 


37.108 


57 


1.1143 


22.615 


23.242 


23 


1.0457 


9.126 


9.379 


90 


1.1822 


35.707 


36.700 


56 


1.1123 


22.218 


22.834 


22 


1.0437 


8.729 


8.971 


89 


1.1802 


35.310 


36.292 


55 


1.1102 


21.822 


22.426 


21 


1.0417 


8.332 


8.563 


88 


1.1782 


34.913 


35.884 


54 


1.1082 


21.425 


22.019 


20 


1.0397 


7.935 


8.155 


87 


1.1762 


34.517 


35.476 


53 


1.1061 


21.028 


21.611 


19 


1.0377 


7.538 


7.747 


86 


1.1741 


34.121 


35.068 


52 


1.1041 


20.632 


21.203 


18 


1.0357 


7.141 


7.340 


85 


1.1721 


33.724 


34.660 


51 


1.1020 


20.235 


20.796 


17 


1.0337 


6.745 


6.932 


84 


1.1701 


33.328 


34.252 


50 


1.1000 


19.837 


20.388 


16 


1.0318 


6.348 


6.524 


83 


1.1081 


32.931 


33.845 


49 


1.0980 


19.440 


19.980 


15 


1.0298 


5.951 


6.116 


82 


1.1661 


32.535 


33.437 


48 


1.0960 


19.044 


19.572 


14 


1.0279 


5.554 


5.709 


81 


1.1641 


32.136 


33.029 


47 


1.0939 


18.647 


19.165 


13 


1.0259 


5.158 


5.301 


80 


1.1620 


31.746 


32.621 


46 


1.0919 


18.250 


18.757 


12 


1.0239 


4.762 


4.893 


79 


1.1599 


31..343 


32.213 


45 


1.0899 


17.854 


18.349 


11 


1.0220 


4.365 


4.486 


78 


1.1578 


30.946 


31.805 


44 


1.0879 


17.457 


17.941 


10 


1.0200 


3.968 


4.078 


77 


1.1557 


30.550 


31.398 


43 


1.0859 


17.060 


17.534 


9 


1.0180 


3.571 


3.670 


76 


1.1536 


30.153 


30.990 


42 


1.0838 


16.664 


17.126 


8 


1.0160 


3.174 


3.262 


75 


1.1515 


29.755 


30.582 


41 


1.0818 


16.267 


16.718 


7 


1.0140 


2.778 


2.854 


74 


1.1494 


29.361 


30.174 


40 


1.0798 


15.870 


16.310 


6 


1.0120 


2.381 


2.447 


73 


1.1473 


28.964 


29.767 


39 


1.0778 


15.474 


15.902 


5 


1.0100 


1.984 


2.039 


72 


1.1452 


28.567 29.359 


38 


1-0758 


15.077 15.494 


4 


1.0080 


1.588 


1.631 


71 


1.1431 


28.171 28.951 


37 


1.0738 


14.680 15.087 


3 


1.0060 


1.191 


1.224 


70 


1.1410 


27.772 ! 28.544 


36 


1.0718 


14.284 


14.679 


2 


1.0040 


0.795 


0.816 


69 


1.1389 


27.376 28.136 


35 


1.0697 


13.887 


14.271 


1 


1.0020 


0.397 


0.408 


68 


1.1369 


26.979 27.728 


34 


1.0677 


13.490 


13.863 










67 ! 1.1349 


26..583 27.321 


33 


i;03.57 13.094 


13.456 











3887. Tests for Muriatic Acid. "VThen 
a glass rod, dipped in liquor of ammonia, is 
held near it, it gives off white fumes. "VTith 
nitrate of silver it gives a white, cloudy preci- 
pitate, msoluble in nitric acid, freely soluble 
in liquor of ammonia, and blackened by ex- 
posure to the light. 

3888. To Purify Muriatic Acid. 
Commercial muriatic acid may be purified by 
diluting it with an equal weight of water, 
gently heating it in a retort, and receiving the 
evolved gas into a fresh quantity of pure wa- 
ter. Iodine and arsenic may be removed by 
agitating it for a few minutes with some small 
pieces of bright copper foil previously to recti- 
fication, 

3889. Acetic Acid. This is the well- 
known acid principle of vinegar. It is one of 
the common products of fermentation, of the 
oxygenation of alcohol, and of the destructive 



distillation of wood and other vegetable mat- 
ter. The officinal strength of acetic acid 
adopted by the U. S. Pharmacopoeia has a 
specific gravity of 1.047. Special methods 
for testing the strength of acetic acid are given 
under Acetimetry, I^o 69. With bases this 
acid forms acetates. 

Commercial acetic acid is principally manu- 
factured on the large scale from acetate of 
soda, which yields a suflSciently strong and 
pure acid for commercial purposes, without 
the trouble of rectification. In this process, 
shallow copper vessels formed without rivets 
or solder in those parts exposed to the action 
of the acid, are employed for the purpose of 
the distillation. A coil of drawn copper pipe, 
heated by steam, having a pressure of 30 to 
35 pounds to the inch, traverses the bottom of 
the apparatus. The refrigeratory consists of 
well cooled earthenware vessels, and the 



364. 



ACIDS. 



adopter or pipe connecting the still with the 
receivers is also of the same materials. Stills 
of earthenware are also frequently employed, 
and even worms and condensers of silver are 
sometimes used. The crystalline acetate of 
soda is placed in the still, and 35 to 36 parts 
of strong oil of vitriol are added to every 100 
parts of the acetate of soda, and the whole 
stirred together with a wooden spatula. The 
head of the still is then luted on and the dis- 
tillation commenced. This produces an acid 
of a specific gravity of about 1.050, and, after 
being agitated with a little animal charcoal, 
and passed through a prepared muslin filter, 
is ready for sale. Some manufacturers add a 
little acetic ether to it. By this process 4 
pounds of acetic acid of the strength above 
mentioned is obtained for every 3 pounds of 
the acetate of soda employed. {See No. 
1741.) 

3890. Dilute Acetic Acid. The U. S. 
Pharmacopseia directs 1 pint acetic acid to be 
mixed with 7 pints distilled water, producing 
an acid of specific gravity 1.006; 100 grains of 
dilute acetic acid saturate 7.6 grains bicarbon- 
ate of potassa. 

3891. To Obtain Pure Glacial or 
Hydrated Acetic Acid. Place 30 parts 
dry and finely powdered pure acetate of soda 
in a capacious retort, and pour on it 97 parts 
pure sulphuric acid. The heat developed by 
the action of the ingredients will cause one- 
eighth of the acetic acid to pass over. The 
retort may then be placed in a sand bath until 
the contents become quite liquid. The pro- 
duct, carefully rectified, yields 2 parts of pure 
acid containing only 20 per cent, of water. 
By exposing the latter portion, which comes 
over in a closed vessel, to a temperature below 
40° Fahr., crystals of hydrated (glacial) acetic 
acid will be deposited. The liquid portion 
being then poured off, the crystals are again 
melted and re-crystallized by cooling. These 
last crystals, separated from the liquid, are 
perfectly pure. 

3892. To Obtain Glacial or Hydrated 
Acetic Acid Without Distillation. The 
acid may also be obtained without resorting to 
distillation, thus: Place 100 parts powdered 
acetate of soda (pure commercial) in a hard- 
glazed stoneware or glass pan ; pour 35 or 36 
parts concentrated sulphuric acid gradually 
into the pan, so that the acid may flow under 
the powder, and as little heat as possible be 
generated by the operation. In furtherance of 
this necessary end, the process is best conduct- 
ed in a cool apartment, and the pan kept 
well cooled. The whole must now be covered 
and allowed to stand for some hours, when 
crystalline grains of sulphate of soda will be 
found covering the inside of the vessel, and 
hydrated acetic acid, partly liquid and partly 
in crystals, in the upper portion. The tem- 
perature must then be raised just sufficiently 
to liquefy the crystals of acetic acid, the fluid 
poured off, and a very small quantity of pure 
acetate of lime added gradually, until it 
yields no trace of sulphuric acid on evap- 
oration. After repose it may be decanted for 
use. 

3893. To Obtain Pure Acetic Acid. 
Triturate together 10 parts crystallized neutral 
acetate of lead, and 3 parts effloresced (dry) 
sulphate of soda; mix together 21 parts each 



of sulphuric acid and water, and, when cold, 
pour it on the acetate and sulphate, previously 
placed in a retort ; then distill to dryness in 
a sand bath. The acid that comes over in 
the distillation by this process is very pure, and 
may be used as a test acid for chemical an- 
alyses. 

3894. To Obtain Anhydrous Acetic 
Acid. This is acetic acid free from water, 
as it exists in dry acetates. Mix, in a glass 
retort, well-fused acetate of potassa with half 
its weight of chloride of benzoyle ; apply a 
gentle heat, collect the liquid that distills 
over, and rectify it carefully. Hot water add- 
ed to this resolves it into hydrated or glacial 
acetic acid. 

3895. Camphorated Acetic Acid. 
Pulverize 1 ounce camphor in 1 fluid drachm 
rectified spirit, and dissolve in 10 fluid ounces 
strong acetic acid. This is fragrant and re- 
freshing, and used as an embrocation in rheu- 
matism and neuralgia, and as a fumigation in 
fever, &c. 

3896. To Obtain Strong Acetic Acid 
from Vinegar. Expose the vinegar to the 
action of a freezing mixture, or place in the 
air in very cold weather ; the water separates 
and becomes ice, and the strong acid remain- 
ing fluid may be drained from it. {See No. 
1749.) 

3897. Mohr's Table of the Specific 
Gravity of Acetic Acid at Various 
strengths. The foUowiag table, drawn up 
by M. Mohr, exhibits the specific gravity of 
acetic acid of almost every strength. 



Per cent. 




Per cent. 




Per cent. 




of Glacial 


Sp. Gr. 


of Glacial 


Sp. Gr. 


of Glacial 


Sp. Gr. 


Acid. 




Acid. 




Acid. 




100 


1.0635 


67 


1.069 


34 


1.045 


99 


1.0635 


66 


1.069 


33 


1.044 


98 


1.067 


65 


1.068 


32 


1.0424 


97 


1.0680 


64 


1.068 


31 


1.041 


96 


1.069 


63 


1.068 


30 


1.040 


95 


1.070 


62 


1.067 


29 


1.039 


94 


1.0706 


61 


1.067 


28 


1.038 


93 


1.0708 


60 


1.067 


27 


1.036 


92 


1.0716 


59 


1.066 


26 


1.035 


91 


1.0721 


58 


1.066 


25 


1.034 


90 


1.0730 


57 


1.065 


24 


1.033 


89 


1.0730 


56 


1.064 


23 


1.032 


88 


1.0730 


55 


1.064 


22 


1.031 


87 


1.0730 


54 


1.063 


21 


1.029 


86 


1.0730 


53 


1.063 


20 


1027 


85 


1.0730 


52 


1.062 


19 


1.026 


84 


1.0730 


51 


1.061 


18 


1.025 


83 


1.0730 


50 


1.060 


17 


1.024 


82 


1.0730 


49 


1.059 


16 


1.023 


81 


1.0732 


48 


1.058 


15 


1.022 


80 


1.0735 


.47 


1.056 


14 


1.020 


79 


1.0732 


46 


1.055 


13 


1.018 


78 


1.0732 


45 


1.055 


12 


1.017 


77 


1.073 


44 


1.054 


11 


1.016 


76 


1.072 


43 


1.053 


10 


1.015 


75 


1.072 


42 


1.052 


9 


1.013 


74 


1.072 


41 


1.0515 


8 


1.012 


73 


1.071 


40 


1.0513 


7 


1.010 


72 


1.071 


39 


1.050 


6 


1.008 


71 


1.071 


38 


1.049 


5 


1.0067 


70 


1.070 


37 


1.048 


4 


1.0065 


69 


1.070 


36 


1.047 


3 


1.C04 


68 


1.070 


35 


1.046 


2 

1 


1.002 
1.001 



ACIDS. 



365 



3898. To Concentrate Acetic Acid. 

Acid containing 20 per cent, of water may be 
deprived of a good deal of its superfluous 
water by standing over dry sulphate of soda. 
It may then be used either with or without 
distillation. Acetic acid of ordinary strength 
may be concentrated to any degree of rectifi- 
cation once or oftener from dry acetate of po- 
tassa or soda, rejecting the first and last por- 
tions that come over. The same acetate may 
be used repeatedly. The heat employed must 
not exceed 500- to 570^ Fahr. Pure hydrated 
acetic acid liquefies above 62° Fahr.; at 50° to 
55° it crystalhzes in brilhant, colorless, trans- 
parent needles and plates ; at 40° it is a crys- 
talline solid. Free acetic acid reddens litmus 
paper, and may be recognized by its odor and 
volatility. 

3899. Tests for the Purity of Acetic 
Acid. By heat it escapes entirchj in vapor. 
Either nitrate of silver or chloride of barium 
being added to it, will produce no precipitate. 
When a thin plate of silver is digested in it, 
and hydrochloric acid subsequently dropped 
in, no precipitate is formed. Its color is un- 
changed by the addition of hydrosulphuric 
acid, or ammonia, or by ferrocyanide of potas- 
sium added after the ammonia. The presence 
of sulphuric acid is indicated by a white pre- 
cipitate being formed on the addition of a lit- 
tle peroxide of lead. 

3900. Oxalic Acid. This consists of 
colorless crystals, possessing considerable vol- 
atility, and a strong, som* taste; when ex- 
posed to a very dry atmosphere they effloresce 
slightly. Oxalic acid sublimes at 180° Fahr., 
and melts at 280° ; is soluble in about nine 
times its weight of cold, and in its own weight 
of boiling water; soluble also, but in a less 
degree, in alcohol. It has a strong affinity 
for hme, and is therefore a good test for its 
presence, by yielding a precipitate insoluble 
in excess of the acid. "With the bases, oxalic 
acid forms Oxalates. 

3901. To Obtain Oxalic Acid. Lie- 
big proposes : Xitric acid (specific gravity 
1.42), 5 parts; water, 10 parts; mix, add 
sugar, or preferably potato starch, 1 part, and 
digest by a gentle heat as long as gaseous 
products are evolved ; evaporate and crystal- 
lize, dry the crystals, redissolve in the small- 
est possible quantity of boiling water, and 
crystallize ; 12 parts of potato starch yield 
5 of acid. The mother water, treated with 
more nitric acid, and again warmed, will 
yield a second crop of crystals ; and this 
Should be repeated till the solution is ex- 
hausted. 

Schlesinger gives the following method : 
Sugar 4 parts (dried at 257° Fahr.); nitric 
acid (specific gravity 1.38) 33 parts ; the mix- 
ture, as soon as the evolution of gas ceases, is 
to be boiled down to one-sixth its original 
volume, and allowed to crystallize. The 
whole process may be executed in 2 hours, 
and yields of beautifully crystallized oxalic 
acid from 56 to 60 per cent, of the sugar em- 
ployed. 

On the large scale, the first part of the pro- 
cess is usually conducted in salt-glazed stone- 
ware pipkins, about two-thirds filled and set 
in a water- bath ; but on the small scale a 
glass retort or capsule may be used. The 
evaporation should be preferably conducted 



by steam. The evolved nitrous vapors are 
usually allowed to escape, but if conveyed 
into a chamber filled with cold damp air, and 
containing a little water, they wiU absorb 
oxygen, and be recoudensed into fuming 
nitric acid. In England an equivalent pro- 
portion of molasses is usually substituted for 
sugar. Another process consists in first con- 
verting potato fecula into grape sugar with 
sulphuric acid, and then decomposing the 
sugar thus obtained by nitric acid, in the 
usual way. Dr. Ure recommends the use of 
a little sulphuric acid along with the nitric 
acid, which, he says, con'-ributes to increase 
the product; 15 pounds of sugar yielding 
fully 17 pounds of crystallized oxalic acid. 

3902. Dale's Process for Obtaining 
Oxalic Acid. At present much of the oxalic 
acid of commerce is obtained by heating saw- 
dust with a mixture of 2 parts caustic soda 
with 1 part caustic potassa. A watery solution 
of the mixed alkalies is evaporated to specific 
gravity 1.35, and then mixed with sawdust 
to a paste. This is heated on iron plates to 
400° Fahr., and kept at that temperature for 1 
or 2 hours, with constant stiiTing ; the heat is 
continued until the mass is quite dry, but not 
chan-ed. It now contains 28 to 30 per cent, 
of oxalic acid combined with the alkalies. By 
washing the powder on a filter with a solution 
of carbonate of soda, all traces of potassa are 
washed out. The oxalate of soda is convert- 
ed, by heated milk of lime, into oxalate of 
lime, and the resulting oxalate of lime is 
treated with sulphuric acid, leaving a solu- 
tion of oxalic acid ready to be evaporated into 
crystals. Two pounds of sawdust yield 1 
pound oxalic acid. 

3903. Chemically Pure Oxalic Acid. 
Chemically pure oxalic acid is best prepared 
by precipitating a solution of binoxalate of 
potash with acetate of lead, washing the pre- 
cipitate with water, and decomposing it, while 
still moist, with dilute sulphuric acid or sul- 
phuretted hydrogen. Filter and evaporate 
gently, so that crystals mav form as it cools. 

3904. To Distinguish Oxalic Acid 
from Epsom Salts. Oxalic acid has occa- 
sionally been mistaken for Epsom salts, with 
fatal results. They may be easily distinguish- 
ed. Epsom salts taste extremely hitter and 
nauseous; oxalic acid tastes extremely sour. 
It is safer to taste a weak solution in apply- 
ing this test. Epsom salts, dissolved in water 
and mixed with carbonate of soda, or carbo- 
nate of potash, turn milky, and, after a time, a 
white sediment subsides; oxahc acid, mixed 
with carbonate of soda or carbonate of potash, 
effervesces, and the liquid, in a few seconds, 
becomes transparent. 

3905. Gallic Acid, ^hen pure, gaUic 
acid forms small, feathery, and nearly color- 
less crystals, which have a beautiful silky 
lustre. Commercial gallic acid has usually a 
pale yellow color, soluble in both water and 
alcohol. Its aqueous solution decomposes by 
exposure to the air. It blackens the salts of 
iron. Dissolved in hot oil of vitriol, it forms 
a deep, rich, red solution, which, when thrown 
into water, drops the gallic acid, deprived of 
some of its water. Gallic acid forms gal- 
LATES with the bases. 

3906. To Obtain Gallic Acid. Mix 36 
troy ounces nut-gall, in fine powder, with suf- 



366 



ACIDS. 



ficient distilled water to make a thin paste ; 
expose the mixture to the air in a shallow 
glass or porcelain vessel, in a warm place, for 
a month, occasionally stirring with a glass 
rod, and adding sufficient distilled water to 
preserve the original consistence. Then press 
out the water, boil the residue in 8 pints dis- 
tilled water for a few minutes, and filter while 
hot through purified animal charcoal. {See 
Ko. 1752). Set aside to crystallize, and dry 
the crystals on bibulous paper. If not suffi- 
ciently free from color, dissolve the crystals 
in boiling distilled water, filter through a 
fresh portion of the charcoal, and crystallize 
again. (U. S. Fh.) 

3907. To Obtain Gallic Acid from 
Tannin. Add a strong aqueous solution of 
tannic acid (tannin) to sulphuric acid, as long 
as a precipitate falls; collect the powder, 
wash, and dissolve it by the aid of heat in 
diluted sulphuric acid; boil for a few min- 
utes, cool, and collect the crystals of gaUic 
acid which will form in considerable quantity. 

3908. To Distinguish Gallic Acid 
from Tannic Acid. Gallic acid does not 
afi'ect solutions of gelatine, the protosalts of 
iron, or the salts of the alkaloids; but it pro- 
duces a black precipitate with the sesquisalts 
of iron, which disappears when the liquid is 
heated. 

3909. Pyrogallic Acid. This acid is 
formed m white, shining scales, inodorous, 
very bitter; soluble in water, alcohol, and 
ether ; fusible at 239° Fahr., and subliming at 
410°. "When quite pure, it has no action on 
htmus paper. It is used in photography. 
A solution of the crude acid mixed with a 
little alcohol imparts a fine brown color to 
the hair, but stains the skin also. 

3910. To Obtain Pyrogallic Acid. 
It may "be prepared by heating gallic acid 
(previously dried at 212° Fahr.) in a glass 
retort, by means of a chloride of zinc bath, to 
410°, when the pure acid sublimes, and forms 
in crystals on the neck of the retort, and in 
the receiver, which should be kept well 
cooled. 

3911. Tannic Acid, also called Tannin. 
Pure tannic acid is sohd, uncrystallizable, 
white, or slightly yellow ; strongly astringent, 
but without bitterness ; very soluble in wa- 
ter, less so in alcohol and ether, and insoluble 
in fixed or volatile oils. Its solution reddens 
litmus. "With the bases tannic acid forms 

TANNATES. 

Among the incompatibles of tannui are the 
alkaloids of opium, and it is altogether una- 
voidable that if solutions of them are brought 
together, a precipitate will form of tannates ; 
also, if the preparation of opium contain 
safiron, as in acetum opii and Sydenham's 
laudanum, this will cause a further precipita- 
tion of the extractive of safiron. (See No. 
3908.) 

3912. To Obtain Tannic Acid. Ex- 
pose nut-gall in fine powder to a damp atmo- 
sphere for 24 hours, then mix it with suffi- 
cient ether, previously washed with water, to 
form a soft paste. Set this aside, closely 
covered, for 6 hours ; then envelope it quickly 
in a close canvas cloth, and obtain the liquid 
portion by pressing powerfully between tinned 
plates. Reduce the resulting cake to powder, 
mix it with sufficient ethe- shaken with -^^ 



its bulk of water, to form again a soft paste, 
and express as before. Mix the liquids, and 
evaporate spontaneously to a syrupy consist- 
ence; then spread it on glass or tinned 
plates, and dry quickly in a drying closet. 
Put the diy residue in a well-stopped bottle. 

3913. Carbonic Acid. An acid com- 
pound, formed by the union of carbon with 
oxygen, sometimes called choJce-damp. A 
colorless gas possessing a pungent odor and 
acidulous taste, rapidly absorbed by water, 
forming liquid carbonic acid. The agreeable 
pungency of ale, beer, porter, wine, &c., is in 
a great measure owing to the presence of 
carbonic acid, which they lose on exposure to 
the air, and then become flat and stale. 
Spring and well water contain carbonic acid, 
and water that has been boiled has an insipid 
taste, from its absence. Under a pressure of 
36 atmospheres at 32° Fahr. it becomes 
fluid, and on the pressure being removed, 
congeals, from the cold produced by its rapid 
evaporation. It has been estimated that the 
temperature falls to 180° in this experiment. 
Carbonic acid gas is destmctive to life, and 
extinguishes combustion. An atmosphere con- 
taining more than its natural quantity (about 
T^oo ), is unfit for respiration. The air of wells, 
cellars, brewers' vats, &g., is frequently con- 
taminated with this gas (choke-damp) ; hence 
the necessity of the old plan of letting down 
a burning candle before venturing in. If the 
candle will not bum, man cannot breathe 
there. "With the bases, this acid forms car- 
bonates. 

3914. To Obtain Carbonic Acid. 
Dilute muriatic acid with 4 times its weight 
of water, then pour it upon fragments of 
marble, previously placed in a tubulated re- 
tort. Carbonic acid gas will be rapidly 
evolved, and may either be collected in the 
mercurial pneumatic trough, or applied to 
immediate use. "When wanted perfectly dry, 
it must be passed over dried chloride of cal- 
cium, or through concentrated oil of vitriol. 
This is the most convenient way of procuring 
the gas on the small scale, or in the labora- 
tory. Or: Dilute oil of vitriol with 3 or 4 
times its weight of water, then pour it on 
whiting placed in a suitable vessel, and apply 
agitation. This is the plan adopted on the 
large scale by the soda water makers. {See 
No. 710.) 

3915. Tests for Carbonic Acid. It 
reddens litmus paper, extinguishes the flame 
of a burning taper, and forms a white pre- 
cipitate in aqueous solutions of lime and 
baryta, which is soluble in acetic acid. By 
the last test, a very small quantity of this 
gas may be easily detected in the atmosphere 
of rooms, &c. 

3916. Carbolic Acid, also called 
Phenol, Phenic acid, and lujdrate of Plienyle. 
It consists of long, colorless prismatic crys- 
tals, which melt at about 90° Fahr, into an 
oily liquid resembling creosote. The crystals 
deliquesce in moist air, forming a sort of 
hydrate, which boils at 370° and has a specific 
gravity of 1.035. Heated with ammonia, it 
yields aniline and water ; and nitric acid con- 
verts it into picric acid. Commercial creosote 
consists principally of hydrated carbolic acid, 
but is easily distinguishable from it, as carboHc 
acid coagulates collodion, creosote does not. 



A C IDS. 



367 



It has come into promineut notice as an effi- 
cient disinfectant. 

3917. To Obtain Carbolic Acid. This 
is obtained from that portion of coal-tar 
which distills over between 300° and 400^ 
Fahr.; this, when mixed with a hot concen- 
trated solution of hydrate of potassa, is re- 
solved, on the addition of water, into a light 
oil and a heavier alkaline liquid. By separat- 
ing the latter, and neutralizing it with 
muriatic acid, impure carbolic acid will float 
on the surface in the form of a light oil. If 
this be distilled from dried chloride of cal- 
cium to separate the water, and the distillate 
be exposed to a low temperatm-e, carbolic 
acid congeals in a colorless dehquescent crys- 
talline mass, which may be separated from 
the liquid by pressure in bibulous paper. At 
95^ Fahr. the crystals melt and constitute the 
liquid carbolic acid. The introduction of a 
crystal of carbolic acid into the acid to be 
congealed, greatly facilitates its crystalliza- 
tion. 

39 1 8. Tests for the Purity of Carbolic 
Acid. If it becomes brown under the in- 
fluence of light and air it is impure. 

Pat 1 fluid drachm of the liquid acid in a 
bottle with ^ pint warm water, and shake oc- 
casionally for half an hour; the amount of 
oily residue will indicate the measure of adul- 
teration. 

Mix 1 part caustic soda with 10 parts of the 
acid, and shake them well together. Any 
undissolved residue is impurity. 

3919. To Remove the Odor from Car- 
bolic Acid. It may be interesting to know 
of a method which will entirely remove this 
odor, substituting for it a delicate trace of 
geranium leaves, which may, perhaps, be im- 
proved upon by adding a few drops of that 
oil. The process, as recently published by 
Professor Church, consists in pouring 1 pound 
of the best carbolic acid of commerce (the 
white crystallized) into 2 gallons cold distilled 
water, taking care not to permit the whole of 
the acid to enter into solution, ^ith a good 
sample, if, after shaking repeatedly at inter- 
vals, between 2 and 3 ounces of the acid re- 
main at the bottom of the vessel used, this 
will be a sufficient residue to hold and contain 
all the impurities; with bad samples, less wa- 
ter must be used, and more acid. The watery 
solution IS to be syphoned ofi", and filtered, if 
necessary, through fine filtering paper, till 
perfectly clear. It is then placed in a tall 
cylinder, and pm-e powdered common salt 
added, with constant agitation, till it no longer 
dissolves. On standing for a time, the greater 
part of the carbolic acid will be found floating 
as a yellow oily layer on the top of the saline 
liquor, and merely requires to be removed to 
be ready for use. As it contains 5 per cent. 
or more of water, it does not generally crys- 
tallize, but it may be made to do so by distill- 
ing it from a little lime. The portion col- 
lected has, at ordinary temperatures, and up 
to 335° Fahr., scarcely any odor save a faint 
one resembling that of geranium leaves. The 
addition of about 4 drops per fluid ounce ofi 
the French oil of geranium will still further! 
mask the slight odor of the acid, and has an I 
additional advantage of liquefying the pure ' 
crystallized product. The pure acid may be 
dissolved in 230 parts of water, and used as > 



a gargle, or in 25 parts of water for painting 
the throat, or in 50 parts for the carbolic 
spray. By this process it becomes sufficiently- 
deodorized for toilet purposes. 

3920. Phosphoric Acid. This acid, in 
its pure or anhydrous state, can only be ob- 
tained by the direct combination of its ele- 
ments, phosphorus and oxygen, 1 equivalent 
of phosphorus combining with 5 of oxygen. 
It consists of a white, flaky, extremely deli- 
quescent powder, which, when fused and 
cooled, assumes a vitreous appearance. It is 
capable of assuming three separate conditions 
in combination with water as a base ; the 
union of 1 equivalent of anhydrous acid with 
1 equivalent of water produces monohasic or 
glacial phosphoric acid, called also metaphos- 
phoric acid ; 1 equivalent of anhydrous acid, 
with 2 of water, gives hihasic or pyroplios- 
phoric acid; 1 of anhydrous acid with 3 of 
water forms trihasic, or commercial phos- 
phoric acid. This last is the common form of 
the acid. These three forms of the acid are 
not pure phosphoric acid in difi'erent degrees 
of dilution, as they have distinguishing char- 
acteristics. Monobasic phosphoric acid coa- 
gulates albumen, and gives white gelatinous 
uncrystallizable precipitates with the soluble 
salts of baryta, lime, and silver ; the dibasic 
does not coagulate albumen, and makes, when 
neutralized only, a white precipitate with 
nitrate of silver ; the trihasic does not afl'ect 
albumen, and, when neutralized, throws down 
a yellow precipitate (phosphate of silver) from 
nitrate of silver. Trihasic phosphoric acid 
is the usual form under which phosphoric 
acid combines with the bases to form phos- 
phates. 

3921. To Obtain Phosphoric Acid. 
This is obtained by heating nitric acid in a 
tubulated retort connected with a receiver; 
small fragments of phosphorus are dropped 
into the acid, singly and at intervals. As 
soon as the phosphorus is dissolved, the heat 
is increased, and the undecomposed acid dis- 
tilled ofi". The residuum is then evaporated 
to a syrupy consistence, and forms the phos- 
phoric acid of commerce. 

3922. To Obtain Hydrated or Glacial 
Phosphoric Acid. Phosphoric acid {see 
last receipt) is gradually heated to redness in 
a platinum crucible, and the glacial acid ob- 
tained by evaporation. Solid hydrated or 
glacial phosphoric acid contains 89 per cent, 
of real acid, and 11 per cent, of water. It is 
a highly deliquescent, glassy-looking sub- 
stance, very soluble in water, yielding a solu- 
tion exhibiting powerful acid properties. Its 
concentrated solution has nearly the same 
properties as the solid acid; its dilute solution 
is not poisonous, and does not precipitate 
albumen. (Cooley.) 

3923. Anhydrous Phosphoric Acid. 
This is evolved by burning phosphorus in a 
stream of dry air, or under a bell-jar, copious- 
ly supplied "^ with dry ah*. The product is 
anhydrous phosphoric acid in snow-like flakes. 
These must be collected immediately, and put 
into a warm, dry, well-stoppered bottle. A 
few seconds' exposure to the air causes the 
anhydrous acid to deliquesce into a syrupy 
liquid, its attraction for water being intense. 
Its anhydrous state cannot be restored after 
deliquescence or solution. 



368 



ACIDS. 



3924. Dilute Phosphoric Acid. Mix 

5 troy ounces nitric acid with ^ pint distilled 
water in a porcelain capsule of the capacity 
of 2 pints; add 6 drachms phosi)horus and 
invert over it a glass funnel of such dimen- 
sions that its rim may rest on the inside of 
the capsule, near the surface of the liquid. 
Place the capsule on a sand-bath, and apply 
a moderate heat until the phosphorus is dis- 
solved, and red vapors cease to rise. If the 
reaction becomes too violent, add a little dis- 
tilled water ; and if the red vapors cease to 
be evolved before the phosphorus is all dis- 
solved, gradually add nitric acid (diluted as 
before) until the solution is effected. Eemove 
the funnel, continue the heat until the excess 
of nitric acid is driven off, and a syru^^y liquid, 
free from odor and weighing 2 troy ounces, 
remains. Mix this, when cold, with sufficient 
distilled water to measure 20 fluid ounces, and 
filter through paper. 

Or: Dissolve 1 troy ounce glacial phos- 
phoric acid in 3 fluid ounces distilled water ; 
add 40 grains nitric acid, boil to a syrupy li- 
quid, free from the odor of nitric acid, add dis- 
tilled water to make up to 12^ fluid ounces, 
and filter. 

3925. Tests for the Purity of Phos- 
phoric Acid. The U. S. Pharmacopoeia 
directs that an aqueous solution of the acid 
should yield no precipitate with sulphuretted 
hydrogen, showing the absence of metals ; it 
should cause a white precipitate with chloride 
of barium, soluble in excess of acid; and, 
with an excess of ammonia, should cause only 
a shght turbidness, proving the almost total 
absence of earthy salts. If the presence 
of arsenic is denoted by the tests for that 
metal, it may be separated by boiling with 
muriatic acid, so ' as to convert the arsenic 
into a volatile chloride, which would escape 
with vapors of the muriatic acid. 

3926. Test for the Presence of Phos- 
phoric Acid. Hydrochloric acid is added to 
the solution to acid reaction, and afterwards 
1 or 2 drops of a concentrated solution of ses- 
quichloride of iron; a solution of acetate of 
potassa is next added in excess, when a floe 
culent white precipitate (sesqui-phosphate of 
iron) will be found if phosphoric acid was 
present in any form or combination in the 
original liquor. Arsenious acid, if present, 
should be removed by sulphuretted hydrogen 
before applying the test. (Cooley.) 

3927. Phosphorous Acid. This is pre- 
pared by burning phosphorus under a bell- 
glass with a very limited supply of air. 
White and pulverulent. It is a powerful de- 
oxidizing agent. "With the bases it unites to 

form PHOSPHITES. 

3928. Hypophosphoric Acid. A 

name erroneously given by M. Dulong to a 
mixture of phosphoric and phosphorous acids. 
(Cooley.) 

3929. Tartaric Acid. Tartaric acid 
forms inodorous, sour, scarcely transparent 
prisms, soluble in 2 parts of water at 60°, 
and its own weight of boiling water. It 
contains about 98- of combined water, fuses at 
220° Fahr., boils at 260° ; and, at about 400°, 
after losing J of its water, is converted into 
tartralic acid. "With the bases it forms salts 
called TARTRATES. Tartaric acid is cliiefly em- 
ployed in calico printing, and in medicine, as 



a substitute for citric acid and lemon juice, 
for the preparation of cooling drinks and saline 
draughts. 

3930. To Obtain Tartaric Acid. On 

the small scale it is prepared as follows : Dis- 
solve 4 pounds cream of tartar in 2 gallons 
boiling water; add gradually 12 ounces 7 
drachms chalk; and, when the effervescence 
ceases, add another like portion of chalk, dis- 
solved in 26 i fluid ounces muriatic acid, dilu- 
ted with 4 pints water ; collect the precipitated 
tartrate of lime, and well wash it with water, 
then boil it for 15 minutes in 8 pints 1 fluid 
ounce dilute sulphuric acid ; next filter, evap- 
orate to the density 1.38, and set it aside to 
crystallize. The crystals must be dissolved 
and crystallized a second and a thnd time. 

On the large scale, the decomposition of the 
tartar is usually effected in a copper boiler, 
and that of the tartrate of lime in a leaden 
cistern. This part of the process is often per- 
formed by mere digestion for a few days, with- 
out the application of heat. Leaden or stone- 
ware vessels are used as crystaUizers. Good 
cream of tartar requires 26 per cent, of chalk, 
and 28.5 per cent, of dry chloride of calcium 
for its perfect decomposition. Dry tartrate of 
lime requires 75 per cent, of oil of vitriol to 
liberate the whole of the tartaric acid. A 
very slight excess of sulphuric acid may be 
advantageously employed. Some manufac- 
turers bleach the colored solution of the first 
crystals by treating it with animal charcoal ; 
but for this purpose the latter substance 
should be first purified by digesting it in mu- 
riatic acid, and afterwards by edulcorating it 
with water, and exposing it to a dull red heat 
in a covered vessel. The general manage- 
ment of this manufacture resembles that of 
citric acid. (Cooley.) 

3931. To Detect Tartaric Acid in 
Citric Acid. Citric acid is sometimes adul- 
terated with tartaric acid. This is readily de- 
tected by adding a solution of carbonate of 
potassa to a solution of the suspected acid ; if 
tartaric acid be present, a crystalline precipit- 
ate of bitartate of potassa (cream of tartar) 
will be found. A more delicate test is to di- 
gest the suspected acid with hydrated sesqui- 
oxide of iron in a test tube, and afterwards to 
raise the heat slowly to the boiling point ; al- 
lowing the excess of oxide to subside, decant 
the clear liquid, and evaporate it to a syrupy 
consistence. If the citric acid was pure, the 
liquid remains clear and of a fine red color ; 
the presence of only 1 per cent, of tartaric 
acid renders it cloudy, and deposits tartrate of 
the sesquioxide. (U. iS. Dis.) 

3932. Citric Acid. This is an agree- 
able acid, cooling and antiseptic ; 20 grains of 
citric acid are equivalent to 5 fluid drachms 
lemon juice. "When used for making saline 
draughts, it is preferable to use bicarbonate of 
potassa as the neutralizing alkali. Their re- 
spective saturating equivalents will be found 
in Nos. 80 and 81. "With the bases it forms 

CITRATES. 

3933. To Prepare Citric Acid. Add 

42 ounces chalk by degrees to 4 pints lemon 
juice, heated, and mix; set by, that the poT^- 
der may precipitate ; afterwards pour off the 
supernatant liquor. "Wash the precipitated 
citrate of lime frequently with warm water; 
then pour upon it 27^ fluid ounces diluted sul- 



ACIDS. 



369 



phuiic acid and 2 pints distilled water, and 
boil for 15 minutes ; press the liquor strongly 
through, a linen cloth, and filter it. Evapor- 
ate the filtered liquor with a gentle heat, and 
set it aside that crystals may form. To obtain 
the crystals pure, dissolve them in water a 
second and a third time ; filter each solution, 
evaporate, and set it apart to crystallize. The 
preparation of citric acid has become an im- 
portant branch of chemical manufacture, from 
the large consumption of this article in va- 
rious operations in the arts. In conducting 
this process some little expertness and care 
are necessary to ensure success. The chalk 
employed should be dry, and in fine powder, 
and be added to the juice until it be perfectly 
neutralized, and the quantity consumed must 
be exactly noted. The precipitated citrate of 
lime should be well washed with water, and 
the sulphuric acid diluted with 6 or 8 times 
its weight of water, poured upon it while still 
warm, and thoroughly mixed with it. The 
agitation must be occasionally renewed for 8 or 
10 hours, when the dilute citric acid must be 
poured off, and the residuum of sulphate of 
lime thoroughly washed with warm water, 
and the washings added to the dilute acid. 
The latter must then be poured off from the 
impurities that may have been deposited, and 
evaporated in a leaden boiler, over the naked 
fire, until it acquires a specific gravity of 1.13, 
when the process must be continued at a 
lower temperature until a pelhcle appears 
upon the surface. This part of the process 
requires great attention and judgment, as, if 
not properly conducted, the whole batch may 
be carbonized and spoiled. At this point the 
evaporation must be stopped, and the concen- 
trated solution emptied into warm and clean 
crystallizing vessels, set in a dry apartment, 
where the thermometer does not fall below 
temperate. At the end of 4 days the crystals 
will be ready to remove from the pans, when 
they must be well drained, redissolved in as 
little water possible, and, after being allowed 
to stand for a few hours to deposit impurities, 
again evaporated and crystallized. When the 
process has been well managed, the acid of 
the second crystallization will usually be suffi- 
ciently pure ; but if this be not the case, a 
third, or even a fourth crystallization must be 
had recourse to. The mother liquors from 
the several pans are collected together, and, 
by evaporation, yield a second or third crop 
of crystals obtained by evaporation as before. 
Citric acid crystallizes with great ease, but in 
some cases, where all the citrate of lime has 
not undergone decomposition by the sul- 
phuric acid, a little of that salt is taken up 
by the free citric acid, and materially ob- 
structs the crystallization. This is best 
avoided by exactly apportioning the quantity 
of the sulphuric acid to that of the chalk 
used, always remembering that it requires a 
quantity of liquid sulphuric acid, containing 
exactly 40 parts of dry acid, to decompose 50 
parts of carbonate of lime. Commercial sul- 
phuric acid is usually of the specific gravity 
of 1.845; it will therefore take exactly 49 
pounds of this acid for 50 pounds of chalk. 
In practice it is found that a very slight ex- 
cess of sulphuric acid is better than leaving 
any citrate of lime undecomposed. The first 
crop of crystals is called " brown citric acid," 



and is much used by the calicu printers. 
Sometimes a little nitric acid is added to the 
solution of the colored crystals, for the pur- 
pose of whitening them, but in this way a 
minute quantity of oxalic acid is formed. 
Good lemon juice yields fully 5 per cent, of 
lemon acid, or 2 gallons yield about 1 pound 
of crystals. If the imported citrate of lime 
be used, a given quantity must be heated tO;' 
redness, and then weighed, when the percent-' 
age of lime present will be ascertained ;\ 
every 28 pounds of which will require 49 
pounds of sulphuric acid of 1.845 (or a corres- 
ponding quantity containing exactly 40 parts 
of dry acid) for its complete decomposition. 

39"34. Tests for the Purity of Gitric 
Acid. When pure, it does not yield a crys- 
talline precipitate when added in excess to a 
solution of carbonate of potassa ; such a pre- 
cipitate indicates the presence of tartaric acid. 
It is entirely soluble in water, and what is 
thrown down by acetate of lead from this so- 
lution, is entirely soluble in dilute nitric acid. 
ISTo salt of potassa, except the tartrate, yields 
a precipitate with the aqueous solution. It is 
entirely decomposed by heat; added sparingly 
to cold lime water, it does not render it tur- 
bid, and when a few drops of a solution of 
citric acid are added to lime water, a clear 
liquid results, which, when heated, deposits a 
white powder, soluble in acids without ef- 
fervescence. 

3935. Arsenious Acid. This is the 
arsenic or white arsenic of commerce, im- 
ported chiefly from Germany, also manufac- 
tured in quantity in Cornwall, England. It 
consists of large, glassy, colorless or yellowish- 
white, semi-transparent cakes or porcelain- 
like masses, which soon become opaque on 
their exterior, and sometimes friable and 
pulverulent. The transparent arsenic is 
found to be more than three times as soluble 
in water at 55° Fahr. than the opaque. In 
taste it is slightly sweetish, with a slight 
acidity and astringency, not perceived until 
some minutes after being swallowed, hence 
its dangerous character as a poison. Crude 
arsenic is obtained, as a collateral product, 
during the smelting of cobalt ores. Pure 
arsenic is obtained from the crude, by a 
second sublimation in cast-iron vessels. The 
arsenic, as imported, has usually been thus 
pmified; and, unless otherwise adulterated, 
is sufficiently pure for general purposes. It 
is sometimes kept in fine powder, and in this 
state is occasionally found adulterated with 
powdered lime or chalk ; it is, therefore, bet- 
ter to purchase it in the lump. The salts of 
arsenious acid are called arsenites. 

3936. Self- Detecting Arsenious 
Acid. By adding a small quantity of any of 
the following substances to ordinary white 
arsenic, the mixture changes color when 
mixed with liquids. This is proposed as a 
method of preventing mistake in the use of 
this poisonous article. 

The addition of a small quantity of a mix- 
ture of dry calomel and quickhme to the 
arsenic turns hlach when mixed with a liquid. 

A mixture of thoroughly dry sulphate of 
iron and ferrocyanide of potassium turns it 
blue. 

Dry sulphate of iron and dry sulphate of 
soda turns green. 



370 



ACIDS. 



3937. Tests for the Presence of Ar- 
senious Acid. A "vreak solution of am- 
monio-acetate of copper added to a solution 
of white arsenic (arsenious acid) throws 
down a grass green precipitate of arsenite of 
copper (Scheele's green) This precipitate, 
after being washed, is soluble iu nitric acid, 
and in ammonia; is turned a brownish-red 
by a solution of sulphuretted hydrogen, 
blood-red by ferrocyanide of potassium, and 
yellow by nitrate of silver. 

Arsenious acid in solution throws down a 
yellow precipitate of arsenite of silver from 
a solution of ammonio-nitrate of silver. 

There are a number of delicate tests em- 
ployed for detecting the presence of arsenic 
in organic matter, such as the contents of 
the stomach or other viscera, all more or less 
involving the preparation of the matter before 
applying the tests, and requiring the manipu- 
lation of an experienced analytical chemist. 
A very susceptible test, and recommended by 
Cooley for its simplicity, is as follows : A so- 
lution of the suspected matter is strongly 
acidulated with muriatic acid in the pro- 
portion of 1 part mmiatic acid to from 5 to 9 
parts of the solution; this is boiled in a 
porcelain or glass vessel containing bright 
and clean metallic copper in the form of 
sheet, gauze, or wire. In about 15 minutes, if 
the solution be weak, or less, if strong, 
presence of arsenic will be noted by the 
characteristic iron-gray film of arsenic de- 
posited on the sm-face of the copper. The 
copper, having been carefully washed and 
dried, may be cut into small pieces and heated 
in a test tube over a spirit lamp, when the 
metallic arsenic is volatilized, and will be con- 
densed either in metallic form or in crystals 
of arsenious acid. This is known as Hensch's 
test. 

3938. Arsenic Acid. An acid formed 
by the combination of metallic arsenic with 
oxygen. It is sour, reddens litmus, and 
forms salts with the bases, which are termed 
ARSENiATES. By carcful evaporation it may 
be obtained under the form of small grains, 
but usually has the consistence of syrup, be- 
ing very deliquescent. 

3939. To Obtain Arsenic Acid. Pour 
6 parts of strong nitric acid on 1 part of white 
arsenic (arsenious acid) in a glass vessel, and 
distill until the solution acquires the consist- 
ence of a syrup, then transfer it into a 
platina crucible, and expose it for some time 
to a faint dull red heat, to expel the nitric 
acid. The addition of a little muriatic acid 
facilitates the process. 

3940. Tests for the Presence of Ar- 
senic Acid. Sulphuretted hydrogen gives 
a yellow precipitate ; nitrate of silver added 
to the solution of an arseniate gives a pre- 
cipitate of a brick red color ; nitrate of lead 
gives a white one, and the salts of copper a 
bluish colored one. Pure lump sugar dis- 
solved in an aqueous solution of arsenic acid, 
becomes in a few hours of a reddish color, and 
afterwards of a magnificent purple. For 
some test purposes it will be advisable to add 
sulphurous acid to the suspected liquor, and 
boil it for a short time, when the arsenic acid 
will be reduced to arsenious acid, in which 
state it will be susceptible of more delicate 
tests. (See No. 3937.) 



3941. Manganesic Acid— also called 
permanganic acid — may be obtained by mix- 
ing 8 parts of binoxide of manganese with 7 
parts of chlorate of potassa, both in fine pow- 
der, adding 10 parts of hydrate of potassa, 
dissolved in a small quantity of water, evap- 
orating to dryness, powdering, exposing the 
powder to a low red heat in a^platiuum cruci- 
ble, dissolving the mass in a large quantity of 
water, decanting, evaporating, and crystalliz- 
ing. These crystals are permanganate of po- 
tassa, from which the acid may be obtained 
by conversion into permanganate of baryta, 
and by careful decomposition by dilute sul- 
phuric acid. (Gregory.) It has a fine red 
color, bleaches, and is rapidly decomposed by 
organic matter. It unites with some of the 
bases to form permanganates. 

3942. Benzoic Acid. This is also 
called flowers of benzoin or benjamin. It has 
the form of white crystaUiue needles of a 
silky lustre, possessing an agreeable odor. 
Benzoic acid fuses at 230° Fahr., is volatile 
when heated, dissolves sparingly in cold wa- 
ter, with less difficulty in boiling water, and 
very freely iti alcohol. Its salts are called 

BENZOATES. 

3943. To Obtain Benzoic Acid. Put 

coarsely triturated benzoin into an iron pot 
with a flat bottom, whose diameter is from 8 
to 9 inches; the benzoin forming therein a 
layer of from 1 to 2 inches in depth. The 
open end of the pot is then to be covered with 
a sheet of soft and loose blotting-paper, which 
must be attached to the rim with paste. A 
cone, formed with strong and thick paper, 
(cartridge paper), is then to be capped over 
the top of the pot, including the blotting 
paper ; and this is also to be attached with 
paste and string. The apparatus, thus pre- 
pared, should then be placed on the sand- 
bath, and exposed from 4 to 6 hours to a 
gentle heat. After this lapse of time, it may 
be removed from the sand-bath, inverted, and 
the string detached, when beautiful white 
needles, of a silky lustre, possessing the 
agreeable odor of benzoic acid, will be found 
in the paper cone. 

3944. To Obtain Anhydrous Benzoic 
Acid. Add oxy chloride of phosphorus to an 
excess of beuzoate of soda ; agitate together, 
and wash the mixture with boOing water. 
The anhydrous benzoic acid sinks like a 
heavy oil, and crystallizes on cooling. 

3945. Chromic Acid. This consists of 
acicular crystals of a crimson-red color and 
an acid metallic taste, deliquescent, and very 
soluble in water, forming an orange-yellow 
solution. "With the bases this acid forms 
CHROMATES. Chromatc of lead forms the 
pigment known as clirome-yelloiv. 

3946. To Obtain Chromic Acid. Take 
10 measures of a saturated cold solution of 
bichromate of potassa, mix with it 15 mea- 
sures sulphuric acid, and allow the mixture to 
cool. The chromic acid is deposited in crys- 
tals, which, after decanting the mother liquid, 
are placed on a tile to drain, covered with a 
bell glass. 

3947. Hydrocyanic Acid. This is also 
called prussic acid, and consists of a thin, 
colorless, and volatile hquid, having a strong 
odor of peach keraels. It boils at 79° Fahr. 
and solidifies at 45°; its specific gravity is 



.7058. It constitutes one of the most deadly 
poisons kuovrn. Its salts are hydrocyan- 
ATES and METALLIC CYANIDES. Prussic acid, 
even when dilute, is very liable to sponta- 
neous decomposition, and this speedily occurs 
when it is exposed to the light. To promote 
its preservation, it is usual to surround the 
bottles containing it with thick purple paper, 
and to keep them inverted in an obscure sit- 
uation. The addition of a very small quan- 
tity of muriatic acid renders it much less 
liable to change, and is generally made by 
manufacturers for that purpose. 

3948. To Obtain Anliydrous Prussia 
Acid. Pure crystallized ferrocyanide of po- 
tassium, 15 parts ; water and sulphuric acid, 
of each 9 parts ; distill in a glass retort into a 
well-cooled receiver, containing chloride of 
calcium in coarse fragments, 5 parts; stop 
the process as soon as the chloride in the re- 
ceiver is perfectly covered by the distilled 
fluid, and decant the acid into a bottle fur- 
nished with a good stopper. Keep it in the 
dark, with the bottle inverted. 

3949. Dilute Prussia Acid. Mix 41 
grains muriatic acid with 1 fluid ounce dis- 
tilled water, add 501- grains cyanide of silver, 
and shake together in a well stopped phial. 
'When the precipitate has subsided, pour ofi" the 
clear dilute acid and keep for use. {See No. 
3947.) {U. S. Ph.) 

3950. Tests for the Presence of Prus- 
sia Acid. It is distinguished by a strong 
odor of bitter almonds. 

i!^eutralized by potash, and tested with a 
solution of sulphate or tincture of iron, it 
gives a blue precipitate, or one turning blue 
on the addition of dilute sulphuric or muriatic 
acid. This test may be applied by spreading 
a single drop of solution of potassa over the 
bottom of a white saucer or porcelain capsule, 
and inverting it over another vessel of the 
same size containing the matter under exam- 
ination. After 2 to 5 minutes remove the 
upper capsule ; add to the potassa upon it, a 
single drop of a solution of sulphate or tinc- 
ture of iron, and expose it to the air for a few 
seconds. jSText add 1 or 2 drops of dilute 
sulphuric acid, when a blue color will be de- 
veloped if hydrocyanic acid is present in the 
matter tested. 

J^itrate of silver gives a white clotty pre- 
cipitate, soluble in boiling nitric acid; and 
which, when dried and heated in a test tube, 
evolves fumes of cyanogen, which burn with 
a violet or bluish colored flame. A watch 
glass, moistened with this test and inverted 
over matter containing hydrocyanic acid, be- 
comes opaque and white from the formation 
of cyanide of silver. 

Liebig's test is considered the most delicate. 
Moisten a watch-glass or porcelain capsule 
with 1 or 2 drops of yellow hydrosulphuret of 
ammonia ; invert it over the matter as before, 
and after a few minutes dry it with a gentle 
heat. A glass rod dipped in a solution of a 
persalt or sesquisalt t)f iron, drawn over the 
glass, will form a blood-red streak if the | 
smallest quantity of hydrocyanic acid is pres- 
ent. (Coolei/.) 

3951. Test for the Strength of Prus- 
sia Acid. For estimating the strength of 
the commercial acid the following plan, pro- 
posed by Dr. Ure, will be found very exact 



ACIDS. 37X 

and convenient. To 100 grains, or any other 
convenient quantity of the acid contained in 
a small phial, add in succession, small quan- 
tities of the peroxide of mercury in fine 
powder, till it ceases to be dissolved on agita- 
tion. The weight of the red precipitate taken 
up being divided by 4, gives a quotient repre- 
senting the quantity of real prussic acid 
present. By weighing out beforehand, on a 
piece of paper or a watch-glass, 40 or 50 grains 
of the peroxide, the residual weight of it 
shows at once the quantity expended. The 
operation may be always completed in five 
minutes, for the red precipitate dissolves as 
rapidly in the dilate prussic acid, with the aid 
of slight agitation, as sugar dissolves in wa- 
ter. Should the presence of muriatic acid be 
suspected, then the difierence in the volatility 
of prnssiate and muriate of ammonia may be 
had recourse to with advantage ; the former 
exhaling at a very gentle heat, the latter re- 
quiring a subliming temperature of about 
300° Fahr. After adding ammonia in slight 
excess to the prussic acid, if we evaporate to 
dryness at a heat of 212°, we may infer from 
the residuary sal-ammoniac the quantity of 
muriatic acid present. Every grain of sal- 
ammoniac corresponds to ,6822 grains of mu- 
riatic acid. 

3952. Cyanic Acid. A compound of 
cyanogen and oxygen only known in its 
hydrated state in combination with 1 equiva- 
lent of water. It combines with bases to 
form CYAXATEs. "When in contact with wa- 
ter for a few hours it sufi'ers decomposition, 
and is converted into bicarbonate of ammonia. 
It cannot be preserved for any length of time, 
as it soon passes spontaneously into a white, 
opaque, solid mass, to which the name of 
ci/amelide has been given, which may be re- 
converted into cyanic acid by distillation. It 
reddens litmus strouglv. 

3953. To Obtain'^CyanicAcid. Distill 
dry cyanm-ic acid, or cyamelide, in a retort, 
and collect the product in a well-cooled re- 
ceiver. It is also formed when cyanogen 
is transmitted over carbonate of potassa 
heated to redness ; a cyanate of potassa re- 
sults. 

Or : Pass a current of sulphuretted hydro- 
gen gas through water in which cyanate of 
silver is diffused. The sulphuretted hydro- 
gen must not be passed so long as to decom- 
pose all the cyanate of silver; for then the 
cyanic acid is converted into other products 
by the excess of the sulphuretted hydrogen. 

3954. Hydroferridcyanic Acid. 
This is sometimes written lii/droferricijanic 
acid, and is a compound of femdcyanogen 
and hydrogen. 'With the oxides of metals 
this acid forms ferridcyanides ; the ferrid- 
cyanide of potassium is the red prussiate of 
potash used in the arts. 

3955. To Obtain Hydroferridcyanic 
Acid. Prepared by decomposing recently 
precipitated ferridcyanide of lead by sul- 
phuretted by hydrogen, or by sulphuric acid 
carefully added. A yeUow solution is thus 
obtained, which yields a deep brown powder 
when evaporated by heat, or yeUow crystals 
by spontaneous evaporation. 

3956. Hydroferrocyanic Acid. A 
peculiar compound of cyanogen, hydrogen, 
and inm, discovered bv M. Porret, and called 



372 



ACIDS. 



by him ferrocliyazic acid. It consists of 
white or yellowish white crystals, soluble in 
water and alcohol. With metallic oxides it 
combines to form ferroctanides or prus- 
siATES. The ferrocyanide of potassium is 
the yellow prussiate of potash of commerce. 

3957. To Obtain Hydroferrocyanic 
Acid. It may be obtained from a concen- 
trated boiling solution of ferrocyanide of po- 
tassium, cooled out of contact with the air, 
and muriatic acid added in excess. The mix- 
ture is then agitated with a little ether, which 
separates the acid ; the latter is collected by 
filtration, and dried. 

3958. Lactic Acid. This is a limpid, 
syrupy liquid, colorless or of a pale wine 
color, with a slight odor and very sour taste. 
It is found in sour milk, and some other ani- 
mal fluids, and in several vegetable juices, es- 
pecially in that of beet-root. It unites with 
bases to form lactates. 

3959. To Obtain Lactic Acid. Fer- 
ment whey by keeping it at a temperature of 
70° to 80° Fahr. ; evaporate the liquor to ^ its 
bulk ; decant and filter, and then saturate it 
with milk of lime. This converts the lactic 
acid into lactate of lime, which remains in so- 
lution. The liquor is filtered again and pre- 
cipitated by oxalic acid, which throws down 
oxalate of lime and sets free the lactic acid. 
The liquid is again filtered, and the filtrate 
consists of a solution of lactic acid, containing 
some sugar of milk (lactin) and certain salts. 
ISText concentrate the solution to a leyrupy 
consistence, and treat it with alcohol, which 
dissolves the acid and precipitates aU the 
other matter. The solution is finally filtered 
and the lactic acid obtained pure by distilling 
off the alcohol. ( U. S. Dis. ) 

\ 3960. Fluoric Acid. This is more 
strictly hydrofluoric acid, as it is a compound 
of hydrogen and fluorine. Its combinations 
with bases are called fluorides or hydro- 
fluorates. The well known mineral, fluor- 
spar, is a fluoride of calcium. Fluoric acid 
readily dissolves glass and silica, hence it is 
kept in bottles of lead, silver, platinum, or pure 
gutta-percha. It is highly corrosive and its 
vapor is poisonous. It is a colorless fluid 
which evaporates at 59° Fahr. in dense white 
fumes when exposed to the air, and has a 
powerful affinity for water. 

3961. T9 Obtain Fluoric Acid. The 
anhydrous acid is made by distiUing powdered 
fluor-spar with twice its weight of oil of vitriol 
in a leaden, or better, a silver alembic, the 
pipe of which fits into a bottle of the same 
material, surrounded with ice. But as it is 
usually required in a diluted state, water 
equal "^in weight to the spar may be put into 
the receiver. Great care must be taken, as 
the acid, both in its gaseous and liquid form, 
is very destructive. 

3962. Chloric Acid. This is a yellow- 
ish liquid, smeUiug like nitric acid ; it sets 
fire to paper or other dry organic matter. It 
is a compound of chlorine and oxygen, and in 
combination with bases forms chlorates. 

3963. To Obtain Chloric Acid. Dis- 
solve chlorate of baryta in 16 times its weight 
of water ; then add flilute sulphuric acid until 
all the baryta be precipitated as sulphate. 
The clear liquid may then be concentrated by 
evaporation to a thin, oily consistence. 



3964. Perchloric Acid. A colorless 

liquid of about 1.65 specific gravity, which 
fumes slightly in the air, attracts moisture, 
and distills unchanged at about 392° Fahr. 
(Cooley.) "With bases it forms perchlo- 
rates. 

3965. To Obtain Perchloric Acid. 
To finely powdered perchlorate of potassa 
contained in a retort, add about | its weight 
of strong sulphuric acid, previously diluted 
with an equal weight of water. At about 
284° Fahr., vapors of perchloric acid pass 
over and condense in the receiver. (Cooley.) 
No organic matter should be used as a lute 
for the joints of the apparatus ; if any be need- 
ed, it should be of asbestos. By distilling the 
concentrated liquid acid with oil of vitriol at 
a gentle heat, crystals of perchloric acid will 
be deposited on the neck of the retort and in 
the receiver. These crystals fuse at 113° 
Fahr., and are very deliquescent. (Booth.) 

3966. Butyric Acid. A thin, colorless, 
oily liquid, soluble in water and alcohol; 
specific gravity .963 ; boils at 327° Fahr. It 
may be procured from the butyrate of mag- 
nesia by adding a little sulphuric acid in quan- 
tity not quite sufficient to decompose the whole 
of the butyrate used; filter and distill the 
clear liquor, when the product will be butyric 
acid, from which the water may be removed 
by chloride of calcium. It forms hutyrates 
with some of the bases. (See No. 1625.) 

3967. Malic Acid. Malic acid is very 
soluble in water, slightly deliquescent, has a 
pleasant acidulous taste, and, when neutral- 
ized with the bases, forms salts called malates. 
When kept fused for some time at a low heat, 
it is converted into paramalic or fumaric 
acid ; and when quickly distilled, it yields 
maleic acid, while fumaric acid is left in the 
retort. Malic acid forms with bases, malates; 
maleic acid, maleates. Take the juice of the 
fruit of the mountain ash, immediately after 
it has turned red, but still unripe ; heat it to 
the boiling point, skim, filter, nearly neu- 
tralize with ammonia, and precipitate with 
a solution of 1 part of acetate of lead to every 
72 parts of juice ; filter, and again precipitate 
with nitrate of lead ; allow the whole to stand 
until it forms a mass of crystals, then well 
wash, dry, powder, suspend in water, and de- 
compose by a current of sulphuretted hydro- 
gen; again filter, neutralize with ammonia, 
decolor with animal charcoal, a second time 
precipitate with nitrate of lead, and decom- 
pose the resulting nitrate of lead by sulphur- 
etted hydrogen; lastly, filter, evaporate and 
crystallize. (WincMer.) Mr. Everett pro- 
poses the juice of the leaf-stalks of garden 
rhubarb as a source of malic acid. One im- 
perial gallon of this juice contains 11,139^ 
grs. of dry malic acid. The stalks should 
be peeled before pressing out the juice, as the 
cuticle contains much color. Everett's pro- 
cess is as follows : Neutralize with hydrate of 
lime, boil, filter, precipitate with nitrate of 
lead, allow it to stand for a few hours, boil, 
cool, filter, decompose the precipitate with 
sulphuric acid, avoiding excess, throw down 
the excess of lead from the supernatant por- 
tion with sulphuretted hydrogen, evaporate, 
and crystallize. Malic acid is also obtained 
from the juice of apples and several other 
sorts of fruit. 



ALKALIES 



373 



3968. Iodic Acid. A compound of iod- 
ine and oxygen, forming iodates with the 
bases. It is deliquescent and very soluble in 
vater, and detonates with inflammable bod- 
ies like the nitrates and chlorates. 

3969. To Obtain lodit Acid. Dis- 
solve iodate of soda in sulphuric acid in con- 
siderable excess, boil for 15 minutes, and set 
the solution aside to crystallize. 

Or : Iodine, 1 part ,: strongest (monohydra- 
ted) nitric acid, 4 parts; mix, and apply a 
gentle heat until the color of the iodine dis- 
appears, then evaporate to dryness and leave 
the residuum in the open air at a temperature 
of about 59'^ Fahr. "\yhen, by attracting 
moisture, it has acquired the consistence of a 
syrup, put it into a place where the tempera- 
ture is higher and the air drier, when, in a 
few days, very fine white crystals of rhom- 
boidal shape will form. 

Mr. A. Connell's method is as follows : Put 
50 grains of iodine into a large, tall flask: 
add 1 ounce of fuming nitric acid, boil, and 
as the iodine sublimes and condenses on the 
sides of the flask, continually wash it back 
again with the acid. Continue this until 
none of the iodine remains unchanged. Then 
pour the whole into a shallow evaporating 
dish, and evaporate to dryness. Redissolve, 
and again evaporate till all the nitrous acid is 
got ri(i of. 

3970. Hydriodic Acid. This is a com- 
pound of iodine and hydrogen. In gaseous 
form it is colorless, fumes in the air, and is 
very soluble in water. In liquid form, when 
strong, it is very liable to change, and should 
be kept in well stoppered bottles. In combi- 
nation with bases it forms hydriodates. 
The hydriodates may be easily formed by 
saturating the acid with the oxides or hydrates 
of the bases, or more economically, by acting 
on the bases in water, with iodine, ^hen the 
hydriodates are deprived of their water, they 
are true iodides; that is, simple combina- 
tions with iodine. (See JVb. 3853.) 

3971. To Obtain Hydriodic Acid. 
Pour a little water over some periodide of 
phosphorus, previously put into a small glass 
retort, and apply a gentle heat, when gaseous 
hydriodic acid will be evolved, and phosphoric 
acid remain behind. The gas may be either 
collected over mercury or passed into water, 
when liquid hydriodic acid will be formed. 

Or: Place iodide of barium in a retort, and 
decompose it with sulphuric acid, when pure 
hydriodic acid will be evolved. 

3972. Dilute Hydriodic Acid. Take 
1 troy ounce iodine in fine powder. Mix 30 
grains of the iodine with 5 fluid ounces dis- 
tilled water in a tall glass-stoppered i pint 
bottle, and pass into the mixture hydrosul- 
phuric acid gas until the color of the iodine 
entirely disappears, and a turbid liquid re- 
mains. iN'ext, gradually add the remainder of 
the iodine, stirring at the same time. Again 
pass the gas through the liquid until it be- 
comes colorless, and decant it into a small 
matrass which it must nearly fill ; boil it un- 
til it ceases to give ofi" the odor of hydrosul- 
phuric acid, and filter through paper, passing 
sufficient distilled water through the filter to 
bring the filtered liquid to 6 fluid ounces. 
JS;eep it in a well-stoppered bottle. ( U. S. 
Fh.) 



AlkdfliSS. Substances which possess 
the property of neutralizing acids and 
combmiog with them in fixed proportions, 
forming salts, and for the most part of turn- 
ing the vegetable blues to greens, and yel- 
low turmeric paper brown. The principal 
alkalies are soda, potassa, and ammonia. The 
first has been called the mineral, the second 
the vegetable, and the third the volatile 
alkali; but this distinction is now obsolete. 
Soda and potassa have also been called the 
fixed alkalies, from their permanence in the 
fire. The alkalies are strictly metallic oxides. 
The salts of the alkalies, both alone and car- 
bonated, are generally freely soluble in water. 
The methods for ascertaining the strength of 
alkalies and their solutions will be found 
under Alkalimetry, !N"o. 83. 

3974. Potassa. Pure potash (not the 
potash of commerce, which is an impure car- 
l3onate of potassa), is the oxide of potassium. 
It occurs in two forms, anhydrous and luj- 
drated potassa. As a general distinction, the 
term potash applies to the crude commer- 
cial, and potassa to the more purified or 
chemical preparations. 

3975. Anhydrous Potassa. This is a 
volatile, fusible, white substance, intensely 
corrosive, and passing into the hydrate of po- 
tassa when moistened with water. It is 
obtained by the combustion of potassium in 
hot dry air. 

3976. Hydrate of Potassa. Hydrated 
or caustic potassa, when perfectly pure, is 
white, solid, very soluble in water and in al- 
cohol, very deliquescent, and corrosive. To 
obtain it, evaporate solution of potassa rapid- 
ly in an iron vessel over the fire until ebulli- 
tion ceases and the potassa melts. Pour this 
into suitable moulds, and, when cold, put it 
into stoppered bottles. 

3977. Tests for Potassa. Potassa 
may be distinguished from the other fixed 
alkalies (soda and lithia), by afibrding, when 
in solution, a white crystalline precipitate 
(cream of tartar) with an excess of tartaric 
acid; and a yellow one with bichloride of 
platinum. The flame of burning alcohol con- 
taining potassa has a reddish tint; soda colors 
it yellow. 

3978. Soda. This substance bears the 
same relation to its metallic base, sodium, . 
that potassa does to potassium, but its basic 
and alkaline action are rather less powerful 
than those of potassa. 

3979. To Obtain Soda. Pure soda 
and hydrate of soda (caustic soda) are ob- 
tained from carbonate of soda in a similar 
manner to the same preparations of potassa. 
Caustic soda is occasionally called sodic hy- 
drate. 

3980. Tests for Soda. The flame of 
burning alcohol containing soda is of a yellow 
color. Hydrate of soda, after it has deli- 
quesced in the air, speedily resolidifies by the 
absorption of carbonic acid, forming carbonate 
of soda, a salt marked by being easUy crys- 
tallizable, and rapidly efflorescing in dry air. 
In solution, soda is not precipitated by tar- 
taric acid. "With sulphuric acid it yields a 
salt, which by its taste (intensely bitter) and 
form (six-sided prisms, transparent, and ex- 
tremely efflorescent) is easily recognized as 
sulphate of soda (Glauber's salt). 



374 



ALKALIES. 



8981. Ammonia. Pure ammonia is an 
incondensable colorless gas, possessing great 
pungency and acridness, and powerful alka- 
line properties. Watsr readily absorbs about 
500 times its volume of this substance, and in 
tbis state forms strong liquid ammonia; 
wMcb, wben much more dilute, is popularly 
known as spirits of hartshorn, or 'water of 
ammonia. As usually met with in the form 
of a semi-crystalline whitish mass, commonly 
called smeUing salts, it is combined with car- 
bonic acid and water, forming a sesquicar- 
bonate of this base. Acco^-ding to the theory 
of Berzelius, ammonia should be the oxide of 
ammonium, a supposed but undiscovered 
metal. Its presence can always be detected 
by its pungent odor. 

3982. To Obtain Ammonia. Mix un- 
slacked lime with an equal weight of sal-am- 
moniac, both dry and in fine powder ; intro- 
duce the mixture into a glass retort, pnd join 
the beak by a collar of India-rubber to a glass 
tube about 18 inches long, which must He 
horizontally, and have its beak bent up ready 
to be placed under a glass jar, on the shelf of 
a mercurial pneumatic trough. Heat being 
applied by means of a spirit-lamp, and the air 
contained in the apparatus having been ex- 
pelled, the gas may be collected for use. 
Ammonia cannot be dried by means of chlo- 
ride of calcium. 

3983. Lithia. This is the oxide of lith- 
ium ; is caustic, alkaline, and sparingly solu- 
ble in water. One of its most remarkable 
properties is its power of corroding platinum. 
In the form of the hydrate it is white and 
translucent, does not deliquesce, but absorbs 
carbonic acid and becomes opaque. It is to 
be obtained from various minerals, and is also 
found in some mineral waters ; among which 
is that of the G-ettysburg spring. Pure lithia 
may be obtained by decomposing sulphate of 
lithia by acetate of baryta, and by expelling 
the acetic acid from the filtered solution by 
heat. 

3984. Tests for Lithia. It colors the 
flame of alcohol containing it a carmine red. 
It is distinguished from potassa and soda by 
its phosphate and carbonate being only spar- 
ingly soluble in water ; from baryta, strontia, 
and lime, by forming crystaUizable and soluble 
salts with sulphuric or oxalic acid ; and from 
magnesia, by the solution of its carbonate ex- 
hibiting an alkaline reaction. 

3985. Barjrta. This alkaline earth is 
the oxide of barium, and is found abundantly 
in the form of native sulphate and carbonate 
of baryta. "With the acids it forms salts 
which are all more or less white ; except the 
sulphate, they are soluble in water, or in 
dilute muriatic acid, and are extremely poi- 
sonous. 

3986. To Obtain Pure Barjrta. Ignite 
pure crystallized nitrate of baryta in a capa- 
cious porcelain crucible, until red vapors 
cease to be evolved. This forms a grayish 
white mass or powder, which, on the addition 
of water, slacks like lime, but with the evolu- 
tion of more heat. 

3987. To Obtain Hydrated Barjrta. 
It may be precipitated from a solution of 
either nitrate or chloride of barium, by adding 
to it a solution of pure potassa or soda, col- 
lecting and drying the precipitate. 



It is obtained in crystals, by boiling a 
strong solution of sulphuret of barium with 
successive portions of black oxide (protoxide) 
of copper, until it ceases to give a black pre- 
cipitate with a salt of lead. The liquid, after 
filtration, yields crystals of hydrate of baryta 
on cooling. 

3988. Test for Baryta. Its solutions 
give an immediate clear white precipitate 
with dilute sulphuric acid, which is iusoluble 
in both acids and alkalies. 

3989. Strontia. An alkaline earth, the 
oxide of a metal called strontium. It greatly 
resembles baryta. Hydrate of strontia is 
freely soluble in boiling water, and the satura- 
ted solution deposits crystals on cooling. The 
solution exhibits an alkaline reaction, and, 
Hke baryta, is precipitated white by sulphuric 
acid and the alkaline sulphates and carbon- 
ates. It is distinguished from baryta by its 
inferior solubility and by its soluble salts giv- 
ing a red tinge to flame, while the salts of 
baryta impart a yellow tinge. The salts of 
strontia may all be prepared by dissolving the 
native carbonate in the respective acids. The 
nitrate is the only one met with in com- 
merce, and is employed to form colored fire- 
works. 

3990. Magnesia. An alkaline earth, 
the oxide of the metal magnesium, in the form 
of a very light, white, odorless and tasteless 
powder, almost insoluble in cold and boiling 
water. It slowly absorbs carbonic acid from 
the atmosphere. "With the acids it forms 
salts, most of which may be made by the 
direct solution of the earth, or its hydrate of 
carbonate. It dissolves in hydrochloric acid 
without efiervescence. ISTeither bicarbonate 
of potassa nor chloride of barium throws 
down anything from the solution. It turns 
turmeric paper brown when moistened. 

3991. To Obtain Magnesia. Expose 
carbonate of magnesia in a crucible to a fuU 
red heat for 2 hours, or till the powder sus- 
pended in water does not effervesce on the 
addition of muriatic acid. On the large scale, 
covered crucibles, made of porous eariheu' 
ware, are employed as the containing vessels, 
and the heat is apphed by placing them in a 
sort of furnace or oven heated with coke. 

3993. Test for Magnesia. Magnesia 
is precipitated as a bulky white hydrate, by 
pure alkalies; and as a bulky white carbonate 
by the carbonates of potassa and soda. Both 
the above precipitates dissolve in nitric and 
muriatic acid, forming salts which are very 
deliquescent, and soluble in alcohol. 

Solutions of magnesian salts are not preci- 
pitated by the alkaline sulphates or sulphuric 
acid, nor, when very dilute, by oxalate of 
ammonia. By these tests it may be distin- 
guished and separated from lime. These 
tests distinguish it from the other earths, and 
its insolubility in alkaline solutions marks its 
difference from alumina. 

3993. Lime. A highly acrid, alkaline 
and caustic earth, less insoluble in cold than 
in hot water. It is the oxide of calcium. 
When heated to a high degree, it becomes in- 
tensely luminous, and is weU known in use as 
the calcium light. 

3994. To Obtain Lime. Lime, or quick- 
lime, IS obtained by exposing limestone, or 
chalk, which are carbonates of lime, to a red 



ALKALOIDS, 



375 



Iieat. Shell-lime is got in the same manner 
from the shells of the oyster and other shell- 
fish. When sprinkled with water, heat is gen- 
erated, and the lime, combining with the water, 
crumbles down into a powder, which is hy- 
drate of lime, or slacked lime. 

3995. Tests for Lime. The alkaline 
carbonates, phosphates, oxalates, and sul- 
phates, occasion white precipitates in solutions 
of lime. The precipitates occasioned by the 
first three tests are soluble in dilute nitric or 
muriatic acid ; that by the last is insoluble in 
those menstrua, but soluble in solution of 
salt, and not reprecipitated by dilute sulphuric 
acid. 

Oxalate of ammonia or potassa is the most 
delicate test of lime. If the substance under 
examination be a solid, dissolve it in muriatic 
acid, filter, evaporate to dryness, redissolve 
in water, and test as above. All the soluble 
salts of lime tinge the flame of alcohol of an 
orange color, but this may be confounded 
with the color produced by the salts of 
strontia. 



Alkd/loidS. substances of a vegeta- 
/A. ble origin, analogous to the alkahne 
bases, in which the medicinal activity of the 
plants in which they are found appear to re- 
side. ( Cooley. ) Among the natural organic 
bases, or alkaloids, the following are the 
principal, as enumerated by Professor Fownes. 

3997. Morphine or Morphia. This is 
the chief active principle of opium. The 
morphia of commerce is a white crystalline 
powder; but when crystallized in alcohol, 
forms brilliant, prismatic, transparent, and 
colorless crystals, which turn nitric acid red. 
In powder, unlike strychnine, it is fusible 
without decomposition, and strongly decom- 
poses iodic acid. It is insoluble in ether, 
scarcely soluble in water, and freely soluble 
in alcohol. Potassa and ammonia precipi- 
tate morphia from the solutions of its salts. 

3998. To Find the Percentage of 
Morphia in Opium. An excellent process 
for ascertaining the quality of opium is to 
boil an infusion of 100 grains opium with 25 
grains quicklime, made into a milk with wa- 
ter ; to filter while hot, saturate with a dilute 
hydrochloric acid, and to precipitate the 
morphia by ammonia. After expelUng any 
excess of ammonia by heat, the precipitate is 
collected, dried, and weighed; the weight in 
grains will nearly represent the percentage of 
morphia in the opium. 

3999. Narcotine. An alkaloid found 
in the insoluble portion of opium, and forms 
small, colorless, brilliant crystals, which give 
to nitric acid an orange tint. 

4000. Codeine, or Codeia. Obtained 
from hydrochlorate of morphia, in colorless, 
tremsparent, eight- sided crystals, which do not 
color nitric acid red. 

4001. Thebaine, or Paramorphine. 
This is also obtained from opium in colorless 
needles like those of narcotine. It does not 
color nitric acid red, and is much less soluble 
in water than codeine. 

4002. Cinchonine, or Cinchonia. This 
is the active principle of Peruvian bark, con- 
tained in the largest quantity in the pale bark. 
It crystallizes in small, brilliant, transparent, 



four-sided prisms, insoluble in ether. Cin- 
chonicine and cinchonidine are other varie- 
ties of this alkaloid. 

4003. Quinine, or duinia. This is also 
obtained from Peruvian bark, being found 
in largest quantity in the yellow variety of 
the bark. It crystallizes in small white nee- 
dles. It may be distiuguished from cinchonine 
by the form of its crystals, and its solubility 
in ether. 

4004. QiXiinoidine, or Amorphous Quinine, 
is a yellow or brown resinous mass, identical 
in composition with quinine. Quinicine and 
quinidine are also varieties of quinine. {See 
Nos. 4025, #c.) 

4005. Strychnine, or Strychnia. This 
is an alkaloid contained in nux vomica, and 
some other vegetable substances. Crystal- 
lizes in small, brilliant, eight- sided crystals, 
insoluble in absolute alcohol, and slightly 
soluble in water. It suff'ers decomposition 
on fusing, and does not decompose iodic 
acid ; it may be thus distinguished from mor- 
phine. 

4006. Brucine, or Brucia. Is ob« 
tained from the same sources as strychnine, 
and resembles it in many respects, but is 
readily soluble in all strengths of alcohol, and 
insoluble in water. Brucine turns nitric acid 
red, which becomes violet on the addition of 
protochloride of tin. 

4007. Veratrine, or Veratria. The 
alkaloid principle of cevadUla seeds, and of 
white hellebore. "WTien pure, it is a white 
powder ; but as usually met with, the powder 
is yellowish or greenish-white, insoluble in 
water. 

4008. Colchicine. Extracted from the 
seeds of the common meadow saffron; has 
similar properties to veratrine, but is crystal- 
line, and soluble in water. 

4009. Harmaline. A substance form- 
ing yellowish prismatic crystals, obtained 
from the Peganum Harmala, a plant abound- 
ing in southern Russia. By oxidation it 
yields Harmine, a fine red dye-stuff, also pos- 
sessing basic properties. 

4010. Theine, or Caffeine. This is an 
alkaloid principle extracted from tea, coffee, 
Paraguay tea, &c. It forms in tufts of white 
silky needles. 

4011. Theobromine. A white crystal- 
line powder obtained from the cacao-nuts 
from which chocolate is prepared. Its proper- 
ties are somewhat similar to theine. 

4012. Xanthine. A white powder, 
which may be obtained from guanine, which 
it resembles in its properties. It dissolves 
easily in ammonia or potash. 

4013. Creatine. This alkaloid, called 
by some hrcatine, is a crystallizable substance 
obtained from the juice of the muscular fibre 
of animals. It forms brilliant, colorless pris- 
matic crystals. Creatine is a neutral body 
combining with neither acids nor alkalies. 
By the action of strong acids it is converted 
into creatimne, a powerful organic base, 
with a strong alkaline reaction, and forming 
crystallizable salts with acids. Creatine, treat- 
ed by boiling with a solution of baryta, pro- 
duces Sarcosine. 

4014. Sarcine. This base is a constitu- 
ent of the flesh of animals. It forms in 
delicate white microscopic needles, soluble 



376 



ALKALOIDS. 



•with difficulty in cold water, easily in boiling 
water. It is obtained from the same som-ce 
as creatine. (See Xo. 4013.) 

4015. Guanine. A base obtained from 
guano. It is a colorless, crystalline powder, 
insoluble in water, alcohol, ether or ammonia. 
By treating guanine with muriatic acid and 
chlorate of potassium, guanidine is obtained 
in colorless crystals, readily soluble in water 
and alcohol. 

Guanine, Sarcine, and Xanthine greatly re- 
semble one another. 

4016. Berberine. An alkaloid crystal- 
lizing in fine yellow needles slightly soluble 
in water, extracted from Barberry root. 

4017. Piperine. An alcoholic extract 
of pepper forming colorless or yellowish crys- 
tals. Insoluble in water. 

4018. Conine, or Conia. An alkaloid ex- 
tract of hemlock, in the form of a volatile, 
oily liquid. It evolves an odor of hemlock 
on being moistened with a solution of po- 
tassa. 

4019. Nicotine, or Nicotia. This is 
also a volatile, oily, acrid hquid, soluble in 
water, ether, alcohol, and oils. Mcotine, 
moistened with a solution of potassa, evolves 
a strong odor of tobacco. 

4020. Sparteine. An alkaloid obtained 
from broom, also a volatile, oily hquid. 
Conine, nicotine, and sparteine are similar in 
character, being very poisonous, possessing 
strong alkaline reaction, and forming crystal- 
lizable salts with the acids. 

4021. Salicine. A white, crystaUine 
substance, found hi the bark and leaves of 
several kinds of poplar and wiUow ; but most 
abundantly in the white willow and the as- 
pen. It is obtained by the careful evapora- 
tion of an infusion in cold water. 

4022. To Obtain Alkaloids. Some of 
these substances require special processes for 
extracting them from the substances in which 
they are found, but the following methods 
will apply for general purposes : 

^When the base is insoluble ia water, non- 
volatile, and existing in the plant in an insol- 
uble form. Boil or macerate the bruised 
plant in water acidulated with muriatic acid, 
filter, neutralize the acid with an alkali, (am- 
monia, lime, or magnesia), and collect the 
precipitate, which must be purified by reso- 
lution in dilute acid, digestion with animal 
charcoal, and subsequent crystallization or 
precipitation by an alkah ; or the first precip- 
itate may be purified by dissolving it repeat- 
edly in alcohol. 

When the base is insoluble in water, and 
non-volatile, but existing in the plant in a 
soluble state. Boil or macerate in hot water 
as before ; filter and precipitate by adding an 
alkali ; purify as last. 

"When the base is soluble in water, and 
non- volatile. Make an infusion with a dilute 
acid (muriatic) ; concentrate by a gentle 
heat ; treat the hquor with potassa and 
ether (conjointly) ; decant and evaporate. 

"When the base is both soluble in water and 
volatile. The vegetable or its extract may 
be mixed with potassa and distilled; the 
product, neutralized with oxahc or sulphuric 
acid, carefully evaporated to dryness, and 
digested in alcohol, and this solution agitated 
with potassa and ether; the ethereal solu- 



tion thus formed, if carefully evaporated, 
leaves the base nearly pure. It may be 
further puiified by cautious distillation. 

4023. Tests for Distiaguishing Al- 
kaloids. Perchloride of gold is a decisive 
test of certain vegetable alkahes. The follow- 
ing are the colors of the precipitates which it 
produces with the salts of the annexed alkalies 
dissolved in water; quinine, bufi"-colored ; 
cinclwnine, sulphur- y ellow ; morjjhine, yel- 
low, then bluish, and lastly, violet; in this 
last state the gold is reduced, and the precip- 
itate is insoluble in water, alcohol, the caustic 
alkahes, and sulphuric, nitric, or hydrochloric 
acids; brucijie, milk, coflee, and then choco- 
late-brown; strychnine, csmsirj-jeWoy^ ; vara- 
trine, slightly greenish-yellow. All these 
precipitates, with the exception mentioned, 
are very soluble in alcohol, insoluble in ether, 
and slightly soluble in water. Among the 
reactions of chloride of gold, there are two 
which appear to be especially important: 
they are those which occnr with morphine 
and brucine ; these are sufficiently marked to 
prevent these alkalies from being mistaken for 
each other, and also yield pretty good char- 
acteristics for distinguishing brucine from 
strychnine. 

4024. Alkaloids Detected by Picric 
Acid. Hager has found th^^t this acid pre- 
cipitates various alkaloids from their solu- 
tions, such as brucine, strychnine, veratrine, 
quinine, cinchonine, and some alkaloids of 
opium. Morphine and atropine, however, are 
precipitated only from neutral and concentra- 
ted solutions, and the precipitate dissolves 
pretty easily in water. Glucosides, casein, 
and pseudo-morphine resist the action of the 
picric acid. 

4025. Q,iiinometry. The method of 
estimating the quantity of quinine in cinchona 
bark and the salts obtained from it. The 
following tests give very accurate results in 
examining the bark ; and the salts are tested 
in the same way, but the result is not quite 
so accurate, as it includes any quinidine (see 
Xo. 4028) that may be present in the quinine; 
and makes, therefore, the apparent richness 
of the sample greater than it really is. 
(Cooley.) 

4026. Test for the Strength of dui- 
nine. Make a decoction of 100 grains of bark 
in 2 fiuid ounces distilled water; filter, and 
precipitate with a sufficient quantity of a con- 
centrated solution of carbonate of soda. Heat 
the fluid until the precipitate is dissolved; 
and when cold, dry and weigh it. It should 
weigh 2 grains or more, and dissolve entirely 
in a solution of oxalic acid. To render the 
result strictly accurate, the bark should be 
exhausted with ether, and the mixed solu- 
tions evaporated. Salts of quinine may be 
tested in the same manner. ( Cooley. ) 

4027. Test for the Percentage of 
Q,uinine in Bark, &c. Exhaust 100 grains 
of bark with acidulated water ; filter the so- 
lution, and render it alkaline with liquor of 
potassa; next agitate it with about ^ its 
volume of chloroform, and allow it to repose 
a short time ; the chloroform, holding the al- 
kaloid in solution, sinks to the bottom of the 
vessel in a distinct stratum, from which the 
supernatant hquid must be separated by de- 
cantation ; the chloroformic solution, either 



GAS. 



377 



at once or after being washed with a little 
cold water, is allowed to evaporate, and the 
weight of the residuum in grains gives the 
percentage of richness of the sample. Ether 
may be used instead of chloroform, but the 
ethereal solution wiU form the upper stratum 
instead of the lower. This test is also appli- 
cable to the salts of quinine, but with restric- 
tions refen-ed to in Xo. 4025. (Behoicrclain.) 

4028. Q,uiiiidine. An alkaloid found in 
quinia which has been prepared by precipita- 
tion. It is distinguished from quinine hy 
not striking a green color when treated with 
chlorine iollowed by ammonia, as quinine 
does. In medicinal character its powers are 
comparatively feeble. It is present in nearly 
all the ordinary sulphate (disulphate) of 
quinine as sold, either through careless pre- 
paration or wilful adulteration, and is not de- 
tected by, and consequently included in, the 
results of the usual tests for quinine. (See 
Nos. 4025, cj-c.) Cinchonine is another fee- 
bler alkaloid also found in quinia. 

4029. Tire's Test for the Presence 
of Q^iiinidine or Cinclionine in duinine. 
This test is applicable to quinine salts gener- 
ally, but more especially refers to the sul- 
phate (disulphate) of quinine. Place 10 grains 
of the salt into a strong test tube, furnished 
with a tightly-fitting cork ; add 10 drops of a 
mixture of 1 part sulphuric acid and 5 parts 
water, and 15 drops water, accelerating so- 
lution by a gentle heat. ^iVTien dissolved and 
entirely cooled, add 60 drops officinal sul- 
phuric ether with 20 drops spirits of am- 
monia, close the test tube with the thumb, 
and shake it well : cork the tube closely and 
shake gently from time to time, so that the 
bubbles of air may readily enter the layer of 
ether. If the salt be free from, or contain no 
greater proportion than 10 per cent, of quini- 
dine, it will be entirely dissolved ; while on 
the surface of contact between the two strata 
of fluid, the mechanical impurities only will 
be separated. From this it appears that 10 
grains of the salt may contain 1 grain of 
quinidine, and still a complete solution take 
place; but, in this case, the quinidine will 
shortly begin to crystallize in a layer of ether. 
If more than 10 per cent, of quinidine be 
present, there will be found an insoluble pre- 
cipitate between the strata of the fluid. If 
this be quinidine, it will be dissolved by the 
addition of ether, while cinchonine {see 
No. 4002) wiU be unafi'ected. 



Gas. A general term applied to aU 
aeriform or permanently elastic fluids, 
excepting the compound of oxygen and nitro- 
gen constituting the atmosphere, which is 
distinguished from the other gaseous bodies 
by the name of air. {See No. 4072.) Gases 
for chemical purposes are usually generated 
in a bottle of glass or other appropriate ma- 
terial ; or, where the application of heat is 
necessary, in a retort. A connecting tube of 
convenient shape is fitted air-tight into the 
neck or beak of the generating vessels, 
through which the gas is led into receiving 
vessels. These are usually bottles, with ac- 
curately fitting stoppers. 



4031. Pneumatic Trough. A vessel 
or tank nearly filled with water, provided 
with a shelf placed 1 or 2 inches below the 
surface. The receiving bottles are first im- 
mersed in and filled with the water and then 
placed neck downwards on the shelf, which 
is furnished with holes to allow of the passage 
of the gas into the receivers from the connect- 
ing tube, the end of which is brought imme- 
diately under one of the holes. For gases 
which are easily absorbed by water, mercury 
or some other fluid is necessary in place of 
the water. As the gas ascends into the re- 
ceiving bottle, the water is displaced ; when 
fuD, and the gas begins to escape, the bottle 
should be closed with a greased stopper, and 
removed from the trough. 

4032. To Find the "Weight of a Gas. 
Multiply the specific gravity of the gas by 
309^ (the weight in grains of 1000 cubic inches 
of air), the product Avill be the weight of 1000 
cubic inches of the gas. 

4033. To Prevent the Escape of Gas 
from India-Ruhher Tubing. India-rub- 
ber tubing is slightly i)ermeable to gas. The 
amount which escapes through the walls of 
the tube is very small ; but it may be advis- 
able sometimes to render an escape impossi- 
ble. This can be done by giving the tubing a 
thin coating of a vamish made by dissolving 
1\ parts molasses and 2 parts gum-arabic in 
7 parts of white wine and 3^ parts strong al- 
cohol. The molasses and gum must first be 
dissolved in the white wine, and the alcohol 
must be added very slowly, constantly stir- 
ring the mixture, or the gum will be thrown 
down. 

4034. Oxygen. An elementary gas, 
colorless, tasteless, odorless, and incombusti- 
ble, having a specific gravity of about 1.057. 
Oxygen enters largely into the composition of 
all nature ; being a constituent part of the at- 
mosphere {seeXo. 4072), upon which it confers 
the power of supporting life and combustion ; 
and water, present more or less through the 
whole world, contains about 88 per cent, by 
weight, or 33 per cent, by volume, of oxygen ; 
it constitutes also a portion of the majority 
of the mineral bodies that form the bulk of 
our globe. It is a powerful supporter of com- 
bustion, and its presence is essential to the 
existence of animal and vegetable life. Oxy- 
gen unites with certain other bodies in fixed 
proportions to form a class of acids distin- 
guished as oxygen acids or oxacids. {See 
No. 3853.) 

4035. To Obtain Oxygen Gas. Heat 
in a retort or flask, finely powdered chlorate 
of potassa, mixed with about one-fourth its 
weight of black oxide of manganese. The 
gas must be collected by attaching a tube to 
the flask, and passed into a receiving bottle 
in a pneumatic trough. {See Xo. 4031.) 

Or : Take chloride of potassa, or red oxide 
of mercury, expose it to the heat of a spirit' 
lamp, in a suitable vessel, and collect the 
gas. 

4036. Oxygen Gas from Bleaching 
Powder. Oxygen gas can be readily pre- 
pared by boiling bleaching powder (hypo- 
chlorite of lime) and nitrate of cobalt in a 
flask. Make a clear solution of the powder in 
water, put it into any convenient flask pro- 
vided with a perforated cork and tube, and 



878 



GAS. 



pour in a few drops of a solntion of nitrate or 
chloride of cobalt, and set it to boil. The 
gas, as it is evolved, is collected in a receiving 
bottle. (See No. 4031.) 

4037. To Obtain Oxygen Without 
Heat. According to M. Boettger, oxygen 
can be obtained in a very pure state by em- 
ploying binoxide of barium and peroxide of 
lead. Take equal parts of these substances 
and pour on weak nitric acid; the reaction 
commences immediately, and the gas can be 
collected as usual over cold water. (See No. 
4031.) 

4038. Pure Oxygen for Inhalation. 
Eliot recommends for the preparation of oxy- 
gen gas, to be used in medicine, the employ- 
ment of a mixture of equal parts of peroxide 
of barium and peroxide of lead. By pouring 
dilute nitric acid upon these salts, there is a 
violent effervescence and a copious evolution 
of pure oxygen gas. For greater security, 
the gas may be afterwards washed in water. 
As very little heat is necessary, the operation 
can be performed in any stout bottle, thus 
dispensing with the usual retorts. For great 
purity, the first portion of gas that evolves 
should be allowed to escape, as it contains 
the air which was in the apparatus. 

4039, To Obtain Oxygen on the 
Large Scale. Mtre is exposed to a dull red 
heat in an ii'on retort or gun barrel; 1 pound 
of nitre thus yields about 1200 cubic inches 
of oxygen, slightly contaminated with nitro- 
gen. ( Ure. ) 

4040. Tests for Oxygen. It is distin- 
guished from other gases by yielding nothing 
but pure water when mixed with twice its 
volume of hydrogen and exploded, or when a 
jet of hydrogen is burned in it. A recently 
extinguished taper, with the wick still red 
hot, instantly inflames when plunged into 
this gas. A small spiral piece of iron wire, 
ignited at the point and suddenly plunged 
into a jar of oxygen, burns with great bril- 
liancy and rapidity. 

4041. Hydrogen. A gaseous element, 
coloriess, combustible, and the lightest of 
ponderable bodies, its specific gravity being 
only .06935. It is a constituent part (about 
12 per cent, by weight, and 67 per cent, by 
volume) of water. According to Dumas, "it 
is a gaseous metal, as mercury is a liquid met- 
al." It forms an ingredient in all bodies that 
possess the power of burning with flame ; it 
burns with a pale bine flame, and, in combi- 
nation with carbon, constitutes the illuminat- 
ing gas in general use. In contact with 
spongy platinum it inflames spontaneously ; 
and, from its extreme lightness, is the best 
means employed for inflating balloons. It is 
one of the most useful elements in the ma- 
terial world. Hydrogen forms,, with other 
bodies, a class of acids called hydrogen acids 
or liydr acids. {See No. "^^h^.) 

4042. To Obtain Hydrogen Gas. 
Hydrogen gas is readily procured by pouring 
on fragments of zinc, in a glass bottle, or 
flask with a bent tube, or retort, some diluted 
sulphuric acid ( 1 measure of strong acid to 5 
of water). It may be collected over water. 
If zinc be not at hand, fine iron wire, or the 
turnings or filings of iron, may be substituted 
for it. To procure gas of great purity, dis- 
tilled zinc must be used, and it is advisable to 



pass the gas first through alcohol^ and then 
through a concentrated solution of pure po- 
tassa. Care must be taken that all the air has 
been driven out of each vessel before any 
light is applied, or an explosion will ensue. 

4043. Cheap Method of Obtaining 
Hydrogen. Take quicklime, slack it, let it 
cool and crumble into a dry hydrate ; then 
mix it with charcoal, coke, or peat, and heat 
in a retort. The hydrate of hme (slacked lime) 
gives up the water that was used in slacking 
it, and becomes quicklime. The water is de- 
composed into hydrogen and carbonic acid, and 
these two gases can be separated by passing 
them through water, or the carbonic acid may 
be economized by employing it in the manu- 
factm-e of bicarbonates. The quicklime can 
be again slacked and used as often as required. 

4044. Hydrogen Gas for Balloons. 
For this purpose hydrogen may be obtained 
by pouring slightly diluted muriatic acid upon 
an equal weight of zinc, in a covered vessel 
having a small tap or stop-cock in the top for 
filling the balloons. The vessel should be 
made of lead, to prevent corrosion. 

4045 . To Estimate the Buoyant Pow- 
er of Balloons. It will take about 12 cu- 
bic feet of the hydrogen gas, used for infla- 
ting balloons to balance or suspend 1 pound 
in the air. The rule used for balloons is as 
follows : The specific gravity of the gas com- 
pared with the air is .0693 ; 1 cubic foot of 
air weighs 527.04 grains, the cubic foot of gas 
weighs 36.93 grains ; and therefore there are 
527.04-36.93=490.11 grams difierence between 
the air and gas, in one cubic foot. Multiply 
this difference by the number of cubic feet in 
the balloon, and divide by 7,000. This wiR 
give the capacity or buoyancy of the balloon, 
in pounds ; then subtract the weight of the 
balloon and car. 

4046. For Obtaining Hydrogen in 
Q,uantities. Place iron wire in a gun- bar- 
rel, or a porcelain tube, open at both ends, to 
one of which attach a retort containing 
water, and to the other a bent tube, connect- 
ed with a pneumatic trough. The gun-barrel 
must now be heated to redness, and the water 
in the retort brought into a state of brisk 
ebullition, when the vapor will be decompos- 
ed, the oxygen being absorbed by the iron, 
and the hydrogen escaping into the gas re- 
ceiver. The gas evolved may be purified, if 
desired, by passing it through alcohol, &q. 
(^eeA^o. 4042.) 

4047. Tests For Hydrogen. Hydro- 
gen is recognized by its combustibility ; by the 
pale color of its flame ; by producing water 
only when burnt in air or oxygen ; by extin- 
guishing the flame of other bodies ; and by 
exploding when mixed with half its weight of 
oxygen and fired. ( Cooley.) 

4048. Carburetted Hydrogen. There 
are two leading gaseous compounds of carbon 
and hydrogen, known as carburetted hydro- 
gen, and distinguished as light and heavy. 

The light carburetted hydrogen is often abun- 
dantly disengaged in coal mines, and called 
methane, and fire damp. It consists of 2 
equivalents of hydrogen and 1 of carbon, and 
burns with a yellowish flame. This gas also 
escapes in bubbles from the mud on the bot- 
tom of stagnant pools, combined with car- 
bonic acid, from which it may be freed by 



GAS. 



379 



passing through milk of lime, or a solution 
of caustic potassa. ( Cooleij. ) It has a spe- 
cific gravity of about .559. ( Fownes.) 

Heavy carburetted hydrogen is a combina- 
tion of 2 equivalents of carbon and 2 of hydro- 
gen ( 4 carbon and 4 hydrogen — Booth ), and 
burns with a -white luminous flame ; it is a 
little lighter than air, having a specific gravity 
of .981. It is also called Ethinc. 

4049. To Obtain Light Carburetted 
Hydrogen. When 2 parts crystallized ace- 
tate of soda, 2 parts dry hydrate of potassa, 
and 3 parts powdered quicklime, are strongly 
heated in a flask or retort^ this gas is abund- 
antly evolved, and may be collected over 
water. {See No. 4031.) 

4050. To Obtain Heavy Carburetted 
Hydrogen. Heavy carburetted hydrogen is 
prepared by heating in a retort 1 part of alco- 
hol with C or 7 of oil of vitriol until it black- 
ens, and conducting the mixed gases through 
milk of lime, which retains the sulphurous 
acid ; and afterwards through oil of vitriol, 
which absorbs water, ether, and alcohol. This 
may also be prepared by passing the vapor 
of boiling alcohol through a mixtm-e of 10 
parts oil of vitriol and 3 parts water, heated 
to ebullition (320^ to 330° Fahr.), and purify- 
ing the vapor as before. 

4051. defiant Gas. A name given to 
heavy carburetted hydrogen, arising from its 
producing, in combination with chlorine, an 
oily-looking liquid. It is the presence of this 
gas which gives the illuminating power to 
coal-gas, which is a combination of light, 
heavy, and other hydrocarbons. 

4052. Sulphuretted Hydrogen. A 
compound of hydrogen and sulphur ; a color- 
less gas, possessing a powerful odor of rotten 
eggs ; specific gravity 1.171 ; it is absorbed by 
waterj forming liquid sulphuretted hydrogen, 
or hydrosulphuric acid. It is a powerful poi- 
son. Being considerably denser than air, it 
may be poured from its generatitig bottle into 
cavities, a scheme successfully employed by 
M. Theuard to destory rats in their holes, a 
method equally applicable to other vermin. 
It forms saline compounds with the alkaHes, 
and the earths termed HYDROSULPeATES or 
HYDROSULPnuRETS, and it precipitates metallic 
sulphurets from solutions of most of the met- 
als ; hence its value as a test. Air containing 
uTrorny of sulphuretted hydrogen will sensibly 
blacken a piece of white paper, moistened 
with a solution of acetate of lead. Sulphu- 
retted hydrogen is the active ingredient in the 
sulphurous mineral waters. 

4053. To Obtain Sulphuretted Hy- 
drogen. Mix together 2 parts of iron filings 
with 1 of sulphur into a thin pap with water, 
and heat it gently in an iron vessel. Combi- 
nation takes place with the evolution of 
heat forming sulpliuret of iron. Cover it till 
cold. On this compound, contained in a glass 
bottle, or other suitable apparatus, pour sul- 
phuric acid previously diluted with 7 parts of 
water, if more acid be afterwards required, 
dilute the strong acid with only 4 of water. 
The resulting gas is absorbed by water, and 
is therefore collected, in preference, over 
mercury. This is the plan commonly adopted 
in the laboratory. 

To obtain it pure, mix 1 part finely powder- 
ed tersulphuret of antimony, and 5 parts 



strong muriatic acid, in a small ^lass retort or 
flask : apply the heat of a spirit lamp, and 
collect the gas over mercurv. {See 2\o. 4031.) 

4054. Tests for Sulphuretted Hy- 
drogen. Sulphuretted hydrogen may be re- 
cognized by the odor, and by its blackening 
moist carbonate of lead, and tarnishing sil- 
ver, and also by its precipitating arsenious 
acid yellow, tartar emetic orange, and the 
salts of lead black. 

4055. Phosphuretted Hydrogen. This 
is a gaseous combination of phosphorus and 
hydrogen; colorless, very fetid, slightly solu- 
ble in water, and burns with,a white flame. 
It has a specific gravity of 1.24. 

4056. To Obtain Phosphuretted Hy- 
drogen. The pure gas may be evolved by 
gently heating hydrated phosphorus acid in a 
small retort, and collecting it bv a pneumatic 
trough. {See Xo 4031.) 

The spontaneously inflammable variety of 
this gas is made by boiling phosphorus with 
solution of potash in a small retort, the beak 
of which is kept under water : as each bubble 
of gas rises from the water, it inflames, and 
forms a ring of white smoke, which dilates as 
it ascends. The spontaneous inflammability 
of the gas, when mixed with atmospheric air 
or oxygen, renders caution necessary in its 
preparation. 

4057. Nitrogen or Azote. An ele- 
mentary gaseous body. Pure nitrogen is a 
colorless, odorless, tasteless gas, neither com- 
bustible nor capable of supporting combustion 
or respiration. It is neutral to test paper, 
does not afifect lime water, and is only slightly 
absorbed by pure water. Liebig places its 
specific gravity at 0.9722, Berzelius at 0.976. 

4058. Tests for Nitrogen. It is rec- 
ognized by its purely negative quahties, and 
by its forming nitric acid when mixed with 
oxygen, and exposed to the electric spark ; 
or when a jet of hydrogen is bmut in the 
mixed gases. {Cooley.) 

4059. To Obtain Nitrogen. Atmos- 
pheric air may be made to yield an unlimited 
supply of nitrogen, by exposing it to the ac- 
tion of substances which combine with its 
oxygen. By burning a small piece of phos- 
phorus, placed on a capsule floating on the 
water in a pneumatic trough, imder a large 
bell-glass, and allowing it to stand over the 
water a few hours, nearly pm-e nitrogen is ob- 
tained, which may be frnther purified by agi- 
tating it with solution of pure potassa. It 
may be dried by passing it through concentra- 
ted oil of vitriol. 

iS"itrogen may be evolved by passing chlor- 
ine gay into a solution cf pure ammonia, and 
drying, as before, through sulphuric acid. 

Another plan, weU recommended, is to 
heat bichromate of ammonia in a retort. 
The evolved nitrogen is deprived of aU aque- 
ous vapor by sulphuric acid as above, or by 
letting it stand over fused chloride of cal- 
cium. 

4060. Protoxide of Nitrogen. This 
gas is also called nitrous oxide, and is largely 
used by inhalation, under the name of laugh- 
ing gas, to produce insensibility to pain. It 
is colorless, possesses an agreeable odor, and 
a sweetish taste. At 45° Fahr., and under a 
pressure of 50 atmospheres, it is liquid. Its 
specific gravity is 1.5241 ; it supports combus- 



380 



GAjS. 



tion, and is absorbed hy water. Its most re- 
markable property is its action on the system 
when inspired. A few deep inspirations are 
■Qsnally succeeded by a pleasing state of ex- 
citement, and a strong propensity to laughter 
and muscular exertion, which soon subside, 
without being followed by languor or depres- 
sion. Its effects, however, vary with different 
constitutions. 

4061. To Prepare Laughing Gas. 
Evaporate a solution of nitrate of ammonia 
until a drop of the fused mass placed on a 
cold plate instantly solidifies ; cool, break the 
lump into pieces, and place it in a stoppered 
bottle. For use, a portion is introduced into 
a glass retort, and heat applied by means of a 
spirit lamp. As soon as the heat reaches 480° 
Fahr., protoxide of nitrogen is evolved, and 
may be collected in bladders, gas bags, a gaso- 
meter, or in the pneumatic trough over warm 
water. {See JSFo. A031.) Should white fumes 
appear within the retort after the evolution of 
the gas has commenced, the heat should be 
lowered, as, when heated to about 600°, ni- 
trate of ammonia explodes with violence. 
Mtrous oxide may also be made in the same 
way from crystallized nitrate of ammonia, or 
by exposing nitric oxide for some days over 
iron filings, but it requires great care in its 
preparation. 

4062. Test for Pure Laughing Gas. 
"When pure, it is colorless, has an agreeable 
odor, and does not affect a solution of nitrate 
of silver. 

4063. Carbonic Acid. An invisible 
acidulous gas, formed by the union of 1 
equivalent of carbon with 2 of oxygen, having 
a specific gravity of 1.524, and higldy soluble 
in water. Its general properties and the 
methods of obtaining it will be found in ISTos. 
3913, &c. The application of this gas to the 
purposes of wine-making, &c., is given in 
1^0. 718. The methods for obtaining carbonic 
acid gas are given in 'No. 3914.. 

4064. Carbonic Oxide. A colorless, 
neutral gas, formed of equal equivalents of 
carbon and oxygen, and has a specific gravity 
of .913. It bums with a pale blue flame, 
and is even more poisonous than carbonic 
acid. 

4065. To Obtain. Carbonic Oxide. 
Carbonic oxide may be obtained from carbonic 
acid gas by passing the latter over fragments 
of charcoal heated to redness in a tube of por- 
celain or iron. 

Also, by treating binoxalate of potassa 
with 5 or 6 times its weight of oil of vitriol 
in a glass retort, at a gentle heat. 

Equal weights of chalk (or carbonate of 
soda) and iron filings (or charcoal), strongly 
heated in an iron retort or gun barrel, will 
evolve the gas rapidly. 

"Whichever way the gas is evolved, it must 
be passed first through a caustic alkahne so- 
lution or milk of lime, to deprive it of car- 
bonic acid, and next over dried chloride of 
calcium, to deprive it of moisture. It maybe 
collected either over mercury or water, as the 
latter absorbs but very little. 

4066. Sulphurous Acid. This is a 
gaseous combination of 1 equivalent of sulphur 
and 2 of oxygen, having a specific gravity of 
1.45, and very soluble in water, which will 
absorb 30 times its volume of the gas. Its 



properties, preparation, and application to the 
arts, will be found in JsTos. 3864, &c. 

4067. Ammonia. A highly pungent 
gas formed by the union of 1 equivalent of 
nitrogen with three of hydrogen. Its specific 
gravity is .589. {See Nos. 3981, <^c.) Double 
salts of am.monia are sometimes called am- 
MONiFRETS. Thus, sulphate or nitrate of cop- 
per precipitated in solution by ammonia, and 
the precipitate redissolved by an excess of 
ammonia, may be called ammoniurets of 
copper, but more correctly ammonio- sulphate, 
or ammonio-nitrate of copper. 

4068. Hydrochloric Acid. A gaseous 
acid formed of equal equivalents of hydrogen 
and chlorine. {See 2ios. 3882, ^x.) 

4069. Chlorine. An elementary gas, 
of a yellowish green color, a pungent, suffo- 
cating odor, and an astringent taste. Its spe- 
cific gravity is 2.47. Under a pressure of 4 
atmospheres it condenses into a yellow limpid 
liquid. Its most remarkable properties are its 
power of destroying almost all animal and 
vegetable color, and the putrid odor of decom- 
posing organic matter. It has a very strong 
attraction for metals. "With bases chlorine 
forms CHLORIDES or chlortjrets. {See iVb. 
3853.) 

4070. To Obtain Chlorine. This gas 
is obtained, for laboratory use, &c., by mixing 
together in a glass flask or retort, strong 
muriatic acid with half of its weight of finely- 
powdered peroxide of manganese. Or : Pour 
common muriatic acid, diluted with an equal 
weight of water, upon half its weight of 
chloride of lime. Chlorine gas is immediately 
evolved even in the cold, but much more 
rapidly on the application of a gentle heat. 
This gas must be collected in clean dry bot- 
tles by displacement. The tube conducting 
the gas must reach to the bottom of the bot- 
tle, when the chlorine, being heavier than the 
air, wiD. displace the latter, without mixing 
with it. The bottle is known to be full by 
the gas overflowing the mouth, which is 
easily perceived by its green color. The bot- 
tle must now be closed up with an accurately 
fitting stopper, previously greased, and an 
empty one put in its place, which is subse- 
quently treated in like manner. To free the 
gas entirely from muriatic acid, it may bo 
passed through water ; and to render it dry, 
it may be passed over dry chloride of calcium. 
Chlorine gas may also be collected over a 
saturated solution of common salt in the 
pneumatic trough, if the presence of moist- 
m-e be no objection. {See JVb. 4031.) 

4071. Tests for Chlorine. This gas is 
readUy distinguished from other gases by its 
color, odor, and bleaching properties. Its 
aqueous solution dissolves gold leaf, and in- 
stantly blackens a piece of silver plunged into 
it. It rapidly destroys the color of iodide of 
starch, solution of indigo, litmus, and trtrmeric. 
A simple method of detecting free chlorine is 
to hold a rod, dipped in water of ammonia, 
over it, when white fumes of sal-ammoniac 
will be formed ; this, coupled with the prop- 
erty of bleaching colors, may, in most cases, 
be taken as evidence of the presence of this 
substance. 

4072. Air. The air or atmosphere 
which surrounds the earth is a mixture (not 
combination — Fownes) of 77 parts by weight 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS, 



381 



(or 79.19 parts by measure) ef nitrogen, and 
23 parts by weight (or 20.81 by measure) of 
oxygen. It usually contains also a variable 
amount of moisture, a very small proportion 
of carbonic acid, a trace of ammonia, and 
sometimes of carbnretted hydrogen; these 
last are found incidentally in the air, in a 
variable degree. It is the standard in the 
comparative or specific gravity of gaseous 
bodies. {See No. 47.) At 60'^ Fahr., and 
with the oarometer at 30 inches, 100 cubic 
inches of air weigh 30.935 grains ; and v iter 
(the standard of specific gravity for fiuids) 
weighs just 816 times as much as air. 

4073. Tests for Pure Air. A simple 
method of ascertaining the presence of im- 
purity (carbonic acid) in the atmosphere, is to 
nearly fill a glass tumbler with limewater, and 
to place it in any convenient position, as on 
the mantelpiece of a room. The rapidity 
with which a pellicle forms on its surface, or 
the water becomes cloudy, corresponds to the 
amount of the carbonic acid present in the 
atmosphere that surrounds it. 

A little moist carbonate of lead put on a 
plate or saucer, and exposed in the same way, 
will turn black, should any sulphuretted hy- 
drogen be contained in the air. This is a very 
delicate test for that destructive gas 



Miscellaneo"as Chemi- 
Ca^ls. It is proposed, in this place, 
to give a concise description of the chemical 
compounds referred to in the various depart- 
ments of this book. A complete list of chem- 
icals would not be necessary for the scope of 
the work, which is a purely practical one; 
such information only is therefore given as is 
deemed necessary to render the whole thor- 
oughly intelligible, and as complete as possi- 
ble. A considerable number of them are in- 
serted, for the sake of clearness, in connec- 
tion with the process or special pui-pose for 
which their use is directed. These will be 
found in their proper place by reference to the 
Index. 

4075. Chloride of Gold. Gold unites 
with chlorine under two different proportions, 
and are distinguished asthejp7'o#oc7«Zoj-i<:?eand 
the ter chloride of gold. 

The terchloride of gold, or auric cliloride, 
consists of 3 equivalents of chlorine and 1 of 
gold, and is obtained by dissolving 1 part gold 
in 3 parts nitro-muriatic acid (aqua-regia) ; 
evaporate until vapors of chlorine begin to 
be disengaged, and then set the solution 
aside to crystallize. It forms orange-red 
crystalline needles, or ruby-red prismatic crys- 
tals; is deliquescent, and soluble in water, 
ether, and alcohol, forming a deep yellow solu- 
tion. (Cooley.) 

The protochloride of gold, or aurous chlor- 
^ide, consists of 1 equivalent each of chlorine 
and gold, and is obtained by evaporating the 
terchloride to dryness and exposing it to a 
heat of 450° (440° Fownes) Fahr., untH 
chlorine ceases to be evolved. It forms a 
yellowish- white mass, insoluble in water ; but 
it is decomposed by water, slowly when cold, 
and rapidly by the aid of heat, into metallic 
gold and terchloride of gold. {Cooley.) 



4076. Testa for the Presence of Gold 
in Solutions. Protosulphate of iron gives 
a brown precipitate, which acquires a metal- 
lic lustre when nibbed. 

Protochloride of tin (preferably containing 
a little perchloride) gives a violet, purple, or 
blackish precipitate, insoluble in muriatic 
acid. 

Sulphm-etted hydrogen and hydrosuli)huret 
of ammonia give a black precipitate, insoluble 
in simple acids. 

Ammonia gives a reddish-yellow precipitate 
(fulminating gold) with tolerably concentrated 
solutions, either at once, or on boiling the li- 
quid. 

Liquor of potassa gives, with neutral solu- 
tions of gold, a similar precipitate to that 
formed by ammonia, insoluble in excess. 

4077. Fused Nitrate of Silver. Take 
3 ounces refined silver, 2 fluid ounces nitric 
acid, and 5 fluid ounces distilled water ; mix 
in a glass flask and apply a gentle heat until 
the metal is dissolved. Transfer the solution 
to a porcelain capsule or crucible, decanting 
it off a heavy black powder which appears at 
the bottom of the flask ; evaporate the solu- 
tion to dryness ; raise the heat, in a dark room, 
until the mass liquefies, then pour it into 
hinged brass or iron moulds furnished with 
cylindrical cavities of the size of a goose-quill. 
Keep the product, which is Lunar Caustic, 
or fused nitrate of silver,^ in well stopped 
bottles, impervious to the light. 

Crystallized (or crystals of) Nitrate of Sil- 
ver is obtained by dissolving grain silver 
{see No. 3217) in nitric acid diluted with twice 
its weight of water ; evaporating the solu- 
tion until it will crystallize on cooling very 
slowly. {See No. 3216.) 

4078. Oxide of Silver. Dissolve 2 
parts nitrate of silver, and 1 part hydrate of 
potassa, each separately, in distilled water; 
mix the solution, and, after frequent agitation 
during an hour, collect and wash the precipi- 
tate, and dry it by a gentle heat in the shade. 
This is more strictly the protoxide of silver, 
and is in the form of a pale brown powder. 

4079. To Reduce Solid Silver from 
its Chloride. Mix together the dry chloride 
of silver in \ its weight of powdered black 
resin ; heat moderately in a crucible until the 
flame ceases to have a greenish blue color ; 
then increase the heat suddenly until the sil- 
ver fuses into a button at the bottom of the 
crucible. Some parties recommend an ad- 
dition of a little powdered calcined borax, 
sprinkled on the smface before increasing the 
heat. {SeeNo.'i2U.) 

4080. To Prepare Nitrate of Silver 
from an Alloy of Silver and Copper. 
Palm's method. When it is desired to pre- 
pare nitrate of silver from silver containing 
copper — coins for example — filter the nitric 
acid solution, dissolve the alloy in nitric acid, 
evaporate it nearly to the consistence of oil, 
not to dryness, and add to a part of this con- 
centrated metallic solution, f part of nitric 
acid free from chlorine. The silver salt pre- 
cipitates in the form of crystals and the cop- 
per remains in the solution. "Wash the pre- 
cipitate 2 or 3 times with concentrated nitric 
acid, and evaporate to dryness. The more 
concentrated the nitric acid, the more com- 
pletely is the silver salt precipitated ; an acid 



382 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS, 



of 1.250 specific gravity is sufficient, however, 
to separate completely the two metals. (See 
No. 3216.) 

4081. Sulphate of Silver. Prepared 
by dissolving silver in sulphuric acid contain- 
ing one-tenth of nitric acid ; or by precipita- 
ting a solution of the nitrate by another of 
sulphate of soda. It dissolves in 80 parts of 
hot water, and falls in small needles as the so- 
lution cools. ( Cooley). According to Fownes 
it dissolves in 88 parts boiling water. 

4082. Sulphuret of Silver. A greyish- 
black substance prepared by passing sulphu- 
retted hydrogen gas through a solution of ni- 
trate of"^ silver. It may also be obtained by 
malting sulphur and silver together. 

4083. Tests for Silver in Solution. 
Silver is entirely soluble ta diluted nitric 
acid. This solution, treated with an excess 
of muriate of soda, gives a white precipitate 
entirely soluble in ammonia water, and a fluid 
which is not affected by sulphuretted hydro- 
gen. The nitric solution of silver also gives 
a white curdy precipitate (chloride of silver) 
with muriatic acid, soluble in ammonia and 
insoluble in nitric acid, and blackened by ex- 
posure to light. It gives white precipitates 
with solutions of the alkaline carbonates, oxa- 
lates, and prussiates. It gives yellow preci- 
pitates with the alkaline arsenites and phos- 
phates. "With the arseniates, red precipitates. 
"With the fixed alkalies, brown precipitates. 
"With sulphuretted hydrogen, a black powder. 
With phosphorus and metallic copper or zinc, 
•I precipitate consisting of pure silver. 

4084. Chloride of Platinum. The 
commercial chloride of platinum is the hi- 
cliloride, formed by dissolving platinum in 
nitro-muriatic acid (aqua-regia), and evapo- 
rating the solution to dryness at a gentle heat. 
It is reddish-brown, deliquescent, and very 
soluble in water and in alcohol, yielding 
orange-colored solutions. {Cooley.) {See No. 
3220.) 

4085. Protochloride of Platinum. 
This is formed by exposing the dried and pow- 
dered bichloride {see No. 4084) for some time 
to a temperature of 450° Fahr. It is a green- 
ish-grey, powder, insoluble in water, but sol- 
uble in muriatic acid. 

4086. Ammonio-Chloride of Plati- 
num. A solution of sal-ammoniac is added 
to a strong solution of bichloride of platinum 
{see No 4084), avoiding excess; the precipitate 
is collected on a filter, washed with a little 
weak alcohol, and dried at a heat not exceed- 
ing 180° Fahr. It consists of minute, trans- 
parent, yellow crystals, very feebly soluble 
in water, less so in dilute alcohol, and in- 
soluble in acids. By heating to redness, it is 
converted into spongy platinum. {See No. 
3333. ) 

4087. Tests for Solutions of Plati- 
num. Sulphuretted hydi'ogen throws down 
from neutral and acid solutions of platinum, 
a blackish-brown precipitate, which is only 
formed after a time in the cold, but imme- 
diately on heating the liquid. Sal-ammoniac 
and chloride of potassium give yellow crys- 
talline precipitates, insoluble in acids, but 
soluble in excess of the precipitant, upon the 
application of heat, and decomposable by heat, 
with production of spongy platinum. Am- 
monia and potassa also give similar precipi- 



tates m solutions previously acidulated with 
hydrochloric acid. {Cooleij). 

4088. Subacetate of Copper. A green 
or bluish-green powder, better laiown as ver- 
digris. This may be made by spreading the 
marc of grapes, or pieces of cloth dipped in 
cnide acetic acid, upon plates of copper, 
with exposure to the air for several weeks, 
{Fownes.) 

4089. Biuacetate of Copper. Yerdi- 
gris, dissolved in vinegar with the aid of heat, 
forms dark green or blue crystals of binacetate 
of copper. This is the commercial acetate oi 
copper. 

4090. Ammonio-Sulphate of Copper. 
A dark blue pulverulent substance, formed by 
rubbing together 1 ounce sulphate of coppper 
and 2 ounce sesquicarbonate of ammcmia, 
until carbonic acid ceases to be evolved ; then 
drying the product, wrapped in bibulous paper, 
in the air. 

4091. Nitrate of Copper. This con- 
sists of deep blue, very deliquescent crystals, 
obtained by dissolving pure copper in dilute 
nitric acid. {See No. 97.) 

4092. Protoxide of Copper— also 
known as hlach oxide of coxjper — may be 
formed by calcining metallic copper, nitrate 
of copper, or the hydrate, thrown down from 
solutions of the salts of copper by means of 
pure potassa. This preparation was formerly 
caUed the deutoxide of copper. It is not 
changed by heat, but readily gives out its 
oxygen when heated with combustible mat- 
ter ; hence its general use in orgajdc analysis 
for supplying oxygen. It communicates a 
beautiful green color to glass and enamels. 

4093. Sulphite of Copper. To a con- 
centrated solution of bisulphite of potash add 
a cold solution of sulphate of copper, filter, 
and heat gently. 

4094. Suboxide of Copper. This is 
the red oxide of cop)per, obtamed by heating 
together in a covered crucible 4 parts copper 
filings, and 5 parts black oxide of copper. 
{See No. 4092.) Or: Mix 100 parts sulphate 
of copper with 57 parts carbonate of soda, 
(both in crystals), and fuse them at a gentle 
heat; cool, pulverize, add 25 parts fine copper 
filings, ram the mixture into a crucible,- cover 
it over, and expose it for 20 minutes to a white 
heat. It consists of a superb red powder 
with a metallic lustre. It is used as a pig- 
ment and a bronze, and as a stain for glass 
and enamel, to which it gives a rich red color. 
Heat converts it into the black oxide. "With 
ammonia it forms a colorless solution, which 
rapidly becomes blue from the action of the 
air. {Cooley.) 

4095. Peroxide of Copper. An oxide 
formed by the action cf peroxide of hydrogen 
water on the hydrated black oxide. 

4096. Sulphate of Copper. The Uue 
vitriol of commerce is obtained from the na- 
tive sulphuret of copper (copper pyrites). 
Pure sulphate of copper is made by the direct 
solution of the metal, or preferably, of its 
oxide or carbonate, in sulphuric acid. It con- 
sists of fine blue crystals, sHghtly efflorescent 
in the air. By heat it loses its water of crys» 
taUization and crumfbles into a white powder. 
{See No. 120.) 

4097. Chloride of Copper. Dissolve 
black oxide of copper in muriatic acid ; evap- 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS 



3B3 



->rate and crystallize. It forms green, deli- 
>juescent crystals, soluble in alcohol, the flame 
Df which it turns green ; exposed to a heat 
ander 400° Fahr. it becomes anhydrous, as- 
suming the form of a yellow powder. 

4098. Ferrocyanide of Copper. Call- 
ed also Prussiate of Copjjer. i'recipitate a 
solution of a salt of copper (sulphate of cop- 
per, for instance,) with another of yellow 
prussiate of potash ; collect the powder, wash 
it with water, and diy. Has a beautiful red- 
dish-brown color, and is sometimes used as a 
pigment. 

4099. Tests for Copper Solutions. The 
solutions of copper possess a blue or green 
color, which they retain, even when considera- 
bly diluted with water. 

"With caustic potassa they give a light blue 
bulky precipitate, turning blackish-brown or 
black on boiling the liquid. 

Ammonia and carbonate of ammonia pro- 
duce a bluish-white precipitate, soluble in 
excess of ammonia, yielding a rich deep blue 
solution. 

The carbonates of potassa give a similar 
precipitate to the last, but insoluble in excess 
of the precipitate. 

Ferrocyanide of potassium gives a reddish- 
brown precipitate. Sulphuretted hydrogen 
and hydrosulphm-et of ammonia give a black- 
ish-brown or black one. I 

A polished rod of iron, on inmersion in an l 
acidulated solution, quickly becomes coated | 
with metallic copper. 

4100. Delicate Test for Iron and 
Copper. The alcohol tincture of logwood 
will produce a blue or bluish-black tint in 
water which has been run through iron or 
copper pipes, when neither tincture of galls, 
sulphocyanide, nor the ferrid and ferrocyan- 
ides of potassium show any reaction. 

4101. Acetate of Lead. Acetate of 
lead should be completely soluble in distilled 
water, and when the lead is exactly precipi- 
tated with dilute sulphuric acid, or by sulphu- 
retted hydrogen, the clear supernatant liquid 
should be wholly volatilized by heat without 
residue. Sulphuric acid poured on acetate of 
lead evolves acetic vapors. Acetate of lead 
is powerfully astringent. Take 4 pounds 2 
ounces oxide of lead (litharge), acetic acid 
(specific gravity 1.048), anddistiUed water, of 
each 4 pints ; mix the fluids, add the oxide, 
dissolved by a gentle heat, strain, evaporate, 
and crystallize. On the large scale it is usu- 
ally prepared by gradually sprinlding oxide of 
lead into strong vinegar, heated in a copper 
boiler rendered negative-electric by having a 
large flat piece of leat soldered within it, con- 
stant stirring being employed until the acid is 
saturated, when the mother liquors of a 
former process maj" be added, the whole 
heated to the boiling point, allowed to settle 
till cold, decanted, evaporated to about the 
specific gravity 1.233 or 1.2G7, and then run 
into salt-glazed stoneware vessels to crystal- 
lize. The best proportions are, finely pow- 
dered litharg3 13 parts, and acetic acid speci- 
fic gi-avity 1.0482 to 1.0484, 23 parts. These 
ingredients should produce about 38 i parts of 
crystallized sugar of lead. A very slight ex- 
cess of acid should be preserved in the liquid 
during the boiling and crystallization, to pre- 
vent the formation of any basic acetate, 



which would impede the formation of regular 
crystals. 

4102. Chloride of Lead. This is a 
white crystalline powder, called also muriate 
of lead. Precipitate a solution of 19 ounces 
acetate of lead in 3 pints boiling distilled 
water, with a solution of 6 ounces chloride of 
sodium in 1 pint boiling water ; when cold, 
wash and dry the precipitate. It may be ob- 
tained in brilliant colorless needle-shaped crys- 
tals, by dissolving finely powdered litharge 
in boiling dilute hydrochloric acid. Filter 
while hot, and the crystals form on coolmg. 

4103. Iodide of Lead. Acetate of lead, 
9 ounces; water, 6 pints; dissolve; iodide of 
potassium (pure), 7 ounces ; water, 2 pint3 ; dis- 
solve. Add the latter solution to the former, 
wash and dry the precipitate, and keep it from 
the light. Or : Iodide of potassium and ni- 
tate of lead, of each 1 ounce ; dissolve each 
separately in f pint of water, mix, collect the 
precipitate in a muslin or linen filter, and wash 
it with water ; then boil it in 3 gallons water, 
som-edwith pyroligneous (acetic) acid, 3 fluid 
ounces; let the solution settle (still keeping 
the liquid near the boiling point), and decant 
the clear ; as the water cools, the iodide will 
subside in briUiant golden yellow lameUse, or 
minute crystals. 

The latter is the best process, as any ad- 
hering oxide of lead is dissolved out by the 
acid. (Cooley). 

4104. Chromate of Lead. To a fil- 
tered solution of acetate or nitrate cf lead, 
add a filtered solution of chromate cf potassa, 
as long as a precipitate forms, which is col- 
lected, washed with water, and dried. This 
forms clirome-yellow . (See JVb. 2705.) 

4105. Dichromate of Lead. Boilpme 
carbonate of lead with chromate of potassa in 
excess, until it assumes a proper red color; 
then wash it with pure water, and dry it in 
the shade. This is the pigment known as 
chrome-red. (See Ko. 270o.) 

4106. Litharge. Litharge is an oxide 
of lead prepared by scraping off the dross that 
forms on the surface of melted lead exposed 
to a current of air (dross of lead), and heating 
it to a full red, to melt out any undecomposed 
metal. The fused oxide in cooling forms a 
yellow or reddish semi-crystalline mass, which 
readily separates into scales; these, when 
ground, constitute the powdered litharge of 
commerce. Litharge is also prepared by ex- 
posing red lead to a heat sufiaciently high to 
fuse it, and EngliGh Litharge is obtained as a 
secondary product by liquefaction, from ar- 
gentiferous lead ore. The litharge cf com- 
merce is diotinguiGhed by its color into litJi- 
arge of gold, which is dark colored and im- 
pure, and litharge of silver, which is purer, 
and paler colored. The dark color cf the for- 
mer is chiefly owing to the presence cf red 
lead. In grinding litharge, about 1 pound of 
olive oil is usually added to each 1 cwt., to 
prevent dust. Litharge is employed in phar- 
macy, to make plasters and several other 
preparations of lead ; by painters as a dryer 
for oils, and for various other purposes in the 
arts. 

4107. Nitrate of Lead. Litharge, 4^ 
ounces; diluted nitric acid, 1 pint; dissolve 
by a gentle heat, and set the solution aside to 
crystallize. Employed as external application 



384. 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



in cutaneous affections, &c. A very weak so- 
lution is an excellent remedy for chapped 
hands, &c. 

4108. Tests for the Presence of Lead 
in its Solutions. The presence of lead in 
solutions may be recognized by the effects 
produced by the foUowing reagents : 

The addition of sulphm-etted hydrogen, 
hydrosulphnret of ammonia, or the alkaline 
sulphm-ets, to a solution containing lead, give 
black precipitates, insoluble in cold dilute 
acids, alkalies, alkalme sulphurets, and cyanide 
of potassium. 

Caustic potassa or soda gives a white pre- 
ripitate, soluble in excess of the precipitant. 

Ammonia throws down a white precipitate, 
insoluble in excess, from all the solutions of 
lead salts, except that of the acetate. 

Dilute sulphuric bcid, in excess, also solu- 
tions of the sulphates, give a white precipitate, 
insoluble in dilute nitric acid, but soluble in a 
solution of potass^,. 

Chromate of potassa gives a yellow precip- 
itate, whose soluble qualities are the same as 
that from sulphuric acid last mentioned. 

Iodide of potassium gives a yellow precipi- 
tate, soluble in acetic acid, a solution of po- 
tassa, alcohol, and boiling water ; from boiling 
Water it is deposited in small, brilliant, gold- 
en-yellow scales, as the liquid cools. {See 
alsoHos. 2694, (fee.) 

4109. To Prepare Chloride of Zinc. 
Dilute 1 piat hydrochloric acid with 1 quart 
water, add to it 7 ounces zinc in small pieces ; 
when the effervescence is nearly finished, ap- 
ply heat until bubbles cease to be evolved ; 
decant the clear and evaporate to dryness. 
Fuse the product in a lightly covered crucible, 
by a red heat ; pour it out on a flat, smooth 
stone, and, when cold, break it into small 
pieces, and preserve it in a well-stoppered 
bottle. 

4110. Ammonio-Chloride of Zinc. 
By dissolving 68 parts chloride of zinc and 
54 parts sal-ammoniac, a crystaUizable salt 
is formed, which dissolves oxides of copper 
and of iron, and is useful in tinning or zincing 
those metals. 

4111. Chloride of Zinc. Dissolve 2^ 
troy ounces zinc in small pieces, ia sufficient 
mmiatic acid; strain the solution, add 60 
grains nitric acid, and evaporate to dryness. 
Dissolve the mass in 5 fluid ounces water, add 
60 grains chaLl, and let the mixture stand for 
24 hours ; then filter, and evaporate to dry- 
ness. Lastly, fuse the dry macs, pour it out 
on a flat stone, and, when it has congealed, 
break the mass in pieces and keep in a well- 
stoppered bottle. {U. S. Disj).) 

4112. Precipitated Carbonate of Zinc. 
Take 12 troy ounces each sulphate of zinc 
and carbonate of soda ; dissolve each separate- 
ly in 4 pints water ; mix the solutions and let 
the powder subside ; pour off the liquid, wash 
the precipitate with hot water until the wash- 
ings are nearly tasteless, and dry with a gen- 
tle heat. (U. S. Ph.) 

4113. Tutty Powder. Impm-e oxide 
of zinc. It is a substance which collects in 
the chimneys of the furnaces in which the 
ores of zinc are smelted. 

4114. To Prepare Pure Sulphate of 
Zinc. Mix 4 ounces lanunated or granulated 
zinc with 3 fluid ounces oil of vitriol, and 1 



pint water, m a porcelain capsule, and whe? 
gas ceases to be evolved, boil for 10 minutes, 
filter through muslin, and evaporate to diy- 
ness ; next dissolve it in 1 pint water, agitate 
this solution frequently during 6 hours with i 
ounce prepared chalk, and filter it; add to 
the filtered solution 1 fluid drachm each com- 
mercial nitric acid and dilute sulphuric acid ; 
evaporate the mixture until a pellicle forms 
on the sm-face, and set it aside to crystallize ; 
dry the crystals on bibulous paper without 
heat, and preserve them in a bottle. The 
mother liquor wiH yield more crystals by 
further evaporation. This substance is als 
known as white vitriol. 

4115. Cyanide of Zinc. Add a solution 
of cyanide of potassium to a solution of pure 
sulphate of zinc; wash and dry the precip- 
itate. 

4116. Plowers of Zinc. This is ob- 
tained by the rapid combustion of zinc in a 
deep crucible, placed sideways in a furnace, 
so that the flowers (oxide of zinc) may be col- 
lected as they form. 

4117. Oxide of Zinc. Place carbonate 
of zinc in a covered clay crucible, and expose 
to a very low red heat, until a portion taken 
from the centre of the mass ceases to effer- 
vesce on being dropped iato dilute sulphuric 
acid. This is the commercial zinc-white. 
(See No. 2696.) 

4118. Tests for the Solutions of Zinc. 
The solutions of zinc are precipitated white by 
the pure alkalies and carbonate of ammonia, 
but are completely redissolved by excess of 
the precipitant. The carbouates of potassa 
and soda give a permanent white precipitate 
of carbonate of zinc. Hydrosulphnret of 
ammonia also gives a white precipitate, and 
so does sulphuretted hydrogen when the solu- 
tion is quite neutral. Prussiate of potash 
gives a gelatinous white, or bluish- white pre- 
cipitcite. 

4119. Protoxide of Tin. Usually 
termed oxide of tin. Precipitate a solution 
of protochloride of tin with carbonate of po- 
tassa, wash and dry the powder at a heat 
under IGG^ Fahr., with as little exposure to 
the air as possible. It is a white or greyish' 
white powder, soluble in acids aud in the 
pure fixed alkalies. If it be heated in an atmo- 
sphere of carbonic acid it loses its water and 
changes to a dense black po^rder, which is 
anhydrous protoxide. (Cooley.) 

4120. Sesquioxide of Tin. A grey, 
slimy precipitate, soluble in muriatic acid, 
and in ammonia, obtained by mixiug fresh, 
moist hydrated peroxide of iron with a solu- 
tion of the neutral protochloride of tin. 
(Fuchs). 

4121. Binoxide or Peroxide of Tin. 
Obtained by adding potassa, or an alkaline 
carbonate, to a solution of perchloride of tin. 
This substance is also known as Stannic acid; 
hence, its compounds with alkalies are some- 
times called STAifjfATES. It is soluble in acids, 
and in pure alkalies. If grain tin be heated 
in a test tube with nitric acid, the tin is con- 
verted, with evolution of yellow fumes, into a 
white powder, peroxide of tin. The nitric 
acid will convert the tin into an oxide, but it 
cannot combine with the oxide produced. 
(StocJchardt.) From this it appears that 
nitrate of tin is a misnomer. 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



385 



4122. Tin or Polishers' Putty. Melt 
tin wiin rather more thau an equal quantity 
of leaa, then rapidly raise the heat till the 
mixture is red hot; the tin "^11 then be 
thrown off in dross, which should be removed 
as it forms. This dross is th.Q jyeroxide of t'n, 
or tin putty ; the dross may be calcined until 
it becomes whitish, and then reduced to 
powder. 

4123. Protochloride of Tin. Muriate 
of tin is obtained by distilling a mixture of 
chloride of mercury and tin in fine powder. 
It is grey, solid, resin-like, fusible, and volatile. 
{Cooleii.) 

4124. Perchloride of Tin. Called also 
Bichloride and Pcrmuriatc of Tin. The pure 
bichloride is obtained by heating the proto- 
chloride in chlorine gas, or by distilling a 
mixture of 8 parts of grain tin with 24 parts 
of corrosive sublimate, when a very volatile, 
colorless liquid comes over, which was form- 
erly called Libavius' fuming liquor. A solu- 
tion of the bichloride or permuriate of tin is 
obtained by dissolving tin in nitromuriatic 
acid. This solution is much used by dyers, 
under the name of Spirits of Tin, Dyers' 
Spirits, cfec. {See Nos. 107, tfc.) For this 
purpose, the acid is best made by mixing 2 
parts of muriatic acid with 1 part each of 
nitric acid and water, all by measure. {Lie- 
big). The tin should be added by degrees, 
one portion being allowed to dissolve before 
adding another; "as, without this precaution, 
the action is apt to become violent, the tem- 
perature rise, and peroxide of tin to be depos- 
ited. {See JSi'o. 108.) A process which has 
been highly recommended, is to prepare a 
simple solution of the protochloride, and to 
convert it into the bichloride, either by the 
addition of nitric acid and a gentle heat, or 
by passing chlorine through it. 

4125. Tests for the Salts of Tin. 
The salts of tin are characterized by the fol- 
lowing general properties: Ferroprussiate of 
potash gives a white precipitate. Hydrosul- 
phuret of potash, a brown-black with the 
protoxide, and a golden-yellow with the per- 
oxide. Galls do not affect the solutions of 
these salts. Corrosive sublimate occasions a 
black precipitate with the protoxide salts ; a 
white with the peroxide. A plate of lead 
frequently throws down metallic tin, or its 
oxide, from the saline solutions. Chloride of 
gold gives, with the protoxide solutions, the 
purple precipitate of Cassius. Chloride of 
platinum occasions an orange precipitate with 
the protoxide salts. {Cooley.) 

.4126. Ethiops of Antimony. Trit- 
urate together 3 parts sulphuret of antimony, 
and 2 parts black sulphuret of mercury. 

4127. Flowers of Antimony. Thi-ow 
powdered sulphuret of antimony, by spoon- 
fuls, into an ignited tubulated retort that has 
a short and very wide neck, until as many 
flowers collect in the receiver as are required. 

The argentine flowers are thus prepared: 
Keep metallic antimony melted in a vessel, 
freely exposed to the air, and furnished with 
a cool place for the flowers to rest upon ; col- 
lect the flowers as deposited. According to 
Berzelius, these are sesquioxide of mercury. 

4128. Liver of Antimony. Melt 
•.,ogether 1 part sulphuret of antimony, 
and 2 parts dry carbonate of soda (or 



potash), and heat until it acquires a proper 
color; then cool and powder it. Crocus of 
antimony is sometimes sold for tlie above, but 
the latter is prepared by deflagrating equal 
parts of antimony and saltpetre (nitrate of 
potassa), a small portion at a time, and the 
fused mass, separated from the dross, reduced 
to fine powder. ( Cooley. ) 

4129. Potassio-Tartrate of Anti- 
mony. Commercial Tartar Emetic. Take 2 
troy ounces oxide of antimony, and 2$ troy 
ounces bitartrate of potassa, both in very fine 
powder; mix them together, and add them 
to 18 fluid ounces boiling distilled water in a 
glass vessel. Boil for I'hour, filter while hot, 
and set aside to crystallize. Dry the crystals, 
and keep in a well-stoppered bottle. By 
further evaporation the mother-water will 
yield more crystals, which should be purified 
by a second crystallization. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4130. Oxide of Antimony. Insert 4 
troy ounces sulphuret of antimony in very 
fine powder into a quart flask ; add 18 troy 
ounces muriatic acid, and digest in a sand- 
bath until effervescence ceases. Then remove 
the bath and add 600 grains nitric acid, and 
when nitrous fumes cease to be given off, and 
the liquid has grown cold, add it to | pint 
water, and filter. Pom- the filtrate gradually 
into 12 pints water, constantly stimng, and 
wash the precipitate twice by decantation, 
usiag each time spuits water; drain it through 
mushn, and then wash it with water until the 
washings cease to have an acid reaction. 
Add I5 fluid ounces water of ammonia, and, 
after standing 2 hours, filter through wet 
muslin, and wash with distflled water as long 
as the washings form a precipitate with nitrate 
of silver. Then dry with a gentle heat on 
bibulous paper. {U. S. Ph.) A greyish- 
white powder, insoluble in water, soluble in 
muriatic and tartaric acids. 

4131. Butter of Antimony. The H- 
quid chloride of antimony, commercially 
known by this name, is usually made by dis- 
solving crude or roasted black antimony in 
muriatic acid with the addition of a little 
nitric acid. It usually contains pemitrate of 
iron. 

4132. Sulphuret of Antimony. The 
black sulphuret {tersulphuret) of antimony is 
prepared from commercial sulphuret of anti- 
mony or by elutriation, in the same manner 
as directed for prepared chalk. {See No. 1292.) 
The commercial sidphuret is obtained from 
the native gray antimony ore by fusion ; this 
separates the sulphuret from the less fusible 
earthy matter; it is then run into cakes. 
{Cooley.) 

Mixtures of an acidulated menstruum or sy- 
rup with a sulphm-et of antimony, are apt to 
disengage sulphuretted hydrogen, when there 
is much of them, if kept iu a warm room. 
The rule should be to prepare as small a 
quantity as possible, and to keep the bottle 
cool. {Eymael.) 

4133. Penta-Sulphiiret of Antimony . 
Called also golden sulphuret of antimony. 
Boil together for some hours 72 parts tersul- 
phuret of antimony, 68 parts dry carbonate of 
soda, 52 parts fresh hydrate of lime, and 13 
parts sulphur ; filter, evaporate, and crystal- 
lize. Eedissolve the crystals {Schlippe's salt), 
add dilute sulphuric acid, coUect the golden 



386 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS, 



flocnlent precipitate, wash, it with, cold dis- 
tilled water, and dry with a gentle heat. 
{LieUg.) 

4134. Nitrate of Bismuth. The neu- 
tral nitrate is made from 2 ounces pure bis- 
muth broken into fragments, dissolved by 
heat in 6 ounces nitric acid, adding more acid, 
if necessary, to effect entire solution. Add to 
the solution half its volume of distilled water, 
jGdter through powdered glass, and crystallize 
by evaporation. ( Cooley. ) 

4135. Subnitrate of Bismuth. This 
»>s also called trisnitrate of tismutli, magistery 
of 'bismuth, and pearl white. It is insoluble in 
water, but freely soluble in nitric acid. Dis- 
solve 2 ounces bismuth in 3 fluid ounces ni- 
tric acid, previously diluted with 2 fluid oun- 
ces distilled water; then add 3 quarts cold 
water, and allow the white precipitate to sub- 
side. Afterwards decant the clear liquor, 
wash the powder, and dry it by a gentle heat. 
{Br. Ph.^ 

4136. Oxide of Bismuth. The anhy- 
drous oxide is made by exposing the nitrate 
or subnitrate to gentle ignition in a crucible. 
This is a straw-yellow colored powder. The 
hydrated oxide is a rich-looking white pow- 
der, obtained thus : Dissolve 2 pounds bis- 
muth in 21 pounds nitric acid, and drop it 
gradually into a solution of 3 pounds carbon- 
ate of potassa in twice it weight of water, 
rendered caustic by previous treatment with 
quicklime (see No. 101); wash the precipitate 
well with cold water. 

4137. Tests for the Salts of Bismuth. 
Tin, copper, iron, and zinc throw down bis- 
muth from its solutions in the metallic state. 
If a salt of bismuth be heated with carbonate 
of soda by the flame of a blowpipe, a bead of 
the metal, surrounded by a crust of yellow 
oxide, is obtained. The brittleness of the 
bead under the hammer distinguishes it from 
lead. The salts of bismuth are mostly devoid 
of color ; some are soluble, others insoluble. 
The soluble salts redden htmus paper ; and, 
when the solution contains but little free acid, 
and is largely diluted with water, a subsalt, 
more or less soluble, is deposited. This pro- 
perty of forming subsalts is very characteristic. 
{MaTcins. ) 

4138. Chloride of Mercury. This 
preparation is usually known as calomel. 
Boil, by means of a sand-bath, 24 troy ounces 
mercury with 36 troy ounces sulphuric acid, 
until a dry white mass is left. Eub this, 
when cold, with 24 ounces mercury in an 
earthenware mortar until thoroughly mixed ; 
add 18 troy ounces chloride of sodium, tritu- 
rate until the globules of mercury cease to 
appear, and sublime the mixture. Eeduce 
the sublimate to a very fine powder and wash 
it with boiling distiUed water until the wash- 
ings afi'ord no precipitate with water of am- 
monia, and dry it. ( TJ. S. Ph. ) 

4139. Bichloride of Mercury. The 
corrosive sublimate of the drug stores. Boil 
24 troy ounces mercury in 33 troy ounces sul- 
phuric acid, by means of a sand-bath. When 
cold, rub the dry white mass with 18 troy 
ounces chloride of sodium in an earthenware 
mortar; then sublime with a gentle heat. 
( U. S. Ph.) 

4140. White Precipitate. This is the 
ammonio-cMoride of mercury, and is prepared 



by dissolving, with heat, 6 ounces bichloride 
of mercmy (corrosive sublimate) in 3 quarts 
distilled water; when cool, add 8 fluid oun- 
ces liquor of ammonia, frequently shaking it. 
Wash the precipitate with water, and dry it. 
It is used to make an ointment for skin dis" 
eases ; also to destroy small vermin. 

4141. Red Precipitate. Bed oxide or 
binoxide of mercury is now used in medicine 
as an escharotic, also to induce salivation. 
Dissolve 4 ounces bichloride of mercury in 
6 pints water ; add 28 fluid ounces liquor of 
potassa; wash the precipitate in distiQed 
water, and dry by a gentle heat. 

4142. Chloride of Mercury and Am- 
monia. This is obtained by triturating to- 
gether equal parts of bichloride of mercury 
and sal-ammoniac. This addition of sal-am- 
moniac renders the corrosive sublimate more 
soluble in water, for use in lotions and injec- 
tions. 

4143. Black Precipitate. Protoxide 
of mercury is obtained by agitating together 
1 ounce calomel with 1 gallon lime-water ; de- 
canting the clear liquid after subsidence, and 
washing the sediment with distilled water, 
after which it is dried on bibulous paper. 

4144. Protonitrate of Mercury. Mix 
together in a wide-bottomed glass vessel, 
equal parts of quicksilver and nitric acid 
(specific gravity 1.32); after digestion for 24 
hours in a cool place, remove the crystals that 
have formed, wash them with a little nitric 
acid, drain them, and keep from the air in a 
stoppered bottle. {Paris Codex. ) 

4145. Tests for the Salts of Mercury. 
The salts of mercury are all volatilized at a 
dull red heat — give a white precipitate with 
prussiate of potash, a black one with sul- 
phuretted hydrogen and hydrosulphurets, an 
orange-yellow one with gallic acid, and with 
a plate of polished copper, a white coat of 
metallic mercury. 

Solutions of the protosalts of mercury yield 
a grey or black precipitate with alkalies, a 
yellowish or greenish-yellow one with iodide 
of potassium, a white one with muriate of 
soda. 

Solutions of the persalts of mercury yield 
with caustic alkalies, yellowish or red preci- 
pitates; with alkaline carbonates, a brick-red 
one ; with iodide of potassium, a scarlet one. 

4146. Sulphate of Iron. Commercial 
sulphate of iron is known also as Copperas, 
Green Vitriol, Shoemakers' BlacJc, &c. For 
medicinal purposes it requires some prepara- 
tion: Mix 1 fluid ounce sulphuric acid with 
4 pints water ; add 4 pounds commercial sul- 
phate of iron, and 1 ounce iron wire ; digest 
with heat and occasional agitation until the 
sulphate is dissolved ; strain while hot, and 
set aside so that crystals may form ; evaporate 
the mother-liquor for more crystals, and dry* 
the whole. {Cooley.) 

4147. Sulphuret of Iron. Mix to- 
gether 4 parts sublimed sulphur, and 7 parts 
iron filings. Heat in a crucible in a common 
fire till the mixture begins to glow ; then re- 
move the crucible from the fire, and cover it 
up until the reaction is at an end and the 
whole has become cold. 

4148. Bisulphuret of Iron. This is 
found in large quantities in mineral form, and 
is known as Iron, pyrites. It may also be ob- 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



887 



tained by projecting a mixtui-e of 5 parts sul- 
phur, and 4 parts iron filings, into a red-hot 
crucible, excluding the air as much as possi- 
ble. It melts easily, and takes sharp casts, 
and may be colored red with vermilion. 

4149. Hydrated Protosulphuret of 
Iron. This is a black, insoluble substance, 
rapidly decomposed by exposure to the air. A 
neutral solution of protosulphate of iron made 
with recently boiled or distilled water, is pre- 
cipitated by adding a solution of hydrosul- 
phuret of ammonia, or of sulphuret of potas- 
sium. Collect the precipitate on a filter, 
wash it as quickly as possible with recently 
boiled water, squeeze in a linen cloth, and 
preserve in its pasty state under water. 

This preparation of iron is proposed by 
Mialhe as an antidote to the salts of arsenic, 
antimony, bismuth, lead, mercury, (fcc, and 
to arsenious acid, more especially to white 
arsenic and corrosive sublimate. On contact 
with the latter substance it is instantly con- 
verted into protochloride of iron and sul- 
phuret of mercury, two comparatively inert 
substances. 

4150. Hydrated Persulphuret of 
Iron. Prepared by adding, very gradually, 
a diluted solution of sulphuret of potassium, or 
of hydrosulphuret of ammonia, to a neutral 
solution of persulphate of iron, collecting, &c., 
the precipitate, in the same way as in hydra- 
ted protosulphuret of iron. Bouchardat and 
Sandras recommend this persulphuret as a 
substitute for the protosulphuret, to which, 
they say, it i ^ preferable. 

4151. Protoxide of Iron. Dry protox- 
ide of iron is a black powder ; in its hydi-ated 
state it is white, and when exposed to the air 
rapidly absorbs oxygen, assuming first a grey- 
ish-green color, and then a brownish-red, 
which i.3 much brightened by exposure to a 
red heat, at the same time that its solubility 
in acids i 3 considerably lessened. The salts of 
nrotoxide of iron have a greenish color, but 
yield nearly colorless solutions, except when 
concentrated. The white hydrate i:3 precipi- 
tated from solutions of the protosalts of iron 
by th3 pm-e alkalies. {Cooley.) 

41 52. Tests for Solutions of the Salts 
of Protoxide of Iron. TvTien acidulated 
they are not precipitated by sulphuretted hy- 
drog3n; even neutral solutions with weak 
acids are incompletely precipitated; whilst 
alkaline solutions are precipitated of a black 
color. 

ISTeutral solutions are precipitated black by 
hydro sulphuret of ammonia. 

Ammonia and potassa give a greenish- white 
precipitate, gradually becoming green, and 
then brown in the air. The presence of ammo- 
niacal salt? interferes with these tests. 

Ferrocy anide of potassium (yeUow prussiate 
of potash) gives a nearly white precipitate, 
becoming gradually blue in the air, and im- 
mediately so on the addition of a little weak 
nitric acid or chlorine water. 

Ferridcy anide of potassium (red prussiate 
of potash, produces a rich deep blue precipi- 
tate, insoluble in muriatic acid. In highly 
dilute solutions the effect is only a deep blu- 
ish-green coloration. 

Aurochloride of sodium gives a purple pre- 
cipitate ; and phosphate of soda a blue one. 

Cochineal freed from fat by ether, and then 



digested in water (or very weak spirit ),give«i 
a solution which is colored violet by the pro- 
tosalts of iron. 

4153. Anhydrous Sosquioxide ot 
Iron. A pure auhydi-ous sesquioxide is ob- 
tained by precipitating a solution of sesqm- 
sulphate or sesquichloride of iron with am- 
monia in excess, and washing, drying, and 
igniting the resulting hydrated peroxide. 

4154. Jewelers' Rouge. The best 
jewelers' rouge is prepared by calcining the 
precipitated peroxide of iron {see No. 4153) 
until it becomes scarlet. The rust of hon 
contains some combined water, and is more 
soluble than the oxide prepared by calcina- 
tion; but it is less soluble than that recently 
precipitated from its solution in an acid. Thi s 
is also called Colcoihar, Crocus, or Crocus 
Martis. 

4155. Hydrated Sesquioxide of Iron. 
Take 4 ounces sulphate of iron; 85 fluid oun- 
ces oil cf vitriol ; water, 1 quart ; mix, dis- 
solve, and boil, then gradually add 9 fluid 
drachms nitric acid; stming well and boil- 
ing for a minute or two after each addition, 
until the liquor yields a yellowish-brown pre- 
cipitate with ammonia, when it must be fil- 
tered and precipitated with 3-|- ounces strong 
hquor of ammonia, rapidly added and well 
mixed in; collect, wash well with water, 
drain on a cahco filter, and dry at a heat not 
exceeding 180° Fahr. IVhen intended as an 
antidote for arsenic it should not be dried, but 
kept in the moist or gelatinous state. It 
should be kept in a well-stoppered bottle filled 
with recently distilled or boiled water. This 
preparation is also caUed hydrated peroxide of 
iron. 

4156. Peroxide of Iron. Peroxide, or 
sesquioxide cf iron, is a brownish-red powder, 
known as the red oxide or rust of iron ; in its 
hydrated form it is very soluble in acids, but 
less so when anhydrous. The salts of perox- 
ide of iron have for the most part a reddish- 
yellow color, and redden blue litmus paper. 
{Cooley.) 

4157. Tests for the Solutions of the 
Salts of Peroxide of Iron. Sulphuretted 
hydrogen throws down a black precipitate 
from alkahne solutions. 

Hydro sulphuret of ammonia does the same 
with neutral solutions; in very dilute solu- 
tions the precipitate is blackish-green; the 
precipitate in both cases being soluble in 
muriatic and acetic acids. 

Ammonia and potassa produce bulky red- 
dish-brown precipitates insoluble in excess of 
the precipitant. 

Ferrocyanide of potassium (yeUow prussiate 
of potash) gives a rich blue precipitate, iu- 
soluble in muriatic acid, and readily decom- 
posed by potassa. 

Ferridcyanide of potassium (red prussiate 
of potash) deepens the color, but does not 
give a blue precipitate, as it does with the 
protoxide. {See Xo. A\.^2.) 

Sulphocyanide of potassium gives an iu- 
tense ruby-red color to neutral or acid solu- 
tions ; this is the most sensitive test known. 

Meconic acid and the meconiates also give a 
red color. 

A tincture or infusion of gaUs strikes a 
black color; and phosphate of soda throws 
down a white precipitate. 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS, 



4158. To Obtain Pure Oxalate of 
Iron. Yogel recommends the precipitation 
of a solution of an ordinarj proto sulphate of 
iron by oxalic acid. The filtered solutions 
exclude all insoluble matter, and the precipi- 
tated oxalate needs but sufficient "washing and 
drying to obtain the oxalate of iron in a state 
of "^ purity and of constant composition. This 
salt gently heated, with exposure to the air, 
takes fire, or may be kindled, and then con- 
tinues to bum until the "whole becomes con- 
verted into impalpable peroxide of iron. This 
cheap, rapid, and perfect method of obtaining 
a perfect oxide of iron, free from all grit and 
eminently fitted for all the finer polishing 
purposes, had led to the use of this article for 
polishing the finest optical glasses. By heating 
the product to a higher temperature, a much 
harder substance may be obtained, useful 
rather for grinding than for polishing pur- 
poses. By adding salts of alumina, chro- 
mium and other similar salts to the iron solu- 
tion, we may obtain in the final result — using 
sufficient heat — ^products nearly, if not quite, 
equal to emery, and of extraordinary fine- 
ness. 

4159. Acetate of Iron. Dissolve 20 
ounces sulphate of iron in 7 ounces strong 
sulphuric acid, and heat in a porcelain dish 
nearly to boiling. Then add gradually 10 
ounces strong nitric acid; and, when action 
ceases, while still hot, add sufficient ammonia 
to precipitate all the iron as sesquioxide. 
Collect this on a linen cloth, and wash with 
water until the washings taste no longer 
saline. "While still moist, put the sesquioxide 
into a bottle with sufficient strong acetic acid 
to dissolve it. 

Twenty ounces of sulphate of iron contain 
4 ounces iron; hence, if sufficient water be 
added to make the acetate up to 50 ounces, the 
solution of acetate of iron thus obtained 
win contain 8 per cent, of iron. 

4160. Citrate of Iron. This salt is 
easily formed by digesting iron filings or wire 
with citric acid, and evaporating the solution 
as quickly as possible out of contact with the 
air. It presents the appearance of a white 
powder, nearly insoluble in water, and rapidly 
passing to a higher state of oxidation by ex- 
posure to the air. Its taste is highly metallic. 
It is usually administered in the form of pills, 
mixed with gum or symp, to prevent prema- 
ture decomposition. 

4161. Iodide of Iron. Mix together 6 
ounces iodine, 2 ounces iron filings, and 4 J 
pints water ; boil in a sand-bath until the li- 
quid turns to a pale green, filter, wash the 
residue with a little water, and evaporate the 
mixed liquors in an iron vessel, at 212°, to 
dryness, and immediately put the iodide into 
well- stoppered bottles. A great deal has been 
■'^^tten and said about the preparation of 
/odide of iron, but there is in reality very 
little difficulty in the process. As soon as 
Iodine and iron are mixed together under wa- 
ter, much heat is evolved, and if too much 
water be not used, the combination is soon 
completed, and the liquor merely requires to 
be evaporated to dryness, out of contact with 
the air, at a heat not exceeding 212°. This is 
most cheaply and easily performed by em- 
ploying a glass flask, with a thin broad bot- 
tom and narrow mouth, by which means the 



evolved steam wiU exclude air from tne vesseL 
The whole of the uncombined water may be 
known to be evaporated when vapor ceases 
to condense on a piece of cold glass held over 
the mouth of the fiask ; a piece of moistenea 
starch paper occasionally applied in the same 
way will indicate whether free iodine be 
evolved; should such be the case, the heat 
should be immediately lessened. "When the 
evaporation is completed, the mouth of the 
flask should be stopped up by laying a piece 
cf sheet India-rubber on it, and over that a 
flat weight ; the flask must be then removed, 
and, when cold, broken to pieces, the iodide 
weighed, and put into dry and warm stoppered 
wide-mouthed glass pMals, which must be 
immediately closed, tied over with bladder, 
and the stoppers dipped iato melted wax. 

4162. Ammonio - Citrate of Iron. 
Take 12^ ounces carbonate of soda, and 12 
ounces sulphate of iron; dissolve each sepa- 
rately in 6 pints boiling distilled water. Mix 
the solutions while hot, and allow the precip- 
itate to subside. Decant the liquor, and, after 
washing the precipitate frequently with 
water, drain it. Then add to it 6 oimces 
citric acid in powder, and dissolve the mix- 
tm-e by a gentle heat. "When cool, add 9 fluid 
ounces liquor of ammonia of specific gravity 
.960. It must then be filtered, gently evap- 
orated to the consistence of syrup, and" spread 
very thinly on wanu sheets of glass to dry, 
which it will rapidly do, if exposed in an atmo- 
sphere of warm dry air, and may then be easily 
detached from the glass, in thin scales of 
great brilliancy and beauty. Only a gentle 
heat must be employed, not exceeding that of 
a water-bath. This is the method of produc- 
ing those beautiful transparent niby-colored 
scales which are so much admired. It must 
be kept in well-stopped bottles. 

4163. Saccharine Carbonate of Iron. 
A sweet-tasted greenish mass or powder. It 
is one of the best of the chalybeates in doses 
of 5 to 10 grains. When pure it should be 
easily soluble in hydrochloric acid with brisk 
effervescence. Take 4 ounces sulphate of 
iron, and 4J ounces carbonate of soda; dis- 
solve each separately in 1 quart boiling water. 
Mix the solutions while hot ; and, after allow- 
iQg time for subsidence, collect the precipitate, 
wash it frequently with water, and drain. 
Then add 2 ounces sugar previously dis- 
solved in 2 fluid ounces water, evaporate over 
a water-bath to dryness, and keep in a well- 
stopped bottle. 

4164. Carburet of Iron. Flumhago, or 
Nack-lead, is the native carburet of iron. To 
purify it for chemical use, heat it to redness 
with caustic potassa in a covered crucible, 
then wash it well with water, boil it in nitric 
acid and in nitro-muriatic acid (aqua regia) ; 
again wash it in water, dry it, and expose 
at a white heat to a stream of dry chlorine 
gas. Lastly, wash it with water and again 
heat it to dull redness. (Dumas.) 

4165. Chloride of Iron. The muriate 
or protochloride of iron is obtained by dissolv- 
ing iron filings or scales in hydrochloric acid, 
and crystallizing by evaporation. It forms 
soluble green crystals, and is sometimes 
called Jiydrated chJoride of iron. The above 
is not quite pure, but to obtain a pure white 
crystalline protochloridCj transmit dry hydrO' 



MISCELLAXEOUS CHEMICALS. 



389 



chloric acid gas over iron heated to redness. 
This is volatile at a high temperature. {See 
No. 117.) 

4166. Perchloride of Iron. The pcr- 
muriate or sesquichloride of iron is obtained 
by dissolving sesquioxide or rust of iron in 
hydrochloric acid, evaporating to the consist- 
ence of syrup, and crystallizing. It forms 
red crystals, not quite pure. The pure per- 
chloride is formed by passing chlorine over 
heated iron. This is soluble in water, alcohol, 
and ether, very deliquescent and corrosive, 
and is dissipated by a heat a little above 
212"^ Fahr. (Cooleij.) Perchloride of iron 
should not be given in mixtures containing 
medicated syrups or gum-arabic, since the 
latter, as veil as aU substances containing 
tannin, "^hich is the case "with those syrups, 
are incompatible with ferric salts. The pro- 
per menstruum is simple sugared vrater; it 
is also necessary to keep these mixtures from 
the light, on account of the chemical reduc- 
tion produced by the latter. {Eymael.) 

4167. Ferrocyanide of Iron. This is 
pure Prussian blue. Dissolve 9 troy ounces 
ferrocyanide of potassium in 2 pints vrater, 
and add it gradually, with stirring, to 1 pint 
of the solution of tersulphate of iron previous- 
ly diluted with 1 pint water. Filter the mix- 
ture, and wash the precipitate on the filter 
with boiling water until the washings pass 
nearly tasteless. Lastlv drv it and rub it 
into powder. {U. S. Fli) 

4168. Solution of Tersulphate of 
Iron. Take 2i troy ounces sulphuric acid, 
and If troy ounces nitric acid ; mix them with 
h pint water in a large capsule, heat to. the 
boiling point, and add 12 troy ounces sulphate 
of iron in coarse powder, 3 ounces at a time, 
stirring after each addition till effervescence 
ceases. Continue the heat until the solution 
acquires a reddish-brown color, and is free 
from nitrous odor. TThen nearly cold add 
water to make it up to li pints. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4169. Ferridcyanide of Iron. This is 
better known as Tumbull's Prussian blue. 
(See Xo. 2674.) 

4170. Tannate of Iron. Dissolve 1 
part of tannin in 150 of boiling water; add 9 
parts hydrated sesquioxide of iron, freshly 
precipitated, washed, and dried in the water- 
bath; evaporate gently to one half; filter, 
then add 1 part sugar, evaporate to dryness, 
and keep in a close vessel. Or : 1 part sesqui- 
oxide of iron and 2 of tannic acid evaporated 
to dryness with 3 parts alcohol. 

4171. Nitrate of Iron. The protoni- 
trate of iron is obtained by dissolving proto- 
sulphuret of iron in dilute nitric acid in the 
cold, and evaporating the solution in a vac- 
uum. It forms small green crystals, very 
soluble, and liable to oxidation. 

4172. Pemitrate of Iron. A deep 
red liquid formed by digesting nitric acid 
diluted with about half its weight of water 
on the sesquioxide of iron. It is also prepared 
from the metal. {See Xo. 116.) 

4173. Oxide of Manganese. There 
are, according to Cooley, seven distinct com- 
pounds of oxygen and manganese, but the 
only one directly employed in the arts is the 
black oxide (binoxide or deutoxide) of man- 
ganese. It is a very plentiful mineral produc- 
tion, and is found in great abundance in many 



parts of Europe. The manganese of com- 
merce is prepared by washing, to remove the 
earthy matter, and grinding in mills. The 
blackest samples are esteemed the best. It is 
chiefly used to supply oxygen gas, and in the 
manufacture of glass and chlorine ; in dye- 
ing, and to form the salts of manganese. 

4174. Chloride of Nickel. iSTeutralize 
muriatic acid with oxide (protoxide) of nickel, 
and evaporate gently ; small green crystals of 
chloride {mnriatc) of nickel. If these crystals 
are pure, they are rendered yellow and anhy- 
drous by heat ; if cobalt be present the salt 
retains a green tint. 

4175. Protoxide of Nickel. The pro- 
toxide {oxide) of nickel is obtained in an 
anhydrous form by heating oxalate of nickel 
to redness in an open vessel. The hydrated 
oxide is an ash-grey powder formed hj pre- 
cipitating the oxalate of nickel with caustic 
potassa. 

4176. Peroxide of Nickel. The 
peroxide {sesquioxide) is obtained by pass- 
ing chlorine through water holding the hy- 
drated oxide in suspension. 

4177. Sulphate of Nickel. By neu- 
tralizing the protoxide of nickel vtdth dilute 
sulphuric acid, green prismatic crystals of 
sulphate of nickel are obtained. 

4178. Oxalate of Nickel. This is a 
pale bluish-green precipitate fonned by adding 
a strong solution of oxalic acid to a like solu- 
tion of sulphate of nickel. 

41 79. Tests for Solutions of the Salts 
of Nickel. Caustic alkalies give a pale-green 
precipitate, insoluble in excess of the precipi- 
tant, but soluble in a solution of carbonate of 
ammonia, yielding a greenish-blue liquid. 
Ferrocyanide of potassium gives a greenish- 
white precipitate. Sulphuretted hydrogen 
occasions no change in solutions of nickel 
containing free mineral acid ; but with alka- 
line solutions gives a black precipitate. 

4180. Acetate of Potassa. Mix together 
26 fluid ounces acetic acid with 12 fluid ounces 
distilled water; add gradually 1 pound or 
more, until saturation, of carbonate of po- 
tassa ; filter, and evaporate, by a sand-bath, to 
dryness. 

4181. Carbonate of Potassa. This is 
also known under the name Salt of Tartar, 
and Salt of Wormwood. The crude carbonate 
is obtained by lixiviating {see Xo. 23) wood 
ashes, evaporating the solution to dryness, 
and fusing in iron pots for several hours. 
This constitutes the potash of commerce. 

Another method of preparation is to transfer 
the product of the first evaporation to an oven 
or furnace so constructed that the flame is 
made to play over the alkaline mass, kept 
constantly stirred with an iron rod. The 
ignition is continued until the impurities are 
burned out, and the mass becomes of a blu- 
ish-white; this is commercial jpear?a67i. The 
TT. S. Pharmacopoeia directs, for general pur- 
poses, the impure carbonate to be dissolved 
in water, filtered, and evaporated until it 
thickens, and then granulated in the manner 
directed for the pure carbonate. 

4182. Pure Carbonate of Potassa. 
Put 12 troy ounces bicarbonate of potassa, in 
coarse powder, into a large iron cracible ; heat 
gradually until the water of crystallization is 
driven off, then raise the heat to redness and 



390 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



maintain it at that heat for 30 minutes. "WTien 
cool, dissolve it in distilled water, filter, and 
evaporate over a gentle fire until it thickens, 
then remove it from the fire and stir it con- 
stantly with an iron spatula until it granu- 
lates. {U.S. Ph.) 

4183. Bicarbonate of Potassa. Dis- 
solve 48 ounces carbonate of potassa in 10 
pints distilled water ; pass carbonic acid gas 
through the solution to saturation (the gas 
may be evolved from chalk by diluted oil of 
vitriol). Filter, and evaporate, that crystals 
may form, at a heat not exceeding 160° Fahr. ; 
decant the clear, and dry the crystals. ( U. 
S. Ph.) 

4184. Chlorate of Potassa. Transmit 
chlorine gas through a moderately strong and 
warm solution of pure caustic potassa, or its 
carbonate, until the alkali be completely neu- 
tralized, then boil for a few minutes, gently 
evaporate until a pelhcle forms on the surface, 
and set it aside, where it will cool very slowly. 
Crystals of the chlorate will form as the liquor 
cools, and must be collected, carefully washed 
with a little ice-cold water, and purified by 
re-solution and crystallization; the product 
is pure chlorate of potassa. The mother 
liquor, which contains much chloride potas- 
sium, by evaporation will yield more crys- 
tals, less pure than the former, or it may be 
saved for a future operation. This salt crys- 
tallizes in four and six-sided pearly scales; 
dissolves in 16 parts of water at 60°, and in 
2h parts at 212°. At about 450° it undergoes 
the igneous fusion, and on increasing the heat 
almost to redness, effervescence ensues, and 
fully 39 per cent, of pure oxygen gas is given 
off and the residue becomes changed into chlo- 
ride of potassium. "When mixed with in- 
flammable substances, and triturated, heated, 
or subjected to a smart blow, it explodes with 
great violence. It also fulminates when 
thrown into strong acids. (See No. 2124.) 
( Cooley. ) 

4185. Perchlorate of Potassa. To 
concentrated sulphuric acid, gently warmed 
in an open vessel, add, in small portions at a 
time, an equal weight of well-dried and finely 
powered chloride of potassa. The hisulphate 
of potassa formed, is washed off with a little 
cold water, and the remaining perchloride of 
potassa dissolved in boiling water and crys- 
tallized. 

4186. Chromate of Potassa. The 
yellow chromate of potash of commerce is 
only prepared on the large scale from the 
crude chrome ore, and is the common source 
of nearly all the other compounds of chromium. 
The ore, freed as much as possible from its im- 
purities, is ground to powder in a mill, and 
mixed with ^ or i of its weight of bruised 
nitre, and in this state exposed to a powerful 
heat for several hours, on the hearth of a 
reverberatory furnace, during which time it is 
frequently stirred up with iron rods. The 
calcined matter is next raked out and lixi- 
viated with hot water. A beautiful yellow- 
colored solution results, which is evaporated 
briskly over a naked fire, when the chromate 
of potash falls down under the foiTu of a gran- 
ular yellow salt, which is removed from time 
to time with a ladle, and thrown into a wooden 
vessel, furnished with a bottom full of holes, 
called the draining-box, where it is left to 



drain and dry. In this state it forms the 
commercial chromate of potash. By a second 
solution and crystallization, it may be obtained 
in larger and more regular crystals. ( Cooley. ) 

4187. Bichromate of Potassa. The 
rec? chromate of potash is obtained from a 
concentrated solution of the yellow chromate, 
by adding sulphuric (or, still better, acetic) 
acid in quantity equal to half that required 
for the neutralization of the salt. (See No. 
83. ) The liquid is then concentrated hj evapo- 
ration, and slowly cooled, so that crystals may 
form. 

4188. Substitute for Bichromate of 
Potassa. One of the German scientific jour- 
nals calls attention to the fact that for many 
pm-poses, such as for dyeing wool black, 
Grlauber's salt and sulphuric acid can be eco- 
nomically substituted for bichromate of po- 
tassa. It gives the following recipe for dyeing 
100 pounds of loose wool — namely, 6 pounds 
sulphate of soda, 2 pounds sulphuric acid, and 
2 pounds sulphate of copper, which are to be 
boiled together for an hour, and colored with 
40 to 50 pounds logwood, and 1 pound sul- 
phate of copper, and finally colored black by 
means of a little sulphate of iron. The black 
thus obtained is pronounced to be beautiful, 
cheap, and easily spun, remaining loose and 
soft. 

4189. Nitrite of Potassa. It is ob- 
tained mixed with a little nitre and potash by 
heating nitre to redness. To purify the 
residuum, dissolve it in boiling water, set 
aside for 24 hours, pour off the liquid from 
the deposited nitre, neutralize the free alkali 
with acetic acid, and add twice its volume of 
alcohol. In a few hours more, nitre crystalli- 
zes, and the liquid separates into two layers ; 
the upper is alcoholic solution of acetate of 
potash, the lower is solution of nitrate of 
potash, which may be evaporated to dryness, 
or kept in solution. (Beasley.) 

Or, pass nitrous acid gas, formed by acting 
on 1 part of starch with 10 of nitric acid, 
through a solution of caustic potash, specific 
gravity 1.38, until it becomes acid ; then add 
a little caustic potash, so as to render it dis- 
tinctly alkaline. It may then be kept in the 
liquid form, or evaporated to dryness. ( Coren- 
winder. ) 

4190. Permanganate of Potassa. 
This consists of slender, prismatic crystals, 
of a dark-purple color, inodorous, and of a 
sweetish, astringent taste. It is a powerful 
disinfectant, and oxidizing agent, from the 
facility with which it parts with its oxygen. 
It has been found useful in medicine in various 
ways, and forms an excellent, though unstable 
hair dye. (See No. 1211.) It may be ob- 
tained by mixing 8 parts of peroxide of 
manganese with 7 parts chlorate of potassa, 
both in fine powder, adding 10 parts of hydrate 
of potassa, dissolved in a small quantity of 
water, evaporating to dryness, powderiug, 
exposing the powder to a low red heat in 
a plantinum crucible, dissolving the mass in a 
large quantity of water, decanting, evapora- 
ting, and crystallizing. These crystals are per- 
manganate of potassa. The permanganates 
or basic compounds of permanganic (manga- 
nesic) acid are all marked by their rapid 
decomposition when in contact with orgamc 
matter. ( Cooley. ) 



MISCELLAXEOUS CHEMICALS. 



391 



4191. Tests for Permanganate of 
Potassa. A very dilute solution has a 
rose-color, free from green tinge, and is in- 
stantly decolorized by arsenite of potassa, 
\dth the formation of a broTvn precipitate. 
{U. S. Ph.) Dissolve 44 grains granulated 
sulphate of iron in 2 fluid drachms dilute 
sulphuric acid ; the solution should completely 
decolorize 5 grains of the permanganate dis- 
solved in water. (Br. Ph.) 

4192. Hydrate of Potassa. This is 
also known nnder the name oi caustic potash. 
Liquor of potassa, 1 gallon ; evaporate in a 
clean iron vessel over the fire until the ebulli- 
tion being finished, the hydrate of potassa 
liquefies ; pour this into proper moulds. A 
pale greyish or bluish solid, very soluble in 
water and alcohol. It should be totally 
soluble in alcohol. Its solution should be 
scarcely affected by the nitrates of baryta and 
silver. It is chiefly used as a caustic, and in 
chemistry. {Cooley.) 

4193. Potassa with Lime. Rub to- 
gether, in a warm mortar, 1 ounce each of 
hydrate of potassa and quicklime, and keep 
the powder from the air in a well-stopped 
bottle. This is a caustic, but less manageable 
than either nitrate of silver (lunar caustic) 
or hydrate of potassa (caustic potash.) 

4194. Nitrate of Potassa. Called also 
nitre and saltpetre. This salt is spontaneously 
generated in the soil, owing to the action of 
the atmosphere, and crystallizes upon its sur- 
face in various parts of the world, especially 
in the East Indies. It is also produced artifi- 
cially by exposing a mixture of calcareous 
soil and animal matter to the atmosphere, 
when nitrate of lime is slowly formed, and is 
extracted by Bxiviation. The liquid is then 
decomposed by adding carbonate of potash, 
by which carbonate of lime is precipitated 
and nitrate of potash remains in solution. 

4195. To Purify Nitre. ]^itre or salt- 
petre is purified for medicinal use in the fol- 
lowing manner : Dissolve 4 pounds commercial 
nitre in 1 quart boiling distilled water ; with- 
draw the heat, and stir constantly as it cools. 
The minute crystals, thus obtained, are to be 
drained, and washed in a glass or earthenware 
percolator, with cold distilled water, until the 
washings cease to give a precipitate with a so- 
lution of nitrate of silver. The contents of 
the percolator are then to be withdrawn and 
dried in an oven. {Cooleij.) 

4196. Tartrate of Potassa. Dissolve 
8 ounces carbonate of potash in 2 quarts 
distilled water ; whilst boiling hot, add gradu- 
ally 1 pound, more or less, of bitartrate of 
potassa (cream of tartar) in fine powder, 
until the solution is neutralized, or ceases 
to change the color of either blue or red- 
dened litmus paper. Filter through muslin, 
and evaporate until a pellicle forms on the 
surface ; then set it aside to crystallize. After 
12 hours, collect the crystals, dry them on 
bibulous paper, and keep preserved from the 
air. 

4197. Bitartrate of Potassa. This is 
well known under the name of cream of tar- 
tar, and is found deposited as a crust on the 
sides of the casks and vats used for the fer- 
mentation of grape juice. The deposit from 
white wine is white tartar; that from red 
wine is red tartar, or argol. It is purified by 



boiling it in water, and crystallizing; it is 
then again dissolved in boiling water, and 
decolorized with charcoal {see No. 1729), and 
aluminous clay ; the resulting clear liquid is 
allowed to cool slowly, forming crystals of 
the cream of tartar of commerce. 

4198. Bromide of Potassium. Put 1 
troy ounce iron filings into 1| pints distilled 
wafer; add 2 troy ounces bromine, stirring 
frequently during 30 minutes ; heat gently 
until the liquid assumes a greenish color, and 
add gradually 2^ troy ounces pure carbonate 
of potassa (previously dissolved in 1^ pints 
distilled water), until it ceases to produce a 
precipitate; continue the heat for 30 minutes, 
then filter. ~Wash the precipitate with 1 pint 
boiling distilled water, and filter. Mix the 
filtered liquids, and crystallize by evaporation. 
Dry the crystals on bibulous paper and keep 
them in a well-stoppered bottle. ( Z7. S. Ph.) 

4199. Chloride of Potassium. This is 
obtained from the mother liquor after making 
chlorate of potassa {see No. 4184), by evap- 
orating it to dryness, and heating it to a dull 
redness ; it is then dissolved in water, puri- 
fied by defecation and crystallized by evap- 
oration. 

4200. Ferridcyanide of Potassium. 
This is the red prussiate of potash, and is ob- 
tained from a solution of 1 part ferrocyanide 
of potassium in 16 parts cold water, by pass- 
ing chlorine gas slowly through it, with con- 
stant agitation, until the liquid appears of a 
reddish green color^ and ceases to give a blue 
precipitate, or even a blue tinge, to a solution 
of a sesquisalt of iron, an excess of chlorine 
being carefully avoided. The liquor is then 
evaporated tUl a pellicle forms on the surface, 
filtered while hot, and set aside to cool ; the 
crystals are again dissolved and crystallized. 
{Cooley.) 

4201. Ferrocyanide of Potassium. 
This yellow prussiate of potash is the prus- 
siate of potash of commerce. It is obtained 
by exposing 10 parts potash or pearlash ; 10 
parts coke, cinders, or coal ; and 5 parts iron 
turnings, all in coarse powder, to a full red 
heat in an open crucible, stirring occasionally 
until small jets of purple flame are no longer 
seen. "When cool, the soluble matter is dis- 
solved out of it, the solution filtered, evapo- 
rated, and crystallized. The crystals ob- 
tained are redissolved in hot water and cooled 
very slowly, forming large yellow crystals of 
the ferrocyanide of potassium of commerce. 
In order to obtain a pure article, fuse efflo- 
resced commercial prussiate of potash in a 
glass vessel, dissolve the fused mass in water, 
neutralize any excess of alkali with acetic 
acid, and precipitate the salt with strong al- 
cohol ; wash the precipitate with a little weak 
alcohol, redissolve it in water, and crystallize. 
{Cooley.) 

4202. Cyanide (Cyanuret) of Potas- 
sium. Mix thoroughly 8 ounces of dry ferro- 
cyanide of potassium and 3 ounces dry car- 
bonate of potassa ; throw the mixture into a 
deep red-hot earthen crucible, the heat being 
sustained until effervescence ceases, and the 
fluid portion of the mass becomes colorless ; 
after a few minutes' rest, to allow the contents 
to settle, the clear portion is poured from the 
heavy black sediment at the bottom on a 
clean marble slab ; and, while yet warm, bro- 



392 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



ken up and placed in -^ell-closed bottles. 
"WTien pure, this salt is colorless and odorless, 
its crystals are cubic or octahedral, and are 
anhydrous. If it effervesces with acids, it 
contains carbonate of potassa. If it be yellow, 
it contains iron. (Liebig.) 

4203. Iodide of Potassium. This im- 
portant medicinal compound is obtained in 
various ways. The ITnited States Phar- 
macopoeia gives the following formula for 
its preparation : To 6 troy ounces potassa, 
dissolved in 3 pints boiling distilled water, 
add gradually finely powdered i-odine, stirr- 
ing after each addition until the solution be- 
comes colorless, and continue the addition 
until the liquid remains slightly colored from 
excess of iodine. (This will require about 16 
troy ounces of iodine.) Evaporate the solu- 
tion to dryness, stirring in 2 troy ounces fine- 
ly powdered charcoal towards the close of the 
operation, so that it may be intimately mixed 
with the dried salt. Eub this to powder, and 
heat it to dull redness in an iron crucible, 
maintaining that temperature for 15 minutes. 
After it has cooled, dissolve out the saline 
matter with distilled water, filter the solution, 
evaporate, and set it aside to crystallize. An 
additional quantity of crystals may be ob- 
tained from the mother water by further eva- 
poration. 

A solution of iodide of potassium keeps 
decidedly better when there is neither plain 
nor aromatic syrup or sugar in it. l\^hen 
gargles of honey of roses, with alum and 
water, have a black color, though that of 
honey be of the proper shade, this is owing to 
the presence of iron in the alum, which is by 
no means a rare occurrence. 

4204. Sulphuret of Potassium. Eub 
together 1 ounce sublimed sulphur, and 2 
ounces dry carbonate of potassa ; heat it 
gradually in a covered crucible until it ceases 
to swell and is completely melted. Pour the 
liquid on to a marble slab, and, when cold, 
break the mass into pieces, and keep in well- 
stopped bottle of green glass, ( U. S. Ph.) 

4205. Sulphocyanide of Potassium. 
Take 3 parts cyanide of potassium, and 1 part 
sulphur ; digest them for some time in 6 parts 
water, then add 3 parts more water; filter, 
evaporate, and crystallize. It forms long, 
slender, colorless prisms, which are anhy- 
drous, deliquescent, and fusible; very solu- 
ble in water and in alcohol, and not poison- 
ous. 

4206. Acetate of Soda. This is pre- 
pared from carbonate of soda, by the same 
method directed for acetate of potassa (see 
No. 4180), except that the resulting solution 
is evaporated to a pelhcle, and set aside to 
crystallize. 

4207. Sulphate of Soda. Also called 
Glauber's salt. This is usually obtained by 
dissolving 2 pounds of the chloride of sodium 
left after the distillation of muriatic acid {see 
No. 3883) in 1 quart of boiling water; the so- 
lution is next neutralized with carbonate of 
lime evaporated, and crystallized. It is sol- 
uble in cold water, its solubility decreasing 
as the temperature of the water is raised; 
insoluble in alcohol, and fuses when heated. 

4208. Carbonate of Soda. The car- 
bonate of soda of commerce is either pre- 
pared by lixiviating the ashes of sea- weed, or 



from sulphate of soda. The ashes of marine 
plants have been long an article of commerce, 
under the names of barilla, barilla ashes, Jceljp, 
blanquette, &c., but the carbonate made from 
them is of a very impure description. That 
made from the sulphate is much purer, and, 
when the process is well managed, merely 
contains a trace of sulphuric acid. The sul- 
phate of soda is mixed with an equal weight 
of chalk and about half its weight of coal, 
each being previously ground to powder, and 
the mixture is exposed to a great heat in a re- 
verberatory furnace, and during the calcina- 
tion is frequently stirred with a long iron rod. 
The dark grey product usually contains about 
22 or 23 per cent, of carbonate of soda. This 
is now lixiviated with tepid water, and the 
solution, after defecation, evaporated to dry- 
ness, mixed with a little sawdust, and roasted 
in a reverberatory furnace at a heat not ex- 
ceeding 700^' Fahr., until all the sulphur is 
expelled. The product now receives the 
name of soda-ash, or soda-salt, and contains 
about 50^ of alkali. It may he purified by 
solution in water, defecation, evaporation, 
and crystallization; it then becomes commer- 
cial crystallized carbonate of soda, consisting 
of large transparent crystals, which effloresce 
by exposure to the air, crumbling into a 
white dry powder. The carbonate used in 
medicine is prepared from the commercial 
crystals by dissolving, filtering, and careful 
crystallization. 

4209. Bicarbonate of Soda. This may 
be prepared fi'om a solution of carbonate of 
soda treated in the same manner as for bicar- 
bonate of potassa. (See No. A18o.) The U. 
S. Pharmacopoeia directs carbonate of soda in 
small pieces to be enclosed in a box (having 
an air-tight lid, and an inner bottom perfora- 
ted with holes), and thus subjected, until sat- 
urated, to a stream of carbonic acid gas 
previously passed through water. 

Cooley recommends the following process : 
Mix together 1 part carbonate of soda with 
2 parts dried carbonate of soda, both in pow- 
der, and surround them with an atmosphere 
of carbonic acid gas, under pressure. Let the 
action go on till no more gas is absorbed, 
which will generally occupy 10 to 14 hours, 
according to the pressure employed, then re- 
move the salt and diy it at a heat not above 
120° Fahr. 

4210. Phosphate of Soda. Mix 10 
pounds powdered bone ashes with 44 fluid 
ounces sulphuric acid ; add gradually 6 pints 
water, and digest for 3 days, replacing the 
water which evaporates; then add 6 pints 
boiling water, strain through linen, and wash 
the residue on the filter with boiling water. 
Mix the liquors, and, after defecation, decant 
and evaporate to 6 pints ; let the impurities 
again settle, and neutralize the clear fluid, 
heated to boiling, with a solution of carbonate 
of soda in slight excess ; crystals will be de- 
posited as the solution cools, and by suc- 
cessively evaporating, adding a little soda to 
the mother liquor till it is feebly alkaline, and 
cooling, more crystals may be obtained. 
Keep it in closed vessels. (Ed. Ph.) 

4211. Hyposulphite of Soda. Mix 
together 1 pound dried carbonate of soda and 
10 ounces flowers of sulphur, and slowly heat 
the powder in a porcelain dish until the sul- 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



393 



phur melts ; stir freely, to expose it to the at- 
mosphere, until the incandescence flags, then 
dissolve the mass in water, and immediately 
boil the filtered liquid with some flowers of 
sulphur ; lastly, carefully concentrate the so- 
lution for crystallization. (Cooley.) 

It may also be prepard by dissolving 8 parts 
carbonate of soda in 16 parts water; add 1 
part sublimed sulphur, and pass sulphurous 
acid gas, in excess, into the solution ; boil the 
liquid in a glass matrass for a few minutes, 
fiJter, gently evaporate the filtrate to ^ its 
volume, and set it aside in a cool place to crys- 
tallize. (Paris Codex.) 

4213. Tungstate of Soda. This is 
formed by dissolving tungstic acid in a con- 
centrated solution of pure soda. Tungstic 
acid is a yellow powder obtained by digesting 
native tungstate of lime, finely powdered, in 
nitric acid. It forms tungstates with metals 
and bases. 

4213. Potassio-Tartrate of Soda. 
Known in commerce as Scignette's or Eoclielle 
salt. Dissolve 12 ounces carbonate of soda 
in 2 quarts boiling water ; add gradually 16 
ounces bitartrate of potassa in fine powder. 
Strain, evaporate to a pellicle or crust {see No. 
9), and set it aside to crystallize. The mother 
liquor may be further evaporated for a second 
supply of crystals, {Cooley.) The TJ. S. 
Pharmacopoeia adopts the same method, but 
directs 5 pints of boiling water to be used. 

4214. Bromide of Sodium. This is 
now employed to a great extent instead of 
bromide of potassium ; it is more active than 
the latter, is more quickly absorbed, and more 
regularly eliminated. To prepare it pm-e and 
in large quantities the following method is 
recommended : Bromide of ammonium is de- 
composed by an equivalent quantity of caustic 
or carbonate of soda, which, of com*se, must 
be free from sulphuric and hydrochloric acids. 
The solution yields, after evaporation, small 
cubes of anhydrous bromide of sodium. 

4215. Chloride of Sodium. This is a 
muriate of soda, or common table salt, and is 
largely obtained by the evaporation of sea 
water, or from the water of salt springs. It 
dissolves in about 2i parts of water at 60^^ 
Fahr.; is insoluble in pure alcohol; fuses at a 
red heat; and at a higher temperature becomes 
volatile. 

4216. Iodide of Sodium. This is ob- 
tained from soda in the same manner as iodide 
of potassium. {See No. 4203.) 

4217. Nitro-Prusside of Sodium. To 
213 parts of powdered ferroprussiate of potash, 
in a porceliain basin, add 4C0 parts of nitric 
acid of 1.42 density (or 337-|- parts at 1.50), 
adding all the acid at once. "When dissolved, 
transfer to a bolt-head, and digest in a water- 
bath until the solution precipitates salts of 
protoxide of iron of a slate color. iSTcutral- 
ize, when cold, with a cold solution of car- 
bonate of soda; then boil, and separate the 
precipitate by filtration. Evaporate the liquid 
again, filter, and allow the nitrates of potash 
and soda to crystallize out. Evaporate the 
liquid again, and remove the prismatic crys- 
tals of nitro-prusside as they form. They 
may be dissolved in water and recrystallized 
by cooling. 

4218. Acetate of Am.monia. Mix to- 
gether equal parts of sal-ammoniac and ace- 



tate of potassa, and distill ; binacetate of 
ammonia passes over into the receiver, as an 
oily liquid, which, on cooling, forms a radiated 
crystalline mass. By passing dry ammoniacal 
gas into this salt, melted by a gentle heat, it 
is transformed into the neutral acetate, and 
becomes soUd and inodorous. 

Or : By saturating strong acetic acid with 
ammonia, and evaporating over sulphuric acid 
in vacuo, crystals of acetate of ammonia may 
be obtained. Yery soluble both in alcohol 
and water, and very deliquescent. 

4219. Carbonate of Ammonia. The 
Neutral Carbonate is prepared by mixing 
equal parts sal-ammoniac, powdered and well 
dried, and dried carbonate of soda, and sub- 
liming, by a gradually increased heat, from 
an earthen retort into a refrigerated receiver. 

4220. Sesquicarbonate of Ammonia. 
This is the commercial carbonate of ammo- 
nia, and is prepared as follows; Sal-ammo- 
niac, or pure commercial sulphate of ammo- 
nia, and chalk, equal parts, both dry and in 
powder. Mix and sublime from an iron pot, 
into a long earthen or leaden receiver, well 
cooled. The receiver is usually fitted with a 
moveable lead cover, secured by a water-joint, 
and has an open lead pipe in the bottom, to 
allow the liquid products of the distillation to 
drain ofl" into a second receiver. "When made 
of the impure sulphate of ammonia, it must 
be re-sublimed in iron pots, furnished with 
leaden heads kept cool. A little water is 
commonly introduced into the subliming pots, 
to render the product translucent. The heat 
is usually applied by means of a common 
furnace, but a steam or water bath is prefera- 
ble, as the temperature required for this pur- 
pose does not exceed 200° Fahr. 

4221. Bicarbonate of Ammonia. The 
commercial carbonate reduced to fine powder, 
and exposed to the air for 24 hours, becomes 
a bicarbonate spontaneously. It can also 
be obtained by passing a stream of carbonic 
acid gas through a solution of the sesquicar- 
bonate until saturated, and drying the crystals 
which form without heat. 

4222. Muriate of Ammonia. Also 
called sal-ammoniac and liydrocldorate of am- 
monia. This substance was formerly prepared 
in Egypt by the sublimation of the' soot from 
camels' dung, which yields from i to J its 
weight. The sal-ammoniac of commerce is 
now wholly prepared at the great chemical 
works, and never by the small consumer, by 
whom it is merely occasionally refined or 
purified. The crude ammoniacal salt of the 
gas-works is placed in iron pots, lined with 
clay, and a leaden dome or head adapted, and 
heat applied until the whole has sublimed. 
When the crude salt is a sulphate, it is mixed 
with a sufficient quantity of muriate of soda 
before sublimation, and the sal-ammoniac is 
formed by the double decomposition of the 
ingredients. The preparation of sal-ammo- 
niac from bone-spuit salt is nearly similar. 
The sal-ammoniac of commerce is found under 
the form of large hemispherical, cup-like cakes 
or masses, having a semi-crystalline texture, 
and varying in weight from 100 to 1000 
pounds. It forms a clear and colorless solu- 
tion with water, and wholly volatilizes by 
heat. Mixed with lime or caustic potassa, it 
evolves the pungent odor of ammonia; it 



S94. 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



gives a white curdy precipitate with nitrate of 
silver. The sal-ammoniac of commerce is 
generally sufficiently pure for all the purposes 
of the arts, but when wanted of greater puiity, 
it may he broken into pieces and re-sublimed 
from an earthenware vessel into a large re- 
ceiver of earthenware or glass, in which state 
it is known as '^ flowers of sal- ammoniac/' 
from being in fine powder. Chemically pure 
hydrochlorate of ammonia may be prepared 
by adding the pure carbonate of ammonia 
to dilute hydrochloric acid until saturated. 
{Cooley.) 

4223. Sulphate of Ammonia. The 
commercial sulphate is obtained by saturating 
with weak oil of vitriol the ammoniacal 
liquor of the gas-works, or bone-spirit. For 
medicinal purposes it is prepared by satm*a- 
ting dilute sulphuric acid with sesquicarbon- 
ate of ammonia in slight excess; it is then 
filtered, evaporated by a gentle heat, and crys- 
tallized. 

4224. Murexide. This is the ptirpurate 
of ammonia, and consists of iridescent crys- 
tals, which reflect a beautiful green color, but 
transmit an equally fine reddish-purple color. 
It is obtained from alloxan, a substance 
formed by the action of nitric acid on uric 
acid. 

4225. Iodide of Ammonium. Place 
a portion of iodine in a flask with a little wa- 
ter ; add to it a solution of hydrosulphuret of 
ammonia, until the mixture loses its red 
color, and is turbid from the separation of 
sulphur; by shaking the flask, the most of 
the sulphur will form into a mass. Pour off 
the liquid, and boil it until all odor of sul- 
phuretted hydrogen and of ammonia is lost. 
Then filter it, and evaporate it, constantly 
stirring, over a flame, until it becomes pasty, 
and then in a water-bath until it forms a dry 
salt. (U. S. Bis.) 

4226. Sulphocyanide of Ammonium. 
Satm-ate 2 parts of common water of ammo- 
nia (specific gravity 0.950) with sulphuretted 
hydrogen ; and add 6 parts of the same am- 
monia. To this mixture add 2 parts of sul- 
phur, and the product of the distillation of 6 
parts of prussiate of potash, 3 of sulphuric 
arid, and 18 of water. Digest till the sulphur 
is no longer acted on, and the liquid becomes 
yellow. Boil the liquid till it becomes color- 
less, filter, evaporate, and crystallize. 

4227. Bromide of Ammonium. For 
the preparation of bromide of ammonium, 
bromine is added very gradually to diluted 
ammonia. The ensuing reaction produces 
much heat, which may cause ammonia and 
bromine to volatilize with the escaping nitro- 
gen. The combination, therefore, is effected 
b. a Wolffe's apparatus, which will condense 
and retain both perfectly. The evaporation 
of the fluid is also best done in an iron retort 
connected with a stoneware receiver, in which 
ammonia and some bromide of ammonium are 
condensed. 

4228. Sulphuret of Ammonium. 
iUsually called hydrosulphuret of ammonia. 
This is prepared from strong liquor of ammo- 
nia, by saturating it with sulphuretted hydro- 
fjen gas, and then adding a second portion of 
iquor of ammonia, equal in strength and 
quantity to that first used. Keep it m well- 
stoppered bottles. {See No. 1203.) 



4229. Manganate of Baiyta. The 

manganate of baryta, and of other alkalies, 
is formed by igniting the nitrate of the alka- 
lies with peroxide of manganese, with excess 
of air, and dissolving in water. {Booth.) 

4230. Nitrate of Baryta. It is pre- 
pared in the same manner as muriate of 
baryta {see No. 4234), substituting pure nitric 
acid for the muriatic acid. 

4231. Sulphate of Bary;ta. This 
occurs as a native mineral, and is white, if 
pure. It occasionally contains iron, which 
may be removed by washing first with dilute 
sulphuric acid, and afterwards with pure wa- 
ter. {See No. 2Q97.) 

4232. Acetate of Baryta. Dilute 
acetic acid neutralized with carbonate of 
baryta, and evaporated to form crystals. 

4233. Carbonate of Baryta. A heavy 
white powder found in the crude state abun- 
dantly in nature, and sufficiently pure for 
general purposes. The pm-e carbonate may 
be precipitated from a solution of chloride of 
barium by the addition of any pure alkaline 
carbonate, washing and drying the product. 
( Cooley. ) 

4234. Chloride of Barium. Also 
called Muriate of Baryta. Mix gradually 10 
ounces carbonate of baryta in small pieces, 
with ^ pint muriatic acid diluted with 1 quart 
distilled water; evaporate to a peUicle or 
crust {see No. 9), and set aside to crystallize. 

4235. Protoxide of Barium. This is 
the oxide of barium or baryta. {See No. 
398.5.) 

4236. Peroxide of Barium. The per- 
oxide or hinoxide is prepared from pure baryta, 
heated to a full red heat in a porcelain tube, and 
exposed to a stream of pure dry oxygen gas. 
Instead of baryta, its nitrate may be used, 
but the nitrous fumes must be allowed to 
pass off entirely before applying the oxygen. 

4237. Sulphuret of Barium. Calcine 
and reduce to powder 2 pounds sulphate of 
baryta, mix it with 4 ounces finely powdered 
charcoal ; submit the mixture for 3 hours to 
a loAV white heat in a covered crucible. When 
cool, powder, and boil for 5 minutes in 5 
pints water; decant the clear, and repeat 
the operation with 3 pints more water ; unite 
the liquors, and crystalhze by cooling. 

4238. Carbonate of Lithia. Precipi- 
tate a solution of sulphate of lithia, by a 
strong solution of sesquicarbonate of ammo- 
nia ; collect the precipitate, drain and press it, 
wash it with a little rectified spirit, and dry it. 
Dissolve in boihng water, and crystalhze by 
slow evaporation. 

4239. Sulphate of lithia. Finely 
powdered petahte, 1 part ; fluorspar, 2 parts ; 
mix, add oil of vitriol, 10 parts, and heat the 
mixture as long as acid vapors are evolved. 
The residuum must be dissolved in pure water 
of ammonia, boiled, filtered, the solution 
evaporated to dryness, and the dry mass 
heated to redness. The matter left is pure 
sulphate of lithia. {Berzelius.) 

Petalite or Spondumene is a mineral found 
in various parts of Europe, also in Massa- 
chusetts and Connecticut. {Booth.) 

4240. Carbonate of Magnesia. There 
are two simple carbonates of magnesia, the 
heavy and the light. 

The heavy carbonate is prepared from a 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



395 



saturated solution of sulphate of magnesia, 1 
part by measure; water, 3 parts; heat to the 
boiling point, then add cold saturated solu- 
tion of carbonate of soda, 1 part ; boil, with 
constant agitation, till effervescence ceases, 
then add boiling water, 100 parts, agitate well, 
decant off the clear liquid, drain, and wash the 
precipitate with hot water, in a linen cloth, 
and finish the drying by heating it in an iron 
pot. 

, The light carbonate is obtained from 4 
'pounds sulphate of magnesia, and 4 pounds 
9 ounces carbonate of soda, each separately 
dissolved in 2 gallons water. Mis and boil 
the liquors, constantly stirring for 15 minutes; 
after subsidence, decant the clear, wash the 
precipitate with boiling water, and dry it. 
The carbonate of magnesia of commerce is 
usually made up into cakes or dice, while 
drying, or is permitted to drain and dry in 
masses, which are then cut into shapes with 
a thin knife. It is powdered by rubbing it 
through a wire sieve. (Cooleij.) 

4241. Sulphate of Magnesia. This is 
the well-known Epsom salts of commerce, 
called after the saline springs of Epsom, in 
England, from the waters of which it was 
originally obtained. It is prepared on the 
large scale from Dolomite, or magnesian lime- 
stone. Heat the mineral with sufficient 
dilute sulphuric acid to convert all its car- 
bonate into sulphate of lime, wash out all 
the sulphate of magnesia with hot water, 
and, after defecation, evaporate and crys- 
tallize. 

Or, from bittern. Boil the residual liquor, 
or mother- water of sea-salt, for some hours, 
skim, and decant the clear, then concentrate 
by evaporation, and run the solution into 
wooden coolers; in 1 or 3 days i part of 
Epsom salts will have crystalhzed out. This 
is called singles. By re-solution in water, 
and re-crystallization, doubles, or Epsom salts, 
fit for the market, are obtained. 

4242. Sulphuret of Magnesia. The 
sulphide, or sulphuret, is prepared by fusing 
together, in a covered crucible, 5 parts cal- 
cined magnesia and 4 parts sulphur. 

4243. Chloride of Magnesium. Dis- 
solve magnesia in muriatic acid, evaporate to 
dryness, add an equal weight of muriate of 
ammonia, project the mixture into a red hot 
platinum crucible, and continue the heat until 
tranquil fusion is attained. Pour out the 
fused mass on to a clean stone ; and, when 
solid, break it into pieces, and transfer to a 
■warm, dry bottle. {Cooley.) 

Or: Dissolve magnesia in muriatic acid; 
evaporate to a specific gravity of 1.384 ; and 
put it, while hot, into a wide-mouthed flask 
to crystallize. {Paris Codex.) This chloride 
of magnesium is also called liydroclilorate or 
muriate of magnesia. 

4211. Acetate of Lime. Neutralize 
acetic acid with prepared chalk {see No. 1292), 
filter the solution, evaporate by a gentle heat, 
and allow to crystallize. 

4245. Chloride of Lime — called also 
hypochlorite and oxymuriate of lime, bleaching 
powder, and chlorinated lime — is seldom, if 
ever, made on the small scale, as it can be 
purchased of the large manufacturer of better 
quality and cheaper than it could possibly be 
made by the druggist. On the large scale the 



' chlorine is generated in leaden vessels, heated 
j by steam, and the gas, after passing through 
] water, is conveyed by a leaden tube into an 
apartment built of silicious sandstone, and ar- 
ranged with shelves or trays, containing 
fresh-slacked lime, placed one^above another 
about an inch asunder. The process must be 
continued for 4 days to produce a good article 
of chloride of linie. During this time the 
lime is occasionally agitated by means cf iron 
rakes, the handles of which pass through 
boxes of lime placed in the walls of the cham- 
ber, which act as valves. 

4246. Chloride of Calcium. Known 
also as muriate of lime. From the strong af- 
finity this salt has for water, it is much used 
for drying gases and absorbing the water 
from ethereal and oily liquids, in organic 
analyses. For this purpose it is used in the 
dry state. In its hydrous or crystallized 
form, it is much used in the preparation of 
freezing mixtures with snow. In this case, 
the evaporation need only be conducted so far 
that the whole becomes a solid mass on re- 
moval from the fire. For both this and the 
last-mentioned use it is reduced to powder. 
It is also much used as a test for sulphuric 
acid, with which it produces a white precipi- 
tate insoluble in nitric acid ; in the rectifica- 
tion of alcohol, and for forming a water-bath 
with a high boiling point. As a medicine, it 
has been given in some scrofulous and gland- 
ular diseases, and has also been used as a 
bath in the same cases. 

4247. To Prepare Chloride of Cal- 
cium. To hydrochloric acid, diluted with an 
equal weight of water, add powdered chalk 
or white marble, in small fragments, until ef- 
fervescence entirely ceases, and the liquid no 
longer reddens litmus paper. Filter, evapo- 
rate to one-half, and set it aside to crystallize. 
Then collect the crystals, dry them "^ by pres- 
sure between bibulous paper, and keep in a 
stoppered bottle. The mother-liquid will 
yield more crystals by further evaporation. 

4248. Hyposulphite of Lime. Slack 
5 ounces lime with enough water to make 4 
pints, boil up with 10 ounces of flowers of sul- 
phur, and pass into the solution sulphurous 
acid gas (free from carbonic acid) until it has 
become colorless. Then filter and evaporate 
to crystallization, at a temperature not exceed- 
ing 140° Fahrenheit. Another way to prepare 
this salt is to mix 44 ounces (by weight) of a 
solution of fused chloride of calcium of 1.238 
specific gravity, with a wanu solution of 25 
ounces hyposulphite of soda in 30 ounces 
water ; evaporate to 38 ounces, and pour off, 
while wann, from the crystals of chloride of 
sodium ; then allow to crystalhze, and purify 
the crystals by re-solution. 

4249. Cobalt. A metal found in ores 
associated with arsenic and other metals ; also 
present in meteoric iron. It is white, brittle, 
and does not change in the air; has a high 
melting point, and is strongly magnetic. 
Specific gravitv 8.-5. {Cooley.) 

4250. Nitrate of Cobalt. This may be 
obtained by dissolving metallic cobalt in 
nitric acid, and coUectiug the crystals. These 
crystals are ready soluble in water ; of a red 
color; deliquescent, and melt below 212° 
Fahr. At a higher heat, nitrous fumes are 
given off, and x^eroxide of cobalt remains. 



396 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



4251. Chloride of Cobalt. Dissolve 
carbonate of cobalt in muriatic acid ; tbe so- 
lution deposits rose-colored crystals on stand- 
ing, Tvhich contain "water. By evaporating 
tbe solution, anhydrous blue crystals of the 
chloride are obtained. {Cooley.) 

4252. Carbonate of Cobalt. This is 
precipitated from a solution of nitrate of co- 
balt, by carbonate of potassa, producing a 
pale peach-colored powder, soluble in acids. 
( Cooley. ) 

4253. Acetate of Cobalt. The acetate 
is obtained by dissolving carbonate of cobalt 
in acetic acid. Acetate of cobalt forms a sym- 
pathetic ink. {See No. 2540.) 

4254. Manganese. A hard, brittle, 
greyish-white metal, very easily oxidized, 
fuses with difficulty, unaffected by cold water, 
but dissolving freely in dilute sulphuric acid, 
evolving hydrogen gas. It has a specific 
gravity of 8.013. It is obtained by calci- 
nation in a crucible, at a strong heat, of 10 
parts by weight of an oxide of manganese, 
made into a paste with oil, and combined with 
1 part calcined borax. 

4255. Peroxide of Manganese. The 
ilacJc oxideis the only oxide of manganese that 
is directly employed in the arts. It is a plen- 
tiful mineral production in a crude state ; and 
is purified by grinding the native mineral or 
pyrolusite in miUs, and removing the earthy 
matter by washing. The blackest samples are 
esteemed the best. 

4256. Alum. The alum of commerce is 
a sulphate of alumina and potassa, obtained by 
lixiviation (see No. 23) from crude alum ore, 
or schist. It is obtained ta large crystals, 
slightly efflorescent. It is applied m the arts 
to a great variety of pm^poses. ^WTien deprived 
of its water of '^crystallization by heat, it be- 
comes biir7it or dried alum. Pure red or roche 
alumvras originally imported from Italy, where 
it is found in a native state. This has a red- 
dish tinge, which extends more or less through 
tb.e crystals. 

4257. Hydrate of Alumina. Dissolve 
alum in 6 times its weight of boiling water, 
add a solution of carbonate of potassa, in 
slight excess, agitate the mixture for a few 
minutes, and then aUow it to repose. After 
a time, pour the clear supernatant liquor from 
the precipitate or sediment, and wash the 
latter three or four times with tepid distilled 
or soft water. iSText coUect the precipitate 
on a fine calico filter, and again wash it with 
tepid water. "When it has drained, press it 
between bibulous paper, and, lastly, dry it 
either without heat, or at a temperature not 
higher than 120^^ to 130° Fahr. The product 
is a soft white powder, (Cooley.) 

4258. Acetate of Alumina. Add a solu- 
tion of acetate of baryta to another of sul- 
phate of alumina, and filter. Or, add 5 parts 
alum to 6 parts sugar of lead, each being first 
dissolved separately in hot water, and allowed 
to cool before mixing ; decant the clear liquor. 
The pure acetate is made from pure hydrate 
of alumina, by digesting it in cold, strong 
acetic acid, until the latter is saturated. By 
spontaneous evaporation long transparent 
crystals form. 

'4259. Sulphate of Alumina. Saturate 
dilute sulphuric acid with hydrate of alumina ; 
evaporate and crystallize. 



4260. Butyrine. An oily fluid obtained 

from butter. Keep clarified butter in a por- 
celain vessel, at a heat of 66°, for some days; 
carefully collect the oily portion which sepa- 
rates, and agitate it with an equal weight of 
absolute alcohol for 24 hours, then pour off 
the clear and evaporate, treat the oily residu- 
um with a little carbonate of magnesia to re* 
move any free acid, and wash off the hutyrate 
ot magnesia thus formed with water; next 
heat the remaining fatty matter in alcohol^ 
filter, and evaporate, to obtain the butyrine. 

4261. Bromine. A dark reddish-colored 
liquid, having an odor resembling chlorine. 
It freezes at — 4^,boils at about 135° Fahr., is 
very soluble in ether, less so in alcohol, and 
only slightly so in water, ^ith hydrogen it 
forms hydrobromic acid, and, with the bases, 
compounds called bromides or hydrobro- 
MATES. It is obtained as follows : A cuiTcnt of 
chlorine is passed through the uncrystaUizable 
residuum of sea- water, called bittern, which 
then assumes an orange tint, in consequence 
of bromine being set free from its combinations; 
sulphuric ether is then agitated with it, and 
the mixture allowed to stand until the ethereal 
portion, holding the bromine in solution, floats 
upon the surface. By decanting, and evap- 
orating the ether, a crude bromine may be 
obtained at once. To get it pure, the ethereal 
solution is carefully decanted, and agitated with, 
a solution of potassa, by which means bro- 
mide of potassium and bromate of potash are 
formed. The whole is next evaporated to dry- 

I ness, and submitted to a duU red heat ; the 
residuum is then powdered, mixed with pure 
peroxide of manganese, and placed in a retort; 
sulphuric acid, diluted with half its weight of 
water, is now poured in. Eed vapors imme- 
diately arise, and condense into drops of bro- 
mine, and are collected by plunging the neck 
of the retort to the bottom of a small receiver 
containing cold water. The bromine forms a 
stratum beneath the water, and may be col- 
lected and further purified by distillation from 
dry chloride of calcium. (Cooley.) 

4262. Iodide of Cadmuim. This is 
prepared by mixing iodine and cadmuim filings 
in a moist state. This is freely soluble in 
water or alcohol, and may be crystallized by 
evaporation from ether solution, in large 
white transparent crystals. ( U. S. Disp.) 

4263. Bromide of Cadmium. This is 
made from cadmium filings and bromine, in 
the same manner as the iodide of cadmium 
from iodine. It consists of long, white, efflo- 
rescent, crystalline needles. 

4264. 'Hydriodate of Quinine. To a 
concentrated solution of neutral sulphate of 
quinine, add, drop by drop, a concentrated 
solution of iodide of potassium; dry the preci- 
pitate in the shade ; or, heat the liquid nearly 
to the boiling point, and allow it to crystal- 
lize. 

4265. Sulphate of Q,uinine. This is 
the disulphate of quinia. Boil 48 troy ounces 
coarsely powdered yellow cinchona, in 13 
pints of water containing 1| troy ounces mu- 
riatic acid, and strain through muslin. Boil 
the residue twise successively with the same 
quantity of water and acid as before, and 
strain. Mix the decoctions, and, while the 
liquid is hot, gradually add 5 troy ounces 
finely powdered lime, previously mixed with 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



397 



S pints of water, stirring constantly nntil the 
quinia is completely precipitated. Wash the 
precipitate with distilled water; and, having 
pressed, dried, and powdered it, digest it in 
boiling alcohol. Pour off the liquid, and 
repeat the digestion several times until the 
alcohol is no longer rendered bitter. Mix the 
liquids, and distill off the alcohol until a brown 
viscid mass remains. Transfer it to a suitable 
vessel, and pour upon it 4 pints distilled 
water ; and, having heated the mixture to the 
boiling point, add as much sulphuric acid as 
may be necessary to dissolve the quinia. 
Then add 1^ troy ounces animal charcoal, boil 
for 2 minutes, filter while hot, and set it aside 
to crystallize. Should the liquid before filtra- 
tion be entirely neutral, acidulate it very 
slightly with sulphuric acid ; should it, on the 
contrary, change the color of litmus paper to 
a bright red, add more charcoal. Separate 
the crystals from the liquid, dissolve them 
in boiling distilled water slightly acidulated 
with sulphuric acid, add a little animal char- 
coal, filter the solution, and set it aside to 
crystallize. Lastly dry the crystals on bibu- 
lous paper with a gentle heat, and keep them 
in a well- stopped bottle. The mother- water 
may be made to yield an additional quantity 
of sulphate of quinia by precipitating the 
quinia with water of ammonia, and treating 
the precipitate with distilled water, sulphuric 
acid, and animal charcoal, as before. ( TJ. S. 
Ph.) "When pure it forms light, delicate, 
white needles. It is entirely soluble in hot 
water, and more readily so when an acid is 
present. Precipitated by ammonia, the re- 
siduary liquid, after evaporation, should not 
taste of sugar. By a gentle heat it loses 8 or 
10 per cent, of water. It is wholly consumed 
by heat. If chlorine be first added, and then 
ammonia, it becomes green. A solution of 10 
grains in 1 fluid ounce distilled water, and 2 
or 3 drops of sulphuric acid, if decomposed by 
a solution of 5 ounce carbonate of soda, in 
two waters, and heated till the precipitate 
shrinks and fuses, yields on cooliug a solid 
mass, which, when dry, weighs 7.4 grains, 
and in powder dissolves entirely in a solution 
of oxalic acid. 

4266. Tests for the Purity of Sul- 
phate of duinine. This salt is frequently 
adulterated with starch, magnesia, gum, 
sugar, &c. The first three remain undissolved 
when the salt is digested in spirit ; the fourth 
is dissolved out by cold water, and the last 
may be detected by precipitating the quinine 
by Liquor of potassa, and dissolving the pre- 
cipitate in boiling alcohol ; cinchona crystal- 
lizes out as the solution cools, but the qui- 
nine remains in the mother liquor. (Coolei/.) 

Dr. Stonelen proposes a test for the presence 
of salicine in sulphate of quinine. He em- 
ploys three kinds of sulphuric acid — viz. : the 
fuming, pure concentrated acid, free from 
arsenic and nitric acid; ordinary concentrated 
.sulphuric acid of commerce, containing a 
trace of nitric acid; and, lastly, sulphuric 
acid, to which, purposely, nitric acid had been 
added. Watch glasses having been placed on 
a sheet of white paper, and a drop or two of 
the acids above referred to (each in a separate 
glass) having been poured therein, a few crys- 
tals of sulphate of quinine are put on the 
acid; if pure, there is no coloration; but, even 



with 1 per cent, of salicine, the two first- 
named acids cause a distinct red coloration, 
which does not ensue with the acid containing 
nitric acid. This latter acid is not even col- 
ored by pure salicine. 

4267. Acetate of Morphia. The 
acetate of morphia of commerce is usually in 
the form of a whitish powder, and is prepared 
by the mere evaporation of the solution to 
dryness by a gentle heat. During the process 
a portion of the acetic acid is dissipated, and 
hence this preparation is seldom perfectly 
soluble in water, unless it be slightly acidula- 
ted with acetic acid. It is prepared by dis- 
solving 6 drachms morphia in 3 fluid drachms 
acetic acid specific gravity 1.048, diluted with 
4 fluid ounces distilled water; evaporate 
gently, and crystallize. 100 measures of a 
solution of 10 grains in i fluid ounce water, 
and 5 minims of acetic acid, heated to 212°, 
and decomposed by a very slight excess of 
ammonia, yield by agitation a precipitate, 
which, in 24 hours, occupies 15-^ measures of 
the liquid. 

4268. Opium. The juice obtained by 
cutting the unripe fruit of the white poppy, 
and hardened by exposure to the air. It 
yields several alkaloids, the principal of which 
is morphine. The best opium comes from 
Smyrna, in Turkey. Sometimes the com- 
mercial article is found adulterated with 
various substances in order to increase its 
weight. 

4269. To Test the Strength of Opium. 
Take 25 grains quicklime made into a milk 
with water, boil in this 100 grains opium, and 
filter the solution while hot ; saturate the 
filtrate with dilute hydrochloric acid, and 
then precipitate the morphia by the addition 
of liquor of ammonia, any excess of the latter 
being expelled by heat. Collect the precipi- 
tate, dry, and weigh it; the weight in grains 
will represent the percentage of morphia in 
the sample of opium tested. (Couerle.) 

4270. To Test the Purity of Opium. 
Macerate 100 grains opium for 24 hours in 2 
fluid ounces water; filter and express the 
residue ; then precipitate with a solution of ^ 
ounce carbonate of soda in 2 fluid ounces cold 
water; gently heat the precipitate until it 
fuses, then cool and weigh it. It should 
weigh at least 10 grains; and, when pow- 
dered, be entirely soluble in a solution of 
oxalic acid. 

4271. Chloroform. A thin, colorless 
hquid, of agreeable ethereal odor, and sweetish 
but slightly acrid taste. Its specific gravity 
(water standard) is 1.49, and the specific 
gravity of its vapor (air standard) is 4.2. It 
kindles with difiiculty, burning with a green- 
ish flame, and gives a dull, smoky-yellow 
color to the flame of alcohol. It occupies a 
prominent place among the ancesthetics (sub- 
stances used to produce insensibility to pain 
by inhaling them), but has in later times 
been, to a certain extent, superseded by 
nitrous oxide. (See Xo. 4060.) Externally 
applied, it is refrigerant, soothing, and allays 
pain. It neither reddens nor bleaches litmus 
paper. 

4272. To Obtain Chloroform. This is 
prepared on the large scale, by mixing, in a 
capacious retort or still, 4 pounds chloride of 
lime, 12 pounds water, and 12 fluid ounces 



398 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



rectified alcohol ; distill cautiously as long as 
a dense liquid is produced, which sinks in and 
separates from the water with which it passes 
over. Separate the lower stratum of chloro- 
form from the water, agitate it with a little 
sulphuric acid, and distill it by the heat of 
a water-bath from carbonate of baryta. 
{Dumas.') 

4273. To Obtain Pure Chloroform. 
Place in a capacious still 3 gallons water and 
30 fluid ounces rectified spirit, and raise the 
temperature to 100^ Fahr. Add 10 pounds 
clilorinated lime (slacked lime saturated with 
chlorine gas), and 5 pounds slacked lime, 
mixing thoroughly. Apply heat, which must 
be withdrawn as soon as distillation has com- 
menced, and distill 50 ounces ; agitate it with 
\ gallon water, and allow the crude chloroform 
to settle. Separate and wash the chloroform 
with 3 fluid ounces distilled water, repeating 
this operation 3 times, each time with fresh 
distilled water. Next agitate the chloroform 
for 5 minutes with an equal volume of sul- 
phuric acid ; when settled, transfer the upper 
stratum to a flask containing 2 ounces chloride 
of calcium in small pieces, and 5 ounce per- 
fectly dry slacked lime. Agitate thoroughly, 
and, after an hour, distill the pure chloroform 
over a water-bath. Keep in a well-stoppered 
bottle, in a cool place. The U. S. Dispeusato- 
ry has transferred this from the British Phar- 
macopoeia, consequently avoirdupois weight 
and Imperial measure are adopted. 

4274. To Purify Commercial Chloro- 
form. To 102 troy ounces commercial 
chloroform add 17 troy ounces sulphuric acid, 
occasionally shakrag during 24 hours. Sepa- 
rate the lighter liquid and mix it with 6 fluid 
drachms stronger alcohol. Then add 2 troy 
ounces carbonate of potassa, previously heat- 
ed to redness, and rubbed into powder while 
warm. Agitate thoroughly and distill to dry- 
ness. Keep the distilled liquid in well-stop- 
ped bottles. {U. S. Ph.) 

4275. Tests for the Purity of Chloro- 
form. Its specific gravity should not be 
less than 1.400, nor more than 1.494; and 
should boQ at 140° Fahr. "When dropped 
into water, it sinks in transparent globules 
without milldness. When mixed in a bottle 
with an equal bulk of sulphuric acid, it should 
produce no wannth ; and after standing for 24 
hours, neither liquid should be discolored, or, 
at most, a faint yeUow tinge imparted to the 
lower or acid stratum; more discoloration 
than this would denote the presence cf em- 
pyreumatic oily matter. "When evaporated 
on a porcelain plate, it leaves behind a slight- 
ly aromatic odor, but free from pungency. 

4276. Chloral. Chloral is an oily li- 
quid, possessing an ethereal smell ; it is solu- 
ble in alcohol, ether, and water, but its solu- 
tion in the latter rapidly changes into a semi- 
solid crystalline mass of hydrate of chloral, 
soluble in a larger quantity cf water. Chloral 
boils at 203°, and has a specific gravity of 
1.502. 

4277. To Obtain Chloral. Place an- 
hydrous alct)hol in a tubulated retort, and 
pass d:y chlorine gas through it, at first in 
the cold, but afterwards with the application 
of a gentle heat. As soon as the chlorine 
passes undecomposed through the liquor at 
the boiling temperature^ the process is com- 



plete. On cooling, the liquid in the retort 
solidifies, formiag a crystalline mass of hydra- 
ted chloral. This must be melted by gentle 
heat, and agitated with thrice its volume of 
oil of vitriol, when, on increasing the heat a 
little, an oily stratum of impure chloral will 
rise to the surface. This must be removed, 
boiled for some time, to drive off some free 
hydrochloric acid and alcohol, and next dis- 
tilled with an equal volume of oil of vitriol ; 
lastly, it must be rectified from finely-pow- 
dered quicklime, stopping the process as soon' 
as the surface of the lime becomes dry. The 
chloiine is best introduced by a tube inserted 
into the tubulature of the retort, and a long 
tube, bent upwards, should be connected with 
the beak to convey away the hydrochloric 
acid gas extricated, and to allow the volatil- 
ized alcohol and chloral to condense and flow 
back into the retort. 

4278. To Purify Hydrate of Chloral. 
There is perhaps scarcely a liquid in which 
chloral hydrate is insoluble at ordinary tem- 
perature ; four parts of it dissolve gradually 
in one part of water, the solution crystallizes 
at 32° Fahr., but not in well-formed crystals. 
Alcohol and ether dissolve it to such an ex- 
tent that it likewise does not crystallize well 
on evaporating these solvents ; absolute al- 
cohol must be excluded, because it combines 
with chloral. Chloroform and benzole are 
well adapted for recrystaUization, but the 
first is too dear, and the last cannot be entire- 
ly removed from the crystals. The same 
holds good for most other liquid solvents, but 
uniformly satisfactory results are obtained 
with bisulphide of carbon ; 45 parts cf it dis- 
solve at C0° to 65° Fahr., but 1 part chloral 
hydrate; it precipitates ethereal and alcoholic 
solutions of the latter. But at temperatures 
below the boiling of bisulphide of carbon, 4 
to 5 parts of it are sufficient for dissolving 1 
part chloral hydi'ate. If allowed to cool 
slowly, beautiful crystals, often an inch in 
length, are obtained, easily collected, and 
readily freed from the last traces cf the sol- 
vent by exposing them in thin layers to the 
air. (Fluckiger.) 

4279. Sulphuric Ether — also called 
oxide of ethyl — is a colorless, transparent, 
very limpid fluid, having a penetrating and 
agreeable smell and a burning taste. 

4280. To Obtain Sulphuric Ether. 
Put 2 pounds rectifled spirit into a glass re- 
tort, and add 2 pounds sulphuric acid ; place 
the retort on a sand-bath, and apply heat so 
that the liquor may boil as quickly as possi- 
ble, and the ether pass into a receiver cooled 
by ice or water; continue to distill until a 
heavier fluid begins to pass over ; then lower 
the heat, add another pound cf spirit, and 
distni as before. Mix the distilled liquors to- 
gether, pour off" the supernatant portion, add 
1 ounce carbonate of potassa (previously igni- 
ted), and agitate occasionally for one hour;| 
finally, distill the ether from a large ret()rt,( 
and keep it in a well-stoppered bottle. This 
ether should have a specific gravity cf .750. 

It is recommended to mix only a portion of 
the alcohol at first with the acid, and as soon 
as it reaches boiling point (about 280° Fahr.), 
add the remainder only fast enough to re- 
place the fluid as it distills over ; also not to 
allow the heat to exceed 286", 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



399 



Another method is, to heat the sulphuric 
acid to 280°, and then introduce the alcohol 
in a fine stream, by means of a tube "vnth a 
fine lower orifice, introduced through a cork 
fitted to the mouth of the retort; a ther- 
mometer being adjusted in a similar manner, 
so that its bulb is immersed in the contents 
of the retort. By this means the danger of the 
heat rising above 28G° is obviated. 

4281. Stronger Ether. Officinal JEther 
Fortior. Take 3 pints each of ether and water ; 
shake them thoroughly together in a bottle ; 
and, when the water has subsided, separate 
the ether from it, and agitate it well with 1 
troy ounce each of chloride of calcium and 
lime, both in fine powder. After standing for 
24 hours, decant the ether into a retort, with 
a Liebig's condenser, connected with a receiver 
surrounded by ice-cold water, and distill 1^ 
pints stronger ether, which should be of a 
specific gravity not exceeding ,728. 

4282. To Purify Ether. Ordinary ether 
is purified by first agitating it with 2 or 3 times 
its volume of distilled water containing a few 
grains of carbonate of potassa, or a few drops 
of milk of lime ; and, after decantation, again 
agitated with a like quantity of water only. 
This may be used for inhalations. The washed 
ether is afterwards digested on chloride of cal- 
cium to deprive it of retained moisture. 

4283. Cautions About Ether. The 
vapor of ether is very inflammable, and when 
mixed with atmospheric air it forms a vio- 
lently explosive mixture. The density of 
this vapor is 2.586, that of ah* being 1, hence 
it rapidly sinks, and frequently accumulates 
in the lower parts of buildings, especially cel- 
lars which are badly ventilated. Every crack, 
every joint in the floors of rooms, the space 
beneath doors, &c., offer a road for the pass- 
age of this vapor, which, though invisible, as 
surely runs out of every orifice, and finds its 
level, as a stream of water would do. The 
only remedy is thorough ventilation. Many 
serious accidents have arisen from this cause ; 
a light carried where such vapor is present 
causes an explosion. 

4284. Ozone Ether. By agitating ether 
in a flask with binoxide of barium, adding 
gradually perfectly pure and very dilute 
hydrochloric acid, occasionally cooling and 
subsequently allowing the ether to settle, 
we obtain a liquid which has been recom- 
mended as a disinfecting, bleaching, and 
cleansing agent, and as a test for chromic 
acid, which it instantly turns indigo blue. 
According to Boettger, this does nof contain 
ozone, but binoxide of hydrogen, which is 
equivalent to it. 

4285. Tests for the Purity of Ether. 
Pure ether should be neutral to test paper; 
vaporize totally when exposed to the air ; 
when shaken in a graduated tube with half its 
volume of a concentrated solution of chloride 
of calcium, its volume should not be lessened ; 
water should dissolve only -jV its volume of 
ether, and remain transparent. Dry carbon- 
ate of pota*>a or tannin shaken with ether in 
a test-tube will become moist or foim a syrupy 
solution, in case any water is present. The 
presence of alcohol is shown by shaking the 
ether with water, its solubility in water being 
the greater in direct proportion to the quan- 
tity of alcohol which it contains. 



4286. To Find the Percentage of 
Ether in a Mixture of Ether and Al- 
cohol. By ascertaining the specific gravity 
at C0° Fahr. of a mixture of ether and alcohol, 
the following table will give the percentage 
of absolute ether contaiaed in the mixture : 



Table 


OF Percentage of Ether. 


Spec. Grav. 


Per cent. 


Spec. Grav. 


Per cent. 


0.7198 


100 


,7673 


65 


.7246 


95 


.7636 


60 


.7293 


90 


.7701 


55 


.7343 


85 


.7772 


50 


.7397 


80 


.7840 


45 


.7455 


75 


.7880 


40 


.7514 


70 







4287. Nitric Ether. Take 50 parts nitric 
acid, specific gravity 1.375, dissolve in it 2 or 
3 parts nitrate of urea, and add 50 parts alco- 
hol. Distill until | of the whole has passed 
over ; agitate the distillate with a little water 
to separate the ether, and preserve the heavier 
portion. It has a specific gravity of 1.112 ; 
its vapor is explosive when strongly heated, 
consequently great care is necessary in the 
distillation, to keep the heat down to the low- 
est working point, and to distill only small 
quantities at a time. (Millon. ) (See directions 
for Sulphuric Ether, in No. 4280.) 

4288. Nitrous Ether. Mtrous or hypo- 
nitrous ether has a pale yellow color, boils at 
62° Fahr. ; at 60° its specific gravity is .947 ; 
it is very volatile. Take starch, 1 part ; nitric 
acid, specific gravity 1.30, 10 parts ; alcohol of 
85 per cent., 2 parts ; water, 1 part ; introduce 
the starch and acid into a capacious retort 
connected with a wide tube 2 or 3 feet long, 
bent at right angles, and terminating near the 
bottom of a two-necked bottle, containing the 
alcohol and water mixed together, and sur- 
rounded with a freezing mixture or very cold 
water. The other neck of the bottle must be 
connected by a wide and long glass tube, with 
a good refrigerator or condenser. The heat of 
a water-bath must be cautiously applied to 
the retort, when pure hyponitrous acid will be 
set free, and, passing into the alcohol, wiU form 
hyponitrite of oxide of ethyl (ether), which 
will distill in a gentle stream. The tube con- 
necting the retort and bottle must be cooled 
by means of a rag or moist paper, wetted from 
time to time with ice-cold water ; for if the 
tube and the alcohol be not carefully cooled, 
the latter becomes spontaneously hot, and 
boils violently, when the product is vitiated. 
This process is very productive and economi- 
cal, and yields perfectly pure hyponitrous 
ether. (Liebig.) 

4289. Sweet Spirit of Nitre. This is 
an alcohoUc solution of mtrous ether. The 
mixture should have, according to the U. S. 
Pharmacopoeia, a specific gravity of .837. It 
becomes acid by age. 

4290. Hydrochloric Ether. This is 
the chloride of ethyl, and is distilled in a 
retort, from rectified spirit of wine saturated 
with dry hydrochloric acid gas. (Thenard 
directs equal volumes of concentrated hydro- 
chloric acid and absolute alcohol.) The re- 
tort is connected with a Wolffe's apparatus, 
the first bottle of which should be two-thirds 
full of tepid water (70° to 75° Fahr.), and the 



4=00 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



remainder surrounded with salt and ice. To 
render it perfectly anhydrous, it must be 
digested on a few fragments of fused chloride 
of calcium. (Coolej/.) 

4291. Acetic Ether. This is a color- 
less fluid, and bears a considerable resem- 
blance to sulphmic ether, of which it is 
strictly an acetate. Liebig assigns it a speci- 
fic gravity of .89 at 60° Fahr., dissolving in 7 
times its i3ulk of water ; TTre gives it a specific 
gravity of .866 at 45°, dissolving in 8 parts 
water. It is decomposed by allvalies and 
strong acids. (Cooleij.) It is also called 
acetate of etliyJ. 

4292. To Obtain Acetic Ether. Mix 
together 3 parts acetate of potassa (or an 
equivalent quantity of acetate of soda {see No. 
80), 3 parts 85 per cent, alcohol, and 2 parts 
strongest oil of vitriol. Distill them in a 
glass retort or earthenware still, connected 
with a well-cooled receiver ; agitate the pro- 
duct with a little water, to remove undecom- 
posed alcohol, then digest it with a little chalk, 
to remove acidity, and afterwards with fused 
chloride of calcium, to absorb water. Lastly, 
rectifv by a gentle heat. (Foicues.) 

4293. To Prepare Butyric Ether. 
This is the pine-apple oil of commerce ; and, 
largely diluted with rectified spirit, is the 
pine-apple essence used for flavoring. It is 
prepared from crude butyiic acid saponified 
with caustic potassa, and the resulting soap 
distilled along with alcohol and oil of vitriol. 
It is sparingly soluble in water, very soluble 
in alcohol ; boils at 230°. It is also called 
tutyrate of ethyl. 

4294. Benzoic Ether. A colorless oily 
liquid, slightly heavier than water, aromatic 
in taste and odor. It boils at 410° Fahr. It 
is prepared as foUows: Take 4 parts 90 per 
cent, alcohol, 2 parts crystallized benzoic acid, 
and 1 part concentrated muriatic acid ; distill 
them together, and, as soon as the product 
turns milky when mixed with water, change 
the receiver and collect the subsequent distil- 
late ; add water to it, decant the ether from 
the sm-face of the water, and boil it with 
water and a little oxide of lead (to separate 
the benzoic acid) ; lastly, free it from water 
by allowing it to stand over chloride of 
calcium. Benzoic ether is also called denzo- 
ate of ethyl. 

4295. Formic Ether — also called fo?-- 
viiate of ethyl, is a limpid, aromatic fluid, 
lighter than water; soluble in 10 parts of 
that fluid ; has a specific gravity of .915, and 
boils at 130° Fahr. To obtain it, mix in a 
retort, with a well-cooled receiver, 7 parts 
dry formiate of soda, 10 parts oil of vitriol, 
and 6 parts 90 per cent, alcohol. The greater 
part will distill over by the heat spontaneous- 
ly developed, after which the heat of a water- 
bath may be appHed. Purify it by agitation, 
first with milk of lime, and afterwards with 
chloride of calcium. (Cooley.) 

4296. (Enanthic Ether — named also 
oenanthylate of ethyl, and jpelargonic ether 
{see No. 1471) — is colorless, and has a power- 
ful intoxicating vinous odor. Its specific 
gravity is .862, and boils at 480° Fahr. It is 
obtained towards the end of the distillation 
of fei-mented liquors, especially wines, and 
purified by agitation with a weak solution of 
carbonate of potassa. {Cooley.) This ether 



has the odor of quince, and dissolved in a due 
proportion of alcohol, forms quince essence. 

4297. Chloric Ether. This is synony- 
mous with chloroform. Medicinal chloric 
ether consists of 1 part chloroform in 8 parts 
rectified spirit. 

4298. Ethyl. This is a colorless, in- 
flammable gas, of a specific gravity a little 
over 2 (air standard). Under a pressure of 
2|- atmospheres, at 37.5 Fahr., it assumes the 
form of a colorless ethereal liquid. It forms 
the basis of ether, which is oxide of ethyl ; 
and of alcohol, which is the hydrated oxide 
of ethyl ; its usefulness lays chiefly in its com- 
pounds with acids. The following are the 
principal ones in use, and will serve as a guide 
for the preparation of most of the others. 

4299. Acetate of Ethyl. Heat together 
in a retort, 3 parts acetate of potassium, 3 
parts strong alcohol, and 2 parts oil of vitriol. 
The distilled product is mixed with water to 
separate the alcohol; digested first with a 
little chalk, and afterwards with fused 
chloride of calcium; lastly, it is rectified. 
A fragrant, limpid liquid, having a density of 
.890, and boiling at 165° Fahr. {Fownes.) 

4300. Valerianate of Ethyl. Pass 
dry hydrochloric acid gas through an alcoholic 
solution of valerianic acid. Its odor resembles 
butyric ether. 

4301. Amyl. This is the basis of the 
fusel oil compounds; fusel oil being the 
oxide of amyl. It is a colorless, ethereal 
liquid, boiling at 311° Fahr. Like ethyl, its 
acid compounds are most used. {See No. 
1440.) 

4302. Acetate of Amyl. Mix together 
1 part fusel oil and 2 parts dry acetate of po- 
tassa (potassium — Foicnea) ; add 1 part con- 
centrated sulphuric acid, and distill. Purify 
the distillate by washing it with a dilute solu- 
tion of potassa, and again distill it from dry 
chloride of calcium. {Cooley.) Acetate of 
amyl, diluted with alcohol, forms the essence 
of Jargonelle or Bergamot pear. 

4303. Valerianate of Amyl. Mix 
carefully 4 parts fusel oil with 4 parts sul- 
phuric acid ; when cold, add 5 parts valerianic 
acid. TTarm the mixture for a few minutes 
in a water-bath, then mix it with a little 
water, which causes the ether to separate. 
Purify this by washing it with water, and a 
weak solution of carbonate of soda. An al- 
coholic solution of valerianate of amyl consti- 
tutes apple essence. 

4304. Methyl. This is the basis of me- 
thylic alcohol or pyroxylio spirit, forming 
compounds with the acids, analogous to those 
of ethyl. 

4305. Valerianic Acid. A volatile, 
fatty acid, obtained by distilling valerian root 
along with water, and acting on the pro- 
duct with caustic potassa, when valerian- 
ate of potassa is formed, and a volatile oil is 
separated; by evaporating to dryness, the 
latter is dissipated, and the dry mixture, 
treated with dilute sulphuric acid and distilled, 
yields an aqueous solution of valerianic acid. 
By careful redistillation it may be deprived 
of water. Yalerianic acid may also be pro- 
duced artificially, by heating fused potassa 
along with the oil of potato, or com spirit, 
when valerianate of potassa is obtained, the 
acid of which is identical in all respects with 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



4r01 



that obtained from the root of valerian. 
(Liebig.) It is colories>!, limpid, oleaginous; 
boils at 270° Fahr.; soluble in alcohol and 
ether, and in 80 parts of water ; smells strongly 
of valerian ; "vdth the bases it forms salts 
called VALERIANATES, most of -which are solu- 
ble. 

4306. Succinic acid. This is obtained 
by mixing coarsely powdered amber with an 
equal weight of sand, and distilling it by a 
gradually increased heat ; the product is puri- 
fied by pressing it between bibulous paper, to 
remove the oil, and then subliming it. It 
forms colorless, inodorous crystalline scales, 
soluble in 5 parts cold or 2h parts boiling 
water ; is fusible and volatile without decom- 
position. (Coolei/.) 

4307. Aldehyd-Aminonia. Take sul- 
phuric acid, 6 parts ; water, 4 parts ; alcohol of 
80 per cent., 4 parts ; peroxide of manganese 
in fine powder, 6 parts. Dilute the acid with 
the water, then carefully add the alcohol, and 
next the manganese ; agitate and distill with 
a gentle heat, from a spacious retort into a 
receiver surrounded with ice, and connected 
with the former perfectly air-tight, "^hen 6 
parts have distilled, re-distill this portion 
from its own weight of dried chloride of cal- 
cuim until 3 parts have come over, which 
must be again rectified in the same manner, 
until Ih parts of liquid are obtained in the 
receiver. This liquid must then be mixed 
■with an equal bulk of ether, and the mixture 
saturated with dry ammoniacal gas ; brilliant 
colorless prismatic crystals will form, which, 
after washing with ether and drying, are pure 
aldehyd-ammonia. It smeUs like tm-pentine ; 
melts at 160° Fahr. ; volatilizes, unchanged, 
at 212°; decomposed by exposm-e to the air; 
soluble in most menstrua except ether. 

4308. Aldehyde. Dissolve 8 parts 
aldehj-d-ammouia in 8 parts water ; place the 
solution in a retort, and add 7 parts sulphuric 
acid, diluted with about half its weight of 
water ; then distill as directed in last receipt. 
Rectify the product twice from its ovm weight 
of dried muriate of lime, at a heat not exceed- 
ing 86° Fahr. It is an ethereous liquid, boil- 
ing at 72° ; neutral, inflammable, mixed with 
water, alcohol, and ether ; decomposed by ex- 
posure to the air, into liquid acetic acid; 
spoils by age. 

4309. Sulphuret of Carbon. A color- 
less, pungent, foetid liquid, exceedingly vola- 
tile and combustible. It exceeds all substan- 
ces in refractive power. In dispersive power 
it exceeds aU fluid substances except oil of 
cassia. It produces intense cold by its evapo- 
ration. A spirit thermometer, having its bulb 
covered with cotton, if dipped into this fluid 
and suspended in the air, rapidly sinks from 
60° to 0°, and if put into the receiver of an 
air-pump it will fall to — 81°. Mercury may 
be readily frozen in this way. 

4310. To Prepare Sulphuret of Car- 
bon. Heat together in a close vessel 5 parts 
bisulphuret of iron, and 1 part well dried 
charcoal ; or transmit the vapor of sulphur 
over fragments of charcoal heated to redness 
in a porcelain tube. In either case the result- 
ing compound should be carried ofi" as soon as 
formed, by means of a glass tube plunged 
into pounded ice, beneath which it will col- 
lect. It may be afterwards freed from adher- 



ing moisture and sulphur by distilling it at a 
low temperature from chloride of calcium. 

4311. Bisulphide or Bisulphuret of 
Carbon. This is used iu the arts as a sol- 
vent for India-rubber, gutta percha, &c. To 
procure it, Mulder recommends the following 
process as the most convenient. Provide an 
iron bottle (a quicksilver bottle answers very 
well), and make a second opening into it. To 
one opening adapt a copper tube bent twice 
at riglit angles; and to the other a straight 
tube dippiug into the bottle. Having nearly 
filled the bottle with pieces of charcoal (re- 
cently heated to redness), and having screwed 
on tiie bent and straight tubes, place the 
bottle in a furnace, closing the mouth of the 
latter with a stone or clay cover in two pieces, 
hollowed in the centre so as to fit the upper 
part of the bottle, and defend it from the 
action of the fire. Connect the curved tube 
with a Wolfi"e's bottle half-filled with water, 
and placed in a freezing mixture ; and when 
the iron bottle is sufficiently heated, introduce 
by the straight tube fragments of sulphm-, 
and immediately close the mouth of the tube 
with a plug. The bisulphuret, as it comes 
over, falls to the bottom of the water. Sepa- 
rate it ft'om the water, and distill over dry 
chloride of calcium. 

4312. Terpine. Leave oil of turpentine 
for a long time in contact with a mixtm^e of 
nitric acid and alcohol. Crystals of tei-pine 
form. By boiling an aqueous solution of ter- 
pine with a small quantity of sulphuric or 
other acid, terpinole is formed, and may be- 
separated by distillation. It has the odor of 
hyacinths. 

4313. Sugar Resin. Mix 16 parts strong 
sulphuric acid with 8 of the strongest nitric 
acid ; when cooled to 70° Fahr., stir in 1 part 
of fiiiely-powdered sugar. In a few seconds, 
when the sugar has become pasty, take 
it out of the acid and plunge it into cold 
water. Add more sugar to the acid, and 
proceed as before. Wash the resinous matter 
carefully, and dissolve it in alcohol or ether. 
Evaporate the solution with a gentle heat. 
It is very combustible. Its solution may be 
used to render gunpowder, lucifer matches, 
&c., waterproof. 

4314. Alum ini zed Charcoal. This is 
recommended by Dr. Stenhouse as a cheap 
and very efficierit decolorizing agent. Dis- 
solve in water 54 parts of the sulphate of 
alunfina of commerce, and mix with 922 parts 
of finely powdered wood charcoal. When the 
charcoal is saturated, evaporate to dryness, 
and heat to redness in covered Hessian cruci- 
bles till the water and acid are dissipated. 
The charcoal contains just 7-J per cent, of 
anhydrous alumina. 

4315. Styrol. Mix 20 parts of storax 
with 7 of carbonate of soda, and put them 
into a retort with water, and apply heat. A 
limpid fluid distills, which becomes, when 
heated to a certain point, a transparent solid. 

4316. Turpentine. An oleo-resin flow- 
ing from the tnink, after removing the bark 
of the pitch or swamp pine. It is viscid, 
transparent, and of the consistence of honev. 

4317. Oil of Turpentine. Oil o^ 
spirits of turpentine is obtained by distilimg 
crude turpentine along with water. The re- 
mainder left in the still after distillation, is: 



4=02 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



resin. It congeals at 14^, and boils at 312° 
Falir. ; its specific gravity is about 870°. It 
is very inflammable, and l3ecomes resinous by 
exposure to the air, When purified, by 
j'edistilling with 3 or 4 times its volume of 
"^ater, it produces the campliene of com- 
merce. 

4318. Venice Turpentine. A liquid 
i-esin which exudes from the larch tree. The 
Yenice turpentine usually met with is a fac- 
titious article composed of 2 gallons oil of 
turpentine added to 48 pounds melted black 
resin. {Cooley.) 

4319. To Purify Turpentine. How- 
ever carefully the oil of turpentine may have 
been distilled, it always leaves, after evapora- 
tion, a disagreeable odor, firmly adhering to 
the goods that have been treated with it. 
The same is the case with benzine and the 
lighter petroleum oils. This may be ob- 
viated, according to Bremer, by distillation 
over tannin. Articles treated with oil of 
turpentine that has been distilled in this 
way, are heated to 150° Fahr., when they 
lose every trace of odor. Bremer adds that 
this preparation is less inflammable, cheaper, 
and more aa:reeable to the workman than ben- 
zine. 

4320. jsenzine. This is the name given 
in the TJnited States to one of the products 
distilled from petroleum, having a specific 
gravity of about .73, or 65° of Baume's light 
hydrometer. {See No. 1527.) It has not yet 
been frozen, and is dangerously volatile at 
all temperatures. {See No. 346.) Benzine 
scarcely attacks asphaltum or pitch, and 
cannot (like benzole), be converted by nitric 
acid into nitro-benzole. It is consequently 
useless for the preparation of aniline. Ben- 
zine consists of about 84 per cent, carbon and 
16 per cent, hydrogen. {See No. 440.) 

4331. Benzole. In 1825, Faraday dis- 
covered a peculiar liquid which was deposited 
by condensation by ordinary coal-gas, and 
gave it the name of bicarburet of hydrogen. 
Some years afterwards Mitscherlich, of Berlin, 
obtained the same liquid from benzoic acid, 
and proposed for it the name of benzine. 
Faraday objected to this name, as too similar 
to the distinctive names of the alkaloids, as 
strychnine, morphine, &c., and decided to caU 
it benzole. The French, however, adhered to 
Mitscherlich's name, and continue to caU it 
benzine, causing considerable confusion; as 
benzole, from coal-tar, is a diff'erent liquid 
from benzine, obtained from petroleum. {See 
No. 1527.) Benzole has a specific gravity of 
.85, and freezes at 37° Fahr ; it dissolves as- 
phaltum or pitch rapidly, is volatile at aU 
temperatures, but less so than benzine. Ben- 
zole can be converted by nitric acid into nitro- 
benzole, and, by further treatment, into ani- 
line. {See No. 2552.) It contains about 
92.5 per cent, of carbon, and 7.5 per cent, of 
hydrogen. 

4322. Nitro-Benzole. A yellowish, 
oUy fluid, tusoluble in water; boils at 415° 
Fahr., and has a specific gravity of 1.209; 
known also as essence of mirbane. The 
method of preparing it is as follows : Place 10 
parts fuming nitric acid in a tubulated retort 
capable of holding 3 times the quantity ; ap- 
ply beat sufficient to produce gentle ebullition. 
Insert a glass tube through the upper neck of 



the retort, and through it introduce by de- 
grees, a drop at a time, benzole (not benzine, 
see No. 4321), so long as nitrous vapors are 
evolved ; the liquid which passes into the re- 
ceiver being poured back from time to time 
into the retort. When the red vapors have 
ceased to rise, distill off" the excess of benzole, 
if any, from the acid. Then pour the contents 
remaining in the retort into 120 to 150 parts 
cold water, and let it stand for a few days, 
when the nitro-benzole will be found separa- 
ted at the lower part of the vessel. Decant 
the upper stratum of acid, wash the nitro- 
benzole with water, and keep it in stoppered 
bottles. This substance is used as a. factitioKS 
oil of bitter almonds, being, although poison- 
ous, far less so than the prussic acid of which 
the real article consists. {Hager.) 

4323. Urea. A crystalline, colorless, 
transparent substance, consisting of cyanate 
of ammonia. Fresh mine, gently evaporated 
to the consistence of a synip, is to be treated 
with its own volume of nitric acid at 24 deg. ; 
the mixture is to be shaken and immersed in 
an ice-bath to solidify the crystals of nitrate 
of urea; these are washed with ice-cold 
water, drained, and pressed between sheets of 
blotting paper. When they are thus separa- 
ted from foreign matters, they are to be dis- 
solved in water to which subcarbonate of pot- 
ash is added, whereby the nitric acid is taken 
up, and the urea set at liberty. This nev 
liquor is evaporated at a gentle heat, nearly 
to dryness ; the residue is treated with pure 
alcohol, which only dissolves the urea ; the so- 
lution is concentrated, and the urea crystal- 
lizes. {Tlienard.) 

Or: Mix 28 parts of perfectly dry ferro- 
cyanide of potassium with 14 parts of black 
oxide of manganese, both pure and in fine 
powder; then place them on a smooth iron 
plate, and heat them to a dull red, over a 
charcoal fire. When the mass begins to bum, 
it must be frequently stirred; after which 
cool and dissolve in cold water, filter, and add 
2O5 parts of dry sulphate of ammonia, and 
decant the clear from the precipitated sul- 
phate of potassa. Concentrate at a heat be- 
low 212°, again decant, evaporate to dryness, 
and digest in boiling alcohol of 80§ ; crystals 
of urea will be deposited as the solution cools. 
{Liebig.') 

4324. Nitrate of Urea. This may be 
prepared as in last receipt from urea ; or by 
saturating the artificial urea (Liebig's prepa- 
ration) with nitric acid. 

4325. Stearine. The solid portion of 
fats which is insoluble in cold alcohol. Pure 
strained mutton suet is melted in a glass flask 
with 7 or 8 times its weight of ether, and the 
solution allowed to cool ; the soft pasty mass 
is then transferred to a cloth, and is strongly 
pressed, as rapidly as possible, to avoid evap- 
oration; the solid portion is then dissolved 
again in ether, and the solution allowed to 
crystallize. The product is nearly pure. 

4326. Iodine. A chemical element 
found both in the animal, vegetable, and 
mineral kingdoms, but exists in greatest 
abundance in sea-weed. It is principally 
manufactured from the mother-waters of kelp. 
Iodine is usually met with under the form of 
semi-crystalhne lumpo, having a metallic 
lustre, or friable scales, somewhat resembling 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



4.03 



gunpowder. It has a greyisli-black color, a 
hot, acrid taste, and a disagreeable odor not 
much unlike that of chlorme. It fuses at 
225° Fahr., volatilizes slowly at ordinary tem- 
peratures, boils at 347°, and when mixed with 
water rapidly rises along with its vapor at 
212°. It dissolves in 7000 parts of water, and 
freely in alcohol and ether. It may be crys- 
tallized in large rhomboidal plates, by expos- 
ing to the air a solution of it inhydriodic acid. 
Iodine, like chlorine, has an extensive range 
of affinity ; with the salifiable bases it forms 
compounds termed iodides, iodurets, or hy- 
DRiODATES ; and it destroys vegetable colors. 

4327. To Obtain Iodine. Saturate the 
residual liquor of the manufacture of soap 
from kelp (or other iodine Ive) of a specific 
gravity ofS„374, heated to 230° Fahr., with 
sulphmic acid diluted with half its weight 
of water; cool, decant the clear, strain, and 
to every 12 fluid ounces add 1000 grains of 
black oxide of manganese, in powder; put 
the mixture into a glass globe, or matrass 
with a wide neck, over which invert another 
glass globe, and apply heat with a charcoal 
fire ; iodine will sublime very copiously, and 
condense in the upper vessel, which, as soon 
as warm, should be replaced by another; and 
the two globes thus applied in succession as 
long as violet vapor arises. It may be 
washed out of the globes with a little cold wa- 
ter. A thin disc of wood, having a hole in its 
centre, should be placed over the shoulder of 
the matrass, to prevent the heat from acting 
on the globular receiver. On the large scale, 
a leaden still may be employed, and receivers 
of stoneware economically substituted for 
glass ones. The top of the leaden still is usu- 
ally furnished with a moveable stopper, by 
which the process may be watched, and addi- 
tions of manganese or sulphuric acid made, if 
required. The addition of the sulphuric acid 
should be made in a wooden or stoneware 
basin or trough. To render the iodine pure, 
it should be dried as much as possible, and 
then resublimed in a glass or stoneware ves- 
sel. (Ure.) 

Or : Extract aU the soluble part of kelp by 
water, and crystallize the soda by evapora- 
tion ; to the mother-lye add oil of vitriol in 
excess, and boil the liquid, then strain it to 
separate some sulphur, and mix the filtered 
Hquor with as much manganese as there was 
oil of vitriol: on applying heat, the iodine 
sublimes in the form of greyish-black scales, 
with a metallic lustre. The boiling is con- 
ducted in a leaden vessel ; and a cylindrical 
leaden still with a very short head, and con- 
nected with 2 or 3 large globular glass rceiv- 
ers, is used for the subliming apparatus. Care 
must be taken to watch the process, and pre- 
vent the neck of the still becoming choked 
with condensed iodine. (Cooley.) 

4328. To Dissolve Iodine in Cod 
Liiver OH. To efi'ect this it is best to tritu- 
rate the iodine with half its weight of iodide 
of potassium, and to add gradually the oil so 
as to form a uniform mixture. After standing 
for a few hours aU the iodide will be found at 
the bottom of the flask, leaving the iodine in 
perfect solution, the oil having but little of 
its taste. ( Eymael. ) 

4329. Tests for Iodine. Free iodine 
may be recognized by — The violet color 



of its vapor. — Striking a blue color with 
starch ; this test is so delicate that water 
containing only TfroWr part of iodine acquires 
a perceptible blue tinge on the addition of 
starch. — Nitrate of silver causes a white pre- 
cipitate in solutions containing iodine. — It 
strikes a blue color with opium and narceine. 
Iodine in combination, as it exists in iodic 
acid and the iodates, does not strike a blue 
color with starch, without the addition of 
some deoxydizing agent, as sulphurous acid 
or morphia; and as it exists in the iodides, 
not until the base is satm*ated with an acid 
(as the sulphuric or nitric), when iodine being 
set free, immediately reacts upon the starch. 
An excess of either acid or alkali destroys the 
action of the test. By mixing the liquid con- 
taining the iodine with the starch and sul- 
phuric acid, and lightly pouring thereon a 
small quantity of aqueous chlorine, a very 
visible blue zone will be developed at the line 
of contact. (Balard.) Solutions containing 
iodates yield, with nitrate of silver, a white 
precipitate, soluble in ammonia ; the iodides, 
under the same circumstances, give a pale 
yellowish precipitate with nitrate of silver, 
scarcely soluble in ammonia ; a bright yellow 
one with acetate of lead ; and a scarlet one 
with bichloride of mercury. The iodates 
deflagrate when thrown on burning coals, 
but the iodides do not. The iodates may 
also be tested as iodides, by first heating 
them to redness, by which they lose their 
oxygen, and are converted into iodides. 

4330. Kelp. The alkaline ashes obtained 
by burning various kinds of sea- weed. 

4331. Galipot. A French term for that 
portion of turpentine which concretes on the 
trunk of the tree when wounded, and is re- 
moved during the winter. 

4332. Phosphorus. Phosphorus is a 
pale yeUow, semi-transparent, and highly com- 
bustible solid; specific gravity 1.77 (water 
standard) ; melts at 108° Fahr., and unites 
with oxygen, forming acids, and with the 
metals, forming phosphides or phosphurets. 
It is soluble in ether, naphtha, and the oils. 
From its great inflammability it can only be 
safely kept under water. In commerce it is 
always packed in tin cylinders, soldered air- 
tight. It is a powerful corrosive poison. The 
specific gravity of its vapor is 4.327 (air 
standard). 

4333. To Obtain Phosphorus. Ground 
bone-ash, 12 parts; water, 24 parts; mix to a 
pap in a large tub, and add in a slender stream 
(still stirring) oil of vitriol, 8 parts ; work weU 
together, adding more water if required ; in 
24 hours thin with water, agitate well, and, if 
convenient, heat the mixture in a leaden pan, 
and as soon as the paste has lost its granular 
character, transfer it into a series of tall casks ; 
largely dilute with water, and, after settling, 
decant the clear portion; wash the residue 
well with water, mix the clear liquids, and 
evaporate in a copper or lead pan, till the 
calcareous deposit (gypsum) becomes consid- 
erable, then cool, decant the clear, and drain 
the sediment on a filter ; evaporate the clear 
liquid to the consistence of honey (say to 4 
parts), add 1 part of powdered charcoal, and 
evaporate to dryness in an iron pot, or till the 
bottom of the latter becomes red hot ; the dry 
mixture, when cold, is put into earthen retorts 



4r04r 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



well covered with luting and properly dried, 
and heat is applied sideways rather than at 
the bottom, by means of an air furnace. The 
beak of the retort is connected with a copper 
tube, the other end of which is made to dip 
about i inch beneath the surface of lukewarm 
water placed in a trough or wide-mouthed 
bottle. The distilled product is purified by 
squeezing it through chamois leather under 
warm water, and is then moulded for sale by 
melting it under water heated to about 145° 
Fahr., plunging the wider end of a slightly 
tapeiing but straight glass tube into the 
water, sucking this up to the top of the glass, 
so as to warm and wet it, next immersing the 
end into the liquid phosphorus, and sucking it 
up to any desired height. The bottom of the 
tube being now closed with the finger, it is 
withdrawn, and transferred to a pan of cold 
water to congeal the phosphorus, which will 
then commonly fall out, or may be easily ex- 
pelled by pressure with a piece of wire. Keep 
it in places where neither light nor heat has 
access, in phials filled with cold water which 
has been boiled, to expel all air, and enclose 
the phials in opaque cases. 

4334. Baldwin's Phosphorus. Heat 
nitrate of lime till it melts ; keep it fused for 
10 minutes, and pour it into a heated iron 
ladle. "WTien cool, break it into pieces, and 
keep it in a closely-stoppered bottle. After 
exposure to the sun's rays, it emits a white 
light in the dark, 

4335. Canton's Phosphorus. Put cal- 
cined oyster shells in layers, alternately with 
sulphur, and heat strongly in a covered cruci- 
ble for an hour. This is also luminous in the 
dark after exposure to the sun. 

4336. Phosphorus Bottles. Put 12 
grains phosphorus with I ounce olive oil in 
a 1 ounce phial ; and place it, loosely corked, in 
a basin of hot water ; as soon as the phospho- 
rus is melted, remove the phial, cork it se- 
curely, and agitate it until nearly cold. On 
being uncorked it emits sufficient light in the 
dark to see the time by a watch, and will 
retain this property for some years if not too 
frequently employed. 

4337. To Coat Phosphorus with Cop- 
per. Dr. Siewert, of Halle, suggests a 
method by which the sticks can be kept, even 
in the light, without undergoing deteriora- 
tion. For this purpose, he takes advantage 
of the well-known property of phosphorus to 
reduce some metals from their solutions. The 
sticks of phosphorus are put into a cold satu- 
rated solution of the sulphate of copper. 
Presently they become coated with a deposit 
of metallic copper, and in this state resemble 
copper rods. They can now be removed to a 
bottle containing water, and will keep for 
years. When a stick is wanted for any pur- 
pose, on removing the metallic film, and scra- 
ping off a black deposit underneath it, the 
phosphorus will be found to have retamed its 
translucency, as if it had been freshly cast. 

4338. To Reduce Phosphorus to 
powder. Melt the phosphorus in a phial 
containing some fresh urine, or a solution of 
pure urea, by the heat of hot water, and agi- 
\ate until cold. Rectified spirit may be 
I. Bed instead of urine or urea. {Sec No. 1899.) 

4339. Phosphorescent Oil. Dissolve 
] grain phosphorus in 1 ounce olive oil in a 



test tube by the heat of hot water, or add a 
larger quantity to some oil of lavender, in 
which it will dissolve spontaneously. Keep 
in a close phial. 

4340. Pyrophorus. This is a teim 
given to substances which inflame spontane- 
ously when exposed to the air. When a smaU 
quantity of any of the powders given below 
is exposed to the air, it rapidly becomes hot 
and inflames. Their action is quicker in a 
damp atmosphere, or by the moisture of the 
breath. 

4341. Homberg's Pyrophorus. Stir 
equal parts of alum and brown sugar (or 3 
parts alum and 1 part wheat flour) in an 
iron ladle over the fire until dry ; then put it 
into an earthen or coated glass phial, and keep 
it at a red heat so long as flame is emitted ; 
it must then be carefuUy stopped up and 
cooled. 

4342. Hare's Pyrophorus. Lampblack, 
3 parts; burnt alum, 4 parts; carbonate or 
potash, 8 parts ; as above. 

4343. Gay Lussac's Pyrophorus. 
Sulphate of potash, 9 parts ; calcined lamp- 
black, 5 parts ; as last. 

4344. Goehel's Pyrophorus. Heat 
tartrate of lead red hot in a glass tube, and 
then heniieticaUy seal it. 

4345. Dextrine or Starch Gum. 
Heat 4 gallons water in a water-bath to be- 
tween 77° and 86° Fahr.; stir in li or 2 
pounds finely ground malt ; raise the temper- 
ature to 140°, add 10 pounds potato or other 
starch ; mix all thoroughly, raise the heat to 
158°, and keep it between that and 167° for 
20 or 30 minutes. "When the liquor becomes 
thin, instantly raise the heat to the boiling 
point, to prevent the formation of sugar. 
Strain the liquor, and evaporate it to dryness, 
as the dextrine will not keep long in a liquid 
form. Another method is to boil solution of 
starch with a few drops of sulphuric acid, fil- 
ter the solution, and add alcohol to throw 
down the dextrine. 

Or : Mix 500 parts potato starch with 1500 
parts of cold distilled water and 8 parts of 
pure oxalic acid; place this mixture in a suit- 
able vessel on a water-bath, and heat until a 
small sample tested with iodine solution does 
not produce the. reaction of starch. When 
this is found to be the case, immediately re- 
move the vessel from the water-bath, and 
neutralize the liquid with pure carbonate of 
lime. After having been left standing for a 
couple of days the liquor is filtered, and the 
clear filtrate evaporated upon a water-bath 
until the mass has become quite a paste, 
which is removed by a spatula, and, having 
been made into a thin cake, is placed upon 
paper and further dried in a warm place ; 220 
parts of pure dextrine are thus obtained. {See 
No. 2925.) 

4346. Albumen. A substance which 
enters largely into the composition of animal 
bodies. It is scarcely soluble in water, but 
dissolves readily by adding to the water a 
small portion of caustic soda or potassa. 
White of eg^ is a solution of albumen. 

4347. To Make Albumen. Expose 
the strained white of egg, or the serum of 
bullock's blood in a thin stratum, to a current 
of dry air, until it hardens into a solid tranS' 
parent substance. 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



405 



Or : Agitate strained -white of e^g with 10 
or 12 times its bulk of alcohol, and collect 
the flocculent precipitate on a muslin filter. 
Dry it at a temperature not over 120° Fahr. 

4348. Tests for Albumen. A solution 
of bichloride of mercury dropped into a fluid 
containing albumen, occasions a white preci- 
pitate. Tannin or tiuctm'e of galls gives a 
yellow, pitchy precipitate. 

4349. Sulphui-. Sulphur or Irimstone 
is usually of a pale yellow color ; melts to a 
clear, thin fluid, and volatile at about 232° 
Fahr., when it inflames spontaneously in the 
open air, and burns with a bluish flame. It 
is insoluble in water and in alcohol ; soluble in 
turpentine and fat oils, and freely so in bisul- 
phuret of carbon and hot liquor of potassa. 
"With oxygen it forms sulphmic and sulphur- 
ous acids, and with the metals it combines as 
SULPHURETS or SULPHIDES. Its spccific gravity 
is from 1.982 to 2.045 (water standard). The 
specific gravity of its vapor is 6.648 (air 
standard). 

4350. Amorphous or Brown Sul- 
phur. Prepared from subhmed sulphur by 
melting it, increasing the heat to 320° Fahr., 
and continuing it at that temperature for about 
30 minutes, or until it becomes brown and 
viscid ; it is then pom'ed into water. It is 
now ductile like wax, may be easily moulded, 
and when cooled does not again become fluid 
below 600° Fahr. 

4351. Precipitated Sulphur. Sub- 
limed sulphur, 1 part; dry slacked lime, 2 parts; 
water, 25 parts ; boil for 2 or 3 hours, dilute 
with 25 parts more water, filter, precipitate 
by muriatic acid, and drain ; well wash, and 
dry the precipitate. Eesembles sublimed sul- 
phur in its general properties, but is much 
paler, and in a finer state of division. 

4352. To Purify Precipitated Sul- 
phur. The precipitated sulphur of the shops 
contains about two-thirds of its weight of sul- 
phate of lime (plaster of Paris), owing to the 
substitution of sulphmic for muriatic acid in 
its preparation. This fraud is detected by 
heating a little of the suspected sample in an 
iron spoon or shovel, when the sulphur is 
volatilized, and leaves behind the sulphate 
of lime, which, when mixed with water and 
gently dried, gives the amount of the adul- 
teration. A still simpler plan is to dissolve 
out the sulphur with a little hot oil of turpen- 
tine or liquor of potassa. 

4353. RoU Sulphur. Crude sulphur, 
purified by melting and skimming it, is 
poured into cylindrical moulds. Common 
roll sulphur frequently contains from 3 to 7 
per cent, of yellow arsenic. 

4354. Sublimed Sulphur. Sometimes 
called Flowers of Sulphur. This is prepared 
by subliming sulphur in iron vessels. For 
medical pui-poses it is well washed with 
water and dried by a gentle heat. (Cooleij.) 
An aqueous solution of pure anhydrous car- 
bonate of soda will dissolve an appreciable 
quantity of flowers cf sulphur, by digesting 
for 10 hours at 212^ Fahr. (Pole.) 

4355. Sulphur Vivum. Crude native 
sulphur, or black sulphur, is of a grey or mouse- 
colored powder. The same names are given 
to the residuum in the subliming pots, after 
the preparation of flowers of sulphur ; it gen- 
erally contains arsenic. 



4356. Tersulphuret of Arsenic. The 

tersulphm-et or tersulphide of arsenic is a fine 
golden yellow substance in lumps or powder. 
It is found, ready formed, in nature, or is pre 
pared artificially by sublimation from arseni 
ous acid and sulphur. The artificial sul- 
phuret, King's Yellow, often contains 80 to 90 
per cent, of white arsenic. 

4357. Camphor. The camphor of com- 
merce is a natural production. It is princi- 
pally extracted from the laurel camphor tree, 
but it is also found in several other members 
of the vegetable kingdom. It is a white, semi- 
crystalline S'llid, very volatile at common 
temperatures , soluble in alcohol, ether, oils, 
and acetic acid, and slightly but sufficiently 
so in water to impart its characteristic smell 
and taste. The Chinese and Japanese extract 
the camphor by cutting the wood into smaU 
pieces, and boiling it with water in iron ves- 
sels — which are covered with large earthen 
capitals or domes — lined with rice straw. 
As the water boils, the camphor is volatilized 
along with the steam, and condenses on the 
straw, under the form of greyish granulations. 
In this state it is collected and transported to 
Europe, when it undergoes the process of re- 
fining into white camphor. To refine it, 100 
parts of crude camphor are mixed with 2 
parts each of quicklime and animal charcoal, 
and placed in a thin globular glass vessel 
sunk in a sand-bath. The heat is then cau- 
tiously applied, and the vessel gradually and 
carefully raised out of the sand as the sub- 
limation goes on. When this is completed, 
the whole is allowed to cool. If the process 
be conducted too slowly, or at a heat under 
375° Fahr., the product will be flaky, and con- 
sequently unsaleable, without remelting or 
subliming. 

4358. To Pulverize Camphor. Cam- 
phor may be beaten in a mortar for some 
time, without being reduced to powder, but 
if it be first broken with the pestle, and then 
sprinkled with a few drops of spirit of wine, 
it may be readily pulverized. By adding 
water to an alcoholic or ethereal solution of 
camphor, it is precipitated under the form of 
an impalpable powder of exquisite whiteness, 
which may be collected and spontaneously 
dried on a filter; the addition of a minute 
quantity of carbonate of magnesia to the 
water (say 1 drachm for each 16 ounces of 
camphor), before mixing it with the camphor 
solution, will prevent the powdered camphor 
from hardening again after drying. 

4359. Glycerine. This is a sweet, syrupy 
liqdd, formed during the saponification of oils 
and fats. Its various uses will be found em- 
bodied in their respective receipts. 

4360. To Obtain Commercial Gly- 
cerine. The sweet stearine liquor of the 
stearine manufacturers is used for this pur- 
pose. The lime contained in it is precipitated 
by a stream of carbonic acid gas, or by a solu- 
tion of carbonate of soda, carefully avoiding 
adding the latter in excess ; the liquor thus 
obtained is then boiled a little, filtered, and 
evaporated to a syrupy consistence. Glycer- 
ine is also obtained from the water and wash- 
ings left in the manufacture of lead or litharge 
plaster, by mixing them together, filtering, 
and submitting them to the action of a 
stream of sulphuretted hydrogen, which pre** 



4r06 



MISCELLANEOUS CHEMICALS. 



eipitates the lead; the clear liquid, after 
settling, is decanted, filtered, and evapora- 
ted to the consistence of symp, in a water- 
bath. 

4361. Solvent Power of G-lycerine. 
Klever gives the following parts of various 
chemicals soluble in 100 parts glycerine. 

PABTS. 

Arsenious acid 20 

Arsenic acid 20 

Benzoic acid 10 

BoracJcacid 10 

Oxalicacid 15 

Tannic acid 50 

Alum 40 

Carbonate of ammonia 20 

Muriate of ammonia 20 

Tartrate of antimony and potassa 5.50 

Atropia 3 

Sulphate of atropia 33 

Chloride of barium 10 

Brucia 2.25 

Sulphide of calcium 5 

Quinine 50 

Sulphate of quinine 6.70 

Tannate of quinia 25 

Acetate of copper 10 

Sulphate of copper 30 

Tartrate of iron and potassa 8 

Lactate of iron 16 

Sulphate of iron 25 

Corrosive sublimate 7.50 

Cyanide of mercury 27 

Iodine 1.90 

Morphia 45 

Acetate of morphia 20 

Mm-iate of morphia 20 

Phosphorus 20 

Acetate of lead 20 

Arseniate of potassa 50 

Chlorate of potassa 3.50 

Bromide of potassium 25 

Cyanide of potassium 32 

Iodide of potassium 40 

Arseniate of soda 50 

Bicarbonate of soda 8 

Borate of soda 60 

Carbonate of soda 98 

Chlorate of soda 20 

Sulphur 10 

Strychnia 25 

Nitrate of strychnia 4 

Sulphate of strychnia 22.50 

Urea 50 

Yeratria 1 

Chloride of zinc 50 

Iodide of zinc 40 

Sulphate of zinc 35 

4362. To Purify Glycerine. Commer- 
cial glycerine is rendered pm-e by diluting it 
with water ; it is then decolored with a little 
animal charcoal {see No. 1729), filtered, and 
evaporated to the consistence of a thin syrup, 
after which it is farther evaporated in a 
vacuum, or over sulphuric acid, imtil it ac- 
quu'es a specific gravity of 1.265. 

4363. To Purify Glycerine. Bottles 
sent out from wholesale and manufacturing 
houses, labeled, "Pure Glycerine," do not 
always contain what their labels declare. 
Some samples caUed pure are rich in lead, 
others contain chlorine, most are diluted with 
water, and the best is generally acid. It is 
necessary, therefore, to purify even the best 



samples by digesting them for several days 
with powdered chalk, allowing the latter to 
subside, and decanting. (Scliacht.) 

4364. Tests for the Purity of Glycer- 
ine. Pm-e glycerine has a neutral reaction, 
and on evaporation in a porcelain dish leaves 
only a very slight carbonaceous crust, while 
the'^impure'^has a much greater percentage of 
coaly matter. The pure article does not be- 
come brown when treated, drop by drop, with 
concentrated sulphuric acid, even after several 
hours; the impure becomes brown even when 
but slightly adulterated. Pure glycerine, 
treated with pure nitric acid and a solution of 
nitrate of silver, does not become cloudy,, 
while the impm'e exhibits a decidedly milky 
appearance. Sometimes the impure article 
becomes blackened with the sulphide of am- 
monium. Oxalate of ammonia produces a 
black clouding ; lime-water sometimes causes 
a milky discoloration. Pure glycerine, how- 
ever, constantly remains perfectly uncolored, 
and clear as water, the impure becoming col- 
ored to a greater or less extent. If a few 
drops are rubbed between the fingers, pure 
glycerine causes no fatty smell ; the contrary 
is the case with the impure, especially if a few 
drops of dilute sulphuric acid be introduced. 
(Koller.) (See No. 11^1.) 

4365. Gelatine. Animal jelly obtained 
by heat from the organic tissue of the bones, 
tendons, and ligaments, the cellular tissue, the 
skin, and the serous membranes in contact 
with water. Clue and size are coarse varie- 
ties of this substance, prepared from hoofs, 
hides, skins, &c.; and isinglass is a purer kind, 
prepared from the air-bladders and some other 
membranes of fish. Gelatine is insoluble in 
cold water, but dissolves with greater or less 
readiness on the application of heat, foiTuing 
a tremulous and transparent jeUy on cool- 
ing. It is insoluble in alcohol or ether, and 
is decomposed by strong alkali or acid. 

4366. To Obtain Gelatine from Bones. 
The bones of good meat form most excellent 
materials for making soups and gravies, as is 
well known to every good cook. In France, 
soup is extensively made by dissolving bruised 
bones in a steam heat of 2 or 3 days' continu- 
ance, and also by dissolving out the earthy 
part by digestion in weak muriatic acid, when 
a lump of gelatine is obtained, which, after 
being well washed with water, will dissolve 
by boiling, and is equal to isinglass for all the 
purposes of making soups and jellies. Proust 
has recommended the following process for 
making bone gelatines: Crush the bones 
small, then boil them for 15 minutes in a ket- 
tle of water, cool, and skim the fat ofi", which 
is fit for all common pm-poses. The bones 
are then ground, and boiled in 8 to 10 times 
their weight of water, of which that already 
used must fonn a part, until evaporated to 
one-half, when a very nutritious jelly is ob- 
tained. A copper vessel should not be used, 
as the jelly acts upon this metal. An iron 
digester is the most suitable. The bones of 
boiled meat are nearly as productive as those 
of fresh meat, but roasted meat bones scarcely 
afi'ord any jelly. 

4367. Bone Gelatine. The bones are 
boiled to remove the fat, then digested in di- 
luted muriatic acid till the earthy matter of 
the bone is dissolved. The gelatine, which 



TESTS OB REAGENTS. 



407 



retains the form of the bone, is washed in a 
stream of water, plmiged in hot water, and 
again in cold, to remove all remains of acid, 
and sometimes put into a solution of carbonate 
of soda. When well washed, it is dried on 
open baskets or nets. By steeping the raw 
gelatine in cold water, dissolving it in boiling 
water, evaporating the jelly, and cutting it 
into tablets, it may be dried and preserved in 
that form. 

4368. Nelson's Patent Gelatine. This 
is made from cuttings of the hides of cattle, 
and skins of calves. These, freed from hair, 
flesh, fat, (fee, are washed and scoured, then 
macerated for 10 days in a lye of caustic soda, 
and afterwards placed in covered vessels at a 
temperature of 60° to 70° Fahr. until they 
become tender ; then washed from the alkali, 
exposed to the vapor of burning sulphur until 
they become sensibly acid, dissolved in earthen 
vessels heated to 150°, strained, put into 
settlmg vessels heated to 100° or 120° for 
nine hours, the clear liquor drawn ofl" and 
poured on the cooling slabs to the depth of i 
an inch. When cold, the jelly is cut in 
pieces, washed tiU free from acid, redissolved 
at 85°, poured on slabs, cut up, and dried on 
nets. 

4369. Gelatine Wafers. Dissolve fine 
glue or isinglass in water, so that the solution, 
when cold, may be consistent. Pour it hot 
on a plate of glass (previously wanned with 
steam and slightly greased), fitted in a metal- 
lic frame whose edges are just as high as the 
wafers should be thick. Lay on the surface a 
second glass plate, also hot and greased, so as 
to touch every point of the gelatine while 
resting on the edges of the frame. By its 
pressure the thin cake is rendered unifoiTu. 
When the glass plates have cooled, the gela- 
tine will be solid, and may be removed. It is 
cut into discs of different sizes by means of 
proper punches. 

4370. Tests for Gelatine. Gelatine 
dissolved in water is recognized by forming a 
jelly on cooling; it is precipitated by alcohol; 
corrosive sublimate throws down a whitish, 
flocculent precipitate; a solution of tannin, 
or an infusion of galls, gives a curdy, yellow- 
ish-white precipitate, which, on being stirred, 
coheres into an elastic mass, insoluble in wa- 
ter, and, when dry, assumes the appearance of 
over-tanned leather. 

4371. Asbestos. A natural substance, 
resembling flax, capable of withstanding un- 
changed a considerable degree of heat; it 
may, therefore, be cleansed or purified by fire. 
It is also called Amianthus. 



Tests or Reagents. These are 
substances employed to determine the 
name or character of any other substance, or 
to detect its presence in compounds. They 
are used in both the solid and fluid state ; 
generally the latter, when they are known 
as liquid tests. Their application as reagents 
is called testing. For this purpose they are 
commonly added drop by drop to the liquid 
to be tested, contained in a test-tube or test- 
glass. A simple way of employing them is to 
place a few drops or a smaU portion of the 



liquid or substance for examination on a slip 
of common white glass, and to add to them a 
drop of the test liquid. By placing the glass 
over a sheet of white paper, the effect will be 
rendered more perceptible. 

A number of tests, not included here, refer- 
ring to substances which hold a prominent 
place in some special process, have been in- 
troduced in immediate connection ivith the 
description of those substances, and will be 
found in the index under the head of the arti- 
cle to be tested. 

4373. Test for Chicory in Coffee. 
Place a spoonful of ground coffee gently on 
the surface of a glass of cold water. The 
pure coffee will float for some time, and 
scarcely color the water ; the chicory, if any 
be present, rapidly absorbs the water and sinks 
to the bottom, communicating a deep reddish- 
brown tint as it falls. 

Or a spoonful of ground coffee may be 
placed in a small bottle of cold water, and 
shaken for a moment ; if the sample of coffee 
is pure, it will rise to the surface and hardly 
tinge the water, whilst if the coffee is adul- 
terated with chicory, the latter will fall to 
the bottom and color the water as before. A 
similar coloration of the water will be pro- 
duced, however, if the coffee be adulterated 
with burnt sugar, which is the basis of the so- 
called " coffee essences or extracts." 

4374. To Test Tea. Pure China tea is 
not turned black by being put into water im- 
pregnated with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, 
nor does it tinge spirit of hartshorn blue. 
The infusion is amber-colored, and is not 
reddened by adding a few drops of oil of vitriol 
to it. 

4375. To Detect Copper in Liquids. 
Spirit of hartshorn turns them blue. There- 
fore tea has not been dried on copper if an 
infusion of it is not turned blue by this mix- 
ture. Cider, being passed through brass 
pots, is detected by this experiment. 

4376. To Detect Watered Milk. The 
cheapest and easiest method of adulterating 
milk is by adding water, and we may readily 
ascertain tho exact extent of adulteration by 
the following plan. If a glass tube, dividend 
into 100 parts, be filled with milk and left 
standing for 24 hours, the cream will rise to 
the upper part of the tube, and occupy from 
11 to 13 divisions, if the milk is genuine. 

4377. To Detect Chalk in Milk. Di- 
lute the milk with water ; the chalk, if there be 
any, wiU settle to the bottom in an hour or 
two ; put to the sediment an acid, vinegar for 
instance, and if effervescence take place it is 
chalk. 

4378. To Detect Mineral Substances 
in Flour. The presence of a mineral adul- 
teration of flour or meal may be readily de- 
tected. A small quantity of the suspected 
flour is shaken up in a glass tube with chloro- 
foiTQ. All mineral adulterations wiU collect 
at the bottom, while the flour will float on 
the liquid. 

4379. How to Know Good Flour. 
When flour is genuine or of the best kind, it 
holds together in a mass when squeezed by the 
hand, and shows the impressions of the fin- 
gers, and even of the marks of the skin, much 
longer than when it is bad or adulterated; 
and the dough made with it is very gluey, 



4:08 



TESTS OB REAGENTS. 



ductile^ and elastic, easy to be kneaded ; and 
may be flattened and drawn in every direc- 
tion without breaking. 

4380. To Detect Adulterations in 
Sugar. Sugar is largely adulterated. Pure 
cane and beet sugars may be known by tbeir 
solutions bending the luminous rays in cir- 
cumpolarization to the right, whereas grape 
and fecula sugars bend it to the left. Pure 
cane sugar boiled in a solution of caustic po- 
tassa remains colorless, but if starch sugar is 
present the liquid turns brown. A filtered 
solution of 33 grains cane or beet sugar in 1 
ounce water, mixed with 3 grains pure caustic 
potassa, and then agitated with Ij grains sul- 
phate of copper in a close vessel, remains 
clear, even after the lapse of several days ; 
but if starch sugar is present, a red precipi- 
tate is formed after some time, and if present 
in considerable quantity the copper will be 
wholly converted into oxide within 24 hours ; 
the solution first turns blue or green, and. then 
entirely loses its color. Of late years moist 
sugar has been largely adulterated with the 
sweet waste liquor (solution of glycerine) of 
the stearine manufactories; but this fraud 
may be detected by its inferior sweetness, 
and by its moist and dirty appearance. 

4381. Test for Starch. The old and 
familiar test for starch is the blue color which 
free iodine produces when brought in contact 
with it ; but this is not the only reagent by 
means of which we can detect the presence of 
starch in combination with similar bodies. 
Bromine is nearly as good as iodine, and 
tannin is said, in some instances, to be better. 
A solution of 50 grains tannin in i pint dis- 
tilled water will answer for making the test. 
A drop of this tannin solution will cause a 
precipitate in extremely dilute solutions of 
starch; the precipitate dissolves when 
warmed and reappears when the solution 
cools ; and where the starch paste is old, the 
reaction is said to be more sensitive than 
that of iodine. 

4382. To Test Arrow-Root. Genuine 
arrow-root is odorless and tasteless, and pro- 
duces a sort of crackling noise when pressed 
or rubbed, and emits no peculiar odor when 
mixed with muriatic acid. Stirred up in a 
mortar with double its weight of a mixture of 
equal parts of aqua-fortis and water, it does 
not become gelatinous and adhesive in less 
than 15 minutes. 

4383. To Detect Arsenic in Colored 
Paper. Take a fragment of the paper and 
put it into a solution of ammonia. If arsenic 
be present the liquid will assume a bluish 
color. In case a further test is required, pour 
a little of the ammoniacal solution on crystals 
of nitrate of silver, and arsenic, if present, 
will show itself by leaving a yellow deposit 
on the crystals. As arsenic is used in coloring 
aU qualities of paper, from the cheapest to 
the costliest, a knowledge of this test will be 
of service. 

4384. To Detect Gum Arabic in Gum 
Tragacanth. Make the gum into a clear 
mucilage, and filter carefully ; pour strong al- 
cohol upon it, and if it retains its solubility 
and transparency, no gum arable is present, 
but if it becomes opaque, or deposits a pow- 
der at the bottom, it contains gum arable or 
eome similar substance. 



4385. To Test Slates. The test of a 
superior slate is its ability to remain unbro- 
ken, after being made red hot in a fumaco 
and suddenly immersed in cold water while 
at that heat. 

4386. To Test Silver or Gold. For 
testing gold or silver, slightly wet the metal 
and rub gently with lunar caustic. If gen- 
uine gold or silver the mark will be faint ; but 
if an inferior metal it will be quite black. 

4387. To Test Mushrooms. The fol- 
lowing are said to be tests of the wholesome- 
ness of mushrooms : Sprinkle a little salt on 
the spongy part or gilfs of the sample to be 
tried : if they turn yellow, they are poison- 
ous ; if black, they are wholesome. 

False mushrooms have a warty cap, or else 
fragments of membrane adhering to the upper 
surface ; are heavy, and emerge from a vulva 
or bag ; they grow in tufts or clusters in 
woods, on the stumps of trees, &c. ; whereas 
the true mushrooms grow in pastures. 

False mushrooms have an astringent, 
styptic, and disagreeable taste; when cut 
they tm-n blue ; they are moist on the surface, 
and are generally of a rose or orange color. 

The gills of the true mushroom are of a 
pinky red, changing to a liver color ; the flesh 
is white ; the stem is white, solid, and cylin- 
drical. 

Introduce a silver spoon, or an onion, into 
a vessel in which mushrooms are seething ; if, 
on taking either of them out, they assume a 
dark, discolored appearance, the circumstance 
denotes the presence of poison existing among 
them; if, on the other hand, the metal or 
onion, on being withdrawn from the liquor, 
wears its natural appearance, the fruit may 
be regarded as genuine, and of the right 
sort. 

Eub the upper skin with a gold ring or any 
piece of gold : the part rubbed wiU turn yel- 
low if it is a poisonous fungus. 

4388. To Test the Hardness of 
"Water. Hard water contains more or less 
carbonate of lime ; the presence of this sub- 
stance in waters is tested thus : Soap, or a so- 
lution of soap in proof spirit, mixes easily and 
perfectly with ptn-e water, but is curdled and 
precipitated in water containing carbonates, 
chlorides, or sulphates. The degree of hard- 
ness of water depends on the amount of car- 
bonate of lime held in it in solution, and is 
ascertained as follows : Dissolve 1 drachm 
finest white soap in 1 pint proof spirit ; so ad- 
just the strength (if not already so) that ex- 
actly 32 measures are required to be added to 
100 measures of the standard solution of 
chloride of calcium (see No. 4786), before a 
lather can be produced. Every measure of 
this test solution of soap and alcohol, which is 
required to produce the same efiect on 100 
measures of a sample of hard water, represents 

1 grain of carbonate of lime or ^° of haidness ; 

2 measures equal 1° of hardness or 1 grain of 
carbonate per gallon, &c. 

4389. To Test the Purity of Borax. 
Its strength is best ascertained by the quanti- 
ty of sulphuric acid required to neutralize a 
given weight of borax. (See Alkalimetry.) 
The impurities in borax are common salt and 
alum, which are mixed with it to lower the 
value. 

Common salt may be detected by a solution 



TESTS OB REAGENTS. 



4.09 



of the borax in hot water yielding -with nitrate 
of silver a curdy white precipitate which is 
soluble in ammonia; this must be distin- 
guished from the white pulverulent precipitate 
of borate of silver which will he thrown down 
from pure borax. 

The presence of alum is determined by 
addition of ammonia water to a solution of 
the borax priving a bulky white precipitate. 

4390. To Test the Purity of Musk. 
Musk is often largely adulterated with dried 
blood, the presence of which may be detected 
by the inferiority of the odor ; by an assay 
for the iron contained in the blood ; or by 
microscopic examination. The ashes left 
after burning pure musk are neither red nor 
yellow, but grey, and should not exceed 6 per 
cent, of the amount burned. 

4391. To Test the Purity of Amber- 
gris. From the high price of the genuine 
ambergris, it is very frequently adulterated. 
"When quite pure and of the best quality it is 
nearly wholly soluble in hot alcohol and 
ether, and yields about 85 per cent, of the 
odorous principle (ambreine). It is also 
easily punctured with a heated needle, and on 
withdrawing it not only should the odor be 
immediately evolved, but the needle should 
come out clean, without anything adhering 
to it. 

4392. To Test Diamonds. If you 
have a doubtful stone, put it into a leaden or 
platinum cup, with some powdered fluor-spar 
and a little oil of vitriol; warm the vessel 
over some lighted charcoal, in a fireplace, or 
wherever there is a strong draught to carry 
away the noxious vapors that vrill be copi- 
ously evolved. When these vapors have 
ceased rising let the whole cool, and then stir 
the mixtm^e with a glass rod to fish out the 
diamond. If you find it intact it is a genuine 
stone ; but if it is false it will be corroded by 
the hydrofluoric acid that has been generated 
around it. A small paste diamond would dis- 
appear altogether under the treatment. This 
test is given by Massimo Levi, an Italian 
chemist. 

4393. Test for the Presence of Blood. 
Gunning has discovered in acetate of zinc a 
reagent that precipitates the slightest traces 
of the coloring matter of blood from solutions, 
even where the hquids are so dilute as to be 
colorless. Blood washed from the hands in a 
pail of water can readily be detected in this 
way. The flocculent precipitate thrown 
down by acetate of zinc must be washed by 
decautation, and finally collected on a watch- 
glass, and allowed to dry, when the micro- 
scope will readily reveal crystals if any blood 
be present. {See No. i'A\^.) 

4394. Test for the Presence of a Free 
Acid. Dissolve chloride of silver in just suf- 
ficient ammonia to make a clear solution. If 
a little of the test be added to ordinary spring 
water, the carbonic acid present in the latter 
will neutralize the ammonia and precipitate 
the chloride. The above forms a good lec- 
ture experiment, the test being a very delicate 
one. 

4395. Permanganate of Potassa as a 
Test for Organic Matter. As a test for 
organic matter in air and water, its accuracy 
has been called in question, on the ground 
that it does not attack all kinds of organic 



matter with equal facility~-some, as starch, 
resisting its action for a long time. It must 
be admitted, however, that it is, at present, 
the only practical test that we have, and cer- 
tainly shows very rapidly and clearly the 
presence of hurtful organic matter in water 
or in air. It can be applied by any one, it 
being only necessary to use a weak solution ; 
the disappearance of the color indicates the 
presence of organic matter. In time of epi- 
demics, such as cholera or dysentery, this 
test might be of much value in singling out 
the contaminated from the pure water. It is, 
perhaps, well also to recall the fact that this 
test forms the readiest means of purifying 
foul water. 

4396. Trommer's Test for the Pres- 
ence of Sugar in Urine. Put some of the 
suspected urine into a large test-tube, and 
add a few drops of solution of sulphate of 
copper, then sufficient solution of potash to 
render it strongly alkaline. If sugar be pres- 
ent, the precipitated oxide redissolves into a 
blue liquid, and on boiling red oxide of copper 
is precipitated. White merino that has been 
wet with a solution of bichloride of tin is said 
to form a ready test for sugar in urine, &c. 
A portion wet with the suspected liquor, and 
exposed to 260° to 300° of heat, becomes 
blackened if sugar is present. 

4397. duantitative Test for Sugar in 
Urine. Dissolve 400 grains pure crystalKzed 
sulphate of copper in 1600 grains of distilled 
water; add this gradually to a solution of 
1600 grains neutral tartrate of potash in a 
little water mixed with 6000 or 7000 grains 
solution of caustic soda of 1.12 specific grav- 
ity. Add water to make up the whole 11,544 
grain measures. 1000 grain measures are 
equivalent to 5 grains of grape sugar. 

4398. Pettenkofer's Test for Bile in 
Urine, &c. Put a small quantity of the sus- 
pected liquid into a test-tube, and add to it, 
drop by drop, strong sulphmic acid tfll it be- 
comes warm, taking care not to raise the 
temperature above 122° Fahr. Then add 
from 2 to 5 drops of syrup, made with 5 parts 
sugar to 4 of water, and shake the mixture. 
If the liquid contain bile, a violet coloration 
is observed. Acetic acid, and those substan- 
ces which are converted into sugar by sul- 
phuric acid, may be substituted for sugar. 

4399. To Detect Sulphur in Coal-Gas. 
The presence of sulphur in coal-gas can be 
proved in the following simple manner: 
Let a platinum basin be filled with a pint 
of water, and the basin be heated over a 
spirit lamp until all the liquid has evaporated ; 
the basin will be found to be coated on the 
outside, where it has been struck by the flame, 
with a dirty, greasy looking substance, which, 
on being washed off" with pure distilled water, 
and tested, proves to be sulphuric acid. The 
glass chimneys used with Argand gas-burners 
soon become coated over internally with a 
white substance, which, on being washed off 
with distilled water, will be found to be, on' 
testing, sulphate of ammonia. The glass 
panes of a room wherein gas is bm-ned for 
a few evenings consecutively', will, when rub- 
bed with the fingers of a clean hand, impart 
to it a substance which, on the hand being 
rinsed in distilled water, will yield a precipi- 
tate of sulphate of baryta with chloride ol 



4.10 



TEST PAPERS. 



barium, and a brick-red precipitate with po- 1 
tassio-iodide of mercury. 

4400. Test for Benzole. For distin- 
guishing genuine benzole, or that made of 
coal tar, from that prepared from petroleum, 
Brandberg recommends us to place a small 
piece of pitch in a testing tube, and pour 
over it some of the substance to be examined. 
The genuine will immediately dissolve the 
pitch to a tar-like mass, while that derived 
from petroleum will scarcely be colored. {See 
Nos. 4320 and 4321.) 

4401. To Detect Cotton in Linen. 
Unravel a piece of the fabric, both warp and 
weft, and plunge it into a solution of aniline 
and fuchsine. This will dye the whole red. 
Take it out, wash it, and while moist dip into 
ammonia ; the cotton threads will lose their 
color, while the linen will remain red. {See 
No 296, 4-c.) 

4402. Hahnemann's Testfor Lead in 
Wine. Take 1 ounce quick-hme, 1^ ounces 
flowers of sulphur; heat in a covered crucible 
for 5 or 6 minutes; take 2 drachms of this 
compound fwhich is sulphuret of lime), 2 
drachms tartaric acid; powder, mix, and 
shake in a stoppered bottle with a pint of 
water ; let it settle, pour off the clear liquid, 
and add la ounces tartaric acid. The above 
test will throw down the least quantity of 
lead from wines, as a very sensible black pre- 
cipitate. 

4403. Paris Test for Lead in Wine. 
Expose equal parts of sulphur and powdered 
oyster shells to a white heat for 15 minutes, 
and, when cold, add an equal quantity of 
cream of tartar ; these are to be put into a 
strong bottle, with common water, to boil for 
an hour, and the solution is afterwards to be 
decanted into ounce phials, adding 20 drops 
muriatic acid to each. Both the above tests 
will throw down the least quantity of lead from 
wines, as a very senible black precipitate. 
As iron might be accidentally contained in 
the wine, the muriatic acid is added, to pre- 
vent the precipitation of that metal. This 
acts in the same manner as Hahnemann's test. 
{See No. 4402.) 

4404. To Distinguish Artificially 
Colored Wines. As the real coloring mat- 
ter of wine is of difficult solubility in water 
free from tartaric acid, Blume proposes to 
make this fact of practical use in testing the 
purity of wine. A crumb of bread saturated 
in the supposed wine is placed in a plate of 
water ; if artificially colored, the water soon 
partakes of the color ; but if natural, a slight 
opalescence only will be perceptible after a 
quarter of an hour. 

4405. To Detect Logwood in Wine. 
M. Lapeymere, having observed that hsema- 
ttne, the coloring principle of logwood, gives 
a sky-blue color in the presence of salts of 
copper, proposes the following test for log- 
wood in wines: Paper is saturated with a 
strong solution of neutral acetate of copper, 
and dried. A strip of this is dipped into the 
Buspected liquor, and, after removal, the ad- 
hering drops are made to move to and fro 
over the paper, which is finally to be care- 
fully drie^d. If the wine contain logwood, the 
paper will assume a violet-blue color; but 
if the wine possess its natural coloring mat- 
ter the paper wUl have a grey tint. 



4406. To Detect Artificial Coloring 
in Wine. Use, as test liquid, a solution of 
potash and a solution of liquid ammonia and 
potash. 

If the wine is colored by the coloring 
matter of the grape, potash changes the red 
color to a bottle green or brownish- green ; am- 
monia changes the color to brownish-green or 
greenish-brown; a solution of alum to which 
some potash has been added gives a dirty 
grey precipitate. 

If the wine is artificially colored, potash 
gives the following colored precipitates: 
Dwarf elder, mulberry, or beet root give a 
violet precipitate ; pokeweed berries, a yellow; 
Indian wood, a violet red; pernambuco, a 
red; litmus, a violet blue ; orchil or cudbear, 
a dhty lees color. 

Or : Pour into the wine to be tested a so- 
lution of alum, and precipitate the alumina it 
contains, by adding potash, and the precipi- 
tates will have the same characteristic colors 
as above. 

4407. Test for Rum. Dr. Wiederbold 
proposes the following method for distinguish- 
ing between true rum and the factitious 
liquid sold under this name : Mix a little of 
the rum to be tested with about a third of its 
bulk of sulphuric acid, and allow the mixture 
to stand. If the rum is genuine its peculiar 
odor remains after the liquid has cooled, and 
even after 24 hours' contact may still be dis- 
tinguished. If, on the contrary, the rum is 
not genuine, contact with sulphuric acid 
promptly and entirely deprives it of all its 



Test Papers. These consist of 
paper which has been wetted thorough- 
ly and uniformly with a solution of some ap- 
propriate substance, dried and cut into conve- 
nient strips, and is used to test, by its change 
of color, the presence of some other substance 
known to produce that change. This is 
effected b;^ dipping a strip of the proper 
test paper into, or wetting it with, the liquor 
to be tested, and the effect noted. 

4409. Brazil-wood Test Paper. Made 
by preparing the paper with a decoction of 
Brazil-wood. Alkalies turn it purple or violet ; 
strong acids, red. 

4410. Buckthorn Test Paper. From 
a decoction of the berries; is reddened by 
acids. 

441 1 . Cherry-juice Test Paper. Fi-om 
the juice of cherries ; has the same properties 
as buckthorn paper. 

4412. Dahlia Test Paper. Made from 
an infusion of the petals of the violet dahlia 
(georgina purpurea); alkalies turn it green; 
acids, red ; strong caustic alkalies turn it 
yellow. This is a very delicate test paper. 
The juice of elderberries will make a similar 
test paper. 

4413. Indigo Test Paper. From a 
solution of indigo ; loses its color in contact 
with chlorine. 

4414. Iodide of Potassium Test 
Paper. From a solutien of it in distilled 
water ; turned blue by an acidulated solution 
of starch. 



FACTITIOUS MINERAL WATERS. 



4.11 



4415. Starch and Iodine Test Paper. 

Prepared by mixing starch paste with iodide 
of potassium ; turned blue by chlorine, ozone, 
and the mineral acids, and by the air contain- 
ing them. 

4416. Lead Test Paper. From a solu- 
tion of either acetate or diacetate of lead; 
used as a test for sulphuretted hydrogen and 
hydrosulphuret of ammonia, which turn it 
black. 

4417. Blue Litmus Test Paper. Trit- 
urate 1 ounce litmus in a wedgwood-ware 
mortar with 3 or 4 fluid ounces boiling water ; 
put the mixture into a flask, and add more 
boiling water until the liquid measures fully 
■^ pint ; agitate it frequently until cold, then 
filter it ; divide the filtered fluid into 2 equal 
portions, stir one portion with a glass rod 
dipped into very dilute sulphuric acid, repeat- 
ing this until the liquid begins to be very 
slightly tinged red, then add the other portion 
and mix them thoroughly. Prepare the paper 
with this infusion. Acids turn it red ; alka- 
lies, green. The neutral salts of most of the 
heavy metallic oxides redden this as well as 
the other blue test papers that are aflected by 
acids. 

4418. Red Litmus Paper. Treat the 
whole of a blue infusion, made as above, with 
the rod dipped in dUute sulphmic acid until 
it turns distinctly red. Alkalies, alkaline 
earths, and their sulphurets, restore its blue 
color; alkaline carbonates and the soluble 
borates produce the same efi'ect. Ked litmus 
paper may also be made by holding a strip 
of the blue litmus paper over a jar into which 
2 or 3 drops of muriatic (hydrochloric) acid 
have been thrown. 

4419. MaUow Test Paper. From an 
infusion of the purple flowers of the common 
mallow. 

4420. Manganese Test Paper. From 
a solution of sulphate of manganese ; turns 
black by contact with ozone. 

4421. Rhubarb Test Paper. From a 
strong infusion of the powdered root ; alkalies 
turn it brown, but boracic acid and its salts 
do not afiect it. 

4422. Rose Test Paper. Made with a 
strong infusion of the petals of the red rose ; 
alkalies turn it a bright green. 

4423. Starch Test Paper. From a 
cold decoction of starch ; free iodine turns it 
blue. 

4424. Sulphate of Iron Test Paper. 
Made with a solution of the protosulphate ; 
as a test for hydrocyanic acid and the soluble 
cyanides. 

4425. Turmeric Test Paper. Pre- 
pared with a decoction of 2 ounces turmeric 
to 1 pint water ; is turned brown by alkalies, 
and by boracic acid and the soluble borates. 

4426. Cabbage Test Paper. Make a 
strong infusion of red cabbage leaves, strain 
it, and evaporate it by a gentle heat till con- 
siderably reduced. Then dip the paper in it 
and dry it in the air. (This paper is of a 
greyish color; alkalies change it to green, 
acids to red. It is a very delicate test; if 
rendered slightly green by an alkali, carbonic 
acid will restore the color.) 

4427. Alkanet Test Paper. The red 
principle of the alkanet root (Anchusa tinc- 
toria, L.) is, as is well known, a most sensi- 



tive reagent for alkalies and acids ; it is used 
for the preparation of test paper, and is pre- 
pared like litmus paper, by saturating un- 
sized paper with a solution of the alkanet red. 
This is obtained by extracting dry alkanet 
root with ether ; the filtered liquid is ready 
for use. The blue paper may be obtained 
from the red one by dipping it in an aqueous 
solution of carbonate of soda of specific grav- 
ity 1.5, A paper, answering for both alka- 
line and acid test, may be prepared by 
dividing the ethereal solution of alkanet red 
into two equal parts; to one is added, drop 
by drop, a watery solution of car})onate of 
soda, until the red just has changed to a dis- 
tinct blue hue ; then both liquids are mixed 
and used for the preparation of the paper. 
This, when dried, has to be kept in tightly 
closed bottles. 

4428. Test Paper from HoUyhock 
Flowers. Some years ago Prof. Aiken, of 
the University of Maryland, proposed paper 
stained with an infusion of the petals, as a sub- 
stitute for litmus paper. His althtea paper is 
purplish-blue when dry ; acids impart a car- 
mine hue, which is turned to bluish-green by 
alkalies, the neutral tint being purplish-blue ; it 
is superior in intensity of reaction to turmeric, 
and quite equal to litmus, and is not afi"ected 
by light, as is the case with the latter. The 
alkaline reaction is produced in natural or 
atmospheric waters ; and the presence of ni- 
trites, which change the red paper to purple, 
is indicated in greater dilution than with io- 
dide starch. 

4429. Ozonometer. This name has 
been given to paper prepared with a mixed 
solution of starch and iodide of potassium. 
It is white, but is turned blue by ozonized air 
when exposed to it in a slightly moistened 
state. This test is sufficiently delicate to 
detect the presence of ozone m the atmo- 
sphere. 



Factitious Mineral Wa- 
ters. These are the imitations of 
difierent celebrated springs, whose waters 
have more or less medicinal properties ; they 
are prepared by addmg to pure water the in- 
gredients which the original spring water is 
found, by chemical analysis, to contain. Un- 
der this class are also included the ordinary 
aerated or carbonated waters, which are known 
as soda waters. The majority, whether plain 
or medical, are charged with carbonic acid gas 
by the powerful apparatus employed by man- 
ufacturers of soda waters {see No. 718) ; the 
gas being evolved by the action of weak sul- 
phuric acid on marble chalk, whiting, cSrc. 
Some few obtain their carbonic acid gas by 
the action of an acid and an alkali introduced 
into the bottle, and instantly corked. The 
quantity of gas introduced is usually about 5 
times the volume of the liquid. In making 
chalybeate and sulphuretted water, the water 
should be previously boiled, to expel all air 
ftom it. 

4431. Simple Aerated Water. Car- 
bonic acid gas water. "Water charged with 
five or more volumes of carbonic acid gas, by 
means of a suitable apparatus. {See No. 718.) 



4rl2 



FACTITIOUS MINERAL WATEBS. 



4432. Alkaline Aerated "Waters. 

Aerated soda and potash waters should be 
inade by dissolvmg 1 drachm of the carbon- 
ated alkali in each pint of water, and charging 
it strongly with carbonic acid gas. The soda 
water usually offered for sale contains little 
'or no soda. 

4433. Aerated Magnesia "Water. 
This is a solution of magnesia of various 
strengths, charged with carbonic acid gas in 
the same manner as other aerated waters. 

4434. Murray's Fluid Magnesia may 
be thus made: To a boiling solution of 16 
ounces sulphate of magnesia in 6 pints water, 
add a solution of 19 ounces crystallized car- 
bonate of soda in the same quantity of water; 
boil the mixture till gas ceases to escape, stir- 
ring constantly; then set it aside to settle; 
pour off the liquid, and wash the precipitate 
on a cotton or linen cloth, with warm water, 
tm the latter passes tasteless. Mix the pre- 
cipitate, without drying it, with a gallon of 
water, and force carbonic acid gas into it 
under strong pressure, till a complete solution 
is effected. The Eau Magnesienne of the 
French Codex is about a third of this strength; 
and some fluid magnesias prepared in this 
country are not much stronger. Dinneford's 
preparation is similar to the above. 

4435. Carbonated liime-Water — Car- 
rara Water. Lime-water (prepared from 
lime made by calcining Carrara marble) is 
supersaturated, by strong pressure, with car- 
bonic acid, so that the carbonate of lime at 
first thrown down is redissolved. It contains 
8 grains carbonate of lime in 10 fluid ounces 
water. 

4436. Aerated liithia "Water. This 
may be conveniently made from the fresh pre- 
cipitated carbonate, dissolved ia carbonated 
water, as directed for fluid magnesia. Its 
antacid and antilithic properties are found 
useful. 

4437. Baden "Water. Muriate of mag- 
nesia, 2 grains ; muriate of lime, 40 grains ; 
muriate of iron, J grain (or 3 minims of the 
tincture); muriate of soda, 30 grains; sul- 
phate of soda, 10 grains; carbonate of soda, 
1 grain ; water, 1 pint ; carbonic acid gas, 5 
volumes. 

4438. Carlsbad "Water. Dissolve 8 
grains of muriate of Kme, 1 drop of tincture 
of sesquichloride of iron, 50 grains of sulphate 
of soda, 60 grains of carbonate of soda, 8 
grains of muriate of soda, in one pound of 
"water. 

4439. Carlsbad "Water. Muriate of 
lime, 8 grains ; tiacture of muriate of iron, 1 
drop ; sulphate of soda, 50 grains ; carbonate 
of soda, 60 grains ; muriate of soda, 8 grains ; 
carbonated water, 1 pint. 

4440. Congress "Water. Take com- 
mon salt, 7f ounces; hydrate of soda, 23 
grains ; bicarbonate of soda, 20 grains ; and 
calcined magnesia, 1 ounce. Add the above 
ingredients to 10 gallons of water, and charge 
with gas. 

4441. Eger "Water. Carbonate of soda, 
5 grains ; sulphate of soda, 4 scruples ; muri- 
ate of soda, 10 grains ; sulphate of magnesia, 
S grains; muriate of lime, 5 grains; carbonated 
water, 1 pint. 

Or it may be made without apparatus thus : 
Bicarbonate of soda, 30 grains; muriate of 



soda, 8 grains ; sulphate of magnesia, 3 grains; 
water, 1 pint ; dissolve and add 1 scruple dry 
bisulphate of soda, and close the bottle imme- 
diately. 

4442. Ems Water. Carbonate of soda, 
2 scruples ; sulphate of potash, 1 grain ; sul- 
phate of magnesia, 5 grains; muriate of soda, 
10 grains ; muriate of lime, 3 grains ; carbon- 
ated water, 1 pint. 

4443. Kissingen Water. Mix together 
bicarbonate of soda, 1 drachm ; carbonate of 
lime, 8 scruples; precipitated carbonate of 
u-on, 2 scruples; common salt, 8 ounces; 
muriate of ammonia, 4 grains; sulphate of 
soda, 8 scruples; sulphate of magnesia, 2 
ounces ; phosphate of soda, 13 grains ; phos- 
phate of lime, 8 scruples. Add water, -J gal- 
lon. Let it stand half a day, filter, add car- 
bonate of magnesia, 10 scruples, and 10 gallons 
water. Lastly, charge with gas by means of 
the usual apparatus. {See No. 718.) 

4A4A. Marienbad Water. Carbonate 
of soda, 2 scruples; sulphate of soda, 96 grains; 
sulphate of magnesia, 8 grains; muriate of 
soda, 15 grains; muriate of lime, 10 grains; 
carbonated water, 1 pint. 

Or, bicarbonate of soda, 50 grains ; sulphate 
of soda, 1 drachm; muriate of soda, 15 grains; 
sulphate of magnesia, 10 grains ; dissolve in 
1 pint water, add 25 grains dry bisulphate of 
soda, and cork immediately. 

4445. Marienbad Purging Salts. Bi- 
carbonate of soda, 5 ounces; dried sulphate 
of soda, 12 ounces ; dry muriate of soda, 1-J- 
ounces; sulphate ofjnagnesia, dried, 2 oun- 
ces; dried bisulphate of soda, 2i ounces. 
Mix the salts, previously dried, separately, 
and keep them carefully from the air. 

4446. Pullna Water. Sulphate of 
soda, 4 drachms; sulphate of magnesia, 4 
drachms ; mmiate of lime, 15 grains ; muriate 
of magnesia (dry), 1 scruple; muriate of soda, 
1 scruple; bicarbonate of soda, 10 grains; 
water slightly carbonated, 1 pint. One of 
the most active of the purgative saline wa- 
ters, and deserving of wider popularity. 

It may be prepared without apparatus as 
follows : Bicarbonate of soda, 50 grains ; sul- 
phate of magnesia, 4 drachms; sulphate of 
soda, 3 drachms ; muriate of soda, 1 scruple ; 
dissolve in 1 pint of water; add, lastly, 2 
scruples bisulphate of soda, and close the bot- 
tle immediately. 

4447. Salts for Making Pullna Wa- 
ter. Dry bicarbonate of soda, 1 oimce ; sul- 
phate of soda, 2 ounces; sulphate of magnesia, 
1^ ounces ; muriate of soda, 2 drachms ; tar- 
taric acid, f ounce (or rather, bisulphate of 
soda, 1 ounce). AU the ingredients must be 
previously dried. 

4448. Pyrmont Water. Carbonate of 
lime, 12 grains; crystallized carbonate of soda, 
31 grains; sulphate of soda in crystals, 7^ 
grains ; sulphate of lime, 14 grains ; sulphate 
of magnesia, 20 grains ; sulphate of iron, 2 
grains ; chloride of sodium, 2 grains ; chloride 
of magnesium, 4 grains; chloride of mangan- 
ese, -gV grain ; water, 2 pints ; carbonic acid, 
5 volumes. Dissolve the sulphate of iron in 
part of the water ; dissolve the other soluble 
salts in the remainder of the water, add the 
insoluble salts to the solution, and charge it 
with the carbonic acid. Mix the two solnticais 
in a bottlcj and cork it immediately. 



FACTITIOUS MINERAL WATEBS. 



4rl3 



4449 Seidlitz "Water. This is usually 
imitated by strongly aerating a solution of 2 
drachms sulphate of magnesia in 1 pint of 
water. It is also made with 4, 6, and 8 
drachms of the salts to 1 pint of water, ac- 
cording to the strength required. 

4450. Seidlitz Powders. The common 
Seidlitz powders do not resemble the water. 
A closer imitation would be made by using 
effl(n-esced sulphate of magnesia instead of 
the potassio-tartrate of soda. A still more 
exact compound will be the following: Efflor- 
esced sulphate of magnesia, 2 ounces ; bicar- 
bonate of soda, 5 ou'nce; dry bisulphate of 
soda, ^ ounce ; mix, and keep in a close bot- 
tle. 

445 1 . Seidlitz Powders. Mix together 
thoroughly 1 troy ounce bicarbonate of soda, 
and 3 troy ounces Kochelle salt, both in fine 
powder, and divide into 12 equal parts. Di- 
vide 420 grains tartaric acid also into 12 equal 
parts. Put up the parts, severally, of the 
mixture and of the acid in separate papers, 
each kind of a distinctive color. ( U. S. Ph.) 
The alkaline mixture is usually put up in 
blue, and the acid in white papers. 

4452. Seidschutz Water. Sulphate of 
magnesia, 3 drachms; muriate of lime, nitrate 
of lime, bicarbonate of soda, of each 8 grains ; 
sulphate of potash, 5 grains ; aerated water, 1 
pint. 

4453. Seltzer or Selters Water. The 
seltzer water, as commonly sold, is prepared 
as follows : Prepare a solution of fused chlor- 
ide of calcium, 1 part in 9 of water (specific 
gravity should be 1.088 to 1.089) ; a solution 
of calcined carbonate of soda, 1 part in 10 of 
water (specific gravity 1.105) ; a solution of 
chloride of magnesium, by dissolving calcined 
magnesia at the rate of 20 grains in dilute 
hydrochloric acid to make 1 fluid ounce of 
saturation (specific gravity 1.08G); lastly, 
a solution of dry sulphate of soda in 10 parts 
water (specific gravity 1.092). These solu- 
tions are mixed with water in the following 
proportions : Solution of carbonate of soda, 
1000 grains ; solution of chloride of calcium, 
200 grains ; solution of chloride of magne- 
sium, 1.50 grains ; solution of sulphate of soda, 
20 grains ; added to 250 to 300 ounces (troy) 
of water, afterwards to be charged with car- 
bonic acid. 

4454. Seltzer Water. Muriate of lime 
and muriate of magnesia, of each 4 grains ; 
dissolve these in a small quantity of water, 
and add it to a similar solution of 8 grains 
bicarbonate of soda, 20 grains muriate of soda, 
and 2 grains phosphate of soda ; mix, and add 
a solution of J of a grain sulphate of iron; 
put the mixed solution into a 20-ounce bottle, 
and fill up with aerated water. An imitation 
of seltzer water is also made by putting into 
a stone seltzer bottle, filled with water, 2 
drachms bicarbonate of soda and 2 drachms 
citric acid in crystals, corking the bottle im- 
mediately. 

4455. Vichy Water. Sulphate of po- 
tassa, 2 drachms ; sulphate of soda, 4 scruples; 
phosphate of soda, 25 grains ; common salt, G 
irachms ; bicarbonate of soda, 5^ ounces ; car- 
bonate of ammonia, 10 grains. Mix. Add 
water, ^ gallon. Let it stand half a day; 
filter, add 10 gallons water, and charge with 
gas. 



4456. Vichy Water. Bicarbonate of 
soda, 1 drachm ; muriate of soda, 2 grains ; 
sulphate of soda, 8 grains ; sulphate of mag- 
nesia, 3 grains ; tincture of muriate of iron, 2 
drops; aerated water, 1 pint. Dorvault di- 
rects 75 grains of bicarbonate of soda, 4 
grains of chloride of sodium, -\ grain sulphate 
of iron, 10 grains sulphate of soda, and 3 
grains sulphate of magnesia, to a pint of 
water. By adding 45 grains (or less) of 
citric acid, an efFervescing water is obtained. 

4457. Vichy Water. Soubeirau, rely- 
ing on the analysis of Longchamps, imitates 
Yichy water by the following combination : 
Bicarbonate of soda, 135 grains; chloride of 
sodium, 2i grains; crystallized chloride of 
calcium, 12 grains; sulphate of soda, 11-J 
grains ; sulphate of magnesia, 3f grains ; tar- 
trate of iron and potash i grain ; water, 2^^ 
pints; carbonic acid, 305 cubic inches (10^ 
pints). Dissolve the salts of soda and iron in 
part of the water, dissolve and add the sul- 
phate of magnesia, and then the chloride of 
calcium in the remaining water. Charge 
now with the carbonic acid gas under pres- 
sure. 

4458. Vichy Salts. Bicarbonate of 
soda, I2 ounces; muriate of soda, 15 gi^ains; 
effloresced sulphate of soda, 1 drachm ; efflo- 
resced sulphate of magnesia, 1 scruple ; dry 
tartarized sulphate of iron, 1 grain; dry tar- 
taric acid, 1 ounce (or dry bisulphate of soda); 
mix the powders, previously dried, and keep 
them in a close bottle. 

4459. Sea- Water. Muriate of soda, 4 
ounces; sulphate of soda, 2 ounces; muriate 
of lime, i ounce; muriate of magnesia, 1 
ounce ; iodide of potassium, 4 grains ; bromide 
of potassium, 2 grains; water, 1 gallon. A 
common substitute for sea- water as a bath is 
made by dissolving 5 or 6 ounces of common 
salt in a gallon of water. 

4460. Dry Salt to Imitate Sea- Wa- 
ter. The following mixture of dry salts may 
be kept for the immediate production of a 
good imitation of sea-water. Chloride of 
sodium (that obtained from evaporating sea- 
water and not recrystallized, in preference), 
85 ounces; effloresced sulphate of soda, 15 
ounces ; dry muriate of lime, 4 ounces ; dry 
muriate of magnesia, 16 ounces ; iodide of po- 
tassium, 2 drachms ; bromide of potassium, 1 
grain. Mix and keep dry. Put 5 or 6 ounces 
to a gallon of water. 

4461. Balaruc Water. Muriate o^ 
soda, 1 ounce; mmiate of lime, 1 ounce; 
muriate of magnesia, i ounce; sulphate of 
soda, 3 drachms; bicarbonate of soda, 2 
drachms; bromide of potassium, 1 grain; 
water, 1 gallon. Chiefly used for baths. 

4462, Simple Siilphuretted Waters. 
Pass sulphm-etted hydrogen into cold water 
(previously deprived of air by boiling, and 
cooled in a close vessel), till it ceases to be ab- 
sorbed. 

4463. Aix-la-Chapelle Water. Bi- 
carbonate of soda, 12 grains ; muriate of soda, 
25 grains ; muriate of lime, 3 grams ; sulphate 
of soda, 8 grains ; simple sulphuretted water, 
22 ounces; water slightly carbonated, 17 5 
ounces. 

4464. Bareges Water. (Cauterets, 
Bagneres de Luchon, Bonnes St. Sauveur, 
may be made in the same manner.) Crystal- 



414r 



MEDICINAL TINCTURES. 



lized hydrosulphate of soda, crystallized car- 
bonate of soda, and chloride of sodium, of 
each 2i grains; water (free from, air), 1 pint. 
A stronger solution for adding to baths is thus 
made : Crystallized hydrosulphate of soda, 
crystallized carbonate of soda, and muriate of 
soda, of each 2 ounces; water, 10 ounces; 
dissolve. To be added to a common bath at 
the time of using. 

4465. Naples "Water. Crystallized car- 
bonate of soda, 15 grains; fluid magnesia, 

1 ounce ; simple sulphuretted water, 2 
ounces ; aerated water, 16 ounces. Intro- 
duce the sulphuretted water into the bottle 
last. 

4466. Harrogate "Water. Chloride of 
sodium, 100 grains; muriate of lime, 10 
grains; muriate of magnesia, 6 grains; bi- 
carbonate of soda, 2 grains ; water, 18| 
ounces. Dissolve and add simple sulphu- 
retted water, 1^ ounces. 

4467. Simple Chalybeate "Water. 
Water, freed from air by boiling, 1 pint; 
sulphate of iron, 5 grain. 

4468. Aerated Chalybeate "Water. 
Sulphate of iron, 1 grain ; carbonate of soda, 
4 grains ; water, deprived of air and charged 
with carbonic acid gas, 1 pint. Dr. Pereira 
recommends 10 grains each of sulphate of 
iron and bicarbonate of soda to be taken in a 
bottle of ordinary soda-water. This is equiv- 
alent to 4 grains of carbonate of iron. 

4469. Brighton Chalybeate. Sulphate 
of iron, muriate of soda, muriate of lime, of 
each 2 grains ; carbonate of soda, 3 grains ; 
carbonated water, 1 pint. 

4470. Bussang "Water. Dissolve from 
i to f grain of sulphate of iron, 2 or 3 grains 
carbonate of soda, 1 grain sulphate of magne- 
sia, and 1 of mmiate of soda, in a pint of 
aerated water. Forges, Frovins, and other 
similar waters can be imitated in the same 
manner. 

4471. Mont d'Or "Water. Bicarbonate 
of soda, 70 grains ; sulphate of iron, f grain ; 
muriate of soda, 12 grains ; sulphate of soda, 
•J grain; muriate of lime, 4 grains; muriate 
of magnesia, 2 grains ; aerated water, 1 pint. 
(See No. 4431.) 

4472. Passy "Water. Sulphate of iron, 

2 grains ; muriate of soda, 3 grains ; carbon- 
ate of soda, 4 grains ; muriate of magnesia, 2 
grains ; aerated water, 1 pint. 

4473. Pyrmont "Water. Sulphate of 
magnesia, 20 grains ; mmiate of magnesia, 4 
grains ; muriate of soda, 2 grains ; bicarbon- 
ate of soda, 16 grains; sulphate of iron, 2 
grains ; Carrara water, 1 pint. (See No. 4435.) 

4474. Mialhe's Aerated Chalybeate 
"Water. Water, 1 pint ; citric acid, 1 drachm ; 
citrate of iron, 15 grains ; dissolve, and add 
75 grains bicarbonate of soda. 

4475. Trousseau's Martial Aerated 
"Water. Potassio-tartrate of iron, 10 grains ; 
artificial Seltzer water, 1 pint. 

4476. Bouchardat's Gaseous Purga- 
tive. Phosphate of soda, li ounces ; carbon- 
ated water, 1 pint. 

4477. Mialhe's loduretted Gaseous 
"Water. Iodide of potassium, 15 grains ; 
bicarbonate of soda, 75 grains; water, 1 
pint; dissolve, and add sulphuric acid di- 
luted with its weight of water, 75 grains. 
Cork immediately. 



4478. Dupasquier's Gaseous "Water 
of Iodide of Iron. Solution of iodide of 
iron (containing 10 per cent, of dry iodide), 
30 grains ; syrup of gam, 2^ ounces ; aerated 
water, 17^ ounces. 



Medicinal Tinctures. 
These are solutions of the active 
principles of bodies, obtained by digesting 
them in alcohol more or less dilute. Ethereal 
tinctm-es are similar solutions prepared with 
ether. (See Nos.Zb, ^-c.) Where percolation 
is resorted to in the preparation of tinctures, 
the directions laid down in jSTo. 41 should be 
carefully followed to ensure success. 

4480. Tincture of Assafetida. Mace- 
rate 4 troy ounces assafetida in 2 pints al- 
cohol for 2 weeks, and filter through paper. 
(Z7. S.FIi.) 

4481. Tincture of Aconite Leaf. 
Take 4 troy ounces recently dried aconite leaf 
in fine powder ; moisten with 2 fluid ounces 
diluted alcohol ; pack it firmly in a conical 
percolator, and gradually pour diluted alcohol 
suflacient to displace 2 pints of tincture. 
(U. S.FJi.) 

4482. Tincture of Aconite Root. 
Take 12 troy ounces aconite root in fijie pow- 
der; moisten with 6 fluid ounces alcohol; 
pack it firmly in a cylindrical precolator, and 
gradually pour alcohol upon it until 2 pints 
of tincture are obtained. ( U. S. Fh.) 

4483. Tincture of Arnica. Take 6 
troy ounces of arnica flowers ; mix I5 pints 
alcohol and i pint water ; moisten the arnica 
slightly with this mixture, and bruise it 
thoroughly in a mortar. Then pack it firmly 
in a cylindrical percolator, and pour upon it 
first the remainder of the mixture, and after- 
wards sufficient diluted alcohol to make the 
tincture measure 2 pints. (U. S. Fh.) 

4484. Tincture of Belladonna. Moist- 
en 4 troy ounces recently dried belladonna 
leaf, in fme powder, with 2 fluid ounces dilu- 
ted alcohol ; pack it firmly in a conical per- 
colator, and gradually pour diluted alcohol 
upon it until 2 pints of tincture are obtained. 
(U. S. Fh.) 

4485. Tincture of Hemp. Dissolve 
360 grains purified extract of hemp in 1 pint 
alcohol, and filter through paper. ( U. S. 
Fh.) 

4486. Tincture of Capsicum. Moist- 
en 1 troy ounce capsicum, in fine powder, 
with 5 fluid ounce diluted alcohol; pack it ia a 
conical percolator, and gradually pour diluted 
alcohol upon it until 2 pints of tincture are ob- 
tained. (U. S. Fh.) 

4487. Tincture of Cinchona. Moisten 
6 troy ounces yellow cinchona, in moderately 
fine powder, with 2 fluid ounces diluted alco- 
hol ; pack it firmly in a glass percolator and 
displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints of tinc- 
ture. (U. S. Fh.) 

4488. Compound Tincture of Cin- 
chona. Take 4 troy ounces red cinchona, 3 
troy ounces bitter orange peel, 6 drachms 
serpentaria (Yinginia snakeroot), 3 drachms 
red Saunders, all in moderately fine powder ; 
and 3 drachms saflron in moderately coars« 
powder. Mis the powders, moisten with 4 



MEDICINAL TINCTURES. 



415 



uaid onnces dilnled alcohol, pack it firmly in 
A glass percolator, and displace, with diluted 
alcohol, 2i pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4489. Tincture of Hemlock. Moisten 
4 troy ounces recently dried hemlock, in fine 
powder, with 2 fiuid ounces diluted alcohol ; 
pack it firmly in a conical percolator, and 
gradually pour diluted alcohol upon it until 
2 pints of tincture are obtained. ( U. S. Ph. ) 

4490. Tincture of Digitalis. Moisten 
4 troy ounces recently dried digitaUs (fox 
glove), in fine powder, with 2 fluid ounces 
diluted alcohol ; pack it firmly in a conical 
percolator, and displace, with diluted alcohol, 
2 pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4491. Tincture of Iodine. Dissolve 1 
ounce iodine in 1 pint alcohol. ( U. S. Ph. ) 
Tincture of iodine may be readily prepared 
by placing the iodine in a glass funnel, having 
previously filled the neck with broken glass, 
and pouring on the alcohol as it passes 
through. To prevent evaporation, cover the 
funnel with a close-fitting glass top. Sjnrits 
of camphor may also be speedily made in this 
way. 

4492. Tincture of Turkey-Corn. 
Take 3 ounces powdered Turkey-corn root 
(corydalis) and make 1 pint tincture by mace- 
ration or displacement with diluted alcohol. 
(Am. Dis.) 

4493. Tincture of Yellow Jasmine 
(Gelseminum). Cut into small pieces 8 
ounces of the fresh root of yeUow jasmine 
(gelseminum); macerate for 14 days in 2 pints 
diluted alcohol, express and filter. This forms 
a saturated tincture. (Am. Dis.) 

4494. Universal Tincture. Bruise the 
following ingredients and digest for several 
days in 18 ounces brandy : 10 drachms aloes ; 
8 drachms each white agaric, rhubarb root, 
zedoary root, gentian root, galanga root, gum 
myrrh, and molasses electuary; 2 drachms 
saffron, and 4 ounces sugar. Express and 
filter. 

4495. Compound Tincture of Black 
Pepper. This is prepared with 30 parts 
capsicums ; 40 parts black pepper ; 15 parts 
each grains of paradise, cinnamon, ginger, 
and calamus ; 15 parts by measure acetate of 
potassa, and 60 parts alcohol. 

4496. Tincture of American Helle- 
bore. Moisten 16 troy ounces American 
Hellebore (veratrum viride), in moderately 
fine powder, with 4 fluid ounces alcohol. 
Pack it firmly in a cyhndrical percolator, 
and displace, with alcohol, 2 pints of tinc- 
ture. (U. S. Ph.) 

4497. Compound Tincture of Dew- 
berry. Take 4 ounces Dewberry (rubus 
trivialis) root, ^ ounce powdered Aleppo 
galls, 3 drachms powdered cinnamon, 10 
grains powdered capsicum, 1 drachm pow- 
dered cloves, and i ounce gum kino. Digest 
for 14 days in 2 pints best brandy. Filter, and 
add 1 ounce tincture of opium, 1 ounce essence 
of peppermint, and 1 pint white sugar. Dose, 
1 tea-spoonful for an adult. 

4498. Tincture of Skunk-Cabbage. 
Take 3 ounces skunk-cabbage root in powder, 
and 1 pint diluted alcohol. Make a tincture 
by maceration, or displace 1 pint from a per- 
colator. (Am. Dis.) 

4499. Tincture of Stramonium. Make 
1 pint of tincture from 2 ounces bruised stra- 



monium seed and diluted alcohol. (Am. Dis.\ 

4500. Tincture of Monesia. Take i 
part extract of monesia, 6 parts alcohol, and 
14 parts water. Mix and filter. (Am. Dis.) 

4501. Tincture of St. John's "Wort. 
Macerate for 14 days 5 ounces blossoms of St. 
John's wort, in 1 pint alcohol. Express and 
filter. (Am. Dis.) 

4502. Compound Tincture of Kino. 
Take 4 drachms each powdered opium, gum 
kino, and cochineal ; 3 drachms each camphor 
and cloves ; and 4 drachms aromatic spirits of 
ammonia. Macerate in 4 pints dilute alcohol. 
Express and filter. 

4503. Camphorated Tincture of Soap. 
There has been some difficulty in preparing 
this liniment as directed in the dispensatory, 
on account of its coagulating. The following 
formula makes a tincture which remains fluid 
at all temperatures. Take 4 ounces castile 
soap, 2 ounces camphor, ^ ounce oil of rose- 
mary, 16 ounces water, and 20 ounces 95 per 
cent, alcohol. 

4504. Tincture of Chloride of Iron. 
Introduce 3 troy ounces of iron wire, cut into 
pieces, into a flask of the capacity of 2 pints ; 
pour upon it 11 troy ounces muriatic acid, and 
allow the mixture to stand until eff"ervescence 
has ceased. Then heat it to the boiling point, 
decant the liquid from the undissolved iron, 
filter it through paper, and, having rinsed the 
flask with a little boiling distilled water, add 
this to it through the filter. Pom- the filtrate 
into a 4-pint capsule, add 6^ troy ounces 
muriatic acid ; and, having heated the mixture 
nearly to the boiling point, add li troy ounces 
nitric acid. 'WTien eff'ervescence has ceased, 
drop in nitric acid, constantly stirring, until it 
no longer produces eff'ervescence. Lastly, 
when the liquid is cold, add sufficient distlQed 
water to make it measure 1 pint, and mix it 
with 3 pints alcohol. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4505. Tincture of Guaiac. Reduce 6 
troy ounces guaiac to a moderately coarse 
powder, mix it with an equal bulk of dry sand, 
pack the mixture moderately in a conical per- 
colator ; and, having covered it with a layer 
of sand, gradually pour alcohol upon it until 
2 pints of tincture are obtained. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4506. Tincture of Black HeUebore. 
Moisten 4 troy ounces black hellebore in 
moderately fine powder, with 1 fluid ounce 
diluted alcohol. Pack it in a cylindrical per- 
colator, and gradually pour diluted alcohol 
upon it until 2 pints of tincture are obtained. 
(U. S. Ph.) 

4507. Tincture of Mandrake (Podo- 
phyllin). Make 1 pint of tincture from 3 
ounces mandrake-root in powder, with alcohol, 
either by maceration or percolation. (Am. 
Dis.) 

4508. Tincture of Clueen's Root 
(Stillingia). Take 3 ounces queen's root, 
bruised and cut into small pieces, and make 
1 pint with diluted alcohol, either by macera- 
tion or displacement. (Am. Dis.) 

4509. Tincture of Leopard's Bans 
(Arnica Flowers). Macerate 2 ounces 
arnica flowers in 1 pint dilute alcohol; or 
put the arnica-flowers in a percolator, and 
with diluted alcohol displace 1 pint. (Am. 
Dis.) 

4510. Tincture of Hops. Moisten 5 
troy ounces hops, in moderately coarse pow- 



4:16 



MEDICINAL TINCTURES. 



der, vith 2 fluid ounces diluted alcohol. 
Pack it very firmly in a cylindrical percolator, 
and displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints of 
tincture. (U. S. Fh.) 

4511. Tincture of Henbane. Moisten 
4 troy ounces henbane leaf, in fine powder, 
with 2 fluid ounces diluted alcohol. Pack it 
firmly in a conical percolator, and gradually 
pour diluted alcohol upon it until 2 pints of 
tinctura are obtained. (U. S. Ph.) 

4512. Tincture of Kino. Eeduce 6 
drachms kino to fine powder. Mix the pow- 
dered kino thoroughly with an equal bulk of 
dry sand ; introduce the mixture into a coni- 
cal glass percolator, and displace k piut of 
tincture, using a menstruum composed of 2 
parts alcohol and 1 part water, ( U. S. Ph. ) 

4513. Tincture of Lobelia. Moisten 4 
troy ounces lobelia, in fine powder, with 2 
fluid ounces diluted alcohol ; pack it firmly 
in a conical percolator, and displace, with di- 
luted alcohol, 2 pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4514. Tincture of Cimicifuga Race- 
mosa (Black Cohosh, or Black Snake- 
Root). Black cohosh root, in fine powder, 
4 troy ounces ; alcohol, 1 pint. Make 1 pint 
of tincture by maceration or displacement. 
(Jm. Dis.) 

4515. Norwood's Tincture of Vera- 
trum Viride (.A.merican Hellebore). 
Macerate 8 ounces of the recently dried, 
-coarsely powdered root, in 16 ounces of al- 
cohol for 14 days ; express and filter through 
paper. {Atn. Dis.) 

4516. Tincture of Chiretta. Macerate 
21 ounces (avoirdupois) chiretta, cut small 
and bruised, in 15 Imperial fluid ounces recti- 
fied spirit, for 48 hours. Then transfer to a 
percolator, pouring on 5 additional fluid oun- 
ces rectified spirit; press the residuum, and 
filter ; lastly, add rectified spirit to make up 
to 1 Imperial pint. (B. Ph.) 

4517. Tincture of Ergot. Take 5 
ounces (avoirdupois) ergot, and proceed in 
the same manner as for tincture of chiretta. 
(B. Ph.) 

4518. Tincture of Blue-Flag. Macer- 
ate 3 ounces powdered blue-flag in 1 pint al- 
cohol ; or, make 1 pint by percolation. ( J.w. 
Dis.) 

4519. Tincture of Lupulin. Pack 4 
troy ounces lupulin in a narrow cylindrical 
percolator, and gradually pour alcohol upon 
it until 2 pints of tincture are obtained. ( U. 
S. Ph.) 

4520. Tincture of Nux Vomica. Di- 
gest with a gentle heat, 8 troy ounces finely 
powdered nux- vomica in 1 piut alcohol, for 
24 hours in a close vessel. Then transfer the 
mixture to a cylindrical percolator, and grad- 
ually pour alcohol upon it until 2 pints of 
tincture are obtained. ( U. S. Ph. ) 

4521. Tincture of Tobacco. Take a 
convenient quantity of the expressed juice of 
fresh- gathered tobacco leaves; mix it with an 
equal quantity of rectified spirits, and filter 
the mixture. This tincture, diluted with half 
its weight of spirits of nitric ether, is a speci- 
fic for cramps or spasms of the bladder. For 
this purpose it is administered in doses of 10 
to 20 drops, at intervals of about 2 hours. 

4522. Tincture of Rhubarb. Mix to- 
gether 3 troy ounces rhubarb in moderately 
coarse powder; and ^ troy ounce cardamom 



in moderately fine powder; moisten with 1 
fluid ounce diluted alcohol, pack moderately 
in a conical percolator, and displace, with di- 
luted alcohol, 2 pints of tincture. ( If. S. Ph.) 
4523. Tincture of Rhubarb and 
Senna. Eeduce to a moderately coarse pow- 
der, 1 troy ounce rhubarb, 2 drachms senr a, 2 
drachms red saunders, 1 drachm each corian- 
der and fennel, k drachm each saffron £Jid 
liquorice, and 6 troy ounces raisins deprived 
of their seeds. Macerate for 14 days in 3 
pints diluted alcohol, and filter through paper. 
(U.S. Ph.) 

4524. Tincture of Bloodroot. Moisten 
4 troy ounces bloodroot (sanguinaria), in 
moderately fine powder, with 1 fluid ounce 
diluted alcohol ; pack it in a conical percola- 
tor, and displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints 
of tincture. (U. S. Ph.) 

4525. Tincture of Serpentaria. Moist- 
en 4 troy ounces serpentaria (Yirginia snake- 
root), in moderately fine powder, in 1 fluid 
ounce diluted alcohol. Pack it in a conical 
percolator, and gradually pour diluted alcohol 
upon it until 2 pints of tincture are obtained. 
(U. S.Ph.) 

4526. Tincture of Valerian. This is 
obtained in the same manner as the tincture 
of serpentaria. (See last formula.) (U. S. 
Ph.) 

4527. Camphorated Tincture of Opium. 
(Paregoric Elixir). This is a camphorated 
tincture of opium. Macerate 1 drachm each 
powdered opium and benzoic acid, 1 fluid 
drachm oil of anise, 2 ounces clarified honey, 
and 2 scruples camphor, in 2 pints diluted 
alcohol for 7 days, and filter through paper. 
(U. S.Ph.) 

4528. Cummings' €luick Method of 
Making Paregoric. Take pulverized opium, 
1 drachm ; camphor gum, 2 scruples ; benzoic 
acid, 1 drachm ; oil of aniseed, 1 fluid drachm ; 
clarified honey, 2 ounces ; hot water and alco- 
hol, 1 pint each. Dissolve the camphor and 
oil of aniseed in the alcohol; triturate the 
powdered opium in a mortar with some of the 
hot water for about 10 minutes, filter, and 
pass the remaining water through the dregs. 
To the fluid obtained add the alcoholic solu- 
tion of oil and camphor, and dissolve finally 
the honey and benzoic acid ia the mixture. 
By passing this once more through the pul- 
verized opium, the latter will become perfectly 
exhausted. The addition of 10 grains of santal 
gives the preparation a beautiful rich tint. 

4529. Tincture of Opium. (Lauda- 
num). Macerate 2^ ounces opium, in mode- 
rately fine powder, in 1 pint water for 3 days, 
with frequent agitation. Add 1 pint alcohol, 
and macerate for 3 days longer. Percolate, 
and displace 2 pints tincture by adding dilute 
alcohol in the percolator. ( U. S. Ph. ) 

4530. Ammoniated Tincture of 
Opium. Digest 6 drachms benzoic acid, 
6 drachms hay saffron, 4 drachms sliced 
opium, and 1 drachm oil of aniseed, in 1 
quart spirit of ammonia for a week, and 
filter. Stimulant, anti- spasmodic, and ano- 
dyne. Dose, 20 to 80 drops. 

4531. Squibb's Compound Tincture 
of Opium. This mixture is composed of 
tincture of opium, tincture of capsicum, 
spirit of camphor, each 1 fluid ounce; puri- 
fied chloroform, 3 fluid drachms ; and a suffi- 



MEDICINAL TINCTURES. 



4.17 



eient quantity of stronger alcohol to make 
the whole measure 5 fluid ounces. Each 
fluid drachm, or tea-spoonful, contains about 
100 drops, consisting of 12 minims of each of 
the flrst three ingredients, and 4^ minims or 
18 drops of chloroform. Dose, for persons 
over 18 years of age, a tea-spoonful ; 2 to 6, 
ten to thirty drops ; infants, one to ten drops, 
according to age. In time of epidemic cholera 
or diarrhea, when any person has two move- 
ments of the bowels more than natural within 
the twenty-four hours, the second one should 
be followed by a dose of this mixture; the 
dose to be repeated after every movement 
that follows. If the movements increase in 
frequency or in copiousness after the second 
dose of the medicine has been taken, a physi- 
cian should be sent for at once, and a double 
dose be taken after each movement, until he 
arrives. Immediately after taking the first 
dose, the person should go to bed, and remain 
there for twelve hours after the diarrhea has 
entirely ceased. 

4532. Compound Tincture of Pellitory. 
Take of bruised pellitory, 4 drachms; cam- 
phor, 3 drachms ; oil of cloves, 2 drachms ; 
powdered opium, 1 drachm; rectified spirit, 
6 fluid ounces ; digest for 8 days. The pro- 
duct is a most serviceable form of toothache- 
drops. 

4533. Ethereo-alcoholic Tincture of 
Pellitory for Tooth and Face-ache. Take 
of bruised pellitory, 1 ounce ; pure ether, 2 
fluid ounces ; strongest rectified spirit, 3 fluid 
ounces ; digest them together in a stoppered 
bottle, in a cool place, for a week, with fre- 
quent agitation, then express the tincture, but 
avoid filtration. Some persons use equal parts 
of ether and spirit, but the product does not 
then keep so well. An excellent remedy for 
tooth-ache and face-ache, often giving almost 
immediate relief in the former case. 

4534. Decoction of Balm of Gilead. 
For the decoction, simmer 1 ounce of the 
bud's in a quart of soft water, down to half a 
pint. Take a wine-glassful or more, when the 
cough is troublesome. 

4535. Tincture of Balm of Gilead. 
Infuse 2 ounces of the buds in a quart of 
good rum, and 4 ounces of sugar. Digest for 
4 days. Take 2 or 3 tea-spoonfuls at a time. 
It greatly relieves cough, pains in the chest, 
and other pulmonary affections. The tincture 
and decoction form excellent remedies for 
3ough, asthma, wheezing, &e. 

4536. Tincture of Prickly-ash Ber- 
ries. Macerate 8 ounces prickly-ash berries 
(Xanthoxylum) for 14 days in 2 pints diluted 
alcohol ; or, displace 2 ounces of tincture by 
percolation. This tincture possesses all the 
virtues of the berries. In cholera, the dose is 
from i to 1 fluid ounce, repeated as often as 
required ; in ordinary cases from 1 to 4 fluid 
drachms, given in water. {Am. Dis.) 

4537. Tincture of Aloes. Take 1 troy 
ounce socotrine aloes in fine powder, and 3 
troy ounces liquorice; macerate for 14 days 
in i pint alcohol and Ih pints distilled water, 
and filter through paper. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4538. Tincture of Aloes and Myrrh. 
Take 3 troy ounces each socotrine aloes and 
myrrh, both in moderately fine powder; 1 
troy ounce saffron in moderately coarse pow- 
der ; mix together, moisten with 2 fluid ounces 



alcohol, pack it moderately in a conical per- 
colator, and displace, with alcohol, 2 pints of 
the tincture. This tincture may also be pre 
pared by maceration for 14 days with 2 pints 
alcohol, and filtering through paper. ( U. S. 
Ph.) 

4539. Tincture of Cantharides. Uokt 
en 1 troy ounce cantharides, in fine powder, 
with 2 fluid ounce diluted alcohol; pack it in 
a conical percolator, and displace, with dilu- 
ted alcohol, 2 pints of tincture. (U. S. Ph.) 

4540. Tincture of Cardamom. Moist- 
en 4 troy ounces cardamom, in fine powder, 
with 2 fluid ounces diluted alcohol ; pack it 
firmly in a cylindrical percolator, and dis- 
place, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints of tincture. 
{U. S. Ph.) 

4541. Tincture of Castor. Macerate 
2 troy ounces bruised castor for 7 days in 2 
pints alcohol; express, and filter through 
paper. 

4542. Acetous Tincture of Valerian. 
Yalerian root, bruised, 4 ounces ; acetic acid, 
Ik ounces; diluted alcohol, U pints. Digest 
for 10 days in a closed vessel, and then filter. 
The tincture, as thus prepared, is of a beauti- 
ful red color with the predominating smell of 
the valerian — taste bitter and slightly astring- 
ent ; may be given in doses of a dessert spoon- 
ful every 3 hours. 

4543. Dover's Tincture. Pulverized 
ipecacuanha and opium, of each 8 grains ; di- 
luted alcohol, 1 fluid ounce. Macerate for 14 
days and filter ; or macerate 6 hours and dis- 
place 1 fluid ounce with diluted alcohol, 1 
fluid drachm; equivalent to 10 grains Do- 
ver's powder. Used in combination with spirit 
of Mindererus effervescing draught, and other 
anti-febrile remedies in liquid form. 

4544. Sweet Tincture of Red Bark 
(Cinchona). Red cinchona bark, in fine pow- 
der, 4 troy ounces ; strong alcohol and syrup, 
sufficient quantity ; dilute alcohol (alcohol 3 
parts to 1 part water), Ik fluid drachms. 
Moisten the ciuchona with the dilute alcohol, 
and pack in a glass funnel, in the neck of 
which sufficient tow (free from tar) has been 
placed, to act as a filter; cover the surface 
with a piece of perforated paper, and pour on 
alcohol previously mixed with an equal vol- 
ume of syrup until it has reached the tow and 
the surface of the powder is covered ; cork the 
neck of the funnel and allow it to macerate 48 
hours; then remove the cork and continue 
the percolation with equal parts of alcohol 
and syrup, mixed, until 16 fluid ounces have 
been obtained. 

4545. Sweet Tincture of Rhubarb. 
Take of rhubarb, bruised, and Hquorice root, 
bruised, of each 2 ounces; aniseed, bruised, 
and sugar, of each 1 ounce ; diluted alcohol, 
2 pints. Macerate for 14 days, express, and 
filter. 

4546. Aqueous Tincture of Rhubarb: 
Take of alkaline fluid extract of rhubarb, 3 
fluid ounces. {See No. 4591.) IS'eutral carlwn- 
ate of potassa, 240 grains ; cinnamon water, 4 
troy ounces; dissolve the carbonate in the 
cinnamon water ; add the fluid extract, and 
then sufficient water to make the whole weigh 
14 troy ounces. The above is an improve- 
ment on the preparation in the Prussian Ph., 
but are in officinal proportions, and yield a 
strictly officinal result. 



4.18 



FLUID EXTRACTS, 



4547. Tinctiire of Catechu. Take 3 
troy ounces catechu, and 2 troy ounces cin- 
namon, both in moderately coarse powder. 
Mix, and moisten with 1 fluid ounce diluted 
alcohol ; pack it into a conical glass percola- 
tor, and displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints 
of tincture. (U. S. Ph.) 

4648. Tincture of Cinnamon. Mix 2 
measures alcohol with 1 of water ; moisten 3 
troy ounces finely powdered cinnamon with 1 
fluid ounce of the mixture ; pack it in a coni- 
cal percolator, and displace with the mixture 
2 pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4549. Tincture of Colchicum. Moist- 
en 4 troy ounces colchicum seed, in moder- 
ately fine powder, with 1 fluid ounce diluted 
alcohol; pack it in a cylindrical percolator, 
and displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints of 
the tincture. (U. S. Ph.) 

4550. Tincture of Columbo. moisten 
4 troy ounces columbo, in moderately one 
powder, and percolate 2 pints tincture in the 
same manner as the colchicum in last formula. 
(U. S. Ph.) 

4551. Tincture of Cubeb. Percolate 2 
pints tincture from 4 troy ounces cubeb, fol- 
lowing the formula laid down for colchicum. 
(See No. 4549.) {U. S. Ph.) 

4552. Tincture of Tar. Macerate 2 
ounces tar in 16 ounces alcohol, until dis- 
solved. 

4553. Hamilton's Tincture of Dog- 
Wood. Bark of dogwood, 1 ounce ; rectified 
spirit, 12 fluid ounces ; mix, macerate for 14 
days, and filter. 

4554. Tincture of Colocynth. Colo- 
cynth, 8 parts ; star anise, 1 part ; alcohol, 96 
parts. Macerate for 3 days, and filter. Dose, 
15 to 20 drops. 

4555. Compound Tincture of Squills 
and Benzoin. This is also known as WedeVs 
Elixir. Taks of squills, orris root, and ele- 
campane, each 25 drachms ; liquorice root, 2 
drachms ; aniseed and myrrh, of each 4 scru- 
ples; saffron, 18 grains; dilute alcohol, 22 
fluid ounces. Macerate for 15 days, express 
and filter. Dose, 40 to 60 drops, in catarrh, 
asthma, &c. 

4556. Wood's Tincture of Kino. Kino 
in fine powder, 1^ ounces; alcohol (.835), 8 
fluid ounces ; water, 4 fluid ounces ; glycerine, 
4 fluid ounces. Mix the alcohol, water, and 

* glycerine together, and, having mixed the 
kino with an equal bulk of clean sand, intro- 
duce in a percolator and pour on the men- 
struum. This menstruum seems to thorough- 
ly exhaust the drug of its astringent principle, 
and also makes a nice-looking preparation 
that will not deteriorate by exposure. 

4557. Compound Tincture of Kino. 
This is made in the same way as other tinc- 

^ tures {see No. 35), with the following ingre- 
dients : 1 drachm each powdered opium, kino, 
and cochineal ; 1^ drachms each camphor and 
cloves; 1 fluid ounce aromatic spirit of am- 
monia, and 1 pint alcohol. 

4558. Tincture of Ginger. Moisten 8 
troy ounces ginger, in fine powder, with 2 
fluid ounces alcohol ; pack it firmly in a cylin- 
drical percolator, and displace, with alcohol, 2 
pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4559. Tincture of Jalap. Mix 2 mea- 
sures alcohol with 1 water; moisten 6 troy 
ounces jalap, in fine powder, with 2 fluid oun- 



ces of the mixture ; pack it moderately in a 
cylindrical percolator, and displace with the 
mixture 2 pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4560. Tincture of Myrrh. Take 3 
troy ounces myrrh in moderately coarse pow- 
der ; press it moderately into a conical perco- 
lator, and displace with alcohol 2 pints of 
tincture. (U. S. Ph.) 

4561. Tincture of Nutgall. Moisten 4 
troy ounces nutgall, in moderately fine pow- 
der, with 1 fluid ounce diluted alcohol ; pack 
it in a glass percolator, and displace, with 
diluted alcohol, 2 pints tinctui-e. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4562. Tincture of duassia. Moisten 2 
troy ounces qaassia, in moderately fine pow- 
der, with 1 fluid ounce diluted alcohol ; pack 
it in a percolator and displace, with diluted 
alcohol, 2 pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4563. Tincture of B-hatany. Moisten 
6 troy ounces rhatany, in moderately fine 
powder, with 2 fluid ounces diluted alcohol ; 
pack it in a cylindrical glass percolator, and 
displace, with diluted alcohol, 2 pints of tinc- 
ture. (U.S. Ph.) 

4564. Tincture of Squill. Moisten 4 
troy ounces squill, in moderately coarse pow- 
der, with 1 fluid ounce diluted alcohol; pack 
it in a conical percolator, and displace, with 
diluted alcohol, 2 pints tincture. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4565. Tincture of Stramonium. Take 
4 troy ounces stramonium seed, in moderately 
fine powder, and percolate 2 pints of tincture 
in the same manner as the squill in the last 
formula. (U. S. Ph.) 

4566. Tincture of Tolu. Macerate 3 
troy ounces balsam of tolu in 2 pints alcohol 
until it is dissolved ; then filter. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4567. Compound Tincture of Benzoin. 
Macerate 3 troy ounces benzoin, ^ troy ounce 
socotrine aloes, both in coarse powder, and 2 
troy ounces storax, for 14 days in 2 pints alco- 
hol ; filter through paper. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4568. Compound Tincture of Carda- 
mom. Take 6 drachms cardamom, 2 drachms 
caraway, 5 drachms cinnamon, 1 drachm coch- 
ineal, all in moderately fine powder ; mix to- 
gether, and moisten with k fluid ounce diluted 
alcohol ; pack it in a cylindrical percolator, 
and displace, with diluted alcohol, 6 fluid 
ounces of tincture. Lastly mix this with 
2 troy ounces clarified honey, and filter 
through paper. (U. S. Ph.) 

4569. Compound Tincture of Gentian. 
Mix together 2 troy ounces gentian, 1 troy 
ounce bitter orange peel, k troy ounce carda- 
mom, all in fine powder ; moisten with l-J- 
fluid ounces diluted alcohol ; pack it in a con- 
ical percolator, and displace, with diluted 
alcohol, 2 pints of tincture. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4570. Compound Tincture of Iodine. 
Dissolve i troy ounce iodine and 1 of iodide 
of potassium in 1 pint alcohol. ( U. S. Ph.) 



Flmd Extracts. This form of 
medicinal extracts was introduced into 
the United States Pharmacopoeia m 1850, for 
the first time as a distinct class of prepara- 
tions. Their distinctive character is the concen- 
tration of the active ingredients of a substance 
into a small bulk and in liquid form. Their 
advantages consist in greater convenience of 
administration, and in the fact that, not having 



FLUID EXTRACTS. 



419 



()een subjected to excessive evaporation, the 
active priuciples tliej contain are less liable 
to have suflFered injury by heat. The main 
difficulty lies in their liquid form increasing 
the liability to undergo spontaneous decom- 
position ; this is counteracted in some cases 
by the addition of sugar, in others by alcohol, 
and in others again by a mixture of both. 
Some fluid extracts have a tendency to de- 
posit matter when combined with sugar, ren- 
dering the extract turbid or cloudy in appear- 
ance ; instead of sugar, Mr. Alfred B. Taylor 
has proposed the use of glycerine, which, 
while it has the same preservative influence, 
possesses the property of dissolving the mat- 
ter which would be deposited by the use of 
sugar. Fluid extracts are obtained by perco- 
lation, and the menstruum used is alcohol or 
alcohol and water, the proportions of each 
depending on the nature of the substance to 
be extracted. The price of alcohol has greatly 
increased since 1860, and a regard to economy 
has probably, in some cases, induced devia- 
tions in officinal preparations. This point 
will probably receive due consideration at 
the next revision of the Pharmacopoeia. 

4572. Grahame's Method of Perco- 
lation. Professor Grahame, of the Maryland 
College of Pharmacy, has proposed a modifi- 
cation of the displacement process which may 
be thus stated : Keduce the substance, by 
contusion, to a powder which will pass through 
a sieve of 40 meshes to the linear inch (if of 
close texture a sieve of 60 meshes is to be 
preferred) ; now add just sufficient of the 
menstruum to dampen the powder without 
wholly destroying its mobility ; this usually 
requires about one-fourth as much menstruum 
as of the powder. Transfer to a glass funnel 
with a plug of cotton in the neck, and pack it 
with little or much pressure, according to its 
tenacity or disposition to adhere (more firmly 
when alcohol or ether is the menstruum than 
when water is to be used) ; if the particles of 
the moistened powder move freely on each 
other, the packing should be with as much 
force as a glass vessel will bear^ the whole of 
the powder being introduced at once^ and 
packed with a pestle or packing-stick. The 
whole quantity of the menstruum may now 
be poured on, or to the capacity of the funnel, 
and the process allowed to proceed to comple- 
tion, without in any case repassing the first 
portions of the liquid. By this process, if 
carefully followed, very concentrated solutions 
are obtained. Indeed, most of the fluid ex- 
tracts may be completed with little or no 
evaporation. 

4573. Procter's Classified Formula 
for Making Fluid Extracts. In order to 
obtain as great a uniformity in the preparation 
of fluid extracts as the nature of the various 
drugs would permit, the following practical 
classification was drawn up by Professor 
"William Procter, Jr., and submitted to the 
American Phannaceutical Association, by 
whom the matter had been entrusted to him 
for investigation. In order to economize 
space, we give it in a somewhat condensed 
form. The paramount object in obtaining 
the fluid extract of a drug, is to extract, as far 
as possible, all the valuable ingredients; to 
condense them to some uniform standard 
strength; so that, for instance, each fluid 



1 ounce of the extract should contain the vir- 
tues of, and represent 1 ounce of the drug ; 
j and to leave the fluid in the best possible con- 
j dition for retaining in solution the active 
I principles of the drag. The process of perco- 
' lation is adopted, as best adapted to efiect the 
desired objects, and admitting a greater de- 
gree of accuracy than that of maceration. 
Glass funnels answer a good purpose, but 
cylindrical percolators may be employed. In 
either case, if the powder has been properly 
compacted, the menstruum, when added, pass- 
es very deliberately, by drops, and it will be 
found that the proportion of the percolate 
which is directed to be reserved will contain 
nearly all of the most valuable parts of the 
drug. In this way the action of the heat and 
air is entirely prevented on the most import- 
ant part of the extracted matter, and where 
volatile oils are concerned this fact is particu- 
larly important. The ingredients are first re- 
duced to a powder; and, in order to ensure 
the required result, difierent degrees of fine- 
ness are recommended, suitable to the degree 
of solubility and other natural peculiarities of 
the various drugs employed. This end is at- 
tained by sifting the powder through sieves 
containing a certain number of meshes to the 
linear inch. A sieve of 40 meshes to the inch 
will produce a powder designated as Ifo. 
40, &c. 

A new class of oleo-resinous fluid extracts 
has been suggested, in which the stronger 
aromatics have been introduced, such as 
cloves, cinnamon, cardamom, &c., and which 
possess, for certain uses, very desirable advan- 
tages from their concentration. The number 
of oleo-resins has been considerably increased, 
on the ground that they represent their re- 
spective sources more completely and in 
smaUer bulks than in any other form of fluid 
or semi-fluid extracts. On account of their 
superior strength, they should occupy a dis- 
tinct position under the name of " Oleo-resins" 
to distinguish them more particularly from all 
those preparations which go by the name of 
fluid extracts. 

4574. Class No. 1, of Classified Fluid 
Extracts. The following substances are to 
be reduced to a powder of JS'o. 60 degree of 
fineness ; with the exception of Buchu, which 
should be in ]Sro. 40 powder. 

Aconite Leaves. Henbane Leaves. 

Belladonna Leaves. Matico. 

Buchu. Thorn-Apple (Stramonium). 

Digitalis (Fox glove). Valerian. 

The menstraum employed is 2 pints alco- 
hol diluted with 1 pint water. Moisten 16 
troy ounces of the powdered drag evenly with 
4 fluid ounces of the diluted alcohol ; pack it 
firmly in a percolator, cover the surface of the 
powder with a disc of cloth (muslin, linen, 
lint, or any insoluble porous tissue, to prevent 
the disturbance of the powder) ; then pour on 
the menstraum gradually, so as to displace 3 
pints ; reserve the first 12 fluid ounces, and 
evaporate the remainder on a water-bath at 
150° Fahr., to 4 fluid ounces ; mix this with 
the reserved tincture ; and, after standing 24 
hours, filter through paper. The alcoholic 
strength of these extracts is nearly 50 per 
cent. 

4575. Class No. 2, of Classified Fluid 
Extracts. The drugs included under this 



4:20 



FLUID EXTRACTS. 



class should also be in at least l^o. 60 pow- 
der. Ipecacuanlia and jalap may be reduced 
to dust with advantage. The fluid to be 
used is alcohol having a specific gravity of 
.835. 

Jalap. 

May-apple Root (Podo- 
pliyUiiin or Mandrake). 

Blood Root (Sanguinaria). 

American Hellebore (Ver- 



Aconite Root. 
Black Snakeroot (Cimici- 
fuga, or Black Cohosh). 
Black Hellebore. 
Ipecacuanha. 



atrumviride). 



Colchicmn Root. 

Columbo. 

Chiretta. 

Boneset (Eupatoritun). 



Moisten 16 troy ounces of the drug with 6 
fluid ounces of the alcohol ; displace 3 pints 
as directed in class 1, reserving the first i 
piut of percolate ; distill the remainder until 
reduced to i pint, and, while hot, mix the dis- 
tillate with the reserved tincture. After 
standing 24 hours, filter through paper. 

4576. Class No. 3, of Classified Fliiid 
Extracts. The substances included under 
this class require to be used in 'Bo. 50 pow- 
der ; except columbo, jSTo. 40 ; and squill, on 
account of its gummy nature, 'So. 30. The 
extract of colchicum deposits, by standing, a 
whitish sediment, which is believed to be in 
no wise connected with the activity of the 
preparation ; it is recommended to allow this 
deposit to form before proceeding to filtra- 
tion. Dilute alcohol is employed for making 
these extracts. 

Gentian. 
Squill (Scilla). 
Seneka. 

Virginia Snake Root (Ser- 
pentaria). 

Moisten 16 troy ounces of the substance 
with 4 fluid ounces dilute alcohol, percolate 3 
piats, as in class 1, reserving the first 12 fluid 
ounces, evaporate the remainder to 4 fluid 
ounces by a water-bath at 150° Fahr. ; mix 
with the reserved tincture; and, after 24 
hours, filter. 

4577. Class No. 4, of Classified 
riuid Extracts. This class consists of sac- 
charine fluid extracts, the sugar being intro- 
duced as a preservative agent. A decided 
advantage is gained by adding the sugar to 
the extract before the completion of the evap- 
oration ; in some cases it might be better to 
add the sugar previous to any evaporation. 
The fluid extracts of pipsissewa, bittersweet, 
pomegranate, pink-root, and sarsapaiilla, 
fully represent the several drugs ; and, com- 
biued with 3 times their bulk of simiple syrup, 
afibrd syrups of the ordinary strength. The 
menstruum used in these preparations is di- 
lute alcohol ; and the drugs are to be reduced 
to IsTo. 50 powder, except galls, which should 
be So. 40. 

Bark 



YeUow Peruvian Bark 
(Cinchona Calisaya). 
Pipsissewa (Chimaphila) 
Bittersweet (Dulcamara) 
Galls. 
CranesbiU (Geraniiun). 



Pomegranate-root 
(Granatum). 

Blackberry Root (Rubus). 

SarsapariUa. 

Pink Root (SpigeUa). 

Bearberry Leaves (Uva 
Ursi). 

Moisten 16 troy ounces of the powdered drug 
with 5 pint dilute alcohol ; let it stand 30 
minutes, then percolate as directed for class 1, 
until 3 pints have passed through ; evaporate 
at a moderate heat on a water-bath to 1 pint ; 
add 10 ounces sugar, evaporate to 1 pint, and 
strain while hot. 

4578. Class No. 5, of Classified Fluid 
Extracts. The extracts obtained by this 
process are termed acetic fluid extracts^ The 



acetic acid is introduced to control the ten- 
dency to decomposition, cuused by the exists 
ence, in the drugs treated in this manner, of a 
salt consisting of an alkaloid and an organic 
acid. The fluid used is a mixture of h fluid 
ounce acetic acid and 3 pints diluted alcohol ; 
and the drugs should be reduced to a So. 60 
powder. 

Ergot. Lobelia Leaves. Hemlock (Conium). 

Moisten 16 troy ounces of the powder with 
^ pint of the acetic mixtm-e ; pack it in a con- 
ical percolator, and displace 3 pints, reserving 
the first 12 fluid ounces, using dilute alcohol 
dming the last part of the percolation. Evap- 
orate the latter percolate to 4 fluid ounces, 
at a temperature not exceeding 150° Fahr.; 
mix this with the reserved tincture, and fil- 
ter through paper. 

4579. Class No. 6, of Classified Elmd 
Extracts. Under this division are placed 
oleoresinous fluid extracts. (See No. 4573.) 
The menstruum employed is deodorized alco- 
hol, and the drugs are used in So. 50 powder ; 
except canella, Ceylon cinnamon, elecampane, 
and orris root, used in So. 60, and myrrh in 
So. 30 powder. 



Capsicum. 

CaneUa. 

Cardamom. 

Cloves (CaryophyUujn). 

Ceylon Cinnamon. 

Cubebs. 

Elecampane (Inula). 

Lunuhn. 



Orris Root, llris Floren-- 
tina). 

Myrrh. 

Pellitory Root (Pyre th- 
rum). 

Allspice (Pimento). 

Prickly Ash Bark (Xan- 
thoxylum). 



The oleoresin of the above substances are 
to be obtained by percolation, and distiUing 
ofi" the alcohol. 

This process of obtaining the oleoresins was 
modified before adoption in the U. S. Ph., by 
substituting ether for deodorized alcohol as 
the menstruum employed. The five following 
oleoresins are officinal preparations. 

4580. Oleoresin of Capsicum. Take 
12 troy ounces capsicum in fine powder, press 
it firmly in a cylindrical percolator, and grad- 
ually pour ether on it sufficient to displace 24 
fluid ounces. Eecover from this, by distilla- 
tion on a water-bath, 18 fluid ounces of ether, 
and expose the residue in a capsule until the 
remaining ether has evaporated ; lastly, re- 
move, by straining, the fatty matter which 
separates on standing, andkeepthe oleoresin in 
a well stopped bottle. ( U. S. Ph). 

4581. Oleoresin of Cubebs. Moderate- 
ly press 12 troy ounces cubebs in fine pow- 
der into a cylindrical percolator, and treat 
bv the same process as the capsicum in the 
last formula. {U. S. Pli). 

4582. Oleoresin of Lupulin. Press 12 
troy ounces lupuhn into a narrow cyhndrical 
percolator, and displace with ether 30 fluid 
ounces ; complete the process by distillation 
and subsequent evaporation in the same way 
as for capsicum. {See No. 4580.) {U. S. 
Ph). 

4583. Oleoresin of Black Pepper. 
Treat 12 troy ounces black pepper in fine 
powder, by ethereal percolation and distilla- 
tion, in the same manner as laid down in So. 
4580 ; expose the residue after distillation in a 
capsule, until the remaining ether has evap- 
orated and the deposition of piperin in crys- 
tals has ceased. Lastly, separate the oleores- 
in from the piperin by expression through a 
muslin strainer, and keep in a weU-stopped 
bottle. ( U. S. Ph). 



FLUID EXTRACTS. 



4=21 



4584. Oleoresin of Ginger. Take 12 
troy ounces ginger in fine powder, press it 
firmly into a cylindrical percolator, and pour 
upon it 12 fluid ounces stronger ether; con- 
tinue the percolation with alcohol sufficient 
to displace 12 fluid ounces in all. Kecover 
from this, by distillation n a water-bath, 9 
fluid ounces ether, and expose the residue in 
a capsule until the volatile part has evaporated. 
Lastly, keep the oleoresin in a well-stoppered 
bottle. (U.S.Fh.) 

4585. Oleoresin of Male Fern. Pack 
cljsely 2 pounds avoirdupois, male fern, in 
coarse powder in a percolator ; displace with 
4 imperial pints ether, or until it passes color- 
less Let the ether evaporate on a water- 
bath, or recover it by distillation, and pre- 
serve the oily extract. (Br. Ph.) This prep- 
aration by its character decidedly belongs to ' 
the oleoresius ; it has long been known and 
much used in Europe, under the name of oil 
of fern, in the treatment of the tapeworm. 
It is believed to have all the vermifugal pow- 
ers of the male fern, and may be given in -|- 
fluid drachm doses, ( U. S. Dis.) 

4586. Fluid Extract of Rhubarb and 
Potassa. Grrind or coarsely bruise 2 pounds 
avoirdupois best India rhubarb, 1 pound cassia 
or cinnamon, and 1 pound golden seal ; mace- 
rate for 24 hours or more in 1 gallon good 
French brandy; express strongly, and add 1 
fluid drachm oil of peppermint previously 
dissolved in a little 90 per cent, alcohol. 
Break up the compressed residue, and per- 
colate with warm water until exhausted. 
Evaporate this solution to 4 pints, and, while 
warm (not too hot), dissolve in it 2 pounds 
bicarbonate of potassa, and 3 pounds refined 
sugar ; evaporate, if necessary, to the quan- 
tity that the first macerated tincture lacks of 
1^ gallons. Lastly mix the two together. It 
is used for the same purposes as the compound 
powder of rhubarb, 2 fluid drachms of the 
extract being equivalent to 1 drachm of the 
powder, (A^n. Bis.) A simple alkaline ex 
tract of rhubarb is given in l^o. 4591. 

4587. Fluid Extract of Stillingia. 
Cut fresh root of stillingia, 16 troy ounces, 
into small pieces ; cover with alcohol, and 
digest for 24 hours. Then transfer to a per- 
colator, and pack it so as to run slowly ; add 
alcohol gradually, returning the first that 
passes until it runs clear. Reserve the first 
12 fluid ounces percolated ; then continue the 
percolation, with diluted alcohol, until the 
residuum is nearly exhausted ; add 8 ounces 
white sugar to this dilute percolate, and evap- 
orate by moderate heat to 4 fluid ounces. 
Add to this the reserved tincture, and 1 fluid 
drachm oil of caraway, and make 1 pint fluid 
extract. The dose is from 2 to 5 drops, 

4588. Fluid Extract of Yarrow. 
Take of yarrow (the recently dried herb) 
in coarse powder, 8 ounces ; dilute alcohol (2 
parts 95 per cent, alcohol and 1 part water), 
a sufficient quantity. Pour over the powdered 
nerb 4 ounces of the diluted alcohol, and work 
through with the hands until thoroughly ] 
moistened; allow it to stand in a covered 
Jar for 24 hours, I ack closely in a funnel or 
other displacer and proceed to displace until 
24 fluid ounces are obtained, which, if per- 
formed with proper care, will exhaust the 
herb, as tested, by tasting the droppings. 



The resulting liquid should be exposed in a 
shallow dish (in summer to a draught of air 
under an open window, in winter on a shel/ 
near the top of the room), and allowed to 
evaporate spontaneously until it measures 16 
fluid ounces; 30 or 40 grains bicarbonate of 
potassa in powder may then be added, which 
retains the extractive in solution, and clears 
the liquid without interfering with its proper- 
ties. Thp> evaporation of this fluid extract 
may be continued, if desired, with a very gen- 
tle heat (in a water-bath) until reduced to 
the consistence of an ordinary extract. The 
result in either case, fluid or solid, possesses 
in a marked degree the sensible and other pro- 
perties of the herb, each tea-spoonful repre- 
senting 30 grains of the herb. 

4589. Procter's Fluid Extract of 
Wild Cherry Bark. Take of wild cherry 
bark, 24 ounces; sweet almonds, 3 ounces; 
and pure granulated sugar, 36 ounces. Mace- 
rate the powdered bark in 2 pints of 88 per 
cent, alcohol for 8 hours, introduce it into a 
percolator, and pour alcohol on it until 5 
pints have passed, observing to regulate the 
passage of the liquid by a cork or stop-cock. 
Introduce the tincture into a capsule (or still, 
if the alcohol is to be regained), and evapo- 
rate it to a syrupy consistence; add i pint 
water, and again evaporate until all the alco- 
hol is removed. Beat the almonds, without 
bleaching, into a smooth paste with a little of 
the water, and then sufficient to make the 
emulsion measure H pints, and pour it into a 
quart bottle, previously containing the solu- 
tion of the extract of bark; cork it secm-ely 
and agitate occasionally for 24 hours, so as to 
give time for the decomposition of the amyg- 
daline. The mixture is then to be quickly 
expressed and filtered into a bottle containing 
the sugar, Water should be added to the 
dregs and they again expressed till sufficient 
liquor is obtaiued to make the fluid extract 
measure 3 pints. The proportion of sugar, 
though less than that in syrup, is sufficient to 
preserve the preparation, aided by the presence 
of hydrocyanic acid. 

4590. Parrish's Compound Fluid Ex- 
tract of Buchu. Take of buchu, in coarse 
powder, 12 ounces ; alcohol, 3 pints ; water, 6 
pints, or sufficient. Treat the leaves by ma- 
ceration and displacement, first with a por- 
tion of the alcohol, and then with the remain- 
der mixed with the water; evaporate the 
resulting liquid with a gentle heat to 3 pints, 
and add 2^ pounds sugar. Continue the heat 
till it is dissolved, and, after removing from 
the fire, add oil of cubebs, oil of juniper, of 
each 1 fluid drachm ; spirit of nitric ether, 12 
fluid ounces, previously mixed. Stir to- 
gether. 

4591. Alkaline Fluid Extract of 
Rhubarb. Take of fluid extract of rhubarb 
(by repercolation), 1 fluid ounce; neutral 
carbonate of potassa, 80 grains ; water, 1 fluid 
ounce. Dissolve the cari«)uate in the water; 
to this add the fluid extract, and let the mix- 
ture repose 6 to 12 hours ; then strain 
through muslin, and filter, if desirable. The 
alkaline fluid extract of rhubarb cap be mixed 
with water in any proportion, afl'ording a per- 
fectly clear and transparent liquid of a deep 
red color. Another alkaline fluid extract of 
rhubarb will be found in Xo. 4586. 



4.22 



FLUID EXTRACTS, 



4592. Moore's Fluid Estract of Cimi- 1 
cifuga Racemosa (Black Cohosli or 
Black Snakeroot.) Take of cimicifuga, in 
ISTo. 50 powder, 16 ounces, troy; alcoliol 95 
per cent., diluted alcohol, of each a sufficient 
quantity. Moisten the root with the alcohol, 
pack closely in the displacer, and pour on al- 
cohol gradually unt^ 8 fluid ounces have 
passed through, which reserve in a covered 
vessel to prevent evaporation, then proceed 
with dilute alcohol until the root is thor- 
oughly exhausted. Evaporate over a water- 
bath until aU the alcohol is driven off; set it 
aside to cool, that the resinous portion ex- 
tracted may be deposited, which separate and 
add to the alcoholic portion first obtained; 
then proceed with the evaporation until re- 
duced to 8 fluid ounces, and mix the two pro- 
ducts ; allow it to stand 48 hours, and then 
filter. {See Ko. ^^1^.) 

4593. Compound Fluid Extract of 
Squills. This is alcoholic, in which 3 parts 
alcohol are diluted with 1 part water. Take 
of squiUs and seneka, each 16 ounces troy, re- 
duced to a moderately coarse powder. Moist- 
en with about 12 ounces of the liquid, and 
pack firmly ia a conical percolator ; cover the 
surface with a cloth and pour on of the same 
menstruum until 6 pints have slowly passed, 
reserving carefully the first 24 ounces. Evap- 
orate the remainder in a water-bath at 150'^ 
Fahr., until reduced to 8 fluid ounces. Mix 
it with the reserved tincture, and, after stand- 
ing, with occasional agitation, for 24 hours, 
filter, dropping sufficient of the menstruum 
on the filter to make the whole measure 2 
pints. Rive Syriq? may now be prepared 
firom this extract by taking : compound fluid 
extract of squills, 4 fluid ounces ; tartar emet- 
ic, 24 grains ; simple syrup, 20 fluid ounces ; 
hot water, ^ fluid ounce. Dissolve the tartar 
emetic in the water, and mix with the other 
ingredients. 

4594. Procter's Fluid Extract of 
Hops. Take hops in coarse powder, 16 troy 
ounces. Mix in 4 ounces dilute alcohol; pack 
it in a conical percolator, cover the surface 
with cloth, and add dilute alcohol until 3 pints 
of tinctm-e have slowly passed, carefully re- 
serving the first 12 ounces. Evaporate the 
remainder of the tincture hi a water-bath stiU 
to 4 fluid ounces, mix it with the reserved 
tincture, agitate occasionally during 24 hours, 
and filter, dropping sufficient dilute alcohol 
on the filter to make the measure of a pint. 

4595. Procter's Fluid Extract of 
liiquorice. Take of Calabria liquorice, 8 
troy ounces ; and sugar in coarse powder, 10 
troy ounces. Bruise the liquorice till it is re- 
duced to pieces the size of a pea, enclose it 
ia a gauze cloth, suspend it in a pint vessel, 
cover it with cold water, let it stand 12 
hom-s (if ia summer in a cool place), pour off 
the dense solution, renew the water, and again 
macerate and decant. Mix the two liquids, 
evaporate to 12 fluid ounces, dissolve in it the 
sugar, and again evaporate until the measure 
of 1 pint is obtained. 

4596. Grahame's Fluid Extract of 
Burdock. Take of burdock, ui Iso. 50 pow- 
der, 16 ounces; dilute alcohol (alcohol 9 
parts, water 7 parts), a sufficient quantity. 
Dampen the powder with the menstruum and 
pack it in a suitable glass displacer : having 



covered the surface with a piece of mushn oi 
perforated paper, pour on the menstmam, 
and continue the percolation to exhaustion, 
reserving Ik ounces of the first runmngs, evap- 
orate the remainder over a water-bath until 
reduced to 9 fluid ounces, to which add 4 
ounces sugar and dissolve. Strain, if neces- 
sary, and add the reserved portion. The dose 
of the extract is one tea-spoonful, representing 
80 grains of the root. Burdock is one of the 
best vegetable alteratives, or blood depurents, 
and it is believed that this fluid extract might 
be advantageously substituted for that of sar- 
sapariUa, as a more efficient and reliable 
alterative, or at least as a valuable addition 
to it. 

4597. Fluid Extract of Chamomile. 
Take of firesh chamomile flowers, 1 pound; 
alcohol of specific gravity .871. Moisten the 
chamomile in coarse powder, with the alcohol, 
then pack in a percolator, and cover with the 
alcohol ; digest 6 days, and draw off 12 oun- 
ces, which set aside. Continue the displace- 
ment with diluted alcohol, until it is freely 
exhausted of its bitterness, which evaporate 
in a vacuum to 4 fluid ounces. Mix and fiter. 
1 drachm of this preparation represents 60 
grains of chamomile flowers, which is usually 
given in doses of 20 grains, as a tonic, to 1 
drachm, as an antiperiodic — making the dose 
for like cases from 20 minims to 1 fluid 
drachm. 

4598. Fluid Extract of Seneka. The 
formula for making this extract wiU be found 
in 1^0. 4576, but seneka yields its active prin- 
ciples so easily and entirely, that an extract 
of it may be obtained of standard strength 
without evaporation. If a convenient quan- 
tity of seneka in iN'o. 50 powder be divided 
into 3 equal parts, and repercolated with 85 
per cent, alcohol, an extract will be obtained, 
each fluid ounce of which will represent a 
troy ounce of the root. 

4599. Fluid Extract of Ipecacuanlia. 
Moisten 16 troy ounces ipecacuanha in fine 
powder with 6 fluid ounces alcohol ; press it 
firmly into a conical percolator, and displace 3 
pints of tincture, or until the ipecacuanha is 
exhausted. DistiU the tincture over a water- 
bath until the residue is of a syrupy consist- 
ence. Mix with 1 fluid ounce acetic acid 
and 10 fluid ounces water; boil until reduced 
to ^ pint, and the resinous matter has separa- 
ted. Filter when cold, and add water through 
the filter to make the filtrate up to -J pint. 
Mix with k pint alcohol. ( U. S. Ph.) 

It is affirmed that syrup made from extract 
prepared according to the above formula is. 
apt to become cloudy. It is proposed to 
avoid this result by dividing ipecacuanha in 
Xo. 50 powder into 3 parts, and obtaining- 
the extract by repercolation in the same man- 
ner as the seneka in jSTo. 4598. 

4600. Fluid Extract of Sumach. 
Take 4 pints 76 per cent, alcohol, and 1 pound 
of the recently dried bark of Rhus Glabrum 
(sumach) in coarse powder. Moisten the 
powdered bark with sufficient alcohol and let 
it macerate for 24 hours, then percolate with 
the remainder of the alcohol, returning ths 
first that passes until it runs clear. Eeservtt 
the first 4 clear fluid ounces of tincture, evap- 
orate the remainder to 4 fluid ounces, and 
set aside. Then percolate the residuum near- 



MEDICINAL ESSENCES. 



4.23 



ly to exhaustion with hot water, evaporate 
this aqueous solution to ^ pint, then add to 
it 4 ounces white sugar, evaporate to 8 fluid 
ounces, and, while warm, mix it with the re- 
served 8 ounces of tincture to make 1 pint of 
fluid extract. {Am. Dis.) 

4601. Fluid Extract of Scullcap. 
This is prepared from 1 pound of the dried 
leaves of scullcap (Scutellaria) in precisely 
the same manner as directed for fluid extract 
of sumach in preceding receipt. (Am. Bift.) 

4602. Pluid Extract of Life-Root is 
obtained from 1 pound recently dried life-root 
(senecio aureus) in the same manner as 
the sumach in 'No. 4600. (Am. Dis.) 

4603. Fluid Extract of Senna and 
Jalap. Take 6 pints 76 per cent, alcohol. 
Mix together 1 pound senna and ^ pound 
jalap root, both in coarse powder; moisten 
them with some of the alcohol, and macerate 
for 24 hours. Transfer to a percolator and 
displace with the remainder of the alcohol; 
reserve the first 6 fluid ounces ; evaporate the 
remainder to 6 fluid ounces and set also aside, 
if early exhaust the residuum with diluted 
alcohol and evaporate it to 12 fluid ounces ; 
add 8 ounces white sugar; again evaporate 
to 12 fluid ounces, and, while warm, add 6 
drachms carbonate of potassa, 40 minims oil 
of cloves dissolved in I5 fluid drachms Hoff"- 
man's anodyne, and the 12 ounces reserved 
extract, making altogether 1| pints fluid ex- 
tract. (Am. Dis.) 

4604. Fluid Extract of Blessed Tliis- 
tle. Take 16 troy ounces blessed thistle 
(carduus benedictus) in Xo. 40 powder, 
dampen it with about 6 ounces dilute alcohol, 
and pack it in a suitable glass percolator; 
having covered the surface with a piece of 
muslin or a layer of clean sand (which is more 
convenient), displace with dilute alcohol. 
"When 1 pint of liquid shall have passed, put 
it aside in a warm place for spontaneous 
evaporation until reduced to 10 fluid ounces. 
Continue the percolation with diluted alcohol 
until 2 more pints of liquid have passed ; to 
these add 6 ounces sugar and reduce by evap- 
oration over a water-bath to 6 fluid ounces, 
adding, while still hot, the 10 ounces of con- 
centrated tincture; on cooling, the mixture 
becomes slightly turbid, but by the addition 
of a few drops of alcohol the resinous matter 
is redissolved, making a dark brown fluid 
extract which may be filtered if necessary. 

4605. Fluid Extract of Cinchona. 
Take cinchona (calisaya) in powder, 8 troy 
ounces; simple (oflScinal) syrup, 4 fluid oun- 
ces; glycerine, 4 fluid ounces; alcohol, con- 
centrated and diluted, a sufficient quantity, i 
Moisten the cinchona with 6 fluid ounces of 
diluted alcohol ; allow it to stand in a covered 
jar for three hours, and then transfer it to a 
cylindrical percolator. Pack it finnly, and 
gi-adually pour upon it diluted alcohol, until 
12 fluid ounces of the tincture have been 
obtained. Set this aside, and continue the 
percolation with dilute alcohol, until the cin- 
chona is thoroughly exhausted. To the last 
percolate add the syrup and glycerine, and 
evaporate by means of a water-bath to about 
10 fluid ounces. To this add the reserve 
tincture, and continue the evaporation to 14 
fluid ounces. Remove from the water-bath, 
and, when nearly cold, add sufficient alcohol to 



make the whole measure 16 fluid ounces. 
Each pint of the fluid extract contains nearly 
2| ounces of alcohol. (See No. 4577.) 

4606. Fluid Extract of Pareira. Di- 
gest for 24 hours 1 pound pareira root, in 
coarse powder, in 1 pint boiling distilled wa- 
ter ; then pack it in a percolator, and displace 
1 gallon, or until the pareira root is exhausted. 
Evaporate over a water-bath to 13 fluid oun- 
ces; when cold add 3 fluid ounces rectified 
spirit, and filter through paper. This is the 
officinal formula of the British Pharmacopoeia, 
consequently avoirdupois weight and imperial 
measure are to be used in preparing it. The 
dose consists of 1 to 2 fluid drachms. 

4607. Moore's Fluid Extract of Va- 
nilla. Take 8 troy ounces vanilla, and an 
equal weight of crushed loaf sugar. Slit the 
pods from end to end with a knife ; then take 
them in small bundles, held tightly between 
the fingers, and cut them transversely into 
very small pieces. Of these, beat small por- 
tions at a time in an iron mortar, with a little 
of the sugar, until reduced to a damp powder, 
which must be rubbed with the hand through 
a iSTo. 20 sieve; any coarse particles which 
will not pass through the sieve must be re- 
turned to the mortar, and, with fresh portions 
of vanilla and sugar, again treated as before. 
This is to be continued until the whole is re- 
duced to a No. 20 powder. This is then to 
be mixed with 5 pints of a mixtm-e of 3 parts 
alcohol and 1 part water, and the whole intro- 
duced into a 1-gallon stone jug, which must be 
tightly corked. The jug is then placed in a 
water-bath, resting upon folds of paper, and 
the mixture digested for 2 hours at a tempera- 
ture of from 160° to 170° Fahr. The upper 
part of the jug must be kept cool (to prevent 
the undue expansion of vapor), by wrapping 
around it a towel or other cloth kept saturated 
by having cold water squeezed upon it from 
a sponge every 15 or 20 minutes. The jug 
should also be removed from the bath after 
each application of the water, and its contents 
well shaken, keeping the hand upon the cork 
to prevent its expulsion, and perhaps conse- 
quent loss of material. When the digestion 
has been completed, and the mixture has 
cooled, it is to be expressed through muslin. 
Pack the residue, previously rubbed with the 
hands to a uniform condition, firmly in a glass 
funnel prepared for percolation, and gradually 
pour upon it first the expressed liquid, and 
when this has all disappeared from* the sur- 
face, continue the percolation with a mixture 
of 3 parts alcohol and 1 part water^ until 8 
pints of percolate are obtained. 



Medicinal Essences. The 
usual rule for making essences, is to 
mix 1 ounce of the essential oil with 1 quart 
of alcohol ; although much is sold that con- 
tains only 5 ounce, and even k ounce of the 
oil to the quart. A strong essence would 
consist of 1 ounce of oil to 1 pint of alcohol ; 
from 10 to 30 drops of this would make a 
dose. 

4609. To Color Medicinal Essencee. 
Essence of peppermint is generally colored 
with tincture of turmeric ; essence of cinna- 



4=24. 



MEDICINAL ESSENCES. 



mon with, tincture of red sandal wood ; win- 
tergreen with tiacture of kino. The best way 
of coloring an essence is to steep for 12 hours 
the green leaf or other substance from which 
the oil is made, and then filter. The coloring 
is merely a matter of appearance ; the essences 
are just as good without it. 

4610. Essence of Peppermint. Oil 
of peppermint, 1 ounce; herb peppermint, i 
ounce; spirit of wine, 1 pint. Digest for a 
week, or until sufficiently colored. Palish- 
green, and very strong of the peppermint. 
Essence of peppermint is not conceived to be 
good by the ignorant unless it has a pale tint 
of green, which they presume is a proof of its 
being genuine. The most harmless way is to 
steep a little of the green peppermint in the 
spirit for this purpose (as above), or if this is 
not at hand, a little parsley will do equally as 
well, and in fact improve the flavor. 

4611. Essence of Camphor, also 
called Liquor of Camphor ; Concentra- 
ted Tincture of Camphor; Camphor- 
Drops. Dissolve 45 drachms (avoirdupois) 
clear camphor, inl imperial pint rectified 
spirit. This forms the ordinary essence of 
camphor and the \>q?X spirit of camphor of the 
stores. Added to 15 times its bulk of pure 
cold water, it forms (by agitation) a transpa- 
rent solution exactly resembling the camphor- 
julep, camphor-water, or camphor-mixture 
used in medicine, and which, either alone or 
with a little more water, forms an excellent 
wash for the teeth and mouth, as noticed else- 
where. {See No. 1335.) 

Dissolve 1 avoirdupois ounce camphor in 10 
ounces rectified spirit. This foiras the Con- 
§entrated Essence of Camphor of the druggists. 
10 or 12 drops added to 1 fluid ounce of pm-e 
cold water form the transparent camphor- 
julep or camphor-water before noticed. 

4612. Essence of Coltsfoot. Balsam 
of tolu, 1 ounce ; compound tinctm-e of ben- 
zoin and rectified spirit of wine, of each 2 
ounces ; dissolve. 

4613. Essence of Chamomile. Es- 
sential oil of chamomile, h. ounce to 1 ounce ; 
spirit of wine, 1 pint; mix. "VThite. Or: 
Gentian root, sliced or bruised, 1 pound ; dried 
orange peel, ^ pound ; spirit of wiae, 1 gallon ; 
essential oil of chamomile, 5 ounces ; macerate 
a week. Slightly colored. Some persons 
use I pound of quassia wood, instead of the 
gentian and orange peel. Both the above are 
stomachic and tonic. 

4614. Essence of Spearmint. 1 
ounce of essential oil to 1 pint of spirit of 
wine tinged green. Process, use, and dose, 
the same as essence of peppermint. {See 
No. 4610.) 

4615. Bitter Essence. "Wormwood, 4 
parts; gentian root, bitter orange peel, and 
blessed thistle, of each 1 part; alcohol, 45 
parts ; digest for a week. Dose, \ drachm to 
2 drachms, combined with mixtures. Tonic 
and stomachic. 

4616. Essence of Beef. Chop fine 1 
pound lean beef, place it with 5 pint of water 
in a bottle which they will only half fill, and 
agitate violently for half an hour ; then throw 
the whole on a sieve, and receive the liquid 
in a jug. l^ext, boil the undissolved portion 
in 1 pint of water for 20 minutes ; strain, and 
mix the decoction with the cold infusion; 



evaporate the Kquid to the consistence ot 
thin syrup, adding spice, salt, <fcc., to suit the 
taste, and pour the essence, while boiling hot, 
into bottles {see next receipt), or jars, or (still 
better) tin cans, which must be closed up air- 
tight, and kept in a cool place. {See No. 1634.) 

4617. To Fill Glass Bottles with 
Boiling Liquid. If boiling liquid be poured 
into cold bottles, there is a great risk of the 
bottle breaking, involving probably the loss 
of the contents. To prevent this, stand the 
bottles in a wide pan with sufficient cool 
water to reach, nearly to the top of the bot- 
tles ; pour sufficient water in each bottle to 
prevent it floating, and then let the water in 
the pan be brought gradually to a boil. As 
each bottle is to be filled, take it out of the 
pan, empty the water out of it, and fill it im- 
mediately. 

4618. Ellis's Essence of Beef. Take 
lean beef, sliced thin, sufficient to fill the body 
of a porter bottle ; cork it loosely, and place it 
in a pot of cold water, attaching the neck by 
means of a string to the handle of the pot ; 
boil for I5 or 2 hours, then decant the liquid 
and skim it. This can be seasoned and packed 
as in receipt ISTo. 4616. 

4619. Concentrated Essence of Gin- 
ger. Unbleached, well-bruised Jamaica gin- 
ger, 4 ounces ; rectified spirit of wine, 1 pint ; 
digest for 2 weeks, press and filter. 

4620. Oxley's Concentrated Essence 
of Jamaica Ginger. The same as the preced- 
ing, with the addition of a very small quantity 
of essence of cayenne. 

4621. Very Strong Concentrated Es- 
sence of Ginger. Bruised unbleached 
Jamaica ginger, 12 pounds ; rectified spirit of 
wine, 2i gallons; digest 14 days, press, strain, 
and reduce the essence by distillation to 1 
gallon; cool and filter. This produces a 
most beautiful article. It is at once inexpen- 
sive and easily performed, as the spirit distill- 
ed off may be used with advantage for pre- 
paring the common tincture of ginger, and 
several other articles ; 2 ounces of this essence 
are regarded as equivalent to 3 ounces of the 
finest ginger. A single drop swallowed will 
almost produce suffocation. 

4622. Concentrated Essence of Gin- 
ger. Ginger and animal charcoal, both in 
coarse powder, equal parts ; add enough rec- 
tified spirits of wine to perfectly moisten 
them, and after 24 hom-s put the mass into a 
percolator, return the first runnings 2 or 3 
times, then change the receiver, and pour on 
spirit gradually as required, and at intervals, 
until as much essence is obtained as there was 
ginger employed. Quality excellent. The 
mass remaining in the percolator may be 
treated with fresh spirit until exhausted, and 
the tincture so obtained may be advantage, 
ously employed, instead of spirit, in making 
more essence with fresh ginger. The last por- 
tion of spirit in the mass may be obtained by 
adding a little water. {See Percolation, No. 
41.) 

4623. Concentrated Essence of Gua- 
iacum. Guaiacum shavings, from which the 
dust has been sifted, 3 cwt. Exhaust the 
wood by boiling with water, as in preparing 
an extract, using as little of that fluid as is 
absolutely necessary ; evaporate to exactly 
If gallons ; let it stand until cold, stirring i^ 



MEDICATED SYRUPS. 



4:25 



all the time to prevent the deposit of resinous | 
matter; put the whole into a hottle ; add 
spirit of wine, 5 pints ; agitate repeatedly for 
a week, then allow it to settle for 7 or 8 days, 
and decant the clear into another bottle. 
This preparation is frequently substituted for 
guaiacum shavings in the preparation of com- 
pound decoction of sarsaparilla. 1 pint of 
this essence is considered equivalent to 19 
pounds of guaiacum in substance. 

4624. Essence of Quinine. Take dilute 
sulphate of quinine, 1 drachm ; rectified spirit, 
1 fluid ounce; mix, add of dilute sulphuric 
acid (specific gravity 1.087 to 1.090), i fluid 
drachm (or less, on no account more), and 
agitate it thoroughly until solution is com- 
plete. A few drops added to water form an 
excellent wash for foul, spongy, and tender 
gumS; loose teeth, &c. ; also for weak hair. 



Medicated Syrups, syrup 
is a concentrated solution of sugar iii 
watery fluids. If made with pm-e water, it is 
termed syrup or simple syrup. "WTiere the 
water contains one or more medicinal agents, 
it is called medicated syrup. Full informa- 
tion as to preparation, &c., will be found in 
Nos. 1356, <fec. 

4626. Svrup of Phosphate of Zinc. 
Phosphate of zinc, 192 grains ; water, 11 fluid 
drachms ; syrupy phosphoric acid (specific 



4629. Easton's Syrup of Phosphate 
of Iron, duinine, and Strychnine. Take 
of phosphate of iron, 192 grains ; phosphate 
of quinia, or quinia prepared as directed in ifo. 
4027, 96 grains; strychnia (iu crystals), 3 
grains ; water, 7 fluid drachms ; syrupy phos- 
phoric acid (specific gravity 1.5), 9 fluid 
drachms; syrup, 10 fluid ounces, Kub the 
phosphate of iron with 5 drachms of the wa- 
ter in a glass mortar, dissolve the strychnia 
and quinia in the acid, previously mixed with 
the remaining 2 drachms of water ; mix and 
filter into the syrup. Each fluid drachm con- 
tains 2 grains of phosphate of iron, 1 grain of 
phosphate of quinine, and -^.^ part of a grain 
of strychnine. 

In this formula avoirdupois weight and 
Imperial measure are adopted. 

4630. Syrup of Phosphate of Iron 
and Strychnine may be prepared in the same 
manner as the last, omittiag the phosphate of 
quinine. 

4631. Phosphate of Iron. Dissolve 3 
ounces sulphate of iron in 2 pints boiling dis- 
tilled water, dissolve also 1 ounce acetate of 
soda and 2\ ounces phosphate of soda in 
another 2 pints boilin,g distilled water. Mix 
the 2 solutions, filter the precipitate through 
muslin, wash it with hot distilled water till 
the washings no longer form a precipitate 
with chloride of barium. Dry at a heat not 
exceeding 120° Fahr. {Br. Ph). 

4632. Syrup of Phosphate of Iron. 
Phosphate of iron, 96 grains ; water, 9 fluid 
drachms; syrupy phosphoric acid (specific 



gravity 1.5), 5 fluid drachms; syrap, 10 fluid] gravity 1.5), 7 fluid drachms; syrup, 10 fluid 



ounces. Rub the phosphate with the water, 
add the acid, and filter into the syrup. Each 
fluid drachm contains 2 grains of zinc phos- 
phate and about 18 minims of dilute phos- 
phoric acid. In this formula, avoirdupois 
weight and Imperial measure are adopted. 

4627. Syrup of Phosphate of Quinine. 
Take of phosphate of quinia, 96 grains ; wa- 
ter, 13 i fluid drachms; syrupy phosphoric 
acid (specific gravity 1.5), 2| fluid drachms; 
syrup, 10 fluid drachms. Mix the acid with 
the water, add the quinia, and filter into the 
syrup. Each fluid drachm contains 1 grain 
of phosphate of quinine and acid equal to 
about 10 minims of the dilute phosphoric 
acid. 

The same weight of quinia, prepared by 
precipitating an acidulated solution of the 
disulphate by solution of ammonia, collecting, 
washing, and drying at 100° Fahr., may be 
used, in the absence of the phosphate. In 
this formula avoirdupois weight and Imperial 
mea^^ure are intended. 

4628. Syrup of Phosphate of Iron 
with Q,uinine. Take of phosphate of iron, 
192 grains ; phosphate of quinia, 96 grains ; 
water, 7 fluid drachms; syrupy phosphoric 
acid (specific gravity 1.5), 9 fluid drachms; 
syrup, 10 fluid ounces. Rub the powders 
with the water, add the acid, and filter into 
the syrup. Each fluid drachm contains 2 
grains of phosphate of iron and 1 grain of 
phosphate of quinine. In the absence of the 
phosphate of quinia, the same weight of 
quinia may be prepared as directed in JSTo. 
4627. 

In this formula avoirdupois weight and 
Imperial measure are adopted. 



ounces. Rub the phosphate of iron with the 
water in a glass mortar, add the phosphoric 
acid, and Alter the mixture into the syrup. 
As thus prepared, it contains the same pro- 
portion of iron, about 2 minims less of the 
dilute acid (25 instead of 27), and rather more 
sugar than when prepared according to the 
British Pharmacopoeia. The phosphate of 
iron is made by the Br. Ph. process, and dried 
at a temperature not exceeding 100° Fahr. 
The specimens found in the ordinary course 
of trade are not readily soluble in the acid. 
This want of solubility is believed to be due 
to the length of time they have been kept 
before sale, as the best results have been ob- 
tained with the phosphate only a few days 
old. In this formula avoirdupois weight and 
Imperial measure are adopted. 

4633. S3rrup of Phosphate of Man- 
ganese may be prepared in a similar man- 
ner with the following ingredients : Phos- 
phate of manganese, 96 grains ; water, 9 fluid 
drachms; syrupy phosphoric acid (specific 
gravity 1.5), 9 Suid drachms ; syrap, 10 fluid 
ounces. Strength, 1 grain phosphate of man- 
ganese, and acid equal to about 25 minims of 
the dilute phosphoric acid in each fluid 
drachm. The phosphate of manganese is 
made in the same manner as the phosphate 
of iron, substituting sulphate of manganese 
for the sulphate of iron. In this formula 
avoirdupois weight and Imperial measure are 
intended. 

4634. Syrup of Phosphate of Iron 
with Manganese. Phosphate of iron, 72 
grains ; phosphate of manganese, 48 grains ; 
water, 8 fluid drachms; syrupy phosphoric 
acid, 8 fluid drachms ; syrup, 10 fluid ounces. 



4:26 



MEDICATED STBUFS. 



Eub the powders witli the water, add the acid, 
and filter into the synip. Each fluid drachm 
contains f grain phosphate of iron, ^ grain 
phosphate of manganese, and acid equal to 
about 30 minims of the dilute phosphoric acid, 
B. Ph. Avoirdupois weight and Imperial 
measure are understood in the above formula. 

4635. Syrup of Phosphate of Iron 
and Lime. Take of phosphate of iron, 96 
grains;- phosphate of lime, 192 grains ; water, 
8 fluid drachms; syrupy phosphoric acid, 
(specific gravity 1.5), 8 fluid drachms ; syrup, 
10 fluid ounces. Mix the powders with the 
water in a glass mortar, add the acid, and filter 
into the syrup. Each fluid drachm contains 
1 grain of phosphate of iron, 2 grains of phos- 
phate of lime, and an amount of acid equal to 
about 30 minims of the dilute phosphoric acid, 
B. Ph. The phosphate of lime is made by 
precipitation from solutions of chloride of cal- 
cium and phosphate of soda, and dried at 
100° Fahr., and should not be kept too long 
before use. In this formula avoirdupois 
weight and Imperial measure are adopted. 

4636. Durand's Syrup of Phosphate 
of Lime. Take of precipitated phosphate of 
lime, 128 grains ; glacial phosphoric acid, 240 
grains; sugar, in coarse powder, 74 ounces; 
distilled wat^^r, 4 fluid ounces ; essence of 
lemon, 12 drops. Mix the phosphate of lime 
with the water in a porcelain capsule, over a 
spirit or gas lamp, or in a sand-bath; add 
gradually the phosphoric acid until the whole 
of the phosphate of lime is dissolved. To this 
solution add suflScient water to compensate 
for the evaporation, then dissolve the sugar 
by a gentle heat, and, when perfectly cold, 
add the essence of lemon. The syrup of 
phosphate of lime, thus prepared, is colorless, 
transparent, of an acid taste, and contains 
two grains of the phosphate of lime, and 
nearly four grains of phosphoric acid to each 
tea-spoonful. "WTien diluted it forms a phos- 
phoric lemonade, not unpleasant to the taste. 
Dose, a tea-spoonful. 

4637. Wiegand's Syrup of Phos- 
phate of Lime. Dissolve 1 ounce precipita- 
ted phosphate of lime in 1 fluid ounce water 
by means of 4 fluid drachms muriatic acid ; 
filter, and add 65 fluid ounces water; then 
add 12 fluid ounces sugar, and strain. Dose, 
a tea-spoonful. This preparation is not so 
acid as Durand's, which is thought to be an 
advantage in some cases. 

4638. Syrup of Rhubarb. The offici- 
nal method of preparing the fluid extract of 
rhubarb employed for the syrup involves 
much concentration by evaporation, and re- 
sults in an unsightly preparation, and liable 
to an objectional resinous precipitation. By 
a modified process a fluid extract of rhubarb, 
equal to the officinal in strength, is first ob- 
tained by repercolating rhubarb, in moderate- 
ly fine powder, with a mixture of 3 parts 
officinal alcohol and 1 part water. This 
menstruum exhausts rhubarb completely 
with the greatest facility. To make the 
syrup, take of this fluid extract, 3 fluid oun- 
ces ; sugar, 28 troy ounces ; water, a sufficient 
quantity. Add the fluid extract to 12 fluid 
ounces of water, filter, make up the filtrate to 
the measure of a pint by adding water 
through the filter, and dissolve in it the sugar 
with the aid of a gentle heat, and strain 



through muslin. The result is splendid. An 
equal product is obtained by mixing the offi- 
cinal fluid extract with water, letting it re- 
pose some hours, filtering, and then complet- 
ing as above. 

4639. Syrup of Rhubarb and Sen- 
na. Digest for 14 days 6 ounces each 
bruised rhubarb root and senna leaves, and 
I3 ounces cardamom seeds, in 6 pints dilute 
alcohol; filter, and evaporate to 3 pints. 
Mix 12 ounces of this with syrup made of 2 
pounds sugar evaporated to I5 pints, and mix 
while hot. This produces a syrup of 30° 
Baume, which will not ferment. 

4640. Stewart's Simple Syrup of 
Rhubarb. Macerate 6 ounces bruised rhu- 
barb in 4 ounces dilute alcohol ; press and 
filter, and evaporate to 2 pints. Mix 8 fluid 
ounces of this tincture with 28 fluid ounces 
simple syrup. 

4641. Procter's Compound Syrup of 
Hypophosphites. Take of hypophosphite 
of lime, 256 grains /hypophosphite of soda, 192 
grains; b>T)ophosphite of potassa, 128 grains; 
hyposulphate of iron (recently precipitated), 
96 grains ; white sugar, 9 ounces ; extract of 
vaniUa, 5 ounce. Dissolve the salts of lime, 
soda, and potassa, in six ounces of water ; put 
the iron salt in a mortar and gradually add a 
solution of hypophosphorus acid till it is dis- 
solved. To this add the solution of the other 
salts, after it has been rendered slightly acid- 
ulous with the same acid, and then water, till 
the whole measm-es 12 fluid ounces. Dissolve 
in this the sugar, with heat, and flavor with 
the vaniUa. Without flavoring, this syrup is 
not unpleasant. 

4642. Hypophosphite of Iron. Hy- 
pophosphite of iron is obtained when 128 
grains of hypophosphite of soda, dissolved in 
2 ounces of water, are decomposed with a 
slight excess of solution of persulphate of 
iron, and the white precipitate weU washed 
on a filter with water. 

4643. Parrish's Compound Syrup of 
Hjrpophosphites. Take of hypophosphite 
of lime, 1^ ounces ; hypophosphite of soda, i 
ounce; hypophosphite of potassa, i ounce; 
cane sugar, 1 pound, troy; hot water, 20 
fluid ounces; orange water, 1 fluid ounce. 
Make a solution of the mixed salts in the hot 
water, filter through paper, dissolve the sugar 
in the solution by the aid of heat; strain, and 
add the orange-flower water. Dose, a tea- 
spoonful, containing nearly five grains of the 
mixed salts. 

4644. Compound Syrup of Phosphate 
of Iron. Dissolve 10 drachms protosulphate 
of non in 2 fluid ounces boiling water ; also 
dissolve 12 drachms phosphate of soda in 4 
fluid ounces boiling water ; mix the solutions 
and wash the precipitated phosphate of iron 
till the washings are tasteless. Dissolve 12 
drachms phosphate of lime in 4 fluid ounces 
boiling water with sufficient muriatic acid to 
make a clear solution, precipitate it with 
water of ammonia, and wash the precipitate. 
To these two precipitates add 20 di'achms 
glacial phosphoric acid dissolved in water-, 
when dear add 2 scruples carbonate of soda, 
and 1 drachm carbonate of potassa. Next 
add sufficient muriatic acid to dissolve the 
precipitate ; and lastly 2 drachms powdered 
cochineal mixed with 3 pounds (troy) sugar ; 



MEDICATED SYRUPS. 



4.27 



apply heat, and, Trhen the syrup is formed, 
strain. It is a question whether a simple 
syrup of phosphate of iron is not equally effi- 
cacious with Professor Pamsh's more compli- 
cated preparation given above, and known as 
Parrish's Chemical Food. Each tea-spoonful 
contains 1 grain phosphate of iron, 21 grains 
phosphate of lime, with smaller quantities 
of the alkaline phosphates, all in perfect so- 
lution. 

4645. Chemical Food. This is pre- 
pared by the same formula as Professor Par- 
rish's {see No. 4644), omitting the cochineal 
and muriatic acid, and with this modification 
was adopted, as well as the two following 
receipts, by the isTewark Pharmaceutical As- 
sociation. 

4646. Compound Sjrrup of Hypo- 
pliospliites and Iron. Dissolve 256 grains 
each of the hypophosphites of soda, lime, and 
potassa, and 126 grains hypophosphite of 
iron, in 12 ounces water, by means of a 
water-bath. Filter, and add sufficient water 
to make up for the evaporation. Add 18 
ounces sugar by gentle heat, to make 21 fluid 
ounces syrup. Each fluid ounce contains 12 
grains each of the hypophosphites of soda, 
Hme, and potassa, and 6 grains hypophosphite 
of iron. (Xeicark P. A.) 

4647. Compound Syrup of Hypo- 
phosphites. Prepared by the same formula 
as the last, omitting the iron. (Xeicark 
P. A.) 

4648. Aitken's Syrup of Iron, duinia, 
and Sfcrychnia. Dissolve 5 drachms sul- 
phate of iron in 1 ounce of boiling water, and 
1 ounce phosphate of soda in 2 ounces of the 
same. Mix the solutions and wash the pre- 
cipitates on strainers until the washings are 
tasteless ; dissolve 192 grains sulphate of 
quinia with sufficient sulphuric acid in 2 oun- 
ces of water, precipitate the clear solution by 
a very slight excess of water of ammonia, col- 
lect and carefully wash it. Dissolve both 
precipitates, and also 6 grains strychnia, in 14 
ounces dilute phosphoric acid, then add 14 
ounces white sugar, and dissolve the whole 
without heat. This syrup contains about one 
grain of phosphate of strychnia in each 
drachm. The dose might therefore be about 
a tea-spoonful 3 times a day. It is perfectly 
miscible with water, has a strongly styptic 
and chalybeate taste, and an after-taste of 
quinia. It is employed mainly as a prepara- 
tive to the use of cod-liver oil, and in certain 
cases as a concomitant to this food substitute 
in scrofulous diseases, in cases of delicate 
children, with equal parts of the phosphatic 
syrup known as chemical food. 

4649. Santonate of Soda. Put into a 
flask, 2 ounces santoniuic acid, 4 fluid ounces 
pure caustic soda lye, and 12 fluid ounces dis- 
tilled water. Heat the flask in a sand-bath 
or over a stove to 70° or 80° Fahr., until the j 
santonine solution is complete ; which usually i 
requires about half an hour ; then remove ' 
from the fire, and, when cold, it is convenient- 
ly evaporated. 

4650. Syrup of Santonate of Soda. 
Boil 18 fluid ounces syrup until it marks 32° 
Baum6 ; let it cool a few minutes, then add 
30 grains santonate of soda dissolved in 1 
ounce distilled water. You obtain 18 fluid 
ounces of a transparent syrup, without a bit- 



ter taste, of 35° when cold. Each fluid 
ounce contains one grain of santonine. This 
syrup is an excellent vermifuge. 

4651. Syrup of Ipecacuanha. Mix 2 
fluid ounces officinal fluid extract of ipecacu- 
anha with 30 fluid ounces syrup. ( U. S. Pli). 
This syrup is said to become cfoudy occasion- 
ally, and the following preparation claims to 
be free from this objection. 

Moisten 2 troy ounces ipecacuanha with 1 
fluid ounce diluted alcohol, and let it stand 
for 24 hours. Then transfer it to a conical 
percolator, and gradually pour upon it diluted 
alcohol until 1 pint of tiacture has passed. 
Evaporate this by means of a water-bath to 
6 fluid ounces, add 10 fluid ounces warm wa- 
ter, and, having rubbed it thoroughly with 45 
grains carbonate of magnesia, in a mortar, 
filter, and add sufficient warm water through 
the filter to make the filtrate measure 1 pint ; 
then add 29 troy oimces sugar, and dissolve it 
with the aid of a gentle heat, and, having 
strained the hot syrup, add sufficient warm 
water, through the strainer, to make it mea- 
sure 2 pints when cold. 

The same advantages are claimed for a 
syrup made in the following manner : — To 2 
fluid ounces of the fluid extract made by re- 
percolation, add 2 fluid ounces water and 
heat the mixture to the boiling point ; then 
add 12 fluid ounces water, filter, and pour 
sufficient water through the filter to make the 
hquid measure 1 pint ; in this dissolve 28 troy 
ounces sugar with the aid of heat, and strain 
through muslin. Both preparations will be 
perfectly clear, beautiful, and identical in 
strength and appearance, the latter possessing 
the natural odor and taste of ipecacuanha in 
an eminent degree. 

4652. Compound Syrup of Squills. 
Take 4 troy ounces squill in Xo. 30 powder, 
and the same of seneka in Xo. 50 powder, 
mix them together, moisten with k pint di- 
luted alcohol, and allow it to stand for an 
hour. Then transfer it to a conical percola- 
tor and pour diluted alcohol upon it until 3 
pints of tincture have passed. Boil this for 
a few minutes, evaporate it by means of a wa- 
ter-bath to 1 pint, add 6 fluid ounces of boil- 
ing water, rub the liquid with 1 troy ounce 
carbonate of mangnesia in a mortar till thor- 
oughly mixed, filter, and add through the fil- 
ter suMcient warm water to make the filtrate 
measure 22 fluid ounces. , Dissolve 42 troy 
ounces sugar in the filtered liquid, and, 
having heated the solution to the boiling 
point, strain it while hot. Then dissolve 48 
grains tartrate of antimony and potassa in the 
solution while still hot, and add sufficient 
boiling water, through the strainer, to make 
it measure 3 pints when cold. Lastly, mix 
the whole thoroughly together. The 'above 
process is similar to that laid down in the U. 
S. Ph., except in the addition of magnesia 
before filtration, this being considered an im- 
provement, as the gummy nature of the squills 
renders filtration unsatisfactory without it. 

This syrup may also be prepared from the 
fluid extracts of squill and of seneka, by mix- 
ing 4 fluid ounces of each, evaporating the 
mixture by means of a sand-bath to a syrupy 
consistence ; triturating this with the carbonate 
of magnesia, and proceeding precisely as in 
the above formula. 



4r28 



MEDICATED SYBUPS. 




4653. Syrup of Ether. TKe combina- 
tion of sulpliuric ether with, simple syrup, as 
usually prepared, is very unsatisfactory, 
whether for use alone, or mixed with other 
ingredients; a portion of the ether always 
separates and floats on the surface of the mix- 
ture, bringing with it also some impurities of 
the syrup. In pouring out a portion from 
the bottle containing it, the floating layer of 
ether and scum will come first, unless these 
be again mixed in by agitating the bottle. 
The following improvement is taken from 
the Paris Codex : Provide a bottle which has 
a small neck inserted in the side close to the 
bottom {see illustration) ; this, as well as the 
upper neck, should 
have a closely-fitting 
cork. The bottle must 
be of a size to contain 
1 pint simple syrup 
and 1 ounce sulphuric 
ether. Insert these in 
it and shake well 3 or 
4 times a day for 6 
days; after which, if 
allowed to repose, a 
thin film of ether wiU 
rise and float on the 
surface of the syrup, 
separated from it by a 
layer of scum. The 
syrup, which is now saturated with ether, can 
be drawn through the lower neck, as required; 
it will be perfectly free from impurity, and 
no further separation of ether will take 
place. 

4654. Compound Syrup of Black 
Cohosh. Macerate 2 ounces black cohosh 
(black snake-root), 1 ounce seneka root, I 
ounce liquorice root, and \ ounce ipecacuanha 
root in dilute alcohol for 24 hours ; then 
transfer to a percolator and run through two 
pints; evaporate the excess of alcohol by a 
water-bath, and convert into a syrup with 
sufficient quantity of sugar; lastly, treat 2 
ounces wild cherry bark with half a pint 
of cold water, which add to the syrup pre- 
viously cooled. 

4655. Compound Syrup of Sarsa- 
parilla. Eeduce the following to moderately 
coarse powder, adopting the troy ounce 
throughout : 24 ounces sarsapariUa, 3 ounces 
guaiacum wood, 2 ounces each pale rose, 
senna, and liquorice root. Mix with 3 pints 
diluted alcohol, and allow the mixture to 
stand for 24 hours. Transfer to a cylindrical 
percolator, and displace 10 pints with diluted 
alcohol. Evaporate by a water-bath to 4 
pints ; filter, and add 96 ounces coarsely 
powdered sugar by the aid of heat, and strain 
while hot. Lastly take 5 minims each of the 
oils of sassafras and anise ; and 3 minims oil 
of gaultheria ; rub these oils with a small 
portion of the solution, and mix them 
thoroughly with the remainder. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4656. Scovill's Compound Syrup of 
SarsapariUa. Take 8 ounces each sarsa- 
pariUa, burdock root and yeUow dock; 6 oun- 
ces stillingia root (queen's root), 2 ounces 
turkey pea, 4 ounces false bitter-sweet, 3 
ounces dandelion root, 3 ounces juniper ber- 
ries, 1 ounce prickly-ash berries, 2 ounces 
guaiacum wood, and 9 ounces bamboo briar 
root. Coarsely bruise the above ingredients^ 



and moisten them with alcohol. Let them 
stand 2 or 3 days, then put them in a steam 
displacement apparatus, and pass through the 
vapor of 3 pints strong alcohol. Continue 
the displacement with the steam of water till 
the strength is exhausted; set aside the 3 
pints of tincture which first passed, and evap- 
orate the remaining decoctions to 1 quart ; 
mix this with the tincture, add 3 quarts 
sugar-house syrup, and, when cold, add 1|- 
ounces iodide of potassium. 

4657. Osborne's Syrup. This is one 
of the most valuable preparations that can be 
made for children. Simmer llj drachms 
each, rhubarb root, anise seed, and liquorice 
root, in 45 ounces boiling water over a slow 
fire till reduced to two-thirds. Then make a 
syrup with 4f troy pounds white sugar, add 
2 yI drachms each manna and compound 
tincture of opium (paregoric), and 225 grains 
salt of tartar. In warm weather, add a wine- 
glass of French brandy. 

4658. Syrup of Seneka. Evaporate 4 
fluid ounces of the fluid extract {see No. 4598) 
by means of a sand or water-bath to a syrupy 
liquid, triturate this with ^ ounce carbonate 
magnesia, and gradually add 8 fluid ounces 
of water, constantly stirring; filter, and 
add sufficient water, through the filter, to 
make the liquid measure 8 fluid ounces, then 
dissolve in it 16 troy ounces sugar, with the 
aid of heat, and strain through muslin while 
hot. The product, for its permanence and 
elegant appearance, cannot be surpassed. To 
prepare tins syrup directly from a fluid ex- 
tract by merely mixing that with simple syrup, 
would render the preparation uncommonly 
thin, and introduce an excessively large pro- 
portion of alcohol, which would be an un- 
questionable and serious objection. 

4659. Compound Chloroform Syrup. 
This formula for an anodyne containing 
chloroform will remain combined and mis 
readily with either spirit or water. Macerate 
for 2 or 3 days 16 grains resin of cannabis, 2 
grains capsicum, and 8 drops oil of pepper- 
mint in 4 drachms chloroform and Ik drachms 
ether ; filter the product. To about 1 ounce 
syrup add ^ drachm each of water and per- 
chloric acid, and dissolve in this by a water- 
bath, 16 grains muriate of morphia; when 
cold add 96 minims Scheele's hydrocyanic 
acid, add to this the filtrate first made, and 
syrup sufficient to make the whole up to 4 
ounces. 

4660. Syrup of Chloride of Iron. 
Mix i troy otmce chloride of iron with 1 

pint simple syrup. Flavoring may be adde^ 
to taste. Dose, a teaspoonful, as a tonic and 
astringent, adapted to weak and relaxed con- 
ditions of the stomach and bowels, and to 
anaemic symptoms generally. Parrish. 

The syrup of the protochloride of iron is 
prepared by dissolving 1 drachm dry proto- 
chloride of iron (ferrous chloride) in k troy 
ounce orange-flower water; mix separately 
Ah troy ounces syrup of orange flower with 20 
troy ounces syrup of acacia; add the iron 
solution to the syrup mixture. Each table- 
spoonful of this preparation contains about 1^ 
grains of the protochloride of iron. Pharm. 
Soc. of Paris. 

For preparing the syrup of perchloride of 
iron, Dr. Duroy proposes combining 2 parts 



MEDICATED SYBUPS. 



429 



somtion of perchloride of iron, (ferric chlor- 
ide) specific gravity 30° Baume, with 100 
parts distilled water, and 25 parts syrup 
of orange flower. This will contain 1 per 
cent, of the iron salt. Paris Codex. 

4661. Syrup of Lactate of Iron. 
Dissolve 1 drachm lactate of iron in 6 fluid 
ounces boiling water, and add 12 drachms 
sugar. Dose, 2 to 4 tea-spoonfuls. 

4662. Syrup of Bark and Chloride of 
Iron. Take 1 pint of the saccharine tinc- 
ture of red bark, 'add to this 160 minims each 
syrup of chloride of iron and hydrochloric 
acid. This contains 120 grains of red bark 
and 10 drops of syrup chloride iron to each 
fluid ounce. If it be desirable to mix in any 
other proportion, add one measure of hydro- 
chloric acid for each measure of syrup of 
chloride of iron. This is a deep red, clear 
tincture, rather pleasantly bitter; if any 
doubt exists as to whether it has blackened, 
add dilute alcohol to a small quantity, until it 
becomes transparent enough to observe it 
thoroughlv. 

4663. ' Lahache's Syrup of Iodide of 
Potassium and Iron. Take of iodide of 
potassium, 308 grains ; iodide of iron (in so- 
lution 1 to 3), 230 gi-ains; orange-flower 
water, 462 grains ; simple syrup (concentra- 
ted), 335 flnid ounces ; dissolve the iodide of 
potassium in the orange-flower water, add the 
other solution and incorporate the syrup. 
Preserve it cool and free from light. 

4664. Syrup of Tannate of Iron. 
Citrate of iron, 2h drachms dissolved in 1 ounce 
diluted acetic acid, is added to 12 ounces sim- 
ple syrup, 3 ounces raspberry syrup, and 1 
drachm extract of galls rubbed up with a por- 
tion of the syrup. 

4665. Phillip's Syrup of Sesquichlor- 
ide of Iron. Dissolve 286 grains sesquioxide 
of iron in 1200 grains hydrochloric acid and 2 
ounces water. Filter, and add 16 ounces 
simple syrup. Dose, a tea-spoonful. 

4666. Syrup of Lactucariiim. Tritu- 
rate 1 troy ounce lactucarium to powder, and 
heat it with 8 fluid ounces water to the boiling 
point; maintain the temperature for a few 
moments, then strain by wringing through 
muslin; add to the strained liquid gradually, 
and with constant tritm-ation, 120 grains car- 
bonate of magnesia; filter through paper, 
pouring sufficient water through the filter to 
make the filtrate measure 8 fluid ounces, in 
which dissolve 14 troy ounces sugar with 
heat, and strain through mushn. This makes 
an excellent syrup and of fine appearance. 

4667. French Syrup of Balsam of 
Copaiba. Triturate 2^ drachms calcined 
magnesia with the yolk of 4 eggs; thoroughly 
mix with this 62 ounces balsam copaiba, and 
add lOi ounces simple syrup. This prepara- 
tion keeps well. 

4668. French Syrup of Santonin. 
Dissolve 55-^ grains santonin in a little 
alcohol, add it to 16 troy ounces boiling 
simple syrup. The strength of the syrup will 
De about 3 grains to the ounce. 

4669. Moore's Syrup of Tar. Take 
of tar (strained), 1 ounce (troy); pulverized 
sugar (refined), 12 ounces; carbonate of mag- 
nesia, 3 ounces, rubbed to powder on a sieve; 
alcohol, 2 fluid ounces. Mix the alcohol with 
6 fluid ounces of water, rub the tar in a mor- 



tar of sufficient capacity with 1 ounce of the 
sugar, and then with the carbonate of magne- 
sia, gradually added, until the whole is re- 
duced to a uniform, pulverulent mixture. To 
this gradually add, with constant trituration, 
which should be continued for 15 or 20 min- 
utes, 4 fluid ounces of the mixture of alcohol 
and water; then strain with strong expres- 
sion. Return the residue to the mortar, and 
again triturate, first with 1 ounce of the sugar 
and then with the remaining 4 fluid ounces of 
the mixture of alcohol and water, gradually 
added, as before ; finally strain and strongly 
express, and then reduce the dregs by tritura- 
tion to a smooth and uniform condition, and 
pack firmly in a glass funnel prepared for 
percolation, and adjusted to the neck of a 
graduated bottle containing the remainder of 
the sugar, and pour upon this the expressed 
liquid ; and when it has all disappeared from 
the surface, continue the percolation with 
water until the whole measures 1 pint. Agi- 
tate occasionally, until the sugar is dissolved, 
and strain if necessary. Dose from a dessert 
to a table-spoonful. The strained tar, such as 
is usually sold in gallon cans, answers well for 
this purpose, but when it is not at hand the 
crude tar may be dissolved in a small quan- 
tity of ether, and strained, and the ether 
allowed to evaporate spontaneously. 

4670. Syrup of Capsicum. Take of 
cayenne pepper in fine powder, 2 drachms; 
carbonate of magnesia, 1 drachm; sugar, in 
coarse powder, 14 ounces, troy. Rub the 
cayenne pepper first with the carbonate of 
mangnesia and sugar, and then with 1 fluid 
ounce of alcohol, and slowly pour in water 
until 6 fluid ounces have been added. The 
whole is then to be transferred to a proper 
filter ; and when the liquor has ceased to pass, 
pour on water until 9 fluid ounces of filtered 
liquor are obtained. To this add the remain- 
der of the sugar, and by a gentle heat form a 
pint of syrup. Made in this manner syrup of 
capiscum is a pungent yellowish-brown syrup, 
each tea-spoonful of which contains nearly 2 
grains of cayenne pepper 

4671. Syrup of Valerianate of Am- 
monia. Take of valerianic acid, 2 fluid 
drachms ; dilute alcohol, i fluid ounce. Sat- 
urate the valerianic acid with carbonate of 
ammonia, having previously mixed it with 
the diluted alcohol, then add the syrup 
sufficient to make k pint. Dose, a fluid 
drachm containing 2 grains of the valerianate. 

4672. Syrup of Stillingia (Queen's 
Root). Take of queen's root, 3 pounds; 
prickly-ash berries, 1^ pounds ; refined sugar, 
18 pounds. Grind and mix the articles 
together; place the whole Ai pounds in a 
convenient vessel, cover them with alco- 
hol of 76 per cent., and macerate for three 
days. Then transfer the whole to a displace- 
ment apparatus, and gradually add alcohol 
until 5 pints of the alcoholic tincture have 
been obtained, which retain and set aside. 
Then continue the percolation with water 
until the liquor passes almost tasteless, add 
the sugar to it, and evaporate by gentle heat 
until 13 pints are obtained, to which add the 
reserved 5 pints of alcoholic tincture, and 
make 18 pints of syrup. It may be flavored 
with a sufficient quantity of the essence of 
sassafras if required. {Am. Dis). 



4r30 



MEDICATED SYEUPS. 



4673. Compound Syrup of Stillingia 
(Queen's Root). Take queen^s root and 
root of turkey corn, of each 2 pounds ; blue 
flag-root, elder flowers, and pipsissewa leaves, 
of each 1 pound ; coriander seed and prickly- 
ash berries of each i pound. Grind and mix 
the articles together; place the whole 8 
pounds in a convenient vessel, cover them 
with alcohol of 76 per cent., and macerate for 
three days. Then convey the whole to a 
displacement apparatus, and gradually add 
alcohol until 4 pints of the alcoholic tincture 
have been obtained, which retain and set 
aside. Then continue the percolation with 
water, and of this second solution reserve so 
much as contains a sensible amount of spirit, 
and distill or evaporate the alcohol from it. 
Continue the displacement by water until the 
solution obtained is almost tasteless, and boil 
down this weaker infusion until, when added 
to the second solution after the evaporation 
of its alcohol, it will make 24 pints. To 
these two solutions combined, add 24 pounds 
of refined sugar and dissolve it by heat, care- 
fully removing any scum which arises as it 
comes to the point of boiling ; and if it ex- 
ceeds 28 pints, evaporate to that point with 
constant stirring. Then remove from the 
fire, and, when nearly cold, add the 4 pints of 
reserved alcoholic tincture, and make 4 gal- 
lons of syrup, each pint of which will be 
equal to 4 ounces of the ingredients in medi- 
cinal virtue. (Am. Dis.) 

4674. German Syrup of Rhubarb. 
Take of alkaline fluid extract of rhubarb, 3 
fluid ounces {see No. 4591); oil of cinnamon, 
3 minims; sugar, 36 troy ounces. Mix the 
oil of cinnamon with the fluid extract, then 
add sufficient water to make the whole mix- 
ture weigh 20 troy ounces; in this dissolve 
the sugar with the aid of heat, and strain. 
The above formula for syrup of rhubarb, of 
the Prussian phaiTuacopoeia, is in officinal pro- 
portions, and yields a strictly officinal result. 

4675. Alkaline Syrup Rhubarb. 
Take of alkaline fluid extract of rhubarb, 6 
fluid ounces {see No. 4591); oil of cinnamon, 
3 minims; sugar, 36 troy ounces. Mix the 
oil of cinnamon with the fluid extract ; then 
add sufficient water to make the whole mix- 
ture weigh 20 troy ounces; in this dissolve 
the sugar, with the aid of heat, and strain. 

4676. Syrup of Guaiac. Decidedly 
the most agreeable manner of administering 
guaiac in liquid fonn, so far as tried, is that 
of a syrup prepared as follows: Take of 
guaiac, 1 ounce ; solution of potassa, -J fluid 
ounce ; sugar, 14 ounces, troy. Macerate the 
guaiac in the solution of potassa mixed with 
2 fluid ounces of water for 2 or 3 days ; then 
percolate with water till 8 fluid ounces of 
liquid are obtained, in which dissolve the 
sugar. 

4677. Procter's Syrup of Tolu. Bal- 
sam of tolu and carbonate of magnesia, of 
each, -J ounce ; alcohol, 1 fluid ounce ; refined 
sugar, 2i pounds. Triturate the balsam of 
tolu and carbonate of magnesia together with 
1 ounce of the sugar, gradually adding the 
alcohol, and then water enough to make the 
whole measure 12 fluid ounces. Filter, add 
water enough to make 1 pint of filtrate, to 
which add the rest of the sugar, and dissolve 
by a very gentle heat. If required, strain 



the syrup, while hot, through a damp cotton- 
fiannel bag. This forms a beautiful, clear 
syrup, free from turbidness, possessing a de- 
cided taste of the balsam, with most of its 
medicinal virtues. 

4678. Syrup of Chamomile. Take of 
fluid extract of chamomile, 4 ounces ; syrup, 
12 ounces. Mix with the syrup moderately 
warm, and strain through flannel. The pre- 
paration is as clear as that made from the 
flowers, with the convenience of being made 
at will. The dose is one-fourth that of the 
fluid extract, or from 2 to 4 drachms. 

4679. Syrup of Hydrate of Chloral. 
Mix together 2 scruples hydrate of chloral, 1 
drachm water, and 7 drachms simple syrup. 

4680. Syrup of Citric Acid. Dis- 
solve 60 grains citric acid in fine powder in 
sufficient warm or hot water, and add the so- 
lution to 16 fluid ounces syrup containing 30 
minims spirits of lemon, shaking them all to- 
gether until thoroughly mixed. Syrup made 
according to this formula has a better appear- 
ance, and retains its brilliance and flavor 
longer than that prepared according to the 
U. S. Pharmacopoeia. 

4681. Compound Syrup of Hemlock. 
Bruise well 2 ounces each of water hemlock 
(Phellandrium aquaticum) seeds, queen's-root 
(stillingia silvatica), and red Peruvian bark. 
Simmer them with 2 pints boiling water for 
20 minutes ; and, when cold, strain. Then 
evaporate to 1 pint, add 2 pounds white 
sugar, dissolve with a gentle heat, removing 
any scum that may arise, and strain the mix- 
ture while hot. Dose : 1 to 3 drachms 3 or 4 
times daily. 

4682. Cadet's Compound Syrup of 
Ipecacuanha. Mix 2 ounces each syrup of 
ipecacuanha and syrup of poppies, 1 ounce 
syrup of orange flowers, and I5 oxymel of 
squill. 2 tea-spoonfuls constitute a dose in 
whooping-cough. 

4683. Compound Syrup of Yellow- 
dock. Grind and mix together 2 pounds yel- 
low-dock root (rumex), 1 pound bark of false 
bitter-sweet root, i pound American ivy bark, 
and i pound figwort. Cover them with 76 per 
cent, alcohol, and let them stand for 2 days. 
Then displace through a percolator with hot 
water 2 pints extract, which reserve. Con- 
tinue the percolation with hot water, and re- 
serve so much of this second solution as con- 
tains a sensible amount of spirit, distill the 
alcohol from it, and set it also aside. Continue 
the displacement with hot water until near 
exhaustion, and boil down this until, when 
mixed with the second solution, the two com- 
bined will make 12 pints. To the mixture of 
these two add 16 pounds refined sugar ; dis- 
solve by heat, carefully removing the scum, 
evaporate to 14 pints. When nearly cold add 
the 2 pints first reserved alcoholic tincture, 
making in all 2 gallons syrup. Each pint 
will contain the virtue of 4 ounces of the ingre- 
dients. {Am. Dis.) 

4684. Corvisart's Syrup of Pepsine. 
Heat 15 parts by weight of syrup of cherries 
to 70° or 75° Fahr.; mix with 1 part starchy 
pepsine, and, after 30 minutes, filter. 

4685. Goddard's Aromatic Black- 
berry Syrup. Make a syrup of the follow- 
ing ingredients : 2 pints blackberry juice, 1 
pound sugar, 1 pint brandy, 6 nutmegs 



OXYM EL — ELIXIRS. 



431 



grated, | ounce bruised cionamon, 2 drachms 
cloves, and 2 drachms allspice. The astrin- 
gent properties of blackberry juice adapt it, 
parti culary in combination with carminatives, 
to the treatment of bowel complaints. 

4686. Compound Syrup of Assafoe- 
tida. The disagreeable smell and taste of 
assafcetida prevents to a great extent the 
general use of this valuable drug. Mr. 
Kambo, in the Journal of Pharmacy, proposes 
the following recipe, which unites the pro- 
perties of assafcetida with those of wild cheiTy, 
and is free from above objections. Take 1 
ounce assafcetida and 2 ounces carbonate of 
magnesia ; rub these together, gradually add- 
ing 1 pint infasion of wild cherry bark, and 
filter. Transfer the filtrate to a bottle, and 
dissolve in it by agitation 24 ounces white 
sugar. This preparation resembles the syrup 
of wild cherry in appearance. 

4687. Syrup of Milk. Evaporate, with 
constant stirring, 6 pounds of skimmed milk 
to 3 pounds; add 4i pounds of sugar; dis- 
solve with a gentle heat, and strain. It may 
be flavored with the addition of 1 ounce of 
cherry-laurel water. Milk may be preserved 
by first heating it, and, when cold, charging 
it with carbonic acid gas. 

4688. Grimault's Syrup of Horse- 
radish. Hager gives the following direc- 
tions: 50 parts each of fresh scurvy-grass, 
buckbean, and watercress, 60 parts of horse- 
radish, 40 of fresh orange berries, are infused 
with 3 parts of cinnamon in 50 parts white 
wine, and, after a day, expressed; 250 parts 
sugar are dissolved in the filtrate. 

4689. Grimault's lodinized Syrup 
of Horseradish. This contains 10 parts 
iodine, and 5 parts iodine of potassium, in 
8000 parts of the above syrup of horseradish. 



An acidulous syrup mads 
'of "honey and vinegar. The ingredients 
in an oxymel should preferably be of such 
character, and in such proportions, as to pro- 
duce a mixture of the proper consistence with- 
out further evaporation. 

4691. Simple Oxymel. Liquefy by 
heat 40 ounces (avoirdupois) clarified honey, 
and mix it with 5 imperial fluid ounces each 
acetic acid and distilled water. {Br. Ph.) 

4692. Oxymel of Squills. Mix to- 
gether 1 imperial pint vinegiir of squills and 
2 pounds (avoirdupois) clarified honey. Evap- 
orate in a water-bath until it attains, when 
cold, a specific gravity of 1.32. {Br. Pit.) 

4693. Clarified Honey. Melt a con- 
venient quantity of honey by means of a wa- 
ter-bath, and then remove the scum. ( U. S. 
Ph.) 

4694. Honey of Roses. Moisten 2 
troy ounces red rose, in moderately fine pow- 
der, with ^ fluid ounce diluted alcohol ; pack 
it firmly in a conical glass percolator, and 
displace 6 fiuid drachms with diluted alcohol. 
Eeserve this, and percolate A pint more; evap- 
orate this last by a water-bath to 10 fluid 
drachms, add the reserved liquid, and mix with 
25 troy ounces clarified honey. {U. S. Ph.) 
Added to water, it makes an elegant astrin- 
gent wash and gargle for foul and tender gums, 
«ore mouth, sore throat, relaxed uvula, <fec. 



4695. Honey; of Borax. Mix together 
60 grains borate of soda in fine powder and 1 
troy ounce clarified honey. ( JJ. S. Ph. ) A 
common application in sore gums, mouth, and 
lips, in thrush, salivation, &c.; also for sore 
nipples, excoriations, &g., a little being ap- 
plied on the tip of the finger. Diluted with 
water it forms an excellent skin and mouth 
wash or lotion. 

4696. Honey of Violets. Take of ex 
pressed juice of violets (clear), 1 fluid ounce ; 
clarified honey, 2 ounces ; mix without heat 
in a glass vessel. Used chiefly as a mouth 
wash, to perfume the breath, as honey of 



Elixil*S. -A. tincture with more than 
one base; or a compound of various 
medicinal substances held in solution by alco- 
hol in some form. Under elixirs are included 
medicated wines, mixtures, &c. 

4698. Elixir of Calisaya Bark; Ke- 
duce to a moderate powder, 8 ounces Calisaya 
bark ; 4 ounces each orange peel, cinnamon, 
and coriander seed ; i ounce each anise seed, 
caraway seed, and cardamoms. Percolate the 
above ingredients with 4 pints alcohol diluted 
with 12 pints water, and add 2 pints simple 
syrup. 

4699. Ferro-phosphorated Elixir of 
Calisaya Bark. The percolate obtained in 
the last receipt, toithoui the syrup, should be 
digested with fresh hydrated oxide of iron; 
this is obtained from the solution of tincture 
of chloride of iron (prepared according to the 
formula of the U. S. Pharmacopoeia, hefore 
the alcohol is added), 8 ounces of which solu- 
tion, precipitated by sufficient ammonia, fur- 
nish the requisite quantity of hydrated oxide 
of iron. After standing for 12 to 24 hours, 
with frequent shaking, test a small quantity 
with a few drops of tincture of iron; if it 
blackens with this test, more hydrated oxide 
must be added, until all the cincho-tannic 
acid is removed, which would otherwise 
blacken the iron salt hereafter to be added. 
When the oxide of iron test ceases to blacken, 
filter the mixture. After which add 2 pints 
simple syrup, and 2 ounces pyrophosphate of 
iron dissolved in the least possible quantity 
of water. Lastly, after standing for 12 hours, 
filter the whole. This produces a beautifully 
clear and pale colored ferro-phosphorate of 
Calisaya bark of an agreeable taste, and free 
from all blackness. 

4700. Ferro-phosphorated Elixir of 
Calisaya Bark and Bismuth. This pre- 
paration is made according to the last formula, 
with the addition of 2 ounces citrate of bis- 
muth, dissolved in a sufficiency of equal parts 
of water and liquor of ammonia at a gentle 
heat. The bismuth solution is added to the 
elixir at the same time as the pyrophosphate, 
of iron, and the mixture filtered. 

4701. Elixir of Calisaya Bark and 
Bismuth. This may be prepared in the 
same manner as the ferro-phosphorated elixh* 
{see Xo. 4669) ; substituting, in the place of 
the pyrophosphate of iron, 2 ounces citrate of 
bismuth, dissolved as directed in 'No. 4700. 

4702. Elixir of Peruvian Bark and 
Protoxide of Iron. Take 4 ounces Calisaya 
bark, 1 ounce cinnamon, 1 drachm caraway 



4.32 



ELIXIBS. 



seed, and 6 ounces orange peel. Eeduce 
them to coarse powder and percolate -with 1^ 
pints each, of alcohol and water, l^ext dis- 
solve 4 ounces carbonate of iron in 4 ounces 
muriatic acid and 2 ounces nitric acid ; dilute 
the solution with 8 ounces water, and filter ; 
precipitate with sufficient liquor of ammonia, 
and wash the precipitate. Digest the wet 
precipitate with the percolated tincture for 24 
hours, with occasional shaking. This must 
then be tested with a few drops of tincture of 
iron, for any cincho-tannic acid that may be 
left. {See No. 4699.) When all the acid has 
been removed, filter, and add 2^ pints simple 
syrup, and caramel to color; lastly, for every 
fluid ounce add 3 grains pm-e crystallized sul- 
phuret of iron. This is said to be an ex- 
cellent imitation of ISTichors preparation cf 
Peruvian bark. 

4703. Sqmbb's Liquor of Iodide of 
Iron. Take of iodine, 2 ounces ; iron- wire, 
5 drachms; sugar, 12 ounces. Make this 
sugar into syrup by boiling it up with 8 fluid 
ounces distilled water, and filtering through 
paper into a flask marked at the point up to 
which it holds 20 fluid ounces. Meanwhile 
shake the iodine and iron with 3 fluid ounces 
water in a small flask until a clear green 
liquid results. Add to this a small portion of 
the syrup, and filter the whole through a new 
filter into the syrup, keeping but a small por- 
tion of the solution in the filter at a time. 
Drain, but do not wash the filter ; and, final- 
ly, add to the liquid in the bottle enough dis- 
tilled water to make up 20 fluid ounces. 
Shake it well, and keep it in small bottles, 
filled and well stoppered. 

4704. Physic's Bitter Wine of Iron. 
Take of iron filings, 3 ounces ; ginger, bruis- 
ed, gentian, bruised, each, 1 ounce; orange- 
peel, bruised, k ounce ; strong old cider, 1 
pint. Macerate in a bottle loosely corked, 
for 2 weeks or longer, then express and filter 
for use. A reaction occurs between the iron 
filings and the acid of the cider, resulting in 
the formation of malate, and perhaps some 
acetate of protoxide of iron, with the evolu- 
tion of hydrogen gas, which swells up the in- 
gredients, and requires that the maceration 
should be conducted in a bottle of twice the 
capacity of the ingredients. This preparation 
has a dark, almost black color, very bitter 
aromatic taste, and is a good, though not 
an elegant chalybeate, in the dose of a tea- 
spoonful. 

4705. HubbeU's Wine of Iron. Take 
citrate (of magnetic oxide) of iron, 128 
grains • precipitated extract of Calisaya bark, 
256 giaios. {See next receipt.) "White wine 
(shariy). 1 pint ; curapoa (the best), 5^ fluid 
ounces. ' Dissolve the precipitated extract of 
bark in & e wine by aid of a sufficient quanti- 
ty of citnc acid, then add the citrate of iron, 
filter the solution, and add to it the curapoa, 
and mix. The peculiarities of this prepara- 
tion are, that it consists of iron and cinchona, 
and yet is free from any inky taste or appear- 
ance, is perfectly transparent, of a light 
brown color not very different from that of 
sherry wine, and a bitter, not disagreeable 
taste. The label claims for it the presence of 
citrate of the magnetic oxide of iron, as the 
ferruginous ingredient. The dose of this pre- 
paration is a tea-spoonful. 



4706. Hubbell's Precipitated Extract 
of Calisaya Bark. The precipitated extract 
of bark employed by Mr. HubbeU is not the 
commercial extract, nor yet that of Wetherill, 
nor of Ellis, but is made by himself, by a 
process based on that of Mr. Herring, of Lon- 
don, for the manufacture of quinine. Any 
quantity of CaHsaya bark is treated with a so- 
lution of caustic soda (2 parts to 100 of 
water), until it has removed the coloring mat- 
ter, kinic and tannic acids, and extractive 
matters. The residue is washed with water, 
dried, and extracted with alcohol till exhaust- 
ed, and the alcohol distilled off so as to obtain 
an extract. The extract consists almost 
wholly of quinia and cinchonia, and is free 
from tannin, and, though not soluble in wine 
alone, becomes so by aid of citric acid. 

4707. Shinn's Bitter Wine of Iron. 
Take of sulphate of cinchona, 6 drachms; 
sulphate of quinia, 2 drachms ; citrate of iron, 
4 ounces ; citric acid, 1 ounce ; sherry wine, 
4 pints; alcohol, 1 pint; orange syrup, 1 
pint. Dissolve the sulphates and citric acid 
in 1^ pints of hot water, and the citrate of 
iron in i pint of the same ; mix the solutions, 
and add the other ingredients. 

4708. Aromatic Wine of Iron. Di- 
gest 1 ounce iron filings for 2 or 3 days in 3 
fluid ounces lemon juice ; add ^ ounce each 
bruised gentian and cinnamon, and 16 ounces 
Ehenish (or sherry) wine. After 24 hours de- 
cant and filter. Gentian contains no tannin, 
and will not blacken the iron in the solution. 

4709. To Prevent Sediment in Pre- 
I)arations of Peruvian Bark. The forma- 
tion of a sediment in this and other simple 
preparations of Peruvian bark may be avoided 
by displacing or digesting its powder first 
with a solution of soda which wiU extract the 
tannin, kinovin, <fec. ; after washing off the 
last traces of the alkali by means of water, 
the alcoholic or vinous tincture may then be 
prepared as usual, and will remain clear, be- 
cause free from the principles extracted by 
the alkaline solution. The alkaloids of the 
bark do not dissolve in weak mineral alkalies. 

4710. Cottereau's Wine of Cinchonia 
is made as follows: Dissolve 24 grains sul- 
phate of cinchonia in 2 pints Madeira wine, 
and Alter. Dose, 1 to 4 ounces. 

4711. Wine of Calisaya Bark. Di- 
gest 1 part powdered Peruvian bark in 12 parts 
white wine for 24 hours, and filter. A similar 
preparation may be made of 20 parts of red 
wine and 1 part extract of Peruvian bark. 

4712. Aromatic Mixture of Iron. 
Take Peruvian bark in powder, 1 ounce ; co- 
lumba root in coarse powder, 3 drachms ; 
bruised cloves, 2 drachms; filings of iron, 
separated by a magnet, 5 ounce; digest 
for 3 days with occasional agitation m a 
covered vessel, with as much peppermint 
water as will give 12 ounces of a filtered pro- 
duct, and then add compound tincture of car- 
damoms, 3 fluid ounces, and tincture of 
orange peel, 2 fluid drachms. This mixture 
should be kept in a well-stoppered bottle. 
Properties, tonic, and valuable in various 
states of debility; dose from i to 2 fluid 
ounces. 

4713. Procter's Rennet Wine. Take 
of fresh rennets (about 3), 24 troy ounces; 
chloride of sodium, 3 ounces ; alcohol, 6 fluid 



MLIXIBS. 



4.33 



otmces-, white wine, 16 fluid ounces. "Wash 
the rennets in water until perfectly clean, cut 
them up, and macerate them for 14 days with 
frequent agitation in the wine, then add the 
alcohol, and filter for use. Dose, 1 tea-spoon- 
ful immediately after eating. 

4714. Wine of Wild Cherry Bark. 
Professor Parrish gives the following formula 
m his " Elements of Pharmacy.^' Alcoholic 
extract (from 24 ounces) of wild cherry bark, 
54 ounces ; sweet almonds, 3 ounces ; water, 1 
pint; and cherry wine, 2 pints. Beat the 
almonds with the water to a paste, rub down 
the extract with k pint of the wine, and mix 
the two liquids in a bottle of the capacity of 
3 pints, stop it closely, and permit it to stand 
for 3 days, with occasional agitation ; then 

^add the remainder of the wine, allow it to 
stand a week, and filter. By this mode of 
proceeding, opportunity is afforded for the 
development of the hydrocyanic acid before 
the menstruum is made so alcohohc as to re- 
tard the reaction which favors its formation. 
Thus made, wine of wild cherry bark is a 
transparent, wine-red liquid, having an as- 
tringent bitter-almond taste and odor. The 
dose of this preparation as a tonic and sedative 
is a tea- spoonful. 

471 5. Ferrated Wine of Wild Cherry. 
Exhaust 12 ounces bruised wild cherry bark 
of its tonic principles with alcohol, and care- 
fully evaporate the alcoholic tincture so as to 
expel the alcohol ; add 6 ounces water and ^ 
ounce hydrated sesquioxide of iron. Mace- 
rate this with occasional agitation for 6 hours, 
and filter into a bottle containing an emulsion 
of 2 ounces sweet almonds in 6 ounces water. 
TVhen reaction has ceased, filter again, and 
add 12 ounces white sugar, and for every 
ounce thus prepared, add 24 grains citrate of 
iron, previously dissolved in water snfficient 
to make the whole fluid extract measure 24 
fluid ounces. The addition of iron to the bit- 
ter principle and hydrocyanic acid of the sim- 
ple extract of wild cherry should render it 
much more efficient as a tonic, and greatly 
add to the value of the preparation. 

4716. Ferrated Elixir of Wild Cherry. 
Take of fluid extract of wild cherry bark, 4 
fluid ounces ; curagoa cordial^ 11 fluid ounces ; 
pyrophosphate of iron, 256 grains ; boiling 
water, 1 fluid ounce. Mix the fluid extract 
with the curagoa cordial. Dissolve the pyro- 
phosphate of iron in the boiling water, and 
mix all together. Dose, a tea-spoonful 3 times 
daily. 

4717. Elixir de Garus. Digest 2 parts 
by weight each of aloes and myrrh, and 1 part 
Spanish safiron, in 24 parts of 60 per cent. 
alcohol, and 2 of diluted sulphuric acid. 
Filter. 

Or : Digest for some hours 3 parts by 
weight each of aloes and myrrh, and 2 parts 
each of nutmegs and cloves, in 576 parts rec- 
tified spirit diluted with an equal weight of 
water. Then add 864 parts orange-flower 
syrup, 192 parts orange-flower water and 2 
each of cochineal and Spanish saffron. Filter. 
Dose of either of the above preparations, 1 
tea-spoonful 3 or 4 times a day. {Prussian 
Ph.) 

4718. Elixir of Pepsine. Dissolve 1 
part by weight starchy pepsine in 8 parts wa- 
ter ; filter the solution, and add 3 parts elixir 



of garus and 4 parts syrup of cherries. Dose, 
1, 2 or 3 table-spoonfuls twice during the 
meals. 

4719. Corvisart's Elixir of Pepsine. 
Saturate 1 part by weight starchy pepsine 
with 15 parts elixir of garus. Macerate for 
half an hour in a covered vessel, and filter 
through wetted paper. Dose, 1 table-spoonful 
before or during meals. 

4720. Mialhe's Elixir of Pepsine. 
Macerate 1 part by weight of starchy pepsine, 
and 5 parts sugar, in 2 parts proof spirit, 9 
parts white wine, and 4 parts water, until the 
sugar is dissolved ; then filter. Dose, 1 table- 
spoonful before or during meals. This has aii 
agreeable taste. 

4721. French Pepsine Wine. This is 
prepared by macerating starchy pepsine in 20 
times its weight of white wine. 

4722. Wine of Beef and Iron. Dis- 
solve 1 ounce Liebig's extract of meat in 4 
ounces water and \ drachm bruised allspice; 
after standing 10 hours add 16 ounces sherry 
wine and 2 ounces syrup. Then dissolve 96 
grains citrate of iron in 2 ounces water. Mix, 
filter, and add water to make the whole 24 
fluid ounces. Each ounce contains 1 ounce 
fresh beef and 4 grains citrate of iron. Dose, 
1 table-spoonful. This and the 6 following 
formulae have been adopted by the N"ewark 
Pharmaceutical Association. 

4723. Nutritive Wine. This is pre- 
pared in the same manner as the last receipt,, 
omitting the citrate of iron. {Newarlc P. A.)^ 

4724. Elixir of Pepsine, Bismuth, and 
Strychnia. Triturate 256 grains Hawley's 
pepsine with 2 ounces glycerine in 4 ounces 
water; dissolve 64 grains citrate of bismuth, 2 
ounces orange-flower water, and add to the 
pepsine ; then add 2 ounces deodorized alcohol,. 
4 ounces orange-flower water, 2 ounces syrup, 
and lastly 1 grain strychnia dissolved in a 
few drops acetic. Each fluid ounce contains : 
pepsine, 16 grains; citrate of bismuth, 4 grains ; 
strychnia, ^V grain. {Newark P. A,) 

4725. Ferro-Phosphorated Elixir of 
Gentian. Take 1 drachm each coriander 
and mace ; 1 ounce orange peel, 1 ounce gen- 
tian root. Eeduce to powder and percolate' 
with a mixture of 4 ounces deodorized alco. 
hoi, 4 ounces water, and 2 ounces orange 
flower water ; displace 10 ounces, dissolve in 
it 256 grains pyrophosphate of iron, add 6 
ounces syrup, and filter. Each fluid ounce 
represents 16 grains pyrophosphate of iron 
and 30 grains gentian. \Newark P. A.) 

4726. Wine of Pepsine. Tritm-ate 160 
grains Hawley's pepsine in 4 ounces sherry 
wine and 1 drachm dilute muriatic acid ; 
pour this on a filter and pass 12 ounces more 
sherry wine through it. Each fluid ounce 
contains 10 grains pepsine. {Newark P. A.) 

4727. Aromatic Elixir. Take 4 
drachms orange peel, 2 drachms coriander 
seed, 24 drachms angelica seed, and 1 drachm 
cochineal. Pulverize and percolate with 12 
ounces deodorized alcohol and 10 ounces wa- 
ter. Add 5 ounces glycerine and 6 ounces 
syrup, to make 2 pints. This is a pleasant 
vehicle for administering nauseous remedies. 
{Newark P. A.) 

4728. Elixir of Valerianate of Am- 
monia. Dissolve 96 grains valerianate of 
ammonia in 4 ounces water, and add it to a 



4.34= 



ELIXIRS. 



foixture composed of 6 drachms syrup of 
orange peel, 2 drachms tincture of prickly 
ash, and k ounce each of fluid extract of 
vanilla and compound tincture of cardamoms. 
Each drachm contains 2 grains valerianate of 
ammonia. 

4729. Elixir of Taxaxacum. Take of 
taraxacum root, 6 ounces (or fluid extract of 
taraxacum, 6 ounces) ; liquorice root, 1 ounce; 
simple syrup, 2^ pints. The dry ingredients 
must be reduced to a suitable degree of fine- 
ness for percolation. Moisten the powder 
with 6 ounces alcohol diluted with twice its 
bulk of water, then pack in a conical perco- 
lator and pour on of the alcohol and water 
mixture until 6| pints are obtained, then add 
the syrup and mix them, 

4730. Chloroform Elixir. Take H 
ounces each chloroform, tincture of opium, 
tincture of camphor, and aromatic spirit of 
ammonia; 20 drops oil of cinnamon, and 2 
ounces brandy. This is an excellent mixture 
for colic. Dose, i fluid drachm. 

4731. Mynsicht's Elixir of Vitriol. 
This elixir is also known by the name of acid 
aromatie tincture. Take cinnamon, 2 ounces; 
lesser cardamoms, cloves, galanga root, and 
ginger, of each 5 ounce ; sulphuric acid (spe- 
cific gravity 1.845), 1 drachm; rectified spirit, 
(specific gravity .897 to .900), 2 pounds. Mix 
the acid and spirit, and pour them on the 
other ingredients reduced to a coarse powder; 
macerate for 8 days in a close vessel, with 
frequent agitation, then press it out and strain. 
It should be of a brownish-red color. (Prus- 
sian Ph. ) Another formula directs as follows : 
Take sweet flag root, and galanga root, of 
each 1 ounce; ginger, cinnamon, cloves, and 
nutmeg, of each 3 drachms ; lemon peel, 4 
drachms ; white sugar, 3 ounces ; proof spirit, 
2 pounds; dilute sulphuric acid, 3 ounces. 
Macerate for 6 days, then press and filter, so 
as to make 27 ounces. (Austrian Ph.) 

4732. Elixir of Valerianate of Am- 
monia. Extract of valerian, 2 scruples; 
fluid extract of valerian, 2 fluid drachms ; wa- 
ter, 7 fluid ounces. Dissolve the extract in 
the fluid extract and water, filter, and add 
valerianate of ammonia, 2 drachms ; orange- 
flower water and simple syrup, of each i 
fluid ounce. Dose, a tea-spoonful. 

4733. Goddard's Elixir of Valerianate 
of Ammonia. Talerianic acid (from the 
root), 6 fluid drachms ; carbonic acid water, 8 
fluid ounces; red Curapoa cordial, 20 fluid 
ounces ; orange-flower water, 8 fluid ounces ; 
mucilage of gum-arabic, 2 fluid ounces. Sat- 
urate the valerianic acid with sufficient car- 
bonate of ammonia diluted with the carbonic 
acid water, then add it to the flavoring ingre- 
dients and mucilage, and filter. Dose, a tea- 
spoonful. 

4734. Moore's Elixir of Valerianate 
of Ammonia. Take of valerianic acid, 1 
fluid ounce ; distilled water, 24 fluid ounces ; 
inodorous alcohol, 12 fluid ounces; simple 
syrup, 12 fluid ounces; peach water, 8 fluid 
ounces ; saturated tincture of red saunders, 4 
fluid drachms; saturated tincture of recent 
orange peel, 1 fluid ounce ; oil of bitter al- 
monds, 5 minims ; and oil of sweet orange, 20 
minims. Mix the valerianic acid and the 
distilled water, and a sufficient quantity of 
carbonate of ammonia to saturate the acid ; 



then add the other ingredients, with a suffi- 
cient quantity of caramel to impart a brown- 
ish shade to the mixture, and filter through 
paper. 

4735. McMunn's Elixir of Opium. 
The following receipt is said to have been 
found among the effects of the late Dr. Chil- 
ton : Take 5 pounds of Turkey opium, cut in 
small pieces and dried, and put it into a large 
strong glass jar with a wide mouth, and pour 
on it sulphuric ether enough to a little more 
than cover it ; then stop the jar tight with a 
glass stopper, to prevent its evaporation ; set it 
away in a cool place, and stir it daily with a 
stick, so that all the lumps may be broken. 
At the end of a week drain off" the ether, and 
again pour on as much more, and repeat stir- 
ring it every day for a week longer, when it 
may be drained off' as before. Then stop the 
jar tight, and lay it down on its side, so that 
aU the ether that accumulates near its mouth 
may be drained off, and repeat doing so until 
the opium is all dry. Then expose it to the 
open air for a few days. The sulphuric ether 
extracts from the opium the narcotine which 
is its most deleterious principle, and also de- 
prives it of its peculiar noxious odor, so that 
the elixir will not smell of it thereafter. Xow 
to free the opium of the smell of the ether, 
and to extract its valuable medicinal principles, 
bofl. it in water, as follows : Pour into a tin 
boiler 4 gallons pure soft water, and when hot 
(but not boiling), put in the opium, when a 
great ebullition will take place, which is 
owing to the evaporation of the ether. Then let 
it boil 10 or 12 minutes, occasionally stirring 
it, so that the lumps of opium may be all 
broken and dissolved. Then set it away till 
the next day, when it should be strained 
through a cloth strainer, and if there be not 
4 gallons of the solution, pour on the residue 
of opium boiling water enough to make that 
quantity when it is strained and clear. "When 
in the state of watery solution, it is better to 
be kept in stone crocks that will hold about 
2 or 3 gallons each, and in a cool place ; after 
standing 5 or 6 days the clear solution should 
be carefully dipped off into a large tin can. 
The skimmings and dregs should be strained, 
and when clear put with the other. To this 4 
gallons of watery solution, add 65 gallons al- 
cohol and stir the mixture thoroughly ; then 
cover the can tight, so as to prevent evapora- 
tion. After standing a few days, the clear 
elixn' may be carefully dipped off into another 
can, and the dregs at the bottom strained, 
and, when clear, poured into the other. After 
standing undisturbed for a few weeks it will 
be fit to use. It will be equivalent to lauda- 
num, both in its strength and the size of its 
dose. 

4736. Compound Elixir of Taraxa- 
cum. As prepared by Mr. Candidus for Dr. 
Cochran, of Mobile. Reduce the following 
ingredients to a moderately fine powder : 6 
ounces taraxacum root, 4 ounces wild cherry 
bark, 1 ounce gentian root, 2 ounces orange 
peel, 1 ounce cinnamon, 1 ounce coriander seed, 
2 drachms each anise, caraway and cardamom 
seeds, and 1 ounce liquorice root. Dilute suffi- 
cient alcohol with twice its bulk of water, and 
moisten the powdered ingredients with 6 
ounces of it, pack in a conical percolator and 
displace 6^ pints with the diluted alcohol. 



ELIXIRS. 



435 



Add to this 2§ pints simple synip. Dose, 
from i to 1 ounce. This elixir is an excellent 
vehicle for quinine^ the taste of -vrhich it com- 
pletely destroys. 

4737. Sqiiibb's Annnonio-Pyrophos- 
phate of Iron. Take of pyrophosphate of 
soda, 4 parts by "weight; solution of tersulphate 
of iron, 8 parts ; citric acid, 2f parts ; water of 
ammonia, 6| parts. Dissolve the j)uroplios- 
phate of soda ( which is prepared by first drying 
and then calcining common phosphate of soda) 
in 60 parts water by means of heat; cool the 
soluti(m to bO^ Fahr. and filter it into a bottle 
of the capacity of 250 parts. Then add the so- 
lution of tersulphate of iron (see 2^0. 4816), 
shake the mixture well, fill the bottle up with 
water, again agitate it, and set it aside for 24 
hours to settle. Decant the clear liquid from 
the precipitate by means of a syphon, and re- 
peat the washing and decantation twice. Then 
pour the precipitate upon a strainer, drain it 
for 24 hours and transfer to a tarred porcelain 
basin. Upon the citric acid, contained in a 
suitable vessel, pour the solution of ammonia, 
a little at a time, with constant stirring, till 
the crystals are dissolved and the acid accu- 
rately saturated. Then add this solution to 
the precipitate in the basin, and apply heat. 
Stir the mixture constantly till perfectly dis- 
solved, and evaporate the solution to 24 parts; 
then filter through paper. Finally pour the 
solution upon plates, dry the salt by a mod- 
erate heat, and keep it in well-closed bottles. 
The yield is a little more than 71 parts. The 
salt is deliquescent, in the form of pale yellow- 
ish green scales. 

4738. Ammonio-Ferric Alum. This 
elegant styptic remedy has recently been 
much prescribed, especially in leucorrhoea; it is 
made as follows : Take of crystallized protosul- 
phate of iron, 8 ounces; sulphuric acid, 7 fluid 
drachms; nitric acid, la fluid ounces; sulphate 
of ammonia, 18 drachms. Boil the sulphate 
of iron in 2 pints water and add to it the sul- 
phuric acid ; when dissolved, add the nitric 
acid gradually, boiling for a minute or two 
after each addition, until the nitric acid ceases 
to produce a black color; boil violently, to 
separate deutoxide of nitrogen, and reduce 
the liquid to about one half, then add the sul- 
phate of ammonia and a little sulphuric acid 
and set it aside to crystalHze. "Wash the ciys- 
tals thoroughly ih a little cold water to which 
a small portion of sulphuric acid has been 
added. This salt is in elegant violet-tinted 
crystals. Its peculiar merit consists in its 
marked astringency without the stimulating 
properties of some of this class of salts. It 
is easily assimilated when taken internally. 
Dose, 3 to 6 grains, and while it controls 
excessive discharges, is, often useful in cor- 
recting their cause. Though called an alum, 
this salt contains no alumina ; it is similar to 
the double sulphate of potassa and iron, 
which is called iron alum, but is more 
soluble. 

4739. Concentrated Infusion of 
Roses. Rose petals or leaves, 3 pounds; 
boiling water, 2 gallons ; infuse 2 hours, with 
constant agitation, then press out the liquor 
in a very clean tincture press, strain through 
flannel or a hair sieve, add diluted sulphuric 
acid, 24 fluid ounces, agitate well, and filter 
through paper supported on coarse muslin ; 



lastly, add 6 pounds finest white sugar broken 
up into small lumps, but perfectly free from 
dust and dirt. When dissolved, put the in- 
fusion into clean, stoppered green glass bot- 
tles, and keep it from the light in a cool place. 
Product very superior. 

Or : Take rose leaves, acid, and cold water, 
as last, mix, and infuse for 48 hours in a 
clean, covered, earthenware vessel, then press 
out the liquid with the hands, filter, and add 
the sugar as before. Product very fine, and, 
keeps well. In employing the first formula, 
care should be taken that the utensils be per- 
fectly clean, especially the press, and earthen- 
ware glazed with lead should be avoided. 
The pressing should also be conducted as 
rapidly as possible, to avoid the color being 
injured by the iron, though clean iron does 
not readily injure infusion of roses before the 
addition of the acid. Should not the infusion 
filter quite clear through paper, the addition 
of the whites of 2 or 3 eggs, diluted ^v•ith 2 or 
3 ounces of water, followed by violent agita- 
tion of the liquid for a few minutes, and re- 
pose for 1 or 2 hours, will usually render it 
fine, when it may either be decanted or fil- 
tered should it require it. It wiU now pass 
rapidly through ordinary filtering paper, and 
at once run clear. 

4740. Elixir of Vitriol. Called also 
aromatic sulphuric acid. In order that elixir 
of vitriol may be miscible with water without 
precipitation, aromatics of an oleo-resinous 
nature cannot be used. Add gradually 3 
troy ounces sulphuric acid to | pint alcohol, 
and pom- 1 fluid ounce boiling water on 2 
drachms red rose leaves ; when both liquids 
have become cool, add 1 fluid ounce fluid ex- 
tract of orange-peel, and add alcohol enough 
to make the whole up to 18 fluid ounces. 
Mix and filter. Elixir of vitriol thus prepared 
has a pleasant aromatic odor and flavor, and 
the beautiful red color of the rose leaves, 
heightened by the presence of the acid. It is 
miscible with water without turbidity, and a 
specimen, after long keeping, has deposited 
but a trace of sediment. 

4741. Alcoholized Sulphuric Acid. 
To 3 parts rectified spirits, add, very gradually, 
1 part sulphuric acid. It is usually colored 
by letting it stand over a little cochineal. 
Its properties are internally refrigerant, ex- 
ternally caustic. As a refrigerant, it is 
administered in doses of -J fluid drachm to 1 
pint water. 

4742. Cantharidal Collodion. Take 8 
troy ounces finely powdered cantharides, 
press it firmly in a cylindrical percolator, and 
pour on it 1^ pints stronger ether. When 15 
fluid ounces have passed, set the liquid aside 
in a close vessel, and continue percolation 
with stronger alcohol until i pint more liquid 
is obtained. Set this last aside to evaporate 
spontaneously until reduced to 1 fluid ounce ; 
then mix it with the reserved liquid. Next 
add 100 grains dry collodion cotton {see next 
receipt), and agitate until dissolved. ( U. S. 
Ph.) 

4743. To Prepare Gun Cotton for 
Collodion. To 10 troy ounces nitrate of po- 
tassa, add Ibk troy ounces sulphuric acid, and 
stir until uniformly mixed. When cooled 
below 122° Fahr., add i troy ounce cotton, 
freed from impurities, stirring ■vrith a 



4.S6 



MEDICATED WATERS. 



rod ; cover the vessel closely, and, after stand- 
ing 24 hours, transfer the cotton to a larger 
vessel, and wash it, first with cold water until 
the washings cease to have an acid taste, and 
then wash with boiling water. Press it as 
dry as possible with the hand, pack it tightly 
in a conical percolator, and pour on it 
stronger alcohol until the remaining water is 
displaced. Lastly, press it as dry as possible 
with the hand. The cotton thus prepared, 
and dried at a temperature of 212°, weighs 
336 grains. 

4744. To Prepare Collodion. Mix 21 
fluid ounces stronger ether with 6 fluid oun- 
ces stronger alcohol in a suitable bottle, add 
the quantity of moist prepared cotton (as pre- 
pared in the preceding receipt), and shake 
occasionally until dissolved. 

4745. Morphia Collodion. Collodion, 
30 parts; muriate of morphia, 1 part. Ap- 
plied to the affected parts in obstinate neu- 
ralgia. 

4746. To Administer Hydrate of 
Chloral. Physicians should prescribe only 
the crystals, and should be very certain that 
they are pure. The taste of hydrate of chloral 
is quite unpleasant, but orange-juice com- 
pletely covers it, and so does peppermint 
water or essence of peppermint. If taken in 
aqueous solution, let the patient be directed 
to suck the juice of an orange immediately 
after swallowing the dose, or mix with the 
solution a little peppermint water, with syrup 
of tolu. The following is a good formula : 
Take chloral hydrate, 1 drachm ; peppermint 
water, i ounce ; syrup tolu, k ounce ; water, 
2 ounces. Dose, from ^ ounce to 2 ounces, as 
may be required. The mixture should not be 
prepared in large quantities, nor be kept for 
any length of time. 

4747. Improved Formula for Chalk 
Mixture. To obviate unpleasant and dan- 
gerous soming of chalk mixture as commonly 
prepared, glycerine may be substituted for the 
sugar, according to the following formula: 
Take of prepared chalk and glycerine, of each 
■^ ounce ; pure gum acacia, 2 drachms ; cinna- 
mon water and pure water, of each 4 ounces. 
Eub well together until thoroughly mixed. 
This mixture will keep during a whole sum- 
mer. The glycerine exerts a positively sooth- 
ing effect upon the bowels, as well as in some 
degree arresting fermentation. 

4748. Phosphorated Ether. Dissolve 
2 grains phosphorus in i drachm oil of pepper- 
mint ; when dissolved add sulphuric ether, i 
fluid ounce ; mix well. Dose, 2 to 6 drops. 
This was recommended by Augustin in epi- 
lepsy, paralysis, and other like nervous affec- 
tions. 

4749. Compound Spirit of Ether. 
This preparation is known by the name of 
HoffmanrCs Anodyne, and consists of k pint 
ether, 1 pint alcohol, and 6 fluid drachms 
ethereal oil. 

4750. Moore's Extract of Black Co- 
hosh. Moisten black cohosh root (black 
snake-root, or cimicifuga racemosa) in JSTo. 50 
powder, with 95 per cent, alcohol, and pack 
closely in a displacer ; add gradually more of 
the alcohol until the resinous portion is ex- 
hausted; evaporate the alcohohc portion to 
dryness, powder the product and pass it 
through a fine sieve. Proceed to displace 



with diluted alcohol (1 part alcohol to 2 of 
water) until the root is perfectly exhausted, 
evaporate the resulting product over a water- 
bath until it is of nearly the required consist^ 
ence of a good extract, then mix the pow- 
dered resinous portion, while the fluid is stiU 
warm, and stir constantly until cold. In this 
way the resin is intimately and smoothly 
mixed with the extractive portion ; is much 
more readily rubbed down with aqueous solu- 
tions, and contains all the active ingredients 
of the root ; but, however carefully prepared, 
change of temperature is liable to separate the 
resin more or less from the extract. 

4751. Procter's Alcoholic Extract of 
Arnica. Take arnica flowers, 12 ounces, 
troy; alcohol, 3 pints; water, 1 pint. Mix 
the alcohol and water, and pour 2 pints of the 
mixture over the arnica, previously finely 
bruised. Allow it to stand for 48 hours, pack 
it firmly in a percolator, and pour on the re- 
mainder of the mixture until 3 pints are ob- 
tained. Evaporate this tincture in a water- 
bath (or still) till reduced to a soft resinous 
extract. 

4752. Medicated Oils. These are pre- 
pared by infusion or decoction. The bruised 
ingredients are either simply digested in 2 to 
4 times their weight of olive oil for some 
days, or they are gently boiled in it until 
they become dry and crisp, care being taken 
that the heat towards the end of the process 
is not greater than that of boiling water. As 
soon as either process is complete, the oil is 
allowed to drain from the ingredients, which 
may be, if necessary, submitted to the action 
of a press. The product is usually strained 
through flannel or a hair sieve while stiU 
wai-m, and, after standing a week or 10 days 
to settle, the clear portion is decanted from 
the dregs. Green plants are usually employed 
for this purpose, but in many cases the dried 
plants, reduced to powder, and digested for 6 
or 8 hours in the oil at the heat of hot water, 
with frequent agitation, yield a much more 
valuable product. These oils are nearly all 
employed as external applications only. 

The oil is obtained from the following, in 
the green state : Balsam apple, the seeds 
first taken out; belladonna leaves; elder 
flowers; fox glove leaves; garden night- 
shade leaves ; fox glove leaves ; garlic ; hem- 
lock leaves ; henbane leaves ; juniper berries, 
crushed; white lilies; poison oak leaves; 
roses, the petals of the flowers ; fresh rue ; St. 
John's wort flowers ; fresh tobacco leaves. 

Others are used dry, and reduced to pow- 
der, such as: Cantharides (Spanish flies); cap- 
sicums; dried chamomile flowers; fenugreek 
seeds; marsh-mallow root; mudar bark; 
opium ; peUitory root ; black pepper, <fec. 



Medicated Waters. These 
are aqueous solutions of different sub- 
stances for mediciaal and other purposes. 
The methods of preparing them generally 
require special arrangements to dissolve the 
oils, &c., otherwise insoluble in water. {See 
No. 1070, 4-c.) 

4754. Camphor Water. Pulverize 120 
grains camphor in a mortar with 40 minims 



SOLUTIONS. 



'i37 



alcohol; triturate it first with. 5 troy ounce 
carbonate of magnesia, then with 2 pints dis- 
tilled water, added gradually. Filter through 
paper. {U. S. Ph.) 

4755. Bitter Almond Water. Kub 16 
minims oil of bitter almonds with 1 drachm 
carbonate of magnesia, adding 2 pints wa- 
ter gradually. Filter through paper. ( U. S. 
Fh.) 

4756. Cinnamon Water. Treat i 
fluid drachm oil of cinnamon in the same 
manner as in the last receipt. Or, by distilling 
18 troy ounces coarsely powdered cinnamon 
in 16 pints water, preserving only the first 8 
pints of the distillate. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4757. Fennel Water. Treat h fluid 
drachm oil of fennel in the same way as last 
receipt. Or, by distillation from fennel in 
coarse powder. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4758. Peppermint Water. Same as 
last, using 2 fluid drachm oil of peppermint, 
or 18 troy ounces peppermint. ( Cf. S. Ph.) 

4759. Spearmint Water. Same as 
last, from oil of spearmint. 

4760. Lime Water. Take of lime, 2 
ounces ; distilled water, 2 quarts. Slack the 
lime with a little of the water; pour on the 
remainder of the water and stir them to- 
gether; then immediately cover the vessel 
and let it rest for 4 hours. Keep the solution, 
with the undissolved lime, in glass-stoppered 
bottles, and when wanted for use, pour off 
the clear liquor. It is an anti-acid tonic, kills 
worms, and frees the bowels from slimy and 
morbific matter. It promotes digestion; it is 
valuable in looseness, scrofula, diabetes, and 
whites. Mixed with a decoction of Peruvian 
bark, it wonderfully strengthens the debilita- 
ted, and those threatened with atrophy. 

4761. Lobelia Water. Lobelia leaves 
and capsules, or powder, 1 ounce; boiling 
water, I pint; brandy, i pint. Infuse a week. 
Good for sore and inflamed eyes, erysipelas, 
ringworms, &c. 

4762. Fever Drink. The juice of a 
lemon ; cream of tartar, 1 tea-spoonful ; wa- 
ter, 1 pint. Sweeten with loaf suo;ar. When 
the patient is thirsty, let him drink freely. 

4763. Saline Mixture. Take fresh 
lemon juice, I5 ounces ; carbonate of potassa, 
1 drachm ; white sugar, 3 drachms ; pure wa- 
ter, 12 ounces; essence of peppermint, 30 
drops. Mix. A tea-cupful to be taken often 
in inflammatory fevers and sore throat. 

4764. Tar Water. Take of tar, 2 pints; 
water, 1 gallon. Mix, by stining them with 
a wooden rod for a quarter of an hour, and, 
after the tar has subsided, strain the liquor, 
and keep it in well-corked-phials. Tar- water 
should have the color of white wine, and an 
empyreumatic taste. It is frequently used 
as a remedy in chronic bronchitis. It acts as 
a stimulant, raising the pulse and increasing 
the discharge by the skin and kidneys. It 
may be drunk to the extent of a pint or two 
in the course of a day. 

4765. Tar Water. M. Magnes Lahens 
suggests a method of preparing this water, 
which is more expeditious and convenient 
than the plan commonly followed. He mixes 
the tar with sand, previously washed and 
dried, thiows the mixture into a percolator, 
and shakes the instrument gently to secure 
proper adjustment of the mixture. "Water is 



then poured on, the first part of the filtrate is 
rejected, and the latter portion is kept for use. 
He uses i ounce tar and 26 ounces of sand to 
obtain 2 pints of the medicated water, which 
corresponds in strength with that of the Paris 
codex. 

4766. Camphor Water. Take i ounce 
of camphor and enclose it with a glass marble 
in a muslin bag; put this into a wide-mouthed 
bottle, such a one as is used for preserved 
fruit. jSTow fill up the bottle with water that 
has boiled a few minutes and has been allowed 
to become cold. The glass marble is used to 
keep the camphor from floating, which it 
otherwise would do. After about 3 days the 
water will become saturated with the camphor, 
and may be poured off as required. A wine- 
glassful is a dose. It is very useful as an 
anti-spasmodic in hysteric and nervous affec- 
tions. 

4767. Barley Water. "Wash away with 
cold water all extraneous matter from 2 oun- 
ces pearl barley ; then boil for a short time in 
5 pint water, throw this away, and boil the 
parboiled barley in 4 pints water down to 2 
pints, and strain. 

4768. DistiUed Water. Take 10 gal- 
lons of spring water; distill it, rejecting the 
first quart that comes over, and preserving 
the next 8 gallons of the remainder. 



Solutions. In pharmacy, a solution 
consists of water in which a certain 
fixed quantity of a soluble substance has 
been dissolved. (See jSfo. 29). 

4770. Solution of Acetate of Mor- 
phia. Mix 4 drachms acetate of morphia 
with 15 drops acetic acid, 1 pint distilled wa- 
ter, and 2 pint proof spirit. Dose, from 5 to 
20 drops. 

4771. Solution of Sulphate of Mor- 
phia. Dissolve 1 grain sulphate of morphia 
in 1 fluid ounce distilled water. Dose, 1 tea- 
spoonful, used in the same cases as opium 

4772. Compound Solution of Alum. 
Rub together 1 ounce each alum and sulphate 
of zinc ; dissolve in 3 pints boiling water. If 
necessary, filter. This is detergent and 
astringent, and is used as a lotion for old ulcers, 
excoriations &c.; and, largely diluted with wa- 
ter, as an eye-wash and injection. 

4773. Solution of Ammonio-Nitrate 
of Silver. Dissolve 44 grains pure crystal- 
lized nitrate of silver in 1 fluid ounce distilled 
water; add gradually ammonia water until 
the precipitate at first thrown down is very 
nearly, but not entirely, redissolved. This 
solution is used as a test for arsenious acid, 
in combination with which it forms a yellow 
precipitate, arsenite of silver. 

4774. Solution of Chloride of Bar- 
ium. Dissolve 1 drachm chloride of barium 
in 1 fluid ounce water, and filter the solution. 
Dose, 5 drops, gradually increased to 10 or 12 
drops, 2 or 3 times a day, for scrofula, scir- 
rhous affections, and worms. Is used external- 
ly, largely diluted, as a lotion in scrofulous oph- 
tkalmia ; also as a test for sulphuric acid and 
the soluble sulphates, in contact with which it 
makes a heavy white precipitate, insoluble 
in either hydrochloric or nitric acid. It is 



4.38 



SOLUTIONS. 



said to detect the presence of xfj^uo- part of 
sulphuric acid. 

4775. Solution of Diacetate of Lead 
— sometimes called Extract of Lead. Boil 27 
ounces acetate of lead, and 16 ounces finely 
powdered litharge, in 3 quarts water for k an 
hour, constantly stirring; then add suflBcient 
distilled water to make up 3 quarts. If re- 
quired, filter, and keep in a closed vessel. 
This solution is almost the same in strength 
and preparation as the solution of subacetate 
of lead of the U. S. Pharmacopoeia. 

4776. Goulard's Water or Lotion. 
Mix 11 fluid drachms diacetate of lead with 2 
fluid drachms proof spirits and 1 pint distilled 
water. This lotion is sedative, refrigerant, 
and astringent. This is the dilute solution of 
diacetate (or siibacetate) of lead. 

4777. Donovan's Arsenic and Mer- 
cury Solution. Tritm-ate 6 grains finely 
powdered pure arsenic, 16 grains pure mer- 
cury, and 50 5 grains pure iodine, with k 
fluid drachm alcohol, until dry; then add 
gradually 8 fluid ounces water, triturating 
constantly ; heat the mixture in a flask until 
it begins to boil, and, when cold and filtered, 
add sufficient water to make up to 8 fluid 
ounces 6 fluid drachms. Dose 10 to 30 drops, 
2 or 3 times a day, soon after a meal, for scaly 
skin diseases. 

4778. Standard Solution of Chloride 
of Calcium. Dissolve carefully 2 grains 
pure carbonate of lime in a little pure hydro- 
chloric acid; evaporate the solution to dry- 
ness, and dissolve the residuum in 1 pint pure 
water. This forms the standard solution of 
16° of hardness. 1 measure of this solution 
mixed with 15 of water constitutes a solution 
of 1° of hardness ; 2 measures of it with 14 of 
water make a solution of 2° of hardness &c 
This solution is the standard used in testing 
the hardness of water. 

4779. Solution of Iodide of Potas- 
sium. Dissolve 10 grains iodide of potas- 
sium and 5 grains iodine in 1 pint water. 
Dose, 2 to 6 grains in the usual case where 
iodine is employed. 

4780. Solution of Chloride of Cal 
cium. Dissolve 4 ounces fused (or 8 ounces 
crystallized) chloride of calcium, in 12 ounces 
water, and filter. Dose from 10 drops to 2 
drachms, for scrofulous tumors, (fee; also 
used as a test for sulphuric acid, in contact 
with which it throws down a white precipi- 
tate insoluble in nitric acid. 

4781. Solution of Sulphate of Mor- 
phia. Dissolve 16 grains sulphate of mor- 
phia in 4 drops dilute sulphuric acid, 1 fluid 
ounce water, and 1 fluid drachm rectified 
spirit. Dose, 5 to 10 drops. 

4782. Solution of Nitrate of Baryta. 
Dissolve 4 grains nitrate of baryta in 80 
grains water. This is used in the same man- 
ner as chloride of barium {see No. 4774) for 
testing sulphuric acid, with the same results. 

4783. Solution of Nitrate of Silver. 
Dissolve 1 drachm crystals of nitrate of silver 
in 1 fluid ounce distilled water. It must be 
protected from the action of light. This is 
employed as a test for soluble chlorides, any 
of which, slightly acidulated with nitric acid, 
will give a white, curdy precipitate (chloride 
of silver) when brought in contact with dilu- 
ted nitrate of silver. 



4784. Liquor of Potassa; Solution 
of Potash; Soft-Soap Lye. Take 1 gallon 
boiling distilled water; use sufficient of this to 
slack 8 ounces recently burnt lime in an 
earthen vessel ; in the remainder of the wa- 
ter dissolve 15 ounces carbonate of potassa, 
and add the slacked lime. Cork the mixture 
closely in a vessel, and shake it frequently un- 
til cold, then allow it to settle and decant the 
clear liquid into clean, well-stoppered green- 
glass bottles. Liquor of potassa is antacid, 
diuretic, and resolvent. In indigestion, acid 
eructations, heartburn, &c., it may be taken 
with great benefit. It neutralizes the acid, 
and counteracts the morbid tendency of the 
stomach to acid secretion. Dose, 10 drops, 
gradually increased to 40. It is powerfully 
poisonous, and should be greatly diluted in 
anything not acidulous. When pure, it does 
not effervesce with acids, nor give a precipi- 
tate with lime-water, or with a solution of 
oxalate of ammonia. {See No. 101). 

4785. Liquor of Soda; Solution of 
Soda ; Soda Lye ; Hard-Soap Lye ; &c. 
The proportions are, crystallized carbonate of 
soda, 32 ounces (troy) ; recent quicklime, 9 
ounces (troy); boiling water, 1 gallon; the 
lime being slacked with a little of the water. 
The product is stated t© have specific gravity 
1.061, and to contain about 5 per cent, of 
pure caustic soda. The process by which 
the above is made is similar to that noticed 
under " Liquor of Potassa." The test of its 
purity, and uses, are also the same. {See Nos, 
4784 and 102.) 

4786. Solution of Chloride of Lime. 
This solution, usually called Ueacliing liquor^ 
is prepared of 1 part chloride of lime to 10 
parts of distiUed water (both by weight). 
That is, 2 ounces to the pint, or 1 pound to 
the gallon. This is the ordinary strength of 
that of the shops; but in that which is sold 
as Concentrated Solution of Chloride of Lime, 
the proportions are usually 3 parts of the 
chloride to 20 of water. That is, 1^ pounds 
per gallon. The British Pharmacopoeia di- 
rects the chloride to be triturated with the 
water in a wed gwood- ware or porcelain mor- 
tar, and having transferred the whole to a 
stoppered bottle, to be well shaken, several 
times, for the space of 3 hours ; lastly, the 
solution is to be filtered through muslin, and 
preserved in a stoppered bottle. The specific 
gravity of that of the Pharmacopoeia is 1.035. 
On the large scale, the ingredients are usually 
placed in a carboy, or a stone-ware bottle, 
which they will only f or f fill, and, after 
being corked or bunged close, agitated fre- 
quently for a day or two. A cork or bung 
of bees'-wax or gutta-percha should be used 
for the purpose, unless the vessel is a stop- 
pered one. After repose for 2 or 3 days, the 
clear portion is decanted through a funnel 
choked with crushed glass into bottles. The 
last should be closely corked (preferably stop- 
pered), and kept in a cool and dark place. 
I^othiug metallic should be allowed to come 
in contact with it. (See No. 104.) A better 
plan of filtering the above is as follows : The 
neck of the funnel should be choked with 
some fragments of broken glass, over which 
a layer of smaller ones should be placed, and, 
over all, a thick layer of coarsely powdered 
glass. This is all the filtration necessary, and 



SOLUTIONS. 



439 



13 much superior to that ordered in the Phar- 
macopoeia, as the contact with the muslin, 
and the longer exposure, weaken the solution. 
The U. S. PharmacopcBia directs the solution 
of chloride of lime to be prepared by mixing 
12 troy ounces muriatic acid with \ pint dis- 
tilled water ; gradually adding 6 troy ounces 
marble in small pieces. Towards the close of 
bhe effervesence, apply a gentle heat, and, 
when the action has ceased, pour off the 
clear liquid, and evaporate to dryness. Dis- 
solve the residue in 1^ times its weight of 
distilled water, and filter through paper. 

4787. Solution of Chloride of Potash. 
This solution is also known as Javelle's Bleach- 
ing Liquid ; Eau de Javellc, &c. This is best 
made by passing gaseous chlorine into a solu- 
tion of 1 part of carbonate of potash in 10 
parts of water, until the gas ceases to be 
absorbed. It may also be made by adding 
a solution of carbonate of potash to a solution 
of chloride of lime, with agitation, as long as 
a j)recipitate forms ; the liquid being after- 
wards decanted or filtered. These processes 
are precisely similar to that for the soda solu- 
tion, an equivalent portion of carbonate of 
potash being used. {See Nos. 4788, tf-c.) 

4788. Solution of Chloride of Soda. 
Also variously called Solution of Chlorinated 
Soda; Solution of Hj/pochlorite of Soda; 
Ldbarraque' s Disinfecting Fluid; Eau de 
Laharraque. Take of crystallized carbonate 
of soda, 12 ounces avoirdupois ; distilled wa- 
ter, 1 Imperial quart; dissolve, and pass 
through the solution the chlorine evolved 
from a mixture of common salt, 4 ounces ; 
binoxide of manganese, 3 ounces ; sulphuric 
acid, 2k fluid ounces, previously diluted with 
3 fluid ounces water, heated in a retort to- 
gether, and the gas purified by passing through 
a wash bottle containing 5 ounces water, be- 
fore it enters the soda solution. 

4789. Solution of Chloride of Soda. 
To a solution of chloride of lime (formed of 
chloride of lime, i pound ; water, 3 pints), 
add a solution of carbonate of soda (formed 
of carbonate of soda, crystallized, 7 ounces ; 
water, 1 pint), and, after agitation for about 
10 minutes, decant or filter, and preserve the 
filtrate in a well- stoppered bottle, and in a 
cool and dark place. This is the formula of 
the Dublin Pharmacopoeia, and often more 
convenient than the preceding one. A writer 
in Boettgefs Notizblatt recommends that in 
preparing this solution from chloride of lime, 
uicarbonate of soda be used in place of sal- 
soda. There is no question but that the pre- 
cipitate will be much less bulky, and more of 
the liquid will be recovered in a concentrated 
form by decantation. 

4790. Solution of Ammonio-Sul- 
phate of Copper. Dissolve 1 drachm of 
the ammonio- sulphate in 1 pint water, and 
filter. This is stimulant and detergent. Ap- 
plied as a lotion to indolent ulcers ; and, 
largely diluted, to remove specks on the 
cornea. Also used as a test for arsenical 
compounds, with which it throws down a 
green precipitate. 

4791. Solution of Indigo. Place a 
stone- ware vessel containing 8 parts oil of 
vitriol in a tub of very cold water ; add 1 part 
fine powdered indigo very gradually, to pre- 
vent the mixture from heating. The mixture 



should be stirred occasionally with a glass 
rod; and, when the solution is complete, 
allow it to repose for 48 hours. Then dilute 
with twice its weight of soft water, adding 
this also very gradually, to prevent heating. 
This precaution is necessary to prevent partial 
decomposition of the indigo, which would 
result in the formation of sulphurous acid 
and indigo green. This is the sulphate of 
indigo or liquid blue of trade. This solution 
is preferably prepared by using 5 ^arts fu7mng 
sulphuric acid instead of the 8 parts oil of 
vitriol. (See No. 98.; 

4792. Solution of Carbonate of Am- 
monia. This is prepared by dissolving 1 
part sublimed carbonate of ammonia in 3 
parts water, and adding 1 part ammonia- 
water. Used in chemical analyses, and as 
a very delicate test for the presence of lime, 
from a solution of which it forms a white pre- 
cipitate soluble in nitric or hydrochloric acid. 

4793. Solution of Sulphuretted Hy- 
drogen. Pass sulphuretted hydrogen gas 
through cold distilled water, recently boiled, 
until it will absorb no more. Keep in small 
bottles securely stoppered. 

4794. Solution of Santonin. The in- 
solubility of santonin in water impairs its 
utility as a vermifuge. "Water, cold or warm, 
takes up the merest trace. Chloroform, ab- 
solute alcohol, the strongest acetic acid, tur- 
pentine, hot olive oil, and hot glycerine, are 
the only simple fluids that dissolve any ap- 
preciable quantity. But it separates from the 
oil and glycerine on cooling ; and water add- 
ed to the other solutions produces the same 
result. By the use of the following formula, 
however, a useful and effective solution may 
be obtained. Put 20 grains bicarbonate of 
soda and 3 ounces distilled water into a flask ; 
keep the Mquid near the boiling point and 
add 12 grains santonin, finely powdered, 
about 2 grains at a time, until the whole has 
dissolved. Solution is effected in about half 
an hour, during which time the water is re- 
duced to 2 ounces, or, if not, may be reduced 
to that bulk, when 1 ounce will contain a full 
dose — 6 grains of santonin. The solution is 
bright and permanent, strongly alkaline, free 
from odor and taste, except that of carbon- 
ate of soda. Carefully neutralized with acetic 
acid, an equally bright and permanent solu- 
tion is formed. Both may be diluted to any 
extent with hot or cold water without impair- 
ing the solution of santonin. The whole, 
or nearly the whole, of the santonin is pre- 
cipitated in its original form of colorless 
rectangular plates, with bevelled edges, im^ 
mediately by mineral acids, and after some 
hours by excess of acetic acid. 

4795. Miscible Copaiba. Mix trans- 
parent balsam of copaiba with half its volume 
of strong liquid of potassa of double strength. 
Different samples often require slightly dif- 
ferent quantities of the solution of potassa; it 
is therefore best to mix them gradually and 
cautiously together. Should the mixtm-e be 
opaque, a little more of one or other of the 
ingredients, as the case may be, will render 
it clear. ]S^o heat should be used. This arti- 
cle is miscible with water, with which it 
forms a kind of milk ; and, from containing 
all the volatile oil of the copaiba, is a very 
valuable preparation. Its activity is con- 



4=4.0 



SOLUTIONS. 



sidered equal to the balsam itself, and is 
given in similar doses. 

4796. Solution of Permanganate of 
Potassa. M. Leconte prepares this solution 
in the following manner : Caustic potassa, 6 
drachms; chlorate of potassa, 5 drachms; 
btaoxide of manganese, 5 drachms. Dissolve 
the caustic potassa and the chlorate in a small 
quantity of water, and add the manganese ; 
get rid of the water by evaporation, stir- 
ring constantly, and calcine the dry mass to a 
dark red for an hour ia an untinned iron cup ; 
allow to cool, and add a quart of plain water. 
Then boil for 5 minutes in a china capsule, 
and you will obtain a fluid of a slightly pur- 
plish tint; decant the solution, and wash the 
residue with such a quantity of water as to 
make altogether 2 quarts. When filtering is 
thought necessary, the liquid should be pass- 
ed, not through paper, but through very 
fine sand. For dressing foul wounds, or for 
injection, use 1 drachm of this solution to 
from 3 drachms to 5 of spring water. 

4797. Reveil's Solution of Perman- 
ganate of Potassa. The officinal solution 
of the British pharmacopceia consists of 80 
grains of the permanganate dissolved in 1 im- 
perial pint distilled water. This is about 1 
part by weight to 110 parts water. M. Eeveil 
recommends a standard solution of 10 parts 
permanganate to 90 of water, so that the so- 
lution contains 10 per cent, of permanganate. 
This latter strength is endorsed by the TJ. S. 
Dispensatory, which also recommends extreme 
cleanliness to. its preparation and use, and of 
the bottles containing it, as organic matter 
more or less neutralizes its disinfecting and 
cleansing powers. The same authority orders 
the pencil or brush used for its application to 
be made of amianthus, or asbestos, in order to 
ensure its fullest efi'ects. {See iS'b. 1701.) 

4798. Directions for Using Perman- 
ganate of Potassa. Eeveil's standard so- 
lution {see No. 4797) may be used at its full 
strength for dressing cancerous sores and 
ulcers, applied with a pencil made of asbestos, 
or sprmkled over a dressing of the same ma- 
terial. For simple wounds or for injections, 
5 fluid ounce of the solution may be diluted 
with 1 pint of water. For gangrenous wounds 
and scrofulous ulcers, or as a gargle in un- 
healthy ulcers of the mouth and throat, 1 
fluid ounce to a pint of water. For a gargle 
in croup and diphtheria, or as a wash for the 
hands after dissecting, 2 fluid ounces to the 
pint. A dose administered internally may 
consist of 10 to 30 drops of the standard solu- 
tion. {U.S.Disp.) 

4799. Aceto-Carbolic Solation. Acet- 
ic acid (pyroligneous) 8°, 20 parts; pure 
carbolic acid, 5 parts ; water, 75 parts. Mix 
the two acids and add the water. The acetic 
acid favors penetration through the epidermis. 
For tinea, apply the liquid once a day over 
the diseased parts by means of a brush. For 
scabies, sponge all "^the parts. The clothes, 
&Q,., of the affected individual should also be 
treated with the liquid. {Lemaire.) 

4800. Solution of Carbolic Acid in 
"Water. To obtain, uniform solution, it is 
better to slack the carbolic acid with four 
times its bulk of hot water, and then to add a 
sufficiency of cold water ; or the carbolic acid 
may be first mingled with alcohol, which 



causes more ready solubility, before the addi- 
tion of cold water. "Water will not dissolve 
more than one-twentieth of its bulk of cai-bolio 
acid. 

4801. Prank's Specific Solution of 
Copaiba. Boil 2 parts balsam of copaiba, 3 
parts liquor of potassa, and 7 parts water to- 
gether for 2 or 3 minutes ; put the mixture 
into a separator, and let it stand for 5 or 6 
days; then draw it off from the bottom, 
avoiding the upper stratum of oil, and add to 
the clear liquid 1 part sweet spirits of nitre, 
perfectly free from acid ; should it turn milky, 
a very little liquor of potassa will usually 
brighten it ; but if it does not, place it ia a 
clean separator, and let it stand, closely cov- 
ered, for a few days, then draw it off from 
the bottom as before, and it will be perfectly 
transparent. 

4802. Mackenzie's Solution of Ni- 
trate of Silver. This is used for sponging 
the throat and fauces, for affections of those 
parts. Dissolve 20 grains nitrate of silver in 
1 fluid ounce distilled water. 

4803. Solution of Hydrosulphuret of 
Ammonia. Saturate strong water of ammo- 
nia with sulphuretted hydrogen gas, then add 
a second portion of water of ammonia, equal 
to that first used, and put into well-stoppered 
bottles. 

4804. Fowler's Solution ; Solution of 
Arsenite of Potassa. Boil 64 grains ar- 
senious acid (in small pieces), and 64 grains 
bicarbonate of potassa, in 12 fluid ounces 
water, until the acid is entirely dissolved, 
When cold, add k fluid ounce compound 
spirit of lavender, and sufficient distilled 
water to make the whole mixture measure a 
pint. {U. S. Fli.) 

4805. Solution of Citrate of Mag- 
nesia. Crystallized citric acid, 37 drachms ; 
water, 268 drachms ; carbonate of magnesia, 
22 drachms. Dissolve the acid in the water, 
and mix the magnesia with it under constant 
stirring ; filter, and add to the filtrate so 
much water as to bring the weight of the 
whole to 40 ounces. To prepare the lemon- 
ade, take of aromatized simple syrup, 4 
ounces ; pulverized citric acid, 48 grains ; bi- 
carbonate of soda, 64 grains. Fill into bot- 
tles of suitable size, add water and so much 
of the magnesia solution as is required, and 
cork and tie immediately. Keep in a cool 
place. This solution contains 80 grains of 
citrate of magnesia to the ounce of fluid. 

4806. Parisel's Solution of Citrate of 
Magnesia. M. Parisel recommends the fol- 
lowing method of preparing this article, 
which he has followed during two years, as 
being both simple and effectual: Take of 
powdered and well dried citric acid, 20 parts 
by weight ; carbonate of magnesia, 12 parts ; 
mix accurately, and enclose the powder in a 
slightly warmed and weU-dried bottle, which 
must be kept well stopped. The mixture 
thus made is rapidly dissolved in three times 
its weight of water at the ordinary tempera- 
ture ; and, if the water be pure, the solution 
in a few minutes becomes perfectly transpar- 
ent, without any precipitate. The salt pre- 
serves its solubility for a long time. 

4807. Solution of Tartrate of Soda. 
Take of carbonate of soda, If pounds ; tartaric 
acid, 11 pounds ; crushed sugar, 2 pounds ; 



LOTIONS. 



4=4rl 



hot water, 2 gallons. Dissolve the soda in I5 
gallons of the water; the sugar in 1 quart; 
and the acid in 1 quart. "When all have dis- 
solved and cooled down, add the acid slowly 
to the soda solution, and mix with the sugar. 
Filter into strong 12-ounce bottles, to each of 
which must be added a few drops of strong 
essence of lemon, aud 35 grains of bicarbonate 
of soda. Cork immediately and tie or wire 
the bottles ; will keep for any length of time. 
This is considered a good substitute for solu- 
ton of citrate of magnesia. 

4808. Solution of Citrate of Potassa. 
Take of citric acid, 5 ounce, troy ; bicarbonate 
of potassa, 330 grains; water, ^ pint. Dis- 
solve the acid and bicarbonate in the water, 
and strain the solution through muslin. ( U. S. 
Ph.) 

4809. Effervescing Citrate of Mag- 
nesia. Take of citric acid, dried and pow- 
dered, 7 parts ; heavy carbonate of magnesia, 
5 parts; mix, and preser^^e in well-corked 
bottles. 

4810. Effervescing Citrate of Mag- 
nesia. Take of powdered citric acid, 2h 
ounces ; powdered sugar, 8 ounces ; mix and 
triturate to a fine powder, and drive off the 
water of crystallization by the heat of a 
water-bath. Add citrate of magnesia (pre- 
pared by fusion), 4 ounces ; oil of lemon, 10 
drops ; and mix immediately ; then add bi- 
carbonate of soda, 3 ounces ; and again tritu- 
rate until the whole fonns a fine powder, 
which must be preserved in well-stoppered 
bottles. From 1 to 3 table-spoonfuls, mixed 
in a tumbler of water, furnishes an efferves- 
cing draught, in which the undissolved por- 
tion is so nicely suspended that it can be 
taken without inconvenience. 

4811. Effervescing Citrate of Mag- 
nesia. Take of crystallized citric acid, 20 
grains; carbonate of magnesia, 14 grains; 
mix in a tumbler of cold water and drink the 
mixture whilst effervescing. 

481 2. Solution of Citrate of Bismuth. 
Put 2 ounces pure sub-nitrate of bismuth into 
a porcelain dish, add 1450 grains nitric acid of 
specific gravity 1.44 ; heat over a spirit lamp 
until the bismuth is dissolved ; then add one 
fluid ounce water, and let stand until cold; 
then gradually add water, constantly stirring 
with a glass rod, until a further addition pro- 
duces milkiness, or until the whole measures 
1-i pints. Filter and set aside. 

jS'ext, dissolve 3 ounces citric acid in I5 
pints water, and exactly neutralize the acid 
with carbonate of soda dissolved in water. It 
is important that there shall be no excess of 
soda, as the resulting citrate of bismuth would 
be contaminated with the oxide after decom- 
position. Put the bismuth solution in a suit- 
able vessel, and add, stirring constantly with 
a glass rod, suflBcient of the solution citrate 
soda exactly to decompose; the precise quan- 
tity is known to have been added, when, 
after placing the whole upon a cloth filter, 
the washings, after having been suffered to 
run awhile until clear, first, fail to precipitate 
oismuth when dropped into water, and, sec- 
ond, show no precipitate upon the addition of 
a few drops of temitrate of bismuth, a small 
quantity of which should be reserved for this 
pui-pose. "WTien the liquid portion has mostly 
passed, pour water upon the filter until thor- 



oughly washed from nitrate of soda, or until 
the water passes tasteless ; then, after drain- 
ing, transfer to bibulous paper, and dry by 
gentle heat. 

4813. Bartlett's Preparation of Citrate 
of Bismuth.. Dissolve 1 troy ounce sub- 
carbonate of bismuth in 720 grains nitric 
acid ; after effervescence has ceased, gradual- 
ly introduce 1^ fluid ounces distilled water; 
add to this slowly, and with constant stirring, 
a solution of 600 grains citrate of potassa in 2 
pints distilled water, iSTitrate of potassa and 
citrate of bismuth are formed; the latter, being 
insoluble, is precipitated, and, being thorough- 
ly washed with distilled water, may be dried 
on bibulous paper with a gentle heat. 

4814. Solution of Citrate of Bismuth 
and Ammonia. Rub some citrate of bis- 
muth with sufficient distilled water to reduce 
it to a uniform pasty consistence, and add 
cautiously, with constant trituration, strong 
water of ammonia until a solution is obtained, 
observing to avoid an excess of ammonia. 
Filter the liquid through paper, returning 
the first portions that pass, should they be 
turbid. 

4815. Solution of Citrate of Iron. 
Dilute 1 pint of solution of tersulphate of 
iron with 2 pints distilled water ; precipitate 
with water of ammonia in slight excess, con- 
stantly stirring. Transfer the precipitate to 
a muslin strainer, and wash it with water 
until the washings are nearly tasteless. Drain 
it, and put half of it in a porcelain capsule on 
a water-bath heated to 150° Fahr., add 5f 
troy ounces citric acid in coarse powder, and 
stir until the precipitate is nearly dissolved ; 
then add sufficient of the reserved precipitate 
to fully saturate the acid. Lastly, filter the 
liquid, evaporate it at a temperature not over 
150° Fahr., until it measures a pint. ( U. S. 
Bis.) 

4816. Styptic Solution of Perchloride 
of Iron. Mix together 12 fluid ounces mu- 
riatic acid aud 5 fluid ounces water ; pour the 
mixture, a small portion at a time, on 2 oun- 
ces avoirdupois of iron wire; aidiug the com- 
plete solution of the wire by a gentle heat. 
Add 6 fluid drachms nitric acid, previously 
mixed with 2 ounces water; and evaporate 
the whole to 5 fluid ounces. Lastly, add wa- 
ter sufficient to make the whole up to 10 fluid 
ounces. ( U. S. Dis.) 



Lotions. Solutions of medicinal 
substances in water, employed for ex- 
ternal application. They may be made of 
any soluble medicaments that are capable of 
exerting their action by contact with the skin. 
Lotions have been divided into classes, as 
sedative, anodyne, stimulant, &c. Sedative 
and refrigerant lotions are commonly em- 
ployed to allay inflammation ; anodyne and 
narcotic lotions to relieve pain; stimulant lo- 
tions to assist the ripening of tumors, (fcc; 
detergent lotions to clean foul ulcers, ^c; 
repellant and resolvent lotions to disperse 
tumors, remove eruptions, &e. Lotions are 
usually applied by wetting a piece of linen 
with them, and keeping it on the part affected, 
or by moistening the part with the fingers 



4.4:2 



LOTIONS, 



previously dipped into them. Lotions are 
more agreeable if made with rose water. A 
number of these preparations are here given, 
and others will be found by referring to the 
index, under their respective headings. 

4818. Lotion of Nitric Acid. Mix to- 
gether 2 drachms dilute nitric acid and 1 pint 
water. This lotion is stimulating and cleans- 
ing. It is very useful when applied to foul 
and foetid ulcers; it is likewise of considerable 
value in ulceration of the bone and threatened 
inflammation. It was the favorite lotion of 
Sir Astley Cooper in cases of unhealthy ul- 
cerations requiring the application of a stimu- 
lant. 

4819. Anodyne Lotion. Crude opium, 
2 drachms; warm water, 1 pint. Eub the 
opium for a few minutes in a mortar with a 
little of the warm water, then pour in the re- 
mainder of the water and mix them well. 
This is an excellent wash for painful and irri- 
table ulcers and swellings. 

4820. Astringent Lotion. Sulphate 
of zinc, 2 drachms ; water, 1 pint ; camphor- 
ated spirit of wine, 2 drachms; mixed to- 
gether. This is an excellent lotion for piles, 
used night and morning. 

4821. Compound Alum Lotion. A de- 
tergent and astringent lotion for old ulcers, 
chilblains, excoriations, &c., and, largely dilu- 
ted, as an eye-wash and injection. Dissolve 1 
ounce each of alum and sulphate of zinc 
in 3 pints boiling water ; filter, if necessary. 

4822. Camphorated Lotion. Diluted 
solution of diacetate of lead, 8 fluid ounces ; 
spirit of camphor, 2 drachms ; mix, and shake 
weU. Eefrigerant and anodyne. Employed in 
erysipelatous inflammations, burns, contu- 
sions, sprains, excoriations, &c. 

4823. Spackman's Lotion for In- 
flamed Parts. Mix 1 drachm tincture of 
myrrh; 3 drachms tincture of camphor; 1 
ounce rectified spirits of wine; 1 drachm 
Goulard's extract; 1 ounce solution of sul- 
phate of morphia; 2 ounces tincture of arnica, 
and 4 ounces water. 

4824. Lotion of Acetate of Lead. 
Dissolve sugar of lead, ^ ounce avoirdupois, 
in distilled or soft water, 1 Imperial pint. 
Sometimes a little vinegar is added, a like 
quantity of water being omitted. TJsed in 
excoriations, burns, sprains, contusions, <fec. ; 
also as an occasional cosmetic wash by per- 
sons troubled with eruptions. 

4825. Preventive Lotions. These are 
washes intended to prevent infection from 
personal contact with those laboring under 
contagious diseases. Most of the nostrums 
of this character are mere weak solutions of 
chloride of lime, corrosive sublimate, potassa, 
or acetate or diacetate of lead. {See No. 
4830.) 

4826. Lotion of Muriate of Ammonia. 
Dissolve sal-ammoniac in coarse powder, 1 
to 4 drachms (avoirdupois), in water, 1 Im- 
perial pint. A useful wash in itch, old ulcers, 
tender feet, sweaty feet and hands, swelled 
joints, <fec. 

4827. Strong Lotion of Hydrochlorate 
of Ammonia. Dissolve sal-ammoniac, 1 to 
2 avoirdupois ounces, in water, 1 Imperial 
pint. In bruises and contusions, extravasa- 
tions, glandular swellings and indurations, 
chilblains, &c., when the skin is not broken. 



Yinegar is often substituted for the whole oi 
a part of the water, and sometimes 3^ or -^ 
part of rectified spirit, or some brandy or mm 
is added. 

4828. Lotion of Muriatic Acid. Mix 
hydrochloric acid (specific gravity 1.16), 1 
fluid ounce, with water, 19 fluid ounces. For 
unbroken chilblains. Diluted with an equal 
bulk of water, it forms a useful lotion in lepra 
and other scaly skin diseases. 

4829. Lotion of Nitrate of Silver. 
Dissolve crystallized nitrate of silver, 1 to 2 
drachms avoirdupois; concentrated nitric acid, 
20 drops ; in distilled water, 1 ounce. Used 
as a liquid caustic to destroy corns and warts. 

4830. Lotion of Chloride of Lime. 
Take of chloride of lime (best, fresh), 5 ounce 
avoirdupois ; pure water, 1 Imperial pint ; 
mix in a bottle, and agitate, occasionally, for 
2 or 3 hours ; after repose, filter the clear por- 
tion through a piece of calico that has been 
previously moistened with water, and preserve 
the filtrate in a stoppered bottle. 

4831. Lotion of Chloride of Soda. 
As the last, but substituting chloride of soda 
for chloride of lime. Or : Take of chloride of 
lime, 5 ounce avoirdupois ; water, f Imperial 
pint; mix, <fec., as before; then add of crys- 
tallized carbonate of soda, 31 drachms; pre- 
viously dissolved in water, f pint; agitate the 
whole for 12 or 15 minutes, and filter, &c., as 
before. 

4832. Lotion of Chloride of Potassa. 
As the last, but substituting 3 drachms dry 
carbonate of potassa for the carbonate of 
soda. 

4833. Lotion of Prussic Acid. Mix 
medicinal prussic acid, 5 fluid drachm, with 
rectified spirit, 1 fluid ounce, and distilled 
water, 2 fluid ounces ; cover the bottle with 
thick purple paper, and keep it in the shade. 
Eecommended by Dr. Elliotson as a lotion to 
moisten the face both before and after shaving, 
as being very soothing to an irritable skin. It 
is poisonous. 

4834. Sulphuretted Lotion. Dissolve 
sulphuret of potassium, 1 drachm avoirdupois, 
in distflled water, 1 pint Imperial. TJsed to 
render the skin soft, white, and smooth, par- 
ticularly when there is a tendency to slight 
eruptions of a pustular or vesicular character. 
The addition of •!• to 1 ounce of glycerine im- 
proves it for present use. 

4835. Carbolic Acid Lotion. Dissolve 
5 grains carbolic acid in crystals, in 1 ounce 
water. As a lotion for foul ulcers, carbun- 
cles, scabies, and lepra. 

4836. Carbolic Acid Lotion for Burns. 
Mix 1 drachm liquid carbolic acid with 3 oun- 
ces linseed oil and 3 ounces lime-water. 

4837. Lotion of Arnica for Bruises, 
Sprains, Burns, &c. Take 1 ounce of 
arnica flowers dried, and put them in a 
wide-mouthed bottle ; pour just enough 
scalding water over them to moisten them, 
and afterwards about 1 or 1^ pints spirits of 
wine. In case of a bum or bruise, &c., wet a 
cloth in the arnica and lay it on the part af- 
fected. Renew the application occasionally, 
and the pain will soon be removed. 

4838. Balm of Gilead Lotion. Balm- 
gilead buds, bottled up in new rum, are very 
healing to fresh cuts or wounds. An excel- 
lent preparation to have in the house. 



LINIMENTS. 



4.43 



4839. Glycerine Lotion for Irritation 
of the Skin. Mix 1 ounce of glycerine with 

1 pint water. It allays itching and removes 
dryness, <fec., in various skin diseases. TVith 
the addition of 2 or 3 drachms of borax, it 
removes chaps from the lips, hands, and nip- 
ples. 

4840. Startin's Glycerine Lotion to 
Allay Irritation. Take 5 drachm trisnitrate 
of bismuth ; 1 fluid drachm tincture of fox- 
glove ; 1 fluid drachm dilute nitric acid ; 4 
drachms glycerine; and 8 fluid ounces rose- 
water. To allay the irritation in itch and 
some other skin diseases. 

4841. Glycerine Lotion for Burns, 
Scalds, &c. Take 1 ounce glj-cerine, 2 
ounces thick mucilage (gum-arabic dissolved 
ki water), and 7 ounces lime water. For 
burns, scalds, chaps, excoriations, (fee. 

4842. Startin's Glycerine Lotion for 
Bruises, &c. Triturate together 1 ounce 
glycerine, 1 drachm extract of belladonna, 
and 3 ounces soap liniment. {See No. 4869.) 
For bruises, sprains, and swelled joints ; also 
gouty, neuralgic, and rheumatic pains. 

4843. Evaporating Lotions. These 
lotions are soothing and refrigerant if allowed 
to evaporate by free exposure ; and stimulant, 
if the evaporation is prevented by covering 
the part with the hand, or a piece of oiled 
silk. They are useful applications in nervous 
headaches, restlessness, initability of the skin, 
&c. Mix 1| fluid ounces each of snlphmic 
ether, rectified spirit, and solution of acetate 
of ammonia, wdth 3| fluid ounces rose-water. 
A simple evaporating lotion may be made 
with 1 part rectified spirit, and 4 to 6 parts 
water. 

4844. Camphorated Evaporating 
Lotion. Dissolve 5 drachm camphor in 4 
ounces rectified spirit and i ounce elder 
flowers ; digest 24 hours and strain. This 
is a good calming lotion. 

4845. Tar Lotion. Quicklime, 6 ounces ; 
water, 48 ounces ; slack, add tar 4 ounces, and 
boil to one half. This liquid consists of a 
solution of pyrolignite of lime and pyroge- 
nous oil and resin. It may be advantageously 
employed in various chronic skin diseases, 
especially those afi'ecting the heads of chil- 
dren. 

4846. Lotion of Galls. Bruised galls. 

2 drachms ; boiling water, 1 pint ; infuse an 
hour, and strain. Astringent. An excellent 
application to sore nipples, or to strengthen 
them before suckling; spirit of wine, 3 oun- 
ces, may be advantageously added, and a like 
portion of water omitted. 

4847. Mercurial Lotion; or Black 
Wash. Calomel, 1 drachm; lime water, 1 
pint ; mix, and shake well. These are the 
usual proportions. The bottle should be well 
shaken before the lotion is applied. Black 
wash is a favorite application to all kinds of 
syphilitic sores. 

4848. Yellow Lotion or Wash, Some- 
times called Red Wash. Con-osive subli- 
mate (in powder), i dtachm ; lime water, 1 
pint ; mix, and shake well. It should be well 
shaken before use. A common application to 
syphilitic and scrofulous sores. 

4849. Lotion of Belladonna. Extract 
of deadly night-shade, 1 drachm ; diluted solu- 
tion of diacetate of lead, 1 pint; dissolve. 



Applied to tumors and glandular enlarge- 
ments. 

4850. Cazenave's Antipsoric Lotion. 

Sulphuret of potassium, 1 drachm ; soft soap 
(pure), 2 drachms ; water, 8 ounces; dissolve. 
An excellent remedy for the itch. It leaves 
but little smell behiiid, and does not soil the 
linen. 

4851. Iodine Lotion. Tincture of io- 
dine, 5 fluid ounce ; iodide of iron, 12 grains ; 
chloride of antimony, h. ounce. Mix for a 
wash. It is a remedy for corns. Apply 
with a small brush. Or: Iodine, Ingrains; 
spirits of wine, 3 tea-spoonfuls. Dissolve, and 
add 1 pint of water. A most excellent wash 
for scrofulous sores. 

4852. Disinfecting Lotion. Liquor 
of common salt, 1 fluid ounce ; water, 2 pint ; 
Or: Chloride of lime, 3 drachms; water, 1 pint; 
dissolve. Both are good washes for foul 
ulcers, the itch, the teeth, to sweeten the 
breath and remove the smell of tobacco 
smoke, and for various similar purposes. 

4853. Valuable Lotion for Wounds. 
&c. Camphor, 5 drachms,, cut into small 
pieces, and dissolved in half a pint of spirits of 
wine in a closely corked bottle ; when fully 
dissolved, add 2 pint of ox-gall and 60 drops 
of laudanum. Shake it well, and bottle for 
use. This has been a patent medicine, and 
is very efficacious in the cure of fresh wounds, 
cuts, bruises, swellings, sores, and inflamed 
and pained parts. * 

4854. Lotion for Mange. Corrosive 
sublimate, i ounce ; spirits of salt (muriatic 
acid), 5 ounce ; water, 1 quart. Or : Cor- 
rosive sublimate, 1 drachm ; sal-ammoniac, i 
ounce; water, 1 pint Or: To the last add 
strong decoction of white hellebore, 5 pint. 
Used for mange in horses, cattle, and dogs, 
when sulphur ointment fails. 

4855. Lotion for Galls. Yinegar and 
spirit of wine, of each 4 ounces; sugar of lead, 
^ ounce; water, i pint; mix. Or: Soap lini- 
ment and solution of acetate of ammonia, 
equal parts. Or : Sal-ammoniac, 1 ounce ; 
muriatic acid, 3 drachms; water, 1 pint. Used 
by fanciers for saddle-galls or warbles. 

4856. Lotion of Chlorate of Potassa. 
— sometimes called Cosmetic Solution of Po- 
tassa — ^for bad breath. Dissolve powdered 
chlorate of potassa, i ounce, in distilled wa- 
ter, 12 ounces, and rose-water, 21 ounces. 
Used as a wash in foul mouth, gums, cfec, 
particularly where there is a scorbutic or sy- 
philitic taint; also extensively by smokers, 
to deodorize the breath. Its daily use is said 
to give a rich healthy hue to the gums and 
lips. 



Liniments, a semi-fluid olnt- 
j ment or soapy application for painful 
joints, swellings, bums, <fec. The term is also 
occasionally extended to various spirituous 
and stimulating external applications. "When 
they are of a thinner consistency they are 
called embrocations, although this distinc- 
tion is not always observed. Liniments are 
generally applied by friction with the hand 
or fingers, or with some substance, such as a 
piece of flannel, capable of producing some 
amount of irritation of the skin. Sometimes 
a piece of linen rag dipped in them is simply 



4:4.4r 



LINIMENTS. 



laid on the part. The greater number of 
cerates and ointments may be converted into 
liniments by reducing their substance with 
almond or olive oil, or oil of turpentine. 
Besides those here given, others will be 
found in the index under their proper heads. 

4858. Good Samaritan, or Immediate 
flelief from. Pain. Take 2 quarts of 95 per 
cent, alcohol, and add to it the following 
articles : Oils of sassafras, hemlock, spirits of 
turpentine, balsam of fir, chloroform, and tinc- 
ture of catechu and guaiacum, of each 1 
ounce ; oil of origanum, 2 ounces ; oil of win- 
ter green, 5 ounce, and gum camphor, 5 ounce. 
The above is a noble liniment^ and may be 
successfully employed in rheumatism, bruises, 
neuralgia, sprains, headache, burns, and spinal 
affections. 

4859. Hemlock Liniment. Oil of 
hemlock, i ounce ; camphor, in gum, ^ 
ounce ; opium, J ounce ; spmts of wine, 1 
pint. Mix. It is a first-rate rubefacient in 
inflammatory rheumatism, gout, quinsy, in- 
flamed breast, white swellings, <fec. 

4860. Morphia Liniment. An ex- 
cellent anodyne, which often allays pain 
when other means have failed. Put 3 grains 
pure morphia into a mortar ; add gradually, 
during trituration, 1 fluid ounce warm oil of 
almonds ; when the morphia is dissolved, add 
1 ounce camphor liniment. {See No. 4880). 

4861. Magic Liniment. Alcohol, 1 
quart ; gum camphor, 4 ounces ; turpentine, 2 
ounces ; oil of origanum, 2 ounces ; sweet oil, 
1 ounce. For cuts or calks in horses or cattle 
in winter it has no equal ; but it must be ap- 
plied often. For human flesh use twice the 
amount of alcohol, and no liniment will be 
found superior to it. 

4862. Spirits of Camphor. The gum 
resin camphor readily dissolves in alcohol, 
forming spirits of camphor. About 2 ounces 
camphor are generally dissolved in about 1 
pint spirits. It is used as an external appli- 
cation for sprains, local pains, and stitches. 
It is applied by rubbing with the hand upon 
the painful part. To secure the full benefit 
of the application, the part should be after- 
Wards covered with a piece of flannel of suit- 
!ible size, more or less wetted with the 
spirits, and the whole covered with oil silk 
ibr the purpose of restraining evaporation. 

4863. Camphorated Oil. This is a 
camphor liniment. The proportions are the 
same as in the preceding formula, substituting 
olive oil for the alcohol, and exposing the ma- 
terials to a moderate heat. As an external 
stimulant application it is even more powerful 
than the spirits ; and to obtain its full influ- 
ence, the part treated should be also covered 
with flannel and oil silk. It forms a valuable 
liniment in chronic rheumatism, and other 
painful affections, and is specially valuable as 
a counter-irritant in sore or inflamed throats, 
and diseased bowels. 

4864. Arnica Liniment. Add to 1 pint 
sweet oil, 2 table- spoonfuls tincture of arnica; 
or the leaves m-ay be heated in the oil over a 
slow fire. Good for wounds, stiff joints, rheu- 
matism, and all injuries. 

4865. London Liniment. Take chlo- 
roform, ohve oil, and aqua-ammonia, of each 
1 ounce ; acetate of morphia, 10 grains. Mix, 
and use as other liniments. Very valuable. 



4866. Valuable Embrocation. Taka 

i ounce camphor, cut it into small pieces, and 
dissolve it in 2 pint spirits of wine in a closely 
corked bottle; when completely dissolved, 
add 1 pint ox- gall (which can be had of any 
butcher), and about 40 or 50 drops laudanum ; 
shake it well and bottle it for use. Apply lint 
dipped into it. 

4867. Hungarian Counter-irritant 
Liniment. Macerate for a week 1 drachm 
powdered cantharides, 1 drachm sliced garhc, 
4 drachms each camphor, bruised mustard 
seed, and black pepper, in 6 fluid ounces 
strong vinegar and 12 fluid ounces rectified 
spirit ; then filter. 

4868. Liniment for "Wounds. In 1 
quart alcohol dissolve 1 ounce each saltpetre 
and gum camphor, and 1 table-spoonful of 
salt. When dissolved the liniment is ready 
for use, and is a magical remedy. 

4869. Steer's Opodeldoc, or Soap 
Liniment. "White castile soap, cut small, 2 
pounds ; camphor, 5 ounces ; oil of rosemary, 

I ounce ; oil of origanum, 2 ounces ; rectified 
spirit, 1 gallon ; dissolve in a corked bottle by 
the heat of a water-bath; and when consider- 
ably cool, strain, then add liquor of ammonia, 

II ounces; immediately put it in bottles, cork 
close, and tie over with bladder. It will be 
very fine, solid and transparent, when cold. 

4870. Liquid Opodeldoc. Take 2 oun- 
ces castile soap sha\ings, and dissolve it in 1 
quart alcohol, with gentle heat, then add 1 
ounce camphor, 5 ounce oil rosemary, and 2 
ounces spirits hartshorn. 

4871. Belladonna Liniment for Skin 
Diseases. Take 4 drachms extract of bella- 
donna, 1 ounce glycerine, and 6 ounces soap 
liniment. {See No. ASQ9.) For rheumatism, 
neuralgia, painful swellings, <fec. 

4872. Black Oils. Best alcohol, tinc- 
ture of arnica, British oil, and oil of tar, of 
each 2 ounces ; and slowly add sulphuric acid, 
5 ounce. Extensively used as a liniment, 
particularly in cases where there is much in- 
flammation. 

4873. Factitious Oil of Spike. Oil of 
turpentine, 3 pints; oil of lavender, 1 pint; 
mix. Used by enamelers to mix their colors 
in. Or : Oil of turpentine, 1 gallon ; Barba- 
does tar, 4 ounces; alkanet root, 2 ounces; 
digest a week. Used as a liniment for horses. 

4874. Liniment of Cantharides. Pow- 
dered Spanish flies, 1 drachm ; oil of turpen- 
tine, 1 fluid ounce ; digest 2 hours and filter. 
Or: Tincture of cantharides and soap liniment 
{see No. 4869), equal parts; mix. Both the 
above are irritant and stimulant, but should 
be used cautiously, lest they produce stran- 
gury. 

4875. Hydrochloric Acid Liniment. 
Take of olive oil, i Imperial pint ; pure sper- 
maceti and camphor, of each 5 ounce 
avoirdupois ; balsam of Peru, J ounce ; mix 
by a gentle heat, add 5 fluid ounce hydro- 
chloric acid, and stir until quite cold. An 
excellent friction for chilblains before they 
break. The balsam of Peru may be omitted 
if the cost be an object. 

4876. Compound Chloroform Lini- 
ment. This is composed of 1 ounce each 
chloroform, ether, spirit of camphor, and laud- 
anum, and I ounce tincture of cayenne pepper. 
For rheumatic pains. 



LINIMENTS, 



4.4.5 



4877. Petroleum Liniment. Mix to- 
gether 1 ounce petroleum, 2 ounce camphor, 
and i drachm alcohol. 

4878. Opium liiniment. Mix 2 ounces 
laudanum with 6 ounces soap liniment. {See 
No. 4869.) It constitutes an excellent sooth- 
ing application in rheumatism, sprains, and 
other painful affections. 

4879. Belladonna Liniment for Lead 
(Colic. Take 40 grains extract of belladcmua, 1 
drachm rectified ether, and 2 fluid ounces 
cherry-laurel water. As a friction to the 
abdomen in lead colic. 

4880. Compound Camphor Liniment, 
or Essence for Headache. Take of cam- 
phor, 25 ounces avoirdupois ; oil of lavender, 

1 fluid drachm ; rectified spirit, 15 fluid oun- 
ces ; dissolve, then add of liquor of ammonia 
(specific gravity .882-.880), 5 fluid ounces, 
and shake them until mixed. It is powerfully 
stimulant, rubefacient, and counter-irritant. 
A piece of folded linen wetted with it applied 
to the part, and then covered with a towel, 
and pressed with the hand, or covered with a 
piece of oiled silk, will generally relieve su- 
perficial pains. 

4881. Liniment Volatile, or Magic 
Pain Killer. Spirit of hartshorn, 1 ounce ; 
olive oil, 1-^ ounces ; cayenne pepper, 2 
drachms ; laudanum, 2 drachms ; 1 table- 
spoonful of salt and 2 of brandy. Shake well 
in a bottle. Rub the affected part with it, 
apply afterwards a rag saturated with it. It 
removes pains and swellings. It is a magic 
remedy. 

4882. Instantaneous Pain Killer. 
Another and even more instant cure of pain 
is made as follows : Take aqua-ammonia, sul- 
phuric ether, and alcohol, equal parts, and 
applv over the pain. 

4883. Chilblain Liniment. Take 1 
ounce of camphorated spirit, k ounce of the 
liquor of subacetate of lead. Mix and apply 
3 or 4 times a day. This is Sir Astley Cooper's 
prescription, and a very efficacious remedy 
for chilblains. 

4884. Rheumatic Liniment. Tincture 
of cayenne, oil of turpentine, olive oil, hem- 
lock oil, gum camphor, sassafras oil, tincture 
of prickly ash, of each 1 ounce ; powdered 
capsicum, or cayenne, 1 ounce ; spirit of wine, 

2 quarts ; vinegar, 1 quart ; ammonia, i 
quart ; add 2 ounces gum camphor. Mix, 
put in a vessel, and stir occasionally till 
mixed and dissolved. This is a magic liniment, 
soon giving ease in rheumatic pains, gout, 
neuralgia, sprains, &c., &c. It seldom or 
never fails. ''Good Samaritan" is also an 
excellent remedy for rheumatism. {See No. 
4858.) Bathe the parts affected freely, 
and wet a piece of flannel and bind on the 
parts. 

4885. Good Liniment for Rheumat- 
ics. Take 1 gill each of alcohol, beefs gall, 
spirits of tui-pentine and sweet oil, and 4 oun- 
ces gum camphor. Put them all in a bottle 
and shake it up ; use it 2 or 3 times a day, a 
tea-spoonful at a time. Apply it to the parts 
affected, before the fire. It is good, also, 
for frost-bites. 

4886. Liniment for Old Rheumatic 
Pains. A powerful liniment for old rheu- 
matic pains, especially when affecting the 
loins, is the following : Camphorated oil and 



spirits of turpentine, of each 2 parts ; watei 
of ammonia, 1 part ; laudanum, 1 part ; to be 
well shaken together. 

4887. Gebhard's Liniment for Sprains 
and Bruises. Mix together 2 ounces each 
oil of spike and British oil ; 1 pint tanner's 
oil ; h pint spirits of turpentine ; put it into 
an iron or copper kettle placed over a fire, and 
carefully stir in k ounce sulphuric acid. 
When the whole becomes quite hot, cool and 
bottle. This is an excellent liniment for all 
kinds of sprains and bruises, and for horses or 
cattle it cannot be sm-passed. 

4888. Stimulating Liniment. Cay- 
enne, I5 ounces; salt, 1 table-spoonful; 
spirits of wine, 2 ounces ; camphor, i ounce ; 
spirits of turpentine, i pint. Bottle, and 
shake now and then dm-ing one day. Then add 
i pint vinegar. It is excellent for sponging 
the body in cases of pain, debility, inflam- 
mation, rheumatism, gout, sore throat, numb- 
ness, neuralgia, <fec. 

4889. Embrocation for Bruises. Pour 
upon 2 ounces carbonate of ammonia (smell- 
ing salts) as much distilled vinegar as wiU 
dissolve it, then add I5 pints common recti- 
fied spirit, and shake the whole together in a 
bottle. It is a good remedy for sprains and 
bruises. 

4890. Cajeput Liniment. Mix to- 
gether 7 ounces soap liniment {see No. 4869), 

1 ounce camphor, and 1 ounce oil of cajeput. 

4891. Cantharides Liniment for Cnil- 
blains. Mix together 2 ounces soap lini- 
ment and 1 ounce tincture of Spanish flies. 
Apply at intervals during the day. 

4892. Compound Mustard Liniment. 
Take of oil of mustard, 1 fluid drachm ; ether- 
eal extract of mezereon, 40 grains; camphor, 
120 grains; castor-oil, 5 fluid drachms; alco- 
hol, 4 fluid ounces; dissolve the extract of 
mezereon and camphor in the alcohol, and 
add the oil of mustard and castor-oil. 

4893. Nerve and Bone Liniment. 
Take 1 ounce spirits of turpentine, i pint 
brandy, and 1 gill neat's-foot oil. Simmer 
over a fire till mixed ; then put it into bottles 
for use. 

4894. Mustard Oil Ointment. Crude 
mustard-seed oil, 16 fluid ounces; ethereal 
oil of mustard, 30 drops; water of ammonia, 4 
fluid ounces, or a sufficient quantity to form 
into a soap. Mix and bottle in broad-mouthed 
phials containing about 2 ounces. 

4895. Wonderful Ointment. The fol- 
lowing liniment is good for all sprains, bruises, 
lameness, &c. : Mix together 2 ounces oil of 
spike; 2 ounces origanum; 2 ounces hem- 
lock; 2 ounces wormwood; 4 ounces sweet 
oil; 2 ounces spirit of ammonia; 2 ounces 
gum camphor; 2 ounces spirits turpentine. 
Add 1 quart 95 per cent, alcohol, mix well to- 
gether, and bottle tight. This is an un- 
equaled horse liniment, and, by omitting the 
turpentine, it constitutes one of the best 
liniments ever made for human ailments, 
such as rheumatism, sprains, &c. 

4896. Horse Embrocation. Take \ 
ounce each of oil of spike, oil of monarda 
(horsemint), and strong ammonia water; \ 
ounce acetate of opium, 1 ounce chloroform, 

2 ounces tincture of camphor, 1 ounce oil of 
origanum, and 2 ounces oil of camphor. 
This is said to be an excellent preparation. 



4.4r6 



PILLS, 



Pills. This form of medicine is par- 
ticularly adapted for administering nau- 
seous substances, and such as operate in small 
doses. Extracts may be made into pills either 
alone or with the addition of any simple pow- 
der, as that of liquorice, to mcrease their con- 
sistence. Powders are usually beaten up 
with syrup, mucilage, conserve of roses, or 
extract of liquorice. Castile soap is frequent- 
ly used for substances that are not decomposed 
by alkalies. When the mixed ingredients are 
loade into a mass, it should be preserved in a 
bladder placed in a covered stone pot, and 
occasionally moistened with a little spirit, or 
spirit and water, to prevent it getting hard. 
In all cases the dry ingredients should be re- 
duced to fine powder, and the whole beaten 
into a uniform mass of a proper consistence 
for rolling into pills. This is efiected by roll- 
ing it on a slab into a convenient thickness, 
and dividing into pieces of the requisite 
weight, lastly rolling them between the thumb 
and finger, to give them a globular form. A 
pill machine is usually employed for dividing 
the roll and shaping the pills. In ordinary 
cases, rolling the pills in carbonate of magne- 
sia or powdered starch is usuaUy adopted, to 
prevent them sticking together while moist. 
For other pills not under this heading, see 
Index. 

4898. To Sugar-coat Pills. To sugar- 
coat, place the pills dry and smooth in a round 
copper pan or porcelain dish. In another pan 
dissolve white sugar in water in the same pro- 
portion as for making simple syrup ; and, when 
dissolved, slowly evaporate the syrup until it 
feathers ; that is, when a small portion taken 
out with a ladle and drawn up between two 
fingers forms a thread. The pan with the 
pills is next suspended over a slow fire, a lit- 
tle fine flour is sprinkled over them, and imme- 
diately after a spoonful of the syrup is pom-ed 
on, or enough to cover. The pan is now kept 
swinging or moving over the fire, care being 
taken not to burn the sugar by too much 
heat, until it is reduced to a fine dust. Then 
more sugar is added, and the swinging and 
drying continued until a coat of sufficient 
thickness is obtained. 

4899. To Silver or Gild PiUs. Pills 
are gilded and silvered by rolling them be- 
tween the fingers slightly moistened with 
mucilage, and then shaking them up in a 
small gallipot covered with a piece of paper, 
al-ong with a little gold or silver leaf, or a lit- 
tle powdered gold or silver. 

4900. Aloes Pills. Make 1 ounce aloes 
and 1 ounce soap into a mass with water. 
Divide into 240 pills. 

4901. Aloes and AssafcBtida Pills. 
Take k ounce each powdered aloes, a>?safcetida, 
and soap, made into a mass with water. Di- 
vide into 180 pills. 

4902. Aloes and Myrrh. PiUs. Mix 1 
ounce aloes, 5 ounce myrrh, and J ounce 
saffron, with sufficient syrup to make a mass. 
This is sufficient for 240 pills. 

4903. Assafoetida PiUs. Mix into a 
mass with water f ounce assafoetida and J 
ounce soap. Make into 120 pills. 

4904. Sulphate of duinine Pills. Mix 
i ounce sulphate of quiniue with 1 drachm 
powdered gum-arabic, and make into a mass 



with honey. To make 240 pills, each of which 

wiU contain 1 grain of quinine. 

4905. duinia Pills for Chronic In* 

termittent Fever. Mix 20 grains sulphate 
of quinia, 2 grains powdered opium, and 5 
minims oleo-resin of pepper, with sufficient 
syrup of gum-arabic to make a masr^. Make 
into 20 pills. Dose, 2 pills every hour in the 
morning of an expected chill. 

4906. Alterative Pills. Take 24 grams 
blue mass, 3 grains pulverized opium, and 3i 
grains powdered ipecacuanha. Make into 24 
pills. 

4907. Vegetable Anti-bilious Pills. 
Take 54 grains pulverized compound extract 
of colocynth, and 6 grains podophyllin (ex- 
tract of may-apple or mandrake root). Make 
into 24 pills. 

4908. Anti-chill Pills. Take 20 grains 
chinoidine, 40 grains ferrocyanuret of iron, 20 
grains oil of black pepper, and 1 grain arsenic. 
Make up into 20 pills. 

4909. Aperient Pills. Take 8 grains 
nux-vomica, 12 grains extract of henbane, 
and 48 grains compound extract of colocynth. 
Make into 24 pills. 

4910. Diuretic Pills. Take 40 grains 
powdered castile soap, 40 grains dry carbonate 
of soda, and 20 drops oil of juniper. Make 
into 20 pills. 

4911. Gonorrhea Pills. Take 48 grains 
powdered cubebs, 24 grains solid balsam of 
copaiba (powdered), 12 grains sulphate of 
iron, and 36 gi-ains Yenice turpentine. Make 
into 24 piUs. 

4912. Mandrake Mercurial Pills. 
Take 6 grains ])odo])liyTlin (extract of man- 
drake or may apple), and 48 grains blue pill. 
Make into 24 pills. 

4913. Podophyllin, Aloes, and Iron 
Pills. Take 3 grains podophyllin, 15 grains 
socotrine aloes, 15 grains extract of nux- 
vomica, 45 grains dry sulphate of iron, 10 
drops oil of cloves, and sufficient syrup of 
gum-arabic to make into a mass. Divide into 
30 pills. Dose, 1 pill immediately before each 
meal. A good remedy for indigestion, with 
costiveness. 

4914. Opium Pills. Mix 2 drachms 
opium and 24 grains soap with water, to make 
120 piUs. 

4915. Iodide of Iron Pills, Mix 1 
drachm sulphate of iron, 4 scruples iodide 
of potassium, 10 grains tragacanth, and | 
drachm sugar with syrup. Make into 40 
pills. 

4916. Compound Iron Pills. Triturate 
together 2 drachms myrrh and 1 drachm car- 
bonate of soda ; then add 1 drachm sulphate 
of iron, and make up with syrup into 80 pills. 

4917. Compound Cathartic Pills. Take 
5 ounce compound extract of colocynth, 3 
drachms extract of jalap, 3 drachms mild 
chloride of mercury, and 2 scruples gamboge; 
mix with water to make 180 piUs. 

4918. Copaiba Pills. Mix 2 ounces 
copaiba with 1 drachm fresh magnesia ; set it 
aside to dry, and, when the mass is of proper 
consistenc3% make into 200 piUs. 

4919. Mercurial Pills. These are com- 
monly known as hlue pills. Eub 1 ounce mer- 
cury with 1^ ounces confection of roses; 
add i ounce liquorice root, and divide into 480 
pills. 



OINTMENTS, SALVES, AND CERATES. 



44.7 



4920. Calomel Pills. Mix i ounce 
mild chloride of mercury with 1 drachm pow- 
dered gum-arabic. Make up -with syrup, into 
240 pills. 

4921. Compound Galbanum Pills. 6 
drachms myrrh, and 2 drachms assafcetida, 
mixed -with sufficient syrup. Make 240 pills. 

4922. Hhubarb Pills. Mix 3 drachms 
powdered rhubarb and 1 drachm soap with 
water to make 60 pills. 

4923. Compound Rhubarb Pills, 
Form into a mass with sufficient water, 1 
ounce rhubarb, 6 drachms aloes, i ounce 
myrrh, and i fluid drachm oil of peppermint. 
Divide into 240 pills. 

4924. Compound Pills of Squill. Mix 

1 drachm powdered squill, 2 drachms ammo- 
niac, and 2 drachms ginger, with 3 drachms 
soap. Make up with syrup into 120 pills. 

4925. Compound Storax Pills. Take 
6 drachms of storax, 2 drachms of powdered 
opium, and 2 drachms of safiron ; work up to 
the proper consistency of a pill mass. Dose, 
from 5 to 10 grains. 

4926. Sulphur Pills. The following 
formulae furnish a convenient and neat method 
of administering sulphur when this useful 
medicine is required to be given as an altera- 
tive in chronic rheumatism and certain dis- 
eases of the skin : Take sulphur, 42 grains ; 
castile soap, 18 grains. Mix and divide into 12 
pills. 1 to 3 pills for a dose, morning and 
night. Or : Take sulphur and acetate of po- 
tassa, of each 24 grains. Make up with suffi- 
cient confection of roses into 12 pills. 1 or 

2 twice a day in scorbutic and scrofulous 
cases, and when sulphur generally is indicated. 

4927. Sulphite of Soda Pills. Dr. 
PoUi, who introduced the sulphites to the 
notice of the medical profession in certain 
blood diseases, recommends the following 
formula : Take powdered sulphite of soda, 36 
grains; powdered ginger, 12 grains. Make 
up with mucilage into 12 pills. Dose, 1 to 3 
soon after eating. These are given when the 
stomach is foul, and the food ferments and 
becomes putrescent. The sulphite of magne- 
sia. Dr. Polli says, is better for this purpose 
than sulphite of soda. Sulphur obtained by 
decomposing precipitated sulphide of copper, 
called hroicn sulphur, is stated by Dr. J. Han- 
non, an English Physician, to be a most 
powerful remedy against gout and rheuma- 
tism. 

4928. Pepsine and Iron Pills. Mix 
together 2 drachms 34 grains starchy pepsine, 
and half that weight of iodide of iron in 
crystals, with sufficient syrup to make 100 
pills. Cover them with 2^ drachms reduced 
iron, and finish with sugar-coating. 

4929. Compound Taraxacum PHls. 
Take ^ drachm extract of taraxacum, and 10 
grains blue pill. Make into 10 pills. Dose, 1 
pill three times a day, in dropsy with disease 
of the liver. 

4930. Pills of Iodide of Iron. Mix h 
troy ounce iodme with 1 fluid ounce water in 
a thin glass bottle ; add 2 drachms iron wire 
m small pieces, and shake together until a 
clear green solution is formed. Mix 1 troy 
ounce sugar, i troy ounce marshmallow, 1 
drachm gum-arabic, and 1 drachm reduced 
iron, all in fine powder, in a porcelain capsule. 
Filter upon them, through a small filter, first 



the green solution, heated, and afterwards 2 
fluid drachms water. Evaporate over a water- 
bath with constant stirring, to a mass, and 
divide it into 300 piUs. Dissolve 60 grains 
balsam of tolu in 1 fluid drachm ether, shake 
the pills in the solution until uniformly coated, 
and place them on a plate, occasionally stir- 
ring them until dry. Keep in a well stop- 
pered bottle. ( r. S. Ph.) The iodide of iron 
pills, as ordinarily prepared, crumble by time 
and exposure ; but, made according to the 
above formula, they will undergo no change. 
This is the plan proposed by Prof. Procter in 
imitation of Blancard's Pills. ( U. S. Dis.) 



Ointments, Salves, and 
Cerates. ointments are unc- 
tuous preparations, that merely difier from 
cerates in consistence, being made and used 
in a similar manner. Their solidity should 
not exceed that of good butter, at the ordi- 
nary temperature of the atmosphere. When 
the active ingredients are pulverulent substan- 
ces, nothing can be more suitable to form the 
mass of the ointment than good lard, free 
from salt ; but when they are fluid, or semi- 
fluid, prepared suet, or a mixture of suet and 
lard, will be necessary to give a proper con- 
sistence to the compound; in some few in- 
stances wax is ordered for this purpose. 
Glycerine is now frequently prescribed in 
ointments, and is difficult to mix. Suppose 
it be ordered with ziac ointment, as is often 
the case, do not use ready-made zinc ointment, 
but weigh the proper quantity of oxide, rub 
the glycerine with it, and then add the lard. 
This makes a good smooth ointment which 
does not separate. Of course, the same plan 
can be adopted with any other powder. If 
there be no powder, melt the ointment, but 
do not let it get too hot, and beat the glycer- 
ine in and stir till cold ; it then mixes much 
better ; but still, if there be a large proportion 
of glycerine, it will separate after a time. 
(See No. 5009, ^-c.) Unctuous preparations 
maybe prevented from getting rancid, by dis- 
solving in the fat a little gum-benzoin or ben- 
zoic acid. The term cerate is applied to those 
unguents which contain wax. A number of 
these preparations are given here, and others 
will be found, by referring to the Index, under 
their respective headings. 

4932. Simple Cerate. Melt together 
8 ounces lard, and 4 ounces white wax, stir- 
ring constantly until cold. ( U. S. Ph.) 

4933. Spermaceti Cerate. Melt to- 
gether 2 ounces spermaceti, 8 ounces white 
wax, and 1 pint warm olive oil, and stir assi- 
duously until cold. This is used as a soft 
cooling dressing. As soon as the materials 
are melted, they should be moved from the 
fire, strained into a clean vessel, and stirred 
until cold. To facilitate the cooling, the ves- 
sel may be placed in cold water or a current 
of cold ah*. This will render the product 
both whiter and finer than when allowed to 
cool by itself. The operation of melting 
should be performed in a water-bath. On 
the large scale lard or suet is substituted for 
oil, by which means less wax is required. 
The following is a good form where a cheap 



4.4.8 



OINTMENTS, SALVES, AND CERATES. 



article is wanted 

pounds ; white wax and spermaceti, of each | 

pounds. As above. 

4934. Chilblain Ointment. Take of 
gall-nuts, in very fine powder, 1 draclim 
avoirdupois ; spermaceti cerate {see No. 
4933), 7 drachms; mix, add pure glycerine, 
2 drachms, and rub the whole to a uniform 
mass. An excellent application to obstinate 
broken chilblains, particularly when used as a 
dressing. When the parts are very painful, 1 
ounce of compound ointment of galls may be 
advantageously substituted for the galls and 
cerate ordered above. (See No. 5008.) 

4935. Family Salve. Take the root of 
yellow dock and dandelion, equal parts ; add 
good proportion of celandine and plantain. 
Extract the juices by steeping or pressing. 
Strain carefully, and simmer t£e liquid with 
sweet cream, or fresh butter and mutton 
tallow, or sweet oil and mutton tallow. 
Simmer together until no appearance of the 
liquid remains. Before it is quite cold, put 
it into boxes. This is one of the most sooth- 
ing and healing preparations for bums, scalds, 
cuts, and sores of every everv description. 

4936. Salve for All Wounds. Take 1 
pound hog's lard, 3 ounces white lead, 3 oun- 
ces red lead, 3 ounces bees'-wax, 2 ounces 
black resin, and 4 ounces common turpentine ; 
all these ingredients must be put together in 
a pan, and boil f of an hour ; the turpentine 
to be put in just before it is done enough, and 
give it a gentle boil afterwards. This is an 
excellent cure for burns, sores, or ulcerS;, as it 
first draws, then heals afterwards ; it is excel- 
lent for all wounds. 

4937. Lard Ointment. Melt 2 pounds 
pure lard, add 3 fiuid ounces rose-water, and 
beat them well together while hot. "When 
cold, separate the congealed fat from the 
water. This is simple lard ointment. 

4938. Savine Ointment. Savine tops, 
dried and in fine powder, 1 drachm ; ointment 
of white wax (sihaple ointment), 7 drachms; 
mix by trituration. 

4939. Simple Ointment of White 
Wax. Olive oil, 5i fluid ounces ; white 
wax, 2 ounces ; melted together and stirred 
while cooling. 

4940. Spermaceti Ointment. Melt 
together 5 ounces spermaceti, 14 drachms 
white wax, and about 1 pint olive oil. The 
article commonly sold as spermaceti oint- 
ment is composed of 1 pound spermaceti, 5 
pound white wax, and from 3 to 6 pounds 
pure lard. 

4941. Camphor Ointment. Camphor, 
finely powdered, 1 ounce; lard, 2 ounces. 
Mix. ft is designed to ripen indolent tumors. 

4942. Compound Iodine Ointment. 
Mix 1 drachm iodide of potassium in very 
fine powder, with 2 ounces lard ; then add i 
drachm iodine dissolved in 1 fluid drachm 
rectified spirit. 

I Fresh lard cannot always be got, and as 
I '"ong as simple cerate is directed to be made 
Ir with white wax, an already rancid body, it 
happens very often that an ointment of 
iodide of potassium gets yellow, instead of 
being perfectly white. A few grains of hy- 
posulphite of soda dissolved in a little water, 
added to such ointment, will have the effect 
of turning it snow-white. 



4943. Compound Belladonna Oint- 
ment. Mix 1 drachm fresh extract of bel- 
ladonna with 7 drachms of compound iodine 
ointment. (See No. 4942.) For dispersing 
glandular tumors, &c., which it is not desira- 
ble to mature. 

4944. Ammoniacal Ointment. Melt 
1 ounce each of suet and lard, in a strong 
wide-mouthed bottle; add 2 ounces liquor of 
ammonia of specific gravity .923, and close 
the bottle immediately. Then mix, by sha- 
king the bottle, until the contents harden. 
The fat should not be heated any more than 
is sufficient to melt it, to prevent unneces- 
sary loss of ammonia. 

4945. Catechu Ointment for Tropical 
CHmates. An astringent ointment may be 
prepared, which is not likely to become soon 
rancid, as is the case with ointments made 
with fat. Melt 4 ounces resin in 5 pint olive 
oil ; add 1 ounce alum and 3 ounces catechu, 
both finely powdered. 

4946. Stramonium Ointment. Mash 
k bushel of green stramonium, or jimson 
leaves, to a pulp (this is best done by mash- 
ing a few leaves at a time), put the pulp in 
an iron kettle over a slow fire. Add 2i 
pounds fresh lard, and simmer to a crisp. 
Strain and box for use. Or: Take extract of 
stramonium, 1 drachm; lard, 1 ounce, and mix 
by trituration. This ointment is excellent 
for strengthening broken limbs after the 
bones have healed. It is also good for skin 
diseases, painful piles, ulcers, burns and 
scalds. It is probably the best ointment that 
can be kept in a family for general use. 

4947. Citrine Ointment. Dissolve 1^ 
ounces mercury in 3 5 ounces nitric acid. Stir 
till effervescence ceases. Heat 16,} ounces 
lard to 200° Fahr., in an earthen vessel, and 
add the solution, stirring constantly until 
thoroughly amalgamated. — ( U. S. Ph.) 

4948. Mercurial Ointment. Triturate 
24 ounces mercury with 12 ounces each lard 
and suet. Mild Mercurial Ointment is com- 
posed of 1 part lard added to 2 parts Mercu- 
rial Ointment— ( CT: S. Ph.) 

4949. Magnetic Adeps. This is a pre- 
pared fat used tor making mercurial ointment, 
as it will reduce 30 to 40 times its weight of 
quicksilver to salve. It is made by pouring 
melted lard, in a small stream, into cold water, 
placing the thin fragments thus obtained in a 
sieve covered with paper, or other suitable 
apparatus, and exposing it to the air for 3 or 
4 months. 

4950. Ointment of Iodide of Sulphur. 
Keduce 30 grains iodide of sulphur to a fine 
powder, rub it with a small portion taken 
from 1 troy ounce lard, then add the remain- 
der of the ounce of lard, and mix them 
thoroughly. (U. S. Ph.) 

4951. Ointment of Borax. This is 
also called Pomade de Toscanie. Take of 
borax in very fine powder, 1 drachm avoir- 
dupois ; spermaceti ointment, 1 ounce ; mix 
by trituration. In excoriations, chaps, <fec. 
It also forms an excellent lip-salve. A drop 
of neroli, or 5 drop of otto of roses, renders it 
more agreeable. 

4952. Glycerinated Ointment of 
Borax. To the borax ointment, as prepared 
in the foregoing receipt, add 1 drachm avoir- 
dupois pure glycerine, using a slightly 



OINTMENTS, SALVES, ^ND GEE ATE S, 



4r4.9 



flrarraed mortar for the mixture. This is a 
very effective ointment. 

4953. Ointment of Creosote, or Creo- 
sote Pomade. Take of creosote, 1 fluid 
drachm; spermaceti ointment {see No. 4940), 
1 ounce avoirdupois ; triturate them together 
in a slightly Tvarmed mortar until perfectly 
united, and subsequently until nearly cold. 

, It is used as a dressing for scalds and burns, 
chilblains, &c. It is very useful in ringworm 
and some other skin diseases ; also as a fric- 
tion in facial neuralgia or tic-douloureux. 

4954. Ointment for the Itch. The 
usual treatment of itch has been noticed 
elsewhere, and various lotions, ointments and 
pomades, of more or less value in its treat- 
ment, vfdll be found under the names of their 
leading ingredients. Here are two additional 
formulae : 

4955. French Hospital Itch Oint- 
ment. Take of chloride of lime, 1 drachm 
avoirdupois ; rectified spirit, 2 fluid drachms; 
rub them together, add k flnid ounce sweet- 
oil; soft-soap, 2 ounces aviordupois; oil of 
lemon, \ fluid drachm; mix perfectly, and 
then further add common salt and sulphur, of 
each 1 ounce. Cheap, very effective, and 
much less offensive than sulphur ointment. 

4956. Stavesacre Ointment. Melt to- 
gether 1 ounce powdered stavesacre (staphis- 
agria), and 3 ounces lard; digest fcr 3 or 4 
hours, and strain. A cleanly remedy for 
itch, and for destroying body vermin. 

4957. Ointment for Baker's Itch. 
Mix well together I ounce ointment of nitrate 
of mercury {see No. 4947), and 1 ounce palm 
oil. 

4958. Venice Turpentine Ointment. 
Tenice turpentine, 2 ounces; tar, 1 ounce; 
butter, 4 ounces. Simmer until they are well 
mixed. This is very good for scald-head, 
ringworm, &c. First wash the head well 
with soap and water, and then apply the 
ointment. 

4959. Brown Ointment. Extract of 
henbane, 1 drachm ; yellow wax^ k ounce ; 
red precipitate, 2| drachms ; pure zinc, pow- 
dered, 1^ drachms; fresh butter, 3 ounces. 
Melt and mix, and add 14 drachms camphor 
dissolved in oHve oil. This ointment is good 
for ringworm, all cutaneous eruptions, for 
nlcers, sore lips, itch, chronic ophthalmia, &c. 

4960. Tar Ointment. Tar and mutton 
suet, equal parts ; melt together, and stir till 
cold. This is an excellent remedy for scald- 
head and ringworm. 

4961. Tobacco Ointment. Fresh to- 
bacco leaves, chopped small, 1 ounce ; lard, 1 
pound; boil till crisp, and strain through lime. 
U sed for ringworm, irritable ulcers, and other 
diseases of the skin. It should be used with 
caution. 

4962. Salt Rheum Ointment. Mix in 
an earthen vessel, 1 ounce aqua-fortis, with 1 
ounce quicksilver; when effervescence has 
ceased, incorporate with it 1 pound lard and 
1 ounce dissolved hard soap ; then work 
into the mixture 1 ounce prepared chalk 
and i table-spoonful spirits of turpentine. 

4963. Magnetic Ointment. Lard, rai- 
sins cut in pieces, and fine-cut tobacco, equal 
weights ; simmer well together, then strain 
%nd press out all from the dregs. This is an 
excellent ointment for salt-rheum and other 



skin diseases. It is also good for piles, bruis- 
es, and cuts. 

4964. BasiHcon Ointment. Take 10 
ounces resin, 4 ounces yellow wax, and 16 
ounces lard; melt them together, strain 
througb muslin, and stir constantly until 
cool. This is the resin ointment of the TJ. S. 
Pharmacopoeia. The British officinal pre- 
paration contains only 8 ounces resin, and 
substitutes simple ointment for the lard. 

4965. Yellow Basilicon Ointment. 
Yellow wax, 8 ounces ; burgundy pitch, 3 
ounces ; Yenice turpentine, 4 ounces; linseed 
oil, 10 ounces. First melt the resin, to 
which add the wax and the burgundy pitch, 
TYhen the whole is melted, remove from the 
fire, and slowly put in the oil, stirring well 
till it is cold. For healing cuts, abscesses, &c. 

4966. Black Basilicon Ointment. 
Black basilicon, yellow wax, and yellow 
resin, 10 ounces ; common pitch, 5 ounces. 
Melt as before, and add 10 ounces linseed oil 
when taken from the fire. 

4967. Green Basilicon Ointment. 
Yellow wax and yellow resin, of each 3 oun- 
ces ; Yenice turpentine, 6 ounces ; powdered 
verdigris, 1 ounce ; lard, 6 ounces. Melt first 
the resin, &c., as before. Yery efficacious in 
healing cuts, abscesses, and local affections 
of any kind. 

4968. Saturnine Cerate. Powdered 
acetate of lead, 2 drachms ; white wax, 2 oun- 
ces ; olive oil, ^ pint. Melt the wax in the 
oil, and add gradually the acetate of lead, 
separately rubbed down with a portion of the 
oil reserved for that purpose. 

4969. Hemlock Salve. Hemlock omt- 
ment, 12 ounces; spermaceti, 2 ounces; 
white wax, 3 ounces ; melt the last two, then 
add them to the first, softened by a gentle 
heat. Used for inveterate cancerous, scrofu- 
lous, and other sores. 

4970. Green Stick Salve. According to 
the American Dispensatory, this is prepared by 
taking white gum turpentine, bayberry wax, 
of each 2 ounces ; melt together, strain, and 
stir till cold ; adding olive oil will give it the 
consistence of an ointment. 

4971. Black, or Healing Salve. 
Olive oil, 1 pint; common resin, 5 ounce; 
bees'-wax, 5 ounce ; Yenice turpentine, i 
ounce. Melt, raising the oil nearly to the 
boiling point ; then gradually add 2 or 3 oun- 
ces powdered red lead while on the fire ; do 
not burn it; boil slowly till it becomes a 
dark brown; remove from the fire, and add 1 
drachm powdered camphor when it is nearly 
cold. This is a first-ral;e healing salve, supe- 
rior to most; is wonderful in burns, scalds, 
scrofulous, fistulous, and all other ulcers. 
Spread on linen, and renew daily. 

4972. Red Salve. Red lead, 1 pound ; 
bees'-wax and resin, of each 2 ounces ; linseed 
and sweet oils, of each 3 table-spoonfuls; 
spirits of tui-pentine, 1 tea-spoonful ; melt all, 
except the first and last, together, then stir 
in the lead and stir until cool, adding the 
turpentine. Good for all inflamed sores. 

4973. Green Salve. White pine tur- 
pen tine and lard, ^ pound each ; honey and 
bees'-wax, i pound each ; melt all together 
and stir in k ounce of very finely pulverized 
verdigris. This ointment cannot be surpassed 
when used for deep wounds. It prevents 



450 



OINTMENTS, SALVES, AND CEBATES. 



proud flesh from forming, and keeps up a 
healthy discharge. 

4974. Green Ointment. Take prepared 
subacetate of copper, -^ drachm; ointment of 
white wax {see No. 4939), 7^ drachms. Trit- 
urate the subacetate of copper with the oint- 
ment until they are intimately mixed. A 
mild caustic, applied to venereal ulcers of the 
mouth and tonsils, and to the ulcerated sore 
throat of scarletina. 

4975. Cod-Liver Oil Ointment. Melt 
together 1 part white wax, 1 part spermaceti, 
and 7 parts pale cod-liver oil. Used for 
ophthalmia, scrofulous sores, rheumatism, stiff 
joints, and some skia diseases, including ring- 
worm. Scented with oil of nutmeg and bal- 
sam of Peru it forms an excellent pomade for 
strengthening and restoring the hair. 

4976. Ointment for Old Sores. Ked 
precipitate, k ounce ; sugar of lead, 5 ounce ; 
burnt alum, 1 ounce; white vitriol, J ounce 
or a little less ; all to be very finely pulver- 
ized; have mutton tallow made warm, 5 
pound; stir all in, and stir until cool. Good. 

4977. Bitter-Sweet Ointment. Bark 
-of bitter-sweet root, 2 ounces; cover with 
spirits of wine, and add, unsalted butter, 8 
ounces. Simmer and strain. Excellent for 
swelled breasts, tumors, ulcers, &c. It may 
be applied twice a day. 

4978. Astringent Ointment. Tritu- 
Tate \k drachms powdered catechu with 2 
fluid drachms boiling water ; add, gradually, 
IJ ounces spermaceti ointment, continuing 
the trituration until the mass concretes. This 
is an excellent dressing for sores and ulcers, 
especially during hot weather. 

4979.*^ Neuralgia Ointment. Take 2 
■drachms each of cyanide of potassium, and 
chloroform, and make into a salve with 1 
ounce lard, for external appHcation. 

4980. Ointment of Lead. Take of 
olive oil, 2 pint; white wax, 2 ounces; sugar 
of lead, 3 drachms. Let the sugar of lead, 
reduced to a fine powder, be rubbed with 
some of the oil, and added to the other in- 
gredients, previously melted together, stirring 
them till quite cold. This cooling astringent 
ointment may be used in all cases where the 
intention is to dry and skin over the part, in 
scalding, &c. 

4981. ^inc Ointment. Mix 1 ounce 
oxide of zinc and 6 ounces lard. This is 
astringent, desiccative, and stimulant; an 
excellent and useful application for burns, 
'excoriations, and skin diseases attended by 
discharges. 

4983. Chloroform Ointment for Neu- 
ralgic Pains. Mix 1 drachm chloroform 
with 1 ounce spermaceti ointment. {See No. 
4933.) This should be kept in a wide- 
mouthed, stoppered phial. 

4983. Belladonna Anodyne Oint- 
ment. Mix 3 drachms fresh and good extract 
of belladonna, 5 drachm powdered opium, 
and 3 drachms lard. For neuralgia, Ac, ap- 
ply with friction for 6 to 8 minutes. 

4984. Aconitine Ointment. Aconitine, 
16 grains; alcohol, 12 drops; olive oil, k 
drachm; lard, 1 ounce. Rub the aconitine 
with the spirit, then add the oil by drops, and, 
after it is thoroughly mixed, pour in the lard 
rendered nearly liquid by heat; stir well 
amtil cold. A small portion is applied by the 



tips of the fingers and gentle friction, hi neu 
ralgic and rheumatic affections, &g. 

4985. Ointment for Sore Nipple*. 
Grlycerine, rose-water, and tannin, equal 
weights, rubbed together into an ointment, 
is very highly recommended for sore 01 
cracked nipples. 

4986. Tannin Ointment for Piles. 
Tannin, 2 drachms ; water, 2 fluid drachms ; 
tritm-ate together, and add lard, li drachms. 
An excellent application for piles. 

4987. Spackman's Pile Ointment. 
Mix together li ounces carbonate of lead; 6 
grains sulphate of morphia ; 1 ounce stramo- 
nium ointment {see No. 4946) ; and sufficient 
olive oil to make into a salve. 

4988. Ointment for Piles. Triturate 
8 grains morphia in 1 ounce melted sperma- 
ceti ointment {see No. 4940), until the mor- 
phia is dissolved; then add I5 drachms of 
galls in impalpable powder, 12 to 15 drops es- 
sential oil of almonds, and stil* until the mass 
is cool. 

4989. Pile Salve. Take 1 scruple pow- 
dered opium, 2 scruples flour of sulphur, and 
1 ounce of simple cerate. {See No. 4932.) 
Keep the affected parts well anointed. Be 
prudent in your diet. 

4990. Salve for Sore Breasts. Take 1 
pound tobacco, 1 pound spikenard, 5 pound 
of cumfrey, and boil them in 3 quarts cham- 
ber-lye till almost dry ; squeeze out the juice, 
add to it pitch and bees'-wax, and simmer it 
over a moderate heat to the consistence of 
salve. Apply it to the part affected. 

4991. Iodide of Lead Ointment. An 
ointment of iodide of lead composed of 4 
parts iodide of lead, 4 parts chloride of ammo- 
nium, and 50 of lard, is either of a yellow or 
white color, according to the manner in which 
these ingredients are brought together. When 
rubbed together dry, the color of the mixture 
is yellow ; but when the chloride of ammo- 
nium, in order to facilitate the mixing, is first 
liquefied in a small quantity of water before 
being added to the iodide of lead, the yellow 
color of the latter disappears, owing to the 
formation of two colorless salts, the chloride 
of lead and iodide of ammonium. It is well 
in cases Hke these to adhere strictly to the 
directions of the prescription. {Eymael.) 

4992. IngaU's Iodoform Ointment. 
Dissolve 5 drachm iodoform in sufficient rec- 
tified alcohol, and make into an ointment 
with 7^ drachms lard. Iodoform is exten- 
sively and successfully used in the treatment 
of syphilitic ulcers and rupia. The above 
formula is the one adopted by Dr. Ingalls, 
attending surgeon of the Boston city hospital. 

4993. Carbolic Cerate. Melt together 
5 ounces lard, and 21 ounces white wax ; add 
2 ounce balsam of fir, and when it begins to 
cool, stir in 5 ounce carbolic acid. The addi 
tion of balsam fir to this preparation corrects 
the disagreeable odor of the acid, and renders 
it slightly adhesive, which is quite desirable 
when used as a dressing for burns, old sores, 
&c. (^eeiVo. 4996.) 

4994. Ointment of Tannate of Man- 
ganese. Mix 3 grains tannate of manganese 
with 1 troy ounce cold cream. {See No. 1125.) 
Thi!^ i^ a good application for bad wounds. 

4995. Tartar Emetic Ointment. Take 
2 drachms potassio-tartrate of antimony, and 



OINTMENTS, SALVES, AND CERATES. 



4:51 



rub it Trell into 1 ounce lard. This •will pro- 
duce an eruption on the skin very similar to 
small-pox in appearance. 

4996. Carbolic Salve. There are differ- 
ent foruiulte recommended for this salve, con- 
taining different amounts of carbolic acid ; 
the character of the disease will determine 
■which to use. The carbolic acid employed is 
the crystallized article, sold in bottles, and 
taken out by vrarming the latter in hot vrater, 
or the fluid resulting from the crystals, -which 
are melted in -warm weather, or are dissolved 
by absorbing a little "water, when the bottles 
are not perfectly stoppered. 

I. Take carbolic acid, k fluid drachm, and 
lard, 1 aunce. Triturate together in a porce- 
lain mortar. 

II. Take carbolic acid, 1 fluid drachm, and 
lard, 3 ounces. Melt the lard at a gentle heat, 
add the carbolic acid, and triturate until the 
mixture is cold. 

III. Take carbolic acid, 1 fluid drachm, 
and ointment of white wax {see No. 4939), 
7 drachms. Prepare as E"o. II. {See No. 
4993.) 

4997. Cerate of Savine. Moisten 3 
troy ounces savine in fine powder with 
ether; pack it firmly in a cyhndrical per- 
colator, and displace with ether until the 
percolate passes nearly colorless. Evaporate 
spontaneously to the consistence of syrup, 
add it to 12 troy ounces resin cerate softened 
by a gentle heat, and mix thoroughly. 

4998. Sulphiir Ointment. Mix to- 
gether 1 ounce sublimed sulphm* and 2 ounces 
lard. 

4999. Itch Ointment. "VTashed sul- 
phur, 1 5 ounces ; chloride of lime, 2 drachms ; 
hog's lard, 4 ounces. Mix and make into an 
ointment. 

5000. Cucumber Ointment. Take of 
oil of sweet almonds, 7 fluid ounces; sper- 
maceti, 18 drachms ; white wax, 5 drachms ; 
glycerine, 1 fluid ounce ; green cucumbers, 4 
pounds. Cut the cucumbers in small pieces, 
mash them in a wedgwood mortar, let them 
macerate in their own liquor for 12 hours, 
express and strain ; melt the almond oil, 
spermaceti, and wax together, by means 
of a water-bath ; add to it the strained 
liquor, stirring constantly so as to incorporate 
the whole together. Set aside in a cool place 
(an ice-chest preferred) till it becomes hard, 
then beat with a wooden spoon, so as to sep- 
arate the watery portion of the cucumbers 
from the ointment ; pour off the liquor thus 
obtained, and mix the glycerine with the 
ointment without the aid of heat, by work- 
ing it with the hands until it becomes thor- 
oughly incorporated. Pat up in 4-ounce 
jars, cover with a layer of rose-water, and 
set a^ide in a cool place. 

5001. Foot-Rot Ointment. Lard and 
Yenice turpentine, 4 ounces of each ; melt 
and add 1 ounce blue vitriol. Good for cows 
or sheep. 

5002. Cracked Hoof Ointment. Tar 
and tallow, equal parts melted together. 

5003. Compound Resin Cerate. Melt 
togethei' 12 troy ounces each of resin, suet, 
and yellow wax ; 6 troy ounces turpentine, 
and 7 troy ounces flax-seed oil. Strain 
through muslin, and stir constantly till cool. 
{U. S. Ph.) This preparation, also known as 



Deshler's Salve, should be kept well protected 
from the air, as it is liable to become tough 
by exposure. ( U. S. Dis.) 

5004. Egyptiacum Salve. Take 1| 
ounces verdigris, 1^ ounces alum, -J ounce 
sulphate of copper, -J- ounce corrosive subli- 
mate, all in powder; boil over a slow fire 
with 2i ounces vinegar and h pound honey 
until of a proper consistence. Stir up well 
before using. 

5005. Egyptian Ointment. A deter- 
gent application for foul ulcers, &c. Mix by 
heat and agitation, 10 parts verdigris, 1 part 
calcined alum, 14 parts strong vinegar, and 
32 parts thick purified honey. 

5006. Compound Gall Ointment. 
Rub together 6 drachms very finely pow- 
dered gall-nuts, li drachms powdered opium, 
and 6 ounces lard. 

5007. German Black Salve. Lard, 
24 parts ; white oxide of zinc and Peruvian 
balsam, of each 3 parts; nitrate of silver, 
finely pulverized, 1 part. This formula is 
taken from the Hamburg Pharmacopoeia. 

5008. To Keep Ointment from Be- 
coming Rancid. About 2 per cent, of 
finely powdered gum benzoin, or a less 
quantity of benzoic acid dissolved in the 
fatty matter by heat, will greatly retard, 
if not wholly prevent, the ointment from 
turning rancid. 

5009. Schacht's Glycerine of Starch, 
or Plasma. The use of fatty matter as the 
vehicle for drugs in preparing ointments and 
cerates is sometimes open to objection. The 
remedies introduced are frequently insoluble 
in fat, which consequently acts to a certain 
extent in defending the skin from, instead of 
facilitating the perfect action of the remedy. 
Aqueous remedies are difficult to mix with 
fat without soap or some otherwise needless 
addition. Another strong objection is the 
tendency of fatty matter to become rancid 
in contact with the skin. Mr. Gr. F. Schacht 
proposes a substitute consisting of 1 fluid 
ounce pure glycerine and 70 grains starch 
powder. These are mixed while cold, and 
then gradually heated to about 240° Fahr., 
constantly stirring ; he gives this preparation 
the name oi plasma. This constitutes a basis 
whose consistence is good, and does not vary 
with changes of temperature ; it is soluble in 
water, and may consequently be removed 
from tender surfaces with the greatest ease ; 
it dissolves and thoroughly mingles with all 
materials that are soluble in water, and there- 
fore presents such remedies in the condition 
most favorable for absorption ; and, lastly, it 
is not liable to rancidity. "With plasma sub- 
stituted for fat, may be produced preparations 
corresponding to most of the cerates and oint- 
ments of the Pharmacopoeia, but free from 
the special objections before alluded to. The 
plasma should be kept in a closely corked 
bottle. The following plasmas are proposed 
by Mr. Schacht as improvements on the corre- 
sponding ointments of the Pharmacopoeia. 

5010. Schacht's Cantharides Plasma. 
Evaporate the decoction of Spanish flies to an 
extract, and mix with the plasma, using the 
same proportions as laid down for cantharides 
ointment. {See No. hOYI.) 

5011. Schacht's Mercurial Plasma. 
Mix 14 drachms starch with 6 fluid ounces 



4r53 



POULTICES. 



glycerine, gradually adding 12 ounces mercury, 
and stirring till the globules disappear. Then 
add 6 fluid ounces glycerine^ and heat to 240^ 
^ahr., constantly stirring. 

5012. Schaclit's Glycerinated Nitrate 
of Mercury. Take 1 drachm terbasic ni- 
trate of mercury, and 1 ounce plasma. 

5013. Schacht's Glycerinated Iodide 
of Potassium. Dissolve 2 drachms iodide 
<)f potassium in 2 fluid ounces glycerine; 
add 140 grains starch, and heat to 240° Fahr. 

5014. Schacht's Glycerinated Petro- 
leum. Rub 1 drachm petroleum with 70 
grains starch until quite smooth, then add 
gradually 1 fluid ounce glycerine. 

5015. Glycerinated^ Iodine. This is 
recommended for loss of voice, and is com- 
posed of 16 grains of iodine iu 1 ounce inodor- 
ous glycerine. The addition of starch to this 
is not advisable, as it "^ould convert the iodine 
into iodide of starch. 

6016. Narcotic Glycerole, for external 
use, applied on liut. Take 1 part aqueous 
extract of opium, 4 parts extract of bella- 
donna, and 60 parts glycerine. 

5017. Cantharides Ointment. Infuse 
for 12 hours 1 ounce avoirdupois of canthar- 
ides in 6 imperial fluid ounces olive oil in a 
covered vessel. Place the vessel in boiling 
water for 15 minutes, press through muslin, 
and add 1 ounce melted yellow wax, stirring 
constantly tiU cool. {Br. Pli.) 



Poultices. External applications, 
used to promote suppm-ation, allay pain 
and inflammation, resolve tumors, &c. They 
are generally prepared with substances capa- 
ble of absorbing much water, and assuming a 
pulpy consistence, so as to admit of their 
application to any surface, however irregular. 
Their curative action principally depends on 
the liquids with which they are moistened, 
and the heat retained by the mass. The ad- 
dition of a little lard, olive oil, or, still better, 
glycerine, to a poultice, promotes emollient 
action and retards hardening. A fold or two 
of lint dipped ta hot water, either simple or 
medicated, and covered with a thin, sheet of 
gutta-percha, or India-rubber cloth, to prevent 
evaporation, may often be conveniently em- 
ployed instead of a poultice. Spongio-piline 
{see No. 5039) is still better for this pm-pose 
than lint. The following are the principal 
poultices, but others may be found by referring 
to the Index. 

5019. Bread Poultice. Take stale 
bread in crumbs, pour bofling water over it, 
and boil tUl soft, stirring it well ; then take it 
from the fire, and gradually stir in a little 
glycerine or sweet oil, so as to render the 
poultice pliable when applied. 

5020. Slippery Elm Poultice. Take 
a sufficient quantitj' of pulverized slippery 
elm bark; stn it in hot or warm milk and 
water, to the consistence of a poultice. This 
is a most efficacious poultice; is of almost 
universal application, and removes inflamma- 
tion sooner than any other. If tincture of 
myrrh be added, it is valuable in boils, ulcers, 
carbuncles, &c. 



5021. Mustard Poultice. Take equa\ 
parts of ground mustard and ground flax-seed, 
and mix them thoroughly together, with 
barely enough of water to make them of the 
thickness of common paste. To prevent 
sticking, a little glycerine or sweet oil is to 
be added. The addition of bread crumbs 
serves to diminish, that of a little vinegar to 
increase the imtating power of the mustard. 

5022. Strong Mustard Poultice. Mix 
the best English ground mustard with strong 
vinegar; spread it on a piece of book or 
tarleton muslin, to prevent its adhesion to the 
skin. T7et the part first with vinegar, and 
applv the poultice. 

5023. Linseed Poultice. Take of lin- 
seed, powdered, 4 ounces ; hot water, \ pint. 
Gradually sprinkle the powder into, and stir 
well with a spoon. This is good and conve- 
nient for many cases. It is preferable to the 
bread and milk poultice so much in use, as it 
is not so liable to become brittle and hard 
when dry. It is very useful in. carbuncle, 
obstinate inflammation, &c. 

5024. Carrot Poultice. Take of boiled 
caiTots, bruised, 1 pound ; flour, 1 ounce ; but- 
ter, a ounce. Mix them with a sufficient 
quantity of hot water to form a pulp. This 
will be found a valuable application in ulcera- 
ted sores and swellings, scrofulous sores of an 
irritable kind, and many other inveterate ul- 
cers. 

5025. Poultice for Sprains and Bruis- 
es. Carbonate ammonia, 2 ounces ; vinegar, 
2 pints ; proof spirits, 3 pints. Mix the am- 
monia and vinegar; when the effervescence 
ceases, add the spirit. For inflammation of 
the joints, of some standing, mix with ani- 
seed meal, and use as a poultice twice a day. 
It is also valuable for sprains, bruises, and 
other injuries. 

5026. Charcoal Poultice. Linseed meal, 
5 pound ; charcoal powder, 2 ounces ; hot wa- 
ter, sufficient to give it the necessary consist- 
ence. Or : Soak 2 ounces bread in i pint 
boiling water; add to this, by degrees, 10 
drachms linseed meal; and, aftei-wards, 2 
drachms powdered fresh charcoal ; then sprin- 
kle 1 drachm powdered charcoal on the sur- 
face of the poultice. This poultice is highly 
antiseptic ; that is to say, it has great power 
in cleansing ulcers and con-ecting a tendency 
to mortification. The power is derived jfrom 
the charcoal, which is remarkable for its puri- 
fying energy. It should be frequently re- 
newed. Dr. Bird, in his work on the medical 
uses of charcoal, gives numerous proofs of the 
efficacy of this application. Besides purify- 
ing and heahng, it conteracts the off"ensive 
smell arising from putrid sores. 

5027. Yeast Poultice. Take of milk, 
blood- warm, 1 pint; yeast, 1 gill. Stir in 
fine slippery elm bark, to fonn a poultice. 
This is a good antiseptic and refrigerant poul- 
tice. Applied to gangrenous ulcers, it is 
more efficacious than any others; it sooner 
arrests mortification, used with proper auxih- 
aries. It is also very serviceable in other 
species of inflammation. 

5028. Indian Turnip Poultice. Take 
of the tops and roots of Indian turnip, if 
green ; if dry, the roots only ; simmer in wa- 
ter, and add slippery elm bark sufficient to 
form a poultice. This poultice is used in the 



PLASTERS. 



453 



treatment of scrofula -^ith the best effect. It 
is superior to every other poultice in scrofula, 
in a state of swelling and inflammation. 

5029. Potato Poultice. Boil the com- 
mon potato, mash or bruise soft, and then stir 
in finely pulverized slippery elm bark. This 
poultice has been used -svith success in oph- 
thalmia (inflammation of the eyes) of an acute 
character, when other means have failed. 

5030. Goulard's Poultice. It is thus 
made: Take I5 drachms extract of lead 
(solution of acetate of lead) ; rectified spirit 
of wine, 2 ounces ; water, 12 ounces ; bread- 
crumb, suflicient to make th3 whole into a 
proper consistence. This poultice is an excel- 
lent application to reduce swelling and inflam- 
mation, and to allay irritation. 

5031. Lobelia Poultice. Linseed meal, 
i ounce ; slippery elm, 1 ounce ; powdered 
lobelia, I5 ounces; ginger, 1 ounce; whiskey 
sufficient to make it. Good for all inflamed 
parts, as the side in pleurisy, liver complaints, 
rheumatism, lumbago. 

5032. Poultice for a Fester. Boil 
bread in lees of strong beer : apply the poul- 
tice in the general manner. This has saved 
many a limb from amputation. 

5033. Alum Poultice. Take of alum, 
in fine powder, 1 drachm avoirdupois, and 
the white of 2 eggs ; shake them together 
until they coagulate. Formerly much used 
in broken chilblains, chaps, sore nipples, 
chronic inflammation of the eyes, &c., ap- 
plied on linen, and covered with a piece of 
fine muslin. 

5034. Hemlock Poultice. Make a 
poultice of Ak ounces linseed meal in 5 pint 
boiling water ; spread on its surface 1 ounce 
extract of hemlock softened with a little hot 
water. This is an anodyne application for 
irritable and painful cancerous, scrofulous, 
and svphilitic sores, tumors, &c. 

5035. Gout Poultice. Dissolve 6 
drachms balm of Mecca in 16 ounces rectified 
spirit ; next digest for 48 hours, 1 ounce each 
of red cinchona bark, sarsapariUa, and sage, 
and 5 ounce saffron, in 32 ounces rectified 
spirits ; filter this, mix it with the solution of 
balm of Mecca, and add twice their weight of 
lime-water. Sprinkle 2 fluid ounces on the 
surface of a hot linseed meal poultice, large 
enough to surround the affected part. 

5036. Soap Poultice. Dissolve 1 ounce 
scraped or sliced white soap in 4 pint boiling 
water, and mix with sufficient bread to make 
a poultice. This is good for scalds and 
bunis. 

5037. Vinegar Poultice. Soak bread 
in vinegar and apply cold; for bruises, ex- 
travasations, black-eyes, &Q,. 

5038. Chlorinated Poultice. Mix 
gradually A\ ounces linseed meal with 6 fluid 
ounces boiling water ; add 2 fluid ounces of a 
solution of chlorinated soda (chloride of so- 
dium), appbed to fcml ulcers, ^c. 

6039. Spongio-piline. This is the 
name of a very iugenious contrivance, recent- 
ly introduced abroad, which may be used 
either as a poultice or as a means of fomenta- 
tion. It consists of wool and small particles ! 
of sponge, apparently felted together, and j 
attached to a skin 'of India-rubber. It is j 
about half an inch in thickness. It will be j 
found of great value and convenience for 



either of the purposes referred to. It retains 
heat for a considerable time, and vinegar, 
laudanum, camphor, hartshorn, etc., can be, 
by its means, placed on the skin, accompani- 
ed by heat and moisture, much more readily, 
and with greater cleanliiiess, than by jneans 
of ordinary poultices. 



Pla/SterS. External applications that 
possess sufficient consistence not to 
adhere to the fingers when cold, but which 
become &oft and adhesive at the temperature 
of the human body. Plasters are chiefly 
composed of unctuous substances united to 
metallic oxides, or to powders, wax, or resin. 
They are usually formed whilst warm, into I 
pound rolls about 8 or 9 inches long, and 
wrapped in paper. ^V\Tien required for use, a 
little is melted off the roll by means of a 
heated iron spatula, and spread upon leather, 
linen, or silk. The less adhesive plasters, 
when spread, are usually surrounded with a 
margin of resin plaster, to cause them to 
adhere. In the preparation of plasters, the 
heat of a water-bath, or steam, should be 
alone employed. 

5041. To Spread Plasters. In spread- 
ing plasters convenience requires and neat- 
ness demands an uncoated marginal edge. 
This is usually secured by pasting strips of 
paper along the edges of the skin or other 
material used, and removing them after the 
spreading of the plaster is affected. It is 
just here that a practical difficulty frequently 
arises. The paper edges are liable, from dry- 
ing of the paste, to adhere so strongly that 
either paper or skin will give way upon an 
attempt at their removal ; the application of 
water will then be necessary to soften the 
attachment, and the final results may be ex- 
pected to present a daubed and uncleanly 
aspect. This difficulty may be entirely 
avoided by applying to the paste brush a 
little glycerine before the adjustment of the 
marginal strips. {Eherf). 

5042. To Prevent Plasters from 
Adhering to Paper. It is recommended 
to dust the latter over with powdered French 
chalk. If a piece of thin paper, moistened 
with olive oil and then wiped dry, be laid 
over a plaster, it will prevent adhesion to the 
wrapping paper. 

5043. Litharge, Lead, or Diachylon 
Plaster. Take 5 pounds litharge in very 
fine powder, 1 gallon olive oil, and 1 quart 
water. Or : 5 ounces litharge, 12 fluid ounces 
olive oil, and 8 fluid ounces water. Unless 
the oil is fully 2^ times the weight of the 
litharge, the plaster soon gets hard and non- 
adhesive. Put the water and litharge into a 
perfectly clean and well poushed tinned cop- 
per or copper pan, mix them together with a 
spatula, add the oil, and boil, stirring con- 
stantly nntil the plaster is sufficiently hard 
when thoroughly cold. This process usually 
occupies from 4 to 5 hours. The operation 
may be completed in from 20 to 30 minutes 
by adding to the litharge and water J pint 
colorless vinegar, for each pound of litharge 
emploved, previous to adding the oil. 

5044. Mahy's White Lead Plaster. 
Boil together 1 pound pure carbonate of lead. 



4=54= 



PLASTIES. 



32 fluid ounces olive oil, and sufficient -^ater, 
constantly stirring until perfectly incorpora- 
ted ; then add 4 ounces yellow wax, and 1^ 
pounds lead plaster ; when these are melted, 
and the mass somewhat cooled, stir in 9 
ounces powdered orris root. This is an appli- 
cation much used for inflamed and excoriated 
surfaces, bed-sores, burns, &c. 

5045. Deschamp's Plaster. Fasten a 
piece of fine muslin, linen, or silk, to a flat 
board; give it a thin coating of smooth, 
strained flour paste. AVTien dry, apply 2 coats 
of colorless gelatine, made into size with 
warm water. This is said to be superior to 
the ordinary court plaster, 

5046. Adhesive Resin Plaster. Kesin 
plaster, spread upon muslin, forms the well- 
known Strapping or adhesive plaster, so ex- 
tensively used for protecting raw surfaces, 
supporting parts, dressing ulcers, retaining 
the lips of recent cuts and wounds in contact, 
&c. It is gently stimulant, and is thought to 
assist the healina; process; it is also employed 
as a basis for other plasters. Mix by a mod- 
erate heat, 1 ounce resin with 5 ounces 
litharge plaster. {See No. 5043.) Or : 4 ounces 
resin, and 2 ounces powdered castile soap, 
with 2 pounds litharge plaster. 

5047. Cancer Plaster. Wbite oak- 
bark, 4 ounces ; bruise it well, and add urine 
sufficient to cover it. Infuse four days, boil 
it till it becomes as thick as molasses. Add 
2 ounces honey and 2 ounces strained tur- 
pentine gum. To make this plaster caustic, 
add 2 drachms white vitriol. Spread on soft 
leather or linen. It may be applied to all 
kinds of ulcers and white swellings. For can- 
cers it is invaluable. 

5048. Anodyne Plaster. Melt an 
ounce of adhesive plaster, or diachylon {see 
No. 5043), and, whilst cooling, add a drachm 
of powdered opium, and the same quantity of 
camphor, previously dissolved in a small 
quantity of olive oU. Spread on leather. 
This soon relieves an acute local pain. Or: 
Powdered opium, I ounce ; resiu of the spruce 
fir, powdered, 3 ounces ; lead plaster, 1 pound. 
Melt the plaster and resin together, then add 
the opium and mix the whole. TJseful for 
rheumatic pains. 

5049. Strengthening Plaster. Lith- 
arge plaster, 24 parts; white resin, 6 parts; yel- 
low wax and olive oil, of each 3 parts ; red 
oxide of iron, 8 parts. Let the oxide be rub- 
bed with the oil, the other ingredients added, 
melted, and mix the whole well together. 
This is an excellent plaster for relaxation of 
the muscles and weakness of the joints arising 
from sprains and bruises. The plaster spread 
over leather should be cut into strips 2 iuches 
wide, and strapped firmly round the joints, 

5050. Cough. Plaster. Castile soap, 1 
ounce ; lead plaster, 2 drachms ; sal-ammoniac, 
1 drachm. Melt the soap and lead plaster to- 
gether, and add the ammoniac when the mix- 
ture is nearly cold. This plaster must be 
applied to the chest immediately after it is 
spread, and must be renewed every 24 hours. 
It is often of great service in whooping-cough 
and coughs of an asthmatic character. 

5051. Resolvent Plaster. Purified 
ammoniac, 1 pound ; purified mercury, 3 
ounces; sulphuretted oil, 1 fluid drachm. The 
mercury must be rubbed with the sulphuret- 



ted oil till the globules disappear, and th© 
ammoniac, previously melted, added gradually, 
and the whole mixed together. This plaster 
has great efficacy in promoting the absorption 
of glandular swellings and indolent tumors. 
It is of much use also as an applicaticm to 
corns and bunions. It can be obtained from 
the apothecary, and is usually knov\'n as the 
plaster of ammoniac and mercury. 

5052. Burgundy Pitch Plaster. Melt 
together 2 pounds strained burgundy pitch, 
1 pound prepared fi-ankincense, and 4 ounces 
each yellow resin and bees'-wax ; add 2 fluid 
ounces each olive oil and water, and 1 ounce 
expressed oil of nutmeg ; stir constantly until 
evaporated to a proper consistence. 

5053. Bhster or Cantharides Plas- 
ter. Melt together 7 J ounces each yellow 
wax and suet ; 6 ounces lard, and 3 ounces 
resin ; when mixed, remove from the fire, and,, 
a little before they concrete, sprinkle in and 
mix thoroughly 1 pound very finely pow- 
dered cantharid'^es. 

5054. Strong Blistering, or Canthari- 
des Plaster. Mix at a heat below 212^ 
Fahr., 4^ ounces Yenice turpentine, 3 ounces 
each of burgundy pitch and cantharides, 1 
ounce bees'-wax, | ounce finely powdered 
verdigi-is, and 2 drachms each of powdered 
mustard and black pepper. 

5055. "Warm Plaster. For this plas- 
ter, take 1 part of blistering plaster, and of 
burgundy pitch 14 parts ; mix them by means 
of a moderate heat. This plaster is stimu- 
lant, slightly irritating the skin, and is of use 
in ordinary coughs aud whooping-cough, 
sciatica, and other local pains. 

5056. Homoeopathic Mustard Plas- 
ter. For chronic inflammation, colds, sore 
throats, inflammations of the lungs, liver, and 
bowels, sprains, &c. Take 1 part by measure 
of mustard; 5 parts flour; and 5 of Indian 
meal. Mix the mustard in a little hot water, 
and, when smooth, add about 2 parts boiling 
water, and when all is dissolved stir in the 
flour, and then the meal, thoroughly ; adding 
more boiling water if necessary. Spread on a 
thick cloth double folded, to retain heat and 
moisture. Cover with mosquito netting, or 
lace, and nothing closer, sew around" the 
edges, apply to the painful spot ; fasten with 
bandages, and wear till dry, or for 24 hours, 
and then put on a fresh one. Continue to 
renew these for 1 or 2 weeks. "WTien the skin 
becomes too tender, add 1 more spoonful of 
flour and meal each. WTien these plasters 
can no longer be borne, use powdered ginger 
instead of mustard, and then finish with plain 
Indian meal poultice alone. {Leggetf.) 

5057. The Best Mustard Plaster. 
Take a piece of waste linen, and, if crumpled, 
iron it smooth ; or paper will do. Procure a 
small quantity of black mustard seed, and 
bruise it to a coarse powder, in a pestle and 
mortar or otherwise. Spread over the linen a 
thin solution of gum, and sprinkle the powder 
equally over it. Dry in a warm place. When 
wanted, plasters may be cut of any size or 
shape ; and when applied should be momen- 
tarily dipped in tepid water, and tied over the 
aff'ected part with a bandage. These plasters 
are more simple, cleanly, and effective than 
the ordinary mustard poultices. This pre- 
paration may be had at the drug stores. 



GAEGLES. 



4:55 



made in 3 different strengths, l^o. 1 being 
the most powerful. 

5058. Court Plaster. This plaster 
is merely a kind of varnished silk, and its 
manufacture is very easy. Bruise a sufficient 
quantity of isinglass, and let it soak in a little 
warm water for 24 hours ; expose it to heat 
over the fire till the greater part of the water 
is dissipated, and supply its place by proof 
spirits of wine, which will combine with the 
isinglass. Strain the whole through a piece 
of open linen, taking care that the consistence 
of the mixture shall be such that, when cool, 
it may form a trembling jelly. Extend a 
piece of black or flesh-colored silk on a 
wooden frame, and fix it in that position by 
means of tacks or twine. Then apply the 
isinglass (after it has been rendered liquid by 
a gentle heat) to the silk with a brush of fine 
hair (badgers' is the best). As soon as this 
first coating is dried, which will not be long, 
apply a second; and afterwards, if the article 
is to be very superior, a third. "When the 
whole is dry; cover it with two or three coat- 
ings of the balsam of Peru. This is the 
genuine court plaster. It is pliable, and 
never breaks, which is far from being the case 
with spmious articles sold under that name. 

5059. De Rheims' Healing Paper. 
Make a strong tincture of capsicum-pods by 
steeping them for several days, in a warm 
place, in twice their weight of rectified spirits 
of wine. Dissolve gum-arabic in water to 
about the consistency of molasses. Add to 
this an equal quantity of the tincture, stirring 
it together with a small brush or a large 
camel's-hair pencil, untH they are well incor- 
porated. The mixture will be cloudy and 
opaque. Take sheets of silk or tissue-paper ; 
give them with the brush a coat of the mix- 
ture; let them dry, and then give another; 
let that dry, and, if the surface is shining, 
there is enough of the peppered gum ; if 
not, give a third coat. This paper, applied 
in the same way as court plaster to chil- 
blains that are not broken, and bums that 
are not blistered, speedily relieves the itching 
and the pain. It acts like a charm, and 
effects a rapid cure. The same with cuts and 
discolored bruises. It likewise allays rheu- 
matic pains in the joints. Its great value is 
that, besides acting as ordinary sticking-plas- 
ter, it abates suffering and hastens the process 
of healing. 

5060. Cooley's Com Plaster. In a 
piece of card, cut a round hole the size of the 
central portion of the com ; lay the card on a 
piece of adhesive plaster, and warm the spot 
of plaster exposed by the hole in the card, by 
holding a hot iron near it for a second or 
two ; then remove the card and sprinkle some 
finely powdered nitrate of silver on the warm 
spot of the plaster. When cold, shake off the 
loose powder, and apply to the com. Two 
or three appHcations seldom fail to cure. 

5061. Carbolic Plaster. CarboUc gly- 
cerine, 34 parts by weight ; prepared chalk, 
94 parts. Mix well by kneading, and enclose 
in closely-stoppered jars. 

5062. Irritating Plaster. Boil to- 
gether 1 pound tar, 5 ounce burgundy pitch, 
1 ounce white pine turpentine, and 2 ounces 
resin. Finely powder 1 ounce each man- 
drake root, blood root, poke root, and Indian 



turnip. Stir these into the melted tar, &c., 
before it cools. This plaster, spread on mus- 
lin and renewed daily, will raise a sore, which 
is to be wiped with a dry cloth, to remove 
matter, &c. The sore must not be wetted. 
This is a powerful counter-irritant, for re- 
moving intemal pains, and in other cases 
where an irritating plaster is necessary. 



Gargles are simple remedies well 
adapted to domestic practice in sore 
throats of various kinds. According to the 
nature of the ingredients of which they are 
made, they allay irritation and inflammation, 
invigorate the membrane lining the mouth 
and throat, and promote suppuration. The 
particular purpose for which they are required 
ought to be kept in view in their preparation. 

5064. Potassa Gargle for Sore 
Throat. Strong sage tea, 1 pint ; strained 
honey, 2 table-spoonfuls; chlorate of potassa, 
1 tea-spoonful ; mix and use as often as ne- 
cessary, being careful to shake before using. 
Also poultice the throat with hops and warm 
vinegar. Brewers' yeast substituted for the 
chlorate of potassa makes a very effectual 
gargle. 

5065. Gargle for Sore Throat. Yery 
strong sage tea, i pint ; strained honey, com- 
mon salt, and strong vinegar, of each 2 table- 
spoonfuls; cayenne (pulverized), 1 rounding 
tea-spoonful ; steeping the cayenne with the 
sage, strain, mix, and bottle for use, gargling- 
from four to a dozen times daily, according to 
the severity of the case. 

5066. Carbolic Acid Gargle. Used as^ 
a gargle for sore throat, attended with foul 
breath. Take 2 grains of the crystals to 1 ounce 
of water. 

5067. Gargle for Ulcerated Sore 
Throat. Water, ^ pint; decoction of Peru- 
vian bark, 4- pint : sulphate of zinc, 1 drachm. 
Mix. 

5068. Gargle for Inflammation of the 
Throat. Purified nitre, 2 drachms; barley 
water, 7 ounces ; acetate of honey, 7 drachms ;: 
mix the ingredients. To be used frequently. 

5069. Gargle for General Domestic 
Use in Sore Throat. Take 3 tea-spoonfuls 
vinegar, 2 tea-spoonfuls tuicture of myn'h, 2 
of honey, a glass of port wine, and 3 or 4 wine- 
glasses of warm water ; mix all these ingredi- 
ents, and the gargle is ready for use. A de- 
coction of the leaves of the black currant 
may, with good effect, be added instead of 
the warm water. This makes both a pleasant 
and most useful gargle. 

5070. Mucilaginous Gargle for In- 
flamed Throat. Tinctm-e of myrrh, 3 
drachms ; mucilage of gum-arabic, 7 ounces. 
Mix. This gargle is of use in defending the 
parts when the saliva is of an acrid character. 

5071 . Gargle for Threatened Mortifi- 
cation of the Throat. Tincture of capsi- 
cum, C drachms ; honey of roses, 3 drachms ; 
infusion of roses, 3 pint. Mix. Or: Tincture 
of capsicum, 6 drachms ; infusion of Peruvian 
bark, 5 ounces ; port wine, 3 ounces. Mix. 

5072. Gargle to Promote Suppura- 
tion. Barley water and infusion of linseed. 
This gargle is to be used warm. It must b& 



4r56 



CA USTICS—E UBEFACIENTS- BALSAMS. 



kept in view that this mild gargle acts bj 
softening the parts of the throat, and hasten- 
ing the suppnration by its heat; and it is 
requisite, therefore, that the temperature of 
the gargle be kept up. 

5073. Carbolized Gargle for Diphthe- 
ria, TonsiHtis, &c. Carbolic acid, 20 min- 
ims; acetic acid, 5 drachm; honey, 2 fluid 
ounces ; tincture of myrrh, 2 fluid drachms ; 
water, 6 fluid ounces. The carbolic and acetic 
acids to be well shaken together before the 
other ingredients are added. (Charles Sedg- 
mcJc.) 



C rustic S. Subtances that corrode 
or destroy the texture of the skin and 
organized bodies. Their action is commonly 
called burning. The principal caustics em- 
ployed by surgeons are nitrate of silver, 
caustic potassa, sulphate of copper, red oxide 
of mercury, and the nitric and acetic acids. 

5075. Vegetable Caustic. Bum oak 
or beech wood to ashes. Make a lye from 
them, and simmer it till it becomes rather 
thicker than cream ; the evaporation may be 
continued in the sun. Spread on leather when 
used. It is valuable in cancers, flstulas, scrof- 
ulous and indolent ulcers, where there is proud 
flesh. 

5076. Medicated Lint. Dissolve 20 to 
30 grains nitrate of silver in 1 fluid ounce dis- 
tilled water ; satm-ate 5 ounce of dry lint with 
the solution, and expose it in a saucer to the 
light and air until it becomes black and dry. 

5077. Iodine Paint; Iodine Caustic. 
Take of iodide of potassium, ^ ounce avoirdu- 
pois; iodine, i ounce; proof- spirit, 3 ounces; 
dissolve by agitation. Used as a paint in 
cases in which it is desired to apply iodine, in 
a strong form, locally ; also as a caustic for 
corns, warts, &c. (Souheiran.) The tincture 
of iodine of the Pharmacopoeia is, however, 
more generally employed ; but it is only of 
about one-third the strength of the above. 

5078. To Prevent Iodine from Stain- 
ing. By adding a few drops of liquid carbolic 
acid to the iodine tincture, the latter will not 
stain. According to Dr. Bogs,' of the Indian 
Service, carbolic acid also renders the efficacy 
of tincture of iodine more certain. He re- 
commends the following formula, whenever 
injections of the latter are indicated : Alco- 
holic tincture of iodine, 45 drops ; pure liquid 
carbolic acid, 6 drops ; glycerine, 1 ounce ; 
distilled water, 5 ounces. In blennorrhcea 
and leucorrhoea, this mixture is said to be su- 
perior to tar-water. 

5079. Caustic for Corns. Take of 
liquid terchloride of antimony and tincture of 
iodine, of each 2 drachms avoirdupois ; prot- 
iodide of iron, 7 grains ; mix, and preserve it 
in a well-stoppered phial. Applied, with care. 
Two to four applications are said to effect a 
cure. 

5080. Convenient Vehicle for the 
Application of Nitrate of Silver. At 
University College Hospital (London) they 
have adopted the plan of dissolving nitrate 
of silver in nitrous ether; it can then be 
spread with a camel's-hair brush over a sur- 
face, and the ether immediately evaporates. 



Rnbefacients. substances oi 
agents, which, when applied for a cer> 
tain time to the skin, occasion a redness and 
iucrease of heat without blistering. They 
act as counter-irritants. Mustard or pow- 
dered ginger, made into a paste with water, 
hartshorn and oil, and ether or alcohol (when 
their evaporation is prevented), are among 
this class of remedies. 

5082. Counter-irritants. Substances 
applied to the surface of the body to establish 
a secondary morbid action, with the view of 
relieving one already existing. Those best 
known are blisters, mustard poultices, harts- 
horn and oil, and liniment of ammonia. 

5083. Blistering Tissue. These blis- 
tering compositions are superior to the com- 
mon cantharides blisters, from their greater 
cleanliness, efficiency, and ease of application, 
and their being less liable to produce excess- 
ive irritation. 

5084. Strong Blistering Tissue. 
Powdered cantharides is exhausted with sul- 
phuric ether by percolation (see Ko. 41), and 
the resulting tincture reduced to the ccmsist- 
ence of molasses by distillation ; the extract 
is then mixed with twice its weight of yeUow 
wax, melted by a very gentle heat, and spread 
on waxed cloth. 

5085. Bhstering Tissue. Digest 3 
drachms powdered cantharides in 1 ounce 
ether for a day or two; decant and add 4 
drachms sandarach, 2 drachms mastic, -J 
drachm turpentine, and 10 or 12 drops oil of 
lavender ; mix and spread as above. 

5086. Bhstering Tissue. Mix 2 parts 
acetic extract of cantharides, and 1 part 
each of resin cerate and bees'-wax; use as 
before. 

5087. Bhstering Plaster. Infuse 3 
drachms powdered cantharides in 4 ounces 
acetic ether for 8 days ; decant and evaporate 
as in jSTo. 5084; then add 4 drachms resin, 
and spread on court plaster. 

5088. Management of Bhsters. 
Spread the plaster thinly on paper, or linen, 
and rub over it a few drops of olive oil. In 
this way the blister acts speedily, and with 
less irritation than usual. 

5089. To Camphorate Blisters. M. 
Deschamps d'Avallon has suggested, when it 
is desirable to camphorate a blister, it may be 
readily accomplished by dropping on its sur- 
face a few drops of a saturated solution of 
camphor in chloroform, made by adding 
2 parts of the latter to 4 of the former. 



BalSQ/IIlS. Balsams are semi-liquid 
resinous substances, having for the 
most part the consistence of honey. Some, 
however, are solid, and the greater number 
harden by exposm-e to the air and age. They 
are generally aromatic, soluble in alcohol, 
partly soluble in ether, and not at all so in 
water. Their usual constituents are resiu 
and benzoic acid, mixed with a large portion 
of aromatic essential oil. Some of the sub- 
stances falsely called balsams contain no ben- 
zoic acid, as the balsam of copaiba, &c. ; and 
many preparations, from the presumption 
that they possess balsamic qualities, have also 
received this name. 



BALSAMS, 



4.57 



5091. Friar's Balsam, or Jesuit's! 
Drops. Take gum benzoin, 6 ounces ; 
strained storax, 2 ounces ; pulverized aloes 
and myrrh, eacli 5 ounce; balsam Peru, 1 
ounce ; balsam tolu, 2 ounces ; extract of 
liquorice, 2 ounces ; alcohol, 2 quarts. Let it 
stand for 2 weeks, with occasional agitation, 
and filter the whole through paper. A good 
application for wounds and cuts ; and as such 
was very efi'ectual in the hands of the old 
friars. Internally, it is stimulant, expector- 
ant, and anti-spasmodic, and is useful in 
asthma, catarrh, consumption, and lan- 
guid circulation. Dose, 2 a drachm on loaf 
sugar. 

5092. Balsam of Horehound. Dis- 
solve 2 ounces each extract of horehound 
and extract of liquorice, in i pint hot water ; 
when cold, add | pint paregoric, 6 ounces 
oxymel of squills, 2 ounces tincture of ben- 
zoin, and 10 ounces honey. Mix well and 
strain through flannel. Dose for an adult, 2 
to I5 tea- spoonfuls, accompanied by a dose or 
two of aperient medicine. 

5093. Balsam of Honey. Balsam of 
tolu, 1 ounce; gum storax, 1 drachm; puri- 
fied opium, 15 grains; best honey, 4 oances; 
rectified spirits of wine, 1 pint. Digest them 
together for a week, and strain the liquor. 
This prescription is of great use in colds and 
habitual coughs, unaccompanied by feverish 
symptoms. The dose is from 1 to 3 tea- 
spoonfuls occasionally. 

5094. Balsami Riga. Young shoots of 
fir (collected in March), 2 pounds ; rectified 
spirit and water, of each 5 pints. Bruise the 
fir-shoots and macerate in the spuit and water 
for 3 or 4 days, then distill 1 gallon. Or : Mix 
together rectified spirit, 8 ounces ; oil of ju- 
niper and compound tincture of benzoin, of 
each 1 ounce ; agitate well and filter. Stim- 
ulant and diuretic ; also used for sprains and 
bruises. 

5095. Glycerine Balsam. This is de- 
signed to whiten and soften the skin, remove 
roughness, chaps, chilblains, and irritations 
from common causes. Take pure white wax, 
1 ounce ; spermaceti, 2 ounces ; oil of al- 
monds, 9 ounces. Melt together by a moder- 
ate heat in a glazed earthenware vessel, and 
add pure glycerine, 3 ounces ; balsam of Peru, 
i ounce. The mixture is to be stirred until 
nearly cold, and then poured into pots. In- 
stead of balsam of Peru, 12 or 15 drops of 
attar of rose may be employed. 

5096. Universal Wound Balsam. 
Gum benzoin, in powder, 6 ounces ; balsam of 
tola, in powder, 3 ounces ; gum storax, 2 
ounces ; n-ankincense, in powder, 2 ounces ; 
gum myiTh, in powder, 2 ounces ; socotrine 
aloes, in powder, 3 ounces ; alcohol, 1 gallon. 
Mis them all together and put them in a 
digester, and give them a gentle heat for 3 or 
4 days ; then strain. 30 or 40 drops on a 
lump of sugar may be taken at any time, for 
flatulency or pain at the stomach ; and in old 
age, where nature requires stimulation. This 
valuable remedj^ should be kept in every fam- 
ily ready for use; it cannot be surpassed as an 
application for cuts and recent wounds, and is 
equal) V good for man or animals. 

5097. Pectoral Balsam. Tincture of 
tolu and compound tincture of benzoin, of 
each 2 ounces; rectified spirit, 4 ounces; 



mix. As a pectoral in coughs and colds. 
Dose, 1 tea-spoouful. 

5098. Anodyne Balsam. Take of 
white soap, 1 ounce; opium, unprepared, 2 
drachms; rectified spirit of wine, 9 ounces;, 
digest them together by a gentle heat for 3 
days ; then strain off the liquor, and add to it 
3 drachms of camphor. This balsam is ol 
service in violent sprains and rheumatic com- 
plaints, when not attended with inflamma- 
tion. It must be rubbed with a warm hand 
on the part afl'ected, or a linen rag moistened 
with it, and renewed every third hour till 
the pain abates. 

5099. Balsam of Turpentine. Melt 
by a gentle heat black resin, 1 poimd ; remove 
the vessel from the fire and add oil of turpen- 
tine, 1 pint. 

5100. Canada Balsam. This balsam 
is the product of the Canadian balsam fir, a 
tree of very common growth in Canada and 
the State of Maine, When fresh, it has the 
consistence of thin honey, an agreeable odor, 
an acid taste, and a pale yellow color, nearly 
white. It should be perfectly transparent, 
and soluble in rectified oil of tui*pentine, with 
which it forms a beautiful glassy and color- 
less varnish, which is much used for preparing 
a semi-transparent copying-paper. A facti- 
tious kind is sold, but is wholly deficient of 
some of the properties of the genuine balsam. 

5101. Factitious Canada Balsam. 
Dissolve 3 pounds of clear yellow resin in 1 
gallon of oil of turpentine ; then add i pint of 
pale linseed oil, and -^ ounce each of essence 
of lemon and oil of rosemary. 

5102. Factitious Balsam of Tolu. 
Dissolve orange shellac and gum benzoin, of 
each 1 pound, in coarse powder ; in rectified 
spirit, 5 pounds (in a close vessel) ; filter and 
distill ofl' the spirit until the residuum has a 
proper consistence, then add a few drops of 
the oils of cassia and nutmeg, dissolved in a 
little essence of vanilla. Or : Take of balsam 
of tolu, 4 ounces ; white resin, 16 ounces , 
sheep's suet, 1^ ounces, or suflicient to make 
it soft enough, according to climate or season. 

5103. To Detect Factitious Balsam 
of Tolu. The genuine balsam is perfectly 
soluble in alcohol, forming a transparent so- 
lution. By exposure to the air it becomes hard 
and brittle. It is frequently adulterated, in 
which case it has a weaker smell, is less solu- 
ble in alcohol, and the tincture formed with 
that fluid is opaque. 

5104. Factitious Balsam of Copaiba. 
Powdered gum benzoin, 4 ounces; castor oil, 
1 gallon; yellow resin, 3 pounds; balsam of 
Canada, 2 pounds ; oil of juniper, 2 ounces ; 
oil of savine, 1 ounce ; essences of orange and 
lemon, of each 5 ounce. Melt the resin, then 
add a little of the castor oil and the powdered 
benzoin, and withdraw the heat; when well 
mixed add the remainder of the castor oil, 
and, when nearly cold, the essences; mix 
well, and filter through a Canton flannel bag, 
adding a little coarsely powdered charcoal. 

5105. Imitation Balsam of Copaiba. 
Balsam of Canada, 8 pounds ; yellow resin, 3 
pounds ; castor oil, 3 pounds ; oil of juniper, 
i ounce; essential oil of almonds, 15 drops; 
oil of pavine, 20 drops. As above. 

5106. Keduced Balsam of Copaiba. 
Balsam of copaiba, 4 pounds; castor oil, 3 



4r58 



TONICS. 



pounds; mix. Or: Balsam of copaiba; 7 
pounds ; castor oil, 4 pounds ; yellow resin, 2 
pounds. Or: Equal parts of balsam of co- 
paiba and balsam of Canada mixed together. 
Or : To the last add 2 pounds of Tenice tur- 
pentine. Or : Balsams of Canada and copaiba, 
and nut or castor oil, equal parts. Or: Co- 
paiba, 7 pounds; nut oil, 3 pounds; yellow 
resin, 2 pounds ; balsam of Canada, 1 pound. 
The above are the forms for the reduction of 
copaiba balsam, that have from time to time 
been circulated in the drug trade. For the 
mode of distinguishing such compounds from 
the pure balsam, see next receipt. 

5107. To Detect Factitious or Re- 
duced Balsam Copaiba. Ch evallier recom- 
mends the following test: Place a drop of the 
balsam on a piece of unsized paper, and heat 
it until all the essential oil be expelled; it 
should then form a semi-transparent, well- 
defined spot; but if the balsam has been 
adulterated with a fat oil, it will be surrounded 
by an oily areola. According to Blanche, the 
pure balsam, when shaken with liquid ammo- 
nia specific gravity .965, becomes clear and 
transparent in a few moments. Yigne says : 
2h parts pure balsam with 1 part liquor of 
ammonia, form a transparent mixture, which 
may be heated to 212° without becoming 
opaque. Boiled with 50 times its weight of 
water for 1 hour, it should lose at least half its 
weight. 

Dr. Hager recommends the following sim- 
ple mode as very reliable for detecting adulter- 
ation of copaiba balsam with turpentine oil : 5 
or 6 drops of water and about 1 drachm of the 
balsam are mixed in a small porcelain dish 
with as much litharge as will make a thin 
ointment. This mass, at the common sum- 
mer temperature, exhales the characteristic 
odor of oil of turpentine, even if the balsam 
is adulterated with only 10 per cent, of the oil. 

5108. Factitious Balsam of Peru. 
Balsam of tolu, 1 pound; gum benzoin, 3 
pounds; liquid storax, 1 ounce; sufficient 
rectified spirit. The gum benzoin in coarse 
powder is dissolved in a little of the spirit, 
and then mixed up with the balsam of tolu 
and storax, adding as much spirit as is neces- 
sary to reduce it to a proper consistence. 

5109. Reduced Balsam of Peru. 
Balsam of Peru, 3 pounds ; balsam of tolu, 2 
pounds; rectified spirit enough to reduce it to 
a proper consistence. As above. Or: Bal- 
sam of Peru, 3 pounds; gum benzoin dis- 
solved in the least quantity of spirit possible, 
1 pound. As above. 

5110. To Detect Factitious or Re- 
duced Balsam of Peru. Grenuine balsam 
of Peru should possess the following charac- 
teristics: It should have a consistence and 
appearance resembling molasses, and an aro- 
matic odor between that of benzoin and va- 
nilla. It should be entirely soluble in alcohol. 
It should undergo no diminution in volume 
when agitated with water. 1000 parts of the 
balsam should saturate exactly 75 grains of 

Eure crystallized carbonate of soda. Its speci- 
c gravity should not be less than 1.150, nor 
more than 1.160. 

5111. Factitious Balm of Gilead. 
Also called JBaume de la Mecque. Gum 
benzoin, 1 pound ; resin, 4 pounds ; oil lemon, 
rosemary, caraway, of each 4 ounces; alcohol. 



sufficient quantity, till of proper consistence. 
Or : 4 ounces gum benzoin may be dissolved 
by heat in 1 pound Canada balsam, and to 
the mixture, when cold, J: ounce each of the 
oils of rosemary, lemon, and cassia, added. 

5112. Hoffmami's Life Balsam, found 
in Continental Pharmacopoeias under the name 
Mistura oleoso-'balsamica, and other titles, is 
prepared as follows : Take 1 fluid ounce each 
of the oils of lavender, cloves, cinnamon, 
thyme, lemon peel, and mace ; 3 fluid ounces 
each oil of bergamot and balsam Peru ; and 5 
pints alcohol. The oils and balsam are grad- 
ually added to the alcohol, the whole well 
shaken and allowed to rest for a few days in a 
cool place, when it is filtered and ready for 
use. Difi'erent European Pharmacopoeias vary 
from each other somewhat in the proportion 
of the oils. 

5113. Nervine Balsam, or Baume 
Nerval. Expressed oil of mace, and pre- 
pared ox-marrow, of each 4 ounces melted 
together ; oil of rosemary, 2 drachms ; oil of 
cloves, 1 drachm; camphor, 1 drachm; bal- 
sam of tolu, 2 drachms; the last two dissolved 
in rectified spirit, 4 fluid drachms; and the 
whole stirred till cold. 

5114. Balsam of Sulphur. Boil to- 
gether in a vessel, tightly covered, 1 part flow- 
ers of sulphur and 4 parts olive oil, until 
they assume the consistence of a thick bal- 
sam. 

5115. Balm of Rakasiri. Oil of rose- 
mary dissolved in common gin, 

5116. Balsam de Malta. Gum benzoin, 
2 ounces; gum aloes, 1 ounce; alcohol, 2 pints. 
Mix. 



Tonics. Medicines that increase the 
tone of the muscular fibre, and impart 
vigor to the system. The principal mineral 
tonics are iron, zinc, copper, silver, arsenic, 
bismuth, mercury, and the mineral acids. The 
principal vegetable tonics are cinchona or 
Peruvian bark, cinchonine, quinine, the vege- 
table bitters, and some of the aromatics. Of 
the above, iron, bark, and its preparations, and 
the aromatic bitters, are those generally em- 
ployed, and which prove most genial to the 
constitution. 

5118. Stomachic Elixir. Pare ofif the 
thin yellow rinds cf 6 large oranges, and put 
them in a quart bottle with 1 ounce gentian 
root, scraj)ed and sliced, and § drachm cochi- 
neal. Pour over these ingredients a pint of 
brandy ; shake the bottle well several times 
during that and the following day; let it 
stand 2 days more to settle, and clear it off 
into bottles for use. Take 1 or 2 tea-spoonfuls 
morning and afternoon, in a glass of wine or 
in a cup of tea. This elegant preparation is 
a most valuable tonic. 

5119. Stomachic Elixir. Gentian root, 
2 ounces ; bitter oranges, sliced, 1 ounce ; Yii*- 
ginia snake-root, 5 ounce. Bruise, and infuse 
for 4 days in 1 pint of brandy ; then add 1 
pint of water. A wine-glassful to be taken 
occasionally. Good for flatulency, indigestion, 
want of appetite, &c. 

5120. Tonic Infusion. Gentian root, 
sliced. 5 ounce; dried orange peel, bruised, 
coriander seeds, bruised, of each 1 drachm ; 



ANODYNE S—DIAPHOIIETICS. 



459 



boiling water, 12 ounces. Macerate for an 
hour in a lightly covered vessel, and strain 
the liquor. This infusion is often most bene- 
ficially employed in general debility, chronic 
gout, indigestion, and other ailments. The 
dose is from 1 to 2 ounces taken 3 or 4 times 
a day. 

5i21. Infusion of Calumba. Calumba 
root, 1 drachm; boiling water, ^ pint, Mace- 
Irate for 4 hours and strain, adding afterwards 
^ ounce of spirit of cinnamon. The dose is 
I2 or 2 ounces. It is an excellent tonic, and 
is held in high esteem by many eminent phy- 
sicians, who employ it in the latter stage of 
diarrhoea, bilious intermittent fever, and puer- 
peral fever. It is also a good preparation for 
allaying the nausea and vomiting which often 
accompany pregnancy. 

5132. Orange Tonic. Orange peel, 1 
ounce ; chamomile flowers, IJ ounces, and a 
little ginger. Put in 1 pint of boiling water. 
Add i a wine-glassfal of brandy. Take a 
wine-glassful at a time. 

5 1 23 . Spackman's Tonic and Nervine 
Mixture. Take k drachm sulphate of quinine, 
6 grains tannin, 1 ounce ginger syrup, 6 
drachms fluid extract of valerian, and 2 
drachms compound tincture of cardamoms. 
Dose, a tea-spoonful 4 times a day. 

5124 Tonic Aromatic Mixture. Di- 
gest in a close vessel for 3 days, agitating 
frequently, 1 ounce powdered pale cinchona 
bark, 3 drachms powdered calumba root, 2 
drachms bruised cloves, and I ounce iron 
filings in 16 fluid ounces peppermint water ; 
strain, and add 3 fluid ounces compound 
tincture of cardamoms, and 3 fluid drachms 
tincture of orange peel. Dose, 1 or 2 table- 
spoonfuls or more, 3 or 4 times a day, 

5125. Tonic Pills. Extract of gentian, 
2 scruples ; sulphate of iron, 16 grains ; sul- 
phate of quinine, 10 grains. Mix, and form 
into pills. Take 1 pill three times a day, 

5126. Tonic Tincture. Peruvian bark, 
bruised^ I5 ounces; orange peel, bruised, 1 
ounce ; brandy, or proof spirit, 1 pint. Infuse 
10 days ; shake the bottle every day. Pour 
off the liquor, and strain. Take a tea-spoon- 
ful in a wine-glassful of water twice a day, 
when you feel languid. 

5127. Decoction of Red or Peruvian 
Bark. Bruised red bark, 1 ounce; water, 1 
pint. Boil for 10 minutes in a covered vessel, 
and strain the liquor while hot. 

5128. Infusion of Red or Peruvian 
Bark. Eed bark, bruised, 1 ounce; boihng 
water, 1 pint. Macerate for 2 hours in a cov- 
ered vessel, and strain. This is of great use 
in convalescence from acute diseases. It con- 
tains a considerable amount of the febrifuge 
and strengthening qualities of the quinine. 

5129. Dr. Thompson's Bitters. Bal- 
mony bark, 1 part ; poplar bark, 5 parts. Boil 
io water suflicient to strain 2^ gallons of 
water from a pound of the bark, to which 
add sugar, 3^ pounds ; nerve powder, 2^ oun- 
ces; while hot, strain, and add best Malaga 
wine, 3^ gallons ; tinctm*e of meadow-feni, 1 
quart. A less quantity may be made by 
observing the proper proportions. Dose, from 
half to a wine-glassful twice a day. These 
bitters are excellent. They are sure to correct 
the bile, and create an appetite by giving tone 
to the digestive powers. 



Anodynes. Medicines which allay 
J~\. pain. Some act by actually assuaging 
pain ; others by inducing sleep ; a third class 
give ease by stupefying the senses, or lessen- 
ing the susceptibility to pain. Among the 
principal anodynes are opium, morphia, cam- 
phor, ether, chloroform, nitrous oxide or 
laughing gas, cfec. 

5131. Anodyne Powder. Opium, i 
ounce; camphor, 3 drachms; valerian, 1 
ounce; cayenne pepper, 1 ounce. Put the 
opium and camphor into a close bag; place it 
on the oven top to harden. Powder and mix. 
Take ^ tea-spoonful at a time. Most valua- 
ble in colic, cramp, and severe pains. 

5132. Anodyiie Substitute for Opium. 
Take 2\ drachms each tincture of lupuline 
(hops), and tincture of henbane; 5 drachms 
camphor water. A tea- spoonful of the mix- 
ture may be given every 2 hours m cases 
where opium cannot be administered. 

5133. Anodyne Cigars. The leaves of 
the belladonna (deadly nightshade), 4 parts, 
moistened with 1 part tincture of opium, dried 
and made into cigarettes of 1 drachm each ; 
or the leaves alone, without the addition of 
opium, form an effective anodyne in trouble- 
some coughs, tooth-ache, sore throat, &c. 



Diaphoretics. Medicines that 
increase the perspiration. Those that 
produce this effect in a powerful degree are 
generally called sudorifics. The principal 
diaphoretics are warm diluents, as gruel, tea, 
barley-water, (fee, ; salts of the alkalies, as the 
citrates of potassa and soda, acetate and car- 
bonate of ammonia, sal-ammoniac, nitre, cfec. ; 
preparations of antimony, as tartar emetic, 
antimonial powder, (fee, ; also Dover's powder, 
opium, camphor, ipecacuanha, alcohol, wine, 
(fee. The use of diaphoretics is indicated in 
most diseases accompanied by fever and a 
dry skin, 

5135. Balm Tea. Balm leaves, 1 ounce ; 
fine sugar, 1 spoonful ; lemon juice, 1 ounce ; 
infused in a pint of boiling water for 20 min- 
utes. This forms a useful drink in colds or 
fevers. Or it may be made just like common 
tea, without the lemon. Let the patient 
drink it frequently, especially the last thing 
at night, and keep himself warm during the 
perspiration. 

5136. Herb Drink for Fevers. Infuse 

1 ounce each of balm, elder-flowers, marsh- 
mallow, spearmint, and arnica-flowers, with \ 
ounce anise-seed, in boiling water. 

5137. Fever Mixture. Mix 2 scruples 
nitrate of potash with 3 drachms sweet spirits 
of nitre, 3 ounces solution of acetate of am- 
monia, 45 ounces camphor water, and 2 
drachms lemon syrup. Dose for an adult, 

2 table-spoonfuls every 4 hours. Children in 
proportion. This mixture is excellent where 
the fever affects the head. 

5138. Infusion to Produce Sweating. 
Infuse 1 ounce pleurisy root for 30 minutes m 
H pints water. A tea-spoonful taken warm 
as often as the stomach will bear it, 

5139. Boneset Tea. Infuse 1 ounct 
boneset in 1 pint boiling water for 30 minutes. 



4.60 



DIURETIC 8— ELECTUARIES. 



A -vdne-glassM as hot as possible every half 
hour will produce a profuse perspiration. 

5140. Blessed Thistle Tea. The 

leaves of the blessed thistle prepared and 
administered in the same way as boneset {see 
last receipt), but not sufficient to produce 
nausea, will have a similar effect. 

5141. Febrifuge Wine. The follow- 
ing mixture is highly recommended for fever 
and ague : quinine, 25 grains ; water, 1 pint ; 
Epsom salts, 2 ounces ; brandy, 1 gill ; sul- 
phuric acid, 12 drops ; loaf sugar, 2 ounces. 
Color with tincture of red saun'ders. Take a 
wine-glassful three times a day. 

5142. Sweating" Drops. Take of cam- 
phor, saffron, ipecacuanha, opium, and Yir- 
ginia snake-root, i ounce each; Holland 
gin, 1 1 pints ; infuse 2 or 3 days. A wonder- 
Silly efficacious cure for fever and ague, after 
suitable evacuants. Dr. Beach says he finds 
this the best medicine for fever and ague of 
any with which he is acquainted. In two 
cases this tincture removed the paroxysms 
where other remedies failed. 

5143. Spirit of Mindererus, or So- 
lution of Acetate of Ammonia. Take of 
diluted acetic acid, 2 pints; carbonate of 
ammonia, in powder, a sufficient quantity. 
Add the carbonate of ammonia gradually to 
the acid, until it is saturated. This is a valu- 
able diaphoretic, and is much employed in 
fevers and inflammatory diseases. 

5144. Houseleek for Fevers. It is 
used as a cooling application to sores, ulcers, 
<fec. The juice mixed with cream is good for 
inflammation of the eyes, and erysipelas. 
Taken inwardly it is good for fevers, cooling 
them down wonderfully. First give a pur- 
gative to cleanse the stomach and bowels; 
then bruise the houseleek ; adding to the juice 
its weight in fine sugar to form a syrup. A 
table-spoonful every 2 hours. Drink balm or 
catnip tea. This receipt is worth gold. 

5145. Sudorific, or Fever Powder. 
Crawley root, 1 ounce ; lobelia herb, ^ ounce ; 
pleurisy root, 1 ounce ; skunk cabbage, 4 
ounce. Powder, and mix them together. 
Dose, from i to 5 tea-spoonful every one 
hour and a half till perspiration is produced. 
It may be given in balm or common tea. In 
fevers, inflammations, influenza, and colds> 
this powder is invaluable. It subdues irrita- 
tion, corrects the pulse, improves respiration, 
and promotes sound natural sleep. It is sure, 
if propel ly administered, to arrest a fever. 
Keep it in a bottle, well corked. 



DinretiCS. Medicines which pro- 
mote the secretion of urine. The prin- 
cipal diuretics are aqueous fluids, which act 
by increasing the watery portion of the blood, 
and certain substances which promote the 
secretion of urine, by stimulating the kid- 
neys. Among the former may be classed 
nearly all aqueous liquids, as most of them 
produce diuresis, if the skin be kept cool. 
Among the latter may be mentioned the ni- 
trate, acetate, and bitartrate of potassa ; oils 
of juniper, turpentine, cajeput, and copaiba; 
dilute spirit and sweet spirits of nitre ; decoc- 
tion of common broom, &c. 



5147. Diuretic Drops. Tincture of 
kino, 5 ounce ; balsam of copaiba, spirits of 
turpentine, of each 1 ounce ; sweet spirits of 
nitre, 2 ounces ; queen of the meadow, 1 
ounce. Mix, and add 1 scruple of camphor. 
Take nearly a tea-spoonful in mucilage. 
Most valuable for scalding urine, inflamma- 
tion of the kidneys, &q. 

5148. Diuretic Infusion. Parsley 
seeds, ^ ounce ; cleavers, f ounce ; burdock 
seeds, f ounce ; coolwort, f ounce ; spearmint, 
\ ounce ; juniper berries, f ounce ; linseed, 5 
ounce; gum arable, ^ ounce. Pour upon 
these 2 quarts boiling water ; infuse 2 or 3 
hours, covering the vessel. Strain, and add 
2 pint of best gin, 4 ounces of honey, and 3 
table-spoonfuls of slippery elm. This is a 
most valuable diuretic; it is cooling, allays 
all urinary affections, gravel, scalding of 
urine, and causes an easy and sufficient flow 
of the same. 

5149. Diuretic Pills. Calcined mag- 
nesia, 1 drachm; solidified copaiba, 2 ounces; 
extract of cubebs, 1 ounce ; oil of turpentine, 
4 drops ; oil of juniper, 6 drops ; form into 
3-grain pills. Take 1 or 2 a few times a day. 
A sovereign remedy for diseases of the kid- 
neys, bladder, urethra, gravel, whites, and ve- 
nereal complaints. 

5150. Bucliu Leaves. They are diu- 
retic and tonic, and a most valuable remedy 
in rheumatism, irritable bladder, gravel, stric- 
ture, <fec. They are given in infusion and 
tincture. Infuse i ounce of leaves in i pint 
of boiling water, for 3 or 4 hours. A wine- 
glassful for a dose 2 or 3 times a day ; or 
from 1 drachm to ^ ounce of the tincture. 

5151. Compound Spirit of Juniper. 
Stimulant and diuretic, administered in doses 
of 2 to 4 drachms. This spirit, when mixed 
with 2 or 3 times its weight of proof spirit, 
makes a fair imitation of Holland gin. Take 
15 ounces bruised juniper hemes, 2 ounces 
each of bruised caraway and fennel, 1 gallon 
proof spirit, and about 1 quart water. Distill 
1 gallon. The wholesale preparation is a 
solution of 2 drachms oil of juniper, 5 drachm 
each of the oils of caraway and sweet fennel, 
in 5 quarts proof spirit. If not clear, filter 
through magnesia. 



Electuaries. These are chiefly 
mixtures of vegetable substances com- 
bined with syrup or honey, so as to be of a 
moderate consistence, neither liquid nor solid. 
The object of such preparations is to secure a 
vehicle by which medicines may be adminis- 
tered, so that their taste may be covered 
by the mixture with which they are com- 
bined. 

5153. Aperient Electuary. Cream of 
tartar, 1 ounce; milk of sulphur, 1 ounce; 
sub-borate of soda, 2^ drachms; syrup of 
ginger, of sufficient quantity to give the re- 
quired consistence. The dose is 1 or 2 tea- 
spoonfuls at bedtime. This will be found a 
mild and excellent laxative, and often is of 
great use in uterine obstructions. 

5154. Lenitive Electuary. The modo 
of preparing this electuary is the following : 
Take of the best senna leaves reduced to a 



FOMENTATIONS — ALTEBATIVES — EMETICS, 



4:61 



fine powder, 4 ounces; pulp of prunes, 1 
pound ; pulp of cassia, ^ pound ; pulp of tam- 
arinds, 3 ounces ; molasses, 1^ pints ; essential 
oil of caravray, 2 drachms. Boil the pulps 
with the molasses to the consistence of honey, 
add the senna, and when the mixtm'e is 
nearly cold, add the oil of cara-^ay, and, 
lasth^ mix the compound thoroughly. This 
preparation is a mild aperient, suited to consti- 
pation from whatever cause. It is admir- 
ably suited to children and delicate persons. 
United with an equal quantity of flowers of 
sulphur, it is an admirable remedy for piles. 
Dose, from 1 to 3 tea-spoonfuls at bed-time. 



Fomentations, in domestic 
practice hot fomentations are, although 
a simple, yet a very useful remedy for allay- 
ing pain, relieving irritation, relaxing and 
removing spasms, and inducing not only 
local, but even general perspiration. Cloths 
dipped in very hot water, wrung out and in- 
stantly applied on the seat of the pain, will be 
frequently of very great service. But in 
some cases it adds"^to the efficacy of the appli- 
cation to employ substances possessing medi- 
cal properties in addition to the mere applica- 
tion of heat. In every process of fomentation 
there should be two flannels, each fsay) three 
yards long, with the ends sewed together, to 
admit of the boiling water being wrung out 
of them, and the one flannel should be got 
ready whilst the other is applied. 

5i56. Anodyne Fomentation. White 
poppy heads, 3 ounces ; elder flowers, i 
ounce ; water, 3 pints. Boil until the liquor 
is reduced to | of its original quantity, and 
strain it; 2 or 3 tea-spoonfuls tincture of 
opium or laudanum, and 30 drops tincture of 
cayenne, may in some cases be added to it. 
This fomentation relaxes spasm, and relieves 
acute pain. 

5157. Fomentation for Ordinary Oc- 
casions. Dried mallows, 1 ounce; chamo- 
mile flowers, dried, k ounce; water, 1 pint. 
Boil for i hour, and strain the liquor. 

6158. Strengthening Fomentation. 
Decoction of oak bark, 2 pints; alum, 3 
drachms. Mix. This is a powerful astrin- 
gent, and often of great use when applied 
to weak parts. 

5159. Arnica Fomentation. Flowers 
of arnica, 2 ounces; rue leaves, 1 ounce; 
boiling water sufficient to strain 6 fluid oun- 
ces of infusion after an hour's maceration at 
nearly boiling temperature. Used in contu- 
sions, especially as an application to black 
eyes. 

5160. Stimulating Fomentation. 
Cayenne pepper, 3 ounces ; mustard seed 
just bruised, 2 ounces ; whiskey, 2 quarts. 
Simmer all together a few minutes. Excel- 
lent external application in cholera, paralysis, 
palsy, rheumatism, &c. A less quantity 
may he made. 

Alteratives. Medicines whichefi^ect 
/•^ some alteration in the nature or the 
quality of the vital action, and occasion a 
"jhange in the habit or constitution, establish- 
ing tiie healthy functions of the body with- 



out producing any sensible evacuation by 
perspiration, vomiting, or purging. The pre- 
parations of mercury and iodine, when pro- 
perly administered, are among the most 
useful and generally employed alteratives. 

5162. Alterative Pills. Lobelia seeds, 
2 drachms ; mandrake, 2 drachms ; blue flag, 
2 drachms; blood root, 2 drachms; cayenne 
pepper, 1 drachm ; gum guiacum, 2 drachms ; 
extract of dandelion, 6 drachms ; oil of pep- 
permint, 3 or 4 drops ; simple syrup to form 
into pills. Dose, 2 pills twice or thrice a day. 
These pills are of great service in bilious and 
liver complaints, diseased joints, boils, car- 
buncles, cutaneous eruptions, scrofula, syph- 
ilis, (fee. 

5163. Alterative Syrup. Tincture of 
cayenne, ^ ounce ; tincture of lobelia and 
tincture of myrrh, of each 2 ounces; molasses, 
i pound. Mix. A tea-spoonful 2 or 3 times 
a day. N"oted for its efiectual cure of cuta- 
neous sores, boils, indigestion, and some 
chronic complaints. 

5164. Dandelion Alterative. A use- 
ful alterative medicine, especially in cases 
where the function of the liver is at fault. 
Dose, fluid extract of dandelion, a dessert- 
spoonful, twice daily, with or without a little 
water. 

5165. Blood Maker and Purifier. 
Mix 5 ounce sulphate of manganese with 1 
pint water. Dose, a wine-glassful 3 times a 
day. This can be used in the place of iron 
tonic, or in connection with it. 

5166. Pancoast's Alterative and 
Tonic Pills. 1 scruple extract of Ignatia 
amara (the bean of St. Ignatius), I5 drachms 
bromide of potassa, 5 drachm saccharine car- 
bonate of iron, 1 scruple piperine, and 1 scru- 
ple extract of henbane. Make into 60 pills, 
and take 2, fifteen minutes after each meal. 



Emetics. Medicines which induce 
vomiting. The principal emetics are 
ipecacuanha and tartarized antimony, and 
their preparations ; and the sulphates of zinc 
and copper. Ipecacuanha is usually adminis- 
tered in substance or infused in wine. The 
use of tartar emetic and antimonial wine is 
generally followed by nausea, relaxation of 
muscular power and of the circulation. Sul- 
phate of zinc acts promptly and energetically, 
and its eff'ects cease as soon as ejected from 
the stomach ; hence it is employed to eject 
poison. Sulphate of copper is more violent 
and disagreeable, and its intense metallic 
taste is a great objection to its use. The 
operation of emetics is powerfully promoted 
by drinking copiously of diluents, especially 
of warm or tepid water. This latter is itself 
an emetic when taken in quantity. Its use 
prevents, in a great degree, excessive straining 
accompanying vomiting. 

5168. Emetic Mixture. Ipecacuanha 
wine, k ounce ; water, 1 ounce ; simple syrup, 
2 ounce. Mix. For a child, 20 drops or 
more, every quarter of an hour until vomit- 
ing ensues. An adult may take from i to 1 
ounce. 

5169. Eclectic Emetic Powder. Ipe- 
cacuanha and lobelia, of each 2 ounces ; blood 



4r62 



PATEXT AND FBOPBIETABY MEDICINES, 



root, 1 ounce. Powder, and mix well. Take 
half a tea-spoonful every 20 minutes till it 
operates. 

5170. Simple Emetic. Half a glass of 
warm water, 1 heaping tea-spoonful of salt, 
and another of mustard. These materials 
are usually to be had at a moment's notice, 
and form a very efficient emetic. 



Patent and Proprietary- 
Medicines. The following re- 
ceipts embrace a variety of domestic, popu- 
lar, and proprietary remedies, and include 
many compounds which, without being pro- 
prietary, are better known by the names of 
the practitioners who have brought them into 
prominent notice than by any other title. A 
variety of articles not included in this place 
are noticed along with other preparations of 
the class to which they belong, or imder the 
names of their proprietors. 

5172. Dalby's Carminative. Take 
oils of caraway, fennel, and peppermint, each 
10 drops ; rub them up with 10 ounces white 
sugar aud 5 ounces carbonate or lump mag- 
nesia, then add 1^ drachms sal-tartar and 2 
ounces laudanum. Mis with 3-^ pints of wa- 
ter. 

5173. Kitchener's Peristaltic Persua- 
ders. Turkey rhubarb, in powder, 2 
drachms ; oil of caraway, 10 drops ; simple 
syrup, 1 drachm by weight; mix, and divide 
into 40 pills. Dose, 2, 3, or more. From 2 
to 4 will generally produce one additional 
motion within 12 hours. The best time to 
take them is early in the morning. 

5174. Barclay's Antibilious Pills. 
Extract of colocynth, 2 drachms ; extract of 
jalap, 1 drachm; almond soap, li drachms; 
guiacum, 3 drachms; tartarized antimony, 8 
grains ; oil of juniper, 4 drops ; oil of cara- 
way, 4 drops ; oil of rosemarv, 4 drops. 

5175. Lee's Antibilious Pills. Take 
pulverized jalap, aloes, and rhubarb, each ^ 
ounce ; calomel, 3 drachms ; pulverized gam- 
boge, 1 drachm ; form the whole into a mass 
with shavings of castile soap and syrup ; then 
make into pills. 

5176. Dover's Powder. Ipecacuanha, 
in powder, 1 drachm ; powdered opium, 1 
drachm; powdered saltpetre, 1 ounce. .All 
well mixed. Dose, from 8 to 20 grains. 

The IJ. S. Pharmacopoeia directs 1 ounce 
sulphate of potassa instead of the saltpetre 
(nitrate of potassa) ; in other respects the 
formula is the same as the above. 

5177. Thompson's "Number Six." 
Gum myrrh, bruibcd, 1 pound; powdered 
cayenne pepper, 1 ounce ; macerate for 8 days 
in 1 gallon strong alcohol (95 per cent.) This 
is an excellent stimulant and tonic. 

5178. Thompson's Composition Pow- 
der. Take bayberry, 8 ounces ; ginger, 8 
ounces; poplar bark, 4 ounces; cay eime pep- 
per, Si ounces ; cloves, t ounce. Powder 
aU these ingredients, and mix intimately. 
Dissolve a tea-spoonful in a cup of boiling 
water, sweetened. Yaluable to remove colds, 
influenza, fever, relax, pain in the bowels, 
cold extremities. As a sudorific, or for re- 



moving morbific matter, the cause of disease, 
it is invaluable. TThen taken, the patient 
should go to bed, and make use of any of 
the various appliances for promoting perspi- 
ration. 

5179. Thompson's Hot Drops. Gum 
myrrh, 2 ounces ; cayenne pepper, l| drachms ; 
spirit of wine, 1 pint. Put in a bottle, and 
shake several times a day for a week. Take 
a tea- spoonful or more in a little warm tea. 
It is a fine remedy for rheumatism. It will 
relieve the headache by taking a dose, bathing 
the head with it, and snuffing it up the nose. 
It is good for bruises, sprains, swoUen joints 
and old sores, &c., &c. 

5180. Anderson's Scott's Pills. Bar- 
badoes aloes, 24 ounces ; colocynth, 1 ounce ; 
gamboge, 1 ounce ; Spanish soap, 4 ounces ; 
oil of anise, k ounce ; water, a sufficient 
quantity. To be made into 3-grain pills. 

5181. Marshall HaU's Dinner Pills. 
Take of powdered Barbadoes aloes, soap, and 
powdered extract of liquorice, of each equal 
parts. Make a mass with molasses, and form 
into pills of 4 grains each. 

5182. White's Gout Pills. Take of 
calomel, powdered socotrine aloes, powdered 
ipecacuanha, and acetic extract of colchi- 
cum, of each 1 drachm. Make a mass with 
syrup, and form into 60 pills. 

5183. Abernethy's Pills. Take of 
powdered socotrine aloes, 48 grains ; pow- 
dered ipecacuanha, 20 grains ; extract of 
henbane, 48 grains ; blue piU mass, 24 
gi-ains. Make a mass with water, and form 
into 24 pills. 

5184. Triplex Pills. Take of pow- 
dered socotrine aloes, 24 grains ; blue-mass, 
12 grains ; podophyllin, 3 grains. Mix thor- 
oughly, with sufficient syrup to form a proper 
consistency. The mixture is to be made up 
into 12 pills. 

5185. Peter's Pills. Aloes, jalap, gam- 
boge, and scammony, of each 2 drachms ; 
calomel, 1 drachm. 

5186. Walter's Indian Vegetable 
Pills. Socotrine aloes, 1 pound; powdered 
gamboge, 6 ounces; compound extract of 
colocynth, castile soap, and Aleppo scam- 
mony, of each 3 ounces ; extract of butter- 
nut, 2 ounces ; African cayenne, i ounce ; 
oil of cloves, 1 drachm. Mix and make into 
4-grain pills. 

5187. Becquerel's Gout PiUs. Mix 
together 106 grains sulphate of quinine, 15-}- 
grains extract of digitalis (fox-glove), and 
38^ grains of colchicum seeds. Make into 
CO pills. Dose, from 1 to 3 daily for several 
davs in succession. 

5188. Health Pills. PiUsalutis. Take 
2 drachms socotrine aloes, 1 drachm extract 
of henbane. 16 grains extract of nux-vomica, 
and 10 grains powdered ipecacuanha. Mix, 
and make into CO pills. 

5189. Leake's Pill of Health. Fill 
salutaria. Take 2 drachms calomel, 2\ 
drachms precipitated sulphnret of antimony,^ 
5 ounce powdered gum guiacum, and -^ ounce" 
molasses. Mix, and make into 240 pills. 

5190. Thomas' Colocynth and Man- 
drake Pills. Take h drachm compound ex- 
tract of coloc}mth, and 3 grains resin of podo- 
phyllin. Mix, and make into 12 piUs. Dose, 
2 at bed-time. 



PATENT AND T 110 PRIE TART MEDICINES. 



4:63 



5191. Parrish.'s Aloes and Mandrake 
Pills. Take 24 grains aloin, 12 grains resin 
of podoph^'^llin, and 4 minims oleo-resin of 
ginger. Mix, and make into 24 pills. Dose, 
as a laxative, 1 pill ; as a purgative, 2 or 3 
pills. 

5192. Chirajrta Pills and Mixture. 
Dr. Reece's pills. Extract of chirayta (clii- 
retta), 2 drachms ; dried soda, 20 grains ; gin- 
ger, 15 grains ; mix, and divide into 36 pills. 
Two twice a day. Mixture : Infusion of 
chirayta, 8 ounces ; subcarbonate of soda, 1 
drachm ; 2 table-spoonfuls 3 times a day. 

5193. Bateman's Pectoral Drops. 
Compound spirit of aniseed, 16 fluid ounces ; 
opium, 1 drachm ; camphor, 1 drachm ; oil of 
fennel, 20 drops ; cochineal, 2 drachms. 

Or : Proof spirit, 4 gallons ; red saunders, 2 
ounces ; digest 24 hours, filter, and add pow- 
dered opium, 2 ounces ; camphor, 2 ounces ; 
catechu, 2 ounces; oil of aniseed, 4 fluid 
drachms; digest for 10 days. (PJiiladelphia 
College of Pharmacy.) The old wine gallon is 
here intended. 

5194. Glutton's Febrifuge Spirit. 
The original formula is : oil of sulphur by the 
bell, oil of vitriol and sea salt, of each 1 
ounce ; rectified spirit, 3 ounces ; mix, digest 
for a month, and distill to dryness. 

5195. Glutton's Febrifuge Tincture. 
Febrifuge spirit, 8 fluid ounces; angelica 
root, serpentary, cardamom seed, of each \k 
drachms; digest and strain. AV^ater acidula- 
ted with these, and sweetened to the taste, 
forms a cooling diuretic and diaphoretic julep. 
Though never admitted into the Pharma- 
copceia, these preparations are favorites with 
some practitioners. 

5196. Lartigue's Gout PiUs. Com- 
pound extract of colocynth, 20 grains; ex- 
tract of colchicum, 60 grains ; extract of 
opium, 1 gi'ain ; mix, and divide into 18 pills. 
Dose, one or more, according to their purga- 
tive effect. 

5197. Baillie's Pills. Compound ex- 
tract of colocynth, Ig drachms; extract of 
aloes, I5 drachms; castile soap, 5 drachm; 
oil of cloves, 15 drops. Make into 38 pills. 
3 at bed-time occa>;ional]y. 

519S. Marseilles Vinegar. Also call- 
ed vitiaigre de qnatre voleurs, or thieves' vine- 
gar. Dried tops of large and small wormwood, 
rosemary, sage, mint, rue, lavender-flowers, 
of each 2 ounces ; calamus root, cinnamon, 
cloves, nutmeg, garlic, of each i ounce; 
camphor, h ounce; concentrated acetic acid, 
2 ounces ; strong vinegar, 8 pounds. Mace- 
rate the herbs, &e., in the vinegar for 2 
weeks, strain, press, and add the camphor 
dissolved in the acetic acid. It is said that 
this medicated vinegar was invented by 
four thieves of Marseilles, who successfully 
employed it as a disinfectant during a visita- 
tion of pestilence. 

5199. Collier's Wine of Q,uinine. Take 
disulphate of quinine, 18 grains ; citric acid, 
15 grains ; sound orange wine, 1 bottle, or 24 
fluid ()unce>. 

5200. Ghlorodjme. The composition 
of this well known secret remedy has excited 
much attention among chemists; many for- 
mulae have been published, but it is difficult 
to determine which of them approaches near- 
est to the chlorodyne of J. Collis Browne, its 



originator. There can be no doubt about the 
three important ingredients, chloroform, mor- 
phia, and hydrocyanic acid, nor can there be 
about oil of peppermint and molasses. The 
question is whether anything else exists ia 
the compound. Hitherto, of the formulae 
which have been published, two — one by Dr. 
Ogden, the other by Mr. Squire — have at- 
tracted most attention. The difference be- 
tween these lay essentially in the presence of 
Indian hemp and capsicum as indicated by 
Ogden, their absence in the formula given by 
Squire. But besides this, the proportion of 
morphia, as given by the two authorities, 
differed greatly. Mr. Edward Smith has re- 
cently investigated the question, and pub- 
lished the result in the London Pharmaceuti- 
cal Journal. He puts the composition of 
chlorodyne as follows : Mix together 4 fluid 
drachms chloroform, 20 grains muriate of 
morphia, 2 fluid drachms rectified ether, 8 
minims oil of peppermint, 4 fluid drachms di- 
luted hydrocyanic acid, 6 fluid drachms 
tincture of capsicum, 1 fluid ounce acacia 
mixture, and add 4 fluid ounces molasses. 
This does not give as dark a compound as the 
original, because the latter contains caramel; 
but as this has no medicinal or other value, 
he omits it, making up to the required 
volume with the molasses. Mr. Smith thinks 
there is no Indian hemp, because the alcoholic 
extract is soluble in water ; but then there is 
capsicum, as, after the chlorofonn and ether 
(which also give pungency to the mixture) 
have been distilled off, the substance left 
behind has a hot, peppery taste. He seems to 
have taken much pains with the analysis. 

5201. Ogden's Ghlorodyne. The fol- 
lowing receipt will furnish a preparation hav- 
ing the pharmaceutical properties of chloro- 
dyne, according to Dr. Ogden : To 8 grains 
muriate of morphia and -J fluid drachm water, 
add 20 drops perchloric acid of 25° Baume, 
and heat until a clear solution is obtained ; 
then add k fluid ounce molasses, previously 
warmed to render it fluid; heat the mixture 
and agitate well. When cold, add I5 fluid 
drachms chloroform, 12 drops hydrocyanic 
acid, 1 fluid drachm tincture of Indian hemp, 
2 drops oil of peppermint, and 1 drop oleo- 
resin of capsicum. Mix thoroughly. 

5202. Groves' GlilorodyTie. The fol- 
lowing is an improvement by Mr. Groves, on 
the receipt of Dr. Ogden. Take chloroform, 4 
drachms; ether, 1| drachms; oil of pepper- 
mint, 8 drops; resin of Indian hemp, 16 grains; 
capsicum, 2 grains ; macerate for 2 or 3 days, 
and filter. Then dissolve hydrochlorate 01 
morphia, 16 grains, in 1 ounce of syrup ; add 
perchloric acid and water, 5 drachm each, 
assisting the solution by a "water-bath ; then, 
when cold, add hydrocyanic acid (Scheele's), 
96 drops. Mix the solutions. 

5203. Squire's Chlorodyne. Dissolve 
8 grains muriate of morphia, and 16 minims 
oil of peppermint, in 4 ounces rectified spirit ; 
add 4 ounces chloroform and 1 ounce ether; 
next dissolve 2k ounces extract of liquorice in 
175 ounces syrup, and add 4 ounces molasses. 
Mix, and add 2 ounces prussic acid (2 per 
cent.). (Comp. to Br. Pharm., llth Ed.) 

5204. Ghandler's Ghlorodyne. Take 
8 grains muriate of morphia, ^ drachm fluid 
extract of cannabis indica, 10 drops oil of 



4r64: 



PATENT ANlj PEOPEIETAEY MEDICINES. 



peppermint, 15 drops tincture of capsicum.; 2 
drachms chloroform, and 1 ounce each of 98 
per cent, alcohol and pure glycerine. Dose, 
10 to 30 drops in a wine-glass of water every 
3 hom-s. This preparation is of a clear green- 
ish color. 

5205. Horsley's CMorodyne. The 
following formula is the result of an analysis 
made by Mr. Horsley. Burnt sugar, 1 
drachm; muriate of morphia, 5 grain; dis- 
tilled water, 2 drachms ; oil of peppermint, 6 
minims; dilute prussio acid, 5 minims ; tinc- 
ture of capsicum, 7 minims ; and chloroform, 1 
drachm. Mix. It must be observed that the 
water is perhaps an error, as it will not mix 
with the chloroform, which will be found on 
the bottom of the bottle. 

5206. CMorodyne. Mix together 5 
fluid ounce chloroform, 90 minims sulphuric 
ether, 8 drops oil of peppermint, 8 drops 
resin of Indian hemp (cannabis Indica), and 
2 drops capsicum; shake the mixture occa- 
sionally and allow it to stand for a few days. 
Dissolve 16 grains muriate of morphia, by 
heat, in 2 drachms water ; when cold, add 65 
minims Scheele's hydrocyanic acid, 1 fluid 
drachm perchloric acid, and 2 fluid ounces 
molasses. Add this gradually to the first 
mixture, and then add sufficient molasses 
to make the whole measure 4 fluid ounces. 
Dose, 30 minims. 

5207. CMorodyne. Mix together 6 
fluid drachms chloroform, 1 fluid drachm chlo- 
ric ether, i fluid drachm tincture of cayenne 
pepper, 2 drops oil of peppermint, 8 grains 
muriate of morphia, 24 drops dilute hydro- 
cyanic acid, 20 drops perchloric acid, 1 fluid 
drachm tincture of Indian hemp, and 1 fluid 
drachm molasses. Dose, 20 drops, as a sopo- 
rific ; 30 drops to 1 fluid drachm, as an ano- 
dyne in cholera or violent paroxysms of 
pain. ( Cooley. ) 

5208. Eau M^dicinale d'Husson. It 
is prepared, according to Dr. Williams, from 
the juice of eolchicum flower with half the 
quantity of brandy; mix, and, after standing 
a few days, decant into small bottles. But it 
was more probably made from the root, as 
prescribed in the followiog formulae : 

Dry eolchicum, 60 parts; in sherry, 125 
parts. 20 drops for a dose. {Paris Codex.) 

4 ounces of the fresh root, sliced, macerated 
in ^ pint of proof spirit. ( Want.) 

5209. Bates' Anodyne Balsam. Soap 
liniment, 2 parts ; tincture of opium, 1 part. 

5210. Delamott's Golden Drops. Mu- 
riate of iron, 1 ounce ; spirit of sulphuric 
ether, 7 ounces ; dissolve and expose to sun- 
shine in a closely-stopped bottle till it becomes 
divested of color. 

5211. Gregory's Powder. Calcined 
magnesia, 2i ounces ; powdered Turkey rhu- 
barb, 1 ounce; powdered ginger, \ ounce. 
Mix. The above is Dr. Gregory's formula. 
Some receipts add powdered chamomile. 
Rhubarb, 1 ounce; ginger, J ounce; powdered 
chamomile, 5 ounce; magnesia, 2 ounces. 
Mix. Some druggists prepare it with the 
heavy carbonate of magnesia, instead of the 
calcined. {See No. 5414.) 

5212. Black Draught. Infusion of 
senna, 10 drachms ; sulphate of magnesia, 3 
drachms; syrup of ginger, 1 drachm; aro- 
matic spirit of ammonia, 20 drops. 



5213. Standert's Red Mixture. Ca^ 

bonate of magnesia, 4 drachms; powdered 
rhubarb, 2 drachms; tincture of rhubarb, 1^ 
ounces ; tincture of opium, 1 drachm ; oil of 
aniseed, 24 drops ; essence of peppermint, 30 
drops; water, li pints; mix. A popular 
remedy for bowel complaints in the west of 
England. 

5214. Graves' Gout Preventive. 
Orange peel, 2 ounces; rhubarb, 1 ounce; hiera 
picra, 2 ounces ; brandy, 1 quart. Digest for 
a week. 

5215. Elixir of Bromide of Sodium. 
Prepare this like elixir of bromide of potais- 
sium, substituting bromide of sodium for 
bromide of potassium, and omitting the color. 

5216. Bacher's Tonic Pills. Alkaline 
extract of black hellebore, 2 drachms ; extract 
of myrrh, 2 drachms ; powder of holy this- 
tle, 1 drachm; mix, and divide into 4-grain 
pills. 

5217. Daffy's Elixir. This is similar 
to the compound tincture of senna ; but dif- 
ferent makers have their peculiar formulae. 
The following is one of them. Avoirdupois 
weight seems to be intended. Senna leaves, 
3f pounds; jalap, aniseed, caraway seed, of 
each 20 ounces; rectified spirit, 18 pints; 
sugar, 5 pounds. Infuse the senna 2 or 3 
times in sufficient boiling water to yield, when 
strained with pressure, 4 gallons in the whole. 
Add to this the tincture made with jalap and 
seeds digested with the spirit for a week. 
Pour off the clear liquor and add the sugar 
and brandy coloring if required. 

5218. McLean's Neuralgic Liiniment. 
Mix together 4 grains extract of belladonna, 
6 fluid ounces ammonia water, 5 fluid ounce 
oil of turpentine, 5 fluid ounce olive oil, and 
2 fluid ounces tincture of opium. Apply dur- 
ing the paroxysms. 

5219. Hayes' Pile liiniment. Melt 1 
pint lard to the consistence of honey ; stir in 
briskly 1 ounce muriatic acid until thoroughly 
incorporated; and add 1 ounce tincture of 
opium, 2 ounces oil of turpentine, and 2 
drachms camphor. 

5220. Graham's Neuralgic Liniment. 
Mix together 1 fluid ounce chloroform, 2 fluid 
drachms oil of cajeput, Ik ounces camphor, 12 
grains veratrine, and l| fluid ounces tincture of 
aconite root. 

5221. Mexican Mustang Liniment. 
Take 2 fluid ounces petroleum, 1 fluid ounce 
ammonia water, and 1 fluid drachm brandy. 
Mix. 

5222. Heyle's Horse Embrocation. 
Mix together 1 ounce oil of spike, 1 ounce 
ammonia water, 2 ounces oil of camphor, h 
ounce oil of origanum, k ounce tincture of 
opium, 1 ounce spirits of turpentine, and 2 
ounces olive oil. 

5223. Barrell's Indian Liniment. Al- 
cohol, 1 quart; tincture of capsicum, 1 ounce; 
oils of origanum, sassafras, pennyroyal, hem- 
lock, of each 2 ounce, and mix. 

5224. Allen's Nerve and Bone Lini- 
ment. Take oil of origanum, oil of rose- 
mary, oil of amber, oil of hemlock, of each 4 
ounces; spirits of turpentine, 2 gallons; 
linseed oil, 3 gallons. Mix, and color with 
anchusa root. 

5225. Glycerine Jelly. Used as an 
application to chaps and roughened parts of 



PATENT AND PBOPlilETAKY MEDICINES. 



465 



the (Skin. It may be made of pure glycerine 
thickened with tragaeanth powder and scented 
with otto of roses. An imitation may be pre- 
pared in the folio wing manner : Mis i drachm 
good soft soap intimately with 2 drachms 
purified honey ; gradually add 5 ounces pale 
olive oil, stin'ing without intermission until 
all is taken up. Care must be taken not to 
mix in the oil too fast. Finally perfume as 
desired. 

5226. Glycerine Paste. A stiff glutin- 
ous compound, recommended by Dr. Tilt as a 
basis for plaster. It is made by boiling 100 
or 150 grains common starch in 1 ounce of 
glycerine. This is similar to Schacht's plasma. 
{See No. 5009.) 

5227. King's Cordial. Dissolve in h 
pint of proof spirits, Ik drachms each of the 
oils of caraway and cinnamon; extract the 
stones from 3 pounds of black chenies, and 
mash the fruit in a pan ; grate 1 nutmeg ; 
take 2 quarts of Madeira wine, 2 quarts of 
brandy, and 1 gallon of syrup ; mix all to- 
gether, and color with red saunders wood. 

5228. Squire's Elixir. Opium, 1 ounce; 
camphor. 1 ounce ; spirit of aniseed (com- 
pound), 4 pints ; tincture of serpentaria, 1 
pint; water, 4 pints; tincture of ginger, i 
ounce. Some receipts add a little aurum mus- 
ivum. 

5229. Ward's Essence for the Head- 
ache. Spirit of wine, 2 pounds ; rr ihe alum 
in fine powder, 2 ounces ; camphor, 4 ounces ; 
essence of lemon, k ounce; strong water of 
ammonia, 4 ounces; stop the bottle close, 
and shake it daily for 3 or 4 days. 

5230. Henry's Magnesia. A solution 
of Epsom salts is precipitated by one of car- 
bonate of potash in the cold ; the precipitate 
is well washed, rose water being used for the 
last washing; it is then made up while drying 
into large or small cubes. 

5231. Hill's Balsam of Honey. Bal- 
sam of tolu, 2 ounces; styrax, 2 drachms; 
opium, 5 drachm; honey, 8 onroes; spirit of 
wine, 32 fluid ounces. 

5232. Battlejr's Senna Powaer. Senna 
leaves heated until they become light in color, 
reduced to powder, and mixed with some fine- 
ly powdered charcoal. 

5233. Munro's Cough Medicine. 4 
drachms paregoric with 2 drachms sulphuric 
ether and 2 drachms of tincture of tolu. 
Dose, 1 tea-spoonful in some warm water. 

5234. Griflan's Tincture for Coughs. 
Oil of caraway and anise, each 2 drachms; 
safiron, k ounce; benzoic acid, f ounce; 
opium, 5 drachms ; camphor, 5 ounce ; spirit, 
6 ounces; honey, 6 ounces. Wlien mixed and 
dissolved, color with burnt sugar. 

5235. Derbyshire's Patent Embroca- 
tion for Preventing Sea-Sickness. Boil 
2 ounces opium, 2 drachms extract of hen- 
bane, 10 grains mace, and 2 ounces mottled 
soap, in 3 pints of water for h hour. ^WTien 
cold, add 1 quart of rectified spirit and 3 
drachms spirit of ammonia. 

5236. Papier Fayard et Blayn. This 
preparation is now made officinal in the Paris 
Codex, under the name of Papier dit CMmique. 
Heat 200 parts olive oil in a capacious dish 
over an open fire, until vapors begin to be 
given oS". Then add gradually, with stirring, 
100 parts finely powdered minium (red lead). 



As soon as the first efiervescence is over, 
continue to stir and heat the mixture until it 
begins again to efl"ervesce. Then remove 
from the fire and stir rapidlj^, to remove the 
white scum on the surface, and at once add 
6 parts white wax. This is applied to paper 
or muslin with a sponge or brush. 

Before spreading on the paper or muslin, it 
must have been prepared a week earlier with 
the following varnish, to make it impenetra- 
ble : olive oil, 100 parts, and garlic, 10 parts, 
are heated together over the open fire until 
the moisture of the latter is dispelled and 
they turn a brown color, after which they are 
strained. To this mixture are added 80 parts 
oil of turpentine, 40 parts subcarbonate of 
iron, and 15 parts carbonate of lead (white 
lead) in oil. It is also laid on with a brush 
or sponge. 

5237. Papier Eayard. Gout paper. Eu- 
phorbium, 3 drachms ; cantharides, 6 drachms; 
powdered and digested with 4 ounces alcohol; 
and 3 drachms Yenice turpentine added to 
the strained tincture. Fine paper is dipped 
into it and dried in the air. Mohr directs 4 
drachms cantharides and 1 drachm euphor- 
bium to be digested in 5 ounces of highly 
rectified spirit; filter, and add 1^ ounces 
Yenice turpentine previously liquefied with 2 
ounces resin. To be spread on the paper 
while warm. 

5238. Papier Epispastique de V6e. 
This is of three strengths, distinguished by 
the colors white, green, and red. The com- 
position is made by boiling cantharides for an 
hour with water, and lard, green ointment, or- 
lard colored with alkanet ; adding white wax 
to the strained fats, and spreading on paper,, 
silk, or linen. ]S"o. 1 is made with 10 ounces- 
cantharides to 4 pounds of lard ; No. 2 of 1 
pound flies to 8 pounds of green ointment ; 
and N"o. 3 of I5 pounds to 8 pounds of 
colored lard ; and to each are added 2 pounds 
of white wax. 

5239. Bateman's Itch Ointment. 
Carbonate of potassa, 5 ounce; red sulphuret 
of mercury, 1 drachm; hog's lard and flowers 
of sulphm-, each 11 ounces; bergamot, 36 
drops ; rose water, 1 ounce. Mix the potassa 
and powders with a little of the lard, and rub 
them well together ; then add the remainder 
of the lard, previously softened by heat, after- 
wards add the rose water, gently warmed. 
Stir tiU cold. 

5240. Smith's Itch Ointment. Flow- 
ers of sulphm-, 2 ounces ; sulphate of zinc, 2 
drachms ; powdered hellebore, 4 drachms ; 
soft soap, 4 ounces ; lard, 8 ounces. Mix. 

5241. Wiegand's Tetter Ointment. 
Powder and mix 2 drachms submm-iate of 
mercury (calomel) with 1 drachm acetate of 
lead, and 5 drachm red precipitate. Make 42 
grains of the above powder into an ointment 
with 2 drachms of lard or simple cerate. 

5242. "Wiegand's Tetter Salve. Take 
8 grains of the powder in the last receipt, 
mix with 20 drops glycerine, 5 grains pow- 
dered camphor, 5 ounce simple cerate, and 2 
drops oil of lemon. 

5243. Bailey's Itch Ointment. Sweet 
oil, 1 pound ; suet, 1 pound ; root alkanet, 2 
ounces. Melt and macerate until sufficiently 
colored, then add powdered nitre, 3 ounces; 
powdered alum, 3 ounces ; powdered sulphate 



4:66 



PATENT AND FBOPBIETABT MEDICINES. 



of zinc, 3 ounces ; powdered vermilion, to 
color; oil of auibeed, oil of spike, and oH of 
origanum to perfume. 

5244. Beddoe's Pills, for gravel, &c. 
Carbonate of soda, dried without heat, 1 
drachm ; soap, 4 scruples ; oil of juniper, 10 
drops ; syrup of ginger, sufficient quantity for 
30 pills. 

5245. Mathieu's Vermifuge. Tin fil- 
ings, 1 ounce ; fern root, f ounce ; worm-seed, 
I ounce; resinous extract of jalap, 1 drachm; 
sulphate of potassa, 1 drachm ; honey to form 
an electuary. A tea-spoonful every 3 hours 
for 2 days ; then substitute the following : 
jalap, 2 scruples ; sulphate of potassa, 2 scru- 
ples ; scammony, 1 scruple ; gamboge, 10 
grains; made into an electuary with honey, 
and given in the same dose. 

5246. Swaim's Vermifuge. Worm- 
seed, 2 ounces; valerian, rhubarb, pink-root, 
white agaric, of each 1^ ounces ; boil in suffi- 
cient water to yield 3 quarts of decoction, 
and add to it 30 drops oil of tansy, and 45 
drops oil of cloves, dissolved in a quart of 
rectified spirits. Dose, 1 table-spoonful at 
night. 

5247. Calvetti's Manna Lemonade. 
Dissolve 1 ounce pure mannite in 10 ounces 
boiling water, and add sufficient lemon juice 
to flavor. To be drunk cold or iced. Man- 
nite is a peculiar saccharine principle obtained 

a crystalline form from manna. 

5248. Bond's Compound Mixture of 
Iron. Take I5 drachms gum myrrh in tears, 
6 drops oil of wintergreen, 2 drops oil of nut- 
meg, 2 scruples carbonate of potash, 1 ounce 
loaf sugar, ^ drachm sulphate of iron, and 7 
ounces distilled water. Eub down the m^Trh 
with the oils, add gradually a portion of the 
water, making a milk of myrrh ; then add the 
potash and sugar. Dissolve the iron in the 
remainder of the water, and mix the two mix- 
tures by trituration. To be bottled and well 
corked directly. 

5249. Mialhe's Syrup for Hoarseness. 
Take 15 parts syrup of gum-arabic, 5 parts 
syrup of tolu, 5 parts maiden-hair, 1 part 
nitrate of potassa, and 1 part cherry-laurel 
water. Dose, a table-spoonful in a cup of 
sweet balm tea, in short draughts. 

5250. Dewees' Carminative. Take i 
drachm carbonate of magnesia, 1 drachm 
loaf sugar, 60 drops tincture of assafsetida, 20 
drops tincture of opium, and 1 fluid ounce 
water. Dissolve the sugar in half the water ; 
add this to the tinctures previously mixed in 
the bottle. Eub the magnesia with the re- 
mainder of the water ; then mix together the 
two preparations. Direct the mixture to be 
shaken before used. 

5251. Golden Tincture. Take 3 parts 
sulphuric ether, 2 parts acetated tincture of 
opium, and 1 part compound spirit of lav- 
ender. 

5252. Golden Tincture. Sulphuric 
ether, 1 ounce ; laudanum, 1 ounce ; chloro- 
form, ^ ounce ; alcohol, 1 ounce. Mix. This 
preparation is extensively used by the German 
physicians. Dose, from 3 to 30 drops, accord- 
ing to circumstances. It makes an excellent 
local application in neuralgia and other pain- 
ful aflections. 

5253. Napoleon's Pectoral Pills. 
Ipecacuanha, 30 grains ; powdered squills 



and ammoniac, of each 40 grains; mucilage 
to mix ; divide into 24 pills. It is said that 
the above was a favorite remedy with the first 
Emperor of France for difficulty of breathing, 
bronchitis, and various afiections of the 
organs of respiration. Dose, 2 pills night and 
morning. 

5254. Gedding's Piles Ointment. 
Carbonate of lead, 4 drachms; sulphate of 
morphia, 15 grains; stramonium ointment, 1 
ounce ; olive oil, sufficient to make into an 
ointment. 

5255. Ditchett's Remedy for Piles. 
Spermaceti ointment, 8 ounces; powdered 
galls, 1 oimce ; powdered opium, 1 drachm ; 
solution of diacetate of lead, I5 ounces. Mix 
well. 

5256. Brown's Bronchial Troches. 
Take 1 pound pulverized extract of liquorice, 
I5 pounds pulverized sugar, 4 ounces pulver- 
ized cubebs, 4 ounces pulverized gum-arabic, 
and 1 ounce pulverized extract of conium 
(hemlock). Mix. 

5257. Roche's Embrocation, or 
Whooping Cough Liniment. Olive oil, 
8 ounces ; oil of amber, 4 ounces ; oil of 
cloves, a sufficient quantity to give it a strong 
scent. Mix. Eubbed on the chest it stimu- 
lates the skin ; it is useful in general for the 
coughs of children ; in whooping-cough, how- 
ever, it ought not to be used for the first ten 
days of the disease. This liniment is under- 
stood to be the same as the celebrated embro- 
cation of Eoche. 

5258. Dupuytren's Pills. Take 120 
grains powdered guaiacum, 4 grains corrosive 
chloride of mercury (corrosive sublimate), 
and 5 grains powdered opium ; make into 40 
pills. 

5259. Anodyne Necklaces. Beads 
formed of the root of henbane, and used as 
necklaces, to allay the pain of teething. 

5260. Digestive, or Live-long Candy. 
Powdered rhubarb, CO grains ; heavy magne- 
sia, 1 ounce ; bicarbonate of soda, 1 drachm ; 
finely-powdered ginger, 20 grains ; cinnamon 
powder, 15 grains ; powdered white sugar, 2 
ounces; mucilage of tragacanth, sufficient 
quantity; beat together and divide into 
square, flat cakes of 20 grains each. 

5261. Cholagogue. Quinine, £0 grains ; 
Peruvian bark, 1 ounce; rhubarb, 1 ounce; 
sulphuric acid, 15 or 20 drops, or 1 scruple 
tartaric acid; brandy, 1 gill, and water to 
make 1 pint. Dose, 2 spoonfuls every 2 hours 
in absence of fever. 

5262. Malone's Mixture for a Cough 
or Cold. Take 1 tea-cupful of flaxseed, soak 
all night. In the morning put in a kettle 2 
quarts water, 1 handful of liquorice root (split 
up), i pound good raisins (cut in half). Boil 
them until the strength is thoroughly ex- 
tracted, then add the flaxseed, which has 
been previously soaked. Let all boil about 
half an hour more, watching and stinirig, 
that the mixture may not burn. Then strain 
and add lemon-juice and sugar to taste. Take 
any quantity, cold, through the day, and half 
a thimbleful, warm, at night. The above is a 
most excellent receipt. 

5263. Chapman's Copaiba Mixture. 
Make a mixture of ^ ounce copaiba, i fluid 
ounce sweet spirits of nitre, 2 drachms pow- 
dered acacia, 1 drachm sugar, 4 fluid ounces 



TATE XT AXD PROPBIETAEY MEDICINES. 



4.67 



distilled water, 2 fluid drachms compound 
spirit of lavender, and 1 fluid drachm tincture 
of opium. Dose, a table-spoonful 3 times a 
day, A specific remedy for gonorrhosa. 

6264. Morton's Copaiba Mixture. 
Take k ounce each copaiba and powdered cu- 
bebs, 2 drachms each acacia and sugar, 7 fluid 
ounces water, and ^ fluid ounce camphorated 
tincture of opium. Make into a mixture. 
Dose, a table-spoonful every 3 hom^s. An 
eflBcacious remedy for obstinate gonorrhoea. 

5265. Jackson's Pectoral Syrup. 
Macerate 1 drachm sassafras pith and 1 
ounce acacia in 1 pint water for 12 hours; 
add 21 ounces sugar, dissolve the sugar in it 
without heat, filter, and then add 8 grains 
muriate of morphia. Dose, 1 tea-spoonful 
every 3 hours. 

5266. Ayer's Wild Cherry Expecto- 
rant. Mix together 3 grains acetate of mor- 
phia, 2 fluid drachms tincture of blood-root, 
3 fluid drachms each antimonial wine and 
ipecacuanha wine, and 3 fluid ounces syrup 
of wild cherry bark. Dose, 1 tea-spoonful in 
catarrh, bronchitis, and influenza. 

5267. Ayer's Cherry Pectoral. The 
following receipt is said to be somewhat near 
to, if not exactly identical with the receipt after 
which this well known article is compounded : 
Take of syrup of wild cherry, 6 drachms ; 
syrup of squills, 3 drachms ; tincture of 
Wood-root, 2 drachms ; sweet spirits of nitre, 
2 drachms ; antimonial wine, 3 drachms ; 
wine of ipecacuanha, 3 drachms; simple 
syrup, 1| ounces; acetate of morphine, 2 
grains. Mix, and add oil of bitter almonds, 
2 drops ; dissolved in alcohol, 1 drachm. 

5268. Donovan's Mixture of Cyanide 
of Potassium. Mix together 1 grain cya- 
nide of potassium, 31 fluid ounces distilled 
water, and 5 fluid ounce lemon syrup. Dose, 
a, table-spoonful every 2 hours. Useful to 
check vomiting, and allay cough; and, in 
much smaller doses, for whooping cough in 
children. 

5269. Regnault's Pectoral Paste. 
Flowers of mallow, flowers of cudweed, 
flowers of coltsfoot, and flowers of red 
poppy, 1 ounce of each ; boil m a quart 
of water, strain, then add 30 ounces of gum- 
arabic, 20 ounces of white sugar, and 2 
drachms tincture of tolu; dissolve, strain, 
and evaporate to the proper consistence. 

5270. Dennis' Patent Anti-spasmod- 
ic Tincture. Take 1 ounce each tincture 
of scullcap, valerian, myrrh, and capsicum; 
2 ounces tincture of lobelia ; a little soda ; 
and sufficient water. 

5271. Goitre Jelly. Better known, 
perhaps, imder the French name Gelce pour 
le Goitre. Dissolve 1 ounce white soap in 2h 
ounces of proof spirit by a gentle heat ; and 
add to it, while still warm, a wann solution of 
5 drachms iodide of potassium in 2\ ounces 
proof spirit. A few drops of any fragrant 
and essential oil may be added. 

5272. Mettauer's Aperient Solution. 
Take of socotrine aloes, 21 ounces ; super- 
carbonate of soda, 6 ounces ; water, 4 pints; 
compound spirits of lavender, 2 ounces. 
After digesting 14 days, the clear liquor 
may be either decanted or allowed to re- 
main. Age is said to improve both the pow- 
ers and taste of the solution. The common 



dose is 1 drachm, which may be increased, if 
necessary, to an ounce. It is recommended as 
a valuable remedy in most forms of constipa- 
tion, taken soon after meals. 

5273. Coxe's Hive Syrup. Put 1 
ounce each squills and Seneca snake-root into 
1 pint water ; boil down to one-half and strain. 
Then add -^ pound clarified honey containing 
12 grains tartrate of antimony. Dose for a 
child, 10 drops to 1 tea-spoonful, according to 
age. An excellent remedy for croup. 

5274. Bateman's Sulphur "Wash. 
Break 1 ounce sulphur, and pour over it 1 
quart of boiling water; allow it to infuse for 
12 or 14 hours, and apply it to the face 2 
or 3 times a day, for a few weeks. This ap- 
plication is equally useful in removing that 
roughness of the skin which generally suc- 
ceeds pimples. 

5275. AUcock's Porous Plaster. 
The only difierence between this plaster and 
ordinary adhesive plasters is, that rubber is 
used in the place of lead plaster. It is a good 
addition, and very generally recognized by 
makers of adhesive plasters. Take rubber, 1 
pound ; pitch, 5 pound ; thus, k poimd ; and 
capsicum, 30 grains. The plaster, as offered 
for sale, is spread upon muslin or linen, in 
which small holes have been punched out, 
allowing vent for perspiration, and affording 
increased flexibility. These plasters adhere 
very firmly, frequently requiring the applica- 
tion of heat (by means of a hot towel or 
warm flat-iron), for their removal. The skin 
may be cleansed after the removal of the 
plaster, by rubbing with sweet oil, until the 
remains of the plaster are dissolved ; wiping 
it off, and washing with warm water and soap. 

5276. Poor Man's Plaster. Take 
bees'- wax, 1 ounce ; tar, 3 ounces ; resin, 3 
ounces. To be melted together and spread 
on paper or muslin. 

5277. Universal Plaster. A plaster 
is officinal in several of the European Phar- 
macopoeias, under different names, which ap- 
pears to be identical with Keysets Universal 
Plaster, which is sold extensively in this 
country as a nostrum. The following is the 
formula of the German Pharmacopoeia: Take 
of red-lead, in very fine powder, 8 ounces ; 
olive oil, 16 ounces. Boil them in a proper 
vessel with constant agitation until the whole 
has assumed a blackish-brown color, then 
add yellow wax, 4 ounces ; and after this 
has been melted and well mixed, add 2 
drachms camphor, previously dissolved in a 
little olive oil. Pour it out into suitable 
boxes, or into paper capsules, to be cut into 
square cakes when cold. 

5278. Devil Plaster. Cases of severe 
wounds are said to have healed without sup- 
puration after 17 or more days by the use of 
this plaster. It has also been successfully 
applied to fractures and tumors. Take 15 
drachms black pitch, 15 drachms dry resin, 
2i drachms dried earth-worms in powder, 8 
drachms essential oil of turpentine, and 1 
scruple crude alum. Mix well. This plaster 
was much used by an old surgeon of Morello, 
and by his sons, for the cure of wounds with- 
out the loss of substance. The composition, 
which they kept secret, is now published to 
the world by M. Escorihuela. He obtainod 
the secret from one of the heirs. 



4.68 



PATENT AND FBOFBIJETAET MEDICINES. 



5279. Wallace's Pills. Take socotrine 
aloes, scammony, and soap, all iu powder, 
blue mass and compound extract of colocynth, 
1 scruple each, to make 20 pills. 

5280. Canada Liniment. Take water 
of ammonia, olive oil, oil of turpentine, and 
alcohol, of each 1 ounce ; oil of peppermint, i 
ounce. Mix. 

5281. St. John Long's Liniment. 
"White and yolk of 1 egg; oil of turpentine, 6 
ounces ; acetic acid, 1 ounce ; oil of lemon, 
12 drops ; and rose-water, 5 ounces. Mix. 

5282. Brodie's Liniment. Take of sul- 
phuric acid, 1 drachm; olive oil and oil of 
turpentine, of each 1 ounce. Add the acid 
gradually to the olive oil, stirring it in a mor- 
tar ; when cool, add the oil of turpentine and 
mix. 

5283. Good Old Samaritan Liniment. 
Mix together 2 gallons alcohol, 12 ounces oil 
origanum, 4 ounces oil hemlock, and 2 oun- 
ces each of oil of cedar, balsam of fir, spear- 
mint, balsam of life {see No. 5112), oil of 
sassafras, oil of wintergreen, spirits of turpen- 
tine, and sulphuric ether. Mix. 

5284. Physic's Issue Ointment. 
Powdered cantharides, |- ounce ; rose water, 2 
fluid ounces ; tartar emetic, 15 grains. Apply 
heat and evaporate the rose-water one-half; 
strain, and add olive oil, 3 ounces; white wax, 
li ounces; spermaceti, 1 ounce. Mix, and 
apply a gentle heat until all the water has 
been driven off. "When the manipulations 
have been conducted with care, the cerate is 
light in color. 

5285. Beach's Black Plaster or Heal- 
ing* Salve. Take of olive oil, 3 quarts; 
common resin, 3 ounces; bees'- wax, 3 ounces. 
Melt these articles together, and raise the oil 
almost to boiling heat ; then gradually add of 
pulverized red lead 21 pounds, if in the sum- 
mer; if in the winter, ^ pound less. In a 
short time after the lead is taken up by the 
oil, and the mixture becomes brown or a shi- 
ning black, remove from the fire, and, when 
nearly cold, add i ounce pulverized camphor. 

5286. M'Kenzie's Ointment. Powder- 
ed sulphate of zinc, 4 ounces; liquid storax, 1 
ounce; melted lard, 16 ounces. Mix by means 
of heat and triturate over a water-bath for 
about an hour. A useful apphcation for tetter 
and scald-head. Apply night and morning, 
first washing the part with Castile soap and 
warm water. 

5287. Conklin's Salve. Take resin, 12 
ounces ; bees'- wax, mutton suet, and tallow, 
of each 1 ounce. Melt together, strain the 
mixture through muslin, and work into rolls 
in a bath of cold water. 

5288. Newell's Compound Tar Oint- 
ment. Lard and mutton suet, of each 12 
ounces; tar, 6 ounces; bees'-wax, 3 ounces; 
powdered black hellebore, 4 drachms; melt 
and strain, then add flowers of sulphur, 4 
ounces. Used for tetters, salt rheum, itch, &c. 

5289. Turner's Cerate. Take of sweet 
oil, 2 pounds ; yellow wax, carbonate of zinc, 
powdered, of each 1 pound. Mix at a low 
heat. 

5290. Allison's Tobacco Ointment for 
Gathered Breasts. Tobacco leaves (fresh 
and sliced), 10 ounces ; dilute acetic acid, 4 
pints; basilicon ointment {see No. 4964), 13 
ounces. Boil the tobacco in the acid, strain 



and evaporate the decoction over a warm bath 
to 4 fluid ounces; add this to the basilicon 
ointment, heated, and stir the whole together 
until cold. Apply spread upon linen or soft 
kid skin. 

5291. Allison's Acetated Ointment of 
Tobacco. Tobacco leaves, sliced, 10 ounces ; 
cider vinegar (or officinal dilute acetic acid), 4 
pints; basilicon ointment {see No. 4964), 13 
ounces. Boil the tobacco in vinegar to 1 pint, 
strain, reduce in a water-bath to 6 fluid oun- 
ces, and add this fluid extract to the melted 
ointment, stirang constantly till it is cool. 
A flne remedy for gathered breasts. 

5292. Parrish's Compound Ointment 
of Tobacco. Basilicon ointment {see No. 
4964), 13 ounces troy; powdered camphor, 29 
drachms; extract of belladonna, 2 ounces; 
fluid extract of tobacco (made as in the above 
formula), 6 ounces. Dissolve the extract of 
belladonna in the fluid extract of tobacco and 
add to the melted ointment, in which the 
camphor should be previously dissolved. Stir 
constantly till cool. Dr. Parrish has stated, 
in the ISTew Jersey Medical Eeporter, that he 
uses this ointment in nearly every case of 
mammary abscess, with entire satisfaction. 

5293. Mege's Rheumatic Ointment. 
Take 160 parts lard, 6 parts each of the ex- 
tracts of opium, belladonna, and cinchona, 7 
parts ammonia water. 

5294. Mitchell's Ointment of Three. 
Mix together equal parts of tar ointment, 
sulphur ointment, and red oxide of mercury 
ointment. 

5295. Berthold's Chilblain Wash. BoU 
for 15 minutes Ik ounces bruised nut-galls in 
2 pint water, and strain. Apply to the chil- 
blains 2 or 3 times a day. Tannic acid dis- 
solved in glycerine has a very similar effect 
but in a neater form for application. 

5296. Lapis Divinus. This preparation, 
called also cuprum aluminatum, is the pierre 
divine of the French codex. It is made by 
mixing in powder, 3 ounces each of sulphate 
of copper, nitrate of potassa, and alum; heat- 
ing the mixture in a crucible so as to produce 
watery fusion ; then mixing in 1 drachm pow- 
dered camphor ; and finally pouring out th(* 
whole on an oiled stone to congeal. The mass, 
when cold, is broken into pieces, and kept m 
a weU-stopped bottle. When this preparation 
is used as an eye lotion, a filtered solution ia 
made, of the average strength of 30 grains to 
a pint of water. 

5297. Lapis Miraculosus. Fuse to- 
gether sulphate of copper, 3 parts ; sulphate 
of iron, 6 parts ; verdigris and alum, of each X 
part ; sal-ammoniac, i part. It is used for ul- 
cers only. 

5298. Biett's Solution. This is a solu- 
tion of 1 grain of arseniate (not arsenite) of 
ammonia in 1 troy ounce of water. It is not 
as safe a preparation as either Fowler's or 
Pearson's solution, owing to the ready decoiD- 
position of the ammonia salt. 

5299. Pearson's Arsenical Solution* 
This is an aqueous solution of arsenite of sod_a^ 
containing 1 grain of the salt in a fluid 
ounce. 

5300. Sampson's New York Pills. 
The li grain pills consist of powdered coca» 
25; extract of coca, 30/ powdered iron, 3f 
parts. 



PATENT AND rBOPllIETABY MEDICINES. 



4:69 



5301. Oil of Stone. Take crude Amer- 
fcan petroleum, and Barbadoes petroleum, 
of each 2 pints ; oil of turpentine, 6 pints. 

5302. Chelsea Pensioner. Take pow- 
dered rhubarb, 2 drachms ; cream of tartar, 1 
ounce ; guaiacum, 1 drachm ; sulphur, 2 oun- 
ces; 1 nutmeg grated fine; clarified honey, 
16 ounces. Mix. Dose, 2 tea-spoonfuls night 
and morning. A very good remedy for chronic 
rheumatism. 

5303. Indian Cathartic Pills. Keduce 
to a fine powder, 1 ounce each aloes and 
gamboge ; ^ ounce each mandrake, blood-root, 
and myrrh; 1| drachms camphor {sec No. 
4358) and cayenne; with 4 ounces ginger. 
Mix thoroughly and make into ordinary-sized 
pills with thick mucilage. Dose, 2 to 4 pills. 

5304. Turlington's Balsam is much 
like the compound tincture of benzoin of the 
Pharmacopoeia of the U. S., though it is some- 
what more complicated. To make it, take 
benzoin, 12 ounces ; liquid storax, 4 ounces ; 
balsam of Peru, 2 ounces ; myrrh and aloes, 
each 1 ounce ; balsam of tolu and extract of 
liquorice, each 4 ounces ; angelica root, h 
ounce ; alcohol, 8 pints. Digest for 10 days, 
and strain. 

5305. Thibault's Balsam. Myrrh, 
aloes, and dragon's blood, of each 1 drachm ; 
flowers of Saint John's wm't, 1 handful; 
spirit of wine, k pint; Canada balsam, i 
ounce. Digest the flowers in the spirit for 3 
days, then express the liquor and dissolve the 
other ingredients therein. To heal cuts and 
wounds, and to stop bleeding. Internally 
diuretic, in doses of 1 to 2 tea-spoonfuls; 
given in gonorrhoea. 

5306. Locatelle's Balsam. Yellow 
resin, olive oil, and Venice turpentine, of each 

1 pound ; shavings of red saunders wood, 1 
ounce. Boil to the consistence of a thin 
ointment, and strain. 

Or : Yellow wax, 4 ounces ; olive oil and 
Yenice turpentine, of each 1 pound ; alkanet 
root, 2 ounces ; as last. Used as a pectoral 
in coughs and colds. Dose, 2 to 1 tea-spoon- 
ful mixed with, the same quantity of conserve 
of roses. 

5307. Bell's Gargle. Take of pure 
borax, 2 drachms ; yeast and honey, of each 

2 ounce: boiling water, 7 ounces. Mix. 
5308. Mrs, Wheeler's Nursing Syrup. 

Mix together 35 ounces sugar, 4 ounces lime- 
water, i ounce aqueous extract of podophyl- 
lin, 4 ounces fluid extract of poppy, and 1 
drachm oil of anise in 2 ounces rectified spirit. 
The aqueous extract of podophyllin is of the 
same strength as the ordinary fluid extracts, 
16 troy ounces to the pint. The above syrup 
will be found to contain about 2 drops fluid 
extract of poppy in each tea- spoonful. 

5309. Mrs. Wheeler's Worm Confec- 
tion. Triturate to a fine powder, 1 drachm 
mild chloride of mercury and 10 drachms 
sugar; add 25 ounces sugar and 6 drachms 
santonin; mix all together and make into 360 
tablets. Each tablet will therefore contain 
^ grain of calomel and 1 grain santcmin. 

5310. Brodie's Decoction of Pareira 
Brava. Take 5 ounce bruised pareira root, 
and 3 pints boiling water ; boil down gently 
to 1 pint, and filter. Dose, 1 wine-glassful 
««very 2 hours. An excellent remedy for 
©hronic inflammation of the bladder. 



5311. Hufeland's Diuretic Drops. 

Take | fluid drachm oil of juniper, and 3 fluid 
drachms each sweet spirits of nitre and 
tincture of digitalis. Dose, 30 drops every 3 
hours. 

5313. Stephens' Infusion of Cayenne 
Pepper and Salt. Macerate i ounce pow- 
dered cayenne pepper, and 1 drachm chloride 
of sodium (table salt) for 1 hour in 8 fluid 
ounces each boiling vinegar and boiling water. 
Filter. Dose, 1 table-spoonful every 2 hours. 
This has been administered with great success 
in malignant scarlet fever ; used both inter- 
nally and as a gargle. 

5313. Magendie's Acid Solution of 
Veratria. Dissolve 1 grain veratria in 2 
fluid ounces distilled water and 5 drops aro- 
matic sulphuric acid. Dose, 1 tea-spoonful, 
in gouty affections. 

5314. Ryan's Gleet Powder. Take 2 
scruples powdered ergot, 1 ounce powdered 
cubebs, i drachm powdered cinnamon, and 1 
drachm sugar. Make into 8 powders. Dose, 
1 powder 3 times a day, for leucorrhoea and 
gleet. 

5315. Channing's Mixture. Dissolve 
3i grains iodide of potassium in 1 fluid ounce 
distilled water; then add 4| grains red iodide 
of mercury. Dose, from 2 to 5 drops, in cases 
of secondary symptoms, and obstinate skin 
diseases. 

5316, Thomas's Cathartic Pills. 
Take h drachm compound extract of colo- 
cynth, and 3 grains resin of podophyllin. 
Make into 12 pills. Dose, 1 or 2 at bed-time. 
1 pill acts as a laxative; 3 as a free pur- 
gative. 

5317. Parrish's Cathartic Pills. Take 
24 grains aloin, 12 grains resin of podophyllin, 
and 4 minims oleo-resiu of ginger. Make 
into 24 pills. Dose, the same as directed in 
the last receipt. 

5318. Becquerel's Anti-Gout Pills. 
Take 2 drachms sulphate of quinine, 15 grains 
alcoholic extract of digitalis, and 2 scruples 
acetic extract of colchicum. Make into 50 
pills. Dose, 1 pill every 3 hours. 

5319. Butternut Pills. Take i 
drachm extract of butternut, 1 scruple pow- 
dered jalap and 10 grains soapi Make into 
15 pills. Dose, 3 pills, and, if these do not 
operate, administer 2 more. Butternut is 
highly recommended as a cathartic in fevers, 
dysentery, &c. 

5320. Chapman's Peristaltic Persua- 
ders. Take 1 drachm powdered rhubarb, 10 
grains powdered ipecacuanha, and 10 drops 
oil of caraway. Make up with sufficient pow- 
dered acacia into 20 pills. Dose, 2 pills at 
bed-time, in obstinate constipation. 

5321. Composition Powder. Finely 
pulverize 2 pounds bayberry bark, 1 pound 
hemlock bark, 1 pound ginger, 2 ounces cay- 
enne pepper, and 2 ounces cloves. Mix them 
together. This is an excellent remedy for 
weak stomach, dyspepsia, &c. Put i tea- 
spocmful of the mixture with a tea-spoonful 
of sugar into a cup of boiling water. After 
standing for a few moments, drink the con. 
tents. (Some omit the hemlock bark.) 

5322. Le Gros's Itch Ointment. Take 
of iodide of potassium, i drachm avoirdupois ; 
lard, 1 ounce ; mix. Cleanly harmless, and 
effective. 



4.70 



PATENT AND PBOPRIETABY MEDICINES. 



5323. Stokes' Liniment. The formula 
here given for this preparation is the one 
adopted by the Maryland College of Phar- 
macy, and is believed to be as originally pre- 
scribed by Dr. Stokes. Take 3 fluid ounces 
oil of tui-pentine, ^ fluid ounce strong acetic 
acid, the yolk of 1 Qgg, 3 fluid -ounces rose- 
water, and 1 fluid drachm oil of lemon. 

5324. Mother's Cordial. Take 4 oun- 
ces each of starwort (helonias dioica), high 
cranberry bark (viburnum opulus), and blue 
cohosh (caulophyllum thalictroides), and 1 
pound of partridge-beiTy (mitchella repens). 
Bruise or giind the ingredients, and macerate 
for 3 days with enough strong alcohol to 
cover; then displace from them with more 
alcohol 3 pints of tincture, which are set 
aside, and the ingredients exhausted with hot 
water until it passes tasteless. Add '^ pounds 
sugar and evaporate with a gentle heat t 5 
pints ; then mix with the 3 pints of tincture 
and flavor vn\h sassafras. 

5325. "Wyndliani's Pills. Gamboge, 3 
ounces; aloes, 2 ounces; Castile soap, 1 
ounce ; nitre, h. ounce ; extract of cow- 
parsnip, 1 ounce. In pills of 5 grains each. 
{Lee.) 

5326. Anderson's Pills. Barbadoes 
aloes, 24 ounces ; soap, 4 ounces ; colocynth, 
1 ounce ; gamboge, 1 ounce ; oil of aniseed, 5 
fluid ounce. Mix, and divide into pills of 3 
grains each. 

5327. Morrison's Pills, is^o. 1 consists 
of equal parts of aloes and cream of tartar ; 
ISo. 2 consists of 2 parts of gamboge, 3 of 
aloes, 1 of colocynth, and 4 of cream of tartar, 
made into pills with syrup. 

5328. Ayer's Sarsaparilla. Take 3 
fluid ounces each of alcohol, fluid extracts of 
sarsaparilla and of stillingia; 2 fluid ounces 
each fluid extracts of yellow-dock and of 
podophyllin ; 1 ounce sugar, 90 grains iodide 
of potassium, and 10 grains iodide of iron. 
This is from a receipt given by Dr. Aver him- 
self 

5329. Henderson's Lotion for Corns. 
Take tincture of iodine, ^ ounce ; iodide of 
iron, 12 grains; chloride of antimony, | 
ounce.. Pare the com, and apply with a 
camel's-hair pencil. This lotion has been 
much commended for destroying corns. 

5330. Velpeau's Black Caustic. Tri- 
turate in a porcelain mortar 1 ounce powdered 
liquorice root, and add sulphuric acid in small 
quantities until a mass is obtained neither 
too hard nor too liquid. This preparation 
forms a well-marked hard black scab. 

5331. Jarave Spanish. Pour 4 gallons 
of boiling water on 2 pounds Rio Ii^egro sarsa- 
parilla, 8 ounces powdered guaiacum bark, 4 
ounces each of rasped guaiacum wood, anise 
seed, and liquorice root, 2 ounces of bark of 
mezereon root, 2 pounds of molasses, and 12 
bruised cloves. Shake it thrice a day, and 
keep it in a warm place. "When fermentation 
has set in, it is fit for use. Dose, a small 
tumblerful. 

5332. Bouyer's Syrop de Lait lodique. 
Take cow's milk 200 parts; cane sugar, 60 
parts; iodide of potassium, ^ part; and a 
little soda. Mix, and evaporate to 100 parts. 

5333. Cephalic Snuff. Dried asarabacca 
leaves, 3 parts; marjoram, 1 part; lavender 
flowers, 1 part ; rub together to a powder. 



5334. Boeh's Cephalic Snuff consists 
of 2 drachms valerian, 2 drachms snuflp, 3 
drops oil of lavender, 3 drops oil of marjoram; 
mix. This is said to relieve the eyes as well 
as the head. 

5335. Radway's Ready Relief, ac- 
cording to Peckolt, is an ethereal tincture of 
capsicum, with alcohol and camphor. 

5336. Rad way's Renovating* Resolv- 
ent. A vinous tincture of gingci and carda- 
mom, sweetened with sugar. {Hager and 
Jacohsen.) 

5337. Swedish Essence of Life is 
made in this country, under various names. 
As usually made b; apothecaries, it is a tinc- 
ture prepared f r . - 4 parts Joes, 1 each of 
agaric, rhubarb, zedoary. :entian, myrrh, and 
theriac, with 100 to 120 parts dilute alcohol. 
The medicin, manufacturers usually substi- 
tute cheaper articles for the high-priced 
safiron and rhubarb. {See No. 5365.) 

5338. Walker's Jesuits' Drops. Bal- 
sam of copaiba, ^1 ounces; gum guaiacum, 1 
ounce; Chio turpentine, jounce; subcarbonate 
of potash, -J ounce ; cochineal, 1 drachm ; rec- 
tified spirit, 1 quart. 

5339. Molinari's Remedy for Sea- 
Sickness. Digest for 12 hours in If Imperial 
pints of wine vinegar, ^ ounce each ( f rue, 
thyme, mint, rosemary, absinthe, turmeric, 
and green walnut rind; ^ ounce annatto; ^ 
ounce pearlash; and 1 poppy-head. After 
digestion boil for half an hour; then strain 
through linen ; in this decoction arc moistened 
or dipped some 4 or 5 strips of filtering paper 
7 or 8 inches long, and then dried ; upon one 
side of these strips some light stufi'is fastened 
by the corners and some loose wadding placed 
inside. Strings are next fastened to the band- 
age and it is then tied around the body so as 
to cover the region of the heart. This pre- 
ventive of sea-sickness has been patented in 
England. 

5340. Redwood's Nervine Balsam. 
Melt together 4 ounces oil of mace and 4 
ounces beef marrow. Dissolve in 4 drachms 
alcohol, 2 drachms each oil of rosemary and 
balsam of tolu, and 1 drachm each of camphor 
and oil of cloves. Mix all together. A good 
liniment in rheumatism. 

5341 . Chaussier's Obstetric Ointment. 
Extract belladonna, 2 drachms; water and 
lard, each 2 drachms. Mix well. 

5342. Dutch Drops, or Haerlem 
Drops. There is considerable diflerence in 
the ingredients and quality of these long-cele- 
brated drops ; but the most common prepara- 
tion, perhaps, is made according to the follow- 
ing formula: Take balsam of tui-pentine, 2 
ounces; oil of turpentine, 10 ounces. Mix. 
The following is also one of the imitations of 
it made in this country : Linseed oil, 1 quart; 
resin, 2 pounds; sulphm-, 1 pound; boil to- 
gether over a slow fire ; when combined re- 
move from the fire, and add 1 pint oil of tur- 
pentine, and CO drops liquor of ammonia; stir 
well together and bottle. The genuine drops 
are the residuum of the rectification of oil ot 
turpentine. Dutch drops are of course stimu- 
lant and diuretic in their therapeutical eff"ects; 
but they have been regarded by the common 
people as possessed of many other virtues, and 
have been much applied to wounds and othe^r 
external injuries of the surface. 



PATENT ALj) PBOPIilETARY MEDICINES. 



4.71 



5343. Russia Salve. Take equal parts 
of yellow wax and sweet oil, melt slowly, 
carefully stirring; when cooling, stir in a small 
quantity of glycerine. Good for all kinds of 
vounds, &c. 

5344. James' Oil of Gladness. Take 
oil of hemlock, 1 ounce ; linseed oil, 1 quart. 

5345. Green Mountain Salve. Take 
2 pounds resin, |- pound Burgundy pitch, ^ 
pound bees'-wax, | pound mutton tallow; 
melt them slowly. "When not too warm, add 
1 ounce oil hemlock, 1 ounce balsam fir, 1 
ounce oil origanum, 1 ounce oil of red cedar, 

1 ounce Yenice turpentine, 1 ounce oil worm- 
wood, i ounce verdigris. The verdigris must 
be very finely pulverized and mixed ^vith the 
oils, then add as above and work all in cold 
water until cold enough to roll. This salve 
has no equal for rheumatic pains or weakness 
in the side, back, shoulders, or any place where 
pain may locate itself. TV^here the skin is 
broken, as in ulcers, bruises, &c., use without 
the verdigris. 

5346. Keating's Cough Lozenges. 
These are said to be composed of lactucarium, 

2 drachms ; ipecacuanha, 1 drachm ; squills, 
f drachm ; extract of liquorice, 2 drachms ; 
sugar, 6 ounces. Made into a mass with 
mucilage of tragacanth, and divided into 
20-grain lozenges. 

5347. Milburn's Mixtureo Precipita- 
ted prepared chalk, loaf sugar, and gum-ara- 
bic, of each 2 drachms ; green mint water, 41 
ounces ; laudanum, 10 minims ; spirits of 
lavender, 2 drachms; simple syrup, I5 oun- 
ces ; tincture of kino, 1 ounce. Mix. Useful 
in loose bowels in children, and can be given 
to them after each evacuation, regardless of 
number. Dose, from 5 to 1 tabl£-spoonful. 
Shake the mixture well each time before 
using it. 

5348. Ricord's Aromatic Wine. Take 
rue, sage, hyssop, lavender, absinth, rose- 
leaves, thyme, and elder flowers, of each 4 
ounces. Digest for 2 weeks in 9 pints claret. 
Then add tannic acid, alum, wine of opium, 
of each 9 ounces. 

5349. Beyran's Wash. Dissolve chlo- 
ride of zinc in 100 times its weight of pure 
water. This solution is used as a wash for 
chancres, and spontaneously or artificially 
opened buboes that are extending both in 
size and depth, and show no signs of cicatri- 
zation. It is applied twice a day by means 
of lint moistened with it. As soon as the vi- 
tality of the parts becomes favorably modi- 
fied, Dr. Beyran replaces this wash by Ricord's 
wine of cinch(ma or aromatic wine. {See No. 
5348.) 

5350. Charta Epispastica. White 
wax, 4 parts; spermaceti, Ik parts; olive 
oil, 2 parts ; resin, f parts ; Canada balsam, 
i part ; cautharides in powder, 1 part ; dis- 
tilled water, 6 parts. Digest all the ingredi- i 
ents excepting the Canada balsam in a water- I 
bath for 2 hours, stirring them constantly ; ] 
then strain, and separate the plaster from the [ 
watery liquid. Mix the Canada balsam with j 
the plaster melted in a shallow vessel, and i 
pass slips of paper over the surface of the hot j 
liquid, so that one surface of the paper shall 
receive a thin coating of plaster. 

5351. Brodum's Nervous Cordial. 
Take equal parts of iron wiuC; compound 



sprits of lavender, tinctures of calumba, 
gentian, cinchona, and cardamoms. 

5352. Atkinson's Infant Preserva- 
tive. Carbonate of magnesia, 6 drachms ; 
white sugar, 2 ounces ; oil of aniseed, 20 
drops ; spirit of sal- volatile, 2| drachms ; 
laudanum, 1 drachm ; synip of safiVon, 1 
ounce ; caraway water to make a pint. 

5353. Boyle's Fuming liquor. Take 
quicklime and sulphm*, each 3 parts. Tritur- 
ate together, adding water sufficient to form 
a paste, and incorporate 7 parts sulphate of 
ammonia dissolved in water; let the whole 
stand, then decant, wash the residuum, rub- 
bing it with a small portion of water, unite 
the solutions, and filter. This is the sulphu- 
retted hijdrosulpliate of ammonia, and is used 
in medicine as a powerful alterative in consti- 
tutional diseases. 

5354. HaU's Solution of Strychnia. 
Take pure crystals of strychnia, 16 grains ; 
water and alcohol, of each 7 5 ounces ; acetic 
acid and compound tincture of cardamoms, 
of each 3 ounce. Mix for solution. Dose, 20 to 
30 drops, once or twice a day. 

5355. Flemming's Solution of Strych- 
nia. Take of strychnia, 2 grains ; distilled 
water, 5 fluid drachms ; muriatic acid, 1 drop, 
or sufficient to dissolve the strychnia. Dis- 
solve by trituration, and add diluted alcohol 
enough to make 10 fluid drachms. Dose, in 
the beginning, 10 minims. 

5356. Brandish's Alkaline Tincture 
of Rhuharb. Coarsely powdered rhubarb, 1 
ounce; Brandish's alkaline solution, 32 fluid 
ounces. The original formula directs only | 
ounce rhubarb, but as smaller doses than 
were given by Dr. Brandish are now usually 
prescribed, the quantity of rhubarb is here 
increased. Or an alkaline infusion of rhubarb 
may be made by pouring boiling water, 8 
parts, on rhubarb, 3 parts, and carbonate of 
potash, 1 part. 

5357. Brandish's Alkaline Solution, 
or Caustic Alkali. American pearl-ashes, 
6 pounds; quicklime, 2 pounds; wood ashes 
prepared by burning the branches of the ash, 
2 pounds ; boiling water, 6 gallons ; slack the 
lime, add the rest of the water and the pearl- 
ashes, and lastly stir in the wood-ashes ; let 
it stand in a covered vessel for 24 hours, and 
decant. To each pint add 1 drop of true oil 
of juniper berries. Keep it in stoppered 
bottles of green glass. The common liquor 
of potassa is usually sold for the above solu- 
tion. 

5358. Coating for Pills. Durden 
recommends collodion as a covering for pills ; 
others, a solution of gutta percha in chloro- 
form; but the ready solubility of these 
materials in the stomach may be questioned. 
Blanchard uses balsam of tolu dissolved in 
ether. Baildon recommends chloroform in- 
stead of ether for dissolving the balsam. 

5359. Garret's Covering for Pills. 
Soak 1 ounce purified gelatine in 2 or 3 
drachms water; keep it liquefied in a salt- 
water bath. The pills are stuck on long pins, 
and dipped in the solution; when cold the 
pins are withdrawn, after being heated by a 
small flame, which melts the gelatine and 
closer the hole. 

5360. Bochet's Syrup. Compound 
syrup of sarsapariUa; with senna^ and 1 per 



4:72 



PATENT AND PBOPUIETAET MEDICINES. 



cent, of iodide of potassium. TJsedfor scrofu- 
lous affections. 

5361. Betton's British Oil. Oil of 
turpentine, 8 ounces ; Barbadoes tar, 4 oun- 
ces; oil of rosemary, 4 draclims; mix. 

5362. British Oil, or Oil of Stone. 
Take oils of turpentine and linseed, each 8 
ounces ; oils of amber and juniper, each 4 oun- 
ces. Barbadoes tar, 3 ounces ; seneca (petro- 
leum) oil, 1 ounce. Mix. This is an excel- 
lent application to cuts and bruises, swelHngs 
and sores of almost any description whatever. 

5363. Cochrane's Cough Medicine. 
This consists of an acidulated syrup of 
poppies. 

5364. Godfrey's Cordial. The Phil- 
adelphia College of Pharmacy, to prevent the 
mischief arising from the different strength of 
this compound, directs it to be prepared as 
follows : Dissolve 2i ounces carbonate of 
potash in 26 pints of water, add 16 pints mo- 
lasses; heat together over a gentle fire tiU 
they simmer, remove the scum, and, when 
sufficiently cool, add i ounce oil of sassafras 
dissolved in 2 pints of rectified sphit, and 24 
fluid ounces of tincture of opium, previously 
mixed. It contains about 16 minims of laud- 
anum, or rather more than 1 grain of opium 
in each fluid ounce. 

5365. Baume de Vie. Socotrine aloes, 
2 drachms; rhubarb, 6 drachms; saffron, 2 
drachms ; liquorice root, 1 ounce ; proof 
spirit, 8 ounces. Digest for 8 days and filter. 
The original Swedish form is this : Aloes, 9 
drachms ; rhubarb, gentian, zedoary, saffron, 
theriaca, agaric, of each 1 drachm; proof 
spirit, 2 pints. {See No. 5337.) 

53-66. Jozeau's Copahine-mege. The 
intention of M. Jozeau in devising this form 
of copaiba was to furnish an article that the 
stomach would be more able to digest than 
the crude article. To this end he proposed to 
himself to oxidize the copaiba, which he ac- 
comphshes by mixing nitric acid with it. The 
essential oil is acted on, and hyponitrous acid 
gas escapes into the atmosphere. The copai- 
ba thus treated is then washed with water, 
until it no longer reddens litmus paper, and 
one-tenth part of cubebs in fine powder are 
added to it, the same proportion of carbonate 
of soda, and one-sixteenth part of calcined 
magnesia. The mixture is allowed to stand 
until it is quite solidified, and in that state it is 
made into small masses, which are then care- 
fully covered with sugar. 

5367. Ford's Balsam of Horehound 
is said to be prepared according to the follow- 
ing fonnula: horehound herb, 34 pounds; 
liquorice root,. 31 pounds; water, 8 pints. 
Infuse for 12 hours, then strain off 6 pints, to 
which add camphor, 10 drachms ; opium and 
benzoin, of each 1 ounce ; dried squills, 2 
ounces ; oil of aniseed, 1 ounce ; proof spirit, 
12 pints. Macerate for 1 week, then add 
honey, 3-J pounds. Mix and strain. 

5368. Holloway's Ointment. Take 
butter, 12 ounces ; bees'-wax, 4 ounces; yellow 
resin, 3 ounces. Melt, and add vinegar of 
cantharides, 1 ounce. (See No. 1178.) Evap 
orate and add Canada balsam, 1 ounce ; oil of 
mace, i drachm ; balsam Peru, 15 drops. 

5369. Holloway's Pills. Take aloes, 
4 parts; myrrh, jalap, and ginger, of each 
2 parts. Mucilage to mix. 



5370. Sydenham's Laudanum. Ac- 
cording to the Paris Codex this is prepared 
as follows : opium, 2 ounces ; saffron, 1 ounce ; 
bruised cinnamon and bruised cloves, each 1 
drachm ; sherry wine, 1 pint. Mix and mace- 
rate for 15 days and filter. Twenty drops are 
equal to one grain of opium. 

5371. Riegler's Fever Tincture. Take 
of aloes, 5 ounce ; camphor, 4 scruples ; orange 
peel and elecampane root, of each 8 ounces. 
Bruise and digest with 10 pints alcohol (80 
per cent.) for 8 days. Then express, add 
12 ounces dilute sulphuric acid, 6 ounces sul- 
phate of quinine, and 1^ ounces Sydenham's 
laudanum. {See last receipt.) After the use 
of a purgative or emetic if required, 2 drachms 
of this tincture are given 3 hours before the 
paroxysm is expected, with short diet. On 
the seventh, fourteenth, and eighteenth 
day, after the last attack, the same dose is 
given. This remedy fails only in very excep- 
tional cases. It is in use in the Austrian mil- 
itary hospitals. 

5372. Kitridge's Salve. Make a de- 
coction in rain water of I5 pounds each bitter- 
sweet root and sweet elder root; 5 pound 
each hop vines, hop leaves, and garden plan- 
tain tops, with i pound of the root of the last 
named plant, and 5 ounce plug tobacco. 
Strain, and press through a thick cloth, and 
evaporate to 5 pint. Then mix with 1 pound 
sweet butter and 1 ounce each resin and bees'- 
wax. Heat gently until the water has all evap- 
orated. This is a good curative salve for sores 
on the human body as well as on animals. 

5373. Thirlault's Glycero-pomade of 
Iodide of Potassium. Melt glycerine (of 
28° to 30° Baume), 100 parts ; powdered ani- 
mal soap, 50 parts, powdered iodide of po- 
tassium, 130 parts ; in a warm bath ; then 
pour out into a warm porcelain mortar, and 
triturate well for i hour. Then flavor with 2 
parts oil of bitter almonds. 

5374. Elixir of Bromide of Ammo- 
nium. Prepared from bromide of ammonium 
as in No. 5449, without the coloring. 

5375. Patent Dysentery Cordial. 
Take of rhubarb, catechu, and camphor, 
2 parts each; laudanum, 4 parts; and a 
little oil of anise. Dose, 15 to 60 drops 
after each operation. 

5376. Whitwith's Red Drops. Take 
oil of thyme, 4 drachms ; tincture of myrrh, 
2 ounces ; tincture of camphor, 2 drachms ; 
compound spirits of lavender, 2 ounces ; alco- 
hol, 8 ounces. Mix. Dose, 25 drops in some 
suitable vehicle, two, three, or four times a 
day. This is the original receipt, but it has 
been varied in many ways. 

5377. George's Myrrhine. Glycerine, 
38 parts ; myn-h, 7 parts ; arrow-root, 5 parts ; 
chalk, 54 parts ; oil of cinnamon, 1 part. Foi 
the preservation of the teeth. 

5378. Kirkland's Neutral Cerate. 
Mix together 4 ounces litharge plaster, I3 
drachms acetate of lea.d, and 2 ounces each 
olive oil, precipitated chalk, and acetic acid. 

5379. Hufeland's Zinc Cerate. Foi 
sore nipples, ulcerations of the breast, &g. 
Mix 15 grains each oxide of zinc and lycopo- 
dium, with t ounce simple cerate and about 
5 ounce of spermaceti cerate. 

5380. Deschamps' Fuligokali Oint- 
ment. This ointment has been considerabl:? 



PATENT AND PUOPKIETABY MEDICINES. 



4r73 



ased in obstinate chronic diseases of the skin 
as a detersive, resolvent, and stimulant appli- 
cation, and is made by taking of fuligokali, 
16 to 30 parts {see next receipt) ; lard, 1 
ounce. Rah together. 

6381. To Obtain Fuligokali. Take of 
potassa, 20 parts ; bright soot, 100 parts ; wa- 
ter, sufficient ; boil for an hour, cool, dilute 
with water, evaporate to dryness, and keep in 
well-stoppered bottles. 

5382. Hooper's Female Pills. Take 1 
drachm dry sulphate of iron, 15 grains pow- 
dered jalap, 1 drachm powdered aloes and cin- 
namon, and 8 grains myrrh. Mix with syrup, 
and make into 30 pills. Dose, 2 or 3 at bed- 
time for several nights in succession. They 
purge smartly, and act beneficially as an em- 
menagogue. According to a recent analysis, 
the iron is in a peroxidized state ; probably the 
sulphate is partially calcined. The Philadel- 
phia College of Pharmacy gives the following 
formula : Barbadoes aloes, 8 ounces ; dried 
sulphate of h'on, 9^ drachms ; extract of black 
hellebore, 2 ounces ; myrrh and soap, each 2 
ounces ; canella, 1 ounce ; ginger, 1 ounce ; 
water sufficient to form a mass. Divide into 
pills of 24 grains each. 

5383. Nuremberg Plaster. Mix 8 
ounces red lead with 1 pound olive oil, and 
expose to a heat until the mixture becomes 
brown or blackish ; add 5 ounce resin, 1| oun- 
ces yellow wax, and 2 drachms camphor. The 
red lead should not be added to the oil until 
so far heated as to scorch a feather dipped 
into it. 

5384. Green Coloring- Powder. Mix 
together 1 part indigo and 10 parts curcuma 
root, and re'duce to a fi.ne powder. {Hager.) 

5385. Green Oil. Digest for 2 days, 
with frequent agitation, 1 part green coloring 
powder {see last receipt) in 20 parts olive oil. 
Decant the clear, and filter. Keep in glass 
bottles carefully stopped. Or: Boil 1 part 
fresh plantain in 8 parts olive oil, until crisp ; 
press and filter. (Hager.) 

Either of these will produce an oil whose 
appearance is identical with the oil of hen- 
bane, and is probably sometimes sold for it. 

5388. Plunket's Ointment for Cancer. 
White arsenic, sulphur, powdered flowers of 
lesser spearwort and stinking chamomile, lev- 
igated together, and formed into a paste with 
white of egg:. 

5387. Hope's Camphor Mixture. Take 

4 ounces camphor water, 30 drops fuming 
nitric acid, and 20 to 40 drops tincture of 
opium. Dose, a table-spoonful every 2 hours. 

5388. Murphy's Carminative. Take 

5 pint tincture of valerian, 10 fluid drachms 
acetated tincture of opium, 128 p-ains pulver- 
ized camphor, 248 grains carbonate of potassa, 
2 ounces carbonate of magnesia, 40 minims 
each oil of anise and oil of mint, and li pints 
water. Dose for an infant, 20 to 25 drops. 
This is said to be an improvement on Dewees' 
carminative. (See No. biSo.) 

5389. Eisenmann's Opiated Wine of 
Colchicum. This consists of a mixture of 6 
parts wiae of colchicum seed and 1 part wine 
of opium. 

5390. Pierlot's Solution of Valerian- 
ate of Ammonia. Dissolve 3 scruples ex- 
tract of valerian in 7 fluid ounces spring wa- 
ter; add 3 fluid drachms fluid extract of vale- 



rian, and filter; then add 2 drachms valerianate 
of ammonia, 6 fluid drachms orange-flower 
water, and 6 fluid drachms simple syrup. 
Dose, 1 tea-spoonful 3 or 4 times a day. 

5391. Brandreth's Pills. According- 
to Dr. Hager's analysis, these consist of 10 
grains extract of may-apple, 30 grains poke 
berry juice, 10 grains safl"ron, 10 grains pow- 
dered may apple root, 15 grains powdered 
cloves, and 3 drops oil of peppermint. This 
is made into 30 pills with powdered liquorice 
root. 

5392. Foucher's Dressing for Wounds. 
Dissolve 2 drachms chlorate of potassa in 4 
fluid ounces glycerine, and add 24 ounces al- 
cohol. This foi-ms a clear liquid which is 
readily absorbed by linen, and does not soil 
the clothing. It keeps the dressings moist for 
24 hours, is easily washed ofl" with lukewarm 
water, and is well adapted for soft granula- 
tions. 

5393. Atler's Nipple Wash. Take 
2 drachm powdered gum-arabic, 10 grains 
borate of soda, and 1 drachm tincture of 
myn*h. 

5394. Beach's Neutralizing Cordial. 
Mix together 1 ounce coarsely powdered Tur- 
key rhubarb, k ounce peppermint leaves, and 

1 ounce bicarbonate of potash. Put the ma- 
terials in a stone jar, and add 1 pint boiling 
water ; let it stand till cold, and then add k 
pint best brandy and 5 pound loaf sugar. 
Digest for a day or two, and strain through 
flannel. Bottle for use. 

5395. Hager's Vermin Ointment, 
Mix together 12 parts sulphate of quinine, 

2 parts muriatic acid, and 200 parts lard. 

5396. Mayes' Substitute for Osgood's 
Indian Cholagogue. Dr. Mayes, of Mayes- 
ville, S. C, gives the following receipt, which 
he declares to be very similar to, if not iden- 
tically the same, in taste, smell and efl'ects, as 
Osgood's Indian cholagogue. Take 2 drachms 
sulphate of quinine ; 1 drachm Tildens' fluid 
extract of leptandra ; 4 ounces saturated tinc- 
ture of queens' root ; 3 drachms Tilden's ex- 
tract of podophyllin (may-apple) ; 10 drops 
each of oil of sassafras and oil of wintergreen; 
and sufficient best iN'ew Orleans molasses to 
make the whole up to 8 ounces. This mixture 
to be well shaken up before a dose is mea- 
sured; as the quinine (not being dissolved) 
will settle to the bottom of the bottle. The 
dose for adults is from 1 to 3 tea-spoonfuls 3 
times a day. The dose is, however, a matter 
dependent entirely upon the nature of the 
case ; and may be less or more, according to 
circumstances. It usually requires at least 
one 8-ounce bottle of the mixture to insure a 
permanent cure. When Tilden's fluid ex- 
tracts cannot be had, saturated tinctures may 
be used, but in increased quantities; say 
rather more than double the quantitv given 
of the fluid extract. In order, then, to jr^jr^erve 
the due balance, the mixture must be made to 
measure 10 ounces, and a corresponding in- 
crease of dose must be made. 

5397. Norris's Soda Mint. Soda mint, 
so much employed as an antacid and carmina- 
tive for over-fed infants and dyspeptics, was 
originally a favorite prescription of Dr. Geo. 
iS'orris. His formula was the following : Mix 
together i ounce bicarbonate of soda, 1 ounce 
aromatic spirits of ammonia, and 1 pint pep- 



4r74. 



PATENT AND PBOFBIETAEY MEDICINES. 



permint water. Dose, from a dessert-spoonful 
to a table- spoonful for adults; from ^ to 1 
tea-snoonful for infants. 

5398. Foy's Muriatic Acid Chilblain 
XiOtion. Muriatic acid, 1 part; water, 16 
parts. To be u^ed occasionally as a wash. 

5399. Foy's Sulphuric Acid Chilblain 
liiniment. Sulphuric acid, 2 drachms; olive 
oil, 2| ounces; and oil of turpentine, 1 ounce. 
Mis. Applied with gentle friction where the 
skin is not broken. 

5400. Balsam of Peru Liniment for 
Chilblains. Balsam of Peru, 5 drachm; 
muriatic ether, 2 drachms ; and laudanum, 2 
drachms. To be used as a friction, 

5401. Gassicourt's Turpentine Chil- 
blain LiOtion. Oil of turpentine, 4 parts; 
sulphuric acid, 1 part ; olive oil, 10 parts. To 
be applied to the affected part night and morn- 
ing. 

5402. Saunders' Petroleum Chilblain 
Embrocation. Mix together petroleum, ^ 
ounce ; alcohol, \ ounce. 

5403. Radius' Camphor Chilblain 
Ointment. Lard, suet, oil of baybenies, and 
wax, of each 5 ounce. Melt together and add 
camphor, 1 drachm. 

5404. Compound Creosote Ointment 
for Chilblains. Creosote, 10 drops ; solution 
of subacetate of lead, 10 drops; extract of 
opium, li grains; lard, 1 ounce. 

5405. Deschamps' Pastils for Bad 
Breath. Take of dry hypochlorite of lime, 
2 drachms; sugar, 85 ounces; starch, 8 
drachms; gum tragacanth, 1 drachm; and 
carmine, 21 grains. The pastils should be 
made so as to weigh about 2k grains ; 5 or 6 
may be taken in the space of 2 hours. By 
employing starch in the preparation of the 
lozenges, Deschamps wishes to prevent the 
yellow color which they would otherwise as- 
sume. 

5406. Soubeiran's Lotion of Vera- 
tria. Take 15 grains veratria, dissolve it in 
sufficient dilute muriatic acid, and add 5 
drachms glvcerine. 

5407. Noble's Tonic Elixir. Take 1 
ounce each of rhubarb root, orange peel, and 
caraway for fennel) seed; percolate with 1 
pint brandy. Dose, a tea-spoonful 3 times a 
day, after each meal. 

5408. Delioux's "Wine for Rheuma- 
tism, Gout, and Neuralgia. Take 5 parts 
tincture of colchicum seed, 2 parts tincture of 
aconite leaves, 1 part tincture of fox-glove, 
and 200 parts white wine. Dose to com- 
mence with, h table-spoonful 3 times a day. 

5409. Ludlam's Specific. Take 2 
drachms extract of rhatany, 1 drachm alum, 
1 ounce cubeba, all in powder; 1 iiuid ounce 
balsam of capaiba, and sufficient carbonate of 
magnesia. Dose, a small piece every 3 or 4 
hours. 

5410. Davis' Pain Killer. This pre- 
paration is said to be prepared as follows : 
Take 20 pounds powdered guaiac, 2 pounds 
camphor, G pounds powdered cayenne pepper, 
pL pound caustic liquor of ammonia, and 4 
pound powdered opium ; digest these ingre- 
dients in 32 gallons alcohol for 2 weeks, and 
filter. 

5411. Hunter's Red Drop. Triturate 
in a_ glass mortar, 10 grains corrosive sublim- 
ate in 12 drops muriatic acid, and add gradu- 



ally 1 fluid ounce compound spirit of In. ven- 
der. Dose, 5 to 20 drops in wine. A power- 
ful alterative in syphilitic diseases, and will 
not salivate. 

5412. Battley's Sedative Solution of 
Opium. Take 6 ounces sliced opium, 1^ 
ounces bruised nutmegs, 5 ounce Spanish saf 
fron, and 4 pounds veijuice. Boil together, 
and add 4 drachms yeast ; let the whole fer- 
ment 6 weeks, in a warm place. Decant, fil- 
ter, and bottle ; add a little sugar to each bot- 
tle. One drop of this sedative is equivalent 
to 3 drops of black drop. 

5413. Nimmo's Solution of Croton 
Oil. Mix together -J drachm alcoholic solu- 
tion of croton oil, 2 drachms each simple 
syrup and guaiac mucilage, and 5 ounce dis- 
tilled water. This quantity constitutes a 
dose; a little milk to be swallowed before 
and after. 

The alcoholic solution referred to is formed 
by adding 8 drops croton oil to 1 fluid ounce 
rectified spirit of wine (90 per cent.) 

5414. Gregory's Powder. Mix to- 
gether 6 drachms calcined magnesia, 3 
drachms powdered rhubarb, and 1 drachm 
powdered ginger. {See No. 5211.) 

5415. Remoussin's Anti-Syphilitic 
Gargle. Take 1 ounce of a decoction of 
black nightshade and hemlock, and 3 grains 
bichloride of mercury. 

5416. Ricord and Favrot's Capsules 
of Copaiba. Take 270 grammes (4167 
grainsj balsam of copaiba, 60 grammes (926 
grains) neutral pepsin, 12 grammes (185 
grains) subnitrate of bismuth, and 18 gram- 
mes (277-1- grains) calcined magnesia. This 
is sufficient for 600 gelatine capsules. Dose, 
from 15 to 18 capsules a day. 

5417. Ricord and Favrot's Capsules 
of Copaiba and Tar. Take 220 grammes 
(33951 grains) balsam of copaiba, 20 gram- 
mes (3081 grains) ISTorwegian tar, and 15 
grammes (231^ grains) calcined magnesia. 
To make 400 gelatine capsules. Dose, 15 
every day. 

5418. Hamburg Tea. This formula 
for Hamburger Thee is given by Hager. Mix 
together 8 parts senna leaves, 4 parts manna, 
and 1 part coriander. 

5419. Persian Balsam. This is also 
known under the names of Traumatic Elixir, 
Balm of the Innocents, and Baume du Com- 
mandeiir. Digest 1 ounce angelica root and 
2 ounces St. John's wort, for 8 days in 5 
pints 80 per cent, alcohol. Strain, and digest 
with 1 ounce each gum myrrh and gum 
olibanum. Then add 6 ounces each balsam 
of tolu and gum benzoin; macerate for 2 
weeks ; then filter. 

5420. Grahame's Elixir of Bismuth. 
Dissolve 10 minims oil of orange flowers, 1 
drop oil of cinnamon, 1 drop oil of cloves, 
and 2 drops oil of anise, in li fluid drachms 
deodorized alcohol; add 2 fluid drachms 
syrup, and shake the mixture well. Dissolve 
136 grains ammonio-citrate of bismuth in 2 
fluid ounces distilled water and I5 fluid 
ounces rose-water, adding sufficient aqua am- 
monia to produce a perfect solution, Mix 
the two soluticras, add 1| fluid ounces alcohol, 
and, after standing for a short time, filter un- 
til perfectly clear ; if not bright, add about 
2 fluid drachms more alcohol. This is a fine 



PATENT AND PBOPBIETABT MEDICINES, 



4:75 



preparation, each tea-spoonful containing 
about 2 grains of bismuth salt. 

5421. Lugol's Iodine Solution. This 
consists of 1 part iodine dissolved in 2 parts 
iodide of potassium and 20 parts water. The 
solution of this strength is the one generally 
understood as Lugol's solution. 

5422. Iodine Solution for External 
Use. Lugol devised two other soluticms of 
different degrees of strength from the one 
giveu in N"o. 5421. As follows : 

Buhcfacient solution, containing 1 part io- 
dine to 2 parts iodide of potassium and 12 
parts water. 

Caustic solution, consisting of 1 part iodine, 

1 part iodide of potassium, and 2 parts water. 

5423. Camphorated Dover's Powder. 
Pulverize 5 drachms camphor with ether, 
add 5 drachms prepared chalk, 5 drachms 
pulverized liquorice, and 17 grains sulphate 
of morphine. Dose, from 1 to 10 grains, 
used in all kinds of fevers, and as an ano- 
dyne. 

5424. Davis' Neutralizing Cordial. 
Take 8 ounces rhubarb, 2 ounces each saf- 
fron, cardamoms, nutmeg, and carbonate of 
soda; 2 pounds white sugar, and 2 ounces 
essence of peppermint, with sufficient brandy 
and water to make up to 2 pints. Dose, 1 to 

2 tea-spoonfuls. 

5425. German Tea for the Chest. 
The compound known as German Brust-Tkee 
is composed of the following ingredients, cut 
up small and mixed together : Take 4 ounces 
marsh-mallow root, li ounces liquorice-root, 
a ounce Florentine orris root, 2 ounces colt's 
foot leaves ; 1 ounce each red poppy flowers, 
mullein flowers, and star anise seed. 

5426. Frey's Vermifuge. Take 1 
ounce castor oil, 1 ounce aromatic syrup of 
rhubarb, 30 drops oil of Baltimore wormseed, 
and 5 drops croton oil. 

5427. Velpeau's Erysipelas Lotion. 
Dissolve 1 ounce sulphate of iron in 1 pint 
water. Apply to the part afi"ected every 2 or 

3 hours. 

5428. Procter's Vermifuge. To expel 
stomach worms from young children. Mix 
16 grains santonin with 2 fluid ounces fluid 
extract of pink-root and senna. Dose, for a 
child 2 years old, 1 tea-spoonful night and 
morning, until purging talves place. 

6429. Laurence's Hemorrhage Solu- 
tion. Dissolve 2 drachms chloride of iron in 
1 fluid ounce water. Apply with a brush, 
to prevent gangrene and arrest homoiThage. 

5430. Laurence's Styptic Solution. 
If the solid perchloride of iron be kept in a 
bottle, a small portion deliquesces after a 
time, forming a thick brown liquid. This, 
applied to a bleeding surface by means of a 
brush of spun glass, arrests the flow of blood 
ahuost immediately. 

5431. Monsel's Styptic Solution. 
This consists of a solution of subsulphate of 
iron, and is applicable for the same pui-pose 
as Laurence's hemorrhage solution. {See No. 
5429.) The preparation of the solution of 
subsulphate of iron is thus given in the U. S. 
Ph. Mix 510 grains sulphuric acid and 780 
grains nitric acid with 5 pint distilled water; 
heat to the boiling point, and add, 4 part 
at a time, 12 troy ounces sulphate of iron, in 
coarse powder, stirring after each addition 



until eff'ervescence ceases. Boil the solution 
until nitrous vapors are no longer perceptible, 
aud the color assumes a deep ruby tint. 
When nearly cold, add sufficient distilled 
water to make up to 12 fluid ounces. 

5432. Patterson's Emulsion of Pump- 
kin-Seeds. This is a good preparation foi 
expelling tape- worms. Take 2 ounces pump- 
kin seeds, peel and pound to a paste with 1 
ounce sugar; then add by degrees 8 fluid 
ounces water. The whole to be taken in 2 or 
3 draughts, at short intervals, fasting. Dr. 
H. S. Patterson has prescribed this repeatedly 
with success. 

5433. Teft's Dental Ansesthetic. Mix 
1 fluid ounce each tincture of aconite root, 
purified chloroform, and alcohol, with 6 
grains morphia. Used to diminish the pain 
in extracting teeth, by applying two plugs of 
cotton, moistened with the liquid, to the 
gums around the tooth for 1 or 2 minutes. It 
must not be swallowed. 

5434. Parrish's €luinine Pills. Place 
20 grains sulphate of quinia on a slab, drop 
upon it 15 minims aromatic sulphuric acid, 
triturating it with a bone spatula until it 
becomes a thick paste. Then divide rapidly 
into the required number of pills. A 3-grain 
pill made in this manner will not be incon- 
veniently large. 

5435. Grimault's Matico Injection. 
The matico injection, used by Grimault, of 
Paris, for gonorrhoea, is prepared, according 
to Bjoerklund, by dissolving 4 grains sulphate 
of copper in 8 ounces infusion of matico. The 
8 ounces of infusion are made from 2 ounce 
matico. 

5436. Storm's Specific. Take 2 ounces 
sweet spirits of nitre, I5 drachms oil of cu- 
bebs, 2 ounces balsam of copaiba, 1 drachm 
oil of turpentine, 20 drops oil of cinnamon, 
3 ounces mucilage of gum-arabic, and suffi- 
cient tincture of cochineal to color. This 
preparation is preferred by many to the cap- 
sules. 

5437. Milhau's Emulsion of Cod- 
Liver Oil. Take 1 fluid ounce syrup con- 
taining sufficient saccharate of lime to repre- 
sent 6 grains of the hydrate of lime ; 5 fluid 
ounces water, 9 fluid ounces cod-liver oil, and 
6 drops essential oil of almonds. Make into 
an emulsion. 

5438. Bumstead's Opium Injection 
for Gonorrhoea. An injection, composed of 
1 scruple extract of opium, 1 fluid ounce gly- 
cerine and 3 fluid ounces water, passed into 
the urethra after every passage of urine, 
afi'ords relief in local pain, and diminution of 
discharge. 

5439. Ricord's Gonorrhoea Injection. 
Take 20 grains each sulphate of zinc aud ace- 
tate of lead, and 4 fluid ounces rose-water. 
The bottle to be well shaken before using. 

5440. Condy's Fluid. Dissolve k 
drachm permanganate of potassa in 1 pint 
water. This is an excellent hition for burns, 
ulcers, and suppurating surfaces, relieving the 
pain and removing the fetid odor. 

5441. Dewees' Tincture of Guaiacum. 
Digest for a few days 4 ounces powdered 
gum-guaiac, Ik drachms carbonate of soda 
(or of potassa), and 1 ounce powdered allspice, 
in 1 pint dilute alcohol. Add 1 or 2 drachms 
volatile spirit of ammonia to every 4 ounces 



4r76 



PATENT AND PBOPEIETABY MEDICINES. 



of the tincture. To be administered in doses 
of 1 tea-spoonful in a little sweetened milk, 
or in sherry wine, morning, noon and night, 
in cases of suppressed menses. This is an ex- 
cellent and well-tried remedy. 

5442. Powell's Cough Balsam. Mix 
together 2 drachms syrup of tolu, 1 ounce 
paregoric elixir, and 2 ounces liquorice juice. 

5443. Steer's Opodeldoc. I. Rectified 
spirit, 1 quart ; castile soap, iy ounces ; cam- 
phor, 2J ounces; oil <f rosemary, 2k drachms; 
oil of origanum, 5 drachms; weaker ammo- 
nia, 4 ounces ; digest till dissolved, and pour 
while warm into wide-mouthed bottles. 

II. Rectified spirits, 8 pints; white soap, 
20 ounces ; camphor, 8 ounces ; water of am- 
monia, 4 ounces ; oil of rosemary, 1 ounce ; 
oil of horsemint, 1 ounce; dissolve the soap 
in the spirit by a gentle heat, and add the 
other ingredients. Bottle whilst warm. 

5444. Falk's Antacrid Tincture. 
This alterative has been found a valuable 
remedy in secondary syphilis and other dis- 
orders. Macerate for 7 days 1 ounce powdered 
guaiac, 1 ounce Canadian balsam, and 2 fluid 
drachms oil of sassafras, in 8 fluid ounces al- 
cohol. Filter, and add 1 scruple corrosive 
sublimate. Dose, 20 drops in wine or sweet- 
ened water, night and morning. 

5445. Hufeland's Pectoral Elixir. 
Take 3 parts saffi'on, 4 parts each benzoin, 
myrrh, gum-ammoniac, aniseseed, and puri- 
fied liquorice-juice; 8 parts each sneezewort 
root, Florentine orris-root, and squill-bulbs; 
macerate for a week in 93 parts rectified 
spirit, stirring frequently, then filter. 

5446. Hufeland's Aperient Elixir. 
Reduce to coarse powder 4 parts each of aloes, 
myrrh, and gum-guaiacum ; add 4 parts 
bruised rhubarb-root, 2 parts bruised saffron, 
8 parts carbonate of potassa, 8 parts muriate 
of ammonia, 48 parts spirit of horse-radish 
root, and 144 parts distilled water. Macerate 
the ingredients for a few days, frequently 
stirring, then filter. {Hager.) 

5447. Hufeland's Anticatarrh Elixir. 
Take 60 parts extract of blessed-thistle, 20 
parts extract of bitter-sweet, dissolve them in 
480 parts fennel water and 60 parts bitter- 
almond water. Dose, 60 drops 4 times a day. 
{Hager.) 

5448. Meyer's Water of Life. Take 
18 parts fresh myrtle-berries, 12 parts orange- 
peel, 8 parts cinnamon, 2 parts galanga-root, 
2 parts zedoary-root, and 1 part cardamoms. 
Reduce them by bruising and cutting, and di- 
gest them for 3 days with frequent agitation, 
in 600 parts rectified spirit and 680 parts water; 
then strain with pressure, and let it settle; 
decant the clear, filter it, and add 120 parts 
white sugar. {Hager.) 

5449. Elixir of Bromide of Potassi- 
um. Dissolve 2 ounces and 16 scruples bro- 
mide of potassium in 1 pint simple elixir ; add 
20 minims solution of oil of (jrange and 10 
minims of solution of oil of bitter almonds, 
and filter; color with cochineal color. The 
officinal formula for preparing bromide of po- 
tassium is given in No. 4198. 

5450. Hufeland's Infant Powder. 
Take 2 ounces valerian root ; 3 ounces orris 
root, 1 ounce aniseed; 2 drachms saffron, all 
in powder, and 2 ounces carbonate of mag- 



5451. Granville's Counter-irritant 
Lotions. These consist of three ingredients, 
viz. : strong water of ammonia (specific grav- 
ity .872) more than 3 times the strength of 
officinal liquor ammonia ; of spirit of rose- 
mary, made by infusing 2 pounds of the fresh 
tops of rosemary in 8 pints alcohol for 24 
hours, and distilling 7 pints ; and of spirit of 
camphor, composed of 4 ounces camphor dis- 
solved in 2 pints alcohol. 

The lotion is prepared of two different 
strengths; the milder lotion consists of 4 
C.-achms of the ammonia, 3 drachms of the 
spirit of rosemary, and 1 drachm of the cam- 
phor spirit. 

The stronger lotion contains 5 drachms of 
the ammonia, 2 of the spirit of rosemary, and 

1 of the camphor. The milder is generally 
sufficient to produce full vesication in from 3 
to 10 minutes. The stronger is seldom used 
except in apoplexy, and to produce cauteriza- 
tion. 

5452. Startin's Borax and Glycerine 
Lotion. For sore lips, chapped hands, &c 
Take i drachm borax, 5 fluid ounce glycerine, 
and 7 5 fluid ounces rose-water. 

5453. Brainard's Solution for Exter- 
nal Use. Dissolve 16 grains lactate of iron 
in 2 fluid drachms distilled water. 

5454. Birch's Pills for Habitual Con- 
stipation. Take 5 drachm alcoholic extract 
of rhubarb, 24 grains extract of taraxacum, 
and 2 grains sulphate of quinine. Mix to- 
gether and make into 12 pills. One to bo 
taken either on rising in the morning or at 
dinner time, or even at both periods when 
the constipation is very obstinate. This is a 
very gentle stomachic and tonic evacuant, 
particularly useful for the delicate. 

5455. Da Costa's Chronic Constipa- 
tion Pill. Take 1 grain podophyllin, 1 grain 
extract belladonna, 5 grains capsicum, and 20 
grains powdered rhubarb ; mix and divide 
into 20 pills. One piU to be taken 3 times a 
day. 

5456. Birch's Constipation PiU. 
Take 12^ grains compound extract of colo- 
cynth and 40 grains extract of henbane. 
Mix and divide into 20 pills. This is an ex- 
cellent pill for occasional use, especially for 
constipation in old age. 

5457. Ricord's Copaiba and Pepsine 
Pills. Take 11 2 drachms balsam of copaiba, 
2k drachms neutral pepsine, 31 grains nitrate 
of bismuth, and 46 grains calcined magnesia. 
Divide into 100 capsules. Administer 15 to 
18 daily. 

5458. Lime Juice and Glycerine. 
Lime (or lemon) juice, k pint. Heat in a 
porcelain mortar to near the boiling point, 
and add gradually rose water, elder-flower 
water, and rectified spirit, of each 2 ounces. 
Agitate the whole well together. After 24 
hours' repose, decant or filter through calico 
or muslin, then add pure glycerine, 2k 
ounces; oil of lemons, k drachm. Again 
agitate them together for some time, and by 
careful manipulation you will have a some- 
what jiilky liquid; but it should be quite 
free from any coarse floating matter or sedi- 
ment. 

5459. Boudault's Pepsine Pills. Mix 

2 drachms and 34 grains starchy pepsine, 
with sufficient powdered tragacanth to jiokQ 



PATENT AND PBOPBIETABT MEDICINES. 



4=77 



60 pills. Dose, 3 pills before and 3 after 
each meal, and sometimes 3 during the 
meal. 

5460. Hogg's Pepsine Pills. Mix 2 

drachms 34 grains starchy pepsine, 1 drachm 
17 grains nitrate of bismuth, and 38h grains 
lactic acid. Make into 100 pills, and coat 
with sugar and balsam of tolu. Dose, 4 to 12 
pills 1 hour after meals. 

5461. Angelot's Remedy for Ulcera- 
ted Gums. Take of hypochlorite of lime, 
from 10 to 25 grains; mucilage of gum-ara- 
bic, I5 to 4 drachms; syrup of orange peel, 
li to 2 drachms. Mix thoroughly. This 
mixture is employed as a lotion to the ulcera- 
ted gums. 

5462. Angelot's Pastils for Bad 
Breath. These preparations are better adapt- 
ed than liquids for carrying on the person. 
Take of hypochlorite of lime, 7 drachms; 
sugar flavored with vanilla, 3 drachms ; gum- 
arabic, 5 drachms. The pastils are made so 
as to weigh from 10 to 11 grains. 2 or 3 
of these pastils are sufficient to remove 
from the breath the disagreeable odor pro- 
duced by tobacco smoke. The pastils thus 
prepared have a grey color and become quite 
hard. 

If pastils of whiter color are required the 
following substances aro employed : Take of 
dry hypochlorite of lime, 20 gi-ains ; pulver- 
ized sugar, 1 ounce; gum tragacanth, 16 
grains. The hypochlorite of lime is tritura- 
ted in a glass mortar, and a small quantity of 
water is poured upon it ; it is then left to repose, 
decanted, and a second quantity of water 
added ; the two liquids are filtered, and the gum 
and sugar added so as to form a paste. This 
is divided into pastils weighing from 12 to 16 
grains. If it is desired to aromatize the 
paste, 1 or 2 drops of any essential oil may be 
added to the sugar and gum before the paste 
is fonned. 

5463. Santonin Lozenges. Take 5 
troy ounces white sugar in powder, ^ troy 
ounce fine starch, 10 grains finely powdered 
tragacanth ; the whole well mixed with the 
white of 5 eggs previously beaten to a dense 
froth ; place in a porcelain dish over the wa- 
ter-bath, and, with constant stirring, keep at a 
temperature not exceeding 100*^ Fahr. until 
a sample taken from the mixture no longer 
runs from the spatula. An intimate mixture 
of 50 grains powdered santonin and 100 
grains powdered sugar is incorporated with 
the mass, and the whole, by means of a syr- 
inge, formed into 100 lozenges, each contain- 
ing 3 grain of santonin. They are depos- 
ited on smooth or waxed paper, and when 
hard are to be placed between cotton- wadding 
and protected from the light. 

5464. Q,uesneville's Ferruginous Pow- 
der. Bicarbonate of soda, 4 parts; tartaric 
acid, 7 parts ; pure sulphate of iron, 4 parts ; 
sugar, 8 parts. Powder each fine, then mix 
and keep the powder in a well-corked bottle. 
Dose, 1 spoonful in 6 or 7 ounces of sweet- 
ened water, 

5465. Tronchin's Cough Syrup. 
Powdered gum-arabic, 8 ounces ; precipitated 
Bulphuret of antimony, 4 scruples ; anise, 4 
scruples ; extract of liquorice, 2 ounces ; ex- 
tract of opium, 12 grains ; white sugar, 2 
pounds. Mix, and form lozenges of 6 grains, 



one of which is to be taken occasionally in 
catarrh and bronchial afi*ections. 

5466. Pierquin's Cough Syrup. 
Kernies mineral, 2 grains ; gum-arabic, 1 
drachm ; syrup, 5 ounces. Mix. A spoonful 
occasionally when expectoration is difficult. 

5467. Kermes Mineral. Dissolve 23 
troy ounces carbonate of soda in 16 pints 
boiling water ; add 1 troy ounce finely pow- 
dered sulphuret of antimony, and boil for an 
hour. Filter rapidly into a warm earthen 
vessel, cover closely and cool slowly. After 
24 hours decant the fluid, drain the precipi- 
tate on a filter, wash it with cold water (pre- 
viously boiled), and dry without heat. Keep 
in a well-stopped bottle, protected from the 
light. ( U. S. Ph.) This is the oxijsulplwret 
of antimony. 

5468. Rousseau's Laudanum. Dis- 
solve 12 ounces white honey in 3 pounds 
warm water, and set it aside in a warm place. 
TVTien fermentation begins add to it a solution 
of 4 ounces selected opium in 12 ounces wa- 
ter. Let the mixture stand for a month at a 
temperature of 86° Fahr, ; then strain, filter, 
and evaporate to 10 ounces; finally strain 
and add 4k ounces proof alcohol. Seven 
drops of this preparation contain about 1 grain 
of opium. 

5469. Bonnamy's Dentifrice. Take 
prepared chalk, 1 part; burned hartshorn, 1 
part; hydrate of alumina, 1 part; perfume 
with oil of cinnamon. This is an excellent 
dentifrice. 

5470. Extract of Milk. Condensed 
milk, is thus prepared : Take 10,000 parts fresh 
cows' milk, 50 parts white sugar, and 2 parts 
pure carbonate of soda. Place them in a por- 
celain vessel, and, with constant stining, eva- 
porate to the consistence of a thick extract, 
either in a vacuum or by the heat of a vapor 
bath of 140° to 160° Fahr. One part of the 
extract will represent 10 parts of fresh milk. 
(Sager.) 

5471. Milk Powder. Take 10,000 parts 
fresh cows' milk, 2 parts dry caustic potassa, 
and 2 parts borax. Evaporate these in a 
vacuum to about 2000 parts. Then mix in 
thoroughly 50 parts precipitated phosphate of 
lime, 15 parts table salt, 100 parts powdered 
gum-arabic, and 200 parts powdered sugar. 
Evaporate the whole to a dry powder at a 
heat of 950 to 110° Fahr, (Hager.) 

5472. Schwarz's Liniment for Scalds 
and Bums. Take 16 parts linseed oil, 8 
parts white of egg, and 1 part tincture of 
opium; mix them thoroughly by trituration 
with 2 parts acetate of lead. Spread upon 
lint and apply to the wound. {Hager.) 

5473. Hungarian Liniment. Pulverize 
5 parts cantharides, 20 parts each mustard 
seed, black pepper, and camphor; macerate 
for 2 days in 200 parts wine vinegar, then add 
400 parts rectified spirits. Strain with pres- 
sure, and filter. (Hager.) 

5474. Bland's Ferruginous Pills. 
Take equal weights of sulpbate of iron and 
carbonate of potassa ; make into a mass with 
mucilage of tragacanth and powdered liquorice 
root, 

5475. Castillon's Powders. Take 1 
drachm each sago, jalap, and tragacanth, all 
in powder; 1 scruple prepared oyster shell, 
and sufficient cochinetil to color. Boil 1 



4z78 



MEDICAL BECEIFTS. 



drachm of this mixtiire in a pint of milk, and 
use the decoction as a diet m chronic bowel 
affections. 

5476. Goulard's Cerate. This is the 
same preparation as the cerate of suhacetate 
of lead of the U. S. Pharmacopoeia. Mix 4 
troy ounces melted white wax with 7 troy 
ounces olive oil. "When it begins to thicken, 
gradually pour in 2^ fluid ounces solution of 
subacetate of lead, stirring constantly with a 
wooden spatula until cool. Then mix in 30 
grains camphor dissolved in 1 fluid ounce olive 
oil. 

5477. Gondret's Ammoniacal Oint- 
ment. Take 32 parts lard and 2 parts oil of 
sweet almonds. Melt together by a gentle 
heat, and pour the mixture into a wide- 
mouthed bottle. js^M 17 parts of a solution of 
ammonia of 25° Baume, and mix thorough- 
ly until cold. Keep it in a cool place, and 
in a bottle with an accurately fitting stopper. 
It will vesicate, or raise a blister under the 
skin in 10 minutes if properly prepared. 



Medical Receipts. The scope 
of this work does not allow of the 
insertion of much beyond general and speci- 
fic remedies for ailments of every-day occur- 
rence ; it being understood that, in all serious 
cases, the guidance of a physician is indispen- 
sable. Advice and directions are given for 
the treatment of some severe cases requiring 
prompt action, that may be followed with 
benefit until the arrival of the doctor. ISTo 
particular school of medicine is adhered to, 
the efficacy of each receipt being the primary 
consideration in inserting it. The list includes 
many popular and domestic remedies, together 
with prescriptions of celebrated and leading 
physicians. 

5479. To Cure Prairie or Seven 
Years' Itch. Use plenty of castile soap and 
water, and afterwards freely apply iodide of 
sulphur ointment; or take any given quantity 
of simple sulphur ointment and color it to a 
light-brown or chocolate color with the sub- 
carbonate of iron, and perfume it. Apply 
this freely ; and, if the case is severe, admin- 
ister mild alteratives in conjunction with the 
outward application. 

6480. Sulphur Bath. The bath may 
be prepared either by adding 1 ounce sul- 
phuret of potassium for every 10 or 12 gallons 
of water used, or 1 ounce sulphuret <if cal- 
cium for every 15 gallons of water. The sul- 
phur bath is a powerful remedy in every de- 
scription of skin disease. Leprosy (the most 
obstinate of all) has been completely cured 
by it ; the common itch requires only 1 or 2 
applications to eradicate it; all scurfy and 
moist skin affections, &g., speedily yield to its 
influence. 

5481. Benzine for Itch. Benzine, it is 
said, will efiect a cure for scabies in the course 
of half an hour, after which the patient 
should take a warm bath for 30 minutes. This 
has been hinrhly recommended. 

5483. To Cure Salt Rheum. Wash 
the part affected with castile soap and water, 
dry with a soft cloth ; then wet with tincture 



of iodine, and let it dry ; after which apply a 
httle citrine ointment. (See No. 4947.) When 
the eruption is on an exposed part, a wash 
composed of 1 drachm corrosive sublimate, 2 
scraples white vitriol (sulphate of zinc), 3 
drachms sal-ammoniac, 2 drachms salt, and 3 
ounces sugar of lead, mixed with 1 pint soft 
water, may be used alternately with the tinc- 
ture of iodine. 

5483 . Salt Kheum from Photographic 
Chemicals. Make a salve by steeping 
queen of the meadow root over a slow heat in 
fresh hog's lard for from 2 to 6 hours — the 
longer the more powerful the salve. Apply 
this to the eruptions as often as convenient, 
and in a short time there will be a decided 
improvement and a cure will be effected in 
from 1 to 6 weeks. If the stomach or blood 
should seem out of order, take Winchester's 
hypophosphites of lime and soda. Use this 
medicine and no other, as it acts without fail 
and to the point, not being in any way inju- 
rious. Avoid using either iron or mercury, as 
they do no good and are very apt to do in- 
jury. Where the disease is not hereditary a 
cure will be effected in a short time ; where it 
has become a chronic difficulty the cure will 
be slower. When buying the root, ask for 
queen of the meadow root. Be careful not 
to get queen's root, commonly called stil- 
lingia, many druggists not knowing the differ- 
ence. 

5484. Baker's Itch. This disease is of 
common occurrence on the hands of bakers ; 
hence the vulgar name. The treatment is as 
follows: Frequent ablution in warm water, 
keeping the bowels open with saline purga- 
tives, and the nightly use of the ointment 
given in ISTo. 4957 will generally effect a cure. 
Salt food should be avoided as much as possi- 
ble, as well as keeping the hands covered with 
dough and flour ; the latter being the cause of 
the disease. 

5485. Remedy for Tetter, Ring- 
worm, and Scald-Head. Take 1 pound 
simple cerate; sulphuric acid, i pound; mix 
together, and it will be ready for use. 

5486. Remedy for the Tetter. Dis- 
solve 1 ounce sulphuret of potash in 1 quart 
of cold soft water; put it into a bottle and 
keep it tightly corked. Bathe the eruption 5 
or 6 times a day, with a sponge dipped in a lit- 
tle of this solution. If the tetter reappear in 
cold weather, repeat the treatment. This is 
an excellent remedy. 

5487. Remedy for Barber's Itch and 
Tetter. A simple and effectual cure. Moist- 
en the part affected with saliva (spittle) and 
rub it over tliorouglily three times a day with 
the ashes of a good Havana segar. Simple as 
this remedy may appear, it has cured the 
most obstinate cases. 

5488. To Cure Ring-worm. To 1 
part sulphuric acid, aCd 13 to !cO parts water. 
Use a brush or feather, and apply it to the 
parts night and morning. A few dressings 
will generally cure. If the solution is too 
strong, dilute it with more water ; and if the 
irritation is excessive, rub on a little oil or 
other softening application ; but always avoid 
soap. 

5489. Cure for Ring-worm. Wash 
the head with soft-soap every morning, and 
apply the following lotion every night : 1 



MEDICAL BECEIPTS. 



4=79 



drachm Rub-carOonate of soda, dissolved in h 
pint of vinegar. 

5490. To Cure Pimples and other 
Eruptions of the Skin. JS'^ever tamper 
with any breaking-out on the skin; even 
though it be a single red spot, do not apply 
to it so simple a thmg as water, hot or cold, 
but let it alone, and omit a meal or two ; if it 
does not abate, consult a physician. If one 
is not at hand, then live on half allowance 
until it disappears. 

6491. Glyconine, or Glycerine Var- 
nish for Cutaneous Affections. Take 
yolk of egg, 4 parts by weight; rub in a 
mortar with 5 parts glycerine. Applied to 
the skin it forms a varnish which effectually 
excludes tho air, and prevents its irritating 
effects. It is unalterable (a specimen having 
laid exposed to the air for 3 years unchanged), 
and is quickly removed by water. These 
properties render it serviceable for erysipelas 
and cutaneous affections, of which it allays 
the action. It is also very valuable for sooth- 
ing the irritation resulting from burns. 

5492. Cure for Eruptions of the Skin. 
Take 2 ounces rasped sarsapariila root, I5 
ouneeTf solanum dulcamara (bitter-sweet, or 
woody nightshade), I5 ounces mezereon 
bark, ^ ounce rasped guaiacum wood, and i 
ounce sassafras bark. Pour on these 1 quart 
boiling water, let it stand 24 hours, and then 
boil away slowly to I2 pints; press, strain, 
and add 2 pounds sugar and 1 ounce diluted 
spirits of wine. Take a wine-glassful 3 times 
a day with 1 grain precipitated sulphuret of 
antimony. 

5493. Treatment of Sprains. The 
great remedy is rest; when severe, rest for 
days, to save weeks; the best treatment is 
warm fomentations at the time of accident, to 
prevent or reduce the swelling and pain, and 
arnica, applied by means of rags, to prevent 
pain and give strength to the part. The 
tincture of arnica is the preparation used. If 
the skin is not broken, about 20 to 30 drops, 
or even, in severe cases, 60 drops may be add- 
ed to a win^-glassful of water. If the skin is 
broken, or any abrasion is present, the 
strength of the tincture must be considerably 
reduced ; from 5 to 10 drops will then be suf- 
ficient, and if any redness or inflammation 
occurs in or about the sprain, in consequence 
of using the lotion, leave it off at once and 
use only cold water. A firm bandage will be 
iseful to support the part. Walking should, 

} or a considerable time, be only sparingly in- 
dulged in after a severe sprain. 

5494. Remedy for a Sprain or Bruise. 
AVormwood boiled in vinegar, and applied 
hot, with enough cloths wrapped around to 
keep the sprain moist. This is an invaluable 
remedy. 

5495. Sprains of the "Wrist and 
Ankle. As soon as possible after the acci- 
dent, get a muslin bandage 1 or 2 yards long, 
and 2 or 3 inches wide ; wet it in cold water, 
and roll it smoothly and firmly around the in- 
jured part. Keep the limb at rest, exposed 
to the air, and continually damp with cold 
water. The sooner after the accident the 
bandage is applied, the less pain and swelling 
there will be ; but if pain becomes excessive, 
care must be taken to slightly loosen the ban- 



5496. Sprains of the Muscles of the 
Back. Take of Canada turpentine, h ounce ; 
soap liniment, 6 ounces; and 1 drachm of 
laudanum. Mix, and rub well in before a hot 
fire. 

5497. Sprain in the Back. The first 
thing is rest; take night and morning 15 or 
20 drops of the balsam of copaiba. If the 
part is inflamed, apply cold water cloths. 
Let the bowels be kept gently open by aperi- 
ents. When the inflammation is gone, rub 
the part with stimulating liniment. {See No. 
4888.) 

5498. Treatment of Scratches. Do 
not neglect them. "Wash them in cold water; 
close them as much as you can, and cover 
with diachylon plaster. If there is inflamma- 
tion, apply a bread poultice, or one of slippery 
elm. 

5499. To Extract Splinters. Thorns 
and splinters finding their way under the 
skin frequently give considerable pain, and, 
unless extracted, the annoyance may be very 
great, as inflammation will in all probability 
ensue, which is the process nature adopts for 
getting rid of the cause of irritation. If the 
splinter or thorn cannot be immediately ex- 
tracted, for which purpose a needle will be 
found in most cases a sufficient surgical in- 
strument, linen dipped in hot water ought 
to be bound around the place, or the part may 
be bathed in hot water. In the event of in- 
flammation, which may probably issue on the 
production of an ulcer, the steam of hot water 
should be applied, and afterwards a poultice 
of bread and milk. 

5500. Treatment of Cuts. The divi 
ded parts should be drawn close together, and 
held so with small pieces of strapping or ad- 
hesive plaster stretched across the wound, or 
by the application of collodion. If the part 
be covered with blood, it should be first wiped 
off with a sponge. When the wound is large, 
and the parts much exposed, a good method 
is to sew it up. The application of a little 
creosote will generally stop local bleeding, pro- 
vided it be applied to the clean extremities of 
the wounded vessels. A good way is to place 
a piece of lint, moistened with creosote, on 
the wound previously wiped clean, or to pour 
a drop or two of that liquid upon it. Friar's 
balsam, quick-drying copal varnish, tincture 
of galls, copperas water, black ink, &c., are 
popular remedies applied in the same way. 
A bit of the fur plucked from a black beaver 
hat is an excellent remedy to stop the bleed- 
ing from a cut produced by the razor in shav- 
ing. For light cuts with a knife, or any 
sharp instrument, the Riga balsam usually 
stops the bleeding immediately. (See Lock- 
jaxo. ) 

5501. Artificial Skin for Cuts, &c. 
A small quantity of collodion applied with a 
brush to a cut or wound will produce a per- 
fect artificial covering which is more elastic 
than plaster, and sufficiently insoluble in cold 
water. 

5502. Traumaticine, or "Water-proof 
Covering" for Wounds. This article is 
simply a solution of white and dry pure 
unmanufactured gutta-percha in bisulphuret 
of carbon. Dropped on a wound or raw sur- 
face, it almost instantly forms a pliable, wa- 
ter-proof, and air-ti^ht defensive covering to 



4.80 



MEDICAL BECEIPTS. 



tlie part, lesembling, in appearance, gold- 
beater's skin. The fetid odor of the bisul- 
phuret is lost in a few seconds. Chloroform, 
which has an agreeable odor, may be used as 
the solvent, but is very much more expensive 
than the bisulphuret of carbon. 

5503. Treatment of Bed-Sores. Ee- 
■jnove the excessive discharge by gently press- 
ing the part vt^ith a bit of cotton wadding ; 
then paint the sore over with prepared collo- 
dion {see No. 4744), using a soft camel-hair 
pencil. The application may be repeated 
daily, and when it has well dried place a 
bit of soft lint or cotton wadding over the 
part for protection. 

5504. Detergents. Deterge means to 
cleanse. Detergents remove unwholesome 
matters adhering to and obstructing the 
vessels ; usually applied to foul ulcers, &c., 
as tincture of myrrh, honey, alum, water, 
turpentine, &c. 

5505. Treatment of Ulcers. An ulcer 
is an injury done to the flesh, from which 
issues matter, or some kind of discharge, with 
more or less pain and iniiammation. The 
common ulcer should be kept clean and cool, 
and protected from the atmosphere, especially 
in frosty or cold weather. It should be wash- 
ed now and then with warm soap-water. Put 
apon it a little lint, wet occasionally with 
salt and water, and put over it the black 
salve. {See No. 4971.) Perhaps the best 
dressing is the saturnine cerate. {See No. 
4968.) Poultices made of the oak bark or 
sumach bark may be used alternately. 

5506. Treatment of Severe Ulcers. 
Sometimes ulcers are very irritable, tender, 
and painful, and discharge a thin acrid fluid. 
They should be steamed every night with a 
bitter decoction, and occasionally washed 
with an infusion of chamomile flowers, or 
a strong decoction of wild cherry bark, vrith 
a little spirit. Apply a poultice of slippery 
elm, mixed with a strong decoction of poplar 
bark, and a trifle of salt. Eepeat as required. 
If the ulcer or ulcers are indolent, steam as 
before, and apply the cancer plaster {see No. 
5047,) with only a trifle of the white vitriol 
mixed with it ; or, sprinkle the ulcer with 
powdered blood-root. Sometimes ulcers be- 
come very much inflamed, and assume a livid 
color ; they are covered with smaU vesicles 
or blisters, as in mortification. "Wash the 
ulcer with tincture of myrrh, and apply a 
poultice made of charcoal, yeast, slippery 
elm, ginger, and a minute portion of tincture 
of cayenne. Bear it as long as possible. 
Then apply the saturnine cerate. {See No. 
4968.) 

5507. Beach's Remedy for Ulcers. 
The following is recommended by Dr. Beach : 
Take sweet clover tops and stalks, burdock 
leaves, and parsley, a handful of each ; get 
the stiength out by boiling ; strain, and add 1 
pound of resin and J pound of fresh butter ; 
simmer until of a proper consistence. A cold 
water cloth constantly applied is a good rem- 
edy. Put a little cerate on the ulcer previ- 
ously. Attend to the general health by 
cleansing the stomach and bowels, and then 
giving tonics. 

5508. To Disinfect and Deodorize 
Foul Ulcers. Permanganate of potassa 
disinfects rapidly the most fetid ulcers, in 



the proportion of 2 scruples of the salt U 
8 ounces of water as a lotion or injection. 
The most favorable mtthod is to cover the 
wound with lint soaked with that substance, 
and to place above this a layer of raw cotton, 
the latter having the property of filtering the 
air, and to retain the germs which determine 
putrid fermentation. In cancers of the womb 
it is necessary to repeat the injections several 
times a day, 

5509. Ulcers in the Mouth. If the 
ulcers are not of a syphilitic origin, a local 
wash of carbolic acid or permanganate of 
potassa will speedily cure them ; say 1 part of 
acid or permanganate to 100 of water. If 
they are, however, syphilitic, the wash of 
carbolic acid, perhaps 2 or 3 times as strong, 
in combination with internal treatment, will 
be found beneficial ; the wash may be used 3 
times a day. 

5510. Treatment of Running Sores 
on the Legs. Wash them in brandy, and 
apply elder leaves, changing twice a day. 
This will dry up all the sores, though the 
legs were like a honey-comb. Or, poultice 
them with rotten apples. But take also a 
purge once or twice every week. 

5511. Tine Clay as a Dressing to 
Sores. Dr. Schreber, of Leipsic, recom- 
mends the use of clay as the most energetic, 
most innocent, simple, and economical of 
palliative applications to surfaces yielding 
foul and moist discharges. He moreover 
considers that it has a specific action in ac- 
celerating the cure. Clay softened down in 
water, and freed from all gritty particles, is 
laid, layer by layer, over the aff'ected part. 
If it becomes dry and falls off", fresh layers are 
applied to the cleansed surface. The irrita- 
ting secretion is rapidly absorbed by the clay, 
and the contact of air prevented. The cure 
thus goes on rapidly. This clay ointment 
has a decisive action in cases of fetid pers- 
piration of the feet or armpits. A single 
layer applied in the moiTung will destroy 
all odor in the day. It remains a long 
time supple, and the pieces which fall off in 
fine powder produce no inconvenience. 
{Brit. Med. Journ.) "We can corroborate Dr. 
Schreber's observations, having used fine 
clay poultices for several years, chiefly, 
however, in cases of local inflammation re- 
quiring the application of cold. Eags wet in 
water, or Goulard water, so rapidly become 
dry and hot that the benefit from the cold 
application is completely lost. There is no 
dirt when the clay is enveloped in a piece of 
fine linen, and is not too fluid in consistence. 
{Braithicaife.) 

5512. Treatment of Bums. In regard 
to the treatment of burns there is a great di- 
versity of opinion, scarcely any two surgeons 
agreeing as to the remedies. All of them are 
doubtless valuable, but there is one which 
has a great reputation (namely, carron oil, 
see No. 5513). "The great objection to it is 
its ofi'ensive odor, rendering an entire hospi- 
tal ward disagreeable. In all cases of bums 
and scalds, it is necessary to observe that, if 
fever should ensue, laxative medicines ought 
to be given; as castor oil, or salts and senna. 

5513. Carron Oil. This is composed 
of equal parts linseed oil and limewater, and 
should be well shaken before using. 



MEDICAL RECEIFTS. 



481 



5514. Treatment of Recent Bums. 

"WTieii recently inflicted, nothing tends more 
decidedly to soothe or deaden the suffering 
than cold water ; the burnt part should, 
therefore, be immediately placed in cold wa- 
ter, or thin cloths dipped in cold water should 
be applied and frequently renewed over the 
injured surface. After the lapse of a short 
time, when the cold fails to relieve, rags dip- 
ped in carron oil (see No. 5513) are to be 
substituted for the water, care being taken 
to keep the rags moist with the oily mixture 
until the burn heals ; this is the main point 
in the treatment ; the rag or linen must not 
be removed or changed. The carron oil may 
be applied from the first if it is at hand ; but, 
cold water being nearly always to be had, 
will be found very grateful until assistance 
arrives. A large bottle of carron oil should 
be kept in every nursery cupboard, or in 
every house, in a place easy of access, a large 
label being affixed to it, with plain direc- 
tions. 

5515. Treatment of Superficial 
Bums. When the burn is very superficial, 
simply inflaming or vesicating the part, cov- 
ering it up with flour, and then placing a 
layer of cotton over it, so as to exclude the 
air, makes a very comfortable dressing. An- 
other method consists in applying cold wa- 
ter ; and another, warm water covered with 
oiled silk and a bandage. Glyconine or gly- 
cerine varnish {see No. 5491) is also a valua- 
ble remedy. Lard, deprived of salt, and sim- 
ple cerate, make pleasant applications. 

5516. Gross' Treatment of Burns. 
The profession is indebted to Prof. Gross for 
the introduction of white lead and linseed oil 
in the treatment of burns. It is one of the 
very best applications which can be used, 
effectually excluding the air, and being 
always grateful to the patient. In all cases, 
no matter whether merely the skin or the 
deeper structm*es are involved, white lead, 
rubbed up with linseed oU to the consistence 
of paste or paint, and placed on with a brush, 
will be found productive of great relief. 
There does not appear to be any risk from 
the constitutional influence of the lead, 
though it has been suggested, to counteract 
any tendency of this kind, that the patient 
should take occasionally a little sulphate of 
magnesia. 

5517. Bums and Scalds. Every family 
should have a preparation of flaxseed oil, 
chalk, and vinegar, about the consistency of 
thick paint, constantly on hand for burns and 
scalds. A noted retired physician states that 
he has used it in hospital and private practice 
for the past forty years, and believes that no 
application can compare with it, as regards 
relief of pain and cm-ative results. 

5518. Remedy for Scalding. Apply a 
poultice of slippery elm bark and milk, and, 
when the inflammation has left, apply black 
salve. {See No. ^^11.) For very shght burns, 
the black salve alone will cure. The slippery 
elm poultice is a sovereign remedy, and has 
effected the greatest cures. Dr. Beach relates 
a case of severe scalding, in which a poultice 
of slippery elm bark and olive oil alone very 
soon arrested the inflammation and acute 
sufferings of the patient, to the astonishment 
of aU who witnessed the cure. 



5519. Remedy for Scalded Moutk, 

In cases of scalding the mouth with hot li- 
quids, gargle with a solution of borax, and 
then hold in the mouth a mucilage of slippery 
elm, swallowing it slowly, if the throat also 
has been scalded ; the slippery elm bark may 
be mixed with olive oil. Some recommend 
soap liniment, but the latter must not be swal- 
lowed. 

5520. To Cure Slight Bums. When a 
burn is only trifling, and causes no blister, it is 
sufficient to apply a compress of several folds 
of soft linen upon it, dipped in cold water in 
which has been dissolved a little carbonate of 
soda; to be renewed every 15 minutes until the 
pain is removed. Dr. Tissot says, in cases of 
blisters, beat up an Q^g with 2 table-spoonfuls 
olive oil or linseed oil, spread it on soft linen, 
and apply it to the affected part. For very 
slight burns or scalds, the black salve alone is 
sufficient to remove the pain and inflamma- 
tion. {See No. 4971.) If the skn is not 
broken, cover the part with a layer of flour 
or starch, place cotton wool over it, or a 
linen rag, and bind it over lightly. If a 
blister has been burst or cut, use a cerate. 

5521. Carbolic Acid for Bums or 
Scalds. The best application in cases of 
burns or scalds is a mixture of 1 part of car- 
bolic acid to 8 of olive oil. Lint or linen rags 
are to be saturated in the lotion, and spread 
smoothly over the burned part, which should 
then be covered with oiled silk or gutta-percha 
tissue, to exclude the air. The dressing may 
be left on from 2 to 3 days, and should then 
be reapplied, exposing the burn as short a 
time as possible to the air. 

5522. Oil of Brown Paper. Dip a 
piece of thick brown paper into the best 
salad oil. Set the paper on fire upon a plate, 
and the oil that drops from it is a good remedy 
for burns. 

5523. Treatment of Burns and Dis- 
colorations Caused by Gunpowder. Dr. 
Davies, in a recent number of the London 
Lancet, states that he has found the following 
treatment most successful : Smear the scorch- 
ed surface with glycerine, by means of a 
feather, then apply cotton wadding; lastly, 
cover with oil silk. In one case the discolora- 
tion was very great, the patient looking more 
like a mummy than a living being. It entirely 
subsided in a month by the above treatment. 

5524. Nature of Rheumatism. Eheu- 
matism is a diseased condition of the fibrous 
and muscular tissues, chiefly affecting the 
larger joints; the heart and diaphragm are 
also liable to be affected by it. It is a pro- 
moting cause of heart disease. The principal 
forms of rheumatism are these: When the 
joints about the back and loins are affected 
the complaint is known as lumbago ; pains 
in the hip joints are designated sciatica. 

5525. Causes of Rheumatism. The 
causes of rheumatism are various. Yicissi- 
tudes of temperature are the most common ; 
occupying a damp bed for a single night is 
sufficient to engender the disease. Such per- 
sons as blacksmiths, who are exposed to 
severe changes of temperature, are generally 
victims to the complaint. Miners and per- 
sons employed in smelting-furnaces are often 
severe sufferers. There is likewise a hered- 
itary tendency to the malady, which a 



4r82 



Mj^uICAL beceifts. 



slight cold "will develop. Eheumatism 
proceeds from a vitiated condition of the 
blood. A hereditary taint in the circulating 
fluid may be developed by a slight cold, but 
more commonly the blood becomes vitiated 
through mal-assimilation and a faulty diges- 
tive action. The precise principle of the 
poison engendered has not yet been fully 
ascertained. It is generally believed to be 
lactic acid, 

5526. Premonitory Symptoms of 
Piheumatism. An attack of rheumatism is 
imminent when a stiffness is felt in the joints, 
combined with a dryness of the skin and a 
burning thirst. The variety of the complaint 
of which these signs are the precursors is 
termed acute. The other variety is chronic 
rheumatism. The latter may be described as 
an aggravated condition of the former, though 
some persons not only describe them as 
quite distinct, but introduce a variety be- 
tween them. 

5527. Treatment of Rheumatism. 
In the early stages, when there is much thirst, 
;a refreshing saline drink will be beneficial; 

• cold water may be freely allowed, but acid 

• drinks must not be given without consulting 
the doctor, as they may not agree with his 
medicines. A correspondent of the Medical 
'Circular vouches for the relief he has expe- 
rienced in the liberal use of lime (or lemon) 
juice, while laboring under the paroxysms of 
rheumatism. By persistent use of the above 
simple acid for the space of 3 days, avoiding 
;all stimulating liquids, the most confirmed 
rheumatism will, he says, relax, and the tone 
of the muscular and nervous system will be 
-restored to its usual character. 

5528. Local Remedies for Rheuma- 
^sm. Unless anything else is ordered, cot- 
t<m-wadding wrapped around the swollen 
joints, and covered with oil silk, will be found 
grateful ; a kind of local vapor bath is pro- 
duced^ by it. If this is not agreeable, rags 
may be dipped in a saturated solution of 
nitre in water, and applied, care being taken 
to keep them moist; oiled silk should be ap- 
plied round these as well. 

5529. Treatment of Chronic Rheu- 
matism. "When rheumatism becomes chi-onic, 
the general health, particularly the diet in 
(Connection with the digestive powers, must 
be attended to with great care. The attacks 
often arise from pure debility, and will then 
Ibe best cured by tonics and good food. 

5530. Simple Remedy for Rheuma- 
"tism. Bathe the parts afiected with water 
in which potatoes have been boiled, as hot as 
can be borne, just before going to bed; by the 
next morning the pain will be much relieved, 
if not removed. One application of this sim- 
ple remedy has cured the most obstinate 
rheumatic pains. 

5531. Dover's Rheumatic Pow- 
der. Ipecacuanha powder, and purified 
opium, of each 1 part; sulphate of potassa, 
8 parts; triturate them together to a fine 
powder. Be very careful to reduce the opium, 
and intimately mix with the rest. This pow- 
der is recommended by Dr. Dover as an 
effectual remedy for rheumatism. The dose 
as from 2 to 5 grains, repeated. Avoid much 
drinking after taking it, or it might act as an 
emetic. 



5532. Remedy for Rheumatism. 

Take i ounce each black cohosh root, golden 
seal, and nerve powder ; 1 pint of rum. Mix. 
Dose, k table-spoonful 3 times a day. The 
most obstinate cases of rheumatism have 
yielded to the above simple remedy. 

5533. Speedy Cure for Rheumatism. 
Dr. K. H. Boyd states that he cures inflam- 
matory rheumatism in from 3 to 7 days by 
the following method : Give first a full emetic 
dose of tartar emetic (I5 to 2 grains), and 
when this has operated, 5 drops laudanum 
and 5 drops tincture of colchicum, every 3 
or 4 hours, and a tea-spoonful of a half- pint 
mixture, containing 4 drachms acetate of po- 
tassa, every hour. When the patient becomes 
very hungry, and is quite free from pain, 
having fasted several days, he allows 2 table- 
spoonfuls of milk or 1 oyster 3 times a day, 
increasing the quantity gradually each day. 

5534. Remedv for Inflammatory 
Rheumatism. Gelseminum, administered 
in doses of 5 to 30 drops, is a very serviceable 
remedy. The dose should be repeated at in- 
tervals until the pain and inflammation dis- 
appear. 

5535. Rheumatic Alterative. Mace- 
rate for 3 or 4 days 5 ounce each colchicum 
seed and black cohosh root, both well bruised, 
in 1 pint best rye whiskey. A dessert-spoon- 
ful 3 times a day, before meals, has been 
found a valuable remedy in chronic rheuma- 
tism. 

5536. Indian Remedy for Rheuma- 
tism. Macerate the following ingredients 
for a few days in 1 quart rye whiskey : 1 ounce 
bark of wahoo root, 1 ounce blood root, 2 
ounces black cohosh root, 5 ounce swamp 
hellebore, 1 ounce prickly ash bark, and 1 
ounce poke root cut fine. Dose, 1 tea-spoon- 
ful every 3 or 4 hours, increasing the dose as 
the stomach will bear it. 

5537. Spanish Cure for Chronic and 
Syphilitic Rheumatism. Take 4 ounces 
sarsaparilla, 1 ounce rasped guaiacum wood, 
2 ounces extract of sarsaparilla, ^ ounce crude 
antimony. Tie them in a linen rag with 10 
drachms English walnut hulls (or black wal- 
nut), and boil in 3 pints water down to 2 pints; 
strain. Dose, a wine-glassful every hour. 

5538. Jackson's Cure for Chronic 
Rheumatism. 1 drachm cajeput oil ; ^ 
ounce syrup of myrrh; 3^ ounces syrup of 
gum-arabic. Dose, 1 tea-spoonful 3 times a 
day. 

5539. Caution to Painters. Painters 
should seldom wash their hands in turpentine, 
as the practice, if persisted in, will lead to the 
most serious results, even to the loss of power 
in the wrist joints. It has a tendency to en- 
large the finger joints, renders the hands 
more sensitiie to cold in winter, and lays the 
foundation of rheumatism. 

5540. Rheumatic Decoction. Yirginia 
snake-root, 1 drachm ; sarsaparilla in powder, 
6 drachms; burdock seed, 2 drachms; poke 
root, 2 drachms; wine-pine bark, 2 drachms; 
cayenne pepper, I drachm. Powder them, 
and add 3 qnarts of water. Boil down to 2 
quarts. A cupful 2 or 3 times a day. It is 
most valuable in chronic rheumatism. 

5541. Lumbago. It is a species of 
chronic rheumatism, which affects the muscles 
of the lower part of the back, causing great 



MEDICAL EECEITTS. 



483 



pain and stiffness. The patient can scarcely 
stir "without having the most piercing pain. 
It may he confined to one side, or afl'ect the 
loins generally. Its attacks are generally 
sudden, immediately after or in stooping, or 
rising from bed. Lumbago is connected with 
derangement of the stomach, bowels, and kid- 
neys. 

5542. Remedy for Lumbago. Kecti- 
fied oil of tui-pentine, 25 drops; sulphuric 
ether, 1 scruple; mucilage of gum-arabic, 3 
drachms ; syrup of poppies, 1 drachm ; rose- 
water, 1^ ounces; make into a draught; take 
at bed-time. 

5543. Remedy for a "Weak Back. 
Take a beefs gall, pour it into 1 pint alcohol, 
and bathe frequently. 

5544. Remedy for Neuralgia. A 
remedy said to be efficacious consists in apply- 
ing bruised horse-radish to the wrist on the 
side of the body where the pain is. 

5545. Excellent Remedy for Neural- 
gia. A remedy, which is sometimes instan- 
taneously successful, is mixing equal parts of 
sweet oil, spirits of hartshorn, and chloroform ; 
shake it well, and before time is allowed for 
its particles to separate, wet a bit of rag or 
lint, place it on the painful spot for about a 
minute, or less if relieved sooner, but hold a 
handkerchief on the lint, so as to confine the 
volatile ingredients ; if kept on too long, the 
skin may be taken off. 

5546. Effective Cure for Neuralgia. 
Apply a blister of Spanish flies, and let it re- 
main until it draws the skin red (not longer) ; 
then take it off, and apply a morphine powder. 
This is often very effectual. 

5547. Jackson's Neuralgia Remedy. 
Mix Ih. drachms iodide of potassa, 15 grains 
sulphate of quinine, 1 ounce ginger syrup, 
and 25 ounces water. Dose, a table-spoonful 
every 3 hours. 

5548. Whitlow, or Felon. The severity 
of the inflammation in whitlow varies consid- 
erably ; there is the mild form, which gener- 
ally yields to fomentation with hot water 
cloths or poultices; and if matter forms, if 
relieved by the lancet, it speedily heals ; but 
there is a much more formidable affection, in 
which the deep textures of the finger are in- 
volved, accompanied by severe pain, throb- 
bing, and much redness, heat, and swelling. 
This foiTQ is only to be relieved by free and 
early incisions with the lancet; for if this be 
neglected, the bones will become affected, and 
will be destroyed. It would therefore be ad- 
visable to submit the finger to the inspection 
of a surgeon when it does not easily yield to 
fomentations or a poultice. 

5549. Treatment of "Whitlow. Steam 
the whole hand with bitter herbs for 30 or 40 
minutes ; bathe it frequently in strong hot lye 
water. The steaming must not be dispensed 
with. Or: Immerse the diseased finger in 
strong \jQ as long and as hot as can be borne 
several times a day. Apply a poultice of lin- 
seed and slippery elm, with a little salt and 
brandy. The formation of matter is indi- 
cated by a small white spot in the center of 
the swelling. "WTien this appears, open it 
with the point of a large needle or probe, that 
the matter may escape. Repeat if necessary. 
If proud flesh appears, apply the vegetable 
caustic or chloride of potassium, diluted. A 



poultice of powdered hops is very effectual to 
relieve pain. Apply the black salve {see No. 
4971), to heal it. Attend to the general health, 
by giving aperients, tonics, and nutritious 
cooling diet. 

5550. Simple Cure for a Felon. As 
soon as the parts begin to swell get the tinc- 
ture of lobelia, and wrap the part affected 
with cloth saturated thoroughly with the tinc- 
ture, and the felon is dead. An old physician 
says that he has known it to cure in scores 
of cases, and it never fails if applied in sea- 
son. 

5551. Bone Felon. The following re 
ceipt for the cure of bone felon is given by 
that high authority, the London Lancet : As 
soon as the disease is felt, put directly over 
the spot a blister of Spanish fly, about the size 
of the thumb nail, and let it remain for 6 
hours, at the expiration of which time, direct- 
ly under the surface of the blister may be 
seen the felon, which can be instantly taken 
out with the point of a needle or a lancet. 

5552. To Cvire Felons. Stir i tea- 
spoonful water into 1 ounce Yenice turpentine 
with a rough stick until the mixture appears 
like granulated honey. "Wrap a good coating 
of it round the finger with a cloth. If the 
felon is only recent, the pain will be removed 
in 6 hours. 

5553. Treatment of Boils. When 
these appear, suppuration should be promoted 
by poultices of bread and linseed meal, to 
which a little glycerine or fat or oil may be 
added, to prevent their getting hard. When 
poultices are inconvenient, exposure to the 
vapor of hot water, or the application of 
stimulating plasters, may be adopted instead. 
When sufficiently ripe, the boil should be 
opened with a lancet, the matter evacuated, 
and the wound dressed with a little simple 
ointment spread on a piece of clean lint or 
linen. The diet may be full and liberal until 
the maturation of the tumor and the discharge 
of the matter, when it should be lessened, 
and the bowels opened by some saline purga- 
tives, as salts or cream of tartar. When 
there is a disposition in the constitution to 
the formation of boils, the bowels should be 
kept regular, and tonics, as bark or steel, ta- 
ken, with the frequent use of sea-bathing, if 
possible. 

5554. Carbuncle. A carbuncle is a 
species of boil, but larger, and much more 
painful. It shows debility in the constitution. 
Carbuncles are very dangerous, and medical 
advice should at once be obtained. 

5555. Astringents. Substances that 
constrict the animal fibre, and coagulate albu- 
men. When employed to check bleeding, 
they are called styptics. The principal vege- 
table astringents are catechu, kino, galls, and 
oak bark; the principal mineral astringents 
are sulphate of iron, nitrate of silver, chloride 
of zinc, sulphate of copper, acetate of lead, &c. 

5556. To Stop Bleeding. If a man is 
wounded so that blood flows, that flow is 
either regular or by jets or spirts. If it flows 
regularly, a vein has been wounded, and a 
string should be bound tightly around below 
the wounded part, that is, beyond it from the 
heart. If the blood comes out by leaps or 
jets, an artery has been severed, and the person 
may bleed to death in a few minutes ; to pre- 



4.84. 



MEDICAL BECEIPTS. 



vent whicn, apply the cord above the wound, 
that is, between the wound and the heart. In 
case a string or cord is not at hand, tie the 
two opposite corners of a handkerchief around 
the limb, put a stick between, and turn it 
round until the handkerchief is twisted suffi- 
ciently tight to stop the bleeding, and keep it 
so until a physician can be had. This appli- 
ance is called a tourniquet. 

5557. To Stop the Bleeding from 
Leeches. Make a ball of cotton about the 
size of a pea ; put this pellet of cotton or lint 
upon the wound ; press it down firmly ; keep 
up the pressure for a quarter of an hour. Re- 
move the finger cautiously, taking care to let 
the pellet remain, 

5558. Pancoast's Styptic. Take car- 
bonate of potash, 1 drachm; castile soap, 2 
drachms ; alcohol, 4 ounces. Mis. This styp- 
tic has been found preferable to the persulphate 
of iron in many of the minor cases of hemor- 
rhage, inasmuch as it leaves the surface of 
the stump in a healthy condition, and does 
not produce the thick incrustation so often 
objectionable after the application of the iron. 

5559. Styptic Collodion. This is made 
by uniting equal parts of collodion and chlor- 
ide of iron. It is recommended for erysipelas. 

5560. Ehrle's New Preparation of 
Cotton for Stanching" Hemorrhage. 
American cotton of the best quality should 
be cleansed by boiling it for an hour in a weak 
solution of soda (about 4 per cent.), then re- 
peatedly washed in cold water, pressed out, 
and dried. By this process it will be perfectly 
cleansed and adapted to more ready absorp- 
tion. After this it should be steeped once or 
twice, according to the degi'ee of strength 
required, in liquid perchloride of iron, diluted 
with ^ water, pressed, and thoroughly dried 
in the air — neither in the sun nor by the fire — 
then lightly pulled out. The cotton so pre- 
pared will be of a yellowish-brown color. It 
must be kept very dry, as it is afiected by the 
damp. 

5561. Styptic Paper. A mode for 
carrying about chloride of iron as a ready 
styptic has been invented in Paris, which con- 
sists in dipping paper in a decoction of 1 
pound benzoin and 1 pound alum in 4 gallons 
water, which has been kept boiling for 4 
hours, with renewal and skimming. The pa- 
per is left in the filtered solution for some time 
until saturated ; it is then dried, and painted 
over with a neutral solution of perchloride of 
iron ; this is then dried, folded, and wrapped 
in an impervious cover. 

5562. New Styptic Collodion. Collo- 
dion, 100 parts ; carbolic acid, 10 parts ; pure 
tannin, 5 parts ; benzoic acid, 5 parts. Agi- 
tate until the mixture is complete. This pre- 
paration, which has a brown color, leaves on 
evaporation a pellicle exactly similar to that 
of ordinary collodion. It adheres strongly to 
the tissues, and eficcts the instantaneous co- 
agulation of blood and albumen. Tannin ef- 
fects a consistent coagulation of the blood, 
whilst benzoic acid has a cicatrizing action on 
the tissues. 

5563. Spitting of Blood. In cases of 
spitting of blood, it is often difficult to deter- 
mine whether it proceeds from the internal 
surface of the mouth, from the throat, from 
the stomach, or from the lungs. "When the 



blood is of a florid ot frothy appearance, ancl 
brought up with more or less coughing, pre- 
ceded by a short tickling cough, a saltish 
taste, anxiety, and tightness across the chest, 
its source is the lungs. The blood proceeding 
from the lungs is usually of a florid color, and 
mixed with a little frothy mucous only. It 
may be distinguished from bleeding from the 
stomach, by its being raised by hacking or 
coughing, and by its florid and frothy appear- 
ance; that from the stomach is vomited in 
considerable quantities, and is of a dark 
color. 

5564. Treatment for Spitting of 
Blood. Moderate the discharge of blood by 
avoiding whatever tends to irritate the body 
and increase the action of the heart. A low 
diet should be strictly observed, and external 
heat and bodily exercise a,voided ; the air of 
the room should be cool, and the drink 
(which should consist chiefly of barley-water, 
acidulated with lemon-juice), taken cold, and 
the patient not sufiered to exert his voice. 
After the operation of a little gentle aperient 
medicine, as lenitive electuary, or an infusion 
of senna, with a little cream of tartar dis- 
solved in it, take 10 drops of laudanum and 
10 drops of elixir of vitriol in half a cupful of 
cold water. If there is no cough, the lauda- 
num may be omitted. A little salt and water 
given will often check spitting of blood, when 
it comes on. Put the feet in warm water, 
and give as above, the elixir of vitriol, &c. 
Give also ipecacuanha powder in small doses 
of from 1 to 2 grains every 4 hours. 

5565. Bleeding from the Nose. This 
may be caused by violence, or may arise 
from an impoverished state of the blood. 
When it occurs in persons of middle age it is 
more serious, as it is then often a symptom 
of some other disease. The bleeding can 
generally be stopped by making the patient 
raise both his arms above his head, and hold 
them there for some time. Sponging with 
cold or iced water to the forehead and face, 
or applying a towel wet with cold water be- 
tween the shoulders, will, in most cases, suc- 
ceed. The application of a strong solution of 
alum or iron-alum to the inside of the nostrils, 
or plugging the nostrils with lint or cotton 
wool soaked in the solution, may be necessary 
if the bleeding is profuse. The health of per- 
sons subject to these attacks should be im- 
proved by nutritious diet, animal food, with 
potatoes, water-cresses, and fruit. The fol- 
lowing prescription may be relied on : Tinc- 
ture of steel, 2 drachms ; dilute muriatic acid, 
1 drachm ; syrup of orange peel, 1 ounce ; 
infusion of calumba, 7 ounces. Mix. For a 
child, 1 table-spoonful in a wine-glass of water 
before meals ; for an adult the dose may be 
increased. 

5566. To Stop Bleeding at the Nose. 
Placing a small roll of paper or muslin 
above the front teeth, under the upper hp, 
and pressing hard on the same, will arrest 
bleeding from the nose, checking the pas< 
sage of blood through the arteries leading to 
the nose. 

5567. Astringent for Leech-Bites. 
Dissolve 1 part of crystallized perchloride oj 
iron in 6 parts of collodion very gradually. 
A drop or two of the product forms an ad- 
mirable styptic. 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



4=S^ 



5568. Antispasimodics. Medicines 
that allay spasms and other pains. Bark, 
opium, camphor, ether, musk, castor, assa- 
foetida. valerian, and chalybeates, are anti- 
spasmodics. 

5569. Ne.r^nes — sometimes called 
neurotics — s-re suostances or agents which re- 
lieve disordev^ of the nerves. Antispasmod- 
ics, chalybeates, and vegetable tonics belong 
to this class. 

5570. Treatment of Nervousness. 
The cure of nervousness is best effected by 
restoring the healthy action of the stomach 
and bowels, and by the use of proper exercise, 
especially in the open air. The stomach 
should not be overloaded with indigestible 
food, and the bowels should be occasionally 
relieved by the use of some mild aperient. 
Abernethy's injunction to a nervous and dys- 
peptic lady, " Dismiss your servants, madam, 
and make your own beds," should be recollect- 
ed by all as a proof of the importance that 
eminent surgeon attached to exercise. Ya- 
lerian is a medicine of great use in nervous 
disorders, hysteria, lowness of spirits, restless- 
ness, and diseases of the bladder, &q. The 
common dose is from a scruple to a drachm, 
in powder; and in infusion from 1 to 2 
drachms. Its unpleasant flavor may be neu- 
tralized by the addition of mace. Assafoetida 
is also recommended. Take assafoetida, I5 
drachms; water, 6 fluid ounces. Dose, 1 to 
3 table-spoonfuls thrice or oftener, daily. But 
there is no remedy for nervous disorders of 
every kind, comparable to the proper and 
constant use of magnetic electricity. 

5571. Nerve Powder. Take 1 ounce 
each of scullcap, valerian and catnip ; and cay- 
enne, 1 drachm ; coriander seeds, i ounce. 
Pulverize, and mix. Take 1 tea-spoonful in a 
cupful of boiling water, leaving room for milk 
and sugar. Kepeat according to the symp- 
toms. This powder tranquillizes the most 
irritable nerves without debilitating and dead- 
ening their sensibility. It greatly strengthens 
the nerves. 

5572. Nervous Mixture. Liquid car- 
bonate of ammonia, 5 drachm; compound 
tincture of cardamom, 5 ounce ; oil of laven- 
der, 8 drops; mint water, 3 ounces; mix, 
and take in two or three doses. It is inval- 
uable. 

5573. Nervous Pill. Assafoetida, ex- 
tract of hops, carbonate of ammonia, of each 
1 ounce ; extract of valerian, 20 grains. Dis- 
solve the first two ingredients over the fire, 
then take off, and add the others ; mix well, 
and with a few drops of the oil of lavender, 
and a little powdered hquorice, form into 
pills. Dose, 1 or 2 once or twice a day. 
Valuable in all nervous and hysterical dis- 
orders. 

5574. Nervous Tincture. Compound 
tincture of bark, 2 ounces ; ammoniated tinc- 
ture of valerian, li ounces; compound tincture 
of aloes, 2 ounce. Mix. Good for general 
weakness, low spirits, and nervous irritabil- 
ity. Two tea-spo(mfuls twice a day. {See 
No. 5570.) 

5575. Mixture of Valerian and Car- 
bonate of Ammonia. An excellent remedy 
for nervous headache and depression of spirits. 
Mix 3 drops oil of valerian and 10 grains car- 
bonate o^ ammonia with I2 fluid ounces 



cinnamon water and 2 fluid ounce syrup. 
One-half to be taken every 4 hours. 

5576. Remedy for Spasms. Take of 
acetate of morphia, 1 grain ; spirit of sal-vola- 
tile and sulphuric ether, of each 1 fluid ounce , 
camphor julep, 4 fluid ounces. Mix. It 
should be kept closely corked, in a cool place, 
and should bo well shaken before use. Dose, 
1 tea-spoonful in a glassful of cold water 01 
wine, as required. 

5577. Hypochondriasis, or Low 
Spirits. Hypochondriasis, low spirits, or 
"■ blues," is a peculiar state of the mind, ac- 
companied with indigestion. The principal 
objects of treatment are, to remove the indi- 
gestion, to strengthen the body, and to en- 
liven the spirits; and one of the best plans 
with which we are acquainted for this is 
constant exercise and change of place, with a 
warm bath about thrice a week ; early hours, 
regular meals, and pleasant conversation ; the 
bowels being at the same time carefully reg- 
ulated by the occasional use of a mild pill, 
and the stomach strengthened by some appro- 
priate tonic medicine. 

5578. To Dissolve Cluinine. Sulphate 
of quinine (sometimes called simply quinine) 
when forming a part of a fluid mixture, must 
be dissolved in sulphuric acid before com- 
pounding with the other ingredients. In 
most of the fluid receipts which contain qui- 
nine, a small quantity of the acid is prescribed 
solely for this purpose ; it should be added to 
the quinine drop by drop, and only sufficient 
used to make a perfect solution. 

5579. Remedy for Fever and Ague. 
Peruvian bark, 2 ounces; wild-cherry tree 
bark, 1 ounce ; cinnamon, 1 drachm, all pul- 
verized ; capsicum, 1 tea-spoonful ; sulphur, 1 
ounce ; port wine, 2 quarts. Let stand a day 
or two. Always buy the Peruvian bark and 
pulverize it, as most ready pulverized articles 
are adulterated. This is the reason why more 
cures are not performed by it. Dose, a wine- 
glassful every 2 or 3 hours in the day until 
broken ; then 2 or 3 a day until all is used. 
This mixture will be found an infallible cure 
for inteiTnittent fever and fever and ague. It 
removes the disease when all other means fail, 
and may be used by those who object to qui- 
nine. 

5580. Cure for Ague. To 5 tea-spoon- 
fuls water, add 50 drops tincture of gelsemi- 
num and 10 grains quinine. Shake well before 
using. Administer 1 tea-spoonful in a wine- 
glass of sugar water every 2 hours. This 
medicine has a tendency to afiect the head 
and vision, and produce physical prostration. 
When these symptoms become developed, 
cease the doses, and the efiects will pass 
ofi^, leaving the patient completely restored. 
These directions must be adhered to, as gel- 
seminum, administered after its eflects have 
become apparent, may be attended with 
serious consequences. {See No. 5578.) This 
is an excellent remedy. 

5581. Dr. Krieder's Ague Pills. Take 
20 grains quinine, 10 grains Dover's powder, 
{see No. 5176), 10 grains sub-carbonate of 
iron ; mix with molasses or mucilage of gum- 
arabic, and divide into 20 pills. Dose, 2 each 
hour, commencing 5 hours before the chill 
should set in. Then take one night and morn- 
ing until all are taken. {See No. 5584.) 



4r86 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS 



5582. duinine Mixture for Children. 

For small children nothing is better than 5 or 
6 grains dissolved {see No. 5578) quinine in 
a 2-ounce vial, 1 table-spoonful of white sugar, 
then fill with water. Dose, 1 table-spoonful 
as above. 

5583. Caution in the Use of duinine. 
In all cases where quinine is to be adminis- 
tered, first give a cathartic to cleanse the 
stomach and bowels. 

5584. Ague Mixture. Dissolve 20 grains 
quinine, mix it with 1 pint diluted gin or 
port-wine, and add 10 grains Dover's pow- 
der {see No. 5176), and 10 grains sub-carbon- 
ate of iron. Dose, a wine-glass each hour 
until the ague is broken, and then 2 or 3 times 
a day till the whole has been used. This is 
receipt No. 5581, in a liquid form. It may be 
used when the pills are objectionable. 

5585. Remedy for Cold in the Head. 
Pollion, of France, recommends the inhaling 
of hartshorn for curing colds in the head. The 
inhalation by the nose he recommends 7 or 8 
times in 5 minutes. Spirits of camphor may 
be used in the same manner with beneficial 
results. 

5586. Catarrh. There is perhaps no 
complaint so common as catarrh, or cold in 
the head ; it occurs both in winter and sum- 
mer; and it is generally said that a summer 
cold is more difficult to get rid of than a win- 
ter one. The attack sets in with pains in the 
limbs and back, lassitude, and a sense of 
tightness across the forehead, repeated sneez- 
ing, watery and inflamed eyes, and increased 
discharge from the nose ; sometimes there is 
inflammation of the throat and tonsils^ and 
an eruption of vesicles about the lips. 

5587. To Cure Catarrh. Remedies 
without number have been recommended for 
catarrh, but few are better than the old-fash- 
ioned plan — putting the feet into hot water, 
giving ]0 grains of Dover's powder {see No. 
5176) a hot drink, and plenty of blankets, 

5588. Brown Mixture. Take powder- 
ed extract of liquorice and powdered gum- 
arabic, of each 2 drachms ; hot water, 4 fluid 
ounces ; mix, and add spirit of nitrous ether, 
1 fluid drachm; antimonial wine, 2 fluid 
drachms ; and tincture of opium, 40 minims. 
A table-spoonful for a dose. This is an ex- 
cellent remedy in the early stages of catarrh ; 
it is the well-known compound liquorice mix- 
ture of the Pharmacopoeia. 

5589. Flaxseed Tea. Macerate 1 
ounce flaxseed and ^ ounce bruised liquorice 
root in 1 pint boiling water for 2 hours, in a 
lightly closed vessel; filter, and add 1 fluid 
ounce lemon juice. This is a good drink in 
cases of catarrh. 

5590. To Reheve a Cough. The 
troublesome cough caused by an accumula- 
tion of phlegm in the throat, especially in the 
morning, experienced mostly by persons 
afi'ected with chronic catarrh, can be relieved 
instantly by taking a tea-spoonful of the fol- 
lowing mixture, which has also the advantage 
of being harmless to the stomach, rather im- 
proving the appetite. Put into an 8-ounce 
phial, 5 ounce muriate of ammonia and ^ 
ounce pulverized gum-liquorice ; fill the phial 
nearly full with hot water, and shake thor- 
oughly, to prevent the liquorice from becom- 
ing solid; shake also before using. 



5591. Hay Fever. This very peculiai 
disease appears generally as a severe attack oi 
catarrh, with asthmatic symptoms super- 
added. The lining membrane of the eyes, 
nose, throat, and lungs is all more or less 
afi'ected. The patient suffers from head- 
ache, sometimes severe, sneezing, irritation of 
the nose and throat, with a dry harassing 
cough. The asthmatic attacks come on gen- 
erally towards evening, and last from 1 to 3 
hours, causing great distress. Hay fever is 
not a very common complaint, and only at- 
tacks those persons who, from some peculiar- 
ity of constitution, are susceptible to the 
causes producing it. It is supposed to be 
caused by the inhalation of the pungent 
aroma of spring grass and hay, but the in- 
halation of the powder of ipecacuanha will 
also produce it in certain individuals. In 
places where the rose is largely cultivated, 
similar attacks sometimes occur; it is then 
called rose fever or rose catarrh. 

5592. Treatment of Hay Fever. 
The best treatment for hay fever is change of 
au', to the sea-side if possible. During the 
attacks, antispasmodics, such as sal-volatile, 
ether, or an emetic, if the patient is able 
to bear it, inhalations of hot steam medicated 
with creosote, carbolic acid, or turpentine, 
will be found useful. When the attack 
passes off" the general health should be im- 
proved by tonics, diet, &c. 

5593. Asthma. This disease is well 
known. It manifests itself in temporary fits 
of difficult breathing, is accompanied with 
wheezing, cough, a sense of suffocation, and 
constriction of the chest. The causes are, 
hereditary predisposition; cold and moist 
atmosphere ; sudden changes of temperature ; 
intense study ; suppression of long accus- 
tomed evacuations ; certain fevers ; irritation 
ofthe air cells of the lungs; irritation of the 
stomach, &c. TThen this disease is attended 
with expectoration, it is called humoral 
asthma; and when there is no discharge it 
is named dry asthma. It is remarkable that 
what will excite the disease in one patient 
will often prove a means of relieving it in 
another. 

5594. To Alleviate Asthma. For 
moderating the asthmatic paroxysm, no 
agent is more valuable in many cases than 
tobacco. A pipe often acts as a charm, and 
enables the patient to sleep and forget his 
troubles. In others, the wearing of a gauze 
veil over the face quite prevents the effects of 
the evil. It is most important to see that the 
bowels be freely opened at the commence- 
ment of an attack. 

5595. Expectorants. Medicines that 
promote the secretion of the tracheal and 
bronchial mucus. According to Dr. Good, 
true expectorants are those medicines which 
rather promote the separation of the viscid 
phlegm with which the bronchiae are loaded, 
than simply soften and dilute it ; though 
these are also treated as expectorants by 
many writers. ISTumerous articles of the ma- 
teria medica have been denominated expecto- 
rants, of which the following are the princi- 
pal : Tartarized antimony, ipecacuanha, 
squills, garlic, assafoetida, ammoniacum, the 
oily resins, the balsams of tolu and Peru, 
benzoin, styrax, benzoic acid, the fumes of 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS 



4:87 



vinegar, tar, and of many of the volatile oils, 
and the smoke of tobacco and stramonium. 
Chlorine and ammoniacal gases have also been 
called expectorants. Medicines of this class 
are commonly employed in pulmonary com- 
plaints and affections of the air-tubes, at- 
tended by a vitiated state of the mucus, or 
an imperfect performance of the natural func- 
tions of the secretory vessels. {Coolcij.) Of 
all classes of the materia medica, none are 
more uncertain in their action than expecto- 
rants. ( Pereira. ) The act of ejecting matter 
from the chest is called expectoration. 

5596. Bronchitis. An inflammation of 
the mucous lining of the bronchia, or smaller 
ramifications of the -windpipe. In its milder 
form it is commonly called a cold on the 
chest. The usual symptoms are hoarseness, 
dry cough, a slight degree of fever, followed 
by expectoration of mucus, at first thin, and 
afterwards thick and copious. In the severer 
forms there is more fever, cough, and oppres- 
sion at the chest, <fec. The generality of cases 
of bronchitis yield to small and ' repeated 
doses of ipecacuanha and antimonial diapho- 
retics, at the same time adopting a light diet, 
and keeping the bowels open with mild pur- 
gatives. 

5597. How to Cure a Cold. Dr. G. 
Johnson, Professor of Medicine in King's 
College, London, in a recent lecture gives the 
following cure for a cold : On the whole, the 
plan which combines the greatest degree of 
efficiency with universal applicability, con- 
sists in the use of a simple hot-air bath, which 
the patient can have in his own bed-room. 
All that is required is a tin spirit lamp, with 
a sufficiently large wick, and holding suffi- 
cient spirit to burn for half an hour. The 
patient sits undressed in a chair with a lamp 
between his feet, rather than under the chair, 
care being taken to avoid setting fire to the 
blankets, of which an attendant takes two 
or three, and folds them around the patient 
from his neck to the floor, so as to inclose 
him and the lamp, the hot air from which 
passes freely around the body. In from a 
quarter to half an hour there is usually a free 
perspiration, which may be kept up for a 
time by getting into bed between hot blan- 
kets. Headache, pain in the limbs, and other 
premonitory indications of a severe cold, may 
h& entirely removed in the course of half an 
hour by the action of the hot-air hath. 

Another simple and efficient mode of excit- 
ing the action of the skin consists in wrapping 
the undressed patient in a sheet wrung out of 
warm water, then over this folding two or 
three blankets. The patient may remain 
thus packed for an hour or two, until free 
perspiration has been excited. 

5598. Cough Pill. Extract of hyoscy- 
amus, balm of gilead buds, with pulverized ipe- 
cacuanha or lobelia, and Ijalsam of fir, of each 
i ounce ; oil of anise a few drops, to form into 
common sized pills. Dose, 1 or 2 pills, 3 or 
4 times daily. Dr. Beach says he endeavored 
for more than 25 years to ot3tain a medicine 
to fulfill the indications which are efiected in 
this coagh pill, particularly for ordinary colds 
and coughs ; and this admirably answers the 
intention, excelling all others. It allays the 
irritation of the mucas membrane, the bron- 
chial tubes, and the lungs, and will be found 



exceedingly valuable in deep-seated coughs 
and all diseases of the chest. 

5599. To Cure a Troublesome Cough, 
2 or 3 table-spoonfuls of linseed, a small 
bunch of horehound ; boil to a jelly, and 
strain. Add k pound sugar candy, J pound 
honey, \ pound loaf sugar. First boil the 
horehound in 1 quart water, then add the 
strained linseed and the other articles. Sim- 
mer for 2 hours. When cold, add of chloro- 
dyne, 3 table-spoonfuls. Bottle it and cork 
tight. A small quantity of spirits of wine or 
brandy to keep it. "When the cough is trou- 
blesome, take a table-spoonful. This is an. 
excellent remedy. 

5600. Pulmonary Syrup. Blood-root., 
boneset, slippery elm bark, coltsfoot, elecam- 
pane, of each 2 ounces ; white root, spikenard 
root, of each 4 ounces ; comfrey root, poplar 
bark, of each 1 ounce; lobelia, horehound,. 
snake-root, of each i ounce. Pour upon 
them 2 quarts of boiling water ; stir well,, 
add 1 pound molasses, and, when cool, 1 quart 
Holland gin. It is one of the best remedies 
for asthma, coughs, hoarseness, &c. A table- 
spoonful every hour, or a wine-glassful 3 
times a day. 

5601. Piilmonary Balsam. Hore- 
hound plant, comfrey root, blood root, ele- 
campane root, wild cherry bark, spikenard 
root, penny-royal plant, of each 4 ounces. 
Pour 3 quarts boiling water upon them; in- 
fuse for 3 hours ; then heat the water again,, 
and pour it upon the plants to infuse 5 or 6 
hours. Sweeten with sugar candy. It is 
very serviceable in diseases of the lungs, 
chronic coughs ; it removes constriction of 
the chest by promoting expectoration. Take 
half a small tea-cupful 3 or 4 times a day, or 
oftener if necessary. 

5602. Blood-Root Syrup. Bruised 
blood-root, 2^ ounces ; lobelia, |- ounce ; white 
sugar, 1|- ounces; water, I5 pints; gently 
simmer half an hour, till it thickens; when 
cool, add a tea-spoonful of paregoric elixir. 
Take a table-spoonful occasionally; for a child^ 
a tea-spoonful or less. This syrup is very 
valuable in chest complaints, bronchial affec- 
tions, coughs, and difficult breathing. 

5603. Cough Syrup. Tincture of lo- 
belia, 1 ounce; Iceland moss, 2 ounces; white 
poppy capsules, bruised, 2 ounces ; pearl bar- 
ley, 2 table-spoonfuls; water, 2 quarts; mo- 
lasses, 2 ounces. Boil down to 3 pints, and 
strain. Dissolve in it from 4 to 8 ounces of 
sugar candy. It effectually allays a tickling 
cough. A table-spoonful when the cough is 
troublesome. It does not constipate, like 
laudanum and paregoric. 

5604. Cough Remedy. Take lobelia 
herb, horehound, boneset, of each 1 ounce; 
comfrey root, spikenard, St. Johns' wort, 
poppy capsules, of each i ounce. Infuse in 3 
pints boiling water for 3 hours. Strain and 
add ^ pound loaf sugar boiled to a syrup. 
Add a wine-glassful of best rum, A table- 
spoonful is a dose. This is a valuable receipt 
for cough, hoarseness, &q. 

5605. To Cure a Cold with a Cough. 
Make a decoction of the leaves of the pine 
tree, and sweeten with loaf sugar. Drink it 
freely, warm, before going to bed, and cold, 
through the day. It is a certain cure in a 
short time. 



MEDICAL EECEIPTS. 



5606. Inlialation of Cubebs and Car- 
bolic Acid. Mix together ^ fluid ounce tinc- 
ture of cubebs and 20 drops liquid carbolic 
acid. Add the mixture to 5 pint hot water in 
an inhaler, and use every 3 or 4 hours, taking 
full respirations. A very efficient remedy in 
dry cough. 

5607. Cough. Mixture. Take muriate 
of morphia, |- grain ; glycerine, 2 fluid ounces. 
Mix. Dose, a tea-spoonful when the cough is 
troublesome. 

5608. Treatment for Ulcerated Sore 
Throat. Chlorate of potassa, in cases of 
putrid ulcerated sore throat, has been used 
with the most decisive success. Its internal 
application more efiectually allays thirst and 
abates fever than any other medicine; and, 
when applied as a gargle to inflamed or ulcer- 
ated sore throats, it has been found to disperse 
the inflammation and cleanse the ulcers more 
effectually than the infusion of rose-leaves 
with sulphuric acid, the gargle generally re- 
sorted to in those cases. The chlorate of po- 
tassa may be given in the dose of from 20 to 
30 grains in a half glass of water, 3 or 4 times 
a day. For the purpose of gargling the 
throat, 4 drachms of the chlorate may be 
added to J pint of water. {See No. 5637.) 

5609. Bell's Gargle for Syphilitic 
Sore Throat. Mix together 2 grains corro- 
sive sublimate; 1 ounce rectified spirits of 
wine ; 3 ounces tincture of Peruvian bark, and 
1 ounce each honey of roses and tincture of 
myrrh. 

5610. Atlee's Cough Mixture. 2 
grains acetate of morphia; 1 drachm each 
tincture of belladonna and tincture of nux- 
vomica ; 3 drachms each antimonial wine and 
syrup of ipecacuanha root; 1 ounce fluid ex- 
tract of wild cheny bark, and 2 ounces syrup 
of balsam of tolu. A tea-spoonful 4 times a 
day relieves chronic or hacking cough. 

5611. Hope's Cough Mixture. 2 oun- 
ces ammonia mixture ; 5 ounces camphor 
mixture ; 1 drachm tincture of digitalis (fox- 
glove); i ounce each sweet spirits of nitre 
and syrup of poppies ; 2 drachms solution of 
sulphate of morphia. A table-spoonful of 
this mixture is to be taken 4 times a day. 

5612. Treatment of Consumption. 
It seems at first sight as superfluous to state 
that in a disease of debility like consumption, 
patients should breathe pure air, as that they 
should have good nourishing food, but it is 
not so. Theoretically, the value of pure air 
is accepted ; but practically it is universally 
neglected. Healthful respiration has yet to 
be applied not only to every-day life, but in 
the treatment of disease. In ill health, and 
particularly diseases of the respiratory organs, 
the dictates of science and common sense are 
grossly outraged. If those persons who have 
consumption, or who have an inclination to it, 
would spend an hour every day in breathing 
pure air to the fullest extent to which their 
lungs are capable of taking it in, they would 
do more to prevent and cure this disease 
than it is possible to do by medication. 

5613. Inhalation of Tar for Consump- 
tion. Mix together 16 ounces liquid tar and 
1 fluid ounce liquor of potassa ; boil them for 
a few minutes in the open air; then let it sim- 
mer gently in an iron vessel over a spirit or 
other lamp in the chamber of the patient. 



This may, at first, excite a disposition to cough, 
but in a short time allays it, and removes any 
tendency to it. 

5614. Syrup of Blood-root. 1 ounce 
blood-root, i ounce aniseseed, and | ounce 
liquorice boiled in 2 pints water down to a 
pint, and then mixed with 4 ounces honey. 
This is highly recommended in consumptive 
cases attended with dyspeptic symptoms. 

5615. Blood-root for Consumption. 
25 to 40 drops saturated tincture of blood- 
root, taken 2 or 3 times a day, afford great 
relief. 

5616. Cigars for Pulmonary Con- 
sumption. Dissolve 1 part arseniate of soda 
in 30 parts water. Dip white unsized paper 
into the solution and form into small rolls, 3 
or 4 inches long. In pulmonary consump- 
tion inhale 4 or 5 whiffs as many times a day. 

5617. Goddard's Cure for Loss of 
Voice. Wet bibulous paper with a solution 
of 1 part arsenite of potash in 25 parts water ; 
dry and roll strips of 3 inches by 1 inch into 
cigarettes. The smoke to be inhaled, 8 or 10 
inspirations, 3 times a day. In connection 
with this use Y4- grain ammoniated mercury 
mixed with 10 drachms powdered sugar, ap- 
ply a little to the throat with the end of the 
finger. This is an excellent remedy. 

5618. To Cure Hoarseness. Saturated 
solution of iodine, 20 drops ; alcohol, 1 ounce ; 
5 drops of the above on a lump of loaf sugar 
every two hours will be found invaluable. 

5619. Cigars for Hoarseness, Asthma, 
&c. Soak thick unsized paper in a solution 
of saltpetre, and dry. Then brush over with 
tincture of cascarilla ; and, when nearly dry, 
with compound tincture of benzoin. In about 
half an hour, cut it into pieces 1^ by 4 inches, 
and roll into cigarettes. Excellent for hoarse- 
ness, loss of voice, and asthma. 

5620. Remedy for a Sudden Hoarse- 
ness. Mix 1 tea-spoonful of sweet spirits of 
nitre in a wine-glassful of water. This may 
be taken 2 or 3 times a day. 

5621. To Prevent Hoarseness. A 
celebrated singer states that the greatest 
benefit is derivable from taking, during 5 or 6 
days, twice a day, 5 or 6 drops of nitric acid 
in a glass of sugared water. If from use the 
acid loses its efficacy, the dose may be in- 
creased to 10 or 12 drops. 

5622. Snuffles. A troublesome com- 
plaint, to infants especially. The mucous 
membrane of the nose, through the taking of 
cold, being much swollen, the child is no 
longer able to breathe through its nose, as it 
was accustomed to do, but is compelled to 
breathe through the mouth. The difficult 
breathings are attended by a peculiar snuffling 
noise, which, in sleep, becomes a regular loud 
snore. It often interferes with its sucking at 
the breast ; as soon as it seizes the nipple a 
threatening suffocation compels it to desist. 
"While this complaint lasts^ the child may be 
partially fed with the spoon;' give it a very mild 
purgative ; bathe its legs frequently in warm 
water. Rub the nose with tallow, and apply 
a slippery elm poultice mixed with cream. 

5623. Influenza Mixture. Mix i ounce 
paregoric eUxir, 1 ounce syrup of squills, and 
2 drachms antimonial wine, with 6 ounces 
water. A tea-spoonful every 15 minutes until 
relieved. 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



489 



5624. Treatment of Asthma. Re- 
lief is often obtaiued by sinokiug a pipe of 
tobacco. To a person unaccustomed to smok- 
ing, a pipe of latakia, or other mild descrip- 
tion of tobacco ; this soon produces exhaus- 
tion, while, directly the feeling of nausea 
comes on, the attack ceases. This remedy is 
often very useful in preventing an attack 
Tvhen one is impending. Stnmger tobacco 
should be used by inveterate smokers. The 
fumes of burning filtering or blotting-paper, 
■which has been soaked in a saturated solution 
of nitre, and dried, afford much relief in some 
cases {see No. 5619) ; and, lastly, there are 
instances vrhere palliation is soonest obtained 
from a stimulant, as a glass of whiskey or 
brandy toddy, or a cup of very strong coffee. 
A mustard poultice over the front of the 
chest is often effective. Sometimes an attack 
may be arrested by taking off the patient's 
coat and vest, and exposing his back to the 
heat of a good fire. {See No. 5764.) 

5625. Croup. This is a dangerous 
disease. It is common to infancy, and rarely 
occurs to adults. It is an inflammation of 
the larynx, trachea, and contiguous tissues 
It derives its name from the peculiar sound of 
the voice and breathing, being of a whistling 
or crowing character, owing to a contraction 
of the glottis. It generally commences with 
a common cold and catarrh, hoarseness, 
cough, and increased difficulty of breathing, 
and the crowing already spoken of. It de- 
mands prompt treatment. 

5626. Treatment of Croup. The great 
object is to diminish the inflammation and 
irritation, and to relax the spasmodic state 
of the muscles in the parts diseased. The 
vessels in those parts are overcharged with 
blood, by an imperfect action of the exhalants. 
Place the feet in warm water, and give an 
emetic. {See No. 5169.) After bathing, rub 
the legs and feet well with flannel. Then 
give a vapor bath, if the patient can bear it. 
Repeat the process, if needful. The perspira- 
tion will be greater by applying to the feet 
and each side hot bricks, and wrapped in 
flannel saturated with vinegar and a little 
water. At the same time give an aperient, 
to produce a free action on the bowels. Ap- 
ply this tincture to the throat, viz.: ^ tea- 
spoonful of cayenne pepper, nearly a capful 
of vinegar; simmer 10 minutes, and strain. 
This tincture may be diluted with warm 
water, according to the strength of the pa- 
tient. Rub it well on the throat for 5 or 10 
minutes ; and next saturate a flannel with it, 
and apply it to the throat. This application 
tends to relieve the internally congested 
blood-vessels. Repeat the application as 
necessary. Mustard plasters may be applied 
to the feet, the upper part of the chest, and 
between the shoulders alternately. Even a 
large sponge dipped in as hot water as the 
hand can bear, squeezed half dry, and re- 
newed before it is cool, is of great advantage. 
It has been recommended to steep hops in 
hot vinegar, and the patient to inhale the 
vapor. Keep the atmosphere of the room 
at a regular temperature. Aid the perspi- 
ration by warm drinks, as balm tea, &c. 

5627. Remedy for Croup. Turpentine 
is a sovereign remedy for croup. Saturate 
a piece of flannel with it, and place the flan- 



nel on the throat and chest, and in very- 
severe cases 3 to 5 drops on a lump of sugar 
may be taken inwardly. Every family should 
have a bottle of turpentine on hand. 

5628. To Prevent a Return of Croup. 
To prevent a return of this disorder, keep the 
child warm, avoid wet feet, cold, damp, 
easterly winds, <fec. Children whose constitu- 
tions dispose them to croup ought to have 
their diet properly regulated, and be kept 
from all crude, raw, and trashy fruits. 

5629. Mumps. This is a specific con 
tagious inflammatory affection of the salivarjj 
glands, especially the largest, situated below 
the ear. It begins with slight feverish symp- 
toms, with pain and swelling, extending from 
beneath the ear along the neck to the chin. 
The attack generally reaches its height in 4 
days and then declines. The treatment is 
very simple — a mild diet, gentle laxatives, oc- 
casional hot fomentations, and wearing a 
piece of flannel around the throat. 

5630. Quinsy. Inflammation of the 
tonsils, or common inflammatory sore throat, 
commences with a slight feverish attack, with 
considerable pain and swelling of the tonsils, 
causing some difficulty in swallowing ; as the 
attack advances these symptoms become more 
intense, there is headache, thirst, a painful 
sense of tension, and acute darting pains in 
the ears. The attack is generally brought on 
by exposure to cold, and lasts from 5 to 7 
days, when it subsides naturally, or an ab- 
scess may form in the tonsil and burst, or the 
tonsil may remain enlarged, the inflammation 
subsiding. 

5631. Treatment of Q,uinsy. The 
patient should remain in a warm room, the 
diet chiefly milk and good broths, some cool- 
ing laxative and diaphoretic medicine may be 
given ; but the greatest relief will be found" in 
the frequent inhalation of the steam of hot 
water through an inhaler, or in the old-fash- 
ioned way, through the spout of a teapot. 
Relief will also be experienced from the fol- 
lowing treatment : Roast 3 or 4 large onions. 
Peel them quickly, and beat them flat with a 
rolling-pin. Immediately place them in a 
thin muslin bag that will reach from ear to 
ear, and about 3 inches deep. Apply it 
speedily as warm as possible to the throat. 
Keep it on day and night, changing it when 
the sti'ength of the onion appears to be ex- 
hausted, and substituting fresh ones. Flannel 
must be worn around the neck after the poul- 
tice is removed. 

5632. Treatment of Whooping 
Cough. The attack generally begins as a 
common cold, with slight feverish symptoms.' 
In 8 or 10 days the fever partially subsides; 
and the child gets attacks of convulsive 
coughing, accompanied by the peculiar whoop 
which gives the disease its name. The num- 
ber of attacks varies from 1 or 2 to 10, or even' 
15 in the 24 hours, according to the severity, 
of the disease. The child should be kept in a 
warm room. He ought to be clothed in flan- 
nel ; his diet should be light and nourishing, 
such as fish, milk, light puddings, and new-laid 
eggs. The following prescripti(m is strongly 
recommended by Dr. Valentine Mott: Hy- 
drocyanic acid, 6 drops; extract of belladonna, 
2 grains; paregoric elixir, 3 drachms; syrup 
of balsam of tolu, 1 ounce; and water, 3 oun- 



4:90 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



ces. Mix. 1 tea-spoonful 3 or 4 times daily. 
"When the severity of the disease has passed 
off, change of air will be found most useful; 
and if the child has become debihtated, tonics, 
■vnth. nutritious diet, should be given. This 
disease being very infectious, great care 
should be taken to prevent communication of 
any kind with houses where there are children 
who have not already had whooping-cough. 

5633. Syrup for "Whooping-Cough. 
Onions and garlics, sliced, of each 1 gill; stew 
them in 1 gill sweet oil, in a covered dish, to 
obtain the juices ; then strain and add honey, 
1 gill; paregoric and spirits of camphor, of 
each i ounce ; bottle and cork tight for use. 
Dose, for a child of 2 or 3 years, 1 tea-spoonful 
3 or 4 times daily, or whenever the cough is 
troublesome, increasing or lessening, accord- 
ing to age. 

5634. Atlee's Cure for Whooping- 
Cough. Take 1 drachm each powdered 
cochineal and strong aqua-ammonia; 1 ounce 
rectified spirits of wine. Mix. Dose for a 
child one year old, 10 drops in sweetened 
water 3 times a day. 

5635. Cure for "Whooping Cough. 
Pure carbonate of potassa, 1 scruple ; coch- 
ineal, 1 grain ; dissolve in 6 ounces of water 
sweetened with sugar. Dose for a child four 
years old, 1 tea-spo(mful 3 times a day, to be 
taken before meals. This is an excellent 
remedy. 

5636. Treatment of Diphtheria. 
Make two small bags to reach from ear to 
ear, and fill them with wood-ashes and salt ; 
dip them in hot water, and wring them out 
so that they will not drip, and apply them to 
the throat ; cover up the whole with a flannel 
cloth, and change them as often as they be- 
come cool, until the throat becomes irritated, 
near blistering. For children it is necessary 
to put flannel cloths between the ashes and 
the throat, to prevent blistering. TVhen the 
ashes have been on a sufficient time, take a 
wet flannel cloth and rub it with castile soap 
until it is covered with a thick lather ; dip it 
in hot water, and apply it to the throat, and 
change as they cool ; at the same time use a 
gargle made of 1 tea-spoonful each of cayenne 
pepper, salt, and molasses, in a tea-cupful of 
hot water, and when cool, add ^ as much 
cider vinegar, and gargle every 15 minutes, 
until the patient requires sleep. A gargle 
made of castile soap is good to be used part 
of the time. 

5637. Remedy for Diphtheria. Per- 
manganate of potassa has been administered 
with great success in cases of diphtheria. 
The proportions used for external use are 1 
drachm of the permanganate to a pint of wa- 
ter ; the dose for internal use, 1 tea-spoonful 
of a solution of 1 drachm in 1^ pints water. 
{U. S. Dis.) 

5638. Remedy for Diphtheria. A 
gentleman who has administered the follow- 
ing remedy for diphtheria, says that it has 
always proved efiectual : Take a tobacco 
pipe, place a live coal in the bowl, drop a 
little tar upon the coal, and let the patient 
draw smoke into the mouth, and discharge it 
through the nostrils. The remedy is safe and 
simple. 

5639. Roche's Remedy for Diphthe- 
ria. M. Roche recommends the following 



mode of treatment. The false membranes 
are first freely cauterized with lunar caustic, 
and injections then made every hour against 
the fauces with a solution of common salt, 
the strength of the solution being such as not 
to create nausea. Chlorate of potassa may be 
also given internally ; and tincture of iodine 
as a local application ; but M. Eoche considers 
that the irrigations with the solution of com- 
mon salt are the chief agents in the case. 

5640. Stiff Neck. Occasionally an at- 
tack is severe, and confinement to the house 
or bed, with wi-apping up of the neck with 
cotton- wadding or flannel, together with at- 
tention to the state of the digestive powers, 
is necessary. The diet in these cases must be 
regulated, and an aperient, such as the leni- 
tive electuary (see No. 5154), or castor oil, 
taken if required by the state of the bowels. 
If the stiffness be obstinate in its duration, it 
had better be rubbed with camphorated oil, or 
some other appropriate liniment. 

5641. Anthelmintics. Medicines that 
destroy worms. Among the principal an- 
thelmintics are santonin (worm-seed), calo- 
mel, tin powder, castor oil, oil of turpentine, 
cowhage, pinkroot, male-fern, and gamboge. 
A good plan for removing worms from chil- 
dren, is to give 3 to 5 grains of calomel in 
sugar, over-night, and a dose of castor oil the 
next morning. The motions should be ob- 
served, and if worms be found, the same 
treatment may be followed once a week, un- 
til they are wholly removed. 

5642. Worms. The woims found in 
the human body are mostly the ascarides, the 
thread worm, infesting the lower intestine, 
causing much itching and irritation about the 
anas. The teres, or long round worms, are 
generally seated in the small intestines, and 
stomach. The symptoms denoting the ex- 
istence of worms are common to the different 
species, viz.: indigestion, with a variable 
appetite ; foul tongue ; offensive breath ; hard, 
full, and tense belly, with occasional gripings 
and pains about the navel ; heat and itching 
sensation in the rectum and about the anus; 
the eyes heavy and dull ; itching of the nose ; 
short dry cough ; gi-inding of the teeth ; and 
starting during sleep, attended often with a 
slow fever. 

5643. Dr. Freeman's Vermifuge 
Oil. Oil of worm-seed, i ounce ; oil of tur- 
pentine, 2 drachms; castor oil, 1^ ounces; 
pinkroot, § ounce ; hydrastin, 10 grains; syrup 
of peppermint, 5 ounce. Dose, for a child 10 
years old, a tea-spoonful 3 times a day, I 
hour before each meal; if it purges too freely, 
give it less often. This is an excellent ver- 
mifuge, and never fails to expel worms when 
administered for that purpose. Where no 
worms are present, it answers the purpose of 
a tonic, correcting the condition of the mucous 
membrane of the stomach and bowels, and 
operating as a mild cathartic. 

5644. Spackman's Worm Syrup. 
Take 5 ounce pink root : 2 drachms rhubarb 
root; 1 drachm worm-seed; 5 drachm sa- 
vine leaves ; 2 drachms Colombo root, and 
1 drachm cardamom seeds. Infuse these in» 
gredients in 5 pint boiling water in a covered 
vessel ; when cool, add 5 pint molasses and 
a table-spoonful brandy. Dose for a child 1 
year old, 2 tea-spoonfuls 3 times a day. 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



4=9X 



5645. Remedy for Worms. Take 6 

f rains santoniu; 2 grains powdered gamboge; 
grains calomel; and 12 grains powdered 
■white sugar. Make into 6 powders. Give 1 
powder 3 times a day for a child one year old, 
and a dose of castor oil the day after taking 
the powders. 

5646. Oil of Worm-seed Mixture. 
Take I5 fluid drachms oil of worm-seed, 3 
ounces castor oil, and 10 drops oil of anise ; 
mix them together, and add 1 fluid ounce 
aromatic syrup of rhubarb. Shake well 
before using. Dose for a child of 2 years, 
1 tea-spoonful night and morning. 

5647. A Simple and Safe Vermifuge. 
Powdered rust of iron is a good vermifuge. 
It expels the worms and strengthens the con- 
stitution. To a child 6 years old from 10 to 
40 grains may be given. An adult may take 
i ounce or more. It may be given in mo- 
lasses or in beer. Dr. Rush says that he 
knows of no safer and more certain remedy 
than this simple preparation of iron. It 
should always be followed by an aperient. 

5648. Worm Pills. Ethereal extract 
of male-fern, 30 drops ; extract of dandelion, 
1 drachm ; powdered gum enough to make 30 
pills. Dose, from 6 to 20 ; followed half an hour 
later by a strong dose of castor oil. 

5649. Tape- Worm. The common 
male-fern root is a certain remedy for the 
tape- worm. 2 or 3 drachm^ of the powdered 
root to be taken in the morning, no supper 
having been taken the night before. It gen- 
erally sickens a little. A brisk purgative is 
to be given a few hours after, which some- 
times brings off the worm entire ; if not, the 
same course must be followed at due inter- 
vals. For the success of this remedy, the 
root should be recently gathered; as, after 
being kept long in the stores, its activity is 
diminished or destroyed. 

5650. Dowler's Treatment of Tape- 
Worm. Dr. Dowler expelled a tape-worm 
135 feet long by prescribing the continued 
use of eim-bark. He ordered the bark to be 
chewed and swallowed in moderate quan- 
tities. 

5651. Beach's Treatment of Tape- 
Worm. Dr. Beach eflectually cured a 
patient who had been tormented with a tape- 
•worm for 25 years. His treatment was as 
follows : Cowhage stripped from the pod, a 
small tea-spoonful 3 times a day ; to be taken, 
fasting, in a little arrow-root jelly; then oc- 
casionally a purgative of mandrake. In con- 
nection with this, eat freely of garlic and 
fine common salt. This treatment is to be 
continued until the tape- worm is killed or so 
sickened that it will lose its hold on the bow- 
els, when it will be expelled entire. "When 
once the tape- worm begins to pass the bow- 
els, care must be taken not to break it off, 
for it will then grow again ; it has this pe- 
culiar property. 

5652. Diarrhea. The following excel- 
lent remarks on this disease are extracted 
from Dr. Hall's Journal of Health : Cholera 
is nothing more than exaggerated diarrhea. 
It may be well for travelers to know that the 
first, the most important, and the most indis- 
pensable item in the arrest and cure of loose- 
ness of the bowels, is absolute quietude on a 
bed ; nature herself always prompts this by 



disinclining us to locomotion. The next thing 
is, to eat nothing but common rice, parched 
like coffee, and then boiled, and taken with a 
little salt and butter. Drink little or no liquid 
of any kind. Bits of ice may be eaten and 
swallowed at will. Every step taken in diar- 
rhea, every spoonful of liquid, only aggra- 
vates the disease. If locomotion is compul- 
sory, the misfortune of the necessity may be 
lessened by having a stout piece of woolen 
flannel bound tightly round the abdomen, sd 
as to be doubled in front, and kept well in its 
place. In the practice of many years, we 
have never failed to notice a gratifying result 
to follow these observances. 

5653. Velpeau's Remedy for Diar- 
rhea and Cholera Morbus. Take 1 ounce 
each tincture of opium, paregoric elixir, and 
tincture of rhubarb; 10 drachms essence of 
peppermint ; and 6 drachms tincture of cap- 
sicum. This is the original receipt for this 
celebrated remedy. Dose for an adult, a tea- 
spoonful in ^ a wine-glass sweetened wa- 
ter; and, if required, half a dose after each 
loose evacuation. 

5654. Diarrhea Tincture. Compound 
tincture of myrrh, 6 ounces ; tincture of rhu- 
barb, and spirits of lavender, of each 5 oun- 
ces; tincture of opium, 3 ounces; oils of 
anise and cinnamon, with gum camphor and 
tartaric acid, of each ^ ounce. Mix. Dose, 
1 tea-spoonful in a little warm water sweeten- 
ed with loaf sugar ; repeat after each passage. 
This is a magic remedy. 

5655. Chlorodyiie Mixture. Shake 
together 2| fluid drachms each chlorodyne and 
rectified spirit ; add 1 fluid ounce syrup, and 
shake ao:ain well ; then add a little at a time, 
with brisk agitation, 4 fluid ounces distilled 
water and 3 fluid drachms mucilage. Dose, 
1 to 2 table-spoonfuls in diarrhea, cholera, &Q,. 
Shake well before using. 

5656. Goddard's Diarrhea Remedy. 
Dr. Paul Goddard gives the following remedy: 
Take ^ ounce tincture of catechu, 2 drachms 
each tincture of opium and tincture of cam- 
phor, and 1 drachm aromatic spirits of ammo- 
nia. 40 drops every hour will afford speedy 
relief. 

5657. Remedy for Diarrhea. Tinc- 
ture of opium, spirits of camphor, essence of 
peppermint, ethereal tincture of capiscum, of 
each 3 ounce ; syrup of kino, 1 ounce ; neu- 
tralizing cordial, 2* ounces {see Xo. 5G33); 
brandy, 2 ounces. Mix. Dose, one table- 
spoonM, may be given every twenty minutes 
if the case is urgent. In dysentery give 1 
table-spoonful 3 times a day. This is an ex. 
cellent remedy. 

5658. Blackberry Cordial. To 1 quart 
blackbeiTy juice, add 1 pound white sugar, 1 
table-spoonful each cloves, allspice, cinna- 
mon, and nutmeg. Boil all together 15 min- 
utes, add a wine-glass of whiskey, brandy, or 
rum. Bottle while hot, cork tight and seal. 
This is almost a specific in diarrhea. Dose is 
1 wine-glassful for an adult, half that quanti- 
ty for a child ; will often cure diarrhea. It 
can be taken 3 or 4 times a day if the case is 
severe. 

5659. Remedy for Summer Com- 
plaint. A tea made of the seeds of the sun- 
flower, roasted like coffee berries, is an ad- 
mirable remedy for all species of summer 



4=92 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



complaint, i pint of the seed is sufficient. 
It should be remembered, however, that se- 
rious results often follow the too sudden stop- 
page of diarrhea by astringents, and with this, 
as all remedies of a similar nature, caution 
should be used. 

5660. Remedy for Bilious Diarrhea. 
Infuse i ounce Angostura bark for 2 hours in 1 
pint boiling water, and strain ; is a remedy for 
bilious diarrhea, especially in southern lati- 
tudes. 

5661. Treatment of Diarrhea in In- 
fants. Dr. Smith recommends the following 
prescriptions, if the bowels are rather loose, 
with dark, slimy, offensive stools. Tincture 
of opium, 8 minims; castor oil, 1 drachm; 
syrup of ginger and mucilage of acacia, each 
1 ounce. A tea-spoonful 3 times daily. In 
the screaming fits, accompanied by constipa- 
tion, this combination of castor- oil with laud- 
anum is very valuable. (Med. li'eios.) 

5662. Treatment of Cholera. The 
following excellent du'ections are given for 
the treatment of cholera by Dr. Pratt : For 
the stage of diarrhea. This may come on 
insidiously, painless, and hence not alarming, 
but should be met promptly. The remedy is 
the cholera mixture, so called, consisting of 
equal parts of laudanum, tincture of rhubarb, 
and spirits of camphor. Begin with 30 drops, 
taken clear and unmixed, with a little sugar 
placed in the mouth afterward. Repeat the 
dose after every evacuation, increasing it if 
the case becomes urgent to 60 drops (a tea- 
spoonful), or 90 drops if necessary. If the 
diarrhea is not controlled by this means, an 
injection of from 30 to 90 drops laudanum, in 
a table-spoonful of starch, will prove a valua- 
ble help. This may be often repeated. If 
the diarrhea ceases, do not entirely intermit 
the medicine, but give in gradually diminish- 
ed doses, every 1 or 2 hours, for a period of 
12 or even 24 hours. 

5663. Treatment for the Vomiting 
Stage. Dr. Pratt's remedy is laudanum, 
tincture of capsicum, tincture of ginger, and 
tincture of cardamom seeds, equal parts ; to 
be given from 40 to 60 drops undiluted, and 
followed by sugar, after every fit of vomiting; 
taking care to give it as soon as the fit ceases, 
when it will be more likely to be retained. 
An excellent assistant to this is a large mus- 
tard poultice applied to the abdomen. 

5664. Treatment for the Stage of 
Malignancy^. According to Dr. Pratt, the 
only remedy is stimulants, especially brandy, 
which must be given with great freedom, 
from 2 to 4 tea-spoonfuls every half or even 
quarter hour, till heat returns, and pulse and 
sensibility of extremities are restored. It is 
always to be given undiluted. Alcohol, or 
other spirits, will answer the purpose, if 
brandy is not to be had. It will be necessary 
to combine with this, artificial heat, bottles 
of hot water to the body and extremities, 
friction of the limbs (which no one need fear 
to apply), and mustard, perhaps, to the feet 
and hands, stomach and limbs. Remember 
that boldness, to the verge of rashness, is bet- 
ter than excess of caution, and tbat no dan- 
ger is to be apprehended from any of these 
remedies so long as the symptoms for which 
they are given are uncontrolled. The use of 
cold water must be strictly forbidden, except 



merely to gargle the throat; a very small 
quantity, swallowed, will bring on the diar. 
rhea after it has been stopped for hours. A 
little water of gum-arabic may be allowed, a 
tea-spoonful at a time ; or, perhaps, lumps of 
ice miffht be taken with safety. For the 
typhoid fever, which often follows an attack, 
chamomile or sage tea, and diaphoretic (see 
No. 5134) treatment, will be all that is need- 
ed, beside a moderate use of stimulants, for 
convalescence. 

5665. Cholera Preventive. A Bur- 
gundy-pitch plaster worn over the region of 
the stomach during the prevalence of the 
disease. It should be warmed a little before 
it is put on, the person standing erect when 
it is applied, so that the plaster shall not in- 
terfere with the motions of the body. It is 
asserted that a British regiment supplied 
with such plasters lost only five men dur- 
ing a severe visitation of cholera, and these had 
refused to wear then. The efficacy of this 
preventive is also corroborated by other well- 
authenticated evidence. 

5666. Neutralizing Mixture. Pow- 
dered rhubarb, 3 scruples; saleratus, or 
crude bicarbonate of potash, 3 scruples ; pow- 
dered peppermint plant, 3 scruples ; boiling 
water, 5 pint; decoction of aniseed, i pint. 
Mix. Strain, sweeten with sugar, and add 
3 table-spoonfuls of brandy. Take 1 or 2 
table-spoonfuls as often as the symptoms re- 
quire it. For children, a less dose. Yery 
valuable in cholera, bowel complaints of chil- 
dren, laxity of the bowels, flux, &c. 

5667. Spackman's Cholera Mixture. 
Take 1 ounce gum camphor ; 2 ounces gum 
kino; ^ ounce gum catechu; 2 ounces 
ground cinnamon ; 1 ounce ground cloves ; 
2 drachms African capsicums. Moisten these 
with brandy and digest for 48 hours. Dis- 
place (see Xo. 41) 18 ounces ; then add 20 
drachms tincture of opium and 1 ounce 
chloroform. Dose for an adult, 60 drops after 
every passage. 

5668. Brown's Cholera Mixture. 
Mix together 1 ounce essence of Jamaica gin- 
ger ; 2 ounces each camphorated tincture of 
opium and aromatic spirits of ammonia; and 
1 ounce spirits of camphor. Dose, a tea- 
spooonful every hour. 

5669. Troth's Cholera Mixture. Di- 
gest for 10 days 1 ounce each opium, cam- 
phor, oil of cloves, and African capsicums, 
in 1 pint Hoffman's anodyne (see No. 4749) ; 
administer 20 to 40 drops every 2 hours. 

5670. Austrian Cholera Specific. 
Take 20 grains sulphuric acid specific gravity 
1.500; 15 grains each sugar and gum; dis- 
tilled water sufficient to make the whole 
weigh exactly 1 ounce. 1 table-spoonful of 
the above mixture is to be taken in water on 
the first appearance of premonitory symptoms, 
followed by the free use of ice-cold water. A 
second dose h an hour after is generally suffi- 
cient to arrest the disease, but occasionally 4 
or 5 doses are required. A table-spoonful in 
a pint of cold water may afterwards be drunk 
as often as desired. When collapse sets in, 
double doses are to be given, and repeated 
after every attack of vomiting, until the sick- 
ness and cramp abate. After which, the doses 
are to be repeated until 5 or 6 doses are re- 
tained by the stomach. Quiet sleep or drow- 



MEDICAL IlECEIPTS. 



493 



siness snould not be interfered witli. The 
free use of cold "^ater or acidulated "water is 
to be allowed until perspiration sets in and 
the warmth of the body returns. The use of 
warm drinks, wine, spirits, &c., are to be 
carefully avoided as so much poison. The 
above was adopted by the Austrian Govern- 
ment in 1849, after 18 years' successful trial. 

5671. Homceopathic Cholera Pre- 
ventive. Dissolve 1 drachm camphor in 6 
drachms rectified spirit, and preserve it in a 
well-corked bottle. Dose, 2 drops on a lump 
of su^ar 2 or 3 times a day. 

5672. Homoeopathic Cholera Remedy. 
Repeat the dose of the mixture in foreg:oing 
receipt every 10 or 15 minutes, followed by 
draughts of ice-cold water until the symp- 
toms abate. 

5673. Use of Calomel in Cholera. 
"When cholera is prevailing, a single large, 
thin, painless, weakening action of the bowels 
may be cholera begun, and the business man 
should start for home in a vehicle instantly, 
calling on his physician on his way, and take 
him home with him ; or, if he cannot be found 
immediately, get into bed as soon as possible, 
dress up warm, eat ice if thirsty, bind a thick 
warm flannel tightly around the abdomen, 
and wait for his doctor's amval. A physician 
should be called always on the instant of an 
attack, but when it is impossible to procure 
his services within an hour, 10 or 20 grains of 
calomel should be taken in pill or powder, as 
a means of stopping the discharges, and of 
thus arresting the disease, until the physician 
arrives. Calomel is generally easy to be pro- 
cured, will remain on the stomach, from its 
heaviness, when even cold water is ejected as 
soon as swallowed, and is the most certain of 
all medicines known to stimulate the liver to 
action, this want of action being the funda- 
mental cause of the disease. {Hall.) 

5674. Cholera Tincture. Tinctures of 
rhubarb, cayenne, opium, and spmts of cam- 
phor, with essence of peppermint, equal parts 
of each, and each as strong as can be made. 
Dose, from 5 to 30 drops, or even to 60, and 
repeat until relief is obtained, every 5 to 30 
minutes. Many lives have been saved by the 
timely use of this valuable medicine. 

5675. Treatment of Dysentery. A 
slight attack will often yield to the employ- 
ment of a dose of castor oil ; warm fomenta- 
tions or mustard poultices being applied over 
the belly ; the patient being confined to bed, 
and only allowed to partake of food the most 
simple in its nature, that is, farinaceous food, 
cream, or milk (with one-third of lime-water, 
if requisite), thin broths, (fee. Perfect rest in 
the horizontal posture is almost essential. 
A warm bath for 20 minutes, or a shorter 
time if the patient feels faint, will often give 
great rehef. Stimulants should be forbidden 
in mild cases; but where the patient is be- 
coming weakened by the disease, port wine, 
as the best stimulant in these cases, may be 
given in beef-tea, or alone. And the rule of 
little and often may be strictly observed. 
Early treatment is most important in dysen- 
tery, and therefore the medical man should be 
sent for without loss of time, in case the 
simple means recommended are inefiectual. 

5676. Indian Cure for Dysentery. 
In diseases of this kind, the Indians use the 



root and leaves of the blackberry bush, a de- 
coction of which in hot water, well boiled 
down, is taken in doses of a gill before each 
meal, and before retiring to bed. It is an al 
most infallible cure. 

5677. Simple Remedy for Dysentery. 
The following simple remedy has been known 
to cure the most obstinate and malignant 
forms of dysentery when all the ordinary 
methods were ineffectual: Take hot water, 1 
gill; vinegar, h pint; mix; then continue to 
add common salt as long as it will be dissolved, 
stirring and irritating it freely and frequently. 
Give for an adult 1 table-spoonful every hour 
until the bloody discharges cease, or until it 
operates freely on the bowels. The patient 
must remain in bed. 

5678. Antacids. Medicines that neu' 
tralize the acid of the stomach, and thus tend 
to remove heartburn, dyspepsia, and diarrhea. 
The principal antacids are the carbonates of 
potassa, soda, ammonia, lime, and magnesia. 
Ammonia is the most powerful, and when 
the acidity is conjoined with nausea and faint- 
ness, is the best; when great irritability of 
the coats of the stomach exist, potash is pre- 
ferable; when accompanied with diarrhea, 
carbonate of lime (prepared chalk); and 
when with costiveness, magnesia. The dose 
of the carbonates of potassa and soda in pow- 
der is half a tea-spoonful; of chalk, a tea- 
spoonful; of magnesia, a dessert-spoonful; and 
of carbonate of ammonia, 10 grains, or a tea- 
spoonful of the solution. All these are taken 
in water. 

5679. Dyspepsia. If a man wishes to 
get rid of dyspepsia, he must give his stomach 
and brain less to do. It will be of no service 
to follow any particular regimen — to live on 
chaff bread or any such stuff — to weigh his 
food, etc., so long as the brain is in a constant 
state of excitement. Let that have proper 
rest, and the stomach will perform its func- 
tions. But if he pass 10 or 12 hours a day in 
his office or counting-room, and take no ex- 
ercise, his stomach will inevitably become 
paralyzed ; and if he puts nothing into it but 
a cracker a day, it will not digest it. In 
many cases it is the brain that is the primary 
cause. Give that delicate organ some rest. 
Leave your business behind you when you go 
to your home. Do not sit down to your din- 
ner with your brows knit, and your mind 
absorbed in casting up interest accounts. 
iN'ever abridge the usual hours of sleep. Take 
more or less of exercise in the open air every 
day. Allow yourself some innocent recrea- 
tion. Eat moderately, slowh', and of just 
what you please. If any particular dish dis- 
agrees with you, however, never touch it or 
look at it. Do not imagine that you must 
live on rye bread or oat meal porridge; a 
reasonable quantity of nutritious food is es- 
sential to the mind as well as the body. 
Above all, banish all thoughts of the subject. 
If you have any treatises on dyspepsia, 
domestic medicines, etc., put them directly 
out of your reach. If you are constantly 
talking and thinking about dyspepsia, you 
will surely have it. Endeavor to forget that 
you have a stomach. Keep a clear conscience; 
live temperately, regularly, cleanly ; be indus-^ 
trious, too, but avoid excess in that, as in all 
other things. 



4^4r 



5680. Artificial Digestion. A London 
physician, Dr. Marcet, has announced a pro- 
cess by •wMch natural digestion is imitated by 
artificial means, and solid food may thereby 
be prepared for invalids. Dr. Marcet takes 58 
grains muriatic acid haviug a specific gravity 
of 1.1496; 15 grains of pepsin — ^the organic 
principle procured from the stomach of a pig 
or other animal. Diluted in a pint of water 
and added to a pound of raw meat, the whole 
is allowed to simmer over a water-bath at 
about the temperature of the body, 98° Fahr. 
TThen the meat is by this means sufficiently 
broken up, it is strained, and the acid neutral- 
ized by 81 grains of bicarbonate of soda. The 
product is of a most agreeable character, 
easily digested and vastly more nutritious 
than beef tea. Where pepsin cannot be ob- 
tained, the doctor has found strips of calves' 
stomach answer very well. 

5681. Dick's Cure for Dyspepsia. 
Mix together h ounce bicarbonate of soda ; 2 
drachms aromatic spirits of ammonia; 6 
drachms compound tincture of gentian; 6 
drachms tincture of henbane ; 2 drachms tinc- 
ture of ginger; 3 drops creosote; ^ ounce 
ginger syrup, and 3 ounces water. A table- 
spoonful taken after each meal will cause a 
speed V cure. 

5682. Dick's Dyspepsia Pills. Make 
the following ingredieuts into 40 pills: 2 
scruples each compound extract of colocynth, 
and compound rhubarb pill (see Xo. 4923) ; 1 
scruple blue mass {see Xo. 4919) ; 55 grains 
soap ; 1 drachm extract henbane ; 3 drops oil 
of cloves. Take 2 pills at bed-time. 

5683. Spackman's Anti-Dyspeptic 
Pills. Make into a mass, 6 drachms 24 grains 
powdered aloes ; 3 drachms 20 grains each 
gamboge, scaramony, and compound extract of 
colocynth ; 93 grains soap ; 15 drops each oil 
of caraway and oil of anise ; with 1 drachm 
water. Divide the mass into 15 parts, and 
make each part into 24 pills ; 384 pills alto- 
gether. A dose consists cf 3 pills. 

5684. Absorbents are medicines admin- 
istered to counteract acidity in the stomach or 
intestinal canal. In most cases, emetics and 
aperients are given previous to their bemg 
taken; they are carbonate of ammonia, in 
doses (;f from 5 grains to 1 scruple ; liquor of 
ammonia, 10 to 20 drops; aromatic spirit of 
ammonia, 20 to 30 drops ; lime water, 2 oun- 
ces, to 5 pint; magnesia, calcined, 20 to 40 
grains ; carbonate of magnesia, ^ to 2 drachms ; 
carbonate of potassa, 10 grains to i drachm ; 
carbonate of soda, 10 grains to ^ drachm; 
soda water, h pint. (See Xo. 5678.) 

5685. To Correct Acidity of tlie 
Stomacb. The neutralizing mixture (see Xo. 
5636) is very effectual in curing this disorder. 
Or, 10 gi-ains of calumba, powdered, and 10 
grains cf magnesia, well mixed. Magnesia 
and a little finely powdered chalk will be of 
great service. 

5686. Ilemedy for Acidity of Stom- 
ach. This is a common tL-ymptom cf weak or 
disordered digestion, and should be treated 
with small doses 3 or 4 times daily of the car- 
bonate or bicarbonate of potassa, soda, or 
ammonia; or of sal-volatile or ammonia wa- 
ter, to which some tonic bitter may be added. 
Diet should be light and nutritious, with as 
much out-door exercise as possible. The 



MEDICAL BECEIFTS. 



bowels should be kept regular by the occft 
sional use of some mild aperient. 

5687. Carminatives. Medicines that 
allay flatulency and spasmodic pains. Among 
the principal carminatives are aniseed, cara- 
way-seed, cardamoms, cassia, cinnamon, gin- 
ger, peppermint and the peppers; including 
ardent spirits and most aromatic essences and 
tinctures. 

5688. Flatulency in Children. It 
often arises from a mother's impure milk; 
when it is so she must take the neutralizing 
mixture (see Xo. 5663) ; and if not effectual, 
administer it to the infant. Also foment the 
stomach with warm brandy and water, to 
which add a little salt. Give also the carmin- 
ative drops. (See Xo. 5689.) 

5689. Carminative Drops, for expelling 
wind. Angelica, 2 ounces; lady's slipper, 1 
ounce ; sweet flag, ^ ounce ; anise, 1 ounce!; 
fennel seed, i ounce ; catnip flowers, 1 ounce'; 
mother- wort, 1 ounce; pleurisy root, 2 oun- 
ces. Infuse in a pint of spirits of wine for 3 
or 4 days, often shaking, keeping it in a warm 
place ; then add a pint of water and a table- 
spoonful of tincture of cayenne. Excellent 
in flatulency, colic, nervous affections, pro- 
moting perspiration and refreshing sleep. 

5690. Heartburn. Anxiety and pain 
about the region of the stomach, generally 
attended by a sense of gnawing and heat; 
hence called heartburn. Faintness, nausea, 
and eructation of a thin, acidulous, watery 
liquid, especially in the morning, are common 
symptoms of this complaint. The usual 
causes of heartburn are excess in eating or 
drinking, the use of improper food, and seden- 
tary habits. A good remedy is a tea-spoonful 
of carbonate of magnesia, or carbonate of 
soda, in a glass of peppermint or cinnamon 
water, to which a little powdered ginger may 
be added with advantage. This dose may be 
taken 2 or 3 times daily until the disease is 
removed. Articles of food that easily under- 
go fermentation should at the same time be 
avoided, and a dry diet had recourse to as 
much as possible. Soda-water, toast and wa- 
ter, and weak spirits and water, are the most 
suitable beverages in this complaint. 

5691. To Cure "Water-Brash. When 
there is a tendency to confined bowels, some 
aperient must be administered occasionally un- 
til proper dieting, &c., renders it unnecessary. 
Fluid magnesia, or the lenitive electuary (see 
Xo. 5154), will probably be all that is neces- 
sary. The diet must be carefully attended to 
in all cases; and as the disorder often arises 
from the use of innutritions or unwholesome 
food, the adoption of a more varied and gener- 
ous diet, including a sufficient proportion of 
meat, is essential to the permanent success of 
any remedy. 

5692. Treatment of Colic. Let it be 
remembered that colic may occur as the pre- 
lude to an inflammatory attack ; and that if 
neglected or nnskillfully treated, such ten- 
dency is very considerably increased. In the 
treatment of colic, very great advantage re- 
sults from the external application of warmth; 
hot fomentations, bags of hot salt or bran, or 
flannel wrung out of turpentine, or mustard 
poultices, should be diligently employed. 
While these means are being used, a dose of 
laxative medicine should be administered; 



MEDICAL liECEIFTS. 



495 



for, as fti the great majority of cases of colic 
the pain depends on some obstruction in the 
bowels — very likely on the presence in them 
of some deleterious and indigestible food, &c. 
—it is of essential importance that free pas- 
sage should be obtained as speedily as possible, 
A full dose (1^ ounces) castor oil, is a safe and 
good medicine for the purpose ; to be repeated 
in 2 or 3 hours if there has been no action of 
the bowels. If the medical man has arrived 
meanwhile, he will very likely order some 
stronger medicine, as, if the oil has not acted, 
steps must be taken to clear the bowels as 
soon as possible. If the pain is very severe, 
a tea-spoonful of powdered ginger, or a little 
cayenne pepper may be added to the oil or 
taken after it. "When free action of the bow- 
els is obtained, the pain soon ceases. After 
such attacks great caution is requisite in the 
matter of diet for some time ; only the plain- 
est and most digestible food being taken. 

5693. Treatment of Lead or Painters' 
Colic. In cases of colic arising from poison- 
ing by lead, called lead colic, so often expe- 
rienced by plumbers, painters, workers in shot 
towers, (fee, the great object is to obtain free 
action of the bowels, as in common colic ; 
and medical assistance should be obtained at 
once. Of course every care should be taken 
to prevent any further entrance of lead into 
the system. In order to obviate the occur- 
rence of lead-poisoning in those who are of 
necessity exposed in a greater or less degree 
to its influence, frequent ablutions of the 
hands and surface of the body should be 
practiced; while sulphuric acid lemonade 
should be used as a beverage. 

5694. Fainting Fits. If a person faints, 
let him be placed on his back until he comes 
to. Do nothing else. He has fainted be- 
cause the heart has stopped beating. It will 
come to of itself as soon as nature desires it, 
and it will be easier to propel the blood in a 
horizontal direction, when lying down, than 
perpendicularly to the head, chest, and arms, 
when sitting up. And yet the very first 
effort of bystanders when a person is observ- 
ed to have fainted, is to place him on a chair, 
or lift up his head. {Hall). If the patient 
be a female, place her on her back, with the 
head low, loosen all clothes about the neck 
and chest, sprinkle cold water on the face, 
and apply smelling salts to the nostrils. 
"WTien the patient can swallow, give some 
cold water, with 20 or 30 drops of sal- volatile, 
or a little brandy. 

5695. Fits. If a person falls in a fit, let 
him remain on the ground, provided his face 
he pale ; for should it be fainting or tempo- 
rary suspension of the heart's action, you 
may cause death by raising him upright, or 
by bleeding; but if the face de red or dark 
colored, raise him on his seat, throw cold wa- 
ter on his head immediately, ani send for a 
surgeon, and get a vein opened, or fatal pres- 
sure on the brain may ensue. 

5696. Core for Cramps. Mix 2 
drachms chloroform, 1 drachm oil of cam- 
phor, 6 drachms mucilage of gum-arabic, and 
li grains acetate of morphia. Dose, 40 drops 
every 2 hours. 

5697. Remedy for Dropsy and Liver 
Affections. Mix 8 ounces infusion of dan- 
delion (taraxacum) ; k ounce extract of dan- 



delion; 2 drachms carbonate of soda; 6 
drachms tartrate of potassa; 8 drachms tine 
ture of rhubarb; Ik ounces tincture of henbane. 
Dose, a table-spoonful every 2 hours. 

5698. Cure for Liver Complaint. 
Take i ounce each extract of taraxacum 
(dandelion) and tartrate of potassa; 45 grains 
carbonate of soda ; 2 ounce sweet tincture of 
rhubarb, and 6 ounces spring water. Dose, 
a tea-spoonful 3 times a day. 

5699. Remedy for Liver Complaint. 
Mix 5 ounce each fluid extract of rhubarb 
and of senna with 4 ounces water. Then 
add k ounce extract of taraxacum ; 3 drachma 
acetate of potassa ; 5 ounce compound tinc- 
ture of gentian ; and 1 drachm muriatic ether. 
Dose, a table-spoonful 3 times a day. 

5700. Dandelion Pills. Take 30 grains 
extract of dandelion, and 6 grains calomel ; 
make into 10 pills. 2 taken 3 times a day are 
a useful remedy for dropsy in the belly aris- 
ing from disorder of the liver. (See No. 
5697.) 

5701. Infusion of Dandelion. Steep 
2 ounces bruised dandelion root in 1 pint boil- 
ing water. After 24 hours strain. 2 table- 
spoonfuls 4 times a day is a remedy for dropsy. 
(See Xo. 5697.) 

5702. Sick Headache. This usually 
proceeds from acidity and overloading the 
stomach. IVTien it is not from improper eat- 
ing, all that is necessary is to soak the feet in 
hot water for 15 minutes, drink some warm 
herb tea, retire to bed, and take a good sweat 
for about an hour. This will give relief If 
the trouble arises from over-eating, relief may 
be obtained by taking an emetic. (See No. 
5169.) 

5703. Periodical Sick Headache. 
Those who are afilicted periodically with 
sick headache, accompanied with nausea and 
sometimes with vomiting, may obtain relief 
by soaking the feet in hot water, and using 
the emetic directed in ISTo. 5169. This treat- 
ment should be followed by taking the lenitive 
electuary. (See No. 5154.) 

5704. Nervous Headache may be re- 
lieved by using one of the evaporating lotions. 
(See No. 4843.) An application of the " Good 
Samaritan " is also very effectual. (See No. 
4858.) Any of the remedies under the head 
of neuralgia are also recommended for severe 
attacks. (See Nos. 5544, ^~c.) 

5705. To Relieve Nervous Headache. 
From 10 to 20 drops sal- volatile (aqua ammo- 
nia) in i wine-glass of water will frequently 
give relief; a dose of 10 drops, and repeated 
at intervals of 10 minutes, seldom fails. 

5706. Remedy for Sick Headache. 
It is stated that 2 tea-spoonfuls of finely pow- 
dered charcoal, drank in half a tumbler of 
water, will give immediate relief to the sick 
headache, when caused, as in most cases it is^ 
by too much acid on the stomach. This rem- 
edy has been highly recommended. (See also 
Antacids, No. 5678.) 

5707. Bisulphide of Carbon a Reme- 
dy for Headache. Dr. Kennion thus de- 
scribes the mode of application of this rem- 
edy : A small quantity of the solution ("about 
2 drachms) is poured upon cotton-wool, with 
which a small wide-mouthed glass-stoppered 
bottle is half filled. This, of course, absorbs 
the fluid; and, when the remedy has to b« 



4.96 



MEDICAL MECEIPTS. 



used, the mouth of the bottle is to he applied 
closely (so that none of the volatile vapor may 
escape) to the temple, or behind the ear, or as 
near as possible to the seat of pain, and so 
held for from 3 to 5 minutes. After it has 
been applied for a minute or two, a sensation 
is felt as if several leeches were biting the 
part; and, after a lapse of a few minutes 
more, the smarting and pain become rather 
severe, but subside almost immediately after 
the removal of the bottle. The effect of this 
application is generally immediate. {British 
Med. Journ.) 

5708. Simple Remedy for Piles. 
Take fresh white pine pitch in pills, from 
12 to 20 a day, and sit in a tub of cold water 
4 or 5 times a day, 30 minutes each time, for 
a month. A very obstinate case of piles was 
cured by this treatment. 

5709. Internal Remedy for Piles. 
Pulverize in a mortar and mix thoroughly, 
1 ounce each of cream of tartar, jalap, senna, 
flowers of sulphur, and golden seal, and h 
ounce saltpetre. Dose, a tea-spoonful 3 times 
a day. 

5710. External Remedy for Piles. Boil 
some of the inner bark of white oak in water, 
and strain ; evaporate to a thick extract. To 
^ pint of this extract, add k pint of oil ren- 
dered from old, strong bacon. Simmer to- 
gether till mixed, and let it cool. Apply with 
the finger inside the rectum every night and 
until cured. 

5711. Persulphate of Iron for Piles. 
An ointment made of I drachm persulphate 
of iron, and 1 ounce simple salve, has been 
found especially beneficial in cases of ulcera- 
ted hemorrhoid. Dr. Geo. S. Cartwright de- 
scribes a case of hemorrhoid in which there 
was an external tumor of the size of a large 
pea, protruding, at certain times, to the size 
of a walnut. He applied lead water freely to 
the part, with an application of this salve 
before the patient retired at night, and the 
effect was almost immediate, relieving the 
pain and cauterizing the part. The effect of 
this salve is permanent. The same physician 
occasionally uses the ointment with double 
the above proportion of the persulphate. 

5712. Treatment for Irregular Men- 
struation, or Monthly Flow. Where the 
flow is absent, or irregular. The treatment 
of cases of this kind should embrace every 
possible means of improving the general 
health, particularly the enjoyment of pure air, 
and the use of the shower or hip-bath ; mode- 
rate exercise, especially on horsebci-ck ; with a 
wholesome nutritious diet. The medical 
treatment must not be trifled with, as it re- 
quires considerable watching; it should 
therefore be carried out under the eye of a 
skillful physician. When the slightest ap- 
pearance of menstruation takes place, the 
patient should be kept as quiet as possible ; 
and, in order to encourage the flow, recourse 
should be had to the use of the warm hip- 
bath; indeed, very frequently it will be 
found that a hot hip-bath"| containing a hand- 
ful of the flowers of musta,rd, used every 
night for the week preceding the regular 
time for the flow to appear, and accompanied 
by a good rubbing with a rough towel of the 
hips and lower part of the front of the body, 
wdl greatly assist in bringing on the flow. 



5713. Treatment for Interrupted or 
Suppressed Menstruation. The same 
suggestions in the way of treatment apply as 
in i^o. 5712. When interruption has taken 
place suddenly, recourse should be had to the 
warm hip-bath, bed, and some warm drink, 
such as sherry and water, or a little brandy, 
or hot ginger water. When cessation for 
one or more periods has occurred, then it is 
specially important to favor, as much as pos- 
sible, its restoration by attention to those 
particulars of general treatment already ad- 
verted to. 

5714. Treatment of Excessive Men- 
struation. Those who are liable to this 
form of irregular menstruation should be 
careful in their diet, choosing a plain and nu- 
tritious one. They should attend to the 
function of the bowels, and maintain a hor- 
izontal posture from the time when the dis- 
charge commences till its cessation. In ad- 
dition, if the discharge, besides being copious, 
is continuous, recurring over and over again, 
it is necessary to have recourse to powerful 
remedies. When the discharge is so profuse 
as rapidly to reduce the patient's strength, 
still more, if by it, as has happened some- 
times, life be brought into peril, local means 
of arresting bleeding must also be adopted; 
foremost among these is the application of 
cold — cold clotlas placed over the lower part 
of the body, and to the groins. Injections of 
cold water may further be employed if the 
nurse or relatives are skilled in the use of the 
injecting instrument, but not otherwise. 

5715. Difacult or Painful Menstrua- 
tion. The most common form of this com- 
plaint is ranged under the head of neuralgia, 
for the violent pain with which it is accom- 
pauied bears a close resemblance to neuralgic 
pains experienced in other parts of the body. 
In such, if the affection is of long standing, 
the nervous system generally has probably 
sympathized, and headache, with hysteria 
and many other distressing symptoms, ac- 
company the menstrual disorder. Many 
cases of this nature are connected with 
marked constitutional derangement, more 
particularly with gout and rheumatism. For 
the relief to the extreme pain which accom- 
panies the complaint, soothing remedies 
are rendered indispensable, and the most 
suitable medical ones will be prescribed by 
the medical attendant. In his absence, or 
conjoined to the medicines, the warm hip- 
bath may be tried, followed by the application 
of mustard poultices, or flannel wrung out 
of hot water and sprinkled with tm-pentine, 
over the lower part of the back. In the gen- 
eral treatment, the greatest attention must 
be paid to diet and regimen. 

5716. Remedy for Suppressed Men- 
struation. Make into 12 pills, 12 grai- s 
sulphate of ii'on, 6 grains powdered aloes, and 
12 grains white turpentine. Dose, 1 at bed- 
time. (See Xo. 5441. J 

5717. Ashwell's Injection for Ob- 
structed Menstruation. Mix 1 to 2 fluid 
drachms liquor of ammonia with 1 pint of 
milk ; use thrice daily, commencing with the 
least quantity of ammonia. 

5718. Injection for Obstructed Men- 
struation. Take 1 fluid drachm liq^uor of 
ammonia, 1 ounce mucilage, and 9 fluid oun- 



MEDiCAL RECEIPTS. 



4:97 



ces water ; nse in the same way as the last 
receipt. 

5719. Pills for Suppressed Menstru- 
ation. Take dried sulphate of irou, 1 scru- 
ple ; powdered aloes, 2 scruples ; po-u-dered 
cloves, 5 grains ; Yenice turpentine, sufficient 
to make a mass, and divide into 20 pills. One 
pill 3 times a day. 

6720. To Relieve Vomiting During 
Pregnancy. Mix 2 ounces sweet tincture of 
rhubarb, and 1 ounce compound tiucture of 
gentian. Dose, a tea-spoonful 3 times a day. 

5721. To Cure Vomiting in Preg- 
nancy. Mix 1 drachm carbonate of magne- 
sia, k ounce tincture of Colombo, 63 ounces 
peppermint water. Take a table-spoonful 3 
times a day. 

5722. Citric Acid in After-pains. Dr. 
J. B. Chagnon recommends citric acid for the 
pains following labor, and declares that it has 
never failed in his hands. He gives 5 grains 
in 2 or 3 ounces of water every 5 hours. It 
acts as a nervine, and as a preventive of in- 
fl«.mmation. 

5723. Pills to Remove Obstructions 
in Females. Aloes and lobelia, 1 drachm 
each ; black cohosh, gum myrrh, tansy, uni- 
corn root, 1 ounce each ; cayenne, I ounce. 
Mix, and form into pills with solution of gum. 
These pills remove female obstructions, and 
are good for headaches, lowness of spirits, 
nervousness, and sallowness of the skin. 

5724. Female Regulating Pills. 
Aloes, red oxide of iron, white turpentine, 
1 ounce each. Melt the turpentine, and 
strain ; mix frell ; form into pills with muci- 
lage. Take 2 or 3 per day. 

5725. Alum Injection for Leucor- 
rh.cea. Compound solution of alum, 6 
drachms ; water, 1 quart. Mix, and use 
it lukewarm. 

5726. Lead Injection for Leucor- 
rhcea. Sugar of lead, 60 grains ; water, 1 
quart. Mix. 

5727. Catechu Injection for Leu- 
corrhcea. Catechu, 1 drachm ; myrrh, 1 
drachm ; lime-water, 12 ounces. Mix, and 
dilute with water. 

5728. Caustic Injection for Leucor- 
rhoea. Xitratc of silver, 35 grains ; water, 1 
quart. Mix. 

5729. Zinc Injection for Leucor- 
rhcea. Sulphate of zinc, 40 grains ; water, 
1 quart. Mix. 

5730. To Cure Sore Nipples. This 
painful aflfection of the breast, especially so 
during the period of nursing, may be cured 
as follows : Arrest the bleeding by a slight 
application of compound tincture of benzoin, 
carefully dry the parts with a soft muslin 
handkerchief; apply a solution of gutta- 
percha, so as to completely surround the 
nipple and cover all abrasions, giving it three 
or four coatings, allowing each to dry thor- 
oughly before repeating the application. Du- 
ring the act of suction, a boxwood shield, 
with calf s teat, should be used, and in the 
course of a few days all will be well. The 
solution of gutta-percha is prepared by dis- 
solving 1 drachm gutta percha in a bottle 
containing 3 drachms chloroform. The film 
rapidly formed by the evaporation of the 
chloroform is fiiTn, elastic, and harmless, and, 
should it rub off, is very easily replaced. The 



almost painless nature of the treatment, the 
effectual protection from the contact of the 
air and irritation of the infant's mouth re- 
commend it strongly to general use. 

5731. Hariand's Gonorrhoea Cure. 
Mix together Ih ounces powdered cubebs ; k 
ounce balsam copaiba; -J- ounce powdered 
gum-arabic ; and 3 ounces cinnamon water. 
A table-spoonful of the mixture to be takefn 
at intervals 8 times a day. 

5732. Hariand's Gonorrhoea Injec- 
tion. Mix 2 scruples Armenian bole, and 10 
grains sulphate of zinc, with 4 ounces water. 
Inject 3 or 4 times a day. 

5733. Goddard's Gonorrhoea Mixture. 
Take 2 drachms oil of cubebs ; 5 ounce bal- 
sam of copaiba ; 1 ounce each syrup of tolu 
and syrup of poppy; 2 drachms strong liquor 
of potassa ; 1 drachm oil of juniper ; and 2\ 
ounces peppermint water. A table-spoonful 3 
times a day. 

5734. "^ Goddard's Gonorrhoea Injec- 
tion. Mix 3 drachms solution of iodide of 
iron with 4 ounces spring water. Apply with 
a syringe 3 times a day. 

5735. Spackman's Copaiba Mixture. 
Mix together 2 drachms syrup of gum-arabic ; 
h ounce balsam of copaiba; 24 drops oil of 
cubebs ; 1 ounce syrup of balsam of tolu ; 5 
ounce each sweet spirits of nitre and com- 
pound tincture of opium; 20 drops tincture 
of opium; 3 drops oil of lavender, and 3 
drachms compound spirits of lavender. Dose, 
a table-spoonful 3 times a day. 

5736. Permanganate of Potassa in 
Gonorrhoea. Dr. John G. Eich has em- 
ployed this remedy with great success. He 
begins the treatment with a purgative, and 
then uses as an injection, 3 times a day, 6 
grains of permanganate of potassa dissolved in 
1 ounce water. 

5737. To Apply Caustic to the Ure- 
thra. A weak solution of nitrate of silver 
(2 or 3 grains in 1 ounce rose-water), may be 
used as an injection twice a day. Some pre- 
fer a stronger solution of 10 grains to the 
ounce, injected every 2 or 3 days. It may be 
also administered as an ointment of 10 to 20 
grains to the ounce, smeared on a bougie and 
introduced into the urethra. This is perhaps 
better for severer cases of gonorrhoea ; the in- 
jections answering the purpose for milder cases, 
and gleet. 

5738. Ricord's Gonorrhoea Injection. 
Mix 15 grains each sulphate of zinc and acetate 
of lead, with 65 ounces rose-water. Inject 3 
times a day. 

5739. Cure for Nocturnal Emissions. 
Mix 50 grains bromide of potassa with 25 
grains each aromatic powder and whito 
sugar. Make up into 12 powders, 1 to be 
taken 2 or 3 times a dav. 

5740. Remedy for Difficulty in Uri- 
nating. Mix together 1 scruple each oil of 
turpentine, extract of henbane, and soap. 
Make it into 12 pills, and administer 1 pill 3 
times a day. 

5 741 . To Relieve Spasm of the Blad- 
der. To relieve the spasm, place the patient 
in a hot bath immediately, and keep him there, 
supplying fresh hot water when required, 
until he is relieved, or he becomes at all faint 
or fatigued. Then put him into a bed which 
has previously been well wanned, and keep 



4r98 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



hot cloths, hot salt, hot bran, or hot tins ap- 
plied, to prevent a return of the pain if possi- 
ble ; and as the medical treatment is of great 
consequence, lose no time in summoning the 
medical man. 

5742. Remedy for Disease of tlie 
Kidneys. Boil 1 ounce pareka brava in 
3 pints of water until it is only 1 pint. Dose, 
a wine-glassful 3 times a day. 

5743. Remedy for incontinence of 
XJrine. Put 4 drops tincture of aconite root 
In a tumbler of water. Dose, a tea-spoonful 
every hour until relieved. 

5744. Remedy for Nocturnal Incon- 
tinence of Urine. Nocturnal incontinence 
of urine has been treated successfully by ad- 
ministering from 15 to 20 minims of tincture 
of belladonna 3 times daily. 

5745. Remedy for Incontinence of 
XJrine of Old People. The continued use 
of 1 to 6 drops tincture of iodine daily has 
proved a successful remedy. 

5746. Remedy for Spermatorrhoea. 
Gelseminum, I grain ; lupulin, 3 grains. To be 
taken each night on retiring. Grradually di- 
minish the dose as the patient shows signs of 
improvement. 

5747. Belladonna as a Remedy for 
Typhoid Fever. Dr. B. Kelly, of Dublin, 
has met with great success in the use of bel- 
ladonna in typhoid fever. "Within 24 hours 
after the first dose, he found delirium, <fec., 
vanish, succeeded by calm, natural sleep, 
clearness of intellect, and complete repose of 
the system, accompanied by regular evacua- 
tions. Dr. Lewis S. Pilcher, of the U. S. 
j!^dvy, reports equally successful results from 
the use of this drug. The amount and fre- 
quency of the dose will probably be under- 
stood by every physician, as the authorities 
above quoted do not specify these points. 

5748. Remedy for Festering "Wounds 
and Cancers. Professor Boettger recom- 
mends gun cotton, saturated with a solution 
of permanganate of potassa, pat up in the 
form of a poultice, and held over an open 
wound by a bandage, as the best disinfectant 
for bad odors that can be conveniently ap- 
plied. The strength of the solution of per- 
manganate, best adapted for the purpose, is 1 
part, by weight, of the dry permanganate, in 
100 parts water. Ordinary cotton cannot be 
taken, as it readily decomposes, but gun cot- 
ton is permanent, and not liable to explosion 
when in a moist state. 

5749. Treatment for Measles. In the 
treatment of the ordinary cases of measles 
occurring in children otherwise than delicate, 
little is necessary beyond attention to the 
temperature of the room, the amount of the 
bed-clothes, preventing the access of too 
strong a light, which affects the eyes, &q>. 
Great care should be taken that draughts of 
cold air are avoided, lest they might prove 
the cause of increase in the chest complaint, 
which generally attends the attack; and, 
while the room is not overheated, it must not, 
for the same reason, be allowed to be cool. 
It must be remembered that in measles, as in 
all fevers accompanied by an eruption, the 
patient will require a more abundant supply 
of blankets, &c., before the eruption appears, 
than after it. Indeed, afterwards, he gener- 
ally desires light clothing. The room should 



be well ventilated ; all excrements and dirty 
linen immediately removed. Disinfectants 
should be used. The sense of heat and dry- 
ness of the body, sometimes most distressing 
to the patient, can be much alleviated by 
washing the surface with soap and tepid 
water; too great exposure being avoided by 
one part of the body being cleansed, dried, 
and covered, before the rest is exposed. The 
feeling of tension of the hands and feet can be 
relieved by rubbing these parts with some 
greasy matter, such as lard or simple salve. 
All sources of annoyance or irritation, all 
noises, should be avoided, and thus sleep is 
promoted, a condition which most materially 
affects the welfare of the patient, sleep lessen- 
ing the fever and increasing the appetite. 
Food, light and nutritious, such as arrowi'oot, 
gruel, good beef-tea, milk, chicken, or veal 
broth, plain wine, jellies, &c., should be 
given at the usual hours. The quantity 
should be moderate, great care being taken 
that the digestion be not impaired by too 
large a quantity being taken. Should the 
patient be very weak, the food must be ad- 
ministered in small quantities at frequently 
repeated intervals. There is no stimulant so 
important as food. The prospect of recovery 
in all fevers is very greatly if not mainly de- 
pendent on the power of digesting and assim- 
ilating food possessed by the patient. The 
bowels should be moved by a mild laxative, 
such as the lenitive electuary {see No. 5154), 
effervescing magnesia, or castor oil ; and, so 
as to produce a little perspiration, a small 
dose (for a child, a tea-spoonful), of mindererus 
spirit {see No. 5143), in a little water, may be 
given at intervals of 2 or 3 hours. If the 
rash is long in appearing, or shows a disposi- 
tion to disappear, the development of the 
eruption may be secured by placing the child 
in a warm bath; if the child appears sunk 
and the pulse be feeble, a little warm wine 
and water may be administered. In ordinary 
cases, the early appearance of the eraption 
will be favored by administering a dose of 
sulphur (a small tea-spoonful for a child, in 
milk); and if there be much hoarseness, and 
croupy character of the breathing and cough, 
it will be expedient to apply a hot sponge 
over the throat. {See No. 5626.) With the 
appearance of the eruption, these s^^mptoms 
usually decline. Measles not unfrequently 
terminate in an attack of bowel complaint; 
this may be slight, and if so, will not require 
any medicinal treatment; indeed, it is salu- 
tary, but, on the other hand, when severe, 
and occurring in a delicate child, prompt 
means for arresting it must be adopted (such 
as are mentioned under the head of Diarrhea. 
{See No. 5G52, ^c.) If there be often-repeated 
sickness, food of the very blandest nature, 
pounded raw meat (the fat and gristle being 
removed before pounding), beef-tea, uncooked 
white of egg diluted with water, barley 
water, &c., should be given in small quanti- 
ties, and be very frequently repeated. Thirst, 
and the consequent restlessness, must be al- 
layed by drinks. Large draughts should be 
prohibited, as they tend to impair the diges- 
tion, and sometimes cause diarrhea; small 
quantities, swallowed slowly, or ice to suck, 
are sufficient to allay thirst, and also prove 
grateful to the patient. The patient, however. 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



499 



must be rJiowed to take larger quantities of 
fluids than in health, as an increased quantity 
is required by the system during the existence 
of fev'er. Acid, or acid and bitter drinks are 
generally found to lessen thirst to a greater 
degree than mere ^vater, and are, moreover, 
grateful to the patent. Lemonade with very 
little sugar, or raspberry vinegar and water, 
will be found useful. Stimulants are admin- 
istered to support the strength of the patient. 
This they do in a great measure by promoting 
digestion, and by also directly increasing the 
force of the heart's action. The administra- 
tiim and quantity of stimulants given cannot 
be regulated by the condition of the patient. 
Medical advice is particularly necessary here. 
Various complications are apt to take place, 
so that, if possible, advice should be had 
early in the day. If no advice is at hand, 
the symptoms must be treated according 
to the directions given under the particular 
beads. 

5750. Scarlet Fever. The preliminary 
treatment for this disease is very similar to 
that for measles. Give the patient a gentle 
■cathartic, and keep very warm in bed until the 
eruption appears. {See ^"0.5749.) The after- 
treatment consists of administering a gargle 
every 15 minutes, when the patient is awake. 
Make a gargle of 2 table-spoonfuls each 
brewer's yeast and strained honey, mixed 
with 1 pint strong sage tea, and alternate it 
with the potassa gargle. {See No. 5034.) 
Keep the skin of the patient moist by wash- 
ing all over, at least 3 times a day, with a so- 
lution of saleratus and water as hot as it can 
be borne ; after each washing grease the pa- 
tient all over thoroughly, with a piece of fat 
bacon. G-reat care must be taken to prevent 
the patient from catching cold in every stage 
of the disease, and the same cautions about 
ventilation, warmth, diet, &q., given under 
the head of measles, must also be observed 
in the treatment of scarlet fever. The patient 
must not be exposed to any great or sudden 
changes of temperature, even 3 weeks after 
•convalescence, as a relapse might be the con- 
sequence. 

5751. Preliminary Treatment of 
Scarlatina and Measles. The preliminary 
treat. n^at is simple: from | grain calomel, 
for children, to 5 grains for adults, should be 
placed on the tongue and swallowed. About 
an hour after, the first dose of the ammonia 
{see next receipt) is to be given, and repeated 
every 3 or 4 hours, as long as the disorder 
takes a favorable course. If the disorder in- 
creases in violence, the medicine must be 
given every 2 hours, or every hour, or some- 
times even more frequently, till the graver 
symptoms are subdued. This medicine has 
been fouul to possess similar powers over 
diphtheria. 

5752. Treatment of Scarlatina and 
measles. Dr. Witt states that sesquicarbon- 
ate of ammonia is an antidote to scarlatina 
and measles. The dose in these complaints 
varies from 3 to 10 grains, according to the 
age of the patient, given at longer or shorter 
intervals, according to the mildness or sever- 
ity of the attack. The suitable dose dissolved 
in as small a quantity of cold water as will 
admit of its being swallowed with as many 
grains of loaf sugar, merely to make it palata- 



ble, is all that is required. Any admixture 
with other medicines, as salines, bark, &c., 
and all acidulous drinks, are to be avoided. 

5753. Preventive of Scarlet Fever. 
Beliadouna has been found to render persons 
unsusceptible to the fever, in places where it 
is raging. It is to be given in extract, ^ 
grain morning and evening. 

5754. Remedy for Dropsy in Scarla- 
tina. Mix together \h drachms acetate of 
potassa; 6 grains extract of foxglove; 2 
drachms vinegar of squill ; 6 drachms syrup 
of ginger ; and 2 ounces water. Dose, 1 tea- 
spoonful every 3 hours. 

5755. Atlee's Scarlet Fever Remedy. 
\ ounce each chlorate of potassa and hydro- 
chloric acid, and I ounce spring water. 
Dose, 10 drops in a wine-glassful of cold wa- 
ter every 2 hours. 

5756. Intermittent Fever Pills. 
Take 10 to 12 grains white oxide of arsenic ; 
1 drachm muriate of ammonia, and 12 grains 
gum opium. Make into 64 pills. Dose, 1 to 
be taken morning, noon and night, with or 
without fever. 

5757. Intermittent Fever Mixture. 
Take 5 grains tannin, 16 grains sulphate of 
quinine, 1 ounce syrup of ginger, and i ounce 
cinnamon water. Take 1 tea-spoonful every 
hour, in the absence of the fever. 

5758. Treatment of Small-Pox. 
Advice should always be obtained as soon as 
the earliest symptoms appear; often the 
only symptom understood by the parents or 
friends is the eruption. In the absence of 
advice, the simpler cases of small-pox, un- 
attended b}'' much eruption, scarcely require 
any further treatment than confinement of 
the patient to bed, adminstering at the 
commencement a dose of aperient medicine, 
such as effervescing magnesia {see Ko. 4805, 
4y-,) or castor oil, (fee, and, until the erup- 
tion appears, of a few doses of mindererus 
spirit {see No. 5143), to promote perspiration. 
In the more severe cases there are individual 
symptoms of an unfavorable nature not un- 
likely to be developed, and these must be met 
by appropriate treatment. The imperfect 
filling of the pustules is generally accom- 
panied by a low form of fever, requiiing the 
use of stimulants, wine or brandy; these 
must, of course, be administered with great 
caution. In all stages, if the patient present 
a sunken look, and the pulse be feeble, the 
necessity for stimulants is indicated. By 
giving them with caution is meant that only 
just sufficient to keep up the vital powers 
should be given. 

5759. To Prevent Pitting in Small- 
Pox. The following has been found verj- 
effectual : The application consists of a solu- 
tion of india-rubber in chloroform, which is 
painted with a camel-hair pencil over the sur- 
face of the skin, where exposed, when the 
eruption has become fully developed. "Wben 
the chloroform has evaporated, which it very 
readily does, there is left a thin elastic film 
of india-rubber over the face. This the pa- 
tient feels to be rather comfortable, as it re- 
moves itching and all irritation; and, what 
is more important, pitting, once so common, 
is thoroughly prevented by the application. 
In making the solution, the india-rubber 
must be cut into small pieces, and chloroform 



500 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



added till it is dissolved. Gutta-percha has 
been tried, but has not answered, on account 
of its non-elasticity. Should any of the solu- 
tion, from some cause, he torn off, apply the 
solution as before. 

5760. Dr. George's Treatment to 
Prevent Pitting in Small-Pox. Dr. 
George recommends the following treatment : 
Firstly, from the commencement of the dis- 
ease cover the whole body, face and all, with 
calamine, shaken through a common pepper- 
box, taking care that the powder does not 
remain in masses. The inflammation on 
each pustule is by these applications much 
lessened, a point of great consequence. Sec- 
ondly, sprinkle about 1 ounce powdered cam- 
phor every 2 or 3 nights between the under 
sheet and blanket, the whole length of the 
body, putting more about the shoulders and 
neck. The relief obtained by this, few would 
credit until they had had experience. Third- 
ly, in the advanced stage of the disease, 
should hardened incrustations have formed, 
they may be removed, and without much 
pain too ; for in one case every portion of 
the cuticle was removed from the whole face, 
forehead, and even eyelids, the calamine ap- 
plied, and in a few days the cuticle was 
formed again without a blemigh. 

5761. Calamine. ISTative carbonate of 
zinc. It is prepared and purified for medi- 
cinal purposes by heating to redness, and 
pulverizing it, afterwards reducing it to an 
impalpable powder in the same manner as 
directed for prepared chalk. {See No. 
1292.) 

5762. To Remove Pitting and Old 
Pock-Marks. To remove pitting and old 
pock-marks, simple oil, pomade, or ointment, 
medicated with croton-oil, and of a strength 
just sufficient to raise a very slight pustular 
eruption, is probably the safest and most 
effective and convenient of all the prepara- 
tions that are employed for the purpose. It 
has for some years been successfully employ- 
ed in France and has there received medical 
approval. Dr. Cooley says he has seen it 
succeed to admiration, when every other 
method has failed. It should be applied at 
intervals extending over several weeks, as 
the feehngs, experience, and convenience of 
the party concerned may indicate, due care 
and caution being observed the whole time. 

5763. Treatment of an Attack of 
Apoplexy. Loosen the clothes, e?peciaUy 
those about the neck and throat, and send at 
once for a physician. Meanwhile, remove 
the patient into a cool, well-ventilated room, 
raise the head above the level of the body, 
and apply cold to the head, either by means 
of rags dipped in water, never allowing them 
to become warm, or by ice in a bladder, <fec. 
The diet will require great care when the 
patient is reviving. Only very small quanti- 
ties of milk, beef-tea, &c., must be given 
until he is able to digest more. Supposing 
the patient to recover from the fit, great care 
will be afterwards required to prevent a 
second attack. Strong medicines, great ex- 
citement, or much mental occupation are to 
be avoided. The diet ought to be light, but 
nutritious ; milk is useful, taken to the extent 
of 1-J- or 2 pints in the day ; and, as a rule, no 
spirits or wine should be allowed. 



5764. Remedy for Shortness of 
Breath. Take spirits of ether, 1 ounce, and 
caiaphor, 12 grains. Make a solution, of 
which take a tea-spoonful during the parox- 
ysm. This is usually found to afford in- 
stantaneous relief in difficult breathing, de- 
pending on internal disease and other causes, 
where the patient, from a quick and very 
laborious breathing, is obhged to be in an 
erect posture. 

5765. To Relieve Shortness of Breath. 
Take J ounce powder of elecampane root, -j 
ounce powder of liquorice, as much flower of 
brimstone and powder of aniseed, and 2 oun- 
ces sugar-candy powdered. Make all into 
pills, with a sufficient quantity of tar ; take 4 
large pills when going to rest. This is an in- 
comnarable medicine for asthma. 

5766. Palpitation of the Heart. 
Soda water, either the usual carbonated wa- 
ter, or prepared from effervescing soda pow- 
ders, frequently gives instant relief in an at- 
tack of palpitation of the heart. 

5767. To Relieve Palpitation of the 
Heart. Take 40 drops tincture of digitalis 
(fox-glove) ; 20 drops tincture of aconite ; 2 
drachms tincture of henbane ; 6 drachms 
camphor-water. Dose, a tea-spoonful 3 times 
a day. 

5768. Biliousness. Persons subject to 
bilious attacks should be particularly careful 
to guard against excess in eating and drink- 
ing, and should especially avoid those articles 
of food which, from experience, they find to 
disagree with them. A mutton chop under- 
cooked is an excellent article for the break- 
fast or lunch of a bilious patient ; and mutton 
or beef, either broiled or roasted, so that the 
gravy be retained, is better for dinner than 
many articles apparently more delicate. 
Beer and porter should be particularly avoid- 
ed, as well as puddings and most articles of 
pastry, as they are very indigestible. Hard 
cheese, butter, unripe fruit, and especially 
beans, peas, and nuts, are also objectionable. 
An attack of bile may frequently be prevent- 
ed by the use of a saline purgative, and it 
may generally be removed by a blue pill, fol- 
lowed with a mild purgative. 

5769. To Remove Tumors. To re- 
move tumors. Dr. Simpson, of Edinburgh, in- 
troduces a hollow acupuncture needle, or very 
fine trocar (a surgical instrument in the 
form of a fine hollow needle) into their tis- 
sue, and injects a few drops of some irritant 
liquid, such as a solution of chloride of zinc, 
perchloride of iron, or creosote. The effect 
has been to destroy the vitality of the tu- 
mors so treated, and they have been separa- 
ted. A similar plan has been adopted in 
Paris by M. Maisonneuve. He had slender 
stylets made of a paste composed of flour, 
water, and chloride of zinc. These are 
baked. A puncture is made in the tumor, 
the caustic stylet is inserted, broken off, and 
left. Several malignant tumors have been 
successfully treated in this manner, and in 
some cases a healthy granulating smface 
was left, after the separation of tumors which 
had been destroyed in this manner. 

5770. Treatment of Rupture. Kup- 
ture is generally caused by a strain or an 
accident, and should be attended to by a sur- 
geon as soon as possible. Meanwhile the 



MEDICAL nr.CEITTS. 



01 



patient must bo iaid 'upon a sofa or Led vitli 
his hips and legs slightly raised, so as to give 
him ease and to place the rupture in the 
most favorable position for being restored to 
its proper place. If the patient is faint, sup- 
port him by giving vrine and -^ater, or sal- 
volatile, or a little broth, but do not over-stim- 
ulate him. In other respects he must be kept 
perfectly quiet. 

5771. To Relieve Liockjaw. Let any 
one who has an attack of lockjaw take a 
small quantity of spirits of turpentine, -warm 
it, and pour it on the vround, no matter 
where the wound is, or what its nature is, 
and relief will follow in less than 1 minute. 
!N'othing better can be applied to a severe cut 
or bruise than cold turpentine ; it will give 
certain relief almost instantly. 

5772. Cure for Cancer. The use of 
clover tea is said to effect speedy and effectual 
cures of cancer, even in its most malignant 
form, and of long standing. The red clover 
is used ; the tops are boiled in water, and the 
tea is used externally and internally. About 
a quart a day sh{mld be administered internal- 
ly, and the tea should be used as a wash twice 
everv day. 

5773. Remedy for Scrofula. Put 1 
ounce aqua-fortis in a bowl or saucer ; drop 
in it 2 copper cents ; when the effervescence 
ceases, add 2 ounces strong vinegar. The 
fluid will be of a dark green color. It should 
and will smart. If too severe, dilute it with 
a little rain-water. Apply it to the sore, 
morning and evening, by a soft brush or a 
rag. Before applying it, wash the sore witli 
water. This receipt comes well recommended 
for curing old sores and other scrofulous erup- 
tions. 

5774. Anti-Scrofulous Mixture. Mix 
30 drops tincture of bichloride of gold ; 40 
drops tincture of iodine ; 1 fluid drachm tinc- 
ture of gentian; 7 fluid drachms simple syrup, 
and 5 fluid ounces rose-water. Dose, a des- 
sert-spoonful 3 or 4 times daily, in a wine- 
glassful of water, observing to shake well 
before pouring out the liquid. 

5775. White Swelling. This is a very 
painful disease ; it more frequently affects the 
knee than any other joint; sometimes the 
hip, ankle, and elbow. At first a severe pain 
is felt penetrating the joint, or only one par- 
ticular part of the joint. The least motion 
aggravates the pain. It soon begins to swell 
considerably, and suppuration takes place. 
Matter is discharged from several openings or 
ulcers, the bones are affected; and if the dis- 
ease is not arrested the life of the patient is 
endangered. 

5776. Treatment of WMte Swelling. 
Attend to the stomach and bowels, giving an 
emetic and an aperient, if needed ; to be fol- 
lowed by bitter tonics occasionally, giving the 
alterative syrup {see No. 51G3), diluted when 
first taken; or a decoction of sarsaparilla, 
sassafras, guaiacum, queen's delight, unicorn 
root, cleavers, and prickly ash berries, of each 
1 ounce. Simmer in a covered pan with 2 
quarts water down to 3 pints. Sweeten. A 
dessert-spoonful 3 or 4 times a day. Steam 
the part with bitter herbs, and now and then 
give a vapor bath to the whole body. After 
steaming the affected part, rub the limb 
with the rheumatic liquid. {See No. 4884.) 



5777. Beach's Cure for "White Swell- 
ing. Oil of hemlock, oil of sassafras, gum 
camphor, tincture of opium, i ounce each, and 
a pint of spirits of wine. "When dissolved 
and properly mixed, bathe the part with it 
frequently. Then apply an oatmeal and bran 
poultice, mixed with a little finely powdered 
charcoal, salt, and cayenne pepper. If the 
pain is great, sprinkle on the poultice i ounce' 
laudanum. Keep it on as long as possible, and 
then steam, 

5778. To Relieve Sea-Sickness. Take 
camphorated spirit, sal- volatile, and Hoffman's 
anodyne, a few drops of each, mixed in a 
small quantity of water, or upon a small lump 
of sugar. This often relieves when other 
prescriptions fail. 

5779. To Prevent Sea-Sickness. The 
neutralizing mixture {see No. 5GGG) is a good 
preventive. So is a tea-spoonful of bicarbon- 
ate of soda in i pint of water. Take an 
aperient before a voyage. One of the best 
means of counteracting the tendency to sea- 
sickness, is to keep a horizontal position. A 
little chloroform has lately been suggested as 
a good remedy. 5 to 10 drops on a piece of 
lump sugar. 

5780. Treatment of Debility. This 
arises from a diseased action of the stomach; 
the occasional use of mild aperients, fol- 
lowed by bitters and tonics, is the best treat- 
ment. "When, from a general laxity of the 
solids, and there are no symptoms of fever, 
nor a tendency of the blood to the head, a 
course of iron tonics will prove advantageous. 
Either of the following may be adopted for 
this purpose: Pure sulphate of iron, 1 drachm; 
extract of gentian and powdered ginger, of 
each 1| drachms ; beat together into a mass, 
and divide into 120 pills, 1 to be taken morn- 
ing, noon, and night. Or : Sulphate of iron 
and powdered myrrh, of each 1 drachm ; sul- 
phate of quinine, i drachm; conserve of roses, 
sufficient to form a pill mass. Divide into 120 
pills, administered as the last. 

5781. Remedy for Sick Stomach and 
Vomiting. Mix 24 drops creosote, 1 drachm 
each white sugar and gum-arabic, with 3 
ounces water. Administer a tea-spoonful 
every 2 hours, until vomiting ceases. 

5782. Sunstroke. This is a sudden 
prostration due to long exposure to great heat, 
especially when much fatigued or exhausted. 
It comrnonly happens from undue exposure 
to the sun's rays in summer, but the same 
effects have been produced in a baker from 
great heat of the bake-room. It begins with 
pain in the head, or dizziness, quickly followed 
by loss of consciousness and complete prostra- 
tion. Sometimes, however, the attack is as 
sudden as a stroke of apoplexy. The head is 
often burning hot, the face dark and swollen, 
the breathing labored and snoring, and the 
extremities cold. 

5783. Treatment of Sunstroke. Take 
the patient at once to a cool and shady place, 
but don't carry him far to a house or hospital. 
Loosen the clothes thoroughly about his neck 
and waist. Lay him down with the head a 
little raised. Apply wet cloths to the head, 
and mustard or turpentine to the calves of the 
legs and the soles of the feet. Give a little 
weak whiskey and water if he can swallow. 
Meanwhile let some one go for the doctor. 



502 



MEDICAL MECEIJPTS. 



Ton cannot safely do more "without his ad- 
vice. 

5784. Precautions Against Night- 
mare. Avoid all exciting causes, as too 
much abstruse thinking-, late and heavy sup- 
pers, food difficult of digestion, cold feet, cos- 
tiveness, and flatulence. 

5785. To Prevent tlie Nightmare. 
To prevent the nightmare, mix together 10 
grains carbonate of soda; 3 drachms com- 
pound tincture of cardamoms ; 1 drachm sim- 
ple syrup, and 1 ounce peppermint ■water. 
Kepeat for several nights in succession ; after- 
wards use for a few weeks the tonic aromatic 
mixture. {See No. 5124.) Also a little cay- 
enne in scullcap tea will prevent an attack. 
Those who are habitually subject to night- 
mare should not sleep in a room alone,'but 
have some person near them, to arouse them 
when attacked with it. A person is most lia- 
ble to nightmare when sleeping on his back ; 
in fact, it rarely occurs in any other posture. 
Those subject to it should therefore avoid 
sleeping in a bed which is hollow in the centre, 
as this induces the sleeper to lay on his back. 
The bed should be level and not too soft, and 
the pillow moderate in thickness, so that the 
head is not raised too high. 

5786. To Restrain Perspiration. 
^ring water, 2 ounces; diluted sulphuric 
acid, 40 drops ; compound spirits of lavender, 
2 drachms; take a table-spoonful twice a 
day. 

5787. Remedy for Night Sweats of 
Consumption. M. Guyot recommends as 
particulaiiy useful, in the sweats of consump- 
tion, the phosphate of lime in quantities of 
from 5 to I5 drachms in the day. In a small 
proportion of cases it may be inert; but in the 
majority it will diminish or quite remove the 
trouble. 

5788. Treatment for Night-Sweats 
in Consumption. Powdered borax, 5 5 
drachms; washed sulphur, 1 ounce; sub- 
nitrate of bismuth, li drachms; divide into 
40 powders, 1 to be given every 2 hours (12 a 
day). 4 to 5 days of treatment will suspend 
or diminish this troublesome and eshaust- 

. ing symptom, and give much relief to the pa- 
tient. 

5789. To Relieve Night-Sweats. Dis- 
solve 15 grains sulphate of quinine in ^ ounce 
essence of tansy, ^ ounce alcohol, ^ ounce 
water, and 30 drops muriatic acid. A tea- 
spoonful taken 2 or 3 times during the day 
and at bed-time. In connection with this 
remedy, cold sage tea is recommended to be 
used freely as a drink. 

5790. Squinting. It is well known 
that in infancy there is not unfrequently a 
tendency to squint ; this often passes away as 
the child increases in age ; but it sometimes 
becomes quite a fixed habit, requiring a surgi- 
cal operation for its permanent cure. A means 
of rendering this operation unnecessary by 
curing the tendency in early life has been 
suggested, which is worthy of trial. A pair 
of spectacles is procured without any glasses 
in them. One of the orifices opposite the eye 
that squints is to be filled with thin horn or 
with ground glass, and in the centre of the 
horn or glass is to be made a small hole. It 
is obvious that to see with the squinting eye 
It is necessary for the child to look directly 



through the orifice in the centre. He will 
thus acquire the habit of looking forward 
towards an object, instead of looking to the 
right or left hand of it. It is not at all im- 
probable that the slight squint, which in in- 
fancy is apparently only a habit, may be reme- 
died by this means. 

5791. Treatment of Styes. A stye is 
a small boil which projects from the eyelid, 
much inflamed, and very painful. The appli- 
cation of ice to the part will sometimes check 
it in the beginning. Apply a poultice of lin- 
seed meal, or bread and milk, and take at the 
same time an aperient. If the stye is ripe, 
puncture it, and then apply spermaceti oint- 
ment. 

5792. To Treat a Black Eye. This is 
usually caused by a blow. If attended with 
inflammation and pain, wash the eye often 
with very warm water, in which is dissolved 
a little carbonate of soda ; or with equal parts 
of tincture of opium and water. If the pain 
be acute, foment with a decotion of stramo- 
nium leaves, simmered in spirits. Wash the 
eye, and bind on the leaves; often repeat. 
Perhaps the best application is a poultice of 
slippery elm bark. Mix with milk and put it 
on warm. 

5793. To Cure a Black Eye. To re- 
move the discoloration of the eye, bind on a 
poultice made of the root of Solomon's seal. 
Culpepper says it is available for bruises, 
falls, or blows, to dispel the congealed blood, 
and to take away the pains, and the black and 
blue marks that remain after the hurt. The 
root may be washed, the dark-colored skin 
carefully cut off", then scraped like horse- 
radish, and applied direct to the eye in the 
way of a poultice, cold. A tingling sen- 
sation is the consequence ; when this sen- 
sation ceases, another fresh application should 
be made, and repeated until the whole dis- 
coloration is absorbed. It is often found suffi- 
cient to apply the scraped root at bed-time to 
the closed eye, when the blackness has dis- 
appeared by the morning. Or: Moisten with 
tepid water, and then with a piece of lint ap- 
ply pure extract of lead ; continue to keep 
the lint wet with the extract for a couple of 
hours. Leeches ought not to be used. A 
lotion often used by surgeons with advantage 
is prepared thus : Take nitrate of potassa and 
sal-ammonia, each 1 part; water, 48 parts; 
vinegar, 4 parts. The part bruised to be kept 
wet with this by means of a bandage. 

5794. To Remove Dirt or Foreign 
Particles from the Eye. Take a h< g's 
bristle, double so as to form a loop. Lift the 
eyelid and gently insert the loop up over the 
ball, which will occasion no disagreeable feel- 
ing. ISTow close the lid down upon the bris- 
tle, which may now be withdrawn. The dirt 
will surely be upon the bristle. M. Eenard, 
in the case of small movable bodies which 
become entangled beneath the upper eyelid, 
recommends the following simple process : 
Take hold of the upper eyelid near its angles, 
with the forefinger and thumb of each hand, 
draw it gently forwards and as low down as 
possible over the lower eyelid, and retain it in 
this position for about a minute, taking care 
to prevent the tears from flowing out. When, 
at the end of this time, you allow the eyelid 
to resume its place, a flood of tears washes 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



503 



out the foreign body, which "will be found ad- 
hering to, or near to, the lower eyelid. If 
lime gets into the eyes, a few drops of vinegar 
and water will dissolve and remove it. Al- 
mond or olive oil will do away with any hot 
fluid that may reach the eye. 

5795. To Expel Insects, Dirt, &c., 
from the Eye. The first thing to he done j 
when a mote or spark gets into your eye, is to 
pull down the lower part of the eyelid, and 
with a handkerchief in your hand blow your 
nose violently at the same moment. This 
will frequently expel the mote without further 
trouble. A mote will, in many cases, come 
out of itself, by immediately holding your 
eye wide open in a cup or glass filled to the 
brim with clear cold water. 

5796. To Extract Particles of Iron 
or Steel from the Eye. A particle of iron 
or steel may be extracted from the eye by 
holding near it a powerful magnet. 

5797. Eye- Waters. Eye-waters should 
be perfectly clear, and free from any floating 
matter, however trifling. To secure this, it is 
in general necessary either to filter them 
through bibulous paper, or a piece of clean, 
fine muslin, or to carefully decant them after 
sufficient repose to allow the impurities to 
subside. When pure distilled water is used 
in their preparation, only some of them will 
require filtering. In using eye-waters, a little 
of the liquid should be poured into a clean 
cup, gallipot, or glass, or into the clean palm 
of the left hand, when the eye should be 
thoroughly wetted with it, either by means of 
a small piece of clean sponge or soft white 
rag, or the clean tips of the fingers of the 
right hand. In all cases it is advisable to 
bathe or wash the eyes in tepid water, and to 
wipe them dry, before the application of the 
eye-water; and, in most cases, this is abso- 
lutely necessary to insure benefit from their 
use. In the preparation of eye-waters, sub- 
stances of crystalline formation are better 
when used dry, that is, deprived of their wa- 
ter of crystallization. {See No. 2065.) 

6798. Astringent Eye-water. Take 
of sulphate of zinc, 20 grains ; distilled water, 
i pint ; dissolve. An excellent astringent 
eye-water, in chronic as well as ordinary 
ophthalmia, as soon as the inflammatory 
symptoms subside; also in weak, lax, wa- 
tery, irritable eyes, &q. If there be much 
pain and irritability, 5 or 6 grains of acetate 
of morphia, or 2 fluid drachms of wine of 
opium, may be added. 

5799. " Eye-water for Weak Eyes. 
Take 5 ounce rock salt and 1 ounce of dry 
sulphate of zinc ; simmer in a perfectly clean 
covered porcelain vessel with 3 pints of water 
until all are dissolved ; strain through thick 
muslin, add 1 ounce of rose-water ; bottle and 
cork it tight. To use it, mii 1 tea-spoonful 
of rain-water, with 1 of eye-water, and bathe 
the eyes, if weak, frequently. If it smarts 
too much, add more water; if not enough, 
make it a little stronger by adding more eye- 
water. This is an admirable wash for weak 
eyes. It cannot be excelled. 

5800. Wash for Inflamed Eyes. Take 
10 drops extract of lead (the liquor of acetate 
of lead); distilled vinegar, 2 drachms ; distill- 
ed water, 4 ounces. This is an excellent wash 
for inflamed eyes. 



5801. Anodyne Eye-water. Solution 
of acetate of ammonia, 2 ounces; distilled 
water, hot, 6 ounces ; soft extract of opium, 
10 grains. Dissolve the opium in the hot wa- 
ter, strain through fine muslin, and add the 
solution of the acetate of ammonia. This 
application frequently aflbrds great relief 
from the pain and initation accompanying 
inflammation. 

5802. Eye-water for Specks on the 
Eye. Oxymuriate of mercury, 5 grain ; best 
rose-water, 4 ounces. This solution is of 
much use in removing the indolent inflam- 
mation and the white specks which an acute 
inflammation of the eyes frequently leaves 
after it. 

5803. Bates' Eye-water. Dissolve in 4 
fluid ounces boiling water, 15 grains dry sul- 
phate of copper {see Ko. 5797), and 4 grains 
camphor. AYhen cold, add water to make it 
4 pints, and filter. Good in purulent oph- 
thalmia. 

5804. Goulard's Eye-water. Solution 
diacetate of lead, 10 drops; rose or elder- 
flower water, 6 fluid ounces. Mix. Good in 
inflammatory stage of ophthalmia. 

5805. Wash for Removing Particles 
of Iron or Zinc from the Eye. Muriatic 
acid, 20 drops ; mucilage, 1 drachm ; mix with 
2 fluid ounces rose-water. 

5806. To Allay Temporary Irritation 
or Weakness in the Eye. Temporary in- 
flammation, produced by cold or external 
causes, is rapidly allayed by frequently bath- 

I ing the eye with lukewarm milk and water, 
or rose-water ; applied either with a Hnen rag 
or by means of an eye-glass. A poultice of 
tea-leaves (the wet leaves left in the tea-pot) 
is also an excellent remedy. Probably the 
best remedy of all is to put a table-spoonful 
of salt in a basin of water (say i gallon), 
immerse the face in this twice a day, opening 
the eyes under the water, and using fresh 
salt and water every day. The eyes should 
under no circumstance be rubbed, as that will 
increase the initation. 

5807. Atropine Paper. Green tissue 
paper imbued with a solution of sulphate of 
atropia, so that a piece one-fifth of an inch 
square contains as much as a drop of a solu- 
tion 2 grains to 1 ounce of water. The paper 
is hung up and turned about while drying. A 
piece of the size named will dilate the pupil if 
placed on the sclerotic, and the lids closed over 
it and tied with a handkerchief. 

5808. Belladonna Mixture for Cata- 
ract. Triturate together 1 drachm each ex- 
tract of belladonna and glycerine. Used for 
dilating the pupil of the eye in cataract, by 
anointing the evebrow and temple. 

5809. Taylor's Remedy for Deafness. 
Digest 2 ounces bruised garlic in 1 pound oil 
of almonds for a week, and strain. A drop 
poured into the ear is effective in temporary 
deafness. 

5810. Treatment of Earache. M. 
Emile Duval says that he has, in person, found 
relief in severe earache, after other means had 
been tried in vain, from the use of a mixture 
of equal parts of chloroform and laudanum ; 
a little being introduced on a piece of cotton. 
The first effect produced is a sensation of 
cold; then there is numbness, followed by 
scarcely perceptible pain and refreshing sleep. 



504. 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



5811. Cure for the Earaclie. Take a 
small piece of cotton batting or cotton wool, 
make a depression in the centre with the fin- 
ger, and fill it up with as much ground pepper 
as will rest on a five-cent piece ; gather it into 
a ball and tie it up ; dip the ball into sweet 
oil and insert it in the ear, covering the latter 
with cotton wool, and use a bandage or cap 
to retain it in its place. Almost instant relief 
win be experienced, and the application is so 
gentle that an infant will not be injured by it, 
but experience relief, as well as adults. 1 
part laudanum and 6 parts sweet oil dropped 
in the ear is also very effectual. 

5812. Simple Cure for Earache. Take 
a common tobacco-pipe, place a wad of cotton 
in the bowl, drop upon it 8 or 10 drops of 
chloroform, and cover with another wad of 
cotton; place the stem to the affected ear, 
then blow into the bowl, and in many cases 
the pain will cease almost immediately. 

5813. Remedy for Inflammation of 
the Ear. Swelling and redness, attended 
with throbbing, indicates it. If caused by 
accumulation of wax, syringe the ear forcibly 
with tepid water. If by cold, a poultice of 
warm hops, soaking the feet. If the pain is 
great, 1 drop laudanum and 2 drops sweet oil 
of almonds dropped into the ear 3 times a day, 
or juice of onions and laudanum. A slice of 
onion, toasted and tied on hot outside the ear, 
2S a good remedy for earache in children, and 
often effective with adults. If very severe, a 
mustard poultice can be held behind the ear. 
If the stomach is out of order use an emetic. 
If no relief comes, call a physician. 

5814. Remedy for Temporary Deaf- 
ness. If deaf from hardened wax in the ear, 
a mixture of sassafras oil, 10 drops ; glycerine, 
1 fluid drachm ; olive oil, ^ fluid ounce, mixed, 
may be dropped into the ear every day. If 
deaf from other causes, go to the physician. 

5815. Cure for Temporary Deafness. 
Inject warm water into the ear by means of a 
proper syringe, the head being placed with 
that side upwards during the operation. 

5816. To Destroy Insects in the Ear. 
Insects may be destroyed by pouring a spoon- 
ful of warm olive oil, or camphorated oil, into 
the ear over night, retaining it there until the 
next morning by means of a piece of cotton 
wool, when it may be washed out with a little 
mild soap and warm water. 

5817. To Cure Habitual Drunken- 
ness. The following singular means of cur- 
ing habitual drunkenness is employed by Dr. 
Schreiber, a Eussian physician : It consists in 
confining the drunkard in a room, and in fur- 
nishing him at discretion with his favorite 
spirit diluted with f of water ; as much wine, 
beer, and cofifee as he desires, but containing 
^ of spirit ; all the food — the bread, meat, and 
the vegetables steeped in spirit and water. 
The poor patient is continually drunk. On 
the fifth day of this treatment he has an ex- 
treme disgust for spirit; he earnestly requests 
other diet ; but his desire must not be yielded 
to, until he no longer desires to eat or drink ; 
he is then certainly cured of his love of drink. 
He acquires such a disgust for brandy, or other 
spirits, that he is ready to vomit at the very 
sight of it. 

5818. Tonic After Drinking to Excess. 
Mix together 5 gi-ains sulphate of quinine ; 10 



drops aromatic sulphmic acid; I ounce com. 
pound tincture of gentian ; 2 drachms com 
pound tincture of cardamoms; I5 ounces gin- 
ger syrup; and 2 ounces water. A table- 
spoonful administered 3 times a day wiU 
remove the prostrating effects of drinking to 
excess. 

5819. Remedy for Chafing. Stout per- 
sons suffer greatly, especially in warm weath- 
er, from chafing, TVe know of nothing better 
than a wash of alum dissolved in water, and 
applied with a linen or cotton rag. 

5820. Lotion for Bed-Sores. To 1 
table-spoonful of powdered alum put 1 teacup- 
ful of whiskey and bathe the sore part several 
times a day. 

5821. To Relieve Irritation in Bed- 
Sores. Apply to the sores the white of an 
egg, well beaten, and mixed with spirits of 
wine. 

5822. To Prevent and Cure Chapped 
Hands. Wash the hands with fine soap; 
and before removing the soap, scrub the hands 
with a table-spoonful of Indian meal, rinsing 
thoroughly with soft tepid water, using a lit- 
tle meal each time except the last; wipe the 
hands perfectly dry; then rinse them in a very 
little water containing a tea- spoonful of pure 
glycerine, rubbing the hands together until 
the water has evaporated. This is an excel- 
lent remedy, but the glycerine must be pure, 
or it will irritate instead of healing. 

5823. Treatment of the Nails. The 
nails should be kept clean by the daily use of 
the nail-brush and soap and water. After 
wiping the hands, but while they are stiU soft 
from the action of the water, gently push back 
the skin which is apt to grow over the nails, 
which will not only keep them neatly round- 
ed, but will prevent the skin cracking around 
their roots (hang-nails), and becoming sore. 
The points of the nails should be pared at 
least once a week; biting them should be 
avoided. 

5824. To Remove "Warts. A daily 
application of either of the three following 
remedies is effective in dispersing warts: 
Touch the wart with a little nitrate of silver 
(lunar caustic); or with nitric acid or aro- 
matic vinegar. The lunar caustic produces a 
black, and the nitric acid a yellow stain, which 
passes off in a short time; the vinegar scarce- 
ly discolors the skin. Sparks of frictional 
electricity, repeated daily, by applying the 
warts to the conductor of an electrical ma- 
chine, have been also successfully employed 
as a cure for these troublesome and unsightly 
excrescences. 

5825. Wart or Com Powder. Ivy- 
leaves dried and ground to fine powder. A 
popular and useful remedy for warts and soft 
corns. The part having been moistened with 
strong vinegar, a pinch of the powder is 
sprinkled on it, and then bound on with a 
strip of rag. This is sometimes called cos- 
metic vegetable caustic. A mixture of equal 
parts of savine and verdigris also make an effi- 
cacious wart powder. 

5826. To Remove Moles. Croton oil, 
under the form of pomade or ointment, and 
potassio-tartrate of antimony (tartar emetic), 
under the form of paste or plaster, have each 
recently been successfully employed for the 
removal of ordinary moles and birth-marks. 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



505 



The following is the mode of using the latter 
adopted by an eminent French surgeon : Take 
tartar emetic in impalpable powder, 15 grains; 
soap plaster, 1 drachm ; and beat them to a 
paste. Apply this paste to nearly a line in 
thickness (not more), and cover the whole 
with strips of gummed paper. In 4 or 5 days 
erupti(m or suppuration will set in, and, in a 
few days after, leave, in place of the birth- 
mark, only a very slight scar. Croton oil 
ointment eflfects the same, bat less completely 
unless repeated, by producing a pustular erup- 
tion, which, however, does not permanently 
mark the skin. {See No. 5762.) 

5827. Ingrowing Toe Nails. This 
most painful of the diseases of the nails is 
caused by tbe improper manner of cutting the 
nail (generally of the great toe), and then 
wearing a short, badly-made shoe. The nail 
beginning to grow too long, and rather wide 
at the corners, is trimmed around the corner, 
which gives temporary relief But it then 
begins to grow wider in the side where it was 
cut off; and, as the shoe presses the flesh 
against the comer, the nail cuts more and 
more into the raw flesh, which becomes ex- 
cessively tender and irritable. If this state 
continue long the toe becomes more and more 
painful and ulcerated, and proud-flesh sprouts 
up from the sorest points. "Walking greatly 
increases the sufiering, till positive rest be- 
comes indispensable. 

5828. Treatment of Ingrowing Toe 
Nails. Begin the effort at cure by simple 
application to the tender part of a small quan- 
tity of perchloride of iron. It is found in 
drug stores in a fluid form, though sometimes 
in powder. There is immediately a moderate 
sensation of pain, constriction or burning. In 
a few minutes the tender surface is felt to be 
dried up, tanned or mummified, and it ceases 
to be painful. The patient, who before could 
not put his foot to the floor, now finds that he 
can walk upon it without pain. By permit- 
ting the hardened, wood-like flesh to remain 
for 2 or 3 weeks, it can be easily removed by 
soaking the foot in wanu water. A new and 
healthy structure is found firm and solid, 
below. If thereafter the nails be no more cut 
around the corners or sides, but always curved 
in across the front end, they will in future 
grow only forwards ; and by wearing a shoe 
of reasonably good size and shape, all further 
trouble will be avoided. 

6829. To Prevent the Nail Growing 
into the Toe. If the nail of your toe be 
hard, and apt to grow round, and into the 
corners of your toe, take a piece of broken 
glass and scrape the top very thin; do this 
whenever you cut your nails, and, by constant 
use, it makes the corners fly up and grow 
flat, so that it is impossible they should give 
you anv pain. Do not fail to try this. 

5830. Remedy for Blistered Feet 
from liOng Walking. Kub the feet, at 
going to bed, with spirits, mixed with tallow 
dropped from a lighted candle into the palm of 
the hand. 

5831. Method of Preventing Cold 
Feet at Bed-time. Draw off your stockings 
just before undressing, and rub your ankles 
and feet well with your hand, as hard as you 
can bear the pressure, for 5 or 10 minutes, 
and you will never have to complain of cold 



feet in bed. It is hardly conceivable what a 
pleasurable glow this diffuses. Frequent 
washing of the feet, and rubbing them thor- 
oughly dry with a linen cloth or flannel, is 
very useful. 

5832. Chilblain. This is an inflamma- 
tory swelling, of a purple or lead color, pro- 
duced by the action of cold. Children, espe- 
cially those of a scrofulous habit, and elderly 
persons, are generally most liable to chil- 
blains. The common cause is holding tho 
hands or feet to the fire, after exposure to 
cold. The sudden change of temperature 
partially destroys the vitality, and prevents 
the proper flow of blood through the part. 
As chilblain is only another name for a lan- 
guid circulation in the part affected, indicated 
by a congested skin, or a low form of inflam- 
mation, the value of most of the following 
receipts will be apparent when it is noticed 
that they are all calculated to act as stimulants 
of the blood-vessels, and thus promote the 
motion of the partially stagnant blood which 
gives rise to the heat and itching that are so 
distressing. {See No. 4883.) 

5833. Remedy for Broken Chilblains. 
Mix together 4 fluid ounces collodion, \k fluid 
ounces Yenice turpentine, and 1 fluid ounce 
castor oil. 

5834. Zinc Wash for Chilblains. Dis- 
solve 1 ounce sulphate of zinc in 1 pint water. 
Apply several times a day. 

5835. Chilblain Lotion. Dissolve 1 
ounce muriate of ammonia in 5 pint cider 
vinegar, and apply frequently. 5 pint alco- 
hol may be added to this lotion with good 
effects. 

5836. Petroleum Liniment for Chil- 
blains. Nothing appears of such uniform 
utility for allaying the inflammatory irrita- 
tion, as the ordinary petroleum or kerosene 
oil. 

5837. To Cure Chilblains. M. W. E. 
Schaller says that the fluid concentrated 
chloride of iron is an unfailing remedy for 
chilblains, its application to them for a single 
day effecting a cure. It may also be used 
with advantage for frost-bites. 

5838. Remedy for Severe Chilblains. 
From 10 to 60 grains nitrate of silver dis- 
solved in 1 fluid ounce water has been some- 
times found useful after other applications 
had appeared of no benefit. Tincture of 
cantharides, to stimulate almost to blistering, 
has also been used in the more intractable 
forms of the disease. The tincture of capsi- 
cum has been presented as a specific in this 
disease. 

5839. Chilblain Balm. Boil together 
10 fluid ounces olive oil, 2 fluid ounces Yenice 
turpentine, and 1 ounce yellow wax; strain, 
and while still warm add, constantly stirring, 
25 drachms balsam of Peru, and 9 grains 
camphor. 

Another formula for making this balm adds 
h ounce alkauet root, but employs i drachm 
less of the balsam of Peru. This is applied 
by being spread on a soft cloth and laid on the 
part affected. 

5840. Chilblain Liniment. Mix to- 
gether 1 fluid ounce rectified oil of turpentine, 
15 drops sulphuric acid, and 2 ounces olive 
oil. This, rubbed gently on the chilblains 
twice a day, is generally very effective. 



506 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



5841. To Cure Chilblains. The follow- 
ing remedj^ was published by order of the 
"Wirtemberg goverument. Mutton tallow and 
lard, of each | pound avoirdupois ; melt in an 
iron vessel and add hydrated oxide of iron, 
2 ounces ; stirring continually with an iron 
spoon, until the mass is of a uniform black 
color ; then let it cool, and add Yenice turpen- 
tine, 2 ounces ; and Armenian bole, 1 ounce ; 
oil of bergamot, 1 drachm ; rub up the bole 
with a little olive oil before putting it in. 
Apply several times daily by putting it upon 
lint or linen. It heals the worst cases in a 
few days. 

5842. Russian Remedy for Chil- 
blains. Slices of the rind of fully-ripe cu- 
cumbers, dried with the soft parts attached. 
Previous to use they are softened by soaking 
them in warm water, and are then bound on 
the sore parts with the inner side next them, 
and left on all night. This treatment is said 
to be adopted for both broken and unbroken 
chilblains. 

5843. Remedy for Itching Feet from 
Frost-bites. Take hydrochloric acid, 1 
ounce ; raiu water, 7 ounces ; wash the feet 
with it 2 or 3 times daily, or wet the socks 
with the preparation until relieved. 

5844. To Cure Slight Frost-bites. 
The remedy for this is long-continued friction 
with the hands or cold flannel, avoiding the 
fire or even a heated apartment, 

5845. To Correct an Offensive Smell 
in the Feet. Bathe them in a weak solu- 
tion of permanganate of potassa ; 1 scruple of 

he salt to 8 ounces of water. {See No. 1701.) 

5846. Powder for Absorbing Excess- 
ive Perspiration of the Feet. Mix to- 
gether 7 ounces carbonate of magnesia, 2 
ounces powdered calcined alum, 7 ounces 
orris root, and h. drachm powdered cloves. 

5847. Corns. Corns are entirely owing 
to continued pressure, such as wearing small 
boots or shoes. At first they are the produc- 
tion of the outer skin only, but by gradually 
thickening they at length come to be connect- 
ed with the true skin beneath, and even with 
the subjacent muscles. {See Nos. 5079 and 
5080.) 

5848. To Prevent Corns. Prevention 
is better than cure. Wear woolen stockings, 
and see that there is no local and permanent 
pressure on any part of the foot. 

5849. To Cure Corns. If a cure be 
requisite, soak the corn for 5 hour in a solu- 
tion of soda, and pare as close as possible ; 
then apply a plaster of the following ingredi- 
ents : Take of purified ammonia and yellow 
wax, of each 2 ounces ; and acetate of copper, 
6 drachms. Melt the first two ingredients 
together, and, after removing them from the 
fire, add the acetate of copper just before they 
grow cold. Spread this ointment on a piece 
of soft leather or on linen, and apply it to the 
corn, removing it in two weeks. 

5850. To Cure Soft Corns. The soft 
corn occurs between tbe toes, and is produced 
iu the same manner as the common com ; but 
in consequence of the moisture existing in 
this situation, the thickened scarf-skin be- 
comes saturated, and remains permanently 
soft. The soft corn is best relieved by cutting 
away the thick skin with a pair of scissors, 
avoiding to wound the flesh ; then touching it 



with a drop of Friar's balsam, and wearing 
habitually a piece of cotton wool between the 
toes, changing the cotton daily. Tincture of 
arnica, applied on a piece of cotton wool, is 
also said to be an excellent remedy. 

5851. To Cure Soft Corns. Dip a 
piece of linen rag in turpentine and wrap 
round the toe on which the corn is situated, 
night and morning. The relief will be almost 
immediate, and in a few days the corn will 
disappear. 

5852. To Relieve Hard Corns. Bind 
them up at night with arnica, to relieve the 
pain. During the day, occasionally moisten 
the stocking over the corn with arnica, if the 
shoe is not large enough to allow the com 
being bound up with a piece of linen rag. 

5853. Remedy for Corns. Soak the 
feet well in warm water, then with a sharp 
instrument pare off as much of the com 
as can be done without pain, and bind up the 
part affected, with a piece of linen or muslin 
thoroughly saturated with sperm oil, or, what 
is better, the oil which floats upon the surface 
of the pickle of herring or mackerel. After 
3 or 4 days the dressing may be removed, and 
the remaining dead cuticle removed by scrap- 
ing, when the new skin will be found of a soft 
and healthy texture and less liable to the for- 
mation of a new corn than before. 

5854. To Relieve Corns. Take a 
lemon, cut off a small piece, then nick it so 
as to let in the toe with the com, tie this on 
at night, so that it cannot move, and in the 
morning you will find that, with a blunt knife, 
you may remove a considerable portion of the 
com. Make two or three applications, and 
great relief will be the result. 

5855. Remedy for Corns. The pain 
occasioned by corns may be greatly alleviated 
by the following preparation : Into a 1-ounce 
phial put 2 drachms of muriatic acid and 6 
drachms of rose-water. With this mixture 
wet the corns night and morning for .3 days. 
Soak the feet every evening in warm water 
without soap. Put one-third of the acid into 
the water, and, with a little picking, the corn 
will be dissolved. 

5856. Liquid Solvent for Corns; 
Corn Solvent. A saturated solution of salt 
of tartar or pearlash. It is commonly obtained 
by exposing the article, contained in a jar or 
wide-mouthed bottle, in a damp place, until it 
forms an oil-like liquid. 

5857. To Cure Bunions. A bunion is 
a swelling on the ball of the great toe, and is 
the result of pressure and irritation by fric- 
tion. The treatment for corns applies also to 
bunions ; but, in consequence of the greater 
extension of the disease, the cure is more 
tedious. "When a bunion is forming it may be 
stopped by poulticing and carefully opening it 
with a lancet. 

5858. To Cure a Corn on the Sole of 
the Foot. A corn on the sole of the foot is 
usually diflBcult to cure, as the weight of the 
body causes a constant pressure on it. The 
application of an ordinary corn-plaster, with a 
hole in the centre, will relieve the pressure 
from the com, but it causes an inequality 
under the foot, which is not only uncomforta- 
ble, but likely to produce other corns. The 
following method never fails : Cut a piece of 
stout cardboard (or thin binders' board) to fit 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



507 



inside the sole of the boot. This should be 
large enough in every way to prevent it shift- 
ing under the foot in walking. iSText cut a 
round hole in this inner sole, exactly where 
the corn rests, the hole being rather larger 
than the corn. This arrangement relieves the 
corn from pressure and allows of its rapid 
cure, at the same time affording instant relief 
and freedom in walking. 

5859. To Cure a Disagreeable Breath. 
This most disagreeable mfliction may be alle- 
viated or cured by one or other of the follow- 
ing remedies, provided that the teeth do not 
require a dentist's assistance. Chlorine wa- 
ter, as supplied by a good chemist, a table- 
spoonful to half a tumbler of water, to be 
■used as a wash and gargle for the mouth ; no 
harm will be done if a few drops are accident- 
ally swallowed in so doing. Charcoal in tea- 
spoonful doses of the powder, or as charcoal 
biscuits, or the use of prepared chalk as a 
tooth-powder. A frequent cause of foul 
breath is a torpidity of some of the excre- 
tory organs, such as the skin, kidneys, bow- 
els, liver, lungs. When these cease perform- 
ing their functions one of the others will be 
called upon to perform an extra office. In 
this way, when the bowels or skin become 
affected, the lungs, being an excretory organ, 
will be called upon to throw off an additional 
waste from the system. If so, the breath 
becomes tainted. Should the foul breath be 
depending upon the stomach, it must be cor- 
rected by some skillful physician. 

5860. Remedy for Bad Breath. Take 
of dry hypochlorite of lime, 3 drachms ; dis- 
tilled water, 2 ounces troy. Triturate the 
hypochlorite of lime in a glass pestle and 
mortar; when the hypochlorite has been thor- 
oughly pulverized add a portion of the distill- 
ed water ; allow the mixture to rest until the 
liquid has become transparent ; then decant ; 
add a second portion of water, triturate and 
allow to rest, again decant ; this process is 
repeated a third time. The three liquids 
which have been decanted are then mixed, 
and 2 troy ounces of 85 per cent, alcohol, and 
4 drops oil of roses or some other essential oil 
are added. The solution thus prepared may 
be employed to remove the fetid odor which 
is given off by the gums — an odor often due 
to the diseased condition of the tissues. To 
employ it, \ tea-spoonful is poured into a tum- 
blerful of water, and the gums are washed 
with the mixture, employing for the purpose 
a sponge-brush. The same preparation may 
be employed to remove the odor of tobacco, 
rinsing the mouth several times with water 
to which has been added a tea-spoonful of the 
liquid. Inasmuch as the odor of the essential 
oil is gradually diminished m time, said dimi- 
nution taking place at the expense of the 
chlorine of the hypochlorite, it is suggested 
that this inconvenience may be obviated by 
preparing the solution with water and the 
hypochlorite of lime, and keeping it in one 
bottle, while the aromatic alcoholic solution 
(prepared of 2 ounces of 85 per cent, alcohol 
and 4 drops of essential oil) is preserved in 
another, both being well stoppered. When it 
is desired to use the liquids, a half tea-spoon- 
ful of each of the solutions is poured into a 
glass of water, which is then employed as 
described above. 



5861. Remedy for Bad Breath. Take 
5 to 10 drops hj'^drochloric acid in haff a tum- 
bler of spring water, a little lemon juice, and 
loaf sugar rubbed on lemon peel to flavor it to 
suit the palate. Let this mixture be taken 3 
times a day for a month or six weeks, and, if 
useful, then continued occasionally. It is a 
pleasant refrigerant and tonic draught. 

5862. Remedy for Bad Breath. Bad 
or foul breath will be removed by taking a tea- 
spoonful of the following mixture after each 
meal : 1 ounce liquor of potassa, 1 ounce 
chloride of soda, 11 ounces phosphate of 
soda, and 3 ounces water. 

5863. Bad Breath from Constipation. 
Wlien the breath is affected by constipation of 
the bowels, the following mixture will be 
useful: Take 4 drachms Epsom salts, 8 
drachms tincture of columba, 6 ounces in- 
fusion of roses; well shake the phial each 
time you take the draught, which should be 
every other morning for a month or six 
weeks, a wine-glassful each time. 

5864. To Remove the SmeU of 
Onions from the Breath. Parsley eaten 
with vinegar will remove the unpleasant 
effects of eating onions. 

5865. To Correct the Odor of Decay- 
ed Teeth. To correct the odor of decayed 
teeth, 2 drops of a concentrated solution of 
permanganate of potash may be used in a 
glass of water as a wash, or a few drops of a 
weak solution may be introduced in the 
cavity of the tooth on a small piece of cot- 
ton. {See No. 1701.) 

5866. To Preserve the Teeth and 
Grums. The teeth should be washed night 
and morning, a moderately small and soft 
brush being used ; after the morning ablution 
pour on a second tooth-brush, slightly 
damped, a little of the following lotion : car- 
bolic acid, 20 drops; spiritof wine, 2 drachms; 
distnied water, 6 ounces. After using this 
lotion for a short time the gums become 
firmer and less tender, and impurity of the 
breath (which is most commonly caused by 
bad teeth) will be removed. It is a great 
mistake to use hard tooth-brushes, or to brush 
the teeth until the gums bleed. {See Nos. 
1288, 4x. 

5867. Magnetic Pain-Killer for 
Acute Pain and Toothache. This is one 
of the very best receipts for relieving 
acute pain and toothache. Laudanum, 1 
drachm ; gum camphor, 4 drachms ; oil of 
cloves, 5 drachm ; oil of lavender, 1 drachm ; 
add these to 1 ounce alcohol, 6 drachms sul- 
phuric ether, and 5 fluid drachms chloroform. 
Apply with lint; or, for toothache, rub on the 
gums, and upon the face against the tooth. 

5868. Blake's Cure for the Tooth- 
ache. Take alum, reduced to an impalpable 
powder, 2 drachms ; spirits of nitric ether, 7 
drachms. Mix, and apply them to the tooth. 
This is said to be an infallible cure for all 
kinds of toothache unless the disease is con- 
nected with rheumatism. 

5869. Chloral for Toothache. Dr. 
Page recommends chloral hydrate as a local 
application in cases of toothache. A few 
grains of the solid hydrate introduced into 
the cavity of the tooth upon the point of a 
quill speedily dissolves there ; and in the 
course of a few minutes, during which a not 



508 



MEDICAL BECEIPTS. 



unpleasant warm sensation is experienced, 
tlie pain is either deadened, or, more often, 
effectually allayed. A second or third ap- 
plication may be resorted to if necessary. 
{Brit. Med. Journ.) 

5870. To Cure Toothache. To 1 drachm 
flexible collodion add 2 drachms carbolic acid. 
A gelatinous mass is precipitated, a small 
portion of which inserted into the cavity of 
an aching tooth invariably gives immediate 
relief. 

5871. Chlorate of Potassa as a Cure 
for Toothache. According to the experi- 
ence of eminent dentists, chlorate of potassa 
affords quick relief in toothache. If the hol- 
low tooth is in the lower jaw, a small crystal 
of this salt may be put in the cavity ; but 
perhaps it is more advisable to use a solution 
of 1 part of the potassa in 20 of water. 

5872. Paste for Toothache. Take of 
root-bark of pellitory, 1 drachm ; muriate of 
morphia, 5 grains ; triturate until reduced to 
fine powder, then add, finest honey, 3 
drachms ; oil of cloves (or of cajeput), 20 
drops; concentrated tincture of pellitory, 
a sufficient quantity to form the whole into a 
smooth paste. Yery effective. 

5873. Cure for Toothache. Take 
equal parts of burnt alum and salt. Saturate 
a piece of cotton, cover with the mixture, and 
put in the tooth. Or saturate a small bit of 
clean cotton wool with a strong solution of 
ammonia, and apply it immediately to the 
affected tooth. Immediate relief will be ex- 
perienced. 

5874. Perry's Essence for the Tooth- 
ache. A concentrated tincture of pellitory 
made with about equal parts of ether and 
rectified spirit largely charged with camphor. 
Though a nostrum, it is an excellent prepara- 
tion. {See No. 4532.) 

5875. Pieste's Toothache Essence. 
This is laudanum mixed with about twice its 
volume of liquor of ammonia specific gravity 
.960. Applied on lint, like other toothache 
drops, it often rapidly relieves the pain. 

5876. Cottereau's Odontalgic Es- 
sence. A nearly saturated ethereal solu- 
tion of camphor, mixed with -^^ to -^^ its vol- 
ume of liquor of ammonia (specific gravity 
.880 to 882). A verv useful preparation. 

5877. To KHl the Nerve of a HoUow 
Tooth. Take i drachm white oxide of ar- 
senic ; 1 dpachm sulphate of morphia ; mix 
with a little creosote, and apply to the cavity 
of the tooth, previously cleansed. 

5878. Tooth Cements. These are pre- 
parations for filling up cavities, cracks, &c., 
in defective teeth, the object being either to 
restore or preserve them, or to cure or pre- 
vent toothache. {See Nos. 3549, &c.) 

5879. Diamond Tooth Cement. 
Take of anhydrous phosphoric acid in fine 
powder, 12 grains; pure caustic lime, fresh 
burnt, and in. fine powder, 13 grains ; mix 
them rapidly, by trituration, in a porcelain or 
wedgwood-ware mortar, and apply the pow- 
der, in the dry state, as quickly as possible, 
as it soon becomes moist. The powder, after 
being well pressed in the crack or cavity of 
the tooth, is smoothed off with the finger 
moistened with a drop of water. It soon ac- 
quires great hardness, is white, very durable, 
and does not become discolored by age. 



The compound that results from the combi- 
nation of the ingredients almost exactly re- 
sembles the natural earthy matter of the 
teeth, and is, therefore, unobjectionable. Its 
color closely resembles, and will soon become 
that of the teeth to wliich it is applied, pro- 
vided they possess ordinary whiteness. To 
cause it at once to imitate the color of the 
teeth, the mixture may be rendered slightly 
grey by adding to it a mere trace of carbon. 
This may be done by holding the pestle, used 
to mix the powders, over the flame of a can- 
dle or lamp, for an instant. A faint yellow- 
ish shade may be given to it by a trace of 
sulphuret of cadmium or a little yellow ochre ; 
and a faint shade of red or flesh-color by a 
trace of jeweler's rouge or peroxide of iron, or 
a very little light-red (burnt yellow-ochre). 
This stopping, from its composition and other 
qualities, is, perhaps, superior to all others ; 
but, except in the case of hollow teeth, its 
use requires some degree of skill and expert- 
ness, which is, however, readily acquired. 

5880. Gutta-Percha Stopping for 
Teeth. This is pure, uncolored, native 
gutta-percha. A small piece is softened in 
hot water, and at once applied. It answers 
well for filling hollow teeth with central 
cavities, and is efficient and durable. 

5881. White Gutta-Percha. The 
Journal of Applied Chemistry gives the fol- 
lowing method of preparing this, for dentists* 
use and for other purposes. 4 ounces of pure 
gutta-percha are digested with 5 pounds of 
methyl-chloroform until the solution is thin 
enough to pass through filtering paper. It is 
then filtered (an additional pound of chloro- 
form will facilitate this), and should then be 
clear and nearly colorless. Alcohol is now 
added in sufficient quantity to precipitate the 
gutta-percha ■ in a voluminous white mass, 
which is washed with alcohol, pressed in a 
cloth, and dried in the air. It must finally be 
boiled in water in a porcelain vessel for half 
an hour, and, while still hot, rolled into sticks. 
The chloroform can be separated from the 
alcohol by adding water, and the alcohol 
recovered by distillation. {See No. 1725.) 

5882. How to Fill or Plug Teeth. 
One of the most important points to attend 
to in filling or stopping teeth, is that each 
tooth must be thoroughly cleaned out, and 
wiped perfectly dry, before inserting or ap- 
plying the cement, of whatever kind it be. 
Without careful attention to this matter, the 
cement will not adhere, or will soon become 
loose, and drop out or off, and the operation 
prove a failure. "W^hen a defective tooth is 
conveniently situated it may often be stopped 
by the party himself, by the exercise of a 
little skill and care, particularly if it be a hol- 
low one with a clearly defined central cavity. 
When the reverse is the case, it is generally 
necessary that the operator should be a sec- 
ond party. A hollow tooth with a central 
and nearly circular hole in it may, in general, 
be effectively filled with a plug of dry soft 
wood, or of bone or ivory. If the hole be 
not round, it may be made so. Such stop- 
ping will often last for years. 

5883. To Remove Tattoo Marks firom 
the Skin. Inquiry is frequently made for 
methods for the successful removal of tattoo 
marks in the skin. While these are generally 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



509 



asserted to be indelible, if produced by the 
insertion of some carbonaceous matter, a cor- 
respondent of tbe Chemical Kews says that 
the marks disappeared by beins: first Tvell 
rubbed with a salve of pure acetic acid and 
lard, then with a solution of potash, and 
finally with hydrochloric acid. 

5884. To Remove Freckles. If the 
exact cause of freckles were known, a remedy 
for them might be found. A chemist in Mo- 
ravia, observing the bleaching effect of mer- 
curial preparations, infeiTcd that the growth 
of a local parasitical fungus was the cause of 
the discol;)ration of the skin, which extended 
and ripened its spores in the warmer season. 
Knowing that sulpho-carbolate of zinc is a 
deadly enemy to all parasitic vegetation (it- 
self not being otherwise injurious), he applied 
this salt for the purpose of removing the 
freckles. The compound consists of 2 parts 
of sulpho-carbolate of zinc, 25 parts of dis- 
tilled glycerine, 25 parts of rose-water, and 5 
parts of scented alcohol, and is to be applied 
twice daily for from half an hour to an hour, 
then washed off with cold water. Protection 
against the sun by veiling and other means is 
recommended, and in addition, for persons of 
pals complexion, some mild preparation of 
iron. 

5885. To Remove Liver-spots. These 
are well-defined, brownish blotches on the 
skin, and generally appear on the forehead. 
Notwithstanding their name, they do not 
always proceed from the liver alone, but usu- 
ally from some derangement or unhealthy 
state of the internal organs. In the first 
place, the general health must be thoroughly 
cared for, in order to have a fair prospect of 
success in any external local application. A 
pomade composed of 20 grains of sulphate of 
zinc and 1 ounce elder-flower ointment should 
be applied over-night to the spot, entirely 
within its limits, and not on the surrounding 
skin. In the morning wash it off with white 
castile soap and water, and bathe it repeated- 
ly during the day with a lotion composed of 
30 grains citric acid and ^ pint infusion of 
roses. The spots should yield to this treat- 
ment in about 2 weeks, and their recurrence 
may be prevented by a regular use of borax 
and glycerine lotion. {See No. 4839.) 

5886. To Remove Birtli-marks. Mix 
together, with frequent agitation, 1 part pure 
carbonate of potash, 4 parts rose-water, 2 
parts Hoffmann's Life Balsam {see No. 5112), 
and 2 parts distilled water. Apply to the 
mark twice a day, shaking the bottle well 
before using. (Hager.) (See Xo. b82Q.) 

5887. To Disguise the Taste of Med- 
icines. Instead of attempting to flavor the 
medicine, or to remove the disagreeable taste 
from the mouth after taking the medicine, it 
is far more efficacious to prepare the mouth 
beforehand with some strong aromatic flavor, 
such as orange or lemon peel, or cachou aro- 
matise. (See No. 1336.) In preparing the 
mouth for bitters, liquorice is the only siceet 
that should be used, all others creating a pe- 
culiarly disagreeable compound taste. 

5888. To Disguise the Taste of Cas- 
tor Oil. Castor or cod-liver oil may be taken 
with porter by pouring a little in the bottom 
of the glass, and then a little on top of the 
oil, but the best method of covering the nau- 



seous flavor is to put a table-spoonful oi 
strained orange-juice in a wine-glasp, poui 
the castor oil into the cenire of the juice, and 
then squeeze a few drops of lemon-juice upop 
the top of the oil, and nib some of the juicf 
on the edge of the glass. 

5889. French Method of Administer* 
ing Castor Oil to Children. Pour the oil 
into a pan over a moderate fire ; break an egg 
into it, and stir up ; when it is done, add a 
little salt or sugar, or some currant jelly. 
The sick child will eat it agreeably, and never 
discover the disguise. 

5890. To Destroy the Taste of Cas- 
tor on. A good way is to beat the castor 
oil with the white of an egg until both are 
thoroughlv mixed. 

5891 . To Disguise the Taste of Epsom 
Salts. Pej)permmt water almost prevents 
the nauseous taste of Epsom salts ; a strong 
solution of extract of liquorice covers the 
disagreeable taste of aloes; milk, that of 
Peruvian bark ; and cloves, that of senna. 

5892. Agreeable Mode of Taking 
Senna. Dr. Linthner says that senna leaves 
(1 or 2 drachms to 1 or 2 cups of water) 
should be allowed to infuse all night in cold 
water. With the strained infusion coffee is 
prepared next morning, as if with water ; and 
an aperient which does not taste of senna, 
and does not cause griping, is thus produced. 

5893. Restoration of Persons Appa- 
rently Dead from Drowning. The follow- 
ing rules for the restoration ot persons appa- 
rently dead from drowning, are given by Pro- 
fessor Benjamin Howard, of this city, and 
sanctioned by the Metropolitan Board of 
Health of the City of Xew York. 

I. Unless in danger of freezing, never move 
the patient from the spot where first rescued, 
nor allow bystanders to screen off the fresh 
air, but instantly wipe clean the mouth and 
nostrils, rip and remove all clothing to a little 
below the waist, rapidly rub and dry the 
exposed part, and give two quick, smarting 
slaps on the stomach with your open hand. 
If this does not succeed immediately, proceed 
according to the following rules to perform 
artificial Isreathing : 

II. Turn the patient on his face, a large 
bundle of tightly rolled clothing being placed 
beneath his stomach, and press heavily over it 
upon the spine for half a minute. 

III. Turn the patient quickly again on his 
back; the roll of clothing being so placed 
beneath it as to make the short ribs bulge 
prominently forward, and raise them a little 
higher than the level of the mouth. Let 
some bystander hold the tip of the tongue out 
of one comer of the mouth with a dry hand- 
kerchief, and hold both hands of the patient 
together, the arms being stretched forcibly 
back above the head. 

lY. Kneel astride the patient's hips, and 

with your hands resting on his stomach, 

spread out your fingers so that you can grasp 

the waist about the short ribs. Now throw 

all your weight steadily forward upon your 

hands, while you at the same time squeeze 

the ribs deeply, as if you wished to force 

j everything in the chest upwards out of the 

I mouth. Continue this while you can slowly 

I count — one — two — three ; then suddenly let 

1 go, with a final push, which springs you back 



510 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



to your first kneeling position. Remain erect 
npon your knees •while you can count — one — 
two ; then throw your weight forward again 
«LS before, repeating the entire motions — at 
first about 4 or 5 times a minute, increasing 
the rate gradually to about 15 times a minute, 
and continuing with the same regularity of 
time and motion as is observed in the natural 
breathing which you are imitating. 

V. Continue this treatment, though appa- 
rently unsuccessful, for 2 hours, untO. the pa- 
tient begins to breathe ; and for a while after 
this, help him by well-timed pressure to 
deepen his first gasps into full, deep breaths; 
while the fTJ3tion of the limbs, which should, 
ii possible, have been kept up during the 
entire process, is now farther increased. 

TI. As soon as the breathing has become 
perfectly natural, strip the patient rapidly and 
completely. "Wrap him in blanliets only. 
Put him in bed in a room comfortably warm, 
but with a free circulation of fresh air, and, 
except for the administration of internal treat- 
ment, let him have perfect rest. Give him a 
little hot bmndy and water, or other stimu- 
lant at hand, every 10 or 15 minutes for the 
first hour, and as often thereafter as may 
seem expedient. 

5894. Abstinence as a Cure for Dis- 
ease. Disease may often be cured by absti- 
nence from all food, especially if the disorders 
have been produced by luxurious living and 
repletion. The latter overtaxes nature, and 
it rebels against such treatment. Indigestion, 
giddiness, headache, mental depression, &c., 
are often the effects of greediness in meat and 
drink. Omitting one, two, or three meals, 
allows the system to rest, to regain strength, 
and allows the clogged organs to dispose of 
their burdens. The practice of drug-taking 
to cleanse the stomach, though it rnay give 
the needed relief, always weakens the system, 
while abstinence often secures the same result, 
and yet does no injury. 

5895. Antidotes for Poison. It need 
hardly be said that medical assistance must 
be sent for at once ; but, meanwhile, as it is 
of the greatest importance to administer some 
aid as soon as possible, the subjoined direc- 
tions may be followed. THien any poisonous 
or other hurtful thing has been swallowed, 
take instantly half a glass of water — cold, not 
hot — put into it a heaping tea-spoonful of salt, 
and another of ground mustard; stir it rapidly 
3 or 4 times; if there is no salt at hand, use 
mustard alone ; catch the patient by the nose 
and toss it down. The reason for using cold 
water is that, in the hurry, the water may be 
hotter than thought for, and may scald the 
throat, causing eventual, if not instant death. 
The salt and mustard make the speediest 
emetic Icnown, and are almost everywhere to 
be had in a moment. It brings up the con- 
tents of the stomach more or less complete- 
ly. And for fear that some remnant may be 
left, administer a cupful of strong coffee, and 
then the white of 2 or 3 raw eggs, either first, 
as may be the quickest had, because these are 
two domestic articles which are found in 
every house, and nullify the effects of a 
greater number of virulent poisons than per- 
hap-^ any othpr article'^ known. (J^aJJ.) 

5896. Treatment in Cases of Poison- 
toga Dr. Hall says : Whatever is done must 



be done quickly. The instant a person is 
known to have swallowed poison by design or 
accident, give water to drink, cold or warm, 
as fast as possible, a gallon or more at a time, 
and, as fast as vomited, drink more ; tepid wa- 
ter is best, as it opens the pores of the skin 
and promotes vomiting, and thus gives the 
speediest cure to the poisonous article. If 
pains begin to be felt in the bowels, it shows 
that part at least of the poison has passed 
downwards; then large and repeated injec- 
tions of tepid water should be given, the 
object in both cases being to dilute the poison 
as quickh^ and as largely 'as possible. Do not 
wait for warm water — take that which is 
nearest at hand, cold or warm, for every 
second of time saved is of immense import- 
ance ; at the same time send instantly for a 
physician, and as soon as he comes turn the 
case into his hands, telling him what you have 
done. This simple fact cannot be too widely 
published ; it is not meant to say that drink- 
ing a gallon or two of simple water will cure 
every case of poisoning; but it will cure many, 
and benefits all by its rapidly diluting quality. 
(Journal of Health.) A short summary of 
the antidotes resorted to in reference to partic- 
ular poisons is given below. They should, of 
cource, be administered as speedily as possible. 

5897. Antidotes for Acid Poisons. 
Hydrochloric acid; nitric acid; oxalic acid 
(often mistaken for Epsom salts) ; acetic acid. 
For this form of poison, give quickly large 
draughts of chalk, whiting, magnesia, or soap 
and water, about as thick as cream ; followed 
by albuminous diluents, such as milk, and 
white of egg mixed with water. Or, if these 
cannot be procured at once, warm water; 
and promote vomiting by the emetic recom- 
mended in ISTo. 5305. 

5898. Antidotes for Arsenic. The 
first endeavor, in caces of poisoning by arsenic, 
should be to remove, if possible, the poison 
from the stomach; for this purpose strong 
emetics or the stomach-pump should be had 
recourse to, after which the hydrated peroxide 
of iron in a dose thirty times greater than that 
of the poison may be administered. (See No. 
4155.) 

5899. Antidotes for Baryta in all its 
Forms. Sulphate of magnesia (Epsom 
salts), sulphate cf soda (Glauber's salts), or 
any alkaline or earthy sulphate. 

5900. Antidotes for Antimony, or 
Tartar Emetic. Administer large doses of 
warm water to induce vomiting {see Xo. 5896) ; 
give the powder of Peruvian bark, and, as 
soon as it can be prepared, the infusion of 
bark, which decomposes the tartar emetic. 

5901. Antidotes for Alkalies, So 
Potash, Ammonia, &c. Yinegar 
lemon-juice are the best antidotes for potash, 
and all other alkaline poisons. A glassful of 
water, mixed with a table-spoonful of vinegar 
or lemon-juice, should be given frequently; 
and in defect of these, simple water, in such 
quantities as to cause vomiting. Emetics, 
and other irritating means, are to be avoided. 
Olive oil may also be administered. 

5902. Antidotes for Corrosive Sub- 
limate, or Calomel. The white of eggs 
beaten up with cold water is the best antidote 
for these. If eggs are not at once to be had, 
milk may be used with great success. "Warm 



da, 

and 



MEDICAL FECEIPTS. 



511 



water should be given aftenrards, to induce 
romiting, also tree purging in most instances. 

5903. Antidote for Corrosive Subli- 
mate. In case of poisoning by corrosive 
sublimate, if a dose of the hydrated protosul- 
phuret of iron (see Xo. 4149) be administered 
It instantly renders tbe poison innocuous. 
This antidote is almost useless unless talcen 
within 15 or 20 minutes after swallowing the 
poison. 

5904. Antidotes for Verdigris and 
Sulphate of Copper. The treatment is 
the same as for corrosive sublimate. {See 
Xo. 5902,) 

5905. Antidotes for Nitrate of Silver. 
Same as for corrosive sublimate (see Xo. [ 
5902), with copious draughts of warm water j 
and salt. (See Xo. 5895.) ! 

5906. Antidote for Phosphorus, j 
Same as for corrosive sublimate. (See Xo. 1 
5902.) Phosphorus is the principal ingredient 
used in the manufacture of matches. 

5907. Antidote for Sulphate of Zinc. 
Solution of carbonate of soda; also cream, 
butter, and chalk, are good antidotes for sul- 
phate of zinc (white vitriol). Give water 
after the antidotes. 

5908. Antidotes for Lead. Litharge, 
red lead, u-lnte lead, sugar of lead, and 
Goulard's extract. In the first stage, or the 
irritant form of injury, administer sulphate of 
magnesia, potash, or soda. The phosphate of 
soda is a good antidote. TVTien palsy super- 
venes, the regimen must be regulated care- 
fully. 

5909. Antidotes for Opium and its 
Preparations. Emetics of the sulphate of 
zinc, 5 drachm or 2 scruples; the stomach 
pump, or injections of tartar emetic, must be 
employed to bring away the poison. The 
patient should be constantly roused by drag- 
ging about the floor, throwing cold water in 
the face, and giving ammonia, assafcetida, and 
stnmg coffee. 

5910. New Antidote for Opium. In 
a case of accidental poisoning by aa overdose 
of morphia, the administration of 13 drops of 
^N'orwood's tincture of green hellebore was 
followed by a complete cure. The narcotic 
had obtained such mastery over the unfortu- 
nate patient that the pupils of the eyes had 
contracted, and the jaws had to be forced 
open to give the medicine, which was mixed 
with 2 ounces of brandy. All appearance 
of poisonous effects had vanished in an hour. 

5911. Antidotes for Prussic Acid. 
Small quantities of ammonia water diluted 
with 10 or 12 parts of water; also the fumes 
inhaled. The joint administration of carbon- 
ate of potash and sulphate of iron. This has 
been lately very strongly recommended. 
Cold affusion should be adopted in all cases, 
and is almost of itself a certain cure, if em- 
ployed before the convulsive stage is over: 
and it i.^ often successful even during the 
stage of insensibility and paralysis. Artificial 
respiration should also be attempted. Un- 
fortunately, the poisonous action of prussic 
acid is so rapid that life is usually extinct 
before antidotes can be applied. (SeeXo.^dVi.) 

5912. Antidotes for Strychnia and 
Nux-vomica. Evacuate the stomach with 
the stomach pump or emetics. (See Xo. 
5896. ■) No antidote is known. 



5913. Antidotes for Carbonic Acid 

Gas. WTien asphyxia from the inhalation of 
carbonic acid gas occurs, the patient should 
be immediately removed into the open air, 
and placed upon his back with the head 
slightly raised. Cold water should be dashed 
over the body, hot water applied to the feet, 
and ammonia to the nostrils. Brandy and wa- 
ter, and other stimulants, may be adminis- 
tered. Friction on the surface of the body is 
also recommended. If the patient has ceased 
to breathe, artificial respiration should be at- 
tempted. This may be done by pressing 
down the ribs, forcing up the diaphragm, 
and then suddenly withdrawing the pres- 
sure. (See Xo. 5893, Enle V.) 

5914. Antidotes for Poisonous Mush- 
rooms. The best antidote to poisonous 
mushrooms is tannin, or an infusion or de- 
coction of galls. A stnmg emetic should also 
be given to remove them from the stomach. 

5915. Antidote for Carbolic Acid. 
Dr. Crace Calvert states that the best anti- 
dote after the stomach pump i^ large doses of 
olive or almond oil, with a little castor oil. 
Oil is a solvent, and consequently a diluent 
of carbolic acid, and may be used to stop the 
corrosive effect of the acid when the action 
on the skin is too violent. Dr. Husemann, of 
Gottingen, suggests, for counteracting its 
effects on the stomach, a new preparation 
which he calls calcaria saccharata (saccha- 
rate of lime), prepared by dissolving 16 
parts refined sugar in 40 parts water, and 
adding 5 parts slacked lime. Digest the mix- 
ture for 3 days, stir occasionally, filter, and 
evaporate to dryness. 

5916. Antidote for Poisoning by- 
Chlorine. Chlorine gas is an irritative 
poison, and the best antidotes are said to be 
ammoniacal gas, or the vapor of warm water, 
of wine, or of ether. The effects of chlorine 
have been known to pass off in the open air; 
leaving, in a certain instance, a violent cough, 
which disappeared in a few liours. 

5917. Hodgen's Simple Stomach 
Pump. Attach 4 feet of india-rubber tubing 
to a stomach tube, fill both with water by 
simply dipping it in the liquid, end first, then 
compressing the elastic tube between the 
thumb and finger to keep the fluid from run- 
ning out, introduce the stomach tube down 
the throat of the patient, lower the outer end 
of the elastic tube, and the contents of the 
stomach pour out as readily as if from an open 
vessel, the rubber tube acting as a syphon. 
When the fluid ceases to flow, dip the outer 
end of the tube beneath the surface of the 
water, elevate the vessel containing it above 
the level of the patient's mouth, and the stom- 
ach is soon filled ; lower again the outer end 
of the tube and the stomach is emptied. This 
can, of course, be repeated as often as is ne- 
cessary. The advantages claimed for this 
simple contrivance arc, that it is of speedy 
and easy application, has no valves to become 
obstructed or deranged, and is far less expen- 
sive than a stomach pump. 

5918. Cure for Ulcers Caused bv 
Cyanide of Potassium. This substance is 
used in electroplating and other arts, and 
sometimes occasions ulceus on the hands. Pro- 
tosulphate of iron in fine powder, ground in 
raw linseed oil, is recommended by a prac- 



512 



MEDICAL RECEIPTS. 



tical man, as the most effectual application 
for relieving the pain and healing the sores. 

5919. Treatment for Hydrophobia. 
First dose, 1 ounce elecampane root, boiled in 
1 pint milk until reduced to i pint. Second 
dose (to be taken 2 days after the first), 1| 
ounces elecampane root in 1 pint of milk, 
boiled as the first. Third dose, the same as 
the second (to be taken 2 days after) ; in all, 
3 doses. Mr. J. "W. Woolston, a respectable 
citizen of Philadelphia, vouches for the above 
receipt. He says : "I have known of its being 
tried in one case, and no inconvenience has 
been felt. A friend of mine, of whom I 
obtained the receipt, knew of 20 instances 
where it was successfully given." "We give 
the above for what it is worth, but we have 
no great faith in it. 

5920. Cure for Hydrophobia. Cut 
out completely the wounded part before the 
poison can be absorbed. It is recommended, 
m order to do this quickly and thoroughly, 
that a stick be whittled to a shape resembling 
a dog's tooth, and inserted in the wound. This 
supports the part, and renders the cutting 
more easy and certain. This should be fol- 
lowed by cauterization, either by the use 
of a hot iron, or some strong caustic substance. 

6921. To Remove the Virus in Hy- 
drophobia. Suck the bitten part well, spit- 
ting out the fluid obtained from the wound ; 
then apply some strong nitric acid, or lunar 
caustic, and bind the part up as tightly as the 
patient can bear it. Only one cauterization is 
needed. 

5922. Youatt's Cxire for Hydrophobia. 
Touatt (the great horse doctor) says he has 
been bitten eight or ten times and always 
cured himself by rubbing nitrate of silver in 
the wound. It should be applied as soon 
after the accident as may be. In 6 weeks the 
virus is disseminated through the system and 
then hope is gone. 

5923. Preventive of Hydrophobia. 
The production of profuse perspiration is 
sometimes of great use in preventing the bad 
effects of a bite, so it should be tried. 

5924. Bibron's Antidote to the Poison 
of the Rattlesnake. Iodide of potassium, 4 
grains; corrosive sublimate, 2 grains; bromine, 
5 drachms. 10 drops of this mixture, diluted 
with 1 or 2 table-spoonfuls of brandy, wine, 
or whiskey, constitute a dose, to be repeated 
if necessary. It must be kept in glass-stop- 
pered phials, well secured, as the air will af- 
fect it. The salts may, in case of emergency, 
be first dissolved in a little water, before add- 
ing the bromine, as this dissolves them very 
slowly. This is a valuable remedy. Dr. 
Hammond, in speaking of the remedy, says 
that during a recent expedition to the Kocky 
Mountains, he had frequent opportunities to 
test its efficiency. The results were satisfac- 
tory, and he thinks that, when taken in time, it 
may be entirely depended upon in the poison- 
ous wounds of the rattlesnake. 

5925. To Extract the Poison from a 
Rattlesnake Bite. The most direct and 
efficient means of counteracting the absorp- 
tion of the poison is suction, and this is most 
effectually done by exhausting a cupping- 
glass over the wound. The cupping-glass 
must be applied as soon after the injury as 
possible, and kept exhausted untU all danger 



It has been proved that the bites 
of vipers, both on man and animals, were ren- 
dered entirely harmless by the application of 
these glasses. 

5926. Cure for Snake Bites. As many 
as 8000 persons die annually in British India 
and Burmah, from the effects of snake bites. 
The Inspector of Police to the Bengal Govern- 
ment reports that of 939 cases in which am- 
monia was freely administered, 702 victims 
have recovered, and in the cured iastances, 
the remedy was not administered till about 3^ 
hours after the attack, on the average. In the 
fatal cases, the corresponding duration of time 
was 4i hours. 

5927. To Cure the Stings of Hornets, 
Wasps, Bees, and Spiders. Swelling may 
instantly be arrested by an application of 
equal parts common salt and bicarbonate of 
soda, dissolved in warm water, and well rub- 
bed in on the place bitten or stung. (See also 
No. 5929.) 

5928. Cure for Stings of "Wasps, &c. 
Eub the part affected with a mixture of 1 part 
spirits of hartshorn and 2 parts olive oil. 

5929. To Cure the Bites of Insects. 
Dissolve 1 ounce borax in 1 pint water that 
has been boiled and allowed to cool. Instead 
of plain water, distilled rose-water, elder, or 
orange-flower water is more pleasant. The 
bites are to be dabbed with the solution as 
long as there is any irritation. For bees' or 
wasps' stings the borax solution may be made 
of twice the above strength. 

5930. To Cure Poisoning by Poison 
Ivy, Oak, or Sumach. Bathe the poi- 
soned part thoroughly with hot water, without 
soap. When dry, paint the place liberally, 2 
to 4 times a day, with a feather dipped in 
strong tincture of lobelia. Avoid bringing 
the tincture in contact with any fresh wound 
or excoriation. 

5931. Remedy for Poison Ivy, &c. 
In some cases, where lobelia {see last receipt) 
does not succeed quickly, an application, in a 
similar manner, of fluid extract of gelseminum 
sempervirens (yellow jessamine) will rarely 
fail to cure. Both of these are excellent 
remedies, generally acting like magic. 

5932. Remarks on Poison Ivy, &c. 
Poison ivy, &c., act very differently upon 
different people. Some people are entirely 
proof against its effects, and can, with im- 
punity, rub it on without any ill effect. 
Others are poisoned by simple contact with 
clothing that has touched it. This difference 
of susceptibility to the poison seems to apply 
equally to the remedies, as what will cure one 
person has little or no effect on another. 

5933. Applications for Poison Ivy. 
Yarious applications have been used for tn» 
same purpose ; bathing the parts with a decoc- 
tion of hemlock boughs, or of oak leaves ; or 
with a table- spoonful of copperas (sulphate ©f 
iron) in a small tea-cupful of boiling water ; 
or painting over with fresh lime-water; or 
rubbing wet salt on the poisoned part ; or 
bathing the parts affected freely with spirit of 
nitre. If the blisters be broken, so as to 
allow the nitre to penetrate, more than a sin- 
gle application is rarely necessary. It will 
scarcely be possible to fail in finding, in one 
or other of the remedies here given, a means 
of cure suited to the party affected. 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



513 



Tables of "Weiglits, Mea- 
sures, &C. The following tables 
have been compiled for the purpose of aiding 
the reader to determine with facility, the 
relative values of different weights and mea- 
sures ; and to furnish in a convenient group a 
mass of valuable information that would 
otherwise have to be sought for in a number 
of volumes not easy of access. Most of the 
tables have been made expressly for this 
work, and all of them have been carefully 
recalculated, revised, and corrected by a com- 
petent mathematician. 

5935. Avoirdupois "Weight is em- 
ployed for weighing all goods, except those 
for which Troy or Apothecaries weight are 
used. The ton is subdivided into hundred- 
weights, quarters, pounds, ounces, and 
drachms. {See No. 6031.) Some goods are 
sold by the hundred-weight of 100 pounds, 
instead of the hundred- weight (cwt.) of 112 
pounds; a ton composed of 20 hundreds 
would then contain only 2000 pounds. The 
pound avoirdupois consists of 7000 Troy 
grains. The drachm avoirdupois is therefore 
27.34375 Troy grains. The standard avoirdu- 
pois pound of the United States is the weight 
of 27.7015 cubic inches of distilled water, at 
39.83° Fahr., the barometer being at 30 inches. 



Ton. Cwt. 
1 = 20 
1 



5936. 



Qrs. 



Lbs. 



Oz. 



Dr. 



Avoirdupois 
1 Ton 
1 Cwt. 
IQr. 
ILb. 
1 Oz. 
IDr. 

5937. 



80 = 2,240 = 35,840 =. 573,440 

=r 4 = 112 = 1,792 = 28,672 

1 = 28 = 448 = 7,168 

1 = 16 = 256 

1 = 16 

Equivalents of Avoirdupois 

in Troy Weight. 



Lbs. 

2922 

146 

34 

1 



Oz. 

2 

1 



2 



Dwt. Grains. 
13 

6 

6 

11 

18 

1 



8 
16 
16 
16 

5^ 
3H 



Value of Avoirdupois Weight 
in Apothecaries Measure. 

1 pound = 15 2 53.3622 

1 ounce = 7 40.8351 

5938. Value of Avoirdupois in Apa 

thecaries Weight. 

Avoirdupois. Apothecaries. 

ib 1 3 3 Gr. 
1 pound =12 4 2 

1 ounce = 7 171 

1 drachm = 1 1^\ 

In the new British Pharmacopoeia the weights 
are expressed in pounds, ounces, and grains 
avoirdupois. {See No. 6031.) 







5939. 


Decimal Equivalents of lbs., 


qrs., and cwt. 






qra. 


lbs. 


cwt. 


qrs. lbs. cwt. 


qrs. lbs 


. cwt. 


qrs. 


lbs 


. cwt. 





0^= 


=.0044 


1 0=.25 


2 0= 


=.5 


3 


0= 


=.75 





1 


.0089 


1 1 .2589 


2 1 


.5089 


3 


1 


.7589 





2 


.0178 


1 2 .2678 


2 2 


.5178 


3 


2 


.7678 





3 


.0268 


1 3 .2768 


2 3 


.5268 


3 


3 


.7768 





4 


.0357 


1 4 .2857 


2 4 


.5357 


3 


4 


.7857 





5 


.0446 


1 5 .2946 


2 5 


.5446 


3 


5 


.7946 





6 


.0535 


1 6 .3035 


2 6 


.5535 


3 


6 


.8035 





7 


.0625 


1 7 .3125 


2 7 


.5625 


3 


7 


.8125 





8 


.0714 


1 8 .3214 


2 8 


.5714 


3 


8 


.8214 





9 


.0803 


1 9 .3303 


2 9 


.5803 


3 


9 


.8303 





10 


.0892 


1 10 .3392 


2 10 


.5892 


3 


10 


.8392 





11 


.0982 


1 11 .3482 


2 11 


.5982 


3 


11 


.8482 





12 


.1071 


1 12 .3571 


2 12 


.6077 


3 


12 


.8571 





13 


.1160 


1 13 .3660 


2 13 


.6160 


3 


13 


.8660 





14 


.125 


1 14 .375 


2 14 


.625 


3 


14 


.875 





15 


.1339 


1 15 .3839 


2 15 


.6339 


3 


15 


.8839 





16 


.1429 


1 16 .3929 


2 16 


.6429 


3 


16 


.8929 





17 


.1518 


1 17 .4018 


2 17 


.6518 


3 


17 


.9018 





18 


.1607 


1 18 .4107 


2 18 


.6607 


3 


18 


.9107 





19 


.1696 


1 19 .4196 


2 19 


.6696 


3 


19 


.9196 





20 


.1786 


1 20 .4286 


2 20 


.6786 


3 


20 


.9286 





21 


.1875 


1 21 .4375 


2 21 


.6875 


3 


21 


.9375 





22 


.1964 


1 22 .4464 


2 22 


.6964 


3 


22 


.9464 





23 


.2054 


1 23 .4554 


2 23 


.7054 


3 


23 


.9554 





24 


.2143 


1 24 .4643 


2 24 


.7143 


3 


24 


.9643 





25 


.2232 


1 25 .4732 


2 25 


.7232 


3 


25 


.9732 





26 


.2321 


1 26 .4821 


2 26 


.7321 


3 


26 


.9821 


* 


27 


.2411 


1 27 .4911 


2 27 


.7411 


3 


27 


.9911 



5940. Decimal Equivalents of Pounds and Ounces. 



oz. 


lb. 


oz. 


lb. 


oz. 


lb. 


oz. 


lb. 


oz. 


lb. 


f 


.015625 


3 


.1875 


64 


.40625 


10 


.625 


134 


.84375 


h 


.03125 


34 


.21875 


7 


.4375 


104 


.65625 


14 


.875 


f 


.046875 


4 


.25 


74 


.46875 


11 


.6875 


144 


.90625 


1 


.0625 


4i 


.28125 


8 


.5 


114 


.71875 


15 


.9375 


H 


.09375 


5 


.3125 


84 


.53125 


12 


.75 


154 


.96875 


2 


.125 


5i 


.34375 


9 


.5625 


124 


.78125 


16 


1. 


2i 


.15625 


6 


.375 


94 


.59375 


13 


.8125 







514= 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC, 



6941. 



Avoirdupois. 
1 Ton = 
1 Cwt. = 
1 Quarter = 
1 Pound = 
1 Ounce = 
1 Drachm = 



Avoirdupois "Weight Expressed 
in Grams. 

Grams. 
1,015,938.84 = 1.016 MiUiers 
50,796.94 = 5.080 Myriagrams 
12,699.23 = 1.270 Myriagrams 
453.54 = 4.535 Hectograms 
28.34 =2.834 Dekagrams 
1.77 

5942. Troy Weight is used by jewelers 
for weighing gold, silver, platina, and all 
precious stones except the diamond; and is 
the weight adopted by the mint. The pound 
Troy contains 5.760 grains. 

Pound. Ounces. Pennyweights. Grains. 
1 = 12 = 240 = 5760 
1 = 20 = 480 
1 = 24 

1 
5943. Diamond "Weight. Diamonds 
are weighed by a separate method ; the carat, 
equivalent to 3.2 grains Troy, is thus subdi- 
vided. 

Carat. Grains. Parts. Troy Grains. 

1 = 4 = 16 = 3.2 
1 = 4 = .8 
1 = .2 
5944. Troy "Weight Compared with 
Avoirdupois. 

Troy. Avoirdupois. 

Oz. Dr. 

1 Pound = 13 2.65 
1 Ounce =1 1.55 
1 Dwt. = 0.877 

Equivalents of Troy in Apothe- 
caries "Weight. 

Apothecaries. 



6945. 



Troy. 



Gr. 

) 

) 

1 4 

1 

Expressed 



ft 
1 Pound = 1 
1 Ounce = 1 

1 Dwt. = 
1 Grain = 

5946. Troy Weight 

Grams. 
Troy. Grams. 

1 Pound = 373.202, or 3.732 Hectograms 
1 Ounce = 31.100, or 3.110 Dekagrams 
1 Dwt. = 1.555 
1 Grain = .0648, or 6.48 Centigrams. 

5947. Approximate "Values of Troy 
in Metrical "Weight, 



Troy 




-weight. Weight. 


Measure. 


32 oz. = 1 Mlogramme, 


= 1 litre. 


16 oz. = >^ kilog. = 500 grams. 


= .500 •' 


4 oz. = 125 grams, 


= .125 " 


1 oz. = 32 grams. 


= .32 " 


Idr'm. = 4 grams. 


= .4 " 


15 grains = Igram, 


= .1 cubic 



centimetre. 
1}i gr'ns = 1 decigram. 

5948. Assayer's Gold "Weights. The 

richness or purity of gold is expressed in 
carats. Pure gold is spoken of as containing 
24 carats, of 12 grains each ; and any sample 
containing 12, 18, 22, or any other number of 
parts of pure gold, in 24 parts, is said to be of 
so many carats fine. In the process of assay- 
ing gold, the real quantity taken is very 
small, generally 6 or 12 grains; and this is 
termed the ''assay pound." It is nominally 
subdivided into 24 carats^, and each carat into 
4 assay grains, and each grain into quarters. 
"When the assay pound is only 6 grains, the 
quarter of the assay grain will only weigh the 
of a grain; hence the most accurate system 
weighing must be adopted. 



5949. Assayer's Silver Weights. The 

richness or purity of silver is either expressed 
in pennyweights or tfoit- Iii the first 
case, it is supposed that the mass of silver to 
be examined consists of 12 equal parts, caUed 
pennyweights ; so that if an ingot weighs an 
ounce, each of the parts will be -jV of an 
ounce. Hence, if the mass of silver be pure, 
it is called silver of 12 pennyweights; if it 
contain tV of its weight of alloy, it is called 
silver of 11 pennyweights; if -^ of its 
weight be alloy, it is called silver of 10 penny- 
weights; and so on in proportion for other 
qualities. It must be observed here, that 
the assayers give the name pennyweight to a 
weight equal to 24 real grains, which must 
not be confounded with their ideal weights. 
The assayer's grains are called fine grains. 
An ingot of fine silver, or silver of 12 penny- 
weights, contains, then, 288 fine grains; if 
this ingot contain yts of alloy, it is said 
to be silver of 11 pennyweights and 23 grains; 
if it contain -^ of alloy, it is said to be 
11 pennyweights, 20 grains, &e. The purity 
of silver is now more frequently expressed in 
TifoTT* which admits of greater accuracy. 
5950. Table for Converting Troy into 
Avoirdupois "Weight, 



Troy 
Ounces. 

1 = 

2 = 

3 = 

4 = 

5 = 

6 = 



127^ 
170 
212^ 
255 



Troy. 




ATOirdupois. 


ft) 




ibOz. ar. 


1 


= 


13 72^ 


2 


— 


1 10 145 


3 


= 


2 7 2171 


4 


— 


3 4 290 


5 


= 


4 1 362i 


6 


= 


4 14 435 


7 


= 


5 12 70 


8 


= 


6 9 1421 


9 


= 


7 6 215 


10 


= 


8 3 287i 


11 


— 


9 360 


12 


1= 


9 13 432^ 


13 


— 


10 11 67i 


14 


— 


11 8 140 


15 


= 


12 5 212^ 


16 


— 


13 2 285 


17 


= 


13 15 3571 



Troy Avoirdupois 

Ounces. Ounces. Grains. 

7 = 7 



8 

9 

10 

12 

13 



297i 
340 
382^ 
425 

30 

72i 



175 Troy ounces are equal to 192 avoirdupois. 

Troy. Avoirdupois. 

ib ft, Oz. Gr. 

18 = 14 12 430 

19 = 15 10 65 

20 = 16 7 137i 
30 = 24 10 425 
40 = 32 14 275 
50 = 41 2 125 
60 = 49 5 412^ 
70 = 57 9 262^ 
80 = 65 13 112i 
90 = 74 400 

100 = 82 4 250 
175 = 144 
200 = 164 9 62i 
300 = 246 10 312i 
400 = 329 2 125 
LQO = 411 6 375 
1000 = 822 13 3121 
5951. Apothecaries "Weight is a sub- 
division of the Troy pound into ounces, 
drachms, scruples, and grains. It is used in 
compounding medicines, and is the officinal 
standard of the TJ. S. Pharmacopoeia. 



ib 
1 = 



12 = 
1 = 



3 

96 = 



3 

288 

24 

3 

1 



Grs. 

57G0 

480 

60 

20 

1 



5952. Apothecaries "Weight Compared 
with Avoirdupois "Weight. 



Apothecaries. 

1 Pound 
1 Ounce 
1 Drachm 
1 Scruple 



Avoirdupois. 
Oz. 
13 

1 



Dr. 
2.65 
1.55 
2.19 
0.73 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



515 



5953. Apothecaries Weight Compared 

with Troy Weight. 
Apothecaries. Troy. 

Lb. Oz. Dwt. Gr. 
1 Pound = 10 

1 Ounce = 10 

1 Drachm = 2 12 

1 Scruple = 20 

5954. Value of Apothecaries Weight 
in Apothecaries Measure. 

Weight fl /3 W 

1 Pound = 12 5 7.2238 
1 Ounce =10 25.6020 
1 Drachm =01 3.2002 
1 Scruple =00 21.0667 
1 Grain =00 1.0533 

5955. Apothecaries Weight Expressed 

in Grams. 
1 Pound = 3.732 Hectograms 
1 Ounce = 3.110 Dekagrams 
1 Drachm = 3.887 Grams 
1 Scruple = 1.296 " 
1 Grain = 6.4 Centigrams. 

5956. Apothecaries, or Wine Mea- 
sure, is the gallon of liquid measure divided 
into pints, fluid ounces, fluid drachms, and 
minims. The muiim being equivalent to one 
drop of Trater. The symbols or abbreviations 
used in this table vrill be found explained in 
¥o. 5964. In all the tables of comparison be- 
tween apothecaries measure and avoirdupois or 
other weights, the basis assumed is the weight 
of a cubic inch of water at a temperature of 
39.83° Fahr., the barometer being at 30 
inches, and is equivalent to 252.693 Troy 
grains. A grain measure is the capacity or 
bulk of a grain of water weighed at its maxi- 
mum density ; a grain measure of any fluid, 
therefore, weighs more or less than a grain, 
according as its specific gravity is greater or 
less than water at standard temperature. 

Cong. 0. /^ fZ W Cubic Inches. 

1 = 8 = 128 = 1024 = 61440 = 231 

1 = 16 = 128 = 7680 = 28.875 

1 = 8 = 430 = 1.8047 

1 = 60 = .2256 

1 = ,0376 

5957. Graduated 
Fluid Measiires. Fluids 
are measured by means of 
glass vessels having a grad- 
uated scale engraved on 
their sides. These are of 
different capacities, to mea- 
sure 8 ounces, 2 ounces, 1 
ounce and 1 drachm re- 
spectively; the scale of 
each being graduated to re- 
pre^^ent the aliquot parts 
of their respective capaci- 
ties. 




56 
48 
40 
32 
24 
16 









figures on the left of the graduated scale de- 
note ounces, and those on the right, drachms; 
the first ounce being divided into quarters of 
2 drachms each. 2s o. 2 is a 2-ounce measure, 
the first half-ounce being divided into 
drachms. Xos. 3 and 4 are 1 ounce and 1 
drachm measures respectively ; the former is 
graduated in drachms, the first of which is 
divided into halves; the latter is marked in 
divisions of 5 minims each. 

5958. Relative Value of TJ. S. Apothe- 
caries and British Imperial Measure. 
{See No, 6031.) 

U. S. Imperi&I Measure. 
Apotliecaries 

Meiisuie. pints. Fl.oz. Fl.dr. Minims. 

1 Gallon •= .83311 Imp. Gallon, or, 6 13 2 22.85 

1 Pmt = .83311 " Pint, or, 16 5 17.86 

1 Fl.Oz. = 1.04139 " Fl.Oz., or, 1 19.87 

1 Fl.Dr. = 1.04139 " Fl.Dr., or, 1 2.48 

1 Minim = 1.04139 " Minim, or, 1.04 

5959. Apothecaries Measure Expressed 

in Litres. 
1 Gallon = 3.78515 Litres, 

1 Pint = 4.73143 Decilitres 

1 Fluid ounce = 2.95715 Centilitres 
1 Fluid drachm = 3.69644 MilliUtres 
1 Minim = .06160 

5960. Value of Apothecaries Measure 
in Avoirdupois Weight. 

1 Gallon = 8.332698 Pounds 

1 Pint = 1.041587 Pounds 

1 Fluid Ounce = 1.041587 Ounces 

5961. Value of Apothecaries Measure 

in Troy Weight. 

Apothecaries Txoy 'WeipM. 

Measure. Lbs. Oz. Dwt. Grains. 



1 Gallon = 


10 1 10 


8.88 


1 Pint = 


13 3 


19.11 


1 Fluid Ounce = 


18 


23.69 


1 Fluid Drachm = 


2 


8.96 


1 Minim = 




.95 



ISo. 1 reDresents an S-ounce measure ; the 



5962. Value of Apothecaries Measure 
in Apothecaries Weight. 

Measure. ft f 3 3 Grains Grains 

1 Gallon = 10 1 4 8.88 = 58328.886 

1 Pint =13 11 11.11 = 7291.1107 

1 Fluid ounce = 7 1 15.69 = 455.6944 

1 Fluid drachm = 2 16.96 = 56.9618 

1 Minim .9493 

5963. Miscellaneous Measures and 

their Equivalents. 

Tea-spoonful about 1 fl. drachm. 

Dessert " 

Table " 

^ine-glassful 

Tea-cupful 

Breakfast-cupful 

Tumblerful 

Thimbleful 

Pinch (of leaves and flowers) 
Handful 

5964. Signs and Abbreviations Used 
in Medical Prescriptions. 

^ Eecipc Take 

aa Ana Of each. 

ft) Libra Pound 

^ Uncia Ounce 

3 Drachma Drachm 

3 Scrupulus Scruple 

Cong Congius Gallon 

Octarius Pint 

/| Fluid Uncia Fluid Ounce 

/3 Fluid Drachma. Fluid Drachm 

W Minimum Minim 

Chart — Chartula , Small paper 

Coch Cochlear Spoor^ 



2 


IC 


4 


u 


2 fl. 


ounces. 


4 


K 


8 


ii 


8 


a 


1 fl. drachm. 


Idr 


(Troy). 


10 


" 



516 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



Colly r. - . Conyrium Eye-water 

Decot-..Decoctum Decoction 

Ft Fiat Make 

Garg Gargarysma Gargle 

Gr Granum Grain 

Gtt Gutta Drop 

Haust. . . Haustus Draught 

Infus Infusum Infusion 

M Misce Mix 

Mass Massa Mass 

Mist Mistura Mixture 

Pulv Pul vis Powder 

Q. S Quantum Sufficit. Sufficient Quantity 

S Signa Write 

S. S Semis Half 

5965. Strength of Doses at Different 
Ages. The following gradations for doses of 
medicines apportioned to the age of the 
patient were originally drawn up by Gaubius. 
Under k year ^^g- of a full dose. 
" 1 " h 
" 2 years i " 

■t( j^ a 1 (( 

ii "7 <f 1 tt 

u 20 " I ^' 

Above 21 " the full dose. 



63 

77 
100 



Ii 



Dr. Toung gives the following simple for- 
mula: For children under 12 years, the doses 
of most medicines must be diminished in the 
proportion of the age to the age increased by 
12. Thus, at 2 years, the dose will be | of 
that for an adult, viz : 

2 
2 + 12=f 
Sex, temperament, constitutional strength, 
and the habits and idiosyncrasies of individ- 
uals, must be taken into account. Nor does 
the same rule apply to all medicines. Calo- 
mel, for instance, is generally borne better by 
children than by adults ; while opium affects 
them more powerfully, and requires the dose 
to be diminished considerably below that in- 
dicated above. 

5966. Liquid Measure. This is used 
for all liquids which are sold by measure. The 
United States Government standard gallon, 
adopted by the Treasury Department in 1832, 
has a capacity of 231 cubic inches, and con- 
tains 58,372.2 troy grains of distilled water, 
at 39.83° Fahr., the temperature of its max- 
imum density. 

Gal. Quarts. Pints. Gills. Cubic Inch.es. 
1 = 4 = 8 = 32 = 231 

1 = 2=8= 57.75 
1=4=. 28.875 
1 = 7.2175 
A Barrel contains 31 3 gallons. 

A Tierce " 42 " 

A Puncheon " 2 tierces, or 84 ''' 
A Hogshead ''2 barrels, or 63 " 
A Pipe *'2hogsheads,or 126 '' 

A Tun " 2 pipes, or 252 '' 

5967. Liquid Measure Compared 
with Apothecaries Measure. The gallon 
and pint are the same in both measures. A 
liquid gill contains 4 fluid ounces, or 32 fluid 
drachms, or 1920 minims. 



5968. Relative Value of TJ. S. Liquid 
Measure in English Imperial Measure. 

U. states. Imperial. Quart. Pint. Gill. 

1 Gallon = .83311 gal., or 3 2.66 
1 Quart = .83311 qt., or 1 2.66 

1 Pint = .83311 pt., or 3.33 

1 Gill = .83311 gill, or 0.83 

5969. Liquid Measure Expressed in 

Litres. 
1 GaUon = 3.785148 Litres 
1 Quart = 9.46287 Decilitres 

IPint = 4.73143 " 

IGill = 1.18286 

5970. Dry Measure. The Winchestet 
bushel, formerly used in England, contained 
2150.42 cubic inches ; this was superseded in 
1826 by the Imperial bushel of 2218.192 
inches, or 80 pounds of distilled water at 62° 
Fahr., and the barometer at 30 inches. In 
the United States, the Winchester bushel of 
2150.42 inches has been generally adopted, 
which holds 77.627413 pounds of distilled 
water at 39.83° Fahr., the temperature of its 
maximum density, and 30 inches barometric 
pressure. In ISTew York the bushel is de- 
clared to contain 80 pounds distilled water at 
its maximum density, under the mean pres- 
sure of the atmosphere at the level of the 
sea. This would make the ISTew Tork bushel 
contain 2216.128 cubic inches, somewhat less 
than the Imperial bushel, owing to the differ- 
ent standard of temperature of the water. 
The "small measure" used in the markets 
should contain 2 quarts, or J peck. 

Capacity in 
Quarter. Bushels, pecks. Quarts. pints. Cubic Inches. 

1 = 8 = 32 = 256 = 512 = 17203.36 
1 = 4 = 32 = 64 = 2150.42 
1 = 8 = 16 = 537.605 
1 = 2 = 67.200 
1 = 33.600 

5971. Dry Measure expressed in Litres. 
1 Bushel = 35.23661 Litres 
IPeck = 8.80915 *' 

1 Quart = 1.10114 " 

IPint = .55057 " 

5972. Relative Value of United States 
Dry Measure and Imperial Dry Measure. 

Imperial 
United States. Imperial. Bush, pecks. Gals, pints. 

1 Quarter = .96945 quarter, or 7 3 .36 
1 Bushel = .96945 bushel, or 3 1 6.04 
IPeck =.96945 peck, or 1 7.51 

1 Quart = .24236 gallon, or 1.94 

IPint =.96945 pint, or .97 

5973. Weight of a Barrel of Various 
Articles. Some things which are sold by- 
weight or measure are also sold by the Bai-rel, 
the quantity being different for different arti- 
cles. The weights are here given. For rice, 
600 pounds. Flour, 196 pounds. Powder, 25 
pounds. Corn, as bought and sold in Ken- 
tucky, Tennessee, <fec., 5 bushels of shelled 
com. As bought and sold at Few Orleans, a 
flour-baiTel full of ears. Potatoes, as sold in 
New Tork, a barrel contains 2|- bushels. Pork, 
a barrel is 200 poimds, distinguished in quality 
by "clear," "mess," "prime." A barrel of 
beef is the same weight. 

5974. Weight of a Bushel of Various 
Commodities. The term bushel is also ap- 
plied to a certain arbitrary weight varying 
with different articles. "WTieat, beans, pota- 
toes, and clover seed, 60 pounds to the bushel. 
Corn, rye, flax-seed, and onionS; 56 pounds. 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



517 



Com on the cob, 70 pounds. Buckwheat, 52 
pounds. Barley, 48 pounds. Hemp seed, 44 
pounds. Timothy seed, 45 pounds. Castor 
beans, 46 pounds. Oats, 35 pounds. Bran, 
20 pounds. Bhie grass seed, 14 pouuds. 

5975. Lineal or Long Measure. The 
standard of lineiir measurements, by which 
all measures of capacity are also regulated, is 
derived from the length of a pendulum vibra- 
ting seconds in a vacuum. This, in the lati- 
tude of London, is equal to 39.1393 inches, 
and in the City Hall of Kew York, 39.1012 
inches. 

By scientific persons, parts of an inch are 
represented by a decimal fraction, but for me- 
chanical pui-poses the inch is divided into a 
half, quarters and eighths. 



Mile. Furlongs. Rods. 



1 = 



= 320 = 

= 40 r= 

1 = 



1760 
220 



= 5280 
= 660 



1 = 



63360 

7920 

198 

36 

12 

in 



5976. Long Measure Expressed 
Metres. 

Metres. 
1 Mile = 1609.30634 = 1.609 Kilometres 
1 Furlong = 201.16329 = 2.012 Hectometres 
1 Rod = 5.02908 = 5.029 Metres 
1 Yard = .91438 = 9.144 Decimetres 
1 Foot = .30479 = 3.048 Decimetres 
1 Inch = .02539 = 2.539 Centimetres 

5977. Compara- 
tive Scale of Inches 
in French Metres. 

Inches. Millimetres. 



!-•- = 






iffi 

1 



5978. 


Value of 


Inches and Feet in 


French Metres. 


Inches. 




i 


= 


.00317 


h 


= 


.00475 


■ k 


= 


.00635 


h 


= 


.00794 


f 


= 


.00952 


h 


■ — 


.01111 


k 


— 


.01269 


A 


= 


.01428 


1 


= 


.01586 


U 


= 


.01745 


f 


=: 


.01904 


■H 


= 


.02063 


^ 


: — 


.02221 


H 


= 


.02379 


1 


= 


.02539 


2 


— 


.05079 


3 


— 


.07619 


4 


— 


.10159 


5 


^:: 


.12699 


6 


= 


.15239 


7 





.17779 


8 


=i 


.20319 


9 


■=- 


.22859 


10 





.25399 


11 


= 


.27939 


12 





.30479 


Feet. 






2 


= 


.60958 


3 


= 


.91438 


4 


= 


1.21916 


5 


= 


1.52395 


6 





1.82874 


7 


= 


2.13353 


8 





2.43832 


9 


= 


2.74311 


10 


=: 


3.04791 


11 


:^ 


3.35270 


12 


= 


3.65750 



5979. Decimal Equivalents of Fractional 
Parts of an Inch. 

Parts of 



Decimals. 
.03125 
.06250 
.09375 
.12.500 
.15625 
.18750 
.21875 
.25000 
.28125 
.31250 
.34375 
.37.500 
.40625 
.43750 
.46875 
.50000 
5980. 
= 1 line, 
5981. 



an Inch. 

k 

i 

t 

h 



= i 
Pendulum 



Decimals. 
.53125 
.56250 
.59375 
.62500 
.65625 
.68750 
.71875 
.75000 
.78125 
.81250 
.84375 
.87500 
.90625 
.93750 
.96875 



Parts of 
an Inch. 

hi 



6 points 



l<lo.l 



Measure. 

12 lines = 1 inch. 

Shoemakers' Measures. 
is 4-J- inches in length, and every succeeding 
number is i inch. There are 28 divisions, in 
two series of numbers, viz.: from 1 to 13 and 
1 to 15. 

5982. Square or Superficial Measure. 

Acre. Roods, poles. Yards. Feet. Indies. 

1 = 4 = 160 = 4,840 =43,560 =6,272,640 

1 = 40 = 1,210 = 10,890 = 1,568,160 

1 = 30i = 272i = 39,204 

1 = 9 = 1,296 

1 = 144 

5983. Square Measure in Square Metres. 

1 Acre = 4046.66700 sq. metres == 40.46667 Ares 



10.11667 " 
25.29167 Centres 



lKood= 1011.66675 

IPole = 25.29167 

1 Yard = .83609 

1 Foot = .09289 " = 9.289 Milliares 

1 Inch = .000645 " = .0645 

5984. Government Land Measure. 

A Township — 36 sections, each a mile square. 
A Section — 640 acres, A Quarter Section, 
half a mile square — 160 acres. An Eighth 
Section, half a mile long, north and south, 
and a quarter of a mile wide — 80 acres. A 
Sixteenth Section, a quarter of a mile square 
— 40 acres. The Sections are all numbered 
one to thirty-six, commencing at the northeast 
corner, thus: 



6 


5 


4 


3 


2 


N W 1 N E 


S W 1 8 £ 


7 


8 


9 


10 


11 


12 


18 


17 


16* 


15 


14 


13 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


30 


29 


28 


27 


26 


25 


31 


32 


33 


34 


35 


36 



The Sections are all divided in quarters, 
which are named by the cardinal points, as in 
section 1. The quarters are divided in the 
same way. 

♦School Section. 



518 TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC, 

5985., Decimal Equivalents of the Divisions of a Foot. 








1 


2 


3 


4 


5 


6 


7 


8 


9 


10 


11 






.08333 


.16666 


.25 


.33333 


.41666 


.5 


.58333 


.66666 


.75 


.83333 .91666 


h 


.00521 


.08854 


.17187 


.25521 


.33854 


.42187 


.50521 


.58854 


.67187 


.75521 


.83854 .92187 


i 


.01041 


.09374 


.17707 


.26041 


.34374 


.42707 


.51041 


.59374 


.67707 


.76041 


.84374 1 .92708 


^^ 


.01562 


.09895 


.18228 


.26562 


.34895 


.43228 


.51562 


.59895 


.68228 


.76562 


.84895 i .93229 


^ 


.02083 


.10413 


.18750 


.27083 


.35416 


.43759 


.52083 


.60416 


.687£0 


.77083 


.85416 '.93750! 


A 


.02604 


.10937 


.19270 


.27604 


.35937 


.44270 


.52604 


.60937 


.69270 


.77604 1 .85937 


.94270 


# 


.03125 


.11458 


.19791 


.28125 


.36458 


.44791 


.53125 


.61458 


.69791 


.78125 


.86458 


.94791 


t^ 


.03646 


.11979 


.20312 


.28646 


.36979 


.45312 


.53646 


.61979 


.70312 


.78646 


.86979 


.95312 


-^ 


.04166 


.12500 


.20832 


.29166 


.37500 


.45833 


,54166 


.62500 


.70832 ' .79166 


.87500 


.95833 


A 


.04687 


.13020 


.21353 


.29687 


.38020 


.46354 


.54687 


.63020 


.71353 , .79687 


.88020 


.96354 


f 


.05208 


.13541 


.21874 


.30203 


.38541 


.46875 


.55208 


.63541 


.71874 


.80208 


.88541 


.96875 


H 


.05729 


.14062 


.22395 


.30729 


.39062 1 .47395 


.55729 


.64062 


.72395 


.80729 


.89062 


.97395 


f 


.06250 


.14583 


.22913 


.31250 


.39583 i .47916 


.56250 


.64583 


.72916 


.81250 


.89583 


.97916 


H 


.06771 


.15104 


.23437 


.31771 


.40104 


.48437 


.56771 


.65104 


.73437 


.81771 


.90104 


.98437 


^ 


.07292 


.15625 


.23958 


.32292 


.40625 


.48958 


.57292 


.65625 


.73958 


.82292 


.90625 


.98958 


H 


.07813 


.16146 


.24479 


.32813 


.41146 


.49479 


.57813 


.66146 


.74479 


.82813 


.91146 


.99479 



To use the above table — suppose it is re- 
quired to find what decimal of a foot is equiv- 
alent to 8 inches — look for the column headed 
8, and the figures at the top of that column, 
.66666, is the decimal required. Again, to find 
the decimal of a foot equal to 5f inches, look 
in the column under figure 5, run the finger 
down that column until it is level with the 
f (marked on the left side of the table); the 
figures .47916 give the decimal required. 

5986. To Find the Square Feet in 
Boards. Multiply the decimal in the table, 
corresponding to the width of the board, by 
the length of the board in feet. 



Breadth 


Area of a 


Breadth 


Area of a 


in Indies. 


Lineal Foot. 


in Inches. 


Lineal Foot. 


J 


.0208 


6i 


.5208 


i 


.0417 


6i 


.5416 


1 


.0625 


6f 


.5625 


1 


.0834 


7 


.5833 


n 


.1042 


7J 


.6042 


n 


.125 


71 


.625 


If 


.1459 


n 


.6458 


2 


.1667 


8 


.6667 


2i 


.1875 


8i 


.6875 


2h 


.2084 


8^ 


.7084 


2f 


.2292 


8f 


.7292 


3 


.25 


9 


.75 


3i 


.2708 


9i 


.7708 


3i 


.2916 


9i 


•7917 


3f 


.3125 


9f 


.8125 


4 


.3334 


10 


.8334 


4i 


.3542 


m 


.8542 


41 


.375 


Wh 


.875 


4f 


.3958 


lOf 


.8959 


5 


.4167 


11 


.9167 


5i 


.4375 


Hi 


.9375 


l^k 


.4583 


m 


.9583 


5f 


.4792 


111 


.9792 


6 


.5 







Example. To find the square feet in a 
board 14 5 feet long and 9^ inches wide. 

The decimal in the table opposite 9^ inches 
is .7708 

Multiply by 14^ 



30832 
7708 
3854 



Answer 
Or about 



11.1766 feet, 
IH feet. 



5987. To Find the Square Surface or 
Area of a Circle. Square the radius (half 
the diameter), and multiply that by 3.14159 ; 
for small calculations 3| is nearly the same as 
3.14159. Thus, to find the area of a circle 
whose diameter is 8 feet: The radius is 4 
feet, this squared is 16; then 16 times 3.14159 
is 50.265 square feet. If the diameter is 8 
inches, the area would be 50.265 square inches. 

5988. Table Showing the Square 
Inches Contained in a Circle from Ten 
to Seventy-Three Inches in Diameter. 



Diameter 
of Circle. 



10 
11 
12 
13 
14 
15 
16 
17 
18 
19 
20 
21 
22 
23 
24 
25 
26 
27 
28 
29 
30 
31 
32 
33 
34 
35 
36 
37 
38 
39 
40 
41 



Square 
Inches. 



78.54 

95.03 

113.10 

132.73 

153.94 

176.71 

201.06 

226.98 

254.47 

283.54 

314.16 

346.36 

380.13 

415.47 

452.39 

490.88 

530.93 

572.56 

615.75 

660.20 

706.86 

754.77 

804.25 

855.30 

907.92 

962.00 

1017.88 

1075.20 

1134.00 

1194.60 

1256.64 

1320.26 



Diameter 
of Circle. 



42 
43 
44 
45 
46 
47 
48 
49 
50 
51 
52 
53 
54 
55 
56 
57 
58 
59 
60 
61 
62 
63 
64 
65 
66 
67 
68 
69 
70 
71 
72 
73 



Square 
Inches. 



1388.59 
1452.20 
1520.53 
1590.43 
1661.91 
1735.00 
1809.56 
1885.74 
1963.50 
2042.82 
2123.72 
2206.19 
2290.23 
2375.83 
2463.00 
2551.76 
2642.00 
2734.00 
2827.44 
2922.47 
3019.00 
3117.25 
3217.00 
3318.31 
3421.20 
3526.66 
3651.69 
3739.29 
3848.46 
3959.20 
4071.51 
4185.40 



The area may also be obtained by multiply- 
ing the square of the diameter by .7854. This 
method is deduced from the first one, and is 
founded on the fact that the square of any 
number is always 4 times as much as the 
square of half the number. In the first 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



519 



method the radius or half diameter is to be 
squared, and multiplied by 3.14159 ; in the 
.second, the wliole diameter is squared, which 
will result in just 4 times as much as the 
square of the radius; the multiplier must 
be therefore the fourth part of 3.14159, or 
.7854. 

5989. To Find tlie Area of a Paral- 
lelogram or Square. Multiply the length 
of one side by the pei-pendicular height. 

5990. To Find the Area of a Tri- 
angle. Multiply the base by i the perpen- 
dicular height. Or, to find the area from three 
.'ides given, from the half sum of the three 
I ides subtract each side separately ; multiply 
the half sum and the three remainders to- 
gether, and the square root of the product 
will be the area. 

5991. To Find the Area of a Trape- 
zoid. Multiply the sum of the two parallel 
sides by i the perpendicular height. 

5992. To Find the Area of a Sector 
of a Circle. Multiply the radius of the cir- 
cle by i the arc of the sector. 

5993. To Find the Area of a Segment 
of a Circle. Find the area of a sector of a 
circle having the same arc, and deduct the 
triangle formed between the two radii and the 
chord of the arc. 

5994. Cloth Measure, used for measur- 
ing dry good 



Yard. 


Quarters. 


Nails. 




Inches. 


1 


= 4 = 


16 


= 


36 




1 = 


4 


— 


9 






1 


= 


2i 



The height of horses is measured by the 
"hand" of 4 inches. 

5995. Gunter's Chain. This is the 
measure generally adopted in land surveying, 
is 22 yards in length, and contains 100 links, 
each link, consequently being 7.92 inches 
long. The length of the chain was fixed at 
22 yards, because a square whose side is 22 
yards (1 chain) contains exactly -jV acre; in 
other words, a rectangular plot of ground 1 
chain in width and 10 chains in length con- 
tains an acre. 80 chains make 1 mile in 
length ; and, consequently, a square mile 
contains 640 acres. For surveying and laying 
out plots and building lots, a chain of 50 feet, 
or one of 25 feet (the usual frontage of a lot) 
is usually employed by surveyors. 

5996. Cubic or Solid Measurement. 

Yard. Feet. Inches. 

1 = 27 = 46,656 

1 = 1,728 

5997. American Cord-Wood Measure. 

Timber is measured by the ton of 50 cubic 
feet of round, or 40 cubic feet of hewn tim- 
ber. Cord-wood is measured by the cord, 
which consists of a pile 8 lineal feet long and 
4 feet high ; and, as the wood is reckoned to 
be 4 feet in length, contains 128 cubic feet. 
A stick of cord- wood should measure 4 feet 4 
inches from end to end, to compensate for the 
slope or bevil of the cut, and provide for an 
equivalent of 4 feet of solid wood. The con- 
tents of each lineal foot of the length of the 
pile is called a cord foot, and contains one- 
eighth part of a cord, or 16 cubic feet. A 
!N"ew York load of wood is one-third of a 
cord. 

A shipping ton contains 42 cubic feet. 

Also, the cubic foot being considered unity, 



or 1, a cylinder 1 foot in diameter and 1 foot 
in length = .7854. 

A sphere 1 foot in diameter = .5236. 

A cone 1 foot in diameter at the base and 
1 foot in lieight = .2619. 

5998. Cubic Measure in Cubic Metres. 
1 Yard = .76450 Cubic Metres 

1 Foot = 28.31486 Cubic Decimetres 
1 Inch = 16.38591 Cubic Centimetres 

5999. Table of Solid Feet reduced to 

Solid Inches. 



Feet. Inches. 


Feet 


. Inches. 


Feet. 


Inches. 


2= 3456 


35= 


= 60480 


68= 


=117504 


3 5184 


36 


62208 


69 


119232 


4 6912 


37 


63936 


70 


120960 


5 8640 


38 


65664 


71 


122688 


6 10368 


39 


67392 


72 


124416 


7 12096 


40 


69120 


73 


126144 


8 13824 


41 


70848 


74 


127872 


9 15552 


42 


72576 


75 


129600 


10 17280 


43 


74304 


76 


131328 


11 19008 


44 


76032 


77 


133056 


12 20736 


45 


77760 


78 


134784 


13 22464 


46 


79488 


79 


136512 


14 24192 


47 


81216 


80 


138240 


15 25920 


48 


82944 


81 


139968 


16 27648 


49 


84672 


82 


141696 


17 29376 


50 


86400 


83 


143424 


18 31104 


51 


88128 


84 


145152 


19 328?? 


52 


89956 


85 


146880 


20 345tJ 


53 


91584 


86 


148608 


21 36288 


54 


93312 


87 


150336 


22 38C16 


55 


95040 


88 


152064 


23 39744 


56 


96768 


89 


153792 


24 41472 


57 


98496 


90 


155520 


25 43200 


58 


100224 


91 


157248 


26 44928 


59 


101952 


92 


158976 


27 46656 


60 


103680 


93 


160704 


28 48384 


61 


105408 


94 


162432 


29 50112 


62 


107136 


95 


164160 


30 51840 


63 


108864 


96 


165888 


31 53568 


64 


110592 


97 


167616 


32 55296 


65 


112320 


98 


169344 


33 57024 


66 


114048 


99 


171072 


34 58752 


67 


115776 


100 


172800 



22 cubic feet. To be 
measured in wall. 



^ ( 24.75 cubic feet. To' 
I be measured in pile. 



6000. Measurement of Stone and 
Brick-Work. 

1 Perch, Masons' or Qiiarrymen's Measure 

IC2 feet long, 

16 inches wide, 

1'? " high, 

] V feet long, 

lo inches wide, 

12 '' high, 

1 cubic 3-ard = 3 feet X 3 feet X 3 feet = 27 
cubic feet. The cubic yard has become the 
standard for all contract work of late years. 
Stone walls less than 16 inches thick count 
as if 16 inches thick to mason ; over 16 ' ohes 
thick, each inch additional is measured. 
Number of Bricks reqnirea in Walls for each 
Square Foot of Face of Wall 

Thickness of Wall, * 

4 inches . . . 



15 

m 

30 
37 i 



liickness of Wall. 

24 inches 46 

28 " 52i 

32 '' 60 

36 " 671 

42 " 75 



Cubic yard = 600 bricks in wall. 
Perch (22 cubic feet) = 500 bricks in wall 
To pave 1 sq. yard on flat requires 41 bricka 
1 " edge " 68 " 



520 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



6001. To rind tlie Cubical Contents 
of a Cylinder. Find the area of the circular 
end, as directed in ISTo. 5987, and then multi- 
ply the area by the length of the cylinder; 
the product will be the cubical content. The 
same denomination of measurement must be 
adhered to throughout the calculation, as, if 
the diameter or area is in inches, the length 
must be in inches. Thus : to find the cubical 
content of a cylinder 8 inches in diameter 
and 3 feet long ; we find in I^o. 5987 that the 
area of a circle 8 inches in diameter is 50.265 
square inches ; multiply this by 36 inches (3 
feet reduced to inches, the same denomination 
as the given diameter), and the product is 
1809.54 cubic inches, or 1 foot, 81.54 cubic 
inches. 

6002. Table of Spherical Contents, 
&c. This table shows the relative propor- 
tions between the diameter, surface, and 
capacity (or cubical contents) of spheres. 



Diameters. 



1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

40 



Surfaces. 



3.141 
12.567 

28.274 
50.265 
78.540 
314.159 
706.9 
1256.6 
1963.5 
2827. 
5026. 



Capacities. 



.523 
4.188 
14.137 
33.51 
65.45 
523.6 
1767.1 
4189. 
8181. 
14137. 
3.3510. 



6003. To Find the Cubical Contents 
of Spars or Other Round Timber. If 

the spar or timber were the same thickness 
through its entire length, the diameter of all 
parts would be the same, and one measure- 
ment would suffice to obtain the correct 
diameter ; its cubical contents could then be 
found in the same way as for a cylinder ; but 
this is hardly ever the case, as the thickness 
or diameter is difierent in every part. If the 
spar tapers regularly from one end to the 
other, measure the diameter at each end, add 
the two measurements together, and divide 
their sum by 2; this will give the average 
diameter. A piece of timber of irregular 
thickness must be measured in portions, 
each portion extending as far as the tapering 
is regular, and the contents of the different 
portions added together to get the contents 
of the whole. Having obtained the correct 
diameter in inches, look for it in the next 
table, and opposite it, in the next column to 
the right, will be the contents in feet of 1 
foot of timber in length ; multiply this by the 
length of the timber in feet, and the result 
"will be the contents of the whole. 

Thus, to find the contents of a 16-foot log 
whose average diameter is found to be 131 
<that is, 13.5) inches, wc find the figures on 
che next right hand column in the table are 
.99 ; this means that a log 1 foot long and 13 5 
inches in diameter contains .99 or -/qit of a 
cubic foot. Multiply this .99 by 16, the 
length of the log in feet, and we get 15.84, or 
about lh\ cubic feet, which is the contents of 
the whole log. 

About 10 per cent, should be deducted 
from the results given in the table when 
toll is charged on rafts of spars or logs^ for 



the reason that many sticks of timber tape/ 
suddenly, and others are unequal in diameter 
when the average is taken. 



Diameter 


Contents. 


Diameter 


Inches. 


1 foot long. 


Inches. 


4. 


.0872 


27.5 


5. 


.137 


28. 


6. 


.196 


28.5 


7. 


.267 


29 


7.5 


.31 


29.5 


8. 


.35 


30. 


8.5 


.39 


30.5 


9. 


.44 


31. 


9.5 


.49 


31.5 


10. 


.55 


32. 


10.5 


.60 


32.5 


11. 


.66 


33. 


11.5 


.72 


33.5 


12. 


.79 


34. 


12.5 


.85 


34.5 


13. 


.92 


35. 


13.5 


.99 


35.5 


14. 


1.07 


36. 


14.5 


1.15 


36.5 


15. 


1.23 


37. 


15.5 


1.31 


37.5 


16. 


1.40 


38. 


16.5 


1.48 


38.5 


17. 


1.58 


39. 


17.5 


1.67 


39.5 


18. 


1.77 


40. 


18.5 


1.87 


40.5 


19. 


1.97 


41. 


19.5 


2.07 


42. 


20. 


2.18 


43. 


20.5 


2.29 


44. 


21. 


2.40 


45. 


21.5 


2.52 


46. 


22. 


2.64 


47. 


22.5 


2.76 


48. 


23. 


2.89 


49. 


23.5 


3.11 


50. 


24. 


3.14 


51. 


24.5 


3.27 


52. 


25. 


3.41 


53. 


25.5 


3.55 


54. 


26. 


3.69 


55. 


26.5 


3.C3 


56. 


27. 


3.98 


57. 



Contente. 
1 foot long. 



4.12 

4.28 

4.43 

4.59 

4.75 

4.91 

5.07 

5.24 

5.41 

5.58 

5.76 

5.94 

6.12 

6.31 

6.49 

6.68 

6.87 

7.0T 

7.27 

7.47 

7.67 

7.88 

8.09 

8.30 

8.51 

8.73 

8.95 

9.17 

9.61 

10.08 

10.555 

11.044 

11.541 

12.049 

12.566 

13.095 

13.635 

14.186 

14.747 

15.320 

15.904 

16.499 

17.104 

17.720 



6004. Capacity" of Cubical Boxes. A 

box 1 foot and 1 inch each way, %. e., length, 
breadth, and depth, will contain 1 standard 
bushel. 



eet. 


Inches. 




Bushel*. 




1 


= 


1 




4i 


= 


2 




6f 


— r 


3 




8^ 


=: 


4 




10-:^ 


= 


5 




IH 


= 


6 


2 


f 


=: 


7 


2 


2 


; 


8 


2 


3 


= 


9 


2 


4 


= 


10 



6005. Capacity of Boxes of DilTerent 
Dimensions. A box 4 feet 7 inches long, 
and 2 feet 4 inches in width, and 2 feet 4 
inches in depth, will contaiL 20 bushels. The 
dimensions of a cylinder containing 1 United 
States standard bushel are I85 inches inside 
diameter, and 8 inches deep. A box 24 inche • 
by 16 inches square^ and 28 inches deep will 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



521 



contain a barrel, 5 bushels. A box 24 
inches by 16 inches square, and 14 inches deep, 
will contain a half barrel. A box 24 inches 
by 11.2 inches square, and 8 inches deep, "will 
contain 1 bushel. A box 12 inches by 11.2 
inches square, and 8 inches deep, will contain 
■J- bushel. A box 8 inches by 8.4 inches 
square, and 8 inches deep, will contain 1 peck. 
A box 8 inches by 8 inches square, and 4.2 
inches deep, will contain 1 gallon. A box 7 
inches by 8 inches square, and 4.8 inches 



deep, will contain 1 gallon. A box 4 incies 
by 4 inches square, aud 4.2 inches deep, will 
contain 1 quart. 

6006. To Find the Amount of Lum- 
ber any Log will Make. Find the length 
of the log iu the left-hand column of the next 
Table ; then on the top of the page find the 
diameter, and under the same will be found 
the quantity of lumber the log will make ; cal- 
culated for any length from 10 to 25 feet, and 
for any diameter from 12 to 44 inches. 







Tahle Slioi 


:ing the 


X 


iniber 


of Feet 


f Inch-Board 


in 


a 


Log 


of Timber. 






Diameter in Inches. 


u 


13 


14 


15 


16 


17 


18 


19 


20 


21 


22 


23 


24 


25 


23 


27 


28 


10 


49 


61 


72 


89 


99 


116 


133 


150 


175 


190 


209 


235 


2.52 


287 


313 


342 


363 


11 


54 


67 


79 


93 


109 


127 


147 


165 


192 


209 


230 


259 


278 


315 


344 


377 


400 


12 


59 


73 


83 


107 


119 


139 


160 


180 


210 


228 


251 


283 


303 


344 


375 


411 


436 


13 


64 


79 


93 


116 


129 


150 


173 


195 


227 


247 


272 


306 


328 


373 


408 


445 


473 


14 


69 


85 


100 


125 


139 


162 


187 


210 


245 


266 


292 


330 


353 


401 


4.39 


479 


509 


15 


74 


91 


107 


134 


149 


173 


200 


225 


262 


285 


313 


353 


379 


430 


439 


514 


545 


16 


79 


97 


114 


142 


159 


185 


213 


240 


280 


304 


334 


377 


404 


459 


500 


548 


582 


17 


84 


103 


122 


151 


168 


193 


227 


255 


297 


323 


355 


400 


429 


487 


531 


582 


618 


18 


89 


109 


129 


160 


178 


208 


240 


270 


315 


342 


376 


424 


454 


516 


532 


616 


654 


19 


93 


116 


136 


169 


188 


219 


253 


285 


332 


361 


397 


447 


480 


545 


594 


650 


692 


20 


98 


122 


143 


178 


198 


2.32 


237 


300 


350 


380 


418 


470 


505 


573 


625 


684 


728 


21 


103 


128 


150 


187 


208 


243 


280 


315 


368 


399 


439 


495 


530 


603 


656 


719 


764 


22 


108 


134 


1.57 


196 


218 


255 


293 


330 


385 


418 


430 


518 


555 


631 


688 


753 


800 


23 


113 


140 


164 


205 


228 


266 


307 


345 


403 


437 


480 


542 


571 


659 


719 


787 


837 


24 


118 


146 


172 


214 


238 


278 


320 


360 


420 


456 


501 


536 


603 


688 


750 


821 


873 


25 


123 


152 


179 


223 


248 


289 


333 


375 


438 


475 


522 


589 


631 


717 


781 


856 


910 


5| 

11 


Diameter in Inches. 


29 


30 


31 


32 


33 


34 


35 


36 


37 


38 


39 40 


41 


42 


43 


44 
925 


10 


3S1 


411 


444 


460 


490 


500 


547 


577 


644 


661 


) 700 


752 


795 840 


872 


11 


419 


451 


488 


506 


539 


550 


602 


634 


708 


73^ 


I 770 


828 


874 924 


959 


1017 


12 


457 


493 


532 


552 


588 


600 


657 


692 


772 


80] 


L 840 


903 


954 1007 


1046 


1110 


13 


495 


534 


576 


598 


637 


650 


712 


750 


836 


86^ 


^ 910 


978 


1033 1091 


113r 


1203 


14 


533 


575 


622 


644 


686 


700 


766 


807 


901 


93^ 


I 980 


1053 


1113 1175,12221 


1295 


15 


571 


616 


663 


690 


735 


750 


821 


865 


965 


1001 


1050 


1129 


11921 1259, 1309 j 


1388 


13 


609 


657 


710 


736 


784 


800 


876 


923 


1029 


106c 


] 1120 


1204 


1272 ] 


343 


1396 


1480 


17 


647 


698 


755 


782 


833 


850 


931 


980 


1094 


113^ 


\ 1190 


1279 


1351 ] 


427 


1484 


1573 


18 


685 


739 


799 


828 


882 


900 


985 


1038 


1158 


1201 


1260 


1354 


1431 ] 


511 


1571 


1665 


19 


723 


780 


843 


874 


931 


950 


1040 


1096 


1222 


1265 


\ 1330 


1430 


1510 1 


595 


1658 


1758 


20 


761 


821 


888 


920 


980 


1000 


1095 


11.52 


1287 


133.= 


> 1400 


1505 


1590 1 


679 


1745 


1850 j 


21 


800 


833 


932 


966 


1029 


1050 


1150 


1210 


1351 


1401 


1470 


1580 


1669 ] 


763 


1833 


1943 


22 


838 


904 


976 


1012 


1078 


1100 


1204 


1268 


1415 


1465 


\ 1540 


1655 


1749 1 


847 


1920 


2035 


23 


876 


945 


1021 


1058 


1127 


1150 


1259 


1322 


1480 


1532 


1610 


1730 


1828 ] 


931 


2007 


2128 


24 


914 


983 


1065 1104 


1176 


1200 


1314 


1380 


1544 


1601 


1680 


1806 


1908 £ 


,015 


2094 


2220 


25 


952 


1027 


1109 1150 


1225 


1250 


1369 


1438 i 1608 


166t 


) 1750 


1881 


1987120991 


2182 


2313 



Lunar 












Month. 


Weeks. 


DavR 




Honrs. 




1 = 


= 4 = 


28 


■=^ 


672 


= 




1 = 


7 


=: 


168 


= 






1 


= 


24 

1 






6007. Measure of Time. 

Minutes. Seconds. 

40,320 = 2419,200 
10,080 = 604,800 
1,440 = 86,400 
60 = 3,600 
1 = 60 

The year of 365 days is divided into 12 
calendar months, 7 of which hare 31 days; 4 
have 30 days; and 1, February, 28 days. The 
solar year consists of 365 days, 5 hours, 48 
minutes, and 49 seconds; this excess over 
365 day^, nearly 6 hours, or ^ day, is allowed 
to accumulate through each 4 years, and pro- 
vided for every fourth, or leap year, by adding 
1 day to February ; but as this is adding a 
trifle too much, every 400 years one leap year 
is omitted, and this occurs when the year is 
divisible by 400 without remainder. 



In the year 1582, the fact was observed by 
Pope Gregory XIII that, in consequence of 
this discrepancy not having been taken into 
account since the commencement of the Ju- 
lian system (see Xo. 6064), the true time 
exceeded the time as then reckoned by 10 
days ; and therefore ordered the 11th of 
March to be accounted the 21st. The Pope'^i 
edict was generally observed by the nations 
subject to his authority, but the Protestant 
countries continued the use of the Julian 
reckoning. This gave rise to the two modes 
of computation still found in Europe, called 
the old style and new style. The latter was 
adopted in England in 1752, by making the 
1st of September the 12th. 

Whenever the date of the year is divisible 
by 4 without remainder, February has 23 
days, and that year is called Bissextile. 



523 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC, 



6008. Table Showing the Number of 
Days from any Date in One Month to 
the Same Date in any Other Month. 



''rom To 



January. 
Feby. . . . 
March. . . 

April 

May 

June 

July 

August.. 

Sept 

October . 

Nov 

Dec 



365' 31 59 

334 365 28 

306 337 365 

275 306 334 

245 276 304 

214 245 273 

184 215 243 

153 184 212 

122 153 181 

92 123 151 

611 92 120 

31 1 62| 90 



120 



90 

59 

31 
335 
335 
304 334 
274 304 
243 273 
212 242 
182 212 
1511181 
I21I15I 



151 181 
120 150 
92 122 



61 

31 
365 
335 
3041334 
273303' 
243 273 
212 242 
182 212 



212 243 273 
1811212 242 
153184 214 
122153,183 
92 123 153 
61 92122 



31 62 
365! 31 
334 365 
304 335 365 
273 304 334 
243 274 304 



304 334 
273 303 
245 275 
214 244 
184 214 
153 183 
123153 
92,122 



91 
61 
30 
335 365 



Example : How many days from the 2d of 
February to the 2d of August? Look for 
February at the left hand, and August at the 
top, in the angle is 181. In leap year, add 
one day if February be included. 
6009. Table Showing Difference of 
Time at 12 o'clock (Noon) at New York. 



New York 12.03 n, 

Buffalo 11.40 A. M. 

Cincinnati 11.18 " 

Chicago .11.07 " 

St. Louis 10.55 «' 

San Francisco. . 8.45 " 
New Orleans... 10. 56 " 

Washington 11.48 " 

Charleston 11.36 " 

Havana 11.25 



Boston 12.12 p. m. 

Quebec 12.12 " 

Portland 12.15 " 

London 4.55 " 

Paris 5.05 " 

Rome 5.45 " 

Constantinople. 6.41 " 

Vienna 6.00 " 

St. Petersburg.. 6.57 " 
Pekin, night. . .12.40 a. m. 



6010. Geographical or Nautical Mea- 
sure. 

©reat Circle. Degrees. Leagues. Geo. Miles. 
1 = 360 = 7200 = 21600 
1 = 20 = 60 

1 = 3 



The geographical or nautical mile, accord- 
ing to Brande, is equivalent to 1.153 statute 
miles ; this would give 2029.3 yards to the 
nautical mile, 69.18 statute miles to the de- 
gree, and about 24.905 miles for the earth's 
equatorial circumference. According to one 
of the very best authorities, Chambers' Ency- 
clopeedia, the nautical mile contains 2029 
yards; on this basis, a degree would measure 
about 69.17 statute miles, and the earth's cir- 
cumference about 24.901 statute miles. A 
great circle of the earth is an imaginary line 
or belt so drawn round the earth as to divide 
it into two equal parts or hemispheres ; the 
equator and the ecliptic are great circles. In 
navigation, sailors measure depth of sound- 
ings and short distances by the fathom of 6 
feet, and the cahle-length of 120 fathoms. 

601 1. Nautical Time. The hour of the 
day or night is noted on board a ship by 
1, 2, 3, <fec., up to 8 bells. The 12 hours be- 
tween midnight and noon, or noon and mid- 
night, are divided into 3 portions of 8 bells 
each, the duration of time between bells being 
half an hour. During the course of each 12 
hours, the same number of strokes of the bell 
will necessarily be used to denote three differ- 
ent hours or periods of time. 

BeU. Clock-Time. Clock-Time. Clock-Time. 



1 denotes 12.30 


4.30 


8.30 


2 


1. 


5. 


9. 


3 


1.30 


5.30 


9.30 


4 


2. 


6. 


10. 


5 


2.30 


6.30 


10.30 


6 


3. 


7. 


11. 


7 


3.30 


7.30 


11.30 


8 


4. 


8. 


12. 





6012. 


Capacity of Cisterns, &c. 






Diameter 
in Feet 


Depth in 


Number 
of Wine 


Number of 


No. of 


No. of 
Ctallons in 10 


and Inches. 


Feet and Inches. 


Gallons. 


Barrels. 


Hhds. 


Inches Depth. 


2 ft. 


2 ft. 


45 


1-^f 


u 


19 


2 ft. 6 in. 


2 ft. 6 in. 


90 


2f 


1-h 


30 


3 ft. 


3 ft. 


158 


5 


2h 


44 


3 ft. 6 in. 


3 ft. 6 in. 


252 


8 


4 


60 


4 ft. 


4 ft. 


374 


llff 


54a 


78 


4 ft. 6 in. 


4 ft. 6 in. 


524 


16^^ 


8|§- 


97 


5 ft. 


5 ft. 


732 


23^4 


iiM 


122 


5 ft. 6 in. 


5 ft. 6 in. 


976 


31 


15 i 


148 


6 ft. 


6 ft. 


1267 


40 f 


20 h 


176 


6 ft. 6 in. 


6 ft. 6 in. 


1614 


51M 


25f1 


207 


7 ft. 


7 ft. 


2016 


64 


32 


240 


8 ft. 


8 ft. 


3004 


95ff 
114M 


mi 


313 


8 ft. 6 in. 


8 ft. 6 in. 


3600 


57/3- 


353 


9 ft. 


9 ft. 


4276 


135^1 


67|| 
79ig- 


396 


9 ft. 6 in. 


9 ft. 6 in. 


5027 


159|i 


441 


10 ft. 


10 ft. 


5868 


186^1 


93,% 


489 


11 ft. 


11 ft. 


7814 


248^ 


124^ 


592 


12 ft. 


12 ft. 


10152 


322H 


16W"3 


705 


13 ft. 


13 ft. 


12901 


409 f 


204e 


827 


14 ft. 


14 ft. 


16111 


51111 




959 


15 ft. 


15 ft. 


19818 


62S-A- 


31414 


1101 


20 ft. 


20 ft. 


46992 


1491f| 


745H 


1958 


25 ft. 


25 ft. 


91770 


2913 i 


14561 


3059 



I /Example: Suppose you desire to ascertain 
the capacity of a cistern 4 feet 6 inches in 
diameter and 4 feet 6 inches in depth. Find 
the diameter in the left hand column, and 
directly opposite you will see that the cis- 
tern will hold 524 gallons of 231 cubic inches 
each, equal to 16^J barrels, or 8|| hogsheads. 



The right hand column shows the number of 
gallons contained in 10 inches of depth. By 
this standard you may easily increase or 
diminish the capacity at pleasure. Thus, if 
you wish the above cistern to hold 97 gallons 
more, make it 10 inches deeper ; or 194 gal- 
lons more^ 20 inches deeper. 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



523 



6013. Log Lines. 1 knot = 51.1625 
feet, or 51 feet If -\- inches. 1 fathom = 
5.11625 feet, or 5 feet 1^ + inches, estima- 
ting a mile at 61392 feet, and using a 30" 
glass. If a 28" glass is used, and eight divi- 
sions, then 1 knot = 47 feet 9 + inches. 
1 fathom = 5 feet llf inches. The line 
should be about 150 fathoms long, having 10 
fathoms between the chip and first knot for 
stray line. Miles x .87 = knots. Knots X 
1.15 z= miles. Feet per minute X .01 = knots 
per hour. 1 knot — 6082.66 feet; 1 statute 
mile = 5280 feet. 

6014. The Decimal System of 
"Weights and Measures. A permissive 
law has already been passed by the American 
and British governments, adopting the deci- 
mal system as applied to weights and mea- 
sures. It is substantially the same as the 
French decimal system, and founded on units 
of the same value. The multiples and sub- 
divisions of the different units are the same ; 
Greek prefixes being used to denote the 
multiples, and Latin prefixes the fractional 
parts of the units. 

The Greek prefix Deka means 10 units 
" " Hecto " 100 " 

" " Kilo " 1000 " 

" " Myria " 10000 " 

The Latin prefix Deci " -^(^ of a unit 

" CENTI " T-^Tj 

MILL! " TT.W " 

The fundamental unit of all the decimal 
weights and measures is the Metre; the 
standard length of which is the Trnnfcnnnr of a 
quadrant of the earth's meridian, equivalent 
to 39.371 inches. The unit of dry and liquid 
measures of capacity is the Litre, which is 
the ttjw of a cubic metre, and contains 
61.028 cubic inches. These figures are as 
exact as a calculation involving twelve places 
of decimals will bring it. The government 
standard, adopted as sufficiently correct for 
all practical purposes, is 61.022 cubic inches; 
this is based on a metre of 39.3885 inches, 
which would make the gram 15.432 grains. 
The GRAM or unit of weight is the weight of 
a cubic centimetre (tott of a metre) of water 
at 39.83^ Fahr., and is equivalent to 15.431 
grains. For post-office purposes, the 5 ounce 
avoirdupois is declared equivalent to 15 grams. 
The ARE, or unit of surface measurement, is 
the -Y-os of a square metre, or 119.3 square 
yards. This system of weights and measures 
has not as yet come into general use, either in 
America or England. Its advantages are 
indisputably great for facilitating calculati(m 
as well as establishing uniform international 
standards ; but its adoption necessarily meets 
with much opposition, as it overthrows not 
only all the old, arbitrary units of measure- 
ment, but their multiples and subdivisions 
also. It seems so natural to halve and quar- 
ter, and count by the dozen, that even in our 
decimal currency we cannot dispense with 
the half and quarter dollar and eagle ; in fact, 
the advantage of our decimal currency can- 
inot be appreciated to i^s full extent until the 
custom of counting by the dozen is entirely 
superseded by the decade. The dozen, 12, is 
divisible by 2, 3, 4, and 6 ; the decade, 10, by 2 
and 5 only ; and, although this is a matter of 
little moment as far as regards calculation, it 
makes a great difference for practical subdi- 



vision. Old rooted customs are difficult to 
eradicate, but there is no doubt that the 
dozeu, haif, and quarter, those stumbling- 
blocks in the way of the decimal system, will 
eventually disappear as entirely as the now 
totally obsolete eighth and sixteenth of a 
dollar, the Mexican shilling and f^ixpence. 

6015. Official Standard Metre. The 
following information was lately given by 
Mr. llilgard, of the United States Cv)ast Sur- 
vey, to the Journal of the Franklin Institute : 
''There are, in the custody of the Treasury De- 
partment, at the Office of Weights and Mea- 
sures, the following authentic copies of the 
standard metre and kilogramme of France, 
viz. : Metre of platinum, compared and certi- 
fied by Arago ; metre of steel, compared and 
certified by Silbermann; kilogramme of pla- 
tinum, compared and certified by Arago; 
kilogramme of brass (gilt), compared and cer- 
tified by Silbermann. The length of the 
metre is 39.3685 inches of the United States 
standard scale, and the kilogramme is 15432.2 
grains, or 2 pounds, 3 ounces, 119.7 grains 
avoirdupois. There is also another metre, 
the property of the American Philosophical 
Society, which is one of the twelve original 
metres made by the French Grovernment, and 
was brought to this countr}'- by Mr. Hassler, 
the originator of the United States Coast 
Survey. A comparison between this bar and 
the standard of France at the Conservatory 
of Arts and Trades was made by Dr. F. A. P. 
Barnard, with the result that, at the tempera- 
ture of melting ice, there is no appreciable 
difference, by the most delicate means of 
comparison, between the platinum standard 
of the Conservatory and this iron metre." 

The above standard metre of 39.3685 inches 
would make the equatorial circumference oi 
the earth measure 24.854 statute miles. Bes- 
sel's calculations, given in Cliambers' Ency- 
clopaedia, give the equatorial circumference 
at 24.901 1^, miles. If this measurement be 
correct, the standard metre should be 39.371 
inches. This difference, however, is so trifling 
that it would not be appreciable for all prac- 
tical purposes. 

6016. Decimal Measures of Length. 
Myriametre = 10,000 metres. 
Kilometre = 1,000 metres. 
Hectometre = 100 metres. 
Dekametre = 10 metres. 
Metre = 1 metre. 
Decimetre = ^0 metre. 
Centimetre = tw metre. 
Millimetre = -nnTU metre. 
6017. Value of Metric Measures oX 

Length in Long Measure. 

Miles. Yds. Ft. Inches. 
Myriametre = 6 376 1 2 
Kilometre = 1093 1 11 

Hectometre = 109 1 1.1 

Dekametre = 10 2 9.71 

Metre = 10 3.371 

Decimetre = 3.937 

Centimetre = .394 

For general purposes, or small calculations, 
the following equivalents will be found suffi. 
ciently accurate : 1 millimetre is equal to ^ 
inch ; 1 centimetre is equal to f inch ; 1 deci- 
metre is equal to 3 -,% inches; 1 metre is 
equal to 39^ inches ; ^ metre is equal to 3G 
inches or 1 yard. 



524: 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



6018. Value of Metres in Inches. 



Millimetre. 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 
Centimetre. 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 
Decimetre. 

1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

6 

7 

8 

9 
6019. 

iJecimetres. 

1 = 

2 = 

3 = 

4 = 

5 = 

6 = 

7 = 

8 = 

9 = 

Metres. 

1 = 

2 = 

3 = 

4 = 

5 = 

6 = 

7 = 



Metre. 
.001 
.002 
.003 
.004 
.005 
.006 
.007 
.008 
.009 

.01 
.02 
.03 
.04 

.05 
.06 
.07 
.08 
.09 

.1 
.2 
.3 
.4 
.5 
.6 
.7 



9 

Dekametre. Metres. 
1 

2 



10 
20 
30 
40 
50 
60 



3 
4 

5 
6 

7 
8 
9 = 90 = 295.29 

Hectometre, 
1 



Inches. 
.03937 
.07874 
.11811 
.15748 
.19685 
.23622 
.27560 
.31497 
.35434 

.3937 
.7874 
1.1811 
1.5748 
1.9685 
2.3622 
2.7559 
3.1497 
3.5434 

3.9371 

7.8742 

11.8113 

15.7484 

19.6855 

23.6226 

27.5597 

.8 = 31.4968 

.9 = 35.4339 

Value of Metres in Feet. 

Feet. 

.328 

.656 

.984 
1.312 
1.640 
1.968 
2.297 
2.625 
2.953 

3.281 

6.562 

9.843 
13.124 
16.405 
19.686 
22.967 
26.248 
29.529 

32.81 

65.62 

98.43 
131.24 
164.05 
196.86 



Metres. 
lUO 



70 = 229.67 
80 = 262.48 



100 
200 
300 
400 
500 
600 
700 
800 
900 



328.1 
656.2 
984.3 
1312.4 
1640.5 
1968.6 
2296.7 
2624.8 
2952.9 



I-- 300 



--■150 



The foregoing scale may be used for any 
other portion of the metrical system; for 
instance, if millimetres be used instead of 



decimetres, the relative scale of feel will 
consist of the same figures, with the decimal 
point removed one place to the left, to divide 
by 10, the millimetre being ^^ decimetre. 
6020. Decimal Measures of Capacity. 



Names. 



Kilolitre, or stere 

Hectolitre 

Dekalitre 

Litre 

Decilitre 

Centilitre 

Millilitre 



Number of 
Litres. 



1,000 

100 

10 

1 



ro 

100 

iffoo 



Cubic Measure. 



1 cubic metre 

11) cubic metre 
10 cu. decimetres 

1 cub. 

A, cub. " 
10 cu. centimetre 

1 cu. centimetre 



The following are approximate values, cor- 
rect enough for rough calculations. One 
millilitre is equal to 155 grain meapures of 
water ; one centilitre is equal to 154 grain 
measures, or 3 fluid drachms ; one decilitre is 
equal to 1,540 grain measures, or 3i fluid 
ounces; one litre is equal to 15,406 grain 
measures, or 2^^ pints ; one cubic centimetre 
of water at its maximum density weighs 154 
grains, and is f fluid drachm. 
6021. Value of Metric Measures of 
Capacity in XJ. S. Dry Measure. 

Bush. Peck. Quart 



Kilolitre = 

Hectolitre = 

Dekalitre = 

Litre = 

Decilitre = 

Centilitre = 



28 
2 



41 

2 





Pint. 

1.6 

1.6 

1.816 

.181 

.018 

6022. Value of Metric Measures of 
Capacity in U. S. Liquid Measure. 

Gals. Quarts. Pints. Gills. 
Kilolitre = 264 1 1.6 

Hectolitre = 26 1 1 1.36 

Dekalitre = 2 2 1 0.136 

Litre = 10 0.413 

Decilitre = .841 

Centilitre = .084 

6023. Equivalent of Metric Measures 
of Capacity in TJ. S. Apothecaries 
Measure. 



Gal. 


Fluid Fluid 
pint. Ounce. Drachm. Minims. 


Hectohtre = 26 


3 5 5 20 


Dekalitre = 2 


5 2 1 20 


Litre = 


2 1 6 32 


Decilitre = 


3 3 3 


Centilitre = 


2 42 


6024. Value of Metric Measures of 


Capacity in Imperial Dry Measure. 


Bush. 


Pecks. Gals. Pints. 


Kilolitre = 27 


2 0.600 


Hectolitre = 2 


3 0.080 


Dekalitre = 


2 1.608 


Litre = 


1.760 


Decilitre = 


.176 



6025. Value of Metric Measures of 
Capacity in Imperial Liquid Measure. 

HMs. Gals. Qts. Pts. Gills. 

Kilolitre = 3 31 3.5.00 

Hectolitre = 22 0.320 

Dekalitre = 2 1 2.432 

Litre = 1 3.040 

Decilitre = .704 

6026. Decimal Measures of Surface. 

Equivalents in 
Square Measure. 
Acres. Sq. yds. Pq. ft. 

Hectare.. 10, 000 square metres 2 2279 5.76 

Are 100 square metres 119 5.4 

Centare... 1 square metre 1 1.76 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



525 



6027. Decimal Weights. 



Millier, or Touneau 
Qiiiutal. 



Myriagram 

Kilogram or kilo. 

Hectogram 

Dekagram 

l-Gram 

Decigram 

Centigram 

Milligram 



.- , . WoiKlit ol what 

p?ilf.= qmmtltyofWaterat 

maximum density 



1,000,000 

100,000 

10,000 

1,000 

100 

10 

1 

fo 

1 000 



1 cub. metre 

1 hectolitre 
10 litres 

1 litre 

1 decilitre 
10 cu. cent're 

1 cu. cent're 

(^ cu. cent're 
10 cu. milm's 

1 cu. milm'e 



6028. Equivalent of Metric Weights 
in Avoirdupois Weight. 

Lbs. Oz. 

= 2204 

= 220 

= 22 

= 2 



Dr. 

1.6 

4.96 

11.69 

4.37 

8.44 

5.64 

.56 

Weights 



Millier = 

Quintal = 

Myriagram = 
Kilogram = 

Hectogram = 
Dekagram = 

Gram = 

6029. Equivalent of Metric 

in Troy Weight. 

Lbs. Oz. Dwts. Grains. 
Millier = 2677 1 19 20. 

Quintal = 267 8 11 23.6 

Myriagram = 26 9 5 4.77 

Kilogram = 2 8 2 12.48 

Hectogram = 3 4 6.05 

Dekagram ~ 6 10.21 

Gram = 15.43 

Decigram = 1.54 

Centigram = .15 

6030. Equivalent of Metric Weights 
in U, S. Apothecaries Weight. 

Lbs. Oz. Dr. Scr. 
2677 17 2 
267 
26 
2 



Millier 

Quintal 

Myriagram 

Kilogram 

Hectogram 

Dekagram 

Gram 

Decigram 



Dr. 
7 
4 
2 
1 
1 
2 



Grs. 

16. 

7.6 

4.77 

0.48 

2.05 

14.21 

15.43 

1.54 



For general purposes the following values 
are sufficiently correct: 1 milligram is 
equal to ^4 grain ; 1 centigram is equal to ^ 
grain; 1 decigram is equal to 1^ grains; 1 
gram is equal to 15 2 grains; 1 dekagram 
is equal to 154 grains; 1 hectogram is 
equal to 1,543 grains; 1 kilogram is equal 
to 15,432 grains. 

6031. Enghsh Weights and Mea- 
sures. Avoirdupois and Troy weight are 
exactly the same as used in the United States, 
and the tables will be found in l!^os. 5935, (fee. 
In the new British Pharmacopoeia, the weights 
are expressed in pounds, ounces, and grains, 
avoirdupois ; thus superseding the Apothe- 
caries weight as now in use in the United 
States. The old British avoirdupois drachm 
(]ig ounce or 27.344 grains) is now obsolete, 
except in weighing silk. The new drachm is 
i ounce. 

6032. Imperial Standard Measure. 



Oal. 


Quarts. 


Pints 


. 


F. Oz 




r. Dr. 




MiniTTiR. 


1 


= 4 2= 


8 


= 


160 


= 


1280 


= 


76.800 




1 = 


2 


= 


40 


= 


320 


= 


19.200 






1 


— T 


20 


= 


160 


= 


9.600 










1 


= 


8 
1 


= 


480 
60 



The standard unit of this measure is the 
gallon which is declared by statute to contain 
10 pounds avoirdupois (70,000 Troy grains) of 
distilled water at a temperature of 62" Fahr., 
the barometer being at 30 inches. The weight 
of a cubic inch of water, under the foregoing 
conditions, is 252.458 grains ; the capacities of 
the measures are therefore as follows : 



Imperial Gallon 


= 


277.274 Cubic Inches. 


Quart 


=z 


69.3185 


Pint 


= 


34.65925 


Fluid Ounce 


= 


1.73296 


" Di-achra 


= 


.21662 " 



Thus it will be seen that there is a slight 
difference in weight between the English and 
United States unit of capacity, viz.: The 
cubic inch of water; the English being 
weighed at 62° Fahr., and the United States 
at 39.83°. (.See iVo. 5935.) 
6033. Imperial Measure Expressed in 

Litres. 
1 Gallon = 4.54339 Litres 

1 Quart == 1.13585 " 

1 Pint = 5.67925 Decilitres 

1 Fluid Ounce = 2.83962 Centilitres 

1 '' Drachm = 3.54952 Millilitres 

1 Minim = .05916 " 

6034. Measure of Capacity for all 
Liquids. 

Tun. Pipes. Hhds. Bbls. Gallons. Quarts. pints. Gills. 

1 = 2= 4 =8 = 252 = 1008 = 2016 = 8064 

1 = 2 = 4 = 126 = 504 = 1008 = 4032 

1 = 2 = 63 = 252 = 504 = 2016 

1 = 31 >^ = 126 = 252 = 1008 

1 = 4 = 8 = 32 

1 = 2 = 8 

1 = 4 

The gallon is the Imperial measure of 
277.274 cubic inches ; and the gill contains 5 
ounces avoirdupois of water. In addition to 
the above measures, there is the Tierce of 
42 gallons, and the Punch e(m of 84 gallons. 

6035. Comparative Value of Imperial 
Measure and U. S. Liquid Measure. 

Impeiial. Unitetl States. Gall. Qt. Pints. Gills. 

1 Gallon = 1.20032 Gallons, or 1 1 2.41 

1 Quart = 1.20032 Quarts, or 10 1.60 

1 Pint = 1.200.32 Pints, or 1 0.80 

1 Gill = 1.20032 Gills, or 1.20 

6036, Imperial Liquid Measure Ex- 
pressed in Litres. 

2.86234 Hectolitres 

1.43117 
= 4.54339 Litres 
= 1.13585 '' 
= 5.67925 Decilitres 
= 1.41981 
Dry or Corn Measure. 

Capacity in 
Quarter. Bushels. Pecks. Gallons. pints. Cubic Inches. 

1 = 8 = 32 = 64 = 512 = 17,745.536 

1= 4= 8= 64= 2,218.192 

1 = 2 = 16 = 554.548 

1 = 8 = 277.274 

1 = 34.659 

The above capacities are for siri^cfe measure; 

the heaped measures contain nearly ^ more, 

the heaped bushel containing 28154 cubic 

inches. 

6038. Relative Value of Imperial Dry 
Measure and United States Dry Mea- 
sure. 

fmne! ial. Unitcil States. Qr. 

1 Quarter = 1.03151 Quarters, or 1 
1 Bushel = 1.03151 Bushels, or 
1 Peck = 1.03151 Pecks, or 
1 Gallon =4.12604 Quarts, or 
1 Pint = 1.03151 Pint, or 



1 Hogshead 
1 Barrel 
1 Gallon 
1 Quart 
1 Pint 
IGill 
6037. 



Bush. 


Pecks. 


Qts. pint*. 





1 


0.1.33 


1 





1 0.016 




1 


0.404 

4 0.252 

1.031 



526 


TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 


6039. 


Relative Value of Imperial Measure and United States Standard 




Apothecaries Measure. 




Gal. Pint. Fl. Oz. Fl. Dr. Minims. 


1 Imp. 


Gallon = 1.20032 U. S. Gallons, or 1 1 9 5 7.66 


1 *' 


Flnt = 1.20032 " Pints, or 13 1 38.45 


1 " 


Fluid Ounce = .960256 " Fluid Ounces, or 7 40.92 


1 '' 


Fluid Drachm = .950256 " Fluid Drachms, or 57.62 


1 '' 


Minim = .960256 " Minims, or .96 



6040. Imperial Dry Measure Expressed 
in Litres. 
1 Quarter = 2.90777 Hectolitres 
1 Bushel = 3.63471 Dekalitres 
1 Feck = 9.08677 Litres 

1 Gallon ^ 4.54338 " 
1 Pint = 5.67922 Decilitres 

6041. The English Last is an English 
measure of various articles. A last of soap, 
ashes, herrings, and some other articles, is 2 
barrels. A last of com is 10 quarters. A last 
of gun-po-wuer, 24 barrels. A last of flax or 
feathers, 1,700 pounds. A last of wool, 12 
sacks. 

6042. The Scotch Pint. A Scotch pint 
contains 105 cubic inches, and is equal to 4 
English pints. 21i Scotch pints make a far- 
lot of wheat. 

6043. English "Wood Measures. 
Wood is sold in England by the stack, skid, 
quintal, billet, and bundle. A stack is 108 
solid feet, and usually piled 12 feet long, 
3 feet high, and 3 feet wide. A quintal of 
wood is 100 lbs. A skid i,^ a round bundle of 
sticks, 4 feet long. A one-notch skid girts 16 
inches. A two-notch skid, 23 inches. A 
three-notch skid, 28 inches. A four-notch 
skid, 33 inches. A five-notch skid, 38 inches. 
A billet of wood is a bundle of sticks 3 feet 
long, and girts 7, 10, or 14 inches, and these 
bundles sell by the score or hundred. A 
score is 20, and comes from the count by 
tally, or marks. Faggots of wood are bundles 
of brush, 3 feet long, 2 feet round. A load of 
faggots is 50 bundles. 

6014. English Coinage. English 
money is reckoned in pounds, shillings, pence 
and farthings thus symboled and relatively 
valued. 

£ s. d. q. 

1 = 20 = 240 = 960 
1 = 12 = 48 
1 = 4 
The farthing, or fourth part of a penny, is 
always written in the form of the fraction of a 
penny, one farthing beiug ^ penny, 2 farthings 
5 penny, &c. The standard sovereign is 
made of 22 carats pure gold and 2 carats 
copper alloy. The coin weighs 123.274 Troy 
ffvains ; and the standard value of gold is 
£3, 17, 10^ ^ Troy ounce, or £46, 14, 6 ^ 
Troy pound. The half-sovereign, or 10 shil- 
ling gold coin is of the same standard, and 
half the weight and value of the sovereign. 
The standard shilling is composed of 222 
parts pure silver alloyed with 18 parts copper. 
The coin weighs 87/^] Troy grains; and'the 
standard value is £3, 6, 6 "^ pound troy; 
consequently 66 shillings weigh exactly 1 
pound Troy. The crowH, or 5 shilling piece, 
the half-crown, value 2s, 6d, and the six 
pence, are of the same standard and relative 
weights;. 

6045. French Weights and Measures. 
There are two systems of weights in use in 



France; the syst^me usucl, or old Binary* 
and the more modem Decimal system. The 
former is still the most used in buying and 
selling, but the decimal system is already em- 
ployed for all scientific purposes. 

6046. French Binary Weights. These 
are more or less in common use in France, 
but are gradually being superseded by the 
decimal system. 



g:ain. Livre, Once. 



GroB. 



1 = 2 = 32 =^ 256 = 768 = 18,432 
1 =^ 16 = 128 = 384 = 9,216 
1 = 8 = 24 = 576 
1=3= 72 

1 = 24 

6047. French Binary Weights Com- 
pared with Avoirdupois Weight. French 
Apothecaries weight is the same as the above, 
except that the livre contains 12 instead of 16 
onces. The old French grain was equivalent 
to .820 of a Troy grain, but the new French 
grain (of 1812) is equal to .8365228 grains 
Troy. This would make the French Binary 
weight, as compared with Avoirdupois weight. 

Avoirdupois. 
1 French Grain = .8365 Grains 

1 " Denier = 20.0765 " 

1 " Gros = 60.2296 " 

1 " Once = 1.1023 Ounces 

1 " Livre = 1.1023 Pounds 

1 " Kilogramme = 2.2046 " 

6048. French Binary Weights Com- 
pared with XJ. S. Apothecaries Weight. 

Lbs. Oz. Dims Scruples G aina. 

1 French Livre (16 oz) = l 4 1 9.3941 

1 " " (12oz) = l 1 2.0456 

1 " Once = 10 1.8371 

1 " Gros = 10 0.2296 

1 " Denier = 1 0.0765 

1 " Grain = .8365 

6049. Value of French Binary vVeights 
in Troy Weight. 



Lb. 

1 French Livre (16 oz.) =1 
1 " " (12 oz.) =1 

1 " Once = 

1 -^ Gros = 

1 " Denier = 

1 " Grain = 



Oz. Dwt. Gr. 
4 1 5.184 

21.888 

1 1.824 
2 12.228 

20.076 
.8365 



6050. Value of French Binary Weights 
in Grams. 

1 French Livre (16 oz.) = 4.9957 Hectograms 

1 '^ " (12 oz.) = 3.7468 

1 " Once = 3.1223 Dekagrams 

1 " Gros = 3.9028 Grams. 

1 " Denier = 1.3009 

1 " Grain = .0542 

6051. Old French Linear Measure. 
The former measures of length in Franco 
were the 

Toise =1.949 metres, or 6.3945 feet 

Foot (pied) = .32484 " = 12.785 inches 
Inch(pouce)= .02707 '' = 1.0654 " 
Line (ligne) or ^ inch = .002256 metre 

The metre is equal to 3 ft. 11 lines old 
French measure. 



TABLES OF ]V E 1 Cr K T S , MEASURES, ETC. 



527 



6053. French. Decimal Weights and 
Measures. The French Gramme, litre, metre 
and are, are precisely the same as in the 
American Decimal system. They are founded 
on the same standard unit, the metre; and 
therefore represent respectively the same 
lengths, weights and capacity. The measures 
of capacity in France are multiples and divi- 
sions of the litre, which is the measure occu- 



pied by a kilogram (15434 Troy grains) oi 
distilled water at its greatest density. It ex- 
ceeds the old Paris pinte by ^4, and is equal 
to 35 fluid ounces and 103 minims, or 1.7608 
Imperial pints, or 61.028 English cubic inches. 
4i litres make an Imperial gallon, within 
about 12 /3. The following table will show 
the relations between the Litre and the Impe- 
rial gallon of 277.2738 cubic inches. 













Imperial 


Litres. 




Cubic Inches. 


Gals. 


Pts. 


Fl.% FI.3 Min. 




Millilitre 


.061028 










16.9 


TTTIT 


Centilitre 


.61028 








2 


49 


tV 


Decilitre 


6.1028 






3 


4 


10.36 


1 


Litre 


61.028 




1 


15 


1 


43.69 


10 


Dekalitre 


610.28 


2 


1 


12 


1 


16.9 


100 


Hectolitre 


6102.8 


22 





1 


4 


49 


1000 


Kilolitre 


61028. 


220 





16 


6 


40 


10000 


Myrialitre 


610280. 


2201 


(or 275i bushels.) | 



6053. French Money. In France 
money is reckoned in francs and centimes. 
The centime is the t^u part of a franc, 5 cen- 
times being represented by a sou ; so that 20 
sous are equivalent to a franc. The same 
system of coinage is also at present in use in 
Belgium, Switzerland, and Italy. 

6054. Foreign Medicinal Weights. 

The following are divided as our Apotheca- 
ries' weight: The pound of Austria weighs 
6482.42 grains; Bavaria, 5556.24; Holland, 
5787.75; Lubec, 5697.09; iSTuremberg (German 
pound), 5522.96; Poland, 5533.25; Prussia, 
5113.99; Sweden, 5498.01; Venice (sottile), 
4649.17. 

The division of the following differs in the 
scr'jplo being divided into 24 grains : Bologna, 
5026.32; Lucca, 5162.67; Modena, 5254.61; 
Parma, 5062.35; Portugal, 5312.23; Rome, 
5233.25; Spain, 5325.84; Tuscanv, 5240.49; 
Piedmont (Turin), 5123.49. The Naples 
pound contains 5490.63 Troy grains; the ounce 
6055. Foreign Money, Weights, and 



contains 10 drachms ; the scruple 20 grains. 

The old Paris pound was divided into 16 
ounces; the scruple into 24 grains. The 
pound by which drugs are weighed in Turkey 
is the Tchegy, equal to 4957 grains, and is 
divided into 100 drachms, each drachm into 
16 killos, and each k^ilo into 4 grains. 

The obolu is half a Spanish scruple ; 3 sili- 
cua make 1 obolo, and 4 grains a silieua. 

The commercial pound in several countries 
difi'ers from the pharmaceutical. The civil 
pound of Bavaria and mark of Yienna are 
each about 19f avoirdupois ounces. That of 
Holland is the French kilogram, or 12 
grains more than 2 pounds 3|- ounces avoir- 
dupois. The mark is half a kilogram. The 
Coburg commercial pound is nearly 18 ounces 
avoirdupois. 

The unit of the British India system of 
weights is the tola, equal to 180 Troy grains. 
32 tolas are equal to 1 pound Troy. The 
maund is equal to 100 Troy ounces. 
Measures, Compared with American. 





MONEY. 


LENGTH. 


LIQUID. 


WEIGHT. 


Name 

of 
Coin. 


Value in 

American 

Dollars, 

Gold. 


Name 

of 
Mea- 
Bure. 


Length 

in 
Inches, 
English. 


Name 

of 

Measure. 


Contents 
in Cubic 
Inches. 


Name 

of 

Weight. 


Ounces 
Avoird 


England 

America 

Austria 

Denmark 

France 

Holland 

Portugal 

Prussia 

Russia 

Spain 

Sweden 


Sovereign 

Dollar 

Florin 

DoUar 

Franc 

Florin 

Milreis 

Dollar 

Rouble 

Dollar 


4.80 

1.00 

' .48^ 

.53 

.19 

.40 

1.12 
.70 
.79^ 

1.00 


Foot 

Foot 

Foot 

Foot 

Metre 

Foot 

Foot 

Foot 

Foot 

Foot 

Foot 


12 

12 

12.45 

12.35 

39.37 

11.14 

12.96 

12.36 

12 

11.03 

12 


Gallon 

Gallon 

Eimer 

Anker 

Litre 

Anker 

Almude 

Eimer 

Veddras 

Arroba 

Eimer 


277i 

231 

3452 

2355 

61.028 

2331 

1040 

4200 

752 

978 

4794 


ft, Avoird. 

Pound 

Pound 

Pound 

Kilo gran 

Pound 

Pound 

Poand 

Pound 

Pound 

Pound 


16. 

16. 

19.76 

17.65 

35.28 

35.28 

16.19 

16.51 

14.44 

16.23 

15. 


The rate of exchange varies, but the value of money is taten, reckoning silver at $1.20 per ounce. j 



6056. Foreign Measures. 

The kauua of Sweden = nearly 2.62 litres, 
or about 4 pints 12 ounces imperial. 

The pott (half kanue) of Denmark = .9653 
ntre. 

The arroba of Spain = 16.073 litres. 

The almude of Portugal = 16.451 litres. 

The barile of ^"aples = 43.6216 litres; of 
Rome, .58.5416 litres ; of Tuscany, 45.584 litres. 

The wedro of Russia (10 stof or 30 Russian 



pounds) = 12.29 litres, or 21 pints 12 ounces 
125 drachms imperial. 

The mass of Wurtemburg = 1.537 litres, 
or about 3 pints 14| ounces imperial. 

6057. Roman Money. The Romans, 
like other ancient nations, at first had no 
coined money, but either exchanged commo- 
dities with one another, or used a certain 
weight of uncoined brass, or other metal. 
Hence the names which indicated certain 



528 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



pieces of money, when coin came to be nsed, 
were the same as those which were used to 
indicate weiprhts. 

6058. Roman Brass Coins. The first 
brass coin that was nsed at Rome was called 
As, made in the reign of Servius Tullius ; and 
being stamped with the heads of oxen, sheep, 
swine, &c., was called pecunia, from pecns. 
Hence ^s, brass, is often put for money; 
JErarium, for treasury, &c. Some time after- 
wards the stamp was changed, and on one 
side it bore the figure of Janus ; on the 
other the beak of a ship. The As originally 
weighed a pound, but was gi'adually reduced, 
and in the first Punic war, Asses were coined 
of only 2 ounces in weight; in the second 
Punic war, of only 1 ounce ; and in the year 
of the city 563, of only half an ounce. The 
other brass coins were the Semissis, the 
Triens, the Quadrans or Teruncius, and the 
Sextans. The As, in value of our money, 
about li cents; the Semissis, half an As; 
Triens, one-third; Quadrans, or Teruncius, 
one-fourth; Sextans, one-sjxth. 

6059. Roman Silver Coins. Silver was 
first coined in the year of the city 484, five 
years before the first Punic war ; the impres- 
sions upon which were usually, on one side, 
carriages drawn by two or four beasts, and on 
the reverse, the head of Roma, with a helmet. 
On some were stamped the figure of Yictory. 
The coins of silver were the Sestertius, Quin- 
arius, Denarius, and Centussis. Sestertius, 
marked L.L.S. for libra libra semis, or by 
abbreviation H. S., worth 2^ Asses, or, in our 
money, 3| cents ; Quinarius, marked Y, worth 
5 Asses, 71 cents; Denarius, marked X, worth 
10 Asses, Ibk cents; Centussis, worth 10 
Denarii, nearly $1,60. 

6060. Roman Gold Coins. Gold coin 
was first struck in the year of the city 546, in 
the second Punic war, and called Aureus. The 
stamps upon it were chiefly the images of the 
Emperors. The Aureus, at fii'st, was equal in 
value to 25 Denarii, or 100 Sestertii; or, in our 
money, to $3.98. Soon afterwards it was 
debased, and under the later Emperors was 
worth only $3.70. Accounts were kept in 
Sestertii and Sestertia. The Sestertium was 
not a coin, but a shorter expression of 1000 
Sestertii, or, in our money, about $40. We 
find also mentioned the Libra, containing 12 
ounces of silver, worth $15, and the Talentum, 
worth about $965. Besides the ordinary 
coins, there were various medals struck to 
commemorate important events, properly 
called Medallions; for what we commonly 
term Roman medals were their current money. 

6061. Roman Measures of Length. 
The Roman measures of length or distance 
were feet, cubits, paces, stadia, and miles. 

M. Yds. Ft. In. 

Foot 12 

Cubit 16 

Passus, or Pace 5 

Stadium, or Furlong 208 3 

8 Stadia, or 1000 Paces.-.. 1 
The Roman Acre contained 240 feet in 
length, and 120 in breadth, that is, 28,800 
square feet. 

6062. Roman Weights. The chief 
weight among the Romans was the As, or 
Libra, a pound, equal in English Troy weight 
to 10 ounces 18 dwt. 13 grains; this Libra 



was divided into 12 parts, Uncise (ounces), 
and these Uncise into several weights of lower 
denominations, 

6063. Roman Measures of Capacity. 
The most common measure of capacity was 
the Amphora, called also Quadrantal or Cadus, 
containing nearly 9 English gallons. They 
had also a measure called Congius, equal to ^ 
of an Amphora, or 1^ gallon English; and 
another called Sextarius, equal to ^ of the 
Congius, or about 1\ pints. 

6064. Roman Division of Time. Rom- 
ulus is said to have divided the year into 10 
months, beginning with March ; ^uma added 
the other 2 months. When Julius Csesar 
became master of the State, he adjusted the 
year according to the course of the sun, and 
assigned to each month the number of days 
which it still contains. This is the famous 
Julian Year, which continues in use to this day 
in all Christian countries, without any varia- 
tion except that of the old and new style, 
occasioned by Pope Gregory, a. d. 1582. The 
Romans divided their months into three parts, 
by Calends, j^ones, and Ides. The 1st day 
was called the Calends, the 5th day the Nones, 
and the 13th the Ides ; except in March, May, 
July, and October, when the Nones fell on 
the 7th, and the Ides on the 15th. The custom 
of dividing time into weeks was introduced 
under the Emperors, being derived from the 
Egyptians ; and the days of the week were 
named from the planets, viz. : Dies Solis, Sun- 
day ; Lunse, Monday ; Martis, Tuesday ; Mer- 
curii, Wednesday ; Jovis, Thursday ; Yeneris, 
Friday; Saturni, Saturday. In marking the 
days, they counted backwards; thus they 
called the last day of December, Pridie Calen- 
das Januarii, or the day before the Calends of 
January; the 30th day they called the third 
day before the Calends of January ; and so on 
through the year. In leap-year the 24th and 
25th days of February were both called the 6th 
day before the Calends of March, and hence 
this year is called Bissextilis. The day, as 
with us, was divided into 12 hours, and lasted 
from six o'clock in the morning till six in the 
evening. The night was divided into four 
watches, each consisting of three hours. The 
Romans had no clocks or watches, and the 
first dial is said to have been erected in Rome 
so late as 447 years after the building of the 
city. 

6065. Scriptural Measure of Length. 

M. Yds. Ft. In. B.C. 

A Finger 2i 

A Hand breadth 3 ij 

ASpan 10 2^ 

A Cubit 1 9 2i 

A Fathom. 2 1 3 li 

Ezekiel's reed 3 

Do. according to others 3 1 11 Of 

The Measuring Line... 48 1 11 

A Stadium or Furiong. 243 6 

A Sabbath-dav's Journey 1216 

The Eastern Mile 1 672 

A Day's Journey 33 288 

6066. Scriptural Liquid Measure. 

(Jals. Qts. Pts. 

The Log Of 

The Firkin or Metretes 3 li 

TheHin 110 

TheBath 7 2 Oi 

The Homer or Cor 75 2 li 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC, 



529 



6067. Scriptural Dry Measure. 

Bush. Pks. Pts. 

The Cab 2| 

The Omer 5 

The Seah 1 1 

The Ephah 3 3J 

The Lethech 4 04 

The Homer 8 H 

6068. Scriptural Weights. 

Lbs. Oz. Dwts. Gr. 

A Shekel 9 2i 

A Maneh 2 3 6 10 

A Talent 113 10 1 10 

6069. Scriptural Money. 

f Cts. 

A Gerah 2 

A Zuzah 12 

A Bekah 25 

A Shekel (Silver) 50 

Golden Daric, or Dram 5 18 

A Shekel of Gold 9 00 

A Maneh or Mina 29 50 

A Talent of Silver 1,707 00 

A Talent of Gold 27,320 00 

6070. Jewish. Method of Reckoning 
Time. The day, reckoning from sunrise, 
and the night, reckoning from sunset, were 
each divided into 12 equal parts, called the 
1st, 2nd, 3rd, 4th, &c., hours. The first 
watch was from sunset to the third hour of 
the night. The second, or middle watch, was 
from the third hour to the sixth. The third 
watch, or cock-crowing, was from the sixth 
Lour to the ninth. The fourth, or morning 
watch, was from the ninth hour of the night 
to sunrise. 

6071. Russian Money. In Russia, 
money is calculated in Boubles and Kopeks, 
the silver Rouble consisting of 100 Kopeks, 
and equivalent to about 79^ cents of our 
money. 

6072. Russian Weights. The Russian 
pound is 6317^ grains, or the weight of 25.019 
cubic inches of water. The Pood, about 36 
pounds, I5 ounces avoirdupois. 

6073. Russian Lineal Measure. The 
Ri*ssian foot is the same as the American. 

1 T7erst 500 Sashens 

1 Sashen =: 3 Arsheens 

1 Arsheen = 2i Feet 

6074. Russian Measures of Capacity. 
The Chetwert is equivalent to 5 bushels 6^ 
gallons imperial. The Tschetwerick, 5| im- 
perial gallons. 10 Tschetwericki make 1 Kulil 
or Sarh. 

The Wedro consists of 3| wine gallons, and 
40 Wedroja make 1 Fass. 

6075. Austrian Money is reckoned in 
Florins and Kreutzers ; the Florin being 
equivalent to about 48| cents American. 

20 Kreutzers = 1 Zwanziger 
60 '' =1 Florin 

2 Florins = 1 Thaler 
1 Ducat = 4f Florins 

6076. Austrian Weights. The Aus- 
trian pound is rather less than Ik pounds avoir- 
dupois. 

1 Sanne = 275 Pounds 

1 Pound = 4Yindlinge 

1 Yindlinge = 4 TJnzen 

1 TJnze = 2 Loth 

6077. Austrian Lineal Measure. The 
Austrian foot measures 12-| inches ; the Nult 
is equivalent to 4f miles. 



6078. Austrian Measures of Capaci- 
ty. The Muth is 50^ imperial bushels. 

1 Muth = 30 Metz 

1 Metz = 64 Moasel 

The liquid Mass or Kanne is about 2i im- 
perial pints, or 1.415 litres. 

6079. Roman Money. This was reckoned 
in PaoU and Bajochi, the latter being about 
equal to 1 cent American. 

1 Scudo = 10 Paoli 

1 Paolo = 10 Bajochi 

6080. Prussian Money. The Prus- 
sians count their money in Thaler s, Silber- 
groschen and Pfennings. 

1 Thaler = 30 Silbergroschen 

1 Silbergroschen = 12 Pfennings. 
The Friedrich d'or is equal to 5 Thalers 20 
Silbergroschen. 

6081. Prussian Weights. The Prus- 
sian j)om«(^ is 16^ ounces avoirdupois. 

1 Cwt. = 110 Pounds 

1 Shipping last = 400 Pounds 

6082. Prussian Lineal Measure. The 
Prussian /oo!f is 12^ in-jhes English. 

1 Ruthe = 12 Feet 

1 Foot = 12 Inches 

1 Inch = 12 Linien 

1 Faden = 6 Feet 

1 Mile = 4| Miles English 

6083. Prussian Measures of Capacity. 
The ScJieffel is equal to Ih bushels. 

1 Wispel = 24 Scheffel 
1 Scheffel = 16 Metz 
The Prussian liquid quart is equivalent to 
1.145 litres, or nearly 2k pints American. 

6084. Money of the Netherlands is 
reckoned in Guilders and Cents, the guilder 
(or silver florin) being about 41 cents of our 
money. The Ducat is equivalent to 5.55 
guilders, and the Stuiver to 5 cents. 

6085. Weights Used in the Nether- 
lands. The pound is 1 pound If ounces 
avoirdupois. 

1 Pound = 10 Lood 

1 Lood = 10 Wigtj 

1 Wigtj = 10 Korrels 

6086. Lineal Measure of the Nether- 
lands. The ell is the same as the metre of 
America. 

IRoede = 10 Ells 

1 Ell = h Palm 

1 Palm = 10 Duim 

1 Duim = 10 Streep 

1 Myl = 1000 Ells or f mile English 

6087. Dry Measure of the Nether- 
lands. The Mudde contains a little more 
than 2f bushels imperial. 

1 Last = 30 Mudden 

1 Mudde = 10 Schepel 

1 Schepel --= 10 Kop 

1 Kop = 10 Maajtes 

6088. Liquid Measure of the Nether- 
lands. The Vat contains 22 ^ imperial 
gallons. 

1 Yat = 100 Kann 

1 Kann = 10 Maajtes 

1 Maajte = 10 Vingerh 

6089. Portuguese Money. In Portu- 
gal, money is reckoned in Beis. For the 
value of the coins see iSTo. 6055 

1 Yintem = 20 Reis 

1 Crusado = 400 " 

IMilrei = 1000 " 

1 Conto de reis = 1000 Milreis 



530 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



6090. Dutch Weights and Measures. 

The following are the points in which Hol- 
land differs from the rest of the ISTetherlands. 

Dutch. English. 

1 Foot =11| Inches 

lEll =27 jL, " 

1 Com last =10 qrs. 5J "Winchester Bushels 

1 Aam =41 Imperial gallons 

1 Hoed = 5 Chaldrons 

1 Freight last=4000 Pounds. 

1 Ballast last =2000 Pounds 

6091. Spanish Money;. The Dollar of 
Spain contains 20 Eeals, and is about the same 
value as the American. The coins used in 
different parts of Spain are various; al- 
most every Province having a different system 
of coinage. 

6092. Spanish Weights. The CastH- 
ian Marca is 7 ounces 3.16 dwts. Troy. 

1 Marca = 8 Onzas 

1 Onza = 8 Ochaves 

1 Ochave = 72 Granos 

The quintal is equivalent to lOlf pounds 

avoirdupois. 

1 Quintal = 4 Arrobas 

1 Arroba = 25 Libras 

1 Quintal Macho = 6 Arrobas 
Precious stones are weighed by the ounce 

of 431 5 Troy grains. 

1 Ounce = 140 Quilates 

1 Quilate = 4 Granos 

6093. Spanish Lineal Measure. The 
Pie equals 11^ inches, and the Legua 4i En- 
glish miles. 

1 Estado = 2 Yaras 

1 Yara = 3 Pies 

6094. Spanish Drv Measure. The 
Fanega is 12^ imperial gallons. 

1 Cahiz = 12 Fanegas 

1 Fanega = 12 Almudes 
1 Almude = 4 Cuartillos 

6095. Spanish Liquid Measure. The 
Cantaro or Arroha Mayor contains 3 gallons 
3f pints imperial ; the Arroba Menor for oil 
is 2 gallons bh pints imperial. 

1 Cantaro = 8 Azumbres 

1 Azumbra = 4 Cuartillos 

1 Moyo = 16 Cantaros 

1 Pipa = 27 *' 

1 Bota = 30 '' 

6096. Swedish Money. The Biksdaler 
hanco is worth about 40 cents of our money, 
and is divided into 48 skillings. 

6097. Swedish Weights. The Sical 
pound is 15 ounces avoirdupois. The Schip 
pound is equivalent to 400 skal pounds. The 
Mark, used in weighing gold, consists of 6 
oz. 16 dwt. Troy. 

6098. Swedish Lineal Measure. The 
Swedish Foot is the same as ours. 

1 Faam = 3 Alnar 

1 Alnar = 2 Feet 

1 Foot = 2f Yerthum 

6099. Swedish Dry Measure. The 
Tonn is equivalent to 4 imperial bushels. 

1 Tonn = 8 Quarts 

1 Quart = 4 Kappar 

1 " = 7 Cans 

1 Can = 8 Quarrtiers 

6100. Swedish Liquid Measure. The 
Fuder contains 2 pipes. 

1 Fuder = 4 Oxhoofte 

1 Oxhoofte = 3 Eimer 

1 Eimer = 60 Stop 



6101. Swiss Money is reckoned in 

Francs, the franc being subdivided into 10 

Batmen. The value of the franc is about 27 

cents. This is the old system. {See No. 6053.) 

6102. Swiss Weights. 

1 Hundred- weight = 50 Kilogrammes 

1 Kilogramme = 2 Pounds. 

The hundred-weight is equivalent to llOJ 
pounds avoirdupois; the pound is therefore 
about 17f ounces avoirdupois. 

6103. Swiss Lineal Measure. The 
Helvetian foot is equal to 11^§ inches En- 
glish. 

1 Stab or Staff = 2 Ells 
1 Ell =2 Feet 

16,000 Feet = 1 Hour or Mile 

The Swiss mile is consequently a trifle over 
3 English miles. 

6104. Swiss Dry Measure. The Mal- 
ter is about 4 bushels 1 gallon Imperial mea- 
sure. 

1 Malter = 10 Yiertel 

1 Yiertel = 10 Immir 

6105. Swiss Liquid Measure. The 
Swiss Olim contains 33 Imperial gallons. 

1 Ohm = 100 Maas. 

6106. Turkish Money. In Turkey, 
money is reckond by the Piaster, 22 of which 
are equivalent to $1.00. 

1 Sequin = 100 Piasters 

1 Piaster = 40 Paras 

1 Para = 3 Aspers 

1 Piaster (grush) = 100 Aspers. 

6107. Turkish Weights. The Turkish 
Chequi is 11^ ounces avoirdupois. 

1 Cantaro = 44 Okas 

1 Batman = 6 Okas 

1 Oka = 4 Chequi 

1 Chequi = 100 Drachmas. 

6108. Turkish Lineal Measure. The 
Turks use, for measuring length, the large 
piJc haleU, or 27 ff, inches ; and the small pik 
andassa of 27 ^ inches. 

6109. Turkish Measures of Capacity. 
The dry Killoio contains 7^ imperial gallons ; 
the Fortin, 4 killows. A killow of rice 
should weigh 10 okas. The liquid almud 
contains If imperial gallons. 

6110. Chmese Money. The Chinese 
Tael is $1.56. 

1 Tael = 10 Mace 

1 Mace = 10 Candarin 

1 Candarin = 10 Cash 

6111. Chinese Weights. The CaWy is 
1^ pounds avoirdupois. 

1 Pecul = 100 Cattys 

1 Catty = 16 Taels 

1 Tael = 10 Mazas 

1 Maza = 10 Candarina 

1 Candarin = 10 Cash. 

6112. East Indian Money. In Hindo- 
Stan, money is reckoned in Rupees, Annas, and 
Pice, the Eupee being about 45 cents of our 
money. 

1 Eupee = 16 Annas 

1 Anna =: 12 Pice 

10,000 Eupees = 1 Lakh 

6113. Mexican Money. The Mexican 
gold dollar is worth about 96 cents United 
States coin; the Mexican silver dollar is 
reckoned equal to the United States gold 
doUar. 

1 Doubloon = 16 Dollars 

1 DoUar = 8 EeaJs. 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



531 



6114. Monte- Video Money. TheDoZ- 
\ar or Peso Corriente is equal to 80 cents 
United States coin. 

1 Dollar = 8 Eeales = 100 Centesimos 

6115. Brazilian Monev. In Brazil, 
money is reckoned in Reis, 40U0 of which are 
equal to £1 sterling, or $4.84 United States 
coin. 

1 Milreis = 1000 Reis 

6116. Brazilian Lineal Measure. The 
Brazilian Pe or Foot is the same as the 
English foot ; the Palma is equivalent to 9| 
English inches. 10 Palmas equal 1 Bra9a or 
Sf English yards. The Bra^a is also sub- 
divided into 2 Varas and 3^ Covados. The 
Legoa or mile is about 4| English miles. 

6117. Brazilian Weights. The weights 
in ordinary use are as follows, the Quintal 



being equal to 91 i pounds avoirdupois. 
1 Quintal = 4 Arrobas 

1 Arroba = 32 Arratels 

Gold and silver are weighed by the Marc« 
of 7 ounces 7^ dwts Troy. 

1 Marco = 8 Onpas 

1 Onga = 8 Oitavas 

1 Oitava = 72 Granos 

Precious stones are sold by the Quilate, 
equal to 4^g- dwts. Troy. 

1 Oitava = 3 Escrupulos 

1 Escrupulo = 3 Quilates 

1 Quilate = 4 Granos 

6118. Brazilian Dry Measure. The 
Brazilian Mayo is equivalent to 22 i imperial 
bushels. 

1 Mayo = 15 Fanegas 

1 Fanega = 4 Alqueires 



6119. Decimal Approximations for Facilitating Calculations. 



Lineal feet multiplied by 


.00019 


'' yards 


it 


.000568 


Square inches 


il 


.007 


" feet 


a 


.111 


'' yards 


il 


.0002067 


Circular inches 


il 


.00546 


Cylindrical inches 


11 


.0004546 


" feet 


11 


.02909 


Cubic inches 


11 


.00058 


" feet 


11 


.03704 


U ii 


11 


6.2321 


" inches 


a 


.003607 


Bushels 


11 


.0476 


u 


It 


1.284 


(I 


" 2218.2 


Cubic feet 


11 


.779 


Cubic inches 


ii 


.00045 


Pounds 


il 


.009 


Pounds 


li 


.00045 


Cylindrical feet 


a 


4.895 


" inches 


ii 


.002832 


Cubic inches 


it 


.263 


K it 


il 


.281 


(I il 


it 


.283 


IC (i 


il 


.3225 


(S ii 


it 


.3037 


it l( 


it 


.26 


ii ii 


il 


.4103 


ii ii 


It 


.2636 


ii il 


it 


.4908 


Cylindrical inches 


il 


.2065 


li a 


It 


.2168 


ii li 


11 


.2223 


it u 


It 


.2533 


(I li 


it 


.2385 


(( 11 


It 


.2042 


ti il 


It 


.3223 


(( 11 


« 


.207 


a it 


il 


.3854 



= mUes. 



square feet, 
square yards, 
acres. 

square feet, 
cubic feet., 
cubic yards, 
cubic feet, 
cubic yards, 
imperial gallons. 

a It 

cubic yards. 

cubic feet. 

cubic inches. 

bushels. 

bushels. 

hundredweights. 

tons 

imperial gallons. 

il It 

pounds of cast iron. 
" wrought do. 

'* steel. 

" copper. 

" brass. 

" zinc. 

" lead. 

tin. 
" mercury. 

" cast iron. 

" wrought iron. 

" steel. 

" copper. 

'' brass. 

" zinc. 

" lead. 

tin. 
" mercury. 



6120. Memoranda Connected with 
Water. 1 cubic foot of water = 62.4 pounds. 
1 cubic inch = .036 pounds. 1 gallon im- 
perial = 10 pounds; or = 0.16 cubic feet. 
1 cubic foot of water = 6.2321 imperial gal- 
lons; or, approximately = 6J gallons. 1 
cwt. of water = 1.8 cubic feet = 11.2 gallons. 
1 ton of water = 35.9 cubic feet = 224 gal- 
lons. Cubic feet of water X .557 = cwt. 
approximately. Cubic feet of water X .028 
:^ tons approximately. 1 cubic foot of sea 
water = 64.14 pounds. Weight of sea water 
= weight of fresh water X 1.028. 

6121. Pressure of the Atmosphere. 
In engineering, the common pressure of the 



atmosphere, 14.6 pounds to the square inch, 
is taken as a standard of that exerted by 
other elastic fluids. Thus, steam, or air con- 
densed so as to exert a pressure of 30 pounds 
to the square inch, is said, in round numbers, 
to be of 2 atmospheres ; at 45 pounds to the 
inch, 3 atmospheres, &c. 

6122. Memoranda Connected with 
Light. Telocity of light 192,000 miles per 
second, nearly. Decomposition of light : The 
seven prismatic colors of a ray of light are 
violet, indigo, blue, green, yellow, orange, 
red. Yiolet is the maximum chemical or 
actinic color ; yellow the maximum illumina- 
ting color, and red the heat color. 



533 



TABLES OF WEiaRTS, M E A S U B E S, ETC. 





6123. 


Force of tlie Wind. 


Miles 
Hour. 


Feet 

per 

Minute. 


Feet 

per 

Second. 


Force in 
lbs. per 
Sq. Foot 


Description. 


1 

2 

3 

4 

5 

10 

15 

20 

25 

30 

35 

40 

45 

50 

60 

70 

80 

100 


88 

176 

264 

352 

440 

880 

1320 

1760 

2200 

2640 

3080 

3520 

3960 

4400 

5280 

6160 

7040 

8800 


1.47 

2.93 

4.4 

5.87 

7.33 

14.67 

22. 

29.3 

36.6 

44. 

51.3 

58.6 

66. 

73.3 

88. 
102.7 
117.3 
146.6 


.005 

.020) 

.044/ 

.079) 

.123 f 

.492) 

1.107 j 

1.970 ) 

3.067 J 

4.429 ) 

6.027 ( 

7.870) 

9.900 j 

12.304 

17.733) 

24.1531 

31.490) 

49.200 1 


Hardly perceptible. 
Just perceptible. 

Gentle breeze. 

Pleasant breeze. 

Brisk gale. 

High -wind. 

Very high wind. 
Storm. 
Great storm. 

Hurricane. 



sure the length, breadth, and height of the 
crib, inside of the rail; multiply the length 
by the breadth, and the product by the height; 
then divide the result by 2, and you have the 
number of bushels of sheUed com in. the crib. 
In measuring the height, of course the height 
of the corn is intended. And there will be 
found to be a difference in measuring corn in 
this mode between fall and spring, because it 
shrinks very much in the winter and spring, 
and settles down. 

6129. Percentage of Pork to Live 
"Weight. The following table shows the 
proportion of pork to live weight of fat swine : 

Live Weight in Per Cent. 

Stones of 14 pounds. of Pork. 

Above 40 stones 87 to 88 

From 35 to 40 stones 84 to 8G 



6124. Velocity of Sound. In aii-, 1.142 
feet per second. In water, 4,900 feet. 
Through iron, 17,500 feet. Through copper, 
10,378 feet. Through wood, 12,000 to 16,000 
feet. 

Distant sounds may be heard on a still 
day : Human voice, 150 yards. Eifle 5,300 
yards. Military band, 5,200 yards. Cannon 
35,000 yards. 

6125. Heat-conducting Power of 
Building Materials. Conducting power of 
substances, slate being 1000. 



Chalk 564 

Asphaltum 451 

Oak 336 

Lath and plaster.. 255 
Cement 200 



Slate 1000 

Lead 5210 

Flagstone 1110 

Portland stone. . . 750 

Brick 600 to 730 

Fire-brick 620 

6126. Properties of the Circle. Diam- 
eter X 3.14159 = circumference. Diameter 
X .8862 = side of an equal square. Diameter 
X .7071 = side of an inscribed square. Ea- 
dius squared, X 3.14159 = area of circle. 
Diameter squared, X .7854 = area of circle. 
Eadius X 6.28318 -— circumference. Cir- 
cumference -f- 3. 14159 = diam eter. Circum- 
ference — 3.54-/ area of circle. Diameter = 
1.128-/ area of circle. 

6127. To Determine the Weight of 
Live Cattle. Measure in inches the girth 
round the breast, just behind the shoulder- 
blade, and the length of the back from the 
tail to the forepart of the shoulder-blade. 
Multiply the girth by the length, and divide 
by 144. If the girth is less than 3 feet, mul- 
tiply the quotient by 11 ; if between 3 feet 
and 5 feet, multiply by 16 ; if between 5 feet 
and 7 feet, multiply by 23 ; if between 7 feet 
and 9 feet, multiply by 31. If the animal is 
lean, deduct ^q from the result. Or: Take 
the girth and length in feet, multiply the 
square of the girth by the length, and multiply 
the product by 3.36. The result will be the 
answer in pounds. The live weight, multiplied 
by .605, gives a near approximation to the net 
weight. 

6128. To Measure Com in the Crib. 
Com is generally put up in cribs made of 
rails, but the rule will apply to a crib of any 
size or kind. Two cubic feet of good, sound, 
dry corn in the ear, will make a bushel of 
shelled corn. To get, then, the quantity of 
sheUed com in a crib of com in the ear, mea- 



30 to 35 
25 to 30 
20 to 25 
15 to 20 
Under 15 



.83 to 84 
.81 to 82 
80 
.77 to 78 
.75 to 77 



6130. Measures for Housekeepers. 

"Wlieat flour 1 pound is 1 quart. 

Indian meal 1 " 2 oz. "1 " 

Butter when soft.--. 1 " "1 " 

Loaf sugar, broken.. 1 " "1 " 

White sugar, powd-. 1 " 1 oz. "1 " 
Best brown sugar.-- 1 " 2 oz. ''1 " 

Eggs 10 eggs are 1 pound. 

Flour 8 quarts" 1 peck. 

Flour 4 pecks " 1 bushel. 

16 large table-spoonfuls are i pint. 

8 large table-spoonfuls are 1 gill. 

4 large table-spoonfuls are k giil- 

2 gills are 5 pint. 

2 pints are 1 quart. 

4 quarts are 1 gallon. 

A common sized tumbler holds i pint. 

A common sized wine-glass I gill. 

60 drops are equal to 1 tea-spoonful. 

6131. Sizes of Drawing Paper. 

"Wove Antique 52 X31 in. 

Uncle Sam 48 Xl20in. 

Double Elephant 40 X26 in. 

Emperor 40 x60 in. 

Atlas 32 X26 in. 

Colombier 33fx23 in. 

Elephant 27f x23i in. 

Imperial 29 X 21 J in. 

Super Eoyol 27 Xl9 in. 

Eoyal 24 Xl9 in. 

Medium 22 Xl8 in. 

Demy 19 Xl5iin. 

Cap 13 Xl6 in. 

6132. Barometrical Rules for Prog- 
nosticating the "Weather. I. After a 
continuance of dry weather, if the barometer 
begins to fall slowly and steadily, rain will 
certainly ensue; but if the fine weather has 
been of long duration, the mercury may fall 
for 2 or 3 days before any perceptible change 
takes place, and the longer time that elapses 
before rain comes, the longer the wet weather 
is likely to last. 

II. Conversely, if, after a great deal of 
wet weather, with the barometer below its 
mean height, the mercury begins to rise stead- 
ily and slowly, fine weather will come, though 
2 or 3 wet days may first elapse ; and the fine 
weather will be the more permanent, in pro- 
portion to the length of time that passes 
before the perceptible change takes place. 



TABLES OF IV E I G H T S , MEASURES, ETC. 



533 



III. On either of the two foregoing suppo- 
sitions, if the change immediately ensues on 
the motion of the mercury, the change will 
not be permanent. 

lY. If the barometer rises slowly and 
steadily for two days together, or more, fine 
weather will come, though for those two days 
it may rain incessantly, and the reverse ; but 
if the barometer rises for two days or more 
during rain, and then, on the appearance of 
fine weather, begins to fall again, the fine 
weather will be very transient, and vice 
versa. 

T. A sudden fall of the barometer in 
spring or autumn indicates wind ; in summer, 
during very hot weather, a thunder-storm 
may be expected; in winter, a sudden fall 
after frost of some continuance indicates a 
change of wind with thaw and rain; but in a 
continued frost a rise of the mercury indicates 
approaching snow. 

YI. 'So rapid fluctuations of the barometer 
are to be interpreted as indicating either dry 
or wet weather of any continuance; it is only 
the slow, steady, and continued rise or fall, 
that is to be attended to in this respect. 

YII. A rise of the mercury late in the 
autumn, after a long continuance of wet and 
windy weather, generally indicates a change 
of wind to the northern quarters, and the ap- 
proach of frost. 

6133. Melting or Boiling Point of Met- 
als, Liquids, &c. 

Degrees 
Fahr. 

3080° Platinum melts. 

2786 Cast iron melts ; 2696° (M^rveau). 

2500 Steel melts. 

2016 Gold melts (Daniell); 2200° (Kane). 

1996 Copper melts (Kane); 2548° (Daniell). 

1873 Silver melts (Makins); 2233° (Daniell). 

1869 Brass melts (Daniell). 

1000 Iron, bright cherry red (Poillet). 

980 Iron, red heat (Daniell). 

914 Zinc burns (Daniell). 

810 Antimony melts. 

773 Zinc melts (Daniell); 793° (Ghnelin). 

644 Mercury boils (DttmeZZ); QG2^ (Graham). 

630 Vhale oil boils (Graham). 

612 Lead melts (Crighton); 609° (Daniell). 

600 Linseed oil boils. 

560 Sulphur ignites. 

545 Sulphuric acid boils (Phillips); 620° 
(Graham). 

476 Bismuth mQ\t^(Phillips);^l'd°( Gmelin). 

442 Tin melts. 

380 Arsenious acid volatilizes. 

372 Saturated solution of nitrate of ammo- 
nia boils. 

356 Metallic arsenic sublimes. 

336 Saturated solution of acetate of potassa 
boils. 

320 Cane sugar melts, 320° to 400°, baking 
heat of an oven. 

315 Oil of turpentine boils (Kane). 

304 Saturated solution of nitrate of lime 
boils. 

302 Etherification ends. 

275 Saturated solution of carbonate of pot- 
ash boils. 

256 Saturated solution of acetate of soda 
boils. 

248 iSTitric acid, specific gravity 1.42, boils. 

238 Saturated solution of nitre boils. 



236° Saturated solution of sal-ammoniao 

boils. 
226 Sulphur melts (Fownes) ; 232° ( Turner). 
220 Saturated solution of alum, carbonate 
of soda, and sulphate of zinc boils. 
218 Saturated solution of chloride of po- 
tassa boils. 
216 Saturated solution of sulphate of iron, 
sulphate of copper, and nitrate of 
lead boils. 
213 TTater begins to boil in glass (or 213^). 
212 "Water boils in metal, barometer at 30 

inches. 
199 Milk boils. 
194 Sodium melts. 

185 IS'itric acid, specific gravity 1.52, boils. 
180 Starch dissolves in water. 
176 Rectified spirit boils. Benzole distills. 
173 Alcohol, specific gravity 796 to 800, 

boils. 
151 Bees'- wax melts (Kane); 142° (Le- 
page). 
150 Scalding heat. Pyroxylic spirit boils 

(Scanlan). 
145 Albumen coagulates. 
140 Chloroform and ammonia, specific grav- 
ity .945, boils. 
136 Potassium melts (Daniell). 
132 Acetone (pyroacetic spirit) boils (Kane). 
130 Butter melts (130° to 140°). 
122 Mutton suet and styracine melts. 
120 Phosphorus inflames. Friction matches 

ignite. 
116 Bisulphuret of carbon boils (Graham). 
112 Spermaceti and stearine melt. 
Ill Beef tallow melts. 
110 Highest temperature of the human 

body (in lockjaw)., 
106 Mutton tallow melts. 
99 Phosphorus melts (99° to 100°). 
98 Ether, specific gravity .720, boils. 

Blood heat. 
88 Acetous fermentation ceases. "Water 

boils in a vacuum. 
81 Mean temperature at the equator. 
77 Yinous fermentation ends; acetous 

begins. 
67 Lowest temperature of the human 

body (in cholera). 
65 Best temperature of a room (65° to 68). 
62 Oil of anise liquefies ; congeals at 60°. 
60 Mean temperature at Rome. 
50^Mean temperature at London. 
42 Sulphuric acid, specific gravity 1.741, 

congeals (41° to 42°). 
41 Mean temperature of Edinburgh. 
36 Olive oil freezes. 
32 Water freezes. 
30 Milk freezes. 
28 Yinegar freezes. 
20 Strong wine freezes. 

— 4 Mixture of snow and salt. 

— 7 Brandy freezes. 

—39 Mercury freezes (30° to 40°). (See als9 
Nos. 7, 3353, 3459 and 1687, 4^c). 

6134. "Weight of Earth, Rocks, &c. 

A cubic yard of sand or ground weighs about 

30 cwt. Mud, 25 cwt. Marl, 26 cwt. Clay, 

31 cwt. Chalk, 36 cwt. Sandstone, 39 cwt. 
Shale, 40 cwt. Quartz, 41 cwt. Granite, 42 
cwt. Trap, 42 cwt. Slate, 43 cwt. 

To find the weight of a cubic foot of any of 
the above, diride the weight of a cubic yard 



:534r 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



by 27. ThuS; a cubic foot of sand weighs 
f ^, or 1^ cwt., equivalent to about 124 pounds. 
6135. Weight of Various Minerals. 
One cubic foojb of water weighs at a tempera- 
ture of 60° Fahrenheit, 62-|- pounds avoirdu- 
pois. By ascertaining the specific gravity of 
a substance and multiplying with 621 pounds, 
the exact weight of one cubic foot is obtained. 

Pounds 

Avoirdiipois. 

Cubic foot 

8p. Gr. "Weighs. 

Anthracite coal 1.5 94 

Antimonial copper, tetrahedrite, 

or grey copper 5.0 300 

Antimonial silver 9.5 600 

Antimony ore, grey sulphuret. - 4.5 279 

Antimony metal 6.5 400 

Apatite, or phosphate of lime.. 3.0 186 
Arsenical iron pyrites, mis- 

pickel 6.0 370 

Asbestos 3.0 186 

Asphaltum, mineral pitch 1.0 62 

Baryta sulphate 4.5 310 

Baryta carbonate, witherhite. . . 4.0 248 

Bismuth 9.7 600 

Bituminous coal 1.5 90 

Black lead, graphite 2.0 125 

Black jack blende, sulphuret of 

zinc 4.0 250 

Bog iron ore 4.0 250 

Brown haematite 4.0 250 

Building stones, comprising 

granite, gneiss, syenite, &c... 3.0 186 

Calamine 3.3 190 

Chromic iron 4.5 260 

Copper pyrites 4.0 260 

Derbyshire spar, fluor spar 3.0 186 

Feldspar 3.0 190 

Flint 2.5 110 

Loose sand — 95 

Franklinite 5.0 310 

Galena 7.5 465 

Gold (20 carats) 15.7 ) 1000 

" (pure) 19.2 5tol200 

Gypsum 2.3 130 

Iron — cast iron — 450 

" magnetic ore 5.0 310 

" spathic ore 3.0 200 

" " pyrites 5.0 310 

" pyrrhotine, or magnetic 

pyrites 4.5 280 

" specular ore 4.5 290 

" wrought — 487 

Limestone, hydraulic 2.7 150 

" magnesian 2.5 130 

Manganese, binoxide of. 4.8 294 

Malachite 4.0 248 

Mica 2.8 160 

ISTovaculite, or whetstone 3.0 186 

Ochre 3.5 217 

Platinum, metal and ores 16 to 19 1116 

Porcelain clay 2.0 140 

Pyrites, iron 4.5 280 

Quartz, pure, compact 2.6 155 

" loose, angular, and round 

sand — 100 

,Trap 3.0 186 

Titreous copper, copper glance. 5.5 341 

"Wood tin, stream tin 7.0 434 

Zinc, sulphide or blende 4.0 250 

Zincite, red zinc ore 5.5 331 

Zinc carbonate 4.4 268 

Zinc silicate 3.4 200 



{Feuch twanger). 



6136. Table of the Relative Hardness 
and Weight of the Principal Precious 
Stones, &c. 

Sub=t,nc.». =-t |?X! 

Diamond from Ormus 20 3.7 

(pink) 19 3.4 

" (bluish) 19 3.3 

(yellowish) 19 3.3 

'' (cubic) 18 3.2 

Ruby 17 4.2 

" (pale, from Brazil) 16 3.5 

Sapphire 16 3.8 

Topaz 15 4.2 

" (whitish) 14 3.5 

'' (Bohemian) 11 2.8 

Ruby (spinelle) 13 3.4 

Emerald 12 2.8 

Garnet 12 4.4 

Agate 12 2.6 

Onyx 12 2.6 

Sardonyx 12 2.6 

Amethyst (occidental) 11 2.7 

Crystal 11 2.6 

Cornelian 11 2.7 

Jasper (green) 11 2.7 

" (reddish yeUow) 9 2.6 

Schoerl 10 3.6 

Tourmaline 10 3.0 

Quartz 10 2.7 

Opal 10 2.6 

Chrysolite 10 3.7 

Zeolite 8 2.1 

Fluor.. 7 3.5 

Calcareous spar 6 2.7 

Gypsum 5 2.3 

Chalk 3 2.7 

Glass 2.3 : 3.62 

" (plate) 2.5:2.6 

" (crystal or flint). 3.0:3.616 

6137. "Weight of Hemp and "Wire Rope. 



Hemp. | 


IBON WrRE. 


Steel WiBE. | 




Lbs. 




Lbs. 




Lbs. 


Cir- 
cumfer- 


Weight 
per 


Cir- 
cTimfer- 


Weight 
per 


Cir- 
cumfer- 


Weight 
per 


ence. 


Fathom 


ence. 


Fathom. 


ence. 


Fathom 


2f 


2 




1 










— 


u 


Ik 


1 


1 


3f 


4 


If 


2 


— 


— 




— 


If 


2k 


Ik 


n 


4i 


o 


1^ 


3 








— - 


2 


3i 


u 


2 


bh 


7 


2* 


4 


If 


2i 


— 


— , 


2i 


4i 






6 


9 


2f 


5 


n 


3 


— 


— 


2k 


5k 




— 


61 


10 


2f 


6 


2 


31 




— 


2f 


6i 


2* 


4 


7 


12 


2^ 


7 


2i 


4i 


— 


— 


3 


7i 




— 


7i 


14 


3^ 


8 


2f 


5 


— 


— 


3i 


8^ 




— 


8 


16 


3t 


9 


2h 


5^ 


— 


— 


H 


10 


21- 


6 


8k 


18 


H 


11 


2f 


6i 




— 


3f 


12 






9k 


22 


3^ 


13 


3i 


8 


10 


26 


4 


14 




— 


— 


— 


4i 


15 


31 


9 


11 


30 


4| 


16 







— 


— 


^ 


18 


3|r 


10 


12 


34 


41 


20 


3f 


12 



TABLES OF WEiaHTS, MEASURES, ETC, 



535 



6138. Miscellaneons Statistics. 



TIMBER. 



SpeciflcGravity 



Weight in lbs. 

per 

Cubic Foot. 



Tenacity in lbs. 

per 

Square Inch. 



Crushing Force 

in lbs. per 

Square Inch 



Ash 

Beech 

Birch 

Cedar 

Deal, Christiana 

Elm 

Hornbeam 

Larch 

Memel 

Mahogany, Spanish. 

Oak, English 

Oak, Canadian 

Pine, red 

Pine, yellow 

Teak, Moulmein - . . 
Yew 



MISCELLANEOUS. 



Asphaltum . . . 
Gutta-percha 
India-rubber . 
Ivory 



FLUIDS. 



Alcohol 

Ether 

Oil 

Water, fresh. 
"Water, sea.. 



.8 

.69 

.71 

.48 

.7 

.6 

.75 

.55 

.6 

.8 

.93 

.87 

.65 

.45 

.65 



.9 

.98 

.94 

1.8 

.8 

.74 

.90 

1.000 

1.028 



50 
43 
44 
30 
44 
37 
47 
34 
37 
50 
58 
54 
41 
28 
41 
50 

56 

61 

59 

112 



50 

46 

56 

62.4 

64.1 



17.200 
11.000 
15.000 
11.000 
12.000 
13.000 
20.000 
9.000 

16.000 
17.000 
10.000 
12.000 
11.000 
15.000 
8.000 



Boiling Point. 

173° 

100 



9.000 
9.000 
5.500 
5.600 
6.000 
10.000 
7.000 
5.500 

8.000 
10.000 
6.000 
5.800 
5.100 
12.000 



212 
213 



Expansion.* 

.11 

.07 
.08 
.047 



GASES. 



Water 
1. 



Comparative Weight 
(Air being 1.) 



Weight of 
Cubic Foot 
in Grains. 



Air 

Carbonic acid 

Carburetted hydrogen. 

Hydrogen 

Oxygen 



.0012 

.0018 

.0005 

.00008 

.00125 



1.000 

1.524 

.420 

.069 

1.103 



527 
800 
220 
43 
627 



* Expansion of fluids is calculated between 32 <> and 212® Fahrenheit. 



6139. Weight of Copper and Lead. 


Weight of a Square Foot of Copper and Lead 


in pounds, from ^ to k inch in thickness. 


Thickness. 


Copper. 


Lead. 


li-V 


1.45 


1.85 


iV 


2.90 


3.70 


4 


4.35 


5.54 


i 


5.80 


7.39 


3^ 


7.26 


9.24 


A 


8.71 


11.08 


h 


10.16 


12.93 


i 


11.61 


14.77 




13.07 


16.62 


ft 


14.52 


18.47 


15.97 


20.31 


3. 


17.41 


22.16 


it 


18.87 


24.00 


t 


20.32 


25.85 


21.77 


27.70 


k 


23.22 


29.55 


6140. Weight of Cast-iron Plates. 


Weight of Cast-L'on Plates, 12 inches square. 


Hiickness. Weight. 


Thickness. Weight. 


i inch.. 4 lbs. 13f oz. 


finch -24 lbs. 2foz. 


i " ..9 " lOf " 


1 '' .29 " " 


1 '' .-14 '' 8 '' 


1 '' .33 " 13f " 


i " .-19 " 


5| - 


1 " 


.38 " lOf " 1 



6141. Weight of Sheet Iron. 

Weight of a Square Foot of Sheet Iron in 
pounds avoirdupois, the thickness "being the 
number on the wire gauge. No 1 is ^ of 
an inch; No. 4, i; No. 11, i, ^c. 

No. on _ . .. 

Wire Gauge. 
1 



pounds 
Avoir. 

12.5 
.12. 
,11. 
.10. 



2 

3 

4 

5 9. 

6 8. 

7 7.5 

8 7. 

9 6. 

10 5.68 

11 5. 

6142. Weight of Boiler Iron. 

Weight of a Square Foot of Boiler Iron, 

from i to 1 inch thick, in pounds. 



No. on 
Wire Gauge. 

12 

13 

14 

15 

16 

17 

18 

19 

20 

21 

22 



Pounds 
Ayoir. 

.4.62 
.4.31 
.4. 

.3.95 

.3. 

.2.5 

.9.18 

.1.93 

.1.62 

-1.5 

-1.37 



Thickness. Weight. 

i inch 5 pounds. 



h 


" ...7.5 


i 


" ..-.10 


h 


' --12.5 


i 


' ....15 


1^ 


' ..17.5 


i 


' ....20 


h 


' -.22.5 



Thickness. 
f inch. . 



Weight 
.25 pounds. 



.27.5 
...-30 
..32.5 
....35 
..37.5 
....40 



536 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 
6143. Properties of Metals. 



Weight of »i 
Cubic Inch 



Aluminnm 

Antimony, cast. 

Bismuth 

Brass, cast 

' wire 

Copper, cast 

" sheet... 

" wire 

Gold 

G-un-metal 

Iron, wrought bar 

'' Swedish... 

" wire 

" cast 

Lead, cast 

" sheet 

Mercury 

Silver 

Steel 

" puddled... 

Tin 

Zinc 



.092 
.242 
.35 
.3 

.32 



.7 
.3 

.28 



.26 
.41 



Specific 
Gravity. 



2.56 
6.7 

9.82 

8.4 

8.5 

8.89 

8.95 

9. 

19.25 

8.4 

7.7 

7.6 

7.18 
11.35 



Weight of a 

Cubic Foot 

in Lbs. 



Tenacity 
in Lbs. per 
Square Inch. 



.49 


13.56 


.38 


10.47 


.282 


7.8 




7.78 


.263 


7.29 


.253 


7. 



160 
418 
605 
525 
531 
555 
559 
562 
1203 
525 
481 
475 

448 
709 

847 
654 
487 
485 
455 
437 



Crushing 
Force in Lbs. 
per sq.lncli. 



1,066 

3,250 

17,978 

49,000 

19,072 

33,000 

61,000 

20,400 

36,000 

60,000 

70,000 

85,000 

19,000 

1,824 

3,328 

41,000 

120,000 

80,000 

5,000 

8,000 



10,300 
11,700 

38,000 



92,000 27860 
7,000 612° 



—39° 

1873° 
2500O 



Melting 
Point. 
Fahr. 



1800° 
810O 

497° 
1869° 

1996° 



2016° 



Expansion 
between 
32" k 212" 



15,000 



442° 

773° 



.0011 
.0014 
.002 

.0017 



.0016 
.0012 



.0011 
.0028 

.016 

.0019 

.0011 

.0021 
.0029 



Con- 
ducting 
power. 



Specific 
Heat. 



1000 

347 

180 
973 



304 
363 



.0507 

.0288 



.0949 

.0298 
.1100 

.0293 

.0330 
.0557 



0514 
.0927 



* Approximate ; no well-authenticated experiments on Aluminum. 



6144. Weight of Round and Square 
Shafts of Wrought Iron, 1 Foot Long. 



Size jn 
Inches. 



Bound. Square 



i 
i 

f 

f 

I 
1 

H 
li 

1| 

li 
If 
H 
2 

2i 
2i 
2f 
2^ 
2f 
2f 

3 

3i 
3i 
3f 
4 

4i 
4i 



Weight in Lbs. 



.042 


.053 


.166 


.211 


.372 


.474 


.662 


.843 


1.03 


1.32 


1.49 


1.90 


2.03 


2.58 


2.65 


3.37 


3.35 


4.27 


4.14 


5.27 


5.00 


6.37 


5 97 


7.58 


7.00 


8.90 


8.11 


10.3 


9.31 


11.8 


10.6 


13.5 


11.9 


15.2 


13.4 


17.1 


14.9 


19.0 


16.5 


21.1 


18.2 


23.2 


20.0 


25.5 


21.9 


27.9 


23.8 


30.3 


28.0 


35.6 


32.4 


41.3 


37.2 


47.4 


42.4 


54.0 


47.8 


60.9 


53.6 


68.2 



Size in 
Inches. 



4f 

5 

Sir 

5i 

5f 

6 

6i 

6i 

6f 

7 

7f 
8 

8i 
8i 
8f 
9 

9i 
9^ 
9f 
10 

m 
11 

Hi 

12 

12^ 
13 
13i 
14 



Weight in Lbs. 



Round. Square, 



59.7 
66.2 
72.9 
80.1 
87.5 
95.3 

103 

112 

121 

130 

139 

149 

159 

169 

180 

191 

203 

214 

227 

239 

252 

265 

292 

320 

350 

381 

414 

447 

483 

519 



76.0 
84.3 
92.9 

102 

111 

121 

132 

142 

154 

165 

177 

190 

203 

216 

229 

244 

258 

273 

288 

304 

320 

337 

372 

408 

448 

486 

527 

570 

614 

661 



and by 3.36 ; the product will be the weight 
in pounds avoirdupois, nearly. 

Square, Angled, T, Convex, or any figure 
of Beam, Iron. — Ascertain the area of the end 
of each figure of bar, in inches, then multiply 
the area by the length in feet, and that pro- 
duct by 10, and divide by three ; the remain 
der will be the weight in pounds, nearly. 

Square Cast Steel. — Multiply the area of 
the end of the bar in inches, by the length in 
feet, and that product by 3,4; the product 
will be the weight in pounds, nearly. 

Bound Cast Steel. — Multiply the square of 
the diameter in inches, by the length in feet, 
and that product by 2.67 ; the product will 
give the weight in pounds avoirdupois, nearly. 

6146. Number of Nails per Pound. 
The following table shows the length of the 
various sizes of nails and the number of each 
in a pound : 



6145. "Weights of "Wrought-Iron and 
Steel. 

Bound Iron. — Multiply the square of the 
diameter in inches, by the length in feet, and 
by 2.63, and the product will be the weight 
in pounds avoirdupois, nearly. 

Square Iron. — Multiply the area of the 
end of the bar in inches, by the length in feet, 



Size. 



3-penny, 

4 '' 

5 " 

6 " 

7 " 

8 " 
10 '' 
12 '' 
20 " 

Spikes 



Length. 



I inch long, 

li " 

II " 
2 

2ir " 

2h " 

21 '' 

3 

3^ " 

4 

H " 

5 



Number. 



557 per pound, 

353 

232 " 

167 " 

141 " 

101 

98 

54 '' 

34 " 

16 " 

12 " 

10 " 
7 

5 " 



The term ''penny," designating the size of 
nails, appears to mean ''pound." Ten-penny 
nails weighing 10 pounds per thousand, four- 
penny nails 4 pounds per thousand, &e. 
(Webster.) This is probably the weight the 
nails were originally made ; according to the 
foregoing table they have since learned econ- 
omy in the material. 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



537 



6147. Calendar for Ascertaining on what Day of the "Week any Given Day 
will Fall within the Present Century. 



YEAES 1801 TO 1900. 



1801 1807 



1802 



1803 



1813 



1814 



1805 1811 



1806 I 1817 



1809 1815 



1810 1821 



1818 



1819 



1825 



1822 



1823 



1827 



1829 



1831 



1834 



1839 



1845 



1846 



1853 



1850 



1851 



1855 



1857 



1861 



1862 



1863 



1867 



1873 
1871 



1877 



1874 



1875 



1879 



1882 



1885 



1890 



1893 



1891 



1897 



1895 



1899 



To ascertain any day of the week in any 
year of the present century, first look in 
the table of years for the year required, 
and under the months are figures which 
refer to the corresponding figures at the 
head of the columns of days below. 

For Example: To find what day of the 
week January 1 will be in the year 1873, 
look in the table of years for 1873, and in 
a parallel line under January is figure 3, 
which directs to column 3, in which it will 
be seen that January 1 will fall on "Wed- 
nesday. 



LEAP- YEAES. 



1804 1832 



1808 1836 



1812 1840 



1820 



1824 



1828 



1848 



1852 



1856 



1860 



1864 



1868 



1884 



1892 



1 4 

6 2 

4 7 



Men... 


.. 1 


Tues.. 


... 2 


Wed... 


.. 3 


Thur. 


.. 4 


Fri.. . 


.. 5 


Sat.... 


.. 6 


Sun... 


... 7 


Mon... 


... 8 


Tues. . . 


.. 9 


Wed... 


...10 


Thur.. 


...11 


Fri.... 


. ,12 


Sat 


...13 


Sun... 


. 14 


Mon.. 


..15 


Tues.. 


..16 


Wed... 


..17 


Thur. 


..18 


Fri.... 


..19 


Sat. . . . 


...20 


Sun... 


...21 


Mon.. 


..22 


Tues. . 


...23 


Wed... 


..24 


Thur.. 


..25 


Fri.... 


..26 


Sat.... 


..27 


Sun... 


...28 


Mon... 


..29 


Tues . . 


..30 


Wed... 


..31 



S 




Tues... 


.. 1 


Wed... 


.. 2 


Thur.. 


.. 3 


Fri 


.. 4 


Sat.. .. 


.. 5 


Sun 


.. 6 


Mon... 


.. 7 


Tues... 


.. 8 


Wed... 


.. 9 


Thur.. 


..10 


Fri.... 


..11 


Sat.... 


..12 


Sun 


..13 


Mon... 


.14 


Tues . . . 


..15 


Wed... 


.16 


Thur . . 


..17 


Fri... 


,.18 


Sat.... 


. 19 


Sun 


.20 


Mon... 


•n 


Tues... 


,.22 


Wed... 


.23 


Thur.. 


..24 


Fri.... 


..25 


Sat.... 


.26 


Sun 


..27 


Mon... 


.28 


Tues... 


..29 


Wed... 


.30 


Thur . . 


.31 



Wed... 


.. 1 


Thur. 


.. 2 


Fri.... 


.. 3 


Sat.... 


.. 4 


Sun . . . 


... 5 


Mon... 


.. 6 


Tues.. 


.. 7 


Wed... 


.. 8 


Thur. 


.. 9 


Fri.... 


..10 


Sat. . . 


..11 


Sun... 


...12 


Mon... 


..13 


Tues.. 


..14 


Wed. . . 


..15 


Thur.. 


..16 


Fri.... 


..17 


Sat.... 


..18 


Sun.... 


..19 


Mon... 


..20 


Tues.. 


..21 


Wed... 


..22 


Thur.. 


..23 


Fri.... 


..24 


Bat.... 


. 25 


.Sun... 


...26 


Mon.. 


..27 


Tues.. 


..28 



Wed. ...29 
Thui ,...30 
Fri 31 



4 




Thur... 


.. 1 


Fri.... 


.. 2 


Sat 


.. 3 


Sun .... 


.. 4 


Mon . . . 


.. 5 


Tues. . . 


.. 6 


Wed... 


. 7 


Thur .. 


.. 8 


Fri 


.. 9 


Sat.. .. 


..10 


Sun. . . . 


..11 


Mon... 


..12 


Tues... 


..13 


Wed... 


.14 


Thur... 


..15 


Fri.... 


..16 


Sat 


.17 


Sun 


..18 


Mon... 


..19 


Tues... 


..20 


Wed... 


.21 


Thur.. 


..22 


Fri 


.23 


Sat 


..24 


Sun 


..25 


Mon... 


.26 


Tues... 


..27 


Wed... 


.28 


Thur.. 


..29 


Fri 


..30 


Sat.... 


..31 



Fri 

Sat 

Sun 

Mon 

Tues.... 
Wed.... 
Thur . . , 



Fri 8 

Sat 9 

Sun 10 

Mon 11 

Tues 12 

Wed 13 

Thur.... 14 

Fri 15 

Sat 16 

Sun 17 

Mon 18 

Tues 19 

Wed 20 

Thur.... 21 

Fri 22 

Sat 23 

Sun 24 

Mon 25 

Tues 26 

Wed 27 

Thur 28 



Fri. 
Sat. 
Sun. 



6 




Sat.. .. 


.. 1 


Sun.... 


.. 2 


Mon... 


.. 3 


Tues. . . 


.. 4 


Wed. . . 


.. 5 


Thur.. 


.. 6 


Fri 


.. 7 


Sat.. .. 


.. 8 


Sun 


.. 9 


Mon . . . 


..10 


Tues. . . 


..11 


Wed. .. 


..12 


Thur.. 


..13 


Fri. . . . 


..14 


Sat. . . . 


..15 


Sun 


..16 


Mon... 


..17 


Tues... 


..18 


Wed... 


.19 


Thur... 


.20 


Fri.... 


..21 


Sat.... 


..22 


Sun 


..23 


Mon... 


..24 


Tues... 


..25 


Wed... 


.26 


Thur.. 


..27 


Fri.... 


..28 


Sat.... 


..29 




..30 


Mon. . . 


..31 



Sun... 


... 1 


Mon.. 


... 2 


Tues.. 


... 3 


Wed.. 


.. 4 


Thur. 


.. 5 


Fri.. . 


... 6 


Sat.... 


.. 7 


Sun... 


.. 8 


Mon.. 


.. 9 


Tues.. 


...10 


Wed.. 


..11 


Thur. 


..12 


Fri.... 


..13 


Sat.... 


..14 


Sun... 


...15 


Mon.. 


..16 


Tues.. 


...17 


Wed.. 


..18 


Thur.. 


..19 


Fri.... 


..20 


Sat.... 


..21 


Sun... 


...22 


Mon.. 


..23 


Tues.. 


..24 


Wed.. 


..25 


Thur. 


..26 


Fri.... 


..27 


Sat.... 


..28 


Sun... 


...29 


Mon.. 


..30 


Tues, . 


...31 



6148. Proportions of a Beautiful 
Body. The height should be exactly equal 
to the distance between the tips of the middle 
fingers of either hand when the aiins are fully 
extended. Ten times the length of the hand, 
or seven and a half times the length of the 
xoot, or five times the diameter of the chest 
from v^ne armpit to the other, should also each 
give the height of the whole bodv. The dis- 
tance from the junction of the tkighs to the 



ground should be the same as from that point 
to the crown of the head. The knee should 
be precisely midway between the same point 
and the bottom of the heel. The distance 
from the elbow to the tip of the middle finger 
should be the same as from the elbow to the 
middle line of the breast. From the top of 
the head to the level of the chin should be 
the same as from the level of the chin to that 
of the armpits, and from the heel to the toe. 



538 TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 

6149. Loss Sustained by Different Substances in Drying. 



Grains. 




Dried at 


Lose Grains. 


100 


Gallic Acid 


212° 


9.5 


100 


Sulphate of Quinine 


212° 


14.4 


100 


Arseniate of Soda 


300O 


40.38 


100 


Alum 


400O 


47. 


100 


Carbonate of Soda 


Dull Kedness 


63. 


100 


Phosphate of Soda 


IC 


63. 


100 


Sulphate of Soda 


l( 


56. 


100 


Carbonate of Potassa 


iC 


16. 


Grains. 




Dried at 


Leave Grains. 


29 


Oxide of Silver 


Kedness 


27 Metallic Silver 


10 


Oxalate of Cserium 


u 


4.8 Oxide with Peroxide 


100 


Oxalate of Iron 


IC 


27 Peroxide of Iron 


50 


Tartrate of Iron 


u 


15 Sesquioxide of Iron 


50 


Carbonate of Magnesia 


u 


22 Magnesia 



6150. Table of Symbols and Equiva- 
lents of Metallic Elements. The specific 
gravity of the following are given at water 
standard. The equivalents are multiples of 
hydrogen, which is adopted as the basis, or 1. 



Aluminum 

Antimony (Stibium).. 

Arsenic 

Barium 

Bismuth 

Boron 

Cadmium 

Calcium 

Cerium 

Chromium.. 

Cobalt 

Columbium (Tantalium) 

Caesium 

Copper (Cuprum) 

Didymium 

Erbium 

Glucinium 

Gold ( Aurum) 

Ilmenitim 

Indium 

Iridium 

Iron (Ferrum) 

Lantanium 

Lead (Plumbum) 

Lithium 

Magnesium 

Manganese 

Mercury (Hydrargyrum) 

Molybdenum 

Nickel 

Niobium 

Norium 

Osmium 

Palladium 

Pelofpium 

Platinum 

Potassium (Kalium) 

Khodium 

Rubidium 

Ruthenium 

Silicon 

Silver ( Argentum) 

Sodium (Natrium) 

Strontium 

Tellurium 

Terbium 

Thallium 

Thorium 

Tin (Stannum) 

TitaniTim 

Tungsten (Wolfram) 

Uranium 

Vanadium 

Yttrium 

Zinc 

Zirconium 



Symbol 



U. S. Di8. Ure 



Al 

Sb 

As 

Ba 

Bi 

B 

Cd 

Ca 

Ce 

Cr 

Co 

Ta 

Cae 

Cu 

D 

E 

G 

Au 

II 

In 

Ir 

Fe 

La 

Pb 

L 

Mg 

Mn 

Hg 

M 

Ni 

Nb 

No 

OS 

Pd 

Pe 

Pt 

K 

Ro 

Rb 

Ru 

Si 

Ag 

Na 

Sr 

Te 

Tb 

Tl 

Th 

Sn 

Ti 

W 

U 

V 

Y 

Zn 

Zr 



Equivalent. 



13.70 
122.00 
75.00 
68.70 
210.00 
10.90 
55.80 
20.00 
46.00 
26.30 
29.50 
185.00 

31.70 

47.50 

56.30 

7.00 

199.00 
60.20 
74.00 
98.80 
28.00 
44.30 

103.60 

7.00 

12.00 

27.70 

200.00 
48.00 
29.50 
94.00 

99.70 
53.30 

98.90 
39.20 
52.20 
85.40 
52.20 
21.30 
108.00 
23.30 
43.80 
64.00 

204.00 
59.60 
59.00 
25.00 
92.00 
60.00 
51.20 
30.85 
32.30 



Sp. Or 



13.67 

129.00 
75.00 
68.50 

213.00 
11.00 
56.00 
20.00 
46.00 
26.27 
29.50 

123.00 
32.00 
48.00 

6.97 



98.56 
28.00 

104.00 

7.00 

12.00 

26.00 

200.00 
48.00 
29.50 



99.41 
53.24 

99.00 
39.00 
62.16 
85.00 
52.11 
21.00 
108.00 
23.00 
44.00 
64.08 



59.50 
59.00 
24.12 
92.00 
60.00 
68.46 

32.52 
33.58 



2.56 
6 70 
5.67 
4.70 
9.80 
2.68 
8.63 
1.58 

5.90 
8.53 



8.72 



18.63 

7.84 

11.30 

.59 

1.75 

8.00 

13.50 
8.60 
8.63 



10.00 
11.50 

21.50 

.86 

11.20 

8.60 

10.43 

.97 

2.54 

6.30 



7.29 
5.28 
17.20 
10.15 



6.91 



6151. Table of Sjrmbols and Equiva- 
lents of Non-MetaUic Elements. The 

specific gravity of these are given in their 
gaseous form, air being the standard or 1.000. 
The equivalents are multiples of hydrogen 
which is adopted as the basis or 1. 





Symbol. 


Equivalent. 


Specific 
Gravity. 




U. S. Dis. 


Ure. 


Bromine 


Br 


78.4 


80.0 


5.4110 


Carbon 


C 


6.0 


6.0 


.8290 


Chlorine 


CI 


35.5 


35.5 


2.4530 


Fluorine 


Fl 


18.7 


19.0 


1.3270 


Hydrogen 
Iodine 


H 
I 


1.0 
126.3 


1.0 
127.0 


.0692 

8.7827 


Nitrogen 
Oxygen 
Phosphorus 
Selenium 



P 

Se 


14.0 

8.0 
32.0 
40.0 


14.0 

8.0 
32.0 
40.0 


.9713 
1.1056 
4.2840 
7.6960 


Sulphur. 


S 


16.0 


16.0 


2.2140 



6152. To Reduce Parti by Volume 
or Measure to Parts by Weight. Multi- 
ply the parts by volume or measure by the 
specific gravity of the different substances ; 
the result will be parts by weight. 

6153. To Find the Length of the Day 
or Night. To find the length of any day, 
double the time of sunset. Double the hour 
of sunrise will be the length of the night. 

6154. To Reduce a Liquid to a Given 
Density. It has been already stated in No. 
52 that the actual weight of any substance 
may be found by weighing an exactly equal 
bult of water, and multiplying the weight 
found by the specific gravity of the substance; 
the product is the actual weight. To sim- 
plify this, suppose that a liquid has a specific 
gravity of 1.325 ; also that a certain bulk of 
water (say any 1 measure) weighs 100 grains; 
then a similar bulk (1 measure) of the sub- 
stance would weigh 100x1.325 = 132.5 grains, 
j^ow, supposing we wish to reduce the weight 
of this liquid, so that 1 measure of it shall 
weigh only 115.5 grains (that is, shall have a 
specific gravity of 1.155), how much water, 
whose specific gravity is 1.000, must be added 
to it to produce this result ? 

From the nature of the proposition, it fol- 
lows that the bulk of the substance (1) mul- 
tiplied by its specific gravity (1.325), added 
to the bulk of added (unknown) water multi- 
plied by its specific gravity (1.000), must be 
equal to the aggregate buli of the substance 



TABLES OF WEIGHTS, MEASURES, ETC. 



539 



and of the water combined, multiplied by its 
required specific gravity (1.155). 

Putting the above words into shape, and 
assuming x to be the required bulk or quantitj'' 
of water 

(1X1.325) + (xXl.OOO) = (l-{-x)Xl.l55 
or 1.325 -f l.OOOx --= 1.155-f 1.155x 
by subtracting 1.155 and 1.000 x from each 
side we have 

.170 =^ .155a7 
in other words the required 

bulk of water, a; = :iH = 1.097 

If, as supposed above, the measure assumed 
was such that it weighed 100 grains of water, 
we should have to add 109^^^ grains of water 
to 1 measure of the substance to produce a 
mixture of specific gravity 1.155. 

6155. Gay Lussac's Ligiit Areometer 
Reduced to Specific Gravity. This in- 
strument ranges from 0^ to bO^, 0° corre- 
sponding with water at 59° Fahr. 



Degree. 


Sp. Gr. 


Diff. 


Degree. 


Sp. Gr. 


Diff. 


0° 


1.0000 


.0095 


30° 


.7692 


.0057 


5 


.9524 


.0087 


35 


.7407 


.0053 


10 


.9090 


.0079 


40 


.7143 


.0049 


15 


.8696 


.0073 


45 


.6897 


.0044 


20 


.8333 


.0067 


50 


.6667 




25 


.8000 


.0062 









6157. Gay Lussac's Alcoholmeter 
Reduced to Specific Gravityo This instru- 
ment exhibits the percentage of alcohol by 
volume in different alcoholic mixtures at 59^ 
Fahr. 









Percent. 




' 


of Alcohol 


Sp. Grav. 


Diff. 


of Alcohol 


Sp. Grav. 


Diff. 


by Vol lime. 






byVolume. 






100 


.7947 


.0044 


60 


.9141 


.0021 


95 


.8168 


.0036 


55 


.9248 


.0020 


90 


.8346 


.0031 


50 


.9348 


.0018 


85 


.8502 


•0028 


45 


.9440 


.0016 


80 


.8645 


.0031 


40 


.9523 


.0014 


75 


.8799 


.0022 


35 


.9595 


.0002 


70 


.8907 


.0024 


10 


.9656 


.0034 


65 


.9027 


.0023 





1.0000 





The specific gravity of the intermediate 
degrees is found as explained in Xo. 6155, only 
that the difference must be added instead of 
subtracted. 

6158. Beck's Heavy Areometer Re- 
duced to Specific Gravity. This ranges 
from 0° to 76^, 0^ corresponding with water 
at 54^° Fahr. 



This table gives the specific gravity corre- 
sponding to every 5 degrees of the scale. To 
find the specific gravity of intermediate 
degrees, the average difference between each 
degree is given in the third column, each 
given difference referring to the four degrees 
following the degree opposite which the dif- 
ference is placed. Thus : To find the specific 
gravity corresponding with 33 degrees of the 
scale, look in the table for the specific gravity 
of the nearest lower degree given, in this 
instance 30^; and we find .7692; 33° is 3° 
more than 30^, hence we must deduct 3 
times the given difference (.0057), or .0171 ; 
this last deducted from .7692 = .7521, which 
is the approximate specific gravity corre- 
sponding to 33° of the scale. 

The intermediate degrees of other areome- 
ters may be determined in a similar manner. 

The corresponding degrees of dififerent areo- 
meters may also be found by a comparison 
with their respective specific gravities; allow- 
ance being made for difference of temperature. 

Information showing the practical use of 
some of the areometers will be found in Xos. 
58 to 68. 

6156. Gay Lussac's Heavy Areometer 
Reduced to Specific Gravity. This areo- 
meter ranges from O'^ to 50", O'^ representing 
water at 59° Fahr. 



Degree. 


Sp. Gr. 


Diff. 


Degree. 


Sp. Gr. 


Diff. j 


0° 


1.0000 


.0105 


30° 


1.4286 


.0220 


5 


1.0526 


.0117 


35 


1.5385 


.0256 


10 


1.1111 


.0131 


40 


1.6667 


.0303 


15 


1.1765 


.0147 


45 


1.8182 


.0363 


20 


1.2500 


.0167 


50 


2.0000 




25 


1.3333 


.0191 









Degree. 


Sp. Gr. 


Diff. 


Degree. 


Sp. Gr. 


Diff. 


0° 


1.0000 


.0061 


45° 


1.3600 


.0113 


5 


1.0303 


.0064 


50 


1.4167 


.0123 


10 


1.0625 


.0068 1 


55 


1.4782 


.0134 


15 


1.0968 


.0073 


60 


1.5454 


.0147 


20 


1.1333 


.0078 


G5 


1.6190 


.0162 


25 


1.1724 


.0084 


70 


1.7000 


.0179 


30 


1.2143 


.0090 


75 


1.7895 




35 


1.2592 


.0097 


76 


1.8085 




40 


1.3077 


.0105 









The specific gravity of the intermediate 
degrees is obtained as shown in Xo. 6155, the 
differences being added instead of subtracted. 

6159. Beck's Light Areometer Re- 
duced to Specific Gravity. The scale on 
this areometer marks from 0° to 70°, 0° rep- 
resenting water at 54^° Fahr. 



Deg. 


Sp. Gr. 


Diff. 


Deg. 


Sp. Gr. 


Diff. 


0° 


1.0000 


.0057 


40° 


.8095 


.0038 


5 


.9714 


.0054 


45 


.7907 


.0036 


10 


.9444 


.0051 


50 


.7727 


.0034 


15 


.9189 


.0048 


55 


.7555 


.0033 


20 


.8947 


.0046 


60 


.7391 


.0031 


25 


.8718 


.0043 


65 


.7234 


.0030 


30 


.8500 


.0041 


70 


.7083 




35 


.8293 


.0040 









The equivalents of the intermediate degrees 
may be found bv the method given in Xo. 
6155. 

6160. Dutch Light Areometer Re- 
duced to Specific Gravity. This areometer 
ranges from 0° to 60^^, 0° denoting water. 



i Deg. Sp. Gr. Diff. Deg. Sp. Gr. Diff. 



The specific gravity of the intermediate 
degrees is found in the same manner as in Xo. 
6155, only that the differences must be added 
instead of subtracted. 



0° 

5 
10 
15 
20 
25 
30 



1.0000 
.9664 
.9351 
.9057 
.8780 
.8521 
.8276 



.0067 
.0063 
.0059 
.0055 
.0052 
.0049 
.0046 



35° 

40 

45 

50 

55 

60 



.8045 
.7826 
.7619 
.7423 
.7236 
.7059 



.0014 
.0041 
.0039 
.0037 
.0035 



The specific gravity of the intermediate de- 
grees may be found in the same manner as 
directed in Xo. 6155. 



5<t0 



TABLES OF WEIGtRTS, MEASURES, ETC, 



6161. The Heavy Areometer of Brix. 

This instrument is graduated from 0° to 200*^; 
(P denoting water at 60° Fahr. 



1 Deg. 


Sp. Gr. 


Diff. 1 


Deg. 


Sp. Gr. 


Diflf. 


QP 


1.0000 


.0025 


1050 


1.3559 


.0047 


5 


1.0127 


.0026 


110 


1.3793 


.0048 


10 


1.0256 


.0027 


115 


1.4035 


.0050 


15 


1.0390 


.0027 


120 


1.4286 


.0052 


20 


1.0526 


.0028 


125 


1.4545 


.0054 


25 


1.0667 


-0029 


130 


1.4815 


.0056 


30 


1.0811 


.0029 


135 


1.5094 


.0058 


35 


1.0058 


.0030 


140 


1.5385 


.0060 


40 


1.1111 


.0031 


145 


1.5686 


.0063 


45 


1.1268 


.0032 


150 


1.6000 


.0065 


50 


1.1429 


.0033 


155 


1.6326 


.0068 


55 


1.1594 


.0034 


160 


1.6667 


.0071 


60 


1.1765 


.0035 


165 


1.7021 


.0074 


65 


1.1940 


.0036 


170 


1.7391 


.0077 


70 


1.2121 


.0037 


175 


1.7777 


.0081 


75 


1.2308 


.0038 


180 


1.8182 


.0085 


80 


1.2500 


.0039 


185 


1.8605 


.0089 


85 


1.2698 


.0040 


190 


1.9047 


.0093 


90 


1.2900 


.0042 


195 


1.9512 


.0098 


95 


1.3115 


.0044 


200 


2.0000 




100 


1.3333 


.0045 









The specific gravity of the intermediate de- 
grees is obtained as in No. 6155, by adding 
the differences instead of subtracting them. 

6162. The Light Areometer of Brix. 
This areometer is graded from 0° to 200", 0° 
corresponding with water at 60° Fahr. 



Degree. 


Sp. Gr. 


Diff. 


Degree. 


Sp. Gr. 


Difif. 


0° 


1.0000 


.0025 


1050 


.7921 


.0016 


5 


.9876 


.0024 


110 


.7843 


.0015 


10 


.9756 


.0024 


115 


.7767 


.0015 


15 


.9638 


.0023 


120 


.7692 


.0015 


20 


.9524 


.0022 


125 


.7619 


.0014 


25 


.9412 


.0022 


130 


.7547 


.0014 


30 


.9302 


.0021 


135 


.7477 


.0014 


35 


.9195 


.0021 


140 


.7407 


.0014 


40 


.9091 


.0020 


145 


.7339 


.0013 


45 


.8989 


.0020 


150 


.7273 


.0013 


50 


.8889 


.0020 


155 


.7207 


.0013 


55 


.8791 


.0019 


160 


.7143 


.0013 


60 


.8696 


.0019 


165 


.7080 


.0012 


65 


.8602 


.0018 


170 


.7018 


.0012 


70 


.8511 


.0018 


175 


.6957 


.0012 


75 


.8421 


.0018 


180 


.6897 


.0012 


80 


.8333 


.0017 


185 


.6838 


.0012 


85 


.8247 


.0017 


190 


.6780 


.0011 


90 


.8163 


.0016 


195 


.6723 


.0011 


95 


.8081 


.0016 


200 


.6667 




100 


.8000 


.0016 









The specific gravity of the intermediate 
degrees is easily obtained by following the 
directions laid down in Xo. 6155, adding the 
difference instead of subtracting it. 

6164. Twaddel's Areometer Reduced 
to Specific Gravity. The range of this 
areometer or saccharometer is from 0° to 
200°, 0° corresponding with water. 



To obtain the specific gravity of the inter- 
mediate degrees see IsTo. 6155. 

6163. Dutch Heavy Areometer Re- 
duced to Specific Gravity. The range of 
this instrument is from 0° to 75°, 0° corre- 
sponding with water. 



Deg. 


Sp. Gr. 


Diff. 


Deg. 


Sp. Gr. 


Difif. 


00 


1.0000 


.0072 


400 


1.3846 


.0140 


5 


1.0359 


.0077 


45 


1.4545 


.0155 


10 


1.0746 


.0083 


50 


1.5319 


.0172 


15 


1.1163 


.0090 


55 


1.6180 


.0193 


20 


1.1613 


.0098 


60 


1.7143 


.0217 


25 


1.2101 


.0106 


65 


1.8228 


.0246 


30 


1.2631 


.0116 


70 


1.9459 


.0282 


35 


1.3211 


.0127 


75 


2.0869 





Degrees. 



0^ 

5 
10 
15 
20 
25 
30 
35 
40 
45 
50 
55 
60 
65 
70 
75 
80 
85 
90 
95 
100 



Sp. Grav. 

1.000 
1.025 
1.050 
1.075 
1.100 
1.125 
1.150 
1.175 
1.200 
1.225 
1.250 
1.275 
1.300 
1.325 
1.350 
1.375 
1.400 
1.425 
1.450 
1.475 
1.500 



Degrees. 



1050 

110 

115 

120 

125 

130 

135 

140 

145 

150 

155 

160 

165 

170 

175 

180 

185 

190 

195 

200 



Sp. Grav. 



1.525 
1.550 
1.575 
1.600 
1.625 
1.650 
1.675 
1.700 
1.725 
1.750 
1.775 
1.800 
1.825 
1.850 
1.875 
1.900 
1.925 
1.950 
1.975 
2.000 



In the above table the difference between 
the degrees is .005, throughout; the specific 
gravity of the intermediate degrees can be 
found by following the method given in 'So. 
6155, adding instead of deducting the differ- 
ence. {See No. 68.) 

6165. Baum6's Heavy Areometer. 
This instrument marks from 0° to 75°, 0^ 
being water at 63^° Fahr. 



Deg. 


Sp. Gr. 


Diff. 


Deg. 

40° 


Sp. Gr. 


Diff. 


0° 


1.0000 


.0071 


1.3746 


.0135 


5 


1.0353 


.0076 


45 


1.4421 


.0149 


10 


1.07.31 


.0081 


50 


1.5166 


.0165 


15 


1.1138 


.0088 


55 


1.5992 


.0184 


20 


1.1578 


.0095 


60 


1.6914 


.0207 


25 


1.2053 


.0103 


65 


1.7948 


.0234 


30 


1.2569 


.0112 


70 


1.9117 


.0266 


35 


1.3131 


.0123 


75 


2.0448 





The specific gravity of the intermediate de- 
grees can be obtained as directed in IsTo. 6155, 
adding the difference instead of subtracting. 
A ready method of calculating the specific 
gravity corresponding to the degrees of this 
areometer, sufficiently correct for common 
purposes, will be found in No. 66 ; the table 
given in l^To. 65 is made on that principle, 
and based on 1000 as the unit representing 
water, instead of 1. 

6166. Baum6's Light Areometer. 
This areometer ranges from 10° to 60°, 10*^ 
denoting water at 54 5° Fahr. 



Deg. 


Sp. Gr. 


Diff. 


Deg. 


Sp. Gr. 


Diff. 


10° 


1.0000 


.0066 


40° 


.8294 


.0046 


15 


.9669 


.0062 


45 


.8065 


.0043 


20 


.9358 


.0058 


50 


.7848 


.0041 


25 


.9067 


.0055 


55 


.7642 


.0039 


30 


.8794 


.0051 


60 


.7447 




35 


.8537 


.0049 









MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



54:1 



The specific gravity of the intermediate de- 
grees is found by following the directions 
given in ifo. 6155. A simple method for 
converting the degrees of this areometer into 
specific gravity, applicable in cases where 
great accuracy is not required, is given in 
Ko. 66. A table, similar to the above, will 
be found in Ko. 62, sufficiently accurate for 
reneral practical purposes. 



Miscellaneous Receipts. 
These consist mainly of such receipts 
as could not be properly included in any 
division of the work; embracing also a few 
additional general receipts, whose merits de- 
manded their insertion, obtained too late for 
classification under their proper headings. 

6168. To Prepare Skeleton Leaves. 
The object in view is to destroy what may be 
called the fleshy part of the leaf, as well as 
the skin, leaving only the ribs or veins. The 
most successful, and probably the simplest 
way to do this, is to soak the leaves in rain- 
water till they are decomposed. For this 
purpose, when the leaves are collected, they 
should be placed in an earthenware pan or a 
wooden tub, kept covered with rain-water, 
and allowed to stand in the sun. In about 2 
weeks time they should be examined, and if 
found pulpy and decaying, will be ready for 
skeletonizing, for which process some cards, a 
camel's-hair brush, as well as one rather 
stiif (a tooth-brush, for instance), will be 
required. When all is prepared, gently float 
a leaf onto a card, and with the soft brush 
carefully remove the skin. Have ready a 
basin of clean water, and when the skin of 
one side is completely removed, reverse the 
card in the water, and slip it under the leaf, 
so that the other side is uppermost. Brush 
this to remove the skin, when the fleshy part 
wih most likely come with it ; but if not, it 
will readily wash out in the water. If parti- 
cles of the green-colored matter still adhere 
to the skeleton, endeavor to remove them 
with the soft brush ; but if that is of no 
avail, the hard one must be used. Great care 
will be necessary to avoid breaking the skele- 
ton, and the hard brush should only be used 
in a perpendicular direction (a sort of gentle 
tapping), as any horizontal motion or brush- 
ing action will infallibly break the skeleton. 
Never attempt to touch the leaves or the 
skeleton in this state with the fingers, as when 
they are soft their own weight will often break 
them. Well- grown leaves should always be 
chosen, and be thoroughly examined for flaws 
before soaking. Leaves containing much 
tannin cannot be skeletonized by this process, 
but are generally placed in a box with a num- 
ber of caddis worms, which eat away the 
fleshy parts, when the skeletons can be 
bleached by the method given in the next 
receipt. Holly leaves must be placed in a 
separate vessel, on account of their spines, 
which would be apt to damage other leaves ; 
they make beautiful skeletons, and are suffi- 
cientlv strong to be moved with the fingers. 
[See Xo. 6170.) 

6169. To Bleach Skeleton Leaves. 
A. good way of bleaching skeleton leaves is 



to prepare a solution of chloride of lime, 
which must be allowed to settle, and the 
clear liquid poured into a basin, in which the 
skeletons may be put by floating them oil the 
card. It is as well to have half a dozen 
ready to bleach at once, as they require watch- 
ing, and if allowed to remain in the liquid too 
long will fall to pieces. From 2 to 4 hours 
will generally suffice to bleach the skeleton of 
all ordinary leaves, after which they should 
be washed in several changes of water, and 
finally left in clean water for ^ hour. After the 
leaf has been sufficiently washed it should be 
floated onto a card and dried as quickly as 
possible, care being taken to arrange the 
skeleton perfectly flat, and as near as possible 
to the natural shape. This can be done with 
the assistance of the soft brush. "When dry 
the skeleton should be perfectly white, and 
may be mounted on dark backgrounds, as 
black velvet or paper. (See Xo. 6171.) 

6170. duick Method of Preparing 
Skeleton Leaves. A solution of caustic 
soda is to be made by dissolving 3 ounces 
washing soda in 2 pints boiling water, and 
adding Ig ounces quicklime previously slack- 
ed ; boil for 10 minutes, decant the clear solu- 
tion, and bring it to the boil. During ebulli- 
tion add the leaves ; boil briskly for about an 
hour, occasionally adding hot water to supply 
the place of that lost by evaporation. Take 
out a leaf, put it into a vessel of water, and 
rub it between the fingers under the water. 
If the skin and pulpy matter separate easily, 
the rest of the leaves may be removed from 
the solution, and treated in the same way; 
but if not, then the boiUng must be continued 
for some time longer. (See Xo. 6168.) 

6171. To Bleach Skeleton Leaves. 
To bleach the skeleton leaves, mix about 1 
drachm chloride of lime with 1 pint water, 
adding sufficient acetic acid to liberate the 
chlorine. Steep the leaves in this until they 
are whitened (about 10 minutes), taking care 
not to let them stay in too long, as they are 
apt to become brittle. Put them into clean 
water, and float them out on pieces of paper. 
Lastly, remove them from the paper before 
they are quite dry, and place them in a book 
or botanical press. They look best when 
mounted on black velvet or paper. (See Xo. 
6169.) 

6172. To Stain Dried Grass. There 
are few prettier ornaments, and none more 
economical and lasting, than bouquets of 
dried grasses, mingled with the various un- 
changeable flowers. They have but one 
fault ; and that is, the want of other colors 
besides yellow and drab or brown. To vary 
their shade, artificially, these fiowers are 
sometimes dyed green. This, however, is in 
bad taste, and unnatural. The best effect is 
produced by blending rose and red tints, to- 
gether with a very little pale blue, with the 
grasses and flowers, as they dry naturally. 
The best means of dyeing dried leaves, flow- 
ers, and grasses, is to dip them into the spirit- 
uous liquid solution of the various compounds 
of analine. (See Xos. 2552, ^t.) Some of 
these have a beautiful rose shade ; others red, 
blue, orange, and purple. The depth of color 
can be regulated by diluting, if necessary, the 
original dyes, with spirit, down to the shade 
desired. "WTien taken out of the dye they 



54r2 



MISCELLANEOUS UECEIPTS. 



Bhoidd be exposed to the air to diy off the 
spirit. They then require arranging, or set- 
ting into form, as, when wet, the petals and 
fine filaments have a tendency to cling to- 
gether A pink saucer, as sold by most 
druggists, will supply enough rose dye for 
two ordinary bouquets. The pink saucer 
yields the best rose dye by washing it off 
with water and lemon juice. The analine 
dyes yield the best violet, mauve, and purple 
colors. 

6173. Artificial Coral. Melt together 
yellow resin, 4 parts ; vermilion, 1 part. This 
gives a very pretty effect to glass, twigs, 
raisin stalks, cinders, stones, &c., dipped into 
the mixture and dried. 

6174. To Copy Ferns. Dip them well 
in common porter, and then lay them flat 
between white sheets of paper, with slight 
pressure, and let them dry out. 

6175. To Preserve Natural Flowers. 
Dip the flowers in melted paraffine, withdraw- 
ing them quickly. The liquid should be only 
just hot enough to maintain its fluidity, and 
the flowers should be dipped one at a time, 
held by the stalks and moved about for an 
instant to get rid of air bubbles. Fresh-cut 
flowers, free from moisture, make excellent 
specimens in this way. 

6176. To Collect and Preserve Speci- 
mens of Plants. To form what is called the i 
hortus siccus, or herbarium, various methoas 
are employed, but the following is recoro- 
mended as the most simple. The articles re- 
quisite for the purpose consist of a dozen 
quires of smooth soft paper of a large size, 6 
boards of about an inch in thickness, and 4 
iron or lead weights, two of them about 30 
pounds, and the two others about half that 
weight, and a botanical box of tin, and of such 
dimensions as shall be most convenient for the 
collector. The plants to be preserved ought, 
if possible, to be gathered in dry weather ; 
but if the weather be wet they should be laid 
out for some time on a table till partially 
dried, and when the roots are taken up along 
with the stems, they must be washed and then 
exposed to the air for the same purpose. 

6177. To Preserve Plants. Lay over 
one of the boards two or three sheets of the 
paper described in the last receipt. On the 
uppermost sheet spread out the specimen to 
be preserved, unfolding its parts so as to give 
it as natural an appearance as possible, laying 
out the leaves and flowers with particular 
care. Over the specimen thus disposed of 
place several sheets of paper ; on the upper- 
most sheet spread out another specimen, and 
so proceed till all the plants intended to be 
preserved are laid down ; and having put over 
the whole some more sheets of paper, place a 
board over them with the weights upon it, 
which may be a number of clean bricks, if 
iron or lead weights cannot conveniently be 
procured. As some plants are delicate and 
flexible, and others comparatively thick and 
hard, the former class will require less weight 
to be placed over them, and the latter con- 
siderably more. 

6178. To Preserve the Color and 
Shape of Plants when Drying. To pre- 
serve the color of flowers when drying, the 
greatest care is required in changing the 
papers every second day, which papers ought 



first to be well dried at the ure. "With regard 
to keeping the shape of flowers, the utmost 
care and attention is necessary when arrang-j 
ing them on the paper ; this can be done byl 
having another piece of paper and gently lay-{ 
ing it on part of the flower ; the part of the 
flower so covered with the paper ought to 
have a small book placed on it. Then begin 
and lay out the other leaves of the flower, : 
and also press it, and so on, until each part| 
has had the gentle pressure necessary to keep 
it in position. Let them remain so for a short 
time, and then put some heavy weight on 
them ; look at them next day, and change the 
damp paper. Ferns may be kept for years 
quite fresh in color by this simple mode of 
drying. In 3 or 4 days the plants thus treated 
should be taken out, together with the paper 
in which they have been deposited, and laid 
in fresh paper with 3 or 4 sheets between 
every 2 plants, and the board aud weights laid 
upon them as before. This process must be 
continued till the plants are perfectly dried. 
Each specimen is then to be placed on a sheet 
of dry paper, along with a memorandum of 
the name of the plant, the place and time at 
which it was gathered, the character of the 
soil from which it was taken, and any other 
particulars tending to illustrate its character 
and history. 

6179. To Mount Small Insects for 
tl?e Jlicroscope. Mounting small insects 
^op the microscope, such as parasites and acari 
irom birds, beetles, (fee, may be performed by 
placing the live insect on the inside of a sheet 
of tolerable good note paper, folded, and when 
in the act of running, closing the paper and 
pressing it tightly in a book. By this means 
the legs and antennae may be nicely extended, 
all the expressed moisture absorbed by the 
paper, and the skin left apparently unbroken. 
It should be allowed to remain in the book 
about 2 days, when it may be carefully re- 
moved from the paper, put in a turpentine 
bath, and afterwards mounted in balsam in 
the usual way. {See No. 6180.) 

6180. To Mount Microscopic Ob- 
jects in Canada Balsam. Warm the glass 
slips, (fee, to a temperature just below the 
boiling heat of water. If there is any doubt 
of the balsam penetrating all the interstices 
and readily adhering to the specimens, it will 
be weU to pour a few drops of clear turpen- 
tine upon the specimens, which will greatly 
facihtate the taking of the balsam ; the lat- 
ter, however, must not be used until the tur- 
pentine has nearly evaporated. The moment 
when the balsam is to be added with the best 
effect can only be known by experience. 
Clear old Canada balsam is the best suited for 
these purposes. When used it must also be 
heated to a temperature just below boiling 
water, and then poured upon the object, pre- 
viously arranged upon a slip of glass. Tho 
top slip of glass, which is usually smaller and 
thinner than the under one, is now to be placed 
upon it ; one end of each slip being brought 
into contact first, and then the other al- 
lowed to fall upon it. By this means no air- 
bubbles wiU be enclosed. The exact quantity 
of balsam must be learned by practice. Of 
two faults, namely, too much or too little, the 
former is to be prefen-ed. Be careful not to 
press the glasses together too hard; otherwise, 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS, 



►^3 



OIL iJt wmoval of tlie pressure, the air will 
c'-itor between the glasses, and the preparation 
^ {Ibe spoilt. Haying thus mounted the ob- 
jJcctt ^ innst be slowly dried in a warm situa- 
ilon. This will take 1 or 2 days ; after which 
ttie Jide Is to be cleaned by scraping oflf the 
eurplns balsam with a strip of plate glass. 
Finally, wipe it clean, using first a linen rag 
moistened with turpentine,"and then a piece 
of dry clean leather. 

6181. Marvels of the Microscoi)e. A 
beautiful and easily produced exhibition of 
crystal formation may be seen under the 
microscope as follows : Upon a slip of glass, 
place a drop of liquid chloride of gold or ni- 
trate of silver, with a particle of zinc in the 
gold and copper in the silver. A growth of 
exquisite gold or silver ferns will vegetate 
under the observer's delighted eye. 

6182. To Prepare a Skeleton. After 
cutting off as much flesh and cartilage from 
the bones as possible, boil them in water till 
the remainder easily separates. The French 
still further prepare their skeletons by bleach- 
ing for a short time in a weak solution of 
chloride of lime. 

6183. PMal Barometer. Take a com- 
mon phial and cut off the rim and part of the 
neck with a file. This may also be effected 
by means of a piece of cord passed round it, 
and moved rapidly to and fro, in a sawing 
direction ; the one end being held in the left 
hand and the other fastened to any convenient 
object, while the righthand holds and moves the 
phial ; when heated, dip it suddenly into cold 
water, and the part will crack off. {See Nos. 
2368, 4^c.) Then nearly fill the phial with 
clean water, place your finger on the mouth, 
and invert it ; withdraw your finger, and sus- 
pend it in this position with a piece of wire or 
twine. In dry weather the under surface of 
the water will be level with the neck of the 
bottle, or even concave; in damp weather, on 
the contrary, a drop will appear at the mouth 
and continue until it falls, and is then followed 
by another in the same way. 

6184. The Chemical Barometer, or 
Storm. Glass. Take a long narrow bottle, 
such as an old-fashioned eau-de-Cologne bot- 
tle, and put into it 2| drachms of camphor 
and 11 drachms of spirit of wine ; when the 
camphor is dissolved, which it will readily do 
by slight agitation, add the following mixture : 
Take water, 9 drachms; nitrate of potassa 
(saltpetre), 38 grains ; and muriate of ammo- 
nia (sal ammoniac), 38 grains. Dissolve these 
salts in the water before mixing with the 
camphorated spirit ; then shake the whole 
well together. Cork the bottle well, and wax 
the top, but afterwards make a very small 
aperture in the cork with a red-hot needle. 
The bottle may then be hung up, or placed in 
any stationary position. By observing the 
different appearances which the materials as- 
sume as the weather changes, it becomes an 
excellent prognosticator of a coming storm or 
of a sunny sky. 

6185. To Teach a Parrot to Speak. 
The quickest way is to send the bird, if possi- 
ble, where there is another paiTot who can 
speak. They should be placed near enough to 
hear, but not see each other, and the one will 
soon imitate the other. A good way is to 
speak to the bird at night j just when his cage 



has been covered over (which must always bo 
done with a woolen rug in winter) repeat over 
several times in the same tone the sentence 
you wish him to learn. He may not appear 
to notice at first, but some day, quite unex- 
pectedly, he will repeat the sentence exactly 
in the same tone that he has heard it. He 
should at once be rewarded with a bit of 
sugar, or fruit, or any little dainty that he is 
fond of. They are very quick at understand- 
ing that rewards are given for obedience. 
Xever allow a parrot to be startled or teased, 
or permit it to be fed indiscriminately by 
visitors. Keep the cage extremely clean ; let 
it be wiped out and fresh sand given every 
day. Some birds drink very little, but they 
should always be able to get a drink of fresh 
water if they wish. It is also a good j)lan to 
let a small quantity of canary seed be in the 
seed can ; it is possible that the morning 
bread and milk may be forgotten, and the 
seed will thus prevent the bird being starved. 

6186. Etching Shells. This is done 
by means of acid. The parts not to be acted 
upon must be protected by a so-called etch- 
ing-gi-ound, which consists of a thin layer of 
varnish blackened in a flame so as to see 
plainly the figures afterward drawn on it. Be 
careful, when doing this, to make a clear draw- 
ing or wi'iting in which the shell is exposed 
at the bottom of every line, as any remaining 
varnish would protect those parts, and the 
writing would not be brought out. The 
acid, either strong acetic, diluted nitric, or 
muriatic, is then applied, and when its action 
is sufBcient it is washed off with water, the 
varnish is rubbed off with turpentine or alco- 
hol, when the drawing or lettering will ap- 
pear, and look as if cut in with an engravei^s 
tool. The design may also be drawn with 
varnish on the shell by means of a fine brush, 
then the acid will dissolve the surface around 
the lines drawn, and the writing will appear 
in relief, the letters being elevated in place of 
being sunk in as by the former process. The 
latter is the more common way in which these 
shells are treated. This method is applied to 
many other objects ; all that is wanted being 
a liquid dissolving the material to be acted 
upon, and a varnish to protect some parts 
from its action. 

6187. To Clean Shells. Make lye by 
boiling strong ashes, allow it to settle ; pour 
the lye over the shells, and boil them 6 or 7 
hours, or longer if they are large ; then soak, 
and wash often in fresh water. 

6188. To Color Shells. Dissolve a little 
lac dye in a solution of chloride of tin ; and 
having made the shells thoroughly clean, dip 
them in this preparation until they are of the 
desired color. The dye should be first boiled, 
and then allowed to stand to settle. 

6189. To Keep Gold-Fish. Gold-fish 
must be kept in a vessel of sufficient capacity, 
and be given fresh water every day, or at 
least every other day. It is best to clean the 
vessel then, by washing it inside with a cloth. 
The fresh water ought to be clean, and not 
too hard. It is not good to feed them, as the 
food will only serve to render the water unfit 
for their existence, and if renewed every day, 
the water itself furnishes them with enough 
material for their sustenance. Fish kept in 
this way generally perish from wact of oxy« 



54.4: 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS, 



gen. Anything, therefore, which consumes it 
ought to be avoided, and this is a reason for 
not giving them any food. Green leaves of 
living plants have an opposite effect, and they 
may be kept for this purpose in fish-bowls ; 
they absorb the carbonic acid in the water ex- 
haled by the fish, giving off oxygen, which is 
in turn taken up by the fish and reconverted 
into carbonic acid. 

6190. Food for Mocking-Birds. Mix 
together 2 parts corn-meal, 2 parts pea-meal, 
and 1 part moss-meal; add a little melted 
lard, but not sufficient to make the mixture 
too greasy, and sweeten with molasses. Fry 
in a frying-pan for k hour, stirring constantly, 
and taking care not to let it burn ; this makes 
it keep well. Put it in a covered jar. The 
moss-meal is prepared by drying and grinding 
the imported German moss-seed. 

6191. German Paste for Feeding 
Singing-Birds. Blanched sweet almonds, 1 
pound; pea-meal, 2 pounds; butter, Bounces; 
saffron, a few grains ; honey, a sufficient quan- 
tity. Form the whole into a paste, and gran- 
ulate it by pressing it through a cullender. 
Some add the yolks of 2 eggs. 

6192. How to See Under Water. 
The Indians of North America do this by cut- 
ting a hole through the ice, and then covering 
or hanging a blanket, in such a manner as to 
darken or exclude the direct rays of the sun, 
when they are enabled to see into the water, 
and discover fish at any reasonable depth. 
Let any one who is anxious to prove this, 
place himself under the blanket, and he will 
be astonished when he beholds with what a 
brilliancy everything in the fluid world is 
lighted up. A correspondent of the Scientific 
American says : " I once had occasion to 
examine the tjottom of a mill pond, for which 
I constructed a float out of inch boards, suffi- 
cient to buoy me up ; through the centre of 
this float I cut a hole, and placed a blanket 
over it, when I was enabled to clearly dis- 
cover objects on the bottom, and several lost 
tools were discovered and picked up. I am 
satisfied that, where water is sufficiently 
clear, this latter plan could be successfully 
used for searching for lost bodies and arti- 
cles." 

6193. To Prepare Soap for Bubbles. 
Dissolve castile soap in strong alcohol ; let it 
settle, or filter, and take the clear solution, 
from which evaporate the alcohol. The solid 
residue is oleate of soda. To this add half 
its weight of glycerine and sufficient water to 
give the proper consistency. The beauty of 
the experiments will compensate for all the 
trouble. 

6194. To Produce Large and Long- 
lasting Soap-Bubbles. For the produc- 
tion ot unusually large soap-bubbles that 
will last for hours, and exhibit splendidly the 
beautiful colors of the rainbow, a fluid may 
be employed that can easily be prepared in 
the following way ; Fine shavings of palm- 
oil soap are shaken in a large bottle with dis- 
tilled water, until a concentrated solution of 
the soap is obtained; this is filtered through 
gray filtering paper, and then mixed with 
about one-third its bulk of pure glycerine. 
The fluid is to be shaken up before use. By 
means of a small glass funnel, of two inches 
diameter, connected with a tube of india-rub- 



ber, soap-bubbles may be prepared with this 
fluid, that will vie in beauty of color with the 
rainbow itself, and which may be kept for a 
long while by putting them carefully upon an 
iron ring which is slightly rusty and thorough- 
ly wet with the soap solution. Bubbles of 
1 foot and more in diameter will keep from 5 
to 10 minutes ; those of 2 or 3 inches in diam- 
eter will retain their form for 10 or 12 hours. 

6195. To Transfer Ornaments for 
Carriages, Wagons, &c. This beautiful 
art is now practiced by many painters, for 
the sake of economy of time and labor. De- 
calcomine pictures expressly designed for car- 
riages are now sold at the leading stationers' 
stores, and the amateur painter is enabled 
thereby to finish a job of carriage painting in 
fine style. These pictures may be stuck on, 
and the dampened paper carefully removed, 
leaving the picture intact upon the panel, re- 
quiring no touching with the pencil. 

6196. To Apply Decalcomine Pic- 
tures. The proper way to put on decalco- 
mine pictures is to varnish the picture care- 
fully with the prepared varnish (which can 
be obtained with the pictures), with an or- 
namenting pencil, being sure not to get the 
varnish on the white paper. In a few min- 
utes the picture will be ready to lay on the 
panel, and the paper can be removed by wet- 
ting it ; and when thoroughly dry, it should 
be varnished like an oil ]3ainting. Be partic- 
ular to purchase only those transfer pictures 
which are covered with gold leaf on the back, 
for they will show plainly on any colored 
surface, while the plain pictures are used only 
on white or light grounds. They may be 
procured at any stationery store, and the cost 
is trifling. 

6197. Lead for Pencils. The easiest 
way of producing not only black lead, but all 
sorts of pencils, is by tho following process, 
which combines simplicity, cheapness, and 
quality. Take white or pipe clay, put it into 
a tub of clear water, to soak for 12 hours, 
then agitate the whole until it resembles 
miDv ; let it rest 2 or 3 minutes, and pour off 
the supernatant milky liquor into a second 
vessel ; then allow it to settle, pour off the 
clear water, and dry the residue on a filter. 
Then add black lead in any quantity. Pow- 
der it, and calcine it at a white heat in a 
loosely covered crucible ; cool, and most care- 
fully repulverize; then add prepared clay and 
prepared plumbago, equal parts. Make into 
a paste with water, and put into oiled moulds 
of the size required ; dry very gradually, and 
apply sufficient heat to give the required de- 
gree of hardness — the pieces to be taken care- 
fully from the moulds and placed in the 
grooves of the cedar. The more clay and 
heat employed, the harder the crayon ; less 
clay and heat produce a contrary effect. The 
moulds must be made of 4 pieces of wood, 
nicely fitted together. 

6198. Artificial Sea Water for Aqua- 
ria. A rough imitation of sea water is 
formed by mixing 100 ounces of fresh water 
with 3 ounces common salt, 1 ounce Epsom 
salts, 200 grains chloride of magnesium, and 
40 grains chloride of potassium. Or, more 
precisely, the real constitution of sea-water 
may be imitated in the following manner: 
Mix with 970,000 grams rain water 27,000 of 



MISC ELLAXE OrS RECEirT£, 



54r5 



chloride of sodium, 3500 of chloride of mag- 
aesiura, 750 of chloride of potassium, 29 of 
bromide of magnesium, 2300 of sulphate of 
magnesia, 1400 of sulphate of lime, 35 of car- 
bonate of lime, 5 of iodide of sodium. These 
all being finely powdered and mixed first, are 
to be stirred into the water, through which a 
Stream of air may be caused to pass from the 
bottom until the whole is dissolved. On no 
account is the water to be boiled, or even 
heated. Into this water, when clear, the 
rocks and sea- weed may be introduced. As 
soon as the latter are in a flourishing state, 
the animals may follow. Care must be taken 
not to have too many of these, and to remove 
immediately any that die. The loss by evap- 
oration is to be made up by adding clean 
rain water. The aquarium, whether of fresh 
or of salt water, will require occasionally arti- 
ficial aeration. This may be done by simply 
blowing through a glass tube which reaches 
io near the bottom, or, better still, in the fol- 
lowing way : Take a glass syringe which can 
be easily worked. Having filled it with wa- 
ter, hold it with the nozzle about 2 inches 
from the surface of the water in the aquarium, 
into which the contents are to be discharged 
quickly, and with a sort of jerk. By this 
means a multitude of small bubbles are 
forced down into the fluid. This operation 
should be repeated for a considerable number 
of times. 

6199. To Prevent Stair Carpets from 
Wearing. Stair carpets should always have 
s slip of paper put under them, at and over 
the edge of every stair, -which is the part 
where they wear first, in order to lessen the 
friction of the carpet against the boards be- 
neath. The strips should be within an inch 
or two as lon^ as the carpet is wide and about 
4 or 5 inches in breadth. A piece of old car- 
pet answers better than paper if you have it. 
This plan will keep a stair carpet in good 
condition for a much longer time than with- 
out it. 

6200. To Make an iEolian Harp. Of 
very thin cedar, pine, or other softwood, make 
a box 5 or 6 inches deep, 7 or 8 inches wide, 
and of a length just equal to the width of the 
window in which it is to be placed. Across 
the top, near each end, glue a strip of wood I 
inch high and ^ inch thick, for bridges. Into 
the ends of the box insert wooden pins, like 
those of a violin, to wind the strings around, 
two pins in each end. Make a sound-hole in 
the middle of the top, and string the box with 
small cat-gut, or blue violin strings. Fasten- 
ing one end of each string to the wooden pin 
in one end of the box, and canying it over the 
bridges, wind it around the turning-pin in the 
opposite end of the box. The ends of the box 
should be increased in thickness where the 
wooden pins enter, by a p'ece of wood glued 
upon the inside. Tune tl 3 strings in unison 
and place the box in the window. It is better 
to have 4 strinjis, as described, but a harp 
with a single string produces an exceedingly 
sweet melody of notes, which vary with the 
force of the wind. 

6201. To Remove the Disagreeable 
Taste from New Wooden VesseU. First 
scald them with boihng water, then dissolve 
Eome pearlash or soda in lukewarm water, 
adding a little lime to it, and wash the inside 



of the vessel well with the solution. After- 
wards scald it well with plain hot water before 
using. 

6202. To Preserve Ribbons and Silks, 

Ribbons and other silks should be put away 
for preservation in brown paper; the chloride- 
of lime used in manufacturing white paper 
frequently produces discoloration. A white- 
satin dress should be pinned in blue paper, 
with brown paper outside, sewn together at 
the edges. 

6203. To Make Feather Brushes, 
Boil the wing feathers of a turkey or chicken 
for 5 or 10 minutes, then rinse them in tepid* 
water, dry them and tie them up in bunches 
to use in greasing pans and for brushing egg 
over tarts or yastry. 

6204. Remedy for Frozen Potatoes. 
In time of frost, potatoes that have been? 
afiected thereby should be laid in a perfectly 
dark place for some days after the thaw has- 
commenced. If thawed in open day they 
rot ; but if in darkness, they do not rot ; and 
they lose very little of their natural proper- 
ties. 

6205. To Make Fire Kindlers. Take 
a quart of tar and 3 pounds of resin, melt 
them, bring to a cooling temperature, mix 
with as much coarse sawdust, with a little 
charcoal added, as can be worked in ; spread 
out while hot upon a board ; when cold, break 
up into lumps of the size of a large hickory 
nut, and you have, at a small expense, kind- 
ling material enough for a household for one- 
year. They will easily ignite from a match 
and burn with a strong blaze, long enough to - 
start any wood that is fit to burn. 

6206. To lioosen Ground Glass Stop- 
pers. Sometimes the ground glass stoppers : 
of bottles become, from one cause or another,, 
fixed in the neck, and cannot be removed by 
pulling or twisting. An efl'ectual method is to 
wrap a rag wet with hot water around the 
neck and let it remain a few seconds. The 
heat will expand the neck of the bottle, wher 
the stopper can be removed before the heat 
penetrates the stopper itself. Or, wind a 
string once or twice around the neck, and, 
holding the bottle between the knees, pull' 
alternately on one and the other end, thus 
creating friction, and consequently heat. Or 
a little camphene dropped between the neck 
and stopper of the bottle will often relieve the 
stopper. 

6207. To Remove a Glass Stopper. 
The most efl'ectual mode of removing stop- 
pers, especially those of small bottles, such as 
smelling-bottles, is as follows : Take a piece oi 
strong cord, about a yard or 4 feet in length, 
double it at the middle, and tie a knot (^Fig. 1, 
6) so as to form a loop (a) of about 4 inches. 




Fig. 1. 

in length ; at the doubled end, bring the knot 
close to one side of the stopper, and tie the- 
ends tightly together on the opposite side, as- 
at Fig. 2 (e) so as to fasten the string securely 
round the neck of the stopper ; now pass oner 
of the ends through the loop (a), and then tie- 
it firmly to the other end ; the doubled cor?" 



i>4:e 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



is then to be placed over a bar or other sup- 1 
port; then if the bottle is surrounded by a 
cloth, to prevent accident in case of fracture, 
and pulled downwards with a jerk, the force 
of which is gradually increased, it will be 
found that in a short time the stopper is liber- 




Fig. 2. 

ftted. Two precautions are requisite — one is, 
that the strain on both sides of the stopper 
is equal ; the other, that care be taken that 
when the stopper is liberated, it is not dashed 
by the rebound against any hard substance, 
vhich would cause its fracture. 

6208. To Keep Up Sash Windows. 
This is performed by means of cork, in the 
simplest manner, and with scarcely any ex- 
pense. Bore 3 or 4 holes in the sides of the 
gash, into which insert common bottle-cork, 
projecting about the sixteenth part of an inch. 
These wiU press against the window frames 
along the usual groove, and by their elasticity 
support the sash at any height which may be 
required. 

6209. How to Treat a Burning 
Chimney. If it is desired to extinguish the 
fire in a chimney which has been lighted by a 
fire in the fireplace, shut aU the doors of the 
apartment so as to prevent any current of air 
up the chimney, then throw a few handfuls of 
common fine salt upon the fire in the grate or 
stove, which will immediately extinguish the 
fire in the chimney. The philosophy of this 
is, that in the process of burning the salt, 
muriatic acid gas is evolved, which is aprompt 
extinguisher of fire. 

6210. To Prevent Glass from Crack- 
ing by Sudden Heating. Probably more 
articles of glass in daily use are broken by 
being suddenly heated than by blows or other 
acts of carelessness. Glass is a very poor con- 
ductor of heat, and when hot water is poured 
suddenly into a tumbler or goblet, it is almost 
certain to break unless the glass itself is 
quite warm. Tepid water should be first 
used, or a little cold water be poured into the 
glass on which the hot water may be drawn. 
Lamp chimneys frequently crack when placed 
upon the lighted lamp, especially if taken 
from a cold room. The proper remedy is to 
turn up the flame slowly or by degrees ; this 
will gradually heat the glass, and prevent its 
fracture. 

6211. To Restore the Color of Win- 
dow Glass. Window glass constantly ex- 
posed to the action of the sun and rain soon 
deteriorates, as the potash or soda it contains 
combines with the carbonic acid of the air. A 
whitish opaqueness is the result of this action ; 
and in order to restore the pane to its original 
clearness, rub it with dLlute muriatic acid, and 
then clean with moistened whiting. It is said 
that giass in an extreme state of decomposi- 
tic D may be restored by this means. 



6212. To Clean Discolored Glass. 

Glass that appears smoky may be cleaned 
by applying dilute nitric acid, when soap, tur- 
pentine, alcohol, or scouring with whiting 
would make no impression on it. "Water of 
ammonia is also efiective. 

6213. To Remove a Ring from a 
Swollen Finger. A thread should be 
wound evenly around, beginning at the ex- 
tremity of the finger, and bringing each coil 
close to the preceding, until the ring be 
reached. A needle is then threaded on and 
passed under the ring, and the thread is care- 
fully unwound from the finger. The ring 
follows each coil as it is successively unrolled, 
and by almost imperceptible degrees is 
brought over the knuckle and removed. Care 
must be taken that the thread is wound on 
evenly, particularly over the swollen knuckle, 
or an entanglement will occur in the unwind- 
ing. A curved needle will pass under the 
ring more easily than a straight one. 

6214. To Prevent Gas Meters from 
Freezing. Half a pint (or less) of good 
glycerine is said to prevent the freezing of a 
gallon of water, though at least double the 
proportion is preferable in the country, what- 
ever the temperature in the winter may hap- 
pen to be. Water containing about 40 per 
cent, of glycerine is but little inclined to 
freeze. Glycerine in a pure state is perfectly 
inert, and exercises no influence upon the 
metals of which the meter is composed. 
Whiskey, on the contrary, undergoes the acet- 
ous fermentation, by which the alcohol is 
converted into acetic acid, which corrodes 
the meter, and soon wears it out. 

6215. To Prevent the Creaking of 
Doors. Apply a little soap to the hinges. 
Or : Take lard, soap, and black lead, equal 
parts, and apply. 

6216. To Keep Kerosene Oil. This 
oil should be kept for use in air-tight closed 
vessels. A large quantity is best kept in a 
well-corked can provided with a faucet an inch 
or two from the bottom, so that the oil can 
be drawn off as required, without disturbing 
the sediment which usually collects on the 
bottom of the vessel ; by this means the oil 
will be always clear and bright. The small 
cans used for filling lamps should be kept 
closely corked both at the neck and spout. 
If either cork be left out for a day or two, the 
oil will bum duU, and cake on the wick ; this 
is more especially the case when the can is 
kept in a warm place. 

6217. Management of Broome. If 
brooms are wetted in boiling suds once a 
week, they will become very tough, will not 
cut a carpet, la«t much longer, and always 
sweep like a new broom. 

6218. To Wash White Dogs. Make 
a good lather of white soap with a little spirit 
of turpentine ; wash the dog as quickly as 
possible in this while it is waim, but not hot, 
taking care not to let the soap lather get into 
its eyes. Have a tub with clean tepid water 
in Tvhich a little blue has been dissolved 
ready; when the coat is clean dip the dog 
into the blue-water and rinse out the soap. 
The'u rub it well in a clean sheet before a fire; 
if the hair is long comb it out and brush it as 
it dries. The turpentine will kill fleas unless 
the dog is much infested with them. 



MISCELLAXEOUS RECEIPTS. 



547 



6219. To Paint an Iron Bath Tub. 

Mix the paint to a proper cousistency with 
best coachmakers' Japan varnish. For white 
lead paint, use half turpentine and half coach- 
maker^" Japan. It will not darken much. 
Venetian red is be^;t for a first coat, for any 
color but white. 

6220. To Raise Old Veneers. In re- 
pairing old cabinets, &c., workmen are often 
at a loss to know how to get rid of those blis- 
ters which appear on the surface. "We will 
describe how the operation may be performed 
without diflficulty. First wash the surface 
with boiling water, and with a coarse cloth 
remove dirt or grease; then place it before 
the fire; oil its surface with linseed oil, place 
it again to the fire, and the heat will make 
the oil penetrate quite through the veneer 
and soften the glue underneath ; then, whilst 
hot, raise the edge gently with a chisel, and it 
will separate completely from the ground. 
Be careful not to use too much force, or you 
will spoil the work. If the work should get 
cold during the operation, apply more oil, and 
heat it again. TThen you have entirely sep- 
arated the veneer, wash ofi" the glue, and pro- 
ceed to lay it again as a new veneer. 

6221. To Take Bruises out of Furni- 
txire. "Wet the part with warm water; 
double a piece of brown paper 5 or 6 times, 
soak it in warm water, and lay it on the 
place; apply on that a warm, but not hot, 
flat iron, till the moisture is evaporated. If 
the bruise be not gone, repeat the process. 
After two or three applications the dent or 
bruise will be raised to the surface. If the 
bruise be small, merely soak it with warm 
water, and hold a red-hot iron near the sur- 
face, keeping the surface continually wet; 
the bruise v^ill soon disappear. 

6222. To Dissolve Gum-Shellac in 
Ammonia. The vessel containing the shel- 
lac is put into a large vessel with hot water. 
Boiling water is then poured on the gum, 
after which ammonia is added slowly, but 
continuously, stirring all the while with a 
glass rod, until solution is efiected. An ex- 
cess of ammonia will color the solution 
brown. After cooling, the fluid is filtered, 
and may be kept in this state a long while. 

6223. To Manage Water-Pipes in 
Winter. When the frost begins to set in, 
cover the water-pipes with hay or straw bands, 
twisted tight round them. Let the cisterns 
and water-butts be washed out occasionally ; 
this will keep the water pure and fresh. In 
pumping up water into the cistern for the 
water-closet, be very particular in winter 
time. Let all the water be let out of the 
pipe when done ; but if this is forgotten, and 
it should be frozen, take a small gimlet and 
bore a hole in the pipe, a little distance from 
the place where it is let off, which will pre- 
vent its bursting. Put a peg into the hole 
when the water is let off, 

6224. To Protect Lead Water-Pipes. 
Dr. Schwarz, of Breslau, notes a simple 
method of protecting lead pipes from the ac- 
tion of water, by forming on the inside sur- 
face of the pipes an insoluble sulphide of lead. 
The operation, which is a very simple one, 
consists in filling the pipes with a warm and 
concentrated solution of sulphide of potassium 
or sodium ; the solution is left in contact with 



the lead for about 15 minutes, and then 
poured out. 

6225. Blowing Out Steam Boilers. 

Steam boilers should never be blown out un- 
der steam pressure. The safety valve should 
first be raised until the pressure is all removed 
by letting the steam escape as rapidly as pos- 
sible ; then the hand hole plate or other de- 
vice should be opened, and the dirt and sedi- 
ment will run out with the water. If the 
boiler is allowed to cool off, the dirt will set- 
tle to the bottom and be fastened on by the 
heat. The dirt is always on the top of the 
water when there is any pressure of steam 
on it. 

6226. Substitute for a Corkscrew. 
A convenient substitute for a corkscrew, when 
the latter is not at hand, may be found in the 
use of a common screw, with an attache<£ 
string to pull the cork. Or, stick two steel 
forks vertically into the cork on opposite sides, 
not too near the edge. Run the blade of a 
knife through the two, and give a twist. 

6227. To Remove a Cork from the 
Inside of a Bottle. With a stout string 
projected into the bottle, turn the bottle 
around until the cork is caught in a loop of 
the string, and with force pull out the cork. 

6228. To Remove Starch or Rust 
from Flat-Irons. To remove starch or 
rust from flat-irons, have a piece of yellow 
beeswax tied in a coarse cloth. When the 
iron is almost hot enough to use, but not 
quite, rub it quickly with the beeswax, and 
then with a clean, coarse cloth. 

6229. To Prepare New Linen for 
Bein^ Embroidered. iS^ew linen may be 
embroidered more easily by rubbing it over 
with fine white soap ; it prevents the threads 
from cracking. 

6230. To Shell Beans Easily. Pour 
upon the pods a quantity of scalding water 
and the beans will slip very easUy from the 
pod. By pouring scalding water on apples, 
the skin may be easily slipped off, and much 
labor saved." 

6231. To Improve the Wicks of 
Candles. First steep the wicks in a solution 
of lime-water in which saltpetre has been 
dissolved. To 1 gallon water add 2 ounces 
saltpetre and | pound lime. Dry well the 
wicks before using. It improves the light, 
and prevents the tallow from running. 

6232. Adhesive for Leather Belts. 
Printers' ink is a good adhesive for leather 
belts. One application will keep a leather 
belt in running order for 12 months. 

6233. Ajutage of Fountains. M. 
Francois, in his work, '•' Art des Fontaines," 
estimates the decrease in the height of the 
jet to be 1 foot below the level of the source 
for every 100 yards distance. He considers 
the ajutage or opening of the pipe should be 
J of the size of the pipe itself. Where pipes 
are already laid down, and the power of the 
head not very accurately known, it is well, by 
means of a leaden nozzle, the orifice of which 
may be readily increased or diminished, to 
test the amount of force, so that the ajutage 
may be adapted to throw the highest and 
fullest jet the head is capable of, 

6234. To Make Composition Orna- 
ments for Picture Frames or Other 
Purposes. Mix as much whiting as you 



54r8 



MISCELLAXEOUS BECEIPTS. 



think will be required for present use ^vitll 
tMnnisti glue, to the consistence of putty; 
and having a mould ready, rub it well all over 
with sweet oil, and press your composition in 
it ; take it out, and you will have a good im- 
pression, which you may set by to dry ; or, if 
wanted, you may, before it gets bard, apply it 
to your work with thick glue, and bend it 
into the form required. 

6235. To Stop Leaky Skylights. 
Leaky skylights may be stopped and cured 
with Dutch rushes, bedded in, caulked, and 
covered with good white lead. On wet mak- 
ing its appearance it quickly attacks the rush, 
which swells up so tight and finn that all 
progress of wet and droppings is effectually 
staved. 

6236. To Thicken and Strengthen 
Muslin. Dip the muslin in dilute sulphuric 
acid. According to Professor Calvert, of 
Manchester, England, this very much in- 
creases its thickness and strength. The cot- 
ton thus prepared is technicallv known as 
'^ blanket." 

6237. To Develop the Inscription 
on Worn Coins. By heating these gradu- 
ally, the inscription will, in almost all cases, 
make its appearance. 

6238. To Preserve Copper Coins 
and Medals from the Action of the 
Air. Immerse them for a moment in melted 
paraffine, and then wipe off the excess of 
paraffine with a clean dry cloth. 

6239. To Prepare Bladders. These 
articles are prepared by cutting off the fat and 
loose membranes attached to them, and wash- 
ing them first in a weak solution of chloride 
of lime, and afterwards in clear water ; they 
are then blown out and submitted to pressure 
by rolling them under the arm, by which they 
become considerably larger; they are next 
blown quite tight, dried, and tied up in dozens 
for sale. Or, dip them in warm water, dry 
and rub them well in with a little glycerine ; 
they will keep soft and pliable. They are 
employed by druggists and oil and colormen 
to tie over pots, bottles, and jars, and to con- 
tain pill masses, and other similar substances. 
Never buy bladders unless they are perfectly 
dry and tight, as, if the reverse be the case, 
thev will neither keep nor prove sound. 

6240. To Obtain Herbs of the Finest 
Flavor. When herbs are to be kept for 
flavoring dishes, it is obviously of the first 
importance that they should be gathered at 
the right time, and dried in the best manner. 
The seasons when the various herbs have in 
their fullest flavor, are as follows : Basil, 
from the middle of August to the middle of 
September; marjoram, during the month of 
July ; winter savory, the latter end of July 
and throughout August ; summer savory, the 
same ; thyme, of various kinds, during June 
'and July ; mint, the latter end of June, and 
during July; sage, August and September; 
tarragon and burnet, June, July, and Aug- 
ust; chervil, parsley, fennel, elder flowers, 
and orange flowers. May, June, and July. 
As the seasons vary in different localities, a 
good general rule is to gather the herbs when 
they first blossom. Herbs should be gathered 
on a dry day, before the sun has been long 
upon them. When intended for preservation, 
they should be cleaned from dirt and dust, 



and dried gradually upon a warm stove, or in 
a Dutch oven, after which they may be tied 
up in bags made of old newspaper. Or, the 
leaves may be picked off, pounded in a mor- 
tar, passed through a hair sieve, and the pow- 
ders be preserved separately in well-stoppered 
bottles. 

6241. To Remove ClLiker from Th.^ 
Brick. When the fire bricks have become 
covered with clinkers which have fused and 
adhered, they may be cleaned by throwing 
oyster or clam shells into the fire box when 
the fire is very hot, and allowing the fire to 
go out. The clinkers will generally cleave 
off without the use of much force the next 
morning. From 2 quarts to h peck will be 
sufficient for most stoves, and the operation 
can be repeated if some of the clinkers still 
adhere. Salt sprinkled on clinker adhering 
to fire brick will also loosen it. 

6242. To Preserve Carpets. It is 
very advisable in laying down carpets at 
first, to cover the floor beneath them with 
large sheets of paper, so as to prevent the 
dust from rising between the boards. A car- 
pet lasts longer by adopting this precaution. 

6243. To Prevent Injury to Kid 
Gloves from Excessive Perspiration. 
Persons who wear kid gloves in hot weather, 
and who perspire freely, will find that injury 
to the gloves will be prevented by applying 
ordinary corn starch to their hands (dry) 
before drawing on their gloves. Pulverized 
soap-stone will answer the same purpose. 

6244. The Art of Easy Shaving. 
The following is the substance of the instruc- 
tions of the celebrated Mr. Mechi on this sub- 
ject : jSTever fail to well wash your beard with 
soap and cold water, and to rub it dry, im- 
mediately before you apply the lather, of 
which the more you use, and the thicker it is, 
the easier you will shave. IN'ever use warm 
water, which makes a tender face. In cold 
weather, place your razor (closed of course) 
in your pocket, or under your arm, to warm 
it. The moment you leave your bed (or 
bath) is the best time to shave. Always 
wipe your razor clean, and strop it before 
putting it away ; and put your shaving-brush 
away with the lather on it. The razor (being 
only a very fine saw) should be moved in a 
sloping or sawing direction, and held nearly 
flat to your face, care being taken to draw 
the skin as tight as possible with the left 
hand, so as to present an even surface, and to 
throw out the bearcl. 

6245. To Hone a Razor. The surface 
of the hone must be perfectly level. The 
razor should be held flat on the hone, and the 
back never raised, or it will induce a round 
or thick edge. Draw the razor from heel to 
point, alternating th'^v sides at each stroke, 
and the action always against the edge. 
When the edge is wiry and thin enough to 
turn, strop it on a coarse strop, drawing the 
edge occasionally over the thumb nail, until 
the edge is smooth, then finish on a fine 
strop, and the palm of the hand. 

6246. Strop for Razors. There are 
many kinds of razor strops formed of leather 
glued on a wooden holder*. These are apt, in 
time, to round the ed ge of the razor, by allow- 
ing the blade to bed itself or sink in the 
leather. The best is a strip of Russia leather, 



MISCELLAXEOUS RECEIPTS. 



54:9 



strained as tight as a drum on a cnrved or 
bowed piece of wood. 

6247. Paste for Razors. Emery very 
finely levigated (washed) in the same man- 
ner as prepared chalk {see No. 1292), mixed 
with lard or tallow, or a mixture of these 
■with neat's-foot oil. Or: equal parts of jew- 
elers' rouge, black lead, and prepared suet. 

6248. Pradier's Paste for Razors. 
Best putty powder, 1 ounce ; jewelers' 
rouge, 1 ounce ; scales of iron, -J ounce ; levi- 
gated Turkey stone, 3 ounces; beef suet, \h 
ounces. Or: Mix equal parts of dried sul- 
phate of iron and salt, and apply a gradually 
increased heat, in a closed vessel. Pulverize, 
elutriate {see Xo. 14), and mix with lard or 
tallow. 

6249. To Strop a Razor. The practice 
of pressing on the edge of a razor in stropping 
so(m rounds it ; the pressure should be direct- 
ed to the back, which should never be raised 
from the strop. If you shave from heel to 
point of the razor, strop it from point to heel; 
but if you begin with the point in shaving, 
then strop it from heel to point. If you only 
once put away your razor without stropping 
it, or otherwise'^perfectly cleaning the edge, 
yon must no longer expect to shave well and 
easy, the soap and damp so soon rust the fine 
edge. A piece of soft plate-leather (chamois 
leather) should always be Kept Tvith razors, to 
wipe them with. 

6250. To Sharpen a Razor. The sim- 
plest method of shai-peniug a razor is to put it 
for half an hour in water to which has been 
added 5^, of its weight of muriatic or sulphuric 
acid, aud after a few hours set it on a hone. 
The acid acts as a whetstone, by con-oding the 
whole surface uniformly, so that nothing fur- 
ther than a smooth polish is necessary. 

6251. To Sharpen Edge Tools. Pro- 
ceed as directed in the last receipt. 

6252. To Grind Cutlery and Edge 
Tools. For grinding, the stone should be 
dipped in water to prevent the heating of the 
tools ; and careful cutlers use oil for polishing, 
instead of water, when using giindstones of 
small diameter. 

6253. Caution in Grinding Cutlery. 
K'ever follow the example of the street knife- 
grinder. He does much work, aud cheap 
work. He uses as little water as possible. 
Give him a good razor or a good knife, and 
he gives it back well sharpened, but a spoiled 
tool', which needs to be hardened anew. 
Theref(n-e, when sharpening tools, take large 
stones with much water, and make slow and 
good work. 

6254. To Sharpen and Set a Saw. 
First, run a file along the edge of the teeth 
till you see them range in a direct line ; then 
lay the blade on a smooth piece of lead, or on 
the end of a trying-plane, and with a square 
steel punch aud a hammer, give a gentle tap 
on ever}" alternate tooth. Reverse the saw 
and punch the alternate teeth on the other 
side, and look down the saw to see that the 
teeth are all equally set. Then begin with 
your file at that part of the saw nearest the 
handle. To sharpen or file the teeth to a 
good point, hold the file so that it makes an 
angle with the saw-blade of about 30 degrees, 
or f that of a mitre angle. Then file every 
other tooth to a very sharp point, sharpening 



only those teeth which are set away from the 
operator. Turn the saw round, and repeat 
the operation on the remaining teeth. The 
file used for sharpening saws should be trian- 
gular, and in fine order. A dull file will 
never make a sharp saw. 

6255. To File a Flat Surface. In 
filing a flat surface on a piece of iron, unless 
there is some skill or care used in the opera- 
tion, the exterior edges are apt to be greatly 
pared away, so that that part of the surface 
about midway between them will be the least 
filed down. The work should be held in a 
bench vise, in such a position that the file will 
run in a horizontal direction nearly level with 
the workman's elbow; but should the work be 
of a very light nature, it may be held in a 
more elevated position; or, if it be very 
heavy, it may be held a little lower. In filing 
flat surfaces,"^a 'surface-plate' is used, to en- 
able the operator to finish the work with ac- 
curacy. The surface-plate is a cast-iron plate 
planed and carefully reduced to a true surface. 
Some red lead is rubbed on this plate before 
being used; then this piece of work is rubbed 
on the plate, and wherever the work is red- 
dened it shows that that part of the work is 
above the level, and has to be filed down ; 
and this process of testing and filing is carried 
on until the work is reduced to a perfectly 
true surface. It saves the file to draw it back 
at each stroke as lightly as possible. There 
is also economy in using the files first on brass 
or cast iron, and afterwards on wrought iron, 

6256. Recutting Files with Acids. 
There are many receipts for converting old 
files into new by means of acids, and among 
the latest is that recently patented by Albert 
I. Ferguson, of Sharon, JPa. The files must 
be thoroughly cleansed in warm water con- 
taining a small quantity of potash, which 
readily removes any grease or dirt from them. 
After the files are thus cleansed, they must be 
washed with warm water and dried by arti- 
ficial heat, j^ext, place 1 pint warm water 
into a wooden vessel, and put into it as many 
files as the water will cover. Then add 2 
ounces blue vitriol (sulphate of copper) finely 
pulverized, and 2 ounces borax, well mixed, 
taking care to turn the files over, so that each 
may come in contact with the mixture. To 
the above mixture now add 7 ounces sul- 
phuric acid and i ounce cider vinegar, which 
will cause the files to assume a red appear- 
ance at first, but they will in a short time 
resume their natural color. Then they must 
be removed, washed in cold water, and dried 
by artificial heat. ^WTien dry, they must be 
sponged with olive oil, wrapped in porous 
paper, and laid aside for use. 

6257. Re-Sharpening Files. A very 
interesting aud economical process has been 
exhibited before the Societe d'Encouragement 
of Paris, by AT. "^erdermann. "V^ell-worn 
files are first carefully cleaned by means of 
hot water and soda ; they are then placed in 
connection with the positive pole of a battery, 
in a bath composed of 40 parts sulphuric acid, 
80 parts nitric acid, and 1000 parts water. 
The negative pole is formed of a copper spiral 
surrounding the files, but not touching them; 
the coil terminates in a wire which rises 
towards the surface. This arrangement is the 
result of practical experience. "When the files 



550 



MISCELLAXEOUS RECEIPTS. 



have been 10 minutes in the bath thej are 
taken out, washed, and dried, when the whole 
of the hollows will be found to have been 
attacked in a veiy sensible manner; but 
should the effect not be sufficient, they are 
replaced for the same period as before. Two 
operations are sometimes necessary, but rare- 
ly more. The files thus acted upon are, to all 
appearance, like new ones, and are said to be 
good for sixty hours' work. 

6258. To Clean Files. The occasional 
cleaning of files in the machine shop by 
means of oil, heat, and the card (wire brush) 
will save dollars to the owner and annoyance 
to the worker. 

6259. To Cut Good Steel Scrapers. 
Part of the blade of a broken saw makes the 
best scrapers ; but, as it is hard, it is very 
difficult to cut it into the required form. The 
best and most expeditious way is to mark 
it out to the size wanted, and then to place 
the blade or steel plate in a vise which shuts 
very close, placing the mark even with the 
face of the vise, and the part to be cut to 
waste above the vise. Then with a • cold- 
chisel, holding it close to the vise and rather 
inclined upwards, begin at one end of the 
steel plate, and with a sharp blow of the 
hammer it will cut it. Keep going on by de- 
grees, and it will with ease be cut to the shape 
required ; then grind the edges of the scraper 
level, and finish by rubbing it on a Turkey- 
stone. 

6260. Knots. It is not a very difficult 
thing to tie a neat and secure knot, yet com- 
paratively few persons know how to accom- 
plish it. Below we give all the knots neces- 
sary for ordinary pui-poses, with illustrations 
and directions for making them. 

6261. The Sheet Bend or Weaver's 
Knot. This knot is usually employed by 
netters, and is called by sailors " the sheet 
bend." It is readily made by 
bending one of the pieces of cord 
into a loop (a, &, Fig. 1), which 
is to be held between the finger 
and thumb of the left hand; the 
other cord, c, is passed through 
the loop from the further side, 
then round behind the two legs 
of the loop, and lastly under 
itself, the loose end coming out 
at d. In the smallness of its 
size, and the firmness with which 
the various parts grip together, 
this knot surpasses every other ; 
it can, moreover, be tied readily 
when one of the pieces, viz., a, b, 
is exceedingly short ; in common 
stout twine,'^less than an inch 
being sufficient to form the loop. Fig. 1. 
The above method of forming it is the sim- 
plest to describe, although not the most rapid 
in practice ; as it may be made in much less 
time by crossing the two ends of cord {a, t, 
Fig. 2) on the tip of the forefinger of the left 
hand, and holding them firmly by the left 
thumb, which covers the crossing; then the 
part c is to be wound round the thumb in a 
loop, as shown in the figure, and passed be- 
tween the two ends, behind a and before & ; 
the knot is completed by turning the end h 
downwards in front of d, passing it through 
the loop, securing it under the left thumb, 





and tightening the whole by pulling d. As 
formed in this mode, it is more rapidly made 
than almost any 
other knot; and, 
as before stated, 
it excells all in 
securi'ty and 
compactness; so 
firmly do the 
various turns 
grip each other, 
that, after hav- 
ing been tightly 
pulled, it is very 
difficult to un- 
tie; this is the 
only drawback 
to its usefulness, 
and in this respect it is inferior to the reef- 
knot. Fig. 3, which is made in precisely the 
same manner that a shoe-string is tied, only 
pulling out the ends instead of leaving them 
as bows. 

6262. The Beef Knot. The only pre- 
caution necessary in making a ^^ 
reef-knot is to observe that the 
two parts of each string are on 
the same side of the loop ; if 
they are not, the ends (and the 
bows, if any are formed) are at 
right angles to the cords. The 
knot is less secure than the wea- 
ver's knot, and is termed by 
sailors a granny-knot. Other 
knots are occasionally used to 
connect two cords, but it is un- 
necessary to describe them, as 
every useful purpose may be 
answered by those above men- 
tioned. 

6263. The Binding Knot. 
The binding knot, {Figs. 4, 5,) J 
is exceedingly useful in connect- ' 
ing broken sticks, rods, <fec., but 
some difficulty is often experienced in fasten- 
ing it at the finish ; if, however the string is 
placed over the 
part to be united, 
as shown in Fig. 
4, and the long 
end &, used to 
bind around the 
rod, and finally 
passed through 
the loop a, as 
shown in Fig. 5, 
it is readily se- 
cured by pulling 
d, when the loop 
is drawn in, and 
fastens the end of 
the cord. 

6264. The 
Double Half 
Hitch or Clove 
Hitch. For fast- 
ening a cord to Fig. 5 Fig. 4. 
any cylindrical object, one of the most useful 
knots'^is the clove hitch, which, although ex- 
ceedingly simple and most easily made, is one 
of the most puzzling knots to the uninitiated. 
There are several modes of forming it, the 
most simple being perhaps as follows : make 
two loops, precisely similar in every respect. 




Fig 3. 




MISCELLANEOUS BECEIPTfi, 



551 



3(6 t# and h, Fig. 6, then bring h in front of a, 
BO as to make both loops correspond, and pass 
them over the object to be tied, tightening 
the ends ; if this is properly done, the knot 
will not slip, although surrounding a tolera- 
bly smooth cylindrical object, as a pillar, 
pole, <fec. This knot is employed b}^ surgeons 
in reducing dislocations of the last joint of the 
thumb, and by sailors in great part of the stand- 
ing rigging. The loop which is formed when 
a cable is passed around a post or tree to se- 
cure a vessel near shore, is fastened by what 




Fig. 6. 
sailors term two half hitches, which is simply 
a clove hitch made by the end of the rope 
which is passed around the post or tree, and 
then made to describe the clove hitch around 
that part of itself which is tightly strained. 
{See Fig. 7.) 




Fig.T. 
6265. The Bowline. This knot is used 
in slinging heavy bodies ; it cannot slip, and 
will never jam under the heaviest strain. It 
is difficult to understand at first, but with a 
little practice can be made very rapidly. 
Take the fixed or standing part of the rope in 
the left hand (this should be done in making 
all knots), lay the free end over it, and then 
by a twist of the wrist make a loop in the 




Fig. 8. 
standing part which shall inclose the free 
end (a, Fig. 8) ; then carry the free end be- 
hind the standing part and tnrough the loop, 
parallel with itself (&, Fig. 8). This knot 
will weU repay the trouble spent in learn- 
ing it. 




6266. How to Tie a Parcel. The tying 
up of parcels in paper is an operation which 
is seldom neatly performed by persons whose 
occupations have not given- them great facil- 
ities for constant practice. Let a single knot 
be made in the end of the cord, which is then 
passed around the box or parcel. This knot- 
ted end is now tied by a single hitch around 
the middle of the cord {Fig. 9) and the whole 
pulled tight. The cord itself is then carried 
at right angles round the end of the parcel, 
and where it crosses the transverse cord on 
the bottom of the box {Fig. 10) it should, if 
the parcel is heavy and requires to be firmly 
secured, be passed over the cross cord, then 

back underneath 
it, and pulled 
tightly, then over 
itself; lastly, un- 
der the cross cord, 
and on around the 
other end of the 
box. When it 
reaches the top it 
must be secured 
F^9' 9. by passing it un- 

der that part of the cord which runs length- 
ways {a, Fig. 9), pulling it very tight, and 
fastening it by two half hitches round itself. 
The great cause of parcels becoming loose is 
the fact of the cord being often fastened to 
one of the trans- 
verse parts (as &, 
Fig. 9), instead of 
the piece running 
lengthways, and in 
this case it invaria- 
bly becomes loose. 
The description 
may perhaps be 
rendered clearer 
Fig. 10. i)y the aid of the 

figures, which exhibit the top and bottom of 
a box corded as described. The cords, how- 
ever, are shown in a loose state, to allow 
their arrangement to be perceived more 
easily. 

6267. Artificial Grindstones. Washed 
silicious sand, 3 parts ; shellac, 1 part ; melt, 
and form it into the proper shape while warm. 
The fineness of the sand must depend on the 
work the stone is intended for. Powdered 
emery may be substituted for sand. The 
same composition is fonned upon pieces of 
wood, for the purpose of sharpening knives, 
and cutting stones, shells, <fec. 

6268. To Make an Emery Wheel 
for Grinding' Tools. Provide a solid wheel, 
made of pine, or any other soft wood, and of 
the size required for the purpose. Turn the 
wheel true, and then turn ronnds or hollows 
in its face, to suit the tools you wish to grind, 
gouges, rounds, &c. Then prepare some best 
glue", and, using it hot and thin, put it on the 
face of the wheel with a brush. The first coat of 
glue should be a light one, and when it is dry 
a second one should be applied, and, as quickly 
as possible, as much emery should be sifted 
upon the wet surface as the glue will hold. 
Trhen this is dry another coat of glue and emery 
should be applied in the same way. This will 
make a wheel that will last for months, and 
grind faster than anything else. No. emery 
is best for this purpose. {See last receipt.) 




552 



MI8CELLANJi:0US BECEIFTS, 



6269. To Cement Emery to "Wood. 

The following cement is -wonderfally tough. 
Melt together equal parts of shellac, white 
resin, and carboMc acid in crystals ; add the 
last after the others are melted. The effect of 
the carbolic acid is surprising. 

6270. Kerosene Oil for Whetstones. 
Kerosene oil on whetstones is superior to any 
other liquid for the purpose, as it keeps the 
fitone in better condition and assists the oper- 
ation of sharpening. 

6271. How to Use a Grindstone. Do 
jot waste the stone by running it in water ; 
but if you do, do not allow it to stand in 
water when not in use, as this will cause a 
soft place ; it is much better to wet the stone 
by dropping water on it from a pot suspended 
above the stone, and stop off the water when 
not in use. Do not allow the stone to get out 
of order, but keep it perfectly round by use of 
^as pipe, or a hacker. Clean off all greasy 
tools before shai-pening, as grease or oil 
destroys the grit. Observe : when you get a 
stone that suits your pui-pose, send a sample 
3f the grit to the dealer to select by ; a half 
junce sample is enough, and can be sent in a 
<etter by mail. 

6272. Soap in Place of Oil on Ar- 
kansas Stones. The employment of oil for 
the purpose of keeping Arkansas and other 
stones in proper condition for sharpening in- 
struments is so general as to be almost, if not 
entirely, to the exclusion of every other sub- 
stance. The tendency, however, to become 
;gummy, and clog the surface of the stone 
after it has been on a short time, and the 
liability of soiling the fingers and imparting 
an unpleasant odor to them, make the use of 
«il objectionable. All this can be readily ob- 
viated, however, by using soap in place of oil, 
as follows : — Eub a piece of toilet soap and a 
little water over the surface of the stone until 
ja thick lather is formed, and then allow this 
to dry. Vhen occasion arises for putting an 
€dge on a tool, a few drops of water will moist- 
en the soap and place the stone in proper con- 
dition for use at once. This plan is one that 
lias been successfully employed for years. 

6273. DriU Lubricator. In drilling 
wrought iron, use 1 pound soft soap, mixed 
'with 1 gallon boiling water. This is a cheap 
lubricator ; it insures working with great ease, 
and clean cuttuig by the drill. 

6274. To Face Oil Stones. Take a 
piece of iron with even or straight face (it 
ought to be planed) ; scatter a little emery or 
:fine sand about as coarse as ISTo. I5 sand 
paper on the iron plate, add a little water and 
Tub the face of the stone, renewing the emery 
or sand and water as requisite, finishing with 
an adition of water without emery or sand. 
This is the quickest and truest way, making 
the stone perfectly straight and occupying 
from 5 to 10 minutes time. 

6275. To Make Plain Chocolate. 
Hoasted cocoa or chocolate beans or nuts are 
made into paste by trituration in a heated 
mortar ; then poured into tin moulds and left 
till cold. In this form it is cake chocolate. 
By grinding this is reduced to chocolate pow- 
der. _ Sweetened and flavored chocolate is 
made in this way : the sugar and aromatics 
being added during the trituration ; the pro- 
(portions of these used for the various kinds of 



chocolate are given below. Yanilla, &c., must 
be ground before adding to the pa,ste. (See 
No. 6279.) 

6276. Prench. Chocolate. CiiLd to- 
gether as in last receipt, 3 pounds best cacao 
nuts, 1 pound refined sugar, and 2 vanilla 
beans. {See Ko.mi^.) 

6277. Spanish Aromatic Chocolate. 
Grind together 11 pounds Caracca nuts, 3 
pounds white sugar, 1 ounce vanilla, J ounce 
ciunamon, and i drachm cloves. {See No. 6279.) 

6278. Spanish Almond and Vanilla 
Chocolate. Take 10 pounds Caracca nuts 
and 3 pounds sugar (or 8 pounds Caracca 
nuts and 2 pounds island cacao and 10 pounds 
sugar), and 3 ounces vanilla. Prepare as in 
the last receipt. 

6279. To Grind Vanilla Beans. Ya- 
nilla is pulverized by triturating with a little 
sugar. 

6280. Molasses Candy. Take 1 quart 
molasses, I2 pounds brown sugar, the juice of 
a large lemon and 12 drops oil of lemon ; mix 
the molasses and sugar together, butter the 
inside of a kettle and put it in. Let it boil 
over a moderate fire for 2 hours, then add the 
lemon juice and boil k hour ; stir it often, to 
prevent it from burning; when thoroughly 
done it will cease boiling ; then butter a pan 
and put it in to cool; if sufBciently done it will 
be crisp and brittle, if not it will be tough and 
ropy. ]Sruts of any kind may be added just 
before it is put in the pan ; they must be well 
stirred in. The candy may be worked by 
keeping the hands well covered with flour, or 
by greasing them well ^^dth butter. The 
working must be done as soon as it is cool 
enough to handle. It may be made of mo- 
lasses only — in this case it requires longer 
boiling — and other flavoring may be used in- 
stead of lemon. 

6281. To Make Taffee. Mix f cup 
butter with 2 of sugar, and, when well stin-ed 
together, put it in a china lined saucepan over 
the fire. Let it boil steadily and gently until, 
by dropping a little on a plate and cooling it, 
you find it sufiiciently stiff. 

6282. To Make Molasses Taffee. To 
1 quart of molasses put 1 gill of cold water, 
and set it over a moderate fire ; let it boil 
steadily until nearly stiff enough, then add 
1 table-spoonful butter and 1 tea-spoonful 
brown sugar. Boil 10 minutes longer, then 
pour into buttered pans. 

6283. Everton Taffee. To make this 
favorite and wholesome candy, take li pounds 
moist sugar, 3 ounces butter, 1^ teacups 
water, and 1 lemon. Boil the sugar, butter, 
water, and half the rind of the lemon together, 
and when done (which will be known by 
dropping into cold water, when it should be 
quite crisp) let it stand aside till the boilinu; 
has ceased, and then stir in the juice of tLo 
lemon. Butter a dish, and pour it in about ^ 
inch in thickness. The fire must be quick, 
and the taffee stirred all the time. 

6284. To Make Cream Rise. Cream 
cannot rise through a great depth of milk. 
Therefore, if milk is desired to retain its cream 
for a time, it should be put into a deep narrow 
vessel ; but if it be desired to free it almost 
completely of cream, it should be poured into 
a broad flat dish, not much exceeding one 
inch in depth. 



MISCELLAXEOUS RECEIPTS. 



553 



6285. To Clear all Kinds of Sugar. 

Take a little gum arable, and a little isin- 
glass dissolved in hot water; pour it, 
^vhen dissolved, in jonx sugar, when it is boil- 
ing, and it will clear all the sediment to 
the top of the pan, which must he skimmed 
oflf as soon as it rises. Loaf sugar may be 
cleared with the white of an e^g, isinglass, or 
gum arabic. A little of each will do. {See 

No. v.m.) 

6286. To Keep a Chum from Froth- 
ing Over. Take the body of the chum and 
cut a groove around the inside of the mouth, 
about 3 inches from the top and | inch deep, 
and then remove half the thickness of the 
wood, making a shoulder all around ; then 
take the cover and cut it to fit nicely inside, 
and you have now done away with the 
necessity for cloths, tubs, pans, (fee, hereto- 
fore required to save the cream flowing over. 

6287. To Make French Coffee. A 
French coffee pot consists of two tin vessels, 
one on top of the other. In the upper one is 
a strainer, and a tin plate pierced with holes. 
The coffee, ground almost as fine as gun- 
powder, is poured into the strainer, and the 
plate with the holes put over it. Boiling 
water is then poured in and filters through 
into the bottom vessel or pot. The pot should 
be kept on the range or stove, a few moments, 
until scalding hot, and the fluid which has 
filtered through poured in at the top again, 
which -^vill extract all the flavor of the berry, 
and make a cup of coffee far superior to that 
boiled. Liebig says, however, that a portion 
of the coffee should be kept out, thrown into 
the bottom of the vessel, and there permitted 
to steep, like tea. This, he says, gives the 
flavor, while the infiltrated portion gives the 
strength. ^o. have tried this experiment 
with great success, and find it a vast improve- 
ment over the method of simply pouring boil- 
ing water on the top ; it is, moreover, 
economical, because the ground coffee is ex- 
hausted more completely than by simple im- 
mersion in hut water. After standing a few 
moments, it is as clear as spring water, and as 
deep colored as claret. A still better plan, in 
making coffee by the filtering method, is 
thus : place the ground coffee in the filter, 
cover it closely ; then pour sufficient boiling 
water in che coffee-pot («o^ n?io tlie filter) to 
cover the bottom about \ inch. Place the 
filter in the coffee-pot, and set the whole on 
the stove or fire, so that the water will boil 
and its steam rise and soften the coffee in the 
filter. In about 5 minutes, empty out the 
water, and pour boiling water through the 
filter as usual. The ground coffee will be so 
thoroughly exhausted of its strength and 
aroma that it will not bear twice watering. 
Coflee should never be brought in contact with 
iron. Tinned coffee-pots that have been used 
for some time are apt to get worn on the sur- 
face, so that the iron the tin plate is made of 
comes through When this occurs the coffee 
will be bitter and black, for it attacks iron, 
forming an acid very quickly. This any one 
can see by putting a few drops on a'case- 
knife. Above all, to have good coffee, the 
pot mnst be scrupulously clean. 

6288. To Keep Suet. Suet chopped 
fine and mixed with flour, if tied down tight 
in a jar will keep 10 days or 2 weeks, and is 



very nice to use for puddings or pastry. If 
there be more suet than will be used while 
fresh, throw it into a pickle made in the pro- 
portion of 4 ounces salt to 1 quart cold water. 
It must be freshened by laying it in fresh water 
an hour or two before using it, and will then 
be as nice as fresh suet. Or the suet may 
be rendered down, and poured into a pan con- 
taining about an inch of cold water. "VThcn 
cold, take off the suet (the impurities will 
have fallen to the bottom of the water), and 
pack it away in jars fin- future use. Do not 
put in salt, if it is intended to use for frying, 
as salt prevents articles from browning easily. 

6289. Imitation Asses' Milk. The fol- 
lowing preparations are used freely as sub- 
stitutes for asses' milk, and may be adminis- 
tered in cases of consumption and general de- 
bility, a tea-cupful 3 or 4 times a day, either 
plain or with a spoonful of rum. 

Mix the whites of 2 eggs with f pint new 
cow's milk, and 1 ounce sugar ; add f ounce 
svrup of tolu. 

^ 6290. Factitious Asses' Milk. Boil 1 
ounce hartshorn shavings to a jelly in 1 pint 
water, adding 2 ounces white sugar; when 
cool add 1 pint new cow's milk and i ounce 
sj'rup of tolu. Used as in the last receipt. 

6291. Liqueur de la Grande Chart- 
reuse. According to Dr. Chevalier, this cel- 
ebrated liqueur, made at the Abbey of the 
name, near Grenoble, is composed of essence 
of melissa citrata, 31 grains ; essence of hyssop, 
31 grains; essence of angelica root, 154 grains; 
essence of best mint, 309 grains ; essence of 
nutmeg, 31 grains; essence orcloves,31 grains; 
and 4^ pints rectified spirits of wine, of best 
quality. The liquid is artificially colored, 
either with turmeric or any other suitable 
material. 

6292. Doppel Kummel. To 5 gallons 
94 per cent, alcohol, add 4 ounces oil of cara- 
way, I drachm (30 drops) oil of anise, 5 drops 
oil of coriander, 5 drops oil of bitter almonds, 
and 10 drops oil of calamus. Add 20 gallons 
French proof spirit, and 15 gallons water in 
which 10 pounds white sugar have been dis- 
solved. This will make 40 gallons kummel 
of a strength of 36f per cent. If for cordial, 
more sugar may be added. 

6293. To Improve Cheap Bourbon. 
Inferior Bonrbon whiskey may be much im- 
proved in quality by the addition of the 
peach flavoring given in Xo. 6294. From 1 
to I5 gallons of the flavoring should be added 
to 40 gallons of whiskey. This will give it a 
fruity taste. 

6294. Peach Flavoring for Whiskey 
j by a New Method. Take a 50-gallon pipe ; 

at 4 or 5 inches from the bottom place a false 

j bottom, perforated with ^-inch holes. Cover 

this false bottom with a thin layer of straw, 

I laid uniformly ; this again covered by a thin 

j even layer of straw laid at right angles across 

j the lower layer. Then pack 10 gallons dried 

I peaches regularly, without pressing them ; 

I add 5 pounds black tea evenly sprinkled over 

' the peaches, and cover the whole with a 

I cloth, Xext pack 10 gallons oak sawdust 

evenly, and cover it also with a cloth. Place 

some pieces of lath over the cloth, with some 

middle-sized stones to keep the sawdust 

down. Insert a faucet in the side of the 

i pipe, between the bottom and the false hot- 



554. 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS, 



torn. "Sov^ add 20 gallons proof spirit, and 
draw off, three times every day, 15 gallons of 
the tincture, and pour it back immediately. 
As the sawdust acts as a filter, the tincture 
will be ready for use and bright in 10 or 15 
days. If a greater quantity is required, 
double the above proportions and use a gin 
cask. 

6295. To Improve Wine by Electric- 
ity. The process consists in plunging into | 
the vat containing the wine, two plates of| 
platinum or of silver, having attached to | 
them two wires of the same metal, which are i 
connected with the poles of an electric bat- \ 
tery. The Bunsen and Dauieirs batteries are i 
much used in France for this purpose. The \ 
time necessary to transform a low grade wine | 
to one of an agreeable and superior quality, is j 
from two to three weeks, with the battery 
continually working. By this method, wines j 
which were considered only fit for making 
vinegar, are changed to such an extent that 
they are used as good, and in some cases su- 
perior table wines. {See No. 726.) 

6296. Pharaoh's Serpents Egg« are 
made in the following way: Take mercury 
and dissolve it in moderately dilute nitric 
acid by means of heat, taking care, however, 
that there be always an excess of metallic 
mercury remaining ; decant the solution, and 
pour it^ into a solution of sulpho- cyanide of 
ammonium or potassium, which may be 
bought at a good drug store, or of a dealer in 
chemicals. Equal weights of both will answer. 
A precipitate will fall to the bottom of the 
beaker or jar, which is to be collected on a 
filter and washed two or three times with wa- 
ter, when it is put in a warm place to dry. 
Take for every pound of this material 1 ounce 
gum tragacanth which has been soaked in 
hot water. "WTien the gum is completely soft- 
ened it is to be transferred to a mortar, 
and the pulverized and the dried precipitate 
gradually mixed with it by means of a little 
water, so as to present a somewhat dry piU 
mass, from which pellets of the desired size 
are formed by hand, put on a piece of glass, 
and dried again ; they are then ready for use. 

6297. Pharaoh's Serpents Eggs. A 
substitute, nearly as good as the original mer- 
cury compound, and superior in not being 
poisonous, is prepared in the following way : 
Take bichromate of potassa, 2 parts ; nitrate 
of potassa, 1 part; white sugar, 3 parts. 
Pulverize each of the ingredients separately, 
and then mix them thoroughly. Make small 
paper cones of the desired size, and press the 
mixture into them. They are now ready 
for use, but must be kept from moisture and 
light. 

6298. Solidified Glycerine for Toilet 
Use. Transparent soap, 1 ounce; water, 4 
ounces ; inodorous glycerine, 24 ounces. Dis- 
solve the soap in the water by heat, adding 
an equal weight of glycerine. Vhen dis- 
solved, add the remaining portion of glycer- 
ine, and sufficient water to make up the 

• weight. "When nearly cold, add any suitable 
perfume and pour in glass jars. It has a very 
pale amber color, is transparent, melts easily 
on the skin, and leaves no residue. 

6299. To Remedy a Scattering Gun. 
To prevent a gun from scattering, insert a 
ring about half an inch in width in the nozzle 



of the gun, beveling from the outer edge to 
nothing at the inward. It can be fastened in 
with rivets. It should be made of metal about 
(^ of an inch in thickness, and be fitted very 
neatly. 

6300. Preservation of Stone. Doctor 
Eugene Eobert, of Paris, recommends copper 
salts as being the best preservatives of stone 
in a damp climate. These salts prevent the 
formation of lichens, to the action of which 
M. Eobert attributes the destruction of stone. 
This is, without doubt, true for granite, but 
its efficiency for sandstone is questionable. 
The latter deteriorates by exfoliation, without 
the development of any Vegetation. 

6301. Ground Tea. ' A French chemist 
asserts that if tea be ground like coffee before 
hot water is poured upon it, it will yield near- 
ly double the amount of its exhilarating qual- 
ities. 

6302. To Impart a Fine Flavor to 
Tea. To impart a fine flavor to ordinary 
tea, place rose leaves in the tea-canister, or 
add one drop of the attar of roses on a piece 
of soft paper to every pound of tea, and keep 
the canister closely covered. 

6303. To Prevent Stoves From Rust- 
ing. Kerosene applied with a rag to stoves 
will keep them from rusting during the sum- 
mer.' It is also an excellent material to apply 
to all iron utensils used about a farm. 

6304. To Remove Pin-Spots from 
Steel. Get a small iron box with a sliding top 
to it, fill it with pulverized charcoal, and im- 
bed the pieces of steel in it, put in the top, 
and lute with fire-clay. Heat it in a slow fire, 
to a red heat, then take out and let it cool off". 

6305. Remedy Against the Cracking 
of Wooden Taps and Faucets. This is 
best prevented by putting the taps and fau- 
cets in melting paraffine, and heating them 
there at a temperature of 212° Fahr., until 
bubbles of air cease to escape from the wood. 
The whole is then allowed to cool to about 
120° Fahr., when the taps are taken from the 
bath and cleaned from the adhering paraffine 
by rubbing with a dry coarse piece of cloth, 

6306. French Composition for Wash- 
ing. Dissolve 1 pound hard soap in 6 gal- 
lons of water, then add i- ounce spirits of tur- 
pentine and 5 ounce spirits of hartshorn. 

6307. Cheap Family Soap. Add to 10 
quarts of water, 6 pounds of quicklime (shell 
lime is best), and 6 pounds common washing 
soda. Put all together and boil for half an 
hour, and let it stand all night to clear. Draw 
off the lye, and add to it 1 pound common 
resin and 7 pounds of fat (any fat will do). 
Boil this for half an hour, then let it stand till 
cool, and cut into bars. 

6308. To Make a Bad Yellow Soap 
Good and Hard. Heat a solution of 28 
pounds hyposulphite of soda in 4 gallons wa- 
ter, with 250 pounds of bad yellow or brown 
soap, and the result will be a good hard soap. 
This is Desborough's patent. 

6309. To Preserve Soap Grease. 
Fill a cask half fuLl of good strong lye and 
drop all refuse grease therein. Stir up the 
mixture once a week. 

6310. Waterproof Starch. This is a 
French patent, and consists in passing the 
goods, after being properly starched, through 
a bath of chloride of zinc at a temperature 



MISCELLAXE OUS RECEIPTS. 



555 



of about 60° Fahr. The starcli will then 
remain in the clothes after several successive 
■washings. 

6311. Cement to Resist Siilphuric 
Aqid. Melt caoutchouc by a gentle heat, 
aad from 6 to 8 per cent, of the weight of tal- 
low, taking care to keep the mass well stir- 
red ; add dry slacked lime, so as to make the 
fluid mass the consistency of soft paste ; and 
lastly add 20 per cent, of red lead, whereby 

|the mass, which otherwise remains soft, be- 
' comes hard and dry. This cement resists, 
according to Dr. Wagner, boiling sulphuric 
acid. A solution of caoutchouc in twice its 
weight of raw linseed oil, aided by heating, 
and the addition thereto of an equal weight 
of pipe-clay, yields a plastic mass which also 
resists most acids. 

6312. Cement for Fixing Glass Let- 
ters. A thick solution of marine glue in 
wood naphtha will answer perfectly if color is 
no object. But the glass must be chemically 
clean, and this is not always easy. The least 
trace of soap or grease will spoil the adhesion 
of any cement. Try soda or ammonia, fol- 
lowed by whiting and water, clean cloths, and 
plenty of rubbing, and let the cement dry on 
the letters till the surface just begins to be 
" tacky" before you apply them, 

6313. New Process for Rendering 
Cloth. Waterproof. This is a method for 
rendering fabrics waterproof without destroy- 
ing their ventilating qualities. Place in a 
metal vessel of about 6 gallons capacity, 20 
pounds sulphate of alumina cut in thin slices; 
and in another similar receptacle 8 pounds 
oleic acid and 6 quarts alcohol. Thoroughly 
dissolve the latter compound, and stir it with 
a wooden stick for 20 minutes, gradually add- 
ing the sulphate of alumina. Leave the whole 
for about 24 hours to settle. The oleic acid 
and the spirit will then be at the surface, and 
can be decanted; the remaining deposit should 
be filtered through flannel, and pressed into a 
cake. This can be dried by heat, and ground 
to a powder. For use on silken or linen 
clothes, 1^ pounds to 20 gallons of water, will 
be ample ; wool will not require more than 1 
pound. It is as well to strain these solutions, 
and the fabrics require only to be thoroughly 
saturated and dried in the air. 

6314. To Clarify anills. Cut ofi* the 
small top of the quills, tie them loosely in 
bundles, fix them nearly upright in a sauce- 
pan of water in which a small piece of alum 
has been dissolved, about the size of a walnut 
of alum to a quart of water; let them boil 
slowly until the}- become clear; add a little 
turmeric or a small pinch of saffron to the 
water, to give them the yellow color; dry 
them in the sun. Tie paper round the feather 
part of the quills, to keep them from dust. 
TL. quantity of alum may be increased ac- 
cording as you wish the quills more or less 
brittle. 

6315. New Glazing for Frescoes. Dr. 
Tohl announces that paraffine, mixed with 
benzole or Canada balsam, affords a glazing 
for frescoes much superior to soluble glass. 
By covering the interior of wine casks with 
Sk film of pure white paraffine, poured in 
melted, he has effectually prevented the spoil- 
ing of the wine and its evaporation through 
the wood. 



6316. To Bend Gas Pipe, This may 
be done by filling the pipe with melted resin. 
When the resin hardens, bend the pipe, and it 
will retain its round form. Eemove the resin 
by heating. 

6317. Chewing Gum i s made as follows : 
Take of prepared balsam of tolu, 2 ounces 
{see second receipt in No. 5102) ; white sugar, 
1 ounce ; oatmeal, 3 ounces. Soften the gum 
in a water-bath and mix in the ingredients ; 
then roll in finely-powdered sugar or flour, to 
form sticks to suit. 

6318. Chewing Gum from Paraffine. 
This article may be made by dissolving paraf- 
fine at a gentle heat in a very little olive oil 
and glycerine. It is stirred on cooling, and 
afterwards compressed. The amount of gly- 
cerine depends on the consistency to be 
desired, and must be determined by the char- 
acter of the paraffine employed. This latter 
consists of mixtures of various carbo-hydrides, 
and is by no means always of the same com- 
position and properties. The glycerine will 
keep it soft and make it sweet at the same 
time. 

6319. Boot Powder. Scraped or pow- 
dered French chalk is used by bootmakers to 
make new boots or shoes go on easily, by 
rubbing or dusting a little of it on the inside 
of the heel and instep of the boot. 

6320. Electric Tissue. Steep linen or 
cotton 1 hour in a mixture of 1 part strong 
sulphuric acid and 3 of pure nitric acid; 
squeeze out the acid, wash with water until 
no sensible acidity remains, plunge it in a 
weak alkaline solution, then in water, and dry. 
By friction it yields a large quantity of resin- 
ous electricitv. 

6321. To Make Modeling Clay. 
Knead dry clay with glycerine instead of 
water, and a mass is obtained which continues 
moist and plastic for a length of time, thus 
removing one of the greatest inconveniences 
experienced by the modeler. 

6322. To Remove Stains from Knives. 
The very best way to clean a stained steel 
knife is to cut a solid potato in two, dip one 
of the pieces in brick-dust (such as is usually 
used for knife-cleaning), and rub the blade 
with it. 

6323. To Prevent Ivory Knife Han- 
dles from Cracking. "When the blades of 
knives require washing or standing in water, 
it should be done in a pitcher, with water 
enough to cover the blades, but not to touch 
the handles ; and the water no hotter than is 
absolutely necessary. Soaking the handles in 
water makes them crack. 

6324. To Cleanse Goose Feathers. 
Feathers are prepared by exposing them to 
the sunshine or in a stove until perfectly dry, 
and then beating them to remove dust and 
loose dirt. When carelessly collected and 
dirty, they may be cleansed with lime-water ; 
or, still better, with a weak solution of car- 
bonate of soda, or with water containing a 
little solution of chloride of lime ; after which 
they are rinsed in clean water, and dried as 
before. (-See JVb. 659.) Old feathers are puri- 
fied and cleansed in the same way. 

6325. Coloring Castor Oil. Make a 
strong tincture of turmeric root with strong 
alcohol, and add a few drops to the oil until 
you have the desired color. Rather than being 



5t>G 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



p disadvantage, it will prove a benefit, tend- 
ing to prevent griping. 

6326. Labels for Damp Situations. 
"Write on the back of adhesive plaster. Labels 
made of this substance are not affected by 
damp, and adhere strongly. 

6327. To Heproduce a Beautiful 
White on Flannel Goods Turned Yellow 
by Age, For the restoration of old flannels 
to their original color, Professor Artus recom- 
mends the fclloAving method: Dissolve 2^ 
pounds "white Marseilles soap in 75 pounds 
soft water, and to the solution add, under con- 
stant stirring, 1 ounce liquor ammonia. The 
goods are soaked in this fluid, and afterwards 
well washed with water. The object may be 
accomplished, however, more quickly, l^y put- 
ting the goods for 1 hour in a dilute solution 
of bisulphite of soda, and adding, under con- 
stant stirring, some dilute hydrochloric acid, 
when the vessel has to be covered and the 
goods left in it for 15 minutes longer. They 
are then thoroughlv washed in water. 

6328. Sizing for Holland liinen. The 
sizing or dressing employed for the Holland 
used for window shades is prepared as follows : 
Take 1 part crystallized carbonate of soda ; 4 
to 6 parts each white wax, stearine, and pure 
white soap ; 20 parts carbonate of magnesia 
or fine Paris white; 40 parts potato starch, 
and 160 parts fine wheat starch. Boil these 
together with sufficient water to make 1600 
parts altogether. A little ultramarine is 
added, if needed, to counteract the yellow 
tint of the linen, which is starched with this 
preparation, passed between rollers, and dried. 
It is then sprinkled with soap water, placed 
in a stamping mill, and afterwards steamed 
and calendered. 

6329. Starch. Lustre is a substance used 
for washing purposes, which, when added to 
starch, causes the linen to which it is applied 
to assume not only a high polish, but a daz- 
zling whiteness. A piece of lustre of the size 
of a copper cent added to 5 pound starch, and 
boiled with it for 2 or 3 minutes, will produce 
the best results. The starch lustre consists 
of stearine, colored by a slight addition of 
ultramarine blue, the essential ingredient 
being the stearine ; and, with or without the 
coloring matter, will be found to add very 
much to the beauty of linen articles to which 
it is applied. {See JSfcs. 497, ^c.) 

6330. To Clean Windows and Mir- 
rors. Tie up some finely powdered whiting 
in a small piece of muslin. Dab it over the 
glass thoroughly ; the dirtier the glass the 
more whiting will adhere to it. IsText smear 
it evenly with a damp rag, and let it remain 
until perfectly dry ; then rub it off with a 
leather. This is an easy, clean, and thorough 
plan. If alcohol be used instead of water, it 
will dry in much less time, and polishes the 
glass fuUy better. The corners of the window- 
panes should receive particular attention; 
they are too often left dirty^ and spoil the ap- 
pearance of the window. 

6331 . To "Wash Mirrors or Wiridows. 
For washing finger-marks from looking- 
glasses or windows, put a few drops of am- 
monia on a moist rag, and make quick work 
of it. 

6332. Ganteine. A composition for 
cleaning kid gloves; sometimes improperly 



termed Saponine. Dissolve 3 troy ounces 
soap by heat in 2 ounces water, and when 
nearly cold add 2 ounces javelle water and 1 
drachm water of ammonia; form a paste, 
whi h is to be rubbed over the glove with 
flannel tiU sufficiently clean. 

6333. To Clean and Preserve Brew- 
ing Utensils. In cleaning them before 
being put away, avoid the use of soap, or any 
greasy material, and use only a brush and^ 
scalding water, being particularly careful not 
to leave any yeast or fur on the sides ; then 
place them away in a clean and moderately 
dry situation. Should they become tainted 
or mouldy, take a strong lye of pearlash, 
which spread over the bottoms of the vessels 
scalding hot, and then with the broom scrub 
the sides and other parts. Or: Take common 
salt and spread it over the coolers, &c., and 
strew some on their wet sides, pour in scald- 
ing water and scrub them with a broom. Or: 
Throw some quicklime into water in the ves- 
sel, and scrub over the bottom and sides with 
it ; in each case well washing afterwards with 
clean water. Or: Wash well first with oil of 
vitriol diluted with 8 times its weight of wa- 
ter, and afterwards with clean water. 

6334. To Restore the Color of an 
Acid Stain on Violet Silk. Acid dropped 
on violet-colored silk destroys the color; to 
restore it, brush the discolored stain with 
tincture of iodine ; then, after a few seconds, 
saturate the spot well with a solution of hy- 
posulphite of soda, and dry gradually; the 
color wiU be perfectly restored. 

6335. To Transfer Engravings onto 
Glass. First coat the glass with copal var- 
nish, then press on the picture, face down- 
wards, smoothly and tightly; let it dry. 
]^ext damp the paper slightly, and rub it off 
with the finger, leaving the picture to be 
looked at through the glass. 

6336. To Transfer Engravings on 
"Wood, Stone, &c. Take a saturated alco- 
holic solution of potash, pour the solution on 
the engraving, and immediately remove all 
the superfluous liquid by means of blotting 
paper. Lay the engraving, while damp, upon 
the wood or other material to which it is to 
be transferred, and place it in a press. (A 
copper-plate press is the best.) The trans- 
fer will be obtained immediately. The engra- 
ving must be immersed in clear, cold water, 
after removal from the potash bath. (Orr.) 

6337. How to "Wash Priatrng RoUers. 
Avoid all grit, sand, and dirt; simply use 
strong ley to loosen the ink, and quickly, 
with a soft sponge, wash the ley off with 
water (in winter blood-warm) squeezing the 
sponge dry, face up the roller, so that no 
moisture remain thereon. Let it then stand 
exposed to the air one hour, machine rollers 
two hours, before distributing ink on its sur- 
face. The time for exposure must be guided 
by the state of the weather, as shorter time 
wiU do in dry or windy weather. Be careful 
^"0 ink the roller as soon as possible after 
txposure, to keep it tacky. (See No. 2542.) 

6338. Gelatiae Capsules. A strong 
solution is made of 6 parts gelatine and 1 part 
£.ugar; the extremity of a rod of bulbous 
shape is oiled, and dipped into the solution; 
when the rod is withdrawn it is rotated, in 
order to diffuse the fluid jelly equally over its 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



557 



surface ; as soon as the gelatinous film has 
partially hardened, it is removed from the 
mould and placed on pins furnished with 
suitable heads, and fixed on a cork table. 
When dr\^, the capsules are placed upright in 
little cells made in the table to receive them, 
and the liquid with which they are to be 
filled is introduced by means of a small glass 
tube. They are then closed by dropping 
some melted gelatine on the orifice of each. 
Ricord recommends that capsules containing 
copaiba be coated with extract of rhatany, 
which is easily done by immersing the capsule 
for an instant in a mixture of 3 parts newly 
prepared extract of rhatany, 1 part syrup of 
moist sugar, and 1 pare mucilage of gum ara- 
ble, melted together in a water-bath. Cap- 
sules thus prepared are said to act with greater 
certainty, as well as improving the tone of 
the stomach. 

6339. To Remove Nitrate of Silver 
Stains. A solution of iodide of potassium 
will freely dissolve iodine. Silver stains 
moistened for a while with this solution will 
be converted into iodide of silver, which is sol- 
uble in iodide of potassium. The stains will 
therefore have disappeared when the cloth, 
after the foregoitig treatment, is washed in 
water. {See Xo. 385.) Perhaps the best 
method of removing these stains is as follows: 
The stained cloth is washed with a concentra- 
ted solution of sulphate or chloride of zinc 
and then touched with a piece of metaUic 
zinc. This same process may be used for the 
removal of ink stains in both cases without 
danger to the fabric. After the color has 
disappeared, they are washed first with pure 
water and then with water and soap. Xo 
visible traces of the stains are left behind. 
(^ee.Yo. 3141.) 

6340. To Remove Nitrate of Silver 
Stains from Woven Tissues. According 
to M. Grrimm, chloride of copper completely 
removes, even from colored woven cotton 
tissues, stains occasioned by nitrate of silver ; 
the tissue is to be afterwards washed with a 
solution of hyposulphite of soda, and next 
thoroughly washed with water. From white 
cotton and linen tissues, nitrate of silver 
stains are more readily and effectually re- 
moved by applying dilute solution of perman- 
ganate of potassa and hydrochloric acid, fol- 
lowed by washing with hyposulphite of soda 
solution, and rinsing in plenty of fresh water. 
By these means the use of the highly poison- 
ous cyanide of potassium is rendered unneces- 
sarv. {See Xos. 385 and 3141). 

6341. To Dissolve Old Blood Stains. 
Dr. Helwig recommends a solution of iodide 
of potassium in four times its weight of 
water. 

6342. Silk Cleaner. Mix weU together 
i pound soft soap, a tea-spoonful of brandy, 5 
pint proof-spirit, and i pint water. It is to 
be spread with a sponge on each side of the 
silk without creasing it ; the silk is then rins- 
ed out 2 or 3 times, and ironed on the wrong 
side. {See Xo. 460.) 

6343. Fluid for Removing Grease 
Stains from Silk, &c. A fluid for remov- i 
ing greasy stains from silk, &e., may be pre- ! 
pared by mixing 2 ounces rectified spirits of 
turpentine, i ounce absolute alcohol, and i 
ounce sulphuric ether. " i 



6344. To Remove the Stains of Ben- 
zine. In removing grease spots from fabrics 
by means of benzine or petroleum it often 
happens that a colored and stained outline of 
the portion moistened is left. This can be 
prevented by the application of a layer of 
gypsum extending a little beyond the moist- 
ened region. When dry, the powder is to be 
shaken and brushed off, when no trace of the 
spot will remain. 

6345. To Clean Silver. To clean silver 
utensils, blackened by sulphuretted hydrogen, 
Boettger recommends a boiling saturated solu- 
tion of borax, or a solution of caustic potash, 
with some fragments of metallic ziuc. 

6346. To Clean a Wedgwood Mortar. 
A solution of caustic potash will usually be 
effectual ; this may be triturated in the mor- 
tar with fine sand or powdered pumice-stone. 
Sometimes sulphuric acid will serve a better 
purpose. Chlorinated lime (chloride of lime) 
will' sometimes remove the color where it is a 
stain merelv. 

6347. To Dye Gutta-Percha. Dissolve 
1 ounce gutta-percha in chloroform, and add ^ 
grain of pure carmine, previously mixed with 
a little powdered gum and water ; then distill 
off the chloroform and knead well the re- 
maining gutta-percha. In the same way ul- 
tramarine, ochre, oxide of chrome, <fcc., may 
be used. 

6348. To Clean Gutta-Percha. This 
can be done by using a mixture of soap and 
powdered charcoal, polishing afterwards with 
a drv cloth with a little of the charcoal on it. 

6349. To Dye Straw Hats Black. 
The following is given as a black color for 
straw hats. The quantities of material are 
intended for 25 hats or bonnets. They are 
kept for 2 hours in a boiling decoction of 4 
pounds logwood, 1 pound sumach, and 5 oun- 
ces fustic^; and afterwards dipped into a so- 
lution of nitrate of iron of 4° Baume, then 
well rinsed with water, and, when dry, are 
painted over with a solution of lac or dex- 
trine. 

6350. To Dye Leather Yellow. Pic- 
ric acid gives a good yellow without any 
mordant ; it must be used in very dilute solu- 
tion, and not warmer than 70° Fahr., so as 
not to penetrate the leather. 

6351. To Dye Leather Green. Ani- 
line blue modifies picric acid to a fine green. 
In dyeing the leather, the temperature of 85° 
Fahr. must never be exceeded. 

6352. To Dye Leather Green. Aniline 
green is well adapted to dyeing leather, and 
its application is quite simple. "Wliether 
used in paste or as powder, we must make a 
concentrated aqueous solution. The leather 
is brushed over with a solution of sulphate of 
ammonia, mixed with water, the dye solution 
apphed at 95° Fahr., and it must be endeav- 
ored, by rapid manipulation, to prevent the 
dye from penetrating through the leather. 
By the addition of picric acid, the blueish 
shade of this dye-stuff is modified to leaf 
green, and it becomes faster ; but the picric 
acid must not be added to the color solution ; 
it must be applied to the leather before or 
after the dyeing with aniline gi*een. {Spring- 
771 uhl.) 

6353. Slating for Black-Boards. The 
imitations of slate are of two kinds, real imi- 



558 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS, 



tationS; consisting of pulverized slate or 
quartz rock moistened to the consistency of a 
thick fluid with silicate of soda (water-glass of 
commerce), and appKed to the boards by 
means of a brush ; or merely paints, such as 
asphaltum or Grahamite dissolved in petro- 
leum naphtha. The first one will produce 
slates that are very similar to the natural 
slates, less expensive than those, and last a 
good while. 

6354. Asphalt for Walks. Take 2 
parts very dry lime rubbish, and 1 part coal- 
ashes, also very dry, and both sifted fine. In 
a dry place, on a dry day, mix them, and 
leave a hole in the middle of the heap, as 
bricklayers do when making mortar. Into 
this pour boiling hot coal-tar ; mix, and when 
as stiff as mortar put it 3 inches thick where 
the walk is to be ; the ground should be dry, 
and beaten smooth. Sprinkle over it coarse 
sand. When cold, pass a light roller over it ; 
in a few days the walk will be solid and 
waterproof 

6355. To Make Oravel Walks. The 
bottom should be laid with lime-rubbish, 
large flint stones, or any other hard matter, 
for 8 or 10 inches, to keep weeds from grow- 
ing through, and over this the gravel is to be 
laid 6 or 8 inches thick. This should be laid 
rounding up in the middle, by which means 
the larger stones will run off to the sides, and 
may be raked away; for the gravel should 
never be screened before it is laid on. It is a 
common mistake to lay these walks too round, 
which not only makes them uneasy to walk 
upon, but takes off from their apparent 
breadth. 1 inch in 5 feet is a sufficient pro- 
portion for the rise in the middle ; so that a 
walk 20 feet wide should be 4 inches higher 
at the middle than at the edges, and so in 
proportion. As soon as the gravel is laid, it 
should be raked, and the large stones thrown 
back again ; then the whole should be rolled 
both lengthwise and crosswise : and the per- 
son who draws the roller should wear shoes 
without heels, that he may make no holes, be- 
cause holes made in a new walk are not easily 
remedied. The walks should always be rolled 
3 or 4 times after very hard showers, which 
will bind them more firmly than could be ac- 
complished by any other method. 

6356. Polisliing Powder for Specula. 
Precipitate a dilute solution of sulphate of 
iron by ammonia in excess ; wash the precip- 
itate, press it in a screw press till nearly dry, 
then expose it to heat until it appears of a 
dull red color in the dark. {Lord Ross.) 

6357. To Make a Voltaic Pile. Take 
disks of copper, zinc, and woolen cloth of any 
size, soak the cloth in a solution of sal-ammo- 
niac, then pile them up in the following 
order: Copper, zinc, cloth, and so on. The 
relative position of the metals in each pair 
must be observed throughout the whole series, 
so that, if the pile commences with a copper 
plate, it shall terminate with a zinc one. 
These two extremes are called the poles. 
Zinc is called the positive pole, and copper 
the negative pole. The outer disks are con- 
nected with copper wire, that the electric or 
galvanic stream which is excited in the pile 
may ^)e conveyed to any place desired. "When 
the *wo ends of the wires are brought very 
near to each othei; sparks are seen to dart 



from one to the other; this is a token of the 
galvanic current, manifesting itself in the 
same manner as the current of the electrical 
machine. The larger the disks and the 
greater their number, the greater is the inten- 
sity of the current. 

6358. To Make a Cistern. A good 
cistern can be made in a solid clay soil, if 
not in an exposed situation, by cementing 
against the sides of the ground. Where the 
ground freezes we would not recommend 
such a practice, but lay a wall of cobble- 
stones in a mortar of cement, and face the 
wall with a thick coating of clear mortar. 
Great care must be exercised to get good ce- 
ment, and mix it with coarse sand. Fine 
sand will not do at all. 1 part cement and 3 
parts sand is the usual proportion, to be used 
as soon as mixed. Every part of the wall 
must be laid below the reach of the frost. 
This can be done, and an iron or wooden pipe 
or throat lead to the surface, through which 
the pump can pass. A cheap and excellent 
cistern can be constructed of wood, in the 
form of a large cask, or a tank made of pine 
or cedar plank. When sunk into the ground, 
and kept constantly wet, it will last for years. 
A better way is to place the tank or cask in 
one comer of the cellar, with a faucet in the 
bottom, from which the water is easily drawn 
when it is desirable to clean it out and when 
water is required in the cellar. An open cis- 
tern in a cellar will rarel y freeze. 

6359. To Purify Water. Chloride of 
iron and carbonate of soda, in the proportion 
of 10 parts by weight of the former salt and 
265 of the latter to a quantity of water equal 
to 20,000 parts, has been found a most valua- 
ble and quite innocuous means of purifying 
water, even such as is otherwise quite unfit 
for drinking purposes, and could not be ren- 
dered fit by alum. The salts alluded to are 
best previously dissolved in some pure water, 
and the solutions, that of iron first, poured 
into the tank containing the water intended to 
be operated upon. The soda solution is not 
added until after a few moments, the water 
being first vigorously stirred. The soda solu- 
tion having been added, the fluid is stirred 
again, and then left quiet for the purpose of 
allowing the very bulky and floculent sedi- 
ment to deposit; this takes considerable 
time — from 24 to 36 hours. 

6360. Gutta-Percha Tissue. If a so- 
lution of gutta-percha in chloroform be mixed 
with 3 parts of ether and exposed for some 
time to a temperature below 15° Fahr., the 
gutta-percha will be precipitated as a white 
powder, forming, when washed and dried, a 
soft white mass. If some of this solution be 
spread on a plate of glass, a skin is formed, re- 
sembling kid-glove leather, which becomes 
transparent on the application of heat. These 
films are beautifully white if carefully pre- 
pared, and have been employed in the manu- 
iacture of the finest kinds of artificial flowers.. 

6361. Mosaic Silver. Take 2 parts 
each pure tin and purified bismuth, melt them 
together by a moderate heat, and add 1 part 
purified mercury. When cold reduce the 
mass to a fine powder. {Eager.) 

6362. Mosaic Gold. Melt 12 ounces 
pure tin, by a gentle heat, add 6 ounces mer- 
cury; and reduce to powder; when cold, add 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



559 



6 ources muriate of ammonia, and 7 ounces 
flowers of sulphur ; mix thoroughly. Place 
the compound in a glass flask, and gradually 
heat to redness in a sand-bath, continuing the 
heat till all white fumes cease; during this 
operation bisulphuret of mercury, muriate of 
tin and sal-ammoniac are sublimed, leaving 
the mosaic gold at the bottom of the flask in 
soft, brilliant, gold-colored flakes. Mosaic 
gold, also called Aurum Musivum, is therefore 
the bisulphuret of tin. ( CooJc}/. ) 

6363. To Preserve Pencil and Indian 
Ink Sketches. To a solution of collodion 
of the consistency used by photographers, 
add 2 per cent, of stearine. The drawing is 
then spread on a board or plate of glass and 
the collodion poured over it as in photography. 
[See Xo. 3143.) It dries in 10 to 20 minutes, 
and so thoroughly protects the drawing that 
it may be washed without fear of injury. 

6364. Golden Compound. Melt anhy- 
drous tuugstate of soda iu a porcelain crucible, 
over a spirit lamp, at \ temperature not more 
than sufficient to fuse it. Add small pieces of 
pure tin to the melted mass, and cubes of a 
golden color instantly form. The process 
should not be continued too long, or they ac- 
quire a purple hue. 

6365. Ink for Writing on Tin Plates. 
Mix together without heat, 1 part pine soot, 
with 60 parts of an aqueous solution of nitrate 
of copper. (Eager.) 

6366. Black Stencil Ink. Triturate 
together 1 part pine soot and 2 parts Prussian 
blue with a little glycerine, then add 3 parts 
gum arable, and sufficient glycerine to form a 
thin paste. 

6367. Factitious Beef Marrow. Mix 
together, by dissolving at a gentle heat, 2 
parts fresh hogs' lard and 1 part cacao 
butter. 

6368. To Obtain Absolute Alcohol. 
A Grerman savant has recently improved on 
the well-known method employed by Men- 
delejeff, for obtaining absolute alcohol. 
Strong alcohol is boiled with quicklime, the 
pieces of the latter projecting above the sur- 
face of the liquid for i hour or more, with a 
condenser inverted so that the liquid may re- 
turn by its own gravity- to the flask. The 
condenser is then reversed, and the alcohol 
redistilled. If the alcohol contains more 
than 5 per cent, of water, the process must be 
repeated 2 or 3 times. The vessel should 
only be half filled with the pieces of lime, as 
the rapid formation of hydrate of lime may 
break it to pieces. (See Xo. 1442.) 

6369. Bougie. A long slender instru- 
ment, introduced into the urethra, oesopha- 
gus, or rectum, to overcome strictures of 
those canals. Add 3 parts boiled linseed oil 
to 1 part melted amber, and when mixed add 
1 part oil of turpentine ; spread the mixture 
at 3 successive intervals upon loose spun silk 
cord or web, dry in a heat of 1.50° Fahr., and 
repeat the process until the instrument has 
acquired the proper size, then polish, first 
with pumice-stone, and afterwards with tripo- 
li and oil. This is the original receipt of the 
French Professor Pickel, and is still generally 
used in Europe, slightly modified as fol- 
lows : Add to the oil and amber, melted to- 
gether as last, caoutchouc in the proportion 
of ^ of the weight of the oil employed ; 



when dissolved, remove the vessel from the 
fire and proceed as before. 

6370. Hunter's Bougie. Boil slowly 
together, until combination takes place, 2 
parts yellow wax, 3 parts red lead, and 6 parta 
olive oil ; strips of soft linen- rather wider at 
one end than the other, are then dipped into 
the composition, rolled up firmly, and finish 
ed on a polished slab. 

6371. Catheters, or Hollow Bougies. 
These are made of the same composition as 
the ordinary bougies, but a piece of polished 
metallic wire is introduced into the axis of the 
silk ; or tinfoil is rolled round the wire and 
the composition applied as before. 

6372. Caoutchouc, or Elastic Gum 
Bougies. These are made by applying an 
ethereal solution of india-rubber to the silk or 
foil prepared as in the foregoing methods. 
Where ether is expensive naphtha is employ- 
ed, but it furnishes a very inferior product. 
Sometimes slips of india-rubber previously 
boiled in water, or that have had their edges 
softened with ether, are wound round the 
wire or foil, and kept in their place by a piece 
of tape applied over them, as in making elas- 
tic tubes. They are afterwards carefully 
smoothed off and polished. 

6373. To Prevent Lamp Chimneys 
from Cracking. Put the chimneys into a 
kettle of cold water, and gradually heat it 
until it boils, and then let it as gradually cool ; 
the chimneys will not be broken by the ordi 
nary fluctuation of the flame of the lamp. 

6374. To Mend Rubber Overshoes, 
&c. Rub the patch and shoe thoroughly 
with sharp sand paper. Smear both with 
liquid rubber 5 times, every time letting them 
dry. Do this once more, and, before they 
dry, apply the patch, with pressure if possi- 
ble, and the boot is mended. If liquid rubber 
is not obtainable, dissolve small pieces of pure 
rubber (not vulcanized), in warm spirits of tur- 
pentine, to the consistence of syrup. 

6375. To Preserve and Restore Oil 
Paintings. Many valuable paintings suffer 
premature decay from the attacks of a mi- 
croscopic insect of the mite class. The best 
method of preventing this species of decay 
is to add a few drops of creosote to the paste 
and glue used to line the picture, as well as to 
make a similar addition to the varnish. If it 
has already commenced, the painting should 
be at once carefully cleaned and relined, ob- 
serving to employ a little creosote in the way 
just mentioned. Paintings should be kept in 
as pure an atmosphere as possible, and in a 
moderately dry situation ; as it is the pres- 
ence of sulphuretted hydrogen in the air that 
blackens the " lights, " and causes most of 
the middle tints and shades to fade ; and it is 
exposure to damp that produces mouldiness 
and decay of the canvas. For this reason 
valuable paintings should not be kept in 
churches, nor suspended against heavy walls 
of masonry, especially in badly ventilated 
buildings. Excess of light, particularly the 
direct rays of the sun, also acts injuriously on 
paintings. The blackened lights of old pic- 
tures may be instantly restored to their origi- 
nal hue by touching them with deutoxide of 
hydrogen, diluted with 6 or 8 times its weight 
of water. The part must be afterwards washed 
with a clean sponge and water. 



560 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



6376. Compressed Leather. A new 

process for using the clippings and refuse from 
saddlers' and shoemakers' shops is as fol- 
lows: The leather shavings are washed 
clean, cut up fine^ and soaked in water and 
sulphuric acid. 1 per cent, of the acid being 
Bufficient. The immersion must continue till 
the shavings become plastic, and the leather 
then can be pressed into moulds with only a 
moderate amount of pressure. It can be 
rolled into thin sheets, and will be useful for 
many purposes ; it will not, however, resist 
moisture. A little glycerine rubbed in will 
prevent its cracking. 

6377. To Render Walls Water-tight. 
It is proposed by Mr. F. Kansome, of Lon- 
don, to render stone and brick walls water- 
proof by coating them to saturation with a 
solution of silicate of soda, which is superfi- 
cially decomposed by the further application 
of chloride of calcium. The surface thus 
obtained consists of silicate of lime, which is 
perfectly insoluble, and therefore water-tight, 
while it does not alter the appearance of the 
wall. (See No. 2171.; 

6378. To Wash Silks, ^o person 
should ever wring or crush a piece of silk 
when it is wet, because the creases thus made 
will remain forever if the silk is thick and 
hard. The way to wash silk is to spread it 
smoothly upon a clean board, rub white soap 
upon it, and brush it with a clean hard brush. 
The silk must be rubbed until all the grease 
is extracted, then the soap should be brushed 
off with clean coid water, applied to both 
sides. The cleansing of silk is a very nice 
operation. Most of the colors are liable to 
be extracted with washing in hot suds, espe- 
cially blue and green colors. A little alum, 
dissolved in the last water that is brushed on 
&ilk, tends to prevent the colors from running. 
Alcohol and camphene, mixed together, are 
used for removing grease from silk. 

6379. To Extinguish Fires. Dr. Clan- 
ny's solution consists of 5 ounces sal-ammo- 
niac to 1 gallon water. The compound used 
in Phillip's Fire Annihilator is said to consist 
of dried prussiate of potash, sugar, and chlor- 
ate of potash. 

6380. To Prevent Mouldiness. The 
best preventive is any of the essential oils, as 
the oil of lavender, cloves, peppermint, &c. 
Russia leather, which is scented with the tar 
of the birch tree, is not subject to mouldiness, 
and books bound in it will even prevent 
mouldiness in other books bound in calf, near 
which they happen to lie. 

6381. To Keep Gum- Arabic from 
Moulding. Solutions of gum-arabic soon 
mould and sour, and finally lose their adhe- 
sive property. It is said that sulphate of 
quinine will prevent this, while it imparts no 
bad odor of its own. The addition of a solu- 
tion of a few crystals of this salt to gum-ara- 
bic will prevent the formation of mould quite 
as effectually as carbolic acid, and by analogy 
it is safe to suppose that the same salt could 
be used in writing ink, mucilage, and, possibly, 
glue. 

6382. To Prevent the Formation of 
a Crust in Tea-kettles. Keep an oyster- 
shell in your tea-kettle. By attracting the 
stony particles to itself, it will prevent the 
formation of a crust. 



6383. Bird Lime. Boil the middle bark 
of the holly 7 or 8 hours in water; drain it, 
and lay it in heaps in. the ground, covered 
with stones, for 2 or 3 weeks, till reduced to 
a mucilage. Beat this in a mortar, wash it in 
rain water, and knead it till free from extra- 
neous matters. Put it into earthen pots, and 
in 4 or 5 days it will be fit for use. An Infe- 
rior kind is made by boiling linseed oil for some 
hours, until it becomes a viscid paste. 

6384. Substitutes for Lenses. Pro- 
cure a piece of thin platinum wire, and twine 
it once or twice round a pin's point, so as to 
form a minute ring with a handle to it. Break 
up a piece of flint glass into fragments a little 
larger than mustard seed ; place one of these 
pieces on the ring of wire, and hold it in the 
point of the flame of a candle or gas-light. 
The glass will melt and assume a complete 
lens-like or globular form. Let it cool grad- 
ually, and keep it for mounting. Others are 
to be made in the same manner ; and if the 
operation be carefully conducted but very 
few will be imperfect. The smaller the drop 
melted, the higher in general will be its mag- 
nifying power. It may be mounted by plac- 
ing it between two pieces of brass which 
have corresponding circular holes cut in them, 
of such size as to hold the edge of the lens. 
They are then to be cemented together. A 
perfectly round glass globe filled with pure 
water also makes a powerful lens. 

6385. Ether Glue. An excellent liquid 
glue is made by dissolving glue in nitric ether. 
The ether will only dissolve a certain amount 
of glue, consequently the solution cannot be 
made very thick. The glue thus made is 
about the consistency of molasses, and is 
doubly as tenacious as that made with hot 
water. If a few bits of india-nibber, cut into 
scraps the size of buck-shot, be added, and 
the solution be allowed to stand a few days, 
being stirred frequently, it will be all the 
better, and will resist dampness twice as well 
as glue made with water. 

6386. Brick-Dust Cement. Ordinary 
brick dust, made from hard burned, finely- 
pulverized bricks, and mixed with common 
lime and sand, is a good substitute for hy- 
draulic cement. The proportions used in 
general practice are 1 part brick-dust and 1 of 
lime to 2 of sand, mixed together dry, and 
tempered with water in the usual way. 

6387. Cement for a Crack in a Cast- 
iron Pot. If the crack be in the bottom of 
the pot, drill a hole at each extreme end of 
the crack, to stop further cracking, plug rivet 
the holes with copper, and, with fine iron fil- 
ings saturated with urine, caulk the crack. 
This method has been tried on oU-pots on 
board whale ships with success. 

6388. The Drummond Light. This 
brilliant light is produced by directiug a 
stream of oxygen gas, passing through the 
flame of a spirit lamp, upon a small ball of 
quicklime of about I inch in diameter. It 
gives an intense light ; and, placed in the fo- 
cus of a parabolic mirror, has been distinctly 
seen at a distance of 60 miles. 

6389. Doebereiner's Self-Igniting 
Lamp. Take an ordinary fruit jar, with a 
cork stopper or leaden cover; procure any 
old bottle that will go into the jar, at least 
two thirds as taU as the jar. Cut off the bot- 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS. 



561 



fcom of the bottle either vith a file or by 
-v^apping a piece of candle-wick soaked in 
alcohol around it, burning the wick, and dip- 
ping in water while hot. {See Nos. 2367, ^^c.) 
A hole is cut in the cork or lead cover, to 
admit the neck of the bottle and prevent it 
resting on the bottom of the jar. The bottle 
is closed with a cork fitted with a short glass 
tube bent at right angles and drawn to a fine 
opening. Some pieces of zinc are suspended 
in the bottle bv a wire or little basket of lead. 
Thejaristheu filled to about one-half with 
dilute sulphuric acid. The acid, coming in 
contact with the zinc, generates hydrogen 
gas, which escapes from the glass tube. The 
mixture of air and gas being highly explo- 
sive, the lamp should not be ignited until all 
the air has been expelled. After the air has 
escaped, a piece of spongy platinum may be 
placed a little distance from the point of the 
tube. The gas, impinging on the platinum, 
heats it sufficiently to ignite itself. The es- 
cape of gas may be cut off by slipping a rub- 
ber tube closed at one end over the glass tube, 
or a tube with a stop-cock may be used. As 
soon as the escape of gas is cut off, its pres- 
sure drives the acid out of the bottle into the 
jar, and no more gas is generated. Pieces of 
spongy platinum mounted on wires suitable 
for this use may be obtained of dealers in 
chemical apparatus. The lamp may also be 
purchased complete from the same parties. 

6390. Pencils for Writing on Glass. 
Take 4 parts stearic acid, 3 parts mutton suet, 
and 2 parts wax; melt them together and 
add 6 parts red lead and 1 part purified car- 
bonate of potassa, previously thoroughly 
triturated together. Set the mixture aside 
for an hour in a warm situation, stirring fre- 
quently, then pour it into glass tubes or hol- 
low reeds. 

6391. Elastic Cement. Dissolve 1 
drachm gutta-percha in 1 ounce or more bi- 
sulphide of carbon, so as to make a fluid that 
will easily pass through coarse filtering paper. 
After filtering, add about 15 grains pure india- 
rubber, and let it dissolve; or, when it has 
become soft and gelatinous, quickly rub the 
whole smooth with a palette knife on a slab. 

6392. To Mend a BaUoon or Gas-Bag. 
Paint 4 or more coats of the varnish described 
in the last receipt, around the hole in the bag, 
allowing each coat to dry before the applica- 
tion of the next. Treat a piece of fine strong 
muslin in the same way. The last coat on 
each should be pretty thick, and, when nearly 
dry, apply the patch to the bag, and press 
evenly and quite firmly together. When at 
last the whole is dry, press with a warm iron, 
and then paint the surface of the new piece 
with a coat or two of the varnish. If nicely 
done, the bag will be as strong as ever. 
Chloroform may be used in place of the bisul- 
phide of carbon. 

6393. Improvement in Ink-Erasers. 
The Great Lightning Ink-Eraser may be used 
instead of a knife or scraper for erasing ink, 
in order to rectify a mistake or clean off a 
blot without injury to the paper, leaving the 
paper as clean and good to write upon as it 
was before the mistake or blot was made, and 
without injury to the printer's ink upon any 
printed form, or the ruling upon any first-class 
paper. Take of chloride of lime 1 pound, 



thoroughly pulverized, and 4 quarts soft wa- 
ter. The above must be thoroughly shaken 
when first put together. It is required to 
stand 24 hours to dissolve the chloride of 
lime; then strain through a cotton cloth; 
after which add a tea-spoonful of acetic acid 
(Xo. 8 commercial) to every ounce of the 
chloride of lime water. The eraser is used 
by reversing the pen-holder in the hand, dip- 
ping the end of the pen-holder into the fluid, 
and applying it, without rubbing, to the 
word, figure, or blot required to be erased. 
When the ink has disappeared, absorb the 
fluid with a blotter, and the paper is imme- 
diately ready to write upon again. Chloride 
of lime has before been used with acids for 
the purpose as above proposed; but in all 
previous processes the chloride of lime has 
been mixed with acids that burn and destrov 
the paper. (Patented, Jan. 16th, 1872.) 

6394. To Preserve Clothes Pins. 
Clothes pins boiled a few moments and 
quickly dried, once or twice a month, become 
more flexible and durable. Clothes lines will 
last longer and keep in better order if occa • 
sionally treated in the same way. 

6395. To Fasten Loose "Window 
Sashes. The most convenient way to pre- 
vent loose window sashes from rattling un- 
pleasantly when the wind blows is to make 
four one-sided buttons of wood, and screw 
them to the beading which is nailed to the 
casings of the window, making each button 
of proper length to press the side of the sash 
outwards when the end of the button is 
turned down horizontally. The buttons ope- 
rate like a cam. By having them of the cor- 
rect length to crowd the stiles of the sash 
outwards against the outer stop of the win- 
dow frame, the sash will not only be held so 
firmly that it cannot rattle, but the crack 
which admitted dust and a current of cold 
air will be closed so tightly that no window 
strips will be required. The buttons shouW 
be placed about half way between the uppe** 
and lower end of each sash. 

6396. To Detect a Counterfeit Bank 
of England Note. The Bank of England 
possesses no security which may not be known 
by any person who will make himself ac- 
quainted with the following characteristics of 
the paper, the plate printing and thetypeprint- 
ing of the note. The paper is distinguished : 
By its peculiar color, such as is neither sold 
in the stores nor used for any other purpose. 
By its thinness and transparency, qualities 
wliich prevent any portion of the printing on 
the note being washed or scratched out with- 
out a hole being made. By its characteristic 
feel, which consists of a singular crispness and 
toughness, owing to the fact that the bank 
paper is made from new linen and cotton, not 
from rags. By the peculiar "wire-mark or 
water-mark, which can only be produced 
when the paper is in a state of pulp ; conse- 
quently the forger must procure a mould, and 
make his own paper, both requiring the skill 
of such first-rate artisans as are not likely to 
be met with in the haunts of crime. By the 
three deckle or rough edges. These edges 
are produced when the paper is in pulp ; two 
notes being placed in the mould, and divided 
lengthways, hence the top and bottom, or 
long edges, are both rough. The deckle is 



562 



MISCELLAXEOUS RECEIPTS. 



the raw edge of the paper, and cannot be imi- 
tated by cutting. By the strength of the pa- 
per — a bank note will lift a hundred weight if 
carefully adjusted. The printing is of two 
kinds, type and plate; the paper is moistened 
by water driven through its pores by the 
pressure of the atmosphere ; 30,000 double 
notes are thus moistened in the space of an 
hour. The ink used is made at the bank, 
from linseed oil and the charred husks and 
vines of Rhenish gi-apes ; this gives a pecu- 
liar velvety black to the mark in the left-hand 
comer of the note. The notes are numbered 
by a machine which cannot err ; and, lastly, 
are authorized by the signature of the clerk. 
The bank notes are printed on the side of the 
paper which receives the water mark, so that, 
u the paper be split, the unprinted surface 
only retains the slightest trace of that mark. 

6397. To Flatten Engravings or 
Paper that has been Rolled Up. To suc- 
ceed in this, take a roll of paper, wall-paper for 
instance, unroll a porticm of it, and insert the 
paper or card-board, which is to be flattened, 
in such a manner that when the whole is 
rolled up again, the card-board will be bent 
the opposite way to which it was originally 
rolled. Roll up closely and evenly, and let 
it remain for about 15 minutes. If this be 
carefully done, the card-board will be flatten- 
ed without danger of breaking, and free from 
the creases inevitably made if rolled back- 
wards in the hands. If wall-paper be used, 
it should be as thick as can be obtained, and 
the larger the diameter of the roll, the better. 
Collectors of engi-avings will find it worth their 
while to obtain a straight roller, say 3 inches 
in diameter, and 5 or 6 yards of the stout 
paper sold in roils or by the yard under the 
name of •' pattern paper. The cost is trifling, 
and it will last for years. 

6398. To Remove Water Stains from 
Engravings or Paper. Fill a sufficiently 
large clean vessel with pure water; dip the 
engraving in, waving it backward and for- 
ward until wet through. Then fasten it to a 
flat board with drawing pins, and let it dry in 
the sunshine. 

6399. To Bleach Engravings, &c. 
Old engravings, wood cuts, and all kinds of 
printed matter, that have turned yellow, are 
completely restored by being immersed in 
this preparation for only one minute, without 
the least injury to the paper, if the precaution 
is taken to thoroughly wash the article in wa- 
ter containing a iittle hyposulphite of soda. 
Undyed linen and cotton goods of all kinds, 
however soiled or dirty, are rendered snowy 
white in a very short time by merely placing 
them in the liquid mentioned. For the pre- 
paration of Javelle water, take 4 pounds bi- 
carbonate of soda, and 1 pound chloride of 
lime ; put the soda into a kettle over the fire, 
add 1 gallon boiling water, let it boil from 10 
to 15 "minutes, then stir in the chloride of 
lime, avoiding lumps. ^WTien cold, the liquid 
(Can be kept in a jug ready for use. {See No. 
4787.) 

6400. To Clean Soiled Engravings. 
Lay the engraving, face downwards, in a per- 
fectly clean vessel, sufficiently large to allow 
the engraving to lay flat; pour clean boiling 
water upon it, and aUow it to stand until the 
water is cold : take it out carefully and re- 



move as much of the moisture as possible 
with clean blotting paper, then place the en- 
graving in a press between clean white paper. 
If very much soiled, a repetition of the opera- 
tion may be necessarv. 

6401. Fine Black Hair Dye. This is 
composed of two different liquids, 'So. 1, 
called the mordant, which is employed to give 
permanency to the dye, and I^o. 2, which is 
the dye itself. Take ^ ounce pyrogaUic acid, 
6 ounces alcohol, and 18 ounces water; shake 
them well together, and put the mixture in a 
glass-stoppered bottle. This is the mordant, 
and must be labeled Solution No. 1. To pre- 
pare the dye, take 1 ounce nitrate of silver, 2 
ounces ammonia, and 8 ounces distilled wa- 
ter ; dissolve in a stoppered bottle, and mark 
it Solution No. 2. This is a very fine article. 
{See No. 1201.) Directions for using the 
above dye may be found in Xo. 1202. 

6402. Fire Kindlings. In France, a 
very convenient and economical kindling is 
made by dipping corn-cobs for about one 
minute in a bath composed of 60 parts melted 
resin and 40 parts tar. They are next spread 
out to dry on metallic plates heated to the 
temperature of boiling water. {See No. 6205.) 

6403. To Convert Sized Paper into 
Blotting Paper. Common paper may be 
converted into blotting paper by immersing it 
for a few seconds in hydrochloric acid. Some 
recommend for this purpose a mixture of hy- 
drochloric acid and water ; but in experiments 
that have been made, the paper was immersed 
in a bath of the ordinary undiluted acid, 
removing it, after a few seconds, to a vessel 
in which it was treated to several changes of 
water. 

6404. Rother's Soap Liniment. Take 
of soap (genuine castile, mottled or white), 
dry and in ISTo. 12 powder, 24 troy ounces ; 
camphor, 12 troy ounces; oil of rosemary, 3 
fluid ounces ; water, 3 pints ; strong alcohol, 
104 pints. Mix the water with half a pint of 
the alcohol in a capacious vessel; add the 
soap and apply heat until solution has oc- 
curred ; to this add 4 pints of alcohol. In the 
remaining 6 pints of alcohol dissolve the cam- 
phor and oil; to this add the solution of soap; 
mix. Let the impurities (coloring matter of 
the soap) subside, and filter. This is vastly su- 
perior to the officinal process. {See No. 4869.) 

6405. Coating for Black-Boards. In- 
coi-porate flour- emery with shellac vamish, 
adding sufficient lampblack to give the re- 
quired color. If too thick, reduce its consis- 
tency with alcohol. This varnish, applied to 
the surface of wood with a camel's hair var- 
nish brush, produces an excellent black fac- 
ing, and may also be used for preparing 
smaller writing tablets. 

6406. Beautiful Black Ink. Take a 
sufficient quantity of elder benies, bruise and 
keep them for 3 days in an earthen vessel ; 
then press out and filter the juice. To I25 
pints of the filtered juice, add 5 ounce each of 
sulphate of iron, and crude pyroligneous acid. 
The ink that results has, when first used, a 
violet color, but when dry is an indigo blue- 
black. In writing, it flows easily from the 
pen without gumming, and does not thicken 
as soon as common iuk. These are no small 
advantages, and ought to recommend it for 
general use. {See No. 2460.) 



MISCELLANEO VS llECE IFTS. 



563 



6407. To Mount Prints. Make a thin 
size of fish glue or isinglass. Take a good 
sized flat varnish brush, wet the brush with 
the size just sufficiently to moisten the surface 
of the print to the extent of the width of the 
brush and the whole length of the print. 
Commence at one side and continue in this 
way until you have gone over the whole sur- 
face. Draw the brush with a light, quick 
stroke, as closely each time to the part pre- 
viously wet as possible, without lapping or 
going twice in one place. When dry, go 
over it again in the same way, only at right 
angles to the first stroke. Let this dry, then 
proceed to mount as follows : Stretch, as 
tightly as it will bear, to a frame of the re- 
quired size, a piece of new, smooth, fine mus- 
lin or factory cloth. Rub over the whole sur- 
face of this, with a good paste-brush, a suffi- 
cient quantity of well-cooked paste, made of 
equal parts of wheat-flour and starch, to thor- 
oughly wet the cloth. Lay the print onto it, 
and, covering it with a piece of clean paper, 
rub it down both back and front, until smooth 
and fast. TThen thoroughly dry, varnish with 
white copal varnish. 

6408. Varnish to Imitate Ground 
Glass. Dissolve 90 grains saudarac and 20 
grains mastic in 2 ounces washed methylated 
ether, and add, in small quantities, sufficient 
benzine to make it dry with a suitable grain, 
too little making the varnish too transparent, 
and excess making it crapy. The quantity of 
benzine required depends upon its quality, 
from I ounce to li ounces or even more; but 
the best results are got with a medium qual- 
ity. It is important to use pure washed 
ether, free from spirit. 

6409. Xylol, the New Remedy for 
Small-Pox. Xylol, xylene, or ethyl-ben- 
zine, as it has been respectively called, is one 
of the hydrocarbons formed from coal-tar 
naphtha. It was first procured by Hugo 
Miiller, but its nitro-compound had previously 
been discovered by "Warren De la Rue, in 
1856. Coal-tar naphtha is submitted to frac- 
tional distillation until the part which, boils 
at 141*^ is separated ; this is submitted to the 
action of fuming sulphuric acid, which dis- 
solves the xylol and leaves the other hydro- 
carbons. The xylol is then separated by 
distillation from this mixture. Xylol is said 
to have been used by Dr. Zuelzer, the Senior 
Physician at the Charite Hospital at Berlin, 
with great success in cases of small-pox. The 
theory of its action would appear to be that 
xylol is taken up by the blood, and acts as a 
disinfectant. Its boiling point is variously 
stated at 139'^ to 140^^. The specimens ex- 
amined by the writer generally C(n'nmenced 
to boil at about 135°. The specific gravity 
was .866. It is said that the purity of xylol 
is of importance, but there is no very ready 
method for testing its purity. It should be 
soluble in fuming sulphuric acid, but it is not 
soluble in the ordinary sulphuric acid of the 
Pharmacopoiia. It has a faint odor something 
like benzole, and an aromatic taste. The 
doses are 3 to 5 drops for children ; 10 to 15 
drops for adults, every hour to every 3 hours. 
It is quite harmless in reasonable doses. In 
Berlin it is given in capsules. As it is very 
insoluble, the best method of giving it would 
be in an emulsion of almonds. {Tichhorne.) 



6410. To Examine Wells or Chim- 
neys. In case the bottom of a well needs 
examining, hold a mirror in such a position as 
to reflect the sun's rays in the water, so that 
anything floating on the surface can then be 
plainly seen. If the contents of the well are 
not turbid, the smallest object on the bottom 
can also be distinguished. In this way objects 
dropped in wells of 60 feet in depth, and 
which contained more than 20 feet of water, 
have been traced and recovered. When the 
objects are small, or a minute examination of 
the bottom is required, an opera-glass may be 
used. If the top of the well is not exposed 
to sunlight, a mirror may be placed outside, 
even at a great distance, to reflect the light 
over its top, where a second mirror may reflect 
it downward. Letting a lamp, candle, or lan- 
tern down gives by no means as successful a 
result, as the light is very weak compared 
with sunlight, and its glare, even when the 
eyes are shaded from its direct rays, prevents 
distinct vision. The method of employing 
two mirrors, one outside reflecting the solar 
rays in a room, and a second small mirror in. 
its path to reflect these rays into a dark cav- 
ity, is employed by physicians, for the exam- 
ination of cavities of the body ; for instance, 
to explore the tympanum in the human ear, 
the throat, etc. To examine a straight chim- 
ney a piece of looking-glass is to be held, in- 
clined at an angle of 45°, in the hole in the 
chimney wall, into which the stove-pipe is to 
go, or in the open fireplace. If the observer 
can see the light of the sky, he will also see 
the whole interior of the chimney, and any 
obstruction in the same. As most chimneys 
are straight, the top will be clearly visible. 

6411. To Clean Furniture. Mix to- 
gether 1 pint cold drawn linseed oil, 1 pint 
best vinegar, and I pint spirits of wine. Dip 
a soft cloth into the mixture and rub over the 
furniture, and then wipe thoroughly with a 
clean soft cloth. Always shake the mixture 
before using. We do not know any article 
for cleaning furniture equal to this. {Trent.) 

6412. To Wash Ladies' Summer 
Suits. Summer suits are nearly all made of 
white or bufl" linen, pique, cambric or mus- 
lin, and the art of preserving the new appear- 
ance after washing is a matter of the greatest 
importance. In the first place, the water 
should be tepid, the soap should not be allow- 
ed to touch the fabric ; it should be washed 
and rinsed quickly, turned upon the wrong 
side, and hung in the shade to dry, and when 
starched (in thin- boiled, but not boiling 
starch) should be folded in sheets or towels, 
and ironed upon the wrong side, as soon as 
possible. Linen should be washed in water 
in which hay or a quart-bag of bran has been 
boiled. This last will be found to answer for 
starch as well, and is excellent for print 
dresses of all kinds ; a handful of salt is also 
very useful to set the colors of light cambrics 
and dotted lawns; and a little beefs gall will 
not only set, but brighten, yellow and purple 
tints, and has a good effect upon green. Xo 
soda, or other washing compound should on 
anv account be used. 

6413. To Dissolve Wool Out of 
Mixed Fabrics. Boil the rags in a mixture 
of 1 part nitric acid and 10 water, or a little 
stronger. The cotton fibre, after drying, can 



564r 



MISCELLANEOUS RECEIPTS 



be shaken out as dust in a willowing machine, 
leaving th6 wool behind ready lor dyeing. 
This is the plan adopted in England and 
Grermany for making " extract/' and is used 
for mixing with wool in many manufactures. 
This prepared wool, however, will be found to 
have lost, to a great extent, its felting prop- 
erty. 

6414. Javelle Water. Many persons 
keep on hand a supply of Javelle water, small 
quantities of which are suflBcient to render 
the most soiled linen perfectly white. It is 
prepared by taking 4 pounds sal-soda to 1 
pound chloride of lime in 1 gallon water. Put 
the sal-soda into a vessel over the fire, add 1 
gallon boiling water ; let it boil for 10 or 15 
minutes, then add the chloride of lime by 
throwing it, free from lumps, into the soda 
water. When cold, pour into a jug or large 
bottle and cork tightly. "Where it is desirable 
to have a larger quantity, the following mix- 
ture can be taken : Stir 5 pounds chloride of 
lime into 2 pails warm water; dissolve 10 
pounds glauber salt (sulphate of soda) in 1 
pail water ; also 4 pounds sal-soda in 1 pail 
water. The contents of the 4 pails can be 
poured together and kept in any suitable 
tight vessel. Such a quantity as the above 
ought to last a long time, as a dipperful of it 
would bleach a large quantity of linen or 
other goods. The materials are cheap, and 
the mixture easily made. {See No. 4787.) 

6415. To Detect Blood-stains. It is 
said by Professor Bloxam, of London, that a 
mixture of tincture of guaiacum and a solu- 
tion of peroxide of hydrogen in ether produces 
instantly, with blood or blood stains, a beau- 
tiful tint of blue. He had taken a single lint 
fibre, on which was a stain of blood scarcely 
perceptible, that had been made twenty years 
before, and he found that the test produced 
immediately the characteristic blue color, 
which was easily detected on a microscopic 
examination. {See No. 4393.) 

6416. Artificial Honey. Put 10 pounds 
white sugar in 2 quarts water, and gradually 
heat it, stirring it occasionally until brought 
to the boiling point. Then remove from the 
fire and add 1 pound real honey. "When half 
cooled, add ^ pound more honey, and, when 
only blood warm, add another i pound honey. 
When nearly cold, add 10 drops good essence 
of peppermint. This makes 16 pounds in aU 
of a very good sweetening. Its flavor can be 
varied to the liking by adding more or less 
peppermint essence. CSee Nos. 1572, ^c.) 



6417. Grape Champagne. Gather th© 

grapes when they are just turning, or about 
half ripe ; pound them in a tub, and to every 
quart of pounded fruit add 2 quarts water. 
Let it stand in the mash-tub for 14 days, then 
draw it off, and to every gallon of liquor add 
3 pounds loaf sugar. "When the sugar is dis- 
solved, cask it ; and, after it has done work- 
ing, bring it down. In 6 months it should be 
bottled, and the corks tied down or wired. 
This produces a domestic real champagne, 
in no way inferior to the genuine imported 
article. 

6418. Imitation White Frontignac 
Wine. Boil 18 pounds white powdered 
sugar, with 6 gallons water, and the whites of 
2 eggs well beaten ; then skim it, and put in 
i peck elder flower from the tree that bears 
white berries ; do not keep them on the fire. 
When nearly cold, stir it, and put in 6 spoon- 
fuls lemon juice, 4 or 5 of yeast, and beat well 
into the liquor; stir it every day; put 6 
pounds best raisins, stoned, into the cask, and 
tun the wine. Stop it close, and bottle in 6 
months. When well kept, this wine is an 
excellent imitation of Frontignac. 

6419. Imitation Red Frontignac 
Wine. This is made in the same manner, 
and with the same ingredients as the white 
wine {see No. 6418), except that dark elder- 
flowers are used instead of white. 

6420. Cure for Fever and Ague and 
Intermittent Fever. Take 40 grains sul- 
phate of quinine, 30 grains powdered liquor- 
ice, and 10 grains gum myrrh. Make into 40 
pills. Take 2 pills every 2 hours for the first 
24 hours; 2 pills every 4 hours for the second 
24 hours ; and the remainder, 1 at night on 
going to bed, and 1 inthemorning, first thing. 
This performs an efiectual cure if the direc- 
tions are imjjUcitly followed. {Trent.) 

6421. To Remove Tar or Pitch from 
the Skin. Mix together pulverized extract 
of liquorice, and oil of aniseed to the consist- 
ency of thick cream ; rub it on the part thor- 
oughly with the hand, then wash off" with soap 
and warm soft water. 

6422. To Remove Tar, &c., from 
Glass. It is not easy to remove tar, pitch, 
Yenice turpentine, and other sticky substances 
from the graduated glasses used for measuring 
them. A mixture formed of the same ingre- 
dients as in the last receipt, combines with 
the sticky matter so completely as to allow of 
the whole being rubbed off dry and clean with 
a piece of cotton. 



INDEX 



In the compilation of this Index, especial pains iiave been taken to economize space m mneb as possible, 
without impairing its usefulness for ready reference. With this end in view, classification of items has been 
largely resorted to ; so that, in many cases, a single entry wUl embrace several receipts, varying in number 
from two or three to twenty or more. 

Some discretion is, therefore, advisable in searching the Index for any desired receipt. If, for instance, 
it is required to find out " How to put out a fire in a Chimney." it wUl naturally be found under " Chimney," 
the object to be operated upon. Again: in searching for some preparation of a compound body, "Solution 
of Citrate of Magnesia," for instance, it would be found under "Citrate of Magnesia," the principal ingredi- 
ent, and not under " Magnesia," which, although its base, is an entirely difi'erent substance. 

Proprietary preparations and processes will be found only under the name of the inventors; thus, 
•'Braiidreths Pills" are indexed under "Brandreth," and not under the head of "Pills;" this latter heading 
including only such as have no such distinctive designation. This is done to avoid needless repetition, and 
thereby save space. 



ABE — ACI 

Abemethy's PiUs. 5183 

Absinthe, to make 797, <fec. 

Absolute Alcohol, to obtain. ..1441 
6368. 

Absorbents 5678, 5684 

Abstinence as a cure for Dis- 
ease 5894 

Acacia-Flower Water, to distill 1072 

Acetates 3889 

Acetate of Alumina 4258 

Acetate of Ammonia 4218 

Acetate of Ammonia, Solution 

of 5143 

Acetate of Amvl 4302 

Acetate of BarVta 4232 

Acetate of Cobalt 42.33 

Acetate of Copper 4088 

Acetate of Ethyl 4291, 42C9 

Acetate of Iron 4159 

Acetate of Lead 4101 

Acetate of Lead, Lotion of 4824 

Acetate of Lead, Solution of. .4775 

Acetate of Morphia 42C7 

Acetate of Morphia, Solution of 4770 

Acetate of Potassa 4180 

Acetate of Soda 4206 

Acetic Acid 3889 

Acetic Acid, Anhydrous 3894 

Acetic Acid, Camphorated 3895 

Acetic Acid. Commercial 3889 

Acetic Acid, Dilute . 3890 

Acetic Acid, Glacial or Hydra- 
ted 3891 

Acetic Acid, Pure 3893 

Acetic Acid, Strong, from Vine- 
gar 3896 

Acetic Acid, Tabic of Percent- 
ages of 3897 

Acetic Acid, Tests for the Pu- 
rity of 3899 

Acetic Acid, Tests for the 

Strength of 72, &c. 

Acetic Acid, to concentrate.. 3898 
Acetic Acid. Weight of, to find 70 

Acetic Ether 4291, Sec. 

Acetic Perfumes 1088 

Acetiraetrv 69, &.e. 

Aceto.Carbolic Solution 4799 

Acetous Fermentation 16, 867 

Acid, Free, Test for 4394 

Acid Poisons, Antidotes for. . .5897 
5911. 

Acid Preparations of Tin 107 

Acid Stains, to remove from 

Garments, &c 366, &c. 

Acidimeters 82 

Acidimetry 78, &c. 

Acidity in Beer, to correct 868 

Acidity in Wine, to remedy... 753 



ACI — ALC , 

Acidity in Wine, to test 760 

Acids,"see xame of Acid. 

Acids, Cement to resist 2232 

Acids, Eff'ect of, on Colors 361 

Acids, General Classification 

of 3853, &c. 

Acids, Precautions in Testing. 71 
Acids, Table of Eqiiivalents of . 81 
Acids, to test the Strength of. . 79 
Aconite Leaves, Fluid Extract 

of 4574 

Aconite Leaves. Tincture of.. 4481 
Aconite Hoot, FluidExtractof.4575 

Aconite Ptoot, Tincture of 4482 

Aconitine Ointment 4984 

Adelaide-Purple Dye for Cot- 
tons 171, &c. 

Adhesive for Leather Belts 6232 

Adhesive EesiuPlaster 5046 

Adulterations, see article 

ADULTERATED. 

.^olian Harps, to construct 6200 

Aerated Lemonade 906 

Aerated Waters 4430, &c. 

Age, to impart apparent, to 

Beer 875 

Ague, Fever and, Remedies for 5579 

&c.. 6420. 
Air, see Atmosphere. 
Aitkin's Compomad Svrup of 

Iron *. 4648 

Aix-la-Chapelle Water 4463 

Ajutage of Fountains 6233 

Alabaster 2020 

Alabaster. Cement for... 2160, 2177 

Alabaster, Imitation 2020 

Alabaster, to cast 2031 

Alabaster, to clean 2034 

Alabaster, to dress with wax. .2023 
Alabaster, to engrave or etch 

on 2021 

Alabaster, to harden 2022, 2025 

Alabaster, to polish 2030 

Alabaster, to render durable . . .2024 

Alabaster, to stain 2029 

Albumen 4346 

Albumen. Tests for 4348 

Albumenized Paper for Photo- 
graphy 3132, 3178 

Albuminous Size 1953 

Alcohol 1435, <tc. 

Alcohol. Absolute 1441, 6368 

Alcohol, AmyUc 1440 

Alcohol, Dilute, officinal 1437 

Alcohol, Officinal 1438 

Alcohol, Proof 1436 

Alcohol, Pules for the treatment 

of 1449, &c. 

I Alcohol, Stronger, officinal 1439 



ALC — ALK 

Alcohol. Tables of Percentage 
of 55, &c. 

Alcohol, Table comparing the 

Weight and Volume of 57 

Alcohol, to ascertain the Cost of 1450 

Alcohol, to deodorize 1446 

Alcohol, to dilute 1451 

Alcohol, to filter 144^ 

Alcohol, to find the Percentage 

of 1452 

Alcohol, to free from Fusel OH. 1445 
Alcohol, to increase theStrength 

of 1443 

Alcohol, to preserve with 1632 

Alcohol, to raise the proof of. .1454 
1459, &c. 

Alcohol, to raise low-proof 1463 

Alcohol, to reduce low-proof. . . 1462 
Alcohol, to reduce the proof of 1453 

1455, &c. 
Alcohol, to reduce the Strength 60 
Alcohol, to test the Puritv of- . . 1444 
Alcohol, to test the Strength of 1448 
Alcohol Vinegar, to improve. . . 1743 

Alcohol Vinegar, to make 1741 

Alcoholate of Poses 1017 

Alcoholic Extracts, to prepare. 44 

Alcoholic Fermentatiou 16 

y Jcoholic Solution 29 

Alcoholized Sulphiu-ic Acid... 4741 
Alcoholmeters. see Hydrome- 
ters and Areometers. 

Alcoholmetry 53, &c. 

Aldehvd-ammonia 4307 

Aldehvde 2557, 4303 

Ale, Bitter Balls for : 870 

Ale, Fining for 871 

Ale, to brew 856, &c. 

Ale, to clarify 873 

Ale, to fine 747 

Alkali-Blue Dye 2606 

Alkali, Caustic, to test 584, &c. 

Alkali Stains, to remove from 

Gai-ments, &c ytS 

Alkali Stiffening for Hats 336 

Alkalies 3973, <fcc. 

Alkalies, Effect of on Colors.. 361 
Alkalies, Tabic of Equivalents 

of 80 

Alkalies, to find the Strength of 84 

Alkalimeters 82 

Alkalimetry 83 

Alkaline Metals, Amalgams of 3546 
Alkaline Poisons. Antidotes for 5901 

Alkaline Syrup of Rhubarb 4675 

Alkaline Waters, Aerated 4432 

Alkaloids 3996, &c. 

Alkaloids, Tests to distinguish 4023 
Alkaloids, to obtain 4022 



^66 ALK— AMA 



AMA — ANI 



ANI — ANT 



Alkanet-Ked Color 2630 

Allcock's Porous Plaster 5275 

Allen's Nerve and Bone Lini- 
ment 5224 

Allison's Tobacco Ointment.. 5290 

Allspice, Essence of 952 

Allspice, Essential Oil of 1465 

Allspice, Eluid Extract of 4579 

Alloxan 4224 

Alloy, Expansion 3454 

Alloy,Eluid 3455 

Alloy of the Government Stan- 
dard Measures 3434 

Alloys 3347, &c. 

Allovs for Dentists' Moulds 3435 &c. 
Alloys, French, for Forks, &C..3427 

Alloys, Fusible 3456 

Alloys of Aluminum 3429 

Alloys of Copper 3348, 3437 

Alloys of Gold 3398, &c. 

Alloys of Lead 3419, 3426 

Alloys of Quicksilver. »be Amal- 
gams. 

Alloys of $=i^Var 3404, &c. 

Alloys of ^eel 3423 

Alloys of Tin 3421, 3426 

Alloys of Tin and Lead, melting 

heat of 3459 

Alloys of Zinc 3424 

Alloys, Test for Copper in 3241 

Alloys, to separate Copper from3246 

Almond and Honey Paste 1134 

Almond Extract 1033 

Almond Paste 1123 

Almond Paste, Bitter 1124 

Almond Soap 557, 592 

Almond "Water, Bitter 4755 

Almonds, Bitter, Essential Oil 

of 1465 

Almonds, Bitter, Test for Essen- 
tial Oil of 1479 

Almonds, Emulsion of... 1140, 1155 

Almonds, Essence of 943 

Almonds, Oil of non-poisonous 1512 

Aloes and Assafoetida PUls 4901 

Aloes and Myrrh PiUs 4902 

Aloes and Myrrh, Tincture of. 4538 

Aloes, Essential Oil of 1 465 

AloesPiUs 4900 

Aloes, Tincture of 4537 

Alpaca Dresses, to wash 485 

Alteratives 5161, &c. 

Alterative, Dandelion 5164 

Alterative Pills 4&06, 5162, 5166 

Alterative, Rheumatic 5535 

Alterative Syrup 51 63 

Alum 4256 

Alum, Ammonio-ferric 4738 

Alum, Lotion of. Compound.. .4821 

Alum Plumb 114 

Alum Poultice 5033 

Alum, Roche 4256 

Alum, Solution of, Compound. 4772 

Alum, to test 115 

Alumina, Acetate of 4258 

Alumina, Hydrate of 4257 

Alumina, Sidphate of 4259 

Aluminized Chai'coal 1730 

Aluminum 3330 

Aluminum, Alloys of 3429 

Aluminum, Solder for 3520, 3522 

Aluminum, to electroplate with.3749 

Aluminum, to frost 3332 

Aluminum, to polish 3331 

Aluminum, to solder 3521 

Amalgams 3532, &c. 

Amalgam, Copper 3543 

Amalgam for Anatomical Pre- 
parations 3547 

Amalgam for Dentists 3549, &c. 

Amalgam for Electrical Ma- 
chines 3539, &c. 

Amalgam for Silvering MiiTors3535 

3538, 3545 
Amalgam for Varnishing Plas- 
ter Casts 3548 

Amalgam, Gold 3533 

Amalgam, Gold, to gild with.. 3534 

Amalgam, Silver 3535 

Amalgam, Tin 3542 

Amalgam, Tin and Cadmium.. 3544 

Amalgam, Varnishers' 2953 

Amalgam, Zinc 3539 



Amalgamating Fluid 3555 

Amaude, Pate de, au Miel 1134 

Amandine, Colored 1 120 

Amandine, Glycerine 1119 

Amandine, to make 1117 

Amandine, to use 11 18 

Amazon Bitters 817 

Amber, Cement for 2176 

Amber OH -Varnishes 2879, &c. 

Amber Spirit -Varnish 2930 

Amber, to dissolve 2929 

Ambergris and Musk, Oil of.. .1237' 

Ambergris, Essence of 959, 963 

Ambergris, Oil of 1227, 1240 

Ambergris, Tincture of. . . 963,.''^'^. 

Ambergi'is, to test ^391' 

Amber, Eau Eoyale de 994 

Ambrette, Eau or Esprit de 995 

Ambrette, Essence of 968 

Ajnbrosia Syrup 1422 

American Blight on Trees, to 

remedy 1844 

American "Weights and Mea- 
sures 5935, &c. 

Amethyst, Imitation 2356, 2441 

Amethyst Foil 2456 

Amianthus 4371 

Ammonia 3981, 4067 

Ammonia, Acetate of 4218 

Ammonia, Antiseptic solution 

of 1654 

Ammonia, Aromatic Spirit of. 1094 
Ammonia, Carbonates of. .4219, &c. 

Ammonia, Cyanate of 4323 

Ammonia, Hydrosulphate of. .1203 
Ammonia, Hydrosulphuretof--1203 

Ammonia, Muriate of 4222 

Ammonia Poison, Antidote for. 5901 

Ammonia, Purpurate of 4224 

Ammonia, Sulphate of 4223 

Ammonia, Sulphm'etted Hydro- 
sulphate of 5353 

Ammonia, to obtain 3982 

Ammoniacal Eau de Lavande 1097 
Ammoniacal Lavender "Water. 1098 
Ammoniacal Ointment.. 4944, 5477 
Ammoniated Cologne "Water.. 1096 

Ammoniated Perfumes 1095 

Ammoniated Tinctures 35 

Ammonio-chloride of Mercury .4140 
Ammouio-chloride of Platinum 3334 
4086 

Ammonio-chloride of Zinc 4110 

Ammonio-citrate of Iron 4162 

Ammonio-ferric Alum 4738 

Ammonio-nitrate of Silver, So- 
lution of 4773 

Ammonio - pyrophosphate of 

Iron 4737 

Ammonio-sulphate of Copper. .4090 
Ammonio-sulphate of Copper, 

Solution of 4790 

Ammonium, Bromide of 4227 

Ammonium, Hydi'osulphuretof 4228 

Ammonium, Iodide of 4225 

Ammonium, Sulphocyanide of. 4226 

Ammonium, Sulphuret of 4228 

Ammoniuret of Gold 3725 

Amyl 4301 

Amyl, Acetate of 4302 

Amyl, Valerianate of 4303 

Amylic Alcohol 1440 

Anaesthetics 4271 

Angesthetic, Dental 5433 

Anatomical Preparations, Am- 
algam for 3547 

Anatomical Preparations, Solu- 
tions for 1651, &c. 

Anderson's PHls 5326 

Anderson's Scott's Pills 5180 

Angelica "Water, to distill 1071, 1073 

Angelot's Gum Lotion 5461 

Angelot's Pastils for the Breath 5462 

Anglo-German Gilding 3587 

Angostm'a Bitters 816 

Aniline Black Varnish 2943 

Aniline Colors 2552, &c. 

Aniline Colors, effects of impm'C 

Alcohol on 2559 

Aniline Colors, soluble in water 2558 

Aniline Colors, to remove 2565 

Aniline Colors, to remove Sugar 
from 2562 



Aniline Colors, to test for Sup-^ir 
in 25« 

Aniline Colors, to test the qual- 
ity of. 2560 

Aniline, difficulty in Dyeing 

Cotton with 2570 

Aniline Dyes 332, &c., 2552, &c. 

Aniline Dyes, Directiona for 

using 2563 

Aniline Dyes for Ivory 1993 

Aniline Dyes, Mordants for 2567 

Aniline Dyes, to distinguish... 2564 

Aniline Inks 2497 

A rilSne Marking Ink 2511 

ja.niline Stains, to remove from 

the Hands 2566 

Aniline Varnishes, Transparent 2942 
Animal Charcoal, to prepare.. 1752 

Animal Fats 1518, &c. 

Animal Fats, Eancid, to restore HSO- 
Animal Fats, to preserve. 1491, 1515 

Animal Fats, to purify 1517 

Animal Fibre, to detect in Mix- 
ed Fabrics 294 

Animal Substances, to silver. . .3625 
Animals, Antiseptic for pre- 
serving 1668 

Animals, K'oxious, to destroy.. 1900 
Animals, Preparation for stuff- 
ing 166T 

Animals, Solutions to preserve. 1651 
Animals, to banish Fleas from. 1913 

Animals, to embalm 1666 

Anise, Essential Oil of 1465 

Anise, Green, to distill... 1071, 1073. 

Aniseed Cordial 780 

Anisette Cordial 770, 778, 802 

Ankle, Sprained, treatment of. 5495 

Annealing 2 

Annotto Dye for Cottons 159 

A nnotto. Purified 2621 

Annotto, Solution of. 2622 

Annotto, to prepare 95 

Anode of a Battery 3667 

Anodynes 5130 

Anodyne Balsam 5098, 5209 

Anodyne Cigars 5133 

Anodyne Fomentation 5156 

Anodyne. Hofimann's 474J> 

Anodyne Lotion 4817, 4819 

Anodyne Necklaces 5259 

Anodyne Ointment 4983 

Anodyne Plaster 5048 

Anodyne Powder 5131 

Anodyne Substitute for Opium 5132 

Antacids 5678, 5684 

Antacid Tincture 5444 

Anthelmintics .5641 

An ti- attrition Composition 1547 

Anti-bilious Pills 5174, 4907 

Anti-catarrh Elixir 5447 

Anti-chill Pills 4908- 

Antichlor 1719 

Antidotes for Poisons 5895, &c. 

Anti-ferments 762, &c. 

Anti-friction Compositions 1539, &c. 

Antimonoid 3530 

Antimony 3339 

Antimony, Antidotes for 590O 

Antimony, Butter of 4131 

Antimony, Cldoride of 4131 

Antimony, Commercial 3343 

Antimony, Ethiops of 4126 

Antimony, Flowers of 4127 

Antimony, Fulminating 2131 

Antimony, Glass of 2370 

Antimony, Liver of 4128 

Antimony, Oxide of 4130 

Antimony, Oxysulphuret of 5467 

Antimony, Potassio-tartrate of 4129 
Antimony, Sulphuret of. .4132, &c. 

Antimony, Tests for 3340, 3341 

Antimony, Metallic, to obtain 3:M2 

Antipsoric Lotion 4850 

Antique Bronze 3788 

Antiscorbutic Dentifrice 1306 

Antiseptic for preserving Birds, 

&c 1668 

Antiseptic Solutions 1651, &c. 

Antispasmodics 5568 

Ants, Black, to destroy 1848 

Ants, Black, to disperse U)09 

Ants, Red, to exterminate 1910 



ANT — ARO 



ARO — AZU 



BAB— BAR 



567 



Ants, to keep from Trees 1847 

Aperient Electnary 5153 

Aperient Elixir 5446 

Aperient PiUs 4909 

Aperient Solution 5272 

Aphides on Plants, to destroy .1845 

Apoplexy, Trea^^^ient of 5763 

Apothecaries' Graduated Mea- 
sures 5957 

Apothecaries Measui'e 5956 

Apothecaries Measure com- 
pared with Apothecaries 

Weight 5962 

Apothecaries Measure com- 
pared with Avoirduuois 

Weight :...5960 

Apothecaries Measure com- 
pared with Imperial 5958 

Apothecaries Measure com- 
pared with Metrical 5959 

Apothecaries Measure com- 
pared with Troy Weight 5961 

Apothecaries Measure, Impe- 
rial 6032 

Apothecai'ies Measure, Impe- 
rial, in Litres 6033 

Apothecaries Measure, Impe- 
rial, in U. States Measure 6039 

Apothecaries Weight 5951 

Apothecaries Weight compared 

with Apothecaries Measui'e 5954 
Apothecaries Weight compared 

with Avoirdupois 5952 

Apothecaries Weight compared 

with Metrical. 5955 

Apothecaries Weight compared 

with Troy 5953 

Apple and Mulberry TTine 728 

Apple Essence, Artificial 1054 

Apple, Essential Oil of 1469 

Apple wSvrup 1412 

Apple Wine 728 

Apples, to can 1636 

Apples, to dry 1640 

Apples, to keep fresh 1641 

Apples, to press, for Cider 833 

Apricot Essence, Artificial 1047 

Apricot Wine 728 

Aqua Fortis 3872 

Aqua Marine, Imitation. .2359, 2442 

Aqua Eegia 3725, 3879 

Aquaria, Artificial Sea- Water 

for 6198 

Aquaria, Cement for 2163, &c. 

Aqueous Extracts, to prepare. 44 

Aqueous Fusion 19 

A queous Solution 29 

Architects' Plans, to tint 2646 

Area of various Figures, to find 5987 

Areca-^N'ut Charcoal ] 302 

Areca-Nut Tooth Paste 1307 

Areca-Xut Tooth Powder 1301 

Areometers, various.. .64, 6155, &c. 
Ares, compared with Square 

Measure 6026 

Argentine Flowers 4127 

Argol 4197 

Arkansas Oil Stones, see Hones. 

Armenian Cement 2] 52 

Arnica, Extract of 4751 

Arnica Flowers, Liniment of. .4864 

Arnica Flowers, Lotion of 4837 

Arnica Flowers. Tincture of. .4509 

Arnica Fomentation 5159 

Arnica, Tincture of 4483 

Arnolds Writing Fluid 2485 

Aroma of Cordials 812 

Aromatic Acid Tincture 4731 

Aromatic Bitters 826 

.^^jomatie Blackberry Syrup... 4685 

Aromatic Candles .' 1 351 

Aromatic Elixir 4727 

Aromatic Ginger Wine 738 

Aromatic Mixture of Iron 4712 

Aromatic Spii'it of Ammonia. 1094 

Aromatic Spirits. Distilled 941 

Aromatic Sulphuric Acid 4740 

Aromatic Tonic Mixture 5124 

Aromatic Vinegar 1083, &c. 

Aj-omatic Waters. Distilled . ..1070 
Aromatic Watersfrom Essenccsl081 
Aromatic Waters fi'om Essen- 
tial Oils 1080 



Aromatic Wine 5348 

Aromatics, proportions of, for 

Perfumed Waters 1071 

Arrack 1435 

Arrack, Imitation 700, &c. 

Arrack-Pimch Syrup 1377 

Arrow-root, to test 4:^2 

Arseniates 3938 

Arsenic 3935 

Arsenic Acid 3938 

Arsenic Acid, Tests for 3940 

Arsenic Acid, to obtain 3039 

Arsenic and Mercury Solution. 4777 

Arsenic, Antidotes for 5898 

Arsenic, Self-detecting 3936 

Arsenic, Tersulphuret of 4356 

Arsenic, Tests tor 3937 

Arsenic, to detect, in Colored 

Paper 4383 

Arsenical Soap 1669, &c. 

Arsenical Solution 5298, 4804 

Arsenious Acid, see Arsenic. 

Arsenites 3935 

Arscnite of Copper 2711 

Arsenito of Potassa, Solution of 4804 
Artificial, see article EvnTAXED.-^ 

Artus' Vinegar Process 1742 

Asbestos 4371 

Asbestos, Platinated 3335 

Aseptin for Preserving Meat. .1616 
AshweU's Injection for Obstruct- 
ed Menstruation 5717 

Asiatic Black Ink 2466 

Asplialt for Walks 6354 

AssafoBtida and Aloes Pills 4901 

Assafoetida Pills 4903 

Assafoetida, Syrup of, Com- 
pound '. 4686 

Assafoetida, Tincture of 4480 

Assay of Gold 3187. 3190, &c. 

Assay of Silver 3187, 3206, &c. 

Assayers' Gold Weights 5948 

Assay ers' Silver Weights 5949 

Asses' Milk, Imitation 6289 

Asthma 5593 

Asthma, to alleviate 5594 

Asthma, Treatment of 5624 

Astringents 5555 

Astringent for Leech Bites 5567 

Astringent Lotion 4817, 4820 

Astringent Ointment 4979 

Atkinson's Infant Preserva- 
tive 5352 

Atlee's Cough Mixture 5610 

Atlee's Scarlet-fever Remedy.. 5755 
Atlee's Whooping-Cough Cure. 5634 

Atler's Nipple Wash 5393 

Atmosphere 4072 

Atmosphere, Pressure of the.. 6] 21 
Atmosphere, to test the Purity 

of the 1711, 4073 

Atropine Paper 5807 

Attar of Poses 975 

Aureolin Yellow 2708 

Auric Chloride 4075 

Aurine Aniline Dye 2595 

Aureus Chloride 4075 

Austrian Cholera Specific 5670 

Austrian Money 6075 

Austrian Weights and Mea- 
sures 6076, &c. 

Autographic Ink 2551 

Aventiirine, Imitation .2443 

Avoirdupois Weight 5935 

Avoirdupois Weiglit compared 

with Apothecaries Measure .. 5937 
Avoirdupois Weight compared 

■«-ith Apothecaries Weight.. 5938 
Avoirdupois Weight compared 

with Troy 5936 

Avoirdupois Weight in Metri- 
cal Weight 5941 

Avoirdupois Weight, Decimal 

Equivalents of 59.39 

Axle Grease 1541, ] 545 

Ayer's Cherry Pectoral 5267 

Ayer's Sarsaparilla 5328 

Ayer's Wild-Cherry Expector- 
ant 5266 

Azote, see Nitrogen. 

Azure Blue, or Smalts 2687 

Azure Paste for the Skin 1114 



Babbitt's Metal 3348, 3445 

Babington's Antiseptic Solu- 
tion ] 655 

Bacher's Tonic Pills 5216 

Back, Sprained, Treatment of. .5496 

Back, Weak, Remedy for 5543 

Baden Water, Aerated 4437 

Badigeon 2158 

Ba^ndres de Lnchon Water. . .4464 

Bailey's Itch Ointment 5243 

Baillie's Pills 5197 

Bain Marie 3 

Bait to catch Rats, &c 1895 

Bakers' Itch, Remedy for 5484 

Bakers' Itch, Ointment for 4957 

Bakers' Yeast 1811 , &c. 

Baking Powder 1817, &c. 

Balard's Waterproofing for 

Clothing 1559 

Balaruc Water 4461 

Baldness, French Remedy for. .1285 

Baldness, Oil for 1251 

Baldness, Pomade for 1279, &c. 

Baldness, Washes for 1177, &c. 

Baldwin's Phosphonis 4334 

Balloons, Buoyant Power of 4045 

Balloons, Hydrogen Gas for 4044 

Balloons, to mend 6392 

Balloons, Varnish for 2948 

Balls, Bitter, for Beer 870 

Balls, Scouring 34U. 374 

BaUs, Soap 574, &c. 

Balm, Chilblain 5839 

Balm of Gilead, Decoction of. .4534 

Balm of Gilead, Factitious 5111 

Balm of Gilead, Lotion of 4838 

Balm of Gilead, Tincture of . . .4535 

Balm of Rakasiri 51 15 

Balm of the Innocents 5419 

Balm of Thousand Flowers. . - .1327 

Balm, Spirit of. Compound 988 

Balm Tea 51 35 

Balm Water, todistiU. . . .1071, 1073 

Balsams .5090, &c. 

Balsam, Anodyne 5098, .5209 

Balsam Apple, Oil of 4752 

Balsam, Canada 5100 

Balsam, Canada, Factitious 5101 

Balsam for Freckles 1122 

Balsam, Friar's 5091 

Balsam, Glycerine .5095 

Balsam, Hofiman's Life 5112 

Balsam, Loeatelle's 5306 

Balsam, Nervine 5113, 5340 

Balsam of Copaiba, Factitious 5104 
Balsam of Copaiba, Reduced . . . 5106 
Balsam of Copaiba, Syrup of. . .4667 
Balsam of Copaiba, 'Test for... 5107 

Balsam, Cough 5442 

Balsam of Honey .. .1121, 5093, 5231 

Balsam of Horehound 5092, 5367 

Balsam of Malta 5116 

Balsam of Peru, Factitious 5108 

Balsam of Peru Liniment 5400 

Balsam of Peru, Oil of 1241 

Balsam of Peru Pomade 3262 

Balsam of Peru, Reduced 5109 

Balsam of Peru, Test for 51 10 

Balsam of Peru, Tincture of... 1020 

Balsam of Rakasiri 5115 

Balsam of Sulphur 5114 

Balsam of Tolu 5102 

Balsam of Tolu, Test for 5103 

Balsam of Tolu, Tincture of. . . 1022 

Balsam of Tui'pentine 5099. 

Balsam, Pectoral .5097 

Balsam, Persian .5419 

Balsam, Pulmonary 5601 

Balsam, Riga .5094 

Balsam, Thibault's 5305 

Balsam, Turlington's 5304 

Balsam, Universal Wound 5096 

Banana Syrup 1413 

Bancroft's Process for Refining 

OHs . . . . 1495 

Bandoline, Rose 11 95 

Bank-Note Cement 2308 

Bank of England Notes, to tell 

Genuine 6396 

Banks, to cover, with Grass... 1886 

Barber's Itch, Remedy for 5487 

Barber's Shampoo Mixture 1188 

Barclay's AntibiUous Pills 5174 



568 BAR— BED 



BED — BEN 



BER— BLA 



Bar^.ges "Water 44fi4 ' 

BariUa 4208 ! 

Barium, Chloride of 4234 j 

Barium, Oxides of 4235 | 

Barium, Sulphiiret of 4237 ', 

Bark. Essential Oil of 46 ^ 

Bariev Water 4767 

Barm' for Making Yeast 1808 

Barometer, Chemical 6184 

Barometer, Phial 6183 

Barometer, Use of the 6132 

Barrel, to cleanse a Foul 854 

Barrel. Weio-ht of a, of Various 

Goods. ..^ 5f)73 

Barrel's Tndinn Liniment 5223 

Barrels, Brandy, to plaster 695 

Barrels, Cider, to cleanse 841 

Barrels, Leaky, Wax Putty for. 696 
Barrels, to give an appearance 

of Age to 693 

Barrels, to make, tie:ht 855, 2195 

Bartletfs Citrate of Bismuth. .4813 

Barwood Dye for Cottons 154 

Barwood Spirit 110 

Baryta 3985 

BarVta, Acetate of 4232 

Baryta, Antidote for 5899 

Baryta, Carbonate of 4233 

Baiyta, Hydrated 3987 

Baryta, Manganate of 4229 

Baryta, Muriate of 4234 

Baryta, l^itrate of 4230 

Baiyta, Pure 3986 

Baryta, Sulphate of 2697, 4231 

Bartya, Test for 3988 

Barytes 2697, &c. I 

Barytic Photographic Solution 3181 
3183 

Basilicon Ointments 4964, &c. 

Basil Vinegar 1771 

Bases for Artificial Gems .2421, &c. 

Baskets, Varnish for 2939 

Eatavia Arrack, Imitation. 700, &'.;. 

Bateman's Itch Ointment 5'"j39 j 

Bateman's Pectoral Drops 5193 

Bsteman's Sidphur Wash 5274 1 

Bf tes' Anodyne Balsam 5209 I 

Bi tes' Eye-Water 5803 

B' th for "Dyeing 93 

B »th. Hot Air 5597 

B tths for Manipulations 3, &c. 

B iths used in Photography, siee 
Photogkaphy. 

H ith-Tubs, Iron, to paint 6219 

Bittley's Senna Powder 5232 

Battley's Solution of Opiimi 5412 

Baume, Degrees of. reduced to 

Specific Gravity 62, 65, 66 

Baum^, Specific Gravity re- 
duced to Degrees of 67 

B Aimie"s Areometers 64, 6165 

Baume's Hydi-ometers 61, 63 

Baume's Saccharometer 64 

Baume de la Mecque 5111 

Baume de Vie 5365 

Baume du Commandeur 5419 

Baume Nerval 5113 

Bay-Eum, Cheap 1029 

B ay -Rum, Imitation 1027 

Bay-Rum, West Indian 1028 

Beach's Black Plaster 5285 

Beach's Cure for White Swell- 
ing 5777 

iJeach's Healing Salve 5285 

Beach's Neutralizing Cordial. .5394 
Beach's Remedy for Tape- 
Worm 5651 

Beach's Remedy for Ulcers 5507 

Bean-Flower Water, to distUl 1072 

Beans, to shell, easily 6230 

Beans, Vanilla, to grind 6279 

Bearberrv Leaves, Fluid Ex- i 

tract of. 4577 ' 

T^ear's Grease 1277 

Bear's Grease, Imitation 1278 

Beaute. Eau de 1146 

Beaute, Pomade de 1164 

Beck's Areometers 6158, 6159 

Becoeur's Antiseptic Soaps 1669 

Beconi's Antiseptic Soap 1672 

Becquerel's Gout Pills. ..5187, 5318 

Bed-Bugs, Poison for 1905 

Bed-Bugs, to destroy 1903, &c. 



Eeddoe's Pills ^44 ' 

Beds. Garden, to Protect, from 

Snails 1862 

Bed-Sores, Lotion for 5820 

Bed-Sores, to relieve 5821 

Bed-Sores, Treatment of 5503 

Bed-Tick, to clean 468 

Beechwood Mahogany 2848 

Beef and Iron, Wine of 4722 

Beef Brine for Curing 1608 i 

Beef, Essence of 4616, &c. 

Beef, Extract of. Liebig's 1609 

Beef Marrow, Factitious 6367 

Beef. Pickle for Curing.. 1603, 1608 

Beef, Sportsman's 1617 

Beef Tallow 523 

Beef, to can 161 1 

Beef, to cure 1607, 1 618 

Beef, to dry 1599 

Beef to dry-salt or pickle 1602 

Beef, to ke"ep, fresh 1612 

Beef, to preserve, Pelouze's Pro- 
cess 1605 

Beef, to preserve with Vine- 
gar 1610 

Beef to salt by Injection 1 604 

Beef, to smoke . . 1600 

Beer, Acidity in. to Correct. .. 868 

Beer, Bitter Balls for 870 

Beer, Bucking 880 

Beer, Finings for 871 

Beer, Flatness in. to remedy. . . 878 

Beer, Flavoring for 864 

Beer, Foxing 880 

Beer, Frosted, to recover 879 \ 

Beer, Genu an Bouquet for 882 i 

Beer, Ginger. 893, &c. i 

Beer, Ginger, Powders for 902 | 

Beer, Heading for 876 I 

Beer, Hot Drops for 891 ! 

Beer, Lemon 899 i 

Beer, Mustiness in, to remedy. 877 j 

Beer, Ottawa Root 892 j 

Beer, Root 889 

Beer, Ropiness in. to remedy. . . 881 | 

Beer, Sprine, to brew 883 

Beer, Spruce 884, &c. 

Beer, Spruce, Powders for 903 

Beer, to brew 856, &c. : 

Beer, to impart Age to 875 j 

Beer, to ripen 874 

Beer, to test, for Clarification.. 872 \ 

Beer, Wahoo Root 898 

Bees, Stings of, to cure 5927 

Beeswax 1577 

Beeswax, Imitation 1588 

Beeswax, Tests for 1582 

Beeswax, to bleach 1578 

Beeswax, to color 1586 

Beeswax, to refine 1584 

Beet-root Pickles 1797 

Beet -roots, to preserve 1888 

Belffian Burnishing Powder 3223 

BeUMetal 3348, 3441 

Belladonna, Fluid Extract of.. 4574 

Belladonna Liniment 4871, 4879 

Belladonna, Lotion of 4849 

Belladonna, Oil of 4752 

Belladonna Ointment ... 4943, 4983 

Belladonna, Tincture of 4484 

Bell's Gargle 5307, 5609 

Beltina:, Cements for joining. . .2245 

Bengal Chutney 1762 

Bengal Lights.*- 2071 

Benzine 1527, 4320 

Benzine, Cautions about 346 

Benzine, Cement to resist 2161 

Benzine Insect Exterminator. 1908 

Benzine Stains, to remove 6344 

Benzine, to Deodorize 1533 

Benzine, to extinguish Bumingl532 

Benzine, to i^urify 440 

Benzoates, 3942 

Benzoate of Ethyl 4294 

Benzoated Lard 1521 

Benzoic Acid 3942 

Benzoic Acid, Anhydrous .3944 

Benzoic Acid, to ol)tain 3943 

Benzoin, Oil of 1242 

Benzoin Pomade 1262 

Benzoin, Tincture of 1019, 4567 

Benzole 4321 

to test 4400 



Berberine 4016 

Bergamot. Essence of 969 

Bergamot, Oil of 1227 

Bergamot. Oil of. Test for 1480 

Bergamotte, Esprit de 999 

Berlandt's Mode of Bleaching 

Oils 1507 

Berlin Water -Proof Cloth 1560 

Bernard and Delarue's Litho- 
graphic Crayons 1958 

Berries, to can 1636 

Bertholds Chilblain Wash 5295 

Beryl. Iinitntion 2442 

Bessimer's Varnish 2894 

Beton Coie-iiet 2223 

Betton's British Oil 5361 

Beyran's Syphilitic Wash . 5349 

Bibron's Rattlesnake Antidote. 5924 
Bicarbonates. see Carbonates. 
Bichlorides, see Chlorides. 

Biett's Solution 5298 

Biliousness. Treatment of 5768 

Binacetates, see Acetates. 

Binding Knot, to tie a 6263 

Bingham's Washing Mixture. . 480 
Binoxides, see 0-XIDES. 
Birch's Constipation Pills 5454, 5456 
Birch's Acidimeter and Alkali- 
meter 82 

Bird Lime 6383 

Bird's Blue Fire 2070 

Bird's Mode of Silvering on 

Glass 3620 

Birds, Antiseptic to preserve.. 1668 
Birds, Canary, to clear of Lice 1921 

Birds, Mocking. Food for 6191 

Birds, preparation for Stufl&ng.l667 

Birds, Singing, Food for 6191 

Bh'ds, to embalm 1666 

Birthmarks, to remove 5886 

Bismarck-Brown Aniline Dye 2591 

Bismuth 3344 

Bismuth, Caution against, as a 

Cosmetic 1111 

Bismuth, Elixir of 5420 

Bismuth, Nitrates of 4134 

Bismuth, Oxide of 4136 

Bismuth, Tests for the Salts of. 4137 

Bismuth, to purify 3345 

Bismuth, to Separate from 

Lead 3346 

Bissextile or Leap Year 6064 

Bistre 2692 

Bisulphides and Bisulphnrets, 

see Sulphurets. 
Bites of Snakes, Insects, &c.. to 

cure 5924, &c. 

Bitter Almond Paste 1124 

Bitter Almond Water, to dis- 
till 1071, 1073 

Bitter Almonds, Essence of 943 

Bitter Almonds, Essential Oil 

of 1465 

Bitter Almonds, Extract of 1033 

Bitter Almonds, Extract of, 

non-poisonous 1034 

Bitter Balls for Beer 870 

Bitter Essence 4615 

Bittern 4261 

Bittern, Brewers' 869 

Bitters, Filter for 830 

Bitters, made with Essences. . . 829 
Bitters, General Receipts for. . 814 
Bitter-Sweet. Fluid Extract of 4577 

Bitter-Sweet Ointment 4977 

Black Ants, to Destroy 1848 

Black Ants, to Disperse 1909 

Black Aniline Dyes 2571, &c. 

Black-Boards, Coating for 6405 

Black-Boards. Imitation Slate 

for ...6353 

Black Bronzes 3778, 3798, 3819 

Black. Bnmswick 2899 

Black Cement 2183. 2193 

Black Characters, to write, with 

Water. 1977 

Black Cherry Essence, Artifi- 
cial 1030 

Black Cherry Water, to dis- 
till 1071, lor^ 

Black Cohosh, Extract of. 4750 

Black Cohosh, Fluid Extract of 4575 
4592 



BLA— BLO 



BLO—BON 



BON — BRA 



569 



Black Coliosl), Svrnp of 4654 

Black Cohosh, Tincture of 4514 

Black Copying Papsr 1926, 1948 

Black Crape, to renovate 462 

Black Crape, to clean 470 

Black Cnrrant Wine 728 

Black Draught 5212 

Black Dves for Cottons. . . .138, &c. 
Black Dves for Cotton and Wool 

mixed 288 

Black Dve for Cotton Silk and 

Wool mixed 291, &c. 

Black Dv e for Ivory 1983 

Black Dve for Silk. . . .2.34, (fee, 304 
Black Dve for Silk and Wool 

mixed* 290 

Black Dye for the Hair.. 1201, (fee, 1 

6401 
Black Dve for the Hair, to use. 1202 

Black Dve for Wood 2825 

Black Dve for Woolens.192, 222, 303 

Black Dve for Veneers 2838 i 

Black Enamels 2380, 2398 . 

Black Eve, to treat 5792 ' 

Black Eye. to cure 5793 j 

Black for Miniature Painters.. 2716 j 
Black from Colorless Liquids. .262? | 

Black Gliizing 2410 

Black Inks 2461, &c., 6406 

Black Lace Veils, to Wash 466 

Black Lacquer for Metals 3064, 3387 

Black Lead 4164 

Black Lead, to bronze with ... 3774 
Black Lustre-Color for Paper, . \ 

&c 2626! 

Black OUs 4872 

Black Pepper, Extract of 1039 

Black Pepper. Oil of 4752 

Black Pigments 2716, 2719 

Black Plaster 5285 

Black Powder for the Hair. . . .1103 

Black Precipitate 4143 

Black Reviver 458 

Black Salve 4971, 5007 

Black Sealinc:-Wax 2316 

Black, Shoemaker's 3080 

Black Silks, to clean 457 

Black SUks, to restore 4.59 

Black Sprinkle for Books 3127 

Black Stain for Wood 2843, 2850 

2864 

Black Varnish, Aniline 2943 

Black Varnish for Iron Work 2900 
Black, Vinegar, for Book-Bind- 
ers 3118 

Black AVal uit, see Walkct 

Black W as)}. Mercurial 4847 

Blackberrv Brandv 782, &c. 

Blackberry Coixiial 5658 

Blackberry Boot, Fluid Extract 

of 4577 

Blackberry Syrup, Aromatic. .4685 
Blackberry Svrup for Soda Wa- 
ter ' 1404 

Blackben-v Wine 731 

Blacking: 'for Boots 3086, &c. 

Blacking for Harness 3081, &c. 

Blacking for Harness, to apply. 3085 
Bladder, Spasm of the, to re- 
lieve 5741 

Bladders, to prepare 6239 

Blakes Toothache Cure 5868 

Blancards Pills. Imitation 4930 

Bland's Ferruginous Pills 5474 

Blanquette 4208 

Bliisting Powders 2144 

Bleaching, General Beceipts .1714 
Bleaching, see article to be 
bleachM 

Bleaching Liquor 104, 4786 

Bleaching Powder 4245 

Bleeding in Vines, to remedv .1878 

Bleeding, to Stop 5.^56, &c. ! 

Blessed Tliistle, Fluid Extract of 4604 i 

Blessed Thistle Tea 5140 j 

Blight on Trees, to Eemedy . . 1844, 
1846 I 

Blistered Steel 3274 I 

Blistering Plaster 5053, .5087 

Blistering Tissue 5083 

Blisters, Management of 5088 : 

Blisters, to Camphorate 5089 

Block Tin 3314 



Blonde Hair Dye "1206 

Blonde Powder for the Hair. . .1 104 
Blond. White Silk, to clean... 472 

Blood Cement 2172 

Blood Maker and Purifier 5165 

Blood Root. Fluid Extract of.. 4.575 
Blood Root for Consumption. . .5(515 

Blood Root Svrup 5602, 5614 

Blood Root, Tincture of 4524 

Blood, Spitting of 5563, 5564 

Blood Stains, to detect 6415 

Blood Stains, to remove 6341 

Blood. Test for the Presence of. 4393 

Bloom of Roses 1113 

Bloom Succar 1368 

Blue Aniline Dves. . . 333, 2569, 2602 

Blue Bengal Lights 2071, &c. 

Blue Cement 2188 

Blue Characters, to Write, with 

Water 1978, 1980 

Blue Copving Paper 1948 

Blue Dye for Cottons. .130, &c., 160 

Blue Dve for Feathers 325 

Blue Dve for Ivory 1^87 

Blue Dve for Silks. . . .254, &e., 306 
2610, '2633 

Blue Dve for Wood 2829 

Blue Dye for Woolens. 204, 217, 232 
259, 2609 

Blue Enamels 2381 

Blue Fires 2069, 2073, 2108 

Blue Flag, Tincture of 4518 

Blue Fluid for making Ink 2486 

Blue Foil for Gems 2450 

Blue Glazing 2409 

Blue Inks 2478, &c. 

Blue Lights 2701, 2118 

Blue Liquid Colors. .2615, &c., 2628 
2641. 

Blue Pigments 2674, 2687 

Blue Pills 4919 

Blue Sealins: Wax 2322 

Blue Sprinkle for Books 3103 

Blue Stain for Glass 2361 

Blue Stain for Marble 2037 

Blue Stain for Wood 2862 

Blue Stone 120 

Blue Vat, to prepare a 119 

Blue Verditer 2688 

Blue Vitriol 120, 4096 

Blue Vitriol. Antidotes for 5904 

Bluing for Clothes 2617, &c. 

Board's, to clean 426 

Boards, to extract Ink from... 392 
Boards, to extract Stains from. 394 
Boards, to find the Content of 5986 

Boards, to scour 427 

Boat-bottoms, Paint for 2771 

Bochet's Syrup 5360 

Bodv, Proportions of the Hu- 
man 6148 

Bodv Vermin, to destroy! ^^^^ 

Boeli's Cephalic Snuff 5334 

Boettger's Electric Amalgam. .3.541 

Boettger's Imitation Gems 2445 

Boettger's Method of Gilding 

on Glass 3597 

Boettger's Test for Silver-plat- 
ed Ware 3714 

Bohemian Crown Glass 2344 

Bohemian Tube Glass 2340 

Boiled Oil 2727, <fec. 

Boiled Oil for Varnish 2872 

Boiled Oil for Zinc Paint 2734 

Boiled Oil, to brighten 2732 

Boiler Incrustations, to pre- 
vent 2329, <fcc. 

Boilers. Paint for 2774 

Boilers, to blow out 6225 

Boiling Heat of Liqmds 6, 6133 

Boiling Heat of Saturated Solu- 
tions 7 

BoiUot's Purification of Fats.. 1.517 

Boils, Treatment of 5553 

Boitards Anisette 802 

Boker's Bitters 818 

Bond's Compound Mixture of 

Iron 5248 

Bone Fat 526 

Bone Fat, to obtain 1525 

Bone Fat. to purify .5:J4 

Bone Liniment 4893 

Bone, to dve, see Ivoby 



' Bone, to silver 3fl28 

Bones of Living Ajiimals, &c., 

to dye the 2008 

Bones, to dissolve for Manure. 1820 
Bones, to obtain Gelatine from 4366 

Bonesct, Fluid Extract of 4576 

Boneset Tea 5139 

Bonnamy's Dentifrice 5469 

Bonnes St. Sauveur Water 4464 

Bonnets, Straw, to bleach 1720 

Bonnets, Straw, to clean 511 

Bookbinders' India-rubber Glue 2293 
Bookbiuders' Marbles and Sprin- 
kles 3102, &c. 

Bookbinders' Varnish 2933 

Bookbinders' Vinegar Black.. 31 18 
Book Covers, to marble.. 3109, <fcc. 

Book Edges, to gild 3574 

Book Edges, to sprinkle. . .3102, &c. 
Book Muslin, to clear-starch- . . 501 

Boot Powder 6319 

Booth's Axle Grease 1541 

Boots, Blacking for 3086, &c. 

Boots, French Varnish for 29.57 

Boots, Jet for 3079 

Boots, Sportmen's Composition 

for 3071 

Boots, to make, waterproof .3069 

Boots, White Jean, to clean. . . 4.53 

Boots, White Kid, to clean 454 

Borate of Mancanese 2735 

Borax and Mvrrh Mouth Wash 1333 

Borax, Glass 'of 2377 

Borax, Honey of 4695 

Borax Lotion for Sore Gums.. 1156 
Borax Lotion, Glycerinated ..1157 
1162, 54.52. 

Borax Ointment 4951 

Borax Ointment, Glycerinated 4952 

Borax, Test for 4389 

Botot, Eau 1324 

Bottle-Green Dve for Cottons.. 166 
Bottlo-Grecn D've for Silks 279, &c. 
Bottle-Green Dve for Woolens. 226 

Bottle Cocktail" 924 

Bottle Wax for Sealing Corlis. . 929 

Bottles, Castor, to clean 433 

Bottles, Cements for sealing... 2238 

Bottles, Glass for 2341 

Bottles, Gold Labels for 2493 

Bottles, to clean 431 

Bottles, to cork 930 

Bottles, to cut 2369 

Bottles, to fill, with Boiling Li- 
quids 4617 

Bouchardat's Gaseous Pirrga- 

tive 4476 

Boudault's Pepsine Pills 5459 

Boudet's Depilatorv 1221 

Boudet's Test for Olive Oil 1500 

Boueries G369 

Bougies, Hollow 6371, 6372 

Bouquet de Millefleurs 1065 

Bouquet de Rondeletia 1066 

Bouquet, Eau de 992 

Bouquet, Esprit de 1002 

Bouquet, GeiTnan, for Beer 882 

Bouquet, Jockey Club 1064 

Bouquet Soap .' 564 

Bom-bon WhislvCy, Imitation . . 683 
Bourbon Whislvcy, to improve . 6293 
Bouycr's Syrop de Lait lodique 5332 

Bowlme Knot, to tie a 6265 

Boxes, Capacity of 6004, 6005 

Boxwood, to stain, brown 2865 

Boyle's Fuming Liquor 5353 

Boyle's Lute for Retorts 2266 

Bracomiot's Artificial Wax 1589 

Bracoimot's Glue of Caseine. . .2294 

Brainard's Sohition .5453 

Bran, Prepared, for the Hair.. 1102 
Brandish's Alkaline Solution . .53.57 
Brandish's Alkaline Tincture of 

Rhubarb 5356 

Brandreth's Pills 5391 

Brandv 1435 

Brandy Bittei-s 823 

Brandv, Blackberry 782, &c. 

Brandv, Cherry 784, 791 

Brandy, Filter for 17, 709 

Brandv, Imitation 676, &c. 

Brandy, Peach 785, 813 

Brandy, Peppermint 787 



570 



BRA — BRI 



BRT — BUt 



BUL — CAL 



Brandy Punch 919 

Brandy Smash. 925 

Brass 3358, &c. 

Brass, Bronzing for. 3779, 3784, 3797 

Brass, Dark 3368 

Brass expanding equally with 

Iron 3376 

Brass, Flux for soldering. 3480, 3531 

Brass for Buttons 3364 

Brass for Castings 3367 

Brass for Gilding 3369 

Brass for Solder 3371 

:Brass for Turning 3372 

Brass for Wire 3375 

Brass, Inlaid, to clean 3392 

Brass, Inlaid, to polish 2982 

IBrass, Lacquers for.. 3048, &c., 3387 

Brass, MaUeable 3360 

Brass Ornaments, to color 3396 

Brass, Pale ...3365, 3369, 3372, 3375 

Brass, Paste for cleaning 3391 

Brass, Red 3363, 3370, 3373 

Brass, Sheet 3348 

Brass Solder 3512 

Brass, Solder for 3507 &c., 3517 

Brass, Solutions for cleaning. . .3393 

Brass, to clean 3389 

Brass, to clean, for lacquering 3047 
Brass, to coat Metal with 3633, &e. 

Brass, to coat, with Silver 3607 

Brass, to coat, with Tin. .3644, 3648 

Brass, to coat, with Zinc 3651 

Brass, to coat Zinc with 3655 

Brass, to color. 3188, 3313, 3379, 3382 
&c., 3390 

Brass, to electroplate on 3711 

Brass, to electroplate with 3752, 3769 

Brass, to frost 3381 

Brass, to give an English look to 3388 
Brass, to give a Moire appear- 
ance 3386 

Brass, to harden 3377 

Brass, to lacquer 3046 

Brass, to platinize 3658 

Brass, to protect 3765 

Brass, to put a Black rinish on 3380 

Brass, to scour 3271 

Brass, to soften 3378 

Brass Solution, to prepare 3768 

Brass, TeUow 3348, 3359 

Brazilian Money 6115 

Brazilian AYeights and Mea- 
sures 6116, &c. 

Brazing or Hard Soldering 3488 

Bread Poultice 5019 

Breast, Sore, Salve for... 4985, 4990 
5290 

Breast, Sore, "Wash for 5393 

Breath, Bad, Pastils for.. 1336, 5405 
5462. 

Breath, Bad, to cure 5859, &c. 

Breath, Odor of Onions in, to 

correct 5864 

Breath, Shortness of, remedy for 5764 
Breath, Shortness of, to relieve. 5765 

Brewers' Teast 1808 

Brewing 856 

Brewing, Important Hints on.. 863 

Brewing, Utensils for 857 

Brewing Utensils, to clean 6333 

Brick-dust Cement 6386 

Bricks, Number required for 

Paving 6000 

Bricks, Number required for 

Walls 6000 

Bricks, Pvcd Wash for 2809 

Brickwork, Measurement of. . .6000 
Brickwork, to pencil or point. .2792 
Brighton Chalybeate Water. ..4469 
Brimstone, see Sulphuu. 

Briony Hoot, to dry 1889 

Bristles, to dye 662 

Bristles, to stiffen 661 

Britannia Metal 3348, 3417 

Britannia Metal, Plus for sol- 
dering 3484 

Britannia Metal, to clean 3418 

Britannia Metal, to electroplate 

on 3711 

British OU 5361 

British Weights and Measures 6031 
Brittleness of Metals, Compara- 
tive 3357 



Brix's Areometers 61 61 , 61 62 

Brocatelle Curtains, to clean. . . 450 
Brodie's Decoction of Pareira 

Brava 5310 

Brodie's Liniment 5282 

Brodum's Nervous Cordial 5351 

Bromides 4261 

Bromide of Ammonium 4227 

Bromide of Ammonium, EUxir 

of 5374 

Bron.ide of Cadmium 4263 

Bromide of Potassium 4198 

Bromide of Potassium.Elixir of 5449 

Bromide of Sodium 421 4 

Bromide of Sodium, Elixir of. .5215 
Bromide Paper, Photographic . 3172 

Bromine 4261 

Bronchitis, Treatment of 5596 

Bronze 3348 

Bronze-Brown Dye for Silks. . . 245 

Bronze, Eontainemoreau's 3448 

Bronze, Lacquer for 3056 

Bronze, Phosphorus 3447 

Bronze, to clean 3450 

Bronze, to electroplate on 3711 

Bronzing 3771, &c. 

Bronzing Fluids, 3817, &c., 3778, &c. 
3797, &c. 

Bronzing for Wood 3825 

Bronzing on Brass. .3779. 3784, 3797 
Bronzing on Copper. 3772, 3780, 3787 
3807, &c. 

Bronzing on Iron Castings 3791 

Bronzing on Medals 3772, &c. 

Bronzing on Paper 3793 

Bronzing on Plaster Casts 3824 

Bronzing on Porcelain 3827 

Bronzing on Tin Castings 3790 

Bronzing on Zinc 3797, 3811 

Bronzing Powders ..3794, &c., 3823 

Bronzing, Surface 3792 

Brooms, Management of 6217 

Brown Bronzes 3772, 3798, &c 

Brown Aniline Dye 2589, &c. 

Bro"WTi Characters, to write, with 

W^ater 1979 

Browu Dye for Cotton 142, &c. 

Brovm Dye for Cotton and Wool 289 

Brown Dye for Silks 241 , &c. 

Brown Dye for Woolens 193, 223, 305 

Brown Enamels 2382 

Brown Glazing 2411 

Brown Hair-Dyes 1211 

Brown Marking-Ink 2513 

Brown Mixture 5588 

Brown Ointment 4959 

Brown Sealing Wax 2321 

Brown Sprinkle for Bookbind- 
ers 3105, 3125 

Brown Stain for Boxwood 2865 

Brown Stain for Glass 2361 

Brown Stain for Marble 2038 

Brown Stain for Wood . . .2853, &c. 
Brown Tint for Iron and Steel. 3262 

Brown Windsor Soap 559 

Brown's Bronchial Troches 5256 

Brown's Cholera Mixture 5668 

Brucine, or Brueia 4006 

Bruises in Eumiture, to take 

out 6221 

Bruises, Liniment for 4887, 4889 

Bruises, Poultice for 5025 

Brunswick Black 2899 

Brunswick Green 2710 

Brushes, Feather, to make 6203 

Brushes for Varnishing 2977 

Brushes. Hair, to clean 416 

Brust Thee 5425 

Bryant & James' Blacking 3092, 3099 

Buchner's Carmine Ink 2501 

Buchner's Soluble Soda Glass. .2819 
Buchu, Fluid Extract of. .4574 4590 
Buchu Leaves, Infusion and 

Tincture of 5150 

Bucking Beer 880 

Buff Dye for Cottons 135, &c. 

Buff Dye for Silks 269 

Bugs, Croton, to destroy 1902 

Bugs. Bed, see Bed-Bdgs. 
Building Materials, Heat Con- 
ducting Power of 6125 

Building-Stone, Artificial 2219 

Buisson's Purple of Cassius...2723 



Bulbous Roots, to dry 1889 

Bulbous Roots, to preserve. . . . I8g3 
Bumstead's Gonorrhoea Injec- 
tion 5438 

Bungs, Leaky, Wax Putty for. 696 

Bunions, to cure .5857 

Bunsen's Rapid Filtration 3838 

Burdock, Muid Extract of 4596 

Burdocks, to destroy 1868 

Biu-gundy -Pitch Plaster 5053 

Burnet Vinegar 1771 

Burnett's Antiseptic Solution.. 1656 
Burnett's Disinfecting Fluid. . .1695 

Burns, Blistered, to cure 5520 

Burns caused by Gunpowder, 

to treat 5523 

Burns, Liniment for 5472 

Burns, Recent, to cure 5514 

Burns, Slight, to cure 5.520 

Burns, Superficial, to cure 5515 

Bums and Scalds, Treatment of 5512 

Bushel, Imperial 5970 

Bushel, New York 5970 

Bushel, Weight of a, of various 

Goods 5974 

Bushel, Winchester 5970 

Bushes, Blight in, to remove. . .1846 
Bushes, Insects on, to remove. .1845 

Bussang Water 4470 

Busts, to Bronze 3781 

Busts, to electrotype 3693 

Butter of Antimony 4131 

Butter, Rancid, to restore 1625 

Butter, Strong, to improve 1626 

Butter, to color 2635 

Butter, to preserve 1620, &c. 

Butter, to prevent Rancidity in 1493 

Butternut PiUs 5319 

Buttons, Brass for 3364 

Buttons, Copper, to silver-coat .3609 

Butyrates 3966 

Butyrate of Ethyl 4293 

Butyrate of Magnesia 4260 

Butyric Acid 3966 

Butyric Ether 4293 

Butyrine 4260 

Cabbage, Pickled 1799 

Cabinet Varnish 2893 

Cacao Pomade for the Lips, 

&c 1136 

Cachou Aromatise 1336 

Cadet's Syrup of Ipecacuanha. 4682 

Cadmium AUoys, Dentists' 3438 

Cadmium Amalgam, Dentists' 3544, 
3549. 

Cadmium, Bromide of 4263 

Cadmium, Iodide of 4262 

Cadmium Red 2700 

Cadmium YeUow 2638,2700 

Caffeine 4010 

Caieput Liniment 4890 

Calamine 5761 

Calamus, Essential Oil of 1465 

Calcination 3849 

Calcium, Chloride of 4246 

Calendar, Universal 6147 

Calcium, Chloride of, to pre- 
pare 4247 

Calicoes, to clean 448 

California Brown Dye for Silks 241 

California Champagne 720 

Calisaya and Bismuth, Elixir 

of 4700, 4701 

Calisaya and Protoxide of Iron, 

Elixir of 4702 

Calisaya, Elixir of 4698, 4701 

Calisaya, Feri'ophosphorated 
Elixir of 4699, 4700 

Salisaya, Fluid Extract of 4577 
aUsaya, Precipitated Extract 

of 4706 

Calisaya, Wine of 4711, 

Callot's Eau Forte, or Etching 

Fluid 2962 

Calomel 4138 

Calomel, Antidotes for 5902 

Calomel PDls 4920 

Calomel, Use of, in ChoIerB 5673 

Calotype Paper 317C 

Calumba, Infusion of 5121 

Calvert's Tests for Pure 01Js..l496 
Calvetti's Manna Lemonade . . . 5247 



CAM — CAR 



CAR — CAT 



CAT — CHA 



►71 



Cambric, to clear-starch 501 

C'ameUia-Cuttings, to manage. 1831 

Camp- Vinegar 1777 

Campheue 4317 

Camphor 4357 

Camphor Black 271G 

Camphor, Essence of 4611 

Camphor Ice 1132 

Camphor Julep and Drops 4611 

Camphor Liniment 4880 

Camphor Mixture 5387 

Camphor Ointment 4941, 5403 

Camphor, Spirits of 4802 

Camphor, Tincture of 4GU 

Camphor, to pulverize 4358 

Camphor Water 4754, 476G, 4311 

Camphorated Blisters 5089 

Camphorated Chalk 1290 

Camphorated Lotiou 4822, 4344 

Camphorated Oil 48G3 

Canada Balsam 5100 

Canada Balsam, Factitious 5101 

Canada Liniment 5280 

Canada Varnish 2921 

Canary Birds, to clear of Lice. 1921 

Cancer Ointment 5386 

Cancer, Plaster for 5047 

Cancer, Remedy for 5748, 5772 

Candles, Aromatic 1351 

Candles, Home-made 631, &c. 

Candles, Lard 636 

Candles, Scented 1351 

Candles, Tallow for 635 

Candles, Tallow, to harden 637 

Candle- Wicks, to improve 6231 

Candle- Wicks, to make 632 

Candv, Degrees of boUing Sugar 

for 1368 

Candy, Live-Long 5260 

Candy, Molasses 6280 

Candying, to prevent Syrup 

from 1365 

Cane Seats of Chairs, to clean. 419 

Cane. Staining for 2866 

Canella, Fluid Extract of 4579 

Canella Water, to distm.1071, 1073 
Canning, see article to be canned. 
Canning, to expel the Air in. . .1637 
Canning, to insure Success in .1635 

Cantharidal Collodion 4742 

Cantharides Liniment ...4874, 4891 

Cantharides, Oil of 4752 

Cantharides Ointment 5017 

Cantharides Plasma 5010 

Cantharides Plaster 5053 

Cantharides, Tincture of 4539 

Cantharides, Vinegar of 1178 

Canton's Phosphorus 4335 

Canvas, Flexible Paint for 2765 

Canvas, to render Fireproof 1563 

Canvas, to render Waterproof .1561 

Caoutchouc Cement 2257 

Caoutchoucine 2249 

Capaccioui's process for Harden- 
ing Tallow 638 

Capillaire Syrup for Cordials... 1380 

Capsicum, Extract of 1040 

Capsicum, Fluid Extract of 4579 

Capsicum, Oil of 4752 

Capsicum, Syrup of 4670 

Capsicum, Tincture of 4483 

Capsules, Copaiba 5416 

Capsules, Copaiba and Tar 5417 

Capsules, Gelatine 6333 

Caramel 694, 1368 

Caramel, to purify 2632 

Caraway Cordial 769, 789, 6292 

Caraway, Essential Oil of 1465 

Carbolic Acid 3916 

Carbolic Acid, Antidote for.. .5915 
Carbolic Acid as a Disinfect- 
ant 1698 

Carbolic Acid as a Preserva- 
tive 1673 

Carbolic Acid Gargle 5066 

Carbolic Acid Lotion 4835 

Carbolic Acid Paper 1614 

Carbolic Acid Soap 581 

Carbolic Acid Solution 4800 

Carbolic Acid, Test for. . .1647, 3918 

Carbolic Acid, todeodorize 3919 

Carbolic Acid, to obtain 3917 

Carbolic Cerate 4993 



Carbolic Plaster 5061 

Carbolic Salve 4996 

Carbon Ink 2514, 2530 

Carbon, Sulphurets of 4309, fee. 

Carbonates 3913 

Carbonate of Ammonia. . .4219, &c. 
Carbonate of Ammonia, Solu- 
tion 4792 

Carbonate of Baryta 4233 

Carbonate of Cobalt 4252 

Carbonate of Iron, Saccharine. 4 163 

Carbonate of Lead 2693 

Carbonate of Lune Water, Aer- 
ated 4435 

Carbonate of Lithia 4238 

Carbonate of Magnesia 4240 

Carbonate of Potassa 4181, <fcc. 

Carbonate of Soda 4208, &c. 

Carbonate of Soda Solutions, 

Table of 627 

Carbonate of Zinc 4112 

Carbonic Acid 3913, 4063 

Carbonic Acid, Antidotes for. . 5913 

Carbonic Acid, Tests for 3915 

Carbonic Acid, to obtam 3914 

Carbonic Acid AVater 4431 

Carbonic Oxide 4064 

Carbonic Oxide, to obtain 4065 

Carbuncle 5554 

Carbuncle, Imitation Gem 2429 

Carburet of Iron 4164 

Carburetted Hydrogen 4048, &c. 

Cardamom, Fluid Exti'actof. . .4579 
Cardamom, Tincture of.. 1023, 4540 
4568. 

Card- Work, to varnish 2965 

Card- Work, Varnish for 2939 

Carlsbad Water 4438 

Carmes, Eau des 988 

Carminatives 5G87 

Carminative, Dalby's 5172 

Carminative, Dewee's 5250 

Carminative Drops 5689 

Carminative, Murphy's 5388 

Carmine Ink 2501 

Carmine Purple Dye 2629 

Carmine Rouge 1112 

Carmine, to brighten 2679 

Carmine, to make 2677 

Carpets, to clean 444 

Carpets, to preserve 6242 

Carpets, to remove Grease from 358 
Carpets, to remove Oil from. . . 357 

Carpets, to sweep 447 

Carpets, Stair, to preserve G199 

Can-ara Water, Aerated 4435 

Carriage Varnishes 2877 

Carron Oil 5513 

Carrot Poidtice 5024 

CaiTots, to preserve 1888 

Carthamine 2683 

CascariUa Water, to distill 1071, 

Case Hardening 3297, <fcc. 

Caseine Glue 2294 

Casks, Leaky, Wax Putty for. 696 

Casks, to clean 854 

Casks, to prepare, for Cider 839, 854 
Casks, Tarnish for Inside of. . .2970 

Cassia, Essence of 970 

Cassia, OU of 1227 

Cassia Pomade 1262 

Cast Iron, see Iron 
Cast Iron, to coat, with Copper 3635 
Cast Iron, to coat with Zinc . . . 3650 
Cast Steel, see Steel. 

CastUian Tooth-Cream 1311 

Castillon's Powders 5475 

Castings, Brass for 3367 

Castings, German SUver for.... 3411 

Castor Bottles, to wash 433 

Castor Oil, Coloring for G325 

Castor OU Pomade 127G 

Castor Oil, Tincture of 4541 

Ca.stor Oil, to bleach 1504 

Castor Oil, to disguise tho Taste 

of 5888, &.C. 

Castor Oil, to purify 1503 

Castor Oil, to test 1499, 1501 

Cataract, Mixture for 5808 

Catarrh, Treatment of 5586 

Catawba Champagne 719 

Catechu Dyes for Cottons. . .147, 181 
Catechu Ointment 4945 



Catcchti, Tincture of 4547 

Catechu, to prepare, for dyeing 96 

Caterpillars, to drive away 1923 

Cathartic Pills 4917, 5303, 5316 

Cathay, Creme de ii28 

Catheters 6371 

Cathode of a Battery 3667 

Cats, to di-ivo Fleas from 1913 

Catsups 1766, &c. 

Catsups, Cautions to be observ- 
ed in making 1766 

Cattle, Live, Weight of 6127 

Cauliflower, Pickled 1792 

Caustics 5074, &c. 

Caustic Alkali 5357 

Caustic Alkali, to test 584, &c. 

Caustic Black 5330 

Caustic for Corns 5079 

Caustic Iodine 5077 

Caustic Iodine Solution 5422 

Caustic Lint 5076 

Caustic Lye, Soapmakers'..519, 588 

Caustic Lyes, Tables of 629, 630 

Caustic Potash 101, 4192 

Caustic Potash, to test 585 

Caustic Soda 102 

Caustic Soda, to test 585 

Caustic, to apply, to the Ure- 
thra 5737 

Caustic, Vegetable 5075, 5825 

Cauterets Water 4464 

Cayenne Pepper 1789 

Cayenne Pepper and Salt, Infu- 
sion of 5312 

Cazenave's Antiseptic Lotion. .4850 
Cazenave's Lotion of Cyanide of 

Potassium 1158 

Cazenave's Pomade 1280 

Ceilings, Cement far 2171 

Celery, Extract of 1043 

Celery Vinegar 1772 

Celsius' Thermometer 85 

Cements 2151, &c. 

Cement, Colored 2182, &c. 

Cement, Elastic 6391 

Cement for Building Purposes .2173 

2181, 6386. 
Cement for Cracked Iron Pots 6387 

Cement for Glass Letters 6312 

Cement for Sealing Bottles 2239 

Cement, Tooth 5878, &c. 

Cement to resist Sulphuric 

Acid 6311 

Cementation, Steel made by... 3274 
Cementing, see article to be 

joined. 
Cementing, General Directions 

for 2151 

Cenette's Process for Cannine.2678 
Centigrade, Fahrenheit and 

Reaumm' Compared 92 

Centigrade Thermometer 85 

Centigrade, to reduce Fahren- 
heit to 87 

Centigrade, to reduce Reaumur 

to 91 

Centigrade, to reduce, to Fah- 
renheit 86 

Centigrade, to reduce, to Reau- 
mur 90 

Cephalic Snuff 5333, 5334 

Cerates 4931 

Cerates, see Salves 

Cerise AnUine Dye 2578 

Chafing, Remedy for 5819 

Chalk, Camphorated 1290 

Chalk Drawings, to fix 1960 

Chalk Mixture 4747 

Chalk, Precipitated 1291 

Chalk, Prepared 1292 

Chalk, to detect, in MUk 4376 

Chalybeate Waters .. 4467, &c., 4474 

Chameleon Mineral .2637 

Chamomile, Essence of 4613 

Chamomile, Fluid Extract of. .4597 

Chamomile, Oil of 4752 

Chamomile, Svmp of 4678 

Chamomile "NVater, to distill. . . 1071 

1073. 
Champagnat's India-Rubber 

Varnish 2889 

Champagne, Cheap 723, &c. 

Champagne, Grape 6417 



573 CHA — CHI 



CHL — CHR 



CHR — CLA 



Champagne, Home-Made 730 

Champagne, Imitation 713, (fee. 

Champagne, Syrup for 715 

Champagne, to gas 718 

Champagne, to prepare for 

Charging 717 

Champagne-Cider 844, &c. 

Champagne-Cider, Imitation.. 847 

Chandler's Chlorodyne 5204 

Channiug's Mixture 5315 

Chapped Hands, to cure 5822 

Chapman's Copaiba Mixture.. 5263 
Chapman's Peristaltic Persua- 
ders 5320 

Chaps, Borax Lotion for 1157 

Charcoal, Alumenized 1730, 4314 

Charcoal, Animal 1752 

Charcoal, Areca-nut 1302 

Charcoal as an Antiseptic 1648 

Charcoal Crayons 1971 

(;!harcoal. Caution about 1649 

Charcoal Filter 17 

Charcoal for Dentifrice 1317 

Charcoal from Coal Tar 1731 

Charcoal Poultice 5026 

Charcoal, Prepared 1294 

Charcoal, Properties of 1729 

Charcoal, to change the Color of 

Flowers by 1833 

Charcoal Tooth-Paste 1316 

Charta Epispastica 5350 

Chartreuse, Liqueur de la 

Grande 806, 6291 

Chaudet's Springs for Artificial 

Teeth 3406 

C/haussier's Obstetric Ointment 5341 

Chauvet's Anisette. 803 

Cheese, to make 1592, &c. 

Chelsea Pensioner 5302 

Chemic 162, 2616 

Chemical Drying 3842 

Chemical Equivalents 6150, 6151 

Chemical Food 4645 

Chemical Glasses, Cement for. .2237 

Chemical Manipulations 1, 3830 

Chemicals, Miscellaneous 4074 

Chemical Nomenclature 3853 

Chemical Soap 546 

Chemical Washing 3841 

Cheny Boimce 793 

Cherry Brandy 784 

Cherry, CmTant, and Kaspberry 

Wine 728 

Cherry Essence, Artificial 1049 

Cherry Juice 791 

Cherry Laurel Lotion 1161 

Cherry iLaurel Water 1071, 1073 

Cherry Pectoral 5267 

Cherry Syrup 1381 

Cherry Vinegar 1780 

Cherry Wine 728 

Chewing Gum 6317 

Chicory, Test for, in Coffee. . . .4373 

Chilblain 5832 

CMlblain Liniment. 4883, 4891, 5398 

Chilblain Ointment 4934, 5403 

Chilblain, Eemedies for.. .5833, &c. 

Chilblain Wash 5295, 5398, 5401 

Childbirth, Eemedy for After- 
pains 5722 

Children's Heads, to destroy 

Vermin in 1919 

ChUi Vinegar 1776 

Chimneys, to examine 6410 

Chimneys, to put out Fire in. . .6209 
China-Crape Scarfs, to wash.. 465 
China-Ware, see Porcelai:!?. 

Chinese Bronze 3776 

Chinese Cement 2155 

Chinese Depilatory 1222 

Chinese Fire 2055 

Chinese Japanning 3038 

Chinese Marble for Books 3120 

Chinese Money 6110 

Chinese Varnish, Imitation 2923 

Chinese Weights and Measures 6111 

CMnese White Copper 3414 

Chintz, to clean 448 

Chintz, to preserve the Colors of 487 

Chintz, to Wash 492 

Chiretta, Fluid Extract of 4576 

Chiretta Pills 5192 

Chiretta, Tincture of 4516 



Chloral 4276 

Chloral, Hydrate of 4276 

Chloral, Hydrate of, to purify. .4278 

Chlorates 3962 

Chlorate of Potassa.4184, &c., 4856 
Chlorate of Potassa, Caution in 

using 2124 

Cliloric Acid 3963 

Chloric Acid, to obtain 3964 

Chloric Ether 4297 

Chlorides 4069 

Chloride, Auric 4075 

Chloride, Aureus 4075 

Chloride of Antimony 4131 

Chloride of Barium 4234 

Chloride of Barium Solution ..4774 

Chloride of Calcium 4246 

Chloride of Calcium, Solution 

of 4778, 4780 

Chloride of Cobalt 4251 

Chloride of Copper 4097 

Chloride of Ethyl 4290 

Chloride of Gold 3725, 4075 

Chloride of Iron : . .117, 4165 

Chloride of Iron, Tincture of. .4504 
Chloride of Iron, Syrup of. 4660, 4662 
4665. 

Chloride of Lead 4102 

Chloride of Lime 4245 

Chloride of Lime Disinfectant. 1704 
CUoride of Lime, Lotion of . . .4830 
Chloride of Lime, Solution of . .4786 

Chloride of Magnesium 4243 

Chloride of Mercury 4138, &c. 

Chloride of Mercury, Lotion of 1145 
Chloride of Mercury and Am- 
monia 4142 

Chloride of K'ickel 4174 

Chloride of Platinum 3220, 4084, &c. 
Chloride of Potassa, Lotion of. 4832 
Chloride of Potassa, Solution of 4787 

Chloride of Potassiiun 4199 

Chloride of SUver 3214, 3216 

Chloride of Soda, Lotion of 4831 

Chloride of Soda, Solution of . .4788 

Chloride of Sodium 4215 

Chloride of Tin 4123, 4124 

Chloride of Tin, Solution of . . .1653 

Chloride of Zinc 4109, 4111 

Chlorinated Lime 4245 

Chlorinated Poultice 5038 

Chlorinated Soda, Solution of. .4788 

Chlorine 4069 

Chlorine, Ajitidote for 5916 

Chlorine, Tests for 4071 

Chlorine, to obtain 4070 

Chlorodyne 5200, &c. 

Chlorodyne Mixture 5655 

Chloroform 4271 

Cliloroform Elixir 4730 

Chloroform Liniment 4876 

Chloroform Ointment 4982 

Chloroform, Pure 4273 

Chloroform Syrup 4659 

Chlorofonn, Tests for 4275 

Chloroform, to obtain 4272 

Chloroform, to purify 4274 

Chlorurets, see Chlorides. 

Chocolate Dye for Cottons 149 

Chocolate, French 6276 

Chocolate, Plain 6275 

Chocolate, Spanish Aromatic . . 6277 
Chocolate, Spanish AJmond and 

Vanilla 6278 

Chocolate Syrup 1409 

Choke Damp 3913 

Cholagogue 5261, 5396 

Cholera Morbus, see Diarrhcka. 
Cholera, Preventive against.. .5665 
5671. 

Cholera, Eemedies for 5666, &c. 

Cholera, Treatment of . . 5662, &c. 
Christison's Flux for Arsenic. .3469 
Chromate Photographic Solu- 
tion 3182 

Chromatcs 3945 

Chromate of Lead 4104, 4105 

Chromate of Potassa, Ked 4187 

Chromate of Potassa, Eed, Sub- 
stitute for 4188 

Chromate of Potassa, Yellow.. 4186 

Chromatype Paper 3173 

Chrome Dyes for Cottons.. 183, &c. 



Chrome Dyes for Woolens. 221, &c. 

Chrome Green 2715 

Chrome Orange 2707 

Chi'ome Red 2706, 4105 

Chrome Yellow 2705, 4104 

Chromic Acid a945, 3946 

Chromium, Oxide of 2701 

Chrysolite, Imitation 2437 

Churns, to keep, from frothing 6286 

Chutney, Bengal 1762 

Cider, Antiferments for 763, <fec. 

Cider Barrels, to cleanse 841 

Cider Champagne 844, &c. 

Cider, Eules for Making 836, &c. 

Cider, to bottle 843 

Cider, to can 840 

Cider, to clarify 842, 833 

Cider, to fine 747 

Cider, to imitate 847, &c. 

Cider, to keep, sweet 852 

Cider, to make 832 

Cider, to prepare Casks for 839 

Cider, to preserve 835 

Cider Vinegar 1740 

Cider Wine 732 

Cigars, Anodyne 5133 

Cigars, Anti-choleraic 1350 

Cigars, Disinfecting 1350 

Cigars for Hoarseness ... 5617, 5619 
Cigars for Pulmonary Consump- 
tion 5616 

Cigars, to scent 1350 

Cimicifuga Eacemosa, Fluid Ex- 
tract of 4575 

Cimicifuga Eacemosa, Tincture 

of 4514 

Cinchona, Fluid Extract of 4605 

Cinchona, Tincture of 4487, 4544 

Cinchona, Wine of 4710 

Cinchonine or Cinchonia 4002 

Cinchonine, Test for, in Quinine 4029 

Cinnabar 2682 

Cinnamon-Brown Dye for Cot- 
tons 144 

Cinnamon, Essence of 971 

Cinnamon, Essential Oil of 1465 

Cinnamon, Essential OU of. Test 

for 1481 

Cinnamon, Extract of 1036 

Cinnamon, Oil of 1227 

Cinnamon Pomade 1262 

Cinnamon Soap 573 

Cinnamon Syrup 1379 

Cinnamon Water 4756 

Circles, Properties of 612« 

Circles, Segments of, Area of. . 5991 

Circles, Sectors of. Area of 5992 

Circles, to find the Area of 5987, 5988 

Cisterns, Capacity of 6012 

Cisterns, Cement for lining 2181 

Cisterns, to make 6358 

Cisterns, to purify Water in . . 1701 
1712 

Citrates 3932 

Citrate of Bismuth, Solution of. 481 2 
Citrate of Bismuth and Ammo- 
nia, Solution of 4814 

Citrate of Bismuth, Preparation 

of 4813 

Citrate of Iron 4160 

Citrate of Iron, Solution of 4815 

Citrate of Magnesia, Efferves- 
cing 4809, <fec. 

Citrate of Magnesia, Solution 

of 4805 

Citrate of Potassa, Solution of 4808 

Citric Acid- 3932 

Citric Acid, Syrup of 4680 

Citric Acid, Tests for 3934 

Citric Acid, to detect Tartaric 

Acid in 3931 

Citric Acid, to obtain 3933 

Citrine Ointment 4947 

Civet, Essence of 972 

Civet, Oil of 1228 

Claret Punch 921 

Claret-Eed Dye for Woolens... 198 
308 

Claret Stains, to remove 369 

Claret Syrup i423 

Claret, to flavor, with Amber- 
gris 964 

Clarification 17 



CLA — COL 



COL — COX 



CON- 



;op 



573 



Clarifrine, see article to be 
clarifieu 

Clav for Grafting 1882 

Clay for Modeling 6321 

Cleaning, (fcc, General Receipts 

for 337, &c. 

Cleaning or Cleansing, see au- 
Tici.E to be cleaned 

Cleansing in Brewing 862 

Cleveland's Tooth Wash 1331 

Clinker, to remove, from Fire- 
Brick 6241 

Cloaks, to waterproof 1534 

Close's Indestructible Ink 2528 

Cloth, Cements for joining 2245 

Cloth, Cotton, to bleach 125 

Cloth, Cotton, to prepare for 

dveing 124 

Cloth, Emery 1935 

Cloth, Glass 1933 

Cloth Measure 5994 

Cloth, Printed, to clean 452 

Cloth, Stone 1934 

Cloth, to cement, to Metal 2233 

Clotli, to paste, to Wood 2275 

Clotffl, to raise the Kap on 461 

Cloth, to render. Waterproof ..1553 

6313 
Clothes Pins and Lines, to pre- 
serve 6394 

Clothes, to fold, after drying. . . 502 

Clothes, to iron ." 503 

Clothes, to render, Waterproof 1553 

Clothes, Woolen, to clean 442 

Clothes, Woolen, to preserve 

from Moth 654 

Clove-Hitch Knot, to tie a 6264 

Clover, Artificial Manure for .1826 

Cloves, Essential Oil of 14G5 

Cloves, Essential Oil of. Test for 1485 

Cloves, Fluid Extract of 4579 

Cloves, on of 1227 

Clutton's Febrifuge Spirit 5194 

Clutton's Febrifuge Tinctiu-o ..5195 
Coal OU, Crude, see Petroleum. 
Coal Oil, Eefined, see Keuosexe. 

Coal Tar, Charcoal from 1731 

Coathupe's Ink 2484 

Cobalt 4249 

Cobalt, Acetate of 4253 

Cobalt Blue 2690 

Cobalt, Carbonate of 4252 

Cobalt, Chloride of 4251 

Cobalt, Xitrate of 4250 

Cobalt, Peroxide of 4250 

Cobalt, to electroplate with 3766 

Cochineal, Adulteration of 2680 

Cochineal Dyes for Woolens 246, Sec. 
Cochineal Liquid Coloring 2623, <fcc. 

Cocliineal Liquor - 106 

Cociiineal Paste 106 

Cochrane's Cough Medicine ... 5363 
Cockroaches, to drive away... 1923 
Cockroaches, to exterminate . .1901 

Cocktail, Bottled 924 

Cocoa-Xut Oil 527 

Cocoa-Xut Oil Soap 542, 593 

Codeine, or Codeia 4000 

Cod-Liver Oil, Emulsion of 5437 

Cod-Liver Oil Ointment 4975 

Cod-Liver Oil, to dissolve Iod- 
ine in 4328 

Coffee Cream-Syrnp 1433 

Coffee Flavoring for Liquors . . 673 

Coffee, French, to make 6287 

Coffee Syrup for Cordials 1378 

Coffee Svrup for Soda Water . 1418 

Coffee, Test for Chicory in 4373 

Cognac Bitters, French 815 

Cognac Brandy, Imitation 679 

Cognac, Essence of G75 

Cognac OU 14Qi 

Cognac Oil. Test for 677 

Cohobation in Distilling 1466 

Coins, Ancient Roman 60.57 

Coins, Cooper, to preserve 6238 

Coins, Old, to develop Inscrip- 
tions on 6237 

Coins, to clean 3239 

Coins, to keep from Tarnishing 3225 
Coins, to take Moulds of.. 3672, &.c. 

Colchicine 4008 

Colchicum, Fluid Extract of. . .4576 



Colchicum, Opiated Wine of. ..5389 

Colchicum, Tincture of 4.549 

Colcothar 2703, 4154 

Cold, to cure a 5597 

Cold Cream 1125, <fec. 

Cold Feet, Remedy for, atXight 5831 

Cold in the nead,'to cure 5585 

Cold with Cough, to cure 5605 

Cold SOvering 3611 

Colepress's Wine 723 

Colic, Lead or Painters', to 

cure 5692, .5693 

Collier's Wine of Quinine 5199 

Collin's Disinfecting Powder.. 1699 

Collodion, Cantharidal 4742 

Collodion, Flesh Colored 1168 

Collodion for the Skin 1167 

Collodion, Glvcerinated 1169 

Collodion, Gun Cotton for 4743 

Collodion, Morphia 4745 

Collodion, Photographic 3149 

Collodion Pictures, to clean off 3167 

Collodion Plastic Material 2204 

Collodion, Styptic 5559, 5562 

Collodion, to prepare 4744 

Collodion Tarnish 2922 

Collodion Yamish, for Photo- 
graphy 3162 

Colocynth 4554 

Cologne, Essence of 950 

Cologne Tooth-Wash 1329 

Cologne Water 976, (fcc. 

Cologne Water, Ammoniated .1096 
Cologne Water, Concentrated. 950 

Colored Amandine 1120 

Colored Bronzing for Brass. . . .3783 
3797, (fcc. 

Colored Cements 2182, <fcc. 

Colored Fires 2065, (fcc. 

Colored Fires for Illuminations 2066 

2106 
Colored Fires for Indoors. 2119, <fce. 

Colored Fires for Stars 2067 

Colored Flames 2128 

Colored Flashes, Paper for mak- 
ing 2125 

Colored Lights 2112 

Colored Muslins, to wash 486 

Colored Stars 2064 

Coloring for Curafoa 800 

Coloring for Fats 1257 

Coloring for the Hair 1215 

Coloring, see article to be col- 
ored. 

Colors, Aniline 2552, (fee. 

Colors, Effect of Acids and Alka- 
lies on 361 

Colors, Improved Tehicles for. 2724 

Colors, Liquid 2614, (fcc. 

Colors of Fabrics, to preserve. 487, 
491 

Colors, Substantive 93 

Colors, to restore, by Reagents. .362 
Colors used for Marbling Books 3102 
Colpin's India-Rubber Varnish 2952 

Colt's Foot, Essence of 4612 

Columbo, Fluid Extract of 4576 

Columbo, Tincture of 4550 

Combs, to clean 416 

Complexion. Cosmetics for the. 1116 

Composite Soap 545 

Composition for Moulds 3684 

Composition for Ornaments . . .2202 
6234. 

Composition for Rockets 2054 

Composition for Washing 6306 

Composition for Welding. 3.523, <fcc. 
Composition for Wounds on 

Trees 1877, 1879 

Composition Powder for Dys- 
pepsia '- . .5321 

Composts for the Soil 1821 

Compound Tinctures, see Ti>x- 

TCUES. 

Concentrated Infusions 38 

Concentration 8 

Concrete 2205 

Concrete for Floors and Walks 2206 

Condensed Milk 1597, 5470 

Condy's Fluid 5440 

Condy's Solution 1701 

Congress Water, Aerated 4440 

Congreve Matches 2146 



Conine orConia 4018 

Conium, Fluid Extract of 4578 

Conium, Oil of 4752 

Conium, Tincture of 4489 

Conklins Salve 5287 

Constipation, Pills for .54.54. (fcc. 

Consumption, Inhalation for.. 5613 

5616 
Consumption, Pulmonary, Ci- 
gars for .5616 

Consumption, Remedy for Kight- 

sweats in .5787 

Consumption. Treatment of 5612 

Cooley's Black Ink 2464 

Cook'v's Corn Plaster 50G0 

Cooley's Tests for Olive Oil. . . .1500 
Coolev's Waterproofing for 

Cloth 15.55 

Copahine-Mege 5366 

Copaiba and Tar, Capsules of. .5417 
Copaiba, Balsam of. Factitious 5104 
Copail)a, Balsam of. Reduced. .5106 
Copailja, Balsam of, Test for . . 5107 

Copaiba and Pepsine PUls .5457 

Copaiba, Capsules of 5416 

Copaiba Mixture 5263, 5735 

Copaiba PUls 4918 

Copaiba Soluble in Water -4795 

Copaiba, Solution of. Specific .. 4801 

Copal OU- Yamish 2876 

Copal Picture Yamish 2907 

Copal Spirit YarnLsh.... 290.5, 2907 

Copal, to dissolve, in Spirit 2904 

Copper 3240 

Copper, Acetate of 4088, 4089 

Cooper, AUovs of. -.3348, 3409, (fcc, 

3439. 3440. ' 
Copper, Alloys of, for Dentists. 3437 

Copper Ajnalgam 3.543 

Copper, Ammonio-sulphate of. 4090 

Copper, Arsenite of 2711 

Copper, Cement for 2172 

Copper, Chloride of 4097 

Copper, Cvanide of 3753 

Copper Enamel 2400 

Copper, Etching Fluid for 2961 

Copper, Feather-Shot 3249 

Copper, Ferrocyanide of 4098 

Copper, Flux for Reducing 3470 

Copper. Flux for Welding 3531 

Copper, Fulminating 2135 

Copper Moulds for Electrotvp- 

ing 3672,3680 

Copper Moulds, to coat . . 3673 

Copper, Xitrate of 4091 

Copper, Oxides of. . .4092. 4094, 4095 

Copper, Prussiate of 4098 

Copper, Sheet, Weight of 6139 

Copper, Solder for. 3498, 3517 

Copper Solution for Electrotvp- 

ing '..3661 

Copper Stains, to remove, from 

Marble 516 

Copper. SiUphate of 4096 

Copper, Sulphite of 4093 

Copper, Test for. in Compounds 3241 
Copper, Tests for, in Solutions. 4099 

4375. 
Copper, to bronze... 3772, 3787, 3797 

Copper, to clean 32.52, 3389 

Copper, to coat Figures with ..3687 
Copper, to coat Metals with 3635, (fcc. 
Copper, to coat Cast Iron with. 3635 

Copper, to coat Iron "with 8756 

Copper, to coat, with Brass 3633 

3634. 
Copper, to coat, with SUver. ..3607 

3609. 

Copper, to coat, with Tin 3644 

Copper, to coat, with Zinc 3651 

Copper, to coat Zinc with 3655 

Copper, to color 3188, 3313 

Copper, to platinize 3658 

Copper, to prevent Corrosion 

of 32.51 

Copper, to protect 3765 

Copper, to reduce, to Powder. .3245 
Copper, to separate, from Al- 
loys 324Q 

Copper, to separate Lead from 3242 
Copper, to separate SUver from 3245 
Copper, to separate Tin from . . 3244 
Copper, to separate Zinc from. 3243 



574= 



COP— cou 



cou — cue 



cue — DEC 



Copper, to weld 3250 

Copper, White 3414, &c. 

Copperas 4146 

Copying, see article to be copied. ! 

Copying Ink 2520 

Copying Paper 1926, 1948 | 

Coral, Artificial 6173 

Coral Dentifrice 1299 

Coralline Aniline Dye 2585 | 

Coralline, Innoxious 2588 

Coralline, Solvent for 2587 I 

Cord -Wood Measure 5397 j 

Cordage, to Kyanize 1681 

Cordial, Blackben-y 5658 \ 

Cordial, Diarrhoea 5658 | 

Cordial, Dysentery 5375 , 

Cordial, iSTerve 5215 

Cordials, Aroma of 812 i 

Cordials, Filter Bags for 811 ; 

Cordials, Finings, for 807, &c. ! 

Cordials, Syrups for 1369 

Cordials, to clarify 704 

Cordials, to make 767 

Cordials, to make, by Distilla- 
tion 796 

Coriander, Extract of 1041 

Coriander, Tincture of 1014 

Cork, to remove a, inside a Bot- 
tle 6227 

Corking Bottles, Directions for 930 

Corks, Cement for sealing 2238 

Corks, to tie down 930 1 

Corkscrew, Substitute for a. . . .6226 
Corn, to measure, in the Crib. .6128 

Corn Plaster 506O 

Cornelian, Imitation 2427, &c. 

Cornices, Stuff for making 2200 

Cornish Flux 3462, 3405 

Corns 5847 

Corns, Caustic for 5079 

Conis, Lotion for 5329 

Corn Powder 5825 

Corns, Remedies for 5849, &c. 

Corns, Soft, to cure 5850 

Corns, to prevent 5848 

Corrosion, to prevent, in Metals 3251 

Corrosive Liquids, to filter 3836 

Corrosive Sublimate 4139 

Corrosive Sublimate, Antidotes 

for 5902, 5903 

Corrosive Sublimate Antiseptic 

Solution 1664 

Corvisart's Elixir of Pcpsine. . .4719 
Corvisart's Syrup of Pepsine..4C84 

Cosmetic Balsam of Honey 1121 

Cosmetic Gloves 1176 

Cosmetic Solution of Potassa..4856 
Cosmetics for the Hair, Caution 

about 1286 

Cosmetics for the Skin, &c. 1116, &c. 
Cottereau's Odontalgic Essence 5876 
Cottereau's "Wine of'Cinchonia 4710 
Cotton, Aniline Dyes for. .2569, &c. 
Cotton, Difficulty in Dyeing, 

with AnUine 2570 

Cotton, Dyes for, see color of 

DYE. 

Cotton, Hemarks on Dyeing. . . 321 

Cotton, to bleach 1715, 1717 

Cotton, to detect, in Mixed Fab- 
rics 295, &c. 

Cotton, to remove Mildew from 128 

Cotton, to silver 3G27 

Cotton Cloth, to bleach 125 

Cotton Cloth, to prepare, for Dye- 
ing 124 

Cotton Goods, Starch for 497 

Cotton Goods, to dye 131, <fcc. 

Cotton Goods, to fix the Colors 

of 491 

Cotton Goods, to renloye Stains 

from 126,127 

Cotton-Seed Oil, to bleach 1510 

Cotton Yarn, to bleach 123 

Cotton Yam, to prepare, for 

Dyeing 122 

Cough Balsam 5442 

Cough Lozenges 5346 

Coueh Medicine 5233, 5363 

Cough Mixture 5262, 5268. 5607, 5610 
5611. 

Cough PiD 5598 

Cough Plaster 5050 



Cough, Remedies for 5598, &c. 

Cough Syrup 5465, 5603 

Cough Tincture 5234 

Cough, to relieve 5590 

Cough, Whooping, see Whoop- 

LN'G Cough. 

Cough with Cold, to cure 5605 

Counterfeit Bank of England 

'Notes, to detect 6396 

Counterfeit Gold 3397 

Counter-irritants 5082 

Court Plaster 5058 

Cowslip Pomade 1263 

Coxe's Hive Svrup 5273 

Cracked-Hoof, 'Ointment for . . .5002 

Crackled Sugar 1368 

Cramps, Cure for 5696 

Cranesbill. Fluid Extract of. . . .4577 

Crape, Black, to renovate 462 

Crape, China, to wash 465 

Crayon Drawings, to fix 1961 

Crayons, Charcoal 1971 

Crayons, Composition for 1970 

Crayons, Lithograpliic 1958 

Cream Cheese 1594 

Cream, Cold 1125, <fcc. 

Cream, Glvcerine 1129 

Cream of Tartar 4197 

Cream, Rose Glycerine 1130 

Cream, Shaving 602, 604, 607 

Cream, Snow 1131 

Cream Syrup, Imitation 1430 

Cream Syrups for Soda Water. 1425 

Cream, to make, rise 6284 

Creases in Drawings, Sec, to 

flatten 1963 

Creatine 4313 

Creatinine 4013 

Creme de Cathay 1128 

Creme de Pistache 1139 

Creme de Psvche 1137 

Cremnitz White 2099 

Creosote, Antiseptic Solution of 1652 

1660. 

Creosote Ointment 49.53, 5404 

Creosote, to preserve Meats, &c., 

with 1646 

Creosote, to test 1C47 

Cress Vinegar 1772 

Crickets, to drive away 1923 

Crimson Aniline Dye 2581 

Crimson Dye for Cottons 156 

Crimson Dye for Silks 246, 251 

Crimson Dye for Woolens. .19.5, 309 

Crimson Fire 2075, 2076 

Crimson Hair Oil 1233 

Crimson Stain for Marble 2C39 

Crimson Stain for Wood 2859 

Crockerj', to mend 2157 

Crocus, or Indian Red 2718 

Crocus Bronzing 3773 

Crocus Martis 4154 

Croton Bugs, to destroy 1902 

Croton Oil Ointment 5762 

Croton Oil, Solution of 5413 

Croup, Remedy for 5G27 

Croup, Symptoms of 5G25 

Croup, to prevent Return of 5628 

Croup, Treatment of 5626 

Crown Glass 2343 

Crucibles, Lute for 2268 

Crude Coal Oil, see Petroleum. 
Crust in Kettles, to prevent . . . 6382 

Crysotvpe Paper 3175 

Crystal Glass 2347, 2352 

Crystal Spirit Varnish 2910 

Crystal, to silver 3G31 

Crystalline Window Glass 23G5 

Crystallization 9 

Crystallized Pomade 1274 

Cuba Honey 1573 

Cubebs, Essential Oil of 1465 

Cubebs, Fluid Extract of 4579 

Cubebs, Tincture of 4.551 

Cubic Feet reduced to Inches .5999 

Cubic or Solid Measure .5996 

Cubic Measure in Metres 5998 

Cucumber Ointment 5000 

Cucumber Plants, to kiU Thrips 

on 18.58 

Cucumber Seeds, to clean 1864 

Cucumber Seeds, to prove 1863 

Cucumbers, Pickled 1793 



Cucumbers, to keep fresh 18ra 

Cullet 2351 

Culm 3314 

Cumming's Paregoric 4528 

Cupellation, Assay by 3191, 3206 

Cuprum Aluminatum 5296 

Cura9oa 771, 777, 799 

Cura9oa, Coloring for 800 

Cura9oa d'HoUande 776 

Curd Cement 2160 

Curd, to collect, for Cheese 1593 

Cures, see disease to be cured. 
Curing, see article to be cured. 

Curious Essence 947 

Curling Liquids for the Hair 1191 

Currant Wine 728, 734 

Currant, Cherry and Raspberry 

Wine 728 

CuiTant and Goosebeny Wine 728 

Curry Powder, Indian 1760 

Cuny Vinegar 1778 

Curtains, Damask, to clean 450 

Cut Flowers, to preserve 1835 

Cutaneous Affections, to allay 

Irritation in 5491 

Cutlery, Caution in Grinding.. 6253 

Cutlery, to grind 6252 

Cuts, Artificial Skin for 5501 

Cuts, Treatment of 5500 

Cuts, Waterproof Covering for 5502 
Cuttings of Plants, to insert . . 1832 
Cuttings of Plants, to manage 1831 

Cyamelide 3952 

Cyanates 39-52 

Cyanate of Ammonia 4323 

Cyanic Acid 3952 

Cyanic Acid, to obtain 3953 

Cyanides, Metallic 3947 

Cyanide of Brass Solution 3759, 3768 

Cyanide of Copper 3753 

Cyanide of Copper, Solution of. 3754 

3755 

Cyanide of Gold 3727 

Cyanide of Potassium 4202 

Cyanide of Potassiimi, Caution 

against 1160 

Cyanide of Potassium, Lotion 

of 1158 

Cyanide of Potassium, Test for 

Free, in Solutions 3703 

Cyanide of Potassium, Ulcers 

caused by, to cure 5918 

Cyanide of'SUver 3697 

Cyanide of Silver, to dissolve . 3699 
Cyanide of Silver and Potas- 

"simn 3698 

Cyanide of Zinc 3753, 4115 

Cyanide of Zinc, Solution of. . 3754 

Cyanotype Paper 3174 

Cyanurets, see Cyanides. 
Cylinders, Cubical Contents of 6001 
Cymbals 3446 

Da Costa's Constipation Pills . ..5455 

Daffy's Elixir ,^. . . 5217 

Dahlia Cuttings, to manage. . .1831 

Dahlia Roots, to preserve 1888 

Dalby's Carminative 5172 

Dale's Process for Oxalic Acid 3902 

Damask Curtains, to clean 450 

Dandelion Alterative 5164 

Dandelion, Infusion of 5701 

Dandelion Pills 5700 

Dandelions, to kUl 1867 

Dark Green Dye for Cottons. . . 163 

Dauvergne's Tar Pomade 1281 

Davidson's mode of deodoriz- 
ing- Putrid Whale Oil 1488 

Davis' Neutralizing Cordial . . . 5424 

Davis' Pain Killer 5410 

Dawson's Patent Soap 545 

Day & Martin's Blacking 3101 

Day. to find the Length of the. .6153 
Deafness, Remedies for ..5809, 5614 

Debility. Treatment of 5780 

Decalcomine Pictures, to ap- 
ply 6195 

Decantation 10 

Decanters, to clean 430 

Decarbonization 3843 

Decayed Wine, to remedy 752 

Decimal Approximations for 
Calculations 6119 



DEC — DIS 



DIS — DRI 



DRI — KAR 



-^7^ 



Decimal Equiralents of Feet, 

Inches, &c 5979, 5985 

Decimal Weights, (fee, seeMET- 
RiCAT. Weights. 

Decoction, Eheumatic 5540 

Decoctions, to prepare 34 

Decoloration 3844 

Decoloring, see articlk to be 

decolored. 
Decomposing CeU for Electro- 
typing 3664 

Decomposition in Wines, Rem- 
edy for 756 

Decomposition in Wines, Test 

for 755 

Defecation 3845 

Deflagration 11 

Degrees of Sugar-BoUing for 

Candies 1368 

Delamotte's Golden Drops 5210 

De la Eue's Patent Parchment 1965 
Delioux's Wine for Kheuma- 

tism, &c 5408 

Deliquescence 22, 3842 

Dennis' Antispasmodic Tinc- 
ture 5270 

Density of Syrups, to determine 

the* 1363 

Dentifrices 1288, (fee, 5469 

Dentists' Alloys 3435, &c. 

Dentists' Amalgams 3549, &c. 

Deodorizing, see article to be 
deodorized. 

Depilatories 1219, &c. 

Depilatories, Caution in Apply- 
ing 1225 

Depilatories, to apply. . . .1223, 1224 
Derbyshire Spar, Cement for . .2218 
Derbyshire's Sea-Sickness Pre- 

Tcntive 5235 

De Rheims' Healing Paper 5059 

Deschamp's Dentifrice 1296 

Deschamp's Fuligokali Oint- 
ment 5380 

Deschamp's PastUs for the 

Breath 5405 

Deschamp's Plaster 5045 

Desiccation 12, 3849 

De Svlvestre's Dextrine Var- 
nish 2927 

Detergents 5504 

Detersive Dentifrice 1289 

Devil Plaster 5278 

DewbeiTy, Tincture of 4497 

Dewee's Carminative 5250 

Dewee's Tincture of Guaiacum5441 

Dextrine 4345 

Dextrine Paste 2300 

Dextrine, to pirrify 2925 

Dextrine Varnish 2927 

Distillation 13 

Diachylon Plaster 5043 

Diamond Paste 2352, 2420, <fec. 

Diamond Tooth Cement 5879 

Diamond Weights 5943 

Diamonds, Imitation 2352 

Diamonds, Imitation, to make, 

brilliant 2436 2459 

Diamonds, Parisian 2444 

Diamonds, to test 4392 

Diaphoretics 5134 

Diarrhoea, Bilious, Cure for 5660 

Diarrhoea in Infants 5661 

Diarrhoea. Remedies for . .5653, &c. 

Diarrhoea, Treatment of 5652 

Dick's Dyspepsia Cure 5681 

Dick's Dyspepsia Pills 5682 

Dickson's Cochineal Coloring.. 2624 
Dieterich's Mode of Bleaching 

Oils 1508 

Digestion 40 

Digestion, Artificial 5680 

Digestive Candy 5260 

Digitalis, Fluid Extract of 4574 

Digitalis, Tincture of 4490 

Dilute Alcohol. Officinal 1437 

Dinneford's Fluid Magnesia. . .4434 

Dinner Pills 5181 

Dip Candles, to make 634 

Diphtheria, Remedies for 5637, (fee. 

Diphtheria, Treatment of 5636 

Diplomas, Wax for 2.327 

Disease, Cure of, by Abstinence 5894 



Disinfectants 1 692, <fcc. 

Disinfectants for Sick Cham- 
bers 1695 

Disinfectants for Slaughter- 

Houses 1694 

Disinfectants for Stables 1694 

Disinfecting Lotion 4852 

Displacement, Tinctures by 41 

Distillation of Cordials 796 

Distillation of Essential Oils... 1465 
Distillation of New England 

Rum 931, (fee. 

Distillation of Perfumed Wa- 
ters 1073 

Distillation of Whiskey 931, <fcc. 

Distillation with or without a 

Heater 937 

Distilled Aromatic Spirits 941 

Distilled Perfumed Waters .... 1070 
DistOled Perfumed Waters, Di- 
rections for 1073 

Distilled Perfumed Waters, 

Practical Suggestions for 1076 

Distilled Perfumed Waters, 

Soubeiran's Apparatus for. . .1077 
Distilled Perfumed Waters, to 

prevent, from Souring 1075 

Distilled Perfumed Waters, to 
remove the Burnt Smell from 1074 

Distilled Vinegar 1746 

DistiUed Water 4768 

Ditchett's Remedy for Piles . . .5255 

Diuretics 5146, <fec. 

Diuretic Drops 5147, 531 1 

Diuretic Infusion 5148 

Diuretic Pills 4910, 5149 

Docks, to kill 1867 

Doebereiner's Self-igniting 

Lamp 6389 

Dogs, to banish Fleas from 1913 

Dogs, White, to wash 6218 

Dogwood, Tincture of 4553 

Dolomite 4241 

Domestic Brandy, Imitation. . . 678 
Domestic Soap Receipts. .548, &c. 
Donovan's Mixture of Cyanide 

of Potassium 5268 

Donovan's Solution of Arsenic 

and Mercury 4777 

Door-Plates. to clean 512 

Doors, to prevent, from Creak- 
ing 6215 

Doppel Kummel 7C9, 6292 

Doses, Strength of, for Different 

Ages 5965 

Doualt Wieland's Paste for 

Gems 2425 

Dove-Colored Family Dye 331 

Dover's Powder 5176 

Dover's Powder, Camphorated 5423 
Dover's Rheumatic Powder . . .5531 

Dover's Tincture 4543 

Dowler's Tape- Worm Remedy. 50.50 

Drab Dye for Cottons 177, (fee. 

Drab Dye for Cotton, SUk and 

Wool 293 

Drab Dye for Silks 272, 310 

Drab Dye for Woolens. 213, 215, 230 

Drain, to, Level Land 1891 

Draught, Black 5212 

Drawing-Crayons, Composition 

for 1970 

Drawing-Ink 2531 

Dra wing-Paper, Sizes of 6131 

Drawing-Paper, to take out 

Creases in 1963 

Drawings, Chalk, to fix 1960 

Drawings, Crayon, to fix 1961 

Drawings, Pencil, to fix 1959 

Drawings, PencU, <fec., to pro- 
tect 6363 

Drawings, to copy 3159 

Drawings, to varnish 2965 

Drawings, Varnish for 2924 

Drayton's Method of Silvering 

oii Glass 3616 

Dresses, Black, to remove Stains 

from 470 

Dresses, Colored, to wash 485 

Dresses, Linen. <fec., to wash ..6412 

Dresses, to clean 460 

Drills, Lubricator for 2366, 6273 

Drills, to temper 3286 



Drinking to Excess, Tonic after 5818 

Drops, Carminative 5689 

Drops, Diuretic 5147, 5311 

Drops, Dutch 5342 

Props, French, for Scouring. . . 354 

Drops, Golden 5210 

Drops, Haerlem 5342 

Drops, Hot 5179 

Drops, Hot, for Beer 891 

Drops, Jesuits' 5091, 5338 

Drops, Pectoral 5193 

Drops, Prince Rupert's 2373 

Drops, Red 5376, 5411 

Drops, Sweating 5142 

Dropsy, Remedy for 5697, 5754 

Drowned Persons, apparently, 

to restore 5893> 

Druggists' Show Colors.. 2648, &c.' 
Druggists' Show Colors, to keep 

from freezing 2672 

Drummond Light, the 6388 

Drunkenness, Habitual, to cure 5817 

Dry, Chemically, to 3842 

Dry Measure 5970 

Dry Measure compared with 

Imperial 5972 

Dry Measure compared with 

Metrical 5971 

Dry Measure, Imperial 6037 

Dry Measure, Imperial, com- 
pared with Litres 60401 

Dry Measure, Imperial, com- 
pared with IJ. States 603B( 

Dry Rot, to preserve Timber 

from 1679 

Dry Salting of Meat 1602 

Dryers for Paints 2735, (fee. 

Drying, Chemical 3842 

Drying, Loss of Substances in. 6149 

Di-ying Oils 2726, <fec. 

Dubbing for Leather 3078 

Duchemin's Enamel 2402 

Ductmty of Metals 3355 

Dullo's iPlatinized Glass 3G56 

Dumoulin's Liquid Glue 2285 

Dupasquier's Iodide of Iron 

Water 4478 

Dupuytren's PiUs 5258. 

Dupuytren's Pomade 1282 

Durand's Syrup of Phosphate of 

Lime 4636 

Durockereau's Cologne Water 980 

Dutch Areometers 6100, 61 63 

Dutch Drops .5342 

Dutch MetcJ 3348 

Dutch Metal, to gild with 3576, 

Dutch Weights and Measures . 6090 
Dyes, see article to be dyed 
Dyes, Aniline... 332, <fec., 2552, <fcc. 
Dyes, Aniline, Directions for 

using 2563 

Dyes, Aniline, Mordants for.. .2567 
Dyes, Aniline, Test for Sugar 

in 256]l 

Dyes, Aniline, to distinguish ..2564 

Dyes, Aniline, to remove 2565^ 

Dyes, Aniline, to remove Sugar 

from 2562 

Dye-Bath 93 

Dye-Woods 94 

Dye -Woods, Properties of 214 

Dyes, Chrome, for Cottons 183, <fec. 
Dyes, Chrome, for Woolens 221 , &c. 
Dyes for the Hair. . . 1198, (fee, 6401 

Dyeing, Art of 93 

Dyeing, see color of dye. 
Dyeing, FamilyReceiptsfor302, <fce. 
Dyeing, to make Solutions for.. 121 
Dyeing Veneers, Directionsfor 2837 
Dyeing Wood, Directions for.. 2824 

Dyers' Aquafortis 3880<' 

Dysentery Cordial, Patent 5375 

Dysentery, Remedies for.. 5676, &c. 

Dysentery, Treatment of 5675 

Dyspepsia, Remedies for.. 5680, <fec. 
Dyspepsia, Treatment of 5679 

Eagle-Marine Foil 2457 

Eagle-Marine, Imitation 2438 

Ear, Inflammation of the. Remedy 

for 5813 

Ear, to destroy Insects in the. .5816 
Earache, Cure for 5811, &c. 



576 



EAR — ^ELE 



ELE — ENA 



e:j;a — ESS 



Earache, Treatment of 5810 

Earth, &c., Weight of 6134 

Earthenware, to clean 434 

East-India Pomade 1272 

East-Indian Money 6112 

Easton's Syrup of Phosphate of 

Iron, &c 4629 

EauBotot 1324 

Eau d'Ambre Eoyale 994 

Eau d' Ambrette 995 

Eau de Beaute 1146 

Eau de Bouquet 992 

Eau de Cologne 976, &c. 

Eau de Cologne, Ammoniated-1096 
Eau de Cologne, Concentrated 950 

Eau de Heliotrope 1003 

Eau de Javelle 4787, 6414 

Eau de Labarraque 4788 

Eau de Lavande 989 

Eau de LaYande,Ammoniacalel097 
Eau de Lavande de Millefleurs 1000 

Eau de Marechale 993 

Eau de Melisse 988 

EaudeMiel 1006 

Eau des Carmes 988 

Eau Forte, for Copper-Engrav- 
ing 2962 

Eau Magnesienne 4434 

Eau Medicinale d'Husson 5208 

Eau Eoyale 994 

Ebony Stain for Wood 2844 

Eclectic Emetic Powder 5169 

Economical Perfumes 1026 

Edge-Tools, see Tools. 

Edulcoration 3847 

EflFervescing Lemonade 906 

Efflorescence 3842 

Eger Water, Aerated 444 1 

Egg ^tsTogg 923 

Egg Powder 1817 

Eggs, to distinguish Good 1631 

Eggs, to preserve 1629 

Egyptiacnm Salve 5004 

Egyptain Marbles for Books. . .3110 

Egvptain Ointment 5005 

Ehi-le's Styptic Cotton 5560 

Eisenmann's Opiated Wine of 

Colchicum 5389 

Elastic Cement 6391 

Elastic Glue 2306 

Elastic Moulding 3685 

Elder Wine 728 

Elder-Elower Vinegar 1771 

Elder-Elower Water, to distill. 1072 
1073 

Elder-Elowers, OU of 4752 

Elecampane, Eluid Extract of. 4579 

Electric Tissue 6320 

Electrical Machines, Amalgam 

for 3539 

Electrical Machines, Cement 

for 2170 

Electricity, to improve Wines 

by 726, 6295 

Electro-gilding 3724, &c. 

Electro-gilding, Conditions re- 
quired in 3732 

Electro-gilding on Paper, SUk, 

and Fibrous Materials 3738 

Electro-gilding, Practical Sug- 
gestions for 3737 

Electro-gilding, Process of 3730 

Electro-gilding, Solutions for ..3728 

3733. 
Electro-gilding, to improve the 

Color in 3735 

Electro-gilding, to regulate the 

Color in 3734 

Electro-gilding with Red Gold. 3736 

Electro-plating 3696, &c. 

Electro-plating on Paper, Silk, 

and Fibrous Materials 3738 

Electro-plating, Solutions for.. 3697 
Electro-plating, to improve the 

Deposit in 3710 

Electro-plating, to insure Suc- 
cess in 3711 

Electro-plating, to prepare Arti- 
cles for 3705 

Electro-plating, to preserve a 

Dead Surface in 3708 

Electro-plating, to remove the 
White Surface after 3709 



Electro-plating with Alumi7mm3749 

Electro-plating with Brass 3752 

3769. 

Electro-plating with Cobalt 3766 

Electro-plating with German 

Silver 3770 

Electro-plating with Mckel . . .3762 

3'''53. 
Electro-plating with Palladium 3761 
Electro-plating with Platinum. 3760 
Electro-plating with Silicium. .3767 

Electro-plating with Tin 3750 

Electro-plating with various Met- 
als 3748, &c. 

Electro-plating with Zinc 3757 

Electrotyping 3060, &c. 

Electrotyping on Large Ob- 
jects 3692 

Electrotyping on Paper, SUk, 

and Fibrous Materials 3738 

Electrotyping on Wood 3695 

Electrotyping, Single Cell Pro- 
cess for 3669 

Electrotyping, to prepare Moulds 

for 3672, &c. 

Electrotyping with a Battery. .3671 

Electuaries 5152, &c. 

Electuaries, Tooth 1305, &c. 

Electuary, Aperient 5153 

Electuary, Lenitive 5154 

Elements, Table of, and their 

Chemical Equivalents ... 6150 

Elixirs 4697, &c. 

Elixir, Anti-catarrh 5447 

Elixir, Aperient 5446 

Elixir, Daffy's 5217 

Elixir de Garus 4717 

Elixir of Bismuth 5420 

Elixir of Bromide of Ammoni- 
um 5374 

Elixir of Bromide of Potassium5449 
Elixir of Bromide of Sodium . . - 5215 

Elixir of CaUsaya 4698, 4701 

Elixir of CaUsaya, Ferrophospho- 

rated 4699, 4700 

Elixir of Chloroform 4730 

Elixir of Gentian, Ferrophospho- 

rated 4725 

Elixir of Opium 4735 

Elixir of Pepsine 4718, <fcc., 4724 

Elixir of Peruvian Bark and 

Iron 4702 

EKxir of Taraxacum 4729, 4736 

Elixir of Valerianate of Ajnmo- 

nia 4728, 4732, &c. 

Elixir of Vitriol 4731, 4740 

Elixir of Wild Cherry, Ferra- 

ted 4716 

Elixir, Pectoral 5445 

Elixir, Squire's 5228 

Elixii', Stomachic 5118, &c. 

Elixii-, Tonic 5407 

Elixir, Traumatic 5419 

Elixir Vegetal de la Grande 

Chartreuse 806, 6291 

Elkington's Gilding Liquid 3588 

Elkington's Patent Gilding 3587 

Ellerman's Disinfecting Fluid.. 1700 

Ellis's Essence of Beef 4618 

Eisner's Zinc Green 2691 

Elutriation 14 

Embalming 1666 

Embrocations, see Liniments. 
Embroidery, to prepare 'New 

Linen for 6229 

Emerald Green 2712 

Emerald, Imitation . 2360, 2439, 2446 

Emery Paper or Cloth 1935 

Emery, to cement, to Wood . . . 6269 
Emery Wheel for Grinding 

Tools 6268 

Emery Wheels, Cement for... 2246 

Emetics 5167, &c. 

Emetic Mixture 5168 

Emetic Powder, Eclectic 5169 

Emetic, Simple 5170 

Ems Water, Aerated .4442 

Emulsions 43 

Emulsion of Almonds 1140, 1155 

Emulsion of Cod-Liver Oil 5437 

Emulsion of Pumpkin-seeds . . .5432 

Enamel, Photographing on 3164 

Enamel Powder for the Skin.. 11 15 



Enameled Wood, to Polish ...3015 

Enameling on Wood 3010, fcc. 

Enameling, Rubber for 3013 

Enamels 2378, &c. 

Enfleurage, Oils perfumed by. .1229, 
Enfleurage, Pomade perfumed 

by 1263 

EngeLhardt's Method of Bleach 

ing Oils 1509 

Engestroom Tutania 3451 

Engineers' Cement 2225 

English Weights and Measures 6031 

Engraving on Glass 2376 

Engraving on Glass, Varnish 

for 2959 

Engravings, Sizing for 2647 

Engravings, to bleach 6399 

Engravings, to clean, 1972, &c., 640O 
Engravings, to print, on Plaster 1975 
Engravings, to remove Water 

Stains from 6398 

Engravings, to remove Yellow 

Stains from 413 

Engravings, to take out Creases 

in 1963 

Engravings, to transfer on 

Glass 6335 

Engravings, to transfer on 

Paper 1974 

Engravings, to transfer on 

Wood or Stone 6336 

Engravings, to imroll and flat- 
ten 6397 

Epicurean Sauce 1755 

Epsom Salts 4241 

Epsom Salts, to disguise the 

Taste of 5891 

Epsom Salts, to distinguish Ox- 
alic Acid fi'om 3904 

Equivalents, Chemical, of the 

Elements 6150, 61.51 

Equivalents of Acids 81 

Equivalents of Alkalies 80 

Eraser, Ink 6393 

Erasmus Wilson's Hair- Wash. 11 82 

Ergot, Fluid Extract of 4578 

Ergot, Tincture of 4517 

Erica-Cuttings, to manage 1831 

Erysipelas, Lotion for 5427 

Eschalot Vinegar 1775 

Eschalot Wine 1783 

Esprits 998 

Esprit d' Ambrette 995 

Esprit de Bergamot 999 

Esprit de Bouquet 1002 

Esprit de Jasmin Odorant 1004 

Esprit de Rose .1001 

Essences 941, &c. 

Essence, Bitter 4615 

Essence, Curious 947 

Essence for Headache 5229 

Essence for Scenting Pomades 1261 

Essence for Toothache 5874, &c. 

Essence of Almonds 943 

Essence of Allspice 952 

Essence of Ambergris -959, 963, 964 

Essence of Ambrette 968 

Essence of Apple, Artificial . . . 105* 

4303 
Essence of Apricot, Artificial. . 1047 

Essence of Beef 4616, 4618 

Essence of Bergamot 969 

Essence of Bitter Almonds 943 

Essence of Black-Cherry, Arti- 
ficial 1050 

Essence of Camphor 4611 

Essence of Cassia 970 

Essence of Chamomile 4613 

Essence of Cherry, Artificial . . 1049 

Essence of Cinnamon 971 

Essence of Civet 972 

Essence of Cognac 675 

Essence of Cologne 950 

Essence of Coltsfoot 4612 

Essence of Fleurs d'Orange 961 

Essence of Frangipanni 948 

Essence of Ginger 4619 

Essence of Gooseberry, Artifi- 
cial 1056 

Essence of Grape, Artificial. . . 1055 

Essence of Guaiacum 4623 

Essence of Lavender 973 

Essence of Lemon 956 



ESS — EXT 



EXT — FEN 



577 



T".ssence of Tjemon, Artifieial , .1051 

Essence of Life 5337 

Essence of Melon. Artifici£^1...1059 

Essence of Mirbane 432*2 

Essence of Musk 95(5, <fcc. 

Essence of Musk-Seed 9G8 

Essence cf Myrtle, Artificial ..10G8 

Essence of Iferoli 961 

Essence of Orange 950 

jEssence of Orange, Artificial.. 1053 
lEssence of Orange-Blossoms. . . 9G1 

Essence of Orange-Flowers 951 

Essence of Orange-peel 951 

Essence of Orris, Artificial 949 

Essence of Patchouli 9Gfi, <fcc. 

Essence of Poach, Artificial.. .1046 

Essence of Peach Kernels 943 

Essence of Pear, Artificial 1052, 4302 

Essence of Peppermint 4610 

Essence of Pimento 952 

Essence of Pine-apple 953 

Essence of Pine-apple, Artifi- 
cial 1060, 4293 

Essence of Pouchapat 966 

Essence of Quince, Artificial- .4296 

Essence of Quinine 4624 

Essence of Kaspberry, Artifi- 
cial 1057 

Essence of Rennet 1596 

Essence of Rondeletia 946, 1062 

Essence of Roses 944, &c. 

Essence of Soap 604 

Essence of Soup Herbs 1763 

Essence of Spearmint 4614 

Essence of Spices 1764 

Essence of Spruce 888 

Essence of Storax or Styrax. . . 962 
Essence of StrawbeiTy, Artifi- 
cial 1058 

Essence of Tuberose 954 

Essence of VanUla 965 

Essence of Violets, Artifieial. . 949 

Essence, Plum 1048 

Essence Royale 960 

Essences, Medicinal 4608, <fcc. 

Essences, Medicinal, to color .4609 

Essences of Flowers 942, 974 

Essences, Perfumed 940 

Essential Oils 1464, &c. 

Essential Oil of Aloes 1465 

Essential Oil of Anise 1465 

Essential OH of Apple. . . .1469, 4303 

Essential Oil of Bark 46 

Essential Oil of Bergamot Pear 4302 
Essential On of Bitter Almondsl465 
Essential Oil of Bitter Almonds, 

Factitious 4322 

Essential Oil of Bitter Almonds, 

Non-poisonous 1512 

Essential Oil of Bitter Almonds, 

Test for 1479 

Essential- Oil of Calamus 1465 

Essential Oil of Caraway 1465 

Essential Oil of Cinnamon 1465 

Essential Oil of Cinnamon, Test 

for 1481 

Essential Oil of Cloves 1465 

Essential Oil of Cloves, Test 

for 1485 

Essential Oil of Fennel 1465 

Essential Oil of Horsemint 1465 

Essential Oil of Jargonelle Pear, 

Factitious 1470, 4302 

Essential Oil of Juniper 1465 

Essential Oil of Lavender 1465 

Essential OU of Lavender, Test 

for -1482 

Essential Oil of Lemon 1465 

Essential OU of Lemon, to k«',epl473 
Essential Oil of Lemon, to re- 
store 1472 

Essential Oil of Mustard 1465 

Essential Oil of Origanum 1465 

Essential Oil of Pear, Facti- 
tious 1470, 4302 

Essential Oil of Pennyroyal . . .1465 
Essential Oil of Peppermint . . . 1465 

Essential Oil of Pimento 1465 

Essential OU of Quince, Facti- 
tious 1471, 429P 

Essential Oil of Rhodium -TVoodl4G5 
Essential OU of Sandal- Wood. .1465 
Essential OU of Sassafras 1460 



Essential OU of Savine 1465 

Essential Oil of Spearmint 1465 

Essential OU of Valerian 1465 

Essential OUs, MiUons Method 

for 1467 

Essential Oils, Mixed 1243 

Essential OUs, to detect Alcohol 

in 1476 

Essential OUs, to detect Mixtures 

of 1477 

Essential OUs, to detect Oil or 

Resin in 1475 

Essential Oils, to distUl 1466 

Essential OUs, to extract, from 

Wood. Sco 46 

Essential OUs, to obtain 1465 

Essential Oils, to perfume OUs 1227 

Essenri.il ( )ils. to purity 1474 

Essential Salt of Lemons 378 

Etcliing Fluid for Copper 2961 

Etching Fluid for Ivory 2002 

Etching Fluid for Steel 2963 

Etching on Glass 2374 

Etching on Ivory 2004 

Etching on SheUs 6186 

Etching Varnishes 2960 

Etching Varnish for Glass 2959 

Etching Varnish for Ivory 2003 

Ether 4279, &c. 

Ether. Acetic 4291, &c. 

Ether, Benzoic 4294 

Ether, Butyi'ic 4293 

Ether, Cautions about,.. 4283 

Ether, Chloric 4297 

Ether, Compound Spirit of 4749 

Ether, Formic 4295 

Ether Glue 6385 

Ether, Hydrochloric 4290 

Ether. Kitric 4287 

Ether, Kitrous 4288 

Ether, CBnanthic 4296 

Ether, Ozone 4284 

Ether, Pelargonic 1471, 4296 

Ether, Percentage of, in Alco- 
holic Mixtures 4286 

Ether, Phosphorated 4748 

Ether, Stronger, Officinal 4281 

Ether, Sulphuric 4279, (fcc. 

Ether, Svn:p of 4653 

Ether, Tests for 4285 

Ether, to purify 4282 

Ethereal Extracts, to prepare . . 44 

Ethereal Solution of Gold 3585 

Ethine 4048 

Ethiops of AntLmony 4126 

Ethyl 4298 

Ethyl, Acetate of 4299 

Ethyl Benzine 6409 

Ethyl, Benzoate of 4294 

Ethvl. Butyi-ate of 4293 

Ethvl, Chloride of 4290 

Ethyl, Formiate of 4295 

Ethyl, (Enanthvlate of 4296 

Ethyl, Oxide of 4279 

Ethyl, Valerianate of 4300 

Evans' Tooth Amalgam 3549 

Evaporating Lotions 4843 

Evaporation 15, 44 

Evaporation, Spontaneous 3842 

Everton Taffee 6283 

ExceUent DentUBrice 1297 

Exchequer Ink 2469 

Expansion Metal 3454 

Expectorants 5595 

Explosives 2130, &c. 

Explosive Compound, New 2137 

Expression. Vegetable Juices by 45 

Extermination of Vermin 1892 

Extract of Almonds 1033 

Extract of Arnica 4751 

Extract of Bitter Almonds 1033 

Extract of Bitter Almonds, Non- 
poisonous 1034 

Extract of Black Cohosh 4750 

Extract of Black Pepper 1039 

Extract of Capsicum 1040 

Extract of Celery 1043 

^ Extract of Cinnamon 1036 

' Extract of Coriander 1041 

> Extract of Ginger 1038 

I Extract of Indigo 99 

' Ex*.r'i''t of Lead 4775 

' Bx*:i\et of Lemon 1031 



Extract of Milk 

Extract of Nutmegs 

Extract of Orange 

Extract of Patchouli 

Extract of Roses 

Extract of Soup-Herbs 

Extract of Storax or Styrax 

Extract of VaniUa 

Extracts, Flavoring 

Extracts, Fluid, see Fluid Ex- 
tracts. 

Extracts, to keep, from Mould- 
ing 

Extracts, to prepare 44, 

Extraits 1061, 

Extrait do Frangipanni 

Extrait de MiUeflem'S 

Extrait de Patchouli 

Extrait de Rondeletia 946, 

Eye, Black, Treatment of. 5792, 

Eye. to aUay In-itation in the. . 

Eye, to expel Insects from the. 

Eye, to extract Steel from the. 

Eye, to remove Dirt from the. . 

Eye, to remove Zinc or Iron 
from the 

Eye Waters 5797, 



5470 
1037 
1032 
1069 
1035 
1044 
962 
1042 
1030 



44 

1061 
&c. 
948 
1063 
1069 
1062 
&c. 
5806 
5795 
5796 
579'< 

580*t 



Face, to mould the, in Wax . . .368« 

Face-joints, Cement for 21ft'> 

Factitious, see article imitated. 
Fahrenheit, Centigrade and 

Reaumur compared 9Bt 

Fahrenheit's Thermometer ... &°; 
Fahrenheit, to reduce Centi- 
grade to 8f- 

Fahrenheit, to reduce Reaumur 

to 8b 

Fahrenheit, to reduce, to Centi- 
grade 87 

Fahrenheit, to reduce, to Reau- 
mur 89 

Fainting Fits, Treatment of... 5694 

Falk's Antacid Tincture 544t 

FamUv Salve 4935 

FamUy Soap, to make . 549, &c, 6307 

Fancy Boxes, to Stain 2858 

Farina's Eau de Cologne.. 982, 985 
Fat, Rancid, to restore . . . 1489, <fec. 

Fat, to color, for Pomades 1257 

Fat, to deodorize, for Soap 530 

Fat, to extract, from Bones 1525 

Fat, to grain 532 

Fat, to keep from getting Ran- 
cid 531, 535, 1491, &c 

Fat, to perfume 125;) 

Fat, to preserve 536, 1516, 630!) 

Fat, to purify .1254, 1517 

Faucets. Wooden, to keep from 

Cracking 630.) 

Fawn Dves for Cottons 146, 150, &c. 

Fawn Dye for SUks 310 

Feather Brushes, to make 6203 

Feather Shot Copper 3249 

Feathered Sugar 1368 

Feathered Tin 107, 3319 

Feathers. Goose, to cleanse 6324 

Feathers. Ostrich, to clean 655 

Feathers, Solutions for preserv- 
ing 1663 

Feathers, to bleach 1727 

Feathers, to cleanse, from Ani- 
mal Fat e&j 

Feathers, to curl 658 

Feathers, to dve 324, &c. 

Febrifuge Spirit 5194 

Febrifuge Tmcture 5195 

Feln-ifugo Wine 5141 

Feet, BUstered, Remedy for . . .5830 

Feet, Cold, Remedy for 5831 

Feet, Frosted, Remedy for 5843 

Feet, Lineal, compared with 

Metres 5978 

Feet, to absorb Perspiration in 

the 5846 

Feet, to correct Offensive SmeU 

in the 5845 

Felon 5548 

Felon, Bone, to cure 5551 

Felon. Treatment of 5549, &c. 

Felting, French Waterproof. . . 1556 
Females, PUls for . . .5382, 5719, &.c. 
Fences, AVhitewash for 2803 



578 



FEN— FIR 



FIR — FLO 



FLO— FLU 



Pennel, Essential Oil of 1465 

Fennel Water 4757 

Fennel Water, to distm.-1071, 1073 

Penugreek-Seeds, Oil of 4752 

rermentatiou 16, 861 

Fermentation, Acetous 16 

Fermentation, Acetous, in Beer 867 
Fermentation, Alcoholic or Yin- 

ous - 16 

Fermentation in Brewing 861 

Fermentation, Mucilaginous or 

Viscous 16 

Fermentation of Beer, "Hints on 866 

Fermentation, Putrid 16 

Fermentation, Saccharine 16 

Fermentation, to arrest 766 

Fermentation, to induce 765 

Fermentation, to prevent, in 

Cider 835,852 

Fermented Cider 837, &c. 

Fermenting, to prevent Syrup 

from 1366 

Ferns, to copy 6174 

Ferrated Ehxirof Wild-Cherry 4716 
Ferrated Wine of Wild-Cherry . 4715 

Ferridcyanides 3954 

Ferridcyanide of Iron 4169 

Ferridcyanide of Potassium . . .4200 

Ferrochyazic Acid 3956 

Ferrocyanides 3956 

Ferrocyanide of Copper 4098 

Ferrocyanide of Iron 41 67 

Ferrocyanide of Potassium 4201 

Ferrophosphorated Elixir of Cal- 

isaya 4699, 4700 

Ferrophosphorated Elixir of 

Gentain 4725 

Fertilizers for the Soil. . . .1820, &c. 

Fertilizing Powder 1829 

Festers, Poultice for 5032 

Fever and Ague, Eemedies for 5579 

&c., 6420. 

Fever Drink 4762, 5136 

Fever, Houseleek for 5144 

Fever. Intermittent, Pills for.. 4 904 

4908. 
Fever, Intermittent, Remedies 

for.' 5756, 6420 

Fever Mixture 5137, 5757 

Fever Powder 5145 

Fever, Scarlet, Preventive of. .5753 

Fever, Scarlet, Kemedy for 5755 

Fever, Scarlet, Treatment of. .5750 

Fever Tincture 5371 

Fever, Typhoid, Eemedy for.. 5747 

Fig Soap 601 

Fig Wine 729 

File, to, a Flat Surface 6255 

Files, Old, to temper 3289 

FUes, to clean 6258 

Files, to sharpen, with Acids .. 6256 

Filled Soap 538 

Filter Bags for Cordials 811 

Filter for Bitters 830 

Filter for Brandy 7C9 

Filter for SheUac 2934 

Filter for Strong Acids or Alka- 
lies 18 

Filter for Syrups 1358 

Filter for Wines 714 

Filter, Gun-Cotton 18 

Filter, Self-feeding 17, 3840 

Filter, to, Corrosive Liquids ... 3836 

Filter, to. Precipitates 3337 

Filter, to, Bapidly 3838 

Filter, to, Vegetable Infusions 3835 
Filter, to, Vegetable Juices ..3834 
Filtering Paper, Qualities of . . 17 

Filtering Powders 3839 

Filters for Various Purposes. . . 17 

Filtration 17 

Finger-nails, Treatment of 5823 

Finger-rings, Tight, to remove 6213 

Fining for Ale or Beer 871 

Fining for Cordials 807, <tc. 

Fining for Gin 7?6 

Fining for Spirits 703 

Fining for Wines 716 

F^e Annihilator 6379 

Fire-Brick, to remove Clinker 

from 6241 

Fire-Damp 4048 

Fire-Eating Ghosts 2101 



Fire-Gilding 3594 

Fire, Greek 2129 

Fire in a Chimney, to put out 6209 
Fire Kindlers, to make. . .6205, 6402 

Fire Lute 2269 

Fireproof Canvas 1563 

Fireproof Paint 2772 

Fireproof Paper 1941 

Fireproof, to render various Ar- 
ticles 1564 

Fireproof Whitewash 2801 

Fires, Colored 2065, &e. 

Fires, to extinguish 6379 

Firework Cases, to make 2053 

Firework Mixture, Japanese . .2127 

Fireworks 2048, &c. 

Fish, Gold, to keep 6189 

Fish Oil, to detect 1498 

Fish, to preserve, with Sugar . .1615 

Fits, Fainting 5694 

Fits, Treatment of 5695 

Fixed Oils 1487, &c. 

Fixed Oils, Lubricatiug, to re- 
fine 1495 

Fixed Oils, Rancid, to restore . 1489 

Fixed Oils, Tests for 1496, &c. 

Fixed Oils, to bleach 1504, &c. 

Fixed Oils, to deodorize 1488 

Fixed Oils, to prevent Rancid- 
ity ia 1491 

Fixed Oils, to purify 1511 

Fixed Oils, to purifv, for Lamps 1494 

Flannel, Old, to bleach 507, 6327 

Flannels, to wash and shrink. . 493 

Flat-irons, to clean 6228 

Flatness in Beer, to remedy 878 

Flatting for House-painting . . .2753 
Flatulency, see Cakmlnatives. 

Flavor of 'Almonds 943 

Flavoring Extracts 1030 

Flavorins: for Beer 864 

Flavorings for Liquids, 664,&c.,6294 

Flaxen Hair-Dye 1206 

Flaxseed Tea 5589 

Fleas, to banish 1913 

Fleas, to catch 1915 

Fleas, to exterminate 1914 

Flemming's Solution of Strych- 
nia 5355 

Flesh-color Stain for Marble.. 2040 

Flesh-colored Collodion 1168 

Fleurs d' Orange, Essence 961 

Fleurs d' Orange, PastiUesaux-1342 

Flexible OH -Varnishes 2890 

Flexible Spirit -Varnish.. .2948, &c. 

Flies, Poison for 1912 

Flies, to drive from Stables 1923 

Flies, to keep, from Horses 1924 

FHes, to kill 1911 

Flint Glass 2352 

Floating Soap 568 

Floors, Concrete for 2206 

Floors, to clean 426 

Floors, to extract OU Stains 

from 394 

Floors, Wax for Polishing 1591 

Florida Water 1011 

Florists' Compost 1822 

Flour, how to judge 4379 

Flour, Musty, to improve 1644 

Flour, to detect Mineral Substan- 
ces in 4378 

Flowers, Argentine 4127 

Flower-Garden, Receipts for 

the 1819, &c. 

Flower-Pots, to expel Worms 

from 1853 

Flowers, Cut, to keep Fresh, 1835&C. 
Flowers, Cut, to preserve 1836, 6175 

Flowers, Essences of 942, 974 

Flowers, Faded, to restore 1839 

Flowers, Hydrangea, to make 

Blue 1842 

Flowers of Antimony 4127 

Flowers of Benzoin or Benja- 
min 3942 

Flowers of Sulphur 4354 

Flowers of Zinc 4116 

Flowers, to change the Color 

of 1833,1834 

Flowers, to gild, on Silver-plate 3694 
Flowers, to hasten the Bloom- 
ing of 1825 



Flowers, to preserve, for Per- 

fumei'y 13<B 

Fluid Alloy of Sodium and Po- 
tassium 3455 

Fluid Extracts 4571, &c. 

Fluid Extracts, Classified For- 
mulae for obtaining 4573, &c. 

Fluid Extract of Aconite Leaves4574 
Fluid Extract of Aconite-root. 4575 
Fluid Extract of Allspice (Pi- 
mento) 4579 

Fluid Extract of Bearberry 4577 

Fluid Extract of Belladonna. . .4574 
Fluid Extract of Bittersweet ..4577 
Fluid Extract of Blackberry- 
root 4577 

Fluid Extract of Black Cohosh 

(Cimicifuga Racemosa). 4575, 4592 
Fluid Extract of Blessed- Thistle 

(Carduus Benedictus) 4604 

Fluid Extract of Blood-Root. . 4575 

Fluid Extract of Boneset 4576 

Fluid Extract of Buchu . .4574, 4590 

Fluid Extract of Burdock 4596 

Fluid Extract of Calisaya 4577 

Fluid Extract of CaneUa 4579 

Fluid Extract of Capsicum 4579 

Fluid Extract of Cardamom . . .4579 
Fluid Extract of Chamomile. . .4597 

Fluid Extract of Chiretta 4576 

Fluid Extract of Cinchona .... 4605 

Fluid Extract of Cinnamon 4579 

Fluid Extract of Cloves 4579 

Fluid Extract of Colehicum . . .4576 

Fluid Extract of Columbo 4576 

Fluid Extract of CranesbiU 

(Geranium) 4577 

Fluid Extract of Cubebs 4579 

Fluid Extract of Elecampane. .4579 

Fluid Extract of Ergot 4578 

Fluid Extract of Foxglove (Di- 
gitalis) 4574 

Fluid Extract of Galls 4577 

Fluid Extract of Gentian 4576 

Fluid Extract of Hellebore, 

American 4575 

Fluid Extract of Hellebore, 

Black 4575 

Fluid Extract of Hemlock (Co- 

nium) 4578 

Fluid Extract of Henbane 4574 

Fluid Extract of Hops 4594 

Fluid Extract of Ipecacuanha . 4575 

Fluid Extract of Jalap 4575 

Fluid Extract of Life-root 4602 

Fluid Extract of Liquorice 4595 

Fluid Extract of Lobelia 4578 

Fluid Extract of Lupulin 4579 

Fluid Extract of Mandrake 4575 

Fluid Extract of Matico 4574 

Fluid Extract of May-Apple 

Root 4575 

Fluid Extract of Myn-h 4579 

Fluid Extract of Orris-root 4579 

Fluid Extract of Pareira 4606 

Fluid Extract of Pellitory-root 4579 
Fluid Extract of Pink-root (Spi- 

gelia) 4577 

Fluid Extract of Pipsissewa. . .4577 
Fluid Extract of Prickly-Ash 

Bark 4579 

Fluid Extract of Pomegranate- 
root Bark 4577 

Fluid Extract of Queens-root 

(Stillingia) 4587 

Fluid Extract of Red Bark . . . .4605 
Fluid Extract of Rhubarb, Al- 
kaline 4591 

Fluid Extract of Rhubarb and 

Potassa 4586 

Fluid Extract of SarsapariUa ..4577 

Fluid Extract of Scullcap 4601 

Fluid Extract of Senna and 

Jalap 4603 

Fluid Extract of Seneka 4576, 4593 
Fluid Extract of Snake-root, 

Black (Cimicifuga) . . . 4575, 4592 
Fluid Extract of Snake-root, 

Virginia (Serpentaria) 4576 

Fluid Extract of Squill. . 4576, 4593 

Fluid Extract of Sumach 4600 

Fluid Extract of Thorn-apple 

(Stramonium) 4574 



FLTJ — FRE 



PRE — FUR 



FFR — GAY 



570 



Tluid Extract of Valerian*. 4.")74 

Fluid Extract of Vanilla 4607 

Eluid Extract of Wild-Cherrv 

Bark: "..4589 

Eluid Extract of Yarrow 4588 

Fluid Extract of Yellow-Bark 4577 

Fluid for Sraokin.<r L.-ts 1601 

Fluid Measures, Graci-iated ...5957 

Fluor Spar 3960 

Fluoric Acid 3960 

Tluoric Acid, to obtain 3961 

Fluorides 3960 

Fluxes 3460, &c. 

Flux. Black 3461 

Flux, Cornish refining 3462 

Flux, Cornish reducing 3465 

Flux, Crude 3466 

Flux, for Arsenic 3469 

Flux f jr Copper 3470 

Flux for reducing Lead Ore. . 3464 
Flux for soldering Various Met- 
als 3476, &c., 3531 

Flux for Spelter Solder 3489 

Flux for Welding Metals 3531 

Flux, Fresenius' 3468 

Flux, Liebig's 3467 

Flux, Reducing 3463 

Flux, White 3462 

Foils for Imitation Gems 2447, &c. 

Fomentations 5165, &c. 

Fomentation, Anodyne 5156 

Fomentation, Arnica 5159 

Fomentation, Ordinary 5157 

Fomentation. Stimulating 5160 

Fomentation, Strengthening ...5158 

Fontainemorcau's Bronzes 3448 

Fontanier's Base for Artificial 

Ge-ns 2424 

Food. Chemical 4645 

Food for Mocking Birds, 6190, 6191 
Foot. Lineal, Decimal Equira- 

lents of 5985 

Foot-rot in Cattle, Ointment 

f jr 5001 

Ford's Balsam of Horehound . .5367 
Foreign Weights and Mea- 
sures 60.54, &c. 

Foreign AVeights, <fcc., com- 
pared with American 6055 

Forges AVater 4470 

Forks, French Alloy for 3427 

Forks, to clean 421 

Forks, to fasten Handles on . . .2221 
Forks, to keep, in good order.. 422 

Formiate of Ethyl 4295 

Formic Ether 4295 

Fouchers Dressing for Wounds 5392 

Foundations. Concrete for 2205 

Fountains, Ajutage of 6233 

Fowlers Solution 4804 

Foxglove. Fluid Extract of 4574 

Foxglove. Oil of 4752 

FoxE^love, Tincture of 4490 

Foxing Beer 880 

Foy's Muriatic Acid Chilblain 

Lotion 5398 

Fot's Sulphuric Acid Chilblain 

iiniment 5399 

Frames for Hot-beds, Varnish 

for 2898 

Frames. Picture, to clean 2.)78 

Frangipanni 948 

Frangipanni, Essence or Extrait 

of 948 

Frangipanni Soap 562 

Frank's Solution of Copaiba. . .4801 

Frear Stone 2223 

Freckle Balsam 11 22 

Freckles. Lotions to remore. . .1141 

11.53, &c. 
Freckles, Pomade to remove ..1163 

Freckles, to remove 5884 

Freeman's Vermifuge Oil 5643 

Freezing Mixtures 1687, <fcc. 

French Alloy for Forks, &c.. . .3427 

French Beans. Pickled 1801 

French Bell-?^[etal 3441 

French Binary Weights 6046 

French Binary Weights com- 
pared with "American.. .6047, Sec. 
French Binarv Weights com- 
pared with Metrical 60.50 

French Boot Varnish 2957 



' French Brandy, Imitation 681 

I Frencli Bronze 3786 

French Brown Dye for Cottons 149 
I FrencIi Champagne, Imitation. 722 

j French Cherry 13ouncc 795 

French Chocolate 6276 

French Cognac Bitters 815 

French Coffee, to make 6287 

French Coin Silver 3408 

French Colorless Varnish 2935 

French Hospital Itch Ointment 4955 

French Huiles 1244 

French Liard for Lubrication . .1543 
French Linear Measure, Old. . .6051 

French Lip-Salve 1174 

French Method of Bleaching 

Wax 1580 

French Method of Coloring 

Gold 3197 

French Methods of Waterproof- 
ing 1553, 15.56 

French Metrical Weights, &C.6052 

French Monev 6053 

French Xut-O'il, to detect 1498 

French Pastilles ...1342, &c. 

French Pastilles. Basis for 1341 

French Pepsine Wine 4721 

French Polish 2996, &c. 

French Polish, Spirits for Fin- 
ishing 3006 

lYench Polish, to color or stain 3003 

French Polish, Waterproof 3004 

French Polishing 2981. 2993, &c. 

French Polishing, Rubber for. .2995 

French Pomades 1262 

French Process for Turkey Red 189 

French Silver 3428 

French Syrup of Balsam of Co- 
paiba 4667 

French Syrup of Santonin 4668 

French Washing Composition 6306 
French Weights and Measures 6045 
French- White Dye for Silks. . . 263 
French- Wh?te for the Complex- 
ion 1108 

Frescoes. Glazing for 6315 

Fresenius' Flux 3468 

Fretting in Wines 757 

Frey's Vermifuge 5426 

Friars' Balsam 5091 

Frit for Artificial Gems.. 2352, 2419 

Frit for Enamels 2379 

Frontignac Wine, Imitation. . .6418 

6419. 
Frost Bites. Remedies for, 5643, &c. 

Frosted Beer, to recover 879 

Frothing over in Churning, to 

prevent 6286 

Frozen Potatoes, to remedy 6204 

Fruit Acid 1401 

Fruit Essences. Artificial. 1045, &c. 
Fruit-Stains, toremove,364, &c., 370 

Fruit, to can 1634, <fcc. 

Fruit, to dry 1640 

Fruit, to keep, fresh 1638, 1642 

Fruit, to preserve, in Glycerine, 1643 

Fruit Trees, see Trees. 

Fuch's Soluble Potash Glass... 2817 

Fuch's Soluble Soda Glass 2818 

Fuchsine 2.5.5.3, 2613 

Fuchsine, to dye with 2613 

Fuchsine, to Photograph Avith, 3156 

Fuligokali Ointment 5380 

Fuligokali, to obtain 5381 

Fulminates 2130, (fcc. 

Fidmiuating Antimony 2131 

Fidminating Copper 2135 

Fulminating Gold 2132 

Fulminating Mercury 2134 

Fulminating Powder 2136 

Fulminating Silver 2133 

Fumaric Acid 3967 

Fumigation of Plants 1352 

Fumigation. Pastils for. ..13.37, &c. 

Fuming Liquor 53.53 

Fuming Sulphuric Acid 38.58 

Furnace-Slag, Cement from 2212 

Fumitiu-e, Paste for Polishing, 2988 
2990. 

Furniture, Polish for 2987, <fcc. 

Furniture, to clean. .2985, 2986, 64J 1 

Furniture, to polish 2985, 2987 

Fvumiture, to restore 2978 



Furniture, to take bruises out of 6221 

Furniture, to varnish 2974, &c. 

Furniture, to wax 2992 

Fur-skins, to tan 645, <kc. 

Furs, to clean 650, (fee. 

Furs, to improve 653 

Furs, to preserve, from Moth. . . 654 
Fusel Oil. to free Alcohol from. 1445 

Fusibilitv of Metals 3353 

Fusible Alloys 3456, 3504 

Fusible Alloys, Amalgam of. ..3.'547 

Fusilile Alloys, Moulds of 3679 

Fusion 19 

Galbanum Pills, Compound 4921 

Galena 3253 

Gallates 3905 

Gallic Acid 3905 

Gallic Acid, from Tannin 3907 

Gallic Acid, to distinguish, from 

Tannic Acid 3908 

Gallic Acid, to obtain 3906 

GaUipoli Oil. to detect 1498 

Gallipoli Oil. to test 1 499 

Galls, Fluid Extract of 4577 

Galls in Horses, Lotion for 4855 

Galls, Lotion of 4846 

Galls, Ointment of 5006 

Galls, Tincture of 4561 

Galvanic Battery, Improved Li- 
quid for 3668 

Galvanic Battery, Material for 

Cells 2213 

Galvanic Battery, Principles of, 

Explained 3665 

Galvanic Battery, to amalgamate 

Zinc for 3555, 3662 

Galvanic Battery, to construct a 3666 
Galvanic Batteiy, to Electro- 
type with 3671 

Galvanic Battery, to keep the 

Zinc Amalgamated 3663 

Galvanic Tinning 3751 

Galvanic Troughs, Cement for 2170 

Galvanized Iron 3649 

Galvanized Iron, Test for 37.58 

Game, to keep, fresh 1645 

GannaVs Antiseptic Solution . . 1657 

Ganteine 6332 

Gants Cosmetiques 1176 

Garden, Receipts for the.. 1819, &c. 
Garden-beds, to drive Vermin 

from 1923 

Garden-beds to protect, from 

Snails 1862 

Garden -walks, see Gravel 
Walks. 

Gargles 5063, &c. 

Gargle, Anti-syphilitic 5415 

Gargle, Borax' and Honey 5307 

Gargle. CarboUc Acid. . .". 5066 

Gargle for Diphtheria, &c 5073 

Gargle for Sore Throat. . .5065, &c. 
Garble for Threatened Mortifi- 
cation 5071 

Gargle, Mucilaginous 5070 

Gargle, Potassa 5064 

Gargle to promote Suppuration 5072 

Garlic, Oil of 4752 

Garlic Vinegar 1774 

Garnet Foil 2454 

Garnet, Imitation 2357, 2429 

Garret's Coating forPiUs 5359 

Gams, Elixir de 4717 

Gas 4030, &c. 

Gas Bags, to mend 6392 

Gas, Coal, to detect Sulphur in 4399 
Gas Meters, to keep, from Freez- 
ing 6214 

Gas Pipe, to bend 6316 

Gas, to find the Specific Gravity 

of 49 

Gas, to find the Weight of 4032 

Gas Tubing, India-rubber, to 

make Gas-tight 4033 

Gas, Weight, &c., of 6138 

Gasoline 1527 

Gassicourt's Turpentine Lotion .5401 

Gauge Stuff for Plastering 2200 

Gay-Lussac's Acidimeter 82 

Gay-Lussac"s Alcoholmeter .. .6157 

Gay-Lussac's Alkalimeter 82 

Gay.Lussac's Areometers 6155, 61.56 



580 



GAY — GIL 



GIL — GLA 



GLA— GOL 



G-ay-Lmssac's Ponret 82 

Gay-Lussac's Pyrophorus 4343 

Gedding's Pile Ointment 5254 

Gelatine 4365 

Gelatine, Bone 4367 

Gelatine Capsnles 6338 

Gelatine from Bones 4366 

Gelatine, Patent 4369 

Gelatine, Tests for 4370 

Gelatine TTafers 4369 

G elee pour le Goitre 5271 

Gelseminum, Tincture of 4493 

Gems, Artificial- 2419, &.c. 

Gems. Comparative TTeight and 

Hardness of 6136 

Gems, Imitation 2353 

Gems, Imitation, Foils for, 2447, <fcc. 

Gems, to cement, to Metal 2152 

Gendar and TraUes Compared, 58 

Gendar's Hydrometer 58 

Generator for making Tinegar, 1734 
Generator, Vinegar, to pack a, 1735 
Gentian, Perrophosphorated 

EUxir of - 4725 

Gentian, Fluid Extract of 4576 

Gentian, Tincture of 4569 

Geographical Measure 6010 

George's Myrrhine 5377 

Georee's Preventiye for Pitting 

in Smallpox 5760 

Geranium Cuttings, to manage 1831 

Geranium, Fluid Extract of 4577 

Gerlach's Tables of Soda Solu- 
tions 627 

German Black Salve 5007 

German Bouquet for Beer 882 

German Hard Coating for Troodl683 

German Lip Salve _. ...1175 

German Paste for feeding S'ing- 

iuff Birds 6191 

German Plate 3416 

German Silver 3348. 3409, &c. 

German Silver for Castings 3411 

German Silver for PvoUing 3410 

German Silver. Genuine 3412 

German Silver, Pelouze's 3413 

German Silver, to coat, -svitli Sil- 
ver 3607 

German Silver. to electroplate on3711 
German Silver, to electroplate 

Tvith 3770 

German Soup Tablets 1633 

German Svrup of Ehubarb 4675 

German Tea for the Chest 5425 

German Vinegar Process 1733 

German "Wine, to correct Acid- 

itv in 753 

Gherkins, Pickled 1793 

Ghost Scenes, Fires for ..2078, 2101 

Ghosts, Fire-eating 2101 

Gilding 3556, <fcc. 

GUding. Amalffam for 3533 

Gilding, Brass'Tor 3369, 3370 

Gilding, Burnished 3558 

Gilding by Amalgams 3590 

Gilding, Electro, see Electko- 

GILDIXG. 

Gilding, Fire 3594 

Gilding, Grecian 3577 

Gilding, Leaf 3579 

GildiuGT, Liquid for Cleaning. . .3598 

GildiuGT Metal 3348 

Gilding, Oil 3.570, 3581 

Gilding, Oil Size for. ... - .3571, 3580 

Gilding on Book Edges 3574 

Gilding on Flowers 3694 

Gilding on Glass . . .3575, 3596, 3597 

Gilding on Ivory 2005 

Gilding on Japan-Tvare 3578 

Gilding on Metal 3533, <fcc., 3582, &c. 
Gilding on Metal by Immer- 
sion 3587, &c., 3743 

Gilding on Metal, Solutions 

for 3585, &c. 

Gilding Paste 3593 

Gilding on Picture Frames, Size 

for 3562 

Gilding on SUk 3599 

Gilding on Silver 3577 

Gilding on Steel 3586 

Gilding on "Wood 3557, &c. 

Gilding on "Wood, Implements 

for 3557 



Gilding, to burnish 5566 

Gilding, to finish 3568 

Gliding, to mat or deaden 3567 

Gilding, to prepare Picture 

Frames for 3559, <fec. 

Gliding, to remove, from Old 

China 3595 

GUding, "Water 3584 

Gilding, "^'ater Size for 3572 

Gilding vrith Dutch Metal 3576 

Gilding Tvithout a Batterv 3743. &c. 
Gilt Articles. Test Fluid for . . .3746 
Gut Articles, to dissolve the 

Gold from 3739, &c. 

Gilt Articles, to test 3747 

Gilt Back-ground for Prints, &c,2945 

Gin, Fininlrs for 706 

Gin, Imitation 697 

Gin, Stained, to clarify 708 

Gin, to blanch 705 

Gin, to clarify 704 

Gin, to remove Blackness from 707 

Ginger Beer 893, &c. 

Ginger Beer, Powders for 902 

Ginger, Essence of 4619, &c. 

Ginger, Extract of 1038 

Ginger, Oleoresin of 4584 

Ginger Pop 896 

Ginger Syrup for Soda "Water 1392 

Ginger, Tincture of 4558 

Ginger "Wine 736, &c. 

Ginghams, to preserve the Colors 

of 487 

Girambing (Lemon Ginger- 
Beer) 901 

Glass, Various Eands of . .2339, &c. 
Glass, Amalgam for Silvering, . 3538 

3545. 
Glass, Cem ents for Joining . 2153,2156 
2237, 2247. 

Glass. Coloring for 2361 

Glass, Discolored, to clean 6212 

Glass for Photography. . .3147, 3148 

Glass Bottles, to clean 431 

Glass Bottles, to fill, with Boil- 
ing Liquid 4617 

Glas's Globes, to clean 429 

Glass, Ground, to imitate. 2372, 6408 
Glass, Heated Suddenlv, to keep 

from Cracking '. . .1638, 6210 

Glass, Lead. ..." 2352 

Glass Letters, Cement for 6312 

Glass, Light House 2362 

Glass, Mucilage to adhere to . .2309 

Glass of Antimony 2370 

Glass of Borax 2377 

Glass Paper or Cloth 1933 

Glass, Pencils to write on 6390 

Glass, Soluble, see Soluble Glass. 

Glass, Staining for 2361 

Glass Stoppers, to remove 6206 

Glass, Substitute for, to use in 

Hot-houses 1887 

Glass Syringes, Cement for 2166 

Glass, to clean 417, 6330 

Glass, to break, in any required 

Shape 2368, 2369 

Glass, to clean, for Silvering. . .3621 
Glass, to cut, without a Dia- 
mond 2367, &c. 

Glass, to di-iU 23G6 

Glass, to engrave on 2376 

Glass, to etch on 2374 

Glass, to gild on 3575, 3596, &c. 

Glass, to join, to Metals .2170, 2227, 
2261, 2262. 

Glass, to mend 2156 

Glass, to platinize 3656, 3657 

Glass, to polish Silvered 3622 

Glass, to pulverize 25, 1932 

Glass, to remove Tar, &c., 

from 6422 

Glass, to silver, with Amalgam 3613 
Glass, to silver, by Solutions ... 361 5 

&c., 3631. 
Glass, to transfer Engravings on6335 

Glass, to write on 2371, 2375 

Glass Tubes, to bend 3851 

Glass, Vamish for Engraving on 2959 
Glass Vessels, Lute for Protect- 
ing 2270 

Glass, "Window, to restore the 
Color of. 6211 



I Glauber's Salt 4207 

' Glaze for China and Earthen- 

I ware 2404, «fcc. 

, Glaze for Frescoes 6315 

Glaziers' Solder . . - 3503 

■ Gleet Powder 5314 

Gloss-Finish on Woolens, to re- 
store 469 

Gloss for the Hair 1196 

Gloves, Cosmetic ii7f> 

' Gloves, Kid. to clean 439 

Gloves. Kid. to preserve from 

i Perspiration 6243 

I Gloves, Kid, to remove Stains 
I from 43« 

Glue 2277. <S:.c. 

i Glue, Caseine 2294 

Glue. Elastic 2306 

i Glue, Ether 6385 

Glue, India-rubber 2291, 2293 

; Glue, Isinglass 2292 

Glue, Liquid... 2284, «fec., 2298, 2303 

I Glue, Marine 2291 

I Glue, Mouth 2307 

i Glue, Portable 2308 

! Glue Sizing, to make 2815 

i Glue, to apply 2296 

j Glue, to keep from Souring 2282 

Glue, to prepai'e. for Eeady Use 2283 
I Glue, to prevent, from Cracking 2278 

Glue to resist Moisture. . .2280, 2290 
I Glue, Tungstic 2281 

Glue, Strong, to make 2279 

Glue, Waterproof 2291 

Glycerin atea Lotions, see Lo- 
tions. 
j Glycerinated Ointments, see 

OlN'TMEKTS. 

Glycerine 4359 

I Glycerine Amandine 1119 

! Glycerine Balsam 5095 

; GlVcerine, Caution about 1152 

j Glycei'ine, Commercial 4360 

GlVcerine Composition for Lea- 

j ther 3073 

i Glycerine Cream 1129 

' Glycerine Cream, Pose 1130 

, Glycerine, Deflagrating 2137 

j Glycerine Ink 2471 

i Glycerine JeDy 5225 

GlVcerine Lip-Salve 1173 

GlVcerine Lotions.. 1147, &c., 1150 
il53. 4839. (fcc. 

j Glycerine Paste 2299, 5226 

GlVcerine Eegenerative Hair- 

I "Wash 1181 

Glycerine Soap 570, 574 

Glycerine, Solidified Toilet. ... 6298 
Glycerine, Solvent Power of. . .4361 
GlVcerine Starch or Plasma.. 5009 

Glycerine, Tests for 1151. 4364 

GlVcerine, to preserve Fruit in 1643 

Glycerine, to purify 4362, &c. 

Glycerine, use of, in "Wine 725 

Glycerine Varnish for the Skin 5491 

Glycerinized Collodion 1169 

Glycerole, Is arcotic 5016 

Glyconiiie 5491 

Gnats. Protection against 1916 

Goadby's Antiseptic Solution .. 1665 

GoebeFs Pyrophorus 4344 

Goddard's Aromatic Blackberry 

Syrup 4685 

Goddard's Cure for Loss of 

Voice 5617 

Goddard's Diarrhoea Pemedy.. 5656 
Goddard's Elixir of Valerianate 

of Ammonia 4733 

Goddard's Gonorrhoea Peme- 

dies 5733, 5734 

Godfrey's Cordial 5364 

Goitre JeUy 5271 

Gold 3189 

Gold, Alloys of 3398, <Src. 

Gold Amalgam 3533 

Gold Amalgam, to gild with.. 3534 

Gold, Assay of 3190, &c. 

Gold, Assav of Weights used in 5948 

Gold, Chemically Pure 3193 

Gold, Chlorides of 3725, 4075 

Gold, Coin 3399 

Gold Coijis. to clean 3239 

Gold-color Bronzing Powder. . . 3795 



GOL — GOU 



GOT — GRE 



GRE — GUT 581 



Gold-colored Dro for Silks 2fi8 

Gold-colored Sealinc: Wax 2318 

Gold-colored Staia for Marble. .2041 

Gold-coloriufT for Brass 3390 

Gold-coloring- Solution 3199 

Gold, Counterfeit or Imitation . 3397 
3431, 6364. 

Gold, Cyanide of 3727 

Gold Detergent 3598 

Gold, Ditferent Degrees of Fine- 
ness of 3400, &c. 

Gold Enamel. Black 2398 

Gold, Ethereal Solution of 3585 

Gold Fish, to keep 6189 

Gold, French Method for Color- 
ing 3197 

Gold, Fulminating 2132 

Gold, Grain 3194 

Gold, Green 3404 

Gold, Hard 3398 

Gold Ink 2491 

Gold Labels on Glass Bottles. .2493 

Gold Lace, to clean 414 

Gold Lacquer for Brass, <fec. . .3048 

Gold Leal\ to a pply 3565 

Gold Leaf, to burnish 3566 

Gold Leaf, to mat or deaden. .3567 
Gold Leaf, to prevent, from 

adhering 3573 

Gold Leaf, to pulverize 25, 2517 

Gold, Liquid 2518, 3195 

Gold Lustre for Pottery 2415 

Gold, Mosaic , 6362 

Gold Plating Powder 3591 

Gold Plating Powder, to apply 3592 

Gold, Polishing Powder for 3204 

Gold, SheU 3569 

Gold Size for gilding Wooc , &c,3562 
3580. 

Gold, Solder for 3492 

Gold, Solution of, for Ek ctro- 

gilding 1.726, 3728 

Gold, Solution of, for Gilding 

Steel 3585 

Gold Sprinkle for Eookbinders . 3106 

Gold-Stone. Imitation 2443 

Gold, Talmi 3432 

Gold, Tests for, in Solutions 4076 

Gold, to clean 3202 

Gold, to clean, after soldering . 3200 

Gold, to color 3197, fcc. 

Gold, to distinguish, from Imita- 
tions 3745 

Gold, to recover, from Gilt Arti- 
cles 3739, 3741 

Gold, to recover, from its Solu- 
tions 3158, 3740 

Gold, to restore the Color of 3201 

Gold, to test 4386 

Gold Tracing on Metal 3583 

Gold Watch-Hands, to color. 

Red 3196 

Golden-Brown Hair Dye 1212 

Golden Compound 6364 

Golden Drops 5210 

Golden Rain for Rockets 2056 

Golden Tincture 5251 

Golden-Yellow Hair Dye 1208 

Gondrefs Ammoniacal Oint- 
ment 5477 

Gongs 3446 

Goniometer 3833 

Gonorrhoea, Injection for. 5435, 5438 
&c., 5732, <fcc. 

Gonorrhoea, Pills for 4911 

Gonorrhoea, Remedies for 5731, <fcc. 

Good Samaritan Liniment 4858 

Good Old Samaritan Liniment 5283 
Goose Feathers, to cleanse 659, 6324 
Gooseberry and Currant Wine. .728 

Gooseberry Essence 1056 

Gooseberry Wine 728, 734, 735 

Gouffe's Eau de Cologne 981 

Goulard's Cerato 5476 

Goulard's Extract, Antidote for 5908 

Goulard's Eve-water 5804 

Goulard's Poultice 5030 

Goulard's Water 4776 

Gout Paper 5237 

Gout, Pills for 5182, 5187, 5196, 5318 

Gout, Poultice for 5035 

Gout, Preventive against 5214 

Gout, Wine for 5408 



Govomment Land Measure .'5984 

Goveniment Stamp Mucilage. .2:K)0 

Gowland's Lotion 1155 

Graegor's Copper Coating for 

Iron 3636 

Grafting Clay 1882 

Grafting Wax 1880 

Graham's Bronzing Liquids 3797 

Graham's Neuralgic Liniment 5220 
Grahamc's Elixir of Bismuth .. 5420 
Grahame's Fluid Extract of 

Burdock 4596 

Grahame's Method of Percola- 
tion 4572 

Grain Gold 3194 

Grain Measure, Apothecaries. .5956 
Grain of Paradise, Tincture of. 1021 

Grain Tallow 532 

Grain Tallow Soap 544 

Grain Tin 3316 

Grams compared witli Apothe- 
caries' Weight 6030 

Grams compared with Avoir- 
dupois 6028 

Grams compared with Cubic 

Metres 6027 

Grams compared with. Troy. . .6029 

Granulation 20 

Granville's Counter-irritant Lo- 
tions 5451 

Grape Champagne 6417 

Grape Essence, Artificial 1055 

Grape Syrup 1414 

Grape Wine 728, 734, 740 

Grass, Artificial Manure for. . .1827 

Grass, Dried, to stain 6172 

Grass on d-vftvel Walks, to de- 

stro 1870 

Grass w crms in, to de- 
stroy 1876 

Grass, uO <^JVor Banks with 1886 

Grates, Yz'r±ih. for 2902 

Gravel, Pills for the 5244 

Gravel Walks, Concrete for. . .2207 
Gravel Walks, to destroy Grass 

on 1870 

Gravel Walks, to destroy Weeds 

on 1870, 1875 

Gravel Walks, to destroy Worms 

on 1875 

Gravel Walks, to make 6355 

Gravel Walks, to prevent Weeds 

on 1869 

Gravel Walks, to remove Moss 

from 1861 

Gravers, to temper 3287 

Graves' Gout Preventive 5214 

Grease, Bear's 1277 

Grease for Lubrication.. .1541, &c. 
Grease, French Scouring Drops 

for 354 

Grease, to preserve 536, 6309 

Grease, to remove, from Boards, 395 
Grease, to remove, from Carpets 357 
Grease, to remoA'e, from Cloth . . 345 
Grease, to remove, from Paper. .410 
Grease, to remove, from Silk350,&c. 
Grease, to remove, from Velvet .351 
Grease-Spots, to kill, before 

Painting 2778 

Grease-Spots, to remove 344, &c. 

Greasy Paper, to write on 2506 

Grebe', to clean 656 

Grecian Gilding on SUver 3577 

Greek Fire 2129 

Green and Crimson, to dye 285 

Green and Pink, to dve 284 

Green AnUine Dyes.' 2598, &c. 

Green- Anise Water, to distill. .1071 
1073. 

Green Bengal Lights 2072 

Green Cement 2186 

Green Coloring for Oils 5384 

Green Copying Paper 1948 

Green Dve" for Cottons 161, &c., 188 

Green Dye for Feathers 326 

Green Dye for Ivory 1989 

Green Dye for Leather 6351 

Green Dve for Parchment 1969 

Green Dye for Silks . .276, &c., 317 

Green Dye for Woods 2830 

Green Dye for Woolens ... 206, &*., 
226, 318. 



Greon Enamels 2383 

Green Fire 2078. &c., 2111 

Green Fly on Plants, to remove, 1851 

1854. 
Green Foil for Imitation Gems. 2451 

Green Glazing 8407 

Green Hair-oU 1235 

Green Ink 2495 

Green Lights 2115, 2122 

Green Marbling for Books 3111, 3113 
Green Mould, to remove, from 

Bricks 2803,' 

Green Mountain Salve 5345 

Green Oil 5385^ 

Greon Pig-ments 2691, 2701, 2710 

Green Salve 4970, 4973 

Green Sealing Wax 2324 

Green Stain for Glass 2361 

Green Stain for Marble 2042 

Green Stain for Wood 2860 

Green, to color Fat 1260 

Green Varnish, Transparent ..2941 

Green Vitriol 4146 

Gregory's Powder 5211, 5414 

Gregory's Pure Muriatic Acid 3884 

Grey Cement 2184, 2194 

Grey Dye for Veneers 2841 

Grey Dye for Woods 2836 

Griffin's Tincture for Coughs. .5234 
Grimault's Matico Injection. . .5435 
Grimault's Syrup of Horserad- 
ish 4688, 4689 

Grindstones, Artificial. . .6267, 6268 

Grindstones, how to use 6271 

Gross' Treatment of Burns 5516 

Grosvenor's Tooth Powder 1299 

Ground Glass, to imitate. 2372, 6408 

Groves' Chlorodyne 5202 

Grub in Onions, to prevent 1856 

Gruene's GUding and SHvering 

on Silk 3599 

Guaiacum, Essence of 4623 

Guaiacum, Tincture of ... 4505, 5441 

Guaiacum, Syrup of 4676 

Guanidine 4015 

Guanine 4015 

Guano, Artificial 1825, 1828 

Guano, Liquid 1824 

Guignolet 795 

Gum Arabic, to keep, from 

Moulding 6381 

Gum, Chewing 6317 

Gum Syrup 1371 

Gums, Anti-scorbuticT)entifrice 

for the 1306, 1310 

Gums, Sore, Lotion for 1156 

Gums, to preserve the 5866 

Gums, Ulcerated, Lotion for. . ..5461 
Gums, Washes to harden the. .1328 
Gum-Tragacanth. Test for. ...4384 
Gumming in Fruit Trees.to cure 1873 
Gun, Scattering, to remedy a.. 6299 

Gun-Barrels, to blue 3263 

Gun-Barrels, to brown 3828 

Gun-Barrels, to clean 3304 

Gun-BaiTcIs, to ornament 3264 

Gun-Barrels, to protect, from 

Sea-air 33C5 

Gun-Barrels, Varnish for 2954 

Gun-Cotton 2141 

Gun-Cotton Filter 18 

Gun-Cotton for Collodion 4743 

Gun iVIetal 3348 

Gunpowder 2140 

Gunpowder, Bums from, Treat- 
ment of 5523 

Gunter's Chain 5995 

Gutta-Percha Cement ...2247, 2256 
Gutta-Percha, Cement to unite, 

to Silk, &c 2250 

Gutta-Percha, Cement to imite, 

to Leather 2251 

Gutta-Percha Filling for Teeth,5880 
Gutta-Percha Moulds, to make,3681 
Gutta-Percha Moulds, to pre- 
pare, for Electrotyping 3689 

Gutta-Percha Oil-varnish 2888 

Gutta-Percha Solution, clear.. 2946 

Gutta-Percha, Solvents for 2947 

Gutta-Percha Tissue 6360 

Gutta-Percha, to bleach 1725 

Gutta-Percha, to clean 6349 

Gutta-Percha, to dye 6347 



582 GUT— HAR 



HAR — HOM 



HOM — HYD 



Gutta-Perclia, White 5881 

Gypsum, see Plaster of Paris. 

Haerlem Drops 5342 

Hager's Vermin. Ointment 5395 

Hahnemann's Test for Lead in 

TTine 4402 

Hair, Black PoTrder for the 1103 

Hair, Blonde Powder for the. . . 1104 
Hair, Depilatories for removing 1219 
Hair. Pomades for Strengthen- 
ing the 1279, &c. 

Hair, Prepared Bran for the . . . 1102 
Hair, Eose Bandoline for the.. 1195 

Hair, to bleach 1214 

Hair, to change the Color of. . .1215 

Hair, to dry a Lady's 1197 

Hair Brushes and Combs, to 

clean 416 

Hair-Cleansing Liquids 1187 

Hair-Colorinf? 1216 

Hair-Cosmetics, Caution about, 1286 

Hair-Curling Liquids 1191 

Hair-Darkening Preparations 1183 

Hair-Dyes 1198, &c. 

Hair-Dye, Black 1201, 6401 

Hair-Dye, Black, to use 1202 

Hair-Dye, Blonde 1206 

Hair-Dye, Brown 1211, (fee. 

Hair-Dye, Caution in applying. 1213 

Hair-Dye, Flaxen 1206 

Hair-DVe, Pyrogallic 1200 

Hair-Dye, Eed 1204 

Hair-Dye, Walnut 1199 

Hair-Dye, Yellow 1208, &c. 

Hair-Dye Stains, to remove... 385 

Hair-Gloss 1196 

Hair-Oils, Cheap 1249 

Hair-Oil, Colorless 1231 

Hair-Oil for Strengthening the 

Hair 1250, &c. 

Hair-Oil. French 1244 

Hair-OU, to color 1232 

Hair-OH, to perfume 1230 

Hair-Restorer 1217 

Hair-Tonic 1180 

Hair- Varnish 2892 

Hail-- Washes 1177, <fec. 

Hair- Wash, Cleansing 1187, (fee. 

Hair- Wash, Curling 1191 

Hair- Wash, Darkening... 1183, (fee. 

Hair- Wash, Drying 1194, 1197 

Hair- Wash. Bestorative . . 1177, 1179 

Hair- Wash, Softening 1186 

Hair-Wash, Strengthening 1180 

-Half-Hitch Knot. Double 6264 

Hall's Dinner PiUs 5181 

Hall's Solution of Strychnia 5354 

HaUs, Stone, to clean 428 

Hamburg Bitters 828 

Hamburg Tea 5418 

Hamilton's Tincture of Dog- 
wood, 4553 

Hams, Pickle for 1603, 16G8 

Hams, to cure 1G06 

Hams, to preserve 1613 

Hams, to smoke 1600 

Handles of Knives, to keep, from 

Cracking 6323 

Hands. Cacao Pomade for the. .1136 

Hands, Chapped, to cure 5822 

Hands, to prevent, from Chap- 
ping 5822 

Hands, to remove Stains from 

the 387, 2566, 3141 

Hard and Soft Soap 520 

Hard Soap, to make 520, &c., 582, <fcc. 

Hard Soap, to pulverize 619 

Hard Soldering 3488, &c. 

Hardwich's Photographic Ton- 
ing Bath 3184 

Hare's Colorless Photograph 

Varnish 2932 

Hare's Pyrophorus 4342 

Harlands Gonorrhoea Beme- 

dies 5731, 5732 

Harmaline 4009 

Harmine 4009 

Harness, Blacking for 3081, &c. 

Harness Blacking, to apply . . .3085 
Harness, Cement for Joining . .2245 

Harness, Jet for 3079 

Harness, Polish for 3075 j 



Harness, to clean 3074 

Harness, to preserve, 3074 

Harness, to restore the Lustre 

of 3066 

Harness, to soften, when Hard 3067 

Harness. Varnish for 2966 

Han-ogate Water 4466 

Hartshorn, to purify 1293 

Harvey's Sauce 1758 

Hat-Black Dye for Silks 240 

Hats, Alkali Stiffening for 336 

Hats, Spirit Stiffening for 335 

Hats, to dye 334 

Hausmann's Indestructible Ink 2527 

Hay Fever. Treatment of 5591 

Hayes' Pile Liniment 5219 

Headache, Essence for 5229 

Headache. Bemedies for. .5702, &c. 

Heading for Beer 876 

Healing Paper 5059 

Healing Salve 4971 

Health Pills 5188, 5199 

Heart. Palpitation of, to relieve, 5766 

Heartburn, Treatment of 5690 

Heat, Amount of, for boiling 

Syrups 1361 

Heat conducting Power of Build- 
ing Materials 6125 

Heavy Spar 2697 

Heliotrope, Eau de 1003 

Hellebore. American, Fluid Ex- 
tract of 4575 

Hellebore, American, Tincture 

of 4496, 4515 

Hellebore, Black, Fluid Extract 

of 4575 

Hellebore, Black. Tincture of .4506 

Hemlock, Fluid Extract of 4578 

Hemlock Liniment 4859 

Hemlock, Oil of 4752 

Hemlock Poultice 5034 

Hemlock Salve 4969 

Hemlock, Syrup of, Compoimd.4681 

Hemlock, Tino<Tire of 4489 

Hemorrhage, Prepared Cotton 

for 5.560 

Hemorrhage, Solution for 4816. 5429 
Hemorrhage, Treatment of 5556, <fcc. 

Hemp, Tincture of 4485 

Hempseed Oil, Tests for.. 1497. 1498 

Henbane, Fluid Extract of 4574 

Henbane, Oil of 4752 

Henbane, Tincture of 4511 

Henderson's Lotion for Corns. . 5329 

Henry's Aromatic Vinegar 1086 

Henry's Magnesia 5230 

Herbarium, to form a 6176 

Herb Drink for Fevers 5136 

Herbs, Soup, Extract of 1044 

Herbs, to extract Essential Oil 

from 46 

Herbs, to gather and dry 6240 

Herbs, to preserve, for Perfum- 

eiT 1349 

Hermetical Sealing for Bottles 2238 

Heusler's Bed Ink 2498 

Heyle's Horse Embrocation . . .5222 
Hickory-Xut Flavoring for Li- 
quors 671 

Hicgins' Stucco 2201 

Hiarh Wine 1435 

Hill's Balsam of Honey 5231 

Hirzel's Mode of Preserving 

Fats 1515 

Hive Syrup 5273 

Hoarseness, Cure for 5617, Sec. 

Hoarseness, Syrup for 5249 

Hoarseness, to prevent 5621 

Hock Syrup 1423 

Hodgen's Stomach-Pump 5917 

Hoffmann's Aniline Purple 2608 

Hoffmann's Anodyne 4749 

Hoffmann's Life Balsam 5112 

Hogg's Pepsine PiUs 5460 

Hog's Lara, see L-\rd. 
Hogs, Live, Weight of Pork in 6129 
Hogs, to drive Fleas from .... 1913 
Holland, Weights and Measures 

of 6090 

Holland Linen, Sizing for 6328 

Holloway's Ointment 5368 

Holloway's Pills .5369 

Homberg's Pyrophorus 4341 



Home-Made Champagne. .730, 641'7 

Home-Made Soap 549, 551 

Home-Made Tallow Candles .. 631 

Home-Made Wines 727, &c. 

Homoeopathic Cholera Prevent- 
ive 5671 

Homoeopathic Cholera Eemedy 5672 
Homoeopathic Mustard Plaster 5056 
Hones, Lubricators for... 6270, 6272 

Hones, to face 6274 

Honey 1565. &c. 

Honey and Almond Paste ... 1134 
Honey, Artificial... 1572, 1574.6416 

Honey, Balsam of 5093, 5231 

Honey, Cosmetic Balsam of . . .1121 

Honey, Cuba 1573 

Honey of Borax 4695 

Honey of Eoses 4694 

Honey of Violets 4696 

Honey, Test for 1576 

Honey, to clarify.. ..1569, &c., 4693 

Honey, to purify 1566, &c. 

Honey Water 1006 

Honey Wine 733 

Honey-Soap, Imitation 561 

Honey-Soap, to make 560 

Honeysuckle Pomade 1263 

Hoof, Cracked, Ointment for ..5002 

Hooks and Eves, to silver 3608 

Hooper's Female Pills 5382 

Hope's Camphor Mixture 5387 

Hope's Cough Mixture 5611 

Hops, Fluid Extract of 4594 

Hops, Tincture of 4510 

Horehound, Balsam of ...5092, 5367 

Horn .2012 

Horn, to dye 2013 

Horn, to imitate Tortoiseshell 

with 2016 

Horn, to polish 2019 

Horn, to prepare 2014 

Horn, to sUver 3628 

Horn, to unite 2015, 2018 

Hornet Stings, to cure 5927 

Horsemint, Essential Oil of 1465 

Horseradish, Syrup of 4688 

Horseradish, Syrup of, lodin- 

ized 4689 

Horseradish Vinegar 1773 

Horseradish Water, to distiU. .1071 
1073. 

Horse Liniment 4896, 5222 

Horses, to banish Fleas from.. 1913 

Horses, to keep Flies from 1924 

Horsleys Chlorodyne 520.5 

Hortus Siccus, to form a 6176 

Hot Drops 517» 

Hot Drops for Beer 891 

Hot-Houses, Substitute for Glass 

for 1887 

House-Painting 2745, &c., 2756 

House-Painting, Flatting for. -2753 
House-Painting", Inside Work 2751 
House-Painting, Outside Work.2749 
House-Painting, Preparing for 2746 
House-Painting, when to do... 275.5 

Houses. Old. to paint 2773 

Hubbell's Cream Syrup 1428 

HubbeU's Extract of Calisaya. .4706 

HubbeUs Wine of Iron 470.5 

Huckleben-v Wine 728 

Hudson's Cold Cream 1126 

Hufeland's Anti-catan"h Elixir,5447 

Hufeland's Aperient Elixir 5446^ 

Hufeland's Diuretic Drops 5311 

Hufeland's Infant Powder 5450 

Hufeland's Pectoral Elixir 5445 

Hufeland's Zinc Cerate 5379 

Huile a I'Ambre 1240 

Huile a la VaniUe 1239 

Huile d' Ambergris 1240 

HuUe Musquee 1236 

Huile Eoyale 1237 

Huiles, lYench 1244 

Hungarian Liniment 4867, 5473 

Hungarian Pomade 1287 

Hunter's Bougie 6370 

Hunter's Bed Drop 5411 

Husson, Eau M6dicinale de. ..52(8 
Hyacinth Boots, to preserve . . 1888 
Hyacinths, to raise, in Winter 1840 
Hydrangea Cuttings, to man- 
age 1842 



HYD — IND 



IND — TNK 



IXK — IRO 



►83 



■Hydrangea Flowers, to make, 

Blue 1842 

Hydrate of Alumina 4257 

Hydrate of Chloral 4276 

Hydrate of Chloral, Syrup of -.4679 
Hvdrate of Chloral, to adminis- 
ter 4746 

Hydrate of Chloral, to purify.. 4278 

Hydrate of Lime 3994 

Hydrate of Phenylc 3916 

Hydrate of Potassa 3976, 41 92 

Hydrate of Soda 3979 

Hydraulic Cement 2174 

Hydriodates 3970, 4326 

Hydriodate of Quinine 4264 

HVdriodate Solution for Photo- 
graphy 3183 

Hydriodic Acid 3970 

Hydriodic Acid, Dilute 3972 

Hydriodic Acid, to obtain 3971 

Hydrobromates, see Bromides. 

Hydrobromic Acid 4261 

Hydrochlorates, see Muriatp:s. 
Hydrochloric Acid, see Muri- 
atic Acid. 

Hydrocyanates 3947 

Hydrocyanic Acid, see Puussic 
Acid. 

Hydroferridcyanic Acid 3954 

Hydro ferrocyanic Acid 3956 

Hydrofluorates 3960 

Hydrofluoric Acid 3960 

Hydrogen 4041 

Hydrogen, Carburetted 4048 

Hydrogen, Phosphuretted 4055 

Hydrogen, Sulphuretted. 3870, 4052 

Hydrogen, Tests for 4047 

Hydrogen, to obtain 4042, &c. 

Hydrographic Paper 1976 

Hydrometers, Standard 53, &c. 

Hydrometers, see Areometers. 
Hydrophobia, Cures for.. 5920, &c. 

Hydrophobia, to prevent 5923 

Hydrophobia, Treatment of. ..5919 
Hydrosulphate of Ammonia. . . 1203 
Hydrosulphides. See Hydro- 

SULPHURETS. 

Hydrosulphuret of Ammonia.. 1203 
Hvdrosulphuret of Ammonia, 

'Solution of 4803 

Hydrosulphuret of Amraonium4228 

Hydrosulphm-ic Acid 3870 

Hydrochloric Ether 4290 

Hydrochlorite of Lime 4245 

Hypochlorite of Soda Solution 4788 
Hypochondriasis, Treatment of .5.577 

Hyponitric Acid 3872 

Hyponttrous Acid Disinfectant 1697 
Hypophosphites, Compound Sy- 
rup of 4643, &c. 

Hypophosphite of Iron 4642 

Hypophosphoric Acid 3928 

Hyposulphite of Lime 4248 

Hyposulphite of Soda 4211 

Hyssop Water, to distill, 1071, 1073 

Ice, Camphor 1132 

Ice, to keep, in Summer 1691 

Igneous Fusion 19 

Ignition 3850 

Imitations, see article imitated. 

Inperial Peach Brandy 786 

Imperial Pop 900 

Imperial Weights and Mea- 
sures 6031, Sec. 

Implements for GUding on 

Wood 3557 

Incense 1346, <fcc. 

Inches Compared with Metres. 5977 
Inches, Decimal Equivalents of5979 
In:;ontin(Mice of Urine, to cure 5743 
Incrustations, see Boiler Ix- 
crustatioxs. 

Indelible Inks 2508, &c. 

Indelible Ink Stains, to remove. 129 
385, 6340. 

Indelible Marking Ink 2508, &c. 

Indelible Printing Ink 2;546 

Indelible Writing Fluid 2489 

Indestructible Inks 2.526, &,c. 

India Japanning 3038, &c. 

India Xut-oil, Test for 1497 

India-Eubber. Cement to join. 2255 i 



India-Hubber Glue 2293 

India-Rubber Oil Varnish 2886, <fec. 
India-Rubber Over-shoes, to 

mend 2258, 6374 

India-Rubber, Solvents for 2947 

India-Rubber Spirit-varnish . . 2949 
2952. 

India-Rubber, to dissolve 2248 

India-Rubber, to join, to Wood 

or Metal 2253 

India-Rubber Tubing, to ren- 
der. Gas-tight 4033 

Indian Cathartic PiUs 5303 

Indian Curry Powder 1760 

Indian Dysentery Cure .5676 

Indian or Chinese Ink 2515 

Indian Ink Sketches, to pro- 
tect 6363 

Indian Liniment 5228 

Indian Pickle 1805 

Indian Red 2718 

Indian Remedy forRheumatism5536 

Indian Turnip Poultice 5028 

Indian Vegetable PUls 5186 

Indian White Fire 2104 

Indigo-Blue Dye for Tarn 130 

Indigo Extract 99 

Indigo, Solution of 4791 

Indigo, Solvents for 2619, 3858 

Indigo, Sulphate of 98, 4791 

Inexhaustible Smelling Salts. .1093 

Inextinguishable Match 2061 

Infant Powder 5450 

Infant Preservative 5352 

Infants, Diarrhoea in, to cure. 5661 
5666. 

Infection, to prevent 1707, 1708 

Inflamed Parts, Lotion for 4823 

Inflammation of the Ear, Rem- 
edy for 5813 

Inflammation of the Throat, see 
Gargles. 

Influenza, Mixture for 5623 

Infusion 37 

Infusions, to prepare 38 

Infusion, Diuretic 5148 

Infusion of Bark 5128 

Infusion of Calumba 5121 

Infusion of Roses 4739 

Infusion, Tonic 5120 

Infusion, to perfume Oils by . . . 1228 
Infusion, to perfume Pomades 

by 1262 

Infusion to produce Sweating. 51 38 

Ingall's Iodoform Ointment 4992 

Inhalation of Cubebs and Car- 
bolic Acid 5606 

Inhalation of Tar 5(51 3 

Injection for Gonorrhoea 5435, 5438 

5439. 
Injection, to salt Meat bv. . . .1604 

Ink 2460, <fcc, 6406 

Ink, Aniline 2497, 2511 

Ink Blots, to remove 2507, 6393 

Ink, Colored, see Color desired. 

Ink, Copying 2520 

Ink, Drawing 2531 

Ink Eraser, Improved 6393 

Ink for Hand-stamps 2532 

Ink for Marking Packages 2521 

Ink for Tombstones 2516 

Ink for Writing on Silver. . . .2525 

Ink for Writing on Tin 6365 

Ink for Writing on Zinc 2523 

Ink, Indelible Marking.. 2489, 2509 

&c., 2.332. 
Ink, Indelible, to remove Stains 

of 385, 6340 

Ink, Indestructible 2526, fcc. 

Ink, Lithographic 2547 

Ink, Permanence of 2475 

Ink Powder 2474 

Ink, Printers' 2.543 

Ink, Printers', to remove 404 

Ink, Stencilincr 6366 

Ink, Sympathetic 2533, &c. 

Ink, to keep, from thickening. .2476 
Ink. to prevent, from moulding 24 G2 
Ink, to remove, from Books... 412 

Ink, Writing 24CI, <fcc. 

Ink-Rollers, Composition for..2.>ll 

Ink-Rollers, to clean 2542, 6337 

Ink-Stains on Floors, to remove 392 



Ink-Stains on Linen, &c., to re- 
move 375, 379, 384 

Ink-Stains on Mahogany, to re- 
move 389, <fec. 

Ink-Stains on Marble, to re- 
move 402, 515 

Ink-Stains on Silver, to remove. 3236 

Inlaid Brass, to polish 2982 

Inscriptions on Old Coins, to 

develop 6237 

Insect Bites and Stings, to cure 5927 
Insects on Plants, to destroy.. 1845 

Insects, Soap to destroy '. .. 580 

Insects, to destroy 1900. 1908 

Insects, to mount, for the Mi- 
croscope 6179 

Insects, to preserve 1676 

Intermittent Fever, Rcmcuv .,:r5756 
Invisible-Green Dye .or W.>>}^- 

ens 227 

lodates 3968 

Iodic Acid 3968, 3969 

Iodides 3970, 4326 

Iodide of Ammonium 4225 

Iodide of Cadmiimi 4262 

Iodide of Iron 4161 

Iodide of Iron, Liquor of 4703 

Iodide of Iron Pills 4915, 4930 

Iodide of Lead 4103 

Iodide of Lead Ointment 4991 

Iodide of Potassium 4203 

Iodide of Potassium, Glycerin- 

ated 5013 

Iodide of Potassium, Lotion of. 1143 

1144. 
Iodide of Potassium, Glycero- 

Pomade of 5373 

Iodide of Potassium, Solution of 4779 
Iodide of Potassium, Syrup of, 

with Iron 4663 

Iodide of Sodium 4216 

Iodide of Sulphur Ointment 4950 

Iodine 4326, 4327 

Iodine, Caustic 5077 

Iodine, Glycerinated 5015 

Iodine Green Aniline Dye 2600 

Iodine Lotion 4851 

Iodine Lotion, Glycerinated.. 1144 
Iodine Lotion, for the Skin. . .1143 
Iodine Ointment, Com pound.. 4942 

Iodine Paint 5077 

Iodine, Solution of 5421 

Iodine, Tests for 4329 

Iodine, Tincture of 4491 

Iodine, Tincture of, Compoimd 4.570 
Iodine, to dissolve, in Cod-liver 

Oil 4.3S8 

Iodine, to prevent, from Stain ing5078 

Iodine-Stains, to remove 371 

Iodized Paper for Photography 3171 

Iodoform Ointment 4992 

lodurets, see Iodides. 
loduretted Gaseous Water 4477, 4478 
Ipecacuanha, Fluid Extract of 4575 
4599. 

Ipecacuanha, Syrup of 4651 

Ipecacuanha, Syrup of. Com- 
pound 4^82 

Iridescent Paper 1931 

Irish Whiskey, Imitation 690 

Iron 3258 

Iron, Acetate of 4159 

Iron, Ammonio-citrate of 4162 

Iron, Ammonio-pyrophosphate 

of 4737 

Iron Bath-tubs, to paint 6219 

Iron Beams, Weight of 6145 

Iron, Boiler, Weight of 01 42 

Iron, Brown Tint for 3262 

Iron, Carbonate of. Saccharine 4163 

Iron, Carburet of 41C4 

Iron, Cast, to bronze 3261. 3791 

Iron, Cast, to scour 3271 

Iron, Cast, to solder 3515 

Iron, Cements for 2216, <fcc. 

Iron, Cement tojoin Leather to 22.59 
Iron, Cement to join Stone to. .2211 

2215, 2222. 
Iron, Chlorides of... 117, 4165, 4166 

Iron, Citrate of 4160 

Iron, Composition for Welding 3523 

Iron, Fcrridcyanide of 4169 

Iron, Ferrocyanide of 4167 



584r iRo — 1^0 



IVO — KAL 



KEA — LAC 



Iron [Filings 3265 

Iron, I^lux for Soldering. 3477, 3531 

Iron, riux for Welding 3531 

Iron, Hypophosphite of 4642 

Iron, Iodide of 4161 

Iron, Lacquer for 3059 

Iron Liquor 118 

Iron Lustre for Pottery 2416 

Iron, Mixture of, Aromatic 4712 

Iron, Mixture of, Compound. . .5248 

Iron-Mould, to remove 375, &c. 

Iron-Mould, to remove, from 

Marble 402 

Iron, Muriates of 4165 

Iron, Mtrates of 116, 4171, &c. 

Iron Ores, Percentage of iron in3259 

Iron, Oxalate of 4158 

Iron, Oxides of 4151, 4153, &c. 

Iron, Phosphate of 4631 

Iroa Pills, Compound 4916 

Iron Plates, Weight of 6140 

Iron, Polished, to case-harden . 3300 

Iron Pyrites 4148 

Iron, Pyrophosphate of 4737 

Iron Quinia and Strychnia, Sy- 
rup of 4648 

Iron Railings, to preserve 3270 

Iron Sand for Fireworks 2105 

Iron, Sheet, Weight of 6141 

Iron, Solder for 3512, 3516 

Iron Stains, to remove 127, 375, &c. 

Iron, Sulphate of 4146 

Iron, Sulphurets of 4053, 4147 

Iron, Tannate of 4170 

Iron, Test for Galvanized 3758 

Iron, Test for, in Solutions 4100 

Iron, to case-harden 3297, &c. 

Iron, to clean 3272 

Ij an, to coat, "with Copper 3635, &c. 

3756. 
Ion, to coat, with Silver. 3608. 3610 

3715. 
Iton, to coat, with Tin... 3638, &c. 
Iron, to coat, Avith Zinc. 3649, 3757 

Iron, to color 3188, 3313 

Iron, to convert, into Steel 3274, 3277 
Iron, to distinguish, from Steel. 3260 

Iron, to electro-gild on 3731 

Iron, to electroplate on 3711 

Iron, to galvanize 3649 

Iron, to Leep, bright 3267 

Iron, to prepare, for Coating 

witli Copper 3756 

Iron, to prepare, for Tinning. .3641 
Iron, to prevent, from Eusting 3268 

Iron, to remove Eust from 3266 

Iron, to solder 3485, 3510 

Iron, to tin, for Soldering 3514 

Iron, to weld 3523 

Iron, Varnish for 2956 

Iron Vessels, to tin 3638 

Iron, Wine of 4705 

Iron, Wiue of. Aromatic 4708 

Iron, Wine of, Bitter 4704, 4707 

Iron- Ware, White Enamel for. 2403 
Iron- Work, Black Varnish for 2900 

Iron- Work, Paint for 2768 

Iron- Work, Priming for 2747 

Iron, Wrought, Weight of.... 6144 
Ironing Clothes, Directions for 503 

Irritating Plaster 5062 

Irritation, Cazenave's Lotion to 

allay 1153, 1158, &c. 

Isinglass Glue 2283, 2292 

Isinglass for fining Wines 716 

Isinglass, to fine Wines with. 743 

Issue Ointment 5284 

Italian Method of Bleaching 

Wax 1581 

Italian Tamara 17G1 

Italian Varnish 2896 

Itch, Baker's, Ecmedy for 5484 

Itch, Benzine for the 5481 

Itch, Cure for the 5480 

Itch, Prairie, Pemedy for 5479 

Itch, Ointment for the.. .4954, 4999 

5239, 5243, 5322. 
Itch, Seven Tears, Pemedy for 5479 

Ivory, Artificial 2010, 3180 

Ivory Black 2719 

Ivory, Cement for 2247 

Ivory, Etching on 2002 

Ivory, Flexible 1994 



I Ivorv, Marking Fluid for 2001 

Ivory-Size 2009 

Ivory, to bleach 1997, &c. 

Ivory, to clean 2007 

Ivory, to dye, seeCoLORtobedyed. 
Ivory, to dye, when softened. .1995 

Ivory, to gild 2005 

Ivory, to polish 2000 

Ivory, to silver 2006 

Ivory, to whiten, when TeUow 1998 

Ivory Veneers, to glue on 2297 

Ivy, Poison, Pemedies for 5930 

Jackson's Cure for Rheuma- 
tism 5538 

Jackson's Neuralgia Remedy. .5547 

Jackson's Pectoral Syrup 5265 

Jacobson's Red Aniline Dyes. .2612 
Jalap and Senna, Fluid Extract 

of 4603 

Jalap, Fluid Extract of 4575 

Jalap, Tincture of 4559 

Jamaica Ginger, Essence of. . .4620 

Jamaica Rum, Imitation 702 

James' OU of Gladness 5344 

Japan Black Varnish for Lea- 

tlier 2968, 2969 

Japan Blacking for Boots 3098 

Japan, Chinese, Ground for 3039 

Japan, Chinese, to raise Figures 

on 3042 

Japan, Chinese, to trace Designs 

on 3041 

Japan Dryer 2741 

Japan, to color. Blue 3027 

Japan, to color, Brown 3036 

Japan, to color. Green 3030 

Japan, to color. Orange 3031 

Japan, to color. Pink 3033 

Japan, to color. Purple 3034 

Japan, to color. Red 3028 

Japan, to color, Violet 3035 

Japan, to color. White 3032 

Japan, to color, Yellow 3029 

Japan, to. Fancy Articles 3043 

Japan, to gild 3578 

Japan, to. Old Tea-trays 3037 

Japan, to, Work Boxes 3043 

Japan Varnish 3022, &c. 

Japan Varnish, to color.. 3026, &c. 

Japanese Cement 2159 

Japanese Firework Mixtui-es..2127 

Japanese Ink 2473 

Japanese Matches 2126 

Japanese Wax, to detect Bees'- 

waxin 1583 

Japanned Waiters, to clean... 408 

Japanning 3018,&c. 

Japanning, India or Chinese . . 3038 
Japanning, to prepare Metal 

for 3019 

Japanning, to prepare Wood 

for 3020 

Jarave Spanish 5331 

Jargonelle Pear, Essential Oil 

of 1470, 4302 

Jasmin, Esprit Odorant de 1004 

Jasmin Pomade 1263 

Javelle Water 4787, 6414 

Jean Boots, White, to clean . . 453 

Jesuits' Drops 5091, 5338 

Jet-Black Dye for Cottons 139 

Jet-Blacking for Boots. . .3079, 3089 

Jet-Blacking for Harness 3079 

Jewelers' Cement 2152, 2229 

Jewelers' Rouge 4154 

Jockey Club Bouquet 1064 

Joint 'Closers or Caps, Water- 
proof 1557 

Jonquil Pomade 1263 

Joseau'^ Copahine-Mege 5366 

Journals of Machinery, AHoy 

for 3430 

Juices, Vegetable, to obtain. . . 45 

Julian Tear 6064 

Juniper, Compound Spirit of. . .5151 

Jimiper, Essential Oil of 1465 

Juniper-Berrv', Oil of 4752 

Juniper-Berry Water 1071, 1073 

Kalsomine . . . 2793 

Kalsomine, to prepare 2*794 

Kalsomining. 2795 



Heating's Cough Lozenges 534f5 

Keene's Marble Cement 2209 

Keller's Ai'menian Cement 2153 

Keller's Bronze 3348 

Kelp 4208, 4330 

Kermes Mineral 5467 

Kerosene, Cause of Explosion 

of 1530 

Kerosene, Fire Test 1527 

Kerosene, to clarify 1528 

Kerosene, to decolorize 1529 

Kerosene, to keep 6216 

Kerosene, to test 1531 

Kerosene Lamps, see Lamps. 

Kerosene Vessels, to clean 1537 

Ketchups, see Catsups. 

Kettles, Old Copper, to tin 3646 

Kettles, to prevent Crust in. ..6382 
Keyer's Process for Purifying 

Oils 1511 

Kid Boots, to clean 454 

Kid Gloves, to clean 439 

Kid Gloves, to protect, from 

Perspiration 6243 

Kid Gloves, to remove Stains 

from 438 

Kid Gloves, Old, to clean Silkg 

with 456 

Kidneys, Diseased, to cure 5742 

Kindlers, Fii-e, to make. .6205, 6402 

King's Cordial 5227 

King's Tooth Paste 1322 

King's TeDow 4356 

Kino, Tincture of 4512, 4556 

Kino, Tincture of. Com pound,. 4502 
4557. 

KirchofTs Vermilion 2681 

Earkland's Neutral Cerate 5378 

Kirkland's Tooth Lotion 1332 

Kirschenwasser 788 

Kissingen Water, Aerated 4443 

Kitchen Garden Receipts 1819, &c. 
Kitcheners Essence of Soup- 
herbs 1763 

Kitchener's Peristaltic Persua- 
der 5173 

Kitchener's Sauce Superlative 1756 

Kitridge's Salve 5372 

Knife-Handles, to keep, from 

Cracking 6323 

Knives and Forks, to clean. 1.. 421 
Knives and Forks, to keep, ie 

Order 422 

Knives, to fasten the Handles 

on 2221 

Knives, to remove Stains from 6322 

Knots, various, to tie 6260 

Knots, to kill, before Painting 2777 
Knots for tying down Corks:.. 930 

Knots for tying Parcels 6266 

Knot, Binding 6263 

Knot, Bowline 6265 

Knot, Half, or Clove-Mtcli 6264 

Knot, Reef 6262 

Knot, Sheet Bend, orWeaver's. 6261 

Kreatine 4013 

Blreatinine 4013 

Kjieder's Ague PiUs 5581 

Kummel, Doppel 769, 6292 

Kurten's Soda Lye 589 

Kustitien 's Metal for Tinning 3453 
Kyanize Wood or Cordage, to. 1681 

Labarraque's Disinfecting 

Fluid 4788 

Labarraque's Solution 4788 

Labels, Enamels for 2401 

Labels, for Damp Situations ... 6326 
Labels, Ind cstructible Ink for 2526 

Labels, Mucilage for 2299, 2301 

Labels, Zinc, Ink for 2524 

Labor-Saving Soap 616 

Lac Sonrlet Dye for Woolens.. 200 

Lac, to bleach 1723 

Lac Water- varnish 2940 

Lace, Point, to wash 478 

Lace, Silver or Gold, to clean.. 414 

Lace, Thread, to clean 473 

Lace, to clear-starch 501 

Lace -Veils, Black, to wash 406 

Lace -Veils White, to clean... 471 

Lace, White Silk, to wash 472 

Lacquers and Lacquering. 3045^ <fec. 



LAC — LEA 



LEA — LEN 



LEN— LIN 585 



Lacqner, Black, for Brass 3387 

JLacquer, to give any Tint to..3U03 

Lactates 3958 

Lactate of Iron, Syrup of 4661 

Lactic Acid 3958 

Lactic Acid, to obtain 3959 

Lactucarium, Syrup of 4666 

Ladies' Summer Suits, to-n'asli.64r2 
Lahaclie's Syrup of Iodide of 

Potassium and Iron 4663 

Lait Virginal 1133 

Lakes used for Pigments. .2683,,&c. 

Lamp, Self-igniting 6389 

Lampblack 2717 

Lamp-Chimneys, to prevent, from 

Cracking C373 

Lamps, Kerosene, Cement for, . C?60 
Lamps, Kerosene, to cement 

Sockets on 1536 

Lamps, Kerosene, to clean 1533 

Lamps, Kerosene, to keep, from 

getting Greasy 1535 

Lamps, Kerosene, to manage.. 1534 
Lamps, to purify Vegetable 

Oils for 1494 

Lancon's Paste for Artificial 

Gems 2426 

Land, Level, to drain 1891 

Land Measure, Government ... 5984 
Langlois' Process for Carmine. 2677 

Lapis Divinus 5296 

Lapis Lazxili, Imitation 2440 

Lapis Miraculosus 5297 

Lard 525, 1518 

Lard, Benzoated 1521 

Lard, to bleach 1522, &c. 

Lard, to detect TVater in 1520 

Lard, to purify 1253 

Lard, to trv out 1519 

Lard Candles, to make 636 

Lard Oil, to detect, in Poppy 

Oil 1498 

Lard Ointment 4337 

Lardner's Prepared Charcoal. .1294 

Lardner's Tooth Powder 1294 

Larkin's Bronzing Fluids 3817 

Lartigue's Gout Pills 5196 

Last, English Measure 6041 

Lasteyrie's Lithographic Cray- 
ons 1958 

Laudanum 4529, 5370, 54G8 

Laughing Gas .3872, 4060 

Laughing Gas, Test for Pure.. 4062 

Laughing Gas, to prepare 4061 

Laurence's Hemorrhage Solu- 
tion 5429 

Laurence's Styptic Solution ...5430 

Laurent's Antiseptic Soap 1671 

Lavender Dye for Cottons 174 

Lavender Dye for Silks 260 

Lavender, Essence of 973 

Lavender, Essential Oil of 1465 

Lavender, Essential OU of. Test 

for 1482 

Lavender, OU of 1227 

Lavender Pomade 1262 

Lavender Water 989, &c., 1071, 1073 
Lavender Water, Ammoniacal 1098 
Lawns, Printed, to preserve the 

Colors of 487 

Lawns, to destroy Worms in. .1876 

Lawns, to kill Moss on 1865 

Lead 3253 

Lead, Acetate of 4101 

Lead, AUoys of 3419, 3426 

Lead and Tin Alloys, Melting 

Point of 3459 

Lead, Carbonate cf 2693 

Lead, Cldoride of 4102 

Lead, Chromates of 4104, 4105 

Lead, Extract of 4775 

Lead, Flux for Soldering. 3482, 3531 
Lead for Cisterns, Cautions 

about 3254 

Lead for Pencils 6197 

Lead, Iodide of 4103 

Lead, Muriate of 4102 

Lead, Nitrate of 4107 

Lead, Ointment of 4980 

Lead, Oxides of 2744, 4106 

Lead Plaster 5043 

Lead, Sheet, Weight of .6139 

Leftd, Solder for 3506 



Lead, Tests for, in Solutions ..4108 
Lead, Test for, in Wine.. 4402, 4403 

Lead, to electro-gild on 3731 

Lead, to extract Silver from. . .3210 
Lead, to separate Bismuth from 3346 
Lead, to separate, from Copper. 3242 

Lead, White 2693 

Lead, White, to test 2694, (fcc. 

Lead CoUc, to cure 5693 

Lead Ores, Flux for Eeducing3464 
Lead Ores, to test the Pichness 

of 3255, 3256 

Lead Pipes, Flux for Soldering 3531 
Lead Poisons, Antidotes for. . .5908 

Lead Test Paper 4416 

Lead Tree, to make a 3257 

Lead Water Pipes, to protect. .6224 

Leaf Gilding 3579 

Leake's Pill of ^ealth 5189 

Leaky SLyUghts, to stop 6235 

Lea's Solution for cleaning Pho- 
tographic Glasses 3160 

Leather, Blacking f - •■ 3086, &c. 

Leather, Cement for 2245, 2256 

Leather, Cement to join, to Gut- 
ta-percha 2254 

Leather, Compressed 6376 

Leather, Dubbing for 3078 

Leather, Glycerine Composition 

for 3073 

Leather, Invisible Patches on. 2256 
Leather, Japan Black Varnish 

for 2968,2969 

Leather, Morocco, to tan 643 

Leather, Patent, PoUsh for. . . .3072 
Leather, Preservation of -.3065, &c. 

Leather, Eussia, to tan 644 

Leather, to cement Metal to. . .2230 

Leather, to clean 3076 

Leather, to dye 6350, &c. 

Leather, to fasten, on Pollers. .2958 
Leather, to join, to Steel, <fcc. . .2259 
Leather, to make. Waterproof 3069 
Leather, to paste, on Wood.. .2276 
Leather, to remove Oil from . . . 3077 
Leather, to remove Oil-stains 

fi'om 359 

Leather, to restore Softness to. 3067 
Leather, to restore the Lustre 

of 3066, 3068 

Leather, to silver 3629 

Leather Belting, AdhesiA^e for 6232 
Leather Book-covers, Marble 

for 3107 

Leaves, Skeleton,to bleach 6169, 6171 
Leaves, Skeleton, to prepare.. 6168 
6170. 

Le Blond's Varnish 2926 

Ledoyen's Disinfecting Solutionl703 
Leeches, to stop Bleeding from . 5557 
5567. 

Lee's Antibilious Pills 5175 

Lemery's Lute for Stdls or Pe- 

torts 2265 

Leghorn Dye for Cottons 158 

Le Gros' Itch Ointment 5322 

Lemon Beer 899 

Lemon, Essence of 955 

Lemon Essence, Artificial 1051 

Lemon Extract 1031 

Lemon, Essential Oil of 1465 

Lemon, Essential Oil of, to keep 

Fragrant 1473 

Lemon, Essential OU of, to re- 
store the Fragrance 1472 

Lemon Ginger Beer 901 

Lemon, Perfumed OU of 1227 

Lemon Soda Xeetar 917 

Lemon Syrup for Cordials 1375 

Lemon Syrup for Soda- Water .1387 
Lemonade, Effervescing.. .906, Sec. 

Lemonade, Manna 5247 

Lemonade, Plain 9094:/] 

Lemonade, Portable 915 

Lemonade Powders 908, 916 

Lemon-Color Dye for Cottons. 185 
Lemon-Color Dye for Ivory... 1991 

Lemon-Juice, Glycerinated 5458 

Lemon- Juice, Im'itation 911, <&:c. 

Lemon-Juice, to keep 914 

Lenitive Electuary 5154 

Le Xormand's Table Mustard. 1785 
Lenses, Substitutes for .6384 



Lenses, Transparent Cement 

for 2236 

Leopard's Bane, Tincture of. . .4509 
Lettuce-Beds, to protect, from 

SnaUs 1862 

Leucorrhoea, Remedies for 5725, <tc 

Level Sand, to drain 1891 

Liard for Lubrication 1543 

Libavius' Fuming Liquor 4124 

Lice, Body, to destroy 1920 

Lice in Children's Heads, to de- 
stroy 1919 

Lice, to clear Canary Birds of. 1921 

Lice, to clear Poultiy of 1922 

Liebig's Extract of Meat 1609 

Liebig'sFlux 3467 

Liebig's ]N^on-poisonous OU of 

Alm onds 1512 

Liebig's SUvering on Glass 3619 

LiefchUd's Patent Blue 2617 

Life Balsam, Hofirnann's 5112 

Life-Root, Fluid Extract of 4602 

Light, Statistics of 6122 

Lights, Colored 21 12, &c. 

Lightning Ink Eraser 6393 

LUac Dve for Cottons 169, 175 

LUac Dve for Feathers 327 

LUac Dye for SUks 262 

LUac Dye for Woolens 212 

LUac Fire 2085, &c. 

LUies, White, OU of 4752 

Lily of the Valley Bouquet, Im- 
itation 1067 

Lime 3993 

Lime, Acetate of 4244 

Lime, Chloride of 4245 

Lime, Chlorinated 4245 

Lime, Hydrate of 3994 

Lime, Hypochlorite of 4245 

Lime, Hyposulphite of 4248 

Lime, MUk of 1520 

Lime, Muriate of 424G 

Lime, Mtrate of 2223 

Lime, Oxvmuriate of 4245 

Lime, Shell 3994 

Lime, Tests for 3995 

Lime, to obtain 3994 

Lime Water 103, 4760 

Lime-juice, Glreerinated 5458 

Linden-Flower Water 1071, 1073 

Lineal Measure 5975 

Lineal Measure compared v.ith 

Metrical 5976, 5977 

Lineal Measure, Old French. . .6051 

Linen, HoUand, Sizing for 6328 

Linen, Scorched, to restore... 504 

Linen, to bleach 506 

Linen, to detect Cotton in 4401 

Linen, to detect in Mixed Fab- 
rics 296 

Linen, to make Starch for 497 

Linen, to prepare for Embroi- 
dery 6229 

Linen, to remove Fruit-stains 

from 3G5, 370 

Linen, to remove Ink-stains from 384 
Linen, to remove Iron-mould 

from 379, 384 

Linen, to render. Waterproof 15(51 

Liniments 4857, &c 

Liniment, Ai'nica 4864 

Liniment, Balsam of Peru 5400 

Liniment, BeUadonna 4871, 4879 

Liniment, Black OU 4872 

Liniment, Cajeput 4890 

Liniment, Camphor 4863 

Liniment, Camphor, Compound4880 

Liniment, Canada 5280 

Liniment, Cantharides.. .4874, 4891 
Liniment, Chloroform, Com- 
pound 4876 

Liniment for Chilblains. 5836, 5840 
Liniment for Horses 4861, 4873,4887 

4895, 5222. 
Liniment for Scalds and Bums 5472 
Liniment for Sprains and Bruis- 
es 4887 

Liniment for Wounds 48C8 

Liniment, Good Samaritan4858,52S3 

Liniment, Hemlock 4859 

Liniment, Hungarian 4867. 5473 

Liniment, Hydrochloric Acid. .4875 
Liniment, Indian 5223 



686 



LIN— LIT 



LIT — LOT 



LOT— MAH 



Liniment, London 4865 

Liniment, Magic 4861 

Liniment, Mexican Mustang.. 5221 

Liniment, Morphia 4860 

Liniment, Mustard, Compound 4892 

Liniment, Mustard-oil 4894 

Liniment, Neuralgia 5218, 5220 

Liniment, Nerve andBone4893,5'224 

Liniment, Opium 4878 

Liniment, Petroleum4877, 5402, 5836 

Liniment, Pile 5219 

Liniment, Rheumatic 4884 

Liniment, Soap .. .4869, 5443, 6404 

Liniment, Stimulating 4888 

Liniment, Sulphuric Acid 5399 

Liniment Valuable 4866 

Liniment, Volatile 4881 

Liniment, Whooping Cough ..5257 

Liniment, Wonderful 4895 

Linseed Oil, Boiled 2727, &c. 

Linseed Oil, Tests for 1497 

Linseed OU, to clarify, for Var- 
nish 2869 

Linseed OU, to detect 1498 

Linseed Oil, to prepare, for Var- 
nish 2868 

Linseed Oil, Wilk's Refined. . . 2871 

Linseed Poultice 5023 

Lint, Medicated 5076 

Lip Salve, French 1174 

Lip Salve, German 1175 

Lip Salve, Glycerine 1173 

Lip Salve, Peruvian 1170 

Lip Salve, Red 1170 

Lip Salve, Rose 1171 

Lip Salve, White 1172 

Lips, Cacao Pomade for 1136 

Lips, Creme de Psych6 for 1137 

Lips, Pomade Rosat for 1135 

Liquation 21 

Liquefaction 22 

Liqueurs 707, &c. 

Liqueur dela Grande Chartreuse, 
806, 6291. 

Liquid Blue 4791 

Liquid Boot Blacking 3086, &c. 

Liquid Colors 2614, &c. 

Liquid Colors for Druggists2648,&c. 
Liquid Colors forMaps,&c., 2640, &c. 

Liquid Glue 2283, &c. 

Liquid Gold 2518, 3195 

Liquid Guano 1825 

Liquid, Hair-curUng 1191 

Liquid Manure 1824 

Liquid Measure 5966 

Liquid Measure compared with 

Apothecaries' 5967 

Liquid Measure compared Tvith 

Imperial S968 

Liquid Measure compared with 

Metrical 5969 

Liquid Measure, Imperial 6034 

Liquid Measure, Imperial, com- 
pared with JJ. States 6035 

Liquid Measure, Imperial, com- 
pared with Litres 6036 

Liquid Silver 2519 

Liquid Spectroscopes 2364 

Liquids, Boiling Heat of 6, 6133 

Liquids, Statistics of 6138 

Liquids, to find the Specific 

Gravity of 49 

Liquids, to reduce, to a given 

Density 6154 

Liquor, Bleaching 104 

Liquor, Cochineal 106 

Liquor, Iron 118 

Liquor of Camphor 4611 

Liquor of Iodide of Iron 4703 

Liquor of Potassa 4784 

Liquor of Soda 4785 

Liquor, Plumb Ill 

Uquor, Red 100 

Liquorice, Fluid Extract of 4595 

Liquors, Flavorings for 664, &c. 

Liquors for Shampooing 1189 

Liquors, Imitation 663 

Liquors, Syrups for 1369 

Liquors, White, to blanch 705 

Litharge 4106 

Litharge, Antidote for 5908 

Litharge Plaster 5043 

Lithia 3983 



Lithia, Carbonate of 4238 

Lithia, Sulphate of 4239 

Lithia, Tests for 3984 

Lithia Water, Aerated 4436 

Lithographic Crayons 1958 

Lithographic Ink 2547, &c. 

Lithographic Ink, to test 2550 

Lithographic Paper 1955, &.c. 

Litmus Paper 4417, 4418 

Litres, Value of, in Cubic Me- 
tres 6020 

Litres, Value of, in Apotheca- 
ries Measure 6023 

Litres, Value of, in Dry Mea- 
sure 6021 

Litres, Value of, in Imperial 

Measures 6024, 6025 

Litres, Value of, in Liquid Mea- 
sure 6022 

Live-Long Candy 5260 

Liver Complaint, Remedies for . 5697 

Liver of Antimony 4128 

Liver Spots on the Skin, to re- 
move 5885 

Lixiviation 23, 3841 

Lobelia, Fluid Extract of 4578 

Lobelia Poultice 5031 

Lobelia, Tincture of 4513 

Lobelia Water 4761 

LocateUe's Balsam 5306 

Lockjaw, to relieve 5771 

Log-Lines 6013 

Logs, to find the amount of Lum- 
ber in 6006 

Logs, to prevent, from Splitting 1678 
Logwood. Blue Dye for Cottons 160 
Logwood Lilac Dyes for Cot- 
tons 175, &c. 

Logwood, to detect, in Wine ..4405 

London Liniment 4865 

London Gin, Old Tom, Imita- 
tion 698 

Long Measure, see Lineal Mea- 
sure. 

Lotions 4817, &c. 

Lotion, Acetate of Lead 4824 

Lotion, AJum, Compound 4821 

Lotion, Anodyne 4819 

Lotion, Antipsoric 4850 

Lotion, Arnica 4837 

Lotion, Astringent 4820 

Lotion, Balm of Gilead 4838 

Lotion, Belladonna 4849 

Lotion, Bichloride of Mercury. 1145 

Lotion, Borax 1156 

Lotion, Borax, Glycerinated,..1157 
1162, 5452. 

Lotion, Camphorated 4822 

Lotion, Camphorated Evapora- 
ting 4844 

Lotion, Carbolic Acid. . . .4835, 4837 

Lotion, Cherry -laurel 1161 

Lotion, Chlorate of Potassa... 4856 

Lotion, Chloride of Lime 4830 

Lotion, Chloride of Potassa 4832 

Lotion, Chloride of Soda 4831 

Lotion, Counter-irritant 5451 

Lotion, Cyanide of Potassium,. 1158 
1159. 

Lotion, Disinfecting 4852 

Lotion, Evaporating 4843 

Lotion, Galls 4846 

Lotion for GaUs 4855 

Lotion, for Mange 4854 

Lotion, Glycerine 1147, &c., 4839, &e. 

Lotion, Goxilard's 4776 

Lotion, Gowland's 1155 

Lotion, Iodide of Potassium. . .1144 

Lotion, Iodine 1143, 4851 

Lotion, Mercurial 4847 

Lotion, Muriate of Ammonia.. 4826 

4827. 
Lotion, Muriatic Acid. . .4828, 5398 

Lotion, Nitrate of Silver 4829 

Lotion, Nitric Acid 4818 

Lotion, Preventive 4825 

Lotion, Prussic Acid 4833 

Lotion, Sulphuretted 4834 

Lotion, Tar 4845 

Lotion to remove Freckles 1142 

Lotion, Turpentine 5401 

Lotion, Valuable, for Woimds.4853 
Lotion, Veratria 5406 



Lotion, Yellow 484^* 

Looking-Glasses, see Mirrors. 

Lorme's Lye Tables 623 

Loysel's Paste for Artificial 

Gems 2423 

Lubricating Oils, to refine 1495 

Lubricators for Drills 6273 

Lubricators for Hones 6270, 6272 

Lubricators forMachineryl539, &c. 
Lucifer Matches, Substitute for 2149 

Ludlam's Specific 5409 

Lugol's Iodine Solution 5421 

Lumbago 5541 

Lumbago, Remedy for 5542 

Lunar Caustic 4077 

Lunar Caustic, to apply 5080 

Lupulin, Fluid Extract of 4579 

Lupidin, Oleoresin of 4582 

Lupulin, Tincture of 4519 

Lustre for Brass 3379 

Lustre, Metallic, for Pottery... 24 14 

Lustre of Metals 3351 

Lustre, Starch 6329 

Lutes for various purposes,2263, &c. 

Lye 23 

Lye, Caustic Potash, Table of. 629 
Lye, Caustic Soda, Table of. . . 630 

Lye, Hard-soap 4785 

Lye, Home-made Caustic... 548, 550 
Lye, Kurten's Caustic Soda. .. 589 

Lye, Soapmakers' 519, 588, 610 

Lye, Soda, Solution of. 4785 

Lye, Soft-soap 4784 

Lye, Table of Strength of. ... . 623 

Lye, to test 590, 621 

Lye, White, for Washing 483 

Macassar Oil 1248 

Maceration 39 

Maceration, to obtain Tinctures 
by 36 

Machineiy, Alloy for Journals 

of - 3430 

Machiaery, Lubricators for 1539, <fcc. 
Mackenzie's Solution of Nitrate 

of Silver 4802 

McKenzie's Ointment 5286 

McLean's Neuralgic Liniment 5218 

McMunn's Elixir of Opium 4735 

Madeira Wine, to fine 743 

Magendie's Acid Solution of 

Veratria 5313 

Magenta Dye for Silk or Wool. 314 
2575, &c. 

Magenta Ink"' 2497 

Maggots on Roses, to destroy. .1859 

Magic Copying Paper 1948 

Magic Hair Colorer and Re- 
storer 1217 

Magic Liniment 4861 

Magic Pain-kiUer 4881 

Magic Tooth-paste 1315 

Magistery of Bismuth 4135 

Magnesia 3990, &c. 

Magnesia, Butyrate of 4260 

Magnesia, Carbonate of 4240 

Magnesia, Citrate of. Solutions 

oi 4805, 4809, &c. 

Magnesia Filter 17 

Magnesia, Henry's 5230 

Magnesia, Muriate of 4434 

Magnesia, Fluid 4434 

Magnesia, Sulphate of 4241 

Magnesia, Sulphuret of 4242 

Magnesia, Test for 3992 

Magnesia, to obtain 3991 

Magnesienne, Eau 4434 

Magnesium, Chloride of 4243 

Magnetic Adeps 4949 

Magnetic Ointment 4963 

Magnetic Pain-kiUer 5867 

Magnets, Horseshoe, to restore 3296 

Mahogany, Artificial 2849 

Mahogany, Beech wood 2848 

Mahogany, Composition for 

Light 2991 

Mahogany Stain for Wood 2845, &c. 

Mahogany, to clean 2985, 6411 

Mahogany, to darken 2855 

Mahogany, to prepare, for Pol- 
ishing 2983, &c. 

Mahogany, to remove Ink from. 389 
Mahogany, Varnish for. . .2893, 2895 



MAH — MAT 



MAT — MEG 



MEL^MIL 



^S' 



Mahj's "WTiite-lead Plaster 5044 

Mafetes 3967 

Male Fern, Oil of 4585 

Maleates 3967 

Maleic Acid 3967 

Malic Acid 3967 

Malleability of Metals 3354 

Malliorca d'Espacme 781, 805 

Mallow Liquid Coloring 2G31 

Malooe's Cough Mixture 5262 

Mrilt Liquors, Auti-ferments for 764 

Malt Liquors, to brew 856, &c. 

Malt Liquors, to test, for Clari- 
fication 872 

Malta, Balsam de 5116 

Malva Liquid Coloring 2631 

Mandrake, Fluid Extract of. ..4575 

Mandrake Mercurial Pills 4912 

Mandrake, Tincture of 4507 

Manganate of Baryta 42^9 

Manganese 4254 

Manganese, Borate of 2735 

Manganese, Oxide of 4173 

Manganese, Phosphate of 4G33 

Manganesic Acid 3941 

MFjage, Lotion for the 4G54 

Mangoes, Pickled, Imitation . .1804 

Manifold Copying 1949 

Manifold Copying Paper 1948 

Manipulations, Chemical,l,&c., 3830 

Mankettrick's Lubricator 1546 

Manna Lemonade 5247 

Mannite 5247 

Manure, Artificial 1826, &c. 

Manure, Liquid 1824 

Manure, to dissolve Bones for. .1020 

Maple Syrup- 1408 

Maps, Colors for 2540, <fcc. 

Maps, Varnish for.. 2920, 2935, 2938 

Maraschino 772, &c., 831 

Maraschino di Zara 804 

Marble, Acids injurious to 2045 

Marble, Artificial 2332 

Marble Cement 2209 

Marble, Cement to join. . .2160, 2180 

Marble, to cement Metal to 2231 

Marble, to clean 396, &c. 

Marble, to dye or stain... 2036, &c. 
Marble, to extract oil-stains from 394 
401. 

Marble, to polish 2035 

Marble, to remove Ink or Iron- 
mould from 4C2, 514 

Marble, to remove Match-stains 

from 517 

Marble, to remove Stains from. 400 
&c., 514, &c. 

Marble Soap 556 

Marble- Workers' Cement 2180 

Marbled Sealing Wax 2319 

Marbling Books, Method of... 3102 

Marchand's Crimson Fire 2077 

Marchand's Green Fire 2081 

Marechal, Eau de 993 

Marienbad Purging Salts 4445 

Marienbad Water, Aerated . ..4444 

Marine Cement 2254 

Marine Glue 2291 

Marking Fliud fc^r Ivory 2C01 

Marking-Ink for Linen, (fcc.2508, <fcc. 

2532. 
Marking-Ink for Packages 2521, &o. 
Marking-Ink, to remove, from 

Linen 385, 6339 

Maroon Dye for Silks 253 

Marrow, Factitious 6307 

Marrow Oil 1245 

Marseilles Vinegar 5198 

Marsh-Mallow iloot. Oil of 4752 

Marsh Plants, to propagate 1883 

Marsh's Blue Fire 2074 

Marsh's Crimson Fire 2075 

Marsh's Wliite Fire 2098 

Marsh's Yellow Fire 2100 

Martin's Depilatory 1220 

Mashing for Brewing 858 

Mason's Cement 2181 

Massicot 2744 

Mastic Cements 2179, 2196, Sec. 

Mastich French Polish 2998 

Mastich Picture Varnish 2911 

Mastich Varnish 2912, &c. 

Match, Inextinguishable 2061 



Match, Quick 2060 

Match Stains, to remove from 

Marble 1 517 

Match, Slow 2059 

Matches, Congrove 2146 

Matches, Japanese 2126 

Matches, Mixtures for 2150 

Matches, Parlor 21 46 

Matches, Sul^stitute for 2149 

Matches without Sulphur 2148 

Mathieu's Vermifuge 5245 

Matico, Fluid Extract of 4574 

Matico Injection 5435 

Mats, Sheepskin, to clean 420 

Mats, to prepare Sheepskins for. 647 

Matting, Straw, to clean 418 

Mauve Dye for Silk or Wool. . . 315 
May Apple Hoot, FMd Extract 

of. 4.575 

May Blossom Pomade 1263 

Mayall's Method of cleaning 

Photographic Glasses 3185 

Mayence Base for Artificial 

Gfems 2421 

Mayes' Indian Cholagogue 5396 

Mead Wine 733 

Meadow-Land, to kill Moss on. 1866 

Measles, Treatment of 5749 

Measure, Apothecaries 5956 

Measure, Apothecaries, compared 

with Apothecaries Weight. .5962 
Measure, Apothecaries, compared 

with Avoirdupois 5960 

Measure, Apothecaries, compared 

with Litres. ^ 5959 

Measure, Apothecaries, compared 

with Troy 5361 

Measure, Cloth 5394 

Measure, Cord- wood 5337 

Measure, Cubic or Solid 5396 

Measure, Dry 5370 

Measure, Geographical 6010 

Measure, Government Land. . .5384 

Measure, Imperial Dry C037 

Measure, Imperial Liquid 6334 

Measure, Imperial Standard . . 6332 

Measure, Lineal or Long 5375 

Measure, Liquid 5366 

Measure, Log or Lumber, 6003, 6006 

Measure, Metrical 6314 

Measure, ISTautical 6010 

Measure of Time 6007 

Measure, Pendulum 5980 

Measure, Shoemakers' 5981 

Measure, Square or Superficial, 5982 
Measure, Stone and Brick-work6000 

Measure, Timber 6003, 6006 

Measure, Wine 5956 

Measures, Foreign 6056, <fcc. 

Measures, Foreign, compared 

with TJ. States 6055 

Measures, Graduated,forFluids5957 

Measures, Housekeepers' 6130 

Measures, Miscellaneous 59G3 

Meat, Liebig's Extract of 1G09 

Meat, Paper for preserving 1G14 

Meat, to can 1311 

Meat, to cure 1G06 

Meat, to dry 1599 

Meat, to dry-salt 1GC2 

Meat, to keep, fresh 1312 

Meat, to pickle 1G02 

Meat, to pickle, red: 1G03 

Meat, to preserve. . .1605, 1610, 1618 

1632. 

Meat, to salt, by Injection 1604 

Meat, to smoke IGOO 

Medals, to bronze 3772, <fcc. 

Medals, to preserve 6238 

Medals, to take Moulds of. 3672, 3675 

3C84. 

Medical Peceipts 5478, (S:c. 

Medicated Lint 5376 

Medicated Oils 4752 

Medicated Soaps, Caution about 579 

Medicated Waters 4753, <S:c. 

Medicinal Weights, Foreign ..6054 

Medicine Bottles, to clean 432 

Medicines, to disguise the Taste 

of 5887 

ifeerschaura, Artificial 2047 

Meerschaum, to polish 2046 

Mege's Rheumatic Ointment.. 5293 



MeHlot Water, to distill..! 071, 1073 

Melisse, Eau de 988 

Melon Essence, Artificial 1059 

Melon Plants, to kill Thrips on. 1858 

Melon Seeds, to clean 1 864 

Melon Seeds, to prove 18G3 

Melting Point of Metals 6133 

Mending, see auticle to be 

mended. 

Menstruation, Diflicult 5715 

Menstruation, Excessive 5714 

Menstruation, Irregular 5712 

Menstruation, Remedies for ..5716 
Menstruation, Suppressed 5713, 5716 

Mercurial Lotion 4847 

Mercurial Ointment 4948, <fec. 

Mercurial Pills 4912, 4919 

Mercurial Soap 577 

Mercury 33^4 

Mercury, Ammonio-chloride of 4140 

4142. 

Mercury, Chlorides of 4138, 4139 

Mercury, Fulminating 2134 

Mercury, Mtrate of 4144 

Mercury, Oxides of 4141, 4143 

Mercury, Sulphur et of 2681, 268a 

Mercury, Test for 3325 

Mercury, Tests for the Salts of, 4145 

Mercury, to purify 3326, &c. 

Merino, to preserve the Colors 

of 487 

Metal, Expansion 3454 

Metals 3186 

Metals, Assay of 3187, 3130, 3206 

Metals, Black Lacquer for 3064 

Metals, Cement to join 2247 

Metals, Cement tojoin, to Glass 2262 

Metals, Fluxes for 3471 

Metals, Melting Point of 6133 

Metals, Properties of 3349,'6143 

Metals, Solutions for Coloring 3188 

3197, 3313. 
Metals, to cement Gems to . . .2152 
Metals, to cement, to Leather. 2230 
Metals, to cement, to Marble, 

Stone or Wood 2231 

Metals, to gild 3582, &c. 

Metals, to prepare, for Japan- 
ning 3019 

Metals, to prevent Corrosion in 3251 

Metals, to silver 3632 

Metal Letters, to attach, to 

Glass 2261 

Metallic Freezing Mixture 1690 

Metallic Lustres for Pottery. . .2414 

Metallic Paint, Varnish for 2894 

Metallic Varnish 2953 

Metallic Waterproofing Soap.. 1562 
Meters, Gas, to keep, from 

Freezing 6214 

Methane 4048 

Methvl 4304 

Metre, Official Standard 6015 

Metres compared with Lineal 

Measure 6017, &c. 

Metrical Measure of Capacity. 6020 
Metrical Measure of Length ..6016 
Metrical Measure of Sm-face . .6026 

Metrical Weights 6027 

Metrical Weights andMeasures6014 

&c., 6052. 
Metropolitan Disinfecting Fluidl 693 
Mettauer's Aperient Solution. .5272 

Mexican Tooth-wash 1326 

Mexican Money 6113 

Mexican Mustang Liniment. . .5221 

Meyer's Water of Life 5448 

Mialhe's Aerated Chalybeate 

Water 4474 

Mialhe's Elixir of Pepsine 4720 

Mialhe's loduretted Gaseous 

Water 4477 

Mialhe's Rational Dentifrice. ..1295 
Mialhe's Syrup for Hoarseness . 5249 

Mice, Bait for 1895 

Mice, to drive away 1923 

Microscope, Marvels of the 6181 

Microscope, to mount Objects 

for the 6179, &c. 

Microscopic Objects, Preserva- 
tive Fluids for 166S 

MUbum's Mixture 5347 

Mildew on Cotton, to remove.. 128 



o 



MIL — MOH 



MOI— -Mor 



ivrou — MTR 



MildeTT on Plants, to remove.. 1850 
Mildew on Trees, to prevent. .1849 
Mildew Spots, to remove. .381, <fcc. 

Miel, Eaude 1006 

Milhau's Emulsion of Cod-Liver 

Oil 5437 

MUk, Asses', Imitation 6289 

Milk, Condensed 1597, 5470 

MUk, Extract of 5470 

Milk of Wax 2936 

Mil k or Emulsion 43 

Milk, Painting in 27C9 

Milk Powder 5471 

Milk Punch 918 

Milk, Svrup of 4C37 

MHk, to detect Chalk in 4377 

Milk, to detect Water in 4376 

Milk, to keep, Sweet 1C28 

Milk, to preserve 1C27 

Mill -Picks, to harden 3292 

Mill-Picks, to temper 32D1 

Millefleur, Bouquet de 1065 

Millefleur, Essence of, for Scent- 
ing: Pomades 1261 

Millefleur, Extrait de 10G3 

Millefleur, Oil of 1227 

Millefleur Pomade 12G8 

Millefleur Water 1005 

MUlon's Method of obtaining 

Essential Oils 1467 

Mil ls, Spice, to clean 423 

Minderems, Spirit of 5143 

Mineral Green 2711 

Mineral Substances, to silver.. 3G26 
Mineral Waters, Eactitious. . .4430 
Mineral Waters, Syrups for. ..1384 

-Minerals, Weight of 6135 

Mint, Soda 5307 

Mint Vinegar 1771 

Mint Water, to distill. ..1071, 1073 

Mirbane, Essence of 4322 

Mirrors, Amalgam for... 3538, 3545 

Mirrors, to clean 417, 6330 

Mirrors, to repair the Silvering 

of ...3624, Sec. 

Mirrors, to silver ■... .3613, &c. 

Mitchell's Ointment of Three. .5294 

Mixed Essential Oils 1243 

Mixed Eabrics, to detect Cotton 

ia 295 

Mixed Fabrics, to detect Linen 

in 296 

Mixed Fabrics, to detect SUk 

and Wool in 300 

Mixed Fabrics, to dissolve Wool 

out of 6413 

Mixed Fabrics, to dye 283, &c. 

Mixed Pickles 1805 

Mixed Scents 1243 

Mixture, Antiscrofulons 5774 

Mixture, Belladonna 5808 

Mixture, Brown 5588 

Mixtm-e, Camphor 5387 

Mixture, Cataract, for the Eye,5808 

Jlixture, Chalk 4747 

Mixture, Chirayta 5192 

Mixture, Chlorbdyne 5655 

:Mixture, Cholera 5667, &c. 

Vlixture, Copaiba 5263, 5735 

Mixture, Cough 5262, 5607, 5610, &c. 
Mixture, Cyanide of Potassium 52C8 

Mixture, Emetic 5108 

Mixture, Fever 5137 

Mixture, Freezing 1687, Sec. 

Mixture, Influenza 5623 

Mixture, Intermittent Fever ..5757 

Mixture, Iron, Aromatic 4712 

Mixture, Iron, Compound 5248 

Mixture, Liquorice, Compound 5588 

Mixture, Xervous 5572 

Mixture, Neutralizing 5666 

Mixture, OU of Wormseed 5646 

Mixture, Quinine 5582, 5384 

Mixture, Saline 4763 

Mixture, Shampoo, 1188, <fcc. 

Mixture, Tonic and Xcrvine ..5123 

Mixture, Touic Aromatic 5124 

Mixture, Washing 430 

Mocking Birds, Food for 61 90 

Modeling Clay 6321 

Modeling Wax 1590 

Mohr's Blue Ink 2482 

Mohr's Table of Acetic Acid. .3897 



Moire Bronze 3785 

Moire MetaMique 3320 

Molasses Candy 6280 

Molasses Taffy 6282 

Moles, to remove 5826 

Molinari's Bemedy for Sea-sick- 
ness 5339 

Molybdenum for Blue Dye 2G33 

Monesia, Tincture of 4500 

Money, Austrian 6375 

Monev, Brazilian 6115 

Monev, Chinese 6110 

Monev, East Indian 6112 

Money, English 6044 

Money, French 6053 

Money, Mexican 6113 

Money, Monte Video 6114 

Money, Xetherlands CCS4 

Money, Portucniese 6089 

Money, Prussian 6080 

Money, Poman, Ancient 6057 

Money, Poman, Modem 6079 

Money, Pussian 6071 

Monev, Scriptural 6069 

Money, Spanish 6091 

Money, Swedish 6096 

Money, Swiss 6101 

Money, Turkish 6106 

Monsel's Stvptic Solution 5431 

Mont dOr Water, Aerated 4471 

Monte Video, Money of 6114 

Monthly Flow, see Mexstruation. 
Moore's Elixir of Valerianate 

of Ammonia 4734 

Moore's Extract of Black Co- 
hosh 4502, 4750 

Moore's Fluid Extract of Van- 

iUa 4607 

Moore's Syrup of Tar 4669 

Mordants C3, 2634 

Mordant-Brown Dye for Cot- 
tons 143 

Mordant's for Aniline Colors. .2563 
2568. 

Mordant Varnish 2919 

Moreens, to clean 448 

Morella Wine 728 

Morfit's Dentifrice 1298 

Morfit's Hair-tonic 1180 

Morocco Leather, to restore. . .3008 

Morocco Leather, to tan 643 

Morphia 3997 

Morphia, Acetate of 4267 

Morphia Collodion 4745 

Morphia Liniment 4860 

Morphia, Percentage of, in 

Opium 3998 

Morphine, see Morphia. 

Morrison's PiUs 5327 

Mortars, Wedgwood, to clean. (1346 

Morton's Copaiba MiKture 52G4 

Morveau's Beducing Flux 34C3 

Mosaic Gold 3348, 3425, G3C2 

Mosaic Silver 60G1 

Mosquitoes, to clear a Loom of. 1017 

Mosquitoes, to keep away 1018 

Moss Meal for Birds 6190 

Moss on Fruit Trees, to destroy 1860 
Moss on Gravel Walks, to re- 
move 1851 

Moss on Lawns, to kill 1GG5 

Moss on Meadow Land, tokiU.lSGO 
Moth, to keep, from Clothing. . 654 

Mother of Pearl, to polish 2C33 

Mother's Cordial 5324 

Mottled Soap Balls 576 

Mould Candles, to make 633 

Mouldiness, to prevent (see]also 

ARTICLE to be kept from)". . . .6380 
Mouldings for Booms, Stuff for. 2200 

Moulds, Composition for 3C84 

Moulds, Copper, Coating for ..3673 

Moidds, Copper 3G72, 3GS0 

Moulds, Elastic 3C85 

Moulds, Fusible-alloy 3G79 

Moulds, Gutta Percha 3GS1 

Moulds, Metal, to use 3C90 

Moulds of Figures, to take 3C86 

Moidds, Paste 3G83 

Moulds, Plaster 3677 

Moulds, Precautions in Electro- 
typing 3691 

Moulds, Prepared AVax for 3674 



Moulds, to coat, with Metal. . . .3f^ 
Moulds, to prepare, for Electro- 
typing 3689, 3b90 

Moulds, Wax 3675, 3682 

Mousseline de Laine Dresses, to 

wash 485 

Mousseline de Laine, to preserve 

the Colors of 487 

Moustache Pomade 1287 

Moutarde a TEstragon 1787 

Moutarde Superbe 1788 

Mouth Glue 2307 

Mouth Washes 1323 

Moxou's Case-hardening 3299 

Mucilage for Labels 2301 

Mucilage for OHlce use 2299 

Mucilage for Polished Surfaces 2309 
Mucilage for Soda Water Bot- 
tles 2302 

Mucilage Gargle 5070 

Mucilage, Gum-arabic 2304 

Mucilage, Postage-stamp 2300 

Mucilage, Quince 1154 

Mucilage, to prevent, from 

Moulding 2305 

Mucilage, Tragacanth 2310 

MucUaginous Fermentation. .. ]« 

Mudar Bark, Oil of. 473fe, 

Mulberry and Apple Wine 728 

Mulberry Wine 728 

Mulder's Colorless Drying Oil- .2731 

Mulled Wine with Eggs 927 

Mumps, Treatment of 5629 

Munro's Counrh Mediciue 5233 

Muntz's Metal 3348 

Murexide 4224 

Muriates 3882 

Muriate of Ammonia 4222 

Muriate of Ammonia, Lotion of 4826 

Muriate of Baryta 4234 

Muriate of Iron 4165, 4166 

Muriate of Lead 4102 

Muriate of Lime 4246 

Muriate of Magnesia 4243 

Muriate of Kickel 4174 

Muriate of Tin 4L23, 4124 

Muriated Photographic Paper 3170 

Muriatic Acid 3882, &c., 4068 

Muriatic Acid, Commercial . . . 3883 

Muriatic Acid, Dilute 3885 

Muriatic Acid Liniment 4875 

Muriatic Acid Lotion 4828,5398 

Muriatic Acid, Pure 3884 

Muriatic Acid, Table of Percen- 
tages of 3886 

Muriatic Acid, Tests for 3887 

Muriatic Acid, to obtain 3883 

Muriatic Acid, to purify 3888 

Murphy's Carminative 5388 

Murray's Fluid Magnesia 4434 

Mushroom Catsup 1767 

Mushrooms, Pickled 1802 

Mushrooms, Poisonous, Anti- 
dotes for 5914 

Mushrooms, to test 4387 

Musical Instruments, to stain. .2858 
Musk and Ambergris, OH of. . . 1237 

Musk, Essence of 956, &c. 

Musk, Oil of 1227, 1228, 1236 

Musk Soap 571 

Musk, Tincture of 1025 

Musk, to restore the Odor of. . . 135'4 

Musk, to test 4390 

Musk Seed, Essence of 968 

Muskrat Skins, to tan 648 

Muskrats, to catch 1896 

Mtislin, Colored, to wash. . .486, 490 

Muslin, to coat, -nith Metal 3738 

Muslin, to starch 500 

Muslin, to thicken and strength- 
en 6236 

Mustard, Essential Oil of 1465 

Mustard for Table Use 1784, &c. 

Mustard Liniment 4892, 4894 

Mustard Plaster 5057 

Mustard Plaster, Homoeopathic 5056 

Mustard Poultice 5021 

Mustiness in Beer, to remedy.. 877 
Mustiness in Wine, to remove. 758 

Mutton Suet 524 

Mynsicht's Elixir of Vitriol 4731 

Myrrh and Aloes PiUs 4902 

Myrrh and Borax Mouth-wash. 1333 



MYR — NIT 



NIT — OIL 



OIL — OIL 



580 



Myrrh, Fluid Extract of 4579 

Mvrrli, Tincture of 4500 

:SlTTvh Tooth-wash 1332 

Mrrrhine. George's 5377 

Myrtle Blossom Pomade 12fi3 

Myrtle Cutting-s, to manage . . . 1831 
Myrtle. Essence of, Imitation. . 1068 

Xagel's Cobalt-electroplating. .3766 
Naffel's Nickel-electroplating. .3763 
Nails, Finger, Treatment of. ..5823 

Nails, Iron, for Wall-trees 1885 

Nails, Number of to the Pound 6146 
Nails, Toe, Treatment of. 5827, Arc. 

Nankeen Dye for Cottons 136 

Nankeen Dye for Silks 269 

Nap, to raise the, on Cloth 461 

Naphtha 1527 

Naples AVater 4465 

Naples Yellow 2709 

Napoleon-Blue Dye for Cottons 132 

Napoleon's Pecto'ral Pills 5253 

Narcissus Pomade 1263 

Narcotic Glvcerole 5016 

Narcotine .' 3999 

Nasturtiums. Pickled 1801 

Nautical Measure 6010 

Nautical Time 6011 

Neats-Foot Oil 1513 

Neats-Foot Oil, to refine 1514 

Neats-Foot Oil, to test 1493 

Neck, Stiff, Cure for 5640 

Nectar Cream Syrup 1434 

Nectar Lemon Soda 917 

Nectar Syrup 1419, (fee. 

Nelson's Patent Gelatine 4368 

Neroli, Essence of 961 

Neroli, Oil of 1227 

Neroli, Oil of, Test for 1483 

Nerve and Bone Liniment 4893, 5224 

Nerve Powder 5571 

Nervines 5569, &c. 

Nervine Balsam 5113, 5340 

Nervine Mixture 5123 

Nervous Headache, to cure 5704, &c. 

Nervous Mixture 5572 

Nervous Pill 5573 

Nervous Tincture 5574 

Nervousness, Treatment of 5570 

Netherlands, Money of the 6084 

Netherlands. Weights and Mea- 
sures of the 6085, (fee. 

Neuralgia, Liniment for.. 4858, 5218 

5220. 
Neuralgia, Ointment for. 4979, 4982 
Neuralgia, Remedies for.. 5544, <fec. 

Neuralgia, Wine for 5408 

Neutral Solution 29 

Neutralization 3846 

Neutralizing Cordial 5394,5424 

Neutralizing Mixture 5666 

New England Rum, to distill.. 931 
New England Rum, Yeast for. 932 
NeweU's Compound Tar Oint- 
ment 5288 

New York Pills 5300 

Nicholson's Blue Aniline Dye. .2606 

Nickel ..3323 

Nickel," Alloys' oK '. '. '3410," '&C.V3439 
Nickel. Chloride or Mui-iate of. 4174 

Nickel, Oxalate of 4178 

Nickel, Oxide of 4175, &c. 

Nickel. Salts of, Test for 4179 

Nickel Silver 3348 

Nickel, Sidphate of 4177 

Nickel, to coat Metal with 3659 

Nickel, to electroplate with 3762 

Nicotine or Nicotia 4019 

Night, to find the Length of the 61.53 
Ni ghtraare, Precautions against 57S'4 

Nightmare, to prevent 5785 

Nightshade Leaves, Oil of 4752 

Nightsweats, Remedy for 5787 

Nightsweats, to relieve . . 5788, <fec. 
Nimmo's Solution of Croton 0115413 
Ninon de rinclos. Pomade de.ll63 

Nipples, Sore, Lotion for 1156 

Nipples, Sore, Ointment for . . .4985 

Nipples, Sore, to cure 5730 

Nipple Wash 5393 

Nitrates 3872 

Nitrate of Baryta 4230 

Nitrate of Baryta Solution 4782 



Nitrate of Bismuth 4134, 41 35 

Nitrate of Cobalt 42.50 

Nitrate of Copper 4091 

Nitrate of Copper Solution 97 

Nitrate of Iron 116, 4171, 4172 

Nitrate of Lead 4107 

Nitrate of Lime 2223 

Nitrate of Mercury 4144 

Nitrate of Mercuiy, Glycerina- 

ted 5012 

Nitrate of Potassa 4194 

Nitrate of Silver 4077 

Nitrate of Silver, Lotion of 4829 

Nitrate of Silver, Antidotes for 5905 
Nitrate of Silver, Caustic, to ap- 
ply 5080 

Nitrate of Silver from Silver Al- 
loy 4080 

Nitrate of Silver Solution . 4783,4802 
Nitrate of Silver Stains, to re- 
move 3141, 6339 

Nitrate of Tin 4121 

Nitrate of Urea 4323, 4324 

Nitrated Photographic Paper. .3169 

Nitre 4194 

Nitre, Sweet Spirit of 4289 

Nitre, to purify 4195 

Nitric Acid 3872 

Nitric Acid, Dilute 3876 

Nitric Acid, Fuming 3877 

Nitric Acid. Lotion of 4818 

Nitric Acid, Table of Percen- 
tage of 3878 

Nitric Acid, Tests for 3875 

Nitric Acid, Tests for, in Sul- 
phuric Acid 3861 

Nitric Acid, to obtain 3873 

Nitric Acid, to purify 3874 

Nitric Acid, to remove, from 

Sulphuric Acid 3862 

Nitric Ether 4287 

Nitric Oxide 3872 

Nitrite of Potassa 4189 

Nitro-Benzole 4322 

Nitrogen 4057 

Nitrogen, Protoxide of 4060 

Nitrogen, Test for 4058 

Nitrogen, to obtain 4059 

Nitro-Glycerine 2142, 2143 

Nitromuriates 3879 

Nitromnriate of Platinum 3220 

Nitromuriatic Acid 3879 

Nitromuriatic Acid, Dilute 3881 

Nitroprusside of Sodium 4217 

Nitrosulphuric Acid 3871 

Nitrous Acid 3877 

Nitrous Ether 4288 

Nitrous Oxide 3872, 4060 

Noble's Tonic Elixir 5407 

Nocturnal Emissions, to cure. .5739 
5746. 

Nomenclature, Chemical 38.53 

Nonpareil Bitters 824 

Nordhausen Sulphuric Acid.. .3858 

Normandy's Alkalimeter 82 

Norris' Soda Mint 5397 

Norwood's Tincture of Helle- 
bore 4515 

Nose, Bleeding from the, to stop 5565 

Novargent 3602 

Number Six, Thompson's 5177 

Nuremberg Plaster 5383 

Nut-Galls. see Galls. 

Nut-Oil, French, to detect 1498,1499 

Nut-Oil. India, Tests for 1497 

Nutmeg, Extract of 1037 

Nutmeg, Tincture of 1015 

Nutmeg, Oil of 1227 ! 

Nutritive Wine 4723 [ 

Nux "Vomica, Antidotes for 5912 

Nux Vomica, Tincture of 4520 

Oak, Poison, Remedies for 5930. &c. 
Ochre 2702 

Odontine 1313, 1314 

Odoriferous Water 1070 

CEnanthic Ether 4296 

CEnanthylate of Ethyl 4296 

Oeden's Chlorodyne 5201 

Oil, Black 4872 

Oil-Blacking for Boots, dec, 3087, &c. 

Oil, Boiled, for Drying 2726, &c. 

Oil, BoUed, for Vamish 2872 



Oil, British .5361 

Oil, Camphorated 4863 

Oil, Carron 5513 

Oil, Castor, to purify and sweet- 
en 1,503 

Oil, Castor, to test 1.501 

Oil-Cloths, to clean 425 

Oil-Cloths, to keep, in order 424 

Oil, Coal, Crude, See Petkoleum. 
Oil, Coal, Refined, See Kerosene. 

Oil, Cocoa-nut .527 

Oil Colors, to mix 2761 

Oil, Cotton-seed, to bleach 1510 

Oil, Drying 2726, &c. 

Oil for Incipient Baldness 1251 

Oil Gilding 3570, 3581 

Oil, Green 5385 

Oil, Kerosene, see Kerosene Oil. 

Oil, Neats-foot 1513 

Oil, Neats-foot, to refine 1.514 

Oil of Aloes 1465 

Oil of Almonds.Non-poisonous 1.512 

Oil of Ambergris 1227, 1240 

Oil of Ambergris and Musk . . .1237 

Oil of Anise 1465 

Oil of Apple 1469, 4303 

Oil of Balsam Apple 4752 

Oil of Balsam of Peru 1241 

Oil of Bark 46 

Oil of Belladonna 4752 

Oil of Benzoin 1242 

Oil of Bergamot 1227 

Oil of Bergamot, Test for 1480 

Oil of Bergamot Pear 4302 

Oil of Bitter Almonds 1465 

Oil of Bitter Almonds, Facti- 
tious 4322 

Oil of Bitter Almonds, Non-poi- 
sonous 1512 

Oil of Bitter Almonds, Test for 1479 

Oil of Brown Paper 5522 

Oil of Calamus 1465 

Oil of Cantharides 4752 

Oil of Capsicum 4752 

Oil of Caraway 1465 

Oil of Cassia 1227 

Oil of Chamomile 4752 

Oil of Cinnamon 1227, 1465 

Oil of Cinnamon, Test for 1481 

Oil of Civet 1228 

Oil of Cloves 1227, 1465 

Oil of Cloves, Test for 1485 

Oil of Cognac 1468 

Oil of Cognac, Test for 677 

Oil of Elder-flowers 4752 

Oil of Feunel 1465 

Oil of Fenugreek 4752 

Oil of Foxcriove 4752 

Oilof GarUc 4752 

Oil of Gladness 5344 

Oil of Hemlock (Conium) 4752 

Oil of Henbane 4752 

Oil of Henbane, Imitation 5385 

Oil of Horsemint 1465 

Oil of Jargonelle Pear, Facti- 
tious 1470, 4302 

Oil of Juniper Berries. . . 1465, 4752 

Oil of Lavender 1227, 1465 

Oil of Lavender, Test for 1482 

Oil of Lemon 1227, 1465 

Oil of Lemon, to keep 1473 

OO of Lemon, to restore 1472 

Oil of Lilies. White 47.52 

Oil of Male-fern 4.585 

Oil of Marsh-mallow Root 4752 

Oil of Millefli'iir 1227 

Oil of Mudar Bark 4752 

Oil of Musk 1227,1236 

Oil of Mustard 1465 

Oil of Neroli 1227 

Oil of Neroli, Test for 1483 

Oil of Nightshade Leaves 4752 

Oil of Nutmeg 1227 

Oil of Opium 4752 

Oil of Orange Flowers 1227 

Oil of Origanum 1465 

Oil of Pear, Factitious . . . 1470, 4302 

Oil of Pellitory Root 4752 

Oil of Pennyroyal 1465 

Oil of Pepper 4752 

Oil of Peppermint 1465 

Oil of Pimento 1465 

Oil of Pineapple 4293 



590 



OIL — OIN 



OIN — OPI 



opi — oxr 



Oil of Poison-Oak Leaves 4752 

Oil of Quince, Factitious. 1471, 4296 

Oil of Ehodium-'n'ood 1465 

Oil of Eose 1227, 1229, 4752 

Oil of r.ose. Test for 1484 

Oil of Eue 4752 

Oil of St. John's "^ort 4752 

Oil of Sandal-wood 1465 

Oil of Sassafras 1465 

Oil of Sarine 1465 

Oil of Spearmint 14G5 

Oil of Spike, Factitious 4373 

Oil of Stone 5301, 5362 

Oil of Storax or Styrax 1238 

Oil of Tobacco 1465, 4752 

Oil of Turpentine 431 7 

Oil of Turpentine for bleaching 510 

Oil of Valerian 14G5 

OilofTanilla 1239, 1247 

Oil of Vitriol 3855 

Oil of Wormseed Mixture 5646 

Oil, Olive, to refine 1502, ] 551 

OU, Olive, to test 15C0 

Oil-Paint Stains, to remove 339 

OU Paintings, to clean 406, Sze. 

on Paintings, to preserA-e 6375 

Oil Paintings, to remove the 

Varnish from 405 

Oil Paintings, to restore 6375 

Oil Paintings, Varnish for 2914, 2936 

Oil, Palm 528 

Oil, Palm, to bleach 537, 1509 

Oil, Phosphorescent 4339 

Oil Size for Gilding 3571, 3580 

Oil-Stains, to remove, from 

Boards 394 

Oil-Stains, to remove, fi'om Car- 
pets 357 

Oil-Stains, to remove, from Cot- 
tons 126 

Oil-Stains, to remove,from Leath- 
er 359 

Oil-Stains, to remove, from Mar- 
ble 394 

Oil-Stains, to remove, from Pa- 
per 359 

Oil Stones, see Hoxes. 

Oil, to take, out of Leather 3077 

Oil, Trotter 1513 

Oil, Tr«ttcr, to refine 1514 

Oil Varnishes 2874, <fcc. 

Oil, Vermifuge 5643 

Oil, Watchmakers' 1549, &c. 

Oil, Whale, to deodorize Putrid 1488 

Oiled Paper 1939, Sec. 

Oils, Essential, see Essential Oils. 
Oils, Hair, see IIaiu Oil. 

Oils, Lubricating, to refine 1495 

Oils, Medicated 4752 

Oils, Perfumed 1226, &c. 

OUs, Perfumed by Enfl enrage. .1229 

Oils, Perfumed by Essences 1227 

Oils, Perfumed by Infusion 1228 

OUs, Pancid, to restore... 1489, &c. 
Oils, Panciditv in, to prevent.. 1491 

Oils, Scented.'- 1226 

OUs, Tests for 1496, &e. 

Oils, to bleach 1504, &c. 

Oils, to detect Admixture in . . . 1477 

1478. 
Oils, Vegetable, to bleach 1504, &c. 
Oils. Volatile, see Essential Oils. 

Ointments 4931, &c. 

Ointments, to keep, from getting 

Pancid 5008 

Ointment, Aconitine 4C84 

Ointment, Ammoniacal.. 4944, 5477 

Ointment, Astringent 4978 

Ointment, Basilicon 4964 

Ointment, Belladonna 4943, 4983 

Ointment, Bittor-s-R-ect 4977 

Ointment, Black Basilicon 4966 

Ointment, Borax 4951 , 4952 

Ointment, Brovrn 4959 

Ointment, Camphor 4941, 5403 

Ointment, Cancer 53oG 

Ointment, Cantharides...5010, 5017 

Ointment, Catechu 4945 

Ointment, Chloroform 4982 

Ointment, Citrine 4947 

Ointment, Cod-liver Oil 4075 

Ointment, Creosote 4953, 5404 

Ointment. Croton Oil 5762 



Ointment, Cucumber 5000 

Ointment, Egyptian 5005 

Ointment for Baker's Itch 4957 

Ointment for Chilblains 4934 

Ointment for Cracked-hoof 5002 

Ointment for Foot-rot 5C01 

Ointment for Issue 5284 

Ointment for Itch. . .4954, 4999, 5239 

5243 5322. 
Ointment for Neuralgia . .4979, 4982 

Ointment for Old Sores 4976 

Ointment for Piles 4986, &c. 

Ointment for Salt Pvheum 4962 

Ointment for Sore IsTipples 4985 

Ointment for Vermin 5395 

Ointment, Fuligokali 5380 

Ointment, GaUT Compound 5006 

Ointment, Glycerine 5009 

Ointment, Green 4974 

Ointment, Green Basilicon 4967 

Ointment, Iodide of Lead 4991 

Ointment, Iodide of Potassium . 5013 
Ointment, Iodide of Sulphur ..4950 
Ointment, Iodine, Compound -.4942 
Ointment, Iodine, Glycerinated 5015 

Ointment. Iodoform 4992 

Ointment, Lard 4937 

Ointment, Lead 4980 

Ointment, Magnetic 4963 

Ointment, Mercurial 4948, 5011 

Ointment, Xarcotic 5016 

Ointment, Xitrate of Mercury ..5012 

Ointment, Obstetric 5341 

Ointment of "Three" 5294 

Ointment, Petroleum 5014 

Ointment, Pesin 4964 

Ointment, Eheumatic 5293 

Ointment, Savine 4938 

Ointment, Spermaceti 4940 

Ointment, Starch, Glycerinated 5009 

Ointment. Stavesacre 4056 

Ointment, Stramonium 4946 

Ointment, Sulphur 4998 

Ointment, TannateofMagnesia4994 

Ointment, Tannin 4986 

Ointment, Tar 4960, 5288 

Ointment, Tartar-emetic 4995 

Ointment, Tobacco.. 4D61, 5290, &.c. 
Ointment, Venice Turpentine.. 4958 

Ointment, Vermin 5395 

Ointment, Wax 4939 

Ointment, Wonderful 4895 

Ointment, Yellow Basilicon 49G5 

Ointment, Zinc 4981 

Old Tom Gin, .Imitation 698 

Olefiant Gas 4C51 

Oleine 1550 

Oleoresins 4573, 4."S79, &c. 

Cleoresin of Black Pepper 4583 

Cleoresin cf Capsicum 45c0 

Cleoresin of Cubebs 4581 

Oleoresin of Ginger 4584 

Oleoresin of Lupulin 4582 

Oleoresin of Male Fern 4585 

Olive-Drab Lve for Cottons 178 

Olive-Dve for' Cottons 166, &c. 

Olive-Dye for SUks 281 

Olive-Dye for Woolens 209, 228 

Olive-Enamels 2384 

Olive-Oil Soft-soap 6G5 

OHve-Oil, Test for 1498, 1 500 

Olive-Oil, to refine 1502 

Onions as a Disinfectant 1706 

Onions, Piebled 1794 

Onions, to correct the Odor of, 

in the Breath 5864 

Onions, to prescrA'C 1888 

Onions, to prevent Grub in 1856 

Opal, Imitation 2431 

Opiate Tooth-paste 1320 

Opiated Wine of Colchicum ...5389 

Opium 4268 

Opium, Antidotes for 5909 

Opium, Elixir cf 4735 

Opium Liniment 4878 

Opium, Gil cf 4752 

Opium, Percentage of Morphine 

in 3998 

Opium Pills 4914 

Opium, Solution cf 5412 

Opium, Substitute for 5132 

Opiiun, Tests for 4269, 4270 

Opium, Tincture of 4529 



Opium, Tincture of. Ammonia- 
ted 4530 

Opiimi, Tincture of, Camphora- 
ted 4527 

Opium, Tincture of. Compound 4531 
Opodeldoc 4869, 4870, 5443, &c. 6404 

Optical Glass 2352 

Optician's Cement 2229 

Ormolu 3425 

Orangeade 910 

Orange Aniline Dye 2596 

Orange Bitters. . .'. 831 

Orange-Blossom, Essence of. . . 961 

Orange-Blossom Pomade 1262 

Orange-Chrome 2707 

Orange-Color Bronzing 3784 

Orange-Color Dye for Cottons. 159 

Orange-Color Dye for Silks 271 

Orange-Color Dye for Wood. . .2835 
Orange-Color Dye for Woolens. 203 

Orange-Color Hair Oil 1234 

Orange Enamels 2385 

Orange Essence 951 

Orange Essence, Artificial 1053 

Orange Extract 1032 

Orange Fire 2C89 

Orange-Flovrer. Oil of 1227 

Orange-Flovrer Pomade 1263 

Orange-Flovrer Soap 572 

Oranere-Flower Syrup 1417 

Orange-Flower Water... 1009, 1071 
1073. 

Orange Juice, Imitation 913 

Orange-Marble for Books.311fi,3121 

Orangc-Peel, Essence of 951 

Orange-Peel Flavoring 667 

Orange-Peel Svrup 1 382 

Orange Tint for Brass 3383 

Orange Tonic 5122 

Orange Syrup 1410 

Ores, Flux for Pcducing 34f]4 

Ores, Lead, to test the Kich- 

ness of 3255 

Ores, Iron, to test the Pichness 

of 3259 

Organic Matter, Test for 4395 

Orgeat Syrup 1376, 1415 

Orgeat Syrup, Imitation 1416 

Origanum, Essentir.l Oil cf 1465 

Ornaments, Composition for. . .2202 

Oroide 3431 

Orris, Essence of 949 

On-is Powder 1101 

Orris Tooth-paste 1321 

Orris-Poot Flavoring 669 

Orris-Poot, Fluid Extract of. ..4579 

Orris-Root Pomade 1262 

Osborne's Syrup 46.57 

Osgood's Indian Cholagoguc, 

Substitute for 5396 

Ostrich Feathers, to clean 655 

Ottawa Boot Beer 892 

Otto of Poses 975 

Over-Shoes, to mend 6374 

Oxacids 4C34 

Oxalates 390O 

Oxalate of Iron 4158 

Oxalate of ]S^ickel 4178 

Oxalic Acid 3900 

Oxalic Acid, Pure 3903 

Oxalic Acid, to distinguish, 

from Epsom Salts 3904 

Oxalic A cid, to obtain 3901 

Ox-Gall for removing Spots 373 

Ox-Gall for Washing 489 

Ox-Gall Soap ." 552 

Ox-Gall, to refine 441 

Oxide. Carbonic 4064 

Oxide, Nitric 3872 

Oxide, Nitrous 3872,4060 

Oxide of Antimony 4130 

Oxide of Barium 4235, 4236 

Oxide of Bismuth 4136 

Oxide of Chromium 27CI 

Oxide of Cobalt 4250 

Oxide of Copper 4092, 4094, 4095 

Oxid e of Ethyl 4279 

Oxide of Iron 41.51, 41.53, Sec. 

Oxide of Iron, Tests for Solutions 

of '.....4152, 4157 

Oxide of Lead 2744,4106 

Oxide of Manganese 4173, 42.55 

Oxide of Mercury 4141, 4143 



OXI — PAP 



PAP — PAR 



PAR — PEA 



591 



Oxide of Nickel 4175, 4176 

Oxide of Nitrogen 4060 

Oxide of Silver 4078 

Oxide of Tin 4119, <tc. 

Oxide of Zinc 4117 

Oxli'v's Essence of Ginger 4620 

Oxygen 4034 

Oxygen, to obtain 4033 

Oxygen for Inhalation 4038 

Oxygen, Tests for 4040 

Oxygen, to obtain 4035, <fcc. 

Oxymel 4690, &c. 

Oxymel of SciuiUs 4692 

Oxymel, Simple 4691 

Oxymuriate of Lime 4245 

Oxysulphuret of Antimony 5467 

Pain-KiUer....4881, 4882, 5410, 5867 

Pains after Child-birth 5722 

Paint, Fireproof 2772 

Paint, PMexiOle, for Canvas 2765 

Paint for Boat-bottoms 2771 

Paint for Boilers 2774 

Paint for Iron- work 2768 

Paiut for Old Houses 2773 

Paint for Out-door Work. 2766, &.c. 

Paint for the Skin 1107 

Paiut for Weatherboards 2771 

Paint, Table for Mixing... 2761, &c. 

Paint, to clean 435 

Paiut Stiiins, to remove from 

Clothes 339, &c. 

Paiut, Sticky, to harden 2779 

Paiut, to economize 2781 

Paint, to make, dry quickly . . .2743 
Paiut, to remove, from Old 

Work 2787 

Paint, to remove, from Stone.. 278J 
Paiut, to remove, from Wood. .2788 
Paiut, to remove the Smell of. .2776 

Paint, Varnished, to clean 436 

Paint, when to Apply 2755 

Paiut without Oil or Lead 2770 

Paiut-Cans, to clean 2791 

Paiut-Skius, to reduce 2775 

Painters, Caution to 5539 

Painters' Colic, to cure 5693 

Painters' Putty 2242 

Paiuters' Size 2757 

Paiutmg, House 2745, &c. 

Painting in Milk 2769 

Paint) ug, to kill Grease-spots 

before 2778 

Painting, to kill Knots before.. 2777 
Painting, to prepare Walls for. 2763 

2780. 
Paintings, see Oil Paixtings. 

Pakfoug 3412, 3415 

Palatine-Orange Aniline Dye. .2596 
Palladium, Electroplating with 3761 

Palm Oil 528 

Palm Oil, to bleach 537, 15 J9 

Palm Oil Soap 543 

Palm Soap 567 

Palma Christi Pomade 1276 

Palpitation of the Heart, to re- 
lieve 5766 

Pancoast's Alterative Pills 5166 

Pancoasts Styptic 5558 

Paper, Albumenized Photo- 
graphic 3132, 3178 

Paper, Atropine 5807 

Paper, Bromide Photographic . 31 72 

Paper, Calotype 3176 

Paper, Chromatype 3173 

Paper, Copying 1048 

Paper, Crysotype 3173 

Paper, Cyanotype 3174 

Paper, Drawing, Sizes of 6131 

Paper, Emery 1935 

Paper, i'ancy. Cement for 2159 

Paper, Fireproof 1941, Sec. 

Paper for producing Flashes of 

Colored Light 2125 

Paper, Glass, for Polishing 1^33 

Paper, Hydro^raphic 1976 

Paper, Iodized Puotographic ..3171 

Paper, Iridescent 1931 

Paper, Lithographic 1955, &c. 

Paper, Muriatcd Photographic 3170 
Paper, Nitrated Photographic 3169 

Paper, Oiled 1939 

Paper, Parchment 1965 



Paper, Parchment, to paste 1966 

Paper. Phen vl 1936 

Paper, Photographic 3168, 3177 

Paper, Prepared 1925, &.c. 

Paper, Printed, to clean 1973 

Paper, Soiled, to clean 6398, &,c. 

Paper, Solvent for 1937 

Paper, Stone, for Polishing 1934 

Paper, Styptic 5.561 

Paper, Tapioca Photographic .3157 

Paper, Test 4408, &c. 

Paper, to bronze 3793 

Paper, to detect Arsenic in 4383 

Paper, to detect Plaster in 1946 

Paper, to detect Wood in 1947 

Paper, to Electrotype, &c., on 3738 
Paper, to extract Sizing from. .6403 

Paper, to gild on 3574, 3579, 3738 

Paper, to prepare, for Photo- 
graphy 3131, <S:c., 3177 

Paper, to prepare, for Varnish- 
ing 1951 

Paper, to remove Grease from. 411 
Paper, to remove Water-stains 

from 6398 

Paper, to silver 3628, 3738 

Paper, to size 1952 

Paper, to take Creases out of . .1963 
Paper, to transfer Engravings 

to 1974 

Paper, to unroll and flatten 6397 

Paper, to varnish 2965 

Paper, to write on Greasy 2506 

Paper, Touch, for Fireworks. .2059 

Paper, Tracing 1927, &c. 

Paper, Transfer 1926 

Paper, Transparent 1929 

Paper, Waterproof 1941, 1944 

Paper, Waxed 1938 

Paper, Waxed Photographic ..3179 

Paper-Hangers' Paste 2272 

Paper-Hanging 2810, <fcc. 

Paper-Hanging, Glue-siding for 2815 
Paper-Hanging on Whitewashed 

Walls 2808 

Paper-Hanging. Paste for 2812 

Paper-Hanging, to prepare 

Walls for 2811 

Paper-Hanging, Utensils for.. .2812 
Paper-Hanging, Varnish for. . .2938 

Paper-Hangiugs, to clean 409 

Paper-Hangings, to remove 

Grease from 410 

Paper, Wall, to apply 2814 

Paper, Wall, to prepare, for 

Hanging 2813 

Papier Epispastique de Vee . . .5238 

Papier Fayard 5237 

Papier Fa} ard et Blayn 5236 

Papier Mache 1945 

Papier Mache, to clean 415 

Papier Saxe 3130 

Papvriue 1968 

Paraffiue 1527 

Parallelograms, Areas of 5989 

Paramalic Acid 3967 

Paramorphine 4001 

Parcel, How to tie a 6266 

Parchment, Artificial 1965 

Parchment Paper 1965, &c. 

Parchment Paper, to paste 1966 

Parchment Size 3559 

Parchment, to color 1969 

Parchment, to gUJ on 3579 

Parchment to make, transpar- 
ent 1C64 

Parchment, to write on 2506 

Parefforic 4527, 4528 

Pareu-a, Fluid Extract of 46;;6 

Pareira Brava, Decoction of. .5310 
Parent's Method of Preserving 

Wines 761 

Paris' Fumigating Pastils 1338 

Paris Round Soap 596 

Paris Tablet Soap 5i/5 

Parisels Citrate of Magnesia. .4806 

Parisian Diamonds 2444 

Parisian Wash to darken the 

Hair 1183 

Parker's Cement 2210 

Parlor Matches 2146 

Parrish's Aloes and Mandrake 
Pills 5191 



Parrife'j/s Cathartic PUls 5317 

Parrish's Chemical Food 4644 

Parrish's Cologne Water 983 

Parrish's Compound Tobacco 

Ointment 5292 

Parrish's Fluid Extract of Bu- 

chu 4590 

Parrish's Quinine Pills 5434 

Parrish's Sarsaparilla Syrup. . . 1391 

Parrish's Strawberry Syrup 1374 

Parrish's Syrup Filter 1359 

Parrish's Syrup of Hypophos- 

phites. .'. 4643. 

Parrots, to teach, how to Speak 6185 
Parts by Volume, to reduce, to 

parts by Weight 6152 

Passini's Antiseptic Solution.. 1661 

Passy Water, Aerated 4472 

Paste, Almond 1123 

Paste, Almond and Honey 1134 

Paste, Azure, for the Skin 1114 

' Paste, Bitter-almond 1124 

Paste, Depilatory 1223 

Paste, Flour 2271, &c. 

Paste for Artificial Gems 2352, 2419 
Paste for Cementing Leather 

or Cloth to Wood 2275 

Paste for cleaning Brass 3391 

Paste for Enamels 2379 

Paste, Glycerine 2299, 5226 

Paste for Gold-plating 3.593 

Paste for Paper-hanging 2272, 2812 
Paste for polishing Furniture 2988 
2990. 

Paste for Pazor-strops 6247 

Paste for Silver-plating 3603 

Paste for Toothache 5872 

Paste, Pectoral 5269 

Paste, Phosphorus, for Vermin 1899 

Paste, Shaving 1165 

Paste, to make Moulds of Fig- 
ures in 3683 

Pasteur's method of preserving 

Wines 759 

Pastilles aux Fleurs d'0range..l342 

Pastilles a la Rose 1343 

Pastilles a la Vanille 1344 

Pastils for Fumigating 1337, &c. 

Pastils for the Breath 1336, 5405 

5462. 

Pastils of every Variety 1345 

Patchouli, Essence of 966 

Patchouli, Excract of 1069 

Pate d'Amande an Miel 1134 

Pate pour faire la Barbe 1165 

Patent and Proprietary Medi- 
cines 5171, &e. 

Patent Base for making Artifi- 
cial Gems 2422 

Patent Blue Ink 2481, 2488 

Patent Boot Blacking 3092,3099, 3101 

Patent Dryer 2739 

Patent Gelatine 4368 

Patent Leather, Polish for 3072 

Patent Wash Mixture 480 

Patent Yeast 1814 

Patey's Orris Tooth-paste 1321 

Pattersons Emulsion of Pump- 
kin-seeds 5432 

Peach Brandy 785 

Peach Brandy, Imitation 813 

Peach-Colored Dye for Cottons 174 

Peach Essence, Artificial 1C46 

Peach Flavoring for Liquors 674 

6294. 

Peach-Kernels, Essence of 943 

Peach-Leaf Water 1071, 1C73 

Peaches, to cau 1636, 1639 

Peaches, to dry 1640 

Peaches, to keep fresh.. 1638, 1641 
Peale's Method of obtaining 

pure Silver 3216 

Pear E.ssence, Artificial 1052 

Pear, Jargonelle, Esseutial Oil 

of 1470 

Pear Syrup 1411 

Pears, to can 1636 

Pears, to drv 1640 

Peai-s, to keep fresh 1638, 1641 

Pearlash, Commercial 4181 

Pearl Dentifrice 1303 

Pearl Powder for the Skin 1110 

Pearl Tooth Powder 1303 



592 



PEA — PER 



PER — PHO 



PHO — PIE 



Pearl White Bre for Silks 263 

Pearl White for the Skin 1109, 4135 
Pearson's Arsenical Solution .. 5299 

Peau d'Espagne 1355 

Pectoral Balsam 5097 

Pectoral, Cherrv 5267 

Pectoral Drops 5193 

Pectoral Elixii- 5445 

Pectoral Paste 5269 

Pectoral Pills 5253 

Pectoral Svrup 5265 

Pelargonic'Ether 1471 , 4296 

Pelargoniums, Mildew on, to 

remove 1850 

Peligofs Bohemian Tube Glass 2340 
Pelletiers Quinine Dentifrice.. 1304 

Pelletier's Odontine 1314 

Pellitory, Fluid Extract of 4579 

Pellitorr, Oil of . . .4752 

Pellitory. Tincture of, Com- 
pound - 4532 

Pelouze"s German Silver 3413 

Pelouze"s Process for preserving 

Meat 1605 

Pencil, to, Brick- work 2792 

Pencil Drawings, to fix.. .1959, &c. 
Pencil Drawings, to protect . . . 6363 
Pencils for Writing on Glass.. 6390 

."Pencils, Lead for 6197 

^ eudnlum Measure 5980 

Pennyroyal, Essential Oil of. . . 1465 
Peonv. see Pceonia. 

Pepper, Black, Extract of 1039 

Pepper, Black, Oil of 4752 

Pepper, Black, Tincture |of 4495 

Pepper, Cayenne 1789 

Pepper Vinegar 1776 

Peppermint Brandy 787 

Peppermint, Essence of 4610 

Peppermint, Essential Oil of. . .1465 

Peppermint Water 4758 

Peppers, Pickled 1796 

Pepsine 5680 

Pepsine and Ii'on Pills 4928 

Pepsine, Bismuth and Strych- 
nia, Wine of ". 4724 

Pepsine, Elixir of 4718, (fcc. 

Pepsine Pills 5457, 5460 

Pepsine, Svrup of 4684 

Pepsine Wine 4721, 4726 

Perchloraies, see Chlorates. 

Perchloric Acid 3964 

Perchloric Acid, to obtain 3965 

Perchloride of Iron, Solution of 4816 
Perchlorides, see Chlorides. 

Percolation 41, 4572 

Percolators 41 

Percussion Caps, Priming for. .2138 

Percussion Pellets 2139 

Perfumed Essences 940 

Perfumed Oils 1226, &c. 

Perfumed Oils by Enfleurage.-1229 

Perfumed Oils by Infusion 1228 

Perfumed Oils from Essential 

Oils - 1227 

Perfumed Powders 1099, Sec. 

Perfumed Sealing-wax 2325 

Perfumed Spirits 940, 976, 998 

Perfumed Waters 1070 <fec. 

Perfumed Waters, Practical 

Hints for 1076 

Perfumed Waters, Proportions 

of Aromaticsfor 1071 

Perfumed Waters, Soubeiran's 

Apparatus for 1077 

Perfumed Waters, to distill 1073 

Perfumed Waters, to prevent, 

from Souring 1075 

Perfumed Waters, to remove 

the Burnt Smell from 1074 

Perfumers' Fumigating Pastils 1339 
Perfumerv, General Eeceipts 

for....." 939, &c. 

Perfumes, Acetic 1088 

Perfumes, Ammoniated 1095 

Perfumes, Economical 1026 

Peristaltic Persuader Pills 5173.5320 

Permanganates .3941, 4190 

Permanganate of Potassa 3941, 4190 
Permanganate of Potassa Hair 

Dye 1211 

Permanccanate of Potassa Solu- 
tion. .7 4796, 4798 



' Permanganate of Potassa, Tests 

for 4191 

Permanganic Acid 3941 

Pennuriates. see Ml'RIAtes. 
Peroxides, see Oxides. 

Perry's Toothache Essence 5874 

, Persian Balsam 5419 

i Persoz's Aniline Black 2574 

I Perspiration in the Feet, to 

I absorb 5846 

I Perspiration, to preserve Kid- 

I Gloves from 6243 

j Perspiration, to remove Stains 

I of 505 

' Perspiration, to restrain 5786 

i Peru, Balsam of. Factitious 5108 

! Peru. Balsam of Test for 5109 

; Peruvian Bark and Protoxide 

of Iron. Ebxir of 4702 

i Peruvian Bark. Decoction of. ..5127 
i Peruvian Bark. Infusion of. . . 5128 
Peruvian Bark, to prevent Sedi- 
ment in Preparations of 4709 

Peruvian Bark Tooth-paste 1310 

Peruvian Bitters 822 

Peruvian Lip-salve 1170 

Peruvian Pomade 1269 

. Peruvian Tooth-paste 1318 

Petalite 4239 

i Peters Pills 5185 

, Petrifv, to, Wooden Objects. . .1686 

! Petroleum 1526 

' Petroleum, Cement to resist 2162 

I Petroleum for turning Metals 3449 

' Petroleum, Glycerinated 5014 

j Petroleum Liniment 4877, 5402, 5836 
I Petroleum, to extinguish Bum- 

j ing 1532 

Petroleum, to purify 1527 

j Pettenkofer's Test for Bile in 

i Urine 4398 

: Pettijean's Silvering on Glass.. 3617 

i Pew s Composition 2173 

' Pewter 3422 

I Pewter, Flux for Soldering 3483 

I Pewter, Solder for 3502 

j PfundheUer's Baiwtes White. . .2698 
Pharaoh's Serpent's Eggs . 6296, 6297 

I Phenic Acid 3916 

Phenol or Phen vie 2588, 3916 

Phenvl. Hvdrat'e of 3916 

Phenvi Paper 1936 

Phials, to clean 432 

Phillips' Fire Ajinihilator 6379 

Phillips' Syrup of Sesquichloride 

of Iron 4665 

Philocome 1270 

Philosophical Instruments, Lac- 
quer for 3062 

Phosphates 3920 

Phosphate for Manuring 1830 

Phosphate of Iron 4631 

Phosphate of Iron, Syrup of. ..4632 

4634. 
Phosphate of Iron, Syrup of, 

with Manganese 4634 

Phosphate of Iron, Syrup of, 

with Quinine 4628 

Phosphate of Iron, Syrup of, 

with Quinine and Strychnine 4629 
Phosphate of Iron, Syrup of, 

with Strychnine. . .*. 4630 

Phosphate'of Iron and Lime, 

Syrup of 4635 

Phosphate of Lime 4635 

Phosphate of Lime, Syrup of. . .4636 

Phosphate of Manganese 4633 

Phosphate of Manganese, Syrup 

of 4633 

Phosphate of Quinine, Svrup of 4627 

Phosphate of Soda *. 4210 

Phosphate of Zinc, Svrup of. ..4626 

Phosphides ' 4332 

Phosphiue Aniline Dye 2597 

Phosphites -■.3927 

Phosphorated Ether 4748 | 

Phosphorescent OU 4339 

Phosphoric Acid 3920 ' 

Phosphoric Acid, Anhydrous. .3923 
Phosphoric Acid, Commercial. 3921 

Phosphoric Acid, Dilute 3924 

Phosphoric Acid, Glacial or Hy- 
drated 3922 i 



Phosphoric Acid, Tests for . . . 392 
3926. 

Phosphorous Acid 3927 

Phosphorus 4332, &c. 

Phosphorus, Antidote for 5906 

Phosphorus Bottles 4336 

Phosphorus Bronzes 3447 

Phosphorus Paste for Vermin 1899 
Phosphorus, to coat, with Cop- 
per 4337 

Phosphorus, to obtain 4333 

Phospliorus, to reduce, to Pow- 
der 4338 

Phosphurets, see Phosphides. 

Phosphuretted Hydrogen 4055 

Phosphuretted Hydrogen, to ob- 
tain ' 40.56 

Photographers, India-rubber 

Glue for 2293 

Photographic Cliches, to make 3142 
Photographic Impressions with 

Fuchsine 3156 

Photographs, Cameo, to Enam- 
el 3155 

Photographs, Collodion Var- 
nish for 3162 

Photographs, Developing Solu- 
tion for 3151,-3152 

Photographs, Enamel for 2402 

Photographs, Everlasting, on 

Enamel 3164 

Photographs, Fixing Bath for. .3139 
Photographs, Xegative, Gloss 

for 3147, 3148 

Photosrraphs, jS'egative, to de- 
velop 3144, 3146 

Photographs, IJ'egative, to 

make 3142 

Photographs, ]S'egative, to Var- 
nish 3145 

Photographs, Ifegative, Var- 
nish for 3153 

Photographs on Wood 3165 

Photographs, Paper for 3168 

Photographs, Papier Saxe for.. 3130 
Photographs, Preservation of. .3163 
Photographs, Tapioca Paper 

for 3157 

Photographs, to clean Glass 

for 3160,3185 

Photographs, Varnish for 2932, 2935 
3161. 

Photography 3128, &c. 

Photography, Albumenized Pa- 
per for 3132. 3178 

Photography, Artificial Ivory 

for 3180 

Photography, Catises of Failure 

in 3154 

Photography, CoUodion for 3149 

Photography, Ivory for 2010 

Photogi-aphv, Precautions in.. 3141 
Photography, Silver Bath for.. 3150 
Photography. Solutions for 3181, &c. 
Photography, to prepare Paper 

for 3131, &c., 3169, &0. 

Photography, Toning Bath for 3137, 

3184. 
Photography, Wax Paper for.. 31 79 
Photography without a Camera 3129 

3135. 
Physic's Bitter Wine of Iron.. 4704 

Phvsic's Issue Ointment 5284 

Piccalilli 1805 

Pickle, to. Meat 1602, &c. 

Pickles, Cautions in making.. .1766 

Pickles, Eeceipts for 1790, &c. 

Pickles, Spiced Vinegar for 1791 

Pickles, to color. Green 2636 

Picric Acid 2601 

Picture I>ames, Ornaments 

for 6234 

Picture Frames, to bronze 3827 

Picture Frames, to clean 2978 

Picture Frames, to gild... 3559, &c. 
Picture Varnishes.. -2907, 2911, &c. 

2944. 
Pictures, Decalcomine, to apply 6195 

Pictures, to clean 407 

Pierlot's Solution of Valerianate 

of Ammonia 5390 

Pierquin's Cough Syrup 5466 

Pierre Artificielle 2196 



PIE — PIN 



PIN — PLA 



PLA — POM 



593 



Pierre Divine 5296 

Piesse"s Eau de Cologne 977 

Piesse's Fumigating Pastils 1340 

Piesse's Method of cleaning 

Printed Paper 1973 

Pieste's Toothache Essence 5875 

Pig Iron 3258 

Pigments 2673, &c. 

Pigs, to banish Fleas from 1913 

Pile, to raise the, on Velvet, &c. 463 

Piles, Liniment for 5219 

PUes, Ointment for. .4986, &c., 5254 

Piles, Remedies for 5708, &c. 

Piles, Salve for 4989 

Pills 4897, &c. 

Pills. Aloes 4900 

Pills, Aloes and Assafoetida . . .4901 

Pills, Aloes and Mandrake 5191 

Pills, Aloes and Myrrh 4902 

PiUs, Alterative.... 4906, 5162, 5166 
Pills, AntibUious... 4907, 5174, 5175 

Pills. Anti-chiU 4908 

Pills, Aperient 4909 

PiUs, AssafcEtida 4903 

PiJls, Blancards, Imitation of .4930 

Pills, Blue 4919 

Pills, Butternut 5319 

Pills, Calomel 4920 

Pills, Cathartic . . 4917, 5303, 5316, &c. 

Pills, Chiravta 5192 

Pills, Coating for 5358, &c. 

Pills, Colocynth and Mandrake 5190 

Pills. Constipation 5454 

Pills, Copaiba 4918 

Pills, Copaiba and Pepsine 5457 

Pills. Cough 5598 

Pills, DandeUon 4929, 5700 

Pills, Dinner 5181 

Pills, Diuretic 4910, 5149 

Pills, Dyspepsia 5682 

Pills, Female 5382, 5719, &c. 

PiUs, Ferruginous 5474 

PiUs, Fever and Ague 5581 

PiUs, Galbanum, Compound ... 4921 

PiUs, Gonorrhoea 4911 

PiUs, Gout -..-5182, 5187, 5196, 5318 

PiUs, Gravel 5244 

PiUs, Health 5188, 5189 

puis, Indian Cathartic 5303 

puis, Indian Vegetable 5186 

puis. Intermittent Fever 5756, 6420 

puis, Iodide of Iron 4915, 4930 

PiUs, Iron, Compoimd 4916 

puis, Mandrake, Mercurial 4912 

PiUs, Mercurial 4919 

PiUs, Nervous 5573 

puis. Opium 4914 

PiUs, Pectoral 5253 

puis, Pepsine 5459 

puis, Pepsine and Iron 4928 

PiUs, Peristaltic Persuader 5173 

5320. 

puis, PodophyUin 4912 

PiUs, PodophyUin Aloes and 

Iron 4913 

puis. Quinine 4904, 5434 

puis. Rhubarb 4922, 4923 

PiUs Salutaria 5189 

PiUs Salutis 5188 

puis, SquiU 4924 

PiUs, Storax, Compound 4925 

PiUs, Sulphate of Quinine . 4904, &c. 

puis. Sulphite of Soda 4927 

puis. SiUphur 4926 

puis, Taraxacum 4929, 5700 

puis, to sU ver or gUd 4899 

puis, to sugar-coat 4898 

puis. Tonic 5125, 5166, 5216 

PiUs, Triplex 5184 

puis. Vermifuge 5648 

Pimento, Essence of 952 

Pimento, Essential OU of 1465 

Pimento, Fluid Extract of 4579 

Pimples, Remedy for 5490 

Pin Spots, to remove, from 

Steel 6304 

Pinchbeck 3348 

Pineapple, Essence of, .Aj^fi- 

cial 953, 1060 

Pineapple, OU of. Artificial 4293 

Pineapple Syrup 1405 

Pink and Green, to dye Mixed 

Fabrics 284 



Pink Fire 2092 

Pink Lights 2117 

Pink Pigments 2685 

Pink, to color Fats 1258 

Pink, to dye SUks 248 

Pink, to dye Woolens 201 

Pink-Root, Fluid Extract of 4577 

Pint. Scotch 6042 

i Pipes, Brandy, to plaster 095 

' Pipes, Gas, to bend 6316 

Pipes, Glass, to bend 3851 

Pipes, Rubber, to render. Gas- 
tight 4033 

Pipes, "Water, to protect Lead- 
en 6224 

Pipes, Water, to manage, in 

Winter 6223 

Piperine 4017 

Pipettes 3832 

Pipsisse-wa, Fluid Extract of. . 4577 
Piques, French Method of Wash- 
ing 490 

Piques to starch 500 

Pistachio Cream 1139 

Pitch, to remove from the Skin, 

Glass, &c 6421 

Pitch Stains, to remove 339 

Plain Syrup 1370 

Planks, to prevent, from Split- 
ting 1678 

Plants, Cleanliness needed for 1871 

Plants, Composts for 1822 

Plants, Cuttings of, to insert. . .1832 
Plants, Cuttings of, to select and 

manage 1831, 1843 

Plants, GreenFly on, to destroy 1851 

1854. 
Plants, Insects on, to destroy.. 1845 

1858. 
Plants, Maggots on, to destroy 1859 
Plants, Marsh, to propagate ... 1883 
Plants, Mildew on, to remove. .1850 

Plants, Roots of, to keep 188^ 

Plants, Specimens of, to pre- 
serve 6176, &c. 

Plants, to prevent Damping or 

FoggingofF in 1843 

Plants, to fumigate 1852 

Plants, to protect, against Red 

Spiders 1857 

Plant Sticks, to keep, from 

Rotting 1874 

Plasma, Schacht's 5009 

Plasters, Medicinal 5040, &c. 

Plaster, Adhesive Resin 5046 

Piaster, Anodyne 5048 

Plaster, Black 5285 

Plaster, BUstering 5053 

Plaster, Burgundy Pitch 5052 

Plaster, Cancer 5047 

Plaster, Cantharides 5053, &c. 

Plaster, CarboUo 5061 

Plaster, Com 5060 

Plaster, Cough 5050 

Plaster, Court 5058 

Plaster, Depilatory 1224 

Plaster, Deschamp's 5045 

Plaster, DevU's 5278 

Plaster, Diachylon 5043 

Plaster, Healing 5059 

Plaster, Irritating 5062 

Plaster, Lead 5043 

Plaster, Litharge 5043 

Plaster, Mustard 5057 

Plastei', Mustard,Homoeopathic505G 

Plaster, Nm-emberg 5383 

Plaster, Poor Man's 5276 

Plaster, Porous 5275 

Plaster, Resolvent 5051 

Plaster, Strengthening 5049 

Plaster, to prevent, from adher- 
ing to Paper 5042 

Plaster, to spread 5041 

Plaster. Universal 5277 

Plaster, Warm 5055 

Plaster, White Lead 5044 

Plaster Casts, Amalgam for Var- 
nishing 3548 

Plaster Ground for Chinese Ja- 
panning 3040 

Plaster Moulds, to make.. 3677, &c. 
Plaster Moulds, to prepare, for 
Electrotyping 3688, <fcc. 



Plaster of Paris 2020, 4352 

Plaster of Paris, Cement for. . 2177 
Plaster of Paris, to bronze 3792,3823 

Plaster of Paris, to cast 2031 

Plaster of Paris, to color 2029 

Plaster of Paris, to detect, in 

Paper 194f? 

Plaster of Paris, to dress, with 

Wax 2023 

Plaster of Paris, to engrave on 2021 
Plaster of Paris, to harden 2022 

2025, (fee. 

Plaster of Paris, to poUsh 2030 

Plaster of Paris, to print on . . . 1975 
Plaster of Paris, to render hard 

and durable 2024 

Plastered WaUs, to prepare, for 

Painting 2780 

Plastering Stuffs and Stucco.. 2197 

Plastic Material 2204 

Plate Glass 2349, &c. 

Plated- Ware, to clean. 512, 3227, &c. 

Plated- Ware, to test 3722 

Platina, see Platinum. 

Platina Mohr 3338 

Platinated Asbestos 333.5 

Plating, Electro 3696, &c. 

Plating Powder, Gold 3591 

Plating without a Battery 3744 

Platinum 3333 

Platinum, AUoys of 3423, 3440 

Platinum, Amrnonio-chloride of 4086 

Platinum, Black 3338 

Platinum, Chlorides of 3220, 4084 

Platinum Lustre for Pottery .. 2417 

Platinum, Nitro-muriate of 3220 

Platinum, Spongy 3336 

Platinum, Tests for, in Solu- 
tions 4087 

Platinum, to coat Copper with. 3658 
Platinum, to coat Glass with. .3656 
Platinum, to coat SU ver with.. 3670 
Piatiuum, to electroplate with . 3760- 

Platinum, to purify 3334r 

Plum Essence, Artificial 1048" 

Plum Colored Dye for Worsted, 

SUk, or Cotton 320' 

Plumbago 4164 

Plumbago Bronzing 3775' 

Plumbers' Cement 2226. 

Plumbers' Solder 3505- 

Plumb Spirit, for Dyeing... Ill, 112 

Plums, to can 1636 

Plums, to keep, fresh 1638, 1642 

Plunkefs Cancer Ointment 5386 

Plush, to raise the PUe on 463 

Pneumatic Trough 4031 

Pocket-Handkerchiefs, Silk, to 

wash 477 

PodophyUin PUls 4912 

PodophyUin Aloes and Iron 

PiUs 4913: 

PodophyUin, Tincture of 4507 

Podophyllum, Fluid Extract of . 4575. 

Poeonia Roots, to preserve 1888- 

Pointing Brickwork 2792 

Point Lace, to wash 478 

Poison, Fly 1912 

Poison in Bitter Almonds, to 

neutralize 1034 

Poison Ivy, Remedies for. 5930, &c. 

Poison Oak Leaves. Oil of 4752 

Poison Oak, Remedies for. 5930, &c. 

Poison, Rat 1897 

Poisoning, Cases of. Treatment 

for 5896 

Poisons, Antidotes for 5895, &c_ 

PoUsh for Furniture 2987, &c-. 

PoUsh for Harness 3075' 

Polish for Patent Leather 3072 

PoUsh for Turners' Work 3009> 

Polish, to make 2996, &c. 

PoUsh Wbite 2760 

Polishers' Putty 4122 

Polishing 2979, &c. 

PoUshing, French... 2981, 2993, &c. 

Polishing Paste 2988 

PoUshing Powder for Gold 3204 

Polishing Powder for SpeciUa. 6356 
Polishing Varnished Surfaces. 2976 

2980, &c. 

PoUack's Cement 2211 

Pomade a la Rose 1263 



59-4 



POM — POT 



POT — POW 



POW — PRU 



Pomade a la Vanille 1262 

Pomade a la Violette 1263 

Pomade au Jasmin 1263 

Pomade aux Fleurs d'Orange. .1262 
1263. 

Pomade, Castor Oil 1276 

Pomade, Cacao, for the Lips and 

Hands 1136 

Pomade, Common 1265, 1266 

Pomade Centre 1' Alopecie 1284 

Pomade, Creosote 4953 

Pomade, Crystallized 1274 

Pomade de Beaute 1164 

Pomade de Millefleur 1268 

Pomade de Ninon del'Enclos .1163 

3'omade de Venus 1164 

Pomade d'Orient 1272 

Pomade de Toscanie 4951 

Pomade des Indes 1272 

Pomade Divine 1275 

Pomade for the Moustache 1287 

Pomade, Palma Christi 1276 

Pomade, Peruvian 1269 

Pomade, Plain 1265 

Pomade Rosat for the Lips 1135 

Pomade, E.ose 1267 

Pomade, Tonquin 1246 

Pomade, Transparent 1273 

Pomade, Vanilla 1247, 1271 

Pomades 1252, &c. 

Pomades, Essences for Scenting 1261 
Pomades for Incipient Bald- 
ness 1279, &c. 

Pomades for strengthening the 

Hair 1279, &c. 

Pomades, Mixed or Compound 1264 
Pomades, Piesse's Method of 

Scenting 1262 

Pomades, to color Eat for 1257 

Pomades, to finish off 1256 

Pomades, to perfume, by Enlleu- 

rage 1263 

Pomades, to perfume, by Infu- 
sion 1262 

Pomades, to perfume Eat for. .1255 
Pomades, to purify Eat for 1253, &c. 
Pomatmn, see Poaiade. 
Pomegranate Hoot, Eluid Ex- 
tract of 45''7 

Poncine Soap 565 

Poor Man's Plaster 5276 

Poppy OU, Test for 1498 

Poppy Oil, to detect, in Castor 

on 1499 

Porcelain, Cements for. ..2153, &c, 
2247. 

Porcelain, Glazes for 2404, &c, 

Porcelain, to bronze 3827 

Porcelain, to gild on 3575 

Percelain, to remove the Gild- 
ing from 3595 

Porcelain, to silver 3631 

Pork, Weight of, in Live Hogs. 6129 

Pork, to dry-salt 1602 

Pork, to pickle, 1602, 1607, &c. 

Pork, to smoke 1600 

Porous Cloth, to waterproof... 1553 

Porous Plaster 5275 

Porphyrization 25, 31 

Port Eire 2102 

Port Wine, Imitation 728 

Port Wine Stains, to remove. . 369 

Port Wine, to fine 746 

Portable Glue 23C8 

Portable Lemonade 915 

Porter, Bitter Balls for 870 

Porter, to brew 856 

Porter, to fine 747 

Porter, to make Home-brewed, 865 

Portland Cement 2195 

Portuguese Weights and Mea- 
sures 6089, &c. 

Postage Stamp Mucilage 2300 

Potash 3974 

Potash, Caustic 101, 4192 

Potash, Caustic, to test 584 

Potash, Caustic l,jes, Table of .629 

Potash, Commercial 4181 

Potash Lye, Home-made 550 

Potash Lye, Soapmakers' 519 

Potash Poisons, Antidotes for. 5901 

Potash, Solution of 4784 

Potassa 3974 



Potassa, Acetate of 4180 

Potassa and Soda, Tartrate of 4213 

Potassa, Anhydrous 3975 

Potassa, Bichromate of, Substi- 
tute for 4188 

Potassa, Carbonates of 4181 

Potassa, Caustic 3976 

Potassa, Chlorates of 4184, 4185 

Potassa, Chromates of ...4186, 4187 

Potassa, Citrate of 4808 

Potassa, Cosmetic Solution of .. 4856 

Potassa Gargle 5064 

Potassa, Hydrate of 3976, 4192 

Potassa, Nitrate of 4194 

Potassa, Nitrite of 4189 

Potassa, Permanganate of 3941,4190 

Potassa, Prussiate of 4200 

Potassa, Silicate of 2816, &c. 

Potassa, Tartrates of 4196, &c. 

Potassa, Tests for 3977 

Potassa with Lime 4193 

Potassio-Tartrate of Antimony 4129 
Potassio-Tartrate of Antimony 

Ointment 4995 

Potassio-Tartrate of Soda 4213 

Potassium, Bromide of 4198 

Potassium, Chloride of 4199 

Potassium, Cyanide of 4202 

Potassium, Eerridcyanide of. . .4200 
Potassium, Een-ocvanide of. ..4201 

Potassium, Eluid Alloy of 3455 

Potassium, Iodide of 4203 

Potassium, Sulphocyanide of. .4205 

Potassium, Sulphuret of 4204 

Potato Poultice 5029 

Potatoes, Erozen, Remedy for.. 6204 

Potatoes, to diy 1889 

Potatoes, to preserve 1888 

Pottery, Metallic Lustres for.. 2414 

Pottery, to silver 3630 

Pouchapat, Essence of 966 

Poudi'e a la Vanille Brune 1105 

Poudre a lOEillet Composee. . .1106 

Poudre Blonde for the Hair 1104 

Poudre dlris 1101 

Poudre Noir for the Hair 1103 

Poudre pour les Dents 1288, &c. 

Poultices 5018, &c. 

Poultice, Alum 5033 

Poultice, Bread 5019 

Poultice, Carrot 5024 

Poultice, Charcoal 5026 

Poultice, Chlorinated 5038 

Poultice for Pesters 5032 

Poultice for Gout 5035 

Poultice for Sprains, &c 5025 

Poultice, Goulard's 5030 

Poultice, Hemlock 5034 

Poultice, Indian Turnip 5028 

Poultice, Linseed 5023 

Poultice, Lobelia 5031 

Poultice, Mustard 5021 

Poultice, Potato 5029 

Poultice, Slippery-elm 5020 

Poultice, Soap 5036 

Poultice, Vinegar 5037 

Poultice, Yeast 5027 

Poultry, Dead, to keep, fresh.. 1619 

Poultry, to clear, of lace 1922 

Pounce 1954 

Pounds, Ounces, &c.. Decimal 

Equivaleats of 5939, &c. 

Pouret, Gay-Lussac's 82 

Powder, Anodyne 5131 

Powder, Baking 1817 

Powder, Castillon's 5475 

Powder, Dover's 5176 

Powder, Dover's, Camphorated 5423 

Powder, Egg 1817 

Powder, Emetic 5169 

Powder, Eerrugiuous 5464 

Powder, EertUizing 1829 

Powder, Eever 5145 

Powder for Boots 6319 

Powder for boiling Plated-ware3228 
Powder for cleaning Plated- 

ware 3229 

Powder for Gold-plating 3591 

Powder for Silver-plating 3600 

Powder, Gleet 5314 

Powder, Gregory's 5211, 5414 

Powder, Infant 5450 

Powder, Ink 2474 



I Powder, Milk 5471 

Powder, Nerve 5571 

Powder, Polishing, for Gold. ..3204 
Powder, Polishing, for Silver.. 3223 
Powder, Polishing, for Specula 6356 

Powder, Rheumatic 5531 

Powder, Thompson's Composi- 
tion 5178 

Powder Wart or Corn 5825 

Powders, Anti-incrustation, for 

Boilers 2334 

Powders, Blasting 2144 

Powders for Eiltering 3839 

Powders, Ginger-beer 902 

Powders, Lemonade 908, 916 

Powders, Perfumed, for the Skin, 
1099, &c. 

Powders, Spruce-beer 903 

Powders for Surface-bronzing 3794 

Powders for Welding 3523, &c. 

Powders, EtUminating 2136 

Powell's Cough Balsam 5442 

Pradiers Razor-strop Paste . . .6248 

Prairie Itch, Remedy for 5479 

Precious Stones, see Gems. 

Precipitated Chalk 1291 

Precipitates, Moist, to find the 

Dry-weight of 3852 

Precipitates, to filter 3837 

Precipitation 24 

Pregnancy, Remedy for After- 
pains 5722 

Pregnancy, to relieve Vomiting 

in 5720 

Preparations, Acid, of Tin 107, &c. 
Preparations, Anatomical, An- 
tiseptics for 1651, &c. 

Preparations, Medicinal 33 

Prepared Bran for the Hair 1102 

Prepared Chalk 1292 

Prepared Charcoal 1294 

Prepared Ox-gall 373 

Prepared Paper, see Paper. 
Prescriptions, Signs used in... 5964 

Preservatives 1598 

Preservative against Infection 1708 
Preservative Eluids for Micro- 
scopic Objects ]£62 

Preserving, see article to be 

preserved. 
Preventives, see object to be 
prevented. 

Preventive Lotions 4825 

Pricked Wine, to remedy 752 

Prickly-Ash Bark, Eluid Ex- 
tract of 4579 

Prickly- A sh Berries, Tincture of4536 
Priming for House-pain ting... 2746 

Prince Rupert's Drops 2373 

Prince's Metal 3348 

Printers Inks 2543, &c. 

Printer's Ink, Varnish for 2897 

Printer's Ink Rollers, Compo- 
sition for 2541 

Printer's Ink Rollers, to clean. 2542 
6337. 

Printing Ink, to remove 404 

Prints, Colored, to look like Oil 

Paintings 2964 

Prints, to gUd the Background 

of 2945 

Prints, to mount 6407 

Prints, Varnish for 2938, 2944 

Procter's classified Eluid Ex- 
tracts 4573, (fee. 

Procter's Extract of Arnica . .4751 
Procter's Fluid Extract of Hops 4594 
Procter's Eluid Extract of Li- 
quorice 4595 

Procter's Fluid Extract of Wild- 

chen-y Bark 4.589 

Procter's Rennet Wine 4713 

Procter's Syrup of Hypophos- 

phites 4641 

Procter's Syrup of Tolu 4677 

Procter's Vermifuge 5428 

Proof Spirit 1436 

Proportions of the Human Body6148 
I Protochlorides, see Chlorides. 
Protoxides, see Oxides. 

Provins Water 4470 

Prune Flavoring for Liquors.. 664 
Prussian Blue, 2674, &c., 4167, 4160 



PKL' — QUI 



QUI — RKD 



RED — RHU 



595 



Prussian Blue, Soluble 261 5 

Prussian Blue, to test 2479 

Prussian Mone}' 6080 

Prussian Weights and Measures 
60dl, &c.. 

Prussiates 3956 

Prussiate of Copper 4098 

Prussiate of Potash 4200, 4201 

Prussic Acid 3947 

Prussic Acid, Action of,onIron2676 

Prussic Acid, Anhydrous 3948 

Prussic Acid, Antidotes for.. .5911 

Prussic Acid, Dilute 3949 

Prussic Acid Lotion 4833 

Prussic Acid, Tests for.. 3950, 3951 

Psyche, Cremc de 1137 

Puce Dye for Cottons 169, 175 

Puce Dye for Woolens 212 

Puffer's Root Beer 890 

PuUna Water, A erated 4446 

PuUna Water. Salts for making 4447 

Pulmonary Balsam 5601 

Pulmonary Syrup 5600 

Pidp, to find the Dry-weightof.3852 

Pulverization 25 

Pumice-Stone, to prepare, for 

use 3014 

Pumpkin Seeds, Emulsion of. .5432 

Punch, Brandy 919 

Punch, Claret 921 

Punch, Milk 918 

Punch, Regent 928 

Punch, Rum 710 

Punch Syrup for Cordials 1383 

Punch, AV"hiskey 920 

Punch, Wine 711, &c. 

Purcher's Iron-coating for Zinc 3654 
Purifying, see article to be 

purified. 
Purple Aniline Dyes 2607, &c.,2611 

Purple Dye for Cottons 171, &c. 

Purple Dye for Ivory 1988 

Purple Dye for Wood 2834 

Purple Dye for Woolens. . .218, 229 

Purple Enamels 2386 

Purple Fire 2077, 2090 

Purple Ink 2494 

Pivple Marble for Bookbinders 3122 

Purple Marking Ink 2512 

Purple of Cassius 2720, &c. 

Purple Stain for Glass 2361 

Purple Stain for Wood 2861 

Purpurate of Ammonia 4224 

Puscher's Solution for coloring 

Metals 3188 

Putrefaction 16 

Putrid Fermentation 1*6 

Putty, Hard or Old, to remove. 2785 

2786. 
Puttv, Hard, to soften... 2784, 2790 

Putty, Painters' 2242 

Putty, Quick Hardening 2243 

Putty, to remove, from Glass.. 2783 
Putty, to soften, in Window 

Frames 2784 

Putty, Wax, for leaky Casks.. 696 
Puttying in House-painting . . .2748 
Pyrethrura. Fluid Extract of.. 4579 
Pyrmont Water, Aerated4448, 4473 

Pyrogallic A cid 390.4, 3910 

Pyrogallic Hair-dye 1200 

Pyrolusite 4255 

Pyrophorus 4340, &c. 

Pyrophosphate of Iron 4737 

Pyrotechny 2048, &c. 

■Quartz, to pulverize 25 

■Quassia, Tincture of 4562 

<3ueeu's Root, Fluid Extract of 4587 

Queen's Root, Syrup of 4672 

<5ueen's Root, Syrup of, Com- 
pound 4673 

Queen's Root, Tincture of 4508 

Quesneville's Ferruginous Pow- 
der 5464 

Quick Lime 3994 

Quick Match 2060 

Quicksilver, see Mercury. 

Quills, to clarify 6314 

Quin Sauce 1 757 

Quince, Artificial Essence of. .4296 
<5uinee. Essential Oil of, Arti- 
fioial 1471 



Qni-nce Mucilage 1154 

Quinces, to can ]634 

Quinces, to dry 1640 

Quinces, to keep fresh 1638, 1641 

Quinicine 4004 

Quinidine 4004, 4028 

Quinine or Quinia 4003 

Quinine Ague Mixture. . .5582, 5.584 

Quinine, Amorphous 4004 

Quinine, Caution in the use of. .5583 

Quinine Dentifrice 1304 

Quinine, Essence of 4624 

Quinine, Hydriodate of 4264 

Quinine, Percentage of in Bark 4027 

Quinine Pills 4904, 4905, 5434 

Quinine, Sid ph ate of 4265 

Quinine, Test for Quinidine in 4029 
Quinine, Test for Strength of. .4026 

Quinine, to dissolve 5578 

Quinine Tooth Paste 1319 

Quinine Wine 5199 

Quinoidine 4004 

Quinometiy 4025 

Quinsy, Symptoms of f630 

Quinsy, Treatment of 5631 

Rabbit Skins, to cure 649 

Radius' Camphor Chilblain Oint- 
ment 5403 

Radway's Ready Relief 5335 

Radway's Renovating Resol- 
vent .5336 

Hags, Woolen, to bleach 1726 

Raisin Flavoring for Liquors.. 665 

Raisin Wine 729 

Raknsiri, Balm of 5115 

Rape Oil, Test for 1497, 1499 

Rape Oil, to detect, in Olive 0111498 

Raspberries, to can 1636 

Raspberry, Currant and Cherry 

Wine 728 

Raspbeny Essence, Artificial. .1057 

Raspberry Shrub 905 

Raspberry Syrup for Cordials. .1372 
Raspberry Syrup for Soda Wa- 
ter 1403 

Raspberry Syrup, Imitation. ..1373 
1403. 

Raspberry Yinegar 1779, &c. 

Raspberry Wine 728 

Ratafia 790 

Rattlesnake Poison, Antidote 

for 5924, &c. 

Rats, Bait for 1895 

Rats, Phosphorus Paste for 1899 

Rats, Poison for 1897 

Rats, to catch 1893 

Rats, to drive away 1898, 1923 

Rats, Trap for 1894 

Razors, to hone 6245 

Razors, to sharpen 6250 

Razors, to strop 6249 

Razor-Strop, the best 6246 

Razor-Strops, Paste for 6247 

Reade's Blue Writing Fluid . . .2488 
Reagents, to restore Colors de- 
stroyed by 362 

Reaumur, Fahrenheit and Cen- 
tigrade compared 92 

Reaumur, to reduce Degrees of 

Centigrade to 91 

Reaumur, to reduce Degrees of 

Fahrenheit to 89 

Reaumur, to reduce Degrees of, 

to Centigrade 90 

Reaumur, to reduce Degrees of, 

to Fahrenheit 88 

Reaumur's Thermometer 85 

Rebling's Method of Purifying 

Honey 1567 

Reboulet's Antiseptic Solution . 1 658 

Rectification 3848 

Rectified Spirits 1435 

Rectifying Tub, to pack a 938 

Red Ants, to exterminate 1910 

Red Bark, Tincture of 5544 

Red Bengal Lights 2072 

Red Bronzing Powder 3794 

Red Cabbage, Pickled 1800 

Red Cement 2190, 2227 

Red Copying Paper 1926, 1948 

Red Currant Wioe 728 

Red Drops 5376, 5411 



Red Dye, Aniline 332, 2575, &c., 2612 

Red Dye for Cottons 153 

Red Dye for Feathers 328* 

Red Dye for Ivory 1985, &c. 

Red Dye for Silks 247, 250 

Red Dye for Wood 2831, &c. 

Red Dye for Woolens 197 

Red Enamels 2388 

Red Fire 2087, 2109 

Red Foil for Imitation Gems. .2453 

Red Frontignac Wine 6419 

Red Hair-dye 1204, &c. 

Red Hair-o'il 1233 

Red Ink 2498, &c. 

Red Lacquer 3060, &c. 

Red-Lead, Antidotes for 5908 

Red-Lead Cement 2169 

Red Lights 2116 

Red Lights for Indoors 2123 

Red Lip-salve 1170 

Red Liquor for Dyeing 100 

Red Marble for Book-covers. . .3112 

Red Pigments 2704, 2706, 2718 

Red Precipitate 4141 

Red Salve 4972 

Red Sealing-wax 2313 

Red Spider, to protect Plants 

from 1857 

Red Spirits for Dyeing 108 

Red Sprinkle for Books 3126 

Red Stain for Furniture 2856 

Red Stain for Glass 2361 

Red Stain for Marble 2043 

Red, Turkey, French Process for 

Dyeing 189 

Red Wash for Bricks 2809 

Red Wash, Mercurial 4848 

Red Wines, to fine 745 

Reduction 26 

Redwood's Indelible Marking 

Ink 2508 

Redwood's Nervine Balsam . . .5340 

Redwood's Red Ink 2503 

Reece's Pills 5192 

Reef Knot, to tie a 6262 

Regent Punch 928 

Regnault's Pectoral Paste 5269 

Remedies, see complaint to be 

remedied. 
Remoussin's Antisyphilitic Gar- 
gle 5415 

Rennet 1595 

Rennet, Essence of 1596 

Rennet Wine 4713 

Rensch's Arsenic Test 3937 

Reps, Worsted, to clean 451 

Resin Cerate, Compound 5003 

Resin Ointment 4964 

Resin Plaster, Adhesive 5046 

Resin Soap 541 

Resin Spots, to remove, from 

Silk 338 

Resin, Sugar 4313 

Resin, to harden Tallow with. . 641 

Resolvent Plaster 5051 

Restoration after apparent 

Drowningv. .5893 

Retorts for Distillation 13 

Retorts, Gas, Cement for 2234 

Retorts, Lutes for 2265, &c. 

Reveil's Solution of Permangan- 
ate of Potassa 4797 

Rhatany, Tincture of 4563 

Rheumatic Alterative 5.535 

Rheumatic Decoction 5540 

Rheumatic Liniment 4884, &c. 

Rheumatism, Causes of 5525 

Rheumatism, Chronic, to cure. 5529 

5537. 
Rheumatism, Inflammatory, to 

cure 5533, &c. 

Rheumatism, Nature of 5524 

Rheumatism, Remedies for 5.526, &c. 
Rheumatism, Syphilitic, to cure 5537 

Rheumatism, Wine for 5408 

Rhodium Wood, Essential Oil of 1465 
Rhubarb and Senna, Syrup of. .4639 
Rhubarb and Senna, Tincture of 4523 
Rhubarb, Fluid Extract of. Al- 
kaline 4586, 4591 

Rhubarb Pills 4922 

Rhubarb PiUs, Compound 4923 

Rhubarb, Syrup of 4638, 4640 



596 



RHU — ROS 



KOS — SAL 



SAL — SCE 



Ehubarb, Syrup of, Alkaline. . .4675 
Ehubarb, Syrup of, German .. .4674 

Rhubarb, Tincture of 4522 

Ehubarb, Tiucture of, Alkaline 5356 
Ehubarb, Tincture of. Aqueous 4546 
Ehubarb, Tincture of. Sweet ..4545 

Ehubarb Wine 734 

Ehubarb-Eoot, to dry 1889 

Eibbons, to clean 437 

Eibbons, to preserve 6202 

Eibbons, to restore creased 464 

Eice Marble for Leather Book- 
covers 3115 \ 

Ricord & Pavrot's Capsules of 

Copaiba 5416 

Eicord & Favrot's Capsules of 

Copaiba and Tar 5417 

Eicord's Aromatic "Wine 5348 

Eicord's Copaiba and Pepsine 

Pills 5457 

Eicord's Gonorrhoea Injection. 5439 
5738. 

Eiegler's Fever Tincture 5371 

Eiga Balsam 5094 

Eing, to remove a tight, from 

the Finger 6213 

Eingworm, Eemedies for. 5485, 5488 

Einmann's Green Pigment 2714 

Eipe Gooseberry Wine 735 

Eoaches, to drive away 1923 

Eoaches, to exterminate 1901 

Eoche Alum 4256 

EocheUe Salt 4213 

Eoche's Diptheria Eemedy 5639 

Eoche's Embrocation 5257 

Eocket Cases, to make 2050 

Eockets, Chinese Fire for 2055 

Eockets, Composition for charg- 
ing 2054 

Eockets, Display 2051 

Eockets, Garniture for 2055, &c. 

Eockets, Plain 2050 

Eockets, to charge 2052 

Eocks, &c.. Weight of 6134 

Eoman Candles 2062 

Eoman Candles, Composition 

for charging 2063 

Eoman Candles, Stars for. 2058,2064 

Eoman Cement 2203 

Eoman Money, Ancient 6057 

Eoman Money, Modem 6079 

Eoman Vitriol 120 

[Roman Weights and Measures 6057 
6079. 

Eondeletia, Bouquet de 1066 

Eondeletia, Essence or Extrait 

de 946,1062 

Eoofs, Leaky, Cement for 2224 

Eooms, Cement for Coating . . .2171 

Eoot Beer 889, &c. 

Eoots, Bulbous, to preserve 1888 

Eoots, to extract Essential Oil 

from 46 

Eoots, to dry 1889 

Eoots, Tuberous, to preserve... 1888 

Eope, Weight of 6137 

Eopiness in Beer, to remedy. . . 881 
Eopiness in Wine, to remedy. . 749 

Eosaniline 2553 

Eosat, Pomade, for the Lips. . .1135 

Eose Bandoline 1195 

Eose, Esprit de 1001 

Eose Glycerine Cream 1130 

Eose Lip-salve 117] 

Eose, Oil of 1227, 1229, 4752 

Eose, Oil of, Test for 1484 

Eose, Pastilles a la 1343 

Eose Pomade 1262, 1267 

Eose Soap 5G3 

Eose Water 1008 

Eose Water, to distill 1071,1073, 1079 
Eose-Bushes, Composition for 

Wounds on 1877 

Eose-Bushes, Insects on, to re- 
move 1846 

Eose-Bushes, Maggots on, to 

destroy 1859 

Eose-Bushes, MUdew on, to re- 
move 1 850 

Eose-Bushes, Soot-water for... 1841 
Eose-Colored Dye for Veneers. 2840 
Eose-Colored Dye for Wood. . .2833 
Eose-Colored Enamels 2391 



Eose-Colored Fire . 2093 

Eose-Pink Pigment 2685 

Eoses, Alcoholate of 1017 

Eoses, Attar or Otto of 975 

Eoses, Attar of. Test for 1484 

Eoses, Bloom of 1113 

Eoses, Essence of 944, &c. 

Eoses, Extract of 1035 

Eoses, Honey of 4694 

Eoses, Infusion of 4739 

Eoses, Milk of 1140 

Eosemary, Essential Oil of 1465 

Eosewood, to imitate 2851 

Eother's Sonp Liniment 6404 

Eouges for the Skin 1099, &c. 

Eouget's Method of fixing Draw- 
ings 1959 

Eound Soap, Paris 596 

Eousseau's Laudanum 5468 

Eoyal-Blue Dye for Cottons 133 

Eoyal-Blue Dye for Silks 257 

Eoyale, Eau 994 

EoVale, Essence 960 

Eubefacients 5081, &c. 

Eubefacieut Solution of Iodine. 5422 

Eubus, Fluid Extract of 4577 

Euby-Colored Dyes for Silks ... 253 

Euby Foil 2458 

Euby, Imitation 2355, 2432, 2445 

Eue, Oil of 4752 

Eue, Oil of. Test for 1486 

Eugs, Hearth, to clean 445 

Eugs, Sheepskin, to clean 420 

Euhmkorf s Zinc Amalgama- 
ting Fluid 3555 

Eules for the Treatment of Al- 
cohol 1449, &c. 

Eum 1435 

Eum, Imitation 699, 702 

Eum, New England, Distillation 

of 931, &c. 

Eum, New England, Mash for 932 
Eum, New England, Yeast for. 932 

Eum Punch 710 

Eum, Test for 4407 

Runge's Black Ink 2483 

Eupture, Treatment of 5770 

Eussia Leather 644 

Eussia Salre 5343 

Eussian Liquid Glue 2286 

Eussian Money 6071 

Russian Eemedy for Chilblains 5842 
Eussian Weights and Measures 6072 

Rust Joint Cement 2167 

Rust, to protect Iron against. . .3267 
Rust, to protect Steel against .3306 
Rust, to remove,from Flat-irons 6228 

Rust, to remove, from Iron 3266 

Rust, to remove, from Steel 3308 

Rust-Spots, to remove, from 

Marble 514 

Ryan's Gleet-powder* 5314 

Rye Whiskey, Distillation of 931, &c. 

Rye Whiskey, Imitation 688 

Rypophagon Soap 603 

Saccharine Carbonate of Iron. .4163 

Saccharine Fermentation 16 

Saccharometer, Baume's64,&c.,6155 
Saccharometer used by Brewers 858 
Sachets, VaniUa Powder for. . .1105 
Sachets, Violet Powder for. ...1106 

Safflower-Lake Pigment 2683 

Safranine Aniline Dye 2578 

Sage-Green Dye for Cottons. . . 165 

Sage Water, to distill 1071, 1073 

St. John Long's Liniment 5281 

St. John's Bread Flavoring for 

Liquors 666 

St. John's Wort, Oil of 4752 

St. John's Wort, Tincture of. . .4501 

Sal Ammoniac 4222 

Sal Enixum 3470 

Sal Soda 4208 

Sal Volatile, Spirit of 1096 

Salicine 4021 

Salmon-Color Dye for Silks. 270, 313 

Salt of Lemons, Essential 378 

Salt of Tartar 4181 

Salt of Wormwood 4181 

Salt Rheum Ointment 4962 

Salt Eh eum, Eemedy for 5482 

Salt, Table 4215 



Salt, to, Meat 1602, &c. 

Salt Water, to wash in 484 

Saltpetre 4194 

Saltpetre, to purify 4195 

Salts, Chemical 3853 

Salts, Smelling 1089, &c., 

Salves or Cerates 4931, &c'. 

Salve, Black, or Healing 4971 

Salve, Carbolic 4993, 4996 

Salve, Egyptiacum 5C04 

Salve, Family 4935 

Salve for all Wounds 4936 

Salve for Sore Breasts 4990 

Salve for the Lips 1170, &c. 

Salve, German Black 5007 

Salve Goulard's 5476 

Salve, Green Mountain 5345 

Salve, Green Stick 4970, 4973 

Salve, Healing 5285 

Salve, Hemlock 4969 

Salve, Neutral 5378 

Salve, Eed 4972 

Salve, Eesin, Compound 5003 

Salve, Eussia 5343 

Salve, Saturnine 4968 

Salve, Savine 4997 

Salve, Simple 4932 

Salve, Spermaceti 4933 

Salve, Turner's 5289 

Salve, Zinc 5379 

Sampson's New York Pills 5300 

Sand Bath 4 

Sand-Soap Balls 575 

Sandal Wood, Essential Oil of. 1465 

Sandarach French Polish 2999 

Santa Cruz Eum, Imitation ... 699 

Santa Cruz Sour 926 

Santonate of Soda 4649 

Santonate of Soda, Syrup of . . .4650 

Santonin Lozenges 5463 

Santonin, Solution of 4794 

Santonin, Syrup of 4668 

Sap Green 2686 

Saponine 6332 

Sapphire, Imitation 2358, 2433 

Sarcine 4014 

Sarcosine 4013 

Sarels Cement 2171 

SarsaparUla, Fluid Extract of. . 4577 

Sarsaparilla Syrup 1391 

SarsapariUa, Syrup of. Compound 

4655. 
Sarsaparilla Syrup for Soda- 
water 1389, &c. 

Sash Windows, tokeepOijen ..6208 

Sassafras, Essential Oil of 1465 

Sassafras Flavoring for Liquoi-s 670 
Sassafras Water, to distill 1071,1073 
Satin Shoes, White, to clean... 455 

Satins, to clean 460 

Saturated Solution 29 

Saturated Solutions, Boiling 

Heat of 7 

Saturation 27, 3846 

Saturnine Cerate 4968 

Sauces, General Eeceipts for.. 1753 
Saunders' Petroleum Embroca- 
tion 5402 

Savine Cerate 4997 

Savine, Essential Oil of 1465 

Savine Ointment 4938 

Savon au Bouquet 564 

Savory Spices, Essence of 1764 

Savory Spices, Tincture of 1765 

Saws, Broken, to solder 3512 

Saws, to sharpen and set 6254 

Scalded Mouth, Eemedy for... 5519 

Scalds, Liniment for 5472 

Scalds, Eemedies for 5517, &c. 

Scalp, Wash to cleanse the 1187 

Scarlatina, Eemedy for 5754 

Scarlatina, Treatment of. .5751, &c. 

Scarlet Aniline Dye 2582, &c. 

Scarlet Dve for Cottons 155 

Scarlet Dye for Feathers 330 

Scarlet Dye for Silks 249, 252 

Scarlet Dye for Woolens 196,199,322 
Scarlet Fever, Preventive 

against 5753 

Scarlet Fever, Eemedy for 5755 

Scarlet Fever, Treatment of . .5750 

Scarlet Spirit for Dveing 199 

Scented Oils '. 1226 



SCE — SEV 



SHA — SIL 



SIL — SIL 



597 



Scents for Candles 13;")! 

Scents for Cigars 1350 

Scents for Pomades 1261 

Scents forriniiif 1352 

Scents for Tobacco 1350 

Scents, Mixed 1243 

Schachts' Glycerinated Plasmas 

or Ointments 5010, <fec. 

Schachts' Glycerine of Starch 

or Plasma 5009 

Schecles Green 2711 

Schiedam Gin, Imitation 697 

Schiff s Aniline YeUow 2580 

Schiflfs Table of Soda Solutions 628 

Schist 4256 

Schlippe's Salt 4133 

Schusters Alkalimeter or Acid- 

imeter 82 

Schwarz's Liniment for Burns. 5472 

Scorched Linen, to restore 504 

Scotch Whiskey Imitation 691 

Scott's Pills, Anderson's 5180 

Scourini? Balls 349, 374 

Scovill's Syrup of Sarsaparilla.4656 

Scrapers, Steel, to Make 6259 

Scratch Brush for cleaning Met- 
als 3381, 3706 

Scratches, Treatment of 5498 

Scriptural Money 6069 

Scriptural Weights and Mea- 
sures 6065, <fec. 

Scrofula, Remedy for 5773 

Scullcap, Fluid Extract of 4601 

Scupperuong Champagne 721 

Scuryy-Grass Water, to distill. 1071 
1073. 

Sea-Salt, Imitation 4460 

Sea-Siilt, Pure 3209 

Sea-Sickness, Remedy for 5339 

Sea-Sickness, to preyent.5235, 5779 

Sea-Sickness, to relieve 5778 

Sea-Water 4459 

Sea- Water, Artificial, for Aqua- 
ria 6198 

Sealing Cements for Bottles. . .2238 

Sealing- Wax 2312, Sec. 

Sealing- Wax, Black 2316 

Sealing- Wax, Blue 2322 

Sealing- Wax, Brown 2321 

Sealing- Wax for Bottle-corks. 929 

Sealin£r-Wax for Diplomas 2327 

Sealing- Wax, Gold-colored . . . .2318 

Sealing- Wax, Green 2324 

Sealing- Wax, Marbled 2319 

Sealing- Wax, Perfumed 2325 

Sealing- Wax, Proof Impres- 
sions in 2328 

Sealing- Wax, Red 2313, 2315 

Sealing- Wax, to improve the 

Appearance of 2326 

Sealing- Wax, to polish 2314 

Sealing- Wax Yamish 3044 

Sealing- Wax, Yellow 2320 

Searing's Photography on Wood 

3165. 
Secret Writing. Inks for.. 25^3, <fcc. 
Seeds. Cucumber and Melon, to 

clean 1864 

Seeds, Cucumber and Melon, to 

prove 1863 

Seeds, to prepare for Exporta- 
tion 1884 

Seidlitz Powders 4450 

Seidlitz Water 4449 

Seidschutz Water, Aerated 4452 

Seisnette's Salt 4213 

Self-Feeding Filter 17, 3840 

Selters or Seltzer Water, Aera- 
ted 4453 

Seneka, Fluid Extract of. 4576, 45D8 

Seneka, Syrup of 4658 

Senna and JaJap, Fluid Extract 

of 4603 

Senna Powder 5232 

Senna, to disguise the Taste of. 5892 

Separating Funnels 3831 

Serpentaria. Fluid Extract of. .4576 

Serpentaria, Tincture of 4525 

Sesquicarbonates, see Cakbo.vates. 
Sesquichlorides, see Chlorides. 
Seaqui muriates, see Muriates. 
Sesquioxides, see Oxides. 
Seven Years' Itch, Remedy for 5479 



! Shaker Soft Soap 609 I Silver Alloy, to recover, from 

Shallot Vinegar 1775 ; Amalgam 3554 

Shampoo Mixtures 1188, «fcc. j Silver. Alloys of 3404, <tc. 

Shaving 6244 /» Silver Amalgam 3535 

Shaving Cream 602, &c.\ Silver and Potassium, Cyanide 



Shaving, Lotion after 1158, 4833 

Shaving, Lotion before 4833 

Shaving Paste 1165 

Shaving Soap 597, 603 

Shaving Wash 1161 

Shavings, to Acetify, for Vine- 
gar 1736 

Shawls, Woolen, to wash 436 

Shear Steel 3275 

Sheeps' Pelts, to tan 646 

Sheepskin Mats, to clean 420 

Sheepskins, to prepare, for Mats 647 

Sheet-Bend Knot, to tie a 62G1 

Sheeting, to bleach 509 

Shell Goid 3569 

SheULime 3994 

SheUs. to clean 6187 

SheUs, to color 6188 

Shells, to etch on 6186 

SheUac, Filter for 2934 

Shellac Ink 2484 

Shellac, to bleach 1723 

Shellac, to dissolve, in Ammo- 
nia 6222 

Shellac, to dissolve, in Spirit.. 2906 

Shellac Varnish 2923, 2933, <fcc. 

Sherbet 904 

Sherbet Svrup 1421 

Sherry Cobbler 922 

Shinn's Bitter Wine of Iron. . .4707 

Shirt-Bosoms, to starch 498 

Shoemakers' Black 3080, 4146 

Shoemakers' Measures 598 1 

Shoes, Varnish for 2957, 29GG 

Shoes, White Satin, to clean.. 455 
Shortness of Breath, to relieve. 57G5 
Shortness of Breath, to remedy 5764 

Shrub. Raspberry 905 

Shute's Artificial Honey 1572 

Sick-Chambers, Precautions on 

Entering 1705 

Sick-Chambers, to perfume 1709 

Sick-Chambers, to purify. 1695, (fee. 
Sick Headache, Remedies for. .5702 

Sick Stomach, Remedv for 5781 

Sifting - 28, 4573 

Sisnal Lights 2071, 2103 

Silicate of Potash 2816 

SUicate of Potassa for Strength- 
ening Skeletons 2235 

Silicate of Soda 2816 

Rilicium, to electroplate with.. 3767 
Silk. Acid-stained, to restore 

the Color of 6334 

Silk, AnUine Dyes for 2574, Sec. 

Silk, Black, to clean 457 

Silk, Black, to restore Color of 459 

Silk, Colored, to clean 448 

SUk, Family Receipts for Dye- 
ing 3(34, <fcc. 

Silk for Trimmings, to stiffen. 476 

Silk Lace, White, to clean 472 

Silk Pocket-handkerchiefs, to 

wash 477 

Silk, Receipts for Dyeing.. 233, <fec. 

Silk, Solvent for . . . ." 1937 

Silk Stockines, White, to wash. 467 

Silk, to bleach 1716, 1719 

Silk, to bleach, by Sulphuration 1717 

Silk, to clean 437, 460, 6342 

Silk, to clean, with Old Kid- 
gloves 456 

Silk, to distinguish, in Mixed 

Fabrics T 299, <fec. 

Silk, to electrogild on 3738 

Silk, to electroplate on 3738 

Silk, to electrotype on 3738 

Silk, to gild on.' 3599, 3738 

Silk, to prepare, for Dyeing 233 

Silk, to prepare, for Washing.. 474 

Silk, to preserve 6202 

Silk, to remove Stains and Grease 
from 338, 341, 350, &c.. 6343 



of. 



Silver, Assay of 3206, &c. 

Silver Assay, Solution for 3208 

Silver Assay, Weights used for 5949 
Silver Bath'for Photography.. 3150 

Silver, Chloride of 3214, 3216 

Silver, Chloride of, to reduce 

Metallic Silver from 4079 

Silver Coins, to clean 3239 

Silver, Cyanide of 3697 

Silver Dust 3217, 3536 

Silver Enamel, Black 2398 

Silver, French 3428 

Silver, French Coin 3408 

SUvcr, Fulminating 2133 

Silver, German, see German Sil- 
ver. 

Silver, Hard 3407 

Silver Ink 2492 

Silver Lace, to clean 414 

Silver Leaf, to pulverize 2517 

Silver, Liquid 2519 

Silver Lustre for Pottery 2418 

Silver, Mosaic 6361 

Silver, Xitrate of 4077, 4080 

Silver, Oxide of 4078 

Silver, Permanent Black Writ- 
ing on 2525 

Silver, Polished, to frost 3218 

Silver, Powder for Burnishing. 3223 

Silver, Powder for cleaning 3229 

Silver, Pure, to obtain 3212, 3216 

Silver Rain for Rockets 2057 

Silver, Solder for 3493, &c. 

Silver Solution 3537 

Silver Solution for Electroplat- 
ing 3698, &c. 

Silver Solution for Photo- 
graphy 3133 

Silver Solutions for Silvering. .3604 

Silver, Solvent for 3213 

Silver Stains, to remove, from 

the Hands 387, 3141 

SUvcr Stains, to remove, from 

Linen 385, (fee, 6339 <fec. 

Silver, Sulphate of 4081 

Silver, Sulphuret of 4082 

SHver, Test for 3211 

Silver, Test for, in Solutions ... 4083 
Silver, Test for, on Plated-ware 3714 

3722. 
Silver, to clean. 3226, 3230, &c.. 6345 
Silver, to clean, after Soldering 3222 
Silver, to coat, with Platina. . .3670 

Silver, to dissolve 3537 

Silver, to extract, from Lead.. 3210 

Silver, to gild 3577 

Silver, to keep, from Tarnish- 
ing 3224, 3232 

Silver, to oxidize 3219 

Silver, to purify 3214 

Silver, to recover, from Copper. 3716 

3721. 
Silver, to recover, from old Pla- 
ted Ware 3720 

SHver, to recover, from Solu- 
tions 3158, 3166, 3702 

Silver, to reduce 3214. 4079 

SUver, to remove Stains from.. 3236 
Silver, to remove Chalky ap- 
pearance of after Plating . . .3709 
Silver, to separate, from Copper3245 

Silver, to test 438G 

Silver Tree, to make a 3221 

SUver White Bronzing Pow- 
der 379G 

Silvering on Bone 3628 

Silvering, Cold 3611 

Silvering on Cotton 3627 

474 j Silvering, Dead, for Medals . . .3719 

Silvering on Flowers 3694 

Silvering on Glass bv Solutions. 3615 
&c., 3631. 



SilK, to silver 3599, 3627, 3738 Silvering on Glass with Amal- 

Silk. to wash 475, 6378 j gam 3613 

Siller's Method of Clarifying Silvering on Horn 3628 

Honev 1.570 ! Silvering on Iron . .3608, 3610, 3715 

Silver. ." 3205 | SUvering on Ivory - .2006 



598 



SIL — SNA 



SNA — SOD 



SOD — SOL 



Silvering on Leather 3629 

Silvering- on Metals. 3599, &o., 3632 

3744. 
Silvering on Mirrors, to repair. 3624 

Silvering on Paper 3628 

Silvering on Porcelain 3631 

Silvering on Pottery 3630 

Silvering on SUk 3599, 3627 

Silvering on Steel 3715 

Silvering on Various Substan- 
ces 3626 

Si-lvering on Wood 3612 

Silvering on Wool 3627 

Simple Cerate 4932, 4939 

Simple Cream-syrup 1426 

Simple Syrup for Cordials 1385 

Singer's Cement 2170 

Singing Birds, Paste for 6191 

Siret's Disinfecting Compoimd.1702 

Sirop Caplllaire 1380 

Size, Albuminous 1953 

Size for Engravings to be Col- 
ored 2647 

Size for Gilding Frames, &c. . .3562 

Size for HoUand Linen 6328 

Size for Painters 2757 

Size for Paper 1951 

Size for preparing Wood for 

Gilding 3559 

Size, Glue 2815 

Size; Ivory 2009 

Size, Oil, for Gilding 3571, 3580 

Size, Parchment 3559 

Size, to extract the, from Paper 6403 

Size, Water, for GUding 3572 

Skeleton Leaves,to bleach 6169,6171 
Skeleton Leaves, to prepare 6168,6170 
Skeletons, to cement and 

strengthen 2235 

Skeletons, to prepare 6182 

Skin, Artificial, for Cuts 5501 

Skin, Cosmetics for the. ..1116, &c. 
Skin, Eruptions on the, to cure. 5490 
Skin, Irritation of the, to allay. 5491 

Skin, Lotions for the 1141, &c. 

Skin, Paints, or Rouges for the 1107 
Skin, Spanish, for perfuming. -.1355 
Skin, to remove Tar, &c., from 

the 6421 

Skin, to remove Tattoo Marks 

from the 5883 

Skin, Vanilla Powder for the. .1105 
Skin, Violet Powder for the 1100,1106 

Skins, Fur, to tan 645 

Skins, Muskrat, to tan 648 

Skins, Ea'bbit, to cure 649 

Skins, Sheep, to prepare,for Mats 647 

Skins, Sheep, to tan 646 

Skins, Skunk, to deodorize 660 

Skunk-Cabbage, Tincture of.. .4498 

Skunk Skins, to deodorize 660 

Sky-Blue Dye for Cottons 131 

Sky-Blue Dye for Silks 254 

Sky-Blue Dye for Woolens 204 

Sky-Lights, Leaky, to stop... -6235 
Slag, Furnace, Cement from... 2212 
Slate-Color Dye for Family Use 331 

Slate-Color Dve for Silks 275 

Slate-Color Dye for Woolens. . . 216 
Slate, Imitation, for Black-boards 
S353. 

Slates, to test 4385 

Slaughter Houses, Disinfectants 

for 1694 

Slippery-Elm Poultice 5020 

Slugs, to drive away 1923 

Sm aU-Pox, to prevent Pitting in 5759 
SmaU-Pox, to remove Pitting af- 
ter : 5762 

Small-Pox, Treatment of 5738 

SmaU-Pox, Xylol for 6409 

Smalt, to remove.fromOld Signs 2782 

Smalts for Pigment 2G87 

Smee's Battery 3667 

KmeUing Salts 1089, &c. 

Smelling Salts, Inexhaustible . 1093 

Smith's Itch Ointment 5240 

Smith's Lavender Water 990 

Smoking Fluid for Meat, &c.,.1601 
Smoking Meat, &c.. Directions 

for 1600 

Bnails, to keep, from Garden- 
beds 1862 



Snake Bites, Cure for 5926 

Snakeroot, Black, Fluid Extract 

of 4575, 4592 

Snakeroot, Black, Tincture of 4514 
Snakeroot, Virginia, Fluid Ex- 
tract of 4576 

Snakeroot, Virginia, Tincture 

of 4525 

Snow Cream for the Complexion 1131 

Snuff, Cephalic 5333 

Snulf, Scents for 1352 

Snuff, to scent 1353 

Snuffles, Cure for 5622 

Soap, Almond 557, 592 

Soap, Arsenical 1669, &c. 

Soap, Art of Making 518, (fee. 

Soap, Bad, to improve 6308 

Soap Balls 574, &c. 

Soap Bubbles, to prepare Soap 

for 6193, <fcc. 

Soap by the Cold Process. .582, &c. 
Soap, Cadmium TeUow for Col- 
oring 2638 

Soap, Camphorated Tincture of 4503 

Soap, Carbolic Acid 581 

Soap, Caution in using Medica- 
ted 579 

Soap, Chemical 546 

Soap, Cinnamon 573 

Soap, Cocoa-nut Oil ...542, 593, 594 

Soap, Composite, Patent 545 

Soap, Domestic 549, 551 

Soap, Essence of 604 

Soap, Fig 601 

Soap, Filled 538 

Soap, Floating 568 

Soap, Frangipanni 562 

Soap, Glycerine 570 

Soap Grease, to preserve. 536, 6309 

Soap, Honey 560 

Soap, Honey, Imitation 561 

Soap, Labor-saving 616 

Soap Liniment 4869, 5443, 6404 

Soap Makers' Lye 519, 588, &c. 

Soap Marble for Book-covers . 3123 

Soap, Mercurial 577 

Soap, Metallic, for Waterproof- 
ing 1562 

Soap, Mottled 576 

Soap, Musk 571 

Soap, Olive OU 605 

Soap, Orange-flower 572 

Soap, Ox-gall 552 

Soap, Palm OH 543, 567 

Soaji, Poncine 565 

Soap Poultice 5036 

Soap, Eesin 541 

Soap, Rose 563 

Soap, Rypophagon] 603 

Soap, Sand ' 575 

Soap, Shaving 602, &c. 

Soap, Soft 521, 600, &c. 

Soap, Soft, to make. Hard 615 

Soap, Spermaceti 566 

Soap, Sulphur 578 

Soap, Tallow 539, 544, 547 

Soap, TaUow Resin 540 

Soap, Toilet, Various Receipts 
553, &c., 595. 

Soap, to analyze 620 

Soap, to clariJy Fat for 529 

Soap, to deodorize Fat for 530 

Soap, to marble 556 

Soap, to perfume, &c 555 

Soap, to pulverize 619 

Soap, to refine, for the Toilet. . 554 

Soap, to test 617, &c. 

Soap Tooth Paste 1311 

Soap, Transparent 569 

Soap, Turpentine 613 

Soap, Turpentine, to nse 614 

Soap, Washing 598, 599 

Soap, Whale-oil, for destroying 

Insects 580 

Soap, White 591, 606 

Soap, Windsor 558, 559 

Soda 3978 

Soda, Acetate of 4206 

Soda and Antimony, Tartrate 

of 4129 

Soda, Carbonates of 4208 

Soda, Caustic 102, 3979 

Soda, Caustic, to test 584, &c. 



Soda, Hydrate of 3971 

Soda, Hyposulphite of 4211 

Soda Lye, Analysis of 621, &c. 

Soda Lye, Caustic, Home-made 

548, 550. 
Soda Lye, Caustic, Tables of 623, 630 

Soda Lye, Soapmakers' 519 

Soda, Liquor of 4785 

Soda Mint 5397 

Soda, Phosphate of 4210 

Soda Poisons, Antidotes for.. .5901 

Soda, Potassio-tartrate of 4213 

Soda, Santonate of 4649 

Soda, Silicate of 2816, &c. 

Soda Soluble Glass 2818, &c. 

Soda, Solution of 4785 

Soda Solutions, Tables of.. 627, 628 

Soda, Sulphate of 4207 

Soda, Tests for 3980 

Soda, to obtain 3979 

Soda, Tungstate of 421 2 

Soda Water, Cream Syrups for 1425 
Soda Water, Syrups for.. 1384, &c. 

Sodic Hydrate 3979 

Sodium, Bromide of 4214 

Sodium, Chloride of 4215 

Sodium, Fluid Alloy of. 3455 

Sodium, Iodide of 4216 

Sodium, Mtro-prusside of 4217 

Soft Corns, to cure 5850 

Soft Sealing-wax for Diplomas. 2327 

Soft Soap 521, 600, &c. 

Soft Soap, to make. Hard 615 

Soft Solder 3479, 3500 

Soft Soldering, see Solderlng. 

Soil, Composts for the 1821 

Soil, Fertilizers for the . . . 1820, &c. 

Solder, Aluminum 3520, 3522 

Solder, Brass 3507, 3512 

Solder, Brass for 3371 

Solder Drops 3519 

Solder for Brass 3518 

Solder for Copper 3498, 3517 

Solder for Gold 3492 

Solder for Iron 3512, 3515, <fec. 

Solder for Lead 3506 

Solder for Pewter 3502 

Solder for Silver 3493, 3495, Sec. 

Solder for Steel 3511, &c. 

Solder for Tin 3499 

Solder, Fusible in Boiling Water3504 

Solder, Glaziers' 3503 

Solder, Hard 3488, 3494, 3515 

Solder, Plumbers' 3505 

Solder, Soft 3479, 3500 

Solder, Spelter 3488 

Solder, Spelter, Flux for 3489 

Solder, to make 3491 

Soldering 3472. &c. 

Soldering, see metal to be soldered. 

Soldering, Fluids for 3473, &c. 

Solderinc:, Fluxes for 3471, 3476, 
&c., 3480, &c., 3531. 

Soldering, Hard 3488, 3490 

Soldering Smooth Surfaces 3487 

Soldering, Soft 3479, 3486 

Soldering, to clean Gold after 3200 
Soldering, to clean Silver after 3222 

Solferino Ink 2497 

Solferino Syrup 1424 

Solid Measure, see Cubic Measm*e. 

Solidified Glycerine 6298 

Soluble Glass 2816, &c. 

Soluble Glass, Double 2822 

Soluble Glass for Stereo-chromic 

Painting 2823 

Soluble Glass, Potash 2817 

Soluble Glass, Potash and Soda, 

to distinguish 2820 

Soluble Glass, Soda 2818, 2819 

Solution 29 

Solutions for Anatomical Pre- 
parations 1651, &c. 

Solutions for cleaning Brass ..3393 
Solutions for coloring Gold3197.&c. 
Solutions for coloring Metals. .318* 

Solutions for Dyeing 121 

Solvitions for Electroplating, &c., 

3698, &c., 3726, &c. 
Sohitions for Photographic Pa- 
per 3131, 3133 

Solutions for Photography 3151,3160 
3181. &c. 



SOL — SPI 



SPI — STA 



STA — STE 



599 



Solutions for preserving- "Wood 1080 
Solutions, Medicinal and Chem- 
ical 4769, &c. 

Solutions, Saturated, Boiling 

Heat of 7 

Solutions, Simple, see SUBSTANCE 
to be dissolved. 

Solvent for India-rubber 2947 

Solvent for Gutta-percha 2947 

Solvent for Silk, Paper, &c., . . . 1937 

Solvent for Silver 3213 

Soot Water for Rose-bushes. . .1841 
Sore Throat, Remedies for 5063, 5068 
Sore Throat, Syphilitic, Gargle 

for 5609 

Sore Throat, Ulcerated, to treat 
5067, 5608. 

Sores, Bed, Lotion for 5820 

Sores, Bed, to relievo 5821 

Sores, Bed, Treatment of 5503 

Sores, Clay Dressing for 5511 

Sores, Running, see Ulceus. 
Soubeiran's Apparatus for Dis- 
tilling Perfumed Waters 1077 

Soubeiran's Pomade 1283 

Soubeiran's Veratrine Lotion. .5406 

Sound, Velocity of 6124 

Soup Herbs, Essence of 1763 

Soup Herbs, Extract of 1044 

Soup Tablets, German 1633 

Sour for Dyeing, to make a. . . 105 

Sour, Santa Cruz 926 

Sour Wine, to remedy 751, 754 

Soy 1754 

Soyer's Table Mustard 1786 

Sozodont 1330 

Spackman's Anti- dyspeptic PiUs 

5683. 
Spackman's Cholera Mixture. .5667 
Spacknian's Copaiba Mixture .5735 

Spackman's Lotion 4823 

Spackman's Salve for Piles 4987 

Spackman's Tonic Mixture 5123 

Spackman's Worm Syrup 5044 

Spanish Bitters 825 

Spanish Chocolate 6277, 6278 

Spanish Cure for Rheumatism . 5537 

Spanish Dentifrice 1311 

Spanish Fly, see Canthauides. 

Spanish Money 6091 

Spanish Skin 1355 

Spanish Weights and Measures 6092 
Spars, to find the Content of. . .6003 

Sparteine 4020 

Spasm of the Bladder, to relieve 
4521, 5741. 

Spasms, Remedy for 5576 

Spearmint, Essence of 4614 

Spearmint, Essential Oil of 1465 

Specific Gravity 47 

Specific Gravity of Degrees of 
Areometers, &c., see J^'ame 
of Ai'eometer. 

Specific Gravity of Gases 49 

Specific Gravity of Liquids 49 

Specific Gravity of Percentages 

of Alcohol £9 

Specific Gravity of Powders. 50, £4. 

Specific Gravity of Solids 48, 50 

Specific Gravity of Syrups, Ta- 
ble of 1362 

Specific Gravity, to convert De- 
grees of Baume into 66 

Specific Gravity, to convert, 

into Degrees of Baume 67 

Specific Gravity, to find the 
Weiglit of a Body from its. . 52 

Spectroscopes, Liquid 2364 

Specula, Polishing Powder for. 6356 

Speculum Metal 3348, 3444 

Spelter Solder 3488 

Spencer' s Method of Silvering 

on Wood 3612 

Sperm Oil for Lubrication 1540 

Sperm aceti Cerate 4933 

Spermaceti, Imitation 1524 

Spermaceti Ointment 4940 

Spermaceti Soap 566 

Spermaceti Stains, to remove. 343 
Spermaceti, to detect, in Wax 1.582 
Spermatorrhoea, Cure for 5739,-5746 j 
Spheres. Surface and Contents of 6002 : 
Spice Mills, to clean 423 | 



opiced Vinegar for Pickles 1791 

Spices, Savory, Essence of . . . 1764 

Spices, Savory, Tincture of 1765 

Spider Bites, to cure 5927 

Spiders, Red, to protect Plants 

from 1857 

Spigelia, Fluid Extract of 4577 

Spike, Oil of. Factitious 4873 

Spii'it Dyes for Cottons 141 

Spirit Finings 703 

Spirit of Ammonia, Aromatic. 1094 
Spirit of Camphor.. 4491, 4611, 4862 

Spirit of Ether, Compound 4749 

Spirit of Juniner, Compound ..5151 

Spirit of Minaercrus 5143 

Spirit of Sal Volatile 1096 

Spii-it of Salt 365 

Spirit, Proof 1436 

Spii-it, Scarlet 199 

Spirit Stiffening for Hats 335 

Spirit Varnishes-. 2903, &c. 

Spirits, Barwood 110 

Spirits, Distilled Aromatic 941 

Spii-its for finishing lYench Pol- 
ish 3006 

Spirits, Perfumed 940, 976, 998 

Spirits, Plumb Ill, 112 

Spirits, Red 108 

Spirits, Tin, for Dyeing .. .107, &c. 

Spii-its, Yellow 109 

Spirituous Extracts 44 

Spitting of Blood 5563 

Splinters, to extract 5499 

Spondumene 4239 

Sponge, to bleach 1721 

Spongio-Piline 5039 

Spongy Platinum 3336 

Spoons, French Alloy for 3427 

Spoons, White Metal for 3416 

Sportsman's Beef 1617 

Sportsmen's Water-proofing for 

Boots 3071 

Spots, to remove, see Stains. 
Spotted Marbling for Books. . .3124 

Sprains, Liniment for 4858, 4887 

Sprains, Poultice for 5025 

Sprains, Remedy for 5494, <fcc. 

Sprains, Treatment of . . . 5493, 5495 
Sprinkles for Books, see Marbles. 

Spring Beer, to brew 883 

Springs for Artificial Teeth . . .3406 

Springs, Spiral, to temper 3288 

Spruce Beer 884, &.c. 

Spruce Beer Powders 903 

Spruce, Essence of 888 

Square Measure 5982 

Square Measure Expressed in 

Square Metres 5983 

Square Metres, see Ares. 

Square, to find the Area of a. .5989 

Squibb's Ammonio-pyrophos- 

phate of Iron 4737 

Squibb's Compound Tincture of 

Opium 4531 

Squibb's Liquor of Iodide of 

Ii'on 4703 

Squill and Benzoin, Tincture of 4555 

Squill, Fluid Extract of 4576 

Squill, Fluid Extract of, Com- 
pound 4593 

Squill, Oxymcl of 46D1 

Squill Pills, Compound 4924 

Squill Root, to dry 1889 

Squill, Syrup of, Compound ...4652 

Squill, Tincture of 4564 

Squinting 5790 

Squire's Chlorodyne 5203 

Squii-c"s Elixir 5228 

Stables, Disinfectants for 1694 

Stables, to di-ive Flies from 1923 

Staining, see article to be stained. 
Staining, Wood, to improve the 

Color of 28.57 

Stains, Spots,&c..to remove 337, <fec. 
Stains, all Xon-metallic, to re- 
move 372 

Stains, Acid, on SUk, to restore 

the Color 6334 

Stains, Aniline, to remove 2566 

Stains, Benzine, to remove 6344 

Stains, Blood, to detect 6415 

Stains, Blood, to remove 6341 

Stains for Wood 2842 



I Stains, Fruit, to remove. 360,364,369 
, Stains, Grease, to remove, from 

JHper 410 

Stains, Grease, to remove, from 

Silk 6343 

Stains, Grease, to remove, from 

Woolens 345 

Stains, Hair-dye, to remove. 385, 387 

6339. 
Stains, Indelible Ink, to remove 129 

385. 6339. 
Stains, Ink, to remove. 375, 379, 384 
Stains, Ink, to remove, from 

Books 412, 6393 

Stains, Ink, to remove, from 

Mahogany 389, 393 

Stains, Ink, to remove, from 

Silver 3236, 3238 

Stains, Iodine, to remove 371 

Stains, Iron, to remove, from 

Cottons 127, 37.5, &c. 

Stains, Iron-mould,to remove... 375 
Stains, Nitrate of Silver, to re- 
move 38.5, 387, 3141,6339 

Stains, Oil, to remove, from 

Boards 394, 401 

Stains, Oil, to remove, from Cot 

tons 126 

Stains, OH, to remove, from 

Leather 359 

Stains, Oil, to remove, from Mar- 
ble 394, 401 

Stains, Oil, to remove, from Pa- 
per 359 

Stains, Perspiration, to remove 505 
Stains, Prepared Ox-gall for re- 
moving 373 

Stains, to remove, from Black 

Crape 470 

Stains, to remove, from Black 

Dresses 470 

Stains, to remove, from Bomba- 
zine 470 

Stains, to remove, from Kid 

Gloves 438 

Stains, to remove, from Knives 6322 
Stains, to remove, from Silver. 3257 
Stains, to remove, from White 

Marble 400, 403, 514, Sz.c. 

Stains, Vegetable, to remove.. 360 

Stains, Varnish, to remove 339 

Stains, Water, to remove, from 

Engravings 6398, 6400 

Stains, Wine, to remove 360,304,369 
Stains, TeUoAV, to remove, from 

Engravings 413 

Stair Carpets, to clean 445 

Stair Carpets, to keep, from 

Wearing 6199 

Stairs, Stone, to clean 428 

Standard Government Measures, 

Alloy of the 3434 

Standard Weights and Measures, 
5934, <fec. 

Standert's Red Mixtm-e 52.i 3 

Stannates 4121 

Stannic Acid 4121 

Starch for Colored Articles . . . 499 
Starch for Linens and Cottons. 497 

Starch Gima 4345 

Starch, Gum-arabic 498 

Starch, How to use 497 

Starch Lustre 6329 

Starch, Test for 4381 

Starch, to clear 501 

Starch, to remove, from Flat 

Irons 6228 

Starch, Waterproof 6310 

Stars for Rockets, &c., 2058 

Startin's Borax and Glycerine 

Lotion 5452 

Startin's Glycerine Lotion 4840,4842 

Stavesacre Ointment 4956 

Steam Boilers, see Boileks. 

Stearine 4325 

Stearine Stains, to remove 343 

Steel 3273 

Steel AUovs of 3423 

Steel and Iron, to make Edge- 
tools of 3280 

Steel, Blistered 3274 

Steel, Brown Tint for 3262 

Steel, Cast 3276 



600 STE— STO 

Steel, Cement to join Leather to 2259 
eteeL Composition for Welding 3523 
eteel, Etching Fluid for. .2963, 3284 

Steel, Flux for Soldering 3477 

Steel, Flux for Welding 3531 

Steel Rods, Weight of 6145 

Steel Scrapers, to make 6259 

Steel, Shear 3275 

Steel, Solder for 3511 

Steel, Solution for Gilding 3585 

Steel, to anneal 3283 

Steel, to blue 3278 

Steel, to case-harden 3297, &c. 

Steel, to cement Steel to 2152 

Steel, to clean 3272 

Steel, to coat, Tvith Copper 3636 

Steel, to convert Iron into 3274 

Steel, to distinguish Iron from. 3260 

Steel, to electro-plate on 3711 

Steel, to gild 3582 

Steel, to keep, from Kusting . . .3306 

3764. 

Steel, to make, Blue 3278, 3290 

Steel, to make, from Iron Scraps 

3277. 
Steel, to make, Straw-colored .3285 

3290. 
Steel, to remove Pin Spots irom 6304 

Steel, to remove Kust from 3308 

Steel, to remove Scale from ...3281 
Steel, to restore, when Burnt . .3282 

Steel, to straighten 3295 

Steel, to temper 3285, &c. 

Steel, to weld 3523 

Steer's Opodeldoc 4869, 5443 

Stencil Ink, Black 6366 

Stephens' Infusion of Cayenne 

Pepper and Salt 5312 

Stephens' Patent Blue Ink 2481 

Stewart's Svrup of Rhubarb. . .4640 
Stm for Perfumed Waters 1073,1077 

Stills for General Purposes 13 

Sticks for Plants, to prevent, 

from rotting 1874 

Sticky Substances, to remove, 

from Glass, &c., 6422 

Sticky Substances, to remove, 

from the Skin 6421 

Stiff Neck, Cure of 5640 

Stillingia, Fluid Extract of 4587 

StUlingia, Syrup of 4672 

Stillingia, Syrup of. Compound 4673 

Stillingia, Tincture of 4508 

Stills, Lute for 2264 

Stimulating Fomentation 5160 

Stimulating Liniment 4888 

Stings of Insects, &c., to cure .5927 
Stockings, White Silk, to wash 4G7 

Stokes' Liniment 5323 

Stolba's Method of Mckel-coat- 

ing 3C59 

Stolba's Method of Tinning 

Metal 3644 
Stolzel's BroAvn Stain for Wood 2854 
Stomach, Acidity of the, to cor- 
rect 5685 

Stomach Bitters 827 

Stomach Pump, Simple 5917 

Stomach, Sick, Remedy for 5781 

Stomachic Elixir 5118 

Stone, Artificial 2196, 2219 

Stone, Blue, to make 120 

Stone, Cement for 2218, 2225 

Stone, Cement to join Iron to. .2211 

2215. 
Stone-ColorDye for Cottons... 180 

Stone-Color Dye for Silks 275 

Stone-Color Dye for Woolens. . 215 

Stone, Measurement of 6000 

Stone, Oil of 5301 

Stone Paper or Cloth 1934 

Stone, Preservation of 6300 

Stone Stairs, to clean 428 

Stone, to cement Metal to 2215,2222 

2231. 
Stone, to transfer Engravings 

on to 6336 

Stone Ware, to bronze 3827 

Stoppers. Glass, to remove 6206 

Storax, Essence of 962 

Storax, Oil of 1238 

Storax PiUs 4925 

Storax Pomade 1262 



STO — SUL 

Storax, Tincture of. 1016 

Storm Glass 6184 

Storm's Specific 5436 

Stoughton's Bitters 819 

Stout, Bitter Balls for 870 

Stout, to brew 856 

Stoves, Cement to fill Crackjin2214 
Stoves, to keep, from Rusting .6303 

Straining 17 

Stramonium, Fluid Extract of. 4574 

Stramonium Ointment 4946 

Stramonium, Tincture of. 4499, 4.565 
Strass for Artificial Gems 2352,2419 
Straw-Color Dye for Cottons 157,184 

Straw-Color Dye for Silks 268 

Straw-Goods, to bleach ..1717, 1719 
1720. 

Straw-Goods, to clean 511 

Straw-Goods, to dye. Black ...6349 

Straw Matting, to clean . . 418 

Strawberries, to can 1636 

Strawberry Beds, to protect, 

from Snails 1862 

Strawberry Essence, Artificial 1058 

Strawberry Syrup 1374 

Strawberry Syrup for Soda Wa- 
ter 1398 

Strawberry Syrup, Imitation.. 1402 

Strawberry Vinegar 1780 

Strawberry Wine 728 

Strengthening Fomentation . . .5158 

Strengthening Plaster 5049 

Stronger Alcohol, OflBcinal 1439 

Strontia 3989 

Strop for Razors 6246 

Strops, Razor, Paste for 6247 

Strychnine or Strychnia 4005 

Strychnine, Antidotes for 5912 

Strychnine, Solution of 5554 

Stucco 2199, 2201 

Stucco, to silver 3630 

Stuff, Coarse, for Plastering... 2197 

Stuff, Fine, for Plastering 2198 

Stuff, Gauge, for Mouldings . . . 2200 

Styes, Treatment of 5791 

Styptics 5555, &c. 

Styptic CoUodion 5559, 5562 

Styptic Cotton 5560 

Styptic Paper 5561 

Styptic Solution ...4816, 5430, 5558 
Styrax, see Storax. 

Styrol 4315 

Sublimate, Corrosive 4139 

Sublimate, Corrosive, Antidotes 

for 5902, 5903 

Sublimate, Corrosive, Antisep- 
tic Solution of 1664 

Sublimation 30 

Submarine Tarnish 2955 

Substantive Colors 93 

Succinic Acid 4306 

Sudorifics 5134, &c. 

Suet, Mutton 524 

Suet, to keep 6288 

Suet, to purify 1253 

Sugar, Adulteration of 4380 

Sugar, Clarification of 6285 

Sugar, Clarification of, for Sy- 
rups 1357 

Sugar, Degrees of Boiling, for 

Candies 1368 

Sugar in Frine, Test for. 4396, 4397 
Sugar of Lead, Antidotes for . 5908 
Sugar of Lead, see Acetate of 

Lead. 
Sugar, Proportions of, for Sy- 
rups 1360 

Sugar Resin 4313 

Sugar, Test for, in Aniline 2561 

Sugar, to make Vinegar from. 1747 
Sugar, to remove, from Aniline 2562 

Sulphates 3854 

Sulphate of Alumina 4259 

Sulphate of Ammonia 4223 

Sulphate of Baryta 2697, 4231 

Sulphate of Cop;^er 4096 

Sulphate of Copper, Antidotes 

for 5904 

Sulphate of Copper Electrotyp- 

ing Solution 3661 

Sulphate of Indigo 98, 4791 

Sulphate oi Iron 4146 

Sulphate of Iron, Solution of ..4168 



SUL — SUN 

Sulphate of Lithia 4239 

Sulphate of Magnesia 4241 

Sulphate of Morphia, Solution of 
4771, 4781. 

Sulphate of Nickel 4177 

Sulphate of Quinine 4265 

Sulphate of Quinine Pills 4904 

Sulphate cf Quinine, Tests for 4266 
Sulphate of Quiniue.to dissolve 5578 

Sulphate of Silver 4081 

Sulphate of Soda 4207 

Sulphate of Zinc 4114 

Sulphate of Zinc, Antidote for 5907 
Sulphides, see Sulfhukets. 

Sulphites 3864 

Sulphite of Copper 4093 

Sulphite of Soda Pills 4927 

Sulpho-Cyanide of Ammonium 4226 
Sulpho-Cyanide of Potassium.. 4205 

Sulphur 4349 

Sulphur, Amorphous or Brown 4350 

Sulphur, Balsam of 5114 

Sulphur Bath. 5480 

Sulphur, Black 4355 

Sulphur, Flowers of 4354 

Sulphur Ointment 4998 

Sulphur Pills 4926 

Sulphur, Precipitated 4351 

Sulphur, Precipitated, to purify 4352 

Sulphur, RoU 4353 

Sulphur Soap 578 

Sulphur, Sublimed 4354 

Sulphur, to detect, in Coal Gas 4399 

Sulphur Yivum 4355 

Sulphur Wash 5274 

Sulphuration 1717 

Sulpburets 4349 

Sulphuret of Ammonia 1203 

Sulphuret cf Ammonium 4228 

Sulphuret of Antimony. . .4132, 4133 

Sulphuret of Arsenic 4356 

Sulphuret of Barium 4237 

Sulphuret of Carbon 4309, 4311 

Sulphuret of Iron ...4053, 4147, &e. 

Sulphuret of Magnesia 4242 

Sulphuret of Mercuij 2682 

Sulphuret of Potassium 4204 

Sulphuret of Silver 4082 

Sulphuretted Hydrogen.. 3870, 4052 
Sulphuretted Hydrogen, Solu- 
tion of 4793 

Sulphuretted Hydrogen, Tests 

for 4054 

Sulphuretted Hydrogen, to ob- 
tain 4053 

Sulphuretted Hydrosulphate of 

Ammonia 5353 

Sulphuretted Lotion 4834 

Sulphuretted Water 4462 

Sulphuric Acid 3854 

Sulphuric Acid, Alcoholized.. .4741 
Sulphuric Acid, Anhydrous .. 3856 

Sulphuric Acid, Aromatic 4740 

Sulphuric Acid, Cement to re- 
sist 6311 

Sulphuric Acid, Commercial. . 3855 
Sulphuric Acid, Concentrated 3858 

Sulphuric Acid, Dilute 3857 

Sulphuric Acid, Nordhausen's 

Fuming 3858 

Sulphuric Acid, Table of Per- 
centages of 3859 

Sulphuric Acid, Test for Nitric 

Acid in 3861 

Sulphuric Acid, to decolorize.. 3863 

Sulphuric Acid, to purify 3860 

Sulphuric Acid, to remove Ni- 
tric Acid from 3862 

Sulphurous Acid... 1718, 3864, 4066 
Sulphurous Acid, to obtain... 3865 
Sulphurous Acid, pure Gaseous 3866 

3868. 
Sulphurous Acid, pure Liquid .3869 
Sulphurous Acid, Solution of -.3867 

Sultana Cold-cream 1127 

Sumach, Fluid Extract of 4600 

Sumach, Remedy for Poisoning 

by 5930 

Summer Complaint, Remedy for 5659 
Summer Suits, Ladies', to wash 6412 
Sunburns, Borax Lotion for .. 'J 157 

Sunstroke 5782 

Simstroke, Treatment of 5783 



SUP — SYR 



SYR — TAB 



TAB — TAR 



601 



Superficial Measure, see Square 
Measure. 

Surface Bronzing 3792, &c. 

Swaim's Vermifuge 5246 

Swansdown, to clean 657 

Sweating Drops 5142 

Sweating in Wines 757 

Sweating, Infusion to produce. 5138 
Sweating, Powder to produce .5145 

Swedish Essence of Life 5337 

Swedish Money 6096 

Swedish Weights and Measures 6097 

Sweet Cider 834 

Sweet Cider, Imitation 849 

Sweet Spirit of Nitre 4289 

Swiss Money 6101 

Swiss Av eights and Measures. .6102 

Sydenham's Laudanum 5370 

Sympathetic Inks for Secret 

'Writing 2533, &c. 

Sympathetic Paper for Secret 

Writing 1977, &c. 

Syphilitic Ehemnatism, Cure 

for 5537 

Syphilitic Sore-throat Gargle. .5609 

Syphon Filter 17, 3840 

Syphon for Decantation 10 

Syringes, Glass, Cement for. ..2166 

Syrup, Alterative 5163 

Syrup, Ambrosia 1422 

Syrup. Apple 1412 

Syrup, Arrack Punch 1377 

Syrup, Banana 1413 

Syrup, Blackberry 1404 

Svrup, Cherry 1381 

Syrup, Chocolate 1409 

Syrup, Cinnamon 1379 

Svrup, Claret 1423 

Syrup, Coffee 1378, 1418 

Syrup, Coffee Cream 1433 

Syrup, Cough 5465, 5603 

Syrup, Cream 1425, &c. 

Syrup, Cream, Imitation 1430 

Syrup for Champagne Wines . 715 

Syrup for Hoarseness 5249 

Svrup for Whooping Cough. . .5633 

Syrup, Ginger 1392, 1393 

Syrup, Grape 1414 

Syrup, Gum 1371 

Syrup, Hive 5273 

Syrup, Hock 1423 

Syrup, Lemon 1375, 1387, 1388 

Syrup, Maple 1408 

Syrup, :Xectar 1419, 1420 

Syrup, Nectar Cream 1434 

Syrup, Xursing 5308 

Syrup of Assafoetida, Com- 
pound 4686 

Syrup of Balsam of Copaiba. . .4667 
Syrup of Black Cohosh, Com- 
pound 4654 

Svrup of Blackberry, Aromatic 4C85 

Syrup of Blood Boot 5602, 5614 

Syrup of Capsicum 4670 

Syrup of Chamomile 4678 

Syrup of Chloride of Iron 4660, 4665 
Svrup of Chloride of Iron and 

'Bark 4662 

Syrup of Chloroform, Com- 
pound 4659 

Svrup of Citric Acid 4680 

Syrup of Ether 4653 

Syrup ofGuaiac 4676 

Svrup of Hemlock, Compound 4681 

Syrup of Horseradish 4688 

Svrup of Horseradish, lodin- 

'ized 4689 

Syrup of Hydrate of Chloral... 4679 
Syrup of Hypophosphites, Com- 
pound 4641, 4643, 4646, &c. 

Syrup of Iodide of Potassium 

ana Iron 4663 

Syrup of Ipecacuanha 4651 

Syrup of Ipecacuanha, Com- 
pound 4682 

Syrup of Lactate of Iron 4661 

Svrup of Lactucarium 4666 

Syrup of Milk 4687 

Syrup of Orange Peel 1382 

Syrup of Pepsine 4684 

Syrup of Phosphate of Iron . . .4632 
Syrup of Phosphate of Iron, 
Compound 4644 



Syrup of Phosphate of Iron and 

Lime 4635 

Syrup of Phosphate of Iron and 

Manganese 4634 

Syrup of Phosphate of Iron and 

Quinine 4628 

Syrup of Phosphate of Iron and 

Strychnine 4630 

Svrup of Phosphate of Iron, 

*Qumine and Strychnine 4629,4648 
Syrup of Phosphate of Lime. . 4636 
Syrup of Phosphate of Manga- 
nese 4633 

Syrup of Phosphate of Quinine 4627 
Syrup of Phosphate of Zinc . . .4626 
Syrup of Queen's Eoot (StiUin- 

gia) 4672 

Syrup of Queen's Root, Com- 
pound 4673 

Syrup of Ehubarb .4638, 4640, 4674 
Syrup ofEhubarband Senna. 4639 
Syrup of Santonate of Soda... 4650 

Syrup of Santonin 4668 

Syrup of Sarsaparilla, Com- 
pound 4655, 4656 

Syrup of Seneka 4658 

Syrup of Sesqui chloride of Iron 4665 
Syrup of Squills, Conapound. . . 4652 

Syrup of Tannate of Iron 4664 

Syrup ofTar 4669 

Syrup ofTolu 4677 

Syrup of Valerianate of Ammo- 
nia 4671 

Syrup of YeUow Dock 4083 

Syrup, Orange 1410 

Syrup, Orange Flower 1417 

Syrup, Orgeat 1376, 1415 

Syrup, Orgeat, Imitation 1416 

Syrup, Osborne's 4657 

Syrup, Pear 1411 

Syrup, Pineapple 1405 

Syrup, Pineapple, Imitation... 1406 

Syrup, Plain 1370 

Syrup, Pulmonary 5600 

Syrup, Punch 1383 

Syrup, Easpberry 1372, 1403 

Syrup, Easpberry, Imitation ..1373 
1403. 

Syrup, Sarsaparilla 1389, &c. 

Syrup, Sherbet 1421 

Syrup, Simple 1370, 1385, 1386 

Syrup, Solferino 1424 

Syrup, Strawberry.. 1374, 1398, &c. 
Syrup, Strawberry, Imitation . 1402 

Syrup, Vanilla 1394, 1395 

Syrup, Vanilla Cream 1432 

Syrup, Wild Cherry 1396, 1397 

Syrup, Wintergreen 1407 

Syrup, Worm 5644 

Svrups, Clarification of Sugar 

'for 1357 

Syrups, Cream, for Soda Water 1425 

Syrups, Degrees of Boiling 1368 

Syrups, Filters for 1358 

Syrups for Cordials and Liquorsl369 
Syrups for Soda Water. . . 1384, &c. 
Syrups, Heat required for Ma- 
king 1361 

Syrups, Medicated 4625, &c. 

Syrups, Preparation of . . .1356, &c. 
Syrups, Proportions of Sugar 

for 1360 

Syrups, Table of Specific Grav- 
ities of 1362 

Syrups, to bleach 1367 

Syrups, to determine the Densi- 
ty of 1363 

Syrups, to preserve 1364 

S\TTips, to prevent, from Candy- 

'ing 1365 

Syrups, to prevent, from Fer- 
menting 1366 

Table Covers, to clean 452 

Table for Graduating Bleaching 

Liquors 1728 

Table for Mixing Oil-colors . . .2762 
Table for Eeducing the Strength 

of Alcohol 60 

Table, Gerlach's, of Soda Solu- 
tions 627 

Table Glass, to make 2345 

Table, Lorme's.of Diluted Lyes 622 



Table Mustard .1784 

Table of Alloys of Copper 3348 

Table of Boiling Heat of Li- 
quids 6, 7, 6133 

Table of Capacity of Cisterns. 6012 
Table of Caustic Potash Lyes. 629 
Table of Caustic Soda Lyes. .. 630 
Table of Chemical Equivalents 

and Symbols 6150, 6151 

Table of Cubical Contents 6003, &c. 
Table of Differences of Time. 6009 
Table of Decimal Approxima- 
tions 6119 

Table of Equivalents of Acids . 81 
Table of Equivalents of Alka- 
lies 80 

Table of Melting Heat of Lead 

and Tin Alloys 3459 

Table of Melting Heat of Met- 
als 6133 

Table of Percentages of Acetic 

Acid 3897 

Table of Percentages of Alcohol 55 

56, 57, 59. 
Table of Percentages of Ether 4286 
Table of Percentages of Muri- 
atic Acid 3886 

Table of Percentages of Mtric 

Acid 3878 

Table of Percentages of Sulphu- 
ric Acid 3859 

Table of Properties of Metals. 3350 

6143. 
Table of Proportions for Ma- 
king Glass 2352 

Table of Specific Gravities of 
Various Areometric Degrees.. 57 
&c., 6155, &c. 
Table of Specific Gravities of 

Syrups 1362 

Table of Spherical Contents ..6001 
Table of Weight and Hardness 

of Gems, &c., 6136 

Table of Weight of Eocks, 

Minerals, &c., 61 34, 6135 

Tables of DecimalEquivalent8 5939 

5979, 5985. 
Tables of Weights and Mea- 
sures 5934, &c. 

Table, Schiffs,ofSodaSolutions628 

Tables, Statistical 6119, &c. 

Tablet Soap, Paris 595 

Taffee, Everton 6283 

Taffee, Molasses 6282 

Taffee. to make 6281 

Talmi Gold 3432 

Tallow 523 

TaUow Candles, to harden 637 

Tallow Candles, to make.. 631, &c. 

Tallow for Candles 635 

Tallow Eesin Soap 540 

Tallow Soap, to make 539, 547 

Tallow, to bleach 1523 

Tallow, to grain 532 

Tallow, to harden 638, &.c., 1523 

Tallow, to harden and whiten. 639 

1523. 
Tallow, to keep, from turning 

Eancid 535 

TaUow, to purify 533 

Tamara, Italian 1761 

Tanks, to render. Watertight .2195 

Tannates 3911 

Tannate of Iron 4170 

Tannate of Iron, Syrup of 4664 

Tannate of Manganese, Oint- 
ment of 4994 

Tannic Acid 391J 

Tannic Acid, to distinguish 

Gallic Acid from 3908 

Tannic Acid, to obtain 3912 

Tannin 3911 

Tannin, Gallic Acid from 3907 

Tannin Ointment 4986 

Tanning, Eeceipts for 642, &c. 

Tansy Water, to distill. . .1071, 1073 

Tape Worm 5649 

Tape Worm, to expel 5432 

Tape Worm, to treat 5650 

Tapestry, to clean 449 

Tapioca Photographic Paper. 3157 
Tar, Inhalation of, for Consump- 
tion 56ia 



602 



TAR — THE 



THE — TIN 



TIN — TIN 



Tar Lotion 4845 

Tar Ointment 4960 

Tar Ointment, Compound. 5288 

Tar Pomade 1281 

Tar, Syrup of 4669 

Tar, Tincture of 4552 

Tar, to remove, from Glass 6422 

Tar, to remove, from the Skin. 6421 

Tar Water 4764 

Taraxacum, Elixir of. . . .4729, 4736 
Taraxacum, see Dandelion. 

Tarragon Mustard 1787 

Tarragon Vinegar 1771 

Tartar Emetic 4129 

Tartar Emetic, Antidotes for. 5900 

Tartar Emetic Ointment 4995 

Tartar, Red 4197 

Tartar, White 4197 

Tartaric Acid 3929 

Tartaric Acid, to detect, in Cit- 
ric Acid 3931 

Tartaric Acid, to obtain 3930 

Tartrates 3929 

Tartrate of Potassa 4196, 4197 

Tartrate of Potassa and Soda 4213 
Tartrate of Soda and Antimony4129 
Tartrate of Soda, Solution of.. 4807 

Tattoo Marks, to remove 5883 

Taylor's Cream Sjrrup. 1427 

Taylor's Remedy for Deafness. 5809 

Tea, Balm 5135 

Tea, Blessed Thistle 5140 

Tea, Boneset 5139 

Tea, Flaxseed 5589 

Tea, German, for the Chest . . .5425 

Tea, Hamburg 5418 

Tea, to flavor 6302 

Tea, to increase the Strength of 6301 

Tea, to test 4374 

Teeth and Gums, to preserve 

the 5866 

Teeth, Amalgams for stopping 3549 
Teeth, Artificial, Pivots for... 3405 
Teeth, Artificial, Springs for.. 3406 
Teeth, Decayed, to deodorize -.5865 
Teeth, Electuaries for the 1305, &c. 

Teeth, Pastes for the 1305, &c. 

Teeth, Powders for Cleaning 

the 1288, &c. 

Teeth, to cleanse the Spaces be- 
tween the 1334 

Teeth, to fill or plug 5882 

Teeth, to remove the TeUow 

Color from the 1296 

Teeth, Washes forthel323,&c.,1335 

Teft's Dental Aneesthetic 5433 

Tempering Steel and Tools 3285, &c. 

Tenacity of Metals 3356, 6143 

Terpine 4312 

Tersulphates, see Sulphates. 
Tersulphides or Tersulphurets, see 

SULPHURETS. 

Test Papers 4408, &c. 

Test Paper, Alkanet 4427 

Test Paper, Brazil- Wood 4409 

Test Paper, Buckthorn 4410 

Test Paper, Cabbage 4426 

Test Paper, Cherry-juice 4411 

Test Paper, DahUa 4412 

Test Paper, Hollyhock Elower 4428 

Test Paper, Indigo 4413 

Test Paper, Iodide of Potassium 

4414 
Test Paper, Iodine and Starch 4415 

Test Paper, Lead 4416 

Test Paper, Litmus, Blue 4417 

Test Paper, Litmus, Red 4418 

Test Paper, Mallow 4419 

Test Paper, Manganese 4420 

Test Paper, Rhubarb 4421 

Test Paper,' Rose 4422 

Test Paper, Starch 4423 

Test Paper, Starch and Iodine 4415 
Test Paper, Sulphate of Iron . .4424 

Test Paper, Turmeric 4425 

Testing, see article to be tested. 
Tests or Reagents ..4372, &c., 4408 

Tetter Ointment 5241 

Tetter, Remedy for 5485, &c. 

Thebaine 4001 

Thee, Brust 5425 

Theine 4010 

Theobromine 4011 



Thermometers 85, (fee. 

Thibault's Balsam 5305 

Thirlault's Glycero-pomade of 

Iodide of Potassium 5373 

Thistles on Gravel Walks, to de- 
stroy 1870 

Thomas' Cathartic Pills 5316 

Thomas' Colocynth and Man- 
drake Pills 5190 

Thompson's Bitters 5129 

Thompson's Composition Pow- 
der 5178 

Thompson's Hot Drops 5179 

Thompson's If umber Sis 5177 

Thorn Apple, Eluid Extract of 4574 
Thorn Apple, Tincture of 4499,4565 
Thousand Elowers, Balm of . . .1327 

Thread Lace, to clean 473 

Thread Marble for Book Edges 3114 
Thrips on Cucumber Plants, to 

kill 1858 

Thwaite's Antiseptic Fluid 1659 

Tick, Bed, to clean 468 

Timber, Feet of Inch Board in 6006 

Timber, Round, Content of 6003 

Timber, Statistics of 6138 

Timber, to protect, from Dry 

Rot 1679 

Time, Ancient Jewish Division 

of 6070 

Time, Measure of 6007 

Time, ISTautical Division of 6011 

Time, Roman Division of 6064 

Time, Table of Dijfferences of. 6009 

Tin 3314 

Tin, Acid Preparations of 107 

Tin, AUoys of 3421, 3426 

Tin, AUoys of, for Dentists 3435 

Tin, AUoys of. Melting Heat of 3459 
Tin Amalgam 3542, 3544, 3549, 3552 
Tin Castings, Bronzing Liquid 

for 3790 

Tin, Chlorides of 4123 

Tin, CrystaUized 3320 

Tin, Feathered 107, 3319 

Tin, Flux for Soldering.. 3476, 3482 

Tin, Frosted 3321 

Tin, Grain 3316 

Tin in Tears 3316 

Tin, Ink for Writing on 6365 

Tin, Lacquer for 3057 

Tin, Muriates of 4123 

Tin, Mtrate of 4121 

Tin, Oxides of 4119, &c. 

Tin Pipes, Flux for Soldering. 3531 

Tin, Powdered 3317 

Tin Putty 4122 

Tin, Solder for 3479, 3499 

Tin Spirits for Dyeing 107 

Tin, Tests for Pure 3315 

Tin, Tests for the Salts of 4125 

Tin, to coat Copper and Brass 

with 3644, &c. 

Tin, to coat Iron with 3638, &c. 

Tin, to electro-gild on 3731 

Tin, to electro-plate with 3750 

Tin, to separate, from Copper .3244 

Tin Tree, to make a 3322 

Tin Vessels, to clean 3252 

Tincture, Acid Aromatic 4731 

Tincture, Antacrid 5444 

Tincture, Antispasmodic 5270 

Tincture, Cholera 5674 

Tincture, Diarrhoea 5654 

Tincture, Dover's 4543 

Tincture, Febrifuge 5195 

Tincture, Golden 5251 

Tincture, IsTervous 5574 

Tincture of Aconite Leaves . . .4481 

Tincture of Aconite Root 4482 

Tincture of Aloes. 4537 

Tincture of Aloes and Myrrh.. 4538 

Tincture of Ambergris 963, 1024 

Tincture of Arnica 4483 

Tincture of Arnica Flowers. . .4509 

Tincture of Assafcetida 4480 

Tincture of Balm of GUead 4535 

Tincture of Balsam of Peru 1020 

Tincture of Balsam of Tolu 1022 

Tincture of Belladonna 4484 

Tincture of Benzoin 1019 

Tincture of Benzoin, Compound4567 
Tincture of Black Cohosh 4514 



Tincture of Black Pepper, Com- 
pound 4495 

Tincture of Bloodroot 4524 

Tincture of Blue Flag 4518 

Tincture of Camphor 4611 

Tincture of Cantharides 4539 

Tincture of Capsicum 4486 

Tincture of Cardamom. . .1023, 4540 
Tincture of Cardamom, Com- 
pound 4568 

Tincture of Castor 4541 

Tincture of Catechu 4547 

Tincture of Chiretta 4516 

Tincture of Chloride of Iron. . .4504 
Tincture of Cimicifuga Racemo- 

sa 4514 

Tincture of Cinchona 4487 

Tincture of Cinchona, Compound 

4488. 
Tincture of Cinchona, Sweet ..4544 

Tincture of Cinnamon 4548 

Tincture of Colchicum 4549 

Tincture of Colocynth 4554 

Tincture of Columbo 4550 

Tincture of Conium 4489 

Tincture of Coriander 1014 

Tincture of Cubebs 4551 

Tincture of Dewberry, Com- 
pound 4497 

Tincture of Digitalis 4490 

TiUcture of Dog- wood 4553 

Tincture of Ergot 4517 

Tincture of Gelseminum 4493 

Tincture of Gentian,Compound4569 

Tincture of Ginger 4558 

Tincture of Gram of Paradise. 1021 

Tincture of Guaiac 4505, 5441 

Tincture of HeUebore,American 

4496, 4515. 
Tincture of HeUebore, Black ..4506 

Tincture of Hemlock 4489 

Tincture of Hemp 4485 

Tincture of Henbane 4511 

Tincture of Hops 4510 

Tincture of Iodine 4491 

Tincture of Iodine, Compound 4570 

Tincture of Jalap 4559 

Tincture of Kino 4512, 4556 

Tincture of Kino, Compound ..4502 

4557. 
Tincture of Leopard's Bane . . .4509 

Tincture of Lobelia 4513 

Tincture of Lupulin 4519 

Tincture of Mandrake 4507 

Tincture of Monesia 4500 

Tincture of Musk 1025 

Tincture of Myrrh 4560 

Tincture of I^I^ut GaU. 4561 

Tincture of Nutmeg 1015 

Tincture of Nux Vomica 4520 

Tincture of Opium 4529 

Tincture of Opium, Ammonia- 
ted 4530 

Tincture of Opium, Camphora- 
ted 4527 

Tincture of Opium, Compound -4531 
Tincture of PeUitory, Compoimd 

4532. 
Tincture of PeUitory, Ethereo- 

alcoholic 4533 

Tincture of Podophyllin 4507 

Tincture of Prickly-ash Berries 4536 

Tincture of Quassia. 4562 

Tincture of Queen's Root 4508 

Tincture of Rhatany 4563 

Tincture of Rhubarb 4522 

Tincture of Rhubarb, Alkaline 5356 
Tincture of Rhubarb and Senna 4523 
Tincture of Rhubarb, Aqueous 4546 
Tiucture of Rhubarb, Sweet. . . 4545 
Tincture of St. John's Wort. . .4501 

Tincture of Sanguinaria 4524 

Tincture of Serpentaria 4525 

Tinctiu-e of Skunk-cabbage . . .4498 
Tincture of Snake-root, Black . 4514 
Tincture of Snake-root, Virginia 

4525. 
Tincture of Soap,Camphorated4503 

Tincture of Spices 1765 

Tincture of SquiU 4564 

Tincture of SquiU and Benzoin 4555 

Tincture of StiUingia 4508 

Tincture of Storax or Styrax . .1016 



TIN— TEA 



TRA — TUR 



TUR — ^VAR 



603 



Tincture of StramoniTun .4499, 4565 

Tincture of Tar 4552 

Tincture of Tobacco 4521 

Tincture of Tolu 4566 

Tincture of Turkey Corn 4492 

Tincture of Valerian 4526, 4542 

Tincture of Vanilla 1018 

Tincture of Veratrum Viride..4496 

4515. 
Tincture of Yellow Jasmine. . .4493 

Tincture, Tonic 5126 

Tincture, Universal 4494 

Tinctures 35 

Tinctures, Ammoniated 35 

Tinctures by Diji^estion 40 

Tinctures by Infusion 36 

Tinctures by ^laceration 39 

Tinctures by Percolation or 

Displacement 41 

Tinctures, Filter for 17 

Tinctures, Medicinal 4479, &c. 

Tinctures, Proportions of Ingre- 
dients for 42 

Tinctures, to prepare 35 

Tingrr's Essence Varnish 2915 

Tinning, Cold 3643 

Tinning, Directions for... 3638, <fec. 

Tinning, Metal for 3453 

Tissue.^Electric 6320 

Tobacco, Empvreumatic Oilofl465 

Tobacco, Oil ot' 4752 

Tobacco Ointment.. 4961, 5290, &c. 

Tobacco, Tincture of 4521 

Tobacco, to fumigate Plants 

■with 1852 

Tobacco, to scent 1350 

Toddy 1435 

Toe j^ails. Ingrowing 5827 

Toe Xails, Ingrowing, to cure - 5828 
Toe Nails, Ingrowing, to pre- 
vent 5829 

Toilet Soap, Receiptsfor553,&c.,601 

Toilet Soap, to perfume 555 

Tola, Balsam of, Factitious 5102 

Tolu, Balsam of, Test for 5103 

Tolu, Syrup of 4677 

Tolu, Tincture of 4566 

Tomato Catsup 1768 

Tomato Pickles 1803 

Tombac, Red 3442 

Tombac, TVhite 3443 

Tomb Stones, Ink for 2516 

Tonics 5117 

Tonic after Drinking to excess 5818 

Tonic Elixir 5118, 5407 

Tonic, Hair 1180 

Tonic Infusion 5120 

Tonic Mixture 5123 

Tonic Mixture, Aromatic 5124 

Tonic, Orange 5122 

Tonic PiUs 5125, 5166, 5216 

Tonic Tincture 5126 

Tonquin Oil 1246 

Tonquin Pomade 1246 

Tools, Edge, Caution in grind- 
ing 6253 

Tools, Edge, to grind 6252 

Tools, Edge, to make, of Steel 

and Iron 3280 

Tools, Edge, to sharpen 6251 

Tools, Emery Wheels for grind- 
ing 6268 

Tools, to temper 3285, &c. 

Tooth Ache, Remedies for 5867, &c. 

Tooth Cements 5878, <fcc. 

Tooth Pastes 1305, <fcc. 

Tooth Powders 1288, <fcc. 

Tooth, to kill the Nerve of a. . .5877 

Tooth Washes 1323, &c. 

Topaz, Imitation 2354, 2434 

Tortoiseshell, Imitation 2016 

Tortoiseshe'l, to join 2018 

Tortoiseshell, to polish 2019 

Touch Paper for Fireworks . . 2059 
Touch Stones for assaying Gold 31 90 

Toy Varnish, White 2916 

Tracing Paper 1927, &c. 

Tragacanth, Mucilage of 2310 

Tralles' and Gendar's Hydrome- 
ters Compared 58 

Tralles' Hvdrometer 54 

Tralles' Table of Percentages 
of Alcohol 59 



Transfer Paper 1926 

Transfer Varnish 2919 

Transparent Cement 2236, 2252 

Transparent Colored Vamishes2941 

Transparent Enamels 2392 

Transparent Paper 1929 

Transparent Pomade 1273 

Transparent Soap 569 

Trap to catch Fleas 1915 

Trap to catch Muskrats 1896 

Trap to catch Rats 1894 

Trapezoids, Area of 5991 

Traumatic Elixir 5419 

Traumatieine 5502 

Trays, Old, to japan 3037 

Tree Marble for Book-covers . .3117 
Trees, Blight on.to remedy 1844,1846 

Trees, Clay for Grafting 1882 

Trees, Gamming in, to cure... 1873 

Trees, Large, to transplant 1890 

Trees, Mildew on, to prevent.. 1849 

Trees, Moss on, to destroy 1860 

Trees, to keep Cattle from 1855 

Trees, to prevent Ants from in- 
juring 1847 

Trees, Wall, Nails for 1885 

Trees, Wax for Grafting 1880 

Trees, Wounds in, to heal 1879 

Triangles, Area of 5990 

Tricopherous 1250 

Triplex PiUs 5184 

Trituration 31 

Trommer's Test for Sugar in 

Urine 4396 

Tronchin's Cough Svrup 5465 

Troth's Cholera Mixture 5669 

Trotter Oil 1513 

Trotter Oil, to refine 1514 

Trotter Oil, to test 1498 

Trough, Pneumatic 4031 

Troughs, Acid, Cement for Coat- 
ing 2232 

Troughs, Galvanic, Cement for 2170 
Trousseau's Martial Aerated 

Water 4475 

Troy Weight 5942 

Troy Weight Compared with 

Apothecaries 5945 

Troy Weight Compared with 

Avoirdupois 5944, 5950 

Troy Weight Compared with 

Metrical 5946 

Tuberose, Essence of 954 

Tuberose Pomade 1263 

Tuberose Roots, to dry .1889 

Tuberose Roots, to preserve ..1888 

Tubes, Glass, to bend 3851 

Tubing, Rubber, to make. Gas- 
tight 4033 

Tulip Roots, to preserve 1888 

Tumors, to remove 5769 

Tuna-states 4212 

Tungstate of Soda 4212 

Timffstic Acid 4212 

Tungstic Glue 2281 

Turkey Corn, Tincture of 4492 

Turkey Red, French Process for 

Dyeing 189 

Turkish Monev 6106 

Turkish Weights, &c 6107, <kc. 

Turlington's Balsam 5304 

Tm-nbidl's Prussian Blue 2674 

Turner's Cement 2228 

Turner's Cerate 5289 

Turners' Work, to polish 3009 

Turning. Brass for 3372 

Turning Metals, Petroleum for 3449 
Turaips, Artificial Manure for. 1827 

Turnips, to preserve 1888 

Turpentine 4316 

Turpentine, Balsam of 5099 

Tm-pentine, Bleaching by 510 

Turpentine Lotion 5401 

Tui-pentine, Oil or Spirit of 4317 

Turpentine Ointment, Venice. 4958 

Turpentine Soap 613 

Turpentine, to purify 4319 

Turpentine Varnish 2909 

Turpentine, Venice 4318 

Turpentine, Venice, to remove, 

from Glass 6422 

Turpentine, Venice, to remove, 
from the Skin 6421 



Turquois, Imitation 2435 

Tutenag 3452 

Tutty Powder 4113 

Twaddells Areometer or Hy- 
drometer 68, 6164 

Tweed Cloaks, to waterproof .1554 
Twelvetree's Washing Flujd.. 479 

Type Metal 3419 

Type Metal, to electroplate on 3711 
Typhoid Fever, Remedy for . . .5747 

Ulcers, Clay Dressing for 5511 

Ulcers, Foul, to deodorize 5506 

Ulcers from Cyanide of Potas- 
sium, to cure 5918 

Ulcers in the Leg.Treatmentof 5510 
Ulcers in the Mouth, Wash for 5509 

Ulcers, Remedy for 5507 

Ulcers, Treatment of 5505, 5506 

Unbleached Muslin, to bleach. 509 
Underwood's Manifold Copying 

Process 1949 

Universal Calender 6147 

Universal Cement 2175 

Universal Composts for the Soil 1823 

Universal Plaster 5277 

Universal Tincture 4494 

Universal Wound Balsam 5096 

Upton's Gold Detergent 3598 

■[jj.gjj^ 4323 

Urea, Nitrate of.' .' .' ." .' .' .' .'.4323, 4324 

Ure's Diamond Cement 2154 

Ure's Ink 2472 

Ure's Table of Copper Alloys. .3348 
Ure's Table of Percentage of 

Muriatic Acid 3886 

Ure's Table of Percentage of 

Nitric Acid 3878 

Ure's Test for the Strength of 

Acetic Acid 76, 77 

Urethra, to apply Caustic to the 5737 
Urinating, Difficulty in, to rem- 
edy 5740 

Urine, Incontinence of, to cure 5743 

Urine, Test for Bile in 4398 

Urine, Test for Sugar in. 4396, 4397 

Urns, to clean 408 

Utensils for Brewing 857 

Utensils for Brewing, to clean 

<fec 6333 

Utensils for Leaf-gilding 3557 

Utensils for Paper-hanging . . .2812 
Uva Ursi, Fluid Extract of . . .4577 
Uvanterin Brown Dye for Cot- 
tons 145 

Valerian and Carbonate of Am- 
monia, Mixture of 5575 

Valerian, Essential Oil of 1465 

Valerian, Fluid Extract of 4574 

Valerian, Tincture of 4o26, 4542 

Valerian Water,to distill 1071, 1073 

Valerianates .4305 

Valerianate of Ammonia, Elix- 
ir of 4728, 4732, &c. 

Valerianate of Ammonia, Solu- 
tion of 5390 

Valerianate of Ammonia, Syrup 

of 4671 

Valerianate of Amyl 4303 

Valerianate of Ethyl 4300 

Valerianic Acid 4305 

Valuable Liniment 4866 

Valuable Lotion for Wounds . .4853 
Vanilla Beans.to grind 25, 965, 6279 
Vanilla and Almond Chocolate 6278 

Vanilla Cream Syrap 1432 

Vanilla, Essence of 965 

Vanilla, Extract of 1042 

Vanilla Flavoring for Xiquors 668 

Vanilla, Fluid Extract of 4607 

Vanilla Oil 1247 

Vanilla, Oil of 1239 

Vanilla Pomade. . . .1247, 1262, 1271 
Vanilla Powder for Sachets, 

&.C 1105 

Vanilla Svrup for Soda Water 1394 

Vanilla, Tincture of 1018 

Vanilla Tooth Paste 1309 

Vanilla Water, to distill 1071, 1073 
1078. 

Vanille, Pastilles a la 1344 

Varnish, Amalgam, for Casts. .3548 



604: 



VAR — VEG 



TEG — YIN 



TIO — WAS 



Varnish, Amber Oil 

Varnish, Amber Spirit, ..2930, &c. 

Varnish, Aniline Black 2943 

Varnish, Aniline Colored 2942 

Varnish, Bookbinders' 2933 

Varnish, Cabinet 2893 

Varnistt, Canada 2921 

Famish. Carriage 2877, &c 



&c. I Vegetable Juices, to filter 3834 

Vegetable Juices, to obtaia 45 

Vegetable Liquids, to decolor- 
ize 1751 

Vegetable OUs, to bleach -1504, &c. 
Vegetable Oils, to purify, for 

Lamps 1494 

Vegetable Stains, to remove. . . 360 



Varnish, Chinese, Imitation. ..2923 I Vegetable Substances, to silver 3626 



Varaish, CoUodion 2922 

Varnish, Colored Oil 2901 

Varnish, Colored Spirit 2942 

Varnish, Copal Oil 2876 

Varnish. Coi)al Spirit 2905, &c. 

Varnish, Crystal Spirit 2910 

Varnish, Dextrine 2927 

Varnish, Etching 2959, &c. 

Varnish. Flexible Spirit'.. 2948, &c. 

Varnish. Flexible Oil 2890, 2891 

Varnish for Boots and Shoes.. 2957 

2966. 
Varnish for Card Ornaments. .2939 

2965. 
Varnish for Casks, Inside of. .2970 
Varnish for Engravings, <tc., .2944 

2964. 
Varnish for fastening Leather 

on Rollers 2958 

Varnish for fixing Drawings 2924 

Varnish for Grates 2902 

VarnLsh for Gun -barrels 2954 

Varnish for Harness 2967 

Varnish for Hot-bed Frames. .2898 
Varnish for Iron Work.. 2900, 2956 

Varnish for Leather 2967, Sec. 

Varnish for Metallic Paint . . . 2894 
Varnish for Paintings.. 2911, 2914 
Varnish for Paper-hangings ..2938 
Varnish for Photographs 2932, 3153 

3161. 

Varnish for Printers' Ink 2897 

Varnish for Waterproof Goods2885 
Varnish, Green Transparent ..2941 

Varnish, Gutta-percha 2888 

Varnish, Hair 2892 

Varnish, India-rubber Oil 2866, &c. 

2889, &c. 
Varnish, India-rubber Spirit ..2948 

Varnisli, Italian 2896 

Varnish, Lac Water 2940 

Varnish, Mahogany 2895 

Varnish, Map '. 2920 

Varnish. Mastich 2911, &c. 

Varnish, Metallic 2953 

Varnish, Sealing W'as 3044 

Varnish Stains, to remove 339 

Varnish, Submarine 2955 

Varnish, to, Dravrings,Paper,<fcc., 

2965. 

Varnish, to, Furniture 2972, .tc. 

Varnish to Imitate Ground 

Glass 6408 

Varnish, to remove, from Paint- 
ings 405 

Varnish, Transfer or Mordant- 2919 

2928. 
Varnish, Transparent Colorless 2935 
Varnish, Transparent Colored. 2942 

Varnish, Turpentine Spirit 2909 

Varnish, Wax 2936 

Varnish. White Spirit 2916, &c. 

Varnished Paint, to clean 436 



Vegetables, to can 1636 

Veils, Black Lace, to -wash 466 

Veils, White Lace, to clean . . . 471 
Vellum, see Parchment. 

Velpeau's Black Caustic 5330 

Velpeaus Diarrhoea Kemedy..5653 
Velpeau's Erysipelas Lotion. . . 5427 

Velvet, to raise the Pile on 4P3 

Velvet, to remove Grease from 351 
355. 

Veneers, Ivory, to glue on 2297 

Veneers, Old, to raise 6220 

Veneers, to dye 2837, &e. 

Venetian Red 2704 

Venice Turpentine 4318 

Venice Turpentine Ointment.. 4958 
Venice Turpentine, to remove, 

from Glass 6422 

Venice Turpentine, to remove, 

from the Skin 6421 

Venus, Pomade de 1164 

Veratrine or Veratria 4007 

Veratrine. Acid Solution of ...5313 

Veratrine Lotion 5406 

Veratrum Viride, FMd Ex- 
tract of 4575 

Veratrum Viride, Tincture of . 4496 
4515. 

Verdigris 3240 

Verdigris. Antidote for 5904 

Vermifuges 5245,5426,5428,5432,5643 

Vermifuge Pills 5648 

Vermilion, to make 2681 

Vermilion, to preserve 2682 

Vermin in Children's Heads, to 

destroy 1919 

Vermin Ointment 5395 

Vermin on the Body, to destroy 1920 
Vermin, Phosphorous Paste for 1899 
Vermin, to exterminate... 1892, (fee. 
Vessels containing Kerosene, 

to clean 1537 

Vessels. Wooden, to remove 

the Taste of 6201 

Vessels, Iron, to tin 3633 

Vesuvine .Aniline Dye 1.2594 ; 

Vichy Salts 44.58 i 

Vichy Water, Aerated 4455 I 

Vinaigre Aromatique 1087 | 

Vinaigre de Quatre Voleurs. . .5193 j 
Vinegar, Acetified Shavings for j 

Making ] 736 j 

Vinegar, Alcohol, to improve.. 1743 

Vinegar, Aromatic 1GS3, Sec. 

Vinegar, Artus' Process for . . . 1742 
Vinegar, Black, for Bookbind- 
ers 3118 

Vinegar by the Quick Method 1733 

Vinegar, I)istilled 1746 

Vinegar for Sauces 1771, (fee. 

Vinegar from Alcohol 1741 

Vinegar from Cider 1 740 

Vinegar from Sugar 1747 | 

Vinegar, General Directions for 



Varnished Surfaces, to polish .2976 

Varnishers' Amalgam. 2953 ! making 1732, &c. 

Varnishes 2867, <fcc. I Vinegar Generator, to make a 1734 

Varnishes, Boiled Oil for 2872 j Vinegar, Hints for making IT.iS 



Varnishes, Oil 2874, <fce. 

Varnishes, Oil, Cautions in ma- 
king 2873 

Varnishes, Spirit 2903, <fcc. 

Varnishes, to clarify Oil for 2869 

Varnishes, to prepare Linseed 

Oil for 2868 

Varnishing 2971 

Varnishing, Brushes for 2977 

Varnishing, to siae Paper for. .1951 

Vat, Blue, to make up a 119 

Vegetable Antibilious Pills 4907 

Vegetable Caustic 5075, 5825 

Vegetable Cement 2223 

Vegetable Fibre, to detect, in 

Mixed Fabrics 294 

Vegetable Infusions, to filter.. 3835 



Vinegar, Marseilles 5198 , 

Vinegar of Cantharides 1178 ' 

Vinegar Poultice 5037 

Vinegar, Raspberry 1779, Sec. 

Vinegar. Spiced, for Pickles.. .1791 

Vinegar, Tests for 1 748 

Vinegar, Thieves' 5] 98 

Vinegar, to decolorize 1 751 

Vinegar, to find the Strength of 

1750 
Vinegar, to keep up a supply of 1744 
Vinegar, to make in Three Weeks, 
1745. 

j Vinegar, to make quickly 17.39 

I Vinegar. Weak, to strengthen. 1749 
i Vines, Bleeding in. to remedy. 1878 
, Vinous Fermentation " . . 16 



Violet Aniline Dyes 2601 

Violet Cement 2191 

Violet Coloring for Brass 3385 

Violet Coloring for Bronze 3784 

Violet Dye for Cottons 1 90 

Violet Dve for Ivory 1992 

Violet Dye for Silks 253, 262 

Violet Dye for Woolens 21 1, 316 

Violet Enamel 2393 

Violet Fire 2C.94 

Violet Glazing 2408 

Violet Ink 2497 

Violet Mouth Wash 1U25 

Violet Pomade 1263 

Violet Powder 1100 

Violet SUk. Acid-stained, to 

restore the color of 6334 

Violet Tooth-paste 1312 

Violet Tooth-powder 1300 

Violets, Essence of 949 

Violets. Honey of 4696 

Virginal, Lait .1138 

Viscous Fermentation 16 

Vitriol, Blue 120, ^096 

Viti-iol. Elixir of 4731, 4740 

Vitriol, Green 4146 

Vitriol, Oil of 3855 

Vitriol, Roman 120 

Vitriol, White 4114 

Vogels Method of purifying 

Honey 1568 

Voice, Loss of, Cure for 5617 

Volatile Liniment 4881 

Volatile Oils, see Essential Oils. 

Voltaic Pile, to construct a 6357 

Vomiting duiing Pregnancy, 

Cure for 5721 

Vomiting, Remedy for 5781 

Von Vetter's Process for Pre- 
serving Specimens 1675 

Vulcanite, Substitute for 2281 

Wafers. Gelatine 4369 

Wagner's Glue of Casein e 2295 

Wahoo Beer 898 

Walks, Asphalt for.. 2207, &c., 6354 
Walks, Gravel, See Gravel 

Walks. 

Walker's Jesuits' Drops 53.38 

Wall Paper, to apply, See PArEK 

Hanging. 

Wall Paper, to clean 409 

Wall Paper, to prepare, for 

Hanging 2813 

Wall Paper, to remove Grease 

from 410 

Wall Trees, Xails for 1885 

Wallace's Pills 5279 

WaU.s, Cement for Inside 2171 

Walls, Cement for Outside 2173 

Walls. Fine Whitewash for 2795 

AValls. Kalsomine for 2794 

Walls, Smoked, to whitewash 2806 
Walls, to paper, see Paper Hang- 
ing. 
Walls, to render. Watertight. . 6377 
W'alls, Wliitewashed, to paj)er.28()8 
Walnut, Black, to deaden.... 30.8 

Walnut, Black, to imitate 2856 

Walnut Catsup 1770 

Walnut Furniture, to varnish. .2972 

2974. 

Wahiut Hair-dye 1199 

Wahmt Pickle 1798 

Walnut Wood, to prepare, for 

Varnishing 2972 

Walter's Indian Vegetable Pills 5186 
Wards Essence for Headache 5229 

Ward's Tooth Paste 1306 

Warts, Powder for 5825 

Warts, to remove 5824 

Wash for Dry Stubborn Hair .1186 
Wash for Fa'iling Hair and 

Baldness... 1177, &c. 

Wash for Freckles. 1122, 1158, 1161 

Wash for Shaviner - 1 161 

Wash for the Moiith and Teeth 1323 
Wash to cleanse the Hair 1187.&C. 
Wash to darken the Hair 1183. &c. 

1215, &c. 

Wash, to, in Salt Water 484 

Wash to protect Trees from 

Cattle 1855 



WAS— WAT 



WAX — WEI 



WEI — AVHI 



605 



"Wasning 465, &c. 

Washing, Chemical 32, 3841 

Washing Fluid 479, 481, 63UG 

Washing Made Easy 482 

Washing Mixture 480 

Washing Soap 522, 598 

Washing, White Lye for 483 

Wasp Stings, to cure 5927 

Watch Hands, to make, Red..3l9G 
Watch Movements, to frost . . .3381 

AVatchmakers' Oil 1549, &c. 

Water, Barley 47G7 

Water Bath 5 

Water, Bitter Almond 4755 

Water Brash, to cure 5<i91 

Water, Camphor.. .4611, 4754, 4766 

Water Cement 2165 i 

Water, Cinnamon 4756 

Water, Cologne 976, &c. 

Water, Cologne, Aramoniated 1096 
Water, Cologne. Concentrated 950 
Water Colors, Improved Vehi- 
cle for 2725 

Water, DistiUed 4768 

Water, Fennel 4757 

Water, Florida 1011, &c. 

Water Gilding 3584 

Water Glass 2816, &c. 

Water Glass Solvent for Coral- 
line 2587 

Water, Honey 1007 

Water, Honey, Imitation 1006 

Water, how to see Under 6192 

Water, Hungary 996 

Water, Impure, to purify 1701, 1710, 
1712, 6359. 

Water Lac Varnish 2940 

Water, Lavender 989, &c. 

Water, Lavender, Ammoniac all 098 

Water Lily Eoots, to dry 1889 

Water, Lime 4760 

Water, Lime, for Dyeing 103 

Water, Lobelia 4761 

Water, Millefleur 1005 

Water of Life 5448 

Water, Orange Flower 1009 

Water, Peppermint 4758 

Water, Rose 1008, 1079 

Water Size for Gilding 3572 

Water, Spearmint 4759 

Water, Statistics of 6120 

Water, Tar 4764 

AVater Pipes, to manage, in 

Winter 6223 

Water Pipes, to protect the In- 
side Lining of 6224 

Water, to prevent, from putrefy- 
ing 1650 

Water, to test the Hardness of 4388 

Water, Vanilla 1078 

Waterproof Blacking for Har- 
ness 3082, &.C. 

Waterproof Canvas 1561 

Waterproof Cements 2174, 2179 

Waterproof Cloth 155:3 

Waterproof Covering for 

Wounds 5502 

Waterproof Felting 1556 

Waterproof French Polish 3004 

Waterproof Goods, Oil Varnish 

for 2885 

Waterproof Paper 1941, 1944 

Waterproof Starch 631 

Waterproof, to render Boots ..3069 
Waterproofing, Directions for. 1552 
&c., 6313. 

Waters, Medicated 4753 

Waters, Perfumed by Distilla- 
tion 1070, &c. 

Waters, Perfumed, Directions 

for Distilling 1073 

Waters, Perfumed, from Essen- 
ces 1082 

Waters. Perfumed, from Essen- 
tial Oils 1080, 1081 

Waters, Perfumed, Practical 

Suggestions for 1076 

Waters, Perfumed, Proportions 

of Aroraatics for 1071 

Waters, Perfumed, Soubeiran's 

Apparatus for 1077 

Waters, Perfumed, to prevent, 
from Souring 1075 



Waters, Perfumed, to remoye 

the Burnt Smell from 1074 

Wax, Bees' 1577 

Wax for Grafting 1880 

AVax for Polishing Floors 1591 

Wax for Sealing Bottles 929 

Wax, Imitation 1588, &c. 

Wax, Modeling 1590 

Wax, Sealing, see Seaung Wax. 

Wax, to bleach 1578, &c. 

Wax, to color 1586 

Wax, to, Furniture 2992 

Wax, to detect Japanese Wax 

in 1583 

Wa.K, to detect Spermaceti in. 1582 

Wax, to refine 1584, 1585 

Wax 1o test the purity of 1582, &c. 
Wax Marble for Book-covers 3109 

Wax, Milk of 2936 

Wax Moulds, to coat, forElec- 

trotyping 3689 

Wax Moulds, to make ...3674, &c. 
Wax Moulds, to make, of the 

Face 3682 

Wax Paper 1938 

Wax Paper for Photography. .3179 
Wax Putty for Leaky Casks. . 696 
Wax Stains on Cloth.to remove 342 
Wax Stains on Silk, to remove 341 
Wax Varnish for Furniture. . .2937 
Wax Varnish for Paintings. . .2936 
Weather Boards, old. Paint for 2t71 

Weavers' Knot, to tie a 6261 

Wedels Elixir 4555 

Wedgwood Mortars, to cleanse 6346 
Weeds on Gravel Walks, to de- 
stroy 1870, 1875 

Weeds on Gravel Walks, to 

prevent 1869 

Weight and Hardness of Gems 6136 

Weight, Apothecaries 5951 

Weight, Apothecaries, Com- 
pared with Apothecaries Mea- 
sure 5954 

Weight, Apothecaries. Com- 
pared with Avoirdupois 5952 

Weight, Apothecaries, Com- 
pared with Grams 5955 

Weight. Apothecaries, Com- 
pared -nith Troy 5953 

Weight, Assay ers' Gold 5948 

Weight, Assay ers' Silver 5949 

Weight, Avoirdupois 5935 

Weight, Avoirdupois, Com- 
pared with Apothecaries Mea- 
sure 5937 

Weight, Avoirdupois, Com- 
pared with Apothecaries' 

Weight 5938 

Weight, Avoirdupois, Com- 
pared with Graras 5941 

Weight, Avoirdupois, Com- 
pared with Troy 5936 

Weight, Diamond 5943 

Weight, French Binary 6046 

Weight, French Binary, Com- 
pared with Apothecaries 6048 

Weight, French Binary, Com- 
pared with Avoirdupois 6047 

Weight, French Binary, Com. 

pared with Grams 6050 

Weight, Fi-ench Binary, Com- 
pared with Troy 6049 

Weight, Loss of, in Substances 

by Drving 6149 

Weight, 'Metrical 6027, 6052 

Weight, Metrical. Compared 

with Apothecaries 6030 

Weight, Metrical, Compared 

with Avoirdupois 6028 

Weight. Metrical, Compared 

with Troy 6029 

Weight of a Barrel of Various 

Articles 5973 

Weight of a Bushel of Various 

Articles 5974 

Weight of Copper, Sheet and 

Plate 6139 

Weiffht of Earth, Hocks, &c.. .6134 
Weight of Fluids and Gases ..6138 
Weight of Hempor Wire Rope 6137 
Weitrht of Iron Bars and Rails 6145 
Weight of Iron, Boiler 61 42 



Weight of Iron Shafting 6144 

Weight of Iron Sheet 6141 

Weight of Iron Plates, Cast. . .6140 

Weight of Lead 6139 

Weight of Live Cattle 6127 

Weight of Metals 6143 

Weight of Nails 6146 

Weight of Steel Bars 61 45 

Weight of Timber 6138 

Weight of Various Minerals, (fee, 

6135, t)138. 
Weight, Percentage of Pork in 

Live 6129 

Weight, Troy 5942 

Weight, Troy, Compared with 

Apothecaries : 5945 

Weight, Troy, Compared with 

Avoirdupois 5944 

Weight. Troy, Compared with 

Grams 5946, 5947 

Weight, Troy, to convert, into 

Avoirdupois 5950 

Weights and Measures. . . 5934, &c. 
Weights and Measures, Aus- 
trian 6075, &c. 

Weights andMeasures,Chinese6110 
Weights and Measures.Deci- 

mal, see Metrical. 
Weights and Measures, Dutch 6090 
Weights and Measures, Eng- 
lish 6031, &c. 

Weights and Measures, Foreign, 

Various 6054, &.H. 

Weights and Measures, Foreign, 

Compared with American . . 6055 
Weights and Measures, French 6045 
Weights and Measures, Metri- 
cal 6014, &c. 

Weights and Measures, Nether- 
lands 6084, &c, 

Weights and Measures, Prus- 
sian 6080, &c. 

Weights and Measures, Roman 6061 
Weights and Measures, Rus . 

sian 6071, &c. 

Weights and Measures, Scrip- 
tural 6065, &c. 

Weights and Measures, Span- 
ish 6091 

Weights and Measures, Swed- 
ish 6096 

Weights and Measures, Swiss .6101 
Weights and Measures, Turk- 
ish 6106 

WeU's Copper Coating for Iron 3637 

Weld Yellow Dye for Silks 265 

Welding 3250, 3472, &c. 

Welding, Fluxes for 3531 

Welding Powders 3523, &c. 

Wells, to examine 6410 

Wenderoth's Photographic Var- 
nish 3161 

Wernicke's Method of Gilding 

on Glass 3596 

Whale Oil, Putrid, to deodorize 1488 
Whale Oil Soap for destroying 

Insects 580 

Wheat, Artificial Manure for.. 1827 

Wheeler's Nursing Syrup 5308 

Wheelers Worm Confection. . .5309 
Whetstones, See Hones. 

Whiskey i435 

Whiskey, Bourbon, Imitation. . . 683 
Whiskey, Cheap, to im prove ... 6293 

Whiskey, Distillation of 931 

Whiskey, Flavorings for.. 664, &c., 
6294. 

Whiskey, Irish, Imitation 690 

Whiskey Punch 920 

Whiskey, Rye, Imitation.. 688, &c. 

Whiskey, Scotch. Imitation 691 

Whiskey, to deodorize 1446 

Whiskey, to free, from Fusel 

Oil 1446 

Whiskev, to give a Smoky 

Flavor to 692 

Whiskey, to improve, by Elec- 
tricity 726, 6295 

Whiskey, Mash for, to prepare 936 
Whiskev, Teast for, to prepare, 932; 

934. 
White Ajsenic, see AitsENioos 
Acid. 



606 



WHI— WIN 



WIN— WOO 



WOO — TEA 



TVTiite Cabbage Pickle 1799 

White Cemeut 2192 

Wbite Copper 3414, 3415 

White Currant Wine 728 

White Dye, French, for Silks.. 203 

White Enamel 2396 

White Enamel for Iron- Ware. 2403 

White Eire 2096, 2104, 2107 

While EoU for Imitation Gems, 

2448. 
White, French, for the Skin... 1108 

White Frontignac Wine 641S 

AVliite Glazing 2405 

AYhite Jean Boots, to clean... 453 

Wliite Kid Boots, to clean 454 

White Kid Gloves, see Km 

Gloves. 
White Lace Teils, to clean... 471 

White Lead 2693 

White Lead, Antidotes for 5908 

White Lead Plaster 5044 

White Lead, Tests for. . . 2694, 2(i95 

White Lights 2113 

White Lights for Indoors 2120 

White Lip Salve 1172 

White Liquors, to blanch 705 

White Lve for Washing 483 

White Metal 3416,3426 

White, Pearl, for the Skin 1109 

White Pigments 2693, (fcc 

White Precipitate 4140 

White Satin Shoes, to clean . . 455 
White Silk Blond and Lace, to 

Avash 472 

White Silk Stockings, to wash. 467 

White Soap 591 

White Spoon Metal 3416 

White Swelling 5775 

White Swellina-, Treatment of 5776 

White Toilet S^oap, Soft 606 

White Varnish 2916 

White Vitriol 41 14 

White Vitriol, Antidote for. . . 5907 

"White Windsor Soap 558 

White Wine, to fine 744 

White, Zinc 2696 

Whiten, to, Tallow 639 

Whiten, to, Woolens 508 

White's Gout Pills 5182 

Whitewash 2793, &c. 

Whitewash, Fine, for Walls . . .2800 

Whitewash, Fireproof 2801 

Whitewash for Fences 2803 

Whitewash for Out-door Use. 2796, 
2802. 

Whitewash, to color 2798, 2807 

Whitewash, to keep 2805 

Whitewash, to mix 2804 

Whitewash, to prevent, from Rub- 
bing off 2807 

Whitewash, to. Smoky Walls.. 2806 
Whitewash, Treasury Depart- 
ment 2797 

Whitewash, Zinc 2799 

Whitewashed Walls, to paint.. 2764 
Whitewashed Walls, to paper 2808 
Whitewashed Walls, to prepare, 

for Painting 2763 

Whitlow, see Felox. 

Whit with' s Eed Drops 5376 

Whooping Cough Liniment 5257 

Whooping Cough, Remedies for 

5632, &c. 
Whooping Cough, Treatment of, 
5632. 

Whortleberry Wine 728 

Wicks, Candle, to improve 6231 

Wicks, Candle, to make 632 

Wiegand's Syrup of Phosphate 

of Lime 4637 

Wiegand's Tetter Ointment.. .5241 

Wiegands Tetter Salve 5242 

Wild-Cherry Bitters 821 

Wild-Cherry, Fen-ated Elixir of 471 6 
Wild-Cherry, Fcrrated Wine of 4715 
Wild-Cherry, Fluid Extract of 4589 
Wild-Cherry Syrup for Soda Wa- 
ter ]396 

Wild-Cherry, Wine of 4714 

Wilk's Refined Linseed Oil ...2871 

Wilson's Hair Wash 1182 

Wind, Force of the 6123 

Window Glass 2342 



Window Glass, to restore the 

I Color of 6211 

Window Sashes, Loose, to fas- 

1 ten 6395 

Windows, Prismatic Crystals 

for 2365 

I Windows, to clean 6330, 6331 

I Wmdows, to keep, Open 6208 

! Windsor Soap 558, 559 

Wine, Acidity in, to remedy . . 753 

Wine, Acidity in, to test 760 

Wine, Antiferments for 764 

Wine, Aromatic 5348 

Wine, Artificially Colored, to 

detect 4404, 4406 

Wine, Champagne 713, &c. 

Wine Color Dye for Silks 262 

Wine Color Dye for Woolens . 210 

Wine, Decayed, to restore 752 

Wine. Decomposition in, to 

test 755 

Wine, Domestic. 71 3, &c., 727, &c. 

Wine. Eschalot 1783 

Wine, Febrifuge 5141 

Wine, Filter for 714 

Wine, Fretting in 757 

Wine from Fresh Fruits.. 728, &c. 

Wine from Dried Fruits 729 

Wine, Frontignac, Imitation. .6418 
6419. 

Wine, Home-made 727, <S:c. 

Wine, Isinglixss forFinine: .... 716 



Wood, to prepare, for Gilding. 3555> 
Wood, to prepare, for Japan- 
ning 3020 

Wood, to prepare,for Polishing 2983 
Wood, to preserve.. 1677, 1680, 1684 
Wood, to preserve, from Dry- 
rot 1679 

Wood, to preserve, under Wa- 
ter ..1684 

Wood, to prevent, from Split- 
ting 1678 

Wood, to silver 3612, 3627, 3628 

Wood, to stain 2842, &c. 

Wood, to transfer Engravings 

onto 6336 

Wooden Faucets, to keep, from 

Cracking 6305 

Wooden Vessels, to remove the 

Taste from 6201 

Wood's Spruce Beer 886 

Wood's Tincture of Kino 4556 

Woods used for Dveing 94 

Wool, IS^ew Wash for 1719 

Wool, to bleach 1716, 1717 

Wool, to dissolve, out of Mixed 

Fabrics 6413 

Wool, to distinguish, in Mixed 

Fabrics 298, &c. 

Woolen Goods, to restore the 

Gloss Finish on 469 

Woolen Hose, to whiten 508 

Woolen Eao-s, to bleach 1726 



Wine, Mulled, with Eggs 927 j Woolens, Flannels and ShaAvls, 

Wine, Mustiness in, to remove 758 ! to wash 493. &c. 

Wine, Xutritive 4723 i Woolens, Aniline Dyes for 2573, &c. 



Wine of Beef and Iron 4722 

Wine of Calisaya 4711 

Wine of Cinchonia 4710 

Wine of Colchicum 5389 

Wine of Iron 4705 

Wine of Iron, Aromatic 4708 

Wine of Iron. Bitter 4704, 4707 

Wine of Pepsine 4721, 4726 I 

Wine of Quinine 5199 

Wine of Rennet 4713 

Wine of Wild-cherry Bark... 4714 
Wine of Wild-chenw, Ferrated4715 

Wine, Pricked, to restore 752 

Wine Punch 711 

Wine, Sour, to remedy 751, 754 

Wine Stains, to remove.. -360, 369 

Wine, Sweating in 757 

Wine, to decolor 748 

Wine, to detect Lead in 4402, 4403 
Wine, to detect Logwood in. . 4405 

Wine, to fine 742, &c. 

Wine, to improve, bv Electric- 
ity * 726, 6295 

Wine, to preserve 759, 761 

Wine, to remedy Ropiness in. . 749 

Wine, to ripen 750 

Wine, Use of Glycerine in 725 

Wintergreen Syrup 1407 

Wire, Brass for 3348, 3374 

Wire Rope, Weight of 6137 

Wonderful Ointment 4895 

Wood, Cement for Coating 2195 

Wood, Cement to fill Cracks in 2244 
Wood, Dyes for, to brighten 

and set 2828 

Wood, Enameled,to polish 3015, &c. 
Wood, Gold-size for Gilding on 3562 
Wood, Implements for Gilding 

on 3557 

Wood, to bronze 3792, &c., 3825 

Wood, to cement Emery to... 6269 

Wood, to cement Metal to 2231 

Wood, to coat with a Substance 

as hard as Stone 1683 

Wood, to detect, in Paper. . . .1947 

Wood, to dye 2824, &c. 

Wood, to electrotype on 3695 

Wood, t-o enamel 3010, &c. 

Wood, to extract Essential Oil 

from 46 

Wood, to gild on 3557, &c. 

Wood, to harden 1682 

Wood, to kvanize 1681 

Wood, to make. Incombustible 2821 

Wood, to petrify 1686 

Wood, to photograph on 3165 

Wood, to prepare, for Enamel- 
ing 3011, 3015 



Woolens, Chrome Dyes for ... 221 

Woolens, Colored, to clean 451 

Woolens, Family Receipts for 

Dyeing 303, &c. 

Woolens, General Receipts for 

Dyeing 191, &c. 

Woolens, to prepare, for Dye- 
ing 191 

Woolens, to preserve, from 

Moth 654 

Woolens, to remove Spots from 345 

Woolens, to wash 493 

Worcestershire Sauce 1759 

Woi-m Confection 5309 

Worm, Tape, see Tape Worm. 
Worms in Gravel Walks, to de- 
stroy 1875 

Worms in Lawns, to destroy .1876 
Worms, Remedies for, see Vek- 

MIFCGES. 

Worms, Symptoms of the 5642 

Worms, to expel, from Flower- 
pots 1853 

Wormseed, Essential OUof. . . 1465 
Wormwood Water, to distill.. 1071 
1073. 

Worsted Reps, to clean 451 

Worsteds, to dye 303, &c. 

Wounds, Dressing for 5392 

Wounds, Festering, Cure for.. 5748 

Wounds, Lotion for 4853 

Wounds on Rosebushes, to heal 1877 

Wounds on Trees, to heal 1879 

Wrinkles in the Face.Wash for 1163 
Wrist, Sprained, Treatment ot 5493 
Writing Eflaced by Chlorine, to 

restore 2504 

Writing Fluids 2477. &c- 

Writing, New, to mate, appear 

old . 2505 

Writing on Glass 2371, 2375 

Writing, Very Old, to copy 1950 

Wrought Iron, see Ikon. 
Wyndham's Pills 5323 

Xanthine 4013 

Xanthoxylum, Fluid Extractof 4579 
Xylol or Xylene 6409 

Tarn, Cotton, to bleach 123 

Yam. Cotton, to prepare, for 

Dyeing 122 

Tarn, Fustic-green Dye for 161 

Tarn, Indifro-blue Dye for 130 

Tarrow, Fluid Extract of 4588 

Teast 1807, &c. 

Teast, Bitterness in, to remedy. 1816 
Teast, Brewers' 1808 



YEA — YEL 

Yoast for Hot Climates 1 809 

Yeast, Patent 1814 

Yeast Poultice 5027 

Yea.it, to prepare, for Rum and 

Whiskey 932 

Yenst, to prepare,with Ferment 1813 
Yeast, to prepare, without Fer- 
ment 1810, &c. 

Yeast, to preserve 1815 

Yellow Aniline Dye 2579 

Yellow Cement 2189 

Yellow Color, to remove, from 

the Teeth 1296 

Yellow Dipping Metal 3433 

Yellow Dock, Syrup of, Com- 
pound 4683 

Yellow Dye for Cottons 186 

Yellow Dye for Feathers 329 

Yellow Dye for Ivory 1990 

Yellow Dye for Leather 6350 

Yellow Dve for Silks.. 265, &c., 323 

Yellow Dye for Veneers 2839 

YeUow Dye f )r Wood 2826 

Yellow Dye for Woolens ... 202, 225 

Yellow Enamels 2394 

Yellow Fire 2099, 2110 

Yellow Foil for Imitation Gems 2452 

Yellow Glazing 2406 

Yellow Hair-dyss 1208, &o. 



YEL — ZIN 

Yellow Hair-oil 1234 

Yellow Jasmine, Tincture of. .4493 

YeUow Lights 2114 

Yellow Lights for Indoors 2121 

Yellow Lotion, Mercurial 4848 

Yellow Marble for Book-covers 3110 

Yellow Metal, to platinize 3658 

YeUow,Xaples 2709 

YeUow Pigments. . .2700, 2705, 2708 

Yellow Sealing Wax 2320 

Yellow Stain for Glass 2361 

Yellow Stain for Marble 2044 

YeUow Stain for Wood 2863 

YeUov, Soap, to improve 6308 

Yellow Soap, to make 522 

YeUow Spirits 109, 141 

Yellow, to color Fat 1259 

YeUow Wash, Mercurial 4848 

Youatt's Cure for Hydrophobia 5922 

Zeiodite 2213 

Zeiter's Antiscorbutic Denti- 
frice 1306 

Zinc 3310 

Zinc, AUoys of 3421, 3424 

Zinc Amalgam for Electrical 

Machines 3539 

Zinc, Ammonio-Chloride of ...4110 
Zinc, Carbonate of 4112 



ZIN— ZIN 607 

Zinc, Chloride of 4109, 4111 

Zinc, Cyanide of 3753, 4 1 15 

Zinc, Flowers of 4116 

Zinc, Flux for Soldering .3481, 3531 

Zinc Green 2691 

Zinc Ointment 4981 

Zinc, Oxide of 4117 

Zinc Paint, BoUed Oil for 2734 

Zinc, Sulphate of 4114 

Zinc, Tests for, in Solutions.. .41 18 
Zinc, to amalgamate, for the 

Battery 3555, 3662 

Zinc, to bronze 3797, 3811 

Zinc, to coat Copper or Brass 

with 3651, 3653 

Zinc, to coat Iron with 3649 

Zinc, to coat, with Copper or 

Brass 3655 

Zinc, to coat, with Iron 3654 

Zinc, to color 3313 

Zinc, to granulate 3312 

Zinc, to paint 2759 

Zinc, toparify 3311 

Zinc, to scour 3271 

Zinc, to separate, from Copper. 3243 

Zinc Wash 5834 

Zinc White 2696 

Zinc White, Dryer for 2740 

Zinc Whitfewaah Q799 









mmf^m 



Wj^'j 






W'i'^vv^'i 










■;*< 



:'fTi; 







kH^J 



U 5^ 






i^it^ 







.y 






^/;u 



v:;>^v 






/'1J' 



^^i^ftA'"*> VIP*?- 



^^i>^. 



m 



